diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:48:56 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:48:56 -0700 |
| commit | 30e4a51da4742dcce0eef6ccde9f4b84183011f1 (patch) | |
| tree | 928a79adbc7c8ffb8b707a77f35c79cfa88bcc38 | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471-8.txt | 20894 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 463026 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 487079 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471-h/16471-h.htm | 24564 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471.txt | 20894 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 16471.zip | bin | 0 -> 462962 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
9 files changed, 66368 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16471-8.txt b/16471-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae675d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/16471-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,20894 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages +and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 16 + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: August 7, 2005 [EBook #16471] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + +A + +GENERAL + +HISTORY AND COLLECTION + +OF + +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, + +ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER: + +FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION, +DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO +THE PRESENT TIME. + + * * * * * + +BY + +ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN. + + * * * * * + +ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS. + +VOL. XVI. + +WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH: + +AND T. CADELL, LONDON. + +MDCCCXXIV. + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. XVI. + + +CHAP. III. Transactions at Otaheite, and the Society Islands; and +prosecution of the Voyage to the Coast of North America, 1 + + SECT. + + I. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Island Toobouai + discovered. Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance. Intercourse + with its Inhabitants. Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes + described. Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite. Omai's + Reception and imprudent Conduct. Account of Spanish Ships + twice visiting the Island. Interview with the Chief of this + District. The Olla, or God, of Bolabola. A mad Prophet. + Arrival in Matavai Bay, 1 + + II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Island, Imprudent Conduct + of Omai. Employments on Shore. European Animals landed. + Particulars about a Native who had visited Lima. About + Oedidee. A Revolt in Eimeo. War with that Island determined + upon, in a Council of Chiefs. A human Sacrifice on that + Account. A particular Relation of the Ceremonies at the + great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered. Other barbarous + Customs of this People, 16 + + III. Conference with Towha. Heevas described. Omai and Oedidee + give Dinners. Fireworks exhibited. A remarkable Present of + Cloth. Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief. Another + human Sacrifice. Riding on Horseback. Otoo's Attention to + supply Provisions, and prevent Thefts. Animals given to him. + Etary, and the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences. A mock + Fight of two War Canoes. Naval Strength of these Islands. + Manner of conducting a War, 35 + + IV. The Day of Sailing fixed. Peace made with Eimeo. Debates + about it, and Otoo's Conduct blamed. A Solemnity at the Morai + on the Occasion, described by Mr King. Observations upon it. + Instance of Otoo's Art. Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his + Behaviour. Otoo's Present, and Message to the King of Great + Britain. Reflections on our Manner of Traffic, and on the good + Treatment we met with at Otaheite. Account of the Expedition + of the Spaniards. Their Fictions to depreciate the English. + Wishes expressed that no Settlement may be made. Omai's + Jealousy of another Traveller, 48 + + V. Arrival at Eimeo. Two Harbours there, and an Account of + them. Visit from Maheine, Chief of the Island. His Person + described. A Goat stolen, and sent back with the Thief. + Another Goat stolen, and secreted. Measures taken on the + Occasion. Expedition cross the Island. Houses and Canoes + burnt. The Goat delivered up, and Peace restored. Some Account + of the Island, &c. 62 + + VI. Arrival at Huaheine. Council of the Chiefs. Omai's + Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs. His Establishment in this + Island agreed to. A House built, and Garden planted for him. + Singularity of his Situation. Measures taken to insure his + Safety. Damage done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships. A + Thief detected and punished. Fireworks exhibited. Animals left + with Omai. His Family. Weapons. Inscription on his House. His + Behaviour on the Ships leaving the Island. Summary View of his + Conduct and Character. Account of the two New Zealand Youths, + 71 + + VII. Arrival at Ulietea. Astronomical Observations. A + Marine deserts, and is delivered up. Intelligence from + Omai. Instructions to Captain Clerke. Another Desertion of + a Midshipman and a Seaman. Three of the chief Persons of the + Island confined on that Account. A Design to seize Captains + Cook and Clerke discovered. The two Deserters brought back, + and the Prisoners released. The Ships sail. Refreshments + received at Ulietea. Present and former State of that Island. + Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of + Huaheine, 87 + + VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. Interview with Opoony. Reasons for + purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor. Departure from + the Society Islands. Particulars about Bolabola. History of + the Conquest of Otaha and Ulietea. High Reputation of the + Bolabola Men. Animals left there and at Ulietea. Plentiful + Supply of Provisions, and Manner of salting Pork on Board. + Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and the Society + Islands. Astronomical and Nautical Observations made there, 99 + + IX. Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect. The prevailing + Winds. Beauty of the Country. Cultivation. Natural + Curiosities. The Persons of the Natives. Diseases. General + Character. Love of Pleasure. Language. Surgery and Physic. + Articles of Food. Effects of drinking Ava. Times and Manner of + Eating. Connexions with the Females. Circumcision. System of + Religion. Notions about the Soul and a future Life. Various + Superstitions. Traditions about the Creation. An historical + Legend. Honours paid to the King. Distinction of Ranks. + Punishment of Crimes. Peculiarities of the neighbouring + Islands. Names of their Gods. Names of Islands they visit. + Extent of their Navigation, 10 + + X. Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands. + Christmas Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there. + Boats sent ashore. Great Success in catching Turtle. An + Eclipse of the Sun observed. Distress of two Seamen who had + lost their Way. Inscription left in a Bottle. Account of the + Island. Its Soil. Trees and Plants. Birds. Its Size. Form. + Situation. Anchoring Ground, 139 + + XI. Some Islands discovered. Account of the Natives of Atooi, + who came off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going + on Board. One of them killed. Precautions used to prevent + Intercourse with the Females. A Watering-place found. + Reception upon landing. Excursion into the Country. A Morai + visited and described. Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human + Sacrifices, there buried. Another Island, called Oneeheow, + visited. Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to + the Ships. Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals. + A Party sent ashore, who remain two Nights. Account of what + passed on landing. The Ships leave the Islands, and proceed to + the North, 148 + + XII. The Situation of the Islands now discovered. Their + Names. Called the Sandwich Islands. Atooi described. The Soil. + Climate. Vegetable Productions. Birds. Fish. Domestic + Animals. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Disposition. + Dress. Ornaments. Habitations. Food. Cookery. Amusements. + Manufactures. Working-tools. Knowledge of Iron accounted for. + Canoes. Agriculture. Account of one of their Chiefs. Weapons. + Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite. + Their Language the same. Extent of this Nation throughout + the Pacific Ocean. Reflections on the useful Situation of the + Sandwich Islands, 172 + + XIII. Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the + Longitude, Variation of the Compass and Tides. Prosecution of + the Voyage. Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as + the Latitude 44° North. Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern + Hemisphere. Small Sea Animals described. Arrival on the Coast + of America. Appearance of the Country. Unfavourable Winds and + boisterous Weather. Remarks on Martin de Aguilar's River, and + Juan de Fuca's pretended Strait. An Inlet discovered, where + the Ship's anchor. Behaviour of the Natives, 195 + +CHAP. IV. Transactions, amongst the Natives of North America; +Discoveries along that Coast and the Eastern Extremity of Asia, +Northward to Icy Cape; and return Southward to the Sandwich Islands, +207 + + SECT. + + I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour. + Intercourse with the Natives. Articles brought to barter. + Thefts committed. The Observatories erected, and Carpenters + set to work. Jealousy of the Inhabitants of the Sound to + prevent other Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships. Stormy + and rainy Weather. Progress round the Sound. Behaviour of the + Natives at their Villages. Their Manner of drying Fish, &c. + Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory Ceremonies. + A second Visit to one of the Villages. Leave to cut Grass, + purchased. The Ships sail. Presents given and received at + parting, 207 + + II. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into + it. Account of the adjacent Country. Weather. Climate. Trees. + Other Vegetable Productions. Quadrupeds, whose Skins were + brought for Sale. Sea Animals. Description of a Sea-Otter. + Birds. Water Fowl. Fish. Shell-fish, &c. Reptiles. Insects. + Stones, &c. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Colour. Common + Dress and Ornaments. Occasional Dresses, and monstrous + Decorations of wooden Masks. Their general Dispositions. + Songs. Musical Instruments. Their Eagerness to possess Iron + and other Metals, 221 + + III. Manner of Building the Houses in Nootka Sound. Inside + of them described. Furniture and Utensils. Wooden Images. + Employments of the Men. Of the Women. Food, Animal and + Vegetable. Manner of preparing it. Weapons. Manufactures and + Mechanic Arts. Carving and Painting. Canoes. Implements for + Fishing and Hunting. Iron Tools. Manner of procuring that + Metal. Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it. + Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in Nootka Sound, + 239 + + IV. A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound. Resolution + springs a Leak. Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed + unexamined. Progress along the Coast of America. Behring's + Bay. Kaye's Island. Account of it. The Ships come to an + Anchor. Visited by the Natives. Their Behaviour. Fondness for + Beads and Iron. Attempt to plunder the Discovery. Resolution's + Leak stopped; Progress up the Sound. Messrs Gore and Roberts + sent to examine its Extent. Reasons against a Passage to the + North through it. The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea + 260 + + V. The Inlet called Prince William's Sound. Its Extent. + Persons of the Inhabitants described. Their Dress. Incision of + the Under-lip. Various other Ornaments. Their Boats. Weapons. + Fishing and hunting Instruments. Utensils. Tools. Uses Iron + is applied to. Food. Language, and a Specimen of it. Animals. + Birds. Fish. Iron and Beads, whence received, 279 + + VI. Progress along the Coast. Cape Elizabeth. Cape St + Hermogenes. Accounts of Beering's Voyage very defective. Point + Banks. Cape Douglas. Cape Bede. Mount St Augustin. Hopes + of finding a Passage up an Inlet. The Ships proceed up it. + Indubitable Marks of its being a River. Named Cook's River. + The Ships return down it. Various Visits from the Natives. + Lieutenant King lands, and takes Possession of the Country. + His Report. The Resolution runs aground on a Shoal. + Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's River. The considerable + Tides in it accounted for, 291 + + VII. Discoveries after leaving Cook's River. Island of St + Hermogenes. Cape Whitsunday. Cape Greville. Cape Barnabas. + Two-headed Point. Trinity Island. Beering's Foggy Island. A + beautiful Bird described. Kodiak and the Schumagin Islands. A + Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native. Conjectures + about it. Rock Point. Halibut Island. A Volcano Mountain. + Providential Escape. Arrival of the Ships at Oonalaschka. + Intercourse with the Natives there. Another Russian Letter. + Samganoodha Harbour described, 306 + + VIII. Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka. The + Islands Oonella and Acootan. Ooneemak. Shallowness of the + Water along the Coast. Bristol Bay. Round Island. Calm Point. + Cape Newenham. Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report. + Bristol Bay, and its Extent. The Ships obliged to return on + account of Shoals. Natives come off to the Ships. Death of + Mr Anderson; his Character; and Island named after him. Point + Rodney. Sledge Island, and Remarks on landing there. King's + Island. Cape Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of America. + Course Westward. Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia, 323 + + IX. Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing the + Ships. Interview with some of them. Their Weapons. Persons. + Ornaments Clothing. Winter and Summer Habitations. The Ships + cross the Strait, to the Coast of America. Progress Northward. + Cape Mulgrave. Appearance of Fields of Ice. Situation of Icy + Cape, the Sea blocked up with Ice. Sea-horses killed, and used + as Provisions. These Animals described. Dimensions of one of + them. Cape Lisburne. Fruitless Attempt to get through the Ice + at a Distance from the Coast. Observations on the Formation + of this Ice. Arrival on the Coast of Asia. Cape North. The + Prosecution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year, 338 + + X. Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia. Views of + the Country. Burney's Island. Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern + Limit of Beering's Voyage. Pass the East Cape of Asia. + Description and Situation of it. Observations on Muller. + The Tschutski. Bay of Saint Laurence. Two other Bays, and + Habitations of the Natives. Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi. + Beering's Position of this Coast accurate. Island of Saint + Laurence. Pass to the American Coast. Cape Derby. Bald Head. + Cape Denbigh, on a Peninsula. Besborough Island. Wood and + Water procured. Visits from the Natives. Their Persons and + Habitations. Produce of the Country. Marks that the Peninsula + had formerly been surrounded by the Sea. Lieutenant King's + Report. Norton Sound. Lunar Observations there. Stæhlin's Map + proved to be erroneous. Plan of future Operations, 353 + + XI. Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound. Stuart's Island. + Cape Stephens. Point Shallow-Water. Shoals on the American + Coast. Clerke's Island. Gore's Island. Pinnacle Island. + Arrival at Oonalashka. Intercourse with the Natives + and Russian Traders. Charts of the Russian Discoveries, + communicated by Mr Ismyloff. Their Errors pointed out. + Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians. Account of + their Settlement at Oonalashka. Of the Natives of the Island. + Their Persons. Dress. Ornaments. Food. Houses and domestic + Utensils. Manufactures. Manner of producing Fire. Canoes. + Fishing and Hunting Implements. Fishes, and Sea Animals. Sea + and Water Fowls, and Land Birds. Land Animals and Vegetables. + Manner of burying the Dead. Resemblance of the Natives on + this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Tides. + Observations for determining the Longitude of Oonalashka. 369 + + XII. Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views. The Island + Amoghta. Situation of a remarkable Rock. Strait between + Oonalashka and Oonella repassed. Progress to the South. + Melancholy Accident on board the Discovery. Mowee, one of the + Sandwich Islands, discovered. Intercourse with the Natives. + Visit from Terreeoboo. Another Island, called Owhyhee, + discovered. The Ships ply to Windward to get round it. + An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Crew refuse to drink + Sugar-cane Beer. Cordage deficient in Strength. Commendation + of the Natives of Owhyhee. The Resolution gets to Windward of + the Island. Her Progress down the South-East Coast. Views of + the Country, and Visits from the Natives. The Discovery joins. + Slow Progress Westward. Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr Bligh. + Vast Concourse of the Natives. The Ships anchor in the Bay, + 402 + +CHAP. V. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on Returning to +the Sandwich Islands, 421 + + SECT. + + I. Description of Karakakooa Bay. Vast Concourse of the + Natives. Power of the Chiefs over the Inferior People. + Visit from Koah, a Priest and Warrior. The Morai at Kakooa + described. Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook. + Observatories erected. Powerful Operation of the Taboo. Method + of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates. Society of Priests + discovered. Their Hospitality and Munificence. Reception of + Captain Cook. Artifice of Koah. Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of + the Island. Returned by Captain Cook, 421 + + II. Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives. Their + Hospitality. Propensity to Theft. Description of a Boxing + Match. Death of one of our Seamen. Behaviour of the Priests at + his Funeral. The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchased. + The Natives inquisitive about our Departure. Their Opinion + about the Design of our Voyage. Magnificent Presents of + Terreeoboo to Captain Cook. The Ships leave the Island. The + Resolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return, 434 + + III. Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return + to Karakakooa Bay. Theft on Board the Discovery, and its + Consequences. The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to + quit her. Captain Cook's Observations on the Occasion. Attempt + at the Observatory. The Cutter of the Discovery stolen. + Measures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery. Goes on Shore + to invite the King on Board. The King being stopped by his + Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises. News arrives of one of + the Chiefs being killed by one of our People. Ferment on this + Occasion. One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is + shot by him. General Attack by the Natives. Death of Captain + Cook. Account of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his + Character, 446 + + IV. Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of + Captain Cook. Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines. + Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai. Bravery of + one of the Natives. Consultation respecting future Measures. + Demand of the Body of Captain Cook. Evasive and insidious + Conduct of Koah and the Chiefs. Insolent Behaviour of the + Natives. Promotion of Officers. Arrival of two Priests with + Part of the Body. Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys. Burning + of the Village of Kakooa. Unfortunate Destruction of the + Dwellings of the Priests. Recovery of the Bones of Captain + Cook. Departure from Karakakooa Bay, 460 + + V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the + South-East Side of Mowee. Driven to Leeward by the Easterly + Winds and Current. Pass the Island of Tahoorowha. Description + of the South-West Side of Mowee. Run along the Coasts of Ranai + and Morotoi to Woahoo. Description of the North-East Coast + of Woahoo. Unsuccessful Attempt to Water. Passage to Atooi. + Anchor in Wymoa Bay. Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party + on Shore. Civil Dissensions in the Islands. Visit from the + contending Chiefs. Anchor off Oneeheow. Final Departure from + the Sandwich Islands, 492 + + + + + +A + +GENERAL HISTORY, + +AND + +COLLECTION + +OF + +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. + + * * * * * + +PART III. BOOK III. (CONTINUED.) + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS; AND PROSECUTION OF +THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. + + +SECTION I. + +_An Eclipse of the Moon observed.--The Island Toobouai +discovered.--Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance.--Intercourse +with its Inhabitants.--Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes +described.--Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite.--Omai's Reception +and imprudent Conduct.--Account of Spanish Ships twice visiting the +Island.--Interview with the Chief of this District.--The Olla, or God, +of Bolabola.--A mad Prophet.--Arrival in Matavai Bay._ + +Having, as before related,[1] taken our final leave of the Friendly +Islands, I now resume my narrative of the voyage. In the evening of +the 17th of July, at eight o'clock, the body of Eaoo bore N.E. by +N., distant three or four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew +a fresh gale. With it I stood to the S., till half an hour past +six o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall, from the same +direction, took our ship aback; and, before the sails could be trimmed +on the other tack, the main-sail and the top-gallant sails were much +torn. + +[Footnote 1: See the conclusion of Sect. IX. Chap. II.] + +The wind kept between the S.W. and S.E., on the 19th and 20th, +afterward, it veered to the E., N.E., and N. The night between the +20th and 21st, an eclipse of the moon was observed as follows, being +then in the latitude of 22° 57-1/2' S.: + + Apparent time, A.M. + H.M.S. + + Beginning, by Mr King, at 0 32 50 | + Mr Bligh, at 0 33 25 > Mean long. 186° 57-1/2'. + Myself, at 0 33 35 | + + End, by Mr King at 1 44 56 | Mean long. 186° 28-1/2'. + Mr Bligh at 1 44 6 > Time keep. 186° 58-1/2'. + Myself, at 1 44 56 | + +The latitude and longitude are those of the ship, at 8^h 56^m a.m., +being the time when the sun's altitude was taken for finding the +apparent time. At the beginning of the eclipse, the moon was in +the zenith, so that it was found most convenient to make use of the +sextants, and to make the observations by the reflected image, which +was brought down to a convenient altitude. The same was done at the +end, except by Mr King, who observed with a night telescope. Although +the greatest difference between our several observations is no +more than fifty seconds, it, nevertheless, appeared to me that +two observers might differ more than double that time, in both the +beginning and end. And, though the times are noted to seconds, no such +accuracy was pretended to. The odd seconds set down above, arose by +reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent time. + +I continued to stretch to the E.S.E., with the wind at N.E. and N., +without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till seven o'clock in +the evening of the 29th, when we had a sudden and very heavy squall +of wind from the N. At this time we were under single reefed topsails, +courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces, +and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After +this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the +Discovery, by which we concluded, that something had given way; and, +the next morning, we saw that her main-top-mast had been lost. Both +wind and weather continued very unsettled till noon, this day, when +the latter cleared up, and the former settled in the N.W. quarter. At +this time, we were in the latitude of 28° 6' S., and our longitude was +198° 23' E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we +left the land. + +On the 31st, at noon, Captain Clerke made a signal to speak with me. +By the return of the boat which I sent on board his ship, he informed +me, that the head of the main-mast had been just discovered to be +sprung, in such a manner as to render the rigging of another top-mast +very dangerous; and that, therefore, he must rig something lighter +in its place. He also informed me, that he had lost his +main-top-gallant-yard, and that he neither had another, nor a spar to +make one, on board. The Resolution's sprit-sail top-sail yard which I +sent him, supplied this want. The next day, he got up a jury top-mast, +on which he set a mizen-top-sail, and this enabled him to keep way +with the Resolution. + +The wind was fixed in the western board, that is, from the N., round +by the W. to S., and I steered E.N.E. and N.E., without meeting with +anything remarkable, till eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th +of August, when land was seen, bearing N.N.E., nine or ten leagues +distant. At first, it appeared in detached hills, like so many +separate islands; but, as we drew nearer, we found that they were all +connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly +for it, with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and at half-past six o'clock +in the afternoon, it extended from N. by E., to N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant +three or four leagues. + +The night was spent standing off and on; and at day-break the next +morning, I steered for the N.W., or lee-side of the island; and as we +stood round its S. or S.W. part, we saw it every where guarded by a +reef of coral rock, extending, in some places, a full mile from the +land, and a high surf breaking upon it. Some thought that they +saw land to the southward of this island; but, as that was to the +windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we saw people on +different parts of the coast, walking, or running along the shore, and +in a little time after we had reached the lee-side of the island, +we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and +paddled toward us. + +I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up +with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance of about half a +mile from the reef, we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, +over a bottom of fine sand. Nearer in, the bottom was strewed with +coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a +pistol-shot from the ship, there stopped. Omai was employed, as +he usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to +prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no entreaties could +induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly +pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go +thither; and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach held +up something white, which we considered also as an invitation to land. +We could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without +the reef, and a break or opening in it, from whence the canoes had +come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water +for the ships, there was more than sufficient for the boats. But I did +not think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the +sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. +We stood in no need of refreshments, if I had been sure of meeting +with them there; and having already been so unexpectedly delayed in +my progress to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding every +possibility of farther retardment. For this reason, after making +several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come +alongside, I made sail to the N., and left them, but not without +getting from them, during their vicinity to our ship, the name of +their island, which they called Toobouai. + +It is situated in the latitude of 23° 25' S., and in 210 37' E. +longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the +reef, is not above five or six miles. On the N.W. side, the reef +appears in detached pieces, between which the sea seems to break +upon the shore. Small as the island is, there are hills in it of a +considerable elevation. At the foot of the hills, is a narrow border +of flat land, running quite round it, edged with a white sand beach. +The hills are covered with grass, or some other herbage, except a few +steep rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interspersed to +their summits. But the plantations are more numerous in some of the +vallies, and the flat border is quite covered with high, strong trees, +whose different kinds we could not discern, except some cocoa-palms, +and a few of the _etoa_. According to the information of the men in +the canoes, their island is stocked with hogs and fowls, and produces +the several fruits and roots that are found at the other islands in +this part of the Pacific Ocean. + +We had an opportunity, from the conversation we had with those who +came off to us, of satisfying ourselves, that the inhabitants of +Toobouai speak the Otaheite language, a circumstance that indubitably +proves them to be of the same nation. Those of them whom we saw in the +canoes were a stout copper-coloured people, with straight black hair, +which some of them wore tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and +others flowing about the shoulders. Their faces were somewhat round +and full, but the features, upon the whole, rather flat, and their +countenances seemed to express some degree of natural ferocity. They +had no covering but a piece of narrow stuff wrapped about the waist, +and made to pass between the thighs, to cover the adjoining parts; +but some of those whom we saw upon the beach, where about a hundred +persons had assembled, were entirely clothed with a kind of white +garment. We could observe, that some of our visitors in the canoes +wore pearl shells hang about the neck as an ornament. One of them kept +blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed near two feet long +was fixed; at first, with a continued tone of the same kind, but he +afterward converted it into a kind of musical instrument, perpetually +repeating two or three notes, with the same strength. What the blowing +the conch portended, I cannot say, but I never found it the messenger +of peace. + +Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and two feet above +the surface of the water, as they floated. The fore part projected a +little, and had a notch cut across, as if intended to represent the +mouth of some animal. The after part rose, with a gentle curve, to the +height of two or three feet, turning gradually smaller, and, as well +as the upper part of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the +sides, which were perpendicular, were curiously incrustated with flat +white shells, disposed nearly in concentric semicircles, with the +curve upward. One of the canoes carried seven, and the other eight +men, and they were managed with small paddles, whose blades were +nearly round. Each of them had a pretty long outrigger; and they +sometimes paddled, with the two opposite sides together so close, that +they seemed to be one boat with two outriggers, the rowers turning +their faces occasionally to the stern, and pulling that way, without +paddling the canoes round. When they saw us determined to leave them, +they stood up in their canoes, and repeated something very loudly in +concert, but we could not tell whether this was meant as a mark of +their friendship or enmity. It is certain, however, that they had no +weapons with them, nor could we perceive with our glasses that those +on shore had any.[2] + +[Footnote 2: This is the island on which Fletcher Christian, chief +mutineer of the Bounty, attempted to form a settlement in 1789, as we +shall have occasion to notice when treating of another voyage.--E.] + +After leaving this island, from the discovery of which future +navigators may possibly derive some advantage, I steered to the N. +with a fresh gale at E. by S., and, at day-break in the morning of +the 12th, we saw the island of Maitea. Soon after, Otaheite made its +appearance; and at noon, it extended from S.W. by W. to W.N.W.; the +point of Oheitepeha bay bearing W., about four leagues distant. I +steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what +refreshments I could from the S.E. part of the island, before I went +down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which station I expected +my principal supply. We had a fresh gale easterly, till two o'clock +in the afternoon, when, being about a league from the bay, the wind +suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light airs from +every direction, and calms by turns. This lasted about two hours. Then +we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the E. These carried us before +the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and attempted in vain +to work in to gain the anchoring-place. So that at last about nine +o'clock, we were obliged to stand out, and to spend the night at sea. + +When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the +ship, each conducted by two or three men; but, as they were common +fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They +did not even seem to perceive that he was one of their countrymen, +although they conversed with him for some time. At length, a chief +whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who +chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four +more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain +Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or +striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a +perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his +brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red +feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known amongst +the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely +turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged +that they might be _tayos_ (friends), and exchange names. Omai +accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red +feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But +it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but +his property, they were in love with. Had he not shewn to them +his treasure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greatest +estimation at the island, I question much whether they would have +bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first reception +amongst his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be otherwise; +but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with +which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would +be the means of raising him into consequence, and of making him +respected, and even courted by the first persons throughout the extent +of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had he +conducted himself with any degree of prudence; but, instead of it, I +am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice +of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by +every designing knave. From the natives who came off to us, in +the course of this day, we learnt that two ships had twice been in +Oheitepeha Bay, since my last visit to this island in 1774, and that +they had left animals there such as we had on board. But, on farther +enquiry, we found they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and the +male of some other animal, which, from the imperfect description now +given us, we could not find out. They told us that these ships had +come from a place called _Reema_, by which we guessed that Lima, +the capital of Peru, was meant, and that these late visitors were +Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they came, they built +a house, and left four men behind them, viz. two priests, a boy or +servant, and a fourth person called Mateema, who was much spoken of +at this time, carrying away with them, when they sailed, four of +the natives; that, in about ten months, the same two ships returned, +bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima, +and that, after a short stay, they took away their own people; but +that the house which they had built was left standing. + +The important news of red feathers being on board our ships, having +been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to +break, next morning, than we were surrounded by a multitude of canoes, +crowded with people, bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first, +a quantity of feathers, not greater than what might be got from a +tom-tit, would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But, as +almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of this precious +article of trade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent. +before night. However, even then, the balance was much in our favour, +and red feathers continued to preserve their superiority over every +other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unless +they received an axe in exchange; but nails and beads, and other +trinkets, which, during our former voyages, had so great a run at this +island, were now so much despised, that few would deign so much as to +look at them. + +There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine o'clock +before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where we moored with the +two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board +to see him. I was happy to observe, that, much to the honour of them +both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest +affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. + +This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored, +Omai and I went ashore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man +whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, +for he said that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under +one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger +canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, +so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. +Some called him _Olla_, or _Orra_, which is the name of the god of +Bolabola, but his own proper name was Etary. From Omai's account of +this person, I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to +him. But, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before him, and +upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which +he might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to +him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick; but, +after a little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola +man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his +mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully +with tears of joy. + +I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who +had gathered round him, and went to take a view of the house said +to be built by the strangers who had lately been here. I found it +standing at a small distance from the beach. The wooden materials +of which it was composed seemed to have been brought hither, ready +prepared, to be set up occasionally; for all the planks were numbered. +It was divided into two small rooms; and in the inner one were a +bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which +the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself, +which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built +over it. There were scuttles all around, which served as air holes; +and, perhaps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever +this should have been found necessary. At a little distance from the +front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut +the following inscription: + + _Christus vincit._ + +And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture that the +two ships were Spanish), + + _Carolus_ III. _imperat._ 1774. + +On the other side of the post I preserved the memory of the prior +visits of the English, by inscribing, + + _Georgius Tertius Rex, + Annis_ 1767, + 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777. + +The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave +of the commodore of the two ships, who had died here while they lay in +the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede. +Whatever the intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island might +be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves +with the inhabitants, who, upon every occasion, mentioned them with +the strongest expressions of esteem, and veneration. + +I met with no chief of any considerable note on this occasion, +excepting the extraordinary personage above described. Waheiadooa, the +sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now +absent; and I afterward found that he was not the same person, though +of the same name with the chief whom I had seen here during my last +voyage; but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had +succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months +before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberea was +dead; but that Otoo and all our other friends were living. + +When I returned from viewing the house and cross erected by the +Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was +with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on +board, where I had an important affair to settle. + +As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, could furnish +us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an +excellent _succedaneum_ for any artificial beverage, I was desirous of +prevailing upon my people to consent to be abridged, during our stay +here, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as +this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning some reason, +might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought it most prudent to +assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them the intent of +the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. To induce them to +undertake which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice of +the rewards offered by parliament to such of his majesty's subjects as +shall first discover a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific +Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and +also to such as shall first penetrate beyond the 39th degree of +northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find +them willing to co-operate with me in attempting, as far as might be +possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that, +to give us the best chance of succeeding, it would be necessary +to observe the utmost economy in the expenditure of our stores and +provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability +of getting a supply any where, after leaving these islands. I +strengthened my argument by reminding them that our voyage must last +at least a year longer than had been originally supposed, by our +having already lost the opportunity of getting to the north this +summer. I begged them to consider the various obstructions and +difficulties we might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships +they would labour under, if it should be found necessary to put them +to short allowance of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. +For these very substantial reasons, I submitted to them whether it +would not be better to be prudent in time, and rather than to run +the risk of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would be +most wanted, to consent to be without their grog now, when we had so +excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts to substitute in its place; +but that, after all, I left the determination entirely to their own +choice. + +I had the satisfaction to find that this proposal did not remain +a single moment under consideration; being unanimously approved of +immediately, without any objection. I ordered Captain Clerk to +make the same proposal to his people, which they also agreed to. +Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when +the companies of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might +drink the healths of their female friends in England, lest these, +amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten.[3] + +[Footnote 3: If it is to be judged of by its effects, certainly +the most suitable test of excellence, we must allow that in this +particular instance, Captain Cook displayed true eloquence. The merit, +indeed, is not inconsiderable, of inducing so great a sacrifice as his +crew now made; and, on the other hand, due commendation ought to be +allowed to their docility. This incident altogether is exceedingly +striking, and might, one should think, be very advantageously studied +by all who are in authority over vulgar minds.--E.] + +The next day, we began some necessary operations; to inspect the +provisions that were in the main and fore-hold; to get the casks of +beef and pork, and the coals out of the ground tier, and to put some +ballast in their place. The caulkers were set to work to caulk the +ship, which she stood in great need of, having at times made much +water on our passage from the Friendly Islands. I also put on shore +the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after +them while grazing; for I did not intend to leave any of them at this +part of the island. + +During the two following days, it hardly ever ceased raining. The +natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter, the news of our +arrival having rapidly spread. Waheiadooa, though at a distance, had +been informed of it; and, in the afternoon of the 16th, a chief, named +Etorea, under whose tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as a present +from him, and acquainted me that he himself would be with us the day +after. And so it proved; for I received a message from him the next +morning, notifying his arrival, and desiring I would go ashore to meet +him. Accordingly, Omai and I prepared to pay him a formal visit. On +this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, +not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of +Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a +strange medley of all that he was possessed of. + +Thus equipped, on our landing, we first visited Etary, who, carried +on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house, where he was set +down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. I caused a piece +of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on which I laid the +presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended +by his mother, and several principal men, who all seated themselves at +the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who sat by me, made +a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which +was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the +opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai, and both +of them were answered from the same quarter. These orations were +entirely about my arrival, and connexions with them. The person who +spoke last told me, among other things, that the men of _Reema_, that +is, the Spaniards, had desired them not to suffer me to come into +Oheitepeha Bay, if I should return any more to the island, for that it +belonged to them; but that they were so far from paying any regard to +this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of +the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks +very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of +accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length, the +young chief was directed by his attendants to come and embrace me, +and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged +names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on +board to dinner. + +Omai had prepared a _maro_, composed of red and yellow feathers, which +he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole island; and, considering +where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I +could to persuade him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on +board till an opportunity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with +his own hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and +fidelity of his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would serve him +but to carry it ashore on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, +to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the +royal _maro_. He thought by this management that he should oblige both +chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the +most consequence to him, without gaining any reward from the other. +What I had foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the _maro_ for +himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers, not the +twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent present. + +On the 19th, this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen +hogs, a quantity of fruit, and some cloth. In the evening, we played +off some fire-works, which both astonished and entertained the +numerous spectators. + +This day, some of our gentlemen in their walks found what they were +pleased to call a Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed, from their account, +this was not to be doubted, for they described the altar, and every +other constituent part of such a place of worship. However, as they +mentioned, at the same time, that two men who had the care of it, +would not suffer them to go in, I thought that they might be mistaken, +and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. The supposed +chapel proved to be a _toopapaoo_, in which the remains of the late +Waheiadooa lay, as it were, in state. It was in a pretty large +house, which was inclosed with a low pallisade. The _toopapaoo_ was +uncommonly neat, and resembled one of those little houses or awnings +belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps it had originally been +employed for that purpose. It was covered and hung round with cloth +and mats of different colours, so as to have a pretty effect. There +was one piece of scarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length, +conspicuous among the other ornaments, which, no doubt, had been a +present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few tassels of feathers, +which our gentlemen supposed to be silk, suggested to them the idea +of a chapel, for, whatever else was wanting to create a resemblance, +their imagination supplied; and, if they had not previously known that +there had been Spaniards lately here, they could not possibly have +made the mistake. Small offerings of fruit and roots seemed to be +daily made at this shrine, as some pieces were quite fresh. These +were deposited upon a _whatta_, or altar, which stood without the +pallisades; and within these we were not permitted to enter. Two men +constantly attended night and day, not only to watch over the place, +but also to dress and undress the _toopapaoo_. For when I first went +to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled up; but, +at my request, the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing +themselves in clean white robes. They told me that the chief had been +dead twenty months. + +Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other +necessary operations, on the 22d, I brought off the cattle and sheep +which had been put on shore here to graze, and made ready for sea. + +In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I +landed to take leave of the young chief. While we were with him, +one of those enthusiastic persons whom they call _Eatooas_, from a +persuasion that they are possessed with the spirit of the divinity, +came and stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not in +his right senses; and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain +leaves, wrapped round his waist. He spoke in a low squeaking voice, so +as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Omai said that he +comprehended him perfectly, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to +go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never heard that he +intended, nor had I ever made such a proposal to him. The _Eatooa_ +also foretold that the ships would not get to Matavai that day. But +in this he was mistaken; though appearances now rather favoured his +prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. While +he was prophesying, there fell a very heavy shower of rain, which made +every one run for shelter but himself, who seemed not to regard it. He +remained squeaking by us about half an hour, and then retired. No one +paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed at him. I +asked the chief what he was, whether an _Earee_, or a _Toutou_? and +the answer I received was, that he was _taata eno_; that is, a bad +man. And yet, notwithstanding this, and the little notice any of the +natives seemed to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got +the better of their reason, that they firmly believe such persons to +be possessed with the spirit of the _Eatooa_. Omai seemed to be very +well instructed about them. He said that, during the fits that +come upon them, they know nobody, not even their most intimate +acquaintances; and that, if any one of them happens to be a man of +property, he will very often give away every moveable he is possessed +of, if his friends do not put them out of his reach; and, when he +recovers, will enquire what had become of those very things which +he had but just before distributed, not seeming to have the least +remembrance of what he had done while the fit was upon him.[4] + +[Footnote 4: What is the origin of that singular notion which is found +amongst the lower orders in most countries, that divine inspiration +is often consequent on temporary or continued derangement? Surely it +cannot be derived from any correct opinions respecting the Author of +truth and knowledge. We must ascribe it, then, to ignorance, and +some feeling of dread as to his power; or rather perhaps, we ought +to consider it as the hasty offspring of surprise, on the occasional +display of reason, even in a common degree, where the faculties are +understood to be disordered. Still it is singular, that the observers +should have recourse for explanation to so injurious and so improbable +a supposition, as that of supernatural agency. What has often, been +said of sol-lunar and astral influence on the human mind, the opinion +of which is pretty widely spread over the world, may be interpreted +so as perfectly to agree with the theoretical solution of the question +now proposed, the heavenly bodies being amongst the first and the most +generally established objects of religious apprehension and worship. +It is curious enough, that what may be called the converse of the +proposition, viz. that derangement follows or is accompanied with +inspiration, whether religious or common, should almost as extensively +have formed a part of the popular creed. The reason of this notion +again, is not altogether the same as that of the former; it has its +origin probably in the observation, that enthusiasm with respect to +any one subject, which, in the present case, is to be regarded as the +appearance or expression of inspiration, usually unfits a person +for the requisite attention to any other. The language of mankind +accordingly quite falls in with this observation, and nothing is more +general than to speak of a man being mad, who exhibits a more than +ordinary ardour in the pursuit of some isolated object. Still, +however, there seems a tacit acknowledgement amongst mankind, that the +human mind can profitably attend to only one thing at a time, and +that all excellence in any pursuit is the result of restricted +unintermitting application: And hence it is, that enthusiasm, though +perhaps admitted to be allied to one of the highest evils with +which our nature can be visited, is nevertheless imagined to be an +indication of superior strength of intellect. The weakest minds, +on the contrary, are the most apprehensive of ridicule, and in +consequence are most cautious, by a seeming indifference as to +objects, to avoid the dangerous imputation of a decided partiality. +Such persons, however, forming undoubtedly the greater portion +of every society, console themselves and one another under the +consciousness of debility, by the sense of their safety, and by the +fashionable custom of dealing out wise reflections on those more +enterprising minds, whose eccentricities or ardour, provoke their +admiration.--E.] + +As soon as I got on board, a light breeze springing up at east, we got +under sail, and steered for Matavai Bay, where the Resolution anchored +the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in till the next +morning; so that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled. + + +SECTION II. + +_Interview with Otoo, King of the Island.--Imprudent Conduct of +Omai.--Employments on Shore.--European Animals landed.--Particulars +about a Native who had visited Lima.--About Oedidee--A Revolt +in Eimeo.--War with that Island determined upon, in a Council of +Chiefs.--A human Sacrifice on that Account.--A particular Relation +of the Ceremonies at the great Morai, where the Sacrifice was +offered.--Other barbarous Customs of this People._ + +About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of the whole island, +attended by a great number of canoes full of people, came from Oparre, +his place of residence and having landed on Matavai Point, sent a +message on board, expressing his desire to see me there. Accordingly +I landed, accompanied by Omai, and some of the officers. We found a +prodigious number of people assembled on this occasion, and in the +midst of them was the king, attended by his father, his two brothers, +and three sisters. I went up first and saluted him, being followed by +Omai, who kneeled and embraced his legs. He had prepared himself for +this ceremony, by dressing himself in his very best suit of clothes, +and behaved with a great deal of respect and modesty. Nevertheless, +very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in +producing this cold reception. He made the chief a present of a large +piece of red feathers, and about two or three yards of gold cloth; and +I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, +what was of more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red +feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. + +After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the whole royal +family accompanied me on board, followed by several canoes, laden with +all kinds of provisions, in quantity sufficient to have served the +companies of both ships for a week. Each of the family owned, or +pretended to own, a part; so that I had a present from every one of +them, and every one of them had a separate present in return from me, +which was the great object in view. Soon after, the king's mother, who +had not been present at the first interview, came on board, bringing +with her a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between +me and Omai. For, although he was but little noticed at first by his +countrymen, they no sooner gained the knowledge of his riches, than +they began to court his friendship. I encouraged this as much as I +could, for it was my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave +all my European animals at this island, I thought he would be able to +give some instruction about the management of them, and about their +use. Besides, I knew and saw, that the farther he was from his native +island, he would be the better respected. But, unfortunately, poor +Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a +manner, that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other +person of note in Otaheite. He associated with none but vagabonds and +strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him. And, if I had not +interfered, they would not have left him a single article worth the +carrying from the island. This necessarily drew upon him the ill-will +of the principal chiefs, who found that they could not procure, from +any one in the ships, such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on the +lowest of the people, his companions. + +As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, +taking with us the poultry, with which we were to stock the island. +They consisted of a peacock and hen (which Lord Besborough was so kind +as to send me for this purpose, a few days before I left London); a +turkey-cock and hen; one gander, and three geese; a drake and four +ducks. All these I left at Oparre, in the possession of Otoo; and +the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. We found there +a gander, which the natives told us, was the same that Captain Wallis +had given to Oberea ten years before; several goats, and the Spanish +bull, whom they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a +finer animal of his kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had +been brought from Oheitepeha to this place, in order to be shipped +for Bolabola. But it passes my comprehension, how they can contrive to +carry him in one of their canoes. If we had not arrived, it would have +been of little consequence who had the property of him, as, without +a cow, he could be of no use; and none had been left with him. Though +the natives told us, that there were cows on board the Spanish ships, +and that they took them away with them, I cannot believe this, and +should rather suppose, that they had died in the passage from Lima. +The next day, I sent the three cows, that I had on board, to this +bull; and the bull, which I had brought, the horse and mare, and +sheep, I put ashore at Matavai. + +Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found my self lightened +of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation that attended the +bringing this living cargo thus far, is hardly to be conceived. But +the satisfaction that I felt, in having been so fortunate as to fulfil +his majesty's humane design, in sending such valuable animals, to +supply the wants of two worthy nations, sufficiently recompensed +me for the many anxious hours I had passed, before this subordinate +object of my voyage could be carried into execution. + +As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two observatories +on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them, two tents were pitched for the +reception of a guard, and of such people as it might be necessary to +leave on shore, in different departments. At this station, I +entrusted the command to Mr King, who, at the same time, attended the +observations, for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper, and other +purposes. During our stay, various necessary operations employed the +crews of both ships. The Discovery's main-mast was carried ashore, +and made as good as ever. Our sails and water-casks were repaired, the +ships were caulked, and the rigging all overhauled. We also inspected +all the bread that we had on board in casks; and had the satisfaction +to find that but little of it was damaged. + +On the 26th, I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, and planted +it with several articles, very few of which, I believe, the natives, +will ever look after. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple +plants, were in a fair way of succeeding before we left the place. I +had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees. These I +also planted here; and they can hardly fail of success, unless their +growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity, which +destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A number of +the natives got together to taste the first fruit it bore; but, as +the grapes were still sour, they considered it as little better than +poison, and it was unanimously determined to tread it under foot. +In that state, Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the +discovery. For he had a full confidence, that, if he had but grapes, +he could easily make wine. Accordingly, he had several slips cut off +from the tree, to carry away with him; and we pruned and put in order +the remains of it. Probably, grown wise by Omai's instructions, they +may now suffer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so hasty +a sentence upon it again. + +We had not been eight and forty hours at anchor in Matavai Bay, before +we were visited by all our old friends, whose names are recorded in +the account of my last voyage. Not one of them came empty-handed; so +that we had more provisions than we knew what to do with. What was +still more, we were under no apprehensions of exhausting the island, +which presented to our eyes every mark of the most exuberant plenty, +in every article of refreshment. + +Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives, whom the Spaniards +had carried with them to Lima, paid us a visit; but, in his +external appearance, he was not distinguishable from the rest of his +countrymen. However, he had not forgot some Spanish words which he +had acquired, though he pronounced them badly. Amongst them, the most +frequent were, _si Sennor_; and, when a stranger was introduced to +him, he did not fail to rise up and accost him, as well as he could. + +We also found here the young man whom we called Oedidee, but whose +real name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and +brought him back in 1774; after he had visited the Friendly Islands, +New Zealand, Easter Island, and the Marqueses, and been on board my +ship, in that extensive navigation, about seven months. He was, at +least, as tenacious of his good breeding, as the man who had been +at Lima; and _yes, Sir_, or _if you please, Sir_, were as frequently +repeated by him, as _si Sennor_ was by the other. Heete-heete, who +is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in Otaheite about three months +before, with no other intention, that we could learn, than to gratify +his curiosity, or, perhaps, some other favourite passion; which +are very often the only objects of the pursuit of other travelling +gentlemen. It was evident, however, that he preferred the modes, and +even garb, of his countrymen, to ours. For, though I gave him some +clothes, which our Admiralty Board had been pleased to send for his +use (to which I added a chest of tools, and a few other articles, as a +present from myself), he declined wearing them, after a few days. This +instance, and that of the person who had been at Lima, may be urged +as a proof of the strong propensity natural to man, of returning to +habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. +And, perhaps, it may be concluded, that even Omai, who had imbibed +almost the whole English manners, will, in a very short time after our +leaving him, like Oedidee, and the visiter of Lima, return to his own +native garments.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Captain Cook's remark has often been exemplified in other +instances. The tendency to revert to barbarism is so strong, as to +need to be continually checked by the despotism of refined manners, +and all the healthful emulations of civilized societies. Perhaps the +rather harsh observation of Dr Johnson, that there is always a great +deal of _scoundrelism_ in a low man, is more strictly applicable to +the cases of savages in general, than to even the meanest member of +any cultivated community. But in the case of a superiorly endowed +individual situate amongst a mass of ruder beings, to all of whom he +is attached by the strongest ties of affection and early acquaintance, +another powerfully deranging cause is at work in addition to the +natural tendency to degenerate, viz. the necessity of accommodating +himself to established customs and opinions. The former agent alone, +we know, has often degraded Europeans. Is it to be thought wonderful +then, that, where both principles operate, a man of Omai's character +should speedily relinquish foreign acquirements, and retrograde into +his original barbarity?--E.] + +In the morning of the 27th, a man came from Oheitepeha, and told us, +that two Spanish ships had anchored in that bay the night before; and, +in confirmation of this intelligence, he produced a piece of coarse +blue cloth, which, he said, he got out of one of the ships, and which, +indeed, to appearance, was almost quite new. He added, that Mateema +was in one of the ships, and that they were to come down to Matavai +in a day or two. Some other circumstances which he mentioned, with +the foregoing ones, gave the story so much the air of truth, that I +dispatched Lieutenant Williamson in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha +bay; and, in the mean time, I put the ships into a proper posture +of defence. For, though England and Spain were in peace when I left +Europe, for aught I knew, a different scene might, by this time, have +opened. However, on farther enquiry, we had reason to think that the +fellow who brought the intelligence had imposed upon us; and this was +put beyond all doubt, when Mr Williamson returned next day, who made +his report to me, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no +ships were there now, and that none had been there since we left it. +The people of this part of the island where we now were, indeed, told +us, from the beginning, that it was a fiction invented by those +of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we were at a loss to +conceive, unless they supposed that the report would have some effect +in making us quit the island, and, by that means, deprive the people +of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might reap from our ships +continuing there; the inhabitants of the two parts of the island being +inveterate enemies to each other. + +From the time of our arrival at Matavai, the weather had been very +unsettled, with more or less rain every day, till the 29th; before +which we were not able to get equal altitudes of the sun for +ascertaining the going of the time-keeper. The same cause also +retarded the caulking and other necessary repairs of the ships. + +In the evening of this day, the natives made a precipitate retreat, +both from on board the ships, and from our station on shore. For what +reason, we could not, at first, learn; though, in general, we guessed +it arose from their knowing that some theft had been committed, and +apprehending punishment on that account. At length, I understood what +had happened. One of the surgeon's mates had been in the country to +purchase curiosities, and had taken with him four hatchets for that +purpose. Having employed one of the natives to carry them for him, the +fellow took an opportunity to run off with so valuable a prize. This +was the cause of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself, and his +whole family, had joined; and it was with difficulty that I stopped +them, after following them two or three miles. As I had resolved to +take no measures for the recovery of the hatchets, in order to put +my people upon their guard against such negligence for the future, +I found no difficulty in bringing the natives back, and in restoring +every thing to its usual tranquillity. + +Hitherto, the attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to +us; but, next morning, a new scene of business opened, by the arrival +of some messengers from Eimeo, or (as it is much oftener called by the +natives) Morea,[6] with intelligence, that the people in that island +were in arms; and that Otoo's partizans there had been worsted, and +obliged to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two +islands, which commenced in 1774, as mentioned in the account of +my last voyage, had, it seems, partly subsisted ever since. The +formidable armament which I saw at that time, and described, had +sailed soon after I then left Otaheite; but the malcontents of Eimeo +had made so stout a resistance, that the fleet had returned without +effecting much; and now another expedition was necessary. + +[Footnote 6: Morea, according to Dr Forster, is a district in Eimeo. +See his _Observations_, p. 217.] + +On the arrival of these messengers, all the chiefs, who happened to +be at Matavai, assembled at Otoo's house, where I actually was at the +time, and had the honour to be admitted into their council. One of +the messengers opened the business of the assembly, in a speech +of considerable length. But I understood little of it, besides its +general purport, which was to explain the situation of affairs in +Eimeo; and to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to arm on +the occasion. This opinion was combated by others who were against +commencing hostilities; and the debate was carried on with great +order, no more than one man speaking at a time. At last, they became +very noisy, and I expected that our meeting would have ended like a +Polish diet. But the contending great men cooled as fast as they +grew warm, and order was soon restored. At length, the party for war +prevailed; and it was determined, that a strong force should be sent +to assist their friends in Eimeo. But this resolution was far from +being unanimous. Otoo, during the whole debate, remained silent; +except that, now and then, he addressed a word or two to the speakers. +Those of the council, who were for prosecuting the war, applied to me +for my assistance; and all of them wanted to know what part I would +take. Omai was sent for to be my interpreter; but, as he could not be +found, I was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I +could, that as I was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and +as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think +myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With this +declaration they either were, or seemed, satisfied. The assembly then +broke up; but, before I left them, Otoo desired me to come to him in +the afternoon, and to bring Omai with me. + +Accordingly, a party of us waited upon him at the appointed time; and +we were conducted by him to his father, in whose presence the dispute +with Eimeo was again talked over. Being very desirous of devising some +method to bring about an accommodation, I sounded the old chief on +that head. But we found him deaf to any such proposal, and fully +determined to prosecute the war. He repeated the solicitations which +I had already resisted, about giving them my assistance. On our +enquiring into the cause of the war, we were told, that, some years +ago, a brother of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the +request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to be their king; +but that he had not been there a week before Maheine, having caused +him to be killed, set up for himself, in opposition to Tierataboonooe, +his sister's son, who became the lawful heir; or else had been pitched +upon, by the people of Otaheite, to succeed to the government on the +death of the other. + +Towha, who was a relation of Otoo, and chief of the district of +Tettaha, a man of much weight in the island, and who had been +commander-in-chief of the armament fitted out against Eimeo in 1774, +happened not to be at Matavai at this time; and, consequently, was not +present at any of these consultations. It, however, appeared that he +was no stranger to what was transacted; and that he entered with more +spirit into the affair than any other chief. For, early in the morning +of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo +that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the _Eatooa_, to implore +the assistance of the god against Eimeo. This act of worship was to be +performed at the great _Morai_ at Attahooroo; and Otoo's presence, it +seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occasion. + +That the offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious +institutions of this island, had been mentioned by Mons. de +Bougainville, on the authority of the native whom he carried with +him to France. During my last visit to Otaheite, and while I had +opportunities of conversing with Omai on the subject, I had satisfied +myself that there was too much reason to admit that such a practice, +however inconsistent with the general humanity of the people, was here +adopted. But as this was one of those extraordinary facts, about which +many are apt to retain doubts, unless the relater himself has had +ocular proof to confirm what he had heard from others, I thought this +a good opportunity of obtaining the highest evidence of its certainty, +by being present myself at the solemnity; and, accordingly, proposed +to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany him. To this he readily +consented; and we immediately set out in my boat, with my old friend +Potatou, Mr Anderson, and Mr Webber; Omai following in a canoe. + +In our way we landed upon a little island, which lies off Tettaha, +where we found Towha and his retinue. After some little conversation +between the two chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed +himself to me, asking my assistance. When I excused myself, he seemed +angry, thinking it strange, that I, who had always declared myself to +be the friend of their island, would not now go and fight against its +enemies. Before we parted, he gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, +tied up in a tuft, and a lean half-starved dog was put into a canoe +that was to accompany us. We then embarked again, taking on board a +priest who was to assist at the solemnity. + +As soon as we landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o'clock in the +afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that the seamen might be ordered +to remain in the boat; and that Mr Anderson, Mr Webber, and myself, +might take off our hats as soon as we should come to the _morai_, to +which we immediately proceeded, attended by a great many men and some +boys, but not one woman. We found four priests, and their attendants, +or assistants, waiting for us. The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a +small canoe that lay on the beach, and partly in the wash of the +sea, fronting the _morai_. Two of the priests, with some of their +attendants, were sitting by the canoe, the others at the _morai_. Our +company stopped about twenty or thirty paces from the priests. Here +Otoo placed himself; we, and a few others, standing by him, while the +bulk of the people remained at a greater distance. + +The ceremonies now began. One of the priest's attendants brought a +young plantain-tree, and laid it down before Otoo. Another approached +with a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the +cocoa-nut husk, with which he touched one of the king's feet, and then +retired with it to his companions. One of the priests, seated at +the _morai_, facing those who were upon the beach, now began a long +prayer, and at certain times, sent down young plantain-trees, which +were laid upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, a man, who stood by +the officiating priest, held in his hands two bundles, seemingly of +cloth. In one of them, as we afterward found, was the royal _maro_; +and the other, if I may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the +_Eatooa_. As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the _morai_, +with their attendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, +carrying with them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers; +during which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at different +times, from off the sacrifice, which was partly wrapped up in cocoa +leaves and small branches. It was now taken out of the canoe, and +laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea. The priests placed +themselves around it, some sitting and others standing, and one or +more of them repeated sentences for about ten minutes. The dead body +was now uncovered, by removing the leaves and branches, and laid in +a parallel direction with the sea-shore. One of the priests then +standing at the feet of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was +at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand a tuft of red +feathers. In the course of this prayer, some hair was pulled off the +head of the sacrifice, and the left eye taken out, both which were +presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not however +touch it, but gave to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers +which he had received from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, was +carried back to the priests. Soon after, Otoo sent to them another +piece of feathers, which he had given me in the morning to keep in my +pocket. During some part of this last ceremony, a kingfisher making a +noise in the trees, Otoo turned to me, saying, "That is the _Eatooa_" +and seemed to look upon it to be a good omen. + +The body was then carried a little way, with its head towards the +_morai_, and laid under a tree, near which were fixed three broad thin +pieces of wood, differently but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth +were laid on a part of the _morai_, and the tufts of red feathers +were placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the priests took +their stations, and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. +He who seemed to be the chief priest sat at a small distance, and +spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and gestures, +so that he seemed often to expostulate with the dead person, to +whom he constantly addressed himself; and sometimes asked several +questions, seemingly with respect to the propriety of his having been +killed. At other times, he made several demands, as if the deceased +either now had power himself, or interest with the divinity, to engage +him to comply with such requests. Amongst which, we understood, he +asked him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the hogs, women, and +other things of the island, into their hands; which was, indeed, the +express intention of the sacrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which +lasted near half an hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, accompanied +by two other priests; and in which Potatou and some others joined. In +the course of this prayer, some more hair was plucked by a priest from +the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After this, +the chief priest prayed alone, holding in his hand the feathers which +came from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to another, who +prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of feathers were laid upon +the bundles of cloth, which closed the ceremony at this place. + +The corpse was then carried up to the most conspicuous part of the +_morai_, with the feathers, the two bundles of cloth, and the drums; +the last of which beat slowly. The feathers and bundles were laid +against the pile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. +The priests having again seated themselves round it, renewed their +prayers, while some of their attendants dug a hole about two feet +deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over +with earth and stones. While they were putting him into the grave, +a boy squeaked aloud, and Omai said to me, that it was the _Eatooa_. +During this time, a fire having been made, the dog before-mentioned, +was produced, and killed, by twisting his neck and suffocating him. +The hair was singed off, and the entrails taken out, and thrown into +the fire, where they were left to consume. But the heart, liver, +and kidneys were only roasted, by being laid on hot stones for a +few minutes; and the body of the dog, after being besmeared with the +blood, which had been collected into a cocoa-nut shell, and dried over +the fire, was, with the liver, &c. carried and laid down before +the priests, who sat praying round the grave. They continued their +ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two men, at intervals, +beat on two drums very loud; and a boy screamed, as before, in a loud, +shrill voice, three different times. This, as we were told, was to +invite the _Eatooa_ to feast on the banquet that they had prepared for +him. As soon as the priests had ended their prayers, the carcass +of the dog, with what belonged to it, were laid on a _whatta_, or +scaffold, about six feet high, that stood close by, on which lay the +remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had lately been +sacrificed, and, at this time, emitted an intolerable stench. This +kept us at a greater distance, than would otherwise have been required +of us. For after the victim was removed from the sea-side toward the +_morai_, we were allowed to approach as near as we pleased. Indeed, +after that, neither seriousness nor attention were much observed by +the spectators. When the dog was put upon the _whatta_, the priests +and attendants gave a kind of shout, which closed the ceremonies for +the present. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a +house belonging to Potatou, where we were entertained, and lodged +for the night. We had been told that the religious rites were to be +renewed in the morning; and I would not leave the place, while any +thing remained to be seen. + +Being unwilling to lose any part of the solemnity, some of us repaired +to the scene of action pretty early, but found nothing going forward. +However, soon after a pig was sacrificed, and laid upon the same +_whatta_ with the others. About eight o'clock, Otoo took us again to +the _morai_, where the priests, and a great number of men, were by +this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which we +had seen them deposited the preceding evening; the two drums stood in +the front of the _morai_, but somewhat nearer it than before, and the +priests were beyond them. Otoo placed himself between the two drums, +and desired me to stand by him. + +The ceremony began, as usual, with bringing a young plantain-tree, and +laying it down at the king's feet. After this a prayer was repeated +by the priests, who held in their hands several tufts of red feathers, +and also a plume of ostrich feathers, which I had given to Otoo on my +first arrival, and had been consecrated to this use. When the priests +had made an end of the prayer, they changed their station, placing +themselves between us and the _morai_; and one of them, the same +person who had acted the principal part the day before, began another +prayer, which lasted about half an hour. During the continuance of +this, the tufts of feathers were, one by one, carried and laid upon +the ark of the _Eatooa_. + +Some little time after, four pigs were produced, one of which was +immediately killed, and the others were taken to a sty hard by, +probably reserved for some future occasion of sacrifice. One of the +bundles was now untied; and it was found, as I have before observed, +to contain the _maro_, with which these people invest their kings, +and which seems to answer, in some degree, to the European ensigns +of royalty, it was carefully taken out of the cloth, in which, it had +been wrapped up, and spread at full length upon the ground before the +priests. It is a girdle, about five yards long; and fifteen inches +broad; and, from its name, seems to be put on in the same manner as +is the common _maro_, or piece of cloth, used by these people to wrap +round the waist. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers, but +mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon the island. The +one end was bordered with eight pieces, each about the size and shape +of a horse-shoe, having their edges fringed with black feathers. The +other end was forked, and the points were of different lengths. +The feathers were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, and +otherwise so disposed, as to produce a pleasing effect. They had been +first pasted or fixed upon some of their own country cloth, and +then sewed to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis had +displayed, and left flying ashore, the first time that he landed at +Matavai. This was what they told us; and we had no reason to doubt it, +as we could easily trace the remains of an English pendant. About six +or eight inches square of the _maro_ was unornamented, there being +no feathers upon that space, except a few that had been sent by +Waheiadooa, as already mentioned. The priests made a long prayer, +relative to this part of the ceremony; and, if I mistook not, they +called it the prayer of the _maro_. When it was finished, the badge +of royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and deposited +again upon the _morai_. + +The other bundle, which I have distinguished by the name of the ark, +was next opened at one end. But we were not allowed to go near enough +to examine its mysterious contents. The information we received was, +that the _Eatooa_, to whom they had been sacrificing, and whose +name is _Ooro_, was concealed in it, or rather what is supposed to +represent him. This sacred repository is made of the twisted fibres +of the husk of the cocoa-nut, shaped somewhat like a large fig, or +sugar-loaf, that is, roundish, with one end much thicker than the +other. We had very often got small ones from different people, but +never knew their use before. + +By this time, the pig that had been killed, was cleaned, and the +entrails taken out. These happened to have a considerable share of +those convulsive motions, which often appear, in different parts, +after an animal is killed; and this was considered by the spectators +as a very favourable omen to the expedition on account of which the +sacrifices had been offered. After being exposed for some time, that +those who chose might examine their appearances, the entrails were +carried to the priests, and laid down before them. While one of their +number prayed, another inspected the entrails more narrowly, and kept +turning them gently with a stick. When they had been sufficiently +examined, they were thrown into the fire, and left to consume. The +sacrificed pig and its liver, &c. were now put upon the _whatta_, +where the dog had been deposited the day before; and then all the +feathers, except the ostrich plume, were enclosed with the _Eatooa_ in +the ark, and the solemnity finally closed. + +Four double canoes lay upon the beach, before the place of sacrifice, +all the morning. On the fore part of each of these was fixed a small +platform, covered with palm-leaves, tied in mysterious knots; and +this also is called a _morai_. Some cocoa-nuts, plantains, pieces +of bread-fruit, fish, and other things, lay upon each of these naval +_morais_. We were told that they belonged to the _Eatooa_, and that +they were to attend the fleet designed to go against Eimeo. + +The unhappy victim, offered to the object of their worship upon this +occasion, seemed to be a middle-aged man; and, as we were told, was a +_toutou_, that is, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after +all my enquiries, I could not learn that he had been pitched upon on +account of any particular crime committed by him meriting death. It +is certain, however, that they generally make choice of such guilty +persons for their sacrifices, or else of common, low fellows who +stroll about, from place to place, and from island to island, without +having any fixed abode, or any visible way of getting an honest +livelihood; of which description of men, enough are to be met with at +these islands. Having had an opportunity of examining the appearance +of the body of the poor sufferer now offered up, I could observe, that +it was bloody about the head and face, and a good deal bruised upon +the right temple, which marked the manner of his being killed. And +we were told, that he had been privately knocked on the head with a +stone. + +Those who are devoted to suffer, in order to perform this bloody act +of worship, are never apprised of their fate, till the blow is given +that puts an end to their existence. Whenever any one of the +great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice necessary, on any particular +emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his trusty servants +are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and put him to death with +a club, or by stoning him. The king is next acquainted with it, +whose presence, at the solemn rites that follow, is, as I was told, +absolutely necessary; and indeed on the present occasion, we could +observe, that Otoo bore a principal part. The solemnity itself is +called _Poore Eree_, or chief's prayer; and the victim, who is offered +up, _Taata-taboo_, or consecrated man. This is the only instance where +we have heard the word _taboo_ used at this island, where it seems to +have the same mysterious signification as at Tonga, though it is +there applied to all cases where things are not to be touched. But +at Otaheite, the word _raa_ serves the same purpose, and is full as +extensive in its meaning. + +The _morai_, (which undoubtedly is a place of worship, sacrifice, and +burial, at the same time,) where the sacrifice was now offered, is +that where the supreme chief of the whole island is always buried, and +is appropriated to his family, and some of the principal people. It +differs little from the common ones, except in extent. Its principal +part is a large oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon each; other, +about twelve or fourteen feet high; contracted toward the top, with +a square area on each side, loosely paved with pebble stones, under +which the bones of the chiefs are buried. At a little distance from +the end nearest the sea is the place where the sacrifices are offered, +which, for a considerable extent, is also loosely paved. There is here +a very large scaffold, or _whatta_, on which the offerings of fruits +and other vegetables are laid. But the animals are deposited on a +smaller one, already mentioned, and the human sacrifices are buried +under different parts of the pavement. There are several other +reliques which ignorant superstition had scattered about this place; +such as small stones, raised in different parts of the pavement, some +with bits of cloth tied round them, others covered with it; and upon +the side of the large pile, which fronts the area, are placed a great +many pieces of carved wood, which are supposed to be sometimes the +residence of their divinities, and consequently held sacred. But one +place more particular than the rest, is a heap of stones at one end +of the large _whatta_, before which the sacrifice was offered, with a +kind of platform at one side. On this are laid the sculls of all the +human sacrifices, which are taken up after they have been several +months under ground. Just above them are placed a great number of the +pieces of wood; and it was also here, where the _maro_, and the other +bundle supposed to contain the god Ooro (and which I call the ark), +were laid during the ceremony, a circumstance which denotes its +agreement with the altar of other nations. + +It is much to be regretted, that a practice so horrid in its +own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right of +self-preservation which every one is born with, should be found still +existing; and (such is the power of superstition to counteract the +first principles of humanity!) existing amongst a people, in many +other respects, emerged from the brutal manners of savage life. What +is still worse, it is probable that these bloody rites of worship +are prevalent throughout all the wide-extended islands of the Pacific +Ocean. The similarity of customs and language, which our late voyages +have enabled us to trace, between the most distant of these islands, +makes it not unlikely that some of the more important articles of +their religious institutions should agree. And indeed we had the most +authentic information, that human sacrifices continue to be offered at +the Friendly Islands. When I described the _Natche_ at Tongataboo, I +mentioned that on the approaching sequel of that festival, we had been +told that ten men were to be sacrificed. This may give us an idea of +the extent of this religious massacre in that island. And though we +should suppose that never more than one person is sacrificed on any +single occasion at Otaheite, it is more than probable that these +occasions happen so frequently, as to make a shocking waste of the +human race, for I counted no less than forty-nine sculls of former +victims, lying before the _morai_, where we saw one more added to +the number. And as none of those sculls had as yet suffered any +considerable change from the weather, it may hence be inferred, +that no great length of time had elapsed, since, at least, this +considerable number of unhappy wretches had been offered upon this +altar of blood. + +The custom, though no consideration can make it cease to be +abominable, might be thought less detrimental in some respects, if it +served to impress any awe for the divinity or reverence for religion +upon the minds of the multitude. But this is so far from being the +case, that though a great number of people had assembled at the +_morai_ on this occasion, they did not seem to shew any proper +reverence for what was doing or saying during the celebration of the +rites. And Omai happening to arrive, after they had begun, many of the +spectators flocked round him, and were engaged the remainder of the +time in making him relate some of his adventures, which they listened +to with great attention, regardless of the solemn offices performing +by their priests. Indeed, the priests themselves, except the one who +chiefly repeated the prayers, either from their being familiarized +to such objects, or from want of confidence in the efficacy of +their institutions, observed very little of that solemnity which is +necessary to give to religious performances their due weight. Their +dress was only an ordinary one, they conversed together without +scruple, and the only attempt made by them to preserve any appearance +of decency, was by exerting their authority to prevent the people from +coming upon the very spot where the ceremonies were performed, and +to suffer us as strangers to advance a little forward. They were, +however, very candid in their answers to any questions that were put +to them concerning the institution. And particularly on being asked +what the intention of it was, they said that it was an old custom, and +was agreeable to their god, who delighted in, or in other words, came +and fed upon the sacrifices; in consequence of which, he complied with +their petitions. Upon its being objected that he could not feed on +these, as he was neither seen to do it, nor were the bodies of the +animals quickly consumed, and that as to the human victim, they +prevented his feeding on him by burying him. But to all this they +answered, that he came in the night, but invisibly, and fed only on +the soul, or immaterial part, which, according to their doctrine, +remains about the place of sacrifice, until the body of the victim be +entirely wasted by putrefaction. + +It were much to be wished, that this deluded people may learn to +entertain the same horror of murdering their fellow-creatures, in +order to furnish such an invisible banquet to their god, as they now +have of feeding corporeally on human flesh themselves. And yet we +have great reason to believe, that there was a time when they were +cannibals. We were told (and indeed partly saw it) that it is a +necessary ceremony when a poor wretch is sacrificed, for the priest to +take out the left eye. This he presents to the king, holding it to +his mouth, which he desires him to open; but instead of putting it in, +immediately withdraws it. This they call "eating the man," or "food +for the chief;" and perhaps we may observe here some traces of former +times, when the dead body was really feasted upon. + +But not to insist upon this, it is certain, that human sacrifices are +not the only barbarous custom we find still prevailing amongst this +benevolent humane people. For besides cutting out the jaw-bones of +their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about as trophies, +they, in some measure, offer their bodies as a sacrifice to the +_Eatooa_. Soon after a battle, in which they have been victors, they +collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands and bring them +to the _morai_, where, with a great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole, +and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods; but their +sculls are never after taken up. + +Their own great chiefs that fall in battle are treated in a +different manner. We were informed, that their late king Tootaha, +Tubourai-tamaide, and another chief, who fell with them in the +battle fought with those of Tiaraboo, were brought to this _morai_ at +Attahooroo. There their bowels were cut out by the priests before +the great altar, and the bodies afterward buried in three different +places, which were pointed out to us, in the great pile of stones that +compose the most conspicuous part of this _morai_. And their common +men who also fell in this battle, were all buried in one hole at the +foot of the pile. This, Omai, who was present, told me, was done the +day after the battle, with much pomp and ceremony, and in the midst +of a great concourse of people, as a thanksgiving-offering to the +_Eatooa_, for the victory they had obtained; while the vanquished had +taken refuge in the mountains. There they remained a week or ten days, +till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty set on foot, by +which it was agreed, that Otoo should be declared king of the whole +island, and the solemnity of investing him with the _maro_ was +performed at the same _morai_ with great pomp, in the presence of all +the principal men of the country.[7] + +[Footnote 7: We must trespass a little on the reader's patience as +was formerly threatened. But on so curious, and indeed so exceedingly +important a subject as human sacrifices, it is allowable to claim the +serious attention of every intelligent being. Who can withhold anxiety +from an enquiry into the reality of the fact, as a fundamental part +of religion in every nation at some period of its history--or dare to +affect indifference as to the origin and meaning of so portentous and +horrible a rite? It will be our study to be as brief as possible in +conveying the information respecting both, which every man ought to +possess, who values correct opinions respecting the moral condition of +our nature. First, then, as to the universality of the practice. +This is of course to be ascertained from testimony. And perhaps on no +subject in the history of mankind, is there a more decided agreement +in the assertions of different witnesses. We shall run over the +various nations of the earth, of whom we have any thing like +satisfactory evidence. Here we avail ourselves of the labours of +several authors, as Dr Jenkin, De Paauw, Mr Bryant, Mr Parkhurst, Dr +Magee, and others. We commence with the Egyptians, of whom alone, we +believe, any doubt as to their being implicated in the practice has +been entertained. Thus Dr Forster, in his Observations on Cook's +Second Voyage, excepts them from his remark that all the ancient +nations sacrificed men, saying that where-ever it is affirmed in old +writers that these people were addicted to it, we are to understand +them as alluding to the Arabian shepherds, who at one time subdued +Egypt. Such _was_ the opinion of the writer of this note, but more +attentive enquiry has induced him, in this instance, to disregard +the distinction. Diodorus Siculus and Plutarch, quoted by Dr Magee, +mention their sacrificing red-haired men at the tomb of Osiris; and +from other sources, it appears that they had a custom of sacrificing +a virgin to the river Nile, by flinging her into its stream. The +Phoenicians, Canaanites, Moabites, Ammonites, and other neighbouring +people, were in the habit of sacrificing their children to their +idols, especially Moloch, on certain, calamities, and for various +reasons. See on this head some of the commentators on Scripture, as +Ainsworth on Levit. 18th, and still more particularly, consult Selecta +Sacra Braunii, a work formerly referred to. The Ethiopians, according +to the Romance of Heliodorus, admitted to be good authority as to +manners, &c. sacrificed their children to the sun and moon. The +Scythians, as related in the curious description given of them by +Herodotus, in Melpom. 62, particularly honoured the god Mars, by +sacrificing to him every hundredth captive. This they did, he says, by +cutting their throats, &c. The same author informs us of the Persians, +that they had a custom of burying persons alive, generally young ones +it would seem, in honour of the river Strymon, considered by them as a +deity. Polym. 114. In this he is confirmed by Plutarch. Other writers, +also, charge the Persians with using human sacrifices, as is shewn by +Dr Magee. The same may be said of the Chinese and Indians, according +to works mentioned by that gentleman. The case of the latter people +has been made notorious by Dr Buchanan. With respect to the Grecian +states in general, we have the most indubitable evidence of the +prevalence of supplicating their gods by human sacrifices, when going +against their enemies, as we see done by the Otaheitans, and on other +occasions. The Roman history, in its early state especially, abounds +in like examples, as every reader will be prepared to prove. The +practice was shockingly prevalent amongst the Carthaginians and other +inhabitants of Africa. The writer above quoted, specifies the works +which mention it, and has enumerated the authorities for asserting the +same of a great many other ancient people, as the Getae, Leucadians, +Goths, Gauls, Heruli, Britons, Germans; besides the Arabians, Cretans, +Cyprians, Rhodians, Phocians, and the inhabitants of Chios, Lesbos, +Tenedos, and Pella. The northern nations, without exception, are +chargeable with the same enormity. Of this, satisfactory evidence has +been adduced by Dr Magee from various authors, as Mr Thorkelin in his +Essay on the Slave Trade, Mallet, in his work on Northern Antiquities, +&c. And it is well known that the evil existed amongst the Mexicans, +Peruvians, and other people of America, in a degree surpassing its +magnitude in any other country. The perusal of the present narrative, +and of other accounts of voyages, will evince the continuance of the +practice throughout more recent people. On the whole then, we assert, +that the fact of the universality of human sacrifice amongst the +various nations of the world is perfectly well authenticated. Let +us next say a word or two respecting its origin and meaning. Here +we shall find it necessary to consider the origin and meaning of +sacrifice in general, as it is self-evident that the notion of +sacrifice is previous to the selection of the subjects for it, that +of human beings differing only in degree of worth or excellence from +those of any other kind. What then could induce mankind universally to +imagine, that sacrifices of animals could be agreeable to those beings +whom they judged superior to themselves, and the proper objects of +religious adoration? Reason gives no sanction to the practice; on the +contrary, most positively condemns it, as unnecessary, unjust, cruel, +and therefore more likely to incur displeasure than to obtain favour. +Besides, it must always have been expensive, and very often dangerous, +so that we must entirely discard the notion of a sense of interest +having given occasion to it, unless we can prove, that some valuable +consequence was to result from it. This however cannot be done without +first shewing its acceptableness to the Being whose regard is thereby +solicited. There remain, perhaps, only two other motives which we can +conceive to have given origin to the custom, viz. some instinctive +principle of our nature by which we are led to it, independent of +either reason or a sense of interest, as in the case of our appetites, +and a positive injunction or command to that effect by some being +who has the requisite authority over our conduct. The author so often +alluded to, Dr Magee, who has so profoundly considered this subject in +his work on Atonement, &c. rejects the former supposition, affirming +that we have no natural instinct to gratify, in spilling the blood +of an innocent creature; and, as he has also set aside the other +two notions, of course, he adopts the latter as sufficient for the +solution of the question. The writer concurs in this opinion, but at +the same time, he thinks it of the utmost importance to observe, that +as the original injunction or command was assuredly subsequent to the +sense of moral delinquency, and was directed in the view of a +relief to the conscience of man, so the continuance of the practice, +according to any perversion of the primitive and consequently proper +institution, is always connected with, and in fact implies, the +existence of a feeling of personal demerit and danger. In other words, +he conceives there is a suitableness betwixt the operation of man's +conscience and that effectual remedy for its uneasiness to which the +original institution of animal sacrifices pointed. But it does not +follow from this, that man's conscience or reason, or any thing else +within him, could ever have made the discovery of the remedy. A sense +of his need of it, would undoubtedly set him on various efforts +to relieve himself, but this, it is probable, would be as blind a +principle as the appetite of hunger, and as much would require aid +from an external power. Among the devices to which it might have +recourse, very possibly, the notion of giving up a darling object, +ought to be included; so it would appear, thought a king of Moab, +spoken of by Micah the prophet, chap. 6th, "Shall I give my first-born +for my transgression," &c. But even admitting this, we still see the +primary difficulty remaining, viz. what reason is there for imagining +that the gift in any shape, and more especially when slaughtered, will +be accepted? We are driven then to contemplate the revelation of the +divine will as the only adequate explanation; and this, it is evident, +we must consider as having been handed down by a corrupt process of +tradition, among the various nations of the earth. It would be easy to +urge arguments in behalf of this opinion. But already the matter has +gone beyond common bounds, and the writer dare not hazard another +remark. All he shall do then, is to commend this interesting topic to +the reader's attention, and to request, that due allowances be made +for the omission of certain qualifications which are requisite for +some of the remarks now made, but which the limits of the note could +not allow to be inserted.--E.] + + +SECTION III. + +_Conference with Towha.--Heevas described.--Omai and Oedidee give +Dinners.--Fireworks exhibited.--A remarkable Present of +Cloth.--Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief.--Another +human Sacrifice.--Riding on Horseback.--Otoo's Attention to supply +Provisions, and prevent Thefts.--Animals given to him.--Etary, and +the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences.--A mock Fight of two War +Canoes.--Naval Strength of these Islands.--Manner of conducting a +War._ + +The close of the very singular scene exhibited at the _morai_, which +I have faithfully described in the last chapter, leaving us no other +business in Attahooroo, we embarked about noon, in order to return +to Matavai; and, in our way, visited Towha, who had remained on the +little island where we met him the day before. Some conversation +passed between Otoo and him, on the present posture of public affairs; +and then the latter solicited me once more to join them in their war +against Eimeo. By my positive refusal I entirely lost the good graces +of this chief. + +Before we parted, he asked us if the solemnity at which we had +been present answered our expectations; what opinion we had of its +efficacy; and whether we performed such acts of worship in our +own country? During the celebration of the horrid ceremony, we had +preserved a profound silence; but as soon as it was closed, had made +no scruple in expressing our sentiments very freely about it to Otoo, +and those who attended him; of course, therefore, I did not conceal my +detestation of it in this conversation with Towha. Besides the cruelty +of the bloody custom, I strongly urged the unreasonableness of it; +telling the chief, that such a sacrifice, far from making the _Eatooa_ +propitious to their nation, as they ignorantly believed, would be +the means of drawing down his vengeance; and that, from this very +circumstance, I took upon me to judge, that their intended expedition +against Maheine would be unsuccessful. This was venturing pretty far +upon conjecture; but still, I thought, that there was little danger +of being mistaken. For I found, that there were three parties in the +island, with regard to this war; one extremely violent for it; another +perfectly indifferent about the matter; and the third openly +declaring themselves friends to Maheine and his cause. Under these +circumstances, of disunion distracting their councils, it was not +likely that such a plan of military operations would be settled +as could insure even a probability of success. In conveying our +sentiments to Towha, on the subject of the late sacrifice, Omai was +made use of as our interpreter; and he entered into our arguments with +so much spirit, that the chief seemed to be in great wrath; especially +when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he +had done here, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged +for it. Upon this, he exclaimed, _maeno_! _maeno_! [vile! vile!] and +would not hear another word. During this debate, many of the natives +were present, chiefly the attendants and servants of Towha himself; +and when Omai began to explain the punishment that would be inflicted +in England, upon the greatest man, if he killed the meanest servant, +they seemed to listen with great attention; and were probably of a +different opinion from that of their master on this subject. + +After leaving Towha, we proceeded to Oparre, where Otoo pressed us +to spend the night. We landed in the evening; and, on our road to his +house, had an opportunity of observing in what manner these people +amuse themselves in their private _heevas_. About an hundred of them +were found sitting in a house; and in the midst of them were two +women, with an old man behind each of them beating very gently upon +a drum; and the women at intervals singing in a softer manner than I +ever heard at their other diversions. The assembly listened with great +attention; and were seemingly almost absorbed in the pleasure the +music gave them; for few took any notice of us, and the performers +never once stopped. It was almost dark before we reached Otoo's house, +where we were entertained with one of their public _heevas_, or plays, +in which his three sisters appeared as the principal characters. This +was what they call a _heeva raä_, which is of such a nature, that +nobody is to enter the house or area where it is exhibited. When +the royal sisters are the performers, this is always the case. Their +dress, on this occasion, was truly picturesque and elegant; and they +acquitted themselves, in their parts, in a very distinguished manner; +though some comic interludes, performed by four men seemed to yield +greater pleasure to the audience, which was numerous. The next morning +we proceeded to Matavai, leaving Otoo at Oparre; but his mother, +sisters, and several other women attended me on board, and Otoo +himself followed soon after. + +While Otoo and I were absent from the ships, they had been but +sparingly supplied with fruit, and had few visitors. After our return, +we again overflowed with provisions and with company. + +On the 4th, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who gave excellent +fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner, I +attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where +I found all his servants very busy getting a quantity of provisions +ready for me. Amongst other articles, there was a large hog, which +they killed in my presence. The entrails were divided into eleven +portions, in such a manner that each of them contained a bit of every +thing. These portions were distributed to the servants, and some +dressed theirs in the same oven with the hog, while others carried +off, undressed, what had come to their share. There was also a large +pudding, the whole process in making which, I saw. It was composed +of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus nuts, each +rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of +juice, expressed from cocoa-nut kernels, was put into a large tray or +wooden vessel. The other articles, hot from the oven, were deposited +in this vessel; and a few hot stones were also put in to make the +contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir the +several ingredients, till they were incorporated one with another, and +the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil; so that the whole mass, +at last, became of the consistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these +puddings are excellent; and few that we make in England equal them. I +seldom or never dined without one when I could get it, which was not +always the case. Otoo's hog being baked, and the pudding, which I +have described, being made, they, together with two living hogs, and +a quantity of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe, and +sent on board my ship, followed by myself, and all the royal family. + +The following evening, a young ram, of the Cape breed, that had been +lambed, and with great care brought up on board the ship, was killed +by a dog. Incidents are of more or less consequence, as connected with +situation. In our present situation, desirous as I was to propagate +this useful race amongst these islands, the loss of the ram was a +serious misfortune; as it was the only one I had of that breed; and I +had only one of the English breed left. + +In the evening of the 7th, we played off some fireworks before a great +concourse of people. Some were highly entertained with the exhibition; +but by far the greater number of spectators were terribly frightened; +insomuch, that it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to +keep together to see the end of the shew. A table-rocket was the last. +It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in a moment; even +the most resolute among them fled with precipitation. + +The next day, a party of us dined with our former ship-mate, Oedidee, +on fish and pork. The hog weighed about thirty pounds; and it may be +worth mentioning, that it was alive, dressed, and brought upon the +table within the hour. We had but just dined, when Otoo came and asked +me if my belly was full. On my answering in the affirmative, he +said, "Then, come along with me." I accordingly went with him to his +father's, where I found some people employed in dressing two girls +with a prodigious quantity of fine cloth, after a very singular +fashion: The one end of each piece of cloth, of which there were +a good many, was held up over the heads of the girls, while the +remainder was wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits; then the +upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground, +over the other, so as to bear some resemblance to a circular +hoop-petticoat. Afterward, round the outside of all, were wrapped +several pieces of differently-coloured cloth, which considerably +increased the size; so that it was not less than five or six yards +in circuit, and the weight of this singular attire was as much as +the poor girls could support. To each were hang two _taames_, +or breast-plates, by way of enriching the whole, and giving it a +picturesque appearance. Thus equipped, they were conducted on board +the ship, together with several hogs, and a quantity of fruit, which, +with the cloth, was a present to me from Otoo's father. Persons of +either sex, dressed in this manner, are called _atee_; but, I believe, +it is never practised, except when large presents of cloth are to be +made. At least, I never saw it practised upon any other occasion; nor, +indeed, had I ever such a present before; but both Captain Clerke and +I had cloth given to us afterward, thus wrapped round the bearers. The +next day, I had a present of five hogs and some fruit from Otoo; +and one hog and some fruit from each of his sisters. Nor were other +provisions wanting. For two or three days, great quantities of +mackerel had been caught by the natives, within the reef, in seines; +some of which they brought to the ships and tents and sold. + +Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants, by a succession of +presents, than he was to contribute to our amusement, by a succession +of diversions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre on the 10th, +he treated us with what may be called a play. His three sisters were +the actresses; and the dresses that they appeared in were new and +elegant; that is, more so than we had usually met with at any of these +islands. But the principal object I had in view, this day, in going +to Oparre, was to take a view of an embalmed corpse, which some of our +gentlemen had happened to meet with at that place, near the residence +of Otoo. On enquiry, I found it to be the remains of Tee, a chief well +known to me when I was at this island during my last voyage. It was +lying in a _toopapaoo_, more elegantly constructed than their common +ones, and in all respects similar to that lately seen by us at +Oheitepeha, in which the remains of Waheiadooa are deposited, embalmed +in the same manner. When we arrived at the place, the body was under +cover, and wrapped up in cloth within the _toopapaoo_; but, at my +desire, the man who had the care of it, brought it out, and laid it +upon a kind of bier, in such a manner, that we had as full a view of +it as we could wish; but we were not allowed to go within the pales +that enclosed the _toopapaoo_. After he had thus exhibited the corpse, +he hung the place with mats and cloth, so disposed as to produce a +very pretty effect. We found the body not only entire in every part; +but, what surprised us much more, was, that putrefaction seemed +scarcely to be begun, as there was not the least disagreeable smell +proceeding from it; though the climate is one of the hottest, and Tee +had been dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration that +had happened, was a shrinking of the muscular parts and eyes; but the +hair and nails were in their original state, and still adhered firmly; +and the several joints were quite pliable, or in that kind of relaxed +state which happens to persons who faint suddenly. Such were Mr +Anderson's remarks to me, who also told me, that on his enquiring into +the method of effecting this preservation of their dead bodies, he had +been informed, that, soon after their death, they are disembowlled, +by drawing the intestines, and other _viscera_, out at the _anus_; +and the whole cavity is then filled or stuffed with cloth, introduced +through the same part; that when any moisture appeared on the skin, it +was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterward rubbed all over with +a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut oil; which, being frequently +repeated, preserved them a great many months; but that, at last, they +gradually moulder away. This was the information Mr Anderson received; +for my own part, I could not learn any more about their mode of +operation than what Omai told me, who said, that they made use of the +juice of a plant which grows amongst the mountains, of cocoa-nut oil, +and of frequent washing with sea-water. I was also told, that the +bodies of all their great men, who die a natural death, are preserved +in this manner; and that they expose them to public view for a very +considerable time after. At first, they are laid out every day, when +it does not rain; afterward, the intervals become greater and greater; +and, at last, they are seldom to be seen.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The method of embalming, above described, is very +different from that practised among the Egyptians and other ancient +people. For an account of the latter, the reader may turn to Beloe's +Herodotus, vol. i. where observations are collected from several +authors.--E.] + +In the evening we returned from Oparre, where we left Otoo, and all +the royal family; and I saw none of them till the 12th; when all, but +the chief himself, paid me a visit. He, as they told me, was gone to +Attahooroo, to assist, this day, at another human sacrifice, which the +chief of Tiaraboo had sent thither to be offered up at the _morai_. +This second instance, within the course of a few days, was +too melancholy a proof how numerous the victims of this bloody +superstition are amongst this humane people. I would have been present +at this sacrifice too, had I known of it in time; for now it was too +late. From the very same cause, I missed being present at a public +transaction, which had passed at Oparre the preceding day, when Otoo, +with all the solemnities observed on such occasions, restored to +the friends and followers of the late king Tootaha, the lands and +possessions which had been withheld from them, ever since his death. +Probably, the new sacrifice was the concluding ceremony of what may be +called the reversal of attainder. + +The following evening, Otoo returned from exercising this most +disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign; and the next day, being +now honoured with his company, Captain Clerke and I, mounted on +horseback, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very great +surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, +gazing upon us with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs. +Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this, attempted to get on +horseback; but he had as often been thrown off, before he could +contrive to seat himself; so that this was the first time they had +seen any body ride a horse. What Captain Clerke and I began, was, +after this, repeated every day, while we staid, by one or another +of our people. And yet the curiosity of the natives continued still +unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these animals, after +they had seen the use that was made of them; and, as far as I could +judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness of other +nations, than all the other novelties put together that their European +visitors had carried amongst them. Both the horse and mare were in +good case, and looked extremely well. + +The next day, Etary, or Olla, the god of Bolabola, who had, for +several days past, been in the neighbourhood of Matavai, removed to +Oparre, attended by several sailing canoes. We were told that Otoo did +not approve of his being so near our station, where his people could +more easily invade our property. I must do Otoo the justice to say, +that he took every method prudence could suggest to prevent thefts and +robberies; and it was more owing to his regulations, than to our own +circumspection, that so few were committed. He had taken care to erect +a little house or two, on the other side of the river, behind our +post; and two others, close to our tents, on the bank between +the river and the sea. In all these places some of his own people +constantly kept watch; and his father generally resided on Matavai +point; so that we were, in a manner, surrounded by them. Thus +stationed, they not only guarded us in the night from thieves, but +could observe every thing that passed in the day; and were ready to +collect contributions from such girls as had private connections +with our people; which was generally done every morning. So that the +measures adopted by him to secure our safety, at the same time served +the more essential purpose of enlarging his own profits. + +Otoo informing me that his presence was necessary at Oparre, where he +was to give audience to the great personage from Bolabola; and asking +me to accompany him, I readily consented, in hopes of meeting with +something worth our notice. Accordingly I went with him, in the +morning of the 16th, attended by Mr Anderson. Nothing, however, +occurred on this occasion that was either interesting or curious. +We saw Etary and his followers present some coarse cloth and hogs to +Otoo; and each article was delivered with some ceremony, and a set +speech. After this, they, and some other chiefs, held a consultation +about the expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at first, seemed to disapprove +of it; but, at last, his objections were over-ruled. Indeed, it +appeared next day, that it was too late to deliberate about this +measure; and that Towha, Potatou, and another chief, had already gone +upon the expedition with the fleet of Attahooroo. For a messenger +arrived in the evening, with intelligence that they had reached +Eimeo, and that there had been some skirmishes, without much loss or +advantage on either side. + +In the morning of the 18th, Mr Anderson, myself, and Omai, went again +with Otoo to Oparre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to +leave upon the island, consisting of an English ram and ewe, and three +Cape ewes, all of which I gave to Otoo. As all the three cows had +taken the bull, I thought I might venture to divide them, and carry +some to Ulieta. With this view, I had them brought before us; and +proposed to Etary, that if he would leave his bull with Otoo, he +should have mine, and one of the three cows; adding, that I would +carry them for him to Ulieta; for I was afraid to remove the Spanish +bull, lest some accident should happen to him, as he was a bulky, +spirited beast. To this proposal of mine, Etary, at first, made some +objections; but, at last, agreed to it; partly through the persuasion +of Omai. However, just as the cattle were putting into the boat, one +of Etary's followers valiantly opposed any exchange whatever being +made. Finding this, and suspecting that Etary had only consented to +the proposed arrangement, for the present moment, to please me; and +that, after I was gone, he might take away his bull, and then Otoo +would not have one, I thought it best to drop the idea of an exchange, +as it could not be made with the mutual consent of both parties; and +finally determined to leave them all with Otoo, strictly enjoining him +never to suffer them to be removed from Oparre, not even the Spanish +bull, nor any of the sheep, till he should get a stock of young +ones; which he might then dispose of to his friends, and send to the +neighbouring islands. + +This being settled, we left Etary and his party to ruminate upon their +folly, and attended Otoo to another place hard by, where we found the +servants of a chief, whose name I forgot to ask, waiting with a hog, a +pig, and a dog, as a present from their master to the sovereign. These +were delivered with the usual ceremonies, and with an harangue in +form, in which the speaker, in his master's name, enquired after +the health of Otoo, and of all the principal people about him. +This compliment was echoed back in the name of Otoo, by one of his +ministers; and then the dispute with Eimeo was discussed, with many +arguments for and against it. The deputies of this chief were for +prosecuting the war with vigour, and advised Otoo to offer a human +sacrifice. On the other hand, a chief, who was in constant attendance +on Otoo's person, opposed it, seemingly with great strength of +argument. This confirmed me in the opinion, that Otoo himself never +entered heartily into the spirit of this war. He now received +repeated messages from Towha, strongly soliciting him to hasten to his +assistance. We were told, that his fleet was, in a manner, surrounded +by that of Maheine; but that neither the one nor the other durst +hazard an engagement. + +After dining with Otoo, we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. +This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with +fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached +himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, between nine and ten +o'clock in the evening, with a large supply for both ships. This +marked his humane attention more strongly than any thing he had +hitherto done for us. The next day, all the royal family came with +presents; so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more +provisions than we could consume. + +Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulked, the +rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began to think of +leaving the island, that I might have sufficient time to spare for +visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view, we removed +from the shore our observatories and instruments, and bent the sails. +Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to acquaint me, that all +the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other districts adjoining, +were going to Oparre to join those belonging to that part of the +island; and that there would be a general review there. Soon after, +the squadron of Matavai was all in motion; and, after parading awhile +about the bay, assembled ashore, near the middle of it. I now went in +my boat to take a view of them. + +Of those with stages, on which they fight, or what they call their +war-canoes, there were about sixty, with near as many more of a +smaller size. I was ready to have attended them to Oparre; but, soon +after, a resolution was taken by the chiefs, that they should not move +till the next day. I looked upon this to be a fortunate delay, as it +afforded me a good opportunity to get some insight into their manner +of fighting. With this view, I expressed my wish to Otoo, that he +would order some of them to go through the necessary manoeuvres. Two +were accordingly ordered out into the bay; in one of which, Otoo, Mr +King, and myself, embarked; and Omai went on board the other. When we +had got sufficient sea-room, we faced, and advanced upon each other, +and retreated by turns, as quick as our rowers could paddle. During +this, the warriors on the stages flourished their weapons, and +played a hundred antic tricks, which could answer no other end, in +my judgment, than to work up their passions, and prepare them for +fighting. Otoo stood by the side of our stage, and gave the necessary +orders, when to advance, and when to retreat. In this, great judgment +and a quick eye, combined together seemed requisite, to seize every +advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving any advantage to the +adversary. At last, after advancing and retreating to and from each +other, at least a dozen of times, the two canoes closed, head to head, +or stage to stage; and, after a short conflict, the troops on our +stage were supposed to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai +and his associates. At that very instant, Otoo, and all our paddlers +leaped over-board, as if reduced to the necessity of endeavouring to +save their lives by swimming. + +If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval engagements +are not always conducted in this manner. He told me, that they +sometimes begin with lashing the two vessels together, head to head, +and then fight till all the warriors are killed, on one side or the +other. But this close combat, I apprehend, is never practised, but +when they are determined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other +must happen; for all agree that they never give quarter, unless it be +to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next day. + +The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in their navies. +I never heard of a general engagement on land; and all their decisive +battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of conflict are +fixed upon by both parties, the preceding day and night are spent in +diversions and feasting. Toward morning, they launch the canoes, put +every thing in order, and, with the day, begin the battle; the fate of +which generally decides the dispute. The vanquished save themselves +by a precipitate flight; and such as reach the shore, fly with their +friends to the mountains; for the victors, while their fury lasts, +spare neither the aged, nor women, nor children. The next day, they +assemble at the _morai_, to return thanks to the _Eatooa_ for the +victory, and to offer up the slain as sacrifices, and the prisoners +also, if they have any. After this a treaty is set on foot; and the +conquerors, for the most part, obtain their own terms; by which, +particular districts of land, and sometimes whole islands, change +their owners. Omai told us, that he was once taken a prisoner by the +men of Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he and some others +would have been put to death the next day, if they had not found means +to escape in the night. + +As soon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his suit of armour, +mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and was paddled all along the +shore of the bay; so that every one had a full view of him. His coat +of mail did not draw the attention of his countrymen so much as +might have been expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of it +before; and there were others, again, who had taken such a dislike to +Omai, from his imprudent conduct at this place, that they would hardly +look at any thing, however singular, that was exhibited by him. + + +SECTION IV. + +_The Day of Sailing fixed.--Peace made with Eimeo.--Debates about it, +and Otoo's Conduct blamed.--A Solemnity at the Morai on the Occasion, +described by Mr King.--Observations upon it.--Instance of Otoo's +Art.--Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his Behaviour.--Otoo's +Present, and Message to the King of Great Britain.--Reflections on +our Manner of Traffic, and on the good Treatment we met with at +Otaheite.--Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards.--Their Fictions +to depreciate the English.--Wishes expressed that no Settlement may be +made.--Omai's Jealousy of another Traveller._ + +Early in the morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father came on board, to +know when I proposed sailing. For, having been informed that there +was a good harbour at Eimeo, I had told them that I should visit +that island on my way to Huaheine; and they were desirous of taking a +passage with me, and of their fleet sailing, at the time, to reinforce +Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name +the day; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to +take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in short, the whole +family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately +for Oparre, where all the fleet, fitted out for the expedition, was to +assemble this day, and to be reviewed. + +I had but just time to get into my boat, when news was brought, that +Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned with +his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further +proceedings, in the military way, quite unnecessary; and the +war-canoes, instead of rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to +their respective districts. This alteration, however, did not hinder +me from following Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr King and Omai. +Soon after our arrival, and while dinner was preparing, a messenger +arrived from Eimeo, and related the conditions of the peace, or +rather of the truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms were +disadvantageous to Otaheite; and much blame was thrown upon Otoo, +whose delay, in sending reinforcements, had obliged Towha to submit +to a disgraceful accommodation. It was even currently reported, that +Towha, resenting his not being supported, had declared, that, as soon +as I should leave the island, he would join his forces to those of +Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo at Matavai, or Oparre. This called upon +me to declare, in the most public manner, that I was determined to +espouse the interest of my friend against any such combination; and +that whoever presumed to attack him, should feel the weight of +my heavy displeasure, when I returned again to their island. My +declaration, probably, had the desired effect; and, if Towha had any +such hostile intention at first, we soon heard no more of the report. +Whappai, Otoo's father, highly disapproved of the peace, and blamed +Towha very much for concluding it. This sensible old man wisely +judged, that my going down with them to Eimeo must have been of +singular service to their cause, though I should take no other part +whatever in the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built all his +arguments, and maintained, that Otoo had acted properly by waiting for +me; though this had prevented his giving assistance to Towha so soon +as he expected. + +Our debates at Oparre, on this subject, were hardly ended, before a +messenger arrived from Towha, desiring Otoo's attendance, the next +day, at the _morai_ in Attahooroo, to give thanks to the gods for the +peace he had concluded; at least, such was Omai's account to me of +the object of this solemnity. I was asked to go; but being much out of +order, was obliged to decline it. Desirous, however, of knowing what +ceremonies might be observed on so memorable an occasion, I sent +Mr King and Omai, and returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's +mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first, I thought +that this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other +view than to get a passage to Matavai. But when we arrived at the +ship, they told me, they intended passing the night on board, for the +express purpose of undertaking the cure of the disorder I complained +of; which was a pain of the rheumatic kind, extending from the hip +to the foot. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them +upon the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. I +was desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then, as many of them as +could get round me, began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to +foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, +till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In +short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, +I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave +me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another +rubbing-down before I went to bed; and it was so effectual, that I +found myself pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians +repeated their prescription the next morning, before they went ashore, +and again, in the evening, when they returned on board; after which, +I found the pains entirely removed; and the cure being perfected, they +took their leave of me the following morning. This they call _romee_; +an operation which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh brush, or any +thing of the kind that we make use of externally. It is universally +practised amongst these islanders; being sometimes performed by the +men, but more generally by the women. If, at any time, one appears +languid and tired, and sits down by any of them, they immediately +begin to practise the _romee_ upon his legs; and I have always found +it to have an exceedingly good effect.[1] + +[Footnote 1: See Captain Wallis's account of the same operation +performed on himself, and his first lieutenant, in this Collection, +vol. xii. p. 197.] + +In the morning of the 25th, Otoo, Mr King, and Omai, returned from +Attahooroo; and Mr King gave me the following account of what he had +seen: + +"Soon after you left me, a second messenger came from Towha to Otoo, +with a plantain-tree. It was sun-set when we embarked in a canoe +and left Oparre. About nine o'clock we landed at Tettaha, at that +extremity which joins to Attahooroo. Before we landed, the people +called to us from the shore; probably, to tell us that Towha was +there. The meeting of Otoo and this chief, I expected, would afford +some incident worthy of observation. Otoo, and his attendants, went +and seated themselves on the beach, close to the canoe in which Towha +was. He was then asleep; but his servants having awakened him, and +mentioning Otoo's name, immediately a plantain-tree and a dog were +laid at Otoo's feet; and many of Towha's people came and talked with +him, as I conceived, about their expedition to Eimeo. After I had, for +some time, remained seated close to Otoo, Towha neither stirring from +his canoe, nor holding any conversation with us, I went to him. He +asked me if _Toote_ was angry with him. I answered, No: that he was +his _taio_; and that he had ordered me to go to Attahooroo to tell +him so. Omai now had a long conversation with this chief; but I could +gather no information of any kind from him. On my returning to +Otoo, he seemed desirous that I should go to eat, and then to sleep. +Accordingly, Omai and I left him. On questioning Omai, he said, the +reason of Towha's not stirring from his canoe, was his being lame; but +that, presently, Otoo and he would converse together in private. This +seemed true; for in a little time, those we left with Otoo came to us; +and, about ten minutes after, Otoo himself arrived, and we all went to +sleep in his canoe. + +"The next morning, the _ava_ was in great plenty. One man drank so +much that he lost his senses. I should have supposed him to be in a +fit, from the convulsions that agitated him. Two men held him, and +kept plucking off his hair by the roots. I left this spectacle to see +another that was more affecting. This was the meeting of Towha and his +wife, and a young girl, whom I understood to be his daughter. After +the ceremony of cutting their heads, and discharging a tolerable +quantity of blood and tears, they washed, embraced the chief, and +seemed unconcerned. But the young girl's sufferings were not yet come +to an end. Terridiri[2] arrived; and she went, with great composure, +to repeat the same ceremonies to him, which she had just performed on +meeting her father. Towha had brought a large war-canoe from Eimeo. I +enquired if he had killed the people belonging to her; and was told, +that there was no man in her when she was captured. + +[Footnote 2: Terridiri was Oberea's son. See an account of the royal +family of Otaheite, in this Collection, vol. xii. p. 482.] + +"We left Tettaha about ten or eleven o'clock, and landed close to +the _morai_ of Attahooroo a little after noon. There lay three canoes +hauled upon the beach, opposite the _morai_, with three hogs exposed +in each: their sheds, or awnings, had something under them which I +could not discern. We expected the solemnity to be performed the same +afternoon; but as neither Towha nor Potatou had joined us, nothing was +done. + +"A chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a plantain-tree, and +placed them at Otoo's feet. They talked some time together; and the +Eimeo chief often repeating the words, _Warry, warry_, 'false,' I +supposed that Otoo was relating to him what he had heard, and that the +other denied it. + +"The next day (Wednesday) Towha and Potatou, with about eight large +canoes, arrived, and landed near the _morai_. Many plantain-trees were +brought, on the part of different chiefs to Otoo. Towha did not stir +from his canoe. The ceremony began by the principal priest bringing +out the _maro_ wrapped up, and a bundle shaped like a large +sugar-loaf. These were placed at the head of what I understood to be a +grave. Then three priests came, and sat down opposite, that is, at the +other end of the grave; bringing with them a plantain-tree, the branch +of some other tree, and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut +tree. + +"The priests, with these things in their hands, separately repeated +sentences; and, at intervals, two, and sometime all three, sung a +melancholy ditty, little attended to by the people. This praying +and singing continued for an hour. Then, after a short prayer, the +principal priest uncovered the _maro_; and Otoo rose up, and wrapped +it about him, holding, at the same time, in his hand, a cap or bonnet, +composed of the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird, mixed +with other feathers of a dark colour. He stood in the middle space, +facing the three priests, who continued their prayers for about ten +minutes; when a man, starting from the crowd, said something which +ended with the word _heiva!_ and the crowd echoed back to him, three +times, _Earee!_ This, as I had been told before, was the principal +part of the solemnity. + +"The company now moved to the opposite side of the great pile of +stones, where is, what they call, the king's _morai_, which is not +unlike a large grave. Here the same ceremony was performed over +again, and ended in three cheers. The _maro_ was now wrapped up, and +increased in its splendour by the addition of a small piece of red +feathers, which one of the priests gave Otoo when he had it on, and +which he stuck into it. + +"From this place, the people went to a large hut, close by the +_morai_, where they seated themselves in much greater order than is +usual among them. A man of Tiaraboo then made an oration, which lasted +about ten minutes. He was followed by an Attahooroo man; afterward +Potatou spoke with much greater fluency and grace than any of them; +for, in general, they spoke in short broken sentences, with a motion +of the hand that was rather awkward. Tooteo, Otoo's orator, spoke +next; and, after him, a man from Eimeo. Two or three more speeches +were made; but not much attended to. Omai told me, that the speeches +declared, that they should not fight, but all be friends. As many of +the speakers expressed themselves with warmth, possibly there were +some recriminations and protestations of their good intentions. In +the midst of their speaking, a man of Attahooroo got up, with a sling +fastened to his waist, and a large stone placed upon his shoulder. +After parading near a quarter of an hour, in the open space, repeating +something in a singing tone, he threw the stone down. This stone, +and a plantain-tree that lay at Otoo's feet, were, after the speeches +ended, carried to the _morai_: and one of the priests, and Otoo with +him, said something upon the occasion. + +"On our return to Oparre, the sea-breeze having set in, we were +obliged to land; and had a pleasant walk through almost the whole +extent of Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two bundles of dried leaves +suspended upon it, marked the boundary of the two districts. The man +who had performed the ceremony of the stone and sling came with us. +With him, Otoo's father had a long conversation. He seemed very angry. +I understood, he was enraged at the part Towha had taken in the Eimeo +business." + +From what I can judge of this solemnity, as thus described by Mr King, +it had not been wholly a thanksgiving, as Omai told us, but rather a +confirmation of the treaty, or perhaps both. The grave, which Mr King +speaks of, seems to be the very spot where the celebration of the +rites began, when the human sacrifice, at which I was present, was +offered, and before which the victim was laid, after being removed +from the sea side. It is at this part of the _morai_ also that they +first invest their kings with the _maro_. Omai, who had been present +when Otoo was made king, described to me the whole ceremony, when we +were here; and I find it to be almost the same as this that Mr King +has now described, though we understood it to be upon a very different +occasion. The plantain-tree, so often mentioned, is always the first +thing introduced, not only in all their religious ceremonies, but in +all their debates, whether of a public or private nature. It is also +used on other occasions; perhaps many more than we know of. While +Towha was at Eimeo, one or more messengers came from him to Otoo every +day. The messenger always came with a young plantain-tree in his hand, +which he laid down at Otoo's feet, before he spoke a word; then seated +himself before him, and related what he was charged with. I have seen +two men in such high dispute that I expected they would proceed to +blows; yet, on one laying a plantain-tree before the other, they +have both become cool, and carried on the argument without farther +animosity. In short, it is, upon all occasions, the olive-branch of +these people. + +The war with Eimeo, and the solemn rites which were the consequence of +it, being thus finally closed, all our friends paid us a visit on +the 26th; and, as they knew that we were upon the point of sailing, +brought with them more hogs than we could take off their hands. For, +having no salt left, to preserve any, we wanted no more than for +present use. + +The next day, I accompanied Otoo to Oparre; and, before I left it, I +looked at the cattle and poultry, which I had consigned to my friend's +care at that place. Every thing was in a promising way, and properly +attended to. Two of the geese, and two of the ducks were sitting; but +the pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from Otoo four +goats; two of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, where none had as +yet been introduced; and the other two I proposed to reserve for the +use of any other islands I might meet with in my passage to the north. + +A circumstance which I shall now mention of Otoo will shew that these +people are capable of much address and art to gain their purposes. +Amongst other things which, at different times, I had given to this +chief, was a spying-glass. After having it in his possession two or +three days, tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no use to +him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him that, as +he had been his very good friend, he had got a present for him which +he knew would be agreeable. "But," says Otoo, "you must not let +_Toote_ know it, because he wants it, and I would not let him have +it." He then put the glass into Captain Clerke's hands; at the same +time assuring him that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke, at +first, declined accepting it; but Otoo insisted upon it, and left it +with him. Some days after, he put Captain Clerke in mind of the glass, +who, though he did not want it, was yet desirous of obliging Otoo; +and, thinking that a few axes would be of more use at this island, +produced four to give him in return. Otoo no sooner saw this, than he +said, "_Toote_ offered me five for it." "Well," says Captain Clerke, +"if that be the case, your friendship for me shall not make you a +loser, and you shall have six axes." These he accepted; but desired +again, that I might not be told what he had done. + +Our friend Omai got one good thing, at this island, for the many +good things he gave away. This was a very fine double-sailing canoe, +completely equipped, and fit for the sea. Some time before, I had +made up for him a suit of English colours; but he thought these too +valuable to be used at this time; and patched up a parcel of colours, +such as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which +he spread on different parts of his vessel, all at the same time; and +drew together as many people to look at her, as a man of war would, +dressed, in an European port. These streamers of Omai were a mixture +of English, French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European +colours that he had seen. When I was last at this island, I gave to +Otoo an English jack and pendant, and to Towha a pendant, which I now +found they had preserved with the greatest care. + +Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of cloth and +cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better +at Otaheite, than at any of the Society Islands, insomuch that they +are articles of trade. Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, +and so much unlike himself, as he did in many instances, but for his +sister and brother-in-law, who, together with a few more of their +acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other +view than to strip him of every thing he had got. And they would, +undoubtedly, have succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop +to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into +my possession. But even this would not have saved Omai from ruin, if +I had suffered these relations of his to have gone with, or to have +followed us to, his intended place of settlement, Huaheine. This they +had intended; but I disappointed their farther views of plunder, by +forbidding them to shew themselves in that island, while I remained in +the neighbourhood; and they knew me too well not to comply. + +On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me that be had got a +canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home, as a +present from him to the _Earee rahie no Pretane_; it being the only +thing, he said, that he could send worth his majesty's acceptance. I +was not a little pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude. +It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the +least hint about it; and it shewed, that he fully understood to whom +he was indebted for the most valuable presents that he had received. +At first, I thought that this canoe had been a model of one of their +vessels of war; but I soon found that it was a small _evaa_, about +sixteen feet long. It was double, and seemed to have been built for +the purpose; and was decorated with all those pieces of carved work +which they usually fix upon their canoes. As it was too large for me +to take on board, I could only thank him for his good intention; but +it would have pleased him much better if his present could have been +accepted. + +We were detained here some days longer than I expected, by light +breezes from the west, and calms by turns; so that we could not get +out of the bay. During this time, the ships were crowded with our +friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes; for not one would +leave the place till we were gone. At length, at three o'clock in the +afternoon of the 29th, the wind came at east, and we weighed anchor. + +As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of Otoo, and to +gratify the curiosity of his people, I fired seven guns, loaded with +shot; after which, all our friends, except him, and two or three more, +left us with such marks of affection and grief, as sufficiently shewed +how much they regretted our departure. Otoo being desirous of seeing +the ship sail, I made a stretch out to sea, and then in again; when be +also bid us farewell, and went ashore in his canoe. + +The frequent visits we had lately paid to this island, seem to +have created a full persuasion, that the intercourse will not be +discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo, to request, in +his name, the _Earee rahie no Pretane_ to send him, by the next ships, +red feathers, and the birds that produce them; axes; half a dozen +muskets, with powder and shot; and by no means to forget horses. + +I have occasionally mentioned my receiving considerable presents from +Otoo, and the rest of the family, without specifying what returns I +made. It is customary for these people, when they make a present, to +let us know what they expect in return; and we find it necessary to +gratify them; so that, what we get by way of present, comes dearer +than what we get by barter. But, as we were sometimes pressed by +occasional scarcity, we could have recourse to our friends for a +present, or supply, when we could not get our wants relieved by any +other method; and, therefore, upon the whole, this way of traffic was +full as advantageous to us as to the natives. For the most part, +I paid for each separate article as I received it, except in my +intercourse with Otoo. His presents generally came so fast upon me, +that no account was kept between us. Whatever he asked for, that I +could spare, he had whenever he asked for it; and I always found him +moderate in his demands. + +If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself at Otaheite, +I should not have left it so soon as I did. For there was not a +probability of our being better or cheaper supplied with refreshments +at any other place than we continued to be here, even at the time +of our leaving it. Besides, such a cordial friendship and confidence +subsisted between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected +any where else; and it was a little extraordinary, that this friendly +intercourse had never once been suspended by any untoward accident; +nor had there been a theft committed that deserves to be mentioned. +Not that I believe their morals, in this respect, to be much mended, +but am rather of opinion that their regularity of conduct was owing to +the fear the chiefs were under, of interrupting a traffic which +they might consider as the means of securing to themselves a more +considerable share of our commodities, than could have been got +by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this point I settled at the first +interview with their chiefs, after my arrival. For, observing the +great plenty that was in the island, and the eagerness of the natives +to possess our various articles of trade, I resolved to make the most +of these two favourable circumstances, and explained myself, in the +most decisive terms, that I would not suffer them to rob us, as they +had done upon many former occasions. In this, Omai was of great use, +as I instructed him to point out to them the good consequences of +their honest conduct, and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to +suffer by deviating from it. + +It is not always in the power of the chiefs to prevent robberies; they +are frequently robbed themselves, and complain of it as a great evil. +Otoo left the most valuable things he had from me in my possession, +till the day before we sailed; and the reason he gave for it was, that +they were no where so safe. Since the bringing in of new riches, the +inducements to pilfering must have increased. The chiefs, sensible of +this, are now extremely desirous of chests. They seemed to set much +value upon a few that the Spaniards had left amongst them; and they +were continually asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the +dimensions of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet +in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts +were not a sufficient security; but it must be large enough for two +people to sleep upon, by way of guarding it in the night. + +It will appear a little extraordinary that we, who had a smattering of +their language, and Omai, besides, for an interpreter, could never +get any clear account of the time when the Spaniards arrived, how long +they stayed, and when they departed. The more we enquired into this +matter, the more we were convinced of the inability of most of these +people to remember, or note the time, when past events happened; +especially if it exceeded ten or twenty months. It however appeared, +by the date of the inscription upon the cross, and by the information +we received from the most intelligent of the natives, that two ships +arrived at Oheitepeha in 1774, soon after I left Matavai, which was +in May, the same year. They brought with them the house and live-stock +before mentioned. Some said that, after landing these things, and some +men, they sailed in quest of me, and returned in about ten days. But +I have some doubt of the truth of this, as they were never seen either +at Huaheine, or at Ulietea. The live-stock they left here consisted +of one bull, some goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of some other +animal, which we afterward found to be a ram, and, at this time, was +at Bolabola, whither the bull was also to have been transported. + +The hogs are of a large kind; have already greatly improved the breed +originally found by us upon the island; and, at the time of our late +arrival, were very numerous. Goats are also in tolerable plenty, there +being hardly a chief of any note who has not got some. As to the dogs +that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three sorts, I +think they would have done the island a great deal more service if +they had hanged them all, instead of leaving them upon it. It was to +one of them that my young ram fell a victim. + +When these ships left the island, four Spaniards remained behind. Two +were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself very popular +among the natives, who distinguish him by the name of Mateema. He +seems to have been a person who had studied their language; or, at +least, to have spoken it so as to be understood; and to have taken +uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most +exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them +think meanly of the English. He even went so far as to assure them, +that we no longer existed as an independent nation; that _Pretane_ +was only a small island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely +destroyed; and, for me, that they had met with me at sea, and, with a +few shot, had sent my ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom; +so that my visiting Otaheite, at this time, was, of course, very +unexpected. All this, and many other improbable falsehoods, did this +Spaniard make these people believe. If Spain had no other views, in +this expedition, but to depreciate the English, they had better have +kept their ships at home; for my returning again to Otaheite was +considered as a complete confutation of all that Mateema had said. + +With what design the priests stayed, we can only guess. If it was to +convert the natives to the catholic faith, they have not succeeded in +any one instance. But it does not appear that they ever attempted +it; for, if the natives are to be believed, they never conversed with +them, either on this, or on any other subject. The priests resided +constantly in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, +visiting most parts of the island. At length, after he and his +companions had stayed ten months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took +them on board, and sailed again in five days. This hasty departure +shews that, whatever design the Spaniards might have had upon this +island, they had now laid it aside. And yet, as I was informed by +Otoo, and many others, before they went away, they would have the +natives believe that they still meant to return, and to bring with +them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and women who were to +settle, live, and die on the island. Otoo, when he told me this, +added, that if the Spaniards should return, he would not let them come +to Matavai Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the +idea pleased him; little thinking that the completion of it would, at +once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their liberties. +This shews with what facility a settlement might be made at Otaheite, +which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will never +happen. Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have benefitted +its inhabitants; but a permanent establishment amongst them, +conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have +unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament that +our ships had ever found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely that +any measure of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it +can neither serve the purposes of public ambition, nor of private +avarice; and, without such inducements, I may pronounce that it will +never be undertaken.[3] + +[Footnote 3: We may have occasion hereafter to make mention of several +subsequent visits to this island, on the part of our countrymen. It +is evident, that Captain Cook was far from being well pleased with the +consequences which had already resulted to its inhabitants from their +intercourse with Europeans. Unfortunately, it is impracticable to give +a more agreeable picture of the condition of the island as influenced +by future visits. Cook's solicitude, in behalf of these people, is +extremely commendable, and it is to this we must ascribe his opinion +of the impolicy of attempting settlements amongst them. Is it +wonderful, that to a man of his humanity and discernment, any other +effect should seem likely to proceed from the undertaking, than what +would augment his concern that ever Otaheite felt the necessity +of being obliged to his countrymen? One motive alone, perhaps, not +contemplated by him in reasoning on the purposes which might induce to +such an attempt, gave some promise of compensating for former evils, +without being likely to entail others, which would still leave the +balance of good and bad consequences a subject of regret. We allude +to the _intentions_ of the missionaries, who projected a settlement on +the island in 1796, &c. But the friends of humanity have not hitherto +had cause to rejoice at the amount of the new benefits conferred. The +advocates for such labours, indeed, require to arm themselves with +patience, unless they can satisfy themselves with the conviction of +having _willed_ a good work. Besides, even they ought to anticipate +the certainty, that, were their intentions realized, intruders of very +different principles, and with very different motives, would speedily +mar the fruits of their benevolence. Such reflections, it may be said, +are discouraging. What opinion, then, ought we to entertain of the +wisdom of labours, which had been undertaken without a full view of +obvious causes threatening their ultimate failure? It would little +alleviate the mortification of disappointment, to exclaim, as is often +done on such occasions, "Who could have thought it?" But the most +enlightened judges of such undertakings, will not only advert to the +probable occurrence of such mischief, but also be well aware of the +existence of _other untoward circumstances_, extremely well +calculated to render any fears of subsequent deterioration altogether +superfluous!--E.] + +I have already mentioned the visit that I had from one of the two +natives of this island, who had been carried by the Spaniards to +Lima. I never saw him afterward, which I rather wondered at, as I had +received him with uncommon civility. I believe, however, that Omai +had kept him at a distance from me, by some rough usage; jealous that +there should be another traveller upon the island who might vie with +himself. Our touching at Teneriffe was a fortunate circumstance for +Omai; as he prided himself in having visited a place belonging to +Spain as well as this man. I did not meet with the other, who had +returned from Lima; but Captain Clerke, who had seen him, spoke of +him as a low fellow, and as a little out of his senses. His own +countrymen, I found, agreed in the same account of him. In short, +these two adventurers seemed to be held in no esteem. They had +not, indeed, been so fortunate as to return home with such valuable +acquisitions of property as we had bestowed upon Omai; and, with the +advantages he reaped from his voyage to England, it must be his own +fault if he should sink into the same state of insignificance. + + +SECTION V. + +_Arrival at Eimeo.--Two Harbours there, and an Account of them.--Visit +from Maheine, Chief of the Island.--His Person described.--A Goat +stolen, and sent back with the Thief.--Another Goat stolen, and +secreted.--Measures taken on the Occasion.--Expedition cross the +Island.--Houses and Canoes burnt.--The Goat delivered up, and Peace +restored. Some Account of the Island, &c._ + +As I did not give up my design of touching at Eimeo, at day-break, in +the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for the north +end of the island; the harbour which I wished to examine being at that +part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, +had taken some necessary measures to shew us the place. However, we +were not without pilots, having several men of Otaheite on board, and +not a few women. Not caring to trust entirely to these guides, I sent +two boats to examine the harbour; and, on their making the signal for +safe anchorage, we stood in with the ships, and anchored close up to +the head of the inlet, in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of soft +mud, and moored with a hawser fast to the shore. + +This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side +of the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It runs +in south, or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For +security and goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour +that I have met with at any of the islands in this ocean; and it has +this advantage over most of them, that a ship can sail in and out, +with the reigning trade wind; so that the access and recess are +equally easy. There are several rivulets that fall into it. The one, +at the head, is so considerable as to admit boats to go a quarter of +a mile up, where we found the water perfectly fresh. Its banks are +covered with the _pooroo_ tree, as it is called by the natives, which +makes good firing, and which they set no value upon; so that wood and +water are to be got here with great facility. + +On the same side of the island, and about two miles to the eastward, +is the harbour of Parowroah, much larger within than that of Taloo; +but the entrance, or opening in the reef (for the whole island is +surrounded by a reef of coral rock) is considerably narrower, and lies +to leeward of the harbour. These two defects are so striking, that the +harbour of Taloo must always have a decided preference, It is a little +extraordinary, that I should have been three times at Otaheite before, +and have once sent a boat to Eimeo, and yet not know till now that +there was a harbour in it. On the contrary, I always understood there +was not. Whereas, there are not only the two above mentioned, but one +or two more on the south side of the island. But these last are not so +considerable as the two we have just described. + +We had no sooner anchored, than the ships were crowded with the +inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board; for they had +nothing with them for the purposes of barter. But, the next morning, +this deficiency was supplied; several canoes then arriving from more +distant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, +cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, +and beads; for red feathers were not so much sought after here as at +Otaheite. The ship being a good deal pestered with rats, I hauled her +within thirty yards of the shore, as near as the depth of water would +allow, and made a path for them to get to the land, by fastening +hawsers to the trees. It is said, that this experiment has sometimes +succeeded; but, I believe, we got clear of very few, if any, of the +numerous tribe that haunted us.[1] + +[Footnote 1: A French traveller in Greece, it is believed Sonnini, +makes mention of such an artifice having been used with success by a +vessel that put into one of the islands he visited; but in this case +the transference was made, not into the island, but into another +vessel, containing apples, of which rats are known to be exceedingly +fond. A hawser was secretly fastened to the latter, so as to form a +communication betwixt the two vessels. On the following morning, it is +said, not a rat was found in the one which originally contained them, +the whole having gone over during the night to the other. So much for +the efficacy of the stratagem. The reader will be at no loss to +decide as to the morality of having recourse to it. Mr Bingley relates +another method of getting rid of these vermin, which seems to be +abundantly serviceable, and which certainly has honesty in its favour. +The Valiant man of war, on its return from the Havannah, was so +shockingly infested with them, that they destroyed a hundred weight of +biscuit daily. The ship was smoked between decks in order to suffocate +them, which had the desired effect. In proof of this, he says, +that six hampers were for some time filled every day with the dead +animals.--E.] + +In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the island, paid me a +visit. He approached the ship with great caution, and it required +some persuasion to get him on board. Probably, he was under some +apprehensions of mischief from us, as friends of the Otaheitans; these +people not being able to comprehend how we can be friends with +any one, without adopting, at the same time, his cause against his +enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who, as I was informed, +is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite, of whose death we had an account while +we were at this island. I made presents to both of them of such things +as they seemed to set the highest value upon; and, after a stay of +about half-an-hour, they went away. Not long after, they returned with +a large hog, which they meant as a return to my present; but I made +them another present to the full value of it. After this they paid a +visit to Captain Clerke. + +This chief who, with a few followers, has made himself, in a manner, +independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is +bald-headed, which is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands +at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to shew his +head. But whether they themselves considered this deficiency of hair +as a mark of disgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our +considering it as such, I cannot say. We judged that the latter +supposition was the truth, from this circumstance, that they had seen +us shave the head of one of their people whom we had caught stealing. +They therefore concluded, that this was the punishment usually +inflicted by us upon all thieves; and one or two of our gentlemen, +whose heads were not overburthened with hair, we could observe, lay +under violent suspicions of being _tetos_. + +In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback, and took a ride along +the shore to the eastward. Our train was not very numerous, as Omai +had forbid the natives to follow us; and many complied; the fear +of giving offence getting the better of their curiosity. Towha had +stationed his fleet in this harbour; and though the war lasted but a +few days, the marks of its devastation were every where to be seen. +The trees were stripped of their fruit; and all the houses in the +neighbourhood had been pulled down or burnt. + +Having employed two or three days in getting up all our spirit casks +to tar their heads, which we found necessary, to save them from the +efforts of a small insect to destroy them, we hauled the ship off into +the stream, on the 6th, n the morning, intending to put to sea the +next day; but an accident happened that prevented it, and gave me a +good deal of trouble. We had sent our goats ashore, in the day-time, +to graze, with two men to look after them; notwithstanding which +precaution, the natives had contrived to steal one of them this +evening. The loss of this goat would have been of little consequence, +if it had not interfered with my views of stocking other islands with +these animals; but this being the case, it became necessary to recover +it, if possible. The next morning, we got intelligence that it had +been carried to Maheine, the chief, who was at this time at Parowroah +harbour. Two old men offered to conduct any of my people, whom I might +think proper to send to him, to bring back the goat. Accordingly, +I dispatched them in a boat, charged with a threatening message to +Maheine, if the goat was not immediately given up to me, and also the +thief. + +It was only the day before that this chief had requested me to give +him two goats. But, as I could not spare them, unless at the expense +of other lands that might never have another opportunity to get any, +and had besides heard that there were already two upon this island, +I did not gratify him. However, to shew my inclination to assist his +views in this respect, I desired Tidooa, an Otaheite chief, who was +present, to beg Otoo, in my name, to send two of these animals to +Maheine; and, by way of insuring a compliance with this request, I +sent to Otoo, by this chief a large piece of red feathers, equal +to the value of the two goats that I required. I expected that this +arrangement would have been satisfactory to Maheine and all the other +chiefs of the island; but the event shewed that I was mistaken. + +Not thinking that any one would dare to steal a second, at the very +time I was taking measures to recover the first, the goats were put +ashore again this morning; and, in the evening, a boat was sent to +bring them on board. As our people were getting them into the boat, +one was carried off undiscovered. It being immediately missed, I made +no doubt of recovering it without much trouble, as there had not been +time to carry it to any considerable distance. Ten or twelve of the +natives set out soon after, different ways, to bring it back, or to +look for it; for not one of them would own that it was stolen, but all +tried to persuade us that it had strayed into the woods; and indeed +I thought so myself. I was convinced to the contrary, however, when +I found that not one of those who went in pursuit of it returned; so +that their only view was to amuse me till their prize was beyond my +reach; and night coming on, put a stop to all farther search. About +this time the boat returned with the other goat, bringing also one of +the men who had stolen it; the first instance of the kind that I had +met with amongst these islands. + +The next morning, I found that most of the inhabitants in the +neighbourhood had moved off; carrying with them a corpse which lay on +a _toopapaoo_, opposite the ship; and that Maheine himself had retired +to the most distant part of the island. It seemed now no longer +doubtful, that a plan had been laid to steal what I had refused to +give; and that, though they had restored one, they were resolved to +keep the other, which was a she-goat, and big with kid. I was equally +fixed in my resolution that they should not keep it. I therefore +applied to the two old men who had been instrumental in getting +back the first. They told me that this had been carried to Watea, a +district on the south side of the island, by Hamoa, the chief of that +place; but that if I would send any body for it, it would be delivered +up. They offered to conduct some of my people cross the island; but, +on my learning from them that a boat might go and return the same day, +I sent one, with two petty officers, Mr Roberts and Mr Shuttleworth; +one to remain with the boat, in case she could not get to the place, +while the other should go with the guides, and one or two of our +people. + +Late in the evening the boat returned; and the officers informed me, +that, after proceeding as far in the boat as rocks and shoals would +permit, Mr Shuttleworth, with two marines, and one of the guides, +landed and travelled to Watea, to the house of Hamoa, where the people +of the place amused them for some time, by telling that the goat would +soon be brought, and pretended they had sent for it. It however never +came; and the approach of night obliged Mr Shuttleworth to return to +the boat without it. + +I was now very sorry that I had proceeded so far, as I could not +retreat with any tolerable credit, and without giving encouragement +to the people of the other islands we had yet to visit, to rob us with +impunity. I asked Omai and the two old men what methods I should next +take; and they, without hesitation, advised me to go with a party of +men into the country, and shoot every soul I should meet with. This +bloody counsel I could not follow; but I resolved to march a party of +men cross the island; and at day-break the next morning, set out with +thirty-five of my people, accompanied by one of the old men, by +Omai, and three or four of his attendants. At the same time I ordered +Lieutenant Williamson, with three armed boats, round the western part +of the island, to meet us. + +I had no sooner landed with my party, than the few natives, who still +remained in the neighbourhood, fled before us. The first man that +we met with upon our march run some risk of his life; for Omai, the +moment he saw him, asked me if he should shoot him; so fully was +he persuaded that I was going to carry his advice into execution. I +immediately ordered both him and our guide to make it known that I +did not intend to hurt, much less to kill, a single native. These glad +tidings flew before us like lightning, and stopped the flight of +the inhabitants; so that no one quitted his house, or employment, +afterward. + +As we began to ascend the ridge of hills over which lay our road, we +got intelligence that the goat had been carried that way before us; +and, as we understood, could not as yet have passed the hills; so that +we marched up in great silence, in hopes of surprising the party +who were bearing off the prize. But when we had got to the uppermost +plantation on the side of the ridge, the people there told us, that +what we were in search of had indeed been kept there the first night, +but had been carried the next morning to Watea, by Hamoa. We then +crossed the ridge without making any further enquiry, till we came +within sight of Watea, where some people shewed us Hamoa's house, and +told us that the goat was there; so that I made no doubt of getting it +immediately upon my arrival. But when I reached the house, to my very +great surprise, the few people we met with denied that they had ever +seen it, or knew any thing about it; even Hamoa himself came, and made +the same declaration. + +On our first coming to the place, I observed several men running to +and fro in the woods, with clubs and bundles of darts in their hands; +and Omai, who followed them, had some, stones thrown at him; so that +it seemed as if they had intended to oppose any step I should take by +force; but on seeing my party was too strong, had dropped the design. +I was confirmed in this notion, by observing that all their houses +were empty. After getting a few of the people of the place together, I +desired Omai to expostulate with them on the absurdity of the conduct +they were pursuing; and to tell them, that, from the testimony of many +on whom I could depend, I was well assured that the goat was in their +possession; and, therefore, insisted upon its being delivered up, +otherwise I would burn their houses and canoes. But, notwithstanding +all that I or Omai could say, they continued to deny their having any +knowledge of it. The consequence was, that I set fire to six or eight +houses, which were presently consumed, with two or three war-canoes +that lay contiguous to them. This done, I marched off to join the +boats, which were about seven or eight miles from us; and, in our way, +we burnt six more war-canoes, without any one attempting to oppose us; +on the contrary, many assisted, though probably more out of fear than +good-will. In one place, Omai, who had advanced a little before, came +back with information, that a great many men were getting together to +attack us. We made ready to receive them; but, instead of enemies, we +found petitioners, with plantain-trees in their hands, which they laid +down at my feet, and begged that I would spare a canoe that lay close +by, which I readily complied with. + +At length, about four in the afternoon, we got to the boats that were +waiting at Wharrarade, the district belonging to Tiarataboonoue; but +this chief, as well as all the principal people of the place, had +fled to the hills; though I touched not a single thing that was their +property, as they were the friends of Otoo. After resting ourselves +here about an hour, we set out for the ships, where we arrived about +eight o'clock in the evening. At that time no account of the goat had +been received; so that the operations of this day had not produced the +desired effect. + +Early next morning, I dispatched one of Omai's men to Maheine, with +this peremptory message, that, if he persisted in his refusal, I would +not leave him a single canoe upon the island, and that he might expect +a continuation of hostilities as long as the stolen animal remained +in his possession. And, that the messenger might see that I was in +earnest, before he left me, I sent the carpenter to break up three or +four canoes that lay ashore at the head of the harbour. The plank was +carried on board, as materials for building a house for Omai, at +the place where he intended to settle. I afterward went, properly +accompanied, to the next harbour, where we broke up three or four more +canoes, and burnt an equal number; and then returned on board about +seven in the evening. On my arrival, I found that the goat had been +brought back, about half an hour before; and, on enquiry, it appeared +that it had come from the very place where I had been told, the day +before, by the inhabitants, that they knew nothing of it. But, in +consequence of the message I sent to the chief in the morning, it was +judged prudent to trifle with me no longer. + +Thus ended this troublesome, and rather unfortunate business; which +could not be more regretted on the part of the natives than it was on +mine. And it grieved me to reflect, that, after refusing the pressing +solicitations of my friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of +this island, I should so soon find myself reduced to the necessity of +engaging in hostilities against its inhabitants, which, perhaps, did +them more mischief than they had suffered from Towha's expedition.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is impossible not to think that Cook carried his +resentment farther than the necessity of the case required; at least +we may say, that the necessity, besides being in a great degree of +his own creating, did not warrant such extensive aggression. His +confessing his regret and concern must be allowed to prove this, and +at the same time to indicate the tenderness of his moral feelings. It +is one of the wisest precepts of practical wisdom, not to commit one's +self farther in threatenings, or vindictive resolutions, than it will +be quite safe and convenient to carry into effect.--E.] + +The next morning our intercourse with the natives was renewed; and +several canoes brought to the ships bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to +barter; from whence it was natural for me to draw this conclusion, +that they were conscious it was their own fault if I had treated them +with severity; and that the cause of my displeasure being removed, +they had a full confidence that no further mischief would ensue. + +About nine o'clock, we weighed with a breeze down the harbour; but it +proved so faint and variable, that it was noon before we got out to +sea, when I steered for Huaheine, attended by Omai in his canoe. He +did not depend entirely upon his own judgment, but had got on board a +pilot. I observed that they shaped as direct a course for the island +as I could do. + +At Eimeo, we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. We had not +taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have +been very inconvenient; there not being a tree at Matavai but what +is useful to the inhabitants. We also got here good store of +refreshments, both in hogs and vegetables; that is, bread-fruit and +cocoa-nuts; little else being in season. I do not know that there is +any difference between the produce of this island and of Otaheite; but +there is a very striking difference in their women that I can by no +means account for. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark +hue, and, in general, forbidding features. If we met with a fine woman +among them, we were sure, upon enquiry, to find that she had come from +some other island. + +The general appearance of Eimeo is very different from that Otaheite. +The latter rising in one steep hilly body, has little low land, except +some deep valleys; and the flat border that surrounds the greatest +part of it toward the sea. Eimeo, on the contrary, has hills running +in different directions, which are very steep and rugged, leaving, in +the interspaces, very large valleys, and gently-rising grounds about +their sides. These hills, though of a rocky disposition, are, in +general, covered, almost to their tops, with trees; but the lower +parts, on the sides, frequently only with fern. At the bottom of the +harbour, where we lay, the ground rises gently to the foot of the +hills, which run across nearly in the middle of the island; but its +flat border, on each side, at a very small distance from the sea, +becomes quite steep. This gives it a romantic cast, which renders it a +prospect superior to any thing we saw at Otaheite. The soil, about +the low grounds, is a yellowish and pretty stiff mould; but, upon the +lower hills, it is blacker and more loose; and the stone that composes +the hills, is, when broken, of a blueish colour, but not very +compact texture, with some particles of _glimmer_ interspersed. These +particles seem worthy of observation. Perhaps the reader will think +differently of my judgment, when I add, that, near the station of our +ships, were two large stones, or rather rocks, concerning which +the natives have some superstitious notions. They consider them as +_eatooas_, or divinities; saying, that they are brother and sister, +and that they came by some supernatural means from Ulieta. + + +SECTION VI. + +_Arrival at Huaheine.--Council of the Chiefs.--Omai's Offerings, and +Speech to the Chiefs.--His Establishment in this Island agreed +to.--A House built, and Garden planted for him.--Singularity of his +Situation.--Measures taken to insure his Safety.--Damage done +by Cock-roaches on board the Ships.--A Thief detected and +punished.--Fire-works exhibited.--Animals left with Omai.--His +Family.--Weapons.--Inscription on his House.--His Behaviour on +the Ships leaving the Island.--Summary View of his Conduct and +Character.--Account of the two New Zealand Youths._ + +Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at day-break, +the next morning we saw Huaheine, extending from S.W. by W. 1/2 W., +to W. by N. At noon, we anchored at the north entrance of Owharre +harbour, which is on the west side of the island. The whole afternoon +was spent in warping the ships into a proper birth and mooring. Omai +entered the harbour just before us, in his canoe, but did not land. +Nor did he take much notice of any of his countrymen, though many +crowded to see him; but far more of them came off to the ships, +insomuch that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. Our +passengers presently acquainted them with what we had done at Eimeo, +and multiplied the number of houses and canoes that we had destroyed, +by ten at least. I was not sorry for this exaggerated account, as I +saw that it made a great impression upon all who heard it; so that +I had hopes it would induce the inhabitants of this island to behave +better to us than they had done during my former visits. + +While I was at Otaheite, I had learned that my old friend Oree was no +longer the chief of Huaheine; and that, at this time, he resided +at Ulietea. Indeed, he never had been more than regent during the +minority of Taireetareea, the present _earee rahie_; but he did not +give up the regency till he was forced. His two sons, Opoony and +Towha, were the first who paid me a visit, coming on board before the +ship was well in the harbour, and bringing a present with them. + +Our arrival brought all the principal people of the island to our +ships, on the next morning, being the 13th. This was just what +I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai; and the +presence of these chiefs, I guessed, would enable me to do it in the +most satisfactory manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to +establish himself at Ulietea; and if he and I could have agreed about +the mode of bringing that plan to bear, I should have had no objection +to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola, +when they conquered Ulietea, of some land in that island; and I made +no doubt of being able to get it restored to the son in an amicable +manner. For that purpose it was necessary that he should be upon good +terms with those who now were masters of the island; but he was too +great a patriot to listen to any such thing; and was vain enough to +suppose that I would reinstate him in his forfeited lands by force. +This made it impossible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me +Huaheine as the proper place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself +of the presence of the chief men of the island, and to make this +proposal to them. + +After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal +visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce this business. Omai +dressed himself very properly on the occasion, and prepared a handsome +present for the chief himself, and another for his _eatooa_. Indeed, +after he had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he +behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our landing drew most +of our visitors from the ships; and they, as well as those that were +on shore, assembled in a large house. The concourse of people, on this +occasion, was very great; and, amongst them, there appeared to be a +greater proportion of personable men and women than we had ever seen +in one assembly, at any of these new islands. Not only the bulk of +the people seemed, in general, much stouter and fairer than those of +Otaheite, but there was also a much greater number of men who appeared +to be of consequence, in proportion to the extent of the island, most +of whom had exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs of Wateeoo. +We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I would do nothing till the +_earee rahie_ came; but, when he appeared, I found that his presence +might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years +of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great +men, began with making his offering to the gods, consisting of red +feathers, cloth, &c. Then followed another offering, which was to be +given to the gods by the chief; and after that, several other small +pieces and tufts of red feathers were presented. Each article was laid +before one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and +was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's +friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these +prayers, he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had +brought him safe back. The _earee rahie no Pretane_, Lord Sandwich, +_Toote_, _Tatee_,[1] were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's +offerings and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, +in the same order in which it had been laid before him, and after +repeating a prayer, sent it to the _morai_, which, as Omai told us, +was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would have been made +there. + +[Footnote 1: Cook and Clerke.] + +These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, +and we entered upon business, by giving the young chief my present, +and receiving his in return; and, all things considered, they were +liberal enough on both sides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, +as to the manner of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us; and I +pointed out the mischievous consequences that would attend their +robbing us, as they had done during my former visits. Omai's +establishment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs. + +He acquainted them, "that he had been carried by us into our country, +where he was well received by the great king and his _earees_, and +treated with every mark of regard and affection while he staid amongst +us; that he had been brought back again, enriched, by our liberality, +with a variety of articles which would prove very useful to his +countrymen; and that, besides the two horses which were to remain with +him, several other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, +which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient number for the +use of all the islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them +that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, +that they would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to +raise provisions for himself and servants; adding, that if this could +not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I +was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." + +Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend than he +actually delivered; but these were the topics I dictated to him. I +observed that what he concluded with, about carrying him to Ulietea, +seemed to meet with the approbation of all the chiefs; and I instantly +saw the reason. Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly +flattered himself that I meant to use force in restoring him to his +father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly, and without any +authority from me, on this subject, to some of the present assembly, +who dreamed of nothing less than a hostile invasion of Ulietea, and of +being assisted by me to drive the Bolabola men out of that island. It +was of consequence, therefore, that I should undeceive them; and, +in order to this, I signified, in the most peremptory manner, that I +neither would assist them in such an enterprise, nor suffer it to be +put in execution, while I was in their seas; and that, if Omai fixed +himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced as a friend, and not forced +upon the Bolabola men as their conqueror. + +This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of the council. One +of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect: "That the +whole island of Huaheine, and every thing in it, were mine; and that, +therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." +Omai, who, like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond +the present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this, thinking, no +doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him enough. But to +offer what it would have been improper to accept, I considered as +offering nothing at all, and, therefore, I now desired that they would +not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of +land which they would allot for the settlement. Upon this, some chiefs +who had already left the assembly, were sent for; and, after a short +consultation among themselves, my request was granted by general +consent, and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the +house where our meeting was held. The extent, along the shore of the +harbour, was about two hundred yards; and its depth, to the foot +of the hill, somewhat more; but a proportional part of the hill was +included in the grant. + +This business being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, I set +up a tent ashore, established a post, and erected the observatories. +The carpenters of both ships were also set to work to build a small +house for Omai, in which he might secure the European commodities +that were his property. At the same time, some hands were employed in +making a garden for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, +melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable articles; all of +which I had the satisfaction of observing to be in a flourishing state +before I left the island. + +Omai now began seriously to attend to his own affairs, and repented +heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at +Huaheine, a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law; the sister being +married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his +other relations. I was sorry, however, to discover that, though +they were too honest to do him any injury, they were of too little +consequence in the island to do him any positive good. They had +neither authority nor influence to protect his person, or his +property; and, in that helpless situation, I had reason to apprehend +that he run great risk of being stripped of every thing he had got +from us, as soon as he should cease to have us within his reach, to +enforce the good behaviour of his countrymen, by an immediate appeal +to our irresistible power. + +A man who is richer than his neighbours is sure to be envied, by +numbers who wish to see him brought down to their own level. But +in countries where civilization, law, and religion impose their +restraints, the rich have a reasonable ground of security. And besides +there being, in all such communities, a diffusion of property, no +single individual need fear, that the efforts of all the poorer +sort can ever be united to injure him, exclusively of others who are +equally the objects of envy. It was very different with Omai. He was +to live amongst those who are strangers, in a great measure, to any +other principle of action besides the immediate impulse of their +natural feelings. But, what was his principal danger, he was to be +placed in the very singular situation of being the only rich man in +the community to which he was to belong. And having, by a fortunate +connection with us, got into his possession an accumulated quantity of +a species of treasure which none of his countrymen could create by any +art or industry of their own; while all coveted a share of this envied +wealth, it was natural to apprehend that all would be ready to join in +attempting to strip its sole proprietor. + +To prevent this, if possible, I advised him to make a proper +distribution of some of his moveables to two or three of the principal +chiefs, who, being thus gratified themselves, might be induced to +take him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries +of others. He promised to follow my advice; and I heard, with +satisfaction, before I sailed, that this very prudent step had been +taken. Not trusting, however, entirely to the operations of gratitude, +I had recourse to the more forcible motive of intimidation. With this +view, I took every opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, that +it was my intention to return to their island again, after being +absent the usual time; and that, if I did not find Omai in the same +state of security in which I was now to leave him, all those whom, I +should then discover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel +the weight of my resentment. This threatening declaration; will, +probably, have no inconsiderable effect; for our successive visits of +late years have taught these people to believe that our ships are to +return at certain periods; and while they continue to be impressed +with such a notion, which I thought it a fair stratagem to confirm, +Omai has some prospect of being permitted to thrive upon his new +plantation. + +While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the bread remaining in +the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches that +infested the ship, at this time, is incredible. The damage they did us +was very considerable; and every method devised by us to destroy them +proved ineffectual. These animals which, at first, were a nuisance, +like all other insects, had now become a real pest, and so +destructive, that few things were free from, their ravages. If food +of any kind was exposed, only for a few minutes, it was covered with +them, and they soon pierced it full of holes, resembling a honey-comb. +They were particularly destructive to birds which had been stuffed and +preserved as curiosities, and what was worse, were uncommonly fond of +ink, so that the writing on the labels fastened to different articles +were quite eaten out; and the only thing that preserved books from +them was the closeness of the binding, which prevented these devourers +getting between the leaves. According to Mr Anderson's observations, +they were of two sorts, the _blatta orientalis_ and _germanica_. +The first of these had been carried home in the ship from her former +voyage, where they withstood the severity of the hard winter in 1776, +though she was in dock all the time. The others had only made their +appearance since our leaving New Zealand, but had increased so fast, +that they now not only did all the mischief mentioned above, but +had even got amongst the rigging, so that when a sail was loosened, +thousands of them fell upon the decks. The orientates, though in +infinite numbers, scarcely came out but in the night, when they made +every thing in the cabins seem as if in motion, from the particular +noise in crawling about. And, besides their disagreeable appearance, +they did great mischief to our bread, which was so bespattered with +their excrement, that it would have been badly relished by delicate +feeders. + +The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried on between +us and the natives, without being disturbed by any one accident, till +the evening of the 22d, when a man found means to get into Mr Bayly's +observatory, and to carry off a sextant unobserved. As soon as I was +made acquainted with the theft, I went ashore, and got Omai to apply +to the chiefs to procure restitution. He did so; but they took no +steps toward it, being more attentive to a _heeva_ that was then +acting, till I ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. +They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and began to make some +enquiry after the thief, who was sitting in the midst of them, quite +unconcerned, insomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the +guilty person, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me +that he was the man, I sent him on board the ship, and there confined +him. This raised a general ferment amongst the assembled natives; and +the whole body fled in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having +employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was +brought to confess where he had hid the sextant; but, as it was now +dark, we could not find it till day-light the next morning, when it +was brought back unhurt. After this, the natives recovered from their +fright, and began to gather about us as usual. And, as to the thief, +he appearing to be a hardened scoundrel, I punished him more severely +than I had ever done any one culprit before. Besides having his head +and beard shaved, I ordered both his ears to be cut off and then +dismissed him.[2] + +[Footnote 2: We cannot suffer this action to be passed over, without +expressing indignation at the cruelty and injustice that marked it. +Not even the fair reputation of Cook for meekness and humanity ought +to deter any one from affixing the proper term to such conduct. He had +no right to award so severe a treatment, even though he had authority +to take cognizance of the man's former and general character, +which, however, it is impossible, on any satisfactory principle, to +demonstrate. It was both the duty and the interest of Captain Cook to +conform to the established maxims and decisions of the people whom +he visited, which, whatever their own practice had been, would have +proved amply severe, as we have already had occasion to observe; but +no superiority of power on his part, could warrant the introduction of +unrecognized, and to these islanders it is probable, quite unheard-of +modes of punishment. A suspicion, some persons may think a very unfair +one, lurks in the mind of the writer, that the captain had rather +_forgotten himself_ during this voyage, and that presuming, in some +degree, on his established fame and consequence, be exercised a +greater latitude of power than his original caution and sense of +responsibility would have permitted him to hazard, at an earlier +period of his career. Such undoubtedly is human nature, and it can +by no means be interpreted as an unjust aspersion, that Cook was +not exempted from its common infirmities. Captain King, as we shall +afterwards find, makes a remark on his acquired confidence with +respect to the savages, in the latter part of his professional life, +which, though in the most delicate manner imaginable, seems very +readily to fall in with the suspicion now stated. As might have been +expected, the over severe, and, at all events, imprudently managed +punishment, failed to operate beneficially on the poor wretch that +was subjected to it Perhaps it will be discovered to hold universally, +that wherever the appearance of revenge characterizes an act of +retributive justice, a feeling of the same principle hardens the +breast of the culprit, besides influencing the speculative judgments +of those who witness it But it were foolish to expect, that either one +or other will avow the existence of so dangerous a motive. The only +excuse that offers itself in. behalf of Captain Cook's conduct on this +occasion, is stated in what he immediately mentions of the anarchy +existing in this island. But even that is only a palliation in part, +and does not reach to the full amount of the case. Let the reader +judge.--E.] + +This, however, did not deter him from giving us farther trouble; for, +in the night between the 24th and 25th, a general alarm was spread, +occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this +very man. On examination, we found that all was safe in that quarter. +Probably, the goats were so well guarded, that he could not put his +design in execution. But his hostilities had succeeded against another +object, and it appeared that he had destroyed and carried off several +vines and cabbage-plants in Omai's grounds; add he publicly threatened +to kill him, and to burn his house as soon as we should leave the +island. To prevent the fellow's doing me and Omai any more mischief, +I had him seized, and confined again on board the ship, with a view +of carrying him off the island; and it seemed to give general +satisfaction to the chiefs, that I meant thus to dispose of him. He +was from Bolabola; but there were too many of the natives here ready +to assist him in any of his designs, whenever he should think of +executing them. I had always met with more troublesome people in +Huaheine than in any other of the neighbouring islands; and it was +only fear, and the want of opportunities, that induced them to behave +better now. Anarchy, seemed to prevail amongst them. Their nominal +sovereign the _earee rahie_, as I have before observed, was but a +child; and I did not find that there was any one man, or set of +men who managed the government for him; so that, whenever any +misunderstanding happened between us, I never knew, with sufficient +precision, where to make application, in order to bring about an +accommodation, or to procure redress. The young chiefs mother would, +indeed, sometimes exert herself, but I did not perceive that she had +greater authority than many others. + +Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his moveables were carried +ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other useless articles was +a box of toys, which, when exposed to public view, seemed greatly to +please the gazing multitude. But, as to his pots, kettles, dishes, +plates, drinking-mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic +accommodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look +at them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of no manner +of use to him; that a baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled +one, that a plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter, and +that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a blackjack. And, +therefore, he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles +of English furniture for the kitchen and pantry, as he could find +purchasers for, amongst the people of the ships; receiving from them +in return, hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic +value in this part of the world, and added more to his distinguishing +superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his +days. + +In the long list of the presents bestowed upon him in England, +fire-works had not been forgot. Some of these we exhibited in the +evening of the 28th, before a great concourse of people, who beheld +them with a mixture of pleasure and fear. What remained, after the +evening's entertainment, were put in order, and left with Omai, +agreeably to their original destination. Perhaps we need not lament +it as a serious misfortune, that the far greater share of this part of +his cargo, had been already expended in exhibitions at other islands, +or rendered useless by being kept so long. + +Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola +man, whom I had in confinement, found means to make his escape out' of +the ship. He carried with him the shackle of the bilbo-bolt that was +about his leg, which was taken from him, as soon as he got on shore, +by one of the chiefs, and given to Omai, who came on board very early +in the morning, to acquaint me that his mortal enemy was again let +loose upon him. Upon enquiry, it appeared that not only the sentry +placed over the prisoner, but the whole watch upon the quarter-deck +where he was confined, had laid themselves down to sleep. He +seized the opportunity to take the key of the irons out of the +binnacle-drawer, where he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. +This escape convinced me that my people had been very remiss in their +night duty, which made it necessary to punish those who were now +in fault, and to establish some new regulations to prevent the +like negligence for the future. I was not a little pleased to hear, +afterward, that the fellow who escaped had transported himself to +Ulietea; in this, seconding my views of putting him a second time in +irons.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Might not so spirited a fellow as this, by proper +treatment, have been made a most useful agent? How many talents are +often lost to society, because governments are more necessitated, or +at least more accustomed, to punish transgressions, than willing to +be at the pains of rewarding ability and fostering genius! And yet the +latter process, it might not be difficult to prove, would be much less +expensive than the former.--E.] + +As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I began to think +of leaving the island; and got every thing off from the shore, this +evening, except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid, which +were left in the possession of our friend, with whom we were now +finally to part. I also gave him a boar and two sows of the English +breed; and he had got a sow or two of his own. The horse covered the +mare while we were at Otaheite; so that I consider the introduction of +a breed of horses into these islands as likely to have succeeded, by +this valuable present. + +The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous class of +readers more than any other occurrence of a voyage, the objects +of which do not, in general, promise much entertainment. Every +circumstance, therefore, which may serve to convey a satisfactory +account of the exact situation in which he was left, will be thought +worth preserving; and the following particulars are added, to complete +the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up at Otaheite +four or five _toutous_; the two New Zealand youths remained with him; +and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine; so that +his family consisted already of eight or ten persons, if that can be +called a family to which not a single female as yet belonged, nor I +doubt was likely to belong, unless its master became less volatile. +At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a +wife. + +The house which we erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen, +and ten feet high. It was composed of boards, the spoils of our +military operations at Eimeo; and, in building it, as few nails as +possible were used, that there might be no inducement, from the love +of iron, to pull it down. It was settled, that, immediately after our +departure, he should begin to build a large house after the fashion of +his country, one end of which was to be brought over that which we had +erected, so as to enclose it entirely for greater security. In this +work, some of the chiefs promised to assist him; and, if the intended +building should cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as +large as most upon the island. + +His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box, +a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or +cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy, which was +my only view in giving him such presents. For I was always of opinion +that he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European +weapons, than with them, as such implements of war, in the hands of +one, whose prudent use of them I had some grounds for mistrusting, +would rather increase his dangers than establish his superiority. +After he had got on shore every thing that belonged to him, and was +settled in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships, two +or three times, to dinner; and his table was always well supplied with +the very best provisions that the island produced. + +Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon the outside +of his house:-- + + _Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777._ + _Naves { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._ + _{ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._ + +On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, I took the advantage +of a breeze which then sprung up at E., and sailed out of the harbour. +Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were under sail; +when, to gratify their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. +They then all took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we +were at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the shore. In +casting the ship, it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer end +was left behind, as those who cast it off did not perceive that it +was broken, so that it became necessary to send a boat to bring it +on board. In this boat, Omai went ashore, after taking a very +affectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with +a manly resolution till he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to +conceal his tears failed; and Mr King, who went in the boat, told me, +that he wept all the time in going ashore. + +It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought him safe +back to the very spot from which he was taken. And yet, such is the +strange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a +less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with +us. I do not by this mean, that because he has tasted the sweets of +civilized life, he must become more miserable from being obliged to +abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this +single disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages he received from +us have placed him in a more hazardous situation, with respect to his +personal safety. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost sight +of his original condition; and never considered in what manner his +acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be estimated by +his countrymen at his return, which were the only things he could have +to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could +build either his future greatness or happiness. He seemed even to have +mistaken their genius in this respect, and, in some measure, to have +forgotten their customs, otherwise he must have known the extreme +difficulty there would be in getting himself admitted as a person of +rank, where there is, perhaps, no instance of a man's being raised +from an inferior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the +very foundation of all distinction here, and, of its attendant, power; +and so pertinaciously, or rather blindly adhered to, that, unless a +person has some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and hated, +if he assumes the appearance of exercising any authority. This was +really the case, in some measure, with Omai, though his countrymen +were pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained +amongst them. Had he made a proper use of the presents he brought +with him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by +travelling so far, might have enabled him to form the most useful +connections. But we have given too many instances, in the course of +our narrative, of his childish inattention to this obvious means of +advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher though +ridiculous nature, indeed I might say meaner; for revenge, rather +than a desire of becoming great, appeared to actuate him from the +beginning. This, however, maybe excused, if we consider that it +is common to his countrymen. His father was, doubtless, a man of +considerable property in Ulietea, when that island was conquered by +those of Bolabola, and, with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine, +where he died, and left Omai, with some other children; who, by that +means, became totally dependent. In this situation he was taken up by +Captain Furneaux, and carried to England. Whether he really expected, +from his treatment there, that any assistance would be given him +against the enemies of his father and his country, or whether he +imagined that his own personal courage and superiority of knowledge +would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is +uncertain; but, from the beginning of the voyage, this was his +constant theme. He would not listen to our remonstrances on so wild a +determination, but flew into a passion if more moderate and reasonable +counsels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated and +attached to his favourite scheme was he, that he affected to believe +these people would certainly quit the conquered island, as soon as +they should hear of his arrival in Otaheite. As we advanced, however, +on our voyage, he became more sensible of his error; and, by the time +we reached the Friendly Islands, had even such apprehensions of his +reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would +fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, under Feenou's protection. At +these islands, he squandered away much of his European treasure very +unnecessarily; and he was equally imprudent, as I also took notice of +above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as +he had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai, he continued +the same inconsiderate behaviour, till I absolutely put a stop to his +profusion; and he formed such improper connections there, that Otoo, +who was at first much disposed to countenance him, afterward openly +expressed his dislike of him, on account of his conduct. It was not, +however, too late to recover his favour; and he might have settled, to +great advantage, in Otaheite, as he had formerly lived several years +there, and was now a good deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable +present, of a very large double canoe, we have seen above. The +objection to admitting him to some rank would have also been much +lessened, if he had fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always find +it more difficult to accomplish such a change of state amongst his +countrymen, than a stranger who naturally claims respect. But Omai +remained undetermined to the last, and would not, I believe, have +adopted my plan of settlement in Huaheine, if I had not so explicitly +refused to employ force in restoring him to his father's possessions. +Whether the remains of his European wealth, which after all his +improvident waste, was still considerable, will be more prudently +administered by him, or whether the steps I took, as already +explained, to insure him protection in Huaheine, shall have proved +effectual, must be left to the decision of future navigators of this +ocean, with whom it cannot but be a principal object of curiosity to +trace the future fortunes of our traveller. At present, I can only +conjecture that his greatest danger will arise from the very impolitic +declarations of his antipathy to the inhabitants of Bolabola. For +these people, from a principle of jealousy, will, no doubt, endeavour +to render him obnoxious to those of Huaheine; as they are at peace +with that island at present, and may easily effect their designs, many +of them living there. This is a circumstance, which, of all others, he +might the most easily have avoided. For they were not only free from +any aversion to him, but the person mentioned before, whom we found +at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, priest, or god, absolutely offered to +reinstate him in the property that was formerly his father's. But he +refused this peremptorily; and, to the very last, continued determined +to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying his revenge +in battle. To this, I guess, he was not a little spurred by the coat +of mail he brought from England; clothed in which, and in possession +of some fire-arms, he fancied that he should be invincible. + +Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were more than +overbalanced by his great good-nature and docile disposition. +During the whole time he was with me, I very seldom had reason to +be seriously displeased with his general conduct. His grateful heart +always retained the highest sense of the favours he had received in +England, nor will he ever forget those who honoured him with their +protection and friendship, during his stay there. He had a tolerable +share of understanding, but wanted application and perseverance to +exert it; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and, in +many instances, imperfect. He was not a man of much observation. There +were many useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the +people of the Friendly Islands, which he might have conveyed to his +own, where they probably would have been readily adopted, as being +so much in their own way. But I never found that he used the least +endeavour to make himself master of any one. This kind of indifference +is indeed the characteristic foible of his nation. Europeans have +visited them at times for these ten years past, yet we could not +discover the slightest trace of any attempt to profit by this +intercourse, nor have they hitherto copied after us in any one thing. +We are not, therefore, to expert that Omai will be able to introduce +many of our arts and customs amongst them, or much improve those to +which they have been long habituated. I am confident, however, that +he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and +vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the +greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai's +travels, will be in the animals that have been left upon them, which, +probably, they never would have got, had he not come to England. When +these multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite and +the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known +word, for provisions. + +Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of +our liberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers +to attend me to _Pretane_. I took every opportunity of expressing my +determination to reject all such applications. But, notwithstanding +this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great +traveller, being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to put others +in a situation of rivalling him, frequently put me in mind that Lord +Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to +England. + +If there had been the most distant probability of any ship being +again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youths of that +country home with me, as both of them were very desirous of continuing +with us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceedingly well-diposed +young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any +instruction. He seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority of his +own country to these islands, and resigned himself, though perhaps +with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But +the other was so strongly attached to us, that he was taken out of the +ship, and carried ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy; and, on +that account, much noticed on board.[4] + +[Footnote 4: Some particulars respecting the subsequent history of +Omai and the two New Zealanders, are related in the account of Captain +Bligh's voyage in 1788. We ought not to anticipate matter which +properly belongs to another period and subject. It seems right, +however, in the present instance, to set the reader's expectations at +rest, though the doing so be somewhat afflictive to his feelings. +Omai died a natural death about thirty months after Captain Cook's +departure, but not till he had the satisfaction of experiencing +the importance of the arms and ammunition he was master of, in a +successful engagement which his countrymen had with the people of +Ulietea and Bolabola. Peace soon followed, but it does not seem that +his exertions on this occasion procured him any additional possessions +or elevation of rank. From the good character, however, which his +countrymen gave of him, it appeared that he had conducted himself with +such general propriety as gained their applause. The New Zealanders +did not long survive him, but scarcely any satisfactory information of +their history could be obtained.--E.] + + +SECTION VII. + +_Arrival at Ulietea.--Astronomical Observations.--A Marine deserts, +and is delivered up.--Intelligence from Omai.--Instructions to Captain +Clerke.--Another Desertion of a Midshipman and a Seaman.--Three of +the chief Persons of the Island confined on that Account.--A Design to +seize Captains Cook and Clerke, discovered.--The two Deserters brought +back, and the Prisoners released.--The Ships sail.--Refreshments +received at Ulietea.--Present and former State of that +Island.--Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of +Huaheine._ + +The boat which carried Omai ashore, never to join us again, having +returned to the ship, with the remainder of the hawser, we hoisted her +in, and immediately stood over for Ulietea, where I intended to touch +next. At ten o'clock at night, we brought-to, till four the next +morning, when we made sail round the south end of the island, for the +harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs of wind, from +different directions, by turns; so that, at noon, we were still a +league from the entrance of the harbour. While we were thus detained, +my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his son and Pootoe, his +son-in-law, came off to visit us. + +Being resolved to push for the harbour, I ordered all the boats to be +hoisted out, and sent them a-head to tow, being assisted by a slight +breeze from the southward. This breeze failed too soon, and being +succeeded by one from the E., which blew right out of the harbour, we +were obliged to come to an anchor at its entrance at two o'clock, and +to warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as we were +within the harbour, the ships were surrounded with canoes filled +with people, who brought hogs and fruit to barter with us for our +commodities, so that wherever we went we found plenty. + +Next morning, being the 4th, I moored the ship head and stern close to +the north shore, at the head of the harbour; hauled up the cables on +deck, and opened one of the ballast-ports. From this a slight stage +was made to the land, being at the distance of about twenty feet, with +a view to get clear of some of the rats that continued to infest us. +The Discovery moored alongside the south shore for the same purpose. +While this work was going forward, I returned Oreo's visit. The +present I made him on the occasion, consisted of a linen gown, a +shirt, a red-feathered cap from Tongataboo, and other things of less +value. I then brought him and some of his friends on board to dinner. + +On the 6th, we set up the observatories, and got the necessary +instruments on shore. The two following days we observed the sun's +azimuths, both on board and ashore, with all the compasses, in order +to find the variation; and in the night of the latter, observed an +occultation of _Sigma Capricorni_, by the moon's dark limb. Mr Bayly and +I agreed in fixing the time of its happening, at six minutes and +fifty-four seconds and a half past ten o'clock. Mr King made it half +a second sooner. Mr Bayly observed with the achromatic telescope +belonging to the board of longitude; Mr King, with the reflector +belonging also to the board; and I made use of my own reflector of +eighteen inches. There was also an immersion of _Pi Capricorni_ behind +the moon's dark limb, some time before, but it was observed by Mr +Bayly alone. I attempted to trace it with a small achromatic, but +found its magnifying power not sufficient. + +Nothing worthy of note happened till the night between the 12th +and 13th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at the +observatory, deserted, carrying with him his musket and accoutrements. +Having in the morning got intelligence which way he had moved off, a +party was sent after him; but they returned in the evening, after an +ineffectual enquiry and search. The next day I applied to the chief +to interest himself in this matter. He promised to send a party of his +men after him, and gave me hopes that he should be brought back the +same day. But this did not happen; and I had reason to suspect that no +steps had been taken by him. We had at this time a great number of +the natives about the ships, and some thefts were committed; the +consequence of which being dreaded by them, very few visitors came +near us the next morning. The chief himself joined in the alarm, and +he and his whole family fled. I thought this a good opportunity to +oblige them to deliver up the deserter; and having got intelligence +that he was at a place called Hamoa, on the other side of the island, +I went thither with two armed boats, accompanied by one of the +natives; and, in our way, we found the chief, who also embarked +with me. I landed about a mile and a half from the place, with a +few people, and marched briskly up to it, lest the sight of the +boat should give the alarm, and allow the man time to escape to the +mountains. But this precaution was unnecessary, for the natives there +had got information of my coming, and were prepared to deliver him up. + +I found Harrison, with the musket lying before him, sitting between +two women, who, the moment that I entered the house, rose up to plead +in his behalf. As it was highly proper to discourage such proceedings, +I frowned upon them, and bid them begone. Upon this they burst into +tears, and walked off. Paha, the chief of the district, now came with +a plantain tree, and a sucking pig, which he would have presented +to me as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of my +sight; and having embarked with the deserter on board the first boat +that arrived, returned to the ships. After this, harmony was again +restored. The fellow had nothing to say in his defence, but that the +natives had enticed him away; and this might in part be true, as it +was certain that Paha, and also the two women above-mentioned, had +been at the ship the day before he deserted. As it appeared that he +remained upon his post till within a few minutes of the time when he +was to have been relieved, the punishment that I inflicted upon him +was not very severe. + +Though we had separated from Omai, we were still near enough to have +intelligence of his proceedings; and I had desired to hear from him. +Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea, he +sent two of his people in a canoe, who brought me the satisfactory +intelligence that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, +and that every thing went well with him, except that his goat had died +in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence with a request, that I +would send him another goat and two axes. Being happy to have this +additional opportunity of serving him, the messengers were sent back +to Huaheine on the 18th, with the axes and two kids, male and female, +which were spared for him out of the Discovery. + +The next day I delivered to Captain Clerke instructions how to proceed +in case of being separated from me, after leaving these islands; and +it may not be improper to give them a place here. + + +_By Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majesty's Sloop the +Resolution._ + +"Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the northern coast of +America, is of considerable length, both in distance and in time, and +as a part of it must be performed in the very depth of winter, when +gales of wind and bad weather must be expected, and may possibly +occasion a separation, you are to take all imaginable care to prevent +this. But if, notwithstanding all our endeavours to keep company, you +should be separated from me, you are first to look for me where +you last saw me. Not seeing me in five days, you are to proceed (as +directed by the instructions of their lordships, a copy of which you +have already received) for the coast of New Albion; endeavouring to +fall in with it in the latitude of 45°. + +"In that latitude, and at a convenient distance from the land, you are +to cruize for me ten days. Not seeing me in that time, you are to put +into the first convenient port in or to the north of that latitude, to +recruit your wood and water, and to procure refreshments. + +"During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep a good look-out +for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to make choice of a station, +situated as near the sea-coast as is possible, the better to enable +you to see me when I shall appear in the offing. + +"If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you are to put to +sea, and proceed northward to the latitude 56°; in which latitude, +and at a convenient distance from the coast, never exceeding fifteen +leagues, you are to cruize for me till the 10th of May. + +"Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, and +endeavour to find a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, through Hudson's +or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the above-mentioned instructions. + +"But if you should fail in finding a passage through either of the +said bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render +it unsafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair +to the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, in order to +refresh your people, and to pass the winter. + +"But, nevertheless, if you find that you cannot procure the necessary +refreshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you +shall judge most proper; taking care, before you depart, to leave with +the governor an account of your intended destination, to be delivered +to me upon my arrival; and in the spring of the ensuing year, 1779, +you are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, endeavouring to be +there by the 10th of May, or sooner. + +"If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account of me, so +as to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed +out in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are +to be governed by them. + +"You are also to comply with such parts of said instructions as have +not been executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in +case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these, +and the instructions of their lordships into execution, you are to be +careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby +required to execute them in the best manner he can. + +"Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at Ulietea, the 18th +day of November 1777. + +"J. COOK. + + + "To Captain Charles Clerke, Commander of his Majesty's Sloop + the Discovery," + +While we lay moored to the shore we heeled and scrubbed both sides of +the bottoms of the ships. At the same time we fixed some tin-plates +under the binds, first taking off the old sheathing, and putting in a +piece unfilled, over which the plates were nailed. These plates I +had from the ingenious Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners for +victualling his majesty's navy, with a view of trying whether tin +would answer the same end as copper on the bottoms of ships. + +On the 24th, in the morning, I was informed that a midshipman and a +seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Soon after we +learnt from the natives, that they went away in a canoe the preceding +evening, and were, at this time, at the other end of the island. As +the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these +islands, it seemed pretty certain that he and his companion had gone +off with this intention; and Captain Clerke set out in quest of them +with two armed boats and a party of marines. His expedition proved +fruitless, for he returned in the evening, without having got any +certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives, +Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the +deserters; and, with that view, had amused him with false information +the whole day, and directed him to search for them in places where +they were not to be found. The Captain judged right; for the next +morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two +were not the only persons in the ships who wished to end their days +at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further +desertion, it was necessary to get them back at all events; and, that +the natives might be convinced that I was in earnest, I resolved to go +after them myself; having observed, from repeated instances, that they +seldom offered to deceive me with false information. + +Accordingly, I set out the next morning with two armed boats, being +accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded as he directed, without +stopping any where, till we came to the middle of the east side of +Otaha. There we put ashore, and Oreo dispatched a man before us, with +orders to seize the deserters, and keep them till we should arrive +with the boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find +them, we were told that they had quitted this island, and gone over +to Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow them +thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, however, to have +recourse to a measure which, I guessed, would oblige the natives to +bring them back. + +In the night, Mr Bayly, Mr King, and myself, observed an immersion of +Jupiter's third satellite. It happened, by the observation of + + Mr Bayly, at 2^h 37^m 54^s } + Mr King, at 2 37 24 } in the morning. + Myself, at 2 37 44 } + +Mr Bayly and Mr King observed with Dolland's three-and-a-half inch +achromatic telescope, and with the greatest magnifying power. I +observed with a two-feet Gregorian reflector, made by Bird. + +Soon after day-break, the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law, +came on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain +till the two deserters should be brought back. With this view, Captain +Clerke invited them to go on board his ship; and, as soon as they +arrived there, confined them in his cabin. The chief was with me when +the news reached him. He immediately acquainted me with it, supposing +that this step had been taken without my knowledge, and, consequently, +without my approbation. I instantly undeceived him; and then he began +to have apprehensions as to his own situation, and his looks expressed +the utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon made him easy as to this; +by telling him, that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he +pleased, and to take such measures as he should judge best calculated +to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his friends on board +the Discovery should be delivered up, if not, that I was determined +to carry them away with me. I added, that his own conduct, as well +as that of many of his men, in not only assisting these two men to +escape, but in being, even at this very time, assiduous in enticing +others to follow them, would justify any step I could take to put a +stop to such proceedings. + +This explanation of the motives upon which I acted, and which we found +means to make Oreo and his people, who were present, fully comprehend, +seemed to recover them, in a great measure, from that general +consternation into which they were at first thrown. But, if relieved +from apprehensions about their own safety, they continued under the +deepest concern for those who were prisoners. Many of them went under +the Discovery's stern in canoes, to bewail their captivity, which they +did with long and loud exclamations. _Poedooa!_ for so the chief's +daughter was called, resounded from every quarter; and the women +seemed to vie with each other in mourning her fate with more +significant expressions of their grief than tears and cries, for there +were many bloody heads upon the occasion. + +Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but +instantly began his exertions to recover our deserters, by dispatching +a canoe to Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that +island, acquainting him with what had happened, and requesting him to +seize the two fugitives, and send them back. The messenger, who was no +less a man than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, before he set +out came to receive my commands. I strictly enjoined him not to return +without the deserters, and to tell Opoony, from me, that, if they had +left Bolabola, he must send canoes to bring them back, for I suspected +that they would not long remain in one place. + +The consequence, however, of the prisoners was so great, that the +natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for +their release; or, at least, their impatience was so great, that it +hurried them to meditate an attempt which might have involved them in +still greater distress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between +five and six o'clock in the evening, I observed that all their canoes +in and about the harbour began to move off, as if some sudden panic +had seized them. I was ashore, abreast of the ship at the time, and +enquired in vain to find out the cause, till our people called to +as from the Discovery, and told us, that a party of the natives had +seized Captain Clerke and Mr Gore, who had walked out a little way +from the ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, +which seemed to counteract me so effectually in my own way, there was +no time to deliberate. I instantly ordered the people to arm; and in +less than five minutes, a strong party, under the command of Mr King, +was sent to rescue our two gentlemen. At the same time, two armed +boats, and a party under Mr Williamson, went after the flying canoes, +to cut off their retreat to the shore. These several detachments +were hardly out of sight, before an account arrived that we had been +misinformed, upon which I sent and called them all in. + +It was evident, however, from several corroborating circumstances, +that the design of seizing Captain Clerke had really been in agitation +amongst the natives. Nay, they made no secret in speaking of it the +next day. But their first and great plan of operations was to have +laid hold of me. It was my custom, every evening, to bathe in the +fresh water. Very often I went alone, and always without arms. +Expecting me to go as usual this evening, they had determined to seize +me, and Captain Clerke too, if he had accompanied me. But I had, after +confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in +their power; and had cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to +go far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon the chief asked +me three several times, if I would not go to the bathing-place; and +when he found, at last, that I could not be prevailed upon, he went +off with the rest of his people, in spite of all that I could do or +say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion, at this time, of their +design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, which +would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves disappointed as to +me, they fixed on those who were more in their power. It was fortunate +for all parties that they did not succeed, and not less fortunate +that no mischief was done on the occasion; for not a musket was fired, +except two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, +Messrs Clerke and Gore owed their safety;[1] for, at that very +instant, a party of the natives, armed with clubs, were advancing +toward them, and, on hearing the report of the muskets, they +dispersed. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps they owed their safety principally to Captain +Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. +This circumstance is omitted both in Captain Cook's and Mr Andersen's +journal, but it is here mentioned on the authority of Captain +King.--D.] + +This conspiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered by a girl, +whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. She, overhearing +some of the Ulieteans say, that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr +Gore, ran to acquaint the first of our people that she met with. Those +who were charged with the execution of the design threatened to kill +her as soon as we should leave the island, for disappointing them. +Being aware of this, we contrived that her friends should come, some +days after, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place +of safety, where she might lie concealed till they should have an +opportunity of sending her back to Huaheine. + +On the 27th, our observatories were taken down, and every thing we had +ashore carried on board; the moorings of the ships were cast off, and +we transported them a little way down the harbour, where they came to +an anchor again. Toward the afternoon the natives began to shake off +their fears, gathering round and on board the ships as usual, and the +awkward transactions of the day before seemed to be forgotten on both +sides. + +The following night the wind blew in hard squalls from S. to E. +attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable +by which the Resolution was riding, parted just without the hawse. +We had another anchor ready to let go, so that the ship was presently +brought up again. In the afternoon the wind became moderate, and we +hooked the end of the best small bower-cable, and got it again into +the hawse. + +Oreo, the chief, being uneasy, as well as myself, that no account had +been received from Bolabola, set out this evening for that island, +and desired me to follow him the next day with the ships. This was my +intention, but the wind would not admit of our getting to sea. But +the same wind which kept us in the harbour, brought Oreo back from +Bolabola, with the two deserters. They had reached Otaha the same +night they deserted; but, finding it impossible to get to any of the +islands to the eastward (which was their intention) for want of wind, +they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island +Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in consequence +of the first message sent to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, +the three prisoners were released. Thus ended an affair which had +given me much trouble and vexation. Nor would I have exerted myself so +resolutely on the occasion, but for the reasons before mentioned, and +to save the son of a brother officer from being lost to his country. + +The wind continued constantly between the N. and W. and confined us in +the harbour till eight o'clock in the morning of the 7th of December, +when we took the advantage of a light breeze which then sprung up at +N.E., and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with +the Discovery in company. + +During the last week we had been visited by people from all parts +of the island, who furnished us with a large stock of hogs and green +plantains. So that the time we lay wind-bound in the harbour was +not entirely lost; green plantains being an excellent substitute for +bread, as they will keep good a fortnight or three weeks. Besides this +supply of provisions, we also completed our wood and water. + +The inhabitants of Ulietea seemed, in general, smaller and blacker +than those of the other neighbouring islands, and appeared also less +orderly, which, perhaps, may be considered as the consequence of their +having become subject to the natives of Bolabola. Oreo, their chief, +is only a sort of deputy of the sovereign of that island; and the +conquest seems to have lessened the number of subordinate chiefs +resident among them; so that they are less immediately under the +inspection of those whose interest it is to enforce due obedience to +authority. Ulietea, though now reduced to this humiliating state, +was formerly, as we were told, the most eminent of this cluster of +islands, and, probably, the first seat of government; for, they say, +that the present royal family of Otaheite is descended from that which +reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch +of Ulietea, was still alive when we were at Huaheine, where he +resides, a royal wanderer, furnishing, in his person, an instance of +the instability of power; but, what is more remarkable, of the respect +paid by these people to particular families, and to the customs which +have once conferred sovereignty; for they suffer Ooroo to preserve all +the ensigns which they appropriate to majesty, though he has lost his +dominions. + +We saw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the +occasional visitors I now had was my old friend Oree, the late chief +of Huaheine. He still preserved his consequence; came always at the +head of a numerous body of attendants, and was always provided with +such presents as were very acceptable. This chief looked much better +now than I had ever seen him during either of my former voyages. I +could account for his improving in health as he grew older, only +from his drinking less copiously of _ava_ in his present station as +a private gentleman, than he had been accustomed to do when he was +regent.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Captain Cook had seen Oree in 1769, when he commanded the +Endeavour; also twice during his second voyage in 1772.--D.] + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Arrival at Bolabola.--Interview with Opoony.--Reasons for purchasing +Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor.--Departure from the Society +Islands.--Particulars about Bolabola.--History of the Conquest of +Otaha and Ulieta.--High Reputation of the Bolabola Men.--Animals left +there and at Ulietea.--Plentiful Supply of Provisions, and Manner of +salting Pork on Board.--Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and +the Society Islands.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations made +there._ + +As soon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took our leave of +Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not sole object I +had in view by visiting that island was, to procure from its monarch, +Opoony, one of the anchors which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at +Otaheite. This having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, +had, as they informed me, been sent by them as a present to that +chief. My desire to get possession of it did not arise, from our being +in want of anchors; but having expended all the hatchets, and +other iron tools which we had brought from England, in purchasing +refreshments, we were now reduced to the necessity of creating a fresh +assortment of trading articles, by fabricating them out of the spare +iron we had on board; and in such conversions, and in the occasional +uses of the ships, great part of that had been already expended. I +thought that M. de Bougainville's anchor would supply our want of this +useful material; and I made no doubt that I should be able to tempt +Opoony to part with it. + +Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a passage with us +to Bolabola. Indeed most of the natives in general, except the chief +himself, would have gladly taken a passage with us to England. At +sunset, being the length of the south point of Bolabola, we shortened +sail, and spent the night making short boards. At day-break, on the +8th, we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the +island. The wind was scant, so that we had to ply up, and it was nine +o'clock before we got near enough to send away a boat to sound the +entrance, for I had thoughts of running the ships in, and anchoring +for a day or two. + +When the boat returned, the master, who was in her, reported, that +though at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there +was good ground within, and the depth of water twenty-seven and +twenty-five fathoms; and that there was room to turn the ships in, +the channel being one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this +report, we attempted to work the ships in. But the tide, as well as +the wind, being against us, after making two or three trips, I found +that it could not be done till the tide should turn in our favour. +Upon this I gave up the design of carrying the ships into the harbour; +and having ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one of +them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and was rowed in for the +island. + +We landed where the natives directed us, and soon after I was +introduced to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. +Having no time to lose, as soon as the necessary formality of +compliments was over, I asked the chief to give me the anchor, and +produced the present I had prepared for him, consisting of a linen +night-gown, a shirt, some gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some +beads and other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last there +was a general outcry. I could only guess the cause, by Opoony's +absolutely refusing to receive my present till I should get the +anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me; and, as I +understood, I was to send by them what I thought proper in return. +With these messengers we set out in our boat for an island, lying at +the north side of the entrance into the harbour, where the anchor had +been deposited. I found it to be neither so large nor so perfect as I +expected. It had originally weighed seven hundred pounds, according +to the mark that was upon it; but the ring, with part of the shank and +two palms, were now wanting. I was no longer at a loss to guess the +reason of Opoony's refusing my present. He doubtless thought that it +so much exceeded the value of the anchor in its present state, that +I should be displeased when I saw it. Be this as it may, I took the +anchor as I found it, and sent him every article of the present that I +at first intended. Having thus completed my negociation, I returned on +board, and having hoisted in the boats, made sail from the island to +the north.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Here again is a trait of genuine nobility, sufficient, we +have no doubt, to reinstate our commander in the good graces of every +reader. On the other hand, there is something so truly honest on +the part of Opoony and his people in declining the acceptance of the +present, till Cook had seen the article he was bargaining for, that +we cannot help giving them high credit for moral attainments. How +forcibly does such a conduct prove the existence of a sense of the +law, which says, "Do to others, as you would that others should do to +you." It is curious, that some authors have maintained, that no such +law is recognised among mankind till they are made acquainted with +divine revelation. But these persons have confounded together two +things, which are quite distinct,--a sense of the obligation of such a +law, and a disposition and power to obey it. The former may exist, and +indeed more generally does exist, without the latter. But we see, by +the present example, that both may operate, where, according to this +opinion, no such thing as either could be found. Here, however, +we would not take it upon us to affirm any thing in respect of +the motives which influenced the obedience. In so far as our +fellow-creatures alone are concerned, it is barely and simply our +actions which ought to be considered. It is the prerogative of +a higher tribunal to judge of the heart and the principles it +contains.--E.] + +While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came off in +three or four canoes to see the ships, as they said. They brought with +them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, which was the only one we got at +the island. I make no doubt, however, that if we had staid till the +next day, we should have been plentifully supplied with provisions; +and I think the natives would feel themselves disappointed when they +found that we were gone. But as we had already a very good stock, both +of hogs and of fruit on board, and very little of any thing left to +purchase more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the +prosecution of our voyage. + +The harbour of Bolabola, called Oteavanooa, situated on the west side +of the island, is one of the most capacious that I ever met with; and +though we did not enter it, it was a satisfaction to me that I had +an opportunity of employing my people to ascertain its being a very +proper place for the reception of ships. + +The high double-peaked mountain, which is in the middle of the island, +appeared to be barren on the east side; but on the west side, has +trees or bushes on its most craggy parts. The lower grounds, all round +toward the sea, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, +like the other islands of this ocean; and the many little islets that +surrounded it on the inside of the reef, add both to the amount of its +vegetable productions and to the number of its inhabitants. + +But still, when we consider its very small extent, being not more +than eight leagues in compass, it is rather remarkable that its people +should have attempted, or have been able to atchieve the conquest of +Ulietea and Otaha, the former of which islands is, of itself, at least +double its size. In each of my three voyages, we had heard much of the +war that produced this great revolution. The result of our enquiries, +as to the circumstances attending it, may amuse the reader; and I give +it as a specimen of the history of our friends, in this part of the +world, as related to us by themselves.[2] + +[Footnote 2: For this, as for many other particulars about these +people, we are indebted to Mr Anderson.--D.] + +Ulietea, and Otaha which adjoins it, lived long in friendship, or, as +the natives express it, were considered as two brothers, inseparable +by any interested views. They also admitted the island of Huaheine as +their friend, though not so intimate. Otaha, however, like a traitor, +leagued with Bolabola, and they resolved jointly to attack Ulietea; +whose people called in their friends of Huaheine to assist them +against these two powers. The men of Bolabola were encouraged by a +priestess, or rather prophetess, who foretold that they should be +successful; and, as a proof of the certainty of her prediction, she +desired, that a man might be sent to the sea, at a particular place, +where, from a great depth, a stone would ascend. He went, accordingly, +in a canoe to the place mentioned; and was going to dive to see +where this stone lay, when, behold, it started up to the surface +spontaneously into his hand! The people were astonished at the sight: +The stone was deposited as sacred in the house of the _Eatooa_; and is +still preserved at Bolabola, as a proof of this woman's influence +with the divinity. Their spirits being thus elevated with the hopes of +victory, the canoes of Bolabola set out to engage those of Ulietea +and Huaheine, which being strongly fastened together with ropes, +the encounter lasted long, and would probably, notwithstanding +the prediction and the miracle, have ended in the overthrow of the +Bolabola fleet, if that of Otaha had not, in the critical moment, +arrived. This turned the fortune of the day, and their enemies were +defeated with great slaughter. The men of Bolabola, prosecuting their +victory, invaded Huaheine two days after, which they knew must be +weakly defended, as most of its warriors were absent. Accordingly, +they made themselves masters of that island. But many of its fugitives +having got to Otaheite, there told their lamentable story; which so +grieved those of their countrymen, and of Ulietea, whom, they met with +in that island, that they obtained some assistance from them. They +were equipped with only ten fighting canoes; but, though their force +was so inconsiderable, they conducted the expedition with so much +prudence, that they landed at Huaheine at night, when dark, and, +falling upon the Bolabola men by surprise, killed many of them, +forcing the rest to fly. So that, by this means, they got possession +of their island again, which now remains independent, under the +government of its own chiefs. Immediately after the defeat of the +united fleets of Ulietea and Huaheine, a proposal was made to the +Bolabola men by their allies of Otaha, to be admitted to an equal +share of the conquests. The refusal of this broke the alliance; and +in the course of the war, Otaha itself, as well as Ulietea, was +conquered; and both now remain subject to Bolabola; the chiefs who +govern them being only deputies of Opoony, the sovereign of that +island. In the reduction of the two islands, five battles were fought +at different places, in which great numbers were slain on both sides. + +Such was the account we received. I have more than once remarked, +how very imperfectly these people recollect the exact dates of past +events. And with regard to this war, though it happened not many +years ago, we could only guess at the time of its commencement and +its conclusion, from collateral circumstances, furnished by our own +observation, as the natives could not satisfy our enquiries with any +precision. The final conquest of Ulietea, which closed the war, we +know had been made before I was there in the Endeavour, in 1769; but +we may infer, that peace had not been very long restored, as we could +then see marks of recent hostilities having been committed upon that +island. Some additional light may be thrown upon this enquiry, by +attending to the age of Teereetareea, the present chief of Huaheine. +His looks shewed that he was not above ten or twelve years old; and we +were informed that his father had been killed in one of the battles. +As to the time when the war began, we had no better rule for judging +than this, that the young people of about twenty years of age, of whom +we made enquiries, could scarcely remember the first battles; and +I have already mentioned, that Omai's countrymen, whom we found +at Wateoo, knew nothing of this war; so that its commencement was +subsequent to their voyage. + +Ever since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolabola men have +been considered by their neighbours as invincible; and such is the +extent of their fame, that even at Otaheite, which is almost out of +their reach, if they are not dreaded, they are, at least, respected +for their valour. It is said that they never fly in battle, and that +they always beat an equal number of the other islanders. But, besides +these advantages, their neighbours seem to ascribe a great deal to the +superiority of their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea +by contrary winds, as being unwilling that we should visit an island +under his special protection. + +How high the Bolabola men are now in estimation at Otaheite, may be +inferred from Monsieur de Bougainville's anchor having been +conveyed to them. To the same cause we must ascribe the intention of +transporting to their island the Spanish bull. And they had already +got possession of a third European curiosity, the male of another +animal, brought to Otaheite by the Spaniards. We had been, much +puzzled, by the imperfect description of the natives, to guess what +this could be; but Captain Clerke's deserters, when brought back from +Bolabola, told me, that the animal had been there shewn to them, and +that it was a ram. It seldom happens but that some good arises out +of evil, and if our two men had not deserted, I should not have known +this. In consequence of their information, at the same time that I +landed to meet Opoony, I carried ashore a ewe, which we had brought +from the Cape of Good Hope; and I hope that by this present I have +laid the foundation for a breed of sheep at Bolabola. I also left +at Ulietea, under the care of Oreo, an English boar and sow, and two +goats. So that not only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, +will, in a few years, have their race of hogs considerably improved; +and, probably, be stocked with all the valuable animals which have +been transported hither by their European visitors. + +When once this comes to pass, no part of the world will equal these +islands in variety and abundance of refreshments for navigators. +Indeed, even in their present state, I know no place that excels them. +After repeated trials in the course of several voyages we find, when +they are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with +one another, which has been the case for some years past, that their +productions are in the greatest plenty; and, particularly, the most +valuable of all the articles, their hogs. + +If we had had a larger assortment of goods, and a sufficient quantity +of salt on board, I make no doubt that we might have salted as much +pork as would have served both ships near twelve months. But our +visiting the Friendly Islands, and our long stay at Otaheite and the +neigbourhood, quite exhausted our trading commodities, particularly +our axes, with which alone, hogs, in general, were to be purchased. +And we had hardly salt enough to cure fifteen puncheons of meat; of +these, five were added to our stock of provisions at the Friendly +Islands, and the other ten at Otaheite. Captain Clerke also salted a +proportionable quantity for his ship. + +The process was the same that had been adopted by me in my last +voyage; and it may be worth while to describe it again. The hogs were +killed in the evening; as soon as they were cleaned, they were cut up, +the bone taken out, and the meat salted when it was hot. It was then +laid in such a position as to permit the juices to drain from it, till +the next morning, when it was again salted, packed into a cask, and +covered with pickle. Here it remained for four or five days, or a +week; after which it was taken out and examined, piece by piece, +and if there was any found to be in the least tainted, as sometimes +happened, it was separated from the rest, which was repacked into +another cask, headed up, and filled with good pickle. In about eight +or ten days time it underwent a second examination; but this seemed +unnecessary, as the whole was generally found to be perfectly cured. A +mixture of bay and of white salt answers the best, but either of them +will do alone. Great care should be taken that none of the large blood +vessels remain in the meat; nor must too great a quantity be packed +together, at the first salting, lest the pieces in the middle should +heat, and, by that means, prevent the salt from penetrating them. +This once happened to us, when we killed a larger quantity than usual. +Rainy sultry weather is unfavourable for salting meat in tropical +climates. + +Perhaps the frequent visits Europeans have lately made to these +islanders, may be one great inducement to their keeping up a large +stock of hogs, as they have had experience enough to know, that, +whenever we come, they may be sure of getting from us what they esteem +a valuable consideration for them. At Otaheite they expect the return +of the Spaniards every day, and they will look for the English two or +three years hence, not only there, but at the other islands. It is to +no purpose to tell them that you will not return; they think you must, +though not one of them knows, or will give himself the trouble to +enquire, the reason of your coming. + +I own I cannot avoid expressing it as my real opinion, that it would +have been far better for these poor people, never to have known our +superiority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable, +than, after once knowing it, to be again left and abandoned to their +original incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they cannot be restored to +that happy mediocrity in which they lived before we discovered them, +if the intercourse between us should be discontinued. It seems to me +that it has become in a manner incumbent on the Europeans to visit +them once in three or four years, in order to supply them with those +conveniences which we have introduced among them, and have given them +a predilection for. The want of such occasional supplies will probably +be felt very heavily by them, when it may be too late to go back to +their old less perfect contrivances, which they now despise, and have +discontinued since the introduction of ours. For by the time that the +iron tools, of which they are now possessed, are worn out, they will +have almost lost the knowledge of their own. A stone-hatchet is, at +present, as rare a thing amongst them, as an iron one was eight years +ago; and a chisel of bone or stone is not to be seen. Spike-nails have +supplied the place of these last, and they are weak enough to fancy +that they have got an inexhaustible store of them; for these were not +now at all sought after. Sometimes, however, nails much smaller than a +spike would still be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened, +at present, to be in great esteem at Ulietea, and axes and hatchets +remained unrivalled by any other of our commodities at all the +islands. With respect to articles of mere ornament, these people are +as changeable as any of the polished nations of Europe; so that what +pleases their fancy, while a fashion is in vogue, may be rejected, +when another whim has supplanted it. But our iron tools are so +strikingly useful, that they will, we may confidently pronounce, +continue to prize them highly; and be completely miserable, if, +neither possessing the materials, nor trained up to the art of +fabricating them, they should cease to receive supplies of what may +now be considered as having become necessary to their comfortable +existence.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook's reasoning here is irresistibly convincing; +yet it is very remarkable that no practical benefit resulted from +it, in favour of the people whose cause he pleads. One can scarcely +account, far less apologize, for the extraordinary fact, that nearly +eleven years, from the date of this voyage, had elapsed, before any +British vessel touched at Otaheite, and that even then the visit was +an accidental one. Soon afterwards, however, Lieutenant Bligh was +ordered to visit it, for the purpose, not of conferring benefits +on it, but of procuring the bread-fruit tree, for our West India +possessions. Of the changes which had happened in that interval, +it would be improper to make any mention in this place. The reader +nevertheless may be informed, that much of the evil, which Captain +Cook had foreseen, really occurred. The want of iron tools especially +was most severely felt.--E.] + +Otaheite, though not comprehended in the number of what we have called +the Society Islands, being inhabited by the same race of men, +agreeing in the same leading features of character and manners, it was +fortunate, that we happened to discover this principal island before +the others; as the friendly and hospitable reception we there met +with, of course, led us to make it the principal place of resort, +in our successive visits to this part of the Pacific Ocean. By the +frequency of this intercourse, we have had better opportunities of +knowing something about it and its inhabitants, than about the other +similar but less considerable islands in its vicinity. Of these, +however, we have seen enough to satisfy us, that all that we observed +and have related of Otaheite, may, with trifling variations, be +applied to them. + +Too much seems to have been already known and published in our former +relations, about some of the modes of life that made Otaheite so +agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and, if I could now add +any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been +already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated +to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious +manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose information +I write. There are, however, many parts of the domestic, political, +and religious institutions of these people, which, after all our +visits to them, are but imperfectly understood. The foregoing +narrative of the incidents that happened during our stay, will +probably be thought to throw some additional light; and, for farther +satisfaction, I refer to Mr Anderson's remarks. + +Amidst our various subordinate employments, while at these islands, +the great objects of our duty were always attended to. No opportunity +was lost of making astronomical and nautical observations; from which +the following table was drawn up: + + Place. Latitude. Longitude. Variation of Dip of the + South. East. the Compass. Needle. + Matavai Point, + Otaheite, 17° 24-1/4' 210° 22' 28" 5° 34' East 29° 12' + + Owharre Harbour 16° 42-3/4' 208° 52' 24" 5° 13-1/2" East 28° 28' + Huaheine, + + Ohamaneno Harbour 16° 45-1/2' 208° 25' 22" 6° 19' East 29° 5' + Ulietea, + +[Transcriber's Note: It is possible that the compass variation at +Owharre Harbour should read 5° 13-1/2' not 5° 13-1/2" (minutes not +seconds)] + +The longitude of the three several places is deduced from the mean of +145 sets of observations made on shore; some at one place, and some at +another; and carried on to each of the stations by the time-keeper. As +the situation of these places was very accurately settled, during my +former voyages, the above observations were now made chiefly with a +view of determining how far a number of lunar observations might be +depended upon, and how near they would agree with those made upon the +same spot in 1769, which fixed Matavai Point to be in 210° 27' 30". +The difference, it appears, is only of 5' 2"; and, perhaps, no +other method could have produced a more perfect agreement. Without +pretending to say which of the two computations is the nearest the +truth, the longitude of 210° 22' 28", or, which is the same thing, +208° 25' 22", will be the longitude we shall reckon from with the +time-keeper, allowing it to be losing, on mean time, 1,"69 each day, +as found by the mean of all the observations made at these islands for +that purpose. + +On our arrival at Otaheite, the error of the time-keeper in longitude +was, + + by {Greenwich rate, 1° 18' 58" + {Tongataboo rate, 0° 16' 40" + +Some observations were also made on the tide; particularly at Otaheite +and Ulietea, with a view of ascertaining its greatest rise at the +first place. When we were there, in my second voyage, Mr Wales thought +he had discovered that it rose higher than I had observed it to do, +when I first visited Otaheite, in 1769. But the observations we now +made proved that it did not; that is, that it never rose higher +than twelve or fourteen inches at most. And it was observed to be +high-water nearly at noon, as well at the quadratures, as at the full +and change of the moon. + +To verify this, the following observations were made at Ulietea: + + Day of Water at a stand Mean Time Perpendicular + the of rise + Month. from to High Water. Inches. + + November 6. 11h 15m to 12h 20m 11h 48m 5,5 + 7. 11 40 1 00 12 20 5,2 + 8. 11 35 12 50 12 12 5,0 + 9. 11 40 1 16 12 28 5,5 + 10. 11 25 1 10 12 18 6,5 + 11. 12 00 1 40 12 20 5,0 + 12. 11 00 1 05 12 02 5,7 + 13. 9 30 11 40 10 35 8,0 + 14. 11 10 12 50 12 00 8,0 + 15. 9 20 11 30 10 25 9,2 + 16. 10 00 12 00 11 00 9,0 + 17. 10 45 12 15 11 30 8,5 + 18. 10 25 12 10 11 18 9,0 + 19. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8,0 + 20. 11 30 2 00 12 45 7,0 + 21. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8,0 + 22. 11 30 1 07 12 18 8,0 + 23. 12 00 1 30 12 45 6,5 + 24. 11 30 1 40 12 35 5,5 + 25. 11 40 1 50 12 45 4,7 + 26. 11 00 1 30 12 15 5,2 + +Having now finished all that occurs to me, with regard to these +islands, which make so conspicuous a figure in the list of our +discoveries, the reader will permit me to suspend the prosecution of +my journal, while he peruses the following section, for which I am +indebted to Mr Anderson. + + +SECTION IX. + +_Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect.--The prevailing Winds.--Beauty +of the Country.--Cultivation.--Natural Curiosities.--The Persons +of the Natives.--Diseases.--General Character.--Love of +Pleasure.--Language.--Surgery and Physic.--Articles of Food.--Effects +of drinking Ava.--Times and Manner of Eating.--Connexions with the +Females.--Circumcision.--System of Religion.--Notions about the Soul +and a future Life.--Various Superstitions.--Traditions about +the Creation.--An historical Legend.--Honours paid to the +King.--Distinction of Ranks.--Punishment of Crimes.--Peculiarities of +the neighbouring Islands.--Names of their Gods.--Names of Islands they +visit.--Extent of their Navigation._ + +To what has been said of Otaheite, in the accounts of the successive +voyages of Captain Wallis, Mons. de Bougainville, and Captain Cook, it +would, at first sight, seem superfluous to add any thing, as it might +be supposed, that little could be now produced but a repetition of +what has been told before. I am, however, far from being of +that opinion; and will venture to affirm, though a very accurate +description of the country, and of the most obvious customs of its +inhabitants, has been already given, especially by Captain Cook, that +much still remains untouched; that, in some instances, mistakes have +been made, which later and repeated observation has been able to +rectify; and that, even now, we are strangers to many of the most +important institutions that prevail amongst these people. The truth +is, our visits, though frequent, have been but transient; many of us +had no inclination to make enquiries; more of us were unable to direct +our enquiries properly; and we all laboured, though not to the same +degree, under the disadvantages attending an imperfect knowledge +of the language of those, from whom alone we could receive any +information. The Spaniards had it more in their power to surmount +this bar to instruction; some of them having resided at Otaheite +much longer than any other European visitors. As, with their superior +advantages, they could not but have had an opportunity of obtaining +the fullest information on most subjects relating to this island, +their account of it would, probably, convey more authentic and +accurate intelligence, than, with our best endeavours, any of us could +possibly obtain. But, as I look upon it to be very uncertain, if not +very unlikely, that we shall ever have any communication from that +quarter, I have here put together what additional intelligence, about +Otaheite, and its neighbouring islands, I was able to procure, either +from, Omai, while on board the ship, or by conversing with the other +natives, while we remained among them. + +The wind, for the greatest part of the year, blows from between +E.S.E., and E.N.E. This is the true trade-wind, or what the natives +call _Maaraee_; and it sometimes blows with considerable force. When +this is the case, the weather is often cloudy, with showers of rain; +but, when the wind is more moderate, it is clear, settled, and serene. +If the wind should veer farther to the southward, and become S.E., or +S.S.E., it then blows more gently, with a smooth sea, and is called +_Maooui_. In those months, when the sun is nearly vertical, that is, +in December and January, the winds and weather are both very variable; +but it frequently blows from W.N.W., or N.W. This wind is what they +call _Toerou_; and is generally attended by dark, cloudy weather, +and frequently by rain, it sometimes blows strong, though generally +moderate; but seldom lasts longer than five or six days without +interruption; and is the only wind in which the people of the islands +to leeward come to this in their canoes. If it happens to be still +more northerly, it blows with less strength, and has the different +appellation of _Era-potaia_; which they feign to be the wife of the +_Toerou_; who, according to their mythology, is a male. + +The wind from S.W., and W.S.W., is still more frequent than the +former; and, though it is, in general, gentle, and interrupted by +calms, or breezes from the eastward, yet it sometimes blows in brisk +squalls. The weather attending it is commonly dark; cloudy, and +rainy, with a close, hot air; and often accompanied by a great deal +of lightning and thunder. It is called _Etoa_, and often succeeds the +_Toerou_; as does also the _Farooa_, which is still more southerly; +and, from its violence, blows down houses and trees, especially the +cocoa-palms, from their loftiness; but it is only of a short duration. + +The natives seem not to have a very accurate knowledge of these +changes, and yet pretend to have drawn some general conclusions from +their effects; for they say, when the sea has a hollow sound, and +dashes slowly on the shore, or rather on the reef without, that it +portends good weather, but, if it has a sharp sound, and the waves +succeed each other fast, that the reverse will happen. + +Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords a more +luxuriant prospect than the S.E. part of Otaheite. The hills are high +and steep; and, in many places, craggy. But they are covered to +the very summits with trees and shrubs, in such a manner, that the +spectator can scarcely help thinking, that the very rocks possess the +property of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat +land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the interjacent +valleys also, teem with various productions that grow with the most +exuberant vigour, and at once fill the mind of the beholder with the +idea, that no place upon earth can out-do this, in the strength and +beauty of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in distributing +rivulets, which are found in every valley; and as they approach the +sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilizing the flat +lands through which they run. The habitations of the natives are +scattered without order upon these flats; and many of them appearing +toward the shore, presented a delightful scene, viewed from our ships; +especially as the sea within the reef, which bounds the coast, is +perfectly still, and affords a safe navigation at all times for the +inhabitants, who are often seen paddling in their canoes indolently +along in passing from place to place, or in going to fish. On viewing +these charming scenes, I have often regretted my inability to +transmit to those who have had no opportunity of seeing them, such a +description as might, in some measure, convey an impression similar +to what must be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough to be +upon the spot. + +It is doubtless the natural fertility of the country, combined with +the mildness and serenity of the climate, that renders the natives +so careless in their cultivation, that, in many places, though, +overflowing with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it +cannot be observed. The cloth-plant, which is raised by seeds brought +from the mountains, and the _ava_, or intoxicating pepper, which they +defend from the sun when very young, by covering them with leaves of +the bread-fruit tree, are almost the only things to which they seem to +pay any attention, and these they keep very clean. + +I have enquired very carefully into their manner of cultivating the +bread-fruit tree, but was always answered that they never planted it. +This, indeed, must be evident to every one who will examine the places +where the young trees come up. It will be always observed that they +spring from the roots of the old ones, which ran along near the +surface of the ground; so that the bread-fruit trees may be reckoned +those that would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the +island was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked +trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there. And +from this we may observe, that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of +being obliged to plant his bread, will rather be under a necessity of +preventing its progress; which, I suppose, is sometimes done, to give +room for trees of another sort, to afford him some variety in his +food. + +The chief of these are the cocoa-nut and plantain; the first of which +can give no trouble, after it has raised itself a foot or two above +the ground; but the plantain requires a little more care; for, after +it is planted, it shoots up, and, in about three months, begins to +bear fruit; during which time it gives young shoots, which supply a +succession of fruit. For the old stocks are cut down as the fruit is +taken off. + +The products of the island, however, are not so remarkable for their +variety, as great abundance; and curiosities of any kind are not +numerous. Amongst these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water +at the top of one of the highest mountains, to go to and return from +which takes three or four days; it is remarkable for its depth, and +has eels of an enormous size in it, which are sometimes caught by the +natives, who go upon this water, in little floats of two or three wild +plantain trees fastened together. This is esteemed one of the greatest +natural curiosities of the country; insomuch, that travellers, who +come from the other islands, are commonly asked, amongst the first +things, by their friends, at their return, if they have seen it? There +is also a sort of water, of which there is only one small pond upon +the island, as far distant as the lake, and, to appearance, very good, +with a yellow sediment at the bottom; but it has a bad taste, and +proves fatal to those who drink any quantity, or makes them break out +in blotches if they bathe in it. + +Nothing could make a stronger impression, at first sight, on our +arrival here, than the remarkable contrast between the robust make and +dark colour of the people of Tongataboo, and a sort of delicacy and +whiteness which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even +some time before that difference could preponderate in favour of the +Otaheiteans; and then only, perhaps, because we became accustomed +to them, the marks which had recommended the others began to be +forgotten. Their women, however, struck us as superior in every +respect, and as possessing all those delicate characteristics which +distinguish them from, the other sex in many countries. The beard, +which the men here wear long, and the hair, which is not cut so short +as is the fashion at Tongataboo, made also a great difference; and we +could not help thinking that on every occasion they shewed a greater +degree of timidity and fickleness. The muscular appearance, so common +amongst the Friendly Islanders, and which seems a consequence of their +being accustomed to much action, is lost here, where the superior +fertility of their country enables the inhabitants to lead a more +indolent life; and its place is supplied by a plumpness and smoothness +of the skin, which, though perhaps more consonant with our ideas of +beauty, is no real advantage, as it seems attended with a kind of +languor in all their motions, not observable in the others. This +observation is fully verified in their boxing and wrestling, which +may be called little better than the feeble efforts of children, if +compared to the vigour with which these exercises are performed at the +Friendly Islands. + +Personal endowments being in great esteem amongst them, they have +recourse to several methods of improving them, according to their +notions of beauty. In particular, it is a practice, especially among +the _Erreoes_, or unmarried men of some consequence, to undergo a kind +of physical operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining +a month or two in the house; during which time they wear a great +quantity of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they +ascribe a remarkable property in whitening them. They also speak, as +if their corpulence and colour, at other times, depended upon +their food; as they are obliged, from the change of seasons, to use +different sorts at different times. + +Their common diet is made up of, at least, nine-tenths of vegetable +food, and, I believe, more particularly the _mahee_, or fermented +bread-fruit, which enters almost every meal, has a remarkable effect +upon them, preventing a costive habit, and producing a very sensible +coolness about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on +animal food. And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course of +life that they have so few diseases among them. + +They only reckon five or six, which might be called chronic, or +national disorders; amongst which are the dropsy and the _fefai_, or +indolent swellings before mentioned as frequent at Tongataboo. But +this was before the arrival of the Europeans; for we have added to +this short catalogue, a disease which abundantly supplies the place +of all the others; and is now almost universal. For this they seem to +have no effectual remedy. The priests, indeed, sometimes give them a +medley of simples; but they own that it never cures them. And yet +they allow that in a few cases, nature, without the assistance of +a physician, exterminates the poison of this fatal disease, and a +perfect recovery is produced. They say, that if a man is infected +with it, he will often communicate it to others in the same house, by +feeding out of the same utensils or handling them; and that, in this +case, they frequently die, while he recovers; though we see no reason +why this should happen. + +Their behaviour on all occasions seems to indicate a great openness +and generosity of disposition. Omai, indeed, who, as their countryman, +should be supposed rather willing to conceal any of their defects, has +often said that they are sometimes cruel in punishing their enemies. +According to his representation, they torment them very deliberately; +at one time tearing out small pieces of flesh from different parts; at +another taking out the eyes; then cutting off the nose; and, lastly, +killing them by opening the belly. But this only happens on particular +occasions. If cheerfulness argues a conscious innocence, one would +suppose that their life is seldom sullied by crimes. This, however, I +rather impute to their feelings, which, though lively, seem in no case +permanent; for I never saw them, in any misfortune, labour under the +appearance of anxiety after the critical moment was past. Neither +does care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the +approach of death does not appear to alter their usual vivacity. I +have seen them when brought to the brink of the grave by disease, +and when preparing to go to battle; but in neither case ever observed +their countenances overclouded with melancholy or serious reflection. + +Such a disposition leads them to direct all their aims only to what +can give them pleasure and ease. Their amusements all tend to excite +and continue their amorous passions; and their songs, of which they +are immoderately fond, answer the same purpose. But as a constant +succession of sensual enjoyments must cloy, we found, that they +frequently varied them to more refined subjects, and had much pleasure +in chaunting their triumphs in war, and their occupations in peace; +their travels to other islands, and adventures there; and the peculiar +beauties, and superior advantages of their own island over the rest, +or of different parts of it over other less favourite districts. This +marks, that they receive great delight from music; and though they +rather expressed a dislike to our complicated compositions, yet were +they always delighted with the more melodious sounds produced singly +on our instruments, as approaching nearer to the simplicity of their +own. + +Neither are they strangers to the soothing effects produced by +particular sorts of motion, which, in some cases, seem to allay any +perturbation of mind, with as much success as music. Of this, I met +with a remarkable instance. For on walking one day about Matavai +Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small +canoe, so quickly, and looking about with such eagerness, on each +side, as to command all my attention. At first, I imagined that he +had stolen something from one of the ships, and was pursued; but, on +waiting patiently, saw him repeat his amusement. He went out from the +shore, till he was near the place where the swell begins to take its +rise; and, watching its first motion very attentively, paddled before +it, with great quickness, till he found that it overtook him, and +had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before it, without +passing underneath. He then sat motionless, and was carried along, at +the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. +Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of another +swell. I could not help concluding, that this man felt the most +supreme pleasure, while he was driven on, so fast and so smoothly, by +the sea; especially as, though the tents and ships were so near, he +did not seem, in the least, to envy, or even to take any notice of, +the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them as objects which +were rare and curious. During my stay, two or three of the natives +came up, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called out, when +there was an appearance of a favourable swell, as he sometimes missed +it, by his back being turned, and looking about for it. By them +I understood, that this exercise, which is called _ehorooe_, was +frequent amongst them; and they have probably more amusements of this +sort, which afford them at least as much pleasure as skaiting, which +is the only one of ours, with whose effects I could compare it. + +The language of Otaheite, though doubtless radically the same with +that of New Zealand and the Friendly Islands, is destitute of that +guttural pronunciation, and of some consonants, with which those +latter dialects abound. The specimens we have already given are +sufficient to mark wherein the variation chiefly consists, and to +shew, that, like the manners of the inhabitants, it has become soft +and soothing. During the former voyage, I had collected a copious +vocabulary, which enabled me the better to compare this dialect with +that of the other islands; and, during this voyage, I took every +opportunity of improving my acquaintance with it, by conversing with +Omai, before we arrived, and by my daily intercourse with the +natives, while we now remained there.[1] It abounds with beautiful and +figurative expressions, which, were it perfectly known, would, I have +no doubt, put it upon a level with many of the languages that are +most in esteem for their warm and bold images. For instance, the +Otaheiteans express their notions of death very emphatically, by +saying, "That the soul goes into darkness; or rather into night." And, +if you seem to entertain any doubt, in asking the question, "if such a +person is their mother?" they immediately reply, with surprise, "Yes, +the mother that bore me." They have one expression, that corresponds +exactly with the phraseology of the scriptures, where we read of +the "yearning of the bowels." They use it on all occasions, when the +passions give them uneasiness; as they constantly refer pain from +grief, anxious desire, and other affections, to the bowels, as its +seat; where they likewise suppose all operations of the mind are +performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of +words, which so much distinguishes the Latin and Greek from most +of our modern European tongues, whose imperfections require a more +orderly construction, to prevent ambiguities. It is so copious, that +for the bread-fruit alone, in its different states, they have above +twenty names; as many for the _taro_ root; and about ten for the +cocoa-nut. Add to this, that, besides the common dialect, they often +expostulate, in a kind of stanza or recitative, which is answered in +the same manner. + +[Footnote 1: See this Vocabulary at the end of Captain Cook's second +voyage. Many corrections and additions to it were now made by this +indefatigable enquirer; but the specimens of the language of Otaheite, +already in the hands of the public, seem sufficient for every useful +purpose.--D.] + +Their arts are few and simple; yet, if we may credit them, they +perform cures in surgery, which our extensive knowledge in that branch +has not, as yet, enabled us to imitate. In simple fractures, they +bind them up with splints; but if part of the substance of the bone +be lost, they insert a piece of wood, between the fractured ends, made +hollow like the deficient part. In five or six days, the _rapaoo_, or +surgeon, inspects the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with +growing flesh. In as many more days, it is generally entirely covered; +after which, when the patient has acquired some strength, he bathes +in the water, and recovers. We know that wounds will heal over leaden +bullets; and, sometimes, though rarely, over other extraneous +bodies. But what makes me entertain some doubt of the truth of so +extraordinary skill, as in the above instance, is, that in other +cases which fell under my own observation, they are far from being so +dexterous. I have seen the stump of an arm, which was taken off, after +being shattered by a fall from a tree, that bore no marks of +skilful operation, though some allowance be made for their defective +instruments. And I met with a man going about with a dislocated +shoulder, some months after the accident, from their being ignorant +of a method to reduce it; though this be considered as one of the +simplest operations of our surgery. They know that fractures or +luxations of the spine are mortal, but not fractures of the skull; and +they likewise know, from experience, in what parts of the body wounds +prove fatal. They have sometimes pointed out those inflicted by +spears, which, if made in the direction they mentioned, would +certainly have been pronounced deadly by us, and yet these people have +recovered. + +Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and that, probably +because their diseases are fewer than their accidents. The priests, +however, administer the juices of herbs in some cases; and women who +are troubled with after-pains, or other disorders after child-bearing, +use a remedy which one would think needless in a hot country. They +first heat stones, as when they bake their food; then they lay a thick +cloth over them, upon which is put a quantity of a small plant of the +mustard kind; and these are covered with another cloth. Upon this they +seat themselves and sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. The men +have practised the same method for the venereal _lues_, but find it +ineffectual. They have no emetic medicines. + +Notwithstanding the extreme fertility of the island, a famine +frequently happens, in which it is said many perish. Whether this be +owing to the failure of some seasons, to over-population, which must +sometimes almost necessarily happen, or to wars, I have not been able +to determine; though the truth of the fact may fairly be inferred, +from the great economy that they observe with respect to their +food, even when there is plenty. In times of scarcity, after their +bread-fruit and yams are consumed, they have recourse to various +roots, which grow without cultivation upon the mountains. The +_patarra_, which is found in vast quantities, is what they use first. +It is not unlike a very large potatoe or yam, and good when in its +growing state; but when old, is full of hard stringy fibres. They then +eat two other roots, one not unlike _taro_; and lastly, the _eohee_. +This is of two sorts; one of them possessing deleterious qualities, +which obliges them to slice and macerate it in water a night before +they bake and eat it. In this respect, it resembles the _cassava_ root +of the West Indies; but it forms a very insipid moist paste, in the +manner they dress it. However, I have seen them eat it at times when +no such scarcity reigned. Both this and the _patarra_ are creeping +plants: the last with ternate leaves. + +Of animal food a very small portion falls at any time to the share of +the lower class of people, and then it is either fish, sea-eggs, or +other marine productions; for they seldom or ever eat pork. The _Eree +de hoi_[2] alone is able to furnish pork every day; and inferior +chiefs, according to their riches, once a week, fortnight, or month. +Sometimes they are not even allowed that; for, when the island is +impoverished by war or other causes, the chief prohibits his subjects +to kill any hogs; and this prohibition, we were told, is in force +sometimes for several months, or even for a year or two. During that +restraint the hogs multiply so fast, that there are instances of their +changing their domestic state, and turning wild. When it is thought +proper to take off the prohibition, all the chiefs assemble at the +king's place of abode, and each brings with him a present of hogs. The +king then orders some of them to be killed, on which they feast; +and, after that, every one returns home with liberty to kill what he +pleases for his own use. Such a prohibition was actually in force on +our last arrival here; at least in all those districts of the island +that are immediately under the direction of Otoo. And, lest it should +have prevented our going to Matavai after leaving Oheitepeha, he sent +a message to assure us, that it should be taken off as soon as the +ships arrived there. With respect to us we found it so; but we made +such a consumption of them, that, I have no doubt, it would be laid +on again as soon as we sailed. A similar prohibition is also sometimes +extended to fowls. + +[Footnote 2: Mr Anderson, invariably in his manuscript, writes _Eree +de hoi_. According to Captain Cook's mode, it is _Eree rahie_. This is +one of the numerous instances that perpetually occur, of our people's +representing the same word differently.--D.] + +It is also amongst the better sort that the _ava_ is chiefly used. But +this beverage is prepared somewhat differently, from that which we +saw so much of at the Friendly Islands. For they pour a very small +quantity of water upon the root here, and sometimes roast or bake and +bruise the stalks, without chewing it previously to its infusion. They +also use the leaves of the plant here, which are bruised, and water +poured upon them, as upon the root. Large companies do not assemble +to drink it in that sociable way which is practised at Tongataboo. +But its pernicious effects are more obvious here; perhaps owing to the +manner of preparing it, as we often saw instances of its intoxicating, +or rather stupifying powers. Some of us, who had been at these islands +before, were surprised to find many people, who, when we saw them +last, were remarkable for their size and corpulency, now almost +reduced to skeletons; and, upon enquiring into the cause of this +alteration, it was universally allowed to be the use of the _ava_. The +skins of these people were rough, dry, and covered with scales, which, +they say, every now and then fall off, and their skin is, as it were, +renewed. As an excuse for a practice so destructive, they allege, +that it is adopted to prevent their growing too fat; but it evidently +enervates them, and, in all probability, shortens their days. As its +effects had not been so visible during our former visits, it is not +unlikely that this article of luxury had never been so much abused as +at this time. If it continues to be so fashionable, it bids fair to +destroy great numbers. + +The times of eating at Otaheite are very frequent. Their first meal, +or (as it may rather be called) their last, as they go to sleep after +it, is about two o'clock in the morning; and the next is at eight. +At eleven, they dine; and again, as Omai expressed it, at two, and at +five; and sup at eight. In this article of domestic life, they have +adopted some customs which are exceedingly whimsical. The women, for +instance, have not only the mortification of being obliged to eat by +themselves, and in a different part of the house from the men, but, +by a strange kind of policy, are excluded from a share of most of +the better sorts of food. They dare not taste turtle, nor fish of the +tunny kind, which is much esteemed; nor some particular sorts of the +best plantains; and it is very seldom that even those of the first +rank are suffered to eat pork. The children of each sex also eat +apart; and the women generally serve up their own victuals; for they +would certainly starve before any grown man would do them such an +office. In this, as well as in some other customs relative to their +eating, there is a mysterious conduct which we could never thoroughly +comprehend. When we enquired into the reasons of it, we could get no +other answer, but that it is right and necessary that it should be so. + +In other customs respecting the females, there seems to be no such +obscurity; especially as to their connexions with the men. If a young +man and woman, from mutual choice, cohabit, the man gives the father +of the girl such things as are necessary in common life; as hogs, +cloth, or canoes, in proportion to the time they are together; and, if +he thinks that he has not been sufficiently paid for his daughter, he +makes no scruple of forcing her to leave her friend, and to cohabit +with another person who may be more liberal. The man, on his part, is +always at liberty to make a new choice; but, should his consort become +pregnant, he may kill the child; and, after that, either continue his +connexion with the mother, or leave her. But if he should adopt the +child, and suffer it to live, the parties are then considered as +in the married state, and they commonly live together ever after. +However, it is thought no crime in the man to join a more youthful +partner to his first wife, and to live with both. The custom of +changing their connexions is, however, much more general than this +last; and it is a thing so common, that they speak of it with great +indifference. The _Erreoes_ are only those of the better sort, who, +from their fickleness, and their possessing the means of purchasing +a succession of fresh connexions, are constantly roaming about; and, +from having no particular attachment, seldom adopt the more settled +method mentioned above. And so agreeable is this licentious plan of +life to their disposition, that the most beautiful of both sexes thus +commonly spend their youthful days, habituated to the practice of +enormities which would disgrace the most savage tribes; but are +peculiarly shocking amongst a people whose general character, in other +respects, has evident traces of the prevalence of humane and tender +feelings.[3] When an _Erreoe_ woman is delivered of a child, a piece +of cloth, dipped in water, is applied to the mouth and nose, which +suffocates it. + +[Footnote 3: That the Caroline Islands are inhabited by the same tribe +or nation, whom Captain Cook found, it such immense distances, +spread throughout the South Pacific Ocean, has been satisfactorily +established in some preceding notes The situation of the Ladrones, or +Marianne Islands, still farther north than the Carolines, but at +no great distance from them, is favourable, at first sight, to the +conjecture, that the same race also peopled that cluster; and, on +looking into Father Le Gobien's history of them, this conjecture +appears to be actually confirmed by direct evidence. One of the +greatest singularities of the Otaheite manners, is the existence of +the society of young men called _Erreoes_, of whom some account is +given in the preceding paragraph. Now we learn from Father Le Gobien, +that such a society exists also amongst the inhabitants of the +Ladrones. His words are: _Les Urritoes sont parmi eux les jeuns gens +qui vivent avec des maitresses, sans vouloir s'engager dans les liens +du mariage_. That there should be young men in the Ladrones, as well +as in Otaheite, _who live with mistresses, without being inclined to +enter into the married state_, would not, indeed, furnish the shadow +of any peculiar resemblance between them. But that the young men in +the Ladrones, and in Otaheite, whose manners are thus licentious, +should be considered as a distinct confraternity, called by a +particular name; and that this name should be the same in both places: +this singular coincidence of custom, confirmed by that of language, +seems to furnish an irrefragable proof of the inhabitants of both +places being the same nation. We know, that it is the general property +of the Otaheite dialect, to soften the pronunciation of its words. +And, it is observable, that, by the omission of one single letter (the +consonant t), our _Arreoys_ (as spelled in Hawkesworth's collection), +or _Erreoes_ (according to Mr Anderson's orthography), and the +_Urritoes_ of the Ladrones, are brought to such a similitude of sound +(the only rule of comparing two unwritten languages), that we may +pronounce them to be the same word, without exposing ourselves to the +sneers of supercilious criticism. + +One or two more such proofs, drawn from similarity of language, in +very significant words, may be assigned. Le Gobien tells us, that the +people of the Ladrones worship their dead, whom they call _Anitis_. +Here, again, by dropping the consonant _n_, we have a word that bears +a strong resemblance to that which so often occurs in Captain Cook's +voyages, when speaking of the divinities of his islands, whom he calls +_Eatooas_. And it may be matter of curiosity to remark, that what +is called an _Aniti_, at the Ladrones, is, as we learn from Cantova +(_Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 309, 310.) at the +Caroline Islands, where dead chiefs are also worshipped, called a +_Tahutup_; and that, by softening or sinking the strong sounding +letters, at the beginning and at the end of this latter word, the +_Ahutu_ of the Carolines, the _Aiti_ of the Ladrones, and the +_Eatooa_ of the South Pacific Islands, assume such a similarity in +pronunciation (for we can have no other guide), as strongly marks one +common original. Once more; we learn from Le Gobien, that the Marianne +people call their chiefs _Chamorris_, or _Chamoris_. And by softening +the aspirate _Ch_ into _T_, and the harshness of _r_ into _l_ (of +which the vocabularies of the different islands give us repeated +instances), we have the _Tamole_ of the Caroline Islands, and the +_Tamolao_, or _Tamaha_, of the Friendly ones. + +If these specimens of affinity of language should be thought too +scanty, some very remarkable instances of similarity of customs and +institutions will go far to remove every doubt. 1. A division into +three classes, of nobles, of middle rank, and the common people, or +servants, was found, by Captain Cook, to prevail, both at the Friendly +and the Society Islands. Father Le Gobien expressly tells us, that the +same distinction prevails at the Ladrones: _Il y a trois états, parmi +les insulaires, la noblesse, le moyen, et le menu._ 2. Numberless +instances occur in Captain Cook's voyage to prove the great subjection +under which the people of his islands are to their chiefs. We learn +from Le Gobien, that it is so also at the Ladrones: _La noblesse est +d'un fierté incroyable, et tien le peuple dans un abaisement qu'on ne +pourroit imaginer en Europe_, &c. 3. The diversions of the natives +at Wateeo, the Friendly, and the Society Islands, have been copiously +described by Captain Cook. How similar are those which Le Gobien +mentions in the following words, as prevailing at the Ladrones!--_Ils +se divertissent à danser, courir, sautir, lutter, pour s'exercer, +et éprouver leur forces. Ils prennent grand plaisir à raconter les +avantures de leurs ancétres, et à reciter des vers de leurs poëtes._ +4. The principal share sustained by the women, in the entertainments +at Captain Cook's islands, appears sufficiently from a variety of +instances in this work; and we cannot read what Le Gobien says of +the practice at the Ladrones, without tracing the strongest +resemblance--_Dans leurs assemblées elles se mettent doux ou trieze +femmes en rond, debout, sans se remuer. Dans cette attitude elles +chantent les vers fabuleux de leurs poëtes avec un agrément, et une +justesse qui plairoit en Europe. L'accord de leur voix est admirable, +et ne cede en rien à la musique concertée. Elles ont dans les mains +de petits coquilles, dont elles se servent avec beaucoup de precision. +Elles soutiennent leur voix, et animent leur chants avec une action +si vive, et des gestes si expressives, qu'elles charment ceux qui +les voient, et qui les entendent._ 5. We read in Captain Cook's first +voyage, that at Otaheite garlands of the fruit of the palm-tree and +cocoa-leaves, with other things particularly consecrated to funeral +solemnities, are deposited about the places where they lay their dead; +and that provisions and water are also left at a little distance. How +conformable to this is the practice at the Ladrones, as described +by Le Gobien!--_Ils font quelques repas autour du tombeau; car on +en eleve toujours un sur le lieu ou le corps est enterré, ou dans +le voisinage; on le charge de fleurs, de branches de palmiers, de +coquillages, et de tout ce qu'ils ont de plus precieux._ 6. It is the +custom at Otaheite not to bury the skulls of the chiefs with the rest +of the bones, but to put them into boxes made for that purpose. Here +again, we find the same strange custom prevailing at the Ladrones; +for Le Gobien expressly tells us, _qui'ls gardent les cranes, en leur +maisons_, that they put these skulls into little baskets (_petites +corbeilles_); and that these dead chiefs are the _Anitis_, to whom +their priests address their invocations. 7. The people at Otaheite, as +we learn from Captain Cook, in his account of Tee's embalmed corpse, +make use of cocoa-nut oil, and other ingredients, in rubbing the +dead bodies. The people of the Ladrones, Father Le Gobien tells +us, sometimes do the same--_D'autres frottent les morts d'huile +odoriferante._ 8. The inhabitants of Otaheite believe the immortality +of the soul; and that there are two situations after death, somewhat +analogous to our heaven and hell; but they do not suppose, that their +actions here in the least influence their future state. And in the +account given in this Voyage of the religious opinions entertained at +the Friendly Islands, we find there exactly the same doctrine. It +is very observable, how conformable to this is the belief of the +inhabitants of the Ladrones--_Ils sont persuadés_ (says Le Gobien) _de +l'immortalité de l'áme. Ils reconnoissent même un Paradis et un Enfer, +dont ils se forment des idées assez bizarres. Ce n'est point, selon +eux, la vertu ni le crime, qui conduit dans ces lieux là; les bonnes +ou les mauvaises actions n'y servent de rien._ 9. One more very +singular instance of agreement shall close this long list. In Captain +Cook's account of the New Zealanders, we find that, according to them, +the soul of the man who is killed, and whose flesh is devoured, is +doomed to a perpetual fire; while the souls of all who die a natural +death, ascend to the habitations of the gods. And, from Le Gobien, we +learn that this very notion is adopted by his islanders--_Si on a le +malkeur de mourir de mort violente, on a l'enfer pour leur portage._ + +Surely such a concurrence of very characteristic conformities cannot +be the result of mere accident; and, when combined with the specimens +of affinity of language mentioned at the beginning of this note, +it should seem that we are fully warranted, from premises thus +unexceptionable, to draw a certain conclusion, that the inhabitants of +the various islands discovered or visited by Captain Cook in the South +Pacific Ocean, and those whom the Spaniards found settled upon the +Ladrones or Mariannes, in the northern hemisphere, carried the same +language, customs, and opinions from one common centre, from which +they had emigrated; and that, therefore, they may be considered as +scattered members of the same nation. + +See Pere Le Gobien's _Histoire des Iles Mariannes_, Book ii. or the +summary of it in _Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Australes_, +T. ii. p. 492-512, from which the materials for this note have been +extracted.--D.] + +As in such a life, their women must contribute a very large share +of its happiness, it is rather surprising, besides the humiliating +restraints they are laid under with regard to food, to find them often +treated with a degree of harshness, or rather brutality, which one +would scarcely suppose a man would bestow on an object for whom he had +the least affection. Nothing, however, is more common, than to see the +men beat them without mercy; and, unless this treatment is the effect +of jealousy, which both sexes, at least, pretend to be sometimes +infected with, it will be difficult to account for it. It will be +less difficult to admit this as the motive, as I have seen several +instances where the women have preferred personal beauty to interest; +though, I must own, that even in these cases, they seem scarcely +susceptible of those delicate sentiments that are the result of +mutual affection; and, I believe, that there is less Platonic love in +Otaheite than in any other country. + +Cutting, or inciding the foreskin, should be mentioned here as a +practice adopted amongst them from a notion of cleanliness; and they +have a reproachful epithet in their language for those who do not +observe that custom. When there are five or six lads pretty well grown +up in a neighbourhood, the father of one of them goes to a _Tahoua_, +or man of knowledge, and lets him know. He goes with the lads to +the top of the hills, attended by a servant, and seating one of them +properly, introduces a piece of wood underneath the foreskin, and +desires him to look aside at something he pretends is coming; having +thus engaged the young man's attention to another object, he cuts +through the skin upon the wood with a shark's tooth, generally at one +stroke. He then separates, or rather turns back the divided parts; and +having put on a bandage, proceeds to perform the same operation on the +other lads. At the end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being +taken off, the matter is cleaned away. At the end of five days more +they bathe again, and are well; but a thickness of the prepuce, +where it was cut, remaining, they go again to the mountains with +the _Tahoua_ and servant; and a fire being prepared, and some stones +heated, the _Tahoua_ puts the prepuce between two of them, and +squeezes it gently, which removes the thickness. They then return +home, having their heads, and other parts of their bodies, adorned +with odoriferous flowers; and the _Tahoua_ is rewarded for his +services by their fathers, in proportion to their several abilities, +with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be poor, their relations +are liberal on the occasion. + +Their religious system is extensive, and, in many instances, singular; +but few of the common people have a perfect knowledge of it; that +being confined chiefly to their priests, who are pretty numerous. They +do not seem to pay respect to one god, as possessing pre-eminence; but +believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very powerful; and +in this case, as different parts of the island, and the other islands +in the neighbourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each, no +doubt, think that they have chosen the most eminent, or, at least, one +who is invested with power sufficient to protect them, and to supply +all their wants. If he should not answer their expectations, they +think it no impiety to change; as has very lately happened in +Tiarabooa, where, in the room of the two divinities formerly honoured +there, Oraa,[4] god of Bolabola, had been adopted, I should suppose, +because he is the protector of a people who have been victorious in +war; and as, since they have made this change, they have been very +successful themselves against the inhabitants of _Otaheite-nooe_, they +impute it entirely to _Oraa_, who, as they literally say, fights their +battles. + +[Footnote 4: We have another instance of the same word being +differently pronounced by our people. Captain Cook, as appears above, +speaks of _Olla_ as the Bolabola god.--D.] + +Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not +only the _whattas_, or offering-places of the _morais_, are commonly +loaded with fruits and animals, but there are few houses where you do +not meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them +are so rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without +first laying aside a morsel for the _Eatooa_; and we had an +opportunity, during this voyage, of seeing their superstitious +zeal carried to a most pernicious height, in the instance of human +sacrifices; the occasions of offering which, I doubt, are too +frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to them when misfortunes occur; +for they asked, if one of our men, who happened to be confined, when +we were detained by a contrary wind, was _taboo_? Their prayers are +also very frequent, which they chaunt, much after the manner of their +songs in their festive entertainments. And the women, as in other +cases, are also obliged to shew their inferiority in religious +observances; for it is required of them, that they should partly +uncover themselves as they pass the _morais_, or take a considerable +circuit to avoid them. Though they have no notion that their god must +always be conferring benefits, without sometimes forgetting them, or +suffering evil to befall them, they seem to regard this less than the +attempts of some more inauspicious being to hurt them. They tell us, +that _Etee_ is an evil spirit, who sometimes does them mischief; +and to whom, as well as to their god, they make offerings. But the +mischiefs they apprehend from any superior invisible beings, are +confined to things merely temporal. + +They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. They say +that it keeps fluttering about the lips during the pangs of death; and +that then it ascends and mixes with, or, as they express it, is eaten +by the deity. In this state it remains for some time; after which it +departs to a certain place, destined for the reception of the souls +of men where it exists in eternal night; or, as they sometimes say, in +twilight or dawn. They have no idea of any permanent punishment after +death, for crimes that they have committed on earth; for the souls +of good and of bad men are eat indiscriminately by God. But they +certainly consider this coalition with the deity as a kind of +purification necessary to be undergone before they enter a state of +bliss. For, according to their doctrine, if a man refrain from all +connexion with women some months before death, he passes immediately +into his eternal mansion, without such a previous union; as if +already, by this abstinence, he were pure enough to be exempted from +the general lot. + +They are, however, far from entertaining those sublime conceptions +of happiness, which our religion, and indeed reason, gives us room +to expect hereafter. The only great privilege they seem to think +they shall acquire by death is immortality; for they speak of spirits +being, in some measure, not totally divested of those passions which +actuated them when combined with material vehicles. Thus, if souls, +who were formerly enemies, should meet, they have many conflicts; +though, it should seem, to no purpose, as they are accounted +invulnerable in this invisible state. There is a similar reasoning +with regard to the meeting of man and wife. If the husband dies first, +the soul of the wife is known to him on its arrival in the land of +spirits. They resume their former acquaintance, in a spacious house, +called _tourooa_, where the souls of the deceased assemble to recreate +themselves with the gods. She then retires with him, to his separate +habitation, where they remain for ever, and have an offspring; which, +however, is entirely spiritual, as they are neither married, nor are +their embraces supposed to be the same as with corporeal beings. + +Some of their notions about the deity are extravagantly absurd: They +believe that he is subject to the power of those very spirits to whom +he has given existence; and that, in their turn, they frequently eat +or devour him, though he possess the power of re-creating himself. +They doubtless use this mode of expression, as they seem incapable of +conversing about immaterial things, without constantly referring to +material objects to convey their meaning. And in this manner they +continue the account, by saying, that, in the _tourooa_, the deity +enquires if they intend, or not, to destroy him? And that he is not +able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants on +earth, as well as to the spirits; for when the moon is in its wane, +it is said that they are then devouring their _Eatooa_; and that as it +increases he is renewing himself. And to this accident, not only the +inferior, but the most eminent gods are liable. They also believe, +that there are other places for the reception of souls at death. Thus, +those who are drowned in the sea remain there; where they think that +there is a fine country, houses, and every thing that can make them +happy. But, what is more singular, they maintain, that not only all +other animals, but trees, fruit, and even stones, have souls, which at +death, or upon being consumed or broken, ascend to the divinity, with +whom they first mix, and afterwards pass into the mansion allotted to +each. + +They imagine that their punctual performance of religious offices +procures for them every temporal blessing. And as they believe that +the animating and powerful influence of the divine spirit is +every where diffused, it is no wonder that they join to this many +superstitious opinions about its operations. Accordingly, they believe +that sudden deaths, and all other accidents, are effected by the +immediate action of some divinity. If a man only stumble against a +stone and hurt his toe, they impute it to an _Eatooa_; so that they +may be literally said, agreeably to their system, to tread enchanted +ground. They are startled in the night on approaching a _toopapaoo_, +where the dead are exposed, in the same manner that many of our +ignorant and superstitious people are with the apprehensions of +ghosts, and at the sight of a church-yard; and they have an equal +confidence in dreams, which they suppose to be communications either +from their god, or from the spirits of their departed friends, +enabling those favoured with them to foretell future events; but this +kind of knowledge is confined to particular people. Omai pretended to +have his gift. He told us, that the soul of his father had intimated +to him in a dream, on the 26th of July 1776, that he should go on +shore at some place within three days; but he was unfortunate in this +first attempt to persuade us that he was a prophet; for it was the +1st of August before we got into Teneriffe. Amongst them, however, +the dreamers possess a reputation little inferior to that of their +inspired priests and priestesses, whose predictions they implicitly +believe, and are determined by them in all undertakings of +consequence. The priestess who persuaded Opoony to invade Ulietea, +is much respected by him; and he never goes to war without consulting +her. They also, in some degree, maintain our old doctrine of planetary +influence; at least, they are sometimes regulated in their public +counsels by certain appearances of the moon; particularly when lying +horizontally, or much inclined on the convex part, on its first +appearance after the change, they are encouraged to engage in war with +confidence of success. + +They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as might be +expected, are complex and clouded with obscurity. They say, that a +goddess, having a lump or mass of earth suspended in a cord, gave it a +swing, and scattered about pieces of land, thus constituting Otaheite +and the neighbouring islands, which were all peopled by a man and +woman, originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, only respects +their own immediate creation; for they have notions of an universal +one before this; and of lands, of which they have now no other +knowledge than what is mentioned in the tradition. Their most remote +account reaches to Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones or +rocks, who support the congeries of land and water, or our globe +underneath. These produced Totorro, who was killed, and divided into +land; and after him Otaia and Oroo were begotten, who were afterward +married, and produced, first, land, and then a race of gods. Otaia is +killed, and Oroo marries a god, her son, called Teorrhaha, whom she +orders to create more land, the animals, and all sorts of food found +upon the earth; as also the sky, which is supported by men called +Teeferei. The spots observed in the moon, are supposed to be groves +of a sort of trees which once grew in Otaheite, and being destroyed +by some accident, their seeds were carried up thither by doves, where +they now flourish. + +They have also many legends, both religious and historical; one of +which latter, relative to the practice of eating human flesh, I shall +give the substance of, as a specimen of their method. A long time +since there lived in Otaheite two men, called _Taheeai_, the only name +they yet have for cannibals; none knew from whence they came, or in +what manner they arrived at the island. Their habitation was in +the mountains, from whence they used to issue, and kill many of the +natives, whom they afterward devoured, and by that means prevented the +progress of population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country +of such a formidable enemy, used a stratagem for their destruction, +with success. These still lived farther upward than the _Taheeai_, and +in such a situation that they could speak with them without greatly +hazarding their own safety; they invited them to accept of an +entertainment that should be provided for them, to which these readily +consented. The brothers then taking some stones, heated them in a +fire, and thrusting them into pieces of _mahee_, desired one of the +_Taheeai_ to open his mouth; on which one of these pieces was dropped +in, and some water poured down, which made a boiling or hissing noise, +in quenching the stone, and killed him. They entreated the other to +do the same; but he declined it, representing the consequences of +his companion's eating. However, they assured him that the food was +excellent, and its effects only temporary; for that the other would +soon recover. His credulity was such that be swallowed the bait, and +shared the fate of the first. The natives then cut them in pieces, +which they buried; and conferred the government of the island on the +brothers, as a reward for delivering them from such monsters. Their +residence was in the district called Whapaeenoo; and to this day there +remains a bread-fruit tree, once the property of the _Taheeais_. +They had also a woman, who lived with them, and had two teeth of +a prodigious size. After they were killed, she lived at the island +Otaha; and when dead, was ranked amongst their deities. She did not +eat human flesh, as the men; but, from the size of her teeth, the +natives still call any animal that has a fierce appearance, or is +represented with large tusks, _Taheeai_. + +Every one must allow that this story is just as natural as that of +Hercules destroying the hydra, or the more modern one of Jack the +giant-killer. But I do not find that there is any moral couched under +it, any more than under most old fables of the same kind, which +have been received as truths only during the prevalence of the same +ignorance that marked the character of the ages in which they were +invented. It, however, has not been improperly introduced, as serving +to express the horror and detestation entertained here against those +who feed upon human flesh. And yet, from some circumstances, I have +been led to think that the natives of these isles were formerly +cannibals. Upon asking Omai, he denied it stoutly; yet mentioned a +fact, within his own knowledge, which almost confirms such an opinion. +When the people of Bolabola, one time, defeated those of Huaheine, a +great number of his kinsmen were slain. But one of his relations had, +afterward, an opportunity of revenging himself, when the Bolabola men +were worsted in their turn, and cutting a piece out of the thigh of +one of his enemies, he broiled, and eat it. I have also frequently +considered the offering of the person's eye, who is sacrificed, to the +chief, as a vestige of a custom which once really existed to a greater +extent, and is still commemorated by this emblematical ceremony. + +The being invested with the _maro_, and the presiding at human +sacrifices, seem to be the peculiar characteristics of the sovereign. +To these, perhaps, may be added the blowing a conch-shell, which +produces a very loud sound. On hearing it, all his subjects are +obliged to bring food of every sort to his royal residence, in +proportion to their abilities. On some other occasions, they carry +their veneration for his very name to an extravagant and very +destructive pitch. For if, on his accession to the _maro_, any words +in their language be found to have a resemblance to it in sound, they +are changed for others; and if any man be bold enough not to comply, +and continue to use those words, not only he, but all his relations, +are immediately put to death. The same severity is exercised toward +those who shall presume to apply this sacred name to any animal. And, +agreeably to this custom of his countrymen, Omai used to express +his indignation, that the English should give the names of prince or +princess to their favourite horses or dogs. But while death is the +punishment for making free with the name of their sovereign, if abuse +be only levelled at his government, the offender escapes with the +forfeiture of lands and houses. + +The king never enters the house of any of his subjects, but has, in +every district where he visits, houses belonging to himself. And if, +at any time, he should be obliged by accident to deviate from this +rule, the house thus honoured with his presence, and every part of +its furniture, is burnt. His subjects not only uncover to him, when +present, down to the waist; but if he be at any particular place, a +pole, having a piece of cloth tied to it, is set up somewhere near, to +which they pay the same honours. His brothers are also entitled to the +first part of the ceremony; but the women only uncover to the females +of the royal family. In short, they seem even superstitious in their +respect to him, and esteem his person little less than sacred. And it +is, perhaps, to these circumstances, that he owes the quiet possession +of his dominions. For even the people of Tiaraboo allow him the same +honours as his right; though, at the same time, they look upon their +own chief as more powerful; and say, that he would succeed to the +government of the whole island, should the present reigning family +become extinct. This is the more likely, as Waheiadooa not only +possesses Tiaraboo, but many districts of Opooreanoo. His territories, +therefore, are almost equal in extent to those of Otoo; and he has, +besides, the advantage of a more populous and fertile part of the +island. His subjects, also, have given proofs of their superiority, +by frequent victories over those of Otaheite-nooe, whom they affect +to speak of as contemptible warriors, easily to be worsted, if at any +time their chief should wish to put it to the test. + +The ranks of people, besides the _Eree de hoi_ and his family, are +the _Erees_, or powerful chiefs; the _Manahoone_, or vassals; and the +_Teou_, or _Toutou_, servants, or rather slaves. The men of each of +these, according to the regular institution, form their connexions +with women of their respective ranks; but if with any inferior one, +which frequently happens, and a child be born, it is preserved, and +has the rank of the father, unless he happens to be an _Eree_, in +which case it is killed. If a woman of condition should choose an +inferior person to officiate as a husband, the children he has by her +are killed. And if a _Teou_ be caught in an intrigue with a woman +of the blood-royal, he is put to death. The son of the _Eree de hoi_ +succeeds his father in title and honours as soon as he is born; but if +he should have no children, the brother assumes the government at his +death. In other families, possessions always descend to the eldest +son; but he is obliged to maintain his brothers and sisters, who are +allowed houses on his estates. + +The boundaries of the several districts, into which Otaheite is +divided, are, generally, either rivulets, or low hills, which, in many +places, jut out into the sea. But the subdivisions into particular +property, are marked by large stones, which have remained from one +generation to another. The removal of any of these gives rise to +quarrels, which are decided by arms; each party bringing his friends +into the field. But if any one complain to the _Eree de hoi_, he +terminates the difference amicably. This is an offence, however, not +common; and long custom seems to secure property here as effectually +as the most severe laws do in other countries. In conformity also to +ancient practice established amongst them, crimes of a less general +nature are left to be punished by the sufferer, without referring +them to a superior. In this case, they seem to think that the injured +person will judge as equitably as those who are totally unconcerned; +and as long custom has allotted certain punishments for crimes of +different sorts, he is allowed to inflict them, without being amenable +to any other person. Thus, if any one be caught stealing, which is +commonly done in the night, the proprietor of the goods may put the +thief instantly to death; and if any one should enquire of him after +the deceased, it is sufficient to acquit him, if he only informs them +of the provocation he had to kill him. But so severe a punishment is +seldom inflicted, unless the articles that are stolen be reckoned very +valuable; such as breast-plates and plaited hair. If only cloth, or +even hogs, be stolen, and the thief escape, upon his being afterward +discovered, if he promise to return the same number of pieces of +cloth, or of hogs, no farther punishment is inflicted. Sometimes, +after keeping out of the way for a few days, he is forgiven, or, at +most, gets a slight beating. If a person kill another in a quarrel, +the friends of the deceased assemble, and engage the survivor and his +adherents. If they conquer, they take possession of the house, lands, +and goods of the other party; but if conquered, the reverse takes +place. If a _Manahoone_ kill the _Toutou_, or slave of a chief, the +latter sends people to take possession of the lands and house of the +former, who flies either to some other part of the island, or to some +of the neighbouring islands. After some months he returns, and finding +his stock of hogs much increased, he offers a large present of these, +with some red feathers, and other valuable articles, to the _Toutou_'s +master, who generally accepts the compensation, and permits him to +repossess his house and lands. This practice is the height of venality +and injustice; and the slayer of the slave seems to be under no +farther necessity of absconding, than to impose upon the lower class +of people, who are the sufferers. For it does not appear that the +chief has the least power to punish this _Manahoone_; but the whole +management marks a collusion between him and his superior, to gratify +the revenge of the former, and the avarice of the latter. Indeed, we +need not wonder that the killing of a man should be considered as +so venial an offence, amongst a people who do not consider it as any +crime at all to murder their own children. When talking to them, about +such instances of unnatural cruelty, and asking, whether the chiefs or +principal people were not angry, and did not punish them? I was told, +that the chief neither could nor would interfere in such cases; and +that every one had a right to do with his own child what he pleased. + +Though the productions, the people, and the customs and manners of +all the islands in the neighbourhood, may, in general, be reckoned +the same as at Otaheite, there are a few differences which should be +mentioned, as this may lead to an enquiry about more material ones +hereafter, if such there be, of which we are now ignorant. + +With regard to the little island Mataia, or Osnaburgh Island, which +lies twenty leagues east of Otaheite, and belongs to a chief of that +place, who gets from thence a kind of tribute, a different dialect +from that of Otaheite is there spoken. The men of Mataia also wear +their hair very long; and when they fight, cover their arms with a +substance which is beset with sharks' teeth, and their bodies with +a sort of shagreen, being skin of fishes. At the same time they +are ornamented with polished pearl-shells, which make a prodigious +glittering in the sun; and they have a very large one, that covers +them before, like a shield or breast plate. + +The language of Otaheite has many words, and even phrases, quite +unlike those of the islands to the westward of it, which all agree; +and this island is remarkable for producing great quantities of that +delicious fruit we call apples, which are found in none of the others, +except Eimeo. It has also the advantage of producing an odoriferous +wood, called _eahoi_, which is highly valued at the other isles, where +there is none; nor even in the south-east peninsula, or Tiaraboo, +though joining it. Huaheine and Eimeo, again, are remarkable for +producing greater quantities of yams than the other islands. And +at Mourooa there is a particular bird, found upon the hills, much +esteemed for its white feathers; at which place there is also said +to be some of the apples, though it be the most remote of the Society +Islands from Otaheite and Eimeo, where they are produced. + +Though the religion of all the islands be the same, each of them has +its particular, or tutelar god; whose names, according to the best +information I could receive, are set down in the following list: + + _Gods of the Isles_, + + Huaheine, _Tanne._ + Ulietea, _Oore._ + Otaha, _Tanne._ + Bolabola, _Oraa._ + Mourooa, _Otoo, ee weiahoo._ + Toobaee, _Tamouee._ + Tabooymanoo, or Saunders's \ + Island, which } _Taroa._ + is subject to Huaheine,/ + Eimeo, _Oroo hadoo._ + + Otaheite-nooe,} _Ooroo._ + Otaheite, { + Tiaraboo, } {_Opoonooa_ and whom they have + {_Whatooteeree_, { lately changed + for Oraa, god + of Bolabola. + + Mataia or Osnaburgh _Tooboo, toobooai, Ry maraiva._ + Island + + The Low Isles, Eastward _Tammaree._ + +Besides the cluster of high islands from Mataia to Mourooa inclusive, +the people of Otaheite are acquainted with a low uninhabited island, +which they name Mopeeha, and seems to be Howe's Island, laid down to +the westward of Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the +inhabitants of the most leeward islands sometimes go. There are also +several low islands, to the north-eastward of Otaheite, which they +have sometimes visited, but not constantly; and are said to be only at +the distance of two days' sail, with a fair wind. They were thus named +to me: + + Mataeeva, + Oanaa, called Oannah, in Dalrymple's letter to Hawkesworth + Taboohoe, + Awehee, + Kaoora, + Orootooa, + Otavaoo, where are large pearls. + +The inhabitants of these isles come more frequently to Otaheite and +the other neighbouring high islands, from whose natives they differ +in being of a darker colour, with a fiercer aspect, and differently +punctured. I was informed, that at Mataeeva, and others of them, it is +a custom for the men to give their daughters to strangers who arrive +amongst them; but the pairs must be five nights lying near each other, +without presuming to proceed farther. On the sixth evening, the +father of the young woman, treats his guest with food, and informs his +daughter, that she must, that night, receive him as her husband. The +stranger, however, must not offer to express the least dislike, though +the bed-fellow allotted to him should be ever so disagreeable; for +this is considered as an unpardonable affront, and is punished with +death. Forty men of Bolabola, who, incited by curiosity, had roamed as +far as Mataeeva in a canoe, were treated in this manner; one of them +having incautiously mentioned his dislike of the woman who fell to his +lot, in the hearing of a boy, who informed her father. In consequence +of this the Mateevans fell upon them; but these warlike people killed +three times their own number; though with the loss of all their +party, except five. These hid themselves in the woods, and took an +opportunity, when the others were burying their dead, to enter some +houses, where, having provided themselves with victuals and water, +they carried them on board a canoe, in which they made their escape; +and, after passing Mataia, at which they would not touch, at last +arrived safe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however, were sensible enough +that their travellers had been to blame; for a canoe from Mateeva, +arriving some time after at Bolabola, so far were they from +retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen, that they +acknowledged they had deserved their fate, and treated their visitors +kindly. + +These low isles are, doubtless, the farthest navigation which those of +Otaheite and the Society Islands perform at present. It seems to be a +groundless supposition, made by Mons. de Bougainville, that they made +voyages of the prodigious extent[5] he mentions; for I found, that it +is reckoned a sort of a prodigy, that a canoe, once driven by a storm +from Otaheite, should have fallen in with Mopeeha, or Howe's Island, +though so near, and directly to leeward. The knowledge they have +of other distant islands is, no doubt, traditional; and has been +communicated to them by the natives of those islands, driven +accidentally upon their coasts, who, besides giving them the names, +could easily inform them of the direction in which the places lie from +whence they came, and of the number of days they had been upon the +sea. In this manner, it may be supposed, that the natives of Wateeoo +have increased their catalogue by the addition of Otaheite and its +neighbouring isles, from the people we met with there, and also of +the other islands these had heard of. We may thus account for that +extensive knowledge attributed by the gentlemen of the Endeavour to +Tupia in such matters. And, with all due deference to his veracity, +I presume that it was, by the same means of information, that he was +able to direct the ship to Oheteroa, without having ever been +there himself, as he pretended; which, on many accounts, is very +improbable.[6] + +[Footnote 5: See _Bougainville's Voyage autour du Monde_, p. 228, +where we are told that these people sometimes navigate at the distance +of more than three hundred leagues.--D.] + +[Footnote 6: Though much of Mr Anderson's account of Otaheite, &c. be +very similar to what has been given in the preceding relations, yet +it must be allowed to possess too great merit to warrant omission +or alteration. He has been fortunate, certainly, in delineating the +manners and opinions of the people; and perhaps, on the whole, +his information bears more decisive marks of care and intimate +acquaintance than any other we possess on the subject. This, it may +be said, is no very high merit; because, having the benefit of pretty +extensive labours, he had only to compare a picture with its original, +as presented to his notice, and was under no necessity of dividing +his attention among a multiplicity of unconnected objects. Still this +remark is not just, unless it be shewn that he has merely affirmed +the likeness or unlikeness he observed betwixt them, and specified the +peculiarities of resemblance or dissimilarity. In place of doing +so, however, he has executed another picture. But such analogical +reasoning is more fanciful than judicious; and even were it correctly +applicable to the case, it is evident, that no one would be entitled +to decide as to the respective merits of the productions, who was not +familiar with the objects which they represented. Now, the fact is, +that Mr Anderson had no opportunity of availing himself of what others +had done before, unless we except the avowedly imperfect delineations +in Hawkesworth's Narrative, from which we can scarcely believe he +could derive material assistance. The reader will understand this +at once, by considering, that neither Cook's account of his second +voyage, nor the productions of Mr Forster, had been published before +the commencement of this expedition. It may, however, be imagined, +that Cook himself would communicate to Mr Anderson such particulars +of his former journal as were likely to aid him in his present +researches. Even this supposition is exceedingly unnecessary; because, +it appears from the Memoir of Cook, in the Biog. Brit. that that +officer rather received assistance from Mr Anderson during the former +navigation; and we shall afterwards see reason to consider him as +possessed of abilities, and a talent for observation, which rendered +him very independent of others. His description, therefore, is to +be judged an original one, and as such is entitled to the highest +distinction. It may indeed be somewhat chargeable with the +exaggerations of a warm fancy, especially as to what is said of the +religious notions of these islanders, which perhaps assume more of +system and regularity through the medium of Mr A.'s report, than it +is altogether likely would be found to exist in their popular creeds. +This is easily understood, without any aspersion on his veracity. For, +as it will be allowed that he possessed greater compass of mind, and +was more in the habit of exercising thought than the people whose +opinions he described, so it may thence be readily inferred, that, +what to them was confused and unconnected, as is commonly the case +with the superstitions of the illiterate in all countries, his +philosophical genius, working on obvious and remote analogies, wrought +into order, and stamped with the semblance, at least, of theoretical +consistency. We had at one time purposed to offer a few remarks +on certain parts of his description, but, on second thoughts, it +occurred, that, on the whole, the subject had received a very ample +share of attention in the course of these voyages.--E.] + + +SECTION X. + +_Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands.--Christmas +Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there.--Boats sent +ashore.--Great Success in catching Turtle.--An Eclipse of the Sun +observed.--Distress of two Seamen who had lost their Way.--Inscription +left in a Bottle.--Account of the Island.--Its Soil.--Trees and +Plants.--Birds.--Its Size.--Form.--Situation.--Anchoring Ground._ + +After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close-hauled, with +the wind between N.E. and E., hardly ever having it to the southward +of E., till after we had crossed the Line, and had got into N. +latitudes. So that our course, made good, was always to the W. of N., +and sometimes no better than N.W. + +Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure from +England, during which, we had not, upon the whole, been unprofitably +employed, I was sensible, that with regard to the principal object of +my instructions, our voyage was, at this time, only beginning; and, +therefore, my attention to every circumstance that might contribute +toward our safety and our ultimate success, was now to be called forth +anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our provisions +at the last islands; and, as soon as I had left them, and got beyond +the extent of my former discoveries, I ordered a survey to be taken +of all the boatswain's and carpenter's stores that were in the ships, +that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition +of every article; and, by that means, know how to use them to the +greatest advantage. + +Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity of +enquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any islands in a N. or +N.W. direction from them; but I did not find that they knew of any. +Nor did we meet with any thing that indicated the vicinity of land, +till we came to about the latitude of 8° S., where we began to see +birds, such as boobies, tropic, and men-of-war birds, tern, and some +other sorts. At this time our longitude was 205° E. Mendana, in his +first voyage in 1568,[1] discovered an island which he named Isla de +Jesus, in latitude 6° 45' S., and 1450 leagues from Callao, which +is 200° E. longitude from Greenwich. We crossed this latitude near a +hundred leagues to the eastward of this longitude, and saw there many +of the above-mentioned birds, which are seldom known to go very far +from land. + +[Footnote 1: See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. i. p. 45.] + +In the night, between the 22d and 23d, we crossed the Line in the +longitude of 203° 15' E. Here the variation of the compass was 6° 30' +E. nearly. + +On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land was discovered +bearing N.E. by E. 1/2 E. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be +one of those low islands so common in this ocean, that is, a narrow +bank of land inclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen +in two or three places; but, in general, the land had a very barren +appearance. At noon, it extended from N.E. by E. to S. by E. 1/2 E., +about four miles distant. The wind was at E.S.E., so that we were +under a necessity of making a few boards, to get up to the lee or west +side, where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, +over a bottom of fine sand, the least depth about half a mile from, +the breakers, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting with +soundings determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get some +turtles, for the island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, +and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty +fathoms; and then a boat was dispatched to examine whether it was +practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in +a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the +officer, whom I had entrusted with this examination, reported to me +that he could see no place where a boat could land, but that there was +great abundance of fish in the shoal water, without the breakers. + +At day-break, the next morning, I sent two boats, one from each ship, +to search more accurately for a landing-place; and, at the same time, +two others to fish at a grappling near the shore. These last returned +about eight o'clock, with upward of two hundred weight of fish. +Encouraged by this success, they were dispatched again after +breakfast; and I then went in another boat, to take a view of +the coast and attempt landing, but this I found to be wholly +impracticable. Toward noon, the two boats, sent on the same search, +returned. The master, who was in that belonging to the Resolution, +reported to me, that about a league and a half to the N., was a break +in the land, and a channel into the _lagoon_, consequently, that there +was a fit place for landing; and that he had found the same soundings +off this entrance, as we had where we now lay. In consequence of this +report the ships weighed anchor, and, after two or three trips, came +to again in twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark sand, +before a small island that lies at the entrance of the _lagoon_, and +on each side of which there is a channel leading into it, but only fit +for boats. The water in the _lagoon_ itself is all very shallow. + +On the 26th, in the morning, I ordered Captain Clerke to send a +boat, with an officer, to the S.E. part of the _lagoon_, to look for +turtles; and Mr King and I went each in a boat to the N.E. part. I +intended to have gone to the most easterly extremity, but the wind +blew too fresh to allow it, and obliged us to land more to leeward, on +a sandy flat, where we caught one turtle, the only one that we saw +in the _lagoon_. We walked, or rather waded, through the water to +an island, where finding nothing but a few birds, I left it, and +proceeded to the land that bounds the sea to the N.W., leaving Mr King +to observe the sun's meridian altitude. I found this land to be even +more barren than the island I had been upon; but walking over to the +sea-coast, I saw five turtles close to the shore. One of these we +caught, and the rest made their escape. Not seeing any more I returned +on board, as did Mr King soon after, without having seen one turtle. +We, however, did not despair of getting a supply; for some of Captain +Clerke's officers, who had been ashore on the land to the southward +of the channel leading into the _lagoon_, had been more fortunate, and +caught several there. + +In the morning of the 27th, the pinnace and cutter, under the command +of Mr King, were sent to the S.E. part of the island, within the +_lagoon_, and the small cutter to the northward, where I had been the +day before, both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch +turtles. Captain Clerke having had some of his people on shore all +night, they had been so fortunate as to turn between forty and fifty +on the sand, which were brought on board with all expedition this day. +And, in the afternoon, the party I had sent northward returned with +six. They were sent back again, and remained there till we left the +island, having in general pretty good success. + +On the 28th, I landed in company with Mr Bayly, on the island which +lies between the two channels into the _lagoon_, to prepare the +telescopes for observing the approaching eclipse of the sun, which +was one great inducement to my anchoring here. About noon, Mr King +returned with one boat and eight turtles, leaving seven behind to +be brought by the other boat, whose people were employed in catching +more; and, in the evening, the same boat was sent with water and +provisions for them. Mr Williamson now went to superintend this +duty in the room of Mr King, who remained on board to attend the +observation of the eclipse. + +The next day, Mr Williamson dispatched the two boats back to the ship, +laden with turtles. At the same time, he sent me a message, desiring +that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had found a +landing-place on the S.E. side of the island, where most of the +turtles were caught; so that by sending the boats thither, the trouble +would be saved of carrying them over the land to the inside of the +_lagoon_, as had been hitherto done. The boats were accordingly +dispatched to the place which he pointed out. + +On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to happen, +Mr King, Mr Bayly, and myself, went ashore on the small island +above-mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky was over-cast till +past nine o'clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough +to take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made use +of. After this, it was again obscured, till about thirty minutes past +nine, and then we found that the eclipse was begun. We now fixed the +micrometers to the telescopes, and observed or measured the uneclipsed +part of the sun's disk. At these observations I continued about +three-quarters of an hour before the end, when I left off, being, in +fact, unable to continue them longer, on account of the great heat of +the sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. + +The sun was clouded at times; but it was clear when the eclipse ended, +the time of which was observed as follows: + + Mr Bayly 0 26 3 + By Mr King at 0 26 1 Apparent Time p.m. + Myself 0 25 37 + +Mr Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, and Mr +King with a reflector. As Mr Bayly's telescope and mine were of the +same magnifying power, I ought not to have differed so much from +him as I did. Perhaps, it was, in part, if not wholly owing to a +protuberance in the moon, which escaped my notice, but was seen by +both the other gentlemen. + +In the afternoon, the boats and turtling party, at the S.E. part of +the island, all returned on board, except a seaman belonging to the +Discovery, who had been missing two days. There were two of them at +first who had lost their way, but disagreeing about the most probable +track to bring them back to their companions, they had separated, and +one of them joined the party, after having been absent twenty-four +hours, and been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be +had, for there is none upon the whole island; nor was there a single +cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst, +be had recourse to the singular expedient of killing turtles, and +drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself, when weary, +of which he said he felt the good effects, was equally whimsical. He +undressed himself, and lay down for some time in the shallow water +upon the beach.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The practice is deserving of a better epithet. It is +highly judicious, and may often be adopted with the best effects. The +use of the cold bath in cases of fever is not materially different; +and it is most certain, that washing the body with either cold or warm +water, is one of the best methods of relieving the sense of weariness +consequent on fatiguing exercise. Some caution is undoubtedly required +in using it; but on the whole, there is much less danger in the +application than is commonly imagined. The natural indications are +chiefly to be regarded. Thus it is not likely that a person already +cooled down below the natural standard, so as to feel positively cold +or chilly, will run the risk of greater reduction of temperature by +immersion in cold water; and on the other hand, when most warm, +in which state such reduction is safest, there is the greatest +inclination to have recourse to it. It is advisable to employ friction +with cloths in most cases, but more especially where perspiration has +been brought on, in which state, cold bathing, unless preceded by that +process in such a degree as to excite a sense of heat on the surface, +is improper, for a reason above assigned, perspiration always +occasioning a reduction of temperature. This subject is an important +one, but could not be discussed here; there seemed, however, some good +end likely to be answered by at least directing attention to it.--E.] + +It was a matter of surprise to every one, how these two men could +contrive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, +from the sea-coast to the _lagoon_, where the boats lay, was not more +than three miles across, nor was there any thing to obstruct their +view, for the country was a flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon +it, and from many parts of it, the masts of the ships could easily be +seen. But this was a rule of direction they never once thought of; +nor did they recollect in what quarter of the island the ships had +anchored, and they were as much at a loss how to get back to them, or +to the party they had straggled from, as if they had but just +dropped from the clouds. Considering how strange a set of beings the +generality of seamen are, when on shore, instead of being surprised +that these two men should thus lose their way, it is rather to be +wondered at, that no more of the party were missing. Indeed, one +of those who landed with me was in a similar situation; but he had +sagacity enough to know that the ships were to leeward, and got +on board almost as soon as it was discovered that he had been left +behind. + +As soon as Captain Clerke knew that one of the stragglers was still in +this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him; but neither +the man nor the party having come back, the next morning I ordered two +boats into the _lagoon_, to go different ways, in prosecution of the +search. Not long after, Captain Clerke's party returned with their +lost companion; and my boats having now no object left, I called +them back by signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far greater +distress than the other straggler, not only as having been lost +a longer time, but as we found that he was too squeamish to drink +turtle's blood. + +Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a state of vegetation, I +ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed +the eclipse, and some melon-seeds were sown in another place. I also +left, on the little island, a bottle containing this inscription: + + _Georgius, Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777._ + _Naves {Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._ + _{Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._ + +On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our +parties from the land, and the turtles they had caught. Before this +was completed it was late in the afternoon, so that I did not think +proper to sail till next morning. We got at this island, to both +ships, about three hundred turtles, weighing, one with another, about +ninety or a hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind, and +perhaps as good as any in the world. We also caught, with hook and +line, as much fish as we could consume during our stay. They consisted +principally of cavallies of different sizes, large and small snappers, +and a few of two sorts of rock-fish, one with numerous spots of blue, +and the other with whitish streaks scattered about. + +The soil of this island, in some places, is light and black, evidently +composed of decayed vegetables, the dung of birds, and sand. There +are other places again, where nothing but marine productions, such as +broken coral stones and shells are to be seen. These are deposited in +long narrow ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the sea-coast, +not unlike a ploughed field, and must have been thrown up by the +waves, though, at this time, they do not reach within a mile of some +of these places. This seems to furnish an incontestible proof that the +island has been produced by accessions from the sea, and is in a state +of increase; for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the +shells, are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds, +from the beach, to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh +water was any where found, though frequently dug for. We met with +several ponds of salt water, which had no visible communication with +the sea, and must, therefore, in all probability, be filled by the +water filtrating through the sand in high tides. One of the lost men +found some salt on the S.E. part of the island. But though this was an +article of which we were in want, a man who could lose himself, as +he did, and not know whether he was travelling east, west, north, or +south, was not to be depended upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the +place. + +There were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been +here before us; and, indeed, should any one be so unfortunate as to be +accidentally driven upon the island, or left there, it is hard to +say, that he could be able to prolong existence. There is, indeed, +abundance of birds and fish, but no visible means of allaying thirst, +nor any vegetable that could supply the place of bread, or correct the +bad effects of an animal diet, which, in all probability, would soon +prove fatal alone. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number +of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and, in +general, what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice +salt, or brackish. So that a ship touching here, must expect nothing +but fish and turtles, and of these an abundant supply may be depended +upon. + +On some parts of the land were a few low trees. Mr Anderson gave me an +account also of two small shrubs, and, of two or three small plants, +all which we had seen on Palmerston's Island and Otakootaia. There +was also a species of _sida_ or Indian mallow, a sort of purslain, +and another small plant, that seemed, from its leaves, a +_mesembryanthemum_, with two species of grass. But each of these +vegetable productions was in so small a quantity, and grew with so +much languor, that one is almost surprised that the species do not +become extinct. + +Under the low trees above-mentioned, sat infinite numbers of a new +species of tern, or egg-bird. These are black above and white below, +with a white arch on the forehead, and are rather larger than the +common noddy. Most of them had lately hatched their young, which lay +under old ones upon the bare ground. The rest had eggs, of which they +only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, bluish and speckled with +black. There were also a good many common boobies, a sort that are +almost like a gannet, and a sooty or chocolate-coloured one, with a +white belly. To this list we must add men-of-war birds, tropic-birds, +curlews, sand-pipers, a small land-bird like a hedge-sparrow, +land-crabs, small lizards, and rats. + +As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery _Christmas +Island_. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in +circumference. It seemed to be of a semicircular form, or like the +moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the N. and S. points, +which bear from each other nearly N. by E., and S. by W., four or five +leagues distant. This west side, or the little isle at the entrance +into the _lagoon_, upon which we observed the eclipse, lies in the +latitude of 1° 59' N., and in the longitude of 202° 30' E., determined +by a considerable number of lunar observations, which differed only +7' from the time-keeper, it being so much less. The variation of the +compass was 6° 22-1/2' E., and the dip of the north end of the needle +11° 54'. + +Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef +of coral-rocks, which extends but a little way from the shore. +Farther out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of fine sand, +extending a mile into the sea. On this bank is good anchorage, in +any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the +first-mentioned depth, the reef would be too near; and, in more than +the last, the edge of the bank would not be at a sufficient distance. +During the time we lay here, the wind blew constantly a fresh gale at +E., or E. by S., except one or two days. We had, always, a great swell +from the northward, which broke upon the reef in a prodigious surf. +We had found this swell before we came to the island, and it continued +for some days after we left it. + + +SECTION XI. + +_Some Islands discovered.--Account of the Natives of Atooi, who came +off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on board.--One of them +killed.--Precautions used to prevent Intercourse with the Females.--A +Watering-place found.--Reception upon landing.--Excursion into the +Country.--A Morai visited and described.--Graves of the Chiefs, and of +the human Sacrifices, there buried.--Another Island, called Oneeheow, +visited.--Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to the +Ships.--Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals.--A Party +sent ashore, who remain two Nights.--Account of what passed on +landing.--The Ships leave, the Islands, and proceed to the North._ + +On the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, and resumed our +course to the N., having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at E., and +E.S.E., till we got into the latitude of 7° 45' N., and the longitude +of 205° E., where we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a N.E. +by E., and E.N.E. wind. At first it blew faint, but freshened as we +advanced to the N. We continued to see birds every day of the sorts +last mentioned, sometimes in greater numbers than others, and between +the latitude of 10° and 11°, we saw several turtles. All these are +looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land. However, we discovered +none till day-break, in the morning of the 18th, when an island made +its appearance, bearing N.E. by E.; and soon after, we saw more +land bearing N., and entirely detached from the former. Both had the +appearance of being high land. At noon, the first bore N.E. by E. 1/2 +E., by estimation about eight or nine leagues distant; and an elevated +hill, near the east end of the other, bore N. 1/2 W. Our latitude, at +this time, was 21° 12' N., and longitude 200° 41' E. We had now light +airs and calms by turns, so that, at sunset, we were not less than +nine or ten leagues from the nearest land. + +On the 19th, at sun-rise, the island first seen, bore E., several +leagues distant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our +getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach; and, not +long after, discovered a third island in the direction of W.N.W., as +far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at E. by +N., and I steered for the east end of the second island, which, at +noon, extended from N. 1/2 E. to W.N.W. 1/4 W., the nearest part being +about two leagues distant. At this time, we were in some doubt whether +or no the land before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon +cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the +ships. I immediately brought-to, to give them time to join us. They +had from three to six men each; and, on their approach, we were +agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite, +and of the other islands we had lately visited. It required but very +little address to get them to come along-side; but no entreaties could +prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals to +a rope, and gave them to those in one of the canoes, who, in return, +tied some small mackerel to the rope as an equivalent. This was +repeated; and some small nails, or bits of iron, which they valued +more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged +more fish and a sweet potatoe, a sure sign that they had some notion +of bartering, or, at least, of returning one present for another. They +had nothing else in their canoes, except some large gourd shells, and +a kind of fishing-net; but one of them offered for sale the piece +of stuff that he wore round his waist, after the manner of the other +islands. These people were of a brown colour; and, though of the +common size, were stoutly made. There was little difference in the +casts of their colour, but a considerable variation in their features, +some of their visages not being very unlike those of Europeans. The +hair of most of them was cropt pretty short, others had it flowing +loose, and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the +head. In all it seemed to be naturally black; but most of them had +stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some +stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore +their beards. They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did we +observe that their ears were perforated; but some were punctured on +the hands, or near the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits +of cloth which they wore, were curiously-stained with red, black, and +white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind, +if we except some small stones, which they had evidently brought for +their own defence, and these they threw overboard when they found that +they were not wanted. + +Seeing no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern extreme of the +island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along the S.E. side, at the +distance of half a league from the shore. As soon as we made sail the +canoes left us; but others came off as we proceeded along the coast, +bringing with them roasting-pigs, and some very fine potatoes, which +they had exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever was offered +to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail, so +that we again found ourselves in a land of plenty, and just at +the time when the turtle, which we had so fortunately procured at +Christmas Island, were nearly expended. We passed several villages, +some seated near the sea, and others farther up the country. The +inhabitants of all of them crowded to the shore, and collected +themselves on the elevated places to view the ships. The land upon +this side of the island rises in a gentle slope, from the sea to the +foot of the mountains, which occupy the centre of the country, except +at one place near the east end, where they rise directly from the +sea, and seemed to be formed of nothing but stone, or rocks lying in +horizontal _strata_. We saw no wood but what was up in the interior +part of the island, except a few trees about the villages, near +which, also, we could observe several plantations of plantains and +sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated for roots. + +We continued to sound, without striking ground with a line of fifty +fathoms, till we came abreast of a low point, which is about the +middle of the east side of the island, or rather nearer the N.W. end. +Here we met with twelve and fourteen fathoms over a rocky bottom. +Being past this point, from which the coast trended more northerly, +we had twenty, then sixteen, twelve, and, at last, five fathoms over +a sandy bottom. The last soundings were about a mile from the shore. +Night now put a stop to any farther researches, and we spent it +standing off and on. The next morning we stood in for the land, and +were met by several canoes filled with people, some of whom took +courage and ventured on board. + +In the course of my several voyages I never before met with the +natives of any place so much astonished, as these people were upon +entering a ship. Their eyes were continually flying from object to +object; the wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing +their entire ignorance about every thing they saw, and strongly +marking to us, that, till now, they had never been visited by +Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except +iron; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had +known it in some small quantity, brought to them at some distant +period. They seemed only to understand that it was a substance much +better adapted to the purposes of cutting or of boring of holes, than +any thing their own country produced. They asked for it by the name +of _hamaite_, probably referring to some instrument, in the making of +which iron could be usefully employed; for they applied that name to +the blade of a knife, though we could be certain that they had no +idea of that particular instrument, nor could they at all handle it +properly. For the same reason they frequently called iron by the name +of _toe_, which, in their language, signifies a hatchet, or rather a +kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately answered, +"We do not know; you know what it is, and we only understand it as +_toe_, or _hamaite_." When we shewed them some beads, they asked +first, "What they were;" and then "whether they should eat them." +But on their being told that they were to be hung in their ears, +they returned them as useless. They were equally indifferent as to a +looking-glass, which was offered them, and returned it for the same +reason; but sufficiently expressed their desire for _hamaite_ and +_toe_, which they wished might be very large. Plates of earthen-ware, +china-cups, and other such things, were so new to them, that they +asked if they were made of wood, but wished to have some, that +they might carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in some +respects, naturally well-bred; or, at least, fearful of giving +offence, asking whether they should sit down, whether they should +spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of them repeated a long prayer +before they came on board; and others afterward sung and made motions +with their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the dances +of the islands we had lately visited. There was another circumstance +in which they also perfectly resembled those other islanders. At +first, on their entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal every +thing they came near, or rather to take it openly, as what we either +should not resent, or not hinder. We soon convinced them of their +mistake; and if they, after some time, became less active in +appropriating to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was +because they found that we kept a watchful eye over them. + +At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed +boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a +landing-place, and for fresh water. I ordered him, that if he should +find it necessary to land in search of the latter, not to suffer +more than one man to go with him out of the boats. Just as they +were putting off from the ship, one of the natives having stole the +butcher's cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened +to the shore, the boats pursuing him in vain. + +The order not to permit the crews of the boats to go on shore was +issued, that I might do every thing in my power to prevent the +importation of a fatal disease into this island, which I knew some of +our men now laboured under, and which, unfortunately, had been already +communicated by us to other islands in these seas. With the same view +I ordered all female visitors to be excluded from the ships. Many of +them had come off in the canoes. Their size, colour, and features did +not differ much from those of the men; and though their countenances +were remarkably open and agreeable, there were few traces of delicacy +to be seen, either in their faces, or other proportions. The only +difference in their dress was their having a piece of cloth about +the body, reaching from near the middle to half-way down the thighs, +instead of the _maro_ worn by the other sex. They would as readily +have favoured us with their company on board as the men; but I wished +to prevent all connection, which might, too probably, convey an +irreparable injury to themselves, and, through their means, to the +whole nation. Another necessary precaution was taken, by strictly +enjoining, that no person known to be capable of propagating the +infection, should be sent upon duty out of the ships. + +Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had the desired +effect or no, time only can discover. I had been equally attentive +to the same object, when I first visited the Friendly Islands, yet I +afterwards found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded. And I +am much afraid that this will always be the case in such voyages as +ours, whenever it is necessary to have a number of people on shore. +The opportunities and inducements to an intercourse between the sexes +are then too numerous to be guarded against; and, however confident we +may be of the health of our men, we are often undeceived too late. It +is even a matter of doubt with me, if it be always in the power of the +most skilful of the faculty to pronounce, with any certainty, whether +a person who has been under their care, in certain stages of this +malady, is so effectually cured, as to leave no possibility of his +being still capable of communicating the taint. I think I could +mention some instances which justify my presuming to hazard this +opinion. It is likewise well known, that amongst a number of men, +there are, generally, to be found some so bashful as to endeavour to +conceal their labouring under any symptoms of this disorder. And +there are others again, so profligate, as not to care to whom they +communicate it. Of this last we had an instance at Tongataboo, in the +gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on shore to manage +the trade for that ship. After he knew that he had contracted this +disease, he continued to have connections with different women, +who were supposed not to have already contracted it. His companions +expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Clerke, hearing of +this dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered him on board.[1] + +[Footnote 1: One can scarcely help smiling at the mode Dr Kippis uses +to express his abhorrence of this man's conduct. It may be seen in +his account of this voyage, given in the Biog. Brit. "If I knew the +rascal's name," says he, "I would hang it up, as far as lies in my +power, to everlasting infamy!" Undoubtedly it richly deserved such +treatment, but there was no necessity for the doctor exhibiting such +keenness for the office of executioner.--E.] + +While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on +and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon, Mr +Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond +behind a beach near one of the villages, which the natives told him +contained fresh water, and that there was anchoring-ground before it. +He also reported that he had attempted to land in another place, but +was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great +numbers, attempted to take away the oars, musquets, and, in short, +every thing that they could lay hold of, and pressed so thick upon +him, that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But +this unhappy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the +island, so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the +kind had happened. Mr Williamson told me, that after the man fell, +his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired from +the boat; but still they made signals for our people to land, which he +declined. It did not appear to Mr Williamson, that the natives had +any design to kill, or even to hurt, any of his party; but they seemed +excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being, at +the same time, ready to give in return, any thing of their own. + +After the boats were on board, I dispatched one of them to lie in the +best anchoring-ground; and as soon as she had got to this station, I +bore down with the ships, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, +the bottom a fine grey sand. The east point of the road, which was the +low point before-mentioned, bore S. 51° E., the west point N. 65° W., +and the village, behind which the water was said to be, N.E. by E., +distant one mile. But, little more than a quarter of a mile from us, +there were breakers, which I did not see till after the Resolution was +placed. The Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, and farther +from the land. The ships being thus stationed, between three and four +o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats, and twelve marines, +to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabitants, +several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before +the village; behind it was a narrow valley, the bottom of which was +occupied by the piece of water. + +The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives +all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble +posture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise. +They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, +with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen +practised on such occasions, at the Society and other islands; and a +long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of +the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their +proffered friendship, by giving them, in return, such presents as +I had brought with me from the ship for that purpose. When this +introductory business was finished, I stationed a guard upon the +beach, and got some of the natives to conduct me to the water, which +proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose. +It was so considerable, that it may be called a lake; and it extended +farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself +about this very essential point, and about the peaceable disposition +of the natives, I returned on board, and then gave orders that every +thing should be in readiness for landing and filling our water-casks +in the morning, when I went ashore with the people employed in that +service, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were +stationed on the beach. + +As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, +which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and +pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. We met with no +obstruction in watering; on the contrary, the natives assisted our +men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed +whatever we required. Every thing thus going on to my satisfaction, +and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left +the command to Mr Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an +excursion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson +and Mr Webber; the former of whom was as well qualified to describe +with the pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, every +thing we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of +natives followed us; and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his +activity in keeping the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. +This man, from time to time, proclaimed our approach; and every one +whom we met, fell prostrate upon the ground, and remained in that +position till we had passed. This, as I afterward understood, is the +mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As we ranged +down the coast from the east, in the ships, we had observed at every +village one or more elevated white objects, like pyramids or other +obelisks; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet +high, was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and +seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer +inspection of it, was the principal object of my walk. Our guide +perfectly understood that we wished to be conducted to it. But it +happened to be so placed, that we could not get at it, being separated +from us by the pool of water. However, there being another of the same +kind within our reach, about half a mile off, upon our side of the +valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, we saw that +it stood in a burying-ground, or _morai_, the resemblance of which, +in many respects to those we were so well acquainted with at other +islands in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike +us; and we also soon found, that the several parts that compose it, +were called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable +extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. The space +inclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones; and at one end of it, +stood what I call the pyramid, but, in the language of the island, is +named _henananoo_, which appeared evidently to be an exact model of +the larger one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet +square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were +composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus +forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom +to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state; but there were +sufficient remaining marks to shew that it had originally been covered +with a thin light grey cloth, which these people, it would seem, +consecrate to religions purposes, as we could see a good deal of it +hanging in different parts of the _morai_, and some of it had been +forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of the pyramid were +long pieces of wicker-work, called _hereanee_, in the same ruinous +condition, with two slender poles, inclining to each other, at one +corner, where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at the +height of five or six feet. This they called _herairemy_; and informed +us, that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it agree +exactly with the _whatta_ of Otaheite. Before the _henananoo_ were a +few pieces of wood, carved into something like human figures, which, +with a stone near two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called +_hoho_, and consecrated to _Tongarooa_, who is the god of these +people, still more and more reminded us of what we used to meet with +in the _morais_ of the islands we had lately left. Adjoining to these, +on the outside of the _morai_, was a small shed, no bigger than a +dog-kennel, which they called _hareepahoo_; and before it was a grave, +where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay. + +On the farther side of the area of the _morai_, stood a house or +shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being +narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which, though much longer, +was lower than their common dwelling places, we were informed, was +called _hemanaa_. The entrance into it was at the middle of the side, +which was in the _morai_. On the farther side of this house, opposite +the entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, with +pedestals, in all about three feet high, neither very indifferently +designed or executed. These were said to be _Eatooa no Veheina_, or +representations of goddesses. On the head of one of them was a carved +helmet, not unlike those worn, by the ancient warriors; and on that of +the other, a cylindrical cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, +called _tomou_; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the +loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each, was +also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them, in +the same manner; and between, or before, the pedestals, lay a quantity +of fern, in a heap. It was obvious, that this had been deposited +there, piece by piece, and at different times; for there was of it, in +all states, from what was quite decayed, to what was still fresh and +green. + +In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong +space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, and covered with shreds of +the cloth so often mentioned. This, on enquiry, we found was the grave +of seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called +_Heneene_. We had met already with so many striking instances of +resemblance, between the burying-place we were now visiting, and those +of the islands we had lately come from in the South Pacific, that we +had little doubt in our minds, that the resemblance existed also, in +the ceremonies practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of +offering human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed by +direct evidence. For, on coming out of the house, just on one side +of the entrance, we saw a small square place, and another still less, +near it; and on asking what these were, our guide immediately informed +us, that in the one was buried a man who had been sacrificed; a +_Taa-ta_ (_Tanata_ or _Tangata_, in this country) _taboo_ (_tafoo_, as +here pronounced); and in the other, a hog, which had also been made +an offering to the divinity. At a little distance from these, near +the middle of the _morai_, were three more of these square inclosed +places, with two pieces of carved wood at each, and upon them a heap +of fern. These, we were told, were the graves of three chiefs; and +before them was an oblong, inclosed space, to which our conductor also +gave the name of _Tangata taboo_; telling us, so explicitly, that we +could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices had been +buried there; that is, one at the funeral of each chief. It was with +most sincere concern, that I could trace, on such undoubted evidence, +the prevalence of these bloody rites, throughout this immense ocean, +amongst people disjoined by such a distance, and even ignorant of each +other's existence, though so strongly marked as originally of the same +nation. It was no small addition to this concern, to reflect, that +every appearance led us to believe, that the barbarous practice was +very general here. The island seemed to abound with such places of +sacrifice as this which we were now visiting, and which appeared to +be one of the most inconsiderable of them, being far less conspicuous +than several others which we had seen, as we sailed along the coast, +and particularly than that on the opposite side of the water, in +this valley, the white _henananoo_, or pyramid, of which, we were now +almost sure, derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated +cloth laid over it. In several parts, within the inclosure of this +burying-ground, were planted trees of the _cordia sebestina_ some +of the _morinda citrifolia_, and several plants of the _etee_, or +_jeejee_, of Tongataboo, with the leaves of which the _hemanaa_ was +thatched; and, as I observed, that this plant was not made use of in +thatching their dwelling-houses, probably it is reserved entirely for +religious purposes. + +Our road to and from the _morai_, which I have described, lay through +the plantations. The greatest part of the ground was quite flat, with +ditches full of water intersecting different parts, and roads that +seemed artificially raised to some height. The interspaces were, in +general, planted with _taro_, which grows here with great strength, as +the fields are sunk below the common level, so as to contain the water +necessary to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from the +same source, which supplies the large pool from which we filled +our casks. On the drier spaces were several spots, where the +cloth-mulberry was planted, in regular rows; also growing vigorously, +and kept very clean. The cocoa-trees were not in so thriving a state, +and were all low, but the plantain-trees made a better appearance, +though they were not large. In general, the trees round this village, +and which were seen at many of those which we passed before we +anchored, are the _cordia sebestina_, but of a more diminutive size +than the product of the southern isles. The greatest part of the +village stands near the beach, and consists of above sixty houses +there; but, perhaps, about forty more stand scattered about, farther +up the country, toward the burying-place. + +After we had examined, very carefully, every thing that was to be seen +about the _morai_, and Mr Webber had taken drawings of it, and of the +adjoining country, we returned by a different route. I found a great +crowd assembled at the beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and +roots, going on there, with the greatest good order, though I did not +observe any particular person, who took the lead amongst the rest of +his countrymen. At noon, I went on board to dinner, and then sent +Mr King to command the party ashore. He was to have gone upon that +service in the morning, but was then detained in the ship, to make +lunar observations. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by +Captain Clerke, with a view to make another excursion up the country. +But, before this could be put in execution, the day was too far spent, +so that I laid aside my intention for the present, and it so happened +that I had not another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body +on board, having procured, in the course of the day, nine tons of +water; and, by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about +seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a +few plantains and _taro_ roots. These people merited our best +commendations, in this commercial intercourse, never once attempting +to cheat us, either ashore or alongside the ships. Some of +them, indeed, as already mentioned, at first betrayed a thievish +disposition, or rather they thought, that they had a right to every +thing they could lay their hands upon; but they soon laid aside a +conduct, which, we convinced them, they could not persevere in with +impunity. + +Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could +not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, +even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might +be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and shape of +the short cloaks worn by the women in England, and by the men in +Spain reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. The +ground of them is a net-work, upon which the most beautiful red +and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that the surface might be +compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both +as to the feel, and the glossy appearance. The manner of varying the +mixture is very different, some having triangular spaces of red and +yellow, alternately, others a kind of crescent; and some, that were +entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made them appear, at +some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The +brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new, +added not a little to their fine appearance, and we found that they +were in high estimation with their owners, for they would not, at +first, part with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no +less a price than a musket. However, some were afterward purchased for +very large nails. Such of them as were of the best sort, were scarce; +and it should seem, that they are only used on the occasion of some +particular ceremony, or diversion; for the people who had them, always +made some gesticulations, which we had seen used before by those who +sung. + +The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or +crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth; and it sits very close upon the +head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and +osiers, covered with a net work, into which are wrought feathers, in +the same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less +diversified, the greater part being red, with some black yellow, +or green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction of the +crest. These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks, for the +natives sometimes appeared in both together. + +We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get such a quantity +of these beautiful feathers, but were soon informed as to one sort, +for they afterward brought great numbers of skins of small red birds +for sale, which were often tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or +had a small wooden skewer run through their nostrils. At the first, +those that were bought, consisted only of the skin from behind +the wings forward, but we afterwards got many with the hind part, +including the tail and feet. The first, however, struck us at once +with the origin of the fable formerly adopted, of the birds of +paradise wanting legs, and sufficiently explained that circumstance. +Probably the people of the islands east of the Moluccas, from whence +the skins of the birds of paradise are brought, cut off their feet, +for the very reason assigned by the people of Atooi, for the like +practice, which was, that they thereby can preserve them with greater +ease, without losing any part which they reckon valuable. The red-bird +of our island was judged by Mr Anderson to be a species of _merops_, +about the size of a sparrow, of a beautiful scarlet colour, with a +black tail and wings, and an arched bill, twice the length of the +head, which, with the feet, was also of a reddish colour. The contents +of the heads were taken out, as in the birds of paradise; but it did +not appear that they used any other method to preserve them, than by +simple drying, for the skins, though moist, had neither a taste +nor smell that could give room to suspect the use of antiputrescent +substances.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is matter of real curiosity to observe, how very +extensively the predilection for red feathers is spread throughout +all the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and the additional circumstance, +mentioned in this paragraph, will, probably, be looked upon by those +who amuse themselves in tracing the wonderful migrations of the same +family, or tribe, as a confirmation of that hypothesis, (built indeed +on other instances of resemblance,) which considers New Guinea, and +its neighbouring East India islands, from whence the Dutch bring +their birds of Paradise, as originally peopled by the same race, which +Captain Cook found at every island from New Zealand to this new group, +to which Atooi belongs. + +What Mr Sonnerat tells us, about the bird of Paradise, agrees +perfectly with the account here given of the preserved red-birds. +Speaking of the _Papous_, he proceeds thus: "Ils nous présenterent +plusieurs especes d'oiseaux, aussi élégants par leur forme, que +brillants par l'éclat de leur couleurs. La dépouille des oiseaux sert +à la parure des Chefs, qui la portent attachée à leurs bonnets en +forme d'aigrettes. _Mais en preparant les peaux, ils coupent les +pieds_. Les Hollandois, qui trafiquent sur ces cotes, y achetent de +ces peaux ainsi préparées, les transportent en Perse, à Surate, dans +les Indes, où ils les vendent fort chère aux habitans riches, qui +en font des aigrettes pour leurs turbans, et pour le casque des +guerriers, et qui en parent leur chevaux. C'est de là qu'est venue +l'opinion, qu'une de ces especes d'oiseaux (l'oiseau de pardis) _n'a +point de pattes_. Les Hollandois ont accrédité ces fables, qui, en +jettant du merveilleux sur l'objet dont ils traffiquoient, +étoient propres à le rendre plus précieux, et á en rechausser la +valeur."--Voyage à la Nouvelle Guinée, p. 154.--D.] + +In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained almost +continually. The wind was at S.E., S.S.E., and S., which brought in a +short, chopping sea; and as there were breakers little more than two +cables length from the stern of our ship, her situation was none of +the safest. The surf broke so high against the shore, that we could +not land in our boats; but the day was not wholly lost, for the +natives ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the ships hogs and +roots, which they bartered as before. One of our visitors, on this +occasion, who offered some fish-hooks to sale, was observed to have +a very small parcel, tied to the string of one of them, which he +separated with great care, and reserved for himself, when he parted +with the hook. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and +spoke something of its being dead, at the same time saying, it was +bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more questions about it. On +seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents of this parcel, he was +requested to open it, which he did with great reluctance and some +difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that +it contained a thin bit of flesh, about two inches long, which, to +appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with salt water. It +struck us, that it might be human flesh, and that these people might, +perhaps, eat their enemies, as we knew that this was the practice of +some of the natives of the South Sea islands. The question being put +to the person who produced it, he answered, that the flesh was part +of a man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by him, was then asked, +whether it was their custom to eat those killed in battle? and he +immediately answered in the affirmative. + +There were some intervals of fair weather in the afternoon, and the +wind then inclined to the E. and N.E. but, in the evening, it veered +back again to S.S.E., and the rain also returned, and continued all +night. Very luckily, it was not attended with much wind. We had, +however, prepared for the worst, by dropping the small bower-anchor, +and striking our top-gallant-yards. + +At seven o'clock the next morning, a breeze of wind springing up at +N.E., I took up the anchors, with a view of removing the ship farther +out. The moment that the last anchor was up, the wind veered to the +E., which made it necessary to set all the sail we could, in order to +clear the shore; so that, before we had tolerable sea-room, we were +driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off, with a view +to regain the road; but having very little wind, and a strong current +against us, I found that this was not to be effected. I therefore +dispatched Messrs King and Williamson ashore, with three boats, for +water, and to trade for refreshments. At the same time, I sent an +order to Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see +that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one, +or perhaps a harbour, at the west end of the island, I was the less +anxious about getting back to my former station. But as I had sent +the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as possible, +notwithstanding which, at noon, we were three leagues to leeward. As +we drew near the west end of the island, we found the coast to round +gradually to the N.E., without forming a creek, or cove, to shelter a +vessel from the force of the swell, which rolled in from the N., +and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf, so that all hopes of +finding a harbour here vanished. + +Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we stood +out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very +averse to believe these people to be cannibals, notwithstanding the +suspicious circumstance which had happened the day before, we took +occasion now to make some more enquiries about this. A small wooden +instrument, beset with sharks teeth, had been purchased; and from its +resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New Zealanders, to dissect +the bodies of their enemies, it was suspected to have the same use +here. One of the natives being asked about this, immediately gave the +name of the instrument, and told us, that it was used to cut out the +fleshy part of the belly, when any person was killed. This explained +and confirmed the circumstance above-mentioned, of the person pointing +to his belly. The man, however, from whom we now had this information, +being asked, if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out? denied it +strongly, but, upon the question being repeated, shewed some degree of +fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached it, he made signs, +as he had done before, expressive of the use of the instrument. And an +old man, who sat foremost in the canoe, being then asked whether they +eat the flesh? answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly +at the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact, on being +asked again; and also said, it was excellent food, or, as he expressed +it, "savoury eating."[3] + +[Footnote 3: Of this there can be no doubt, if the assertions of those +who have tried it be entitled to credit. When the reluctance, then, to +use it is once overcome, there is no reason to think it would ever be +abandoned, if it could be safely and conveniently procured. We have +instances of this on record. Some persons necessitated, let us allow, +to have recourse to it, have continued the practice, where the doing +so required the repeated commission of murder. We formerly alluded to +instances of this kind, and we see in the case of the people before +us, that hunger is not the only motive for so abominable a repast. +Admitting even that it were the original one, we should expect the +practice to be relinquished whenever other food was to be had in +sufficient quantity. But this we know by many proofs is not the case; +and perhaps, indeed, it will be found, that this odium is fully as +prevalent in savage countries, where nature has been bountiful, as +in those where a more stinted hand has inflicted poverty on the +inhabitants. The causes, then, and the remedies of this most shocking +enormity, are to be looked for in other circumstances than the +scarcity or the profusion of food. Here we may be allowed to join in +opinion with Dr Robertson. "Human flesh was never used as common +food in any country, and the various relations concerning people +who reckoned it among the stated means of subsistence, flow from the +credulity and mistakes of travellers. The rancour of revenge first +prompted men to this barbarous action." In addition to his opinion and +that of the authors quoted by him, in his History of America, lib. 4, +the reader may advantageously consult Dr Forster's Observations. If +the sentiments maintained by these writers be correct, we may expect +to find cannibalism in almost every country where the spirit of +revenge is not curbed by principle, or directed by the authority of a +well-organized government. Here the evidence of these voyages and +of others which we could mention, must be allowed considerable +importance. There is the strongest reason, indeed, to believe that the +inhabitants of all the South Sea islands are now chargeable with this +inhumanity, or are but recently recovered from its dominion. We +might easily enlarge on this subject, but what has been said, it is +probable, is sufficient to direct the attention of the reader, which +is all we could find, room to do in the narrow compass of a note. +But it is probable, that to most persons, the observations of a late +navigator, Captain Krusenstern, will be admitted as decisive of the +question of fact, without further enquiry. They may have another +effect too, viz. to destroy that delusion which many persons labour +under as to the innocence and amiableness of mankind in a state of +nature. "Notwithstanding," says he, "the favourable account in Captain +Cook's voyages of the Friendly, the Society, and the Sandwich islands, +and the enthusiasm with which Forster undertakes their defence against +all those who should make use of any harsh expression with regard +to them, I cannot refrain from declaring the inhabitants of all the +islands of this ocean to be savages, but as ranking generally, perhaps +with a very trifling exception, with those men who are still one +degree below the brute creation. In a word, they are all cannibals: +We need only recollect the islanders who have already been proved to +belong to this class;--for instance, the New Zealanders, the cruel +inhabitants of Fidji, the Navigateur, the Mendoza, Washington, the +Tolomon, and Sandwich islands, the islands of Louisiade and New +Caledonia. The good name which the inhabitants of the Friendly islands +had acquired has suffered very much by the affair of Captain Bligh, +and the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, and it may now be maintained, with +some degree of certainty, that they have in this respect the same +taste as their neighbours in the Fidji islands, and the Isles des +Navigateurs." He has more to the same effect, and is particular in +shewing how even the Society islanders, whom he admits to be the +most humane and civilized of all the natives of this region, are +notwithstanding deformed with horrid crimes, from which the passage +to cannibalism is very easy, supposing even that certain suspicious +circumstances do not warrant the opinion that they are but recently +emerged from it. And as to the people of New Caledonia, again, of whom +Cook spoke so highly, he alludes to the more recent information of +D'Entrecasteaux, as giving indisputable proof of their being addicted +to the same abominable enormity.--E.] + +At seven o'clock in the evening, the boats returned, with two tons of +water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and some roots. Mr King +informed me, that a great number of the inhabitants were at the +watering or landing place. He supposed that they had come from all +parts of the island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat +hogs to barter, but my people had not commodities with them equal to +the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we had already +got as many on board as we could well manage for immediate use, and, +wanting the materials, we could not have salted them. Mr King also +told me, that a great deal of rain had fallen ashore, whereas, out +at sea, we had only a few showers; and that the surf had run so high, +that it was with great difficulty our men landed, and got back into +the boats. + +We had light airs and calms, by turns, with showers of rain, all +night, and at day-break, in the morning of the 24th, we found that the +currents had carried the ship to the N.W. and N., so that the west end +of the island, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the natives, +bore E., one league distant; another island, called Oreehoua, W. by +S., and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from S.W. by +W. to W.S.W. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at N.; and, as I expected +that this would bring the Discovery to sea, I steered for Oneeheow, +in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there, if I should +find a convenient place. I continued to steer for it, till past eleven +o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from it. But not +seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful whether they could see us, I +was fearful lest some ill consequence might attend our separating +so far. I therefore gave up the design of visiting Oneeheow for the +present, and stood back to Atooi, with an intent to anchor again in +the road, to complete our water. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the +northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable light airs and +calms, that continued till eleven at night, with which we stretched +to the S.E., till day-break in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked +and stood in for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us; and, soon +after, we were joined by the Discovery. + +We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road, +which, though so near, we never could recover, for what we gained at +one time, we lost at another; so that, by the morning of the 29th, the +currents had carried us westward, within three leagues of Oneeheow. +Being tired with plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of +getting back to Atooi, and came to the resolution of trying, whether +we could not procure what we wanted at the other island, which was +within our reach. With this view, I sent the master in a boat, to +sound the coast, to look out for a landing-place, and, if he should +find one, to examine if fresh water could be conveniently got in +its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his commission, we +followed, under an easy sail, with the ships. As soon as we were +abreast, or to the westward of the south point of Oneeheow, we found +thirty, twenty-five, and twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of coral +sand, a mile from the shore. + +At ten o'clock the master returned, and reported that he had landed in +one place, but could find no fresh water; and that there was anchorage +all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward, and +some of the islanders, who had come off to the ships, informing us, +that fresh water might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor +before it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile +from the shore. The S.E. point of the island bore S. 65° E., three +miles distant; the other extreme of the island bore N. by E., about +two or three miles distant; a peaked hill, inland, N.E. 1/4 E.; and +another island, called Tahoora, which was discovered the preceding +evening, bore S. 61° W., distant seven leagues. + +Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing +some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The +people in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally +well acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by +the names of _hamaite_ and _toe_, parting readily with all their +commodities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes +soon reached the ships, after they had anchored; but the natives in +these seemed to have no other object, than to pay us a formal visit. +Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and +not quitting that humble posture, till they were desired to get up. +They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in +the canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of +Atooi; and, at times, all joining in a song, not remarkable for its +melody, though performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon +their breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board did +not stay long; and before they departed, some of them requested our +permission to lay down, on the deck, locks of their hair. + +These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again, +this day, the curious enquiry, whether they were cannibals; and the +subject did not take its rise from any questions of ours, but from +a circumstance that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the +islanders, who wanted to get in at the gun-room port, was refused, and +at the same time asked, whether, if he should come in, we would kill +and eat him? accompanying this question with signs so expressive, that +there could be no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening +to retort the question as to this practice; and a person behind the +other, in the canoe, who paid great attention to what was passing, +immediately answered, that if we were killed on shore, they would +certainly eat us. He spoke with so little emotion, that it appeared +plainly to be his meaning, that they would not destroy us for that +purpose, but that their eating us would be the consequence of our +being at enmity with them. I have availed myself of Mr Anderson's +collections for the decision of this matter, and am sorry to say, +that I cannot see the least reason to hesitate in pronouncing it to +be certain, that the horrid banquet of human flesh is as much relished +here, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand. + +In the afternoon, I sent Lieutenant Gore, with three armed boats, to +look for the most convenient landing-place; and, when on shore, to +search for fresh water. In the evening he returned, having landed +at the village above-mentioned, and acquainted me that he had been +conducted to a well half a mile up the country; but, by his account, +the quantity of water it contained was too inconsiderable for our +purpose, and the road leading to it exceedingly bad. + +On the 30th, I sent Mr Gore ashore again, with a guard of marines, and +a party to trade with the natives for refreshments. I intended to have +followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the +surf had increased so much by this time, that I was fearful, if I got +ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really happened to +our people who had landed with Mr Gore, the communication between them +and the ships, by our own boats, being stopped. In the evening, they +made a signal for the boats, which were sent accordingly; and, not +long after, they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tolerable +quantity of both had been procured in the course of the day; but the +surf was so great, that the greatest part of both these articles had +been lost in conveying them to the boats. The officer and twenty men, +deterred by the danger of coming off, were left ashore all night; and, +by this unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, which, as +I have already mentioned, I wished so heartily to prevent, and vainly +imagined I had effectually guarded against. The violence of the surf, +which our own boats could not act against, did not hinder the +natives from coming off to the ships in their canoes. They brought +refreshments with them, which were purchased in exchange for nails, +and pieces of iron-hoops; and I distributed a good many pieces of +ribbon, and some buttons, as bracelets, amongst the women in the +canoes. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon +his breast, and upon those of others were the figures of men badly +imitated. These visitors informed us, that there was no chief, or +_Hairee_, of this island; but that it was subject to Teneooneoo, a +chief of Atooi; which island, they said, was not governed by a single +chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of +_moe_, or prostration; and, amongst others, they named, Otaeaio and +Terarotoa. Among other things, which these people now brought off, was +a small drum, almost like those of Otaheite. + +About ten or eleven o'clock at night, the wind veered to the S., and +the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With such appearances, thinking +that we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be +taken up, and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came +to again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to +be unnecessary; for the wind, soon after, veered to N.E., from which +quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very heavy +showers of rain. + +This weather continued all the next day; and the sea ran so high, that +we had no manner of communication with our party on shore; and even +the natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their +canoes. In the evening, I sent the master in a boat up to the S.E. +head, or point of the island, to try if he could land under it. He +returned with a favourable report; but it was too late, now, to send +for our party till the next morning; and thus they had another night +to improve their intercourse with the natives. + +Encouraged by the master's report, I sent a boat to the S.E. point, +as soon as day-light returned, with an order to Mr Gore, that, if +he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were, to +march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, +one of the crew swam ashore, and carried the order. On the return of +the boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the point, +to bring the party on board; taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, +a boar and sow-pig of the English breed, and the seeds of melons, +pumpkins, and onions, being very desirous of benefiting these poor +people, by furnishing them with some additional articles of food. I +landed with the greatest ease, under the west side of the point, and +found my party already there, with some of the natives in company. To +one of them, whom Mr Gore had observed assuming some command over +the rest, I gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these +well-intended presents at Atooi, had we not been so unexpectedly +driven from it. + +While the people were engaged in filling four water-casks, from a +small stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked a little way up +the country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two +others carrying the two pigs. As soon as we got upon a rising ground, +I stopped to look round me, and observed a woman, on the opposite side +of the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who attended +me. Upon this, the chief began to mutter something which I supposed +was a prayer; and the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk +round me all the time, making, at least, a dozen circuits before the +other had finished his oration. This ceremony being performed; we +proceeded, and presently met people coming from all parts, who, on +being called to by my attendants, threw themselves prostrate on their +faces, till I was out of sight. The ground, through which I passed, +was in a state of nature, very stony, and the soil seemed poor. It +was, however, covered with shrubs and plants, some of which perfumed +the air, with a more delicious fragrancy than I had met with at any +other of the islands visited by us in this ocean. Our people, who had +been obliged to remain so long on shore, gave me the same account +of those parts of the island which they had traversed. They met with +several salt ponds, some of which had a little water remaining, but +others had none; and the salt that was left in them was so thin, that +no great quantity could have been procured. There was no appearance of +any running stream; and though they found some small wells, in which +the fresh water was tolerably good, it seemed scarce. The habitations +of the natives were thinly scattered about; and it was supposed, that +there could not be more than five hundred people upon the island, as +the greatest part were seen at the marketing-place of our party, and +few found about the houses by those who walked up the country. They +had an opportunity of observing the method of living amongst the +natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did not, +however, see any instance of the men and women eating together; and +the latter seemed generally associated in companies by themselves. It +was found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the _dooe dooe_ for +lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked their hogs +in ovens, but, contrary to the practice of the Society and Friendly +Islands, split the carcases through their whole length. They met +with a positive proof of the existence of the _taboo_ (or, as they +pronounce it, the _tafoo_), for one woman fed another who was +under that interdiction. They also observed some other mysterious +ceremonies; one of which was performed by a woman, who took a small +pig, and threw it into the surf, till it was drowned, and then tied up +a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the same manner. The +same woman, at another time, beat with a stick upon a man's shoulders, +who sat down for that purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be +paid here to owls, which they have very tame; and it was observed to +be a pretty general practice amongst them, to pull out one of their +teeth;[4] for which odd custom, when asked the reason, the only answer +that could be got was, that it was _teeha_, which was also the reason +assigned for another of their practices, the giving a lock of their +hair. + +[Footnote 4: It is very remarkable, that, in this custom, which one +would think is so unnatural, as not to be adopted by two different +tribes, originally unconnected, the people of this island, and +Dampier's natives on the west side of New Holland, at such an immense +distance, should be found to agree.--D.] + +After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and +we had purchased from the natives a few roots, a little salt, and some +salted fish, I returned on board with all the people, intending +to visit the island the next day. But, about seven o'clock in the +evening, the anchor of the Resolution started, and she drove off the +bank. As we had a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor +was at the bows; and then we had the launch to hoist up alongside, +before we could make sail. By this unlucky accident, we found +ourselves, at day-break next morning, three leagues to the leeward of +our last station; and, foreseeing that it would require more time to +recover it than I chose to spend, I made the signal for the Discovery +to weigh and join us. This was done about noon, and we immediately +stood away to the northward, in prosecution of our voyage. Thus, after +spending more time about these islands than was necessary to have +answered all our purposes, we were obliged to leave them before we had +completed our water, and got from them such a quantity of refreshments +as their inhabitants were both able and willing to have supplied +us with. But, as it was, our ship procured from them provisions, +sufficient for three weeks at least; and Captain Clerke, more +fortunate than us, got, of their vegetable productions, a supply that +lasted his people upward of two months. The observations I was enabled +to make, combined with those of Mr Anderson, who was a very useful +assistant on all such occasions, will furnish materials for the next +section. + + +SECTION XII. + +_The Situation of the Islands now discovered.--Their +Names.--Called the Sandwich Islands.--Atooi described.--The +Soil.--Climate.--Vegetable Productions.--Birds.--Fish.--Domestic +Animals.--Persons of the Inhabitants.--Their +Disposition.--Dress.--Ornaments.--Habitations.--Food.--Cookery.-- +Amusements.--Manufactures.--Working-tools.--Knowledge +of Iron accounted for.--Canoes.--Agriculture.--Account of one of +their Chiefs.--Weapons.--Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and +Otaheite.--Their Language the same.--Extent of this Nation throughout +the Pacific Ocean.--Reflections on the useful Situation of the +Sandwich Islands._ + +It is worthy of observation, that the islands in the Pacific Ocean, +which our late voyages have added to the geography of the globe, +have been generally found lying in groups or clusters; the single +intermediate islands, as yet discovered, being few in proportion +to the others; though, probably, there are many more of them still +unknown, which serve as steps between the several clusters. Of what +number this newly-discovered Archipelago consists, must be left for +future investigation. We saw five of them, whose names, as given to +us by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Orrehoua, and Tahoora. +The last is a small elevated island, lying four or five leagues from +the S.E. point of Oneeheow, in the direction of S., 69° W. We were +told, that it abounds with birds, which are its only inhabitants. We +also got some information of the existence of a low uninhabited island +in the neighbourhood, whose name is Tammata pappa. Besides these +six, which we can distinguish by their names, it appeared, that the +inhabitants of those with whom we had intercourse, were acquainted +with some other islands both to the eastward and westward. I named the +whole group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. +Those that I saw, are situated between the latitude of 21° 30', and +22° 15' N., and between the longitude of 199° 20', and 201° 30' E. + +Of Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands, seen by us, which lies +in the latitude of 21° 36', we could get no other intelligence, but +that it is high land, and is inhabited. + +We had opportunities of knowing some particulars about Oneeheow, which +have been mentioned already. It lies seven leagues to the westward +of our anchoring-place at Atooi; and is not above fifteen leagues in +circuit. Its chief vegetable produce is yams, if we may judge from +what was brought to us by the natives. They have salt, which they call +_patai_, and is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure both fish +and pork; and some salt fish, which we got from them, kept very well, +and were found to be very good. This island is mostly low land, except +the part facing Atooi, which rises directly from the sea to a good +height; as does also the S.E. point of it, which terminates in a round +hill. It was on the west side of this point where our ships anchored. + +Of Oreehoua we know nothing more than that it is a small elevated +island, lying close to the north side of Oneeheow. + +Atooi, which is the largest, being the principal scene of our +operations, I shall now proceed to lay before my readers what +information I was able to collect about it, either from actual +observation, while on shore, or from conversation with its +inhabitants, who were perpetually on board the ships while we lay at +anchor; and who, in general, could be tolerably well understood, by +those of us who had acquired an acquaintance with the dialects of the +South Pacific Islands. It is, however, to be regretted, that we should +have been obliged, so soon, to leave a place, which, as far as our +opportunities of knowing reached, seemed to be highly worthy of a more +accurate examination. + +Atooi, from what we saw of it, is, at least, ten leagues in length +from east to west; from whence its circuit may nearly be guessed, +though it appears to be much broader at the east than at the west +point, if we may judge from the double range of hills which appeared +there. The road, or anchoring-place, which we occupied, is on the +south-west side of the island, about six miles from the west end, +before a village which has the name of Wymoa. As far as we sounded, we +found, that the bank has a fine grey sand at the bottom, and is free +from rocks; except a little to the eastward of the village, where +there spits out a shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers; but +they are not far from the shore. This road would be entirely sheltered +from the trade-wind, if the height of the land, over which it blows, +did not alter its direction, and make it follow that of the coast; so +that it blows at N.E., on one side of the island, and at E.S.E., or +S.E., on the other, falling obliquely upon the shore. Thus the road, +though situated on the lee side of the island, is a little exposed to +the trade-wind; but, notwithstanding this defect, is far from being a +bad station, and much superior to those which necessity obliges ships +daily to use, in regions where the winds are both more variable and +more boisterous; as at Teneriffe, Madeira, the Azores, and elsewhere. +The landing too is more easy than at most of those places; and, unless +in very bad weather, always practicable. The water to be got in the +neighbourhood is excellent, and easy to be conveyed to the boats. +But no wood can be cut at any distance, convenient enough to bring it +from, unless the natives could be prevailed upon to part with the few +_etooa_ trees (for so they call the _cordia sebestina_,) that grow +about their villages, or a sort called _dooe dooe_, that grow farther +up the country. + +The land, as to its general appearance, does not, in the least, +resemble any of the islands we have hitherto visited within the +tropic, on the south side of the _equator_; if we except its hills +near the centre, which are high, but slope gently to the sea, or lower +lands. Though it be destitute of the delightful borders of Otaheite, +and of the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which +at once afford a friendly shelter from the scorching sun, and an +enchanting prospect to the eye, and food for the natives, which may +be truly said to drop from the trees into their mouths, without the +laborious task of rearing; though, I say, Atooi be destitute of these +advantages, its possessing a greater quantity of gently-rising land, +renders it, in some measure, superior to the above favourite islands, +as being more capable of improvement. + +The height of the land within, the quantity of clouds which we saw, +during the whole time we staid, hanging over it, and frequently on +the other parts, seems to put it beyond all doubt, that there is a +sufficient supply of water; and that there are some running streams +which we did not see, especially in the deep valleys, at the entrance +of which the villages commonly stand. From the wooded part to the sea, +the ground is covered with an excellent sort of grass, about two feet +high, which grows sometimes in tufts, and, though not very thick +at the place where we were, seemed capable of being converted into +plentiful crops of fine hay. But not even a shrub grows naturally on +this extensive space. + +In the break, or narrow valley, through which we had our road to the +_morai_, the soil is of a brownish black colour, somewhat loose; but +as we advanced upon the high ground, it changed to a reddish brown, +more stiff and clayey, though, at this time, brittle from its dryness. +It is most probably the same all over the cultivated parts; for, what +adhered to most of the potatoes, bought by us, which, no doubt, came +from very different spots, was of this sort. Its quality, however, may +be better understood from its products, than from its appearance. For +the vale, or moist ground, produces _taro_, of a much larger size than +any we had ever seen; and the higher ground furnishes sweet potatoes, +that often weigh ten, and sometimes twelve or fourteen pounds; very +few being under two or three. + +The temperature of the climate may be easily guessed from the +situation of the island. Were we to judge of it from our experience, +it might be said to be very variable; for, according to the generally +received opinion, it was now the season of the year, when the weather +is supposed to be most settled, the sun being at his greatest annual +distance. The heat was at this time very moderate; and few of those +inconveniences, which many tropical countries are subject to, either +from heat or moisture, seem to be experienced here, as the habitations +of the natives are quite close; and they salt both fish and pork, +which keep well, contrary to what has usually been observed to be the +case, when this operation is attempted in hot countries. Neither +did we find any dews of consequence, which may, in some measure, be +accounted for, by the lower part of the country being destitute of +trees. + +The rock that forms the sides of the Valley, and which seems to be +the same with that seen by us at different parts of the coast, is +a greyish black, ponderous stone; but honey-combed, with some +very minute shining particles, and some spots of a rusty colour +interspersed. The last gives it often a reddish cast, when at a +distance. It is of an immense depth, but seems divided into _strata_, +though nothing is interposed. For the large pieces always broke off +to a determinate thickness, without appearing to have adhered to those +below them. Other stones are probably much more various, than in +the southern islands. For, during our short stay, besides the _lapis +lydius_, which seems common all over the South Sea, we found a species +of cream-coloured whetstone, sometimes variegated with blacker or +whiter veins, as marble; or in pieces, as _brecciæ_; and common +writing slate, as well as a coarser sort; but we saw none of them in +their natural state; and the natives brought some pieces of a coarse +whitish pumice-stone. We got also a brown sort of _hæmatites_, which, +from being strongly attracted by the magnet, discovered the quantity +of metal that it contained, and seems to belong to the second +species of Cronstedt, though Linnæus has placed it amongst his +_intractabilia_. But its variety could not be discovered; for what we +saw of it, as well as the slates and whetstones, was cut artificially. + +Besides the vegetable articles bought by us as refreshments, amongst +which were, at least, five or six varieties of plantains, the island +produces bread-fruit; though it seems to be scarce, as we saw only one +tree, which was large, and had some fruit upon it. There are also a +few cocoa-palms; yams, as we were told, for we saw none; the _kappe_ +of the Friendly Islands, or Virginian _arum_; the _etooa_ tree, and +sweet-smelling _gardenia_, or _cape jasmine_. We saw several trees +of the _dooe dooe_, so useful at Otaheite, as bearing the oily nuts, +which are stuck upon a kind of skewer, and burnt as candles. Our +people saw them used, in the same manner, at Oneeheow. We were not +on shore at Atooi but in the day-time, and then we saw the natives +wearing these nuts, hung on strings, round the neck. There is a +species of _sida_, or Indian mallow, somewhat altered, by the climate, +from what we saw at Christmas Island; the _morinda citrifolia_, +which is called _none_; a species of _convolvulus_; the _ava_, or +intoxicating pepper; and great numbers of gourds. These last grow to +a very large size, and are of a vast variety of shapes, which probably +is effected by art. Upon the dry sand, about the village, grew a +plant, that we had never seen in these seas, of the size of a common +thistle, and prickly, like that; but bearing a fine flower, almost +resembling a white poppy. This, with another small one, were the only +uncommon plants, which our short excursion gave us an opportunity of +observing. + +The scarlet birds, already described, which were brought for sale, +were never met with alive; but we saw a single small one, about the +size of a canary-bird, of a deep crimson colour; a large owl; two +large brown hawks, or kites; and a wild duck. The natives mentioned +the names of several other birds; amongst which we knew the _otoo_, or +blueish heron; and the _torata_, a sort of whimbrel, which are known +by the same names at Otaheite; and it is probable, that there are a +great many sorts, judging by the quantity of fine yellow, green, and +very small, velvet-like, black feathers used upon the cloaks, and +other ornaments worn by the inhabitants. + +Fish and other marine productions were, to appearance, not various; +as, besides the small mackarel, we only saw common mullets; a sort of +a dead white, or chalky colour; a small brownish rock-fish, spotted +with blue; a turtle, which was penned up in a pond; and three or four +sorts of fish salted. The few shell-fish that we saw, were chiefly +converted into ornaments, though they neither had beauty nor novelty +to recommend them. + +The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic +animals that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with +at the South Pacific Islands. There were also small lizards, and some +rats, resembling those seen at every island at which we had, as yet, +touched. + +The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some +exceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking +features, which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a +keen intelligent disposition. Their visage, especially amongst the +women, is sometimes round; but others have it long; nor can we say +that they are distinguished as a nation, by any general cast of +countenance. Their colour is nearly of a nut-brown; and. it may be +difficult to make a nearer comparison, if we take in all the different +hues of that colour; but some individuals are darker. The women have +been already mentioned as being little more delicate than the men in +their formation; and I may say, that, with a very few exceptions, they +have little claim to those peculiarities that distinguish the sex in +other countries. There is, indeed, a more remarkable equality in the +size, colour, and figure of both sexes, than in most places I have +visited. However, upon the whole, they are far from being ugly, and +appear to have few natural deformities of any kind. Their skin is not +very soft, nor shining; perhaps for want of oiling, which is practised +at the southern islands; but their eyes and teeth are, in general, +very tolerable. The hair, for the greatest part is straight, though in +some frizzling; and though its natural colour be commonly black, it +is stained, as at the Friendly and other islands. We saw but few +instances of corpulence; and these oftener amongst the women than the +men; but it was chiefly amongst the latter that personal defects were +observed, though, if any of them can claim a share of beauty, it was +most conspicuous amongst the young men. + +They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers; leaving their +canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving under them, and +swimming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to +see women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high, +that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without +endangering their little ones, swim to the shore, through a sea that +looked dreadful. + +They seem to be blest with a frank cheerful disposition; and were I to +draw any comparisons, should say, that they are equally free from the +fickle levity which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the +sedate east observable amongst many of those of Tongataboo. They seem +to live very sociably in their intercourse with one another; and, +except the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in most of the +people we have visited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly +to us. And it does their sensibility no little credit, without +flattering ourselves, that when they saw the various articles of our +European manufacture, they could not help expressing their surprise, +by a mixture of joy and concern, that seemed to apply the case as a +lesson of humility to themselves; and, on all occasions, they appeared +deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; a +behaviour which equally exempts their national character from the +preposterous pride of the more polished Japanese, and of the ruder +Greenlander. It was a pleasure to observe with how much affection +the women managed their infants, and how readily the men lent their +assistance to such a tender office; thus sufficiently distinguishing +themselves from those savages, who esteem a wife and child as things +rather necessary, than desirable or worthy of their notice. + +From the numbers which we saw collected at every village, as we sailed +past, it may be supposed, that the inhabitants of this island +are pretty numerous. Any computation, that we make, can be only +conjectural. But, that some notion may be formed, which shall not +greatly err on either side, I would suppose, that, including the +straggling houses, there might be, upon the whole island, sixty such, +villages, as that before which we anchored; and that, allowing five +persons to each house, there would be, in every village, five hundred; +or thirty thousand upon the island. This number is certainly not +exaggerated; for we had sometimes three thousand persons at least upon +the beach; when it could not be supposed that above a tenth part of +the inhabitants were present. + +The common dress both of the women and of the men has been already +described. The first have often much larger pieces of cloth wrapped +round them, reaching from just below the breasts to the hams or lower; +and several were seen with pieces thrown loosely about the shoulders, +which covered the greatest part of the body; but the children when +very young are quite naked. They wear nothing upon the head; but the +hair in both sexes is cut in different forms; and the general fashion, +especially among the women, is to have it long before and short +behind. The men often had it cut or shaved on each side, in such a +manner, that the remaining part, in some measure, resembles the crest +of their caps or helmets formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem +very careless about their hair, and have nothing like combs to dress +it with. Instances of wearing it in a singular manner were sometimes +met with among the men, who twist it into a number of separate +parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a +finger; though the greatest part of these, which are so long that they +reach far down the back, we observed were artificially fixed upon the +head over their own hair.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The print of Horn Island, which we meet with in Mr +Dalrymple's account of Le Maire and Schouten's voyage, represents some +of the natives of that island with such long tails hanging from their +heads as are here described. See Dalrymple's Voyages to the South +Pacific, vol. ii. p. 58.--D] + +It is remarkable, that, contrary to the general practice of the +islands we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of +the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated; nor have they +the least idea of wearing ornaments in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, +adorn themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, +like our hat-string, often above a hundred-fold; exactly like those +of Wateeoo; only that instead of the two little balls on the middle +before, they fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, about two +inches long, with a broad hook turning forward at its lower part well +polished. They have likewise necklaces of many strings of very small +shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And sometimes a +small human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, +is hung round the neck. The women also wear bracelets of a single +shell, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed and well +polished, fixed by a string drawn very closely through them; or others +of hogs' teeth laid parallel to each other, with the concave part +outward, and the points cut off, fastened together as the former; some +of which made only of large boars' tusks are very elegant. The men +sometimes wear plumes of the tropic-bird's feathers stuck in their +heads; or those of cocks, fastened round neat polished sticks two feet +long, commonly decorated at the lower part with _oora_; and for the +same purpose, the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick +with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the head a +kind of ornament of a finger's thickness or more, covered with red +and yellow feathers curiously varied and tied behind; and on the arm, +above the elbow, a kind of broad shell-work, grounded upon net-work. + +The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particular part, +as the Otaheiteans and those of Tongataboo. Sometimes there are a few +marks upon their hands or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we +could observe none at all; though a few individuals had more of +this sort of ornament, than we had usually seen at other places, and +ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines and figures on the +arms and fore-part of the body; on which latter, some of them had the +figure of the _taame_, or breast-plate of Otaheite, though we did not +meet with the thing itself amongst them. Contrary to the custom of the +Society and Friendly Islands, they do not slit or cut off part of the +_prepuce_; but have it universally drawn over the _glans_, and tied +with a string as practised by some of the natives of New Zealand. + +Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, there +is no appearance of defence or fortification near any of them; and the +houses are scattered about without any order, either with respect to +their distances from each other, or their position in any particular +direction. Neither is there any proportion as to their size; some +being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty +or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their figure is +not unlike oblong corn or hay-stacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may +be conceived of them, if we suppose the roof of a barn placed on the +ground, in such a manner as to form a high, acute ridge, with two +very low sides hardly discernible at a distance. The gable at each end +corresponding to the sides, makes these habitations perfectly close +all round; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid +on slender poles disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made +indifferently in the end or side, and is an oblong hole, so low, that +one must rather creep than walk in; and is often shut up by a board +of planks fastened together, which serves as a door, but having no +hinges, must be removed occasionally. No light enters the house but +by this opening; and though such close habitations may afford a +comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill adapted to the +warmth of the climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean; and +their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried grass, over +which they spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind +of bench about three feet high, on which their household utensils are +placed. The catalogue is not long. It consists of gourd-shells, which +they convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as +baskets to contain their victuals, and other things with covers of +the same; and of a few wooden bowls and trenchers of different sizes. +Judging from what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, +there can be no doubt, that the greatest part of their vegetable +food consists of sweet potatoes, _taro_, and plantains; and that +bread-fruit and yams are rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal +food they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run +without restraint about the houses; and if they eat dogs, which is not +improbable, their stock of these seemed to be very considerable. The +great number of fishing-hooks found amongst them, shewed that they +derive no inconsiderable supply of animal food from the sea. But it +should seem, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness of +their coast often interrupts the business of catching them; as it +may be naturally supposed, that no set of people would ever think of +preserving quantities of food artificially, if they could depend +upon a daily regular supply of it in its fresh state. This sort of +reasoning, however, will not account for their custom of salting their +pork, as well as their fish, which are preserved in gourd-shells. The +salt, of which they use a great quantity for this purpose, is of a red +colour, not very coarse, and seems to be much the same with what our +stragglers found at Christmas Island. It has its colour doubtless from +a mixture of the mud at the bottom of the part where it is formed; for +some of it that had adhered in lumps, was of a sufficient whiteness +and purity. + +They bake their vegetable food with heated stones, as at the southern +islands; and from the vast quantity, which we saw dressed at one time, +we suspected that the whole village, or, at least, a considerable +number of people joined in the use of a common oven. We did not see +them dress any animal food at this island; but Mr Gore's party, as +already mentioned, had an opportunity of satisfying themselves, that +it was dressed at Oneeheow in the same sort of ovens, which leaves no +doubt of this being also the practice in Atooi; especially as we met +with no utensil there that could be applied to the purpose of stewing +or boiling. The only artificial dish we met with was a _taro_ pudding, +which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was greedily +devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates or +trenchers; and the women, as far as we could judge from one instance, +if restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as at +Otaheite, are at least permitted to eat in the same place near them. + +Their amusements seem pretty various; for during our short +stay, several were discovered. The dances at which they used the +feathered-cloaks and caps were not seen; but from the motions which +they made with their hands on other occasions, when they sung, we +could form some judgment that they are, in some degree at least, +similar to those we had met with at the southern islands, though not +executed so skilfully. Neither had they amongst them either flutes or +reeds, and the only two musical instruments which we observed were +of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them does not produce a melody +exceeding that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be called +a conic cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base above a foot +high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant, the upper part of which, +and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful red feathers, and to the +point, or lower part, is fixed a gourd-shell larger than the fist. +Into this is put something to rattle, which is done by holding the +instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving it from +place to place briskly, either to different sides or backward and +forward just before the face, striking the breast with the other hand +at the same time. The other musical instrument (if either of them +deserve that name) was a hollow vessel of wood, like a platter, +combined with the use of two sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw +a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as +we do a fiddle with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was +smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slower measure; +at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow vessel that +lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune that was by +no means disagreeable. This music was accompanied by the vocal +performance of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender +effect. + +We observed great numbers of small polished rods, about four or five +feet long, somewhat thicker than the rammer of a musket, with a tuft +of long white dog's hair fixed on the small end. These are probably +used in their diversions. We saw a person take one of them in his +hand, and holding it up, give a smart stroke, till he brought it into +an horizontal position, striking with the foot on the same side upon +the ground, and with his other hand beating his breast at the same +time. They play at bowls with pieces of whetstone mentioned before, of +about a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded +at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polished; and they have +other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy reddish, brown clay, +neatly glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a +coarse dark-grey slate. They also use, in the manner that we throw +quoits, small flat rounded pieces of the writing slate of the diameter +of the bowls, but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well +polished. From these circumstances, one would be induced to think that +their games are rather trials of skill than of strength. + +In every thing manufactured by these people, there appears to be an +uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their cloth, which is +the principal manufacture, is made from the _morus papyrifera_; and +doubtless in the same manner as at Otaheite and Tongataboo; for +we bought some of the grooved sticks with which it is beaten. Its +texture, however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the +cloth of either of the other places; but in colouring or staining it, +the people of Atooi display a superiority of taste, by the endless +variation of figures which they execute. One would suppose, on seeing +a number of their pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from +some mercer's shop, in which the most elegant productions of China +and Europe are collected; besides some original patterns of their own. +Their colours, indeed, except the red, are not very bright; but the +regularity of the figures and stripes is truly surprising; for, as +far as we know, they have nothing like stamps or prints, to make the +impressions. In what manner they produce their colours, we had not +opportunities of learning; but, besides the party coloured sorts, they +have some pieces of plain white cloth, and others of a single colour, +particularly dark-brown and light-blue. In general, the pieces which +they brought to us were about two feet broad, and four or five yards +long, being the form and quantity that they use for their common dress +or _maro_; and even these we sometimes found were composed of pieces +sewed together; an art which we did not find to the southward, but +is strongly, though not very neatly, performed here. There is also a +particular sort that is thin, much resembling oil-cloth; and which is +actually either oiled or soaked in some kind of varnish, and seems to +resist the action of water pretty well. + +They fabricate a great many white mats, which are strong, with many +red stripes, rhombuses, and other figures, interwoven on one side; +and often pretty large. These probably make a part of their dress +occasionally; for they put them on their backs when they offered them +to sale. But they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they +spread over their floors to sleep upon. + +They stain their gourd-shells prettily with undulated lines, +triangles, and other figures of a black colour; instances of which +we saw practised at New Zealand. And they seem to possess the art of +varnishing; for some of these stained gourd-shells are covered with +a kind of lacker; and, on other occasions, they use a strong size, or +gluey substance, to fasten their things together. Their wooden +dishes and, bowls, out of which they drink their _ova_, are of the +_etooa_-tree, or _cordia_, as neat as if made in our turning-lathe, +and perhaps better polished. And amongst their articles of handicraft, +may be reckoned small square fans of mat or wicker-work, with handles +tapering from them of the same, or of wood; which are neatly wrought +with small cords of hair, and fibres of the cocoa-nut coir intermixed. +The great variety of fishing-hooks are ingeniously made; some of bone, +others of wood pointed with bone, and many of pearl shell. Of the +last, some are like a sort that we saw at Tongataboo; and others +simply curved, as the common sort at Otaheite, as well as the wooden +ones. The bones are mostly small, and composed of two pieces; and all +the different sorts have a barb, either on the inside, like ours, +or on the outside, opposite the same part; but others have both, the +outer one being farthest from the point. Of this last sort, one was +procured nine inches long, of a single piece of bone, which doubtless +belonged to some large fish. The elegant form and polish of this could +not certainly be outdone by any European artist, even if he should +add all his knowledge in design to the number and convenience of +his tools. They polish their stones by constant friction, with +pumice-stone in water; and such of their working instruments, or +tools, as I saw, resembled those of the Southern Islands. Their +hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly of the same pattern, and +either made of the same sort of blackish stone, or of a clay-coloured +one. They have also little instruments, made of a single shark's +tooth, some of which are fixed to the fore-part of a dog's jawbone, +and others to a thin wooden handle of the same shape; and at the other +end there is a bit of string fastened through a small perforation. +These serve as knives occasionally, and are perhaps used in carving. + +The only iron tools, or rather bits of iron, seen amongst them, and +which they had before our arrival, were a piece of iron hoop, +about two inches long, fitted into a wooden handle;[2] and another +edge-tool, which our people guessed to be made of the point of a +broad-sword. Their having the actual possession of these, and their +so generally knowing the use of this metal, inclined some on board +to think that we had not been the first European visitors of these +islands. But it seems to me, that the very great surprise expressed +by them on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance of the use of +fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with such a notion. There are many +ways by which such people may get pieces of iron, or acquire the +knowledge of the existence of such a metal, without having ever had +an immediate connection with nations that use it. It can hardly be +doubted, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of this sea, +before Magalhaens led the way into it; for no discoverer, immediately +after his voyage, ever found any of this metal in their possession; +though, in the course of our late voyages, it has been observed, +that the use of it was known at several islands, to which no former +European ships had ever, as far as we know, found their way. At all +the places where Mendana touched in his two voyages, it must have been +seen and left; and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt, to +all the various islands with which those whom he had visited had any +immediate intercourse. It might even be carried farther; and +where specimens of this favourite article could not be procured, +descriptions might, in some measure, serve to make it known when +afterward seen. The next voyage to the southward of the Line, in which +any intercourse was had with the natives of this ocean, was that of +Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the Island of Handsome People, and +at Tierra del Espiritu Santo; at all which places, and at those with +whom they had any communication, it must of consequence have been made +known. To him succeeded, in this navigation, Le Maire and Schouten, +whose connections with the natives commenced much farther to the +eastward, and ended at Cocos and Horn Islands. It was not surprising, +that when I visited Tongataboo, in 1773, I should find a bit of iron +there, as we knew that Tasman had visited it before me; but let +us suppose, that he had never discovered the Friendly Islands, our +finding iron, amongst them would have occasioned much speculation; +though we have mentioned before the method by which they had gained +a renewal of their knowledge of this metal, which confirms my +hypothesis. For Neeootaboo taboo, or Boscawen's Island, where Captain +Wallis's ships left it, and from whence Poulaho received it, lies +some degrees to the north-west of Tongataboo. It is well known, that +Roggewein lost one of his ships on the Pernicious Islands; which, from +their situation, are probably not unknown to, though not frequently +visited by, the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Islands. It is +equally certain, that these last people had a knowledge of iron, and +purchased it with the greatest avidity, when Captain Wallis discovered +Otaheite; and this knowledge could only have been acquired through +the medium of those neighbouring islands where it had been originally +left. Indeed, they acknowledge that this was actually the case; and +they have told us since, that they held it in such estimation before +Captain Wallis's arrival, that a chief of Otaheite, who had got two +nails into his possession, received no small emolument, by letting out +the use of these to his neighbours for the purpose of boring holes, +when their own methods failed, or were thought too tedious.[3] The +men of the Society Islands whom we found at Wateeoo, had been driven +thither, long after the knowledge and use of iron had thus been +introduced amongst their countrymen; and though probably they had +no specimen of it with them, they would naturally, and with ease, +communicate at that island their knowledge of this valuable material +by description. From the people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey's +Island might derive that desire to possess some of it, of which we had +proofs during our short intercourse with them. + +[Footnote 2: Captain King, we are told, purchased this, and had it in +his possession at the time of publishing this account.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: A similar instance of profitable revenue, drawn from the +use of nails by the chiefs of the Caroline Islands, is mentioned by +Father Cantova: "Si, par hazard, un vaisseau étranger laisse dans +leurs Isles quelques vieux morceaux de fer, ils appartiennent de +droit aux Tamoles, qui en font faire des outils, le mieux qu'il +est possible. Ces outils sent un fond le Tamole tire un revenu +considerable, car il les donne à louage, et ce louage se paye assez +chere."--P. 314.] + +The consideration of these facts sufficiently explains, how the +knowledge of iron has been conveyed throughout this ocean to islands +which never have had an immediate intercourse with Europeans; and it +may easily be conceived, that wherever the history of it only has been +reported, or a very small quantity of it has been left, the greater +eagerness will be shewn by the natives to get copious supplies of +it. The application of these particulars to the instance now under +consideration, is obvious. The people of Atooi and Oneeheow, without +having ever been visited by Europeans before us, might have received +it from intermediate islands lying between them and the Ladrones, +which have been frequented by the Spaniards almost ever since the date +of Magalhaens's voyage. Or if the distant western situation of the +Ladrones should render this solution less probable, is there not the +extensive continent of America to windward, where the Spaniards have +been settled for more than two hundred years; during which long period +of time, shipwrecks must have frequently happened on its coasts? +It cannot be thought at all extraordinary, that part of such wrecks +containing iron, should, by the easterly trade wind, be, from time to +time, cast upon islands scattered about this vast ocean. The distance +of Atooi from America is no argument against this supposition. But +even if it were, it would not destroy it. This ocean is traversed +every year by Spanish ships; and it is obvious, that, besides the +accident of losing a mast and its appendages, casks with iron hoops, +and many other things containing iron, may be thrown or may fall +overboard during so long a passage, and thus find their way to land. +But these are not mere conjectures and possibilities; for one of my +people actually did see some wood in one of the houses at Wymoa, which +he judged to be fir. It was worm-eaten, and the natives gave him to +understand, that it had been driven ashore by the waves of the +sea; and we had their own express testimony, that they had got the +inconsiderable specimens of iron, found amongst them, from some place +to the eastward. + +From this digression (if it can be called so) I return to the +observations made during our stay at Atooi; and some account must now +be given of their canoes. These, in general, are about twenty-four +feet long, and have the bottom, for the most part, formed of a single +piece or log of wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch, or an +inch and a half, and brought to a point at each end. The sides consist +of three boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly fitted and +lashed to the bottom part. The extremities, both at head and stern, +are a little raised, and both are made sharp, somewhat like a wedge; +but they flatten more abruptly; so that the two sideboards join each +other side by side, for more than a foot. As they are not more than +fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go single (for they +sometimes join them as at the other islands) have outriggers, which +are shaped and fitted with more judgment than any I had before seen. +They are rowed by paddles, such as we had generally met with; and +some of them have a light triangular sail, like those of the Friendly +Islands, extending to a mast and boom. The ropes used for their boats, +and the smaller cords for their fishing-tackle, are strong and well +made. + +What we saw of their agriculture, furnished sufficient proofs that +they are not novices in that art. The vale ground has already been +mentioned as one continued plantation of _taro_, and a few other +things, which have all the appearance of being well attended to. The +potatoe fields, and spots of sugar-cane, or plantains on the higher +grounds, are planted with the same regularity; and always in some +determinate figure, generally as a square or oblong; but neither +these, nor the others, are enclosed with any kind of fence, unless +we reckon the ditches in the low grounds such, which, it is more +probable, are intended to convey water to the _taro_. The great +quantity and goodness of these articles may also, perhaps, be as much +attributed to skilful culture as to natural fertility of soil, which +seems better adapted to them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees; +the few which we saw of these latter not being in a thriving state, +which will sufficiently account for the preference given to the +culture of the other articles, though more labour be required to +produce them. But, notwithstanding this skill in agriculture, the +general appearance of the island shewed, that it was capable of much +more extensive improvement, and of maintaining, at least, three times +the number of the inhabitants that are at present upon it; for the far +greater part of it, that now lies quite waste, seemed to be as good a +soil as those parts of it that are in cultivation. We must therefore +conclude, that these people, from some cause, which we were not long +enough amongst them to be able to trace, do not increase in that +proportion, which would make it necessary to avail themselves of +the extent of their island, toward raising a greater quantity of its +vegetable productions for their subsistence. + +Though I did not see a chief of any note, there were however several, +as the natives informed us, who reside upon Atooi, and to whom they +prostrate themselves as a mark of submission; which seems equivalent +to the _moe_, _moea_, paid to the chiefs of the Friendly Islands, and +is called here _hamoea_, or _moe_. Whether they were at first afraid +to shew themselves, or happened to be absent, I cannot say; but, after +I had left the island, one of these great men made his appearance, and +paid a visit to Captain Clerke, on board the Discovery. He came off +in a double canoe; and, like the king of the Friendly Islands, paid +no regard to the small canoes that happened to lie in his way, but +ran against, or over them, without endeavouring in the least to avoid +them. And it was not possible for these poor people to avoid him, for +they could not manage their canoes; it being a necessary mark of +their submission that they should lie down till he had passed. His +attendants helped him into the ship, and placed him on the gangway. +Their care of him did not cease then; for they stood round him, +holding each other by the hands; nor would they suffer any one to come +near him but Captain Clerke himself. He was a young man, clothed from +head to foot, and accompanied by a young woman, supposed to be his +wife. His name was said to be Tamahano. Captain Clerke made him some +suitable presents; and received from him, in return, a large bowl, +supported by two figures of men, the carving of which, both as to the +design and execution, shewed some degree of skill. This bowl, as our +people were told, used to be filled with the _kava_ or _ava_, (as it +is called at Otaheite), which liquor they prepare and drink here as at +the other islands in this ocean. Captain Clerke could not prevail +upon this great man to go below, nor to move from the place where his +attendants had first fixed him. After staying some time in the ship, +he was carried again into his canoe, and returned to the island, +receiving the same honours from all the natives as when he came on +board. The next day several messages were sent to Captain Clerke, +inviting him to return the visit ashore, and acquainting him that +the chief had prepared a large present on that occasion. But, being +anxious to get to sea, and join the Resolution, the Captain did not +think it advisable to accept of the invitation. + +The very short and imperfect intercourse which we had with the +natives, put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the +mode of government established amongst them; but, from the general +resemblance of customs, and particularly from what we observed of the +honours paid to their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe, that +it is of the same nature with that which prevails throughout all +the islands we had hitherto visited; and probably their wars amongst +themselves are equally frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred from +the number of weapons which we found them possessed of, and from, the +excellent order these were kept in. But we had direct proof of the +fact from their own confession; and, as we understood, these wars +are between the different districts of their own island, as well as +between it and their neighbours of Oneeheow and Orrehoua, we need +scarcely assign any other cause besides this to account for the +appearance already mentioned, of their population bearing no +proportion to the extent of their ground capable of cultivation. + +Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chesnut-coloured +wood, beautifully polished, some of which are barbed at one end, and +flattened to a point at the other, they have a sort of weapon which we +had never seen before, and not mentioned by any navigator, as used by +the natives of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general +about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or both ends, and +secured to the hand by a string. Its use is to stab in close fight; +and it seems well adapted to the purpose. Some of these may be called +double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are +better enabled to strike different ways. They have also bows and +arrows; but, both from their apparent scarcity and their slender make, +it may almost be presumed that they never use them in battle. The +knife or saw, formerly mentioned, with which they dissect the dead +bodies, may also be ranked amongst their weapons, as they both strike +and cut with it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden +instrument, of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at the +corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the _patoos_ of New +Zealand; but its edges are entirely surrounded with sharks' teeth, +strongly fixed to it, and pointing outward; having commonly a hole +in the handle, through which passes a long string, which is wrapped +several times round the wrist. We also suspected that they use slings +on some occasions; for we got some pieces of the _hæmatites_, +or blood-stone, artificially made of an oval shape, divided +longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. +To this the person, who had one of them, applied a cord of no great +thickness, but would not part with it, though he had no objection +to part with the stone, which must prove fatal, when thrown with any +force, as it weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of +whetstone, well polished, but somewhat pointed toward each end, nearly +resembling in shape some stones which we had seen at New Caledonia in +1774, and used there in their slings. + +What we could learn of their religions institutions, and the manner of +disposing of their dead, which may properly be considered as closely +connected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more strongly +points out the affinity between the manners of these people and of +the Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some other +circumstances to place this in a strong point of view, and at the same +time to shew how a few of the infinite modifications, of which a few +leading principles are capable, may distinguish any particular nation. +The people of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent manner, +and they also inter their human sacrifices; but they do not offer, or +expose any other animal, or even vegetable, to their gods, as far as +we know. Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to +waste by time and putrefaction, though the bones are afterward buried; +and as this is the case, it is very remarkable that they should inter +the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer other +animals and vegetables to their gods; but are by no means attentive to +the state of the sacred places where those solemn rites are performed; +most of their _morais_ being in a ruinous condition, and bearing +evident marks of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their +common dead and human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo; but they resemble +those of Otaheite in the slovenly state of their religious places, and +in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. + +The _taboo_ also prevails in Atooi in its full extent, and seemingly +with much more rigour than even at Tongataboo. For the people here +always asked, with great eagerness and signs of fear to offend, +whether any particular thing, which they desired to see, or we were +unwilling to shew, was _taboo_, or, as they pronounced the word, +_tafoo_? The _maia_, _ruä_, or forbidden articles at the Society +Islands, though doubtless the same thing, did not seem to be so +strictly observed by them, except with respect to the dead, about whom +we thought them more superstitious than any of the others were. But +these are circumstances with which we are not as yet sufficiently +acquainted to be decisive about; and I shall only just observe, to +shew the similitude in other matters connected with religion, that the +priests, or _tahounas_, here, are as numerous as at the other islands; +if we may judge, from our being able, during our short stay, to +distinguish several saying their _poore_ or prayer. + +But whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general manners of +the people of Atooi to those of Otaheite, these, of course, were less +striking than the coincidence of language, indeed, the languages of +both places may be said to be almost, word for word, the same. It is +true, that we sometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced +exactly as we had found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands; but, +though all the four dialects are indisputably the same, these people, +in general, have neither the strong guttural pronunciation of the +former, nor a less degree of it, which also distinguishes the latter; +and they have not only adopted the soft mode of the Otaheitans, in +avoiding harsh sounds, but the whole idiom of their language; using +not only the same affixes and suffixes to their words, but the same +measure and cadence in their songs; though, in a manner, somewhat less +agreeable. There seems, indeed, at first hearing, some disagreement to +the ear of a stranger; but it ought to be considered, that the people +of Otaheite, from their frequent connections with the English, +had learnt it, in some measure, to adapt themselves to our scanty +knowledge of their language, by using not only the most common, but +even corrupted expressions, in conversation with us; whereas, when +they conversed among themselves, and used the several parts necessary +to propriety of speech, they were scarcely at all understood by those +amongst us, who had made the greatest proficiency in their vocabulary. +A catalogue of words was collected at Atooi by Mr Anderson, who +lost no opportunity of making our voyage useful to those who amuse +themselves in tracing the migrations of the various tribes or families +that have peopled the globe, by the most convincing of all arguments, +that drawn from affinity of language. + +How shall we account for this nation's having spread itself, in so +many detached islands, so widely disjoined from each other, in every +quarter of the Pacific Ocean! We find it, from New Zealand, in the +south, as far as the Sandwich Islands to the north! And, in another +direction, from Easter Island to the Hebrides! that is, over an extent +of sixty degrees of latitude, or twelve hundred leagues, north and +south! and eighty-three degrees of longitude, or sixteen hundred and +sixty leagues east and west! How much farther, in either direction, +its colonies reach is not known; but what we know already, in +consequence of this and our former voyage, warrants us in pronouncing +it to be, though perhaps not the most numerous, certainly, by far, the +most extensive nation upon the earth.[4] + +[Footnote 4: See more about the great extent of the colonies of this +nation in the Introductory Preface.] + +Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at an early period by the +Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage +of so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi, or some other +of the islands, as a refreshing place to the ships that sail annually +from Acapulco for Manilla. They lie almost midway between the first +place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only +port in traversing this vast ocean; and it would not have been a +week's sail out of their common route to have touched at them; which +could have been done without running the least hazard of losing the +passage, as they are sufficiently within the verge of the easterly +trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been +equally favourable to our Buccaneers, who used sometimes to pass from +the coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of food and water +scarcely sufficient to preserve life. Here they might always have +found plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the very +part of California, which the Manilla ship is obliged to make, or else +have returned to the coast of America, thoroughly refitted, after an +absence of two months. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what +hardships would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a +group of islands half way between America and Tinian, where all his +wants could have been effectually supplied; and in describing which, +the elegant historian of that voyage would have presented his reader +with a more agreeable picture than I have been able to draw in this +chapter![5] + +[Footnote 5: We defer considering the curious subject of the identity +and origin of the people that inhabit the South Sea, till other +relations shall have put the reader in possession of the facts +requisite for the discussion. Of the Sandwich Islands, we shall +hereafter probably have mere complete information than is now +given.--E.] + + +SECTION XIII. + +_Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the Longitude, +Variation of the Compass and Tides.--Prosecution of the +Voyage.--Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as +the Latitude 44° North.--Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern +Hemisphere.--Small Sea Animals described.--Arrival on the Coast +of America.--Appearance of the Country.--Unfavourable Winds and +boisterous Weather.--Remarks on Martin de Aguilar's River, and Juan +de Fuca's pretended Strait.--An Inlet discovered, where the Ships +anchor.--Behaviour of the Natives._ + +After the Discovery had joined us, we stood away to the northward, +close hauled, with a gentle gale from the east; and nothing occurring, +in this situation, worthy of a place in my narrative, the reader +will permit me to insert here the nautical observations which I had +opportunities of making relative to the islands we had left; and which +we had been fortunate enough to add to the geography of this part of +the Pacific Ocean. + +The longitude of the Sandwich Islands was determined by seventy-two +sets of lunar observations; some of which were made while we were at +anchor in the road of Wymoa; others before we arrived, and after we +left it, and reduced to it by the watch or time-keeper. By the mean +result of these observations, the longitude of the road is + + 200° 13' 0" East. + Time-keeper / Greenwich rate, 200° 0' 0" + \ Ulietea rate, 200° 21' 0" + The latitude of the road, by the \ + mean of two meridian observations } 21° 56' 15" North. + of the sun / + +The observations for the variation of the compass did not agree very +well among themselves. It is true, they were not all made exactly +in the same spot. The different situations, however, could make very +little difference. But the whole will be seen, by casting an eye on +the following table. + + Time. Latitude. Longitude. Compass. East Mean + variation. Variation. + Jan. 18th. A.M. 21° 12' 200° 41' Gregory's 10° 10' 10"\ + Knight's 9° 20' 5" } 90° 51' 38" + Martin's 10° 4' 40"/ + + 19th. P.M. 21° 51' 200° 20' Knight's 10° 2' 10"\ 10° 37' 10" + Gregory's 11° 12' 30"/ + + 28th. A.M. 21° 22' 199° 56' Gregory's 9° 1' 20"\ + Knight's 9° 1' 25" } 9° 26' 57" + Martin's 10° 18' 5"/ + + 28th. P.M. 21° 36' 199° 50' Gregory's 11° 21' 15"\ + Knight's 10° 40' 0" } 11° 12' 50" + Martin's 11° 37' 50"/ + + Means of the} 21° 29' 200° 12' 10° 17' 11" + above } + + On January 18. 21° 12' 200° 41' the north end of + the needle dipped 42° 1' 7". + + +The tides at the Sandwich Islands are so inconsiderable, that, with +the great surf which broke against the shore, it was hardly possible +to tell, at any time, whether we had high or low water, or whether +it ebbed or flowed. On the south side of Atooi, we generally found a +current setting to the westward, or north-westward. But when we +were at anchor off Oneeheow, the current set nearly north-west and +south-east, six hours one way and six the other, and so strong as to +make the ships tend, though the wind blew fresh. This was certainly +a regular tide; and, as far as I could judge, the flood came from the +north-west. + +I now return to the progress of our voyage. On the 7th, being in the +latitude of 29° N. and in the longitude of 200° E. the wind veered to +S.E. This enabled us to steer N.E. and E.; which course we continued, +till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the S. and W. to +N.E. and E.N.E. I then tacked and stood to the northward, our latitude +being 30° N. and our longitude 206° 15' E. Notwithstanding our +advanced latitude, and its being the winter season, we had only begun, +for a few days past, to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and +evenings. This is a sign of the equal and lasting influence of +the sun's heat, at all seasons, to 30° on each side the line. The +disproportion is known to become very great after that. This must be +attributed almost entirely to the direction of the rays of the sun, +independent of the bare distance, which is by no means equal to the +effect. + +On the 19th, being now in the latitude of 37° N. and in the longitude +of 206° E. the wind veered to S.E.; and I was enabled again to +steer to the E. inclining to the N. We had, on the 25th, reached the +latitude of 42° 30', and the longitude of 219°; and then we began +to meet with the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson's +voyage, under the name of sea-leek, which the Manilla ships generally +fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood also appeared. But if we +had not known that the continent of North America was not far distant, +we might, from the few signs of the vicinity of land hitherto met +with, have concluded, that there was none within some thousand leagues +of us. We had hardly seen a bird, or any other oceanic animal, since +we left Sandwich Islands. + +On the 1st of March, our latitude being now 44° 49' N., and our +longitude 228° E. we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a wind +from the N. with which I stood to the E. close hauled, in order to +make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far +from us. It was remarkable, that we should still carry with us such +moderate and mild weather so far to the northward, and so near the +coast of an extensive continent, at this time of the year. The present +season either must be uncommon for its mildness, or we can assign no +reason why Sir Francis Drake should have met with such severe cold, +about this latitude, in the month of June. Viscaino, indeed, who was +near the same place in the depth of winter, says little of the cold, +and speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains somewhere on the coast, as a +thing rather remarkable.[1] Our seeing so few birds, in comparison of +what we met with in the same latitudes to the south of the Line, +is another singular circumstance, which must either proceed from a +scarcity of the different sorts, or from a deficiency of places +to rest upon. From hence, we may conclude, that, beyond 40° in the +southern hemisphere, the species are much more numerous, and the isles +where they inhabit also more plentifully scattered about, than any +where between the coast of California and Japan, in or near that +latitude. + +[Footnote 1: See Torquemada's Narrative of Viscaino's Expedition +in 1602 and 1603, in the second volume of Vanegas's History of +California, English translation, from p. 229 to p. 308.--D.] + +During a calm, on the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed +covered with a kind of slime, and some small sea-animals were swimming +about. The most conspicuous of which were of the gelatinous or +_medusa_ kind, almost globular; and another sort smaller, that had +a white or shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of these +last were taken up, and put into a glass cup with some salt water, in +which they appeared like small scales or bits of silver, when at rest, +in a prone situation. When they began to swim about, which they did, +with equal ease, upon their backs, sides, or belly, they emitted +the brightest colours of the most precious gems, according to their +position with respect to the light. Sometimes they appeared quite +pellucid, at other times assuming various tints of blue, from a pale +sapphirine to a deep violet colour; which were frequently mixed with +a ruby or opaline redness; and glowed with a strength sufficient to +illuminate the vessel and water. These colours appeared most vivid +when the glass was held to a strong light; and mostly vanished on the +subsiding of the animals to the bottom, when they had a brownish cast. +But, with candle light, the colour was, chiefly, a beautiful pale +green, tinged with a burnished gloss; and, in the dark, it had a +faint appearance of glowing fire. They proved to be a new species of +_oniscus_, and, from their properties, were, by Mr Anderson, (to whom +we owe this account of them), called _oniscus fulgens_; being probably +an animal which has a share in producing some sorts of that lucid +appearance, often observed near ships at sea in the night. On the same +day two large birds settled on the water, near the ship. One of these +was the _procellaria maxima_ (the _quebrantahuessos_), and the +other, which was little more than half the size, seemed to be of the +_albatross_ kind. The upper part of the wings, and tip of the tail, +were black, with the rest white; the bill yellowish; upon the whole +not unlike the sea-gull, though larger. + +On the 6th at noon, being in the latitude of 44° 10' N., and the +longitude of 234-1/2° E., we saw two seals and several whales; and at +day-break the next morning, the long-looked-for coast of New Albion[2] +was seen, extending from N.E. to S.E., distant ten or twelve leagues. +At noon our latitude was 44° 33' N., and our longitude 235° 20' E.; +and the land extended from N.E. 1/2 N. to S.E. by S. about eight +leagues distant. In this situation we had seventy-three fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom, and about a league farther off found ninety +fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate height, diversified +with hills and valleys, and almost every where covered with wood. +There was, however, no very striking object on any part of it, except +one hill, whose elevated summit was flat. This bore E. from us at +noon. At the northern extreme the land formed a point, which I called +_Cape Foulweather_, from the very bad weather that we soon after met +with. I judge it to lie in the latitude of 44° 55' N., and in the +longitude of 235° 54' E. + +[Footnote 2: This part of the west side of North America was so named +by Sir Francis Drake.--D.] + +We had variable light airs and calms till eight o'clock in the +evening, when a breeze sprung up at S.W. With it I stood to the N.W., +under an easy sail, waiting for day-light, to range along the coast. +But at four, next morning, the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in +squalls, with rain. Our course was N.E. till near ten o'clock, when, +finding that I could make no progress on this tack, and seeing +nothing like a harbour, I tacked, and stood off S.W. At this time Cape +Foulweather bore N.E. by N. about eight leagues distant. Toward noon +the wind veered more to the westward, and the weather became fair +and clear; so that we were enabled to make lunar observations. Having +reduced all those that we had made since the 19th of last month to +the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting in the whole to +seventy-two sets, their mean result determined the longitude to be +235° 15' 26" E., which was 14' 11" less than what the time-keeper +gave. This longitude is made use of for settling that of the coast; +and I have not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the +truth. + +Our difficulties now began to increase. In the evening the wind came +to the N.W., blowing in squalls, with hail and sleet; and the weather +being thick and hazy, I stood out to sea till near noon the next +day, when I tacked, and stood in again for the land, which made +its appearance at two in the afternoon, bearing E.N.E. The wind and +weather continued the same; but, in the evening, the former veered +more to the W. and the latter grew worse, which made it necessary +to tack and stand off till four the next morning, when I ventured to +stand in again. + +At four in the afternoon we saw the island, which, at six, extended +from N.E. 1/2 E. to S.E. by S. about eight leagues distant. In this +situation we tacked, and sounded; but a line of a hundred and sixty +fathoms did not reach the ground. I stood off till midnight, then +stood in again; and at half-past six we were within three leagues +of the land, which extended from N. by E. 1/2 E. to S. 1/2 E.; each +extreme about seven leagues distant. Seeing no signs of a harbour, and +the weather being still unsettled, I tacked, and stretched off S.W. +having then fifty-five fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. + +That part of the land which we were so near when we tacked, is of a +moderate height, though in some places it rises higher within. It was +diversified with a great many rising grounds and small hills; many +of which were entirely covered with tall, straight trees; and +others, which were lower, and grew in spots like coppices; but the +interspaces, and sides of many of the rising grounds, were clear. The +whole, though it might make an agreeable summer prospect, had now an +uncomfortable appearance; as the bare grounds towards the coast were +all covered with snow, which seemed to be of a considerable depth +between the little hills and rising grounds; and in several places, +toward the sea, might easily have been mistaken, at a distance, for +white cliffs. The snow on the rising grounds was thinner spread; and +farther inland, there was no appearance of any; from whence we might, +perhaps, conclude, that what we saw toward the sea, had fallen during +the night; which was colder than any we had experienced since our +arrival on the coast; and we had sometimes a kind of sleet. The coast +seemed every where almost straight, without any opening or inlet; and +it appeared to terminate in a kind of white sandy beach; though some +on board thought that appearance was owing to the snow. Each extreme +of the land that was now before us, seemed to shoot out into a point. +The northern one was the same which we had first seen on the 7th; and +on that account I called it _Cape Perpetua_. It lies in the latitude +of 44° 6' N., and in the longitude of 235° 57'E. The southern extreme +before us, I named _Cape Gregory_.[3] Its latitude is 43° 30', and its +longitude 235° 57' E. It is a remarkable point; the land of it rising +almost directly from the sea to a tolerable height, while that on each +side of it is low. + +[Footnote 3: In our calendar, the 7th of March is distinguished by the +name of Perpetua M, and the 12th by that of Gregory B.--D.] + +I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked, and +stood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But +in this I was mistaken; for at five o'clock it began to run to the +west and south-west, which, obliged me once more to stand out to sea. +At this time, Cape Perpetua bore N.E. by N.; and the farthest land we +could see to the south of Cape Gregory bore S. by E., perhaps ten or +twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this estimation, its latitude +will be 43° 10', and its longitude 235° 55' E., which is nearly the +situation of Cape Blanco, discovered or seen by Martin d'Aguilar, on +the 19th of January, 1603. It is worth observing, that in the very +latitude where we now were, geographers have been pleased to place a +large entrance or strait, the discovery of which they take upon them +to ascribe to the same navigator; whereas nothing more is mentioned in +the account of his voyage, than his having seen, in this situation, +a large river, which he would have entered, but was prevented by the +currents.[4] + +[Footnote 4: See the History of California, Eng. trans. vol. ii. p. +292.--D.] + +The wind, as I have observed, had veered to S.W. in the evening; but +it was very unsettled, and blew in squalls, with snow showers. In one +of these, at midnight, it shifted at once to W.N.W. and soon increased +to a very hard gale, with heavy squalls, attended with sleet or +snow. There was no choice now; and we were obliged to stretch to the +southward, in order to get clear of the coast. This was done under +courses and two close-reefed top-sails; being rather more sail than +the ships could safely bear; but it was necessary to carry it to avoid +the more pressing danger of being forced on shore. This gale continued +till eight o'clock in the morning of the 18th; when it abated, and +I stood in again for the land. We had been forced a considerable way +backward; for at the time of our tacking, we were in the latitude of +42° 45', and in the longitude of 233° 30'. + +The wind continued at W. and N.W.; storms, moderate weather, and +calms, succeeding each other by turns, till the morning of the 21st; +when, after a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at S.W. This bringing +with it fair weather, I steered north-easterly, in order to fall +in with the land, beyond that part of it where we had already so +unprofitable been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening, +the wind veered to the westward; and at eight o'clock the next +morning, we saw the land, extending from N.E. to E. nine leagues +distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 47° 5' N. and in the +longitude of 235° 10' E. + +I continued to stand to the north, with a fine breeze at W. and W.N.W. +till near seven o'clock in the evening, when I tacked to wait for +day-light. At this time we were in forty-eight fathoms water, and +about four leagues from the land, which extended from N. to S.E. +1/2 E. and a small round hill, which had the appearance of being an +island, bore N. 3/4 E., distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed; it +appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be seen from +the deck. Between this island or rock, and the northern extreme of the +land, there appeared to be a small opening, which flattered us with +the hopes of finding an harbour. These hopes lessened as we drew +nearer; and at last we had some reason to think that the opening was +closed by low land. On this account I called the point of land to the +north of it _Cape Flattery_. It lies in the latitude of 48° 15' N., +and in the longitude of 235° 3' E. There is a round hill of a moderate +height over it; and all the land upon this part of the coast is of a +moderate and pretty equal height, well covered with wood, and had +a very pleasant and fertile appearance. It is in this very latitude +where we now were, that geographers have placed the pretended strait +of Juan de Fuca. But we saw nothing like it; nor is there the least +probability that ever any such thing existed.[5] + +[Footnote 5: See Michael Locke's apocryphal account of Juan de Fuca +and his pretended strait, in Purchas, vol. iii. p. 849-852, and many +later Collections.--D.] + +I stood off to the southward till midnight, when I tacked, and steered +to the N.W. with a gentle breeze at S.W. intending to stand in for the +land as soon as day-light should appear. But, by that time, we were +reduced to two courses and close-reefed top-sails, having a very hard +gale, with rain, right on shore; so that, instead of running in for +the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which we +had already got. The south-west wind was, however, but of short +continuance; for in the evening it veered again to the west. Thus +had we perpetually strong west and north-west winds to encounter. +Sometimes, in an evening, the wind would become moderate, and veer to +the southward; but this was always a sure prelude to a storm, which +blew the hardest at S.S.E. and was attended with rain and sleet. It +seldom lasted above four or six hours, before it was succeeded by +another gale from the N.W. which, generally, brought with it fair +weather. It was, by the means of these southerly blasts, that we were +enabled to get to the north-west at all. + +At length, at nine o'clock in the morning of the 29th, as we were +standing to the N.E. we again saw the land, which, at noon, extended +from N.W. by W. to E.S.E. the nearest part about six leagues distant. +Our latitude was now 49° 29' N. and our longitude 232° 29' E. The +appearance of the country differed much from that of the parts which +we had before seen; being full of high mountains, whose summits were +covered with snow. But the valleys between them, and the grounds on +the sea coast, high as well as low, were covered to a considerable +breadth with high, straight trees, that formed a beautiful prospect +as of one vast forest. The south-east extreme of the land formed a low +point off which are many breakers, occasioned by sunken rocks. On this +account it was called _Point Breakers_. It lies in the latitude of 49° +15' N., and in the longitude of 233° 20' E., and the other extreme +in about the latitude of 50°, and the longitude of 232°. I named this +last _Woody Point_. It projects pretty much out to the S.W. and is +high land. Between these two points the shore forms a large bay, which +I called _Hope Bay_; hoping, from the appearance of the land, to find +in it a good harbour. The event proved that we were not mistaken. + +As we drew nearer the coast, we perceived the appearance of two +inlets; one in the N.W., and the other in the N.E. corner of the bay. +As I could not fetch the former, I bore up for the latter; and passed +some breakers, or sunken rocks, that lay a league or more from the +shore. We had nineteen and twenty fathoms water half a league without +them; but as soon as we had passed them, the depth increased to +thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom; and farther in +we found no ground with the greatest length of line. Notwithstanding +appearances, we were not yet sure that there were any inlets; but +as we were in a deep bay, I had resolved to anchor, with a view to +endeavour to get some water, of which, by this time, we were in great +want. At length, as we advanced, the existence of the inlet was no +longer doubtful. At five o'clock we reached the west point of it, +where we were becalmed for some time. While in this situation, I +ordered all the boats to be hoisted out to tow the ships in. But this +was hardly done, before a fresh breeze sprung up again at N.W. with +which we were enabled to stretch up into an arm of the inlet, that was +observed by us to run into the N.E. There we were again becalmed, and +obliged to anchor in eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the shore +as to reach it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before +she got within the arm, where she anchored, and found only seventy +fathoms. + +We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the coast to be +inhabited; and at the place where we were first becalmed, three canoes +came off to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, +and in the third ten. Having come pretty near us, a person in one of +the two last stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, +as we guessed, by his gestures. At the same time he kept strewing +handfuls of feathers towards us;[6] and some of his companions threw +handfuls of a red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who +played the orator, wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand +something which rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring himself +with his repeated exhortations, of which we did not understand a word, +he was quiet; and then others took it, by turns, to say something, +though they acted their part neither so long, nor with so much +vehemence, as the other. We observed, that two or three had their hair +quite strewed over with small white feathers; and others had large +ones stuck into different parts of the head. After the tumultuous +noise had ceased, they lay at a little distance from the ship, and +conversed with each other in a very easy manner; nor did they seem to +shew the least surprise or distrust. Some of them, now and then, got +up, and said something after the manner of their first harangues; and +one sung a very agreeable air, with a degree of softness and melody +which we could not have expected; the word _haela_ being often +repeated as the burden of the song. The breeze which soon after sprung +up, bringing us nearer to the shore, the canoes began to come off in +greater numbers; and we had at one time thirty-two of them near the +ship, carrying from three to seven or eight persons each, both men +and women. Several of these stood up in their canoes, haranguing and +making gestures, after the manner of our first visitors. One canoe was +remarkable for a singular head, which had a bird's eye and bill, of an +enormous size, painted on it; and a person, who was in it, who seemed +to be a chief, was no less remarkable for his uncommon appearance; +having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an +extraordinary manner.[7] He held in his hand a carved bird of wood, as +large as a pigeon, with which he rattled as the person first mentioned +had done; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which was +attended with some expressive gestures. + +[Footnote 6: The natives of this coast, twelve degrees farther +south, also brought feathers as presents to Sir Francis Drake on +his arrival.--See an account of his voyage in _Campbell's edit. of +Harris_, vol. i. p. 18--D. And in this collection, vol. x.--E.] + +[Footnote 7: Viscaino met with natives on the coast of California, +while he was in the harbour of San Diego, _who were painted or +besmeared with black and white, and had their heads loaded with +feathers_.--History of California, vol. ii. p. 272.--D.] + +Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not be suspected +of any hostile intention, we could not prevail upon any of them to +come on board. They shewed great readiness, however, to part with any +thing they had, and took from us whatever we offered them in exchange, +but were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles of +commerce; appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that +metal. Many of the canoes followed us to our anchoring-place; and +a group, of about ten or a dozen of them, remained alongside the +Resolution most part of the night. + +These circumstances gave us a reasonable ground of hope, that we +should find this a comfortable station to supply all our wants, and to +make us forget the hardships and delays experienced during a constant +succession of adverse winds and boisterous weather, almost ever since +our arrival upon the coast of America. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +TRANSACTIONS AMONGST THE NATIVES OF NORTH AMERICA; DISCOVERIES ALONG +THAT COAST AND THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, NORTHWARD TO ICY CAPE; +AND RETURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. + + +SECTION I. + +_The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.--Intercourse with +the Natives.--Articles brought to barter.--Thefts committed.--The +Observatories erected, and Carpenters set to work.--Jealousy of the +Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other Tribes having Intercourse +with the Ships.--Stormy and rainy Weather.--Progress round the +Sound.--Behaviour of the Natives at their Villages.--Their Manner of +drying fish, &c.--Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory +Ceremonies.--A second Visit to one of the Villages.--Leave to cut +Grass, purchased.--The Ships sail.--Presents given and received at +parting._ + +The ships having happily found so excellent shelter in an inlet, the +coasts of which appeared to be inhabited by a race of people, whose +inoffensive behaviour promised a friendly intercourse, the next +morning, after coming to anchor, I lost no time in endeavouring to +find a commodious harbour where we might station ourselves during our +continuance in the Sound. Accordingly, I sent three armed boats, under +the command of Mr King, upon this service; and soon after, I went +myself, in a small boat, on the same search. I had very little trouble +in finding what we wanted. On the N.W. of the arm we were now in, and +not far from the ships, I met with a convenient snug cove well suited +to our purpose. Mr King was equally successful; for he returned about +noon, with an account of a still better harbour, which he had seen +and examined, lying on the N.W. side of the land. But as it would have +required more time to carry the ships thither, than to the cove +where I had been, which was immediately within our reach, this reason +operated to determine my choice in favour of the latter situation. But +being apprehensive, that we should not be able to transport our ships +to it, and to moor them properly, before night came on, I thought +it best to remain where we were till next morning; and, that no time +might be lost, I employed the remainder of the day to some useful +purposes, ordering the sails to be unbent, the top-masts to be struck, +and the fore-mast of the Resolution to be unrigged, in order to fix a +new bib, one of the old ones being decayed. + +A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the ships all +day, and a trade commenced betwixt us and them, which was carried +on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The articles which they +offered to sale were skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, +foxes, deer, rackoons, pole-cats, martins, and, in particular, of the +sea-otters, which are found at the islands E. of Kamtschatka. Besides +the skins in their native shape, they also brought garments made of +them, and another sort of cloathing made of the bark of a tree, or +some plant like hemp; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears; +fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds; wooden-vizors of many +different monstrous figures; a sort of woollen stuff, or blanketing; +bags filled with red ochre; pieces of carved work, beads, and +several other little ornaments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a +horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses; and several chisels, or +pieces of iron, fixed to handles. From their possessing which metals, +we could infer that they had either been visited before by some +civilized nation, or had connections with tribes on their continent, +who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all the +articles which they brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls, +and hands not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made our +people plainly understand they had eaten; and, indeed, some of them +had evident marks that they had been upon the fire. We had but too +much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that the horrid +practice of feeding on their enemies is as prevalent here, as we had +found it to be at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. For the +various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, +chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or +any kind of metal. Glass-beads they were not fond of, and cloth of +every sort they rejected. + +We employed the next day in hauling our ships into the cove, where +they were moored head and stern, fastening our hawsers to the trees +on shore. On heaving up the anchor of the Resolution, we found, +notwithstanding the great depth of water in which it was let go, +that there were rocks at the bottom. These had done some considerable +damage to the cable; and the hawsers that were carried out to warp the +ship into the cove also got foul of rocks, from which it appeared +that the whole bottom was strewed with them. The ship being again very +leaky in her upper works, I ordered the carpenters to go to work to +caulk her, and to repair such other defects as, on examination, we +might discover. + +The fame of our arrival brought a great concourse of the natives to +our ships in the course of this day. We counted above a hundred canoes +at one time, which might be supposed to contain, at an average, five +persons each; for few of them had less than three on board; great +numbers had seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with no less +than seventeen. Amongst these visitors, many now favoured us with +their company for the first time, which we could guess, from their +approaching the ships with their orations and other ceremonies. If +they had any distrust or fear of us at first, they now appeared to +have laid it aside; for they came on board the ships, and mixed with +our people with the greatest freedom. We soon discovered, by this +nearer intercourse, that they were as light-fingered as any of our +friends in the islands we had visited in the course of the voyage. +And they were far more dangerous thieves; for, possessing sharp +iron-instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other +piece of iron from a rope, the instant that our backs were turned. A +large hook, weighing between twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller +ones, and other articles of iron, were lost in this manner. And, as +to our boats, they stripped them of every bit of iron that was worth +carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They +were dexterous enough in effecting their purposes; for one fellow +would contrive to amuse the boat-keeper, at one end of a boat, while +another was pulling out the iron-work at the other. If we missed a +thing immediately after it had been stolen, we found little difficulty +in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one +another. But the guilty person generally relinquished his prize with +reluctance, and sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to +force. + +The ships being securely moored, we began our other necessary business +the next day. The observatories were carried ashore, and placed upon +an elevated rock on one side of the cove, close to the Resolution. A +party of men, with an officer, was sent to cut wood, and to clear a +place for the conveniency of watering. Others were employed to brew +spruce-beer, as pine-trees abounded here. The forge was also set up, +to make the iron-work wanting for the repairs of the fore-mast. For, +besides one of the bibs being defective, the larboard trestle-tree and +one of the cross-trees were sprung. + +A considerable number of the natives visited us daily; and every now +and then we saw new faces. On their first coming, they generally went +through a singular mode of introducing themselves. They would paddle, +with all their strength, quite round both ships, a chief, or other +principal person in the canoe, standing up with a spear, or some other +weapon, in his hand, and speaking, or rather hollowing, all the time. +Sometimes the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a +mask, representing either a human visage, or that of some animal; +and, instead of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand, as before +described. After making this circuit round the ships, they would come +alongside, and begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, +indeed, they would first give us a song, in which all in the canoe +joined, with a very pleasing harmony. + +During these visits, they gave us no other trouble than to guard +against their thievish tricks. But, in the morning of the 4th, we +had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, who were employed in cutting +wood, and filling water, observed, that the natives all around them +were arming themselves in the best manner they could; those, who were +not possessed of proper weapons, preparing sticks, and collecting +stones. On hearing this, I thought it prudent to arm also; but, being +determined to act upon the defensive, I ordered all our workmen to +retreat to the rock, upon which we had placed our observatories, +leaving the natives in quiet possession of the ground where they had +assembled, which was within a stone's throw of the Resolution's stern. +Our fears were ill-grounded; these hostile preparations were not +directed against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who +were coming to fight them; and our friends of the Sound, on observing +our apprehensions, used their best endeavours to convince us that this +was the case. We could see that they had people looking out on each +point of the cove, and canoes frequently passed between them and the +main body assembled near the ships. At length, the adverse party, in +about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the S. point of the +cove, where they stopped, and lay drawn up in a line of battle, a +negotiation having commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the +treaty, passed between the two parties, and there was some speaking on +both sides. At length, the difference, whatever it was, seemed to be +compromised; but the strangers were not allowed to come alongside the +ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us. Probably we were +the cause of the quarrel; the strangers, perhaps, being desirous to +share in the advantages of a trade with us, and our first friends, the +inhabitants of the Sound, being determined to engross us entirely to +themselves. We had proofs of this on several other occasions, nay, it +appeared, that even those who lived in the Sound were not united in +the same cause; for the weaker were frequently obliged to give way to +the stronger party, and plundered of every thing, without attempting +to make the least resistance. + +We resumed our work in the afternoon, and the next day rigged the +fore-mast; the head of which being rather too small for the cap, the +carpenter went to work, to fix a piece on one side, to fill up the +vacant space. In cutting into the mast-head for this purpose, and +examining the state of it, both cheeks were found to be so rotten, +that there was no possibility of repairing them, and it became +necessary to get the mast out, and to fix new ones upon it. It was +evident, that one of the cheeks had been defective at the first, and +that the unsound part had been cut out, and a piece put in, which had +not only weakened the mast-head, but had, in a great measure, been +the occasion of rotting every other part of both cheeks. Thus, when we +were almost ready to put to sea, we had all our work to do over again; +and, what was still more provoking, an additional repair was to be +undertaken, which would require some time to be completed. But, as +there was no remedy, we immediately set about it. It was fortunate +for the voyage, that these defects were discovered, when we were in a +place, where the materials requisite were to be procured. For, amongst +the drift-wood, in the cove where the ships lay, were some small +seasoned trees very fit for our purpose. One of these was pitched +upon, and the carpenters began, without loss of time, to make out of +it two new cheeks. + +In the morning of the 7th, we got the fore-mast out, and hauled it +ashore, and the carpenters of the ships were set to work upon it. Some +parts of the lower standing rigging having been found to be very much +decayed, as we had time now to put them in order, while the carpenters +were repairing the fore-mast, I ordered a new set of main-rigging to +be fitted, and a more perfect set of fore-rigging to be selected out +of the best parts of the old. + +From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, the weather had +been exceedingly fine, without either wind or rain. That comfort, at +the very moment when the continuance of it would have been of most +service, was withdrawn. In the morning of the 8th, the wind freshened +at S.E., attended with thick hazy weather and rain. In the afternoon +the wind increased; and, toward the evening, it blew very hard indeed. +It came, in excessively heavy squalls, from over the high land on the +opposite shore, right into the cove, and, though the ships were +very well moored, put them in some danger. These tempestuous blasts +succeeded each other pretty quick, but they were of short duration, +and in the intervals between them we had a perfect calm. According to +the old proverb, Misfortunes seldom come single; the mizen was now +the only mast on board the Resolution that remained rigged, with its +top-mast up. The former was so defective, that it could not support +the latter during the violence of the squalls, but gave way at the +head under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale abated; but the +rain continued with very little intermission for several days; and, +that the carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their labours, +while it prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore-mast, where they +could work with some degree of convenience. + +The bad weather which now came on, did not, however, hinder the +natives from visiting us daily; and, in such circumstances, their +visits were very advantageous to us. For they frequently brought us a +tolerable supply of fish, when we could not catch any ourselves with +hook and line; and there was not a proper place near us where we could +draw a net. The fish which they brought us were either sardines, or +what resembled them much; a small kind of bream; and sometimes small +cod. + +On the 11th, notwithstanding the rainy weather, the main-rigging was +fixed and got over head; and our employment, the day after, was to +take down the mizen-mast, the head of which proved to be so rotten, +that it dropped off while in the slings. In the evening we were +visited by a tribe of natives whom we had never seen before, and who, +in general, were better-looking people than most of our old friends, +some of whom attended them. I prevailed upon these visitors to go down +into the cabin for the first time, and observed, that there was not a +single object that fixed the attention of most of them for a moment; +their countenances marking, that they looked upon all our novelties +with the utmost indifference. This, however, was not without +exception; for a few of the company shewed a certain degree of +curiosity. + +In the afternoon of the next day, I went into the woods with a +party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizen-mast. On the day +following, it was brought to the place where the carpenters were +employed upon the fore-mast. In the evening the wind, which had been, +for some time, westerly, veered to S.E., and increased to a very hard +gale, with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, +when it abated, and veered again to the W. + +The fore-mast being by this time finished, we hauled it alongside; but +the bad weather prevented our getting it in till the afternoon; and +we set about rigging it with the greatest expedition, while the +carpenters were going on with the mizen-mast on shore. They had made +very considerable progress in it on the 16th, when they discovered +that the stick upon which they were at work was sprung, or wounded, +owing, as supposed, to some accident in cutting it down. So that all +their labour was thrown away, and it became necessary to get another +tree out of the woods, which employed all hands above half a day. +During these various operations, several of the natives, who were +about the ships, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, which +we did not expect; from their general indifference and inattention. + +On the 18th, a party of strangers, in six or eight canoes, came into +the cove, where they remained, looking at us, for some time, and then +retired, without coming alongside either ship. We supposed, that our +old friends, who were more numerous at this time about us, than these +new visitors, would not permit them to have any intercourse with +us. It was evident, upon this and several other occasions, that the +inhabitants of the adjoining parts of the Sound engrossed us entirely +to themselves; or if, at any time, they did not hinder strangers from +trading with us, they contrived to manage the trade for them in such a +manner, that the price of their commodities was always kept up; while +the value of ours was lessening every day. We also found, that many of +the principal natives, who lived near us, carried on a trade with +more distant tribes, in the articles they had procured from us. For we +observed that they would frequently disappear for four or five days at +a time, and then return with fresh cargoes of skins and curiosities, +which our people were so passionately fond of, that they always +came to a good market. But we received most benefit from such of +the natives as visited us daily. These, after disposing of all their +little trifles, turned their attention to fishing; and we never +failed to partake of what they caught. We also got from these people a +considerable quantity of very good animal oil, which they had reserved +in bladders. In this traffic some would attempt to cheat us, by mixing +water with the oil; and, once or twice, they had the address to carry +their imposition so far, as to fill their bladders with mere water, +without a single drop of oil. It was always better to bear with +these tricks, than to make them the foundation of a quarrel; for our +articles of traffic consisted, for the most part, of mere trifles; and +yet we were put to our shifts to find a constant supply even of these. +Beads, and such other toys, of which I had still some left, were in +little estimation. Nothing would go down with our visitors but metal; +and brass had, by this time, supplanted iron, being so eagerly sought +after, that before we left this place, hardly a bit of it was left in +the ships, except what belonged to our necessary instruments. Whole +suits of clothes were stripped of every button; bureaus of their +furniture; and copper-kettles, tin-cannisters, candle-sticks, and +the like, all went to wreck; so that our American friends here got a +greater medley and variety of things from us, than any other nation +whom we had visited in the course of the voyage. + +After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, we +availed ourselves of it, to get up the top-masts and yards, and to fix +up the rigging. And, having now finished most of our heavy work, I set +out the next morning to take a view of the Sound. I first went to the +W. point, where I found a large village, and, before it, a very snug +harbour, in which was from nine to four fathoms water, over a bottom +of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to +most of whom I was well known, received me very courteously; every one +pressing me to go into his house, or rather his apartment; for several +families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations, +and my hospitable friends, whom I visited, spread a mat for me to sit +down upon, and shewed me every other mark of civility. In most of the +houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before +mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New +Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening +sardines. I had seen a large quantity of them brought on shore from +canoes, and divided by measure amongst several people, who carried +them up to their houses, where the operation of curing them by +smoke-drying is performed. They hang them on small rods, at first, +about a foot from the fire; afterward they remove them higher and +higher, to make room for others, till the rods, on which the fish +hang, reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried, they +are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with +mats. Thus they are kept till wanted; and they are not a disagreeable +article of food. Cod, and other large fish, are also cured in the +same manner by them; though they sometimes dry these in the open air, +without fire. + +From this village I proceeded up the west side of the Sound. For about +three miles, I found the shore covered with small islands, which are +so situated as to form several convenient harbours, having various +depths of water, from thirty to seven fathoms, with a good bottom. Two +leagues within the Sound, on this west side, there runs in an arm in +the direction of N.N.W.; and two miles farther, is another nearly in +the same direction, with a pretty large island before it. I had no +time to examine either of these arms; but have reason to believe, that +they do not extend far inland, as the water was no more than brackish +at their entrances. A mile above the second arm, I found the remains +of a village. The logs or framings of the houses were standing; but +the boards that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. +Before this village were some large fishing wears; but I saw nobody +attending them. These wears were composed of pieces of wicker-work +made of small rods, some closer than others, according to the size of +the fish intended to be caught in them. These pieces of wicker-work +(some of whose _superficies_ are, at least, twenty feet by twelve), +are fixed up edgewise in shallow water, by strong poles or pickets, +that stand firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain +of a few acres extent, covered with the largest pine-trees that I ever +saw. This was more remarkable, as the elevated ground, on most other +parts of this west side of the Sound, was rather naked. + +From this place, I crossed over to the other, or east side of the +Sound, passing an arm of it that runs in N.N.E., to appearance not +far. I now found, what I had before conjectured, that the land, under +which the ships lay, was an island; and that there were many smaller +ones lying scattered in the Sound on the west side of it. Opposite +the north end of our large island, upon the main land, I observed a +village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not so polite +as those of the other I had just visited. But this cold reception +seemed, in a great measure, if not entirely, owing to one surly chief, +who would not let me enter their houses, following me wherever I went; +and several times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience that +I should be gone. I attempted in vain to sooth him by presents, but +though he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some +of the young women, better pleased with us than was their inhospitable +chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and, +assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village, by joining in a +song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. + +The day being now far spent, I proceeded for the ships, round the +north end of the large island; meeting, in my way, with several canoes +laden with sardines, which had been just caught, somewhere in the east +corner of the Sound. When I got on board, I was informed, that, while +I was absent, the ships had been visited by some strangers, in two +or three large canoes, who, by signs, made our people understand that +they had come from the S.E., beyond the bay. They brought several +skins, garments, and other articles, which they bartered. But what +was most singular, two silver table-spoons were purchased from +them, which, from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish +manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his neck, by +way of ornament. These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully +supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. + +The mizen-mast being finished, it was got in, and rigged, on the 21st; +and the carpenters were set to work to make a new fore-top-mast, to +replace the one that had been carried away some time before. + +Next morning, about eight o'clock, we were visited by a number of +strangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They came into the cove from +the southward, and as soon as they had turned the point of it, they +stopped, and lay drawn up in a body above half an hour, about two or +three hundred yards from the ships. At first, we thought, that they +were afraid to come nearer; but we were mistaken in this, and they +were only preparing an introductory ceremony. On advancing toward the +ships, they all stood up in their canoes, and began to sing. Some +of their songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and +others in quicker time; and they accompanied their notes with the +most regular motions of their hands; or beating in concert, with their +paddles, on the sides of the canoes, and making other very expressive +gestures. At the end of each song, they remained silent a few +seconds, and then began again, sometimes pronouncing the word _hooee!_ +forcibly, as a chorus. After entertaining us with this specimen of +their music, which we listened to with admiration, for above half an +hour, they came alongside the ships, and bartered what they had to +dispose of. Some of our old friends of the Sound were now found to +be amongst them, and they took the whole management of the traffic +between us and the strangers, much to the advantage of the latter. + +Our attendance on these visitors being finished, Captain Clerke and +I went, in the forenoon, with two boats, to the village at the west +point of the Sound. When I was there before, I had observed, that +plenty of grass grew near it; and it was necessary to lay in a +quantity of this, as food for the few goats and sheep which were +still left on board. The inhabitants received us with the same +demonstrations of friendship which I had experienced before; and the +moment we landed, I ordered some of my people to begin their operation +of cutting. I had not the least imagination, that the natives could +make any objection to our furnishing ourselves with what seemed to be +of no use to them, but was necessary for us. However, I was mistaken; +for, the moment that our men began to cut, some of the inhabitants +interposed, and would not permit them to proceed, saying they must +"_makook_," that is, must first buy it. I was now in one of the +houses; but as soon as I heard of this, I went to the field, where I +found about a dozen of the natives, each of whom laid claim to some +part of the grass that grew in this place. I bargained with them for +it, and having completed the purchase, thought that we were now at +liberty to cut wherever we pleased. But here, again, it appeared, that +I was under a mistake; for the liberal manner in which I had paid +the first pretended proprietors, brought fresh demands upon me from +others; so that there did not seem to be a single blade of grass, that +had not a separate owner, and so many of them were to be satisfied, +that I very soon emptied my pockets. When they found that I really +had nothing more to give, their importunities ceased, and we were +permitted to cut where-ever we pleased, and as much as we chose to +carry away. + +Here I must observe, that I have no where, in my several voyages, met +with any uncivilized nation, or tribe, who had such strict notions +of their having a right to the exclusive property of every thing that +their country produces, as the inhabitants of this Sound. At first, +they wanted our people to pay for the wood and water that they carried +on board; and had I been upon the spot, when these demands were +made, I should certainly have complied with them. Our workmen, in my +absence, thought differently, for they took but little notice of such +claims; and the natives, when they found that we were determined +to pay nothing, at last ceased to apply. But they made a merit of +necessity, and frequently afterward took occasion to remind us, that +they had given us wood and water out of friendship.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Similar to the behaviour of the natives of Nootka, on +this occasion, was that of another tribe of Indians, farther north, in +latitude 57° 18', to the Spaniards, who had preceded Captain Cook only +three years, in a voyage to explore the coast of America, northward of +California. See the journal of that voyage, writ by the second pilot +of the fleet, and published by the Honourable Mr Daines Barrington, to +whom the literary world owes so many obligations.--_Miscellanies_, p. +505, 506.--D.] + +During the time I was at this village, Mr Webber, who had attended me +thither, made drawings of every thing that was curious, both within +and without doors. I had also an opportunity of inspecting more +narrowly, the construction of the houses, household furniture, and +utensils, and the striking peculiarities of the customs and modes of +living of the inhabitants. These shall be described in another place, +in the best manner I can, calling in to my assistance the observations +of Mr Anderson. When we had completed all our operations at this +village, the natives and we parted very good friends, and we got back +to the ships in the afternoon. + +The three following days were employed in getting ready to put to +sea; the sails were bent, the observatories and instruments, brewing +vessels, and other things, were moved from the shore; some small +spars, for different uses, and pieces of timber, which might be +occasionally sawn into boards, were prepared and put on board; and +both ships were cleared, and put into a sailing condition. + +Every thing being now ready, in the morning of the 26th, I intended to +have put to sea; but both wind and tide being against us, was obliged +to wait till noon, when the S.W. wind was succeeded by a calm, and +the tide turning in our favour, we cast off the moorings, and with +our boats towed the ships out of the cove. After this, we had variable +light airs and calms, till four in the afternoon, when a breeze +sprung up northerly, with very thick, hazy weather. The mercury in the +barometer fell unusually low, and we had every other fore-runner of +an approaching storm, which we had reason to expect would be from +the southward. This made me hesitate a little, as night was at hand, +whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But +my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of +losing this opportunity of getting out of the Sound, making a greater +impression on my mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger, I +determined to put to sea at all events. + +Our friends, the natives, attended us, till we were almost out of the +Sound; some on board the ships, and others in their canoes. One of +their chiefs, who had, some time before, attached himself to me, was +amongst the last who left us. Having, before he went, bestowed upon +him a small present, I received in return a beaver-skin, of much +greater value. This called upon me to make some addition to my +present, which pleased him so much, that he insisted upon my +acceptance of the beaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which +I knew he was particularly fond. Struck with this instance of +generosity, and desirous that he should be no sufferer by his +friendship to me, I presented to him a new broad sword, with a brass +hilt, the possession of which made him completely happy. He, and also +many others of his countrymen, importuned us much to pay them another +visit; and, by way of encouragement, promised to lay in a good stock +of skins. I made no doubt, that whoever comes after me to this place, +will find the natives prepared accordingly, with no inconsiderable +supply of an article of trade, which, they could observe, we were +eager to possess; and which we found could be purchased to great +advantage.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Captain King, as we shall afterwards find, proposes a +plan for the establishment of a fur-trade with this coast of America. +To this he was incited by the experience of the value of these +articles in the Chinese market. In fact, a settlement for the purpose +of carrying on this trade was commenced in 1786, by an association of +British merchants resident in India. It was soon afterwards seized +on by the Spaniards who pretended a prior right. But they, as we have +already mentioned, vol. xv. p. 157, abandoned all claim to this Sound +in 1790; and in 1795, it was formally taken possession of, in name of +his Britannic Majesty.--E.] + +Such particulars about the country, and its inhabitants, as came to +our knowledge during our short stay, and have not been mentioned +in the course of the narrative, will furnish materials for the two +following sections. + + +SECTION II. + +_The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into it.--Account +of the adjacent Country.--Weather.--Climate.--Trees.--Other Vegetable +Productions.--Quadrupeds, whose Skins were brought for +Sale.--Sea Animals.--Description of a Sea Otter.--Birds.--Water +Fowl.--Fish.--Shell-fish, &c.--Reptiles.--Insects.--Stones, +&c.--Persons of the Inhabitants.--Their Colour.--Common Dress and +Ornaments.--Occasional Dresses, and monstrous Decorations of +wooden Masks.--Their general Dispositions.--Songs.--Musical +Instruments.--Their Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals._ + +On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the name of King +George's Sound; but I afterward found, that it is called Nootka by the +natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in +the latitude of 49° 33' N., and in the longitude of 233° 12' E. +The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breaker's Point to the +entrance of the Sound, is covered by a chain of sunken rocks, that +seemed to extend some distance from the shore; and, near the Sound, +are some islands and rocks above water. + +We enter this Sound between two rocky points, that lie E.S.E., and +W.N.W. from each other, distant between three and four miles. Within +these points the Sound widens considerably, and extends in, to the +northward, four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches +toward its bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity +to ascertain. But, from the circumstance of finding that the water +freshened where our boats crossed their entrance, it is probable that +they had almost reached its utmost limits. And this probability is +increased by the hills that bounded it toward the land, being covered +with thick snow, when those toward the sea, or where we lay, had not a +speck remaining on them, though, in general, they were much higher. In +the middle of the Sound are a number of islands of various sizes. The +depth of water in the middle of the Sound, and even close home to some +parts of its shore, is from forty-seven to ninety fathoms, and perhaps +more. The harbours, and anchoring-places within its circuit, are +numerous; but we had no time to survey them. The cove in which our +ships lay is on the east side of the Sound, and on the east side of +the largest of the islands. It is covered from the sea, but has little +else to recommend it, being exposed to the S.E. winds, which we found +to blow with great violence; and the devastation they make sometimes +was apparent in many places. + +The land bordering upon the sea-coast is of a middling height and +level; but within the Sound, it rises almost every-where into steep +hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or +blunted tops, with some sharp, though not very prominent, ridges on +their sides. Some of these hills may be reckoned high, while others of +them are of a very moderate height; but even the highest are entirely +covered to their tops with the thickest woods; as well as every flat +part toward the sea. There are sometimes spots upon the sides of some +of the hills which are bare; but they are few, in comparison of +the whole, though they sufficiently point out the general rocky +disposition of these hills. Properly speaking, they have no soil upon +them, except a kind of compost, produced from rotten mosses and trees, +of the depth of two feet or more. Their foundations are, therefore, to +be considered as nothing more than stupendous rocks, of a whitish +or grey cast, where they have been exposed to the weather; but, +when broken, they appeared to be of a blueish grey colour, like that +universal sort which were found at Kerguelen's Land. The rocky shores +are a continued mass of this; and the little coves, in the Sound, have +beaches composed of fragments of it, with a few other pebbles. All +these coves are furnished with a great quantity of fallen wood lying +in them, which is carried in by the tide; and with rills of fresh +water, sufficient for the use of a ship, which seem to be supplied +entirely from the rains, and fogs that hover about the tops of the +hills. For few springs can be expected in so rocky a country, and the +fresh water found farther up the Sound, most probably arose from the +melting of the snow; there being no room to suspect, that any large +river falls into the Sound, either from strangers coming down it, or +from any other circumstance. The water of these rills is perfectly +clear, and dissolves soap easily. + +The weather, during our stay, corresponded pretty nearly with that +which we had experienced off the coast. That is, when the wind was any +where between N. and W., the weather was fine and clear; but if to +the southward of W., hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we had any +experience of it, is infinitely milder than that on the east coast +of America, under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the +thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 42°, and +very often, in the day, it rose to 60°. No such thing as frost was +perceived in any of the low ground; on the contrary, vegetation had +made a considerable progress, for I met with grass that was already +above a foot long. + +The trees which chiefly compose the woods, are the Canadian pine, +white cypress, _cypressus thyoides_, the wild pine, with two or +three other sorts of pine less common. The two first make up almost +two-thirds of the whole; and, at a distance, might be mistaken for the +same tree, as they both run up into pointed spire-like tops, but +they are easily distinguished on coming nearer from their colour, the +cypress being of a much paler green, or shade, than the other. The +trees, in general, grow with great vigour, and are all of a large +size. + +There is but little variety of other vegetable productions, though, +doubtless, several had not yet sprung up at the early season when we +visited the place, and many more might be hid from the narrow sphere +of our researches. About the rocks, and verge of the woods, we found +strawberry-plants, some raspberry, currant, and gooseberry bushes, +which were all in a most flourishing state, with a few small +black alder-trees. There are, likewise, a species of sow-thistle, +goose-grass, some crow's-foot, which has a very fine crimson flower, +and two sorts of _anthericum_, one with a large orange flower, and the +other with a blue one. We also found, in these situations, some wild +rose-bushes, which were just budding, a great quantity of young +leeks, with, triangular leaves, a small sort of grass, and some +water-cresses, which grow about the sides of the rills, besides great +abundance of _andromeda_. Within the woods, besides two sorts of +underwood shrubs unknown to us, are mosses and ferns. Of the first +of which, are seven or eight different sorts, of the last, not above +three or four, and the species of both, are mostly such as are common +to Europe and America. + +As the season of the year was unfavourable to our gaining much +knowledge of the vegetable productions of this country, so our own +situation while there, put it out of our power to learn much about +its animals. For as the want of water made it necessary that we +should enter the Sound at first, unforeseen accidents which happened +afterward, though they lengthened our stay, were rather unfavourable +to our obtaining any knowledge of this kind. The emergency of the +case required, that every person should be constantly employed in the +necessary business of the ships, which was the capital object, as the +season was advancing very fast, and the success of the voyage depended +upon their diligence and alacrity in expediting the various tasks +assigned to them. Hence it happened, that excursions of every kind, +either on the land, or by water, were never attempted. And as we lay +in a cove on an island, no other animals were ever seen alive in +the woods there, than two or three racoons, martins, and squirrels. +Besides these, some of our people who, one day, landed on the +continent, near the S.E. side of the entrance of the sound, observed +the prints of a bear's feet near the shore. The account, therefore, +that we can give of the quadrupeds, is taken from the skins which +the natives brought to sell; and these were often so mutilated with +respect to the distinguishing parts, such as the paws, tails, and +heads, that it was impossible even to guess at the animals to whom +they belonged, though others were so perfect, or at least so well +known, that they left no room to doubt about them. + +Of these the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The +bear-skins were in great numbers, few of them very large, but, in +general, of a shining black colour. The deer-skins were scarcer, +and they seem to belong to that sort called the fallow-deer by the +historians of Carolina, though Mr Pennant thinks it quite a different +species from, ours, and distinguishes it by the name of Virginian +deer.[1] The foxes are in great plenty, and of several varieties, +some of their skins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the tail, +others of a deep or reddish yellow, intermixed with black, and a third +sort of a whitish grey or ash-colour, also intermixed with black. Our +people used to apply the name of fox or wolf indiscriminately, when +the skins were so mutilated as to leave room for a doubt. But we got, +at last, an entire wolf's skin with the head on, and it was grey. +Besides the common sort of martin, the pine-martin is also here, and +another, whose skin is of a lighter brown colour than either, with +coarser hair, but is not so common, and is, perhaps, only a mere +variety arising from age, or some other accidental circumstance. The +ermine is also found at this place, but is rare and small, nor is +the hair remarkably fine, though the animal appeared to be perfectly +white, except an inch or more at the tip of the tail. The racoons and +squirrels are of the common sort; but the latter is rather smaller +than ours, and has a deeper rusty colour running along the back. + +[Footnote 1: See Virginian deer. Pennant's Hist. Quad. vol. i. No. 46, +and Arctic Zool. No.6.] + +We were clear as to the existence of all the animals already +mentioned, but there are two others besides, which we could not +distinguish with sufficient certainty. Of the first of these we saw +none of the skins, but what were dressed or tanned like leather. The +natives wear them on some occasions; and from the size as well as +the thickness, they were generally concluded to belong to the elk, or +mouse-deer, though some of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. +The other animal, which seems by no means rare, was guessed to be a +species of the wild cat or lynx. The length of the skins, without the +head, which none of them had, was about two feet two inches. They are +covered with a very fine wool or fur, of a very light-brown or whitish +yellow colour, intermixed with long hairs, which on the back, where +they are shortest, are blackish; on the sides, where they are longer, +of a silver white; and on the belly, where they are longest, of the +colour of the wool, but the whitish, or silver hairs, are often so +predominant, that the whole animal acquires a cast of that kind. The +tail is only three inches long, and has a black tip. The whole skin +being, by the natives, called _wanshee_, that, most probably, is their +name for this animal. Hogs, dogs, and goats, have not as yet found +their way to this place. Nor do the natives seem to have any knowledge +of our brown rats, to which, when they saw them on board the ships, +they applied the name they give to squirrels. And though they called +our goats _eineetla_, this, most probably, is their name for a young +deer or fawn. + +The sea-animals seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, and seals. +The last of these seem only of the common sort, judging from the +skins which we saw here, their colour being either silvery, yellowish, +plain, or spotted with black. The porpoise is the _phocena_. I have +chosen to refer to this class the sea-otter, as living mostly in the +water. It might have been sufficient to have mentioned, that this +animal abounds here, as it is fully described in different books, +taken from the accounts of the Russian adventurers in their +expeditions eastward from Kamtschatka, if there had not been a small +difference in one that we saw. We, for some time, entertained doubts, +whether the many skins which the natives brought, really belonged to +this animal, as our only reason for being of that opinion, was founded +on the size, colour, and fineness of the fur, till a short while +before our departure, when a whole one, that had been just killed, +was purchased from some strangers who came to barter; and of this Mr +Webber made a drawing. It was rather young, weighing only twenty-five +pounds, of a shining or glossy black colour, but many of the hairs +being tipt with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. +The face, throat, and breast were of a yellowish white, or very +light-brown colour, which, in many of the skins, extended the whole +length of the belly. It had six cutting teeth in each jaw, two of +those of the lower jaw being very minute, and placed without, at +the base of the two middle ones. In these circumstances, it seems to +disagree with those found by the Russians, and also in not having the +outer toes of the hind feet skirted with a membrane. There seemed also +a greater variety in the colour of the skins, than is mentioned by +the describers of the Russian sea-otters. These changes of colour +certainly take place at different gradations of life. The very +young ones had brown hair, which was coarse, with very little fur +underneath; but those of the size of the entire animal, which came +into our possession, and just described, had a considerable quantity +of that substance, and both in that colour and state the sea-otters +seem to remain, till they have attained their full growth. After that, +they lose the black colour, and assume a deep brown or sooty colour, +but have then a greater quantity of very fine fur, and scarcely any +long hairs. Others, which we suspected to be still older, were of +a chesnut-brown; and a few skins were seen that had even acquired a +perfectly yellow colour. The fur of these animals, as mentioned in +the Russian accounts, is certainly softer and finer than that of any +others we know of; and, therefore, the discovey of this part of the +continent of North America, where so valuable an article of commerce +may be met with, cannot be a matter of indifference.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Mr Coxe, on the authority of Mr Pallas, informs us, that +the old and middle-aged sea-otters' skins are sold at Kiachta, by the +Russians to the Chinese, from 80 to 180 rubles a skin, that is, from +16l. to 20l. each.--See _Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, p. 13.--D.] + +Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different species, +but very scarce as to numbers; and these few are so shy, that, in all +probability, they are continually harassed by the natives, perhaps to +eat them as food, certainly to get possession of their feathers, which +they use as ornaments. Those which frequent the woods, are crows and +ravens, not at all different from our English ones, a blueish jay or +magpie, common wrens, which are the only singing bird that we heard, +the Canadian or migrating thrush, and a considerable number of +brown eagles, with white heads and tails, which, though they seem +principally to frequent the coast, come into the Sound in bad weather, +and sometimes perch upon the trees. Amongst some other birds, of +which the natives either brought fragments, or dried skins, we could +distinguish a small species of hawk, a heron, and the _alcyon_, or +large-crested American king-fisher. There are also some, which, I +believe, are not mentioned, or at least vary, very considerably, from +the accounts given of them by any writers who have treated professedly +on this part of natural history. The two first of these are _species_ +of wood-peckers. One less than a thrush, of a black colour above, +with white spots on the wings, a crimson head, neck, and breast, and a +yellowish olive-coloured belly, from which last circumstance it might, +perhaps, not improperly be called the yellow-bellied wood-pecker. +The other is a larger, and much more elegant bird, of a dusky brown +colour, on the upper part, richly waved with black, except about the +head, the belly of a reddish cast, with round black spots, a black +spot on the breast, and the under-side of the wings and tail of a +plain scarlet colour, though blackish above, with a crimson streak +running from the angle of the mouth, a little down the neck on each +side. The third and fourth, are a small bird of the finch kind, about +the size of a linnet, of a dark dusky colour, whitish below, with a +black head and neck, and white bill; and a sand-piper, of the size of +a small pigeon, of a dusky brown colour, and white below, except the +throat and breast, with a broad white band across the wings. There are +also humming-birds, which yet seem to differ from the numerous sorts +of this delicate animal already known, unless they be a mere variety +of the _trochilus colubris_ of Linnæus. These, perhaps, inhabit more +to the southward, and spread northward as the season advances; because +we saw none at first, though, near the time of our departure, the +natives brought them to the ships in great numbers. + +The birds which frequent the waters and the shores, are not more +numerous than the others. The quebrantahuessos, gulls, and shags, were +seen off the coast, and the two last also frequent the Sound. They are +of the common sorts, the shags being our cormorant or water-crow. We +saw two sorts of wild-ducks; one black, with a white head, which were +in considerable flocks, the other white, with a red bill, but of a +larger size; and the greater _lumme_, or diver, found in our northern +countries. There were also seen, once or twice, some swans flying +across the Sound to the northward, but we knew nothing of their +haunts. On the shores, besides the sand-piper, described above, we +found another, about the size of a lark, which bears a great affinity +to the burre, and a plover differing very little from our common +sea-lark. + +Fish are more plentiful in quantity than birds, though the variety is +not very great; and yet, from several circumstances, it is probable, +that even the variety is considerably increased at certain seasons. +The principal sorts, which we found in great numbers, are the common +herring, but scarcely exceeding seven inches in length; a smaller +sort, which is the same with the anchovy, or sardine, though rather +larger; a white, or silver-coloured bream, and another of a gold-brown +colour, with many narrow longitudinal blue stripes. The herrings and +sardines, doubtless, come in large shoals, and only at stated seasons, +as is common with that sort of fish. The bream of both sorts, may +be reckoned the next to these in quantity; and the full-grown ones +weighed, at least, a pound. The other fish, which are all scarce, +are a small brown kind of _sculpin_, such as is found on the coast +of Norway, another of a brownish red cast, frost-fish, a large one, +somewhat resembling the bull-head, with a tough skin, destitute of +scales; and now and then, toward the time of our leaving the Sound, +the natives brought a small brownish cod, spotted with white, and a +red fish of the same size, which some of our people said they had seen +in the strait of Magalhaens, besides another differing little from +the hake. There are also considerable numbers of those fish called the +_chimæræ_, or little sea-wolves, by some, which is akin to, and about +the size of, the _pezegallo_, or elephant-fish. Sharks, likewise, +sometimes frequent the Sound, for the natives have some of their teeth +in their possession; and we saw some pieces of ray, or scate, which +seemed to have been pretty large. The other marine animals that ought +to be mentioned here, are a small cruciated _medusa_, or blubber, +star-fish, which differ somewhat from the common ones, two small sorts +of crabs, and two others which the natives brought, one of them of +a thick, tough, gelatinous consistence, and the other a sort of +membranaceous tube or pipe, both which are probably taken from +the rocks. And we, also, purchased from them once a very large +cuttle-fish. + +There is abundance of large muscles about the rocks, many sea-ears, +and we often saw shells of pretty large plain _chamæ_. The smaller +sorts are some _trochi_ of two species, a curious _murex_, rugged +wilks, and a snail, all which are, probably, peculiar to this place, +at least I do not recollect to have seen them in any country near the +same latitude in either hemisphere. There are, besides these, some +small plain cockles, limpets; and some strangers, who come into the +Sound, wore necklaces of a small blueish _volute_ or _panamæ_. Many of +the muscles are a span in length, and some having pretty large pearls, +which, however, are both badly shaped and coloured. We may conclude, +that there is red coral in the Sound, or somewhere upon the coast, +some thick pieces, or branches, having been seen in the canoes of the +natives. + +The only animals of the reptile kind observed here, and found in the +woods, were brown snakes two feet long, with whitish stripes on the +back and sides, which are harmless, as we often saw the natives carry +them alive in their hands; and brownish water-lizards, with a tail +exactly like that of an eel, which frequented the small standing pools +about the rocks. + +The insect tribe seem to be more numerous. For though the season, +which is peculiarly fitted to their appearing abroad, was only +beginning, we saw four or five different sorts of butterflies, none +of which were uncommon, a good many humble-bees, some of our common +gooseberry moths, two or three sorts of flies, a few beetles, and some +musquitoes, which, probably, may be more numerous and troublesome in +a country so full of wood, during the summer, though at this time they +did little mischief. + +As to the mineral substances in this country, though we found both +iron and copper here, there is little reason to believe that either of +them belong to the place. Neither were the ores of any metal seen, +if we except a coarse, red, earthy, or ochry substance, used by the +natives in painting themselves, which probably may contain a little +iron, with a white and a black pigment used for the same purpose. But +we did not procure specimens of them, and therefore cannot positively +determine what are their component parts. + +Besides the stone or rock that constitutes the mountains and shores, +which sometimes contains pieces of very coarse _quartz_, we found +amongst the natives, things made of a hard black _granite_, though not +remarkably compact or fine grained, a greyish whetstone, the common +oil-stone of our carpenters, in coarser and finer pieces, and some +black bits which are little inferior to the hone-stone. The natives +also use the transparent leafy _glimmer_, or Muscovy glass, a brown +leafy or martial sort, and they sometimes brought to us pieces of +rock-crystal, tolerably transparent. The two first are, probably, +found near the spot, as they seemed to be in considerable quantities; +but the latter seems to be brought from a greater distance, or is very +scarce; for our visitors always parted with it reluctantly. Some of +the pieces were octangular, and had the appearance of being formed +into that shape by art. + +The persons of the natives are, in general, under the common stature; +but not slender in proportion, being commonly pretty full or plump, +though not muscular. Neither doth the soft fleshiness seem ever to +swell into corpulence; and many of the older people are rather spare +or lean. The visage of most of them is round and full, and sometimes +also broad, with high prominent cheeks; and, above these, the face is +frequently much depressed, or seems fallen in quite across between +the temples; the nose also flattening at its base, with pretty wide +nostrils, and a rounded point. The forehead rather low, the eyes +small, black, and rather languishing than sparkling; the mouth round, +with large round thickish lips, the teeth tolerably equal and well +set, but not remarkably white. They have either no beards at all, +which was most commonly the case, or a small thin one upon the point +of the chin, which does not arise from any natural defect of hair on +that part, but from plucking it out more or less; for some of them, +particularly the old men, have not only considerable beards all over +the chin, but whiskers or mustachios, both on the upper lip, and +running from thence toward the lower jaw obliquely downward.[3] Their +eye-brows are also scanty, and always narrow; but the hair of the head +is in great abundance, very coarse and strong, and, without a single +exception, black, straight, and dank, or hanging down over the +shoulders. The neck is short, the arms and body have no particular +mark of beauty or elegance in their formation, but are rather clumsy; +and the limbs in all are very small in proportion to the other parts, +and crooked or ill-made, with large feet badly shaped, and projecting +ancles. Their last defect seems in a great measure to arise from +their sitting so much on their hams or knees, both in their canoes and +houses. + +[Footnote 3: One of the most curious singularities observable in the +natural history of the human species, is the supposed defect in +the habit and temperature of the bodies of the American Indians, +exemplified in their having no beards, while they are furnished with +a profusion of hair on their heads. M. de Paw, the ingenious author +of Recherches sur les Americains, Dr Robertson, in his History of +America, and, in general, the writers for whose authority we ought to +have the highest deference, adopt this as an indisputable matter +of fact. May we not be permitted to request those who espouse their +sentiments, to reconsider the question, when we can produce Captain +Cook's evidence on the opposite side, at least so far as relates to +the American tribe, whom he had intercourse with at Nootka? Nor is +Captain Cook singular in his report. What he saw on the sea coast, +Captain Carver also met with amongst the American Indians far up in +the country. His words are as follow:--"From minute enquiries, and a +curious inspection, I am able to declare (however respectable I may +hold the authority of these historians in other points), that their +assertions are erroneous, and proceeding from a want of a thorough +knowledge of the customs of the Indians. After the age of puberty, +their bodies, in their natural state, are covered in the same manner +as those of the Europeans. The men, indeed, esteem a beard very +unbecoming, and take great pains to get rid of it, nor is there any +ever to be perceived on their faces, except when they grow old, and +become inattentive to appearances.--The Naudowesses, and the remote +nations, pluck them out with bent pieces of hard wood, formed into a +kind of nippers, whilst those who have communication with Europeans, +procure from them wire, which they twist into a screw or worm; +applying this to the part, they press the rings together, and with +a sudden twitch, draw out all the hairs that are inclosed in +them."--_Carver's Travels_, p. 224, 225. The remark made by Mr +Marsden, who also quotes Carver, is worth attending to, that the visor +or mask of Montezuma's armour, preserved at Brussels, has remarkably +large whiskers; and that those Americans could not have imitated +this ornament, unless nature had presented them with the model. +From Captain Cook's observation on the west coast of North America, +combined with Carver's in the inland parts of that continent, and +confirmed by the Mexican vizor as above, there seems abundant reason +to agree with Mr Marsden, who thus modestly expresses himself: "Were +it not for the numerous and very respectable authorities, from which +we are assured that the natives of America are naturally beardless, I +should think that the common opinion on that subject had been hastily +adopted; and that their appearing thus at a mature age, was only the +consequence of an early practice, similar to that observed among the +Sumatrans. Even now, I must confess, that it would remove some small +degree of doubt from my mind, could it be ascertained that no such +custom prevails."--_Marsden's History of Sumatra_, p. 39, 40.--D.] + +Their colour we could never positively determine, as their bodies were +incrusted with paint and dirt; though, in particular cases, when these +were well rubbed off, the whiteness of the skin appeared almost to +equal that of Europeans; though rather of that pale effete cast which +distinguishes those of our southern nations. Their children, whose +skins had never been stained with paint, also equalled ours in +whiteness. During their youth, some of them have no disagreeable look, +if compared to the generality of the people, but this seems to be +entirely owing to the particular animation attending that period +of life; for, after attaining a certain age, there is hardly any +distinction. Upon the whole, a very remarkable sameness seems to +characterize the countenances of the whole nation; a dull phlegmatic +want of expression, with very little variation, being strongly marked +in all of them. + +The women are nearly of the same size, colour, and form with the +men, from whom it is not easy to distinguish them, as they possess no +natural delicacies sufficient to render their persons agreeable; and +hardly any one was seen, even amongst those who were in the prime of +life, who had the least pretensions to be called handsome. + +Their common dress is a flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented on +the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and, at the lower edge, by +fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied over the +right shoulder, by a string before and one behind, near its middle, by +which means both arms are left free, and it hangs evenly, covering the +left side, but leaving the right open, except from the loose part of +the edges falling upon it, unless when the mantle is fastened by a +girdle (of coarse matting or woollen) round the waist, which is often +done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small cloak +of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape +this resembles a round dish-cover, being quite close, except in the +middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head, and +then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows, +and the body as far as the waist. Their head is covered with a cap, +of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of fine +matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or pointed +knob, or bunch of leather tassels, and there is a string that passes +under the chin, to prevent its blowing off. + +Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the men +frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, +or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and tie it as a cloak near the +upper part, wearing it sometimes before and sometimes behind. In rainy +weather, they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have +also woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The hair is +commonly worn hanging down loose; but some, when they have no cap, tie +it in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their dress, upon the whole, +is convenient, and would, by no means be inelegant, were it kept +clean. But as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint, +of a clayey or coarse ochry substance, mixed with oil, their garments, +by this means, contract a rancid offensive smell, and a greasy +nastiness; so that they make a very wretched dirty appearance, and +what is still worse, their heads and their garments swarm with vermin, +which, so depraved is their taste for cleanliness, we used to see them +pick off with great composure and eat. + +Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, their faces are +often stained with a black, a brighter red, or a white colour, by +way of ornament. The last of these gives them a ghastly, disgusting +aspect. They also strew the brown martial _mica_ upon the paint, which +makes it glitter. The ears of many of them are perforated in the lobe, +where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on the +outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of bone, quills fixed upon a +leathern thong, small shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of +thin copper, which our beads could never supplant. The _septum_ of the +nose, in many, is also perforated, through which they draw a piece of +soft cord; and others wear, at the same place, small thin pieces of +iron, brass, or copper, shaped almost like a horse-shoe, the narrow +opening of which receives the _septum_, so as that the two points may +gently pinch it, and the ornament thus hangs over the upper lip. +The rings of our brass buttons, which they eagerly purchased, were +appropriated to this use. About their wrists they wore bracelets +or bunches of white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly substance, +bunches of thongs, with tassels, or a broad black shining horny +substance, of one piece. And about their ancles they also frequently +wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the sinews of animals twisted +to a considerable thickness. + +Thus far of their ordinary dress and ornaments; but they have some +that seem to be used only on extraordinary occasions, either when they +exhibit themselves as strangers, in visits of ceremony, or when they +go to war. Amongst the first may be considered the skins of animals, +such as wolves or bears, tied on in the usual manner, but ornamented +at the edges with broad borders of fur, or of the woollen stuff +manufactured by them, ingeniously wrought with various figures. These +are worn either separately, or over their own common garments. On +such occasions, the most common head-dress is a quantity of withe, or +half-beaten bark, wrapped about the head, which, at the same time, has +various large feathers, particularly those of eagles, stuck in it, +or is entirely covered, or we may say, powdered with small white +feathers. The face, at the same time, is variously painted, having its +upper and lower parts of different colours, the strokes appearing like +fresh gashes, or it is besmeared with a kind of tallow, mixed with +paint, which is afterward formed into a great variety of regular +figures, and appears like carved work. Sometimes, again, the hair is +separated into small parcels, which are tied at intervals of about two +inches, to the end, with thread, and others tie it together behind, +after our manner, and stick branches of the _cypressus thyoides_ in +it. Thus dressed, they have a truly savage and incongruous appearance, +but this is much heightened when they assume, what may be called, +their monstrous decorations. These consist of an endless variety of +carved wood masks or vizors, applied on the face, or to the upper part +of the head or forehead. Some of these resemble human faces, furnished +with hair, beards, and eye-brows; others, the heads of birds, +particularly of eagles and quebrantahuessos, and many, the heads of +land and sea-animals, such as wolves, deer, and porpoises, and others. +But, in general, these representations much exceed the natural size, +and they are painted, and often strewed with pieces of the foliaceous +_mica_, which makes them glitter, and, serves to augment their +enormous deformity. They even exceed this sometimes, and fix on the +same part of the head large pieces of carved work, resembling the +prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner, and projecting to a +considerable distance. So fond are they of these disguises, that I +have seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle he had got +from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether they use these +extravagant masquerade ornaments on any particular religious occasion, +or diversion, or whether they be put on to intimidate their enemies +when they go to battle, by their monstrous appearance, or as decoys +when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. But it may be concluded, +that, if travellers or voyagers, in an ignorant and credulous age, +when many unnatural or marvellous things were supposed to exist, had +seen a number of people decorated in this manner, without being able +to approach so near as to be undeceived, they would readily have +believed, and, in their relations, would have attempted to make others +believe, that there existed a race of beings, partaking of the nature +of man and beast, more especially, when, besides the heads of animals +on the human shoulders, they might have seen the whole bodies of their +men-monsters covered with quadrupeds' skins.[4] + +[Footnote 4: The reflection in the text may furnish the admirers of +Herodotus, in particular, with an excellent apology for some of his +wonderful tales of this sort.--D.] + +The only dress amongst the people of Nootka, observed by us, that +seems peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern mantle doubled, +which, from its size, appears to be the skin of an elk or buffalo, +tanned. This they fasten on, in the common manner, and it is so +contrived, that it may reach up, and cover the breast quite to +the throat, falling, at the same time, almost to the heels. It is, +sometimes, ingeniously painted in different compartments; and is not +only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by +signs, even spears cannot pierce it, so that it may be considered as +their coat of mail, or most complete defensive armour. Upon the same +occasion, they sometimes wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered +with rows of dried hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by +leathern thongs, covered with quills, which, when they move, make a +round rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small bells. It +seems doubtful, however, whether this part of their garb be intended +to strike terror in war, or is only to be considered as belonging to +their eccentric ornaments on ceremonious occasions. For we saw one of +their musical entertainments, conducted by a man dressed in this sort +of cloak, with his mask on, and shaking his rattle. + +Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of horror, when +equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet, when divested of them, +and beheld in their common habit and actions, they have not the +least appearance of ferocity in their countenances; and seem, on +the contrary, as observed already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic, and +inactive disposition, destitute, in some measure, of that degree of +animation and vivacity that would render them agreeable as social +beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from being loquacious; +but their gravity is, perhaps, rather a consequence of the disposition +just mentioned, than of any conviction of its propriety, or the +effect of any particular mode of education. For, even in the greatest +paroxysms of their rage, they seem unable to express it sufficiently; +either with warmth of language, or significancy of gestures. + +Their orations, which are made either when engaged in any altercation +or dispute, or to explain their sentiments publicly on other +occasions, seem little more than short sentences, or rather single +words, forcibly repeated, and constantly in one tone and degree of +strength, accompanied only with a single gesture, which they use at +every sentence, jerking their whole body a little forward, by bending +the knees, their arms hanging down by their sides at the same time. + +Though there is but too much reason, from their bringing to sale human +skulls and bones, to infer that they treat their enemies with a degree +of brutal cruelty, this circumstance rather marks a general agreement +of character with that of almost every tribe of uncivilized man, in +every age, and in every part of the globe, than that they are to be +reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. We had no reason to +judge unfavourably of their disposition in this respect. They seem to +be a docile, courteous, good-natured people; but, notwithstanding the +predominant phlegm of their tempers, quick in resenting what they look +upon as an injury, and, like most other passionate people, as soon +forgetting it. I never found that these fits of passion went farther +than the parties immediately concerned, the spectators not troubling +themselves about the quarrel, whether it was with any of us, or +amongst their own body, and preserving as much indifference as if they +had not known any thing about it. I have often seen one of them rave +and scold, without any of his countrymen paying the least attention +to his agitation; and when none of us could trace the cause, or the +object of his displeasure. In such cases they never discover the least +symptom of timidity, but seem determined, at all events, to punish the +insult. For, even with respect to us, they never appeared to be under +the least apprehension of our superiority; but when any difference +happened, were just as ready to avenge the wrong, as amongst +themselves. + +Their other passions, especially their curiosity, appear in some +measure to lie dormant. For few expressed any desire to see or examine +things wholly unknown to them; and which, to those truly possessed +of that passion, would have appeared astonishing. They were always +contented to procure the articles they knew and wanted, regarding +every thing else with great indifference; nor did our persons, +apparel, and manners, so differ from their own, or even the +extraordinary size and construction of our ships, seem to excite +admiration, or even engage attention. + +One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems considerable. +But, on the other hand, they are certainly not wholly unsusceptible +of the tender passions; if we may judge from their being so fond of +music, which is mostly of the grave or serious, but truly pathetic +sort. They keep the exactest concert in their songs, which are often +sung by great numbers together, as those already mentioned, with which +they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are generally slow +and solemn; but the music is not of that confined sort found +amongst many rude nations, for the variations are very numerous and +expressive, and the cadence or melody powerfully soothing. Besides +their full concerts, sonnets of the same grave cast were frequently +sung by single performers, who keep time by striking the hand +against the thigh. However, the music was sometimes varied, from its +predominant solemnity of air; and there were instances of stanzas +being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and even with a degree of +humour. + +The only instruments of music (if such they may be called) which I saw +amongst them, were a rattle, and a small whistle, about an inch long, +incapable of any variation, from having but one hole. They use the +rattle when they sing; but upon what occasions they use the whistle +I know not, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular +animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I once saw one +of them dressed in a wolf's skin, with the head over his own, and +imitating that animal by making a squeaking noise with one of these +whistles, which he had in his mouth. The rattles are, for the most +part, made in the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly; +and the tail is the handle. They have others, however, that bear +rather more resemblance to a child's rattle. + +In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a knavish +disposition, and carry off our goods without making any return. But, +in general, it was otherwise; and we had abundant reason to commend +the fairness of their conduct. However, their eagerness to possess +iron and brass, and, indeed, any kind of metal, was so great, that +few of them could resist the temptation to steal it, whenever an +opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, as +appears from a variety of instances in the course of this voyage, +rather than be idle, would steal any thing that they could lay their +hands upon, without ever considering, whether it could be of use to +them or no. The novelty of the object, with them, was a sufficient +motive for their endeavouring, by any indirect means, to get +possession of it; which marked that, in such cases, they were rather +actuated by a childish curiosity, than by a dishonest disposition, +regardless of the modes of supplying real wants. The inhabitants of +Nootka, who invaded our property, cannot have such apology made for +them. They were thieves in the strictest sense of the word; for they +pilfered nothing from us, but what they knew could be converted to the +purposes of private utility, and had a real value according to their +estimation of things. And it was lucky for us, that nothing was +thought valuable by them, but the single articles of our metals. +Linen, and such like things, were perfectly secure from their +depredations, and we could safely leave them hanging out ashore all +night, without watching. The same principle which prompted our Nootka +friends to pilfer from us, it was natural to suppose, would produce +a similar conduct in their intercourse with each other. And, +accordingly, we had abundant reason to believe, that stealing is +much practised amongst them, and that it chiefly gives rise to their +quarrels, of which we saw more than one instance. + + +SECTION III. + +_Manner of Building the Homes in Nootka Sound.--Inside of them +described.--Furniture and Utensils.--Wooden Images.--Employments +of the Men.--Of the Women.--Food, Animal and Vegetable.--Manner of +preparing it.--Weapons.--Manufactures and Mechanic Arts.--Carving +and Painting.--Canoes.--Implements for Fishing and Hunting.--Iron +Tools.--Manner of procuring that Metal.--Remarks on their Language, +and a Specimen of it.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in +Nootka Sound._ + +The two towns or villages, mentioned in the course of my journal, seem +to be the only inhabited part of the Sound. The number of inhabitants +in both might be pretty exactly computed from the canoes that were +about the ships the second day after our arrival. They amounted to +about a hundred; which, at a very moderate allowance, must, upon an +average, have held five persons each. But as there were scarcely any +women, very old men, children, or youths amongst them at that time, +I think it will rather be rating the number of the inhabitants of the +two towns too low, if we suppose they could be less than four times +the number of our visitors, that is, two thousand in the whole. + +The village at the entrance of the Sound stands on the side of a +rising ground, which has a pretty steep ascent from the beach to the +verge of the wood, in which space it is situated. + +The houses are disposed in three ranges or rows, rising gradually +behind each other, the largest being that in front, and the others +less, besides a few straggling, or single ones, at each end. These +ranges are interrupted or disjoined at irregular distances, by +narrow paths, or lanes, that pass upward; but those which run in the +direction of the houses, between the rows, are much broader. Though +there be some appearance of regularity in this disposition, there +is none in the single houses, for each of the divisions, made by the +paths, may be considered either as one house, or as many, there +being no regular or complete separation, either without or within, to +distinguish them by. They are built of very long and broad planks[1], +resting upon the edges of each other, fastened or tied by withes +of pine bark here and there, and have only slender posts, or rather +poles, at considerable distances on the outside, to which they also +are tied, but within are some larger poles placed aslant. The height +of the sides and ends of these habitations, is seven or eight feet; +but the back part is a little higher, by which means, the planks that +compose the roof slant forward, and are laid on loose, so as to be +moved about, either to be put close to exclude the rain, or, in fair +weather, to be separated, to let in the light and carry out the +smoke. They are, however, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and +constructed with little care or ingenuity. For, though the side-planks +be made to fit pretty closely in some places, in others they are +quite open, and there are no regular doors into them, the only way +of entrance being either by a hole, where the unequal length of the +planks has accidentally left an opening, or, in some cases, the planks +are made to pass a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two +feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes, +or windows, in the sides of the houses to look out at; but without any +regularity of shape or disposition; and these have bits of mat hung +before them, to prevent the rain getting in. + +[Footnote 1: The habitations of the natives, more to the north upon +this coast, where Behring's people landed in 1741, seem to resemble +those of Nootka. Muller describes them thus: "Ces cabanes étoient de +bois revetu de planches bien unies, et même enchainées en quelques +endroits."--Muller, _Découvertes_, p. 255.--D.] + +On the inside, one may frequently see from one end to the other of +these ranges of building without interruption. For though, in general, +there be the rudiments, or rather vestiges, of separations on each +side, for the accommodation of different families, they are such as do +not intercept the sight; and often consist of no more than pieces of +plank, running from the side toward the middle of the house; so that, +if they were complete, the whole might be compared to a long stable, +with a double range of stalls, and a broad passage in the middle. +Close to the sides, in each of these parts, is a little bench of +boards, raised five or six inches higher than the rest of the floor, +and covered with mats on which the family sit and sleep. These benches +are commonly seven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In +the middle of the floor, between them, is the fire-place, which has +neither hearth nor chimney. In one house, which was in the end of a +middle range, almost quite separated from the rest by a high close +partition, and the most regular, as to design, of any that I saw, +there were four of these benches, each of which held a single family, +at a corner, but without any separation by boards, and the middle part +of the house appeared common to them all. + +Their furniture consists chiefly of a great number of chests and boxes +of all sizes, which are generally piled upon each other, close to the +sides or ends of the house, and contain their spare garments, skins, +masks, and other things which they set a value upon. Some of these are +double, or one covers the other as a lid, others have a lid fastened +with thongs, and some of the very large ones have a square hole, or +scuttle, cut in the upper part, by which the things are put in and +taken out. They are often painted black, studded with the teeth of +different animals, or carved with a kind of freeze-work, and figures +of birds or animals, as decorations. Their other domestic utensils +are mostly square and oblong pails or buckets to hold water and other +things, round wooden cups and bowls, and small shallow wooden troughs, +about two feet long, out of which they eat their food, and baskets of +twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their fishing implements, and other things +also, lie or hang up in different parts of the house, but without the +least order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion; +and the only places that do not partake of this confusion are the +sleeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats, which are +also cleaner, or of a finer sort, than those they commonly have to sit +on in their boats. + +The nastiness and stench of their houses are, however, at least equal +to the confusion. For as they dry their fish within doors, they also +gut them there, which, with their bones and fragments, thrown down at +meals, and the addition of other sorts of filth, lie every where +in heaps, and are, I believe, never carried away till it becomes +troublesome, from their size, to walk over them. In a word, their +houses are as filthy as hog-sties; every thing in and about them +stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. + +But, amidst all the filth and confusion that are found in the houses, +many of them are decorated with images. These are nothing more than +the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly, +or by pairs, at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved +into a human face; the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and +variously painted; so that the whole is a truly monstrous figure. +The general name of these images is _Klumma_; and the names of two +particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four +feet asunder, in one of the houses, were _Natchkoa_ and _Matseeta_. Mr +Webber's view of the inside of a Nootka house, in which these +images are represented, conveys a more perfect idea of them than any +description. A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part, hung before +them, which the natives were not willing, at all times, to remove; +and when they did unveil them, they seemed to speak of them in a very +mysterious manner. It should seem, that they are at times accustomed +to make offerings to them; if we can draw this inference from their +desiring us, as we interpreted their signs, to give something to these +images, when they drew aside the mats that covered them.[2] It was +natural, from these circumstances, for us to think, that they were +representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or +superstitious object: and yet we had proofs of the little real +estimation they were in; for, with a small quantity of iron or brass, +I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the +place. I did not see one that was not offered to me; and I actually +got two or three of the very smallest sort. + +[Footnote 2: It should seem, that Mr Webber was obliged to repeat his +offerings pretty frequently before he could be permitted to finish his +drawing of these images. The following account is in his own words: +"After having made a general view of their habitations, I sought for +an inside, which might furnish me with sufficient matter to convey +a perfect idea of the mode in which these people live. Such was soon +found. While I was employed, a man approached me with a large knife +in his hand, seemingly displeased, when he observed that my eyes were +fixed on two representations of human figures, which were placed at +one end of the apartment, carved on planks, of a gigantic proportion, +and painted after their custom. However, I took as little notice of +him as possible, and proceeded; to prevent which, he soon provided +himself with a mat, and placed it in such a manner as to hinder my +having any longer a sight of them. Being pretty certain that I could +have no future opportunity to finish my drawing, and the object being +too interesting to be omitted, I considered that a little bribery +might probably have some effect. Accordingly, I made an offer of a +button from my coat, which, being of metal, I thought they would be +pleased with. This, instantly, produced the desired effect. For the +mat was removed, and I was left at liberty to proceed as before. +Scarcely had I seated myself, and made a beginning, when he returned, +and renewed his former practice, continuing it till I had parted with +every single button; and when he saw that he had completely stripped +me, I met with no farther obstruction."--D.] + +The chief employment of the men seems to be that of fishing, and +killing land or sea animals for the sustenance of their families; for +we saw few of them doing any thing in the houses; whereas the women +were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and +in preparing the sardines for drying; which they also carry up from +the beach in twig-baskets, after the men have brought them in their +canoes. The women are also sent in the small canoes to gather muscles, +and other shell-fish, and perhaps on some other occasions; for they +manage these with as much dexterity as the men; who, when in the +canoes with them, seem to pay little attention to their sex, by +offering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle; nor indeed +do they treat them with any particular respect or tenderness in other +situations. The young men appeared to be the most indolent or idle set +in this community; for they were either sitting about, in scattered +companies, to bask themselves in the sun, or lay wallowing in the sand +upon the beach, like a number of hogs, for the same purpose, without +any covering. But this disregard of decency was confined to the men. +The women were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost +propriety; justly deserving all commendation for a bashfulness and +modesty becoming their sex; but more meritorious in them, as the men +seem to have no sense of shame. It is impossible, however, that we +should have been able to observe the exact mode of their domestic +life and employments, from a single visit (as the first was quite +transitory) of a few hours. For it may be easily supposed, that, on +such an occasion, most of the labour of all the inhabitants of the +village would cease upon our arrival, and an interruption be given +even to the usual manner of appearing in their houses, during their +more remiss or sociable hours, when left to themselves. We were much +better enabled to form some judgment of their disposition, and, in +some measure, even of their method of living, from the frequent visits +so many of them paid us at our ships in their canoes; in which, it +would seem, they spend a great deal of time, at least in the summer +season. For we observed, that they not only eat and sleep frequently +in them, but strip off their clothes and lay themselves along to +bask in the sun, in the same manner as we had seen practised at their +village. Their canoes of the larger sort are, indeed, sufficiently +spacious for that purpose, and perfectly dry; so that, under shelter +of a skin, they are, except in rainy weather, much more comfortable +habitations than their houses. + +Though their food, strictly speaking, may be said to consist of every +thing animal or vegetable that they can procure, the quantity of the +latter bears an exceeding small proportion to that of the former. +Their greatest reliance seems to be upon the sea, as affording fish, +muscles, and smaller shell-fish, and sea-animals. Of the first, +the principal are herrings and sardines; the two species of bream, +formerly mentioned, and small cod. But the herrings and sardines are +not only eaten fresh, in their season, but likewise serve as stores, +which, after being dried and smoked, are preserved, by being sewed +up in mats, so as to form large bales, three or four feet square. It +seems that the herrings also supply them with another grand resource +for food; which is a vast quantity of roe, very curiously prepared. It +is strewed upon, or as it were incrustated about small branches of +the Canadian pine. They also prepare it upon a long narrow sea-grass, +which grows plentifully upon the rocks, under water. This _caviare_, +if it may be so called, is kept in baskets or bags of mat, and used +occasionally, being first dipped in water. It may be considered as the +winter bread of these people, and has no disagreeable taste. They also +eat the roe of some other fish, which, from the size of its grains, +must be very large; but it has a rancid taste and smell. It does not +appear that they prepare any other fish in this manner, to preserve +them for any length of time. For though they split and dry a few of +the bream and _chimæræ_, which are pretty plentiful, they do not smoke +them as the herrings and sardines. + +The next article, on which they seem to depend for a large proportion +of their food, is the large muscle; great abundance of which are found +in the Sound. These are roasted in their shells, then stuck upon +long wooden-skewers, and taken off occasionally as wanted; being eat +without any other preparation, though they often dip them in oil as a +sauce. The other marine productions, such as the smaller shell-fish, +though they contribute to increase the general stock, are by no means +to be looked upon as a standing or material article of their food, +when compared to those just mentioned. + +Of the sea-animals, the most common that we saw in use amongst them as +food is the porpoise; the fat or rind of which, as well as the flesh, +they cut in large pieces, and having dried them, as they do the +herrings, eat them without any farther preparation. They also prepare +a sort of broth from this animal, in its fresh state, in a singular +manner, putting pieces of it in a square wooden vessel or bucket, with +water, and then throwing heated stones into it. This operation +they repeat till they think the contents are sufficiently stewed or +seethed. They put in the fresh, and take out the other stones, with +a cleft stick, which serves as tongs; the vessel being always placed +near the fire for that purpose. This is a pretty common dish amongst +them, and, from its appearance, seems to be strong, nourishing food. +The oil which they procure from these and other sea-animals, is also +used by them in great quantities; both supping it alone, with a large +scoop or spoon made of horn, or mixing it with other food, as sauce. + +It may also be presumed, that they feed upon other sea-animals, such +as seals, sea-otters, and whales; not only from the skins of the +two first being frequent amongst them, but from the great number of +implements of all sorts intended to destroy these different animals; +which clearly points out their dependence upon them; though perhaps +they do not catch them in great plenty, at all seasons; which seemed +to be the case while we lay there, as no great number of fresh skins, +or pieces of the flesh, were seen. + +The same might, perhaps, be said of the land-animals, which, though +doubtless the natives sometimes kill them, appeared to be scarce at +this time; as we did not see a single piece of the flesh belonging +to any of them; and though their skins be in tolerable plenty, it is +probable that many of these are procured by traffic from other tribes. +Upon the whole, it seems plain, from a variety of circumstances, that +these people procure almost all their animal food from the sea, if we +except a few birds, of which the gulls or sea-fowl, which they shoot +with their arrows, are the most material. + +As the Canadian pine-branches and sea-grass, on which the fish roe is +strewed, may be considered as their only winter vegetables; so, as +the spring advances, they make use of several others as they come in +season. The most common of these, which we observed, were two sorts of +liliaceous roots, one simply tunicated, the other granulated upon +its surface, called _mahkatte_ and _koohquoppa_, which have a mild +sweetish taste, and are mucilaginous, and eaten raw. The next, which +they have in great quantities, is a root called _aheita_, resembling, +in taste, our liquorice; and another fern root, whose leaves were not +yet disclosed. They also eat, raw, another small, sweetish, insipid +root, about the thickness of _sarsaparilla_; but we were ignorant of +the plant to which it belongs; and also of another root, which is very +large and palmated, which we saw them dig tip near the Village, and +afterward eat it. It is also probable, that, as the season advances, +they have many others, which we did not see. For, though there be no +appearance of cultivation amongst them, there are great quantities of +alder, gooseberry, and currant bushes, whose fruits they may eat in +their natural state, as we have seen them eat the leaves of the last, +and of the lilies, just as they were plucked from the plant. It must, +however, be observed, that one of the conditions which they seem to +require, in all food, is, that it should be of the bland, or less +acrid kind; for they would not eat the leek or garlic, though they +brought vast quantities to sell, when they understood we were fond +of it. Indeed, they seemed to have no relish for any of our food; +and when offered spirituous liquors, they rejected them as something +unnatural and disgusting to the palate. + +Though they sometimes eat small marine animals in their fresh state, +raw, it is their common practice to roast or broil their food; for +they are quite ignorant of our method of boiling; unless we allow that +of preparing their porpoise broth is such; and indeed their vessels +being all of wood, they are quite insufficient for this purpose. + +Their manner of eating is exactly consonant to the nastiness of their +houses and persons; for the troughs and platters, in which they put +their food, appear never to have been washed from the time they were +first made, and the dirty remains of a former meal are only sweeped +away by the succeeding one. They also tear every thing solid, or +tough, to pieces, with their hands and teeth; for, though they make +use of their knives to cut off the larger portions, they have not, as +yet, thought of reducing these to smaller pieces and mouthfuls by the +same means, though obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they +seem to have no idea of cleanliness; for they eat the roots which +they dig from the ground, without so much as shaking off the soil that +adheres to them. + +We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals; for we have seen +them eat at all hours in their canoes. And yet, from seeing several +messes of the porpoise broth preparing toward noon, when we visited +the village, I should suspect that they make a principal meal about +that time. + +Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short truncheons +of bone, somewhat like the _patoo patoo_ of New Zealand, and a small +pick-axe, not unlike the common American _tomahawk_. The spear has +generally a long point, made of bone. Some of the arrows are pointed +with iron; but most commonly their points were of indented bone. The +tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed at one end, and +the other end fixed into a handle of wood. This handle resembles +the head and neck of the human figure; and the stone is fixed in the +mouth, so as to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the +resemblance still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. This +weapon they call _taaweesh_, or _tsuskeeah_. They have another stone +weapon called _seeaik_, nine inches or a foot long, with a square +point. + +From the number of stone weapons and others, we might almost conclude, +that it is their custom to engage in close fight; and we had too +convincing proofs that their wars are both frequent and bloody, from +the vast number of human sculls which they brought to sell. + +Their manufactures and mechanic arts are far more extensive and +ingenious, whether we regard the design or the execution, than could +have been expected from the natural disposition of the people, and +the little progress that civilization has made amongst them in other +respects. The flaxen and woollen garments, with which they cover +themselves, must necessarily engage their first care; and are the most +material of those that can be racked under the head of manufactures. +The former of these are made of the bark of a pine-tree, beat into a +hempen state. It is not spun, but, after being properly prepared, is +spread upon a stick, which is fastened across to two others that stand +upright. It is disposed in such a manner, that the manufacturer, who +sits on her hams at this simple machine, knots it across with small +plaited threads, at the distance of half an inch from each other. +Though, by this method, it be not so close or firm as cloth that is +woven, the bunches between the knots make it sufficiently impervious +to the air, by filling the interstices; and it has the additional +advantage of being softer and more pliable. The woollen garments, +though probably manufactured in the same manner, have the strongest +resemblance to woven cloth. But the various figures, which are very +artificially inserted in them, destroy the supposition of their being +wrought in a loom; it being extremely unlikely that these people +should be so dexterous as to be able to finish such a complex work, +unless immediately by their hands. They are of different degrees of +fineness; some resembling our coarsest rugs or blankets; and others +almost equal to our finest sorts, or even softer, and certainly +warmer. The wool, of which they are made, seems to be taken from +different animals, as the fox and brown _lynx_; the last of which is +by far the finest sort, and, in its natural state, differs little from +the colour of our coarser wools; but the hair, with which the animal +is also covered, being intermixed, its appearance, when wrought, is +somewhat different. The ornamental parts or figures in these garments, +which are disposed with great taste, are commonly of a different +colour, being dyed, chiefly either of a deep brown or of a yellow; the +last of which, when it is new, equals the best in our carpets as to +brightness. + +To their taste or design in working figures upon their garments, +corresponds their fondness for carving in every thing they make of +wood. Nothing is without a kind of freeze-work, or the figure of some +animal upon it; but the most general representation is that of the +human face, which is often cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous +figures mentioned before; and even upon their stone and their +bone weapons. The general design of all these things is perfectly +sufficient to convey a knowledge of the object they are intended to +represent; but the carving is not executed with the nicety that a +dexterous artist would bestow even upon an indifferent design. The +same, however, cannot be said of many of the human masks and heads; +where they shew themselves to be ingenious sculptors. They not only +preserve, with great exactness, the general character of their own +faces, but finish the more minute parts with a degree of accuracy in +proportion, and neatness in execution. The strong propensity of this +people to works of this sort, is remarkable, in a vast variety of +particulars. Small whole human figures; representations of birds, +fish, and land and sea-animals; models of their household utensils and +of their canoes, were found amongst them in great abundance. + +The imitative arts being nearly allied, no wonder that, to their skill +in working figures in their garments, and carving them in wood, they +should add that of drawing them in colours. We have sometimes seen the +whole process of their whale-fishery painted on the caps they wear. +This, though rudely executed, serves, at least, to shew, that, though +there be no appearance of the knowledge of letters amongst them, they +have some notion of a method of commemorating and representing actions +in a lasting way, independently of what may be recorded in their songs +and traditions. They have also other figures painted on some of their +things; but it is doubtful if they ought to be considered as symbols, +that have certain established significations, or only the mere +creation of fancy and caprice. + +Their canoes are of a simple structure; but, to appearance, well +calculated for every useful purpose. Even the largest, which carry +twenty people or more, are formed of one tree. Many of them are forty +feet long, seven broad, and about three deep. From the middle, toward +each end, they become gradually narrower, the after-part, or stern, +ending abruptly or perpendicularly, with a small knob on the top; but +the fore-part is lengthened out, stretching forward and upward, ending +in a notched point or prow, considerably higher than the sides of the +canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they +are without any ornament; but some have a little carving, and are +decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface, like studs, as is +their practice on their masks and weapons. A few have, likewise, a +kind of additional head or prow, like a large cut-water, which is +painted with the figure of some animal. They have no seats, nor any +other supporters, on the inside, than several round sticks, little +thicker than a cane, placed across, at mid depth. They are very light, +and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly, without an +out-rigger, which none of them have; a remarkable distinction between +the navigation of all the American nations and that of the southern +parts of the East Indies, and the islands in the Pacific Ocean. Their +paddles are small and light; the shape, in some measure, resembling +that of a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, +and gradually losing itself in the shaft, the whole being about +five feet long. They have acquired great dexterity in managing these +paddles, by constant use; for sails are no part of their art of +navigation. + +Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously +contrived, and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, +and an instrument like an oar. This last is about twenty feet long, +four or five inches broad, and about half an inch thick. Each edge, +for about two-thirds of its length, (the other third being its +handle,) is set with sharp bone-teeth, about two inches long. Herrings +and sardines, and such other small fish as come in shoals, are +attacked with this instrument; which is struck into the shoal, and the +fish are caught either upon or between the teeth. Their hooks are made +of bone and wood, and rather inartificially; but the harpoon, with +which they strike the whales and lesser sea-animals, shew a great +reach of contrivance. It is composed of a piece of bone, cut into two +barbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a large muscle-shell, in +which is the point of the instrument. To this is fastened about two or +three fathoms of rope; and to throw this harpoon, they use a shaft of +about twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the line or rope is made +fast; and to one end of which the harpoon is fixed, so as to separate +from the shaft, and leave it floating upon the water as a buoy, when +the animal darts away with the harpoon. + +We can say nothing as to the manner of their catching or killing +land-animals, unless we may suppose that they shoot the smaller sorts +with their arrows, and engage bears, or wolves and foxes, with their +spears. They have, indeed, several nets, which are probably applied +to that purpose;[3] as they frequently threw them over their heads, +to shew their use, when they brought them to us for sale. They also, +sometimes, decoy animals, by covering themselves with a skin, and +running about upon all-fours, which they do very nimbly, as appeared +from the specimens of their skill, which they exhibited to us, +making a kind of noise, or neighing, at the same time; and on these +occasions, the masks or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads +of the different animals, are put on. + +[Footnote 3: One of the methods of catching sea-otters, when ashore +at Kamptschatka, is with nets.--See _Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, p. +13.--D.] + +As to the materials, of which they make their various articles, it +is to be observed, that every thing of the rope kind is formed either +from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen +substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The sinews often +appeared to be of such a length, that it might be presumed they could +be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may be said of +the bones of which they made their weapons already mentioned; such as +their bark-beating instruments, the points of their spears, and the +barbs of their harpoons. + +Their great dexterity in works of wood, may, in some measure, be +ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools. For, as far +as we know, they use no other; at least we saw only one chisel of +bone. And though originally their tools must have been of different +materials, it is not improbable that many of their improvements have +been made since they acquired a knowledge of that metal, which now +is universally used in their various wooden works. The chisel and the +knife are the only forms, as far as we saw, that iron assumes amongst +them. The chisel is a long flat piece, filled into a handle of wood. A +stone serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher. +I have seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten inches long, +and three or four inches broad, but, in general, they were smaller. +The knives are of various sizes; some very large; and their blades are +crooked, somewhat like our pruning-knife, but the edge is on the back +or convex part. Most of them that we saw were about the breadth and +thickness of an iron-hoop, and their singular form marks that they +are not of European make. Probably they are imitations of their own +original instruments, used for the same purposes. They sharpen these +iron tools upon a coarse slate whetstone, and likewise keep the whole +instrument constantly bright. + +Iron, which they call _seekemaile_, (which name they also give to tin +and all white metals,) being familiar to these people, it was very +natural for us to speculate about the mode of its being conveyed to +them. Upon our arrival in the Sound, they immediately discovered a +knowledge of traffic, and an inclination for it; and we were convinced +afterward, that they had not received this knowledge from a cursory +interview with any strangers, but, from their method, it seemed to be +an established practice, of which they were fond, and in which they +were also well skilled. With whom they carry on this traffic, may, +perhaps, admit of some doubt. For though we found amongst them things +doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived, from some +civilized nation, such as iron and brass, it by no means appears +that they receive them immediately from these nations. For we never +observed the least sign of their having seen ships like ours before, +nor of their having traded with such people. Many circumstances +serve to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest in their +enquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to settle amongst +them, and if we came as friends; signifying, at the same time, that +they gave the wood and water freely, from friendship. This not only +proves, that they considered the place as entirely their property, +without fearing any superiority; but the enquiry would have been an +unnatural one, on a supposition that any ships had been here before; +had trafficked, and supplied themselves with wood and water; and had +then departed; for, in that case, they might reasonably expect we +would do the same. They, indeed, expressed no marks of surprise at +seeing our ships. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to +their natural indolence of temper, and want of curiosity. Nor were +they even startled at the report of a musquet; till one day, upon +their endeavouring to make us sensible, that their arrows and spears +could not penetrate the hide-dresses, one of our gentlemen shot a +musquet-ball through one of them, folded six times. At this they were +so much staggered, that they plainly discovered their ignorance of the +effect of fire-arms. This was very often confirmed afterward, when we +used them at their village and other places to shoot birds, the manner +of which plainly confounded them; and our explanations of the use of +shot and ball were received with the most significant marks of their +having no previous ideas on this matter. + +Some account of a Spanish voyage to this coast, in 1774, or 1775, +had reached England before I sailed; but the foregoing circumstances +sufficiently prove that these ships had not been at Nootka.[4] Besides +this, it was evident, that iron was too common here; was in too many +hands; and the uses of it were too well known, for them to have had +the first knowledge of it so very lately; or indeed at any earlier +period, by an accidental supply from a ship. Doubtless, from the +general use they make of this metal, it maybe supposed to come from +some constant source, by way of traffic, and that not of a very late +date; for they are as dexterous in using their tools as the longest +practice can make them. The most probable way, therefore, by which we +can suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for it with other +Indian tribes, who either have immediate communication with European +settlements upon that continent, or receive it, perhaps, through +several intermediate nations. The same might be said of the brass and +copper found amongst them. + +[Footnote 4: We now know that Captain Cook's conjecture was well +founded. It appears, from the Journal of this Voyage, already referred +to, that the Spaniards had intercourse with the natives of this coast +only in three places, in latitude 41° 7'; in latitude 47° 21'; and in +latitude 57° 18'. So that they were not within two degrees of Nootka; +and it is most probable that the people there never heard of these +Spanish ships.--D.] + +Whether these things be introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, +from the Indians, who deal with our traders, and so successively +across from one tribe to the other; or whether they be brought from +the north-western parts of Mexico in the same manner, perhaps cannot +be easily determined. But it should seem, that not only the rude +materials, but some articles in their manfactured state, find their +way hither. The brass ornaments for noses, in particular, are so +neatly made, that I am doubtful whether the Indians are capable +of fabricating them. The materials, certainly, are European; as no +American tribes have been found, who knew the method of making brass; +though copper has been commonly met with, and, from its softness, +might be fashioned into any shape, and also polished. If our traders +to Hudson's Bay and Canada do not use such articles in their traffic +with the natives, they must have been introduced at Nootka from the +quarter of Mexico, from whence, no doubt, the two silver table-spoons, +met with here, were originally derived. It is most probable, however, +that the Spaniards are not such eager traders, nor have formed such +extensive connections with the tribes north of Mexico, as to supply +them with quantities of iron, from which they can spare so much to the +people here.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Though the two silver table-spoons, found at Nootka +Sound, most probably came from the Spaniards in the south, there seems +to be sufficient grounds for believing that the regular supply of iron +comes from a different quarter. It is remarkable, that the Spaniards, +in 1775, found at _Puerto de la Trinidad_, in latitude 41°7', _arrows +pointed with copper or iron, which they understood were procured +from the north_. Mr Daines Barrington, in a note at this part of the +Spanish journal, p. 20, says "I should conceive, that the copper and +iron here mentioned, must have originally been bartered at our forts +in Hudson's Bay."--D.] + +Of the political and religious institutions established amongst +them, it cannot be supposed that we should learn much. This we could +observe, that there are such men as chiefs, who are distinguished by +the name or title of _Acweek_, and to whom the others are, in some +measure, subordinate. But I should guess, the authority of each +of these great men extends no farther than the family to which he +belongs, and who own him as their head. These _Acweeks_ were not +always elderly men; from which I concluded that this title came to +them by inheritance. + +I saw nothing that could give the least insight into their notions +of religion, besides the figures before mentioned, called by them +_Klumma_. Most probably these were idols; but as they frequently +mentioned the word _acweek_, when they spoke of them, we may, perhaps, +be authorised to suppose, that they are the images of some of their +ancestors, whom they venerate as divinities. But all this is mere +conjecture; for we saw no act of religious homage paid to them; nor +could we gain any information, as we had learned little more of their +language than to ask the names of things, without being able to hold +any conversation with the natives, that might instruct us as to their +institutions or traditions. + +In drawing up the preceding account of the people of this Sound, I +have occasionally blended Mr Anderson's observations with my own; +but I owe every thing to him. that relates to their language; and the +following remarks are in his own words. + +"Their language is by no means harsh or disagreeable, farther +than proceeds from their using the _k_ and _h_ with more force, or +pronouncing them with less softness than we do; and, upon the whole, +it abounds rather with what we may call labial and dental, than with +guttural sounds. The simple sounds, which we have not heard them use, +and which, consequently, may be reckoned rare, or wanting in their +language, are those represented by the letters _b, d, f, g, r,_ and +_v_. But, on the other hand, they have one, which is very frequent, +and not used by us. It is formed, in a particular manner, by clashing +the tongue partly against the roof of the mouth with considerable +force, and may be compared to a very coarse or harsh method of +lisping. It is difficult to represent this sound by any composition of +our letters, unless somehow from _lszthl_. This is one of their most +usual terminations, though we sometimes found it in the beginning of +words. The next most general termination is composed of _tl_; and many +words end with _z_ and _ss_. A specimen or two of each of these is +here put down: + + _Opulszthl_, The sun. + _Onulszthl_, The moon. + _Kahsheetl_, Dead. + _Teeshcheetl_, To throw a stone. + _Kooomitz_, A human scull. + _Quahmiss_, Fish roe. + +"They seem to take so great a latitude in their mode of speaking, that +I have sometimes observed four or five different terminations of +the same word. This is a circumstance very puzzling at first to a +stranger, and marks a great imperfection in their language. + +"As to the composition of it, we can say very little; having been +scarcely able to distinguish the several parts of speech. It can only +be inferred, from their method of speaking, which is very slow and +distinct, that it has few prepositions or conjunctions; and, as far +as we could discover, is destitute of even a single interjection, to +express admiration or surprise. From its having few conjunctions, +it may be conceived, that these being thought unnecessary, as being +understood, each single word with them will also express a great deal, +or comprehend several simple ideas; which seems to be the case. But, +for the same reason, the language will be defective in other respects; +not having words to distinguish or express differences which really +exist, and hence not sufficiently copious. This was observed to be +the case in many instances, particularly with respect to the names +of animals. The relation or affinity it may bear to other languages, +either on this or on the Asiatic continent, I have not been able +sufficiently to trace for want of proper specimens to compare it +with, except those of the Esquimaux and Indians about Hudson's Bay; +to neither of which it bears the least resemblance. On the other hand, +from the few Mexican words I have been able to procure, there is the +most obvious agreement, in the very frequent terminations of the words +in _l_, _tl_, or _z_, throughout the language."[6] + +[Footnote 6: May we not, in confirmation of Mr Anderson's remark, +observe, that _Opulszthl_, the Nootka name of the Sun; and +_Vitziputzli_, the name of the Mexican Divinity, have no very distant +affinity in sound?--D.] + + +The large vocabulary of the Nootka language, collected by Mr Anderson, +shall be reserved for another place,[7] as its insertion here would +too much interrupt our narration. At present I only select their +numerals, for the satisfaction of such of our readers as love to +compare those of different nations in different parts of the world: + + _Tsawack_, One. + _Akkla_, Two. + _Katsitsa_, Three. + _Mo_, or _Moo_, Four. + _Sochah_, Five. + _Nofpo_, Six. + _Atstepoo_, Seven. + _Atlaquolthl_, Eight. + _Tsawaquulthl_, Nine. + _Haeeoo_, Ten. + +[Footnote 7: It will be found at the end of the voyage.] + +Were I to affix a name to the people of Nootka, as a distinct nation, +I would call them _Wakashians_; from the word _wakash_, which was +very frequently in their mouths. It seemed to express applause, +approbation, and friendship. For when they appeared to be satisfied, +or well pleased with any thing they saw, or any incident that +happened, they would, with one voice, call out, _wakash! wakash!_ +I shall take my leave of them, with remarking, that, differing so +essentially, as they certainly do, in their persons, their customs, +and language, from the inhabitants of the islands in the Pacific +Ocean, we cannot suppose their respective progenitors to have been +united in the same tribe, or to have had any intimate connection, when +they emigrated from their original settlements, into the places where +we now find their descendants. + +My account of the transactions in Nootka Sound would be imperfect, +without adding the astronomical and nautical observations made by us, +while the ships were in that station. + + _Latitude._ + + The latitude of the \ Sun 49° 36' 1", 15"' + observatory, by } Stars / South 49 36 8, 36 + / \ North 49 36 10, 30 + ________________ + The mean of these means 49 36 6, 47 north. + + _Longitude._ + + | Twenty sets \ + | taken on the | 233° 26' 18", 7"' + | 21st and 23d | + | of March. / + | + The longitude, by / Ninety-three \ + lunar observations. \ taken at the } 233 18 6, 6 + | observatory / + + | Twenty-four \ + | taken on the | 233 7 16, 7 + | 1st, 2d, and | + | 3d of May. / + The mean of these means 233 17 14, 0 East. + + But by reducing each set, taken | + before we arrived in the Sound, | + and after we left it, by the time- \ 233° 17' 30", 5"' + keeper, and adding them up / + with those made on the spot, | + the mean of the 137 sets, will be | + + Longitude by the / Greenwich rate 235° 46' 51", 0"' + time-keeper \ Ulietea rate 333 59 24, 0 + + +From the results of the last fifteen days observations of equal +altitudes of the sun, the daily rate of the time-keeper was losing, +on mean time, 7"; and on the 16th of April, she was too slow for mean +time by 16^h 0^m 58",45. There was found an irregularity in her rate +greater than at any time before. It was thought proper to reject the +first five days, as the rate in them differed so much from that of the +fifteen following; and even in these, each day differed from another +more than usual. + + _Variation of the Compass._ + + /A.M.\ Observatory / 15° 57' 48-1/2" \ + April 4.{ } { } 15° 49' 25" East. + \PM / Mean of four Needles\ 15 41 2 / + + 5. /A.M.\ On board the ship / 9° 50 49 \ + { } { } 19 44 47-1/2 + 6. \P.M./ Mean of four Needles\ 19 38 46 / + +The variation found on board the ship ought to be taken for the true +one; not only as it agreed with what we observed at sea, but because +it was found that there was something ashore that had a considerable +effect upon the compasses; in some places more than others. At one +spot, on the west point of the Sound, the needle was attracted 113/4 +points from its proper direction. + + _Inclination of the Dipping Needle._ + + April 5th. /Marked \End North \ 71° 26' 22-1/2"\ + On board with { } } } 71° 40' 22-1/2" + balanced needle. \Unmarked /and dipping / 71 54 22-1/2 / + + The Same needle /Marked \End North \ 72 3 45 \ + at the { } } } 70 0 0 + observatory. \Unmarked /and dipping / 71 56 15 / + + /Marked \End North \ 71 58 20 \ + 18th ditto { } } } 72 7 15 + \Unmarked /and dipping / 72 16 10 / + + 5th. Spare needle /Marked \End North \ 72 32 30 \ + at the { } } } 72 49 15 + observatory \Unmarked /and dipping / 73 6 0 / + + /Marked \End North \ 72 55 0 \ + 18th ditto { } } } 73 11 45 + \Unmarked /and dipping / 73 28 30 / + + 22d. Spare /Marked \End North \ 73 28 38 \ + needle on { } } } 73 11 0 + board \Unmarked /and dipping / 72 53 30 / + + Hence the mean dip, with both needles, on shore, was 72 32 3-1/4 + + On board 72 25 45-1/4 + +This is as near as can be expected; and shews, that whatever it was +that affected the compasses, whether on board or ashore, it had no +effect upon the dipping needles. + +_Tides._ + +It is high water on the days of the new and full moon at 12^h 20^m. +The perpendicular rise and fall, eight feet nine inches; which is to +be understood of the day-tides, and those which happen two or three +days after the full and new moon. The night-tides, at this time, rise +near two feet higher. This was very conspicuous during the spring-tide +of the full moon, which happened soon after our arrival; and it was +obvious, that it would be the same in those of the new moon, though we +did not remain here long enough to see the whole of its effect. + +Some circumstances, that occurred daily, relating to this, deserve +particular notice. In the cove, where we got wood and water, was a +great deal of drift wood thrown ashore; a part of which we had to +remove to come at the water. It often happened, that large pieces of +trees, which we had removed in the day out of the reach of the then +high water, were found, the next morning, floated again in our way; +and all our spouts, for conveying down the water, thrown out of their +places, which were immoveable during the day-tides. We also found, +that wood, which we had split up for fuel, and had deposited beyond +the reach of the day-tide, floated away during the night. Some of +these circumstances happened every night or morning, for three or +four days in the height of the spring-tides; during which time we were +obliged to attend every morning-tide, to remove the large logs out of +the way of watering. + +I cannot say whether the flood-tide falls into the Sound from the +north-west, south-west, or south-east. I think it does not come +from the last quarter; but this is only conjecture, founded upon the +following observations: The south-east gales, which we had in the +Sound, were so far from increasing the rise of the tide, that they +rather diminished it; which would hardly have happened, if the flood +and wind had been in the same direction. + + +SECTION IV. + +_A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound.--Resolution springs +a Leak.--Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed +unexamined.--Progress along the Coast of America.--Behring's +Bay.--Kaye's Island.--Account of it.--The Ships come to an +Anchor.--Visited by the Natives.--Their Behaviour.--Fondness for +Beads and Iron.--Attempt to plunder the Discovery.--Resolution's Leak +stopped.--Progress up the Sound.--Messrs Gore and Roberts sent to +examine its Extent.--Reasons against a Passage to the North through +it.--The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea._ + +Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, as before related, with +strong signs of an approaching storm, these signs did not deceive +us. We were hardly out of the Sound, before the wind, in an instant, +shifted from north-east to south-east by east, and increased to a +strong gale, with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky, that we +could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the +experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the wind veering +more to the south, which would put us in danger of a lee-shore, we got +the tacks on board, and stretched off to the south-west, under all +the sail that the ships could bear. Fortunately, the wind veered +no farther southerly than south-east; so that at day-light the next +morning we were quite clear of the coast. + +The Discovery being at some distance a-stern, I brought-to till she +came up, and then bore away, steering north-west; in which direction I +supposed the coast to lie. The wind was at south-east, blew very +hard, and in squalls, with thick hazy weather. At half-past one in +the afternoon, it blew a perfect hurricane; so that I judged it highly +dangerous to run any longer before it, and therefore brought the +ships to, with their heads to the southward, under the foresails and +mizen-stay-sails. At this time the Resolution sprung a leak, which, at +first, alarmed us not a little. It was found to be under the starboard +buttock; where, from the bread-room, we could both hear and see the +water rush in; and, as we then thought, two feet under water. But in +this we were happily mistaken; for it was afterward found to be even +with the water-line, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It +was no sooner discovered, than the fish-room was found to be full of +water, and the casks in it afloat; but this was, in a great measure, +owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals +that lay in the bottom of the room. For, after the water was baled +out, which employed us till midnight, and had found its way directly +from the leak to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, +which gave us no small satisfaction. In the evening, the wind veered +to the south, and its fury, in some degree, ceased. On this we set +the main-sail, and two topsails close-reefed, and stretched to the +westward. But at eleven o'clock the gale again increased, and obliged +us to take in the topsails, till five o'clock the next morning, when +the storm began to abate, so that we could bear to set them again. + +The weather now began to clear up, and being able to see several +leagues round us, I steered more to the northward. At noon, the +latitude, by observation, was 50° 1'; longitude 229° 26'.[1] I now +steered N.W. by N., with a fresh gale at S.S.E. and fair weather. But +at nine in the evening, it began again to blow hard, and in squalls, +with rain. With such weather, and the wind between S.S.E. and S.W. I +continued the same course till the 30th, at four in the morning, when +I steered N. by W. in order to make the land. I regretted very much +indeed that I could not do it sooner; for this obvious reason, that +we were now passing the place where geographers[2] have placed the +pretended strait of Admiral de Fonte. For my own part, I give no +credit to such vague and improbable stories, that carry their own +confutation along with them. Nevertheless, I was very desirous of +keeping the American coast aboard, in order to clear up this point +beyond dispute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me to have +engaged with the land in weather so exceedingly tempestuous, or to +have lost the advantage of a fair wind by waiting for better weather. +This same day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 53° 22', and in the +longitude of 225° 14'. + +[Footnote 1: As in the remaining part of this chapter, the latitude +and longitude are very frequently set down, the former being +invariably North, and the latter East, the constant repetition of the +two words, _North_ and _East_, has been omitted, to avoid unnecessary +precision.] + +[Footnote 2: See de Lisle's _Générale des Découvertes de l'Amiral de +Fonte_, &c. Paris, 1752; and many other maps.] + +The next morning, being the 1st of May, seeing nothing of the land, +I steered north-easterly, with a fresh breeze at S.S.E. and S., with +squalls, and showers of rain and hail. Our latitude at noon 54° 43', +and our longitude 224° 44'. At seven in the evening, being in the +latitude of 55° 20', we got sight of the land, extending from N.N.E. +to E., or E. by S. about twelve or fourteen leagues distant. An hour +after, I steered N. by W.; and at four the next morning, the coast +was seen from N. by W. to S.E. the nearest part about six leagues +distant.[3] + +[Footnote 3: This must be very near that part of the American coast +where Tscherikow anchored in 1741, for Muller places its latitude +in 56°. Had this Russian navigator been so fortunate as to proceed a +little farther northward along the coast, he would have found, as we +now learn from Captain Cook, bays, and harbours, and islands, where +his ship might have been sheltered, and his people protected in +landing. For the particulars of the misfortunes he met with here, two +boats' crews, which he sent ashore, having never returned, probably +cut off by the natives, see _Muller's Découvertes de Russes_, p. 248, +254. The Spaniards, in 1775, found two good harbours on this part +of the coast; that called _Guadalupe_, in latitude 57° 11', and the +other, _De los Remedios_, in latitude 57° 18'.--D.] + +At this time the northern point of an inlet, or what appeared to be +one, bore E. by S. It lies in the latitude of 56°; and from it to +the northward, the coast seemed to be much broken, forming bays or +harbours every two or three leagues, or else appearances much deceived +us. At six o'clock, drawing nearer the land, I steered N.W. by N., +this being the direction of the coast; having a fresh gale at S.E. +with some showers of hail, snow, and sleet. Between eleven and twelve +o'clock, we passed a group of small islands, lying under the main +land, in the latitude of 56° 48'; and off, or rather to the northward +of the south point of a large bay. An arm of this bay, in the northern +part of it, seemed to extend in toward the north, behind a round +elevated mountain that lies between it and the sea. This mountain I +called _Mount Edgcumbe_; and the point of land that shoots out from it +_Cape Edgcumbe_. The latter lies in the latitude of 57° 3', and in +the longitude of 224° 7'; and at noon it bore north 20° W. six leagues +distant. + +The land, except in some places close to the sea, is all of a +considerable height, and hilly; but Mount Edgcumbe far out-tops all +the other hills. It was wholly covered with snow; as were also all +the other elevated hills; but the lower ones, and the flatter spots, +bordering upon the sea, were free from it, and covered with wood. + +As we advanced to the north, we found the coast from Cape Edgcumbe +to trend north and north-easterly for six or seven leagues, and there +form a large bay. In the entrance of that bay are some islands; for +which reason I named it the _Bay of Islands_. It lies in the latitude +of 57° 20';[4] and seemed to branch into several arms, one of which +turned to the south, and may probably communicate with the bay on the +east side of Cape Edgcumbe, and make the land of the Cape an island. +At eight o'clock in the evening, the Cape bore S.E. 1/2 S.; the Bay +of Islands N. 53° E.; and another inlet, before which are also some +islands, bore N. 52° E. five leagues distant. I continued to steer +N.N.W. 1/2 W. and N.W. by W. as the coast trended, with a fine gale at +N.E. and clear weather. + +[Footnote 4: It should seem, that, in this very bay, the Spaniards, in +1775, found their port which they call _De los Remedios_. The latitude +is exactly the same; and their journal mentions its being protected +by a long ridge of high islands. See Miscellanies, by the Honourable +Daines Barrington, p. 503, 504.--D.] + +At half-an-hour past four in the morning, on the 3d, Mount Edgcumbe +bore S. 54° E.; a large inlet, N. 50° E., distant six leagues; and +the most advanced point of the land, to the N.W. lying under a very +high-peaked mountain, which obtained the name of _Mount Fairweather_, +bore N. 32° W. The inlet was named _Cross Sound_, as being first +seen on that day, so marked in our calendar. It appeared to branch in +several arms, the largest of which turned to the northward. The S.E. +point of this Sound is a high promontory, which obtained the name of +_Cross Cape_. It lies in the latitude of 57° 57', and its longitude +is 223° 21'. At noon it bore S.E.; and the point under the peaked +mountain, which was called _Cape Fairweather_, N. by W. 1/4 W., +distant thirteen leagues. Our latitude at this time was 58° 17', and +our longitude 222° 14'; and we were distant from the shore three or +four leagues. In this situation we found the variation of the compass +to be from 24° 11' to 26° 11' E. + +Here the N.E. wind left us, and was succeeded by light breezes from +the N.W. which lasted for several days. I stood to the S.W. and W.S.W. +till eight o'clock the next morning, when we tacked, and stood toward +the shore. At noon, the latitude was 58° 22', and the longitude 220° +45'. Mount Fairweather, the peaked mountain over the Cape of the same +name, bore N. 63° E.; the shore under it twelve leagues distant. This +mountain, which lies in the latitude of 58° 52', and in the longitude +of 222°, and five leagues inland, is the highest of a chain, or rather +a ridge of mountains, that rise at the N.W. entrance of Cross Sound, +and extend to the N.W. in a parallel direction with the coast. These +mountains were wholly covered with snow, from the highest summit down +to the sea-coast; some few places excepted, where we could perceive +trees rising, as it were, out of the sea; and which, therefore, we +supposed, grew on low land, or on islands bordering upon the shore of +the continent.[5] At five in the afternoon, our latitude being +then 58° 53', and our longitude 220° 52', the summit of an elevated +mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing N., 26° W., and, as +was afterwards found, forty leagues distant. We supposed it to be +Beering's Mount St Elias; and it stands by that name in our chart. + +[Footnote 5: According to Muller, Beering fell in with the coast of +North America in latitude 58° 28', and he describes its aspect thus: +"_L'aspect du pays étoit affrayaut par ses hautes montagnes couvertes +de niege._" The chain or ridge of mountains covered with snow, +mentioned here by Captain Cook, in the same latitude, exactly agrees +with what Beering met with. See Muller's _Voyages et Découvertes de +Russes_, p. 248-254.--D.] + +This day we saw several whales, seals, and porpoises; many gulls, and +several flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head; the +tip of the tail, and the upper part of the wings, with a black band; +and the rest bluish above and white below. We also saw a brownish +duck, with a black or deep-blue head and neck, sitting upon the water. + +Having but light winds, with some calms, we advanced slowly; so that +on the 6th at noon we were only in the latitude of 59° 8', and in +the longitude of 220° 19'. Mount Fairweather bore S. 63° E. and Mount +Elias N. 30° W.; the nearest land about eight leagues distant. In the +direction of N. 47° E. from this station, there was the appearance +of a bay, and an island off the S. point of it that was covered with +wood. It is here where I suppose Commodore Beering to have anchored. +The latitude, which is 59° 18', corresponds pretty well with the map +of his voyage,[6] and the longitude is 221° E. Behind the bay, (which +I shall distinguish by the name of Beering's Bay, in honour of its +discoverer,) or rather to the south of it, the chain of mountains +before mentioned is interrupted by a plain of a few leagues extent; +beyond which the sight was unlimited; so that there is either a level +country or water behind it. In the afternoon, having a few hours calm, +I took this opportunity to sound, and found seventy fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom. The calm was succeeded by a light breeze from the +N., with which we stood to the westward; and at noon the next day, we +were in the latitude of 59° 27', and the longitude of 219° 7'. In this +situation, Mount Fairweather bore S. 70° E.; Mount St Elias N. 1/2 +W.; the westernmost land in sight N. 52° W.; and our distance from +the shore four or five leagues; the depth of water being eighty-two +fathoms over a muddy bottom. From this station we could see a bay +(circular to appearance) under the high land, with low wood-land on +each side of it. + +[Footnote 6: Probably Captain Cook means Muller's map, prefixed to his +History of the Russian Discoveries.--D.] + +We now found the coast to trend very much to the west, inclining +hardly any thing to the north; and as we had the wind mostly from the +westward, and but little of it, our progress was slow. On the 9th +at noon, the latitude was 59° 30', and the longitude 217°. In this +situation the nearest land was nine leagues distant; and Mount St +Elias bore N., 30° E, nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies +twelve leagues inland in the latitude of 60° 27', and in the longitude +of 219°. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high mountains, that +may be reckoned a continuation of the former, as they are only divided +from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west +as the longitude of 217°; where, although they do not end, they lose +much of their height, and become more broken and divided. + +At noon on the 10th, our latitude was 59° 51', and our longitude +215° 56', being no more than three leagues from, the coast of the +continent, which extended from E. 1/2 N., to N.W. 1/2 W., as far as +the eye could reach. To the westward of this last direction was an +island that extended from N., 52° W., to S., 85° W., distant six +leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the N.E. end of +the island, bearing, at this time, N., 30° W., five or six leagues +distant. This point I named _Cape Suckling_. The point of the cape is +low; but within it, is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from +the mountains by low land; so that, at a distance, the cape looks like +an island. On the north side of Cape Suckling is a bay that appeared +to be of some extent, and to be covered from most winds. To this bay I +had some thoughts of going, to stop our leak, as all our endeavours to +do it at sea had proved ineffectual. With this view, I steered for +the cape; but as we had only variable light breezes, we approached +it slowly. However, before night, we were near enough to see some low +land spitting out from the cape to the north-west, so as to cover +the east part of the bay from the south wind. We also saw some small +islands in the bay, and elevated rocks between the cape and the +north-east end of the island. But still there appeared to be a passage +on both sides of these rocks; and I continued steering for them all +night, having from forty-three to twenty-seven fathoms water over a +muddy bottom. + +At four o'clock next morning, the wind, which had been mostly at N.E., +shifted to N. This being against us, I gave up the design of going +within the island, or into the bay, as neither could be done without +loss of time. I therefore bore up for the west end of the island. The +wind blew faint, and at ten o'clock it fell calm. Being not far from +the island, I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a view of +seeing what lay on the other side; but finding it farther to the hills +than I expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was obliged to +drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far +from the shore, I left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were +inscribed the names of the ships, and the date of our discovery. And +along with it, I inclosed two silver two-penny pieces of his majesty's +coin, of the date 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by +the Reverend Dr Kaye;[7] and, as a mark of my esteem and regard for +that gentleman, I named the island, after him, _Kaye's Island_. It is +eleven or twelve leagues in length, in the direction of N.E. and S.W.; +but its breadth is not above a league, or a league and a half, in any +part of it. The S.W. point, which lies in the latitude of 59° 49', +and the longitude of 216° 58', is very remarkable, being a naked +rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an +elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears +like a ruined castle. Toward the sea, the island terminates in a kind +of bare-sloping cliffs, with a beach, only a few paces across to +their foot, of large pebble stones, intermixed in some places with a +brownish clayey sand, which the sea seems to deposit after rolling +in, having been washed down from the higher parts, by the rivulets or +torrents. The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or rock, in a soft +or mouldering state, except in a few places. There are parts of the +shore interrupted by small vallies and gullies. In each of these, a +rivulet or torrent rushes down with considerable impetuosity; though +it may be supposed that they are only furnished from the snow, and +last no longer than till it is all melted. These vallies are filled +with pine-trees, which grow down close to the entrance, but only to +about half way up the higher or middle part of the island. The woody +part also begins, every-where, immediately above the cliffs, and is +continued to the same height with the former; so that the island is +covered, as it were, with a broad girdle of wood, spread upon its +side, included between the top of the cliffy shore; and the higher +parts in the centre. The trees, however, are far from being of an +uncommon growth; few appearing to be larger than one might grasp round +with his arms, and about forty or fifty feet high; so that the only +purpose they could answer for shipping, would be to make top-gallant +masts, and other small things. How far we may judge of the size of the +trees which grow on the neighbouring continent, it may be difficult +to determine. But it was observed, that none larger than those we saw +growing, lay upon the beach amongst the drift-wood. The pine-trees +seemed all of one sort; and there was neither the Canadian pine, nor +cypress, to be seen. But there were a few which appeared to be the +alder, that were but small, and had not yet shot forth their leaves. +Upon the edges of the cliffs, and on some sloping ground, the surface +was covered with a kind of turf, about half a foot thick, which seemed +composed of the common moss; and the top, or upper part of the island, +had almost the same appearance as to colour; but whatever covered +it seemed to be thicker. I found amongst the trees some currant and +hawberry bushes; a small yellow-flowered violet; and the leaves +of some other plants not yet in flower, particularly one which Mr +Anderson supposed to be the _heracleum_ of Linnæus, the sweet herb, +which Steller, who attended Beering, imagined the Americans here dress +for food, in the same manner as the natives of Kamtschatka. + +[Footnote 7: Then sub-almoner and chaplain to his majesty, afterwards +Dean of Lincoln.--D.] + +We saw, flying about the wood, a crow; two or three of the +white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka; and another sort full as +large, which appeared also of the same colour, or blacker, and had +only a white breast.[8] In the passage from the ship to the shore, +we saw a great many fowls sitting upon the water, or flying about +in flocks or pairs; the chief of which were a few quebrantaheuses, +divers, ducks, or large peterels, gulls, shags, and burres. The divers +were of two sorts; one very large, of a black colour, with a white +breast and belly; the other smaller, and with a longer and more +pointed bill, which seemed to be the common guillemot. The ducks were +also of two sorts; one brownish, with a black or deep blue head and +neck, and is perhaps the stone-duck described by Steller. The others +fly in larger flocks, but are smaller than these, and are of a dirty +black colour. The gulls were of the common sort, and those which fly +in flocks. The shags were large and black, with a white spot behind +the wings as they flew; but probably only the larger water cormorant. +There was also a single bird seen flying about, to appearance of the +gull kind, of a snowy white colour, with black along part of the upper +side of its wings. I owe all these remarks to Mr Anderson. At the +place where we landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyed +us with very little emotion, walking leisurely without any signs of +fear. He was of a reddish-yellow colour, like some of the skins we +bought at Nootka, but not of a large size. We also saw two or three +little seals off shore; but no other animals or birds, nor the least +signs of inhabitants having ever been upon the island. + +[Footnote 8: This species is in the Leverian Museum, and described by +Mr Latham, in his Synopsis of Birds, vol. i. p. 33, No. 72, under the +name of the _White-bellied Eagle_.] + +I returned on board at half past two in the afternoon; and, with a +light breeze easterly, steered for the S.W. point of the island, which +we got round by eight o'clock, and then stood for the westernmost land +now in sight, which, at this time, bore N.W. 1/2 N. On the N.W. side +of the N.E. end of Kaye's Island, lies another island, stretching S.E. +and N.W. about three leagues, to within the same distance of the N.W. +boundary of the bay above mentioned, which is distinguished by the +name of _Comptroller's Bay_. + +Next morning, at four o'clock, Kaye's Island was still in sight, +bearing E. 1/4 S. At this time, we were about four or five leagues +from the main; and the most western part in sight bore N.W. 1/2 N. +We had now a fresh gale at E.S.E., and as we advanced to the N.W., we +raised land more and more westerly, and, at last, to the southward of +W.; so that, at noon, when the latitude was 61° 11", and the longitude +213° 28', the most advanced land bore from us S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At the +same time, the E. point of a large inlet bore W.N.W., three leagues +distant. + +From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which I named _Cape +Hinchingbroke_, the direction of the coast is nearly E. and W. Beyond +this, it seemed to incline to the southward; a direction so contrary +to the modern charts founded upon the late Russian discoveries, that +we had reason to expect that, by the inlet before us, we should find +a passage to the N.; and that the land to the W. and S.W. was nothing +but a group of islands. Add to this, that the wind was now at S.E., +and we were threatened with a fog and a storm; and I wanted to get +into some place to stop the leak, before we encountered another gale. +These reasons induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no +sooner reached, than the weather became so foggy, that we could not +see a mile before us, and it became necessary to secure the ships in +some place, to wait for a clearer sky. With this view, I hauled close +under Cape Hinchingbroke, and anchored before a small cove, a little +within the cape, in eight fathoms water, a clayey bottom, and about a +quarter of a mile from the shore. + +The boats were then hoisted out, some to sound, and others to fish. +The seine was drawn in the cove; but without success, for it was torn. +At some short intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave us a sight +of the lands around us. The cape bore S. by W. 1/2 W., one league +distant; the W. point of the inlet S.W. by W., distant five leagues; +and the land on that side extended as far as W. by N. Between this +point and N.W. by W., we could see no land; and what was in the last +direction seemed to be at a great distance. The westernmost point we +had in sight on the N. shore, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. +Between this point, and the shore under which we were at anchor, is a +bay about three leagues deep; on the S.E. side of which there are two +or three coves, such as that before which we had anchored, and in the +middle some rocky islands. + +To these islands Mr Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes of shooting +some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to them, before about twenty +natives made their appearance in two large canoes; on which he thought +proper to return to the ships, and they followed him. They would not +venture alongside, but kept at some distance, hollowing aloud, and +alternately clasping and extending their arms; and, in a short time, +began a kind of song exactly after the manner of those at Nootka. +Their heads were also powdered with feathers. One man held out a white +garment, which we interpreted as a sign of friendship; and another +stood up in the canoe, quite naked, for almost a quarter of an hour, +with his arms stretched out like a cross, and motionless. The canoes +were not constructed of wood, as at King George's or Nootka Sound. The +frame only, being slender laths, was of that substance; the outside +consisting of the skins of seals, or of such like animals. Though +we returned all their signs of friendship, and, by every expressive +gesture, tried to encourage them to come alongside, we could not +prevail. Some of our people repeated several of the common words of +the Nootka language, such as _seekemaile_, and _mahook_; but they did +not seem to understand them. After receiving some presents, which were +thrown to them, they retired toward that part of the shore from whence +they came; giving us to understand by signs, that they would visit us +again the next morning. Two of them, however, each in a small +canoe, waited upon us in the night; probably with a design to pilfer +something, thinking we should be all asleep; for they retired as soon +as they found themselves discovered. + +During the night, the wind was at S.S.E., blowing hard and in squalls, +with rain, and very thick weather. At ten o'clock next morning, the +wind became more moderate, and the weather being somewhat clearer, +we got under sail, in order to look out for some snug place, where +we might search for, and stop the leak; our present station being too +much exposed for this purpose. At first I proposed to have gone up the +bay, before which we had anchored; but the clearness of the weather +tempted me to steer to the northward, farther up the great inlet, as +being all in our way. As soon as we had passed the N.W. point of the +bay above mentioned, we found the coast on that side to turn short +to the eastward. I did not follow it, but continued our course to the +north, for a point of land which we saw in that direction. + +The natives who visited us the preceding evening, came off again in +the morning, in five or six canoes; but not till we were under sail; +and although they followed us for some time, they could not get up +with us. Before two in the afternoon, the bad weather returned again, +with so thick a haze, that we could see no other land besides the +point just mentioned, which we reached at half past four, and found it +to be a small island, lying about two miles from the adjacent coast, +being a point of land, on the east side of which we discovered a fine +bay, or rather harbour. To this we plied up, under reefed topsails +and courses. The wind blew strong at S.E., and in excessively +hard squalls, with rain. At intervals, we could see land in every +direction; but in general the weather was so foggy, that we could see +none but the shores of the bay into which we were plying. In passing +the island, the depth of water was twenty-six fathoms, with a muddy +bottom. Soon after, the depth increased to sixty and seventy fathoms, +a rocky bottom; but in the entrance of the bay, the depth was from +thirty to six fathoms; the last very near the shore. At length, at +eight o'clock, the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in +thirteen fathoms, before we had got so far into the bay as I intended; +but we thought ourselves fortunate that we had already sufficiently +secured ourselves at this hour; for the night was exceedingly stormy. + +The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the natives from +paying us a visit. They came off in two canoes; two men in one, and +one in the other, being the number each could carry. For they were +built and constructed in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux; +only in the one were two holes for two men to sit in, and in the other +but one. Each of these men had a stick, about three feet long, with +the large feathers or wing of birds tied to it. These they frequently +held up to us, with a view, as we guessed, to express their pacific +disposition.[9] + +[Footnote 9: Exactly corresponding to this, was the manner of +receiving Beering's people, at the Schumagin Islands, on this coast, +in 1741. Muller's words are--"On sait ce que c'est que le _Calumet_, +que les Americans septentrionaux présentent en signe de paix. Ceux-ci +en tenoient de pareils en main. C'étoient des bâtons avec _ailes de +faucon_ attachées au bout"--Decouvertes, p. 268.--D.] + +The treatment these men met with, induced many more to visit us, +between one and two the next morning, in both great and small canoes. +Some ventured on board the ship; but not till some of our people +had stepped into their boats. Amongst those who came on board, was a +good-looking middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the chief. +He was cloathed in a dress made of the sea-otter's skin; and had on +his head such a cap as is worn by the people of King George's Sound, +ornamented with sky-blue glass beads, about the size of a large pea. +He seemed to set a much higher value upon these, than upon our white +glass beads. Any sort of beads, however, appeared to be in high +estimation with these people; and they readily gave whatever they had +in exchange for them, even their fine sea-otter skins. But here I must +observe, that they set no more value upon these than upon other skins, +which was also the case at King George's Sound, till our people set +a higher price upon them; and even after that, the natives of both +places would sooner part with a dress made of these, than with one +made of the skins of wild-cats or of martins. + +These people were also desirous of iron; but they wanted pieces eight +or ten inches long at least, and of the breadth of three or four +fingers. For they absolutely rejected small pieces. Consequently, they +got but little from us; iron having, by this time, become rather a +scarce article. The points of some of their spears or lances were of +that metal; others were of copper, and a few of bone; of which the +points of their darts, arrows, &c. were composed. I could not prevail +open the chief to trust himself below the upper deck; nor did he and +his companions remain long on board. But while we had their company, +it was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a +thievish disposition. At length, after being about three at four +hours alongside the Resolution, they all left her, and went to the +Discovery; none having been there before, except one man, who, at this +time, came from her, and immediately returned thither in company +with the rest. When I observed this, I thought this man had met with +something there, which he knew would please his countrymen better than +what they met with at our ship. But in this I was mistaken, as will +soon appear. + +As soon as they were gone, I sent a boat to sound the head of the +bay. For, as the wind was moderate, I had thoughts of laying the ship +ashore, if a convenient place could be found where I might begin our +operations to stop the leak. It was not long before all the Americans +left the Discovery, and instead of returning to us, made their way +toward our boat employed as above. The officer in her seeing, this, +returned to the ship, and was followed by all the canoes. The boat's +crew had no sooner come on board, leaving in her two of their number +by way of a guard, than some of the Americans stepped into her. Some +presented their spears before the two men; others cast loose the rope +which fastened her to the ship; and the rest attempted to tow her +away. But the instant they saw us preparing to oppose them, they let +her go, stepped out of her into their canoes, and made signs to us +to lay down our arms, having the appearance of being as perfectly +unconcerned as if they had done nothing amiss. This, though rather a +more daring attempt, was hardly equal to what they had meditated on +board the Discovery. The man who came and carried all his countrymen +from the Resolution to the other ship had first been on board of her, +where, after looking down all the hatchways, and seeing nobody but the +officer of the watch, and one or two more, he no doubt thought they +might plunder her with ease, especially as she lay at some distance +from us. It was unquestionably with this view, that they all repaired +to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board; drew +their knives; made signs to the officer and people on deck to keep +off; and began to look about them for plunder. The first thing +they met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they threw +over-board to those of their party who had remained in the canoes. +Before they had time to find another object that pleased their +fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck armed with +cutlasses. On seeing this, the whole company of plunderers sneaked off +into their canoes, with as much deliberation and indifference as they +had given up the boat; and they were observed describing to those who +had not been on board, how much longer the knives of the ship's crew +were than their own. It was at this time, that my boat was on the +sounding duty, which they must have seen; for they proceeded directly +for her, after their disappointment at the Discovery. I have not the +least doubt, that their visiting us so very early in the morning was +with a view to plunder; on a supposition, that they should find every +body asleep. + +May we not, from these circumstances, reasonably infer, that these +people are unacquainted with fire-arms? For, certainly, if they +had known any thing of their effect, they never would have dared to +attempt taking a boat from under ship's guns, in the face of above a +hundred men; for most of my people were looking at them, at the very +instant they made the attempt. However, after all these tricks, we +had the good fortune to leave them as ignorant, in this respect, as we +found them. For they neither heard nor saw a musquet fired, unless at +birds. + +Just as we were going to weigh the anchor, to proceed farther up the +bay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as before; so that we +were obliged to veer away the cable again, and lay fast. Toward the +evening, finding that the gale did not moderate, and that it might be +some time before an opportunity offered to get higher up, I came to a +resolution to heel the ship where we were; and, with this view, moored +her with a kedge-anchor and hawser. In heaving the anchor out of the +boat, one of the seamen, either through ignorance or carelessness, or +both, was carried over-board by the buoy-rope, and followed the +anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable, that, in this very critical +situation, he had presence of mind to disengage himself, and come up +to the surface of the water, where he was taken up, with one of his +legs fractured in a dangerous manner. + +Early the next morning, we gave the ship a good heel to port, in order +to come at, and stop the leak. On ripping off the sheathing, it was +found to be in the seams, which were very open, both in and under the +wale, and, in several places, not a bit of oakum in them. While the +carpenters were making good these defects, we filled all our empty +water-casks, at a stream hard by the ship. The wind was now moderate, +but the weather was thick and hazy, with rain. + +The natives, who left us the preceding day, when the bad weather came +on, paid us another visit this morning. Those who came first, were +in small canoes; others, afterward, arrived in large boats; in one of +which were twenty women, and one man, besides children. + +In the evening of the 16th, the weather cleared up, and we then found +ourselves surrounded on every side by land. Our station was on +the east side of the Sound, in a place, which in the chart is +distinguished by the name of _Snug Corner Bay_. And a very snug place +it is. I went, accompanied by some of the officers, to view the head +of it, and we found that it was sheltered from all winds, with a depth +of water from even to three fathoms over a muddy bottom. The land, +near the shore, is low, part clear, and part wooded. The clear ground +was covered, two or three feet thick, with snow; but very little lay +in the woods. The very summits of the neighbouring hills were covered +with wood; but those farther inland seemed to be naked rocks, buried +in snow. + +The leak being stopped, and the sheathing made good over it, at four +o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we weighed, and steered to the +north-westward, with a light breeze at E.N.E.; thinking, if there +should be any passage to the north through this inlet, that it must be +in that direction. Soon after we were under sail, the natives, in +both great and small canoes, paid us another visit, which gave us +an additional opportunity of forming a more perfect idea of their +persons, dress, and other particulars, which shall be afterward +described. Our visitors seemed to have no other business, but to +gratify their curiosity; for they entered into no sort of traffic with +us. After we had got over to the N.W. point of the arm in which we had +anchored, we found that the flood-tide came into the inlet through the +same channel by which we had entered. Although this circumstance did +not make wholly against a passage, it was, however, nothing in its +favour. After passing the point above mentioned, we met with a good +deal of foul ground, and many sunken rocks, even out in the middle of +the channel, which is here five or six leagues wide. At this time the +wind failed us, and was succeeded by calms and light airs from every +direction; so that we had some trouble to extricate ourselves from the +threatening danger. At length, about one o'clock, with the assistance +of our boats, we got to an anchor, under the eastern shore, in +thirteen fathoms water, and about four leagues to the north of our +last station. In the morning, the weather had been very hazy; but it +afterward cleared up, so as to give us a distinct view of all the land +round us, particularly to the northward, where it seemed to close. +This left us but little hopes of finding a passage that way, or, +indeed, in any other direction, without putting out again to sea. + +To enable me to form a better judgment, I dispatched Mr Gore, with +two armed boats, to examine the northern arm; and the master, with two +other boats, to examine another arm that seemed to take an easterly +direction. Late in the evening they both returned. The master +reported, that the arm he had been sent to, communicated with that +from which we had last come; and that one side of it was only formed +by a group of islands. Mr Gore informed me, that he had seen the +entrance of an arm, which, he was of opinion, extended a long way to +the N.E.; and that, probably by it, a passage might be found. On the +other hand, Mr Roberts, one of the mates, whom I had sent with Mr Gore +to sketch out the parts they had examined, was of opinion, that they +saw the head of this arm. The disagreement of these two opinions, +and the circumstance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering the +Sound from the south, rendered the existence of a passage this way +very doubtful. And, as the wind in the morning had become favourable +for getting out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching +for a passage in a place that promised so little success. Besides +this, I considered, that, if the land on the west should prove to be +islands, agreeably to the late Russian Discoveries,[10] we could +not fail of getting far enough to the north, and that in good time, +provided we did not lose the season in searching places, where a +passage was not only doubtful, but improbable. We were now upward +of five hundred and twenty leagues to the westward of any part of +Baffin's, or of Hudson's Bay. And whatever passage there may be, it +must be, or, at least, part of it, must lie to the north of latitude +72°.[11] Who could expect to find a passage or strait of such extent? + +[Footnote 10: Captain Cook seems to take his ideas of these from Mr +Stæhlin's map, prefixed to the account of the Northern Archipelago, +published by Dr Maty. London, 1774.--D.] + +[Footnote 11: On what evidence Captain Cook formed his judgment as to +this, is mentioned in the Introduction.--D.] + +Having thus taken my resolution, next morning at three o'clock, we +weighed, and with a gentle breeze at north, proceeded to the southward +down the inlet, and met with the same broken ground, as on the +preceding day. However, we soon extricated ourselves from it, and +afterward never struck ground with a line of forty fathoms. Another +passage into this inlet was now discovered to the S.W. of that by +which we came in, which enabled us to shorten our way out to sea. It +is separated from the other by an island, extending eighteen leagues +in the direction of N.E. and S.W.; to which I gave the name of +_Montagu Island_. + +In this S.W. channel are several islands. Those that lie in the +entrance, next the open sea, are high and rocky. But those within are +low ones; and being entirely free from snow, and covered with wood and +verdure, on this account they were called _Green Islands_. + +At two in the afternoon, the wind veered to the S.W., and S.W. by S., +which reduced us to the necessity of plying. I first stretched over +to within two miles of the eastern, shore, and tacked in fifty-three +fathoms water. In standing back to Montagu Island, we discovered a +ledge of rocks, some above, and others under water, lying three miles +to the north of the northern point of Green Islands. Afterward, some +others were seen in the middle of the channel farther out than the +islands. These rocks made unsafe plying in the night (though not very +dark); and, for that reason, we spent it standing off and on, under +Montagu Island; for the depth of water was too great to come to an +anchor. + +At day-break, the next morning, the wind came more favourable, and we +steered for the channel between Montagu Island and the Green Islands, +which is between two and three leagues broad, and from thirty-four to +seventeen fathoms deep. We had but little wind all the day, and, at +eight o'clock in the evening, it was a dead calm, when we anchored in +twenty-one fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, about two miles from +the shore of Montagu's Island. The calm continued till ten o'clock the +next morning, when, it was succeeded by a small breeze from the north, +with which we weighed; and, by six o'clock in the evening, we were +again in the open sea, and found the coast trending west by south, as +far as the eye could reach. + + +SECTION V. + +_The Inlet called Prince William's Sound.--Its Extent.--Persons of +the Inhabitants described.--Their Dress.--Incision of the +Under-lip.--Various other Ornaments.--Their Boats.--Weapons, fishing, +and hunting Instruments.--Utensils.--Tools.--Uses Iron is +applied to.--Food.--Language, and a Specimen of +it.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Iron and Beads, whence received._ + +To the inlet, which we had now left, I gave the name of _Prince +William's Sound_. To judge of this Sound from what we saw of it, +it occupies, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of +longitude, exclusive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is +not known. + +The natives, who came to make us several visits while we were in the +Sound, were generally not above the common height, though many of them +were under it. They were square, or strongly-chested, and the most +disproportioned part of their body seemed to be their heads, which +were very large, with thick, short necks, and large, broad or +spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though +not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the size of their faces; and +their noses had full, round points, hooked, or turned up at the tip. +Their teeth were broad, white, equal in size, and evenly set. Their +hair was black, thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in +general, thin, or wanting; but the hairs about the lips of those who +have them, were stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown colour. +And several of the elderly men had even large and thick, but straight +beards. + +Though, in general, they agree in the make of their persons, and +largeness of their heads, there is a considerable variety in their +features; but very few can be said to be of the handsome sort, though +their countenance commonly indicates a considerable share of vivacity, +good-nature, and frankness. And yet some of them had an air of +sullenness and reserve. Some of the women have agreeable faces; and +many are easily distinguishable from the men by their features, +which are more delicate; but this should be understood chiefly of the +youngest sort, or middle-aged. The complexion of some of the women, +and of the children, is white; but without any mixture of red. And +some of the men, who were seen naked, had rather a brownish or swarthy +cast, which could scarcely be the effect of any stain; for they do not +paint their bodies. + +Their common dress (for men, women, and children are cloathed alike), +is a kind of close frock, or rather robe; reaching generally to the +ancles, though sometimes only to the knees. At the upper part is a +hole just sufficient to admit the head, with sleeves that reach to the +wrist. These frocks are made of the skins of different animals; the +most common of which are those of the sea-otter, grey fox, racoon, and +pine-martin, with many of seal-skins, and, in general, they are worn +with the hairy side outward. Some also have these frocks made of the +skins of fowls, with only the down remaining on them, which they glue +on other substances. And we saw one or two woollen garments like those +of Nootka. At the seams, where the different skins are sewed together, +they are commonly ornamented with tassels or fringes of narrow thongs, +cut out of the same skins. A few have a kind of cape, or collar, and +some a hood; but the other is the most common form, and seems to be +their whole dress in good weather. When it rains, they put over this +another frock, ingeniously made from the intestines of whales, or some +other large animal, prepared so skilfully, as almost to resemble +our gold-beater's leaf. It is made to draw tight round the neck; its +sleeves reach as low as the wrist, round which they are tied with a +string; and its skirts, when they are in their canoes, are drawn over +the rim of the hole in which they sit, so that no water can enter. At +the same time, it keeps the men entirely dry upward. For no water can +penetrate through it, any more than through a bladder. It must be kept +continually moist or wet, otherwise it is apt to crack or break. +This, as well as the common frock made of the skins, bears a great +resemblance to the dress of the Greenlanders, as described by +Crantz.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. i. p. 136-138. The +reader will find in Crantz many very striking instances, in which the +Greenlanders, and Americans of Prince William's Sound, resemble each +other, besides those mentioned in this Section by Captain Cook. The +dress of the people of Prince William's Sound, as described by Captain +Cook, also agrees with that of the inhabitants of Schumagin's Islands, +discovered by Beering in 1741. Muller's words are, "Leur habillement +étoit de boyaux de baleines pour le haut du corps, et de peaux de +chiens-marins pour le bas."--_Découvertes des Russes_, p. 274.] + +In general, they do not cover their legs or feet; but a few have +a kind of skin-stockings, which reach half-way up the thigh; and +scarcely any of them are without mittens for the hands, made of +the skins of bears' paws. Those who wear any thing on their heads, +resembled, in this respect, our friends at Nootka, having high +truncated conic caps, made of straw, and sometimes of wood, resembling +a seal's head well painted. + +The men commonly wear the hair cropt round the neck and forehead; but +the women allow it to grow long, and most of them tie a small lock of +it on the crown, or a few club it behind, after our manner. Both sexes +have the ears perforated with several holes, about the outer and lower +part of the edge, in which they hang little bunches of beads, made of +the same tubulous shelly substance used for this purpose by those of +Nootka. The _septum_ of the nose is also perforated, through which +they frequently thrust the quill-feathers of small birds, or little +bending ornaments, made of the above shelly substance, strung on a +stiff string or cord, three or four inches long, which give them +a truly grotesque appearance. But the most uncommon and unsightly +ornamental fashion, adopted by some of both sexes, is their having the +under-lip slit, or cut, quite through, in the direction of the mouth, +a little below the swelling part. This incision, which is made even +in the sucking children, is often above two inches long, and either by +its natural retraction, when the wound is fresh, or by the repetition +of some artificial management, assumes the true shape of lips, and +becomes so large as to admit the tongue through. This happened to be +the case, when the first person having this incision was seen by +one of the seamen, who called out, that the man had two mouths, and, +indeed, it does not look unlike it. In this artificial mouth they +stick a flat narrow ornament, made chiefly out of a solid shell or +bone, cut into little narrow pieces, like small teeth, almost down to +the base or thickest part, which has a small projecting bit at each +end that supports it when put into the divided lip, the cut part then +appearing outward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into +separate holes, and then the ornament consists of as many distinct +shelly studs, whose points are pushed through these holes, and their +heads appear within the lip, as another row of teeth immediately under +their own. + +These are their native ornaments. But we found many beads of European +manufacture among them, chiefly of a pale-blue colour, which they hang +in their ears, about their caps, or join to their lip-ornaments, which +have a small hole drilled in each point to which they are fastened, +and others to them, till they hang sometimes as low as the point of +the chin. But, in this last case, they cannot remove them so easily; +for, as to their own lip-ornaments, they can take them out with their +tongue, or suck them in, at pleasure. They also wear bracelets of the +shelly-beads, or others of a cylindrical shape, made of a substance +like amber, with such also as are used in their ears and noses. And so +fond are they, in general, of ornament, that they stick any thing in +their perforated lip; one man appearing with two of our iron nails +projecting from it like prongs; and another endeavouring to put a +large brass button into it. + +The men frequently paint their faces of a bright red, and of a black +colour, and sometimes of a blue, or leaden colour, but not in any +regular figure; and the women, in some measure, endeavoured to imitate +them, by puncturing or staining the chin with black, that comes to a +point in each cheek; a practice very similar to which is in fashion +amongst the females of Greenland, as we learn from Crantz. Their +bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the scarcity of proper +materials; for all the colours which they brought to sell in bladders, +were in very small quantities. Upon the whole, I have no where seen +savages who take more pains than these people do, to ornament, or +rather to disfigure, their persons. + +Their boats or canoes are of two sorts, the one being large and open, +and the other small and covered. I mentioned already, that in one of +the large boats were twenty women, and one man, besides children. +I attentively examined and compared the construction of this, with +Crantz's description of what he calls the great, or women's boat in +Greenland, and found that they were built in the same manner, parts +like parts, with no other difference than in the form of the head and +stern; particularly of the first, which bears some resemblance to the +head of a whale. The framing is of slender pieces of wood, over which +the skins of seals, or of other larger sea-animals, are stretched, to +compose the outside. It appeared also, that the small canoes of these +people are made nearly of the same form, and of the same materials +with those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; at least the +difference is not material. Some of these, as I have before observed, +carry two men. They are broader in proportion to their length, than +those of the Esquimaux, and the head or fore-part curves somewhat like +the head of a violin. + +The weapons, and instruments for fishing and hunting, are the very +same that are made use of by the Esquimaux and Greenlanders; and it +is unnecessary to be particular in my account of them, as they are all +very accurately described by Crantz. I did not see a single one with +these people that he has not mentioned, nor has he mentioned, one that +they have not. For defensive armour they have a kind of jacket, or +coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound together with sinews, which +makes it quite flexible, though so close as not to admit an arrow or +dart. It only covers the trunk of the body, and may not be improperly +compared to a woman's stays. + +As none of these people lived in the bay where we anchored, or where +any of us landed, we saw none of their habitations, and I had not time +to look after them. Of their domestic utensils, they brought in their +boats some round and oval shallow dishes of wood, and others of a +cylindrical shape much deeper. The sides were made of one piece, bent +round, like our chip-boxes, though thick, neatly fastened with thongs, +and the bottoms fixed in with small wooden pegs. Others were smaller, +and of a more elegant shape, somewhat resembling a large oval +butterboat, without a handle, but more shallow, made from a piece of +wood, or horny substance. These last were sometimes neatly carved. +They had many little square bags, made of the same gut with their +outer frocks, neatly ornamented with very minute red feathers +interwoven with it, in which were contained some very fine sinews, and +bundles of small cord, made from them, most ingeniously plaited. They +also brought many chequered baskets, so closely wrought as to hold +water; some wooden models of their canoes; a good many little images, +four or five inches long, either of wood, or stuffed, which were +covered with a bit of fur, and ornamented with pieces of small quill +feathers, in imitation of their shelly beads, with hair fixed on +their heads. Whether these might be mere toys for children, or held +in veneration, as representing their deceased friends, and applied to +some superstitious purpose, we could not determine. But they have many +instruments made of two or three hoops, or concentric pieces of wood, +with a cross-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To these are +fixed a great number of dried barnacle-shells, with threads, which +serve as a rattle, and make a loud noise; when they shake them. This +contrivance seems to be a substitute for the rattling-bird at Nootka; +and perhaps both of them are employed on the same occasions.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The rattling-ball found by Steller, who attended Beering +in 1741, at no great distance from this Sound, seems to be for a +similar use. See Muller, p, 256.--D.] + +With what tools they make their wooden utensils, frames of boats, and +other things, is uncertain; as the only one seen amongst them was a +kind of stone-adze, made almost after the manner of those of Otaheite, +and the other islands of the South Sea. They have a great many iron +knives; some of which are straight, others a little curved, and some +very small ones, fixed in pretty long handles, with the blades bent +upward, like some of our shoe-makers' instruments. But they have still +knives of another sort, which are sometimes near two feet long, shaped +almost like a dagger, with a ridge in the middle. These they wear in +sheaths of skins, hung by a thong round the neck, under their robe, +and they are, probably, only used as weapons; the other knives being +apparently applied to other purposes. Every thing they have, however, +is as well and ingeniously made, as if they were furnished with the +most complete tool-chest; and their sewing, plaiting of sinews, and +small work on their little bags, may be put in competition with the +most delicate manufactures found in any part of the known world. In +short, considering the otherwise uncivilized or rude slate in +which these people are, their northern situation, amidst a country +perpetually covered with snow, and the wretched materials they have +to work with, it appears, that their invention and dexterity, in all +manual works, are at least equal to that of any other nation. + +The food which we saw them eat, was dried fish, and the flesh of some +animal, either broiled or roasted. Some of the latter that was bought, +seemed to be bear's flesh, but with a fishy taste. They also eat +the larger sort of fern root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked, or +dressed in some other way; and some of our people saw them eat +freely of a substance which they supposed to be the inner part of the +pine-bark. Their drink is most probably water; for in their boats they +brought snow in the wooden vessels, which they swallowed by mouthfuls. +Perhaps it could be carried with less trouble in these open vessels, +than water itself. Their method of eating seems decent and cleanly; +for they always took care to separate any dirt that might adhere to +their victuals. And though they sometimes did eat the raw fat of some +sea-animal, they cut it carefully into mouthfuls, with their small +knives. The same might be said of their persons, which, to appearance, +were always clean and decent, without grease or dirt; and the wooden +vessels, in which their victuals are probably put, were kept in +excellent order, as well as their boats, which were neat, and free +from lumber. + +Their language seems difficult to be understood at first; not from any +indistinctness or confusion in their words and sounds, but from the +various significations they have. For they appeared to use the very +same word, frequently, on very different occasions; though doubtless +this might, if our intercourse had been of longer duration, have been +found to be a mistake on our side. The only words I could obtain, and +for them I am indebted to Mr Anderson,[3] were those that follow; the +first of which was also used at Nootka, in the same sense; though +we could not trace an affinity between the two dialects in any other +instance. + +[Footnote 3: We are also indebted to him for many remarks in +this Section, interwoven with those of Captain Cook, as throwing +considerable light on many parts of his journal.--D.] + + Akashou, _What's the name of that?_ + Namuk, _An ornament for the ear._ + Lukluk, _A brown shaggy skin, perhaps a bear's._ + Aa, _Yes._ + Natooneshuk, _The skin of a sea-otter._ + Keeta, _Give me something._ + Naema, _Give me something in exchange_, or _barter_. + + / _Of_, or _belonging to me.--Will_ + Ooonaka, { _you barter for this that belongs_ + \ _to me_? + + Manaka, + Ahleu, _A spear._ + Weena, _or_ Veena, _Stranger--calling to one._ + Keelashuk, _Guts of which they make jackets._ + Tawuk, _Keep it._ + + / _A piece of white bear's skin_, or + Amilhtoo, { _perhaps the hair that covered_ + \ _it._ + + Whaehai, _Shall I keep it? do you give it me?_ + Yaut, _I'll go_; or _shall I go?_ + Chilke, _One._ + Taiha, _Two._ + Tokke, _Three._ + (Tinke,) + Chukelo,[4] _Four?_ + Koeheene, _Five?_ + Takulai, _Six?_ + Keichilho, _Seven?_ + Klu, _or_ Kliew, _Eight?_ + +[Footnote 4: With regard to these numerals, Mr Anderson observes, +that the words corresponding to ours, are not certain after passing +_three_; and therefore he marks those, about whose position he is +doubtful, with a point of interrogation.--D.] + +As to the animals of this part of the continent, the same must be +understood as of those at Nootka; that is, that the knowledge we have +of them is entirely taken from the skins which the natives brought to +sell. These were chiefly of seals; a few foxes; the whitish cat, or +_lynx_; common and pine-martins; small ermines; bears; racoons; and +sea-otters. Of these, the most common were the martin, racoon, and +sea-otter skins, which composed the ordinary dress of the natives; but +the skins of the first, which in general were of a much lighter brown +than those at Nootka, were far superior to them in fineness; whereas +the last, which, as well as the martins, were far more plentiful than +at Nootka, seemed greatly inferior in the fineness and thickness of +their fur, though they greatly exceeded them in size, and were almost +all of the glossy black sort, which is doubtless the colour most +esteemed in those skins. Bear and seal skins were also pretty common, +and the last were in general white, very beautifully spotted with +black, or sometimes simply white; and many of the bears here were of a +brown, or sooty colour. + +Besides these animals, which were all seen at Nootka, there are some +others in this place which we did not find there; such as the white +bear, of whose skins the natives brought several pieces, and some +entire skins of cubs, from which their size could not be determined. +We also found the wolverene, or quickhatch, which had very bright +colours; a larger sort of ermine than the common one, which is the +same as at Nootka, varied with a brown colour, and with scarcely any +black on its tail. The natives also brought the skin of the head of +some very large animal; but it could not be positively determined what +it was; though, from the colour and shagginess of the hair, and its +unlikeness to any land animal, we judged it might probably be that of +the large male ursine seal, or sea-bear. But one of the most beautiful +skins, and which seems peculiar to this place, as we never saw it +before, is that of a small animal about ten inches long, of a brown +or rusty colour on the back, with a great number of obscure whitish +specks, and the sides of a blueish ash colour, also with a few of +these specks. The tail is not above a third of the length, of its +body, and is covered with hair of a whitish colour at the edges. It +is no doubt the same with those called spotted field mice, by Mr +Stæhlin,[5] in his short account of the New Northern Archipelago. But +whether they be really of the mouse kind, or a squirrel, we could not +tell, for want of perfect skins; though Mr Anderson was inclined +to think that it is the same animal described under the name of the +_Casan_ marmot, by Mr Pennant. The number of skins we found here, +points out the great plenty of these several animals just mentioned; +but it is remarkable, that we neither saw the skins of the mouse nor +of the common deer. + +[Footnote 5: In his account of Kodjak, p. 32 and 34.] + +Of the birds mentioned at Nootka, we found here only the white-headed +eagle, the shag, the _alcyon_, or great kingfisher, which had very +fine bright colours, and the humming-bird, which came frequently and +flew about the ship, while at anchor, though it can scarcely live here +in the winter, which must be very severe. The water-fowls were geese, +a small sort of duck, almost like that mentioned at Kerguelen's Land; +another sort which none of us knew; and some of the black seapyes, +with red bills, which we found at Van Diemen's Land and New Zealand. +Some of the people who went on shore, killed a grouse, a snipe, and +some plover. But though, upon the whole, the water-fowls were pretty +numerous, especially the ducks and geese, which frequent the shores, +they were so shy, that it was scarcely possible to get within shot; so +that we obtained a very small supply of them as refreshment. The duck +mentioned above is as large as the common wild-duck, of a deep black +colour, with a short pointed tail, and red feet. The bill is white, +tinged with red toward the point, and has a large black spot, almost +square, near its base, on each side, where it is also enlarged or +distended. And on the forehead is a large triangular while spot, with +one still larger on the back part of the neck. The female has much +duller colours, and none of the ornaments of the bill, except the two +black spots, which are obscure. + +There is likewise a species of diver here, which seems peculiar to +the place. It is about the size of a partridge, has a short, black, +compressed bill, with the head and upper part of the neck of a brown +black, the rest of a deep brown, obscurely waved with black, except +the under-part, which is entirely of a blackish cast, very minutely +varied with white; the other (perhaps the female) is blacker above, +and whiter below. A small land bird, of the finch kind, about the size +of a yellow-hammer, was also found; but was suspected to be one +of those which change their colour with the season, and with their +migrations. At this time, it was of a dusky brown colour, with a +reddish tail, and the supposed male had a large yellow spot on the +crown of the head, with some varied black on the upper part of the +neck; but the last was on the breast of the female. + +The only fish we got were some torsk and halibut, which were chiefly +brought by the natives to sell; and we caught a few sculpins about +the ship, with some purplish star-fish, that had seventeen or eighteen +rays. The rocks were observed to be almost destitute of shell-fish; +and the only other animal of this tribe seen, was a red crab, covered +with spines of a very large size. + +The metals we saw were copper and iron; both which, particularly the +latter, were in such plenty, as to constitute the points of most of +the arrows and lances. The ores, with which they painted themselves, +were a red, brittle, unctuous ochre, or iron-ore, not much unlike +cinnabar in colour; a bright blue pigment, which we did not procure; +and black-lead. Each of these seems to be very scarce, as they brought +very small quantities of the first and last, and seemed to keep them +with great care. + +Few vegetables of any kind were seen; and the trees which chiefly grew +here, were the Canadian and spruce-pine, and some of them tolerably +large. + +The beads and iron found amongst these people, left no room to doubt, +that they must have received them from some civilized nation. We were +pretty certain, from circumstances already mentioned, that we were the +first Europeans with whom they had ever communicated directly; and +it remains only to be decided, from what quarter they had got our +manufactures by intermediate conveyance. And there cannot be the +least doubt of their having received these articles, through the +intervention of the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the +settlements on the Canadian lakes; unless it can be supposed, (which, +however, is less likely,) that the Russian traders, from Kamtschatka, +have already extended their traffic thus far; or at least that the +natives of their most easterly fox islands communicate along the coast +with those of Prince William's Sound.[6] + +[Footnote 6: There is a circumstance mentioned by Muller, in his +account of Beering's voyage to the coast of America in 1741, which +seems to decide this question. His people found iron at the Schumagin +Islands, as may be fairly presumed from the following quotation: +"Un seul homme avoit un couteau pendu à sa ceinture, qui parut fort +singulier à nos gens par sa figure. Il étoit long de huit pouces, et +fort épais, et large à l'endroit où devoit être la pointe. On ne pent +savoir quel étoit l'usage de cet outil." _Découvertes des Russes_, p. +274. + +If there was iron amongst the natives on this part of the American +coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and before there +was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka, what reason +can there be to make the least doubt of the people of Prince William's +Sound, as well as those of Schumagin's Islands, having got this +metal from the only probable source, the European settlements on the +north-east coast of this continent?--D.] + +As to the copper, these people seem to procure it themselves, or at +most it passes through few hands to them; for they used to express its +being in a sufficient quantity amongst them, when they offered any +to barter, by pointing to their weapons; as if to say, that having so +much of this metal of their own, they wanted no more. + +It is, however, remarkable, if the inhabitants of this Sound be +supplied with European articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to +the east coast, that they should, in return, never have given to +the more inland Indians any of their sea-otter skins, which would +certainly have been seen, some time or other, about Hudson's Bay. +But, as far as I know, that is not the case; and the only method of +accounting for this, must be by taking into consideration the very +great distance, which, though it might not prevent European goods +coming so far, as being so uncommon, might prevent the skins, which +are a common article, from passing through more than two or three +different tribes, who might use them for their own cloathing, and +send others, which they esteemed less valuable, as being of their own +animals, eastward, till they reach the traders from Europe. + + +SECTION VI. + +_Progress along the Coast.--Cape Elizabeth.--Cape St +Hermogenes.--Accounts of Beering's Voyage very defective.--Point +Banks--Cape Douglas.--Cape Bede.--Mount St Augustin.--Hopes of finding +a Passage up an Inlet.--The Ships proceed up it.--Indubitable Marks +of its being a River.--Named Cook's River.--The Ships return down +it.--Various Visits from the Natives.--Lieutenant King lands, and +takes Possession of the Country.--His Report.--The Resolution +runs aground on a Shoal.--Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's +River.--The considerable Tides in it accounted for._ + +After leaving Prince William's Sound, I steered to the S.W., with a +gentle breeze at N.N.E.; which, at four o'clock, the next morning, +was succeeded by a calm, and soon after, the calm was succeeded by +a breeze from S.W. This freshening, and veering to N.W., we still +continued to stretch to the S.W., and passed a lofty promontory, +situated in the latitude of 59° 10', and the longitude of 207° 45'. +As the discovery of it was connected with the Princess Elizabeth's +birth-day, I named it _Cape Elizabeth_. Beyond it we could see no +land; so that, at first, we were in hopes that it was the western +extremity of the continent; but not long after, we saw our mistake, +for fresh land appeared in sight, bearing W.S.W. + +The wind, by this time, had increased to a very strong gale, and +forced us to a good distance from the coast. In the afternoon of +the 22d, the gale abated, and we stood to the northward for Cape +Elizabeth, which at noon, the next day, bore W., ten leagues distant. +At the same time, a new land was seen, bearing S. 77° W., which was +supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth with the land we had seen to the +westward. + +The wind continued at W., and I stood to the southward till noon the +next day, when we were within three leagues of the coast which we had +discovered on the 23d. It here formed a point that bore W.N.W. At the +same time more land was seen extending to the southward, as far as +S.S.W., the whole being twelve or fifteen leagues distant. On it was +seen a ridge of mountains covered with snow, extending to the N.W., +behind the first land, which we judged to be an island, from the very +inconsiderable quantity of snow that lay upon it. This point of land +is situated in the latitude of 58° 15', and in the longitude of 207° +42'; and by what I can gather from the account of Beering's voyage, +and the chart that accompanies it in the English edition,[1] I +conclude, that it must be what he called Cape St Hermogenes. But the +account of that voyage is so very much abridged, and the chart so +extremely inaccurate, that it is hardly possible, either by the one or +by the other, or by comparing both together, to find out any one +place which that navigator either saw or touched at. Were I to form a +judgment of Beering's proceedings on this coast, I should suppose that +he fell in with the continent near Mount Fairweather. But I am by no +means certain, that the bay to which I have given his name, is the +place where he anchored. Nor do I know, that what I called Mount St +Elias, is the same conspicuous mountain to which he gave that name. +And as to his Cape St Elias, I am entirely at a loss to pronounce +where it lies.[2] + +[Footnote 1: Captain Cook means Muller's, of which a translation had +been published in London some time before be sailed.--D.] + +[Footnote 2: Mr Coxe, who has been at considerable pains in +endeavouring to reconcile the accounts of Muller and Steller, and in +comparing them with the journals of Cook and Vancouver, is induced to +conjecture that Beering first discovered the continent of America +in the neighbourhood of Kaye's Island, and not where Captain Cook +assigns. This is a very probable opinion, as might easily be shewn, +but not without anticipating matter that belongs to another voyage. +It is enough just now to hint at the circumstance, lest the remarks of +Cook, always well entitled to respect, should be too much confided in +by the reader. No man's judgment is to be disparaged, because of an +error committed, where so little information has been given for its +guidance.--E.] + +On the N.E. side of Cape St Hermogenes, the coast turned toward the +N.W., and appeared to be wholly unconnected with the land seen by +us the preceding day. In the chart above mentioned, there is here +a space, where Beering is supposed to have seen no land. This also +favoured the later account published by Mr Stæhlin, who makes Cape St +Hermogenes, and all the land that Beering discovered to the S.W. of +it, to be a cluster of islands; placing St Hermogenes amongst those +which are destitute of wood. What we now saw seemed to confirm this, +and every circumstance inspired us with hopes of finding here a +passage northward, without being obliged to proceed any farther to the +S.W. + +We were detained off the Cape, by variable light airs and calms, till +two o'clock the next morning, when a breeze springing up at N.E. we +steered N.N.W. along the coast; and soon found the land of Cape St +Hermogenes to be an island, about six leagues in circuit, separated +from the adjacent coast by a channel only one league broad. A league +and a half to the north of this island, lie some rocks above water; on +the N.E. side of which we had from thirty to twenty fathoms. + +At noon, the island of St Hermogenes bore S. 1/2 E. eight leagues +distant; and the land to the N.W. of it extended from S. 1/2 W. to +near W. In this last direction it ended in a low point, now five +leagues distant, which was called _Point Banks_. The latitude of the +ship, at this time, was 58° 41', and its longitude 207° 44'. In this +situation, the land, which was supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth with +this S.W. land, was in sight, bearing N.W. 1/2 N. I steered directly +for it; and, on a nearer approach, found it to be a group of high +islands and rocks, entirely unconnected with any other land. They +obtained the name of _Barren Isles_, from their very naked appearance. +Their situation is in the latitude of 59°, and in a line with Cape +Elizabeth and Point Banks; three leagues distant from the former, and +five from the latter. + +I intended going through one of the channels that divide these +islands; but meeting with a strong current setting against us, I +bore up, and went to the leeward of them all. Toward the evening, the +weather, which had been hazy all day, cleared up, and we got sight +of a very lofty promontory, whose elevated summit, forming two +exceedingly high mountains, was seen above the clouds. This promontory +I named _Cape Douglas_, in honour of my very good friend, Dr Douglas, +canon of Windsor.[3] It is situated in the latitude of 58° 56', and +in the longitude of 206° 10'; ten leagues to the westward of Barren +Isles, and twelve from Point Banks, in the direction of N.W. by W. 1/2 +W. + +[Footnote 3: The reader of course is aware, that this gentleman, +afterwards successively Bishop of Carlisle and Salisbury, is the +person to whom we are indebted for the original edition of this +voyage, as we have elsewhere mentioned.--E.] + +Between this point and Cape Douglas, the coast seemed to form a large +and deep bay; which, from some smoke that had been seen on Point +Banks, obtained the name of _Smokey Bay_. + +At day-break, the next morning, being the 26th, having got to the +northward of the Barren Isles, we discovered more land, extending +from Cape Douglas to the north. It formed a chain of mountains of vast +height; one of which, far more conspicuous than the rest, was named +_Mount St Augustin_. The discovery of this land did not discourage +us, as it was supposed to be wholly unconnected with the land of Cape +Elizabeth. For, in a N.N.E. direction, the sight was unlimited by +every thing but the horizon. We also thought that there was a passage +to the N.W., between, Cape Douglas and Mount St Augustin. In short, +it was imagined, that the land on our larboard, to the N. of Cape +Douglas, was composed of a group of islands, disjoined by so many +channels, any one of which we might make use of according as the wind +should serve. + +With these flattering ideas, having a fresh-gale at N.N.E., we stood +to the N.W. till eight o'clock, when we clearly saw, that what we had +taken for islands were summits of mountains, every where connected by +lower land, which the haziness of the horizon had prevented us from +seeing at a greater distance. This land was every where covered with +snow, from the tops of the hills down to the very sea-beach; and had +every other appearance of being part of a great continent. I was now +fully persuaded that I should find no passage by this inlet; and my +persevering in the search of it here, was more to satisfy other people +than to confirm my own opinion. + +At this time Mount St Augustin bore N., 40 W., three or four +leagues distant. This mountain is of a conical figure, and of very +considerable height; but it remains undetermined whether it be an +island or part of the continent. Finding that nothing could be done +to the W., we tacked, and stood over to Cape Elizabeth, under which +we fetched at half-past five in the afternoon. On the N. side of Cape +Elizabeth, between it and a lofty promontory, named Cape Bede,[4] is a +bay, in the bottom of which there appeared to be two snug harbours. We +stood well into this bay, where we might have anchored in twenty-three +fathoms water; but as I had no such view, we tacked and stood to the +westward, with the wind at N. a very strong gale, attended by rain, +and thick hazy weather. + +[Footnote 4: In naming this and Mount St Augustin, Captain Cook was +directed by our Calendar.--D.] + +The next morning the gale abated; but the same weather continued till +three o'clock in the afternoon, when it cleared up. Cape Douglas bore +S.W. by W.; Mount St Augustin W. 1/2 S.; and Cape Bede S., 15° E., +five leagues distant. In this situation, the depth of water was forty +fathoms, over a rocky bottom. From Cape Bede, the coast trended +N.E. by E. with a chain of mountains inland, extending in the same +direction. The land on the coast was woody; and there seemed to be +no deficiency of harbours. But, what was not much in our favour, we +discovered low land in the middle of the inlet, extending from N.N.E. +to N.E. by E. 1/2 E. However, as this was supposed to be an island, +it did not discourage us. About this time we got a light breeze +southerly, and I steered to the westward of this low land; nothing +appeared to obstruct us in that direction. Our soundings during the +night were from thirty to twenty-five fathoms. + +On the 28th, in the morning, having but very little wind, and +observing the ship to drive to the southward, in order to stop her, I +dropped a kedge-anchor, with an eight-inch hawser bent to it. But, +in bringing the ship up, the hawser parted near the inner end; and we +lost both it and the anchor. For although we brought the ship up with +one of the bowers, and spent most of the day in sweeping for them, it +was to no effect. By an observation, we found our station to be in the +latitude of 59° 51'; the low land above mentioned extended from N.E. +to S., 75° E., the nearest part two leagues distant. The land on the +western shore was about seven leagues distant, and extended from S. +35° W., to N. 7° E.; so that the extent of the inlet was now reduced +to three points and a half of the compass; that is, from N. 1/2 E. +to N.E. Between these two points no land was to be seen. Here was a +strong tide setting to the southward out of the inlet. It was the ebb, +and ran between three and four knots in an hour; and it was low water +at ten o'clock. A good deal of sea-weed, and some drift-wood, were +carried out with the tide. The water, too, had become thick like that +in rivers; but we were encouraged to proceed, by finding it as salt +at low water as the ocean. The strength of the flood-tide was three +knots, and the stream ran up till four in the afternoon. + +As it continued calm all day, I did not move till eight o'clock in the +evening; when, with a light breeze at E., we weighed, and stood to +the N., up the inlet. We had not been long under sail, before the wind +veered to the N., increasing to a fresh gale, and blowing in squalls, +with rain. This did not, however, hinder us from plying up as long +as the flood continued; which was till near five o'clock the next +morning. We had soundings from thirty-five to twenty-four fathoms. In +this last depth we anchored about two leagues from the eastern shore, +in the latitude of 60° 8'; some low land, that we judged to be an +island, lying under the western shore, extended from N. 1/2 W. to N.W. +by N., distant three or four leagues. + +The weather had how become fair and tolerably clear, so that we +could see any land that might lie within our horizon; and in a N.N.E. +direction, no land, nor any thing to obstruct our progress, was +visible. But on each side was a ridge of mountains, rising one behind +another, without the least separation. I judged it to be low water, by +the shore, about ten o'clock; but the ebb ran down till near noon. +The strength of it was four knots and a half; and it fell, upon a +perpendicular, ten feet three inches, that is; while we lay at anchor; +so that there is reason to believe that this was not the greatest +fall. On the eastern shore we now saw two columns of smoke; a sure +sign that there were inhabitants. + +At one in the afternoon we weighed, and plied up under double-reefed +top-sails and courses, having a very strong gale at N.N.E. nearly +right down the inlet. We stretched over to the western shore, and +fetched within two leagues of the south end of the low land, or island +before mentioned, under which I intended to have taken shelter till +the gale should cease. But falling suddenly into twelve fathoms water, +from upward of forty, and seeing the appearance of a shoal ahead, +spitting out from the low land, I tacked, and stretched back to the +eastward, and anchored under that shore in nineteen fathoms water, +over a bottom of small pebble stones. + +Between one and two in the morning of the 30th, we weighed again with +the first of the flood, the gale having, by this time quite abated, +but still continuing contrary; so that we plied up till near seven +o'clock, when the tide being done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, +under the same shore as before. The N.W. part of it, forming a bluff +point, bore N., 20° E., two leagues distant; a point on the other +shore opposite to it, and nearly of the same height, bore N., 36° W.; +our latitude, by observation, 60° 37'. + +About noon, two canoes, with a man in each, came off to the ship from +near the place where we had seen the smoke the preceding day. They +laboured very hard in paddling across the strong tide, and hesitated +a little before they would come quite close; but upon signs being +made to them, they approached. One of them talked a great deal to no +purpose; for we did not understand a word he said. He kept pointing +to the shore, which we interpreted to be an invitation to go thither. +They accepted a few trifles from me, which I conveyed to them from the +quarter-gallery. These men, in every respect, resembled the people we +had met with in Prince William's Sound, as to their persons and dress. +Their canoes were also of the same construction. One of our visitors +had his face painted jet black, and seemed to have no beard; but the +other, who was more elderly, had no paint, and a considerable beard, +with a visage much like the common sort of the Prince William's +people. There was also smoke seen upon the flat western shore this +day, from whence we may infer that these lower spots and islands are +the only inhabited places. + +When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes left us. I stood +over to the western shore, with a fresh gale at N.N.E., and fetched +under the point above-mentioned. This, with the other on the opposite +shore, contracted the channel to the breadth of four leagues. Through +this channel ran a prodigious tide. It looked frightful to us, who +could not tell whether the agitation of the water was occasioned by +the stream, or by the breaking of the waves against rocks or sands. As +we met with no shoal, it was concluded to be the former; but, in the +end, we found ourselves mistaken. I now kept the western shore aboard, +it appearing to be the safest. Near the shore we had a depth of +thirteen fathoms; and two or three miles off, forty and upwards. At +eight in the evening, we anchored under a point of land which bore +N.E., three leagues distant, in fifteen fathoms water. Here we lay +during the ebb, which ran near five knots in the hour. + +Until we got thus far, the water had retained the same degree of +saltness at low as at high water; and at both periods was as salt as +that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river displayed themselves. +The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowest, was found to be very +considerably fresher than any we had hitherto tasted; insomuch that +I was convinced that we were in a large river, and not in a strait, +communicating with the northern seas. But as we had proceeded thus +far, I was desirous of having stronger proofs; and therefore weighed +with the next flood in the morning of the 31st, and plied higher up, +or rather drove up with the tide; for we had but little wind. + +About eight o'clock, we were visited by several of the natives, in +one large and several small canoes. The latter carried only one person +each; and some had a paddle, with a blade at each end, after the +manner of the Esquimaux. In the large canoes, were men, women, and +children. Before they reached the ship, they displayed a leathern +frock, upon a long pole, as a sign, as we understood it, of their +peaceable intentions. This frock they conveyed into the ship, +in return for some trifles which I gave them. I could observe no +difference between the persons, dress, ornaments, and boats of these +people, and those of Prince William's Sound, except that the small +canoes were rather of a less size, and carried only one man. We +procured from them some of their fur dresses, made of the skins of +sea-otters, martins, hares, and other animals; a few of their darts, +and a small supply of salmon and halibut. In exchange for these they +took old clothes, beads, and pieces of iron. We found that they were +in possession of large iron knives, and of sky-blue glass beads, such +as we had found amongst the natives of Prince William's Sound. These +latter they seemed to value much, and consequently those which we now +gave them. But their inclination led them especially to ask for large +pieces of iron; which metal, if I was not much mistaken, they called +by the name of _goone_; though, like their neighbours in Prince +William's Sound, they seemed to have many significations to one word. +They evidently spoke the same language; as the words _keeta_, _naema_, +_oonaka_, and a few others of the most common we heard in that Sound, +were also frequently used by this new tribe. After spending about +two hours between the one ship and the other, they all retired to the +western shore. + +At nine o'clock, we came to an anchor, in sixteen fathoms water, about +two leagues from the west shore, and found the ebb already begun. At +its greatest strength, it ran only three knots in the hour, and fell, +upon a perpendicular, after we had anchored, twenty-one feet. The +weather was misty, with drizzling rain, and clear, by turns. At +the clear intervals, we saw an opening between the mountains on the +eastern shore, bearing east from the station of the ships, with low +land, which we supposed to be islands lying between us and the main +land. Low land was also seen to the northward, that seemed to extend +from the foot of the mountains on the one side to those on the other; +and at low water we perceived large shoals stretching out from this +low land, some of which were at no great distance from us. From these +appearances we were in some doubt whether the inlet did not take an +easterly direction through the above opening; or whether that opening +was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued its northern +direction through the low land now in sight. The continuation and +direction of the chain of mountains on each side of it, strongly +indicated the probability of the latter supposition. + +To determine this point, and to examine the shoals, I dispatched two +boats under the command of the master, and as soon as the flood-tide +made, followed with the ships; but as it was a dead calm, and the +tide strong, I anchored, after driving about ten miles in an east +direction. At the lowest of the preceding ebb, the water at the +surface, and for near a foot below it, was found to be perfectly +fresh; retaining, however, a considerable degree of saltness at +a greater depth. Besides this, we had now many other, and but too +evident proofs of being in a great river; such as low shores; very +thick and muddy water; large trees, and all manner of dirt and +rubbish, floating up and down with the tide. In the afternoon, the +natives, in several canoes, paid us another visit; and trafficked with +our people for some time, without ever giving us reason to accuse them +of any act of dishonesty. + +At two o'clock next morning, being the 1st of June, the master +returned, and reported, that he found the inlet, or rather river, +contracted to the breadth of one league, by low land on each side, +through which it took a northerly direction. He proceeded three +leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigable for the +largest ships, being from twenty to seventeen fathoms deep. The +least water, at a proper distance from the shore and shoals, was ten +fathoms; and this was before he entered the narrow part. While the ebb +or stream run down, the water was perfectly fresh; but after the flood +made it became brackish; and toward high water, very much so, even as +high up as he went. He landed upon an island, which lies between this +branch and the eastern one; and upon it saw some currant bushes, with +the fruit already set; and some other fruit-trees and bushes, unknown +to him. The soil appeared to be clay, mixed with sand. About three +leagues beyond the extent of his search, or to the northward of it, +he observed there was another separation in the eastern chain of +mountains, through which he supposed the river took a N.E. direction; +but it seemed rather more probable that this was only another branch, +and that the main channel kept its northern direction, between the two +ridges or chains of mountains before mentioned. He found that these +two ridges, as they extended to the north, inclined more and more to +each other, but never appeared to close; nor was any elevated land +seen between them, only low land, part woody, and part clear. + +All hopes of finding a passage were now given up. But as the ebb was +almost spent, and we could not return against the flood, I thought I +might as well take the advantage of the latter to get a nearer view +of the eastern branch; and by that means finally to determine, whether +the low land on the east side of the river was an island, as we had +supposed, or not. With this purpose in view, we weighed with the first +breeze of the flood, and having a faint breeze at N.E. stood over +for the eastern shore, with boats ahead, sounding. Our depth was from +twelve to five fathoms; the bottom a hard gravel, though the water was +exceedingly muddy. At eight o'clock a fresh breeze sprung up at east, +blowing in an opposite direction to our course; so that I despaired of +reaching the entrance of the river, to which we were plying up, before +high water. But thinking, that what the ships could not do might be +done by boats, I dispatched two, under the command of Lieutenant King, +to examine the tides, and to make such other observations as might +give us some insight into the nature of the river. + +At ten o'clock, finding the ebb began, I anchored in nine fathoms +water, over a gravelly bottom. Observing the tide to be too strong for +the boats to make head against it, I made a signal for them to return +on board, before they had got half way to the entrance of the river +they were sent to examine, which bore from us S. 80° E., three leagues +distant. The principal information gained by this tide's work, was +the determining that all the low land, which we had supposed to be +an island or islands, was one continued tract, from the banks of the +great river to the foot of the mountains, to which it joined; and that +it terminated at the south entrance of this eastern branch, which I +shall distinguish by the name of _River Turnagain_. On the north side +of this river, the low land again begins, and stretches out from the +foot of the mountains down to the banks of the great river; so that, +before the river Turnagain, it forms a large bay, on the south side +of which we were now at anchor, and where we had from twelve to five +fathoms, from half-flood to high water. + +After we had entered the bay, the flood set strong into the river +Turnagain, and ebb came out with still greater force; the water +falling, while we lay at anchor, twenty feet upon a perpendicular. +These circumstances convinced me, that no passage was to be expected +by this side-river anymore than by the main branch. However, as the +water, during the ebb, though very considerably fresher, had still a +strong degree of saltness, it is but reasonable to suppose, that both +these branches are navigable by ships much farther than we examined +them; and that by means of this river, and its several branches, a +very extensive inland communication lies open. We had traced it as +high as the latitude of 61° 30', and the longitude of 210°; which is +seventy leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the least +appearance of its source. + +If the discovery of this great river,[5] which promises to vie with +the most considerable ones already known to be capable of extensive +inland navigation, should prove of use either to the present or to any +future age, the time we spent in it ought to be the less regretted. +But to us, who had a much greater object in view, the delay thus +occasioned was an essential loss. The season was advancing apace. We +knew not how far we might have to proceed to the south; and we were +now convinced, that the continent of North America extended farther to +the west, than from the modern most reputable charts we had reason to +expect. This made the existence of a passage into Baffin's or Hudson's +Bay less probable, or at least shewed it to be of greater extent. +It was a satisfaction to me, however, to reflect, that, if I had not +examined this very considerable inlet, it would have been assumed, by +speculative fabricators of geography, as a fact, that it communicated +with the sea to the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the +east; and been marked, perhaps, on future maps of the world, with +greater precision, and more certain signs of reality, than the +invisible, because imaginary, Straits of de Fuca and de Fonte. + +[Footnote 5: Captain Cook having here left a blank which he had not +filled up with any particular name, Lord Sandwich directed, with the +greatest propriety, that it should be called _Cook's River_.--D. + +Some readers may require to be informed, that, for reasons mentioned +in the account of his voyage, Captain Vancouver has called it _Cook's +Inlet_.--E.] + +In the afternoon, I sent Mr King again, with two armed boats, with +orders to land on the north-eastern point of the low land, on the +south-east side of the river; there to display the flag; to take +possession of the country and river in his majesty's name; and to bury +in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin of the +year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships, +and the date of our discovery. In the mean time, the ships were got +under sail, in order to proceed down the river. The wind still blew +fresh, easterly; but a calm ensued, not long after we were under way; +and the flood-tide meeting us off the point where Mr King landed, (and +which thence got the name of _Point Possession_,) we were obliged to +drop anchor in six fathoms water, with the point bearing S., two miles +distant. + +When Mr King returned, he informed me, that as he approached the +shore, about twenty of the natives made their appearance, with their +arms extended; probably to express thus their peaceable disposition, +and to shew that they were without weapons. On Mr King's, and the +gentlemen with him, landing, with musquets in their hands, they seemed +alarmed, and made signs, expressive of their request to lay them down. +This was accordingly done; and then they suffered the gentlemen to +walk up to them, and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had +with them a few pieces of fresh salmon, and several dogs. Mr Law, +surgeon of the Discovery, who was one of the party, having bought +one of the latter, took it down toward the boat, and shot it dead, in +their sight. This seemed to surprise them exceedingly; and as if they +did not think themselves safe in such company, they walked away; but +it was soon after discovered, that their spears, and other weapons, +were hid in the bushes close behind them. Mr King also informed me, +that the ground was swampy, and the soil poor, light, and black. It +produced a few trees and shrubs; such as pines, alders, birch, and +willows; rose and currant bushes; and a little grass; but they saw not +a single plant in flower. + +We weighed anchor as soon as it was high water, and, with a faint +breeze, southerly, stood over to the west shore, where the return of +the flood obliged us to anchor early next morning. Soon after, several +large, and some small canoes, with natives, came off, who bartered +their skins; after which they sold their garments, till many of them +were quite naked. Amongst others, they brought a number of white hare +or rabbit skins; and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes; but there +were only two or three skins of otters. They also sold us some pieces +of salmon and halibut. They preferred iron to every thing else offered +to them in exchange. The lip ornaments did not seem so frequent +amongst them as at Prince William's Sound; but they had more of those +which pass through the nose, and in general these were also much +longer. They had, however, a greater quantity of a kind of white and +red embroidered work on some parts of their garments, and on other +things, such as their quivers and knife-cases. + +At half-past ten, we weighed with the first of the ebb, and having a +gentle breeze at south, plied down the river; in the doing of which, +by the inattention and neglect of the man at the lead, the Resolution +struck, and stuck fast on a bank, that lies nearly in the middle of +the river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points +before mentioned. This bank was, no doubt, the occasion of that very +strong rippling, or agitation of the stream, which we had observed +when turning up the river. There was not less than twelve feet depth +of water about the ship, at the lowest of the ebb, but other parts of +the bank were dry. As soon as the ship came aground, I made a signal +for the Discovery to anchor. She, as I afterward understood, had been +near ashore on the west side of the bank. As the flood-tide came +in, the ship floated off, soon after five o'clock in the afternoon, +without receiving the least damage, or giving us any trouble; and, +after standing over to the west shore into deep water, we anchored to +wait for the ebb, as the wind was still contrary. + +We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night; and, between +four and five next morning, when the tide was finished, once more cast +anchor, about two miles below the bluff point, on the west shore, in +nineteen fathoms water. A good many of the natives came off when we +were in this station, and attended upon us all the morning. Their +company was very acceptable; for they brought with them a large +quantity of very fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles +as we had to give them. Most of it was split ready for drying; and +several hundred weight of it was procured for the two ships. + +In the afternoon, the mountains, for the first time since our entering +the river, were clear of clouds; and we discovered a volcano in one +of those on the west side. It is in the latitude of 60° 23'; and it is +the first high mountain to the north of Mount St Augustin. The volcano +is on that side of it that is next the river, and not far from the +summit. It did not now make any striking appearance, emitting only a +white smoke, but no fire. + +The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it down the river; +and on the 5th, in the morning, coming to the place where we had lost +our kedge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without success. +Before we left this place, six canoes came off from the east shore; +some conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained at a +little distance from the ships, viewing them with a kind of silent +surprise, at least half an hour, without exchanging a single word +with us, or with one another. At length they took courage, and came +alongside; began to barter with our people; and did not leave us till +they had parted with every thing they brought with them, consisting +of a few skins and some salmon. And here it may not be improper to +remark, that all the people we had met with, in this river, seemed, by +every striking instance of resemblance, to be of the same nation with +those who inhabit Prince William's Sound, but differing essentially +from those of Nootka, or King George's Sound, both in their persons +and language. The language of these is rather more guttural; but, +like the others, they speak strongly and distinct, in words which seem +sentences. + +I have before observed, that they are in possession of iron; that is, +they have the points of their spears and knives of this metal; and +some of the former are also made of copper. Their spears are like +our spontoons; and their knives, which they keep in sheaths, are of +a considerable length. These, with a few glass beads, are the only +things we saw amongst them that were not of their own manufacture. +I have already offered my conjectures from whence they derive their +foreign articles; and shall only add here, that if it were probable +that they found their way to them from such of their neighbours with +whom the Russians may have established a trade, I will be bold to say, +the Russians themselves have never been amongst them; for if that +had been the case, we should hardly have found them clothed in such +valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. + +There is not the least doubt, that a very beneficial fur-trade might +be carried on with the inhabitants of this vast coast. But unless +a northern passage should be found practicable, it seems rather too +remote for Great Britain to receive any emolument from it. It must, +however, be observed, that the most valuable, or rather the only +valuable skins I saw on this west side of America, were those of the +sea-otter. All their other skins seemed to be of an inferior quality; +particularly those of their foxes and martins. It must also be +observed, that most of the skins which we purchased were made up into +garments. However, some of these were in good condition; but others +were old and ragged enough; and all of them very lousy. But as these +poor people make no other use of skins but for clothing themselves, +it cannot be supposed that they are at the trouble of dressing more +of them than are necessary for this purpose. And, perhaps, this is the +chief use for which they kill the animals; for the sea and the rivers +seem to supply them with their principal articles of food. It would, +probably, be much otherwise, were they once habituated to a constant +trade with foreigners. This intercourse would increase their wants, by +introducing them to an acquaintance with new luxuries; and, in order +to be enabled to purchase these, they would be more assiduous in +procuring skins, which they would soon discover to be the commodity +most sought for; and a plentiful supply of which, I make no doubt, +would be had in the country. + +It will appear, from what has been said occasionally of the tide, +that it is considerable in this river, and contributes very much to +facilitate the navigation of it. It is high-water in the stream, on +the days of the new and full moon, between two and three o'clock; and +the tide rises, upon a perpendicular, between three and four fathoms. +The reason of the tide's being greater here than at other parts of +this coast, is easily accounted for. The mouth of the river being +situated in a corner of the coast, the flood that comes from the ocean +is forced into it by both shores, and by that means swells the tide to +a great height. + +The variation of the compass was 25° 40' E. + + +SECTION VII. + +_Discoveries after leaving Cook's River.--Island of +St Hermogenes.--Cape Whitsunday.--Cape Greville.--Cape +Barnabas.--Two-headed Point.--Trinity Island.--Beering's Foggy +Island.--A beautiful Bird described.--Kodiak and the Schumagin +Islands.--A Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native.--Conjectures +about it.--Rock Point.--Halibut Island.--A Volcano +Mountain.--Providential Escape.--Arrival of the Ships at +Oonalaschka.--Intercourse with the Natives there.--Another Russian +Letter.--Samganoodha Harbour described._ + +As soon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed, and, with a +light breeze, between W.S.W., and S.S.W., plied down the river, till +the flood obliged us to anchor again. At length, about one o'clock +next morning, a fresh breeze sprung up at W., with which we got under +sail, and, at eight, passed the Barren Islands, and stretched away +for Cape St Hermogenes. At noon, this cape bore S.S.E., eight leagues +distant; and the passage between the island of that name, and the main +land, bore S. For this passage I steered, intending to go through it. +But soon after the wind failed us, and we had baffling light airs +from the eastward, so that I gave up my design of carrying the ships +between the island and the main. + +At this time we saw several columns of smoke on the coast of the +continent, to the northward of the passage; and, most probably, they +were meant as signals to attract us thither. Here the land forms a +bay, or perhaps a harbour, off the N.W. point of which lies a +low, rocky island. There are also some other islands of the same +appearance, scattered along the coast, between this place and Point +Banks. + +At eight in the evening, the island of St Hermogenes extended from S. +1/2 E. to S.S.E. 1/4 E., and the rocks that lie on the N. side of +it bore S.E., three miles distant. In this situation, we had forty +fathoms water over a bottom of sand and shells. Soon after, on putting +over hooks and lines, we caught several halibut. + +At midnight, being past the rocks, we bore up to the southward, and, +at noon, St Hermogenes bore N., four leagues distant. At this time, +the southernmost point of the main land, within or to the westward of +St Hermogenes, lay N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. This promontory, +which is situated in the latitude of 58° 15', and in the longitude of +207° 24', was named, after the day, _Cape Whitsunday_. A large bay, +which lies to the W. of it, obtained the name of _Whitsuntide Bay_. +The land on the E. side of this bay, of which Cape Whitsunday is the +most southern point, and Point Banks the northern one, is, in all +respects, like the island of St Hermogenes, seemingly destitute of +wood, and partly free from snow. It was supposed to be covered with a +mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. There were some reasons +to think it was an island. If this be so, the last-mentioned bay is +only the strait or passage that separates it from the main land.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Such seems to be the opinion of Arrowsmith, as indicated +by his map of America, 1804. That map, however, is far from being +minute or satisfactory as to this part of the voyage. The chart of +the Russian and English discoveries, which Mr Coxe has inserted in his +work so often alluded to, is perhaps a better guide. But indeed both +are faulty. The reader need not be informed that the geography of this +region is still very imperfect.--E.] + +Between one and two in the afternoon, the wind, which had been at +N.E., shifted at once to the southward. It was unsettled till six, +when it fixed at S., which was the very direction of our course, so +that we were obliged to ply up the coast. The weather was gloomy, and +the air dry, but cold. We stood to the eastward till midnight, then +tacked, and stood in for the land; and, between seven and eight in the +morning of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and not more +than half a league from some sunken rocks, which bore W.S.W. In this +situation we tacked in thirty-five fathoms water, the island of St +Hermogenes bearing N. 20° E., and the southernmost land in sight, S. + +In standing in for this coast, we crossed the mouth of Whitsuntide +Bay, and saw land all round the bottom of it, so that either the land +is connected, or else the points lock in, one behind another. I am +more inclined to think, that the former is the case, and that the +land, east of the bay, is a part of the continent. Some small islands +lie on the west of the bay. The sea-coast to the southward of it is +rather low, with projecting rocky points, between which are small bays +or inlets. There was no wood, and but little snow upon the coast; but +the mountains, which lie at some distance inland, were wholly covered +with the latter. We stood off till noon, then tacked, and stood in +for the land. The latitude, at this time, was 57° 52-1/2'; Cape St +Hermogenes bore N. 30° W., eight leagues distant, and the southernmost +part of the coast in sight; the same that was seen before, bore S.W., +ten leagues distant. The land here forms a point, which was named +_Cape Greville_. It lies in the latitude of 57° 33', and in the +longitude of 207° 15', and is distant fifteen leagues from Cape St +Hermogenes, in the direction of S. 17° W. + +The three following days we had almost constant misty weather, with +drizzling rain, so that we seldom had a sight of the coast. The wind +was S.E. by S., and S.S.E., a gentle breeze, and the air raw and cold. +With this wind and weather, we continued to ply up the coast, making +boards of six or eight leagues each. The depth of water was from +thirty to fifty-five fathoms, over a coarse, black sandy bottom. + +The fog clearing up, with the change of the wind to S.W., in the +evening of the 12th, we had a sight of the land bearing W., twelve +leagues distant. We stood in for it early next morning. At noon we +were not above three miles from it; an elevated point, which obtained +the name of _Cape Barnabas_, lying in the latitude of 57° 13', bore +N.N. E. 1/2 E., ten miles distant, and the coast extended from N. 42° +E., to W.S.W. The N.E. extreme was lost in a haze, but the point to +the S.W., whose elevated summit terminated in two round hills, on +that account was called _Two-headed Point_. This part of the coast, +in which are several small bays, is composed of high hills and deep +valleys, and in some places we could see the tops of other hills, +beyond those that form the coast, which was but little encumbered with +snow, but had a very barren appearance. Not a tree or bush was to be +seen upon it; and, in general, it had a brownish hue, probably the +effect of a mossy covering. + +I continued to ply to the S.W. by W., as the coast trended, and, at +six in the evening, being midway between Cape Barnabas and Two-headed +Point, and two leagues from the shore, the depth of water was +sixty-two fathoms. From this station, a low point of land made its +appearance beyond Two-headed Point, bearing S. 69° W., and, without +it, other land that had the appearance of an island, bore S. 59° W. + +At noon, on the 13th, being in latitude 56° 49', Cape St Barnabas bore +N. 52° E., Two-headed Point, N. 14° W., seven or eight miles distant, +and the coast of the continent extended as far as S. 72 1/2 W., and +the land seen the preceding evening, and supposed to be an island, now +appeared like two islands. From whatever quarter Two-headed Point +was viewed, it had the appearance of being an island, or else it is a +peninsula, on each side of which the shore forms a bay. The wind +still continued westerly, a gentle breeze, the weather rather dull and +cloudy, and the air sharp and dry. + +We were well up with the southernmost land next morning, and found it +to be an island, which was named _Trinity Island_. Its greatest extent +is six leagues in the direction of E. and W. Each end is elevated +naked land, and in the middle it is low, so that, at a distance, from +some points of view, it assumes the appearance of two islands. It lies +in the latitude of 56° 36', and in the longitude of 205°, and between +two and three leagues from the continent, which space is interspersed +with small islands and rocks, but there seemed to be good passage +enough, and also safe anchorage. At first we were inclined to think, +that this was Beering's _Foggy Island_,[2] but its situation so near +the main does not suit his chart. + +[Footnote 2: _Tumannoi-ostrow_, c'est-à-dire, _L'isle +Nebuleuse_.--Muller, p. 261.] + +At eight in the evening, we stood in for the land, till we were within +a league of the above-mentioned small islands. The westernmost part of +the continent now in sight, being a low point facing Trinity Island, +and which we called _Cape Trinity_, now bore W.N.W. In this situation, +having tacked in fifty-four fathoms water, over a bottom of black +sand, we stood over for the island, intending to work up between it +and the main. The land to the westward of Two-headed Point, is not so +mountainous as it is to the N.E. of it, nor does so much snow lie upon +it. There are, however, a good many hills considerably elevated, but +they are disjoined by large tracts of flat land that appeared to be +perfectly destitute of wood, and very barren. + +As we were standing over toward the island, we met two men in a small +canoe, paddling from it to the main. Far from approaching us, they +seemed rather to avoid it. The wind now began to incline to the +S., and we had reason to expect, that it would soon be at the S.E. +Experience having taught us, that a south-easterly wind was here +generally, if not always, accompanied by a thick fog, I was afraid to +venture through between the island and the continent, lest the passage +should not be accomplished before night, or before the thick weather +came on, when we should be obliged to anchor, and by that means lose +the advantage of a fair wind. These reasons induced me to stretch out +to sea, and we passed two or three rocky islets that lie near the east +end of Trinity Island. At four in the afternoon, having weathered the +island, we tacked, and steered west-southerly, with a fresh gale at +S.S.E., which, before midnight, veered to the S.E., and was, as usual, +attended with misty, drizzling, rainy weather. + +By the course we steered all night, I was in hopes of falling in with +the continent in the morning. And, doubtless, we should have seen it, +had the weather been in the least clear, but the fog prevented. Seeing +no land at noon, and the gale increasing, with a thick fog and rain, I +steered W.N.W., under such sail as we could easily haul the wind with, +being fully sensible of the danger of running before a strong gale +in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown coast. It was, however, +necessary to run some risk when the wind favoured us; for clear +weather, we had found, was generally accompanied with winds from the +west. + +Between two and three in the afternoon, land was seen through the fog, +bearing N.W., not more than three or four miles distant. Upon this, +we immediately hauled up south, close to the wind. Soon after, the two +courses were split, so that we had others to bring to the yards, and +several others of our sails received considerable damage. At nine, the +gale abated, the weather cleared up, and we lost sight of the coast +again, extending from W. by S. to N.W., about four or five leagues +distant. On sounding, we found a hundred fathoms water, over a muddy +bottom. Soon after, the fog returned, and we saw no more of the land +all night. + +At four next morning, the fog being now dispersed, we found ourselves +in a manner surrounded by land; the continent, or what was supposed +to be the continent, extending from W.S.W. to N.E. by N., and some +elevated land bearing S.E. 1/2 S., by estimation eight or nine leagues +distant. The N.E. extreme of the main was the same point of land that +we had fallen in with during the fog, and we named it _Foggy Cape_. It +lies in latitude 56° 31'. At this time, having had but little wind all +night, a breeze sprung up at N.W. With this we stood to the southward, +to make the land, seen in that direction, plainer. + +At nine o'clock, we found it to be an island of about nine leagues +in compass, lying in the latitude of 56° 10', and in the longitude of +202° 46'; and it is distinguished in our chart by the name of _Foggy +Island_, having reason to believe, from its situation, that it is the +same which had that name given to it by Beering. At the same time, +three or four islands, lying before a bay, formed by the coast of the +main land; bore N. by W.; a point, with three or four pinnacle rocks +upon it, which was called _Pinnacle Point_, bore N.W. by W.; and a +cluster of small islets, or rocks, lying about nine leagues from the +coast, S.S.E. + +At noon, when our latitude was 56° 9', and our longitude 201° 45', +these rocks bore S. 58' E., ten miles distant; Pinnacle Point, N.N.W., +distant seven leagues; the nearest part of the main land N.W. by W., +six leagues distant; and the most advanced land to the S.W., which had +the appearance of being an island, bore W., a little southerly. In +the afternoon, we had little or no wind, so that our progress was +inconsiderable. At eight in the evening, the coast extended from S.W. +to N.N.E., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. + +On the 17th, the wind was between W. and N.W., a gentle breeze, and +sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp +and dry. At noon, the continent extended from S.W. to N. by E., the +nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands lying +about the same distance from the continent, extended from S. 26° W. to +S. 52° W. + +It was calm great part of the 18th, and the weather was clear and +pleasant. We availed ourselves of this, by making observations for the +longitude and variation. The latter was found to be 21° 27' E. There +can be no doubt that there is a continuation of the continent between +Trinity Island and Foggy Cape, which the thick weather prevented us +from seeing. For some distance to the S.W., of that cape, this country +is more broken or rugged than any part we had yet seen, both with +respect to the hills themselves, and to the coast, which seemed full +of creeks, or small inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great +depth. Perhaps, upon a closer examination, some of the projecting +points between these inlets will be found to be islands. Every part +had a very barren aspect, and was covered with snow, from the summits +of the highest hills, down to a very small distance from the sea +coast. + +Having occasion to send a boat on board the Discovery, one of the +people in her shot a very beautiful bird of the hawk kind. It is +somewhat less than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore-part +of the head, which is white, and from above and behind each eye arises +an elegant yellowish-white crest, revolved backward as a ram's horn. +The bill and feet are red. It is, perhaps, the _alca monochroa_ of +Steller, mentioned in the history of Kamtschatka.[3] I think the first +of these birds was seen by us a little to the southward of Cape St +Hermogenes. From that time, we generally saw some of them every day, +and sometimes in large flocks. Besides these, we daily saw most of +the other sea-birds, that are commonly found in other northern oceans, +such as gulls, shags, puffins, sheerwaters, and sometimes ducks, +geese, and swans. And seldom a day passed without seeing seals, +whales, and ether large fish. + +[Footnote 3: P. 158. Eng. Trans.--The Tufted Aek.--_Pennant's Arct. +Zool._ ii. N°. 432.] + +In the afternoon, we got a light breeze of wind southerly, which +enabled us to steer W., for the channel that appeared between the +islands and the continent; and, at day-break next morning, we were +at no great distance from it, and found several other islands, +within those already seen by us, of various extent both in height and +circuit. But between these last islands, and those before seen, there +seemed to be a clear channel, for which I steered, being afraid to +keep the coast of the continent aboard, lest we should mistake some +point of it for an island, and, by that means, be drawn into some +inlet, and lose the advantage of the fair wind, which at this time +blew. + +I therefore kept along the southernmost chain of islands, and at noon +we were in the latitude of 55° 18', and in the narrowest part of the +channel, formed by them and those which lie along the continent, where +it is about a league and a half, or two leagues over. The largest +island in this group was now on our left, and is distinguished by +the name of _Kodiak_,[4] according to the information we afterwards +received. I left the rest of them without names. I believe them to be +the same that Beering calls Schumagin's Islands,[5] or those which he +called by that name, to be a part of them, for this group is pretty +extensive. We saw islands as far to the southward as an island could +be seen. They commence in the longitude of 200° 15' E., and extend +a degree and a half, or two degrees, to the westward. I cannot be +particular, as we could not distinguish all the islands from the coast +of the continent. Most of these islands are of a good height, +very barren and rugged, abounding with rocks and steep cliffs, and +exhibiting other romantic appearances. There are several snug bays +and coves about them, streams of fresh water run from their elevated +parts, some drift-wood was floating around, but not a tree or bush was +to be seen growing on the land. A good deal of snow still lay on +many of them, and the parts of the continent, which shewed themselves +between the innermost islands, were quite covered with it.[6] + +[Footnote 4: See an account of Kodiac, in Stæhlin's New Northern +Archipelago, p. 30-39.] + +[Footnote 5: See Muller's _Découvertes des Russes_, p. 262-277.] + +[Footnote 6: Coxe's work maybe advantageously consulted for +information respecting the islands now mentioned. But few persons, it +is presumed, feel so interested about them, as to desire any addition +to the text. Besides, though a connected account of this archipelago +might be either amusing or necessary, it is obvious that detached +notices would have little value to commend them to attention.--E.] + +At four in the afternoon, we had passed all the islands that lay to +the southward of us; the southernmost, at this time, bearing S. 5° +E., and the westernmost point of land now in sight, S. 82° W. For +this point we steered, and passed between it and two or three elevated +rocks that lie about a league to the east of it. + +Some time after we had got through this channel, in which we found +forty fathoms water, the Discovery, now about two miles astern, fired +three guns, and brought-to, and made a signal to speak with us. This +alarmed me not a little; and, as no apparent danger had been remarked +in the passage through the channel, it was apprehended that some +accident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. A boat was +immediately sent to her, and in a short time returned with Captain +Clerke. I now learned from him, that some natives, in three or four +canoes, who had been following the ship for some time, at length got +under his stern. One of them then made many signs, taking off his cap, +and bowing, after the manner of Europeans. A rope being handed down +from the ship, to this he fastened a small thin wooden case or box, +and having delivered this safe, and spoken something, and made some +more signs, the canoes dropped astern, and left the Discovery. No one +on board her had any suspicion that the box contained any thing, till +after the departure of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, +and a piece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which +something was written in the Russian language, as was supposed. The +date 1778 was prefixed to it, and, in the body of the written note, +there was a reference to the year 1776. Not learned enough to decypher +the alphabet of the writer, his numerals marked sufficiently that +others had preceded us in visiting this dreary part of the globe, who +were united to us by other ties besides those of our common nature; +and the hopes of soon meeting with some of the Russian traders could +not but give a sensible satisfaction to those who had, for such a +length of time, been conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, +and of the continent of North America. + +Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion, that some Russians had been +shipwrecked here, and that these unfortunate persons, seeing our ships +pass, had taken this method to inform us of their situation. Impressed +with humane sentiments, on such an occasion, he was desirous of +our stopping till they might have time to join us. But no such idea +occurred to me. It seemed obvious, that if this had been the case, it +would have been the first step taken by such shipwrecked persons, in +order to secure to themselves, and to their companions, the relief +they could not but be solicitous about, to send some of their body off +to the ships in the canoes. For this reason, I rather thought that the +paper contained a note of information, left by some Russian trader, +who had lately been amongst these islands, to be delivered to the next +of their countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, seeing +our ships pass, and supposing us to be Russians, had resolved to bring +off the note, thinking it might induce us to stop. Fully convinced of +this, I did not stay to enquire any farther into the matter, but +made sail, and stood away to the westward, along the coast; perhaps +I should say along the islands, for we could not pronounce, with +certainty, whether the nearest land, within us, was continent or +islands. If not the latter, the coast here forms some tolerably large +and deep bays. + +We continued to run all night with a gentle breeze at N.E., and, at +two o'clock next morning, some breakers were seen within us, at the +distance of about two miles. Two hours after, others were seen a-head, +and on our larboard bow, and between us and the land, they were +innumerable. We did but just clear them, by holding a south course. +These breakers were occasioned by rocks, some of which were above +water. They extend seven leagues from the land, and are very +dangerous, especially in thick weather, to which this coast seems +much subject. At noon, we had just got on their outside, and, by +observation, we were in the latitude of 54° 44', and in the longitude +of 198°. The nearest land, being an elevated bluff point, which was +called _Rock Point_, bore N., seven or eight leagues distant; the +westernmost part of the main, or what was supposed to be the main, +bore N. 80° W.; and a round hill, without, which was found to be +an island, and was called _Halibut-Head_, bore S. 64° W., thirteen +leagues distant. + +On the 21st at noon, having made but little progress, on account of +faint winds and calms, Halibut-Head, which lies in the latitude of 54° +27', and in the longitude of 197°, bore N. 24° W., and the island on +which it is, and called _Halibut Island_, extended from N. by E. to +N.W. by W., two leagues distant. This island is seven or eight leagues +in circuit, and, except the head, the land of it is low and very +barren. There are several small islands near it, all of the same +appearance, but there seemed to be a passage between them and the +main, two or three leagues broad.[7] + +[Footnote 7: So Arrowsmith's map has it. The chart in Coxe's work, 4th +edition, does not mention Halibut Island.--E.] + +The rocks and breakers, before mentioned, forced us so far from the +continent, that we had but a distant view of the coast between Rock +Point and Halibut Island. Over this and the adjoining islands we could +see the main land covered with snow, but particularly some hills, +whose elevated tops were seen, towering above the clouds, to a +most stupendous height. The most south-westerly of these hills was +discovered to have a _volcano_, which continually threw up vast +columns of black smoke. It stands not far from the coast, and in the +latitude of 54° 48', and in the longitude of 195° 45'. It is also +remarkable from its figure, which is a complete cone, and the volcano +is at the very summit. We seldom saw this (or indeed any other of +these mountains) wholly clear of clouds. At times, both base and +summit would be clear, when a narrow cloud, sometimes two or three, +one above another, would embrace the middle like a girdle, which, with +the column of smoke, rising perpendicular to a great height out of its +top, and spreading before the wind into a tail of vast length, made a +very picturesque appearance. It may be worth remarking, that the +wind, at the height to which the smoke of this volcano reached, moved +sometimes in a direction contrary to what it did at sea, even when it +blew a fresh gale. + +In the afternoon, having three hours calm, our people caught upwards +of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds, and +none less than twenty pounds. This was a very seasonable refreshment +to us. In the height of our fishing, which was in thirty-five +fathoms water, and three or four miles from the shore, a small canoe, +conducted by one man, came to us from the large island. On approaching +the ship, be took off his cap, and bowed, as the other had done, +who visited the Discovery the preceding day. It was evident that the +Russians must have a communication and traffic with these people, +not only from their acquired politeness, but from the note before +mentioned. But we had now a fresh proof of it; for our present visitor +wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth or +stuff, under the gut-shirt or frock of his own country. He had nothing +to barter, except a grey fox skin, and some fishing implements or +harpoons, the heads of the shafts of which, for the length of a foot +or more, were neatly made of bone, as thick as a walking cane, and +carved. He had with him a bladder full of something, which we supposed +to be oil, for he opened it, took a mouthful, and then fastened it +again. + +His canoe was of the same make with those we had seen before, but +rather smaller. He used a double bladed-paddle, as did also those +who had visited the Discovery. In his size and features, he exactly +resembled those we saw in Prince William's Sound, and in the Great +River, but he was quite free from paint of any kind, and had the +perforation of his lips made in an oblique direction, without any +ornament in it. He did not seem to understand any of the words +commonly used by our visitors in the Sound, when repeated to him. But, +perhaps, our faulty pronunciation, rather than his ignorance of the +dialect, may be inferred from this. + +The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then sunshine, till the +afternoon of the 22d, when the wind came round to the S.E., and, as +usual, brought thick rainy weather. Before the fog came on, no part of +the main land was in sight, except the volcano, and another mountain +close by it. I continued to steer W. till seven in the evening, when, +being apprehensive of falling in with the land in thick weather, we +hauled the wind to the southward, till two o'clock next morning, +and then bore away W. We made but little progress, having the wind +variable, and but little of it, till at last it fixed in the western +board, and at five in the afternoon, having a gleam of sunshine, we +saw land bearing N. 59° W., appearing in hillocks like islands. + +At six in the morning of the 24th, we got a sight of the continent, +and at nine it was seen extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. 1/2 +W., the nearest part about four leagues distant. The land to the +S.W. proved to be islands, the same that had been seen the preceding +evening. But the other was a continuation of the continent, without +any islands to obstruct our view of it. In the evening, being about +four leagues from the shore, in forty-two fathoms water, having little +or no wind, we had recourse to our hooks and lines, but only two or +three small cod were caught. + +The next morning we got a breeze easterly, and what was uncommon with +this wind, clear weather, so that we not only saw the volcano, but +other mountains, both to the east and west of it, and all the coast +of the main land under them, much plainer than at any time before. It +extended from N.E. by N. to N.W. 1/2 W., where it seemed to terminate. +Between this point and the islands without it, there appeared a large +opening, for which I steered, till we raised land beyond it. This +land, although we did not perceive that it joined the continent, made +a passage through the opening very doubtful. It also made it doubtful, +whether the land which we saw to the S.W., was insular or continental, +and, if the latter, it was obvious that the opening would be a deep +bay or inlet, from which, if once we entered it with an easterly wind, +it would not be so easy to get out. Not caring, therefore, to trust +too much to appearances, I steered to the southward. Having thus got +without all the land in sight, I then steered west, in which direction +the islands lay, for such we found this land to be. + +By eight o'clock we had passed three of them, all of a good height. +More of them were now seen to the westward, the south-westernmost part +of them bearing W.N.W. The weather, in the afternoon, became gloomy, +and at length turned to a mist, and the wind blew fresh at E. I +therefore, at ten at night, hauled the wind to the southward till +day-break, when we resumed our course to the W. + +Day-light availed us little, for the weather was so thick, that we +could not see a hundred yards before us; but as the wind was now +moderate, I ventured to run. At half-past four, we were alarmed at +hearing the sound of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving +the lead, we found twenty-eight fathoms water, and the next cast, +twenty-five. I immediately brought the ship to, with her head to the +northward, and anchored in this last depth, over a bottom of coarse +sand, calling to the Discovery, she being close by us, to anchor also. + +A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared +that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three +quarters of a mile from the N.E. side of an island, which extended +from S. by W. 1/2 W. to N. by E. 1/2 E., each extreme about a league +distant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing S. by E., and the other +E. by S., were about half a league each from us, and about the same +distance from each other. There were several breakers about them, and +yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the ships through, between +these rocks, which I should not have ventured in a clear day, and to +such an anchoring-place, that I could not have chosen a better. + +Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine what +it produced. In the afternoon she returned, and the officer, who +commanded her, reported, that it produced some tolerable good grass, +and several other small plants, one of which was like purslain, and +eat very well, either in soups or as a sallad. There was no appearance +of shrubs or trees, but on the beach were a few pieces of drift wood. +It was judged to be low water between ten and eleven o'clock, and we +found, where we lay at anchor, that the flood-tide came from the E. or +S.E. + +In the night, the wind blew fresh at S., but was more moderate toward +the morning, and the fog partly dispersed. Having weighed at seven +o'clock, we steered to the northward, between the island under which +we had anchored, and another small one near it. The channel is not +above a mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, +and we were obliged to anchor in thirty-four fathoms water. We had now +land in every direction. That to the S., extended to the S.W., in +a ridge of mountains, but our sight could not determine whether it +composed one or more islands. We afterward found it to be only one +island, and known by the name of _Oonalashka_. Between it, and the +land to the N., which had the appearance of being a group of islands, +there seemed to be a channel, in the direction of N.W. by N. On a +point, which bore W. from the ship, three quarters of a mile distant, +were several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw them +tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of +them, now and then, came off to the ships, and bartered a few trifling +things with our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour +at a time. On the contrary, they rather seemed shy, and yet we could +judge that they were no strangers to vessels, in some degree, like +ours. They behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage +tribes. + +At one o'clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at N.E., and +the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed, and steered for the +channel above-mentioned, in hopes, after we were through, of finding +the land trend away to the northward, or, at least, a passage out to +sea to the W. For we supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be +amongst islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not been +long under sail, before the wind veered to the N., which obliged us +to ply. The soundings were from forty to twenty-seven fathoms, over a +bottom of sand and mud. In the evening, the ebb making against us, we +anchored about three leagues from our last station, with the passage +bearing N.W. + +At day-break the next morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at S., +which carried us up to the passage, when it was succeeded by variable +light airs from all directions. But as there run a rapid tide in our +favour, the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery +was not so fortunate. She was carried back, got into the race, and had +some trouble to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, the land +on one side was found to trend W. and S.W., and that on the other side +to trend N. This gave us great reason to hope, that the continent had +here taken a new direction, which was much in our favour. Being in +want of water, and perceiving that we run some risk of driving about +in a rapid tide, without wind to govern the ship, I stood for a +harbour, lying on the S. side of the passage, but we were very soon +driven past it, and, to prevent being forced back through the passage, +came to an anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the +southern shore, out of the reach of the strong tide. And yet, even +here, we found it to run full five knots and a half in the hour. + +While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us, each in a +canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, +a young man, overset his canoe, while along-side of one of our boats. +Our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift, and, being +picked up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, +was obliged to come into the ship; and he went down into my cabin, +upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or +uneasiness. His dress was an upper garment, like a shirt, made of the +large gut of some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment +of the same shape, made of the skins of birds, dressed with the +feathers on, and neatly sewed together, the feathered side being wore +next his skin. It was mended or patched with pieces of silk-stuff, and +his cap was ornamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own +clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with +as much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and that of +some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to +Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in +our ships that greatly excited their curiosity; for such as could not +come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at +them.[8] + +[Footnote 8: Of Oonalashka, Unalashka, or Aghunalaska, for it is known +by these three names, Mr Coxe has presented several interesting +enough notices. The Russians were no strangers to it previous to this +voyage.--E.] + +At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into the harbour, we +anchored there in nine fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and mud. +The Discovery got in soon after. A launch was now sent for water, and +a boat to draw the seine, but we caught only four trout, and a few +other small fish. + +Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such +another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it +to me, but it was written in the Russian language, which, as already +observed, none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and +might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and +dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, +by making several low bows as he retired. + +In walking, next day, along the shore, I met with a group of natives +of both sexes, seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of raw +fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a +turbot, served up with the richest sauce. By the evening, we had +completed our water, and made such observations as the time and +weather would permit. I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide +without the harbour, but it was inconsiderable within. It was low +water at noon, and high water at half-past six in the evening, and the +water rose, upon a perpendicular, three feet four inches, but there +were marks of its sometimes rising a foot higher. + +Thick fogs, and a contrary-wind, detained us till the 2d of July, +which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the +country and of its inhabitants. The result of our observations will +be mentioned in another place. At present I shall only describe the +harbour. + +It is called, by the natives, _Samganoodha_, and is situated on the +north side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 58° 55', in the longitude +of 193° 30'; and in the strait, or passage, that separates this island +from those that lie to the north of it, and whose position before the +harbour shelters it from the winds that blow from that quarter. It +runs in S. by W., about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the +entrance, narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above a +quarter of a mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in seven, six, +and four fathoms water. Great plenty of good water may be easily got, +but not a single stick of wood of any size. + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka.--The Islands +Oonella and Acootan.--Ooneemak.--Shallowness of the Water along +the Coast--Bristol Bay.--Round Island.--Calm Point.--Cape +Newenham.--Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report.--Bristol +Bay, and its Extent.--The Ships obliged to return on account of +Shoals.--Natives come off to the Ships.--Death of Mr Anderson; his +Character; and Island named after him.--Point Rodney.--Sledge Island, +and Remarks on Landing there.--King's Island.--Cape Prince of Wales, +the Western Extreme of America. Course Westward.--Anchor in a Bay on +the Coast of Asia._ + +Having put to sea with a light breeze, at S.S.E., we steered to the +N., meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course. For, as I +observed before, the island of Oonalashka on the one side, trended +S.W., and on the other, no land was to be seen in a direction more +northerly than N.E., the whole of which laud was a continuation of the +same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the 25th of June. +That which lies before Samganoodha, and forms the N.E. side of the +passage through which we came, is called _Oonella_, and is about seven +leagues in circumference. Another island to the N.E. of it, is called +_Acootan_, which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath in it +some very high mountains which were covered with snow. It appeared, +that we might have gone very safely between, these two islands and +the continent, the S.W. point of which opened off the N.E. point of +Acootan, in the direction of N. 60° E.; and which proved to be the +same point of land we had seen when we quitted the coast of the +continent, on the 25th of June, to go without the islands. It is +called by the people of these parts _Ooneemak_, and lies in the +latitude of 54° 30', and in the longitude of 192° 30'. Over the cape, +which of itself is high land, is a round elevated mountain, at this +time entirely covered with snow. + +At six in the evening, this mountain bore E. 2° N., and at eight we +had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, that the coast of the +continent had now taken a north-easterly direction, I ventured to +steer the same course till one o'clock the next morning, when the +watch on deck thought they saw land a-head. Upon this we wore, and +stood to the S.W. for two hours, and then resumed our course to the +E.N.E. + +At six o'clock, land was seen a-head, bearing S.E., about five leagues +distant. As we advanced, we raised more and more land, all connected, +and seemingly in the direction of our course. At noon, it extended +from S.S.W. to E., the nearest part five or six leagues distant; Our +latitude at this time was 55° 21', and our longitude 195° 18'. This +coast is on the N.W. side of the volcano mountain, so that we must +have seen it, if the weather had been tolerably clear. + +At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon an E. by +N. course from noon, we sounded, and found forty-eight fathoms, over +a bottom of black sand. Being at this time four leagues from the land, +the eastern part in sight bore E.S.E., and appeared as a high round +hummock, seemingly detached from the main. + +Having continued to steer E.N.E. all night, at eight in the morning of +the 4th, the coast was seen from S.S.W. to E. by S.; and at times we +could see high land, covered with snow behind it. Soon after it fell +calm, and being in thirty fathoms water, we put over hooks and lines, +and caught a good number of cod-fish. At noon, having now a breeze +from the east, and the weather being clear, we found ourselves six +leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to E. by S. The +hummock, seen the preceding evening, bore S.W. by S. ten leagues +distant. Our latitude was now 55° 50', and our longitude 197° 3'. A +great hollow swell, from W.S.W., assured us that there was no main +land near in that direction. I stood to the N. till six in the +afternoon, when the wind having veered to S.E., enabled us to steer +E.N.E. The coast lay in this direction, and at noon, the next day, was +about four leagues distant. + +On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made but little +progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, we were in nineteen +fathoms water, and about three or four leagues from the coast, which, +on the 8th, extended from S.S.W. to E. by N., and was all low +land, with a ridge of mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is +probable, that this low coast extends, some distance, to the S.W.; and +that such places as we sometimes, took for inlets or bays, are only +valleys between the mountains. + +On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at N.W., we steered E. by N., +to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were in the latitude of 57° 49', +and in the longitude of 201° 33', and about two leagues from the land, +which extended from S. by E. to E.N.E.; being all a low coast, with +points shooting out in some places, which, from the deck, appeared +like islands; but, from the mast-head, low land was seen to connect +them. In this situation, the depth of water was fifteen fathoms, the +bottom a fine black sand. + +As we had advanced to the N.E., we had found the depth of water +gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more and more northerly. +But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same +direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of the low +land, between the foot of the mountains and the sea-coast, insensibly +increased. Both high and low grounds were perfectly destitute of wood; +but seemed to be covered with a green turf, except the mountains, +which were covered with snow. Continuing to steer along the coast, +with a gentle breeze, westerly, the water gradually shoaled from +fifteen to ten fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten +miles from the shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated mountain, +which had been in sight for some time, bore S.E. by E., twenty-one +leagues distant. Some other mountains, belonging to the same chain, +and much farther distant, bore E. 3° N. The coast extended as far as +N.E. 1/2 N., where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which we +hoped and expected, that it would take a more easterly direction. But, +soon after, we discovered low land, extending from behind this point, +as far as N.W. by W., where it was lost in the horizon; and behind it +was high land, that appeared in detached hills. + +Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north vanished in a +moment. I stood on till nine o'clock, for so long it was light, and +then the point above mentioned bore N.E. 1/2 E., about three miles +distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed +to be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water +appeared to be discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have +given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, +through the great flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the +S.E., and the hills to the N.W. It must abound with salmon, as we saw +many leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found +in the maws of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, +distinguished by the name of _Bristol River_, lies in the latitude of +58° 27', and in the longitude of 201° 55'.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Mr Arrowsmith lays down this river, but without naming +it. Mr Coxe does neither. Both of them specify Bristol Bay. Mr A.'s +delineation of the coast of the peninsular projection, corresponds +extremely well with Captain Cook's description.--E.] + +Having spent the night in making short boards, at day-break on the +morning of the 10th, we made sail to the W.S.W., with a gentle breeze +at N.E. At eleven o'clock, we thought the coast to the N.W. terminated +in a point, bearing N.W. by W.; and as we had now deepened the water +from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering the +Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run a mile, she made a +signal for shoal water. At that instant we had the depth of seven +fathoms; and before we could get the ship's head the other way, had +less than five; but the Discovery had less than four. + +We stood back to the N.E. three or four miles; but finding there was +a strong tide or current setting to the W.S.W., that is toward the +shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. Two +hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward; +which proved, that it was the tide of ebb that came from, the river +above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had taken +up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea-water. This +furnished another proof that we were before a large river. + +At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to S.W., we weighed, and +stood to the southward, with boats ahead, sounding; and passed over +the south end of the shoal in six fathoms water. We then got into +thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored, at half-past +eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the S.E. shore, in +sight, bearing S.E. 1/2 S., and the westernmost land, on the other +shore, N.W. We had, in the course of the day, seen high land, bearing +N. 60° W., by estimation twelve leagues distant. + +Having weighed next morning, at two o'clock, with a light breeze +at S.W. by W., we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the +flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in +twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had +prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, +we weighed, and plied to the S.W. in the evening, the wind was very +variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before since our +arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance. + +The wind having settled again in the S.W. quarter, in the morning of +the 12th, we stood to the N.W., and at ten saw the continent. At noon, +it extended from N.E. by N., to N.W. 1/4 W.; and an elevated hill bore +N.N.W., ten leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which, +from its figure, obtained the name of _Round Island_. It lies in the +latitude of 58° 37', and in the longitude of 200° 6', and seven miles +from the continent. In the evening, at nine, having stood to the +northward to within three leagues of the shore, we tacked in fourteen +fathoms water; the extremes of the coast bearing E.S.E. 1/2 E. and W. +The wind veering to the N.W. enabled us to make a good stretch along +shore till two o'clock in the morning, when we got all at once into +six fathoms water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. +After edging off a little, our depth gradually increased, and at +noon we had twenty fathoms, when the latitude was 53° 13', and the +longitude 199°. Round Island bore N., 5° E.; and the west extreme of +the coast N., 16° W., seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, +which obtained the name of _Calm Point_, from our having calm weather +when off it. To the N.W. of Round Island are two or three hillocks +that appeared like islands; and it is possible they may be such; for +we had but a distant view of the coast in this place.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Both Round Island and Calm Point are named by Coxe; +Arrowsmith marks them, but has omitted the names.--E.] + +During the 14th and 15th our progress was slow, having little wind, +and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the +ship. The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we +had tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few +flat fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared +up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point +bore N., 72° E., and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction +of W., bore N., 30° E., three miles distant. Between these two points, +the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly +visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the N.W. side of +this last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which at this +time bore N., 36° W. sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant +Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what +direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced; +for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the +flood-tide setting strongly to the N.W. along the coast. At noon it +was high water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues +distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in +our favour, we weighed, and drove with it, for there was no wind. + +Soon after, Mr Williamson returned; and reported, that he had landed +on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found, that +the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took +possession of the country in his majesty's name; and left on the hill +a bottle, in which was inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of +the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which +he gave the name of _Cape Newenham_, is a rocky point, of tolerable +height, situated in the latitude of 58° 42', and in the longitude +of 197° 36'. Over, or within it, are two elevated hills, rising one +behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The +country, as far as Mr Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor +shrub. The hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and +other plants, very few of which were in flower. He saw no other animal +but a doe and a fawn; and a dead sea-horse or cow upon the beach. Of +these animals we had lately seen a great many. + +As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that Cape +fixes the northern limit of the great bay and gulf lying before the +river Bristol, which, in honour of the Admiral, Earl of Bristol, was +named _Bristol Bay_. _Cape Ooneemak_ is the south limit of this bay; +and is distant eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction +of S.S.W.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Cape Newenham is mentioned by Arrowsmith, but not by +Coxe; both have Shoal Ness, soon to be spoken of.--E.] + +About eight in the evening, a light breeze springing up, which fixed +at S.S.E., we steered N.W. and N.N.W., round Cape Newenham, which, at +noon next day, bore S. by E., distant four leagues. At this time the +most advanced land to the northward bore N., 30° E.; our depth of +water was seventeen fathoms, and the nearest shore 3-1/2 leagues +distant. We had but little wind all the afternoon; so that, at ten at +night, we had only made three leagues upon a north course. + +We steered N. by W. till eight the next morning, when, our depth of +water decreasing suddenly to five and seven fathoms, we brought-to, +till a boat from each ship was sent ahead to sound, and then steered +N.E. after them; and at noon we had deepened the water to seventeen +fathoms. At this time, Cape Newenham bore S., 9° E., distant eleven or +twelve leagues; the N.E. extreme of the land in sight N., 66° E.; and +the nearest shore about four or five leagues distant. Our latitude, by +observation, was 59° 16'. + +Between this latitude and Cape Newenham, the coast is composed of +hills and low land, and appeared to form several bays. A little before +one o'clock, the boats ahead made the signal for meeting with shoal +water. It seems they had only two fathoms; and at the same time the +ships were in six fathoms. By hauling a little more to the northward, +we continued in much the same depth till between five and six o'clock, +when the boats meeting with less and less water, I made the signal +to the Discovery, she being then ahead, to anchor, which we did soon +after. In bringing our ship up, the cable parted at the clinch, which +obliged us to come-to with the other anchor. We rode in six fathoms +water, a sandy bottom, and about four or five leagues from the +main land; Cape Newenham bearing S., seventeen leagues distant. The +farthest hills we could see to the north, bore N.E. by E.; but there +was low land stretching out from the high land as far as N. by E. +Without this was a shoal of sand and stones, that was dry at half ebb. + +I had sent the two masters, each in a boat, to sound between this +shoal and the coast. On their return, they reported, that there was a +channel, in which they found six and seven fathoms water; but that it +was narrow and intricate. At low water, we made an attempt to get a +hawser round the lost anchor, but did not succeed then. However, +being determined not to leave it behind me, as long as there was a +probability of recovering it, I persevered in my endeavours, and at +last succeeded in the evening of the 20th. + +While we were thus employed, I ordered Captain Clerke to send his +master in a boat to look for a passage in the S.W. quarter. He did so; +but no channel was to be found in that direction; nor did there appear +to be any way to get clear of these shoals, but to return by the track +which had brought us in. For although, by following the channel +we were in, we might probably have got farther down the coast; and +though, possibly, this channel might have led us at last to the north, +clear of the shoals, still the attempt would have been attended with +vast risk; and if we should not have succeeded, there would have been +a considerable loss of time that could ill be spared. These reasons +induced me to return by the way in which we came; and so get without +the shoals. + +A number of lunar observations, made by Mr King and myself on this +and the four preceding days, and all reduced to the ship's present +station, gave the longitude + + 197° 45' 48" + By the time-keeper it was 197 26 48 + Our latitude was 59 37 30 + Variation by the \ A.M. 23° 34' 3" \ + mean of three } P.M. 22 19 40 / mean 22° 56' 51" E. + compasses, / + +The northernmost part of the coast that we could see from this +station, I judged to lie in the latitude of 60°. It seemed to form a +low point, which obtained the name of _Shoal-Ness_. + +The tide of flood sets to the north, and the ebb to the south. It +rises and falls, upon a perpendicular, five or six feet; and I reckon +it to be high-water on the full and change days at eight o'clock. + +Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, with a light +breeze at N.N.W., we steered back to the southward, having three boats +ahead to direct us. But, notwithstanding this precaution, we found +more difficulty in returning than we had in advancing; and at last +were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had +only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the +country, each in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached +with great caution, hollowing and opening their arms as they advanced. +This, we understood, was to express their pacific intentions. At +length, some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were +thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture alongside; and +a traffic presently commenced between them and our people; who got +dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our +visitors taking in exchange for these whatever was offered them. They +seemed to be the same sort of people that we had of late met with all +along this coast; wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and +noses; but were far more dirty, and not so well clothed. They appeared +to be wholly unacquainted with people like us; they knew not the use +of tobacco; nor was any foreign article seen in their possession, +unless a knife may be looked upon as such. This, indeed, was only a +piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the +purpose of a knife. They, however, knew the value and use of this +instrument so well, that it seemed to be the only article they wished +for. Most of them had their hair shaved or cut short off, leaving only +a few locks behind, or on one side. For a covering for the head they +wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which appeared to be of wool. One +part of their dress, which we got from them, was a kind of girdle, +very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending from it, and +passing between the legs, so as to conceal the adjoining parts. By +the use of such a girdle, it should seem that they sometimes go naked, +even in this high latitude; for they would hardly wear it under their +other clothing. + +The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen; +only with this difference, that these were broader, and the hole in +which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our +boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all +left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done. + +It was the 22d in the evening before we got clear of these shoals, and +then I durst not venture to steer to the westward in the night, but +spent it off Cape Newenham; and at day-break, next morning, steered +to the N.W., ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two +leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. Fearing, if +we continued this course, that we should find less and less water, I +hauled to the southward; the wind being at east, a fresh breeze. This +course brought us gradually. into eighteen fathoms, and having that +depth, I ventured to steer a little westerly; and afterward west, when +we at last found twenty-six fathoms water. + +On the 24th at noon, we were, by observation in the latitude of 58° +7', and in the longitude of 194° 22'. Three leagues to the westward +of this station we had twenty-eight fathoms water, and then steered +W.N.W., the water gradually deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I +would have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that +direction, I could not. + +The 25th, in the evening, having a very thick fog, and but little +wind, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. Our latitude was now +58° 29', and our longitude 191° 37'. At six, the next morning, the +weather clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a small breeze +at east, steered north, our soundings being from twenty-eight to +twenty-five fathoms. After running nine leagues upon this course, +the wind returned back to the north, which obliged us to steer more +westerly. + +The weather continued for the most part foggy till toward noon on the +28th, when we had a few hours clear sunshine; during which we made +several lunar observations. The mean result of them, reduced to +noon, when the latitude was 59° 55', gave 190° 6' longitude; and the +time-keeper gave 189° 59'. The variation of the compass was 18° 40' +E. Continuing our westerly course, the water having now deepened to +thirty-six fathoms, at four o'clock next morning we discovered land, +bearing N.W. by W., six leagues distant. We stood toward it till +half-past ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water, being at +this time a league from the land, which bore N.N.W. It was the S.E. +extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of considerable height; on +which account it was called _Point Upright_, and lies in the latitude +of 60° 17', and in the longitude of 187° 30'. More land was seen to +the westward of the point; and, at a clear interval, we saw another +elevated portion of land in the direction of W. by S.; and this +seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we met with an +incredible number of birds, all of the awk kind before described. + +We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that we made but +little progress; and the weather was not clear enough to enable us to +determine the extent of the land before us. We supposed it to be one +of the many islands laid down by Mr Stæhlin, in his map of the New +Northern Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more of +them.[4] + +[Footnote 4: The opinion here given, we shall find, is afterwards +corrected; and the land in question proved to be a discovery unknown +to the Russians.--E.] + +At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore N.W. by N., +six leagues distant. About this time, a light breeze springing up at +N.N.W., we stood to the N.E. till four o'clock next morning, when the +wind veering to the eastward, we tacked, and stood to the N.W. Soon +after the wind came to S.E.; and we steered N.E. by N.; which course +we continued, with soundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till +next day at noon. At this time we were in the latitude of 60° 58', and +in the longitude of 191°. The wind now veering to N.E., I first made +a stretch of ten leagues to the N.W.; and then, seeing no land in that +direction, I stood back to the eastward about fifteen leagues, and +met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The soundings were from +twenty-two to nineteen fathoms. + +Variable, light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all the 2d; but +fixing in the S.E. quarter in the morning of the 3d, we resumed our +course to the northward. At noon, we were, by observation, in the +latitude of 62° 34', our longitude was 192°, and our depth of water +sixteen fathoms. + +Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption +for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this +afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well +skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge +in other branches of science. The reader of this Journal will have +observed how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the +voyage; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, +I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications, on +various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, +as would have abundantly shewn that he was not unworthy of this +commendation.[5] Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to +the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island; +and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very +great regard, I named it _Anderson's Island_. The next day, I removed +Mr Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and +appointed Mr Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be +surgeon of the Discovery. + +[Footnote 5: Mr Anderson's Journal seems to have been discontinued for +about two months before his death; the last date in his MSS. being of +the 3d of June.--D. + +The Biographia Britannica informs us, that Mr Anderson left his papers +to Sir Joseph Banks; but that the Admiralty took possession of the +larger part of them, and, for what reason is not mentioned, retained +them. Such parts, however, it is said, as related solely to natural +history, were delivered by Captain King to the Baronet, who bears +testimony "to the excellence of Mr A.'s character, the utility of his +observations, and to the great probability, that, if he had survived, +he would have given to the world something which would have done him +credit." Much of this commendatory opinion might be inferred from +what has been published of Mr A.'s labours, which constitute no +inconsiderable portion, either in bulk or value, of Captain Cook's +communications.--E.] + +On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending from +N.N.E. to N.W. We stood on toward it till four o'clock, when, being +four or five miles from it, we tacked; and, soon after, the wind +falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom; +being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in the +latitude of 64° 27', and in the longitude of 194° 18'. At intervals, +we could see the coast extending from E. to N.W., and a pretty high +island, bearing W. by N. three leagues distant. + +The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent of America, +appeared low next the sea; but, inland, it swelled into hills, which +rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. It had a greenish +hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay +at anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, and set to +the west, till between ten and eleven o'clock. From that time till two +the next morning, the stream set to the eastward, and the water fell +three feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb; +from which I concluded, that, besides the ebb, there was a westerly +current. + +At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at S.W., we ran down, +and anchored between the island and the continent, in seven fathoms +water. Soon after I landed upon the island, accompanied by Mr King and +some others of the officers. I hoped to have had from it a view of +the coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in that +direction, that the prospect was not more extensive than from +the ship. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the +northward, at a low point, named _Point Rodney_, which bore from the +island N.W. 1/2 W., three or four leagues distant; but the high land, +which took a more northerly direction, was seen a great way farther. + +This island, which was named _Sledge Island_, and lies in the latitude +of 64° 30', and in the longitude of 193° 57', is about four leagues in +circuit. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large +loose stones, that are, in many places, covered with moss and other +vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different +sorts, and most of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree, +either upon this island or on the continent. On a small low spot, near +the beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild purslain, pease, +long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one +fox, a few plovers, and some other small birds; and we met with some +decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately +been on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently visit +it for some purpose or other, as there was a beaten path from the +one end to the other. We found, a little way from the shore where +we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the +island, it seemed to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make +use of to convey goods from place to place over the ice or snow. It +was ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had a kind of rail-work +on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was +admirable, and all the parts neatly put together; some with wooden +pins, but mostly with thongs or lashings of whalebone, which made me +think it was entirely the workmanship of the natives. + +At three o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded to the +north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. We had an opportunity +to observe the sun's meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get +altitudes, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude +by the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, +we advanced but slowly; and at eight in the evening, finding the ships +settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored in seven +fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. Sledge Island bore S., 51° +E., ten leagues distant, and was seen over the south point of the main +land. + +Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been misty, +clearing up, we saw high land extending from N., 40° E., to N., +30° W., apparently disjoined from the coast, under which we were at +anchor, which seemed to trend away N.E. At the same time, an island +was seen bearing N., 81° W., eight or nine leagues distant. It +appeared to have no great extent, and was named _King's Island_. We +rode here till eight o'clock next morning, when we weighed, and stood +to the N.W. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got sight +of the N.W. land, extending from N. by W. to N.W. by N., distant about +three leagues. We spent the night making short boards, the weather +being misty and rainy, with little wind; and, between four and five +of the morning of the 8th, we had again a sight of the N.W. land; and +soon after, on account of a calm, and a current driving us toward the +shore, we found it necessary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, about +two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme is an elevated +peaked hill, situated in latitude 65° 36', and in longitude 192° 18'. +A breeze at N.E. springing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and stood +to the S.E., in hopes of finding a passage between the coast on which +we had anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this N.W. land. But we +soon got into seven fathoms water, and discovered low land connecting +the two coasts, and the high land behind it. + +Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, I tacked, +and stood away for its N.W. part, and came to an anchor under it in +seventeen fathoms water. The weather at this time was very thick with +rain; but at four next morning it cleared up, so that we could see +the land about us. A high steep rock or island bore W. by S.; another +island to the N. of it; and much larger, bore W. by N.; the peaked +hill above mentioned S.E. by E.; and the point under it, S., 32° E. +Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out towards the N.W., +the extreme point of which bore N.E. by E., about three miles +distant. Over and beyond it some high land was seen, supposed to be a +continuation of the continent. + +This point of land, which I named _Cape Prince of Wales_, is the more +remarkable, by being the western extremity of all America hitherto +known. It is situated in the latitude of 65° 45', and in the longitude +of 191° 45'. The observations by which both were determined, though +made in sight of it, were liable to some small error, on account of +the haziness of the weather. We thought we saw some people upon the +coast; and probably we were not mistaken, as some elevations, like +stages, and others like huts, were seen at the same place. We saw the +same things on the continent within Sledge Island, and on some other +parts of the coast. + +It was calm till eight o'clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at +north springing up, we weighed. But we had scarcely got our sails set, +when it began to blow and rain very hard, with misty weather. The wind +and current being in contrary directions, raised such a sea that it +frequently broke into the ship. We had a few minutes sunshine at noon; +and from the observation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned +latitude. + +Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little +effect, I bore up for the island we had seen to the westward, +proposing to come to an anchor under it till the gale should cease. +But on getting to this land, we found it composed of two small +islands, each not above three or four leagues in circuit, and +consequently they could afford us little shelter. Instead of +anchoring, therefore, we continued to stretch to the westward; and at +eight o'clock, land was seen in that direction, extending from N.N.W. +to W. by S., the nearest part six leagues distant. I stood on till +ten, and then made a board to the eastward, in order to spend the +night. + +At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the +west for the land we had seen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes +after seven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189° 24', it +extended from S. 72° W. to N. 41° E. Between the S.W. extreme, and a +point which bore W., two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay, +in which we anchored at ten o'clock in the forenoon, about two miles +from the north shore, in ten fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. +The south part of the bay bore S. 58° W., the north point N. 43° E., +the bottom of the bay N. 60° W., two or three leagues distant, and. +the two islands we had passed the preceding day, N. 72° E., distant +fourteen leagues. + + +SECTION IX. + +_Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing +the Ships.--Interview with some of them.--Their +Weapons.--Persons.--Ornaments.--Clothing.--Winter and Summer +Habitations.--The Ships cross the Strait, to the Coast of +America.--Progress Northward.--Cape Mulgrave.--Appearance of Fields of +Ice.--Situation of Icy Cape.--The Sea blocked up with Ice.--Sea-horses +killed, and used as Provisions.--These Animals described.--Dimensions +of one of them.--Cape Lisburne.--Fruitless Attempt to get through the +Ice at a Distance from the Coast.--Observations on the Formation of +thin Ice.--Arrival on the Coast of Asia.--Cape North.--The Prosecution +of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year._ + +As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore a +village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have +thrown into confusion or fear. We could plainly see persons running +up the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations +I proposed to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats, +accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each +armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising +ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down +toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to +make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire +them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, for the +moment we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed them alone, +without any thing in my hand; and by signs and gestures prevailed on +them to stop, and to receive some trifling presents. In return for +these they gave me two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I +cannot say whether they or I made the first present; for it appeared +to me that they had brought down with them these things for this very +purpose, and that they would have given them to me, even though I had +made no return. + +They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their desire by +signs, that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. +On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back +several paces. In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward, +always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, +while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with +their arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three of my companions, +got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to those about us, soon +created a kind of confidence, so that they were not alarmed when a +few more of our people joined us, and, by degrees, a sort of traffic +between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and +other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows. +But nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with a +spear or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never once +quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid +theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then, +they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in +an instant, and, for their security, they desired us to sit down. + +The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of +them had barbs, and some had a round blunt point. What use these +may be applied to I cannot say, unless it be to kill small animals, +without damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the +American coast, and like those that were used by the Esquimaux. +The spears, or spontoons, were of iron or steel; and of European +or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to +ornament them with carving, and inlayings of brass, and of a white +metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, +had the spear slung over their right shoulder by a leathern strap. A +leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows; +and some of these quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of red +leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments. + +Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed that +they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what one +could expect to find amongst so northern a people. All the Americans +we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of +stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we +now were amongst, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were +stout and well-made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different +nation. We saw neither women nor children of either sex, nor any +aged, except one man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who +carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under +than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark across his +face, which I did not see in any others. All of them had their ears +bored, and some had glass beads hanging to them. These were the only +fixed ornaments we saw about them, for they wear none to the lips. +This is another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had +lately seen. + +Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair +of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins +of deer, dogs, seals, &c. and extremely well dressed, some with the +hair or fur on, but others without it. The caps were made to fit the +head very close; and besides these caps, which most of them wore, +we got from them some hoods, made of skins of dogs, that were large +enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be +black; but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off, +and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got +from us, knives and tobacco were what they valued most. + +We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter +habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which +is sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I +examined was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or +more high. The framing was composed of wood and the ribs of whales, +disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller +materials of the same sort. Over this framing is laid a covering of +strong coarse grass, and that again is covered with earth, so that, +on the outside, the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a +wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two +sides and one end. At the other end, the earth is raised sloping, to +walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof +over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, +in which I saw nothing but water. And at the end of each house was +a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms +communicated with the house, by a dark passage, and with the open air, +by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon; +but they cannot be said to be wholly under ground, for one end reached +to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was +built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, +composed of the large bones of large fish. + +The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a +point at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered +with the skins of sea-animals. I examined the inside of one. There was +a fire-place just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all +very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about +half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; for there +were several partitions made with skins. The bed and bedding were of +deer-skins, and most of them were dry and clean. + +About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet +high, such as we had observed on some parts of the American coast. +They were wholly composed of bones, and seemed intended for drying +their fish and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their +dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, +rather large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like +wool. They are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in winter. For +sledges they have, as I saw a good many laid up in one of the winter +huts. It is also not improbable, that dogs may constitute a part of +their food. Several lay dead that had been killed that morning. + +The canoes of these people are of the same sort with those of the +Northern Americans, some, both of the large and of the small ones, +being seen lying in a creek under the village. + +By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-animals, it appeared that +the sea supplied them with the greatest part of their subsistence. The +country appeared to be exceedingly barren, yielding neither tree nor +shrub, that we could see. At some distance westward, we observed a +ridge of mountains covered with snow that had lately fallen. + +At first, we supposed this land to be a part of the island of +Alaschka, laid down in Mr Stæhlin's map before-mentioned. But from the +figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, +and from the longitude, we soon began to think that it was, more +probably, the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of +Asia, explored by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without +farther examination, I must have pronounced Mr Stæhlin's map, and +his account of the new northern archipelago, to be either exceedingly +erroneous, even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment +which I had no right to pass upon a publication so respectably +vouched, without producing the clearest proofs.[1] + +[Footnote 1: If the account of Beering's voyage had been accurately +given, Captain Cook need not have hesitated about the situation +or nature of the place he now visited. Captain Billings afterwards +anchored in the same bay on his voyage to complete the discoveries of +Cook, as related in Mr Coxe's work. Still, however, our acquaintance +with this part of Asia is very imperfect. Captain Cook, it may be +proper to remark here, had the merit of ascertaining the vicinity of +the two continents, which had been but vaguely conjectured before his +time.--E.] + +After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we +returned to our ships, and soon after, the wind veering to the south, +we weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the N.E., +between the coast and the two islands. The next day, at noon, the +former extended from S. 80° W. to N. 84° W., the latter bore S. 40° +W., and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36° +E., with land extending from it as far as S. 75° E. The latitude of +the ship was 66° 5-1/4', the longitude 191° 19', our depth of water +twenty-eight fathoms, and our position nearly in the middle of the +channel between the two coasts, each being seven leagues distant. + +From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American +coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and there being +little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth tailing, I +was obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy we +had left to prevent the ships driving into less. The nearest part of +the western land bore W., twelve leagues distant, the peaked hill +over Cape Prince of Wales, S. 16° W., and the northernmost part of +the American continent in sight, E.S.E., the nearest part about four +leagues distant. After we had anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and +the water was found to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay +at anchor, which was from six to nine in the evening, we found little +or no current, nor could we perceive that the water either rose or +fell. + +A breeze of wind springing up at N., we weighed, and stood to the +westward, which course soon brought us into deep water, and, during +the 12th, we plied to the N., both coasts being in sight, but we kept +nearest to that of America. + +At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing up at S., I +steered N.E. by N., till four o'clock next morning, when, seeing no +land, we directed our course E. by N., and between nine and ten, land, +supposed to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended +from E. by S. to E. by N., and soon after we saw more land, bearing +N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms water, at two +in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we stood in again +for the land, which was seen soon after, extending from N. to S.E., +the nearest part three or four leagues distant. The coast here forms a +point, named _Point Mulgrave_, which lies in the latitude of 67° 45', +and in the longitude of 194° 51'. The land appeared very low next the +sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate height. The +whole was free from snow, and, to appearance, destitute of wood. I now +tacked, and bore away N.W. by W., but soon after, thick weather with +rain coming on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to the west. + +Next morning, at two o'clock, the wind veered to S.W. by S.; and blew +a strong gale, which abated at noon; and the sun shining out, we found +ourselves, by observation, in the latitude of 68° 18'. I now steered +N.E., till six o'clock the next morning, when I steered two points +more easterly. In this run, we met with several sea-horses and +flights of birds, some like sand-larks, and others no bigger than +hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen, so that we judged ourselves +to be not far from land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not +expect to see any; and, as the wind blew strong, it was not prudent +to continue a course which was most likely to bring us to it. From the +noon of this day, to six o'clock in the morning of the following, I +steered E. by N., which course brought us into sixteen fathoms water. +I now steered N.E. by E., thinking, by this course, to deepen our +water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms, +which made me think it proper to haul close to the wind that now +blew at west. Toward noon, both sun and moon were seen clearly at +intervals, and we got some flying observations for the longitude, +which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70° 33', gave 197° 41'. +The time-keeper, for the same time, gave 198°, and the variation was +35° 1' 22" E. We had, afterward, reason to believe, that the observed +longitude was within a very few miles of the truth. + +Some time before noon, we perceived a brightness in the northern +horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. +It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable we +should meet with ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air, and +gloominess of the weather, for two or three days past, seemed to +indicate some sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a +large field of ice, left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the +brightness of the horizon. At half-past two, we tacked, close to +the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the +latitude of 70° 41', not being able to stand on any farther. For the +ice was quite impenetrable, and extended from W. by N. to E. by N. as +far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses, some in +the water, but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of hoisting out +the boats to kill some, but the wind freshening, I gave up the design, +and continued to ply to the southward, or rather to the westward, for +the wind came from that quarter. + +We gained nothing; for, on the 18th at noon, our latitude was 70° 44', +and we were near five leagues farther to the eastward. We were, at +this time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a +wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. But, farther +north, it appeared much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged; and +here and there, we saw upon it pools of water. + +We now stood to the southward; and, after running six leagues, shoaled +the water to seven fathoms, but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At +this time, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we +saw land extending from S. to S.E. by E., about three or four miles +distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered +with ice, for which reason it obtained the name of _Icy Cape_. Its +latitude is 70° 29', and its longitude 198° 20'. The other extreme of +the land was lost in the horizon, so that there can be no doubt of its +being a continuation of the American continent. The Discovery being +about a mile astern, and to leeward, found less water than we did, +and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to prevent +separation. + +Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in shoal water, +upon a lee-shore, and the main body of the ice to windward, driving +down upon us. It was evident, that if we remained much longer between +it and the land, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen +to take the ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to +leeward; and the only direction that was open, was to the S.W. After +making a short board to the northward, I made the signal for the +Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved +rather favourable, so that we lay up S.W. and S.W. by W. + +At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to W., I +tacked to the northward, and, at noon, the latitude was 70° 6', and +the longitude 195° 42'. In this situation, we had a good deal of +drift-ice about us; and the main ice was about two leagues to the N. +At half-past one, we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact +as that which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, and +in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the +ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses; and, as we were in want of +fresh provisions, the boats from each ship were sent to get some. + +By seven o'clock in the evening, we had received, on board the +Resolution, nine of these animals, which, till now, we had supposed +to be sea-cows; so that we were not a little disappointed, especially +some of the seamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been +feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor would they have been +disappointed now, nor have known the difference, if we had not +happened to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, and +declared what animals these were, and that no one ever eat of them. +But, notwithstanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lasted; +and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt meat. + +The fat; at first, is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows +rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will keep much longer. +The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste; and +the heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when +melted, yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and +their hides, which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging. +The teeth or tusks of most of them were, at this time, very small; +even some of the largest and oldest of these animals had them not +exceeding six inches in length. From this we concluded, that they had +lately shed their old teeth. + +They lie, in herds of many hundreds, upon the ice, huddling one over +the other like swine, and roar or bray very loud, so that, in the +night or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the +ice before we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep, some +being always upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, +would wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually +communicated, the whole herd would be awake presently. But they were +seldom in a hurry to get away, till after they had once been fired at. +Then they would tumble one over the other, into the sea, in the utmost +confusion. And if we did not, at the first discharge, kill those we +fired at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They +did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal some authors +have described, not even when attacked. They are rather more so to +appearance than in reality. Vast numbers of them would follow, and +come close up to the boats. But the flash of a musket in the pan, +or even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them down in an +instant. The female will defend the young one to the very last, and +at the expense of her own life, whether in the water, or upon the ice. +Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she be dead; so that, if +you kill one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water, +holds the young one between her fore-fins. + +Mr Pennant, in his _Synopsis Quadr._ p. 835,[2] has given a very good +description of this animal under the name of _Arctic Walrus_, but I +have no where seen a good drawing of one. Why they should be called +sea-horses is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the +Russian name _Morse_, for they have not the least resemblance of a +horse. This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the +Gulf of St Laurence, and there called Sea-cow. It is certainly more +like a cow than a horse; but this likeness consists in nothing but the +snout. In short, it is an animal like a seal, but incomparably larger. +The dimensions and weight of one, which was none of the largest, were +as follows:-- + + Feet. Inches. + + Length from the snout to the tail 9 4 + Length of the neck, from the snout to the + shoulder-bone 2 6 + Height of the shoulder 5 0 + + Length of the fins { Fore 2 4 + { Hind 2 6 + + Breadth of the fins { Fore 1 2-1/2 + { Hind 2 0 + + Snout { Breadth 0 5-1/2 + { Depth 1 3 + + Circumference of the neck close to the ears 2 7 + Circumference of the body at the shoulder 7 10 + Circumference near the hind fins 5 6 + From the snout to the eyes 0 7 + + + lbs. + Weight of the carcase, without + the head, skin, or entrails 854 + Head 41-1/2 + Skin 205 + +[Footnote 2: Mr Pennant, since Captain Cook wrote this, has described +this animal in a work which he calls Arctic Zoology. We refer the +reader to N° 72. of that work.--D.] + +I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There was nothing +in the maws of those we killed. + +It is worth observing, that for some days before this date, we had +frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. They were of +two sorts, the one much larger than the other, the largest were of +a brown colour; and, of the small sort, either the duck or drake was +black and white, and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also. +Does not this indicate that there must be land to the north, where +these birds find shelter, in the proper season, to breed, and from +whence they were now returning to a warmer climate? + +By the time that we had got our sea-horses on board, we were, in a +manner, surrounded with the ice, and had no way left to clear it, but +by standing to the southward, which was done till three o'clock next +morning, with a gentle breeze westerly, and for the most part, thick, +foggy weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We +then tacked, and stood to the north till ten o'clock, when the wind +veering to the northward, we directed our course to the S.W. and W. At +two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of +which we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses, +for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near +midnight, when we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of +the sea upon the main ice. + +The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now hauled to the +southward; and, at ten o'clock the next morning, the fog clearing +away, we saw the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to +E. by S., and at noon, from S.W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five +leagues distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 69° 32', +and in the longitude of 195° 48'; and as the main ice was at no great +distance from us, it is evident that it now covered a part of the sea, +which, but a few days before, had been clear, and that it extended +farther to the S., than where we first fell in with it. It must not be +understood, that I supposed any part of this ice which we had seen +to be fixed; on the contrary, I am well assured, that the whole was a +moveable mass. + +Having but little wind in the afternoon, I sent the master in a boat, +to try if there was any current, but he found none. I continued to +steer in for the American land, until eight o'clock, in order to get a +nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour; but seeing nothing like +one, I stood again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this +time, the coast, extended from S.W. to E., the nearest part four or +five leagues distant. The southern extreme seemed to form a point, +which was named _Cape Lisburne_. It lies in the latitude of 69° 5', +and in the longitude of 194° 42', and appeared to be pretty high land, +even down to the sea. But there may be low land under it, which we +might not see, being not less than ten leagues distant from it. Every +where else, as we advanced northward, we had found a low coast, from +which the land rises to a middle height. The coast now before us was +without snow, except in one or two places, and had a greenish hue. But +we could not perceive any wood upon it. + +On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather mostly foggy, +with some intervals of sunshine. At eight in the evening it fell calm, +which continued till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sea +against the ice, and had several loose pieces about us. A light breeze +now sprung up at N.E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to +the southward to clear the ice. At eight o'clock next morning, the fog +dispersed, and I hauled to the westward. For, finding that I could not +get to the north near the coast, on account of the ice, I resolved to +try what could be done at a distance from it; and as the wind seemed +to be settled at north, I thought it a good opportunity. + +As we advanced to the west, the water deepened gradually to +twenty-eight fathoms, which was the most we had. With the northerly +wind the air was raw, sharp, and cold, and we had fogs, sunshine, +showers of snow and sleet, by turns. At ten in the morning of the +26th, we fell in with the ice. At noon, it extended from N.W. to E. +by N., and appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, by +observation, in the latitude 69° 36', and in the longitude of 184°; so +that it now appeared we had no better prospect of getting to the north +here, than nearer the shore. + +I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, when +we were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high, and very +close in the N.W. and N.E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice +about the edge of the main field. At this time we had baffling light +winds, but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale, +with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to the +eastward, this being the only direction in which the sea was clear of +ice. + +At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood to the W., +and, at seven in the evening, we were close in with the edge of the +ice, which lay E.N.E., and W.S.W., as far each way as the eye could +reach. Having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine the +state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces, of various +extent, and so close together, that I could hardly enter the outer +edge with a boat; and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it, +as if it had been so many rocks. I took particular notice, that it was +all pure transparent ice, except the upper surface, which was a little +porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to +have been all formed at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or +rather impossibility, of such huge masses floating out of rivers, in +which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions of +the land were found incorporated, or fixed in it, which must have +unavoidably been the case, had it been formed in rivers, either great +or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field, +were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five; and I +judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under +the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable, that +this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone. +I should suppose it rather to have been the production of a great many +winters. Nor was it less improbable, according to my judgment, that +the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of +what now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted upon +it the full influence of his rays. Indeed I am of opinion, that the +sun contributes very little toward reducing these great masses. For +although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it +seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and often is +not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the +waves raised by the wind, that brings down the bulk of these enormous +masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and +washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. +This was evident, from our observing, that the upper surface of many +pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part +remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above +water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the +depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the +ships might have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth, +I would not have believed that there was a sufficient weight of ice +above the surface to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it +may happen, that more ice is destroyed in one stormy season, than is +formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation is prevented. +But that there is always a remaining store, every one who has been +upon the spot will conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers +will dispute.[3] + +[Footnote 3: These observations of Captain Cook, in addition to some +remarks which were formerly given on the subject, seem conclusive +against the supposition of such large masses of ice being the product +of rivers, as has not unfrequently been maintained. They may, however, +have proceeded from land in another way, being occasioned by the +consolidation of snow into such masses as were of sufficient weight +to separate from the declivities where they had been formed. This +undoubtedly may sometimes happen; but the explanation of their origin +formerly offered, seems much more entitled to consideration, as a +generally operating cause. The last remark which Captain Cook makes, +appears to have been levelled at some would-be-wise heads, who had +hazarded reflections about the possibility of some time or other +finding an open sea in high latitudes. But, however illiberally +stated, it is in all probability just, though for a reason unknown to +Cook. The chemical reader will perceive we allude to the circumstance +of the absorption of heat that takes places during the liquefaction +of ice, in consequence of which the temperature of the surrounding +atmosphere is reduced so much, as to prevent any more of the ice being +dissolved. A contrary operation, as is now well known, takes place +during the congelation of water, and heat is evolved. Thus then the +cold of winter is moderated. And so, on the whole, the temperature +is kept more uniform, than, without such adjustment, would be the +case.--E.] + +A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats, +hastened me aboard, rather sooner than I could have wished, with one +sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to +bring them with us. The number of these animals, on all the ice that +we had seen, is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and +on amongst the drift ice; and at nine o'clock the next morning, +the fog having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for +sea-horses. For, by this time, our people began to relish them, and +those we had procured before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude +was 69° 17', our longitude 183°, the variation by the morning +azimuths, 25° 56' E., and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. At +two o'clock, having got on board as much marine beef as was thought +necessary, and the wind freshening at S.S.E., we took on board the +boats, and stretched to the S.W. But not being able to weather the ice +upon this tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the east, +till eight o'clock, then resumed our course to the S.W., and before +midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of the ice. Soon +after, the wind shifted to the N.W., blowing a stiff gale, and we +stretched to the S.W., close hauled. + +In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the northward, and +not long after, land bearing S.W. by W. Presently after this, more +land shewed itself, bearing W. It shewed itself in two hills like +islands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we approached +the land, the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at noon, +when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms, being three miles from the +coast, which extended from S., 30° E., to N., 60° W. This last extreme +terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above mentioned. + +The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain; but +soon after it cleared, especially to the southward, westward, and +northward. This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast, +which, in every respect, is like the opposite one of America; that +is, low land next the sea, with elevated land farther back. It was +perfectly destitute of wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered +with a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. In the low +ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake, +extending to the S.E., farther than we could see. As we stood off, the +westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the bluff +point, in the direction of N.W. It had the appearance of being an +island; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did +not see it. And if so, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between +them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named _Cape North_. +Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68° 56', and in the +longitude of 180° 51'. The coast beyond it must take a very westerly +direction; for we could see no land to the northward of it, though the +horizon was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more of +the coast to the westward, we tacked again at two o'clock in the +afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. But finding we could +not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on, with much snow, and +being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I +had formed of plying to the westward, and stood off shore again. + +The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is +expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent +with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a passage into the +Atlantic this year, in any direction, so little was the prospect of +succeeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out some +place where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the +object uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should spend the winter, so +as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the +same time, be in a condition to return to the north, in farther search +of a passage, the ensuing summer. + + +SECTION X. + +_Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia.--Views of the +Country.--Burner's Island.--Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern Limit +of Beering's Voyage.--Pass the East Cape of Asia.--Description and +Situation of it.--Observations on Muller.--The Tschutski.--Bay +of Saint Laurence.--Two other Bays, and Habitations of the +Natives.--Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi.--Beering's Position of this +Coast accurate.--Island of Saint Laurence.--Pass to the +American Coast.--Cape Darby.--Bald Head.--Cape Denbigh, on a +Peninsula.--Besborough Island.--Wood and Water procured.--Visits +from the Natives.--Their Persons and Habitations.--Produce of the +Country.--Marks that the Peninsula had formerly been surrounded by +the Sea.--Lieutenant King's Report.--Norton Sound.--Lunar Observations +there.--Stæhlin's Map proved to be erroneous,--Plan of future +Operations._ + +After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms water, I +bore up to the eastward, along the coast, which, by this time; it was +pretty certain, could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind +blew fresh, with a very heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was +necessary to proceed with great caution. I therefore brought-to for a +few hours in the night. + +At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered such a course as +I thought would bring us in with the land, being in a great measure +guided by the lead. For the weather was as thick as ever, and it +snowed incessantly. At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing S.W., +four miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water to +seven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or spit, +bore S.S.W., two or three miles distant; to the E. of which there +appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into some water that we saw +over the point. Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here +with the sea. + +At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably +good view of the coast, which extended from S.E. to N.W. by W. Some +parts appeared higher than others; but in general it was very low, +with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered with +snow, which had lately fallen quite down to the sea. I continued to +range along the coast at two leagues distance, till ten at night, +when we hauled off; but we resumed our course next morning, soon after +day-break, when we got sight of the coast again, extending from W. +to S.E. by S. At eight, the eastern part bore S., and proved to be an +island, which at noon bore S.W. 1/2 S., four or five miles distant. It +is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a +steep, rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the main, in +the latitude of 67° 45', and distinguished in the chart by the name of +_Burney's Island_. + +The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which are of +a considerable height. The land was covered with snow, except a few +spots upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than +farther westward. For the two preceding days, the mean height of the +mercury in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing +point, and often below it; so that the water in the vessels upon the +deck was frequently covered with a sheet of ice. + +I continued to steer S.S.E., nearly in the direction of the coast, +till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing S., 50° E., +which we presently found to be a continuation of the coast, and hauled +up for it. Being abreast of the eastern land at ten at night, and in +doubts of weathering it, we tacked, and made a board to the westward, +till past one the next morning, when we stood again to the east, and +found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance from the +coast, the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying continually +from N. to N.E. At half an hour past eight, the eastern extreme above +mentioned bore S. by E., six or seven miles distant. At the same time, +a head-land appeared in sight, bearing E. by S., 1/2 S.; and, soon +after, we could trace the whole coast lying between them, and a small +island at some distance from it. + +The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a low +shore, without the least appearance of a harbour. At some distance +from the sea, the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills. +The highest of these were covered with snow, and, in other respects, +the whole country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, two points of +land, at some distance beyond the eastern head, opened off it, in the +direction of S., 37° E. I was now well assured, of what I had believed +before, that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the N.E. coast +of Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this +head, which Muller says is called _Serdze Kamen_, on account of a +rock upon it, shaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr Muller's +knowledge of the geography of these parts is very imperfect. There are +many elevated rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of +them may have the shape or a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory, +with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and lies in the latitude of +67° 3', and in the longitude of 188° 11'. To the eastward of it, the +coast is high and bold; but to the westward it is low, and trends +N.N.W., and N.W. by W., which is nearly its direction all the way +to Cape North. The soundings are every where the same at the same +distance from the shore, which is also the case on the opposite +shore of America. The greatest depth we found in ranging along it +was twenty-three fathoms. And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the +soundings are no bad guide in sailing along either of these shores. + +At eight o'clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced land +to the S.E., bore S., 25° E., and from this point of view had the +appearance of being an island. But the thick snow showers, which +succeeded one another pretty, fast, and settled upon the land, hid +great part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the +sun, whose face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the +intervals between the showers, and, in some measure, freed the coast +from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be +connected. The wind still continued at north, the air was cold, and +the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 35°, and was sometimes +as low as 30°. At noon the observed latitude was 66° 37', Cape Serdze +Kamen bore N., 52° W., thirteen leagues distant; the southernmost +point of land in sight S., 41° E., the nearest part of the coast two +leagues distant, and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms. + +We had now fair weather and sunshine, and as we ranged along +the coast, at the distance of four miles, we saw several of the +inhabitants, and some of their habitations, which looked like little +hillocks of earth. In the evening we passed the _Eastern Cape_, or the +point above mentioned, from which the coast changes its direction, and +trends S.W. It is the same point of land which we had passed on the +11th of August. They who believed implicitly in Mr Stæhlin's map, then +thought it the east point of his island Alaschka; but we had, by +this time, satisfied ourselves, that it is no other than the eastern +promontory of Asia, and probably the proper _Tschukotskoi Noss_, +though the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to +the S.W. + +Though Mr Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, places the +Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75° of latitude, and extends it somewhat +to the eastward of this cape, it appears to me, that he had no +good authority for so doing. Indeed, his own accounts, or rather +Deshneff's,[1] of the distance between the Noss, and the river Anadir, +cannot be reconciled with this very northerly position. But as I hope +to visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion of this point +till then. In the mean time, I must conclude, as Beering did before +me, that this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of +considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to +appearance, narrow neck of land. It shews a steep rocky clift next the +sea, and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated +in the latitude of 66° 6', and in the longitude of 190° 22', and is +distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, thirteen +leagues, in the direction of N., 53° W. The land about this promontory +is composed of hills and vallies. The former terminate at the sea in +steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills seemed to +be naked rocks; but the vallies had a greenish hue, but destitute of +tree or shrub.[2] + +[Footnote 1: Avec le vent le plus favorable, on peut aller par mer de +cette pointe (des Tschukotschis), jusqu' à l'Anadir en trois fois +24 heures; et par terre le chemin ne peut guère etre plus +long.--_Muller_, p. 13.--D.] + +[Footnote 2: Deshnef's voyage in 1648, is considered the only one +previous to this of Cook, in which the north-eastern extremity of Asia +was doubled. Some account of it is given in Coxe's work. Others have +pretended to this achievement, but there is not evidence to warrant +belief of the fact. Beering, indeed, in 1728, got as far north as +67° 18'; but as he immediately returned, and made no progress on the +Asiatic coast, he is not entitled to this merit, although the extent +of his discovery, as to the separation of the two continents, has +procured him the honour of giving a name to the Strait which divides +them.--E.] + +After passing the cape, I steered S.W. 1/2 W., for the northern point +of St Laurence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last +month. We reached it by eight o'clock next morning, and saw some of +the inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before, as well as +several others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, however, +attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little extraordinary, +as the weather was favourable enough; and those whom we had lately +visited had no reason, that I know of, to dislike our company. These +people must be the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr Muller +wrote, the Russians had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole +of their conduct with us, it appears that they have not, as yet, +brought them under subjection; though it is obvious that they must +have a trade with the Russians, either directly, or by means of some +neighbouring nation, as we cannot otherwise account for their being in +possession of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice. + +This bay of St Laurence[3] is, at least, five leagues broad at the +entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing towards the bottom, +where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, +provided there be a sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not +wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour +in those parts, to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one +where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. +From the south point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65° +30', the coast trends W. by S., for about nine leagues, and there +forms a deep bay, or river, or else the land there is so low that we +could not see it. + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it +on St Laurence's day, August 10. It is remarkable, that Beering sailed +past this very place on the 10th of August 1728; on which account, the +neighbouring island was named by him after the same Saint.--D. + +But Dr Douglas seems to err in this observation. At least, according +to Mr Coxe's account, it would appear, that it was the island of St +Laurence, which we shall immediately find Captain Cook afterwards fell +in with, and not the bay so named, which Beering passed on the 10th +August. This, however, is a trivial correction, if even the imperfect +relation we possess of Beering's progress could prove it to be +one.--E.] + +At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what +was first taken for a rock; but it proved to be a dead whale, which +some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing ashore. +They seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen +by us. This was unnecessary, for we pursued our course, without taking +any notice of them. + +At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the N.W., in order to get a +nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; but the wind, soon +after, veering to that direction, I gave up the design; and steered to +the southward along the coast, past two bays, each about two leagues +deep. The northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by +being rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is an island +lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a +sufficient depth for ships in either of these bays, as we always met +with shoal water, when we edged in for the shore. The country here is +exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground, next +the sea, were the dwellings of the natives; and near all of them were +erected stages of bones, such as before described. These may be seen +at a great distance, on account of their whiteness. + +At noon the latitude was 64° 31', and the longitude 188° 45'; the +southernmost point of the main in sight bore S., 48° W., and the +nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time, the +wind had veered again to the N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather +was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the +coast, as I found that it look a westerly direction toward the Gulf +of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the +southward, in order to get a sight of the island of St Laurence, +discovered by Beering, which accordingly shewed itself, and at eight +o'clock in the evening, it bore S., 20° E., by estimation, eleven +leagues distant. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main +land bore S., 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take this to be +the point which Beering calls the east point of Suchotski, or _Cape +Tschukotskoi_; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it +was from this part of the coast that the natives came off to him, who +called themselves of the nation of Tschutski. I make its latitude to +be 64° 13', and its longitude 186° 36'. + +In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he has +delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude +of the points better than could be expected from the methods he had +to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr Muller's account of +the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr Campbell's +account of it in his edition of Harris's collection, and a map thereto +annexed, which is both more circumstantial and accurate than that of +Mr Muller. + +The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the +more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr Stæhlin's map of the New Northern +Archipelago with my observations; and I had no way to account for the +great difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some part of +what he calls the island of Alaschka for the American continent, and +had missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there +would still have been a considerable difference. It was with me a +matter of some consequence, to clear up this point the present season, +that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as these +northern isles are represented by him as abounding with wood, I was +in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article, +which we now began to be in great want of on board. + +With these views, I steered over for the American coast; and, at five +in the afternoon the next day, saw land bearing S. 1/4 E., which +we took to be Anderson's Island, or some other land near it, and +therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the +morning, we got sight of the American coast near Sledge Island; and +at six, the same evening, this island bore N., 6° E., ten leagues +distant; and the easternmost land in sight N., 49° E. If any part of +what I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the island +of Alaschka, it was that now before us; and in that case, I must have +missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west, +instead of the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not, +therefore, at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these doubts. + +At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in with the land, +Sledge Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or nine leagues distant; +and the eastern part of the coast N. 70° E., with high land in the +direction of E. by N., seemingly at a great distance beyond the +point. At this time we saw a light ashore, and two canoes, filled with +people, coming off toward us. I brought-to, that they might have time +to come up. But it was to no purpose; for, resisting all the signs of +friendship we could exhibit, they kept at the distance of a quarter of +a mile; so that we left them, and pursued our course along the coast. + +At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast, +we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and +then resumed our course along the coast, which we found to trend E., +and E. 1/2 S. At seven in the evening, we were abreast of a point, +lying in the latitude of 64° 21', and in the longitude of 197°, beyond +which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight, this +point, which obtained the name of _Cape Darby_, bore S. 62° W.; the +northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E., and the nearest shore three +miles distant. In this situation we anchored in thirteen fathoms +water, over a muddy bottom. + +Next morning, at day-break, we weighed, and sailed along the coast. +Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at that time seen, the +one bearing S. 70° E., and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves +upon a coast covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which of late +we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we +raised land in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N., which proved to be a +continuation of the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the +islands, seemingly at a good distance beyond them. This was thought +to be the continent, and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it +was already doubtful, whether we should find a passage between them; +for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced further to the north. +In this situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships, and +I ordered the Discovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, +between the coast on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our +starboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon, when, having +passed the island, we had not more than three fathoms and a half of +water, and the Resolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the +bottom. More water was not to be found in any part of the channel, +for, with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side. + +I therefore thought it high time to return, especially as the wind was +in such a quarter that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was +the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the +ships in danger of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west +shore, which is distinguished by the name of _Bald Head_, bore N. by +W., one league distant. The coast beyond it extended as far as N.E. by +N., where it seemed to end in a point, behind which the coast of the +high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself, and some thought +they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the +shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw +a number of huts or habitations of the natives. + +Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break the next morning +we had got into six fathoms water. At nine o'clock, being about a +league from the west shore, I took two boats, and landed, attended by +Mr King, to seek wood and water. We landed where the coast projects +out into a bluff head, composed of perpendicular _strata_ of a rock of +a dark-blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the +beach a narrow border of land, now covered with long grass, and where +we met with some _angelica_. Beyond this, the ground rises abruptly. +At the top of this elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a +variety of berries; and further on, the country was level, and thinly +covered with small spruce-trees, and birch and willows no bigger than +broom-stuff. We observed tracks of deer and foxes on the beach; on +which also lay a great quantity of drift-wood, and there was no want +of fresh water. I returned on board, with an intention to bring the +ships to an anchor here; but the wind then veering to N.E., which blew +rather on this shore, I stretched over to the opposite one, in the +expectation of finding wood there also, and anchored at eight o'clock +in the evening, under the south end of the northernmost island, so +we then supposed it to be; but, next morning, we found it to be a +peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side +of which the coast forms a bay. We plied into the southernmost, and +about noon anchored in five fathoms water, over a bottom of mud; the +point of the peninsula, which obtained the name of _Cape Denbigh_, +bearing N. 68° W., three miles distant. + +Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man came off in a +small canoe. I gave him a knife, and a few beads, with which he seemed +well pleased. Having made signs to him to bring us something to eat, +he immediately left us, and paddled toward the shore. But meeting +another man coming off, who happened to have two dried salmon, he got +them from him; and on returning to the ship, would give them to nobody +but me. Some of our people thought that he asked for me under the name +of _Capitane_; but in this they were probably mistaken. He knew who +had given him the knife and beads, but I do not see how he could know +that I was the captain. Others of the natives soon after came off, and +exchanged a few dry fish, for such trifles as they could get, or we +had to give them. They were most desirous of knives, and they had no +dislike to tobacco. + +After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, to see if +wood and water were there to be got, or rather water; for the whole +beach round the bay seemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the same +time, a boat was sent from each ship, to sound round the bay; and, at +three in the afternoon, the wind freshening at N.E., we weighed, in +order to work farther in. But it was soon found to be impossible, +on account of the shoals, which extended quite round the bay, to the +distance of two or three miles from the shore, as the officers, who +had been sent to sound, reported. We, therefore, kept standing off +and on with the ships, waiting for Mr Gore, who returned about eight +o'clock, with the launch laden with wood. + +He reported, that there was but little fresh water; and that wood +was difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some +distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the +other shore; and, at eight o'clock the next morning, sent all the +boats, and a party of men with an officer, to get wood from the place +where I had landed two days before. We continued for a while to +stand on and off with the ships; but, at length, came to an anchor in +one-fourth less than five fathoms, half a league from the coast, the +south point of which bore S. 26° W.; and Bald Head, N. 60° E., +nine leagues distant. Cape Denbigh bore S. 72° E., twenty-six miles +distant; and the island under the east shore, to the southward of +Cape Denbigh, named _Besborough Island_, S. 52° E., fifteen leagues +distant. + +As this was a very open road, and consequently not a safe station, +I resolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require some +time; but only to supply the ships with wood, and then to go in search +of a more convenient place for the other article. We took off the +drift-wood that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along +shore, the boats could sail both ways, which enabled us to make great +dispatch. + +In the afternoon, I went ashore, and walked a little into the country, +which, where there was no wood, was covered with heath and other +plants, some of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries +were ripe, the hurtle-berries too much so, and hardly a single plant +was in flower. The underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders, +rendered it very troublesome walking amongst the trees, which were all +spruce, and none of them above six or eight inches in diameter. But +we found some lying upon the beach more than twice this size. All the +drift-wood in these northern parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any +other sort. + +Next day, a family of the natives came near to the place where we were +taking off wood. I know not how many there were at first; but I saw +only the husband, the wife, and their child; and a fourth person who +bore the human shape, and that was all; for he was the most deformed +cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind; +and neither he nor his wife were such good-looking people as we had +sometimes seen amongst the natives of this coast. The under-lips +of both were bored; and they had in their possession some such +glass-beads as I had met with before amongst their neighbours. But +iron was their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made out +of an old iron hoop, I got from them near four hundred pounds weight +of fish, which they had caught on this or the preceding day. Some were +trout, and the rest were, in size and taste, somewhat between a mullet +and a herring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads; on which +the mother burst into tears, then the father, then the cripple, and +at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself. But this music +continued not long.[4] Before night, we had got the ships, amply +supplied with wood; and had carried on board about twelve tons of +water to each. + +[Footnote 4: Captain King has communicated the following account of +an interview with the same family: "On the 12th, while I attended the +wooding party, a canoe, full of natives, approached us; and, beckoning +them to land, an elderly man and woman came on shore. I gave the woman +a small knife, making her understand, that I would give, her a much +larger one for some fish. She made signs to me to follow her. I had +proceeded with them about a mile, when the man, in crossing a stony +beach, fell down, and cut his foot very much. This made me stop; upon +which the woman pointed to the man's eyes, which, I observed, were +covered with a thick, white film. He afterward kept close to his wife, +who apprised him of the obstacles in his way. The woman had a little +child on her back, covered with the hood of her jacket; and which I +took for a bundle till I heard it cry. At about two miles distant we +came to their open skin boat, which was turned on its side, the convex +part towards the wind, and served for their house. I was now made to +perform a singular operation on the man's eyes. First, I was directed +to hold my breath; afterwards, to breathe on the diseased eyes; and, +next, to spit on them. The woman then took both my hands, and pressing +them to his stomach, held them there for some time, while she related +some calamitous history of her family; pointing sometimes to her +husband, sometimes to a frightful cripple belonging to the family, and +sometimes to her child. I purchased all the fish they had, consisting +of very fine salmon, salmon-trout, and mullet; which were delivered +most faithfully to the man I sent for them. The man was about five +feet two inches high, and well made; his colour of a light copper; his +hair black and short, and with little beard. He had two holes in his +under-lip, but no ornaments in them. The woman was short and squat, +with a plump round face; wore a deer-skin jacket, with a large hood, +and had on wide boots. The teeth of both were black, and seemed as if +they had been filed down level with the gums. The woman was punctured +from the lip to the chin."--D.] + +On the 14th, a party of men were sent on shore to cut brooms, which +we were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer. +Toward noon, every body was taken on board; for the wind freshening, +had raised such a surf on the beach, that the boats could not continue +to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being still entertained, +whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island or the +American continent; and the shallowness of the water putting it out +of our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King, +with two boats under his command, to make such searches as might leave +no room for a variety of opinions on the subject.[5] Next day, the +ships removed over to the bay, which is on the S.E. side of Cape +Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the +natives came off in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon +for such trifles as our people had to give them. + +[Footnote 5: Captain King has been so good as to communicate his +instructions on this occasion, and the particulars of the fatigue he +underwent, in carrying them into execution: + +"You are to proceed to the northward as far as the extreme point we +saw on Wednesday last, or a little further, if you think it necessary; +land there, and endeavour, from the heights, to discover whether the +land you are then upon, supposed to be the island of Alaschka, is +really an island, or joins to the land on the east, supposed to be the +continent of America. If the former, you are to satisfy yourself with +the depth of water in the channel between them, and which way the +flood-tide comes. But if you find the two lands connected, lose no +time in sounding; but make the best of your way back to the ship, +which you will find at anchor near the point of land we anchored under +on Friday last. If you perceive any likelihood of a change of weather +for the worse, you are, in that case, to return to the ship, although +you have not performed the service you are sent upon; and, at any +rate, you are not to remain longer upon it than four or five days; +but the sooner it is done the better. If any unforeseen or unavoidable +accident should force the ships off the coast, so that they cannot +return at a reasonable time, the rendezvous is at the harbour of +Samganoodha; that is, the place where we last completed our water. + + "JAMES COOK." + +"_To Lieutenant King_." + +"Our cutter being hoisted out, and the signal made for the +Discovery's, at eight o'clock at night on the 14th, we set out. It was +a little unlucky that the boats' crews had been much fatigued during +the whole day in bringing things from the shore. They pulled stoutly, +without rest or intermission, toward the land, till one o'clock in the +morning of the 15th. I wanted much to have gone close to it, to +have had the advantage of the wind, which had, very regularly in the +evening, blown from the land, and in the day-time down the Sound, from +the N.N.E., and was contrary to our course; but the men were at this +time too much fatigued to press them farther. We, therefore, set our +sails, and stood across the bay, which the coast forms to the west of +Baldhead, and steered for it. But, as I expected, by three o'clock, +the wind headed us; and, as it was in vain to endeavour to fetch +Baldhead with our sails, we again took to the oars. The Discovery's +boat, (being a heavy king's-built cutter, while ours was one from +Deal,) had, in the night-time, detained us very much, and now we soon +pulled out of sight of her; nor would I wait, being in great hopes to +reach the extreme point that was in sight time enough to ascend the +heights before dark, as the weather was at this time remarkably clear +and fine, and we could see to a great distance. By two o'clock we had +got within two miles of Baldhead, under the lee of the high land, and +in smooth water; but, at the moment our object was nearly attained, +all the men but two were so overcome with fatigue and sleep, that my +utmost endeavours to make them put on were ineffectual. They at length +dropped their oars, quite exhausted, and fell asleep in the bottom of +the boat. Indeed, considering that they had set out fatigued, and had +now been sixteen hours out of the eighteen since they left the ship, +pulling in a poppling sea, it was no wonder that their strength and +spirits should be worn out for want of sleep and refreshments. The two +gentlemen who were with me and myself, were now obliged to lay hold of +the oars; and, by a little after three, we landed between the Baldhead +and a projecting point to the eastward."--D.] + +At day-break, on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a +visit. They approached the ship with some caution; and evidently +came with no other view than to gratify their curiosity. They drew up +abreast of each other, under our stern, and gave us a song; while one +of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand +antic motions with his hands and body. There was, however, nothing +savage either in the song or in the gestures that accompanied it. None +of us could perceive any difference between these people, either as to +their size or features, and those whom we had met with on every other +part of the coast, King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which +consisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same fashion; +and they observed the custom of boring their under-lips, and fixing +ornaments to them. + +The dwellings of these people were seated close to the beach. They +consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side-walls, composed of +logs, and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with +logs; the entrance is at one end; the fire-place just within it, and a +small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke. + +After breakfast, a party of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms +and spruce. At the same time, half the remainder of the people in +each ship had leave to go and pick berries. These returned on board at +noon, when the other half went on the same errand. The berries to be +got here were wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries, +and heath-berries. I also went ashore myself, and walked over part +of the peninsula. In several places there was very good grass; and +I hardly saw a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The +low land which connects this peninsula with the continent is full of +narrow creeks; and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were +already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustards; but +so shy, that it was not possible to get within musket-shot of them. We +also met with some snipes, and on the high ground were partridges of +two sorts. Where there was any wood, musquitoes were in plenty. Some +of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met with a few of +the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility. + +It appeared to me, that this peninsula must have been an island in +remote times; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the +isthmus. And even now, it appeared to be kept out by a bank of +sand, stones, and wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank, it was +evident, that the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was +easy to trace its gradual formation. + +About seven, in the evening, Mr King returned from his expedition; and +reported, that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues +farther than the ships had been able to go; that he then landed on the +west side; that, from the heights, he could see the two coasts join, +and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which +were banks of sand or mud; and every where shoal water. The land, too, +was low and swampy for some distance to the northward; then it swelled +into hills; and the complete junction of those, on each side of the +inlet, was easily traced. + +From the elevated spot on which Mr King surveyed the Sound, he could +distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running through them, +well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate +height. One of these rivers to the N.W. appeared to be considerable; +and from its direction, he was inclined to think, that it emptied +itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who +penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger the +farther they advanced.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Here Mr Arrowsmith's map is to be preferred, as +accurately following the description Captain King has given. Several +names are omitted by Mr Coxe, and his delineation of the coast is +rather unsatisfactory.--E.] + +In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton,[7] Speaker of the House of Commons, +and Mr King's nearest relation, I named this inlet _Norton Sound_. It +extends to the northward as far as the latitude of 64° 55'. The bay, +in which we were now at anchor, lies on the S.E. side of it; and is +called by the natives _Chacktoole_. It is but an indifferent station, +being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a +harbour in all this Sound. But we were so fortunate as to have the +wind from the N. and N.E. all the time, with remarkable fine weather. +This gave us an opportunity to make no less than seventy-seven sets of +lunar observations between the 6th and 7th inclusive. The mean result +of these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side +of the Sound, to be + + 197° 13' + Latitude 64 31 + Variation of the compass 25 45 east. + Dip of the needle 76 25 + +[Footnote 7: Afterwards Lord Grantley.] + +Of the tides, it was observed, that the night-flood rose about two or +three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable. + +Having now fully satisfied myself, that Mr Stæhlin's map must be +erroneous; and having restored the American continent to that space +which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was +high time to think of leaving these northern regions, add to retire to +some place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for +my people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the +harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely +to furnish either the one or the other for so large a number of men. +I had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time. +The first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike +I had to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would have been +the necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts. +No place was so conveniently within our reach, where we could +expect to have our wants relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them, +therefore, I determined to proceed. But, before this could be carried +into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With this view I +resolved to search the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding +along it to the southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey +of this part of it with that lying immediately to the north of Cape +Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there my plan was then +to proceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon as our place of +rendezvous, in case of separation. + + +SECTION XI. + +_Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound.--Stuart's Island.--Cape +Stephens.--Point Shallow-Water.--Shoals on the American +Coast.--Clerke's Island.--Gore's Island.--Pinnacle Island.--Arrival at +Oonalashka.--Intercourse with the Natives and Russian Traders.--Charts +of the Russian Discoveries, communicated by Mr Ismyloff.--Their +Errors pointed out.--Situation of the Islands visited by the +Russians.--Account of their Settlement at Oonalashka.--Of the Natives +of the Island.--Their Persons.--Dress.--Ornaments.--Food.--Houses +and domestic Utensils.--Manufactures.--Manner of producing +Fire.--Canoes.--Fishing and Hunting Implements.--Fishes, and Sea +Animals.--Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.--Land Animals and +Vegetables.--Manner of burying the Dead.--Resemblance of the +Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and +Esquimaux.--Tides.--Observations for determining the Longitude of +Oonalashka._ + +Having weighed, on the 17th in the morning, with a light breeze +at east, we steered to the southward, and attempted to pass within +Besborough Island; but though it lies six or seven miles from the +continent, were prevented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but +little wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and +the night was spent under an easy sail. + +We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along the coast. +At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the +latitude was 63° 37'. Besborough, Island now bore N., 42° E.; the +southernmost land in sight, which proved also to be an island, S., 66° +W.; the passage between it and the main S., 40° W.; and the nearest +land about two miles distant. I continued to steer for this passage, +until the boats, which were ahead, made the signal for having no more +than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the island; and +made the signal for the Resolution's boat to keep between the ships +and the shore. + +This island, which obtained the name of _Stuart's Island_, lies in the +latitude of 63° 35', and seventeen leagues from. Cape Denbigh, in the +direction of S., 27° W. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some +parts of it are of a middling height; but, in general, it is low; with +some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is, +for the most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. It +forms a point, opposite the island, which was named _Cape Stephens_, +and lies in latitude 63° 33', and in longitude 197° 41'. Some +drift wood was seen upon the shores, both of the island and of the +continent; but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might +anchor, upon occasion, between the N.E. side of this island and +the continent, in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerly, +southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wholly +exposed to the northerly winds, the land, in that direction, being at +too great distance to afford any security. Before we reached Stuart's +Island, we passed two small islands, lying between us and the main; +and as we ranged along the coast, several people appeared upon the +shore, and, by signs, seemed to invite us to approach them. + +As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W., for the +southernmost point of the continent in sight, till eight o'clock in +the evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less +than four, I tacked, and stood to the northward, into five fathoms, +and then spent the night plying off and on. At the time we tacked, the +southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was +named _Point Shallow-Water_, bore S. 1/2 E., seven leagues distant. + +We resumed our course to the southward at day-break next morning, but +shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length, we got +so far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a N.N.W. course, +meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at +E.N.E. it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast, +upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I +therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deepened the +water to eight fathoms. At the same time we hauled the wind, we were +at least twelve leagues, from the continent, and nine to the westward +of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point +Shallow-Water, which I judge to lie in the latitude of 63°. So that, +between this latitude and Shoal Ness, in latitude 60°, the coast is +entirely unexplored. Probably, it is accessible only to boats, or very +small vessels; or at least, if there be channels for large vessels, it +would require some time to find them; and I am of opinion, that they +must be looked for near the coast. From the mast-head, the sea within +us appeared to be chequered with shoals; the water was very much +discoloured and muddy, and considerably fresher than at any of the +places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, that a +considerable river runs into the sea in this unknown part.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Mr Arrowsmith has filled up the coast betwixt the two +points now mentioned, and supplied it also with rivers, according to +the conjecture of Captain Cook. But it is obvious, that this is not +sufficient authority; and therefore, unless better be given, Mr Coxe +seems to have done more correctly, in indicating the space by a dotted +line, the usual mark of an unexplored region.--E.] + +As soon as we got into eight fathoms water, I steered to the westward, +and afterward more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, +which, at noon the next day, bore S.W. by W., ten or eleven leagues +distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at north, with showers of +hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea; so that we got +clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land +before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named +it _Clerke's Island_. It lies in the latitude of 63° 15', and in the +longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to be a pretty large island, in which +are four or more hills, all connected by low ground; so that, at a +distance, it looks like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a +small island, remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not +only the greater island, but this small spot, was inhabited.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is somewhat singular, that neither Arrowsmith nor Coxe +mentions Anderson's Island. The former, on additional authority, has +marked but one island in the position specified, under the name of +Eivoogiena, or Clerke's Island.--E.] + +We got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about six o'clock, +and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought-to during the +night. At day-break, next morning, we stood in again for the coast, +and continued to range along it in search of a harbour till noon; +when, seeing no likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered +S.S.W. for the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July, +having a fresh gale at north, with showers of sleet and snow. I +remarked, that as soon as we opened the channel which separates +the two continents, cloudy weather, with snow showers, immediately +commenced; whereas, all the time we were in Norton Sound, we had, +with the same wind, clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by +the mountains to the north of that place attracting the vapours, and +hindering them to proceed any farther? + +At day-break, in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned +appeared in sight, bearing S.W., six or seven leagues distant. From +this point of view it resembled a group of islands; but it proved to +be but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N.W. and +S.E.; the S.E. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The +island is but narrow; especially at the low necks of land that connect +the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly unknown to the +Russians; and therefore, considering it as a discovery of our own, +I named it _Gore's Island_. It appeared to be barren, and without +inhabitants; at least we saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about +it as when we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters; an +animal which we had not met with to the northward of this latitude.[3] +Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of S., 72° W., lies +a small island, whose elevated summit terminates in several pinnacled +rocks. On this account it was named _Pinnacle Island_. At two in +the afternoon, after passing Cape Upright, I steered S.E. by S., for +Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at N.N.W., being resolved to spend +no more time in searching for a harbour amongst islands, which I now +began to suspect had no existence; at least not in the latitude and +longitude where modern map-makers have thought proper to place them. +In the evening of the 24th, the wind veered to S.W. and S., and +increased to a fresh gale. + +[Footnote 3: Mr Arrowsmith, as in the case of the island mentioned in +the last note, has given the native name to this island, viz. Matwi, +retaining also, however, the name of Gore.--E.] + +We continued to stretch to the eastward, till eight o'clock in the +morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 191° 10', we tacked +and stood to the west; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were +reduced to two courses, and close-reefed main top-sails. Not long +after, the Resolution sprung a leak, under the starboard buttock, +which filled the spirit-room with water before it was discovered; and +it was so considerable as to keep one pump constantly employed. We +durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of getting upon +the shoals that lie to the N.W. of Cape Newenham; but continued +standing to the west till six in the evening of the 26th, when we wore +and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no longer troubled us. +This proved that it was above the water line, which was no small +satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained at S. and +S.W. for some days longer. + +At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we saw the island of +Oonalashka, bearing S.E. But as this was to us a new point of view, +and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our +situation till noon, when the observed latitude determined it. As +all harbours were alike to me, provided they were equally safe and +convenient, I hauled into a bay, that lies ten miles to the westward +of Samganoodha, known by the name of _Egoochshac_; but we found very +deep water; so that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many +of whom lived here, visited us at different times, bringing with them +dried salmon and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for +tobacco. But, a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in +the ship had been distributed among them; and the quantity was not +half sufficient to answer their demands. Notwithstanding this, so +improvident a creature is an English sailor, that they were as profuse +in making their bargains, as if we had now arrived at a port in +Virginia; by which means, in less than eight and forty hours, the +value of this article of barter was lowered above a thousand per cent. + +At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha +harbour; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to +work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale, on the starboard +side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite open; so that it was +no wonder that so much water had found its way into the ship. While +we lay here, we cleared the fish and spirit rooms, and the after-hold; +disposing things in such a manner, that in case we should happen to +have any more leaks of the same nature, the water might find its way +to the pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we +cleared the fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a quantity of +ballast. + +The vegetables which we had met with when we were here before, were +now mostly in a state of decay; so that we were but little benefited +by the great quantities of berries every where found ashore. In order +to avail ourselves as much as possible of this useful refreshment, +one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. +Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives. +If there were any seeds of the scurvy, in either ship, these berries, +and the use of spruce beer, which they had to drink every other day, +effectually eradicated them. + +We also got plenty of fish; at first mostly salmon, both fresh and +dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in +high perfection; but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed, +from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the +seine several times, at the head of the bay; and caught a good +many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and +fifty-four pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and +lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without +eight or ten halibut; which was more than sufficient to serve all +our people. The halibut was excellent, and there were few who did not +prefer them to salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply of fish +for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This +enabled us to make a considerable saving of our provisions, which was +an object of no small importance. + +On the 8th, I received, by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named +Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering the place. It was a +rye loaf, or rather a pye made in, the form of a loaf, for it inclosed +some salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like +present for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a +character which none of us could read. It was natural to suppose, +that this present was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood; and +therefore we sent, by the same hand, to these our unknown friends, +a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter; which we thought would be as +acceptable as anything we had besides; and we soon knew that in +this we had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk, +Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, with orders, +that if he met with any Russians, he should endeavour to make them +understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their +nation.[4] + +[Footnote 4: We must be allowed to notice some particulars in the +history of this remarkable enough man, well known, it is probable, +to most readers, who have been interested in the operations of the +African Association, but, perhaps, not immediately recognised in +the humble situation of a corporal of marines. Some years after this +voyage, viz. in 1786, Lediard, by birth an American, resolved on a +pedestrian excursion across his native continent; for which purpose, +he, first of all, fixed on travelling to Siberia, whence he expected +to be able to obtain a passage to its north-west coast. Sir Joseph +Banks, and other gentlemen, favouring his project, subscribed a sum of +money, not much exceeding fifty pounds, to enable him to put it into +execution. He proceeded to Hamburgh; from thence to Copenhagen; and, +as the gulf of Bothnia was not frozen over, actually walked round its +shores by the way of Tornea, till he arrived at Petersburgh, in the +beginning of March 1787. Here he remained till May, when he obtained +permission to go with a convoy of military stores, intended for +Captain Billings, formerly his ship-mate in Cook's voyage, and now +waiting for it to commence his own examination of the American +coast, &c. With this convoy, Lediard, in the month of August, reached +Irkutsk, in Siberia, at which place, after having gone to Yakutsk, +where he met with Billings, he purposed to remain a part of the +winter, till an opportunity occurred of going to Ochotsk, from which +his passage to America seemed very practicable. So far, then, he +had to congratulate himself on his success. But his enterprise was +speedily interrupted, and all his hopes frustrated, by an order from +the empress; in consequence of which he was arrested, and, under the +guard of an officer and two soldiers, hurried off in a sledge for +Moscow, without being suffered to carry with him either his clothes, +his money, or his papers. The reason of this extraordinary conduct has +not been explained in the communication made by Sir Joseph Banks +to the Biographia Britannica, from which we have collected these +particulars. We are told, however, that the disappointed adventurer +was successively conveyed from Moscow to Moialoff, in White Russia, +and Tolochin, in Poland; at which last place, he was informed, that +the empress had directed he should never enter her dominions again +without her express permission. During the whole of his route, since +he had been made a prisoner, he suffered extreme hardship from ill +health, fatigue, and mortification. At last he reached Konigsberg; +and, to use his own words, in a letter to his patron, after "a +miserable journey, in a miserable country, in a miserable season, in +miserable health, and with a miserable purse," arrived in England. +The ardour of his mind, however, was still entire; and he appeared +as ready as ever to engage in any service, however perilous, which +promised to gratify his own curiosity, and was recommended by men +whose judgment he respected. Accordingly, almost immediately on his +return, it was proposed to him to undertake the first speculative +excursion which the society alluded to projected. On this occasion it +was, as is noticed by the ingenious Mr Forster, in his valuable Essay +on Decision of Character, that he surprised the official person, +who put the Question to him, "When he would be ready for his African +journey?" by instantly answering, "To-morrow!" It may be doubted, +if his acquirements were altogether equally well suited to this +undertaking, as his undaunted spirit and enterprising disposition. +These, indeed, promised interest; and no one could hesitate to +believe, that he would zealously employ every faculty he possessed in +accomplishing the objects committed to him. It was appointed him to +traverse the continent of Africa from east to west, in the latitude of +the river Niger. But this he never accomplished; as, on his arrival at +Cairo, he was seized with a bilious disorder, which terminated in his +death. So much, it seemed but justice to record in this place, of the +person now employed by Captain Cook.--E.] + +On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Russian seamen, or furriers, +who, with some others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had a +dwelling-house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons +burthen. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel, +another of them wrote a very good hand and understood figures, and +they were all three well-behaved intelligent men, and very ready +to give me all the information I could desire. But for want of an +interpreter, we had some difficulty to understand each other. They +appeared to have a thorough knowledge of the attempts that had been +made by their countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of +the discoveries which had been made from Kamtschatka, by Beering, +Tscherikoff, and Spanberg. But they seemed to know no more of +Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, than his name.[5] Nor had they the least +idea what part of the world Mr Stæhlin's map referred to, when it was +laid before them. When I pointed out Kamtschatka, and some other known +places, upon that map, they asked, whether I had seen the islands +there laid down; and on my answering in the negative, one of them +put his finger upon a part of this map, where a number of islands are +represented, and said, that he had cruized there for land, but never +could find any. I then laid before them my own chart, and found that +they were strangers to every part of the American coast, except what +lies opposite this island. One of these men said, that he had been +with Beering in his American voyage, but must then have been very +young, for he had not now, at the distance of thirty-seven years, the +appearance of being aged. Never was there greater respect paid to +the memory of any distinguished person, than by these men to that of +Beering.[6] The trade in which they are engaged is very beneficial; +and its being undertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamtschatka, +was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of that able +navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the source of much private +advantage to individuals, and of public utility to the Russian nation. +And yet, if his distresses had not accidentally carried him to die in +the island which bears his name, and from whence the miserable remnant +of his ship's crew brought back sufficient specimens of its valuable +furs, probably the Russians never would have undertaken any future +voyages, which could lead them to make discoveries in this sea, toward +the coast of America. Indeed, after his time, government seems to have +paid less attention to this; and we owe what discoveries have been +since made, principally to the enterprising spirit of private traders, +encouraged, however, by the superintending care of the court of +Petersburg. The three Russians having remained with me all night, +visited Captain Clerke next morning, and then left us, very well +satisfied with the reception they had met with, promising to return +in a few days, and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying +between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka. + +[Footnote 5: See the little that is known of Synd's voyage, +accompanied with a chart, in Mr Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. +300.--D.] + +[Footnote 6: This may be considered as a very decisive testimony to +the truth of the character given of him in Mr Coxe's publication. +We are indebted to the same work for ample evidence in proof of the +following remarks of Captain Cook--E.] + +On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr Webber and I were at a village +at a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian landed there, who, I +found, was the principal person amongst his countrymen in this and the +neighbouring islands. His name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin Ismyloff. +He arrived in a canoe carrying three persons, attended by twenty or +thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice, that +the first thing they did after landing, was to make a small tent for +Ismyloff, of materials which they brought with them, and then they +made others for themselves, of their canoes and paddles, which they +covered with grass; so that the people of the village were at no +trouble to find them lodging. Ismyloff having invited us into his +tent, set before us some dried salmon and berries, which, I was +satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared to be a sensible +intelligent man; and I felt no small mortification in not being able +to converse with him, unless by signs, assisted by figures and other +characters, which however were a very great help. I desired to see +him on board the next day; and accordingly he came, with all his +attendants. Indeed, he had moved into our neighbourhood, for the +express purpose of waiting upon us. + +I was in hopes to have had by him, the chart which his three +countrymen had promised, but I was disappointed. However, he assured +me I should have it; and he kept his word. I found that he was very +well acquainted with the geography of these parts, and with all the +discoveries that had been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the +modern maps, he at once pointed out their errors. He told me, he +had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd as he called him, in his +expedition to the north; and, according to his account, they did not +proceed farther than the Tschukotskoi Noss, or rather than the bay +of St Laurence, for he pointed on our chart to the very place where I +landed. From thence, he said, they went to an island in latitude 63°, +upon which they did not land, nor could he tell me its name. But I +should guess it to be the same to which I gave the name of Clerke's +Island. To what place Synd went after that, or in what manner he spent +the two years, during which, as Ismyloff said, his researches lasted, +he either could not or would not inform us. Perhaps he did not +comprehend our enquiries about this; and yet, in almost every other +thing, we could make him understand us. This created a suspicion, +that he had not really been in that expedition, notwithstanding his +assertion. + +Both Ismyloff and the others affirmed, that they knew nothing of the +continent of America to the northward; and that neither Lieutenant +Synd, nor any other Russian, had ever seen it. They call it by +the same name which Mr Stæhlin gives to his great island, that is +Alaschka. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a +name quite unknown to these people, natives of the islands as well as +Russians; but both, of them know it by the name of America. From what +we could gather from Ismyloff and his countrymen, the Russians +have made several attempts to get a footing upon that part of this +continent that lies contiguous to Oonalashka and the adjoining +islands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they +describe as a very treacherous people. They mentioned two or three +captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them; and some of the +Russians shewed us wounds which, they said, they had received there. + +Some other information which we got from Ismyloff is worth recording, +whether true or false. He told us, that in the year 1773, an +expedition had been made into the Frozen Sea in sledges, over the +ice, to three large islands that lie opposite the mouth of the river +Kovyma. We were in some doubt, whether he did not mean the same +expedition of which Muller gives an account; and yet he wrote down the +year, and marked the islands on the chart.[7] But a voyage which he +himself had performed, engaged our attention more than any other. He +said, that on the 12th of May, 1771, he sailed from Bolscheretzk, in +a Russian vessel, to one of the Kuril islands, named Mareekan, in the +latitude of 47°, where there is a harbour, and a Russian settlement. +From this island, he proceeded to Japan, where be seems to have made +but a short stay. For when the Japanese came to know that he and his +companions were Christians, they made signs for them to be gone; but +did not, so far as we could understand him, offer any insult or force. +From Japan, he got to Canton, and from thence to France, in a French +ship. From France, he travelled to Petersburgh, and was afterward sent +out again to Kamtschatka. What became of the vessel in which he first +embarked, we could not learn, nor what was the principal object of +the voyage. His not being able to speak one word of French, made this +story a little suspicious. He did not even know the name of any one of +the most common things that must have been in use every day, while he +was on board the ship, and in France. And yet he seemed clear as to +the times of his arriving at the different places, and of his leaving +them, which he put down in writing.[8] + +[Footnote 7: The latest expedition of this kind, taken notice of by Mr +Muller, was in 1724. But in justice to Mr Ismyloff, it may be proper +to mention, which is done on the authority of a MS. communicated by +Mr Pennant, and the substance of which has been published by Mr +Coxe, that, so late as 1768, the Governor of Siberia sent three young +officers over the ice in sledges to the islands opposite the mouth of +the Kovyma. There seems no reason for not supposing, that a subsequent +expedition of this sort might also be undertaken in 1773. Mr Coxe, p. +324, places the expedition on sledges in 1764, but Mr Pennant's MS. +may be depended upon.--D.] + +[Footnote 8: There is nothing at all unlikely in the voyage now spoken +of. According to Captain Krusenstern, whose information is in all +probability quite unexceptionable, the Kuril islands and Jesso have +been often visited by Russian merchants since 1741, when Spanberg +and Walton reached the coast of Japan; though without any positive +advantage, he says, accruing either to science or commerce from their +visits.--E.] + +The next morning, he would fain have made me a present of a sea-otter +skin, which, he said, was worth eighty rubles at Kamtschatka. However, +I thought proper to decline it; but I accepted of some dried fish, and +several baskets of the lily, or _saranne_ root, which is described at +large in the History of Kamtschatka.[9] In the afternoon, Mr Ismyloff, +after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, +promising to return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he made +us another visit, and brought with him the charts before-mentioned, +which he allowed me to copy, and the contents of which furnish matter +for the following observations:-- + +There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing every mark of +authenticity. The first comprehended the _Penschinskian Sea_, the +coast of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41°, the Kuril islands, +and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. Since this map had been made, +Wawseelee Irkecchoff, captain of the fleet, explored, in 1758, the +coast of Tartary, from Okotsk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 41° +of latitude. Mr Ismyloff also informed us, that great part of the +sea-coast of the peninsula of Kamtschatka had been corrected by +himself, and described the instrument he made use of, which must have +been a _theodolite_. He also informed us, that there were only two +harbours fit for shipping, on all the east coast of Kamtschatka, viz. +the bay of _Awatska_, and the river _Olutora_, in the bottom of the +gulf of the same name, that there was not a single harbour upon its +west coast, and that _Yamsk_ was the only one on all the west side of +the Penschinskian Sea, except Okotsk, till we come to the river Amur. +The Kuril islands afford only one harbour, and that is on the N.E. +side of Mareekan, in the latitude of 47-1/2°, where, as I have before +observed, the Russians have a settlement. + +[Footnote 9: English translation, p. 83, 84.] + +The second chart was to me the most interesting; for it comprehended +all the discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of +Kamtschatka, toward America, which, if we exclude the voyage of +Beering and Tscherikoff, will amount to little or nothing. The part of +the American coast, with which the latter fell in, is marked in this +chart, between the latitude of 58° and 58-1/2°, and 75° of longitude +from Okotsk, or, 218-1/2° from Greenwich; and the place where the +former anchored, in 59-1/2° of latitude, and 63-1/2° of longitude from +Okotsk, or 207° from Greenwich. To say nothing of the longitude, +which may be erroneous from many causes, the latitude of the coast, +discovered by these two navigators, especially the part of it +discovered by Tscherikoff, differs considerably from the account +published by Mr Muller, and his chart. Indeed, whether Muller's +chart, or this now produced by Mr Ismyloff, be most erroneous in this +respect, it may be hard to determine, though it is not now a point +worth discussing. But the islands that lie dispersed between 52° and +55° of latitude, in the space between Kamtschatka and America, deserve +some notice. According to Mr Ismyloff's account, neither the number +nor the situation of these islands is well ascertained. He struck out +about one-third of them, assuring me they had no existence, and he +altered the situation of others considerably, which, he said, was +necessary, from his own observations. And there was no reason to doubt +about this. As these islands lie all nearly under the same parallel, +different navigators, being misled by their different reckonings, +might easily mistake one island, or group of islands, for another, and +fancy they had made a new discovery, when they had only found old ones +in a different position from that assigned to them by their former +visitors. + +The islands of St Macarius, St Stephen, St Theodore, St Abraham, +Seduction Island, and some others, which are to be found in Mr +Muller's chart, had no place in this now produced to us; nay, both Mr +Ismyloff, and the others, assured me, that they had been several times +sought for in vain. And yet it is difficult to believe how Mr Muller, +from whom subsequent map-makers have adopted them, could place them in +this chart without some authority. Relying, however, on the testimony +of these people, whom I thought competent witnesses, I have left them +out of my chart, and made such corrections amongst the other islands +as I was told was necessary. I found there was wanting another +correction; for the difference of longitude, between the Bay of +Awatska, and the harbour of Samganoodha, according to astronomical +observations, made at these two places, is greater by five degrees +and a half, than it is by the chart. This error I have supposed to +be infused throughout the whole, though it may not be so in reality. +There was also an error in the latitude of some places, but this +hardly exceeded a quarter of a degree. + +I shall now give some account of the islands, beginning with those +that lie nearest to Kamtschatka, and reckoning the longitude from +the harbour of Petropaulowska, in the Bay of Awatska. The first is +_Beering's Island_, in 55° of latitude, and 6° of longitude. Ten +leagues from the south end of this, in the direction of E. by S., or +E.S.E., lies _Meidenoi Ostroff_, or the Copper Island. The next island +is _Atakou_, laid down in 52° 45' of latitude, and in 15° or 16° of +longitude. This island is about eighteen leagues in extent, in the +direction of E. and W., and seems to be the same land which Beering +fell in with, and named _Mount St John_. But there are no islands +about it, except two inconsiderable ones, lying three or four leagues +from the east end, in the direction of E.N.E. + +We next come to a group, consisting of six or more islands, two of +which, _Atghka_ and _Amluk_ are tolerably large, and in each of them +is a good harbour. The middle of this group lies in the latitude of +52° 30', and 28° of longitude from Awatska, and its extent, E. and W., +is four degrees. These are the isles that Mr Ismyloff said were to be +removed four degrees to the E., which was done. And in the situation +they have in my chart, was a group, consisting of ten small islands, +which, I was told, were wholly to be struck out, and also two islands +lying between them and the group to which Oonalashka belongs. In the +place of these two, an island called Amoghta (which in the chart was +situated in the latitude of 51° 45', and 4° of longitude to the W.) +was brought. + +Nothing more need be said to shew how erroneous the situation of many +of these islands may be, and for which I am in nowise accountable. But +the position of the largest group, of which Oonalashka is one of the +principal islands, and the only one in which there is a harbour, is +not liable to any such errors. Most of these islands were seen by +us, and consequently their latitude and longitude were pretty exactly +determined, particularly the harbour of Samganoodha in Oonalashka, +which must be looked upon as a fixed point. This group of islands +maybe said to extend as far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leagues +from Oonalashka toward the E.N.E. Within these isles, a passage was +marked in Ismyloff's chart, communicating with Bristol Bay, which +converts about fifteen leagues of the coast, that I had supposed to +belong to the continent, into an island, distinguished by the name of +_Ooneemak_. This passage might easily escape us, as we were informed, +that it is very narrow, shallow, and only to be navigated through with +boats, or very small vessels.[10] + +[Footnote 10: This passage is marked on all the modern maps, no doubt +on the somewhat scanty authority here given. With respect to most of +the islands now alluded to, the opinion entertained of their utter +insignificance, will account for and perhaps justify the sparing +solicitude we have used to ascertain their number and position. Some +less suspicious data than are to be met with in the accounts of early +Russian voyages, would be requisite, to induce much attention to a +subject of even greater importance.--E.] + +It appeared by the chart, as well as by the testimony of Ismyloff and +the other Russians, that this is as far as their countrymen have made +any discoveries, or have extended themselves, since Beering's time. +They all said, that no Russians had settled themselves so far to the +east as the place where the natives gave the note to Captain Clerke, +which Mr Ismyloff, to whom I delivered it, on perusing it, said, had +been written at Oomanak. It was, however, from him that we got the +name of _Kodiak_, the largest of Schumagin's Islands; for it had no +name upon the chart produced by him.[11] The names of all the other +islands were taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by +him. He said, they were all such as the natives themselves called +their islands by; but, if so, some of the names seem to have been +strangely altered. It is worth observing, that no names were put to +the islands which Ismyloff told us were to be struck out of the +chart, and I considered this as some confirmation that they have no +existence. + +[Footnote 11: A Russian ship had been at Kodiak in 1776, as appears +from a MS. obligingly communicated by Mr Pennant.--D.] + +I have already observed, that the American continent is here called +by the Russians, as well as by the islanders, Alaschka; which name, +though it properly belong only to the country adjoining to Oonemak, is +used by them when speaking of the American continent in general, which +they know perfectly well to be a great land. + +This is all the information I got from these people, relating to the +geography of this part of the world; and I have reason to believe that +this was all the information they were able to give. For they assured +me, over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides +those which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had +ever seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, +except that which lies opposite the country of the Tschutskis. + +If Mr Stæhlin was not grossly imposed upon, what could induce him +to publish a map so singularly erroneous, and in which many of these +islands are jumbled together in regular confusion, without the least +regard to truth; and yet he is pleased to call it _a very accurate +little map_.[12] Indeed, it is a map to which the most illiterate of +his illiterate sea-faring countrymen would have been ashamed to set +his name. + +[Footnote 12: Stæhlin's New Northern Archipelago, p. 15.] + +Mr Ismyloff remained with us till the 21st, in the evening, when he +took his final leave. To his care I intrusted a letter to the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was inclosed a chart of +all the northern coasts I had visited. He said there would be an +opportunity of sending it to Kamtschatka, or Okotsk, the ensuing +spring, and that it would be at Petersburg the following winter. He +gave me a letter to Major Behm, governor of Kamtschatka, who +resides at Bolscheretsk, and another to the commanding officer, +at Petropaulowska. Mr Ismyloff seemed to have abilities that might +entitle him to a higher station in life, than that in which we found +him. He was tolerably well versed in astronomy, and in the most useful +branches of the mathematics. I made him a present of an Hadley's +octant; and though, probably, it was the first he had ever seen, he +made himself acquainted, in a very short time, with most of the uses +to which that instrument can be applied. + +In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get to sea, with +the wind at S.E., which miscarried. The following afternoon, we were +visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposnicoff, a Russian, who commanded +a boat, or small vessel, at Oomanak. This man had a great share of +modesty, and would drink no strong liquor, of which the rest of his +countrymen, whom we had met with here, were immoderately fond. He +seemed to know more accurately what supplies could be got at the +harbour of Petropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, +than Mr Ismyloff. But, by all accounts, every thing we should want +at that place was very scarce, and bore a high price. Flour, for +instance, was from three to five roubles the pood,[13] and deer from +three to five roubles each. This man told us that he was to be at +Petropaulowska in May next, and, as I understood, was to have the +charge of my letter. He seemed to be exceedingly desirous of having +some token from me to carry to Major Behm, and to gratify him, I sent +a small spying-glass. + +[Footnote 13: 36 lb.] + +After we became acquainted with these Russians, some of our gentlemen, +at different times, visited their settlement on the island, where +they always met with a hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a +dwelling-house and two store-houses. And, besides the Russians, there +was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the natives, as servants, +or slaves, to the former. Some others of the natives, who seemed +independent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them +as belonged to the Russians were all males, and they are taken, or +perhaps purchased, from their parents when young. There was, at this +time, about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other +light than, as children. They all live in the same house; the Russians +at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the natives at +the lower end, where is fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, +which consists chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addition of +wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the first +and last table, besides what is produced by cookery, in which the +Russians have the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have eat +whale's flesh of their dressing, which I thought very good; and they +made a kind of pan-pudding of salmon roe, beaten up fine, and fried, +that is no bad _succedaneum_ for bread. They may, now and then, taste +real bread, or have a dish in which flour is an ingredient; but this +can only be an occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries +which they sip at their meals, they have no other liquor besides pure +water; and it seems to be very happy for them that they have nothing +stronger. + +As the island supplies them with food, so it does, in a great measure, +with clothing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is, perhaps, the +best they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner's +frock, and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this, they wear a +waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pair of boots, +the soles and upper leathers of which are of Russian leather, but the +legs are made of some kind of strong gut. Their two chiefs, Ismyoff +and Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock, and they, as well as some +others, had shirts, which were of silk. These, perhaps, were the only +part of their dress not made amongst themselves. + +There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands between +Oonalashka and Kamtschatka, for the sole purpose of collecting furs. +Their great object is the sea-beaver or otter. I never heard them +enquire after any other animal; though those, whose skins are of +inferior value, are also made part of their cargoes. I never thought +to ask how long they have had a settlement upon Oonalashka, and the +neighbouring isles; but to judge from the great subjection the natives +are under, this cannot be of a very late date.[14] All these furriers +are relieved, from time to time, by others. Those we met with arrived +here from Okotsk, in 1776, and are to return in 1781; so that their +stay at the island will be four years at least.[15] + +[Footnote 14: The Russians began to frequent Oonalashka in 1762. See +_Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, ch. viii. p. 80.--D.] + +[Footnote 15: Captain Cook says nothing of the condition of these +furriers, and probably indeed knew nothing of it. According to +Krusenstern, who cannot be supposed to seek for occasion to censure +his countrymen, it is wretched in the extreme. He himself admits that +his transcript, though softened down from his original notes made at +the time, will nevertheless expose him to the anger of a number of +persons for whom, in other respects, he entertains the highest regard. +But one may question if any of the accounts that have been given of +the African slave-trade produce greater horror than this modified +description occasions. The reader must not imagine that the physical +difficulties of the climate constitute the misery of these deluded +beings. These are certainly very formidable, and of themselves present +a sufficient barrier to the enjoyment of any thing bearing the shape +of comfort. But evils of another sort, arising from avarice and the +abuse of power, are so galling, as would induce a man "to fly from +even the most beautiful and the best-gifted country," if his +residence in it subjected him to their tyranny. The agents of the +Russian-American Company, as the reader will instantly divine, are +chargeable with the enormous barbarity and injustice to which these +remarks apply; and the fearless seaman does not scruple to expose +them to public indignation, in consequence. We shall communicate a +few particulars, referring those who desire more information on the +subject to the work itself. The persons who engage in the Company's +service, we are informed, are vagabonds and adventurers,--but not +criminals, be it remembered,--to whom the fabulous reports of the +state of affluence to be easily attained, which are industriously +circulated, operate as an incentive to sail to America in the +condition of Promiischleniks, a word originally signifying any who +carry on a trade, but here, as it is the only occupation, restricted +to those who collect furs. Their misery commences with their voyage, +which is generally performed in vessels so exceedingly crowded, that a +large proportion of the passengers are necessitated to sleep upon the +deck, which, in such a climate, it is obvious, must expose them to +almost certain disease and death. This last, indeed, is the most +desirable destiny they can experience, as those who have the +misfortune to survive are subjected to almost incalculable calamities +from the want of proper food and clothing, under the rigours of the +climate, and the still more relentless severity of their task-masters. +From the treatment which the sick receive, we may perhaps, with some +exercise of imagination, infer, what the mode of life must be, +of those whom superior force of constitution preserves in health. +Speaking of a particular case which he had an opportunity of +witnessing, Captain K. says, "We went to visit the sick, and it is +impossible for me to describe the shocking, the disgusting state in +which we found them; nearly all appeared to labour under incurable +scorbutic and venereal sores, although they had been ten months on +shore, and had enjoyed the assistance of the surgeon of St Peter and +St Paul. Even of this they were now about to be deprived, and on the +point of being removed, by a long and tedious navigation, to places +where they must either forego all surgical attendance, or obtain it +from people totally unskilled in the practice. I was curious to learn +on what food the sick were kept, and was shewn two casks of salt meat +destined for them. I requested to see a piece of it; but, on opening +the cask, so disgusting and pestilential a smell took possession +of the hold as compelled me instantly to quit it. Two tons of this +stinking salt meat, and some sacks of mouldy black biscuit, were the +only nourishing provisions on board for twenty invalids, for, to this +number, (out of seventy,) they actually amounted before the Maria (the +vessel they were on board) left St Peter and St Paul (for Kodiak)." +Was not the practice said to have been adopted at Jaffa by an +extraordinary character, to be esteemed for mercifulness in comparison +of this? Train oil and the flesh of the sea-lion, with a mixture of +rye-meal and water, form the choicest provisions of those who are +well, either on board a ship or on shore; these, it must be owned, are +quite suitable to the iron rule of the agent, under whom there can +be neither personal property nor individual security, because he is +subject to no law, and there are no courts of justice in Kodiak, or +any other of the company's possessions. Few of these wretched outcasts +ever again reach Russian ground, very few indeed attain the object +of their wishes (we dare not say hopes) to return to Europe. Disease, +disappointment, innumerable sufferings, continual drunkenness, the +only solace in which, for obvious reasons, they are indulged, bring +them speedily to the end of their unhappy existence, and leave a +vacant stage for the miseries of new victims. Should a remnant have +a more lengthened career, and having, by infinite pain and trouble, +amassed a little property, get back to Ochotsk, thinking to return +home and spend their days in comfort with their relatives, they are +beset by fresh and perhaps still more aggravated vexations. They +cannot leave that place, it seems, till they have closed accounts with +the agents, and, as this is frequently protracted, no doubt with +the most diabolical design, they become idle, spend what they had +acquired, run into debt, (for sufficient credit is allowed them), +and at last are necessitated to revert to their former slavery with +perhaps far less ability than formerly, and with no other expectation +of relief than what is afforded by the certainty of their dissolution. +It is impossible to contemplate this distressing picture a moment +longer. Let us leave it.--E.] + +It is now time to give some account of the native inhabitants. To all +appearance, they are the most peaceable, inoffensive people, I ever +met with. And, as to honesty, they might serve as a pattern to the +most civilized nation upon earth. But, from what I saw of their +neighbours, with whom the Russians have no connection, I doubt whether +this was their original disposition, and rather think that it has been +the consequence of their present state of subjection. Indeed, if some +of our gentlemen did not misunderstand the Russians, they had been +obliged to make some severe examples, before they could bring the +islanders into any order. If there were severities inflicted at first, +the best apology for them is, that they have produced the happiest +consequences, and, at present, the greatest harmony subsists between +the two nations. The natives have their own chiefs in each island, and +seem to enjoy liberty and property unmolested. But whether or no they +are tributaries to the Russians, we could never find out. There was +some reason to think that they are.[16] + +[Footnote 16: See the particulars of hostilities between the Russians +and the natives, in Coxe, as cited above.--D. + +It will readily be inferred from what has already been mentioned of +the conduct of the Russian agents towards their own countrymen, that +the circumstance of the unfortunate islanders, who are also subjected +to their sway, cannot be very eligible. A single quotation from the +work referred to, will answer every purpose we can have in view in +alluding to them in this place. "The chief agent of the American +Company is the boundless despot over an extent of country, which, +comprising the Aleutic islands, stretches from 57 to 61 degrees +of latitude, and from 130 to 190 degrees of east longitude. The +population of the islanders annually decreasing, and the wretched +condition of the Russians living there, sufficiently proves, that, +from their first migration to these islands and to the American +coast, up to the present moment, the Company's possessions have been +entrusted to people, who were, indeed, zealous for its own advantage, +but frequently more so for that of a few subordinate agents." A +Lieutenant Davidoff, he gives us to understand, had collected some +very important notices respecting these possessions of the Company, +and had imparted to him a fragment of them relative to the +situation of the islanders and their conquerors. This however is +not communicated, apparently for a reason mentioned, viz. that this +officer proposed publishing on the subject when he returned to St +Petersburg; and that though unfortunately he lost his life in the +Neva before that took place, his manuscript, which was in the hands of +Admiral Schischkoff, will be printed by the Admiralty. We shall wonder +if it be so, concluding as to its contents from what is already made +known. Though it is possible, indeed, to imagine, that it may be made +use of as a testimony against the bad management and inhuman conduct +of the agents of the Company, in order to justify the interference of +the legislature in their concerns, which certainly appears to be much +wanted. Altogether, it is obvious then, that the statement of matters +which Captain Cook has given in the text, applies to a golden age, +in comparison of what we are assured was lately existing in these +regions. What changes have been wrought by the representations of +Krusenstern we have not heard.--E.] + +These people are rather low of stature, but plump and well-shaped, +with rather short necks, swarthy chubby faces, black eyes, small +beards, and long, straight, black hair, which the men wear loose +behind and cut before, but the women tie up in a bunch. + +Their dress has been occasionally mentioned. Both sexes wear the same +in fashion, the only difference is in the materials. The women's frock +is made of seal-skin, and that of the men, of the skins of birds, both +reaching below the knee. This is the whole dress of the women. But +over their frock, the men wear another made of gut, which resists +water, and has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some of them +wear boots, and all of them have a kind of oval snouted cap, made of +wood, with a rim to admit the head. These caps are dyed with green and +other colours; and round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long +bristles of some sea-animal, on which are strung glass-beads, and on +the front is a small image or two made of bone. + +They make use of no paint; but the women puncture their faces +slightly; and both men and women bore the under-lip, to which they +fix pieces of bone. But it is as uncommon, at Oonalashka, to see a man +with this ornament, as to see a woman without it. Some fix beads to +the upper-lip, under the nostrils; and all of them hang ornaments in +their ears. + +Their food consists of fish, sea-animals, birds, roots, and berries, +and even of sea-weed. They dry large quantities of fish in summer, +which they lay up in small huts for winter use; and probably they +preserve roots and berries for the same time of scarcity. They eat +almost every thing raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of +cookery that I saw them make use of; and the first was probably learnt +from the Russians. Some have got little brass-kettles; and those who +have not, make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay, not unlike a +standing pye. + +I was once present, when the chief of Oonalashka made his dinner of +the raw head of a large halibut, just caught. Before any was given +to the chief, two of his servants eat the gills, without any other +dressing, besides squeezing out the slime. This done, one of them cut +off the head of the fish, took it to the sea and washed it, then came +with it, and sat down by the chief, first pulling up some grass, upon +a part of which the head was laid, and the rest was strewed before the +chief. He then cut large pieces of the cheeks, and laid these +within the reach of the great man, who swallowed them with as much +satisfaction as we should do raw oysters. When he had done, the +remains of the head were cut in pieces, and given to the attendants, +who tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones like so +many dogs. + +As these people use no paint, they are not so dirty in their persons +as the savages who thus besmear themselves; but they are full as lousy +and filthy in their houses. Their method of building is as follows: +They dig in the ground an oblong square pit, the length of which +seldom exceeds fifty feet, and the breadth twenty; but in general the +dimensions are smaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of +wood which the sea throws ashore. This roof is covered first with +grass, and then with earth, so that the outward appearance is like a +dunghill. In the middle of the roof, toward each end, is left a square +opening, by which the light is admitted; one of these openings being +for this purpose only, and the other being also used to go in and out +by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a post, with steps cut in +it.[17] In some houses there is another entrance below; but this is +not common. Round the sides and ends of the huts, the families, (for +several are lodged together) have their separate apartments, where +they sleep, and sit at work, not upon benches, but in a kind of +concave trench, which is dug all round the inside of the house, and +covered with mats; so that this part is kept tolerably decent. But +the middle of the house, which is common to all the families, is +far otherwise. For, although it be covered with dry grass, it is a +receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the urine trough; +the stench of which is not mended by raw hides, or leather being +almost continually steeped in it. Behind and over the trench, are +placed the few effects they are possessed of, such as their cloathing, +mats, and skins. + +[Footnote 17: Mr Coxe's description of the habitations of the natives +of Oonalashka, and the other Fox Islands, in general, agrees with +Captain Cook's. See _Russian Discoveries_, p. 149. See also _Histoire +des differents Peuples soumis à la Domination des Russes_, par M. +Levesque, tom. i. p. 40, 41.--D.] + +Their household furniture consists of bowls, spoons, buckets, piggins +or cans, matted-baskets, and perhaps a Russian kettle or pot. All +these utensils are very neatly made, and well formed; and yet we saw +no other tools among them but the knife and the hatchet, that is, +a small flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a +crooked wooden handle. These were the only instruments we met with +there made of iron. For although the Russians live amongst them, we +found much less of this metal in their possession, than we had met +with in the possession of other tribes on the American continent, who +had never seen, nor perhaps had any intercourse with, the Russians. +Probably a few beads, a little tobacco, and snuff, purchase all they +have to spare. There are few, if any of them, that do not both smoke +and chew tobacco, and take snuff; a luxury that bids fair to keep them +always poor. + +They did not seem to wish for more iron, or to want any other +instruments, except sewing-needles, their own being made of bone. With +these they not only sew their canoes, and make their clothes, but +also very curious embroidery. Instead of thread they use the fibres +of sinews, which they split to the thickness which each sort of work +requires. All sewing is performed by the women. They are the tailors, +shoe-makers, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers; for the men, most +probably, construct the frame of wood over which the skins are sewed. +They make mats and baskets of grass, that are both beautiful and +strong. Indeed, there is a neatness and perfection in most of their +work, that shews they neither want ingenuity nor perseverance. + +I saw not a fire-place in any one of their houses; they are lighted as +well as heated, by lamps, which are simple, and yet answer the purpose +very well. They are made of a flat stone, hollowed on one side like a +plate, and about the same size, or rather larger. In the hollow part +they put the oil, mixed with a little dry grass, which serves the +purpose of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies +over one of these lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their +garments, and sitting thus over it for a few minutes. + +They produce fire both by collision and by attrition; the former by +striking two stones one against another, on one of which a good deal +of brimstone is first rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of +wood; one of which is a stick of about eighteen inches in length, and +the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the slick they press upon +the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing fire in +a few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is +practised by the Kamtschadales, by these people, by the Greenlanders, +by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and +probably by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men +have founded an argument on this custom to prove, that this and that +nation are of the same extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few +particular instances, will not authorise such a conclusion; nor will +a disagreement, either in manners or customs, between two different +nations, of course, prove that they are of different extraction. I +could support this opinion by many instances besides the one just +mentioned.[18] + +[Footnote 18: We formerly hazarded some observations, on this subject, +which may properly claim regard, if the concurrent opinion of Cook +be any commendation. It is rare with him to venture on theoretic +conjectures; but his truly excellent remarks, so indicative of candid +and unbiassed enquiry, may justly serve as the basis of very extensive +reasoning. His professional career, in short, may be considered as +a course of experimental investigations, from which there results a +system of philosophy of no ordinary interest or importance. Can one +help regretting, that he did not live, like Newton, to deduce the +legitimate consequences of his own discoveries? But, alas! how rapidly +are we now approaching to the last suggestions of his sagacious +mind!--E.] + +No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen +amongst the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot suppose that the Russians +found them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that, for +their own security, they have disarmed them. Political reasons too +may have induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have +any large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none such +originally, as we found them amongst all their neighbours. However, +we saw none here but one or two belonging to the Russians. The canoes +made use of by the natives are the smallest we had any where seen +upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some +little difference in the construction. The stern of these terminates +a little abruptly; the head is forked, the upper point of the fork +projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface +of the water. Why they should thus construct them is difficult to +conceive; for the fork is apt to catch hold of every thing that comes +in the way; to prevent which, they fix a piece of small stick from +point to point. In other respects, their canoes are built after the +manner of those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; the framing +being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about +twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or +fourteen inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two persons; one +of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the other sits +in the seat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this +hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut-skin, that can +be drawn together, or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted +to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin +tight round his body over his gut-frock, and brings the ends of the +thongs or purse-string, over the shoulder to keep it in its place. +The sleeves of his frock are tied tight round his wrists, and it being +close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is +confined by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his body, +or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the +boatman carries a piece of spunge, with which he dries it up. He uses +the double-bladed paddle, which is held with both hands in the middle, +striking the water with a quick regular motion, first on one side +and then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a +great rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn. In +sailing from Egoochshak to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way +with the ship, though she was going at the rate of seven miles an +hour. + +Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under +straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, +of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the +Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only difference is +in the point of the missile dart, which, in some we saw here, is +not above an inch long; whereas Crantz says, that those of the +Greenlanders are a foot and a half in length. Indeed, these darts, as +well as some others of their instruments, are so curious, that they +deserve a particular description; but, as many of them were brought +away on board the ships, this can be done at any time, if thought +necessary. These people are very expert in striking fish, both in the +sea, and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets and +wears. The hooks are composed of bone, and the lines of sinews. + +The fishes which are common to other northern seas, are found here; +such as whales, grampusses, porpoises, swordfish, halibut, cod, +salmon, trout, seals, flat-fish; several other sorts of small fish; +and there may be many more that we had no opportunity of seeing. +Halibut and salmon seem to be in the greatest plenty, and on them the +inhabitants of these isles subsist chiefly; at least, they were the +only sort of fish, except a few cod, which we observed to be laid up +for their winter store. To the north of 60°, the sea is, in a manner, +destitute of small fish of every kind; but then whales are more +numerous. + +Seals and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous as +in many other seas. Nor can this be thought strange, since there is +hardly any part of the coast, on either continent, nor any of +the islands lying between them, that is not inhabited, and whose +inhabitants hunt these animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses +are, indeed, in prodigious numbers about the ice; and the sea-otter +is, I believe, no where found but in this sea. We sometimes saw an +animal, with a head like a seal's, that blew after the manner of +whales. It was larger than a seal, and its colour was white, with some +dark spots. Probably this was the sea-cow, or _manati_. + +I think I may venture to assert, that sea and water fowls are neither +in such numbers, nor in such variety, as with us in the northern parts +of the Atlantic Ocean. There are some, however, here, that I do +not remember to have seen any where else; particularly the _alca +monochroa_ of Steller, before mentioned; and a black and white duck, +which I conceive to be different from the stone-duck described by +Krascheninicoff.[19] All the other birds seen by us are mentioned by +this author, except some that we met with near the ice; and most, if +not all, of these, are described by Martin in his voyage to Greenland. +It is a little extraordinary, that penguins, which are common in many +parts of the world, should not be found in this sea. Albatrosses too +are so very scarce, that I cannot help thinking that this is not their +proper climate. + +[Footnote 19: History of Kamtschatka. Eng. Trans. p. 160.] + +The few land birds that we met with are the same with those in Europe; +but there may be many others which we had no opportunity of knowing. A +very beautiful bird was shot in the woods at Norton Sound, which, I +am told, is sometimes found in England, and known by the name of +Chatterer. Our people met with other small birds there, but in no +great variety and abundance; such as the wood pecker, the bullfinch, +the yellow finch, and a small bird called a tit-mouse. + +As our excursions and observations were confined wholly to the +sea-coast, it is not to be expected, that we could know much of the +animals or vegetables of the country. Except musquitoes, there are +few other insects; nor reptiles, that I saw, but lizards. There are no +deer upon Oonalashka, or upon any other of the islands. Nor have they +any domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and weasels were the only +quadrupeds we saw; but they told us, that they had hares also, and +the _marmottas_ mentioned by Krascheninicoff.[20] Hence it is evident, +that the sea and rivers supply the greatest share of food to the +inhabitants. They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood made +use of for building, and other necessary purposes; for not a stick +grows upon any of the islands, nor upon the adjacent coast of the +continent. + +[Footnote 20: History of Kamtschatka, p. 99.] + +The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are, by various means, +conveyed from one part of the world to another, even to islands in the +midst of great oceans, and far remote from any other land. How comes +it to pass, that there are no trees growing on this part of the +continent of America, nor any of the islands lying near it? They are +certainly as well situated for receiving seeds, by all the various +ways I have heard of, as any of those coasts are that abound in wood. +May not nature have denied to some soil the power of raising trees, +without the assistance of art? As to the drift-wood upon the shores of +the islands, I have no doubt that it comes from America. For although +there may be none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow farther +up the country, which torrents in the spring may break loose, and +bring down to the sea. And not a little may be conveyed from the woody +coasts, though they lie at a greater distance.[21] + +[Footnote 21: More extensive observations than what Cook's time +allowed him to make, would be requisite to determine the questions +which he has just now started. Besides, it is fair to remark, that +there is some reason for demurring at one of the premises, with which +he sets out, viz. that the islands, he speaks of, are as well situate +for receiving seeds, as any of the coasts are that abound in wood. +At least, before admitting it, we ought to be assured of the equal +vicinity of sources from which these seeds might be received, the +predominance or occasional alteration of currents fit for their +conveyance, &c. On the other hand, what is conjectured about the +variety of soils, is so obvious, as to need no pointing out. With +respect to the drift-wood, it may be right to state, by way of +corroborating a supposition hazarded by Cook, that there is reason to +believe, that much of the internal parts of North America, and even +the declivities, though not the summits of most of the high ranges of +mountains traversing it, either have been, or are, well covered +with trees. Here, it is worth while to allude to a very singular +circumstance mentioned in the account of Lewis and Clarke's Travels to +the Source of the Missouri, &c. viz. that a great number of the trunks +of trees of the pine genus were found standing erect, and with their +roots fixed, but in a state of decay, in the bottom of the Columbia +river, on the west coast. It is difficult to explain this, but on the +supposition of some considerable change in the course of the river; +and it is sufficiently obvious, that such changes, which we know have +often occurred elsewhere, might soon occasion the removal of trees +from their original situation to any distance. We cannot spare time or +room to carry on the investigation of the subject; but no reader +can be at a loss to estimate the probable results of the fact now +mentioned. To some persons, however, it may be necessary to mention, +that the Missouri itself is a striking instance of both changeability +of course, and a corresponding operation in transporting trees, &c.; +the latter circumstance being apparently both the cause and the effect +of the former. Thus we are informed in the work already referred +to, that at the place where the party embarked on the last-mentioned +river, its current, which was extremely rapid, brought down great +quantities of drift-wood, that its bottom was full of logs of trees, +and that the course of the water was frequently varying from the +effects of sand-bars, &c. of its own formation. For an obvious reason, +it is to be wished, that Cook had mentioned to what species of trees +the drift-wood he found had belonged. How rarely are even intelligent +persons quite aware of the importance of the facts which are presented +to them; and how much has been lost, or which is, in fact, the same +thing, not gained to science, in consequence of the carelessness with +which they have been examined!--E.] + +There are a greater variety of plants at Oonalashka, and most of them +were in flower the latter end of June. Several of them are such as +we find in Europe, and in other parts of America, particularly +in Newfoundland; and others of them, which are also met with in +Kamtschatka, are eat by the natives both there and here. Of these, +Krascheninicoff has given us descriptions. The principal one is the +_saranne_, or lily root, which is about the size of a root of garlic, +round, made up of a number of small cloves, and grains like +groats. When boiled, it is somewhat like saloop; the taste is not +disagreeable, and we found means to make some good dishes with it. It +does not seem to be in great plenty; for we got none but what Ismyloff +gave us. We must reckon amongst the food of the natives, some other +wild roots; the stalk of a plant resembling _angelica_, and berries +of several different sorts; such as bramble-berries, cran-berries, +hurtle-berries, heath-berries, a small red berry, which, in +Newfoundland, is called partridge-berry, and another brown berry, +unknown to us. This has somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike +it in every other respect. It is very astringent, if eaten in any +quantity. Brandy might be distilled from it. Captain Clerke attempted +to preserve some; but they fermented, and became as strong as if they +had been steeped in spirits. + +There were a few other plants, which we found serviceable, but are +not made use of by either Russians or natives. Such as wild purslain, +pea-tops, a kind of scurvy-grass, cresses, and some others. All these +we found very palatable, dressed either in soups or in sallads. On the +low ground, and in the vallies, is plenty of grass, which grows very +thick, and to a great length. I am of opinion, that cattle might +subsist at Oonalashka all the year round, without being housed. And +the soil, in many places, seemed capable of producing grain, roots, +and vegetables. But, at present, the Russian traders, and the natives, +seem satisfied with what nature brings forth. + +Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the island; but I +had no opportunity of learning where they got it. We found also ochre, +a stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good +green. It may be doubted, whether this last is known. In its natural +state, it is of a greyish green colour, coarse and heavy. It easily +dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely loses its +properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka; but we were told, +that it was in greater plenty on the island Oonemak. As to the +stones about the shore and hills, I saw nothing in them that was +uncommon.[22] + +[Footnote 22: Very probably the stone that gave a green colour was +an ore of copper; but the scanty description renders it difficult to +ascertain the species. The other, which is said to have given a purple +colour, may also have contained the same metal.--E.] + +The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and +raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country, +one of the natives, who attended me, pointed out several of these +receptacles of the dead. There was one of them, by the side of the +road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a +heap of stones. It was observed, that every one who passed it, added +one to it. I saw in the country several stone-hillocks, that seemed +to have been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of great +antiquity. + +What their notions are of the Deity, and of a future state, I know +not. I am equally unacquainted with their diversions; nothing having +been seen that could give us an insight into either. + +They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each other, and +always behaved with great civility to us. The Russians told us, that +they never had any connections with their women, because they were not +Christians. Our people were not so scrupulous; and some of them had +reason to repent that the females of Oonalashka encouraged their +addresses without any reserve; for their health suffered by a +distemper that is not unknown here. The natives of this island are +also subject to the cancer, or a complaint like it, which those +whom it attacks are very careful to conceal. They do not seem to +be long-lived. I no where saw a person, man or woman, whom I could +suppose to be sixty years of age; and but very few who appeared to +be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means of +shortening their days. + +I have frequently had occasion to mention, from the time of our +arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably the natives, on this +north-west side of America, resemble the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, +in various particulars of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the +like. However, I was much less struck with this, than with the +affinity which we found subsisting between the dialects of the +Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of Norton's Sound and +Oonalashka. This will appear from a table of corresponding words which +I put together. + +It must he observed, however, with regard to the words which we +collected on this side of America, that too much stress is not to be +laid upon their being accurately represented; for, after Mr Anderson's +death, we had few who took much pains about such matters; and I have +frequently found, that the same words written down by two or more +persons, from the mouth of the same native, on being compared +together, differed not a little. But still, enough is certain, to +warrant this judgment, that there is great reason to believe, that +all these nations are of the same extraction; and if so, there can be +little doubt of there being a northern communication of some sort, +by sea, between this west side of America and the east side, through +Baffin's Bay, which communication, however, may be effectually shut +up against ships by ice, and other impediments. Such, at least, was my +opinion at this time.[23] + +[Footnote 23: This subject has been alluded to in the Introduction, +and will in all probability receive consideration in the course of +this Collection. It is unnecessary, therefore, to enter upon it in +this place. We shall merely mention a few particulars. The west coast +of Greenland has not been explored beyond 72° latitude. Little or +nothing, that can be relied on, is known concerning the sea of Davis +or Baffin's Bay; the latter, indeed, being generally considered as +imaginary, and having no other evidence for its existence, than the +assertions, of a man conceived unworthy of credit. The whole distance +from the coast of that bay, as commonly laid down, to the point where +Hearne saw the sea, viz. in 69° latitude, being about sixty degrees +of longitude, is totally unknown. The same thing is to be said of +both the space betwixt the last mentioned spot, and that at which +Mackenzie's river is conceived to enter, which is denominated the +Arctic Sea, amounting to upwards of twenty degrees more, and also +of about an equal space betwixt this last position and Icy Cape, the +highest point at which Captain Cook arrived in this voyage. If any +passage do exist, it is certain, that it must be beyond 69° latitude, +as high as which, it has been indubitably proved by the labours of +Cook, Mackenzie, and Hearne, that the continent of America is unbroken +by any navigable passage from sea to sea. Above that latitude, it +is not only possible, but also even probable, that the Arctic Sea, +supposing it to be the same which Mackenzie and Hearne saw, and that +it is equally low down, or nearly so, throughout the other spaces +alluded to, may, in some peculiarly mild seasons, admit the passage +of canoes, if not of larger vessels. The circumstance of a much higher +latitude having been actually navigated in the Atlantic Ocean, might +seem to warrant such an opinion, and would, of course, justify some +renewed attempts in such an enterprise, were it not, that it has been +proved by the present voyage, that the ice extends lower down in the +Pacific Ocean, and that there is no small reason to believe, that +Greenland forms an integral part of the American continent. Still, +however, in every view of the subject, there does appear encouragement +to make some experiments of the nature of Hearne's and Mackenzie's, +particularly towards the east of the track explored by the former; and +it is even extremely probable, that some marine co-operation in the +direction of both Hudson's Bay and Davis' Strait, would facilitate and +secure some discovery of more utility, than a mere improvement of our +maps. But it is improper to disburden imagination on such a subject in +this place.--E.] + +I shall now quit these northern regions, with a few particulars +relative to the tides and currents upon the coast, and an account of +the astronomical observations made by us in Samganoodha harbour. + +The tide is no where considerable but in the great river.[24] + +[Footnote 24: Cook's River.] + +The flood comes from the south or south-east, every where following +the direction of the coast to the north-westward. Between Norton +Sound and Cape Prince of Wales, we found a current setting to the +north-west, particularly off the cape and within Sledge Island. But +this current extended only a little way from the coast, nor was it +either consistent or uniform. To the north of Cape Prince of Wales, +we found neither tide nor current, either on the American or on the +Asiatic coast, though several times looked for. This gave rise to an +opinion entertained by some on board our ships, that the two coasts +were connected, either by land or by ice; which opinion received some +strength, by our never having any hollow waves from the north, and by +our seeing ice almost the whole way across. + +The following are the results of the several observations made ashore, +during our stay in the harbour of Samganoodha. + + The latitude, by the mean of several observed + meridian altitudes of the sun, 53° 5' 0" + By the mean of 20 sets \ + of lunar observations, } 193 47 45 + / with the sun east of the } + The longitude { moon / + \By the mean of 14 sets, \ + with the sun and stars } 193 11 45 + west of the moon / + ------------- + The mean of these 193 29 45 + The longitude assumed 193 30 0 + + By the mean of equal altitudes of the sun, + taken on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 21st, + the time-keeper was found to be losing + on mean time 8", 8 each day; and, on + the last of these days, was too slow for + mean time 13^h 46^m 43^s, 98. Hence the + time-keeper must have been too slow on + the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13^h + 44^m 26^s, 62; and the longitude, by Greenwich + rate, will be 13^h 23^m 53^s, 8 200 58 27 + + By King George's (or Nootka) Sound rate, + 12^h 56^m 40^s, 4 194 10 6 + + The 30th of June, the time-keeper, by the + same rate, gave 193 12 0 + + The error of the time-keeper, at that time, + was 0 18 0 W. + + At this time, its error was 0 39 54 E. + + The error of the time-keeper, between our + leaving Samganoodha, and our return to + it again, was 0 57 54 + + On the 12th of October, the variation /A.M. 20° 17' 2"\ Mean 19° 59' + By the mean of three compasses, \P.M. 19 41' 27 / 15" East. + + Dip of the needle / Unmarked end \Dipping, /68° 45'\ Face / 69° 30' + \ Marked end / face East \69 55 / West \ 69 17 + + Mean of the dip of the north end of the needle 62° 23' 30". + + +SECTION XII. + +_Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views,--The Island +Amoghta.--Situation of a remarkable Rock.--The Strait between +Oonalashka and Oonella repassed.--Progress to the South.--Melancholy +Accident on board the Discovery.--Mowee, one of the Sandwich +Islands, discovered.--Intercourse with the Natives.--Visit from +Terreeoboo.--Another Island, called Owhyhee, discovered.--The +Ships ply to windward to get round it.--An Eclipse of the Moon +observed.--The Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane Beer.--Cordage +deficient in Strength.--Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee.--The +Resolution gets to Windward of the Island.--Her Progress down +the South-East Coast.--Views of the Country, and Visits from the +Natives.--The Discovery joins.--Slow Progress Westward.--Karakakooa +Bay examined by Mr Bligh.--Vast Concourse of the Natives.--The Ships +anchor in the Bay._ + +In the morning of Monday the 26th, we put to sea from Samganoodha +harbour; and, as the wind was southerly, stood away to the westward. + +My intention was now to proceed to Sandwich Islands, there to spend +a few of the winter months, in case we should meet with the necessary +refreshments, and then to direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to +endeavour to be there by the middle of May, the ensuing summer. In +consequence of this resolution, I gave Captain Clerke orders how to +proceed, in case of separation; appointing Sandwich Islands for the +first place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropaulowska, in +Kamtschatka, for the second. + +Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered to the S.E. and +E.S.E., which, by the evening, carried us as far as the western part +of Oonalashka, where we got the wind at S. With this we stretched to +the westward, till seven o'clock the next morning, when we wore, and +stood to the E. The wind, by this time, had increased in such a manner +as to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in very heavy squalls, +attended with rain, hail, and snow. + +At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the island of Oonalashka +bore S.E., four leagues distant. We then wore and stood to the +westward. The strength of the gale was now over, and toward evening +the little wind that blew insensibly veered round to the E., where it +continued but a short time before it got to N.E., and increased to a +very hard gale with rain. I steered first to the southward, and as the +wind inclined to the N. and N.W., I steered more westerly. + +On the 29th, at half past six in the morning, we saw land extending +from E. by S. to S. by W., supposed to be the island Amoghta. At +eight, finding that we could not weather the island, as the wind had +now veered, to the westward, I gave over plying, and bore away for +Oonalashka, with a view of going to the northward and eastward of that +island, not daring to attempt a passage to the S.E. of it, in so hard +a gale of wind. At the time we bore away, the land extended from E. +by S. 1/2 S. to S.S.W., four leagues distant. The longitude by the +time-keeper was 191° 17', and the latitude 53° 38'. This will give a +very different situation to this island from that assigned to it upon +the Russian map. But it must be remembered, that this is one of the +islands which Mr Ismyloff said was wrong placed. Indeed, it is a doubt +if this be Amoghta;[1] for after Ismyloff had made the correction, no +land appeared upon the map in this latitude; but, as I have observed +before, we must not look for accuracy in this chart. + +[Footnote 1: On the chart of Krenitzen's and Levasheff's voyage in +1768 and 1769, which we find in Mr Coxe's book, p. 251, an island +called Amuckta, is laid down, not very far from the place assigned to +Amoghta by Captain Cook.--D.] + +At eleven o'clock, as we were steering to the N.E., we discovered +an elevated rock, like a tower, bearing N.N.E. 1/2 E., four leagues +distant. It lies in the latitude of 53° 57', and in the longitude of +191° 2', and hath no place in the Russian map.[2] We must have passed +very near it in the night. We could judge of its steepness from this +circumstance, that the sea, which now run very high, broke no where +but against it. At three in the afternoon, after getting a sight of +Oonalashka, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind, not having time to +get through the passage before night. At day-break the next morning, +we bore away under courses, and close-reefed top-sails, having a very +hard gale at W.N.W., with heavy squalls, attended with snow. At noon, +we were in the middle of the Strait, between Oonalashka, and Oonella, +the harbour of Samganoodha bearing S.S.E., one league distant. At +three in the afternoon, being through the Strait, and clear of the +isles, Cape Providence bearing W.S.W., two or three leagues distant, +we steered to the southward, under double-reefed top-sails and +courses, with the wind at W.N.W., a strong gale, and fair weather. + +[Footnote 2: Though this rock had no place in the Russian map +produced by Ismyloff, it has a place in the chart of Krenitzen's and +Levasheff's voyage above referred to. That chart also agrees with +Captain Cook's, as to the general position of this group of islands. +The singularly indented shores of the island of Oonalashka are +represented in both charts much alike. These circumstances are worth +attending to, as the more modern Russian maps of this Archipelago are +so wonderfully erroneous.--D.] + +On Monday, the 2d of November, the wind veered to the southward; and, +before night, blew a violent storm, which obliged us to bring to. The +Discovery fired several guns, which we answered; but without knowing +on what occasion they were fired. At eight o'clock, we lost sight of +her, and did not see her again till eight the next morning. At ten, +she joined us; and, as the height of the gale was now over, and the +wind had veered back to W.N.W., we made sail, and resumed our course +to the southward. + +The 6th, in the evening, being in the latitude of 42° 12', and in the +longitude of 201° 26'", the variation was 17° 15' E. The next morning, +our latitude being 41° 20', and our longitude 202°, a shag, or +cormorant, flew several times round the ship. As these birds are +seldom, if ever, known to fly far out of sight of land, I judged +that some was not far distant. However, we could see none. In the +afternoon, there being but little wind, Captain Clerke came on board, +and informed me of a melancholy accident that happened on board his +ship, the second night after we left Samganoodha. The main tack gave +way, killed one man, and wounded the boatswain, and two or three more. +In addition to this misfortune, I now learned, that, on the evening of +the 2d, his sails and rigging received considerable damage; and that +the guns which he fired were the signal to bring to.' + +On the 8th, the wind was at N.; a gentle breeze with clear weather. On +the 9th, in the latitude of 39-1/2°, we had eight hours calm. This +was succeeded by the wind from, the S., attended with fair weather. +Availing ourselves of this, as many of our people as could handle a +needle, were set to work to repair the sails; and the carpenters were +employed to put the boats in order. + +On the 12th at noon, being then in the latitude of 38° 14', and in the +longitude of 206° 17', the wind returned back to the northward; and, +on the 15th, in the latitude of 33° 30', it veered to the E. At this +time, we saw a tropic-bird, and a dolphin, the first that we had +observed during the passage. On the 17th, the wind veered to the +southward, where it continued till the afternoon of the 19th, when a +squall of wind and rain brought it at once round by the W. to the N. +This was in the latitude of 32° 26', and in the longitude of 207° 30'. + +The wind presently increased to a very strong gale, attended with +rain, so as to bring us under double-reefed top-sails. In lowering +down the main top-sail to reef it, the wind tore it quite out of the +foot rope, and it was split in several other parts. This sail had only +been brought to the yard the day before, after having had a repair. +The next morning we got another top-sail to the yard. This gale proved +to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which, in, latitude 25°, +veered to E. and E.S.E. + +I continued to steer to the southward till day-light in the morning +of the 25th, at which time we were in the latitude of 20° 55'. I now +spread the ships, and steered to the W. In the evening we joined, +and at midnight brought-to. At day-break, next morning, land was seen +extending from S.S.E. to W. We made sail, and stood for it. At eight, +it extended from S.E. 1/2 S. to W., the nearest part two leagues +distant. It was supposed that we saw the extent of the land to the +east, but not to the west. We were now satisfied, that the group of +the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered; as those +of them which we had visited in our progress northward, all lie to the +leeward of our present station. + +In the country was an elevated saddle hill, whose summit appeared +above the clouds. From this hill, the land fell in a gentle slope, and +terminated in a steep rocky coast, against which the sea broke in a +dreadful surf. Finding that we could not weather the island, I bore +up, and ranged along the coast to the westward. It was not long before +we saw people on several parts of the shore, and some houses and +plantations. The country seemed to be both well wooded and watered, +and running streams were seen falling into the sea in various places. + +As it was of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at +these islands; and experience having taught me that I could have no +chance to succeed in this if a free trade with the natives were to be +allowed; that is, if it were left to every man's discretion to +trade for what he pleased, and in the manner he pleased; for this +substantial reason, I now published an order, prohibiting all persons +from trading, except such as should be appointed by me and Captain +Clerke; and even these were enjoined to trade only for provisions and +refreshments. Women were also forbidden to be admitted into the ships, +except under certain restrictions. But the evil I meant to prevent by +this regulation, I soon found, had already got amongst them. + +At noon, the coast extended from S., 81° E., to N. 56° W.; a low flat, +like an isthmus, bore S., 42° W.; the nearest shore three or four +miles distant; the latitude was 20° 59', and the longitude 203° 50'. +Seeing some canoes coming off to us, I brought-to. As soon as they got +alongside, many of the people, who conducted them, came into the ship, +without the least hesitation. We found them to be of the same nation +with the inhabitants of the islands more to leeward, which we had +already visited; and, if we did not mistake them, they knew of our +having been there. Indeed, it rather appeared too evident; for these +people had got amongst them, the venereal distemper; and, as yet, I +knew of no other way of its reaching them but by an intercourse with +their neighbours since our leaving them. + +We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish for nails and +pieces of iron. They brought very little fruit and roots; but told us +that they had plenty or them on their island, as also hogs and fowls. +In the evening, the horizon being clear to the westward, we judged +the westernmost land in sight to be an island, separated from that off +which we now were. Having no doubt that the people would return to the +ships next day, with the produce of their country, I kept plying off +all night, and in the morning stood close in shore. At first, only a +few of the natives visited us; but, toward noon, we had the company +of a good many, who brought with them bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro, +or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs; all of which they +exchanged for nails and iron tools. Indeed, we had nothing else to +give them. We continued trading with, them till four o'clock in the +afternoon, when, having disposed of all their cargoes, and not seeming +inclined to fetch more, we made sail, and stood off shore. + +While we were lying-to, though the wind blew fresh, I observed that +the ships drifted to the east, consequently there must have been +a current setting in that direction. This encouraged me to ply to +windward, with a view to get round the east end of the island, and so +have the whole lee-side before us. In the afternoon of the 30th, being +off the N.E. end of the island, several canoes came off to the ships. +Most of these belonged to a chief, named Terreeoboo, who came in one +of them. He made me a present of two or three small pigs; and we got, +by barter, from the other people, a little fruit. After a stay +of about two hours they all left us, except six or eight of their +company, who chose to remain on board. A double-sailing canoe came +soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all night. +In the evening, we discovered another island to windward, which the +natives call _Owhyhee_. The name of that, off which we had been for +some days, we were also told is _Mowee_. + +On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, Owhyhee extended from +S., 22' E, to S. 12° W.; and Mowee from N. 41° to N. 83° W. Finding +that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it; and our visitors from +Mowee not choosing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe, and went +ashore. At seven in the evening, we were close up with the north side +of Owhyhee; where we spent the night, standing off and on. + +In the morning of the 2d, we were surprised to see the summits of the +mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. They did not appear to be of +any extraordinary height; and yet, in some places, the snow seemed to +be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there some time. As we +drew near the shore, some of the natives came off to us. They were a +little shy at first; but we soon enticed some of them on board; and at +last prevailed upon them to return to the island, and bring off what +we wanted. Soon after they reached the shore, we had company enough; +and few coming empty-handed, we got a tolerable supply of small pigs, +fruit, and roots. We continued trading with them till six in the +evening; when we made sail, and stood off, with a view of plying to +windward round the island. + +In the evening of the 4th, we observed an eclipse of the moon. Mr King +made use of a night-telescope, a circular aperture being placed at +the object end, about one-third of the size of the common aperture. +I observed with the telescope of one of Ramsden's sextants; which, I +think, answers this purpose as well as any other. The following times +are the means, as observed by us both: + + Longitude. + 6^h 3' 25" beginning of the eclipse 204° 40' 45" + 8 27 25 end of the eclipse 204 25 15 + ------------ + Mean 204 35 0 + + +The _penumbra_ was visible at least ten minutes before the beginning +and after the end of the eclipse. I measured the uneclipsed part of +the moon with one of Ramsden's sextants, several times before, at, and +after the middle of the eclipse; but did not get the middle so near +as might have been effected by this method. Indeed, these observations +were made only as an experiment, without aiming at much nicety. I also +measured mostly one way; whereas I ought to have brought alternately +the reflected and direct images on contrary sides with respect to each +other; reading the numbers off the quadrant, in one case, to the left +of the beginning of the divisions; and, in the other case, to the +right hand of the same. It is evident, that half the sum of these two +numbers must be the true measurement, independent of the error of the +quadrant; and this is the method that I would recommend. + +But I am well assured, that it might have been observed much nearer; +and that this method maybe useful when neither the beginning nor end +of an eclipse can be observed, which may often happen. + +Immediately after the eclipse was over, we observed the distance of +each limb of the moon from _Pollux_ and _alpha Arietis_; the one being +to the east, and the other to the west. An opportunity to observe, +under all these circumstances, seldom happens; but when it does, it +ought not to be omitted; as, in this case, the local errors to which +these observations are liable, destroy each other; which, in all other +cases, would require the observations of a whole moon. The following +are the results of these observations: + + Myself with / _a Arietis_ - 204° 22' 07" \ mean 204° 21' 5" + \ _Pollux_ - 204 20 4 / + + Mr King with / _a Arietis_ - 204 27 45 \ mean 204 18 29 + \ _Pollux_ - 204 9 12 / + ----------- + Mean of the two means 204 19 47 + + The time-keeper, at 4^h 30', to which time all the \ 204 04 45 + lunar observations are reduced / + +The current which I have mentioned, as setting to the eastward, had +now ceased; for we gained but little by plying. On the 6th, in the +evening, being about five leagues farther up the coast, and near the +shore, we had some traffic with the natives. But, as it had furnished +only a trifling supply, I stood in again next morning, when we had +a considerable number of visitors; and we lay-to, trading with them, +till two in the afternoon. By that time, we had procured pork, fruit, +and roots, sufficient for four or five days. We then made sail, and +continued to ply to windward. + +Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane; and having, upon a trial, +made but a few days before, found, that a strong decoction of it +produced a very palatable beer, I ordered some more to be brewed for +our general use. But when the cask was now broached, not one of my +crew-would even so much as taste it. As I had no motive in preparing +this beverage, but to save our spirit for a colder climate, I gave +myself no trouble, either by exerting authority, or by having recourse +to persuasion, to prevail upon them to drink it; knowing that there +was no danger of the scurvy, so long as we could get a plentiful +supply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be disappointed in +my views, I gave orders that no grog should be served in either ship. +I myself, and the officers, continued to make use of the sugar-cane +beer whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of +which we had some on board, improved it much. It has the taste of +new malt beer; and I believe no one will doubt of its being very +wholesome. And yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it was injurious +to their health. + +They had no better reason to support a resolution, which they took on +our first arrival in King George's Sound, not to drink the spruce-beer +made there. But, whether from a consideration that it was not the +first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from some +other reason, they did not attempt to carry their purpose into actual +execution; and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed +their ignorant opposition to my best endeavours to serve them. Every +innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so much to +the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest +disapprobation. Both portable soup, and sour krout, were, at first, +condemned as stuff unfit for human beings. Few commanders have +introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of +food and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders have had the +same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to +the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great +measure, owing to various little deviations from established practice, +that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from +that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has, perhaps, destroyed +more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by +the enemy in military expeditions.[3] + +[Footnote 3: So much for the effect of ignorance and prejudice. One +requires the strong evidence of such a careful observer as Captain +Cook to be convinced of their existence, in such intense degree, among +a set of people, accustomed, from the nature of their profession, to +witness the vast variety of different manners and modes of life in +different countries; though every notion we could form of their habits +and tempers might lead us to infer _a priori_, the obstinacy with +which they would resist any innovation on their established practices. +Probably, however, when left to themselves, they readily enough fall +in with changes; and hence it may often be more judicious to put +temptations in their way, in order to obtain a salutary purpose, than +to recommend or enforce it as conducive to their welfare. It is easy +to understand, on the common principles of human nature, that the +former method will generally prove most efficient; whereas the +latter, because it implies a kind of restraint, will, consequently, be +disliked, and opposed or evaded. Sailors, on the whole, perhaps, bear +the greatest resemblance to children of any of the full-grown species. +It is of some consequence to know how to treat them as such. A little +coaxing and flattery is a very necessary ingredient in any thing +intended for them; and often it may be extremely politic to seem to +refuse, or to be averse to give them what we are at the same time +really anxious they should have. But it is easy to prescribe in such +cases!--E.] + +I kept at some distance from the coast, till the 13th, when I stood +in again, six leagues farther to windward than we had as yet reached; +and, after having some trade with the natives who visited us, returned +to sea. I should have got near the shore again on the 15th, for a +supply of fruit or roots, but the wind happening to be at S.E. by S., +and S.S.E., I thought this a good time to stretch to the eastward, in +order to get round, or, at least, to get a sight of the S.E. end of +the island. The wind continued at S.E. by S., most part of the 16th. +It was variable between S. and E, on the 17th; and on the 18th, it was +continually veering from one quarter to another; blowing, sometimes, +in hard squalls, and, at other times, calm, with thunder, lightning, +and rain. In the afternoon, we had the wind westerly for a few +hours; but in the evening it shifted to E. by S., and we stood to the +southward, close hauled, under an easy sail, as the Discovery was at +some distance astern. At this time the S.E. point of the island bore +S.W. by S., about five leagues distant; and I made no doubt that I +should be able to weather it. But at one o'clock, next morning, it +fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a north-easterly swell, +which impelled us fast towards the land; so that, long before +day-break, we saw lights upon the shore, which was not more than a +league distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. + +At three o'clock, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the S.E. by +E., blowing in squalls, with rain. We stood to the N.E., thinking it +the best tack to clear the coast; but, if it had been day-light, +we should have chosen the other. At day-break, the coast was seen +extending from N. by W., to S.W. by W.; a dreadful surf breaking +upon the shore, which was not more than half a league distant. It was +evident that we had been in the most imminent danger. Nor were we yet +in safety, the wind veering more easterly; so that, for some time, we +did but just keep our distance from the coast. What made our situation +more alarming, was the leach-rope of the main top-sail giving way, +which was the occasion of the sail's being rent in two; and the two +top-gallant sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn +out. By taking a favourable opportunity, we soon got others to the +yards, and then we left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at +some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see +her till eight o'clock. + +On this occasion, I cannot help observing, that I have always found, +that the bolt-ropes to our sails have not been of sufficient strength +or substance. This at different times, has been the source of infinite +trouble and vexation, and of much expence of canvas, ruined by their +giving way. I wish also, that I did not think there is room for +remarking, that the cordage and canvas, and, indeed, all the other +stores made use of in the navy, are not of equal goodness with those, +in general, used in the merchant service. + +It seems to be a very prevalent opinion, amongst naval officers of all +ranks, that the king's stores are better than any others, and that no +ships are so well fitted out as those of the navy. Undoubtedly they +are in the right, as to the quantity; but, I fear, not as to the +quality of the stores. This, indeed, is seldom tried; for things are +generally condemned, or converted to some other use, by such time as +they are half worn out. It is only on such voyages as ours, that we +have an opportunity of making the trial, as our situation makes it +necessary to wear every thing to the very utmost.[4] + +[Footnote 4: Captain Cook may, in part, be right in his comparison of +some cordage used in the king's service, with what is used in that +of the merchants; especially in time of war, when part of the cordage +wanted in the navy is, from necessity, made by contract. But it is +well known, that there is no better cordage than what is made in the +king's yards. This explanation of the preceding paragraph has been +subjoined, on the authority of a naval officer of distinguished rank, +and great professional ability, who has, at the same time, recommended +it as a necessary precaution, that ships fitted out on voyages of +discovery, should be furnished with no cordage, but what is made in +the king's yards; and, indeed, that every article of their store, of +every kind, should be the best that can be made.--D.] + +As soon as day-light appeared, the natives ashore displayed a white +flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friendship. Some +of them ventured out after us; but the wind freshening, and it not +being safe to wait, they were soon left astern. + +In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather the eastern +extreme, which, failed, I gave it up, and run down to the Discovery. +Indeed, it was of no consequence to get round the island; for we had +seen its extent to the S.E., which was the thing I aimed at; and, +according to the information which we had got from the natives, there +is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we were +so near the S.E. end of it, and as the least shift of wind, in our +favour, would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the +idea of weathering it, and therefore continued to ply. + +On the 20th, at noon, this S.E. point bore S., three leagues distant; +the snowy hills W.N.W., and we were about four miles from the nearest +shore. In the afternoon, some of the natives came off in their canoes, +bringing with them a few pigs and plantains. The latter were very +acceptable, having had no vegetables for some days; but the supply we +now received was so inconsiderable, being barely sufficient for one +day, that I stood in again the next morning, till within three or four +miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes, laden with +provisions. We brought-to, and continued trading with the people +in them, till four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty good +supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward. + +I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion, +in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we experienced in the +people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the +ship the several articles they brought off for barter; afterward, they +would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. +The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to +put so much confidence in us. I infer from this, that those of Owhyhee +must be more faithful in their dealings with one another, than the +inhabitants of Otaheite are. For, if little faith were observed +amongst themselves, they would not be so ready to trust strangers. +It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never +once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to commit a theft. They +understand trading as well as most people; and seemed to comprehend +clearly the reason of our plying upon the coast. For, though they +brought off provisions in great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they +kept up their price; and, rather than dispose of them for less than +they thought they were worth, would take them on shore again.[5] + +[Footnote 5: The reader is desired to pay particular attention to the +high testimony borne by Cook to the characters of these islanders. It +is a circumstance too singularly interesting not to give rise to some +painful reflections, that, on apparently good grounds, he should have +entertained the best opinion of those very people, from whom he was +destined shortly afterwards to receive the greatest of injuries. +However that event is to be explained, it seems very fair that his +evidence in their favour obtain full regard, and that they, therefore, +be entitled to any benefits it may be supposed to confer.--E.] + +On the 22d, at eight in the morning, we tacked to the southward, with +a fresh breeze at E. by N. At noon, the latitude was 20° 28' 30"; and +the snowy peak bore S.W. 1/2 S. We had a good view of it the preceding +day, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased, and to extend +lower down the hill. I stood to the S.E. till midnight, then tacked +to the N. till four in the morning, when we returned to the S.E. tack; +and, as the wind was at N.E. by E., we had hopes of weathering the +island. We should have succeeded, if the wind had not died away, and +left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward +the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length, we got our +head off, and some light puffs of wind, which came with showers +of rain, put us out of danger. While we lay, as it were, becalmed, +several of the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. +Out of one canoe we got a goose, which was about the size of a Muscovy +duck. Its plumage was dark-grey, and the bill and legs black. + +At four in the afternoon, after purchasing every thing that the +natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasion +for, we made sail, and stretched to the N., with the wind at E.N.E. At +midnight, we tacked, and stood to the S.E. Upon a supposition that the +Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted; but she did not +see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the N.; +for at day-light next morning she was not in sight. At this time the +weather being hazy we could not see far, so that it was possible the +Discovery might be following us; and, being past the N.E. part of the +island, I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering to N.E., +we could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently we +could not stand to the N, to join, or look for, the Discovery. At +noon, we were, by observation, in latitude of 19° 55', and in the +longitude of 205° 3'; the S.E. point of the island bore S. by E. 1/4 +E, six leagues distant; the other extreme bore N, 60° W., and we +were two leagues from the nearest shore. At six in the evening, the +southernmost extreme of the island bore S.W., the nearest shore seven +or eight miles distant; so that we had now succeeded in getting +to windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much +perseverance. + +The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen. But the wind, as we +had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded, that +it would not be long before she joined us. I therefore kept cruizing +off this S.E. point of the island, which lies in the latitude of +19° 34', and in the longitude of 205° 6', till I was satisfied that +Captain Clerke could not join me here. I now conjectured, that he had +not been able to weather the N.E. part of the island, and had gone to +leeward, in order to meet me that way. + +As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes, +except one, came off to us till the 28th, when we were visited by a +dozen or fourteen. The people who conducted them brought, as usual, +the produce of the island. I was very sorry that they had taken the +trouble to come so far. For we could not trade with them, our +old stock not being, as yet, consumed; and we had found, by late +experience, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots +preserved from putrefaction, many days. However, I intended not to +leave this part of the island before I got a supply, as it would not +be easy to return to it again, in case it should be found necessary. + +We began to be in want on the 30th, and I would have stood in near +the shore, but was prevented by a calm; but a breeze springing up at +midnight from S. and S.W., we were enabled to stand in for the land at +day-break. At ten o'clock in the morning, we were met by the islanders +with fruit and roots; but, in all the canoes, were only three small +pigs. Our not having bought those which had been lately brought +off, may be supposed to be the reason of this very scanty supply. We +brought-to for the purposes of trade; but, soon after, our marketing +was interrupted by a very hard rain, and, besides, we were rather too +far from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer; for I could not depend upon +the wind's remaining where it was for a moment; the swell also being +high, and setting obliquely upon the shore, against which it broke +in a frightful surf. In the evening the weather mended; the night was +clear, and it was spent in making short boards. + +Before day-break, the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, +and the new year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued, +at intervals, till past ten o'clock. The wind was southerly; a light +breeze with some calms, when the rain ceased and the sky cleared, and +the breeze freshened. Being, at this time, about five miles from the +land, several canoes arrived with fruit and roots, and, at last, +some hogs were brought off. We lay to, trading with, them till three +o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable supply, we made +sail, with a view of proceeding to the N.W., or lee-side of the +island, to look for the Discovery. It was necessary, however, the wind +being at S., to stretch first to the eastward, till midnight, when +the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. +For several days past, both wind and weather had been exceedingly +unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain. + +The three following days were spent in running down the S.E. side of +the island. For, during the nights, we stood off and on; and part of +each day was employed in lying-to, in order to furnish an opportunity +to the natives of trading with us. They sometimes came on board, +while we were five leagues from the shore. But, whether from a fear +of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of a market, +they never brought much with them. The principal article procured was +salt, which was extremely good. + +On the 5th in the morning, we passed the south point of the island, +which lies in the latitude of 18° 54', and beyond it we found the +coast to trend N. 60° W. On this point stands a pretty large village, +the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs and women. +It was not possible to keep the latter from coming on board, and no +women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it appeared to me, +that they visited us with no other view, than to make a surrender of +their persons. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no +hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under +size. However, we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds +weight. It was happy for us, that we had still some vegetables on +board, for we now received few such productions. Indeed this part of +the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording +them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a +volcano, every where presented themselves; and though we had as yet +seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had +made in this neighbourhood, was visible to the naked eye. + +This part of the coast is sheltered from the reigning winds, but we +could find no bottom to anchor upon, a line of an hundred and sixty +fathoms not reaching it, within the distance of half a mile from the +shore. The islanders having all left us, toward the evening, we ran +a few miles down the coast, and then spent the night standing off and +on. + +The next morning, the natives visited us again, bringing with them the +same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, I sent +Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to +land, and to look for fresh water. Upon his return, he reported, that, +at two cables' lengths from the shore, he had found no soundings with +a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms; that, when he landed, he +found no stream or spring, but only rain-water, deposited in holes +upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, +and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and +ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven we +saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the +island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Clerke then +coming on board, informed me, that he had cruised four or five days +where we were separated, and then plied round the east side of the +island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried +to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board +all this time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to +quit the ship, though opportunities had offered. + +Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again the next +morning, and when we were about a league from the shore, many of the +natives visited us. At noon, the observed latitude was 19° 1', and the +longitude, by the time-keeper, was 203° 26', the island extending from +S. 74° E. to N. 13° W., the nearest part two leagues distant. + +At day-break on the 8th, we found that the currents, during the +night, which we spent in plying, had carried us back considerably to +windward; so that we were now off the S.W. point of the island. There +we brought-to, in order to give the natives an opportunity of trading +with us. At noon our observed latitude was 19° 1', and our longitude, +by the time-keeper, was 203° 13', the S.W. point of the island N. 30° +E., two miles distant. + +We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It happened, that +four men and ten women who had come on board the preceding day, still +remained with us. As I did not like the company of the latter, I stood +in shore towards noon, principally with a view to get them out of the +ship; and some canoes coming off, I took that opportunity of sending +away our guests. + +We had light airs from N.W. and S.W., and calms, till eleven in the +morning of the 10th, when the wind freshened at W.N.W., which, with a +strong current setting to the S.E., so much retarded us, that, in the +evening, between seven and eight o'clock, the S. point of the island +bore N. 10-1/2° W., four leagues distant. The south snowy hill now +bore N. 1-1/2° E. + +At four in the morning of the 11th, the wind having fixed at W., I +stood in for the land, in order to get some refreshments. As we drew +near the shore, the natives began to come off. We lay to, or stood on +and off, trading with them all the day, but got a very scanty supply +at last. Many canoes visited us, whose people had not a single thing +to barter, which convinced us, that this part of the island must be +very poor, and that we had already got all that they could spare. We +spent the 12th plying off and on, with a fresh gale at W. A mile from +the shore and to the N.E. of the S. point of the island, having tried +soundings, we found ground at fifty-five fathoms depth, the bottom a +fine sand. At five in the evening, we stood to the S.W., with the wind +at W.N.W., and soon after midnight we had a calm. + +At eight o'clock next morning, having got a small breeze at S.S.E., we +steered to the N.N.W., in for the land. Soon after, a few canoes came +along-side with some hogs, but without any vegetables, which articles +we most wanted. We had now made some progress; for at noon the S. +point of the island bore S. 86-1/2° E., the S.W. point N. 13° W., the +nearest shore two leagues distant; latitude, by observation, 18° 56', +and our longitude, by the time-keeper, 203° 40'. We had got the length +of the S.W. point of the island in the evening, but the wind now +veering to the westward and northward, during the night we lost all +that we had gained. Next morning, being still off the S.W. point of +the island, some canoes came off; but they had nothing that we were +in want of. We had now neither fruit nor roots, and were under a +necessity of making use of some of our sea-provisions. At length, some +canoes from the northward brought us a small supply of hogs and roots. + +We had variable light airs next to a calm, the following day, till +five in the afternoon, when a small breeze at E.N.E. springing up, +we were at last enabled to steer along shore to the northward. The +weather being fine, we had plenty of company this day, and abundance +of every thing. Many of our visitors remained with us on board all +night, and we towed their canoes astern. + +At day-break on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr +Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time +three leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts; so that +before ten o'clock, there were no fewer than a thousand about the two +ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs and +other productions of the island. We had the most satisfying proof of +their friendly intentions; for we did not see a single person who had +with him a weapon of any sort. Trade and curiosity alone had brought +them off. Among such numbers as we had at times on board, it is no +wonder that some should betray a thievish disposition. One of our +visitors took out of the ship a boat's rudder. He was discovered, +but too late to recover it. I thought this a good opportunity to shew +these people the use of fire-arms; and two or three muskets, and as +many four-pounders, were fired over the canoe, which carried off +the rudder. As it was not intended that any of the shot should take +effect, the surrounding multitude of natives seemed rather more +surprised than frightened. + +In the evening Mr Bligh returned, and reported, that he had found +a bay in which was good anchorage, and fresh water in a situation +tolerably easy to be come at. Into this bay I resolved to carry the +ships, there to refit, and supply ourselves with every refreshment +that the place could afford. As night approached, the greater part of +our visitors retired to the shore, but numbers of them requested our +permission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at +least with some; for, the next morning, several things were missing, +which determined me not to entertain so many another night. + +At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we anchored in the bay, (which is +called by the natives _Karakakooa_,) in thirteen fathoms water, over +a sandy bottom, and about a quarter of a mile from the N.E. shore. +In this situation, the S. point of the bay bore S. by W., and the +N. point W. 1/2 N. We moored with the stream-anchor and cable to the +northward, unbent the sails, and struck yards and top-masts. The ships +continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a +multitude of canoes. I had no where, in the course of my voyage, seen +so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. For, besides +those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was +covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round +the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the +singularity of this scene; and perhaps there were few on board who +now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern +passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our +having it in our power to revisit the _Sandwich Islands_, and to +enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed, in +many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by +Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Thus ends Captain Cook's journal of his proceedings, and +the visible satisfaction which pervades the concluding sentences, as +is noticed in the Biog. Brit., must strike the mind of every reader. +They indicate the high value which our navigator attached to this last +discovery, now so irrevocably, but so painfully, associated with the +honours of his name; whilst, in his unapprehending confidence, and the +wonted calmness of his style, we see the agency of that beneficent law +in our system, by which we are preserved ignorant of the evils that +every hour and moment of our time may bring over us. Nor ought we +to omit remarking as something peculiar, that Cook's allusion to the +present comfortable opinion and feelings of his associates on the +failure of their labours in the northern hemisphere, founded, no +doubt, on the general expression of satisfaction, serves as a material +aggravation, in the way of contrast, to our conceptions of their +subsequent distress and grief, under the calamity of his most +afflicting death.--E.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE +SANDWICH ISLANDS.[1] + + +SECTION I. + +_Description of Karakakooa Bay.--Vast Concourse of the Natives.--Power +of the Chiefs over the inferior People.--Visit from Koah, a Priest and +Warrior.--The Morai at Kakooa described.--Ceremonies at the Landing +of Captain Cook.--Observatories erected.--Powerful Operation of the +Taboo.--Method of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates.--Society of +Priests discovered.--Their Hospitality and Munificence.--Reception of +Captain Cook.--Artifice of Koah.--Arrival of Terreoboo, King of the +Island.--Returned by Captain Cook._ + +[Footnote 1: The reader is informed once for all, that the notes to +the remainder of this voyage, to which no signature is attached, +are to be considered as forming a part of Captain King's own +publication.--E.] + +Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island of Owhyhee, +in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded +by two low points of land, at the distance of half a league, and +bearing S.S.E. and N.N.W. from each other. On the north point, which +is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa; and in the bottom +of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another +village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa; between them runs +a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea shore. On the south +side, the coast, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; +beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is +overspread with cultivated enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, +where the habitations of the natives are scattered in great numbers. +The shore, all round the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, +which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather, except at the +village of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, with a _morai_, +or burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at +the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit +the ships, and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, +we moored on the north side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, +Kowrowa bearing W.N.W. + +As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in +the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and +expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety +of wild and extravagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of +both ships were soon completely covered with them, and a multitude +of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming +round us in shoals, many of whom not finding room on board, remained +the whole day playing in the water. + +Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young +man, called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person of great +authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that +he was _Jakanee_[2] to the king of the island, who was at that time +engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return +within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached +him entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to +us in the management of his countrymen, as we had soon occasion to +experience. For we had not been long at anchor, when it was observed +that the Discovery had such a number of people hanging on one side, as +occasioned her to heel considerably; and that the men were unable to +keep off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, +being apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed out the +danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared +the ship of its encumbrances, and drove away the canoes that +surrounded her. + +[Footnote 2: We afterward met with several others of the same +denomination; but whether it be an office, or some degree of affinity, +we could never learn with certainty.] + +The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared from +this incident to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance +of it happened the same day on board the Resolution, where the crowd +being so great, as to impede the necessary business of the ship, we +were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of +their chiefs, who had likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. +The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he immediately +ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel; and we were not a little +surprised to see them jump overboard, without a moment's hesitation, +all except one man, who, loitering behind, and shewing some +unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms, and threw him +into the sea. + +Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, +and of countenances remarkably pleasing; Kaneena especially, whose +portrait Mr Webber has drawn, was one of the finest men I ever saw. +He was about six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with +lively, dark eyes; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. + +It has been already mentioned, that, during our long cruise off this +island, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairness and +honesty in their dealings, and had not shewn the slightest propensity +to theft, which appeared to us the more extraordinary, because those +with whom we had hitherto held any intercourse, were of the lowest +rank, either servants or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly +altered. The immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every part +of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering +without risk of discovery, but our inferiority in number held forth +a prospect of escaping with impunity in case of detection. Another +circumstance, to which we attributed this alteration in their +behaviour, was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs; +for, generally tracing the booty into the possession of some men +of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these +depredations were committed at their instigation. + +Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, +Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, +we were told, was a priest, and had been in his youth a distinguished +warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure, his eyes +exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous +scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the _ava_. Being led into +the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw +over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along +with him. Then stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a +small pig which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse +that lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently +repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many +circumstances, to be a sort of religious adoration. Their idols we +found always arrayed with red cloth, in the same manner as was done +to Captain Cook, and a small pig was their usual offering to the +_Eatooas_. Their speeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a +readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according to some +formulary. + +When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating +plentifully of what was set before him, but, like the rest of the +inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed +on to taste a second time our wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain +Cook, attended by Mr Bayly and myself, accompanied him on ashore. We +landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands +tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud +voice a short sentence, in which we could only distinguish the word +_Orono_.[3] The crowd, which had been collected on the shore, retired +at our approach; and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying +prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the +natives of Owhyhee, but we could never learn its precise meaning. +Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, +lived in the heavens. We also found that it was a title belonging to a +personage of great rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty +much the Delai Lama of the Tartars, and the ecclesiastical emperor of +Japan.] + +Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain +Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this +fatal island, it will be necessary to describe the _morai_, situated, +as I have already mentioned, at the south side of the beach at +_Kakooa_. It was a square solid pile of stones, about forty yards +long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well +paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the sculls +of the captives, sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the +centre of the area, stood a ruinous old building of wood, connected +with a rail, on each side, by a stone wall, which divided the whole +space into two parts. On the side next the country were five poles, +upward of twenty feet high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold; +on the opposite side, toward the sea, stood two small houses, with a +covered communication. + +We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an easy ascent, +leading from the beach to the N.W. corner of the area. At the +entrance, we saw two large wooden images, with features violently +distorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form +inverted, rising from the top of their heads, the rest was without +form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall +young man, with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to the +images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by +Koah, they led us to that end of the _morai_ where the five poles were +fixed. At the foot of them were twelve images ranged in a semicircular +form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or table, +exactly resembling the _whatta_[4] of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid +hog, and under it pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +plantains, and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the captain under +this stand, took down the hog, and held it toward him; and after +having a second time addressed him in a long speech, pronounced with +much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him +to the scaffolding, which they began to climb together, not without +great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming in solemn +procession, at the entrance of the top of the _morai_, ten men +carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced +a few paces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves; and Kaireekeea, +the young man above-mentioned, went to them and received the cloth, +carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the captain, and afterward +offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with the same +ceremony. + +[Footnote 4: See Captain Cook's former voyage.] + +Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, swathed +round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongst the +pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, +chanting sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately. This lasted +a considerable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and +the captain descended together. He then led him to the images before +mentioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, +snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in +the centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared +to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he +prostrated himself, and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the +same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole +of this ceremony. + +We were now led back into the other division of the _morai_, where +there was a space, ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet +below the level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook +was seated between two wooden idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, +whilst I was desired to support the other. At this time arrived a +second procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, some +bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached +us, Kaireekeea put himself at their head, and presenting the pig to +Captain Cook in the usual manner, began the same kind of chant as +before, his companions making regular responses. We observed, that, +after every response, their parts became gradually shorter, till, +toward the close, Kaireekeea's consisted of only two or three words, +which the rest answered by the word _orono_. + +When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter of an hour, +the natives sat down fronting us, and began to cut up the baked +hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts, whilst others +employed themselves in brewing the _ava_, which is done by chewing it, +in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took +part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it +in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, hands, +arms, and shoulders. The _ava_ was then handed round, and after we +had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog in +pieces, and to put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to +being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person, but Captain +Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not +swallow a morsel; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not +diminished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, +had chewed it for him. + +When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an end +to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the _morai_, after +distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron and other trifles, +with which they seemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted +us to the boats, repeating the same words as before. The people again +retired, and the few that remained, prostrated themselves as we passed +along the shore. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what +we had seen, and extremely well satisfied with the good disposition of +our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies with which +we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and +singularity, have been related at length, can only be the subject +of conjectures, and those uncertain and partial; they were, however, +without doubt, expressive of high respect on the part of the natives; +and, as far as related to the person of Captain Cook, they seemed +approaching to adoration. + +The next morning, I went on shore with a guard of eight marines, +including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the +observatory in such a situation as might best enable me to superintend +and protect the waterers, and the other working parties that were to +be on shore. As we were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this +purpose, in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready +to shew both his power and his good-will, offered to pull down some +houses that would have obstructed our observations. However, we +thought it proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet +potatoes adjoining to the _morai_, which was readily granted us; and +the priests, to prevent the intrusion of the natives, immediately +consecrated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which +it was enclosed. + +This sort of religious interdiction they call _taboo_, a word we heard +often repeated, during our stay amongst these islanders, and found +to be of very powerful and extensive operation. A more particular +explanation of it will be given in the general account of these +islands, under the article of religion; at present it is only +necessary to observe, that it procured us even more privacy than we +desired. No canoes ever presumed to land near us; the natives sat on +the wall, but none offered to come within the _tabooed_ space, till he +had obtained our permission. But though the men, at our request, would +come across the field with provisions, yet not all our endeavours +could prevail on the women to approach us. Presents were tried, but +without effect; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in +vain; we were invariably answered, that the _Eatooa_ and _Terreeoboo_ +(which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumstance +afforded no small matter of amusement to our friends on board, where +the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to +flock thither, obliged them almost every hour to clear the vessel, in +order to have room to do the necessary duties of the ship. On these +occasions, two or three hundred women were frequently made to jump +into the water at once, where they continued swimming and playing +about, till they could again procure admittance. + +From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us to attend +Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of the island, nothing +very material happened on board. The caulkers were set to work on +the sides of the ships, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and +repaired. The salting of hogs for sea-store was also a constant, +and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's attention. As the +success we met with in this experiment, during our present voyage, was +much more complete than it had been in any former attempt of the same +kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the +operation. + +It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flesh of +animals by salting in tropical climates, the progress of putrefaction +being so rapid, as not to allow time for the salt to take (as they +express it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of +the pickle. We do not find that experiments, relative to this subject, +have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In +his first trials, which were made in 1774, during his second voyage to +the Pacific Ocean, the success he met with, though very imperfect, was +yet sufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. +As the voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be +protracted a year beyond the time for which the ships had been +victualled, he was under the necessity of providing, by some such +means, for the subsistence of the crews, or of relinquishing +the further prosecution of his discoveries. He therefore lost no +opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event answered his most +sanguine expectations. + +The hogs which we made use of for this purpose, were of various sizes, +weighing from four to twelve stone.[5] The time of slaughtering was +always in the afternoon; and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and +the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight +pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out, and, in +the larger sort, the ribs also. Every piece then being carefully wiped +and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were +handed to the salters, whilst the flesh remained still warm. After +they had been well rubbed with salt, they were placed in a heap on a +stage raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with +the heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this situation they +remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and +examined, and the suspicious parts taken away. They were then put into +a tub of strong pickle, where they were always looked over once +or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the salt, which was +readily discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were immediately +taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces put to fresh pickle. +This, however, after the precautions before used, seldom happened. +After six days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and +being again slightly pressed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin +layer of salt between them. I brought home with me some barrels of +this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January, 1779, and was +tasted by several persons in England about Christmas, 1780, and found +perfectly sound and wholesome.[6] + +[Footnote 5: 14 lb.] + +[Footnote 6: Since these papers were prepared for the press, I have +been informed by Mr Vancouver, who was one of my midshipmen in the +Discovery, and was afterward appointed lieutenant of the Martin sloop +of war, that he tried the method here recommended, both with English +and Spanish pork, during a cruize on the Spanish Main, in the year +1782, and succeeded to the utmost of his expectations. He also +made the experiment at Jamaica with the beef served by the +victualling-office to the ships, but not with the same success, which +he attributes to the want of the necessary precautions in killing and +handling the beasts; to their being hung up and opened before they +had sufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-vessels were +exposed to the air, and the blood condensed before it had time to +empty itself, and to their being hard driven and bruised. He adds, +that having himself attended to the killing of an ox, which was +carefully taken on board the Martin, he salted a part of it, which, at +the end of the week, was found to have taken the salt completely, +and he has no doubt would have kept for any length of time; but the +experiment was not tried.] + +I shall now return to our transactions on shore at the observatory, +where we had not been long settled before we discovered, in our +neighbourhood, the habitation of a society of priests, whose regular +attendance at the _morai_ had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood +round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut +trees, which separated them from the beach and the rest of the +village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my +acquainting Captain Cook with these circumstances, he resolved to pay +them a visit; and, as he expected to be received in the same manner +as before, he brought Mr Webber with him to make a drawing of the +ceremony. + +On his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a sacred building +called _Harre-no-Orono_, or the house of _Orono_, and seated before +the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the same kind with +those on the _morai_. I was here again made to support one of his +arms; and, after wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by +twelve priests, made an offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. +The pig was then strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown +into the embers, and after the hair was singed off, it was again +presented, with a repetition of the chanting in the manner described. +The dead pig was then held for a short time under the captain's +nose, after which it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the +performers sat down. The _ava_ was then brewed, and handed round; a +fat hog, ready dressed, was brought in, and we were fed as before. + +During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain +Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of these priests, who went +before him, giving notice that the _Orono_ had landed, and ordering +the people to prostrate themselves. The same person, also, constantly +accompanied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a +wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives who +were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay +down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the +observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their +appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and presented them +with the usual solemnities. It was on these occasions that some of +the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an +offering to the _Orono_. When this was granted, they presented the +hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their +countenances, whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their +accustomed hymns. + +The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to mere +ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received from them, every day, +a constant supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for our +subsistence; and several canoes, loaded with provisions, were sent to +the ships with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or +even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents were made +with a regularity, more like the discharge of a religious duty, than +the effect of mere liberality; and when we enquired at whose charge +all this munificence was displayed, we were told, it was at the +expence of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and +grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was at that time absent attending the +king of the island. + +As every thing relating to the character and behaviour of this people +must be interesting to the reader, on account of the tragedy that was +afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we +had not always so much reason to be satisfied with the conduct of the +warrior chiefs, or _Earees_, as with that of the priests. In all our +dealings with the former, we found them sufficiently attentive to +their own interests; and besides their habit of stealing, which may +admit of some excuse, from the universality of the practice amongst +the islanders of these seas, they made use of other artifices +equally dishonourable. I shall only mention one instance, in which +we discovered, with regret, our friend Koah to be a party principally +concerned. As the chiefs, who brought us presents of hogs, were always +sent back handsomely rewarded, we had generally a greater supply than +we could make use of. On these occasions, Koah, who never failed in +his attendance on us, used to beg such as we did not want, and +they were always given to him. It one day happened, that a pig was +presented us by a man whom Koah himself introduced as a chief, who was +desirous of paying his respects, and we recollected the pig to be +the same that had been given to Koah just before. This leading us to +suspect some trick, we found, on further enquiry, the pretended +chief to be an ordinary person; and on connecting this with other +circumstances, we had reason to suspect, that it was not the first +time we had been the dupes of the like imposition. + +Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we were a good deal +surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to put off from the +shore, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several +hours suspense, we learned that the bay was _tabooed_, and all +intercourse with us interdicted, on account of the arrival of +Terreeoboo. As we had not foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews +of both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual supply +of vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by +threats and promises, to induce the natives to come along-side; and as +some of them were at last venturing to put off, a chief was observed +attempting to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over +his head, to make him desist, which had the desired effect, and +refreshments were soon after purchased, as usual. In the afternoon, +Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the ships in a private manner, +attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He +staid on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village +of Kowrowa. + +The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by +two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward the ships in +great state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first +canoe was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered +cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers; in the +second, came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his +brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were +busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered +with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner +with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a +black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a double row +of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of their features, +were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and +various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in +the centre-canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity; and, after +paddling round the ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, +they made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed.[7] + +[Footnote 7: The presents were made to Captain Cook after he went on +shore.] + +As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to +receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on +shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted +them into the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when the +king rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the captain's +shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet upon his +head, and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet five +or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest +value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with +sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the +ceremony was concluded by the king's exchanging names with Captain +Cook, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is +esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of priests, +with a venerable old personage at their head, now appeared, followed +by a long train, of men leading large hogs, and others carrying +plantains, sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and gestures of +Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the +priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He +had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain +Cook's shoulders, and afterwards presented him with a small pig in +the usual form. A seat was then made for him, next to the king, after +which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and +the chiefs joining in the responses. + +I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the same infirm +and emaciated old man, that came on board the Resolution when we were +off the north-east side of the island of Mowee; and we soon discovered +amongst his attendants, most of the persons who at that time had +remained with us all night. Of this number were the two younger sons +of the king, the eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and +his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at first we had some difficulty in +recollecting, his hair being plastered over with a dirty brown paste +and powder, which was no mean heightening to the most savage face I +ever beheld. + +As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over. Captain Cook +carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on +board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect +that could be shewn them; and Captain Cook, in return for the +feathered cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, and girt his own +hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half a dozen old chiefs, +remained on shore, and took up their abode at the priests' houses. +During all this time, not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives +either kept within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. Before +the king left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the +natives to come and trade with the ships as usual; but the women, for +what reason we could not learn, still continued under the effects of +the _taboo_; that is, were forbidden to stir from home, or to have any +communication with us. + + +SECTION II. + +_Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives.--Their +Hospitality.--Propensity to Theft.--Description of a Boxing +Match.--Death of one of our Seamen.--Behaviour of the Priests at +his funeral.--The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchased.--The +Natives inquisitive about our Departure.--Their Opinion about the +Design of our Voyage.--Magnificent Presents of Terreeoboo to Captain +Cook.--The Ships leave the Island.--The Resolution damaged in a Gale, +and obliged to return._ + +The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having taken away +every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate to trust ourselves +amongst them at all times, and in all situations. The officers of both +ships went daily up the country, in small parties, or even singly, +and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endless to +recount all the instances of kindness and civility which we received +upon those occasions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, +eager to offer every assistance in their power, and highly gratified, +if their services were accepted. Various little arts were practised to +attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran +before, as we walked through their villages, and stopped us at every +opening, where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one +time, we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some +other refreshment, under the shade of their huts; at another, we were +seated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their skill and +agility to amuse us with songs and dances. + +The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality was, +however, frequently interrupted by the propensity to stealing, which +they have in common with all the other islanders of these seas. This +circumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged us +to have recourse to acts of severity, which we should willingly have +avoided, if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for +them. Some of their most expert swimmers were one day discovered under +the ships, drawing out the filling nails of the sheathing, which +they performed very dexterously by means of a short stick, with a +flint-stone fixed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, +which endangered the very existence of the vessels, we at first fired +small shot at the offenders; but they easily got out of our reach by +diving under the ship's bottom. It was therefore found necessary to +make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Discovery. + +About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both ships, set out +on an excursion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of +examining its natural productions. An account of this journey will be +given in a subsequent part of our narrative. It is, therefore, +only necessary at present to observe, that it afforded Kaoo a fresh +opportunity of shewing his attention and generosity. For as soon as he +was informed of their departure, he sent a large supply of provisions +after them, together with orders, that the inhabitants of the country +through which they were to pass, should give them every assistance in +their power. And, to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of +his conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on +to accept the smallest present. After remaining out six days, our +officers returned, without having been able to penetrate above twenty +miles into the island, partly from want of proper guides, and partly +from the impracticability of the country. + +The head of the Resolution's rudder being found exceedingly shaken, +and most of the pintles either loose or broken, it was unhung, and +sent on shore on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough +repair. At the same time the carpenters were sent into the country, +under conduct of some of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the head +rail-work, which was also entirely decayed and rotten. + +On the 28th, Captain Clerke, whose ill health confined him, for the +most part, on board, paid Terreeoboo, his first visit, at his hut on +shore. He was received with the same formalities as were observed +with Captain Cook; and, on his coming away, though the visit was quite +unexpected, he received a present of thirty large hogs, and as much +fruit and roots as his crew could consume in a week. + +As we had not yet seen any thing of their sports or athletic +exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our officers, +entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though these games +were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and magnificence, +as in the skill and powers of the combatants, to what we had seen +exhibited at the Friendly Islands; yet, as they differed in some +particulars, it may not be improper to give a short account of them. +We found a vast concourse of people assembled on a level spot of +ground, at a little distance from our tents. A long space was left +vacant in the midst of them, at the upper end of which sat the judges, +under three standards, from which hung slips of cloth of various +colours, the skins of two wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches +of feathers. When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given +by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came +forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing +their hands along the soles. As they approached, they frequently +eyed each other from head to foot, in a contemptuous manner, casting +several arch looks at the spectators, straining their muscles, and +using a variety of affected gestures. Being advanced within reach of +each other, they stood with both arms held out straight before their +faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They struck, in what +appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm; +made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an +inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly +decided; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by +accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed +his triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was +intended, a loud laugh among the spectators. He then waited for a +second antagonist, and, if again victorious, for a third, till he +was at last, in his turn, defeated. A singular rule observed in these +combats is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person +may step in, and choose either of them for his antagonist, when the +other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each +other in this manner, before the match was settled. When the combat +proved longer than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs +generally stepped in, and ended it by putting a stick between the +combatants. The same good humour was preserved throughout, which we +before so much admired in the Friendly Islanders. As these games were +given at our desire, we found it universally expected that we should +have borne our part in them; but our people, though much pressed by +the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full +well the blows they got at the Friendly Islands. + +This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew; an event +which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very +rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of +his attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine +twenty-one years; after which, he entered as a seaman on board the +Resolution in 1772, and served with. Captain Cook in his voyage +toward the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich +hospital, through the captain's interest, at the same time with +himself; and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his +benefactor, he also quitted it along with him, on his being appointed +to the command of the present expedition. During the voyage, he had +been frequently subject to slight fevers, and was a convalescent when +we came into the bay, where, being sent on shore for a few days, +he conceived himself perfectly recovered, and, at his own desire, +returned on board; but the day following, he had a paralytic stroke, +which in two days more carried him off. + +At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on the +_morai_, and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our +situation permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spectators, and +preserved the most profound silence and attention, whilst the service +was reading. When we began to fill up the grave, they approached +it with great reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and +plantains; and, for three nights afterward, they surrounded it, +sacrificing hogs, and performing their usual ceremonies of hymns and +prayers, which continued till day-break. + +At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed upon it +a square piece of board, on which was inscribed the name of the +deceased, his age, and the day of his death. This they promised not to +remove; and we have no doubt but that it will be suffered to remain as +long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. + +The ships being in great want of fuel, the captain desired me, on the +2d of February, to treat with the priests, for the purchase of the +rail that surrounded the top of the _morai_. I must confess, I had, +at first, some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was +apprehensive, that even the bare mention of it might be considered, by +them, as a piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself +mistaken. Not the smallest surprise was expressed at the application, +and the wood was readily given, even without stipulating for any thing +in return. Whilst the sailors were taking it away, I observed one of +them carrying off a carved image; and, on farther enquiry, I found +that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semicircle.[1] Though +this was done in the presence of the natives, who had not shewn any +mark of resentment at it, but had even assisted them in the removal. +I thought it proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very +indifferent about the matter, and only desired, that we would restore +the centre image I have mentioned before, which he carried into one of +the priests houses. + +[Footnote 1: See description of the _morai_ in the preceding Section.] + +Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been very inquisitive +about the time of our departure. This circumstance had excited in me a +great curiosity to know what opinion this people had formed of us, and +what were their ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. +I took some pains to satisfy myself on these points; but could never +learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came from some +country where provisions had failed; and that our visit to them was +merely for the purpose of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre +appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat +down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase, +and carry off, as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to +such a conclusion. To these may be added, a circumstance which puzzled +them exceedingly, our having no women with us; together with our quiet +conduct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to see them +stroking the sides, and patting the bellies of the sailors, (who were +certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks during our +short stay in the island), and telling them, partly by signs, and +partly by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would +come again the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able to +supply their wants.[2] We had now been sixteen days in the bay; and if +our enormous consumption of hogs and vegetables be considered, it need +not be wondered that they should wish to see us take our leave. It +is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view in his +enquiries at present, than a desire of making sufficient preparation +for dismissing us with presents suitable to the respect and kindness +with which he had received us. For, on our telling him we should +leave the island on the next day but one, we observed, that a sort of +proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require +the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to +present to the _Orono_, on his departure. + +[Footnote 2: Let the reader keep this intimation in mind, when he +comes to judge of the melancholy transactions which issued in the +death of Cook. It is most clear, that these people were disposed to +be on good terms with their visitors; but that they were equally +sensible, on the other hand, of the burden which so many half-starved +guests had imposed on their hospitality. Even this, however, it would +seem, they were willing to bear, provided only they had had time to +make arrangements to do so, in a manner consistent with their own +notions of good cheer. It is perfectly easy then to understand, that +when, instead of the necessary absence of the strangers till the next +season of plenty, there elapsed a few days only, as we shall find, it +was impossible for them to form any other conception of the nature +or object of the visit, than what served to give a very different +direction to their feelings. And yet perhaps we shall be induced to +believe, that all their surprise and uneasiness would have quietly +subsided, if an unfortunate, and, in fact, merely partial altercation +had not excited it beyond its original intensity, and produced a +momentary determination to get rid by any means of such troublesome +encroachers.--E.] + +We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of +one of the natives. He held in his hand an instrument, of the sort +described in the last volume; some bits of sea-weed were tied round +his neck, and round each leg a piece of strong netting, about nine +inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loosely +fastened in rows. His style of dancing was entirely burlesque, and +accompanied with strange grimaces, and pantomimical distortions of +the face, which, though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet, on the +whole, was without much meaning or expression. Mr Webber thought it +worth his while to make a drawing of this person, as exhibiting a +tolerable specimen of the natives; the manner in which the _maro_ +is tied; the figure of the instrument before mentioned, and of the +ornaments round the legs, which, at other times, we also saw used by +their dancers. + +In the evening, we were again entertained with wrestling and +boxing-matches; and we displayed, in return, the few fireworks we had +left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration +of these islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our great +superiority, than an exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already +described the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaee; +and though the present was, in every respect, infinitely inferior, yet +the astonishment of the natives was not less. + +I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both ships, had +been sent up the country, to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the +Resolution. This was the third day since their departure; and having +received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for +their safety. We were communicating our apprehensions to old Kaoo, who +appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures +with him, for sending after them, when they arrived all safe. They had +been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, +before they met with trees fit for their purpose; and it was this +circumstance, together with the badness of the roads, and the +difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained them so +long. They spoke in high terms of their guides, who both supplied them +with provisions, and guarded their tools with the utmost fidelity. + +The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain +Cook and myself to attend him on the 3d, to the place where Kaoo +resided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of +cloth; a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres +of cocoa-nut husks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces +of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little +distance from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables, of every +kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. At first, we imagined +the whole to be intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea informed +me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people of that district +to the king; and, accordingly, as soon as we were seated, they +brought all the bundles, and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet; +spreading out the cloth, and displaying the feathers, and iron-ware, +before him. The king seemed much pleased with this mark of their duty; +and having selected about a third part of the iron-ware, the same +proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, these were set +aside, by themselves; and the remainder of the cloth, together with +all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward presented to Captain Cook +and myself. We were astonished at the value and magnitude of this +present, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had seen, +either at the Friendly or Society Islands. Boats were immediately sent +to carry them on board; the large hogs were picked out, to be salted +for sea-store; and upward of thirty smaller pigs, and the vegetables, +were divided between the two crews. + +The same day, we quitted the _morai_, and got the tents and +astronomical instruments on board. The charm of the _taboo_ was now +removed; and we had no sooner left the place, than the natives rushed +in, and searched eagerly about, in expectation of finding something +of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the +last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came +crowding about me, and having made me sit down by them, began to +lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was +able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a +trifling occurrence, in which I was principally concerned. Having had +the command of the party on shore, during the whole time w were in +the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the +natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty +required them to be generally on board. As I had every reason to be +satisfied with their kindness, in general, so I cannot too often, nor +too particularly, mention the unbounded and constant friendship of +their priests. + +On my part, I spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and +gain their esteem; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, +that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was strongly +solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the most flattering +kind. When I excused myself, by saying, that Captain Cook would +not give his consent, they proposed, that I should retire into the +mountains, where, they said, they would conceal me, till after the +departure of the ships; and on my farther assuring them, that the +captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo +waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a formal +request, that I might be left behind. The captain, to avoid giving a +positive refusal, to an offer so kindly intended, told them, that he +could not part with me at that time, but that he should return to the +island next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter to +their satisfaction. + +Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and sailed out of the +bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great +number of canoes. Captain Cook's design was to finish the survey of +Owhyhee, before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with +a road better sheltered than the bay we had just left; and in case of +not succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the south-east part +of Mowee, where the natives informed us we should find an excellent +harbour. + +We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our +progress to the northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great +number of the natives in their canoes; and Terreeoboo gave a fresh +proof of his friendship to Captain Cook, by a large present of hogs +and vegetables, that was sent after him. + +In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, we made +some way to the northward; and in the morning of the 6th, having +passed the westernmost point of the island, we found ourselves abreast +of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes +that this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious harbour, +as we saw, to the north-east, several fine streams of water, and the +whole had the appearance of being well sheltered. These observations +agreeing with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain +Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into +Britannee, the pinnace was hoisted out, and the master, with Britannee +for his guide, was sent to examine the bay, whilst the ships worked up +after them. + +In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind, +that blew off the land, were so violent, as to make it necessary to +take in all the sails, and bring-to, under the mizen stay-sail. All +the canoes left us, at the beginning of the gale; and Mr Bligh, on +his return, had the satisfaction of saving an old woman, and two men, +whose canoe had been overset by the violence of the wind, as they were +endeavouring to gain the shore. Besides these distressed people, we +had a great many women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in +their hurry to shift for themselves. + +The master reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only +village he saw, on the north side of the bay, where he was directed +to some wells of water; but found they would by no means answer our +purpose; that he afterward proceeded farther into the bay, which +runs inland to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a +very conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end of the +island; but that, instead of meeting with safe anchorage, as Britannee +had taught him to expect, he found the shores low and rocky, and a +flat bed of coral rocks running along the coast, and extending upward +of a mile from the land; on the outside of which the depth of water +was twenty fathoms, over a sandy bottom; and that, in the mean time, +Britannee had contrived to slip away, being afraid of returning, as we +imagined, because his information had not proved true and successful. + +In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made sail; +but, about midnight, it blew so violently, as to split both the fore +and main topsails. On the morning of the 7th, we bent fresh sails, +and had fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by +observation, was 20° 1' N., the W. point of the island bearing S., 7° +E., and the N.W. point N., 38° E. As we were, at this time, four or +five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, none +of the canoes would venture out, so that our guests were obliged to +remain with us, much, indeed, to their dissatisfaction; for they were +all sea-sick, and many of them had left young children behind them. + +In the afternoon, though the weather was still squally, we stood in +for the land, and being about three leagues from it, we saw a canoe, +with two men paddling towards us, which we immediately conjectured +had been driven off the shore by the late boisterous weather; and +therefore stopped the ship's way, in order to take them in. These poor +wretches were so entirely exhausted with fatigue, that had not one of +the natives on board, observing their weakness, jumped into the canoe +to their assistance, they would scarcely have been able to fasten it +to the rope we had thrown out for that purpose. It was with difficulty +we got them up the ship's side, together with a child, about four +years old, which they had lashed under the thwarts of the canoe, where +it had lain with only its head above water. They told us, they had +left the shore the morning before, and had been from that time +without food or water. The usual precautions were taken in giving +them victuals; and the child being committed to the care of one of the +women, we found them all next morning perfectly recovered. + +At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to double reef +the topsails, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at +day-break, we found that the foremast had again given way, the fishes, +which were put on the head, in King George's, or Nootka Sound, on the +coast of America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, as +to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to +unstep the mast. In this difficulty, Captain Cook was for some time in +doubt, whether he should run the chance of meeting with a harbour in +the islands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not +so remarkably commodious, in any respect, but that a better might +probably be expected, both for the purpose of repairing the masts, +and for procuring refreshments, of which, it was imagined, that the +neighbourhood of Karakakooa had been already pretty well drained. On +the other hand, it was considered as too great a risk to leave a +place that was tolerably sheltered, and which, once left, could not be +regained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the failure of +which might, perhaps, have left us without resource. + +We, therefore, continued standing on toward the land, in order to give +the natives an opportunity of releasing their friends on board from +their confinement; and at noon, being within a mile of the shore, a +few canoes came off to us, but so crowded with people, that there was +not room in them for any of our guests; we therefore hoisted out the +pinnace to carry them on shore; and the master, who went with them, +had directions to examine the south coasts of the bay for water; but +returned, without finding any. + +The winds being variable, and a current setting strong to the +northward, we made but little progress in our return; and at eight +o'clock in the evening of the 9th, it began to blow very hard from the +south-east, which obliged us to close reef the topsails; and at two in +the morning of the 10th, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close +in with the breakers, that lie to the northward of the west point +of Owhyhee. We had just room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired +several guns to apprise the Discovery of the danger. + +In the forenoon the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came +off to us; from which we learnt that the late storms had done much +mischief, and that several large canoes had been lost. During the +remainder of the day we kept beating to windward; and, before night, +we were within a mile of the bay; but, not choosing to run on while +it was dark, we stood off and on till day-light next morning, when we +dropt anchor nearly in the same place as before. + + +SECTION III. + +_Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa +Bay.--Theft on Board the Discovery and its Consequences.--The +Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her.--Captain Cook's +Observations on the Occasion.--Attempt at the Observatory.--The Cutter +of the Discovery stolen.--Measures taken by Captain Cook for its +Recovery.--Goes on Shore to invite the King on Board--The King being +stopped by his Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises.--News arrives of +one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People.--Ferment on this +Occasion.--One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is shot by +him.--General Attack by the Natives.--Death of Captain Cook. Account +of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his Character._[1] + +[Footnote 1: Every reader must feel so deeply interested in the +subject of this section, that he will naturally desire to possess +every information as to all the facts and circumstances in which it +was involved. Captain King's narrative, it may be conceived, is +likely to have every claim to implicit confidence, and to require no +additional statement in order to the most satisfactory conviction +of every mind. Such an opinion is only partially correct; and it is +evident, that the latter assertion is not a necessary inference from +the former. The narrative may be imperfect, though quite consistent +with truth, so far as it goes; and perhaps it cannot be carefully +read, without producing an impression somewhat unfavourable to +the notion of its completeness. This might be pointed out, as we +proceeded, in the usual manner of notes. But a moment's reflection +will suggest, that such interference in a case of the kind would prove +destructive of the general and proper effect of the relation, and +at the same time appear unjust towards the describer. A much better +method, and one more likely to obtain attention, presents itself. That +is, to insert the circumstantial narrative of the whole transaction, +which was drawn up by Mr Samwell, surgeon of the Discovery, and +communicated, with the highest approbation and credit, in the +Biographia Britannica, after having been separately published, by the +advice of the editor of that work, for two years, without experiencing +any objection or a single impeachment. This, therefore, will be given +at the end of the section; and will be found so extremely interesting, +as to justify its reception in an entire form. Its length, however, +and minuteness, in addition to reasons already mentioned, will +preclude both room and occasion for any other notice of the +subject.--E.] + +We were employed the whole of the 11th, and part of the 12th, in +getting out the foremast, and sending it with the carpenters, on +shore. Besides the damage which the head of the mast had sustained, we +found the heel exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle +of it, capable of holding four or five cocoa nuts. It was not, +however, thought necessary to shorten it; and, fortunately, the logs +of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks, were +found fit to replace the sprung part of the fishes. As these repairs +were likely to take up several days, Mr Bayly and myself got the +astronomical apparatus on shore, and pitched our tents on the _morai_; +having with us a guard of a corporal and six marines. We renewed +our friendly correspondence with the priests, who, for the greater +security of the workmen and their tools, _tabooed_ the place where the +mast lay, sticking their wands round it, as before. The sail-makers +were also sent on shore, to repair the damages which had taken place +in their department during the late gales. They were lodged in a house +adjoining to the _morai_ that was lent us by the priests. Such were +our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed to the account of those +other transactions with the natives, which led, by degrees, to the +fatal catastrophe of the 14th. + +Upon coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our reception very +different from what it had been on our first arrival; no shouts, no +bustle, no confusion; but a solitary bay, with only here and there a +canoe, stealing close along the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which +had before operated to so great a degree, might now indeed be supposed +to have ceased; but the hospitable treatment we had invariably met +with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us some reason +to expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy +on our return. + +We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this +extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by +the return of a boat, which had been sent on shore, and brought us +word, that Terreeoboo was absent, and had left the bay under the +_taboo_. Though this account appeared very satisfactory to most of +us, yet others were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by +subsequent events, to imagine, that there was something, at this +time, very suspicious in the behaviour of the natives; and that the +interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the king's +absence, was only to give him time to consult with his chiefs in what +manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions were +well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we +were never able to ascertain. For, though it is not improbable that +our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent cause, and the +necessity of which we afterward found it very difficult to make them +comprehend, might occasion some alarm; yet the unsuspicious conduct +of Terreeoboo, who, on his supposed arrival, the next morning, came +immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the +natives to their former friendly intercourse with us, are strong +proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended any change of conduct. + +In support of this opinion, I may add the account of another accident, +precisely of the same kind which happened to us on our first visit, +the day before the arrival of the king. A native had sold a hog on +board the Resolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, +passing by advised the man not to part with the hog, without an +advanced price. For this he was sharply spoken to, and pushed away; +and the _taboo_ being soon after laid on the bay, we had at first +no doubt but that it was in consequence of the offence given to the +chief. Both these accidents serve to shew, how very difficult it is +to draw any certain conclusion from the actions of people, with whose +customs, as well as language, we are so imperfectly acquainted; at the +same time, some idea may be formed from them, of the difficulties, +at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent, which those have to +encounter, who, in all their transactions with these strangers, have +to steer their course amidst so much uncertainty, where a trifling +error may be attended with even the most fatal consequences. However +true or false our conjectures may be, things went on in their usual +quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th. + +Toward the evening of that day, the officer, who commanded the +watering-party of the Discovery, came to inform me, that several +chiefs had assembled at the well near the beach, driving away the +natives, whom he had hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the +casks to the shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought +their behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they meant to give him +some farther disturbance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine +along with him, but suffered him to take only his side-arms. In a +short time the officer returned, and, on his acquainting me, that +the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were grown very +tumultuous I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine, with his +musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones; and, on my +speaking to some of the chiefs, the mob were driven away, and those +who chose it were suffered to assist in filling the casks. Having left +things quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming on +shore in the pinnace. I related to him what had just passed; and he +ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw stones, or behave +insolently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accordingly +gave orders to the corporal, to have the pieces of the sentinels +loaded with ball, instead of small shot. + +Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued +fire of muskets from the Discovery, which we observed to be directed +at a canoe that we saw paddling toward the shore in great haste, +pursued by one of our small boats. We immediately concluded that the +firing was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered +me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the +people as they came on shore. Accordingly, we ran toward the place +where we supposed the canoe would land, but were too late; the people +having quitted it, and made their escape into the country before our +arrival. + +We were at this time ignorant that the goods had been already +restored; and as we thought it probable, from the circumstances we had +at first observed, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to +relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having, therefore, enquired +of the natives, which way the people had fled, we followed them till +it was near dark, when, judging ourselves to be about three miles from +the tents, and suspecting that the natives, who frequently encouraged +us in the pursuit, were amusing us with false information, we thought +it in vain to continue our search any longer, and returned to the +beach. + +During our absence, a difference of a more serious and unpleasant +nature had happened. The officer, who had been sent in the small boat, +and was returning on board, with the goods which had been restored, +observing Captain Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, +thought it his duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the +shore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who, arriving +at the same moment from on board the Discovery, claimed his property, +with many protestations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give +it up, and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting +for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea was knocked down, +by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. The natives, who were +collected about the spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, +immediately attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as +forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and swim off to a +rock, at some distance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately +ransacked by the islanders; and, but for the timely interposition of +Pareea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at +the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having +driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people, that they might +come and take possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour +to get back the things which had been, taken out of it. After their +departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a midshipman's cap, and +some other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent +concern at what had happened, asked, if the Orono would kill him, and +whether he would permit him to come on board the next day? On being +assured that he would be well received, he joined noses (as their +custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship, and paddled over +to the village of Kowrowa. + +When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he expressed much +uneasiness at it; and, as we were returning on board, "I am afraid," +said he, "that these people will oblige me to use some violent +measures; for," he added, "they must not be left to imagine that they +have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take +any steps this evening, he contented himself with giving orders, that +every man and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the +ship. As soon us this order was executed, I returned on shore; and our +former confidence in the natives being now much abated, by the events +of the day, I posted a double guard on the _morai_, with orders to +call me, if they saw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven +o'clock, five islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of +the _morai_; they seemed very cautious in approaching us; and at last, +finding themselves discovered, retired out of sight. About midnight, +one of them venturing up close to the observatory, the sentinel fired +over him; on which the men, fled, and we passed the remainder of the +night without farther disturbance. + +Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Resolution for +the time-keeper; and, in my way, was hailed by the Discovery, and +informed, that their cutter had been stolen, during the night, from +the buoy where it was moored. + +When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook +loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I was relating to him +what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me, with some +eagerness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, +and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been +his usual practice, whenever any thing of consequence was lost at +any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the +principal _Erees_, on board, and to keep them as hostages, till it was +restored. This method, which had been always attended with success, +he meant to pursue on the present occasion; and, at the same time, had +given orders to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the +bay, with an intention of seizing and destroying them, if he could not +recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats of both +ships, well manned and armed, were stationed across the bay; and, +before I left the ship, some great guns had been fired at two large +canoes that were attempting to make their escape. + +It was between seven and eight o'clock when we quitted the ship +together; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr Phillips and nine +marines with him; and myself in the small boat. The last orders I +received from him, were, to quiet the minds of the natives on our +side of the bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt; to keep my +people together, and to be on my guard. We then parted; the captain +went toward Kowrowa, where the king resided; and I proceeded to the +beach. My first care, on going ashore, was to give strict orders to +the marines to remain within the tent; to load their pieces with ball, +and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old +Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them, as well as I could, the +object of the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed +them. I found that they had already heard of the cutter's being +stolen; and I assured them, that though Captain Cook was resolved to +recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and +the people of the village on our side, need not be under the smallest +apprehension of suffering any evil from us. I desired the priests to +explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to +continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great earnestness, +if Terreeoboo was to be hurt; I assured him he was not; and both, +he and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with this +assurance. + +In the mean time, Captain Cook having called off the launch, which was +stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, +proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. +He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with +the usual marks of respect; the people prostrating themselves before +him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding +that there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was to +enquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his sons, who had been his +constant guests on board the Resolution. In a short time, the boys +returned, along with the natives, who had been sent in search of +them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king +had slept. They found the old man just awoke from sleep; and, after +a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain +Cook was convinced that he was in no wise privy to it, he invited him +to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. To +this proposal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to +accompany him. + +Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already +in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the +water-side, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kabareea, the mother +of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, +and, with many tears and entreaties, besought him not to go on board. +At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of +him, and, insisting that he should go no farther, forced him to sit +down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the +shore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, +and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round +Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieutenant of +marines, observing that his men were huddled close together in the +crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms, if any occasion should +require it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks, +close to the waters edge; and the crowd readily making way for them +to pass they were drawn up in a line, at the distance of about thirty +yards from the place where the king was sitting. + +All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest +marks of terror and dejection in his countenance; Captain Cook, +not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on shore, +continuing to urge him, in the most pressing manner, to proceed; +whilst, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to +follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at first +with prayers and entreaties, but afterward had recourse to force and +violence, and insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Cook, +therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and +that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off without +bloodshed, at last gave up the point; observing to Mr Phillips, that +it would be impossible to compel him to go on board, without the risk +of killing a great number of the inhabitants. + +Though the enterprise, which had carried Captain Cook on shore, had +now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have +been in the least danger, till an accident happened which gave a fatal +turn to the affair. The boats, which had been stationed across the +bay, having fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, +unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his +death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, just as he had +left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment +it occasioned was very conspicuous; the women and children were +immediately sent off; and the men put on their war-mats, and armed +themselves with spears and stones. One of the natives, having in his +hands a stone, and a long iron pike, (which they call a _pahooa_,) +came up to the captain, flourishing his weapon, by way of defiance, +and threatening to throw the stone. The captain desired him to desist; +but the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length provoked to +fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot +were not able to penetrate, this had no other effect than to irritate +and encourage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines; and one +of the _Erees_ attempted to stab Mr Phillips with his _pahooa_, but +failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt end +of his musket. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with +ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general attack +with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of +musketry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The islanders, +contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire with great +firmness; and, before the marines had time to reload, they broke in +upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of +the utmost horror and confusion. + +Four of the marines were cut off among the rocks in their retreat, and +fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy; three more were dangerously +wounded; and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the +shoulders with a _pahooa_, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot +the man who had wounded him, just as he was going to repeat his blow. +Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was +standing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to cease +firing, and to pull in. If it be true, as some of those who were +present have imagined, that the marines and boatmen had fired without +his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any further +bloodshed, it is not improbable, that his humanity, on this occasion, +proved fatal to him: For it was remarked, that whilst he faced the +natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that having +turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the +back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing him fall, the +islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged +on shore, and surrounded, by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out +of each other's hands, shewed a savage eagerness to have a share in +his destruction. + +Thus fell our great and excellent commander. After a life of so much +distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards +himself, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the +great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather +removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquisition of +glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by those who had +so long found their general security in his skill and conduct, and +every consolation, under their hardships, in his tenderness and +humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe; +much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were +struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so +dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The reader will not be displeased +to turn from so sad a scene, to the contemplation of his character and +virtues, whilst I am paying my last tribute to the memory of a +dear and honoured friend, in a short history of his life and public +services. + +Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkshire, on the 27th +of October, 1728; and, at an early age, was put apprentice to a +shopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His natural inclination not +having been consulted on this occasion, he soon quitted the counter +from disgust, and bound himself, for nine years, to the master of a +vessel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war, in 1755, +he entered into the king's service, on board the Eagle, at that time +commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir Hugh Palliser, who +soon discovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. + +In the year 1758, we find him master of the Northumberland, the +flag-ship of Lord Colville, who had then the command of the squadron +stationed on the coast of America. It was here, as I have often heard +him say, that, during a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied +himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any other +assistance than what a few books, and his own industry, afforded him. +At the same time that he thus found means to cultivate and improve +his mind, and to supply the deficiencies of an early education, he was +engaged in most of the busy and active scenes of the war in America. +At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge +the execution of services of the first importance in the naval +department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency; +conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham; examined the +passage, and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in +proceeding up the river. The courage and address with which he +acquitted himself in these services, gained him the warm friendship of +Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronize him +during the rest of their lives, with the greatest zeal and affection. +At the conclusion of the war, he was appointed, through the +recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Palliser, to survey the +Gulf of St Laurence and the coasts of Newfoundland. In this employment +he continued till the year 1767, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward +Hawke to command an expedition to the South Seas, for the purpose of +observing the transit of Venus, and prosecuting discoveries in that +part of the globe. From this period, as his services are too well +known to require a recital here, so his reputation has proportionably +advanced to a height too great to be affected by my panegyrick. +Indeed, he appears to have been most eminently and peculiarly +qualified for this species of enterprise. The earliest habits of his +life, the course of his services, and the constant application of +his mind, all conspired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of +professional knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few. + +The constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable +of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without +difficulty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance +in him was scarcely a virtue; so great was the indifference with which +be submitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind +were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His +understanding was strong and perspicuous. His judgment, in whatever +related to the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs +were bold and manly; and both in the conception, and in the mode of +execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage +was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable presence of +mind in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. +His temper might, perhaps, have been justly blamed, as subject to +hastiness and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition +the most benevolent and humane. + +Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its most +distinguishing feature was, that unremitting perseverance in the +pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the opposition +of dangers, and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the +want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in +which he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were never in the +least abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment; +even those intervals of recreation, which sometimes unavoidably +occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons, who +have experienced the fatigues of service, will readily excuse, were +submitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could +not be employed in making further provision for the more effectual +prosecution of his designs. + +It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in which these +qualities were displayed, during the great and important enterprises +in which he was engaged. I shall content myself with stating the +result of those services, under the two principal heads to which they +maybe referred, those of geography and navigation, placing each in a +separate and distinct point of view. + +Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from the labours of +a single man, than geography has done from those of Captain Cook. In +his first voyage to the South Seas, he discovered the Society Islands; +determined the insularity of New Zealand; discovered the straits which +separate the two islands, and are called after his name; and made a +complete survey of both. He afterward explored the eastern coast of +New Holland, hitherto unknown; an extent of twenty seven degrees of +latitude, or upward of two thousand miles. + +In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem of a southern +continent, having traversed that hemisphere, between the latitudes +of 40° and 70°, in such a manner as not to leave a possibility of its +existence, unless near the Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. +During this voyage be discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in +the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand; the island of Georgia; and +an unknown coast, which he named Sandwich Land, the _Thule_ of the +southern hemisphere; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he +settled the situations of the old, and made several new discoveries. + +But the voyage we are now relating is distinguished, above all the +rest, by the extent and importance of its discoveries. Besides several +smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, he discovered, to the north +of the equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Islands; which, +from their situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an +object of consequence, in the system of European navigation, than +any other discovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had +hitherto remained unknown of the western coast of America; from the +latitude of 43° to 70° N., containing an extent of three thousand five +hundred miles; ascertained the proximity of the two great continents +of Asia and America; passed the straits between them, and surveyed +the coast, on each side, to such a height of northern latitude, as to +demonstrate the impracticability of a passage in that hemisphere, from +the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, either by an eastern or a western +course. In short, if we except the sea of Amur, and the Japanese +Archipelago, which still remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has +completed the hydrography of the habitable globe. + +As a navigator, his services were not, perhaps, less splendid; +certainly not less important and meritorious. The method which he +discovered, and so successfully pursued, of preserving the health of +seamen, forms a new æra in navigation; and will transmit his name to +future ages amongst the friends and benefactors of mankind. + +Those who are conversant in naval history need not be told, at how +dear a rate the advantages which have been sought through the medium +of long voyages at sea, have always been purchased. That dreadful +disorder, which is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages +have marked the tracks of discoverers with circumstances almost too +shocking to relate, must, without exercising an unwarrantable tyranny +over the lives of our seamen, have proved an insuperable obstacle to +the prosecution of such enterprises. It was reserved for Captain +Cook to shew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be +protracted to the unusual length of three, or even four years, in +unknown regions, and under every change and rigour of climate, not +only without affecting the health, but even without diminishing the +probability of life in the smallest degree. The method he pursued has +been fully explained by himself in a paper which was read before +the Royal Society in the year 1776;[2] and whatever improvements the +experience of the present age has suggested, are mentioned in their +proper places. + +[Footnote 2: Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him on +this occasion.] + +With respect to his professional abilities, I shall leave them to +the judgment of those who are best acquainted with the nature of the +services in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge, that, +to have conducted three expeditions of so much danger and difficulty, +of so unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation, with +uniform and invariable success, must have required not only a +thorough and accurate knowledge of his business, but a powerful and +comprehensive genius, fruitful in resources, and equally ready in the +application of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the service +required. + +Having given the most faithful account I have been able to collect, +both from my own observation and the relations of others, of the death +of my ever-honoured friend, and also of his character and services, +I shall now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration of +posterity; accepting with, a melancholy satisfaction, the honour which +the loss of him hath procured me, of seeing my name joined with his; +and of testifying that affection and respect for his memory, which, +whilst he lived, it was no less my inclination, than my constant +study, to shew him.[3] + +[Footnote 3: We shall not easily find a more excellent specimen of +biographical eulogium than what Captain King has now given us. It does +justice to his subject--and this, be it remembered, is a merit of +the highest kind; and it does justice to himself, to his own sense +of propriety and principle, which, in the warmth of their friendship, +professed admirers are too apt to sacrifice at the shrine of departed +worth. The style is suitable to the sentiments, possessing a dignified +simplicity, and an apparent rectitude of aim, which it is impossible +not to consider, as, in a great degree, resulting from intimacy +with the truly great character whom it so forcibly recommends to our +esteem, and which, therefore, may be held as no mean illustration of +the efficacy of those virtues which so eminently adorned him. In this +respect, then, Cook was peculiarly fortunate, were there no other +record to which posterity might appeal--more fortunate, by much, +indeed, than many, whose lives have been blazoned by vain-glorious +historians. We appeal, therefore, to the feelings of every reader, +whether this very circumstance, so providentially directed towards the +perpetuity of his fame, does not indicate the real superiority of such +a man as Cook over the mass of vulgar conquerors, whom, unfortunately +for the world, it has been so much and so long the fashion to admire? +Shall we ever witness the time, when the wanton destroyers of our +species, under whatever name or trappings they vaunt themselves, shall +inherit the abhorrence and the curses of humanity; and when the only +claim to applause that shall be sanctioned, must be founded, like +that of our navigator, on the ability and the disposition to confer +benefits on society? It has often been regretted, as is said in the +Biographia Britannica, that a monument has not yet been erected to +the memory of Captain Cook in Westminster Abbey. The uneasiness is not +superfluous, in so far as the honour of our country is concerned, to +which, perhaps, his exertions have really contributed as much as those +of almost any individual whose greatness is there embalmed; but to the +reputation of Cook, a monument in Westminster Abbey, we agree with +the work alluded to, would be of little or no consequence. "His fame +stands upon a wider base, and will survive the comparatively perishing +materials of brass, or stone, or marble. The name of Cook will be held +in honour, and recited with applause, so long as the records of human +events shall continue in the earth."--E. + +The following particulars, respecting the death of Captain Cook, +are taken from Mr Samwell's Narrative, as given in the Biographia +Britannica; to which, also, we are indebted for the most minute and +satisfactory account of this illustrious man ever yet published, and +to which, therefore, we refer the more inquisitive reader. + +"On the 6th of February, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the +next night, the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head +of her foremast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was +obliged to return to Keragegooah,[1] in order to have it repaired; for +we could find no other convenient harbour on the island. The same +gale had occasioned much distress among some canoes that had paid us a +visit from the shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, +was picked up by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the +men, having toiled hard all night in attempting to reach the land, +were so much exhausted that they could hardly mount the ship's side. +When they got upon the quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and +seemed much affected with the dangerous situation from which they had +escaped; but the little child appeared lively and cheerful. One of +the Resolution's boats was also so fortunate as to save a man and two +women, whose canoe had been upset by the violence of the waves. They +were brought on board, and, with the others, partook of the kindness +and humanity of Captain Cook. + +"On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles of +the harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appeared +many of our old acquaintance, who seemed to have come to welcome us +back. Among them was Coo,aha, a priest; he had brought a small pig +and some cocoa nuts in his hand, which, after having chaunted a +few sentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, +and hastened on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendly +ceremony before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day, +we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first +rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the +Discovery. His name was Ka,mea,mea: He was dressed in a very rich +feathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but would +part with it for nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, some +time before our departure, had preferred to every other article; for, +having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, they +began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea procured +nine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, he +and his attendants slept on board that night. + +"In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again in +Keragegooah bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing +the Resolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians, +because there were but few in the bay. On our departure, those +belonging to other parts had repaired to their several habitations, +and were again to collect from various quarters before we could +expect to be surrounded by such multitudes as we had once seen in that +harbour. In the afternoon, I walked about a mile into the country to +visit an Indian friend, who had, a few days before, come near twenty +miles, in a small canoe, to see me, while the ship lay becalmed. As +the canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on, I was +alarmed for the consequence; however, I had the pleasure to find that +my friend had escaped unhurt, though not without some difficulties. I +take notice of this short excursion, merely because it afforded me +an opportunity of observing that there appeared no change in the +disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that could +induce me to think that they were displeased with our return, or +jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, that +abundant good-nature, which had always characterised them, seemed +still to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance.[2] The +next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo by the +chiefs; a solemnity, it seems, that was requisite to be observed, +before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, after +his return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution, +attended by a large train, some of which bore the presents designed +for Captain Cook; who received him in his usual friendly manner, and +gave him several articles in return. This amicable ceremony being +settled, the taboo was dissolved; matters went on in the usual train; +and the next day, February the 13th, we were visited by the natives in +great numbers. The Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomical +observatories erected on their former situation. I landed, with +another gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a great +number of canoes, just arrived from different parts of the island, +and the Indians busy in erecting temporary huts on the beach for their +residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on board the +Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected in stealing +the armourer's tongs from the forge; for which he received a pretty +severe flogging, and was sent out from the ship. Notwithstanding the +example made of this man, in the afternoon another had the audacity +to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with which he +jumped overboard, and swam for the shore. The master and a midshipman +were instantly dispatched after him in the small cutter. The Indian, +seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymen took him on +board, and paddled as swift as they could towards the shore; we fired +several muskets at them, but to no effect, for they soon got out of +the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, who was at that time +on board the Discovery, understanding what had happened, immediately +went ashore, promising to bring back the stolen goods. Our boat was +so far distanced, in chacing the canoe which had taken the thief on +board, that he had time to make his escape into the country. Captain +Cook, who was then ashore, endeavoured to intercept his landing; but +it seems that he was led out of the way by some of the natives, who +had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As the master was +approaching near the landing-place, he was met by some of the Indians +in a canoe. They had brought back the tongs and chisel, together with +another article that we had not missed, which happened to be the lid +of the water-cask. Having recovered these things, he was returning on +board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, with five men in +her, who, without any orders, had come from the observatories to his +assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced, he thought himself +strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or the canoe which took +him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he turned back; and +having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparing to launch it +into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and insisted upon his +not taking it away, as it was his property. The officer not regarding +him, the chief seized upon him, pinioned his arms behind, and held him +by the hair of his head; on which one of the sailors struck him with +an oar. Pareah instantly quitted the officer, snatched the oar out of +the man's hand, and snapped it in two across his knee. At length +the multitude began to attack our people with stones. They made some +resistance, but were soon overpowered, and obliged to swim for safety +to the small cutter, which lay farther out than the pinnace. The +officers, not being expert swimmers, retreated to a small rock in the +water, where they were closely pursued by the Indians. One man darted +a broken oar at the master, but his foot slipping at the time, he +missed him, which fortunately saved that officer's life. At last, +Pareah interfered, and put an end to their violence. The gentlemen, +knowing that his presence was their only defence against the fury of +the natives, entreated him to stay with them till they could get off +in the boats; but that he refused, and left them. The master went +to seek assistance from the party at the observatories; but the +midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. He was very rudely treated +by the mob, who plundered the boat of every thing that was loose on +board, and then began to knock her to pieces for the sake of the +iron work; but Pareah fortunately returned in time to prevent +her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his way to the +observatories, and, suspecting his errand, had forced him to return. +He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to return on +board. They represented that all their oars had been taken out of the +boat; on which he brought some of them back, and the gentlemen were +glad to get off, without farther molestation. They had not proceeded +far, before they were overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe. He delivered +the midshipman's cap, which had been taken from him in the scuffle, +joined noses with them, in token of reconciliation, and was anxious +to know if Captain Cook would kill him for what had happened. They +assured him of the contrary, and made signs of friendship to him in +return. He then left them, and paddled over to the town of Kavaroah, +and that was the last time we ever saw him. Captain Cook returned on +board soon after, much displeased with the whole of this disagreeable +business; and the same night sent a lieutenant on board the Discovery +to learn the particulars of it, as it had originated in that ship. It +was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusion +attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on terms +particularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened, +with a hog to sell on board the Discovery; it was of an extraordinary +large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger, of an unusual +length. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. Captain +Clerke not having one of that length, told him, he would get one made +for him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the +hog, and went ashore without making any stay with us. It will not +be altogether foreign to the subject, to mention a circumstance that +happened to-day on board the Resolution. An Indian chief asked Captain +Cook at his table if he was a _Tata Toa_, which mean's a fighting man, +or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see his +wounds; Captain Cook held out his right-hand, which had a scar +upon it, dividing the thumb from the finger the whole length of the +metacarpal bones. The Indian being thus convinced of his being a Toa, +put the same question to another gentleman present, but he happened to +have none of those distinguishing marks; the chief then said, that he +himself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some wounds he had received +in battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories were disturbed, +during the night, with shrill and melancholy sounds, issuing from +the adjacent villages, which they took to be the lamentations of the +women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have filled their minds +with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands; but, be that as +it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual awe and +terror. + +"To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night, +took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy +of one of her anchors; they had carried her off so quietly, that we +did not miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain +Clerke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook, to acquaint him with +the accident; he returned on board, with orders for the launch and +small cutter to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and +lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes +that might attempt to get out, and, if he found it necessary, to fire +upon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution, +with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service, to the +opposite point of the bay; and the master was dispatched in the large +cutter in pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making the +best of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and by +firing a few muskets, drove her on shore, and the Indians left her; +this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title of +Orono. He was on board himself, and it would have been fortunate if +our people had secured him, for his person was held as sacred as that +of the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing to go ashore +himself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person of +Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another +part of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual +step that could be taken on the present occasion for the recovery of +the boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similar +cases, at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended +with the desired success; in fact, it would be difficult to point out +any other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain +the object in view.[3] We had reason to suppose, that the king and his +attendants had fled when the alarm was first given; in that case, it +was Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which were +hauled up on the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attended +by the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, corporal, and seven private +men; the pinnace's crew were also armed, and under the command of Mr +Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, Captain Cook ordered the +launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order to +assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice; for +it clearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting with +resistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparation +for the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, that +from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not +one, beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutely +requisite; so little did his conduct on the occasion bear the marks of +rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed with the marines +at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah; the Indians immediately +flocked round as usual, and shewed him the customary marks of +respect, by prostrating themselves before him. There were no signs of +hostilities, or much alarm among them. Captain Cook, however, did not +seem willing to trust to appearances, but was particularly attentive +to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept clear of the +crowd. He first enquired for the king's sons, two youths who were much +attached to him, and generally his companions on board. Messengers +being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informing him that +their father was asleep at a house not far from them, he accompanied +them thither, and took the marines along with them. As he passed +along, the natives every where prostrated themselves before him, and +seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always shewn to +his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom was Kanynah, +and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order, according +to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intention in +coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs or other +provisions; he told them that he did not, and that his business was +to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some of the +Indians to go in and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without to speak +with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of returning +any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red cloth to him, +which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house; he +therefore desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. The lieutenant +found the old man just awaked from sleep, and seemingly alarmed at the +message; but he came out without hesitation. Captain Cook took him by +the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go on board, to which +he very readily consented. Thus far matters appeared in a favourable +train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed or apprehensive +of hostility on our side, at which Captain Cook expressed himself +a little surprised, saying, that as the inhabitants of that town +appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molest them, +but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down before his +door, and was surrounded by a great crowd; Kanynah and his brother +were both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time, +however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears, +clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use as +armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming, +on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side of the +bay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed by +one of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had also +delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, +the women who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, and +conversing familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and +a confused murmur spread through the crowd. An old priest came to +Captain Cook, with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to him +as a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desired +to be silent, but in vain; he continued importunate and troublesome, +and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or his noise; it +seemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen, +who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in every +quarter. Captain Cook being at the same time surrounded by a great +crowd, thought his situation rather hazardous; he therefore ordered +the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to the water-side, +where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore; the Indians +readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt +them. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards; +Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied +him very willingly; he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several +chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage +noise. Keowa, the younger son, went directly into the pinnace, +expecting his father to follow, but just as he arrived at the +water-side, his wife threw her arms about his neck, and, with the +assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of a +double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose; +they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him, that he would +be put to death if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct +seemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head, +and appeared much distressed. + +"While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, +of the name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger, +partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly, with the intention +of stabbing Captain Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latter +proposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho +closing upon them, obliged the officer to strike him with his piece, +which made him retire. Another Indian laid hold of the serjeant's +musquet, and endeavoured to wrench it from him, but was prevented by +the lieutenant's making a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the tumult +increase, and the Indians growing more daring and resolute, observed, +that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do it +without sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He then paused a +little, and was on the point of giving his orders to reimbark, when a +man threw a stone at him, which he returned with a discharge of small +shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded.) The +man having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt; he +brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who +being still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with +ball, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with +the most forward of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He had +given up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appeared +impracticable; and his care was then only to act on the defensive, and +to secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which was closely +pressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king's son, +who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first fire, was, +at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for even at that time, Mr +Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook's +person was in any danger; otherwise he would have detained the prince, +which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One +man was observed, behind a double canoe, in the action of darting +his spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his own +defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward in +the tumult; the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he aimed +at, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By +this time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; +they fell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on +by those behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of +stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it +with a general discharge of musquetry, which was instantly followed by +a fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his +astonishment; he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease +firing, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr Roberts +immediately brought the pinnace as close to the shore as he could, +without grounding, notwithstanding the showers of stones that fell +among the people; but ----, the lieutenant, who commanded in the +launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook, +withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment that every thing seems to +have depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By +his own account, he mistook the signal; but be that as it may, this +circumstance appears to me to have decided the fatal turn of the +affair, and to have removed every chance which remained with Captain +Cook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marines +out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the +pinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, in +a great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what +assistance they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that +he seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the +assistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For, +notwithstanding that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from the +situation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusion +which ensued on her being withdrawn, to say the least of it, must have +prevented the full effect, that the prompt co-operation of the two +boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards the +preservation of himself and his people.[4] At that time, it was to the +boats alone, that Captain Cook had to look for his safety; for, when +the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, and forced them +into the water, where four of them were killed; their lieutenant was +wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace. +Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock; he was +observed making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the +back of his head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his +musquet under the other arm. An Indian was seen following him, +but with caution and timidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if +undetermined to proceed. At last he advanced upon him unawares, and +with a large club,[5] or common stake, gave him a blow on the back of +the head, and then precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have +stunned Captain Cook; he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand +and one knee, and dropped his musquet. As he was rising, and before he +could recover his feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the +neck with an iron dagger. He then fell into a bite of water about +knee deep, where others crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him +under: but struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and +casting his look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. +Though the boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet +from the crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems, it was not +in their power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in +deeper water; he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and +being almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, +and was endeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him +a blow with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him up +lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure in +using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of +each other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction of piercing the +fallen victim of their barbarous rage. + +"I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on this +occasion, or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough to say, +that no man was ever more beloved or admired; and it is truly painful +to reflect, that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want +of being properly supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as +having fallen to his lot, who had ever been conspicuous for his care +of those under his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as +much attention to their preservation, as to that of his own life. If +any thing could have added to the shame and indignation universally +felt on this occasion, it was to find, that his remains had been +deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although they might have +been brought off. It appears, from the information of four or five +midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of the fatal +business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by the +Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and +dispersed through the town; so that there seemed no great obstacle +to prevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenant +returned on board without making the attempt. It is unnecessary to +dwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complaints +and censures that fell on the conduct of the lieutenant. It will be +sufficient to observe, that they were so loud as to oblige Captain +Clerke publicly to notice them, and to take the depositions of his +accusers down in writing. The captain's bad state of health and +approaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy these +papers a short time before his death. It is a painful task, to be +obliged to notice circumstances, which seem to reflect upon the +character of any man. A strict regard to truth, however, compelled me +to the insertion of these facts, which I have offered merely as +facts, without presuming to connect with them any comment of my own; +esteeming it the part of a faithful historian, 'to extenuate nothing, +nor set down aught in malice.' The fatal accident happened at eight +o'clock in the morning, about an hour after Captain Cook landed. It +did not seem, that the king, or his sons, were witnesses to it; but +it is supposed that they withdrew in the midst of the tumult. The +principal actors were the other chiefs, many of them the king's +relations and attendants; the man who stabbed him with the dagger was +called Nooah. I happened to be the only one who recollected his person +from having on a former occasion mentioned his name in the journal I +kept. I was induced to take particular notice of him, more from his +personal appearance than any other consideration, though he was of +high rank, and a near relation of the king; he was stout and tall, +with a fierce look and demeanour, and one who united in his figure the +two qualities of strength and agility, in a greater degree, than ever +I remembered to have seen before in any other man. His age might be +about thirty, and by the white scurf on his skin, and his sore eyes, +he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. He was a constant companion +of the king, with whom I first saw him, when he paid a visit to +Captain Clerke. The chief who first struck Captain Cook with the club, +was called Karimano, craha, but I did not know him by his name. These +circumstances I learnt of honest Kaireekea, the priest, who added, +that they were both held in great esteem on account of that action; +neither of them came near us afterwards. When the boats left the +shore, the Indians carried away the dead body of Captain Cook and +those of the marines, to the rising ground, at the back of the town, +where we could plainly see them with our glasses from the ships. This +most melancholy accident appears to have been altogether unexpected +and unforeseen, as well on the part of the natives as ourselves. I +never saw sufficient reason to induce me to believe, that there was +any thing of design, or a pre-concerted plan, on their side, or that +they purposely sought to quarrel with us; thieving, which gave rise +to the whole, they were equally guilty of, in our first and second +visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened +between us; their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but +sometimes slightly punished; the boat, which they at last ventured +to take away, was an object of no small magnitude to people in our +situation, who could not possibly replace her, and therefore not +slightly to be given up. We had no other chance of recovering her, +but by getting the person of the king into our possession; on our +attempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, and +naturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the sudden +conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing +our excellent commander, in the manner already related. It is in this +light the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely accidental, +and not in the least owing to any previous offence received, or +jealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives. Pareah seems +to have been the principal instrument in bringing about this fatal +disaster. We learnt afterwards, that it was he who had employed some +people to steal the boat; the king did not seem to be privy to it, or +even apprized of what had happened, till Captain Cook landed. It +was generally remarked, that, at first, the Indians shewed great +resolution in facing our fire-arms; but it was entirely owing to +ignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats would +defend them from a ball, as well as from a stone; but being soon +convinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how such +execution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem, +which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew their +ingenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of the +musquets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract their +effect, and therefore, very sagaciously, dipped their mats, or armour, +in the sea, just as they came on to face our people; but finding this +last resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach +entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at the +greatest hazard, to carry off their slain; a custom, probably owing to +the barbarity with which they treat the dead body of an enemy, and the +trophies they make of his bones."[6]] + +[Footnote 1: It is proper to take notice, that Mr Samwell spells the +names of several persons and places differently from what is done +in the history of the voyage. For instance, Karakakooa, he +calls Ke,rag,e,goo,ah; Terreeoboo, Kariopoo; Kowrowa, Kavaroah; +Kaneecabareea, Kaneekapo berei; Mahai mahai, Ka,mea,mea.] + +[Footnote 2: Mr King relates, that our voyagers, upon coming to +anchor, were surprised to find their reception very different from +what it had been on their first arrival. He acknowledges, however, +that the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, the next morning, +came immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of +the natives to their former friendly intercourse with the English, are +strong proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended any change of +conduct. "Things," says Mr King, "went on in their usual quiet course +till the afternoon of the 13th."] + +[Footnote 3: Mr King acknowledges, that he was always fearful, that +the degree of confidence which Captain Cook had acquired from his +long and uninterrupted course of success, in his transactions with the +natives of these seas, might, at some unlucky moment, put him too much +off his guard.] + +[Footnote 4: I have been informed, on the best authority, that, in +the opinion of Captain Philips, who commanded the marines, and whose +judgment must be of the greatest weight, it is extremely doubtful +whether any thing could successfully have been done to preserve the +life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had been committed on the +part of the launch.] + +[Footnote 5: I have heard one of the gentlemen who were present +say, that the first injury he received was from a dagger, as it is +represented in the voyage; but, from the account of many others, who +were also eye-witnesses, I am confident, in saying, that he was first +struck with a club. I was afterwards confirmed in this, by Kaireekea, +the priest, who particularly mentioned the name of the man who gave +him the blow, as well as that of the chief, who afterwards struck him +with the dagger. This is a point not worth disputing about; I mention +it, as being solicitous to be accurate in this account, even in +circumstances, of themselves, not very material.] + +[Footnote 6: Samwell's Narrative of the Death of Captain James Cook, +p. 2-20.] + + +SECTION IV. + +_Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of Captain +Cook.--Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.--Dangerous +Situation of the Party at the Morai.--Bravery of one of the +Natives.--Consultation respecting future Measures.--Demand of the +Body of Captain Cook.--Evasive and insidious Conduct of Koah and +the Chiefs.--Insolent Behaviour of the Natives.--Promotion +of Officers.--Arrival of two Priests with Part of the +Body.--Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys.--Burning of the Village +of Kakooa.--Unfortunate Destruction of the Dwellings of the +Priests.--Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.--Departure from +Karakakooa Bay._ + +It has been already stated, that four of the marines, who attended +Captain Cook, were killed by the islanders on the spot. The rest, with +Mr Phillips, their lieutenant, threw themselves into the water, and +escaped, under cover of a smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, +a remarkable instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his +men, was shewn by that officer; for he had scarcely got into the boat, +when, seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in +the water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately +jumped into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself; +and, after receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly +sent him to the bottom, be caught the man by the hair, and brought him +safe off. + +Our people continued for some time to keep up a constant fire from the +boats (which, during the whole transaction, were not more than twenty +yards from the land,) in order to afford their unfortunate companions, +if any of them should still remain alive, an opportunity of escaping. +These efforts, seconded by a few guns that were fired at the same time +from the Resolution, having forced the natives at last to retire, a +small boat, manned by five of our young midshipmen, pulled toward the +shore, where they saw the bodies, without any signs of life, lying +on the ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, +with so small a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, +they returned to the ships, leaving them in possession of the +islanders, together with ten stands of arms. + +As soon as the general consternation, which the news of this calamity +occasioned throughout both crews, had a little subsided, their +attention was called to our party at the _morai_, where the mast +and sails were on shore, with a guard of only six marines. It is +impossible for me to describe the emotions of my own mind, during the +time these transactions had been carrying on at the other side of the +bay. Being at the distance of only a short mile from the village of +Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense crowd collected on the +spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. We heard the firing +of the musketry, and could perceive some extraordinary bustle and +agitation in the multitude. We afterwards saw the natives flying, +the boats retire from the shore, and passing and repassing, in great +stillness, between the ships. I must confess, that my heart soon +misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was concerned, it was +impossible not to be alarmed, by appearances both new and threatening. +But, besides this, I knew that a long and uninterrupted course of +success, in his transactions with the natives of these seas, had given +the captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful might, +at some unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard; and I now saw +all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without receiving +much consolation from considering the experience that had given rise +to it.[1] + +[Footnote 1: This is a very happy reflection, and implies a +discriminating power and good sense, of which, it is justice to his +talents to say, Captain King has exhibited no few or inconsiderable +examples.--E.] + +My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was, to assure the +people, who had assembled in considerable numbers round the wall of +our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how +to account for what they had seen and heard, that they should not be +molested; and that, at all events, I was desirous of continuing on +peaceable terms with them. We remained in this posture till the boats +had returned on board, when Captain Clerke, observing through his +telescope, that we were surrounded by the natives, and apprehending +they meant to attack us, ordered two four-pounders to be fired at +them. Fortunately, these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, +and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of +the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party +of them were sitting; and the other shivered a rock that stood in an +exact line with them. As I had just before given them the strongest +assurances of their safety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of +hostility; and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately dispatched +a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at present, I was on the +most friendly terms with the natives; and that, if occasion should +hereafter arise for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoist +a jack, as a signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his +power. + +We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience; and, +after remaining a quarter of an hour under the most torturing anxiety +and suspense, our fears were at length confirmed by the arrival of Mr +Bligh, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as possible, and to +send the sails that were repairing on board. Just at the same moment, +our friend Kaireekeea, having also received intelligence of the death +of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side +of the bay, came to me, with great sorrow and dejection in his +countenance, to enquire if it was true. + +Our situation was, at this time, extremely critical and important; not +only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of +at least one of the ships, being involved in the same common danger. +We had the mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, +on shore, under the protection of only six marines: Their loss would +have been irreparable; and though the natives had not as yet shewn the +smallest disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer +for the alteration which the news of the transaction at Kowrowa might +produce. I therefore thought it prudent to dissemble my belief of +the death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage +the report; lest either the fear of our resentment, or the successful +example of their countrymen, might lead them to seize the favourable +opportunity, which at this time offered itself, of giving us a second +blow. At the same time I advised him to bring old Kaoo and the rest of +the priests, into a large house that was close to the _morai_; partly +out of regard to their safety, in case it should have been found +necessary to proceed to extremities; and, partly, to have him near us, +in order to make use of his authority with the people, if it could be +instrumental in preserving peace. + +Having placed the marines on the top of the _morai_, which formed +a strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr Bligh, +giving him the most positive directions to act entirely on the +defensive, I went on board the Discovery, in order to represent to +Captain Clerke the dangerous situation of our affairs. As soon as I +quitted the spot, the natives began to annoy our people with stones; +and I had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of the +marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where I found things +growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and +putting on their mats; and their numbers increased very fast. I could +also perceive several large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff +which separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, +where the village of Kowrowa is situated. + +They began at first to attack us with stones, from behind the walls +of their enclosures; and finding no resistance on our part, they +soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows, having crept along the +beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the +foot of the _morai_, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on +the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part; and were +not dislodged, till after they had stood a considerable number of +shot, and seen one of their party fall. + +The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be +particularly mentioned; for, having returned to carry off his +companion, amidst the fire of our whole party, a wound which he +received made him quit the body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he +again appeared, and being again wounded, he was obliged a second +time to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the _morai_, and saw him +return the third time, bleeding and faint; and being informed of what +had happened, I forbade the soldiers to fire, and he was suffered to +carry off his friend; which he was just able to perform, and then fell +down himself, and expired. + +About this time a strong reinforcement from both ships having landed, +the natives retreated behind their walls; which, giving me access to +our friendly priests, I sent one of them to endeavour to bring their +countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would +desist from throwing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. This +truce was agreed to; and we were suffered to launch the mast, and +carry off the sails, and our astronomical apparatus, unmolested. As +soon as we had quitted the _morai_, they took possession of it, and +some of them threw a few stones, but without doing us any mischief. + +It was half an hour past eleven o'clock when I got on board the +Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our +future proceedings. The restitution of the boat, and the recovery of +the body of Captain Cook, were the objects which, on all hands, we +agreed to insist on; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps +should be taken, in case the demand of them was not immediately +complied with. + +Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured friend, may +be suspected to have had some share in this opinion, yet there were +certainly other reasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had +considerable weight with me. The confidence which their success in +killing our chief, and forcing us to quit the shore, must naturally +have inspired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had +obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, encourage +them to make some further dangerous attempts; and the more especially, +as they had little reason, from what they had hitherto seen, to dread +the effects of our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations +of every one, this sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in +them. On our side, such was the condition of the ships, and the state +of discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous attack been made on +us in the night, it would have been impossible to answer for the +consequences. + +In these apprehensions, I was supported by the opinion of most of the +officers on board; and nothing seemed to me so likely to encourage the +natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined +to an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weakness or +fear. + +In favour of more conciliatory measures, it was justly urged, that +the mischief was done, and irreparable; that the natives had a +strong claim to our regard, on account of their former friendship and +kindness; and the more especially, as the late melancholy accident did +not appear to have arisen from any premeditated design; that, on +the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to +accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his +two sons into the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of +suspicion; that the conduct of his women and the _Erees_ might easily +be accounted for, from the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force +with which Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations +in the bay; appearances so different from the terms of friendship and +confidence, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming +of the natives was evidently with a design to resist the attempt, +which they had some reason to imagine would be made, to carry off +their king by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people +full of affection and attachment to their chiefs. + +To these motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were +added; that we were in want of water and other refreshments; that +our foremast would require six or eight days work before it could +be stepped; that the spring was advancing apace; and that the speedy +prosecution of our next northern expedition ought now to be our sole +object; that, therefore, to engage in a vindictive contest with the +inhabitants, might not only lay us under the imputation of unnecessary +cruelty, but would occasion an unavoidable delay in the equipment of +the ships. + +In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and though I was +convinced, that an early display of vigorous resentment would more +effectually have answered every object both of prudence and humanity, +I was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. +For, though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their +subsequent opposition to our necessary operations on shore, arising, +I have no doubt, from a misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at +last to have recourse to violence in our own defence; yet I am not so +sure that the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of +the world, have justified the use of force on our part in the first +instance. Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious; and has this +additional objection to it, that the severity of a preventive course, +when it best succeeds, leaves its expediency the least apparent. + +During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting some plan for +our future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept +possession of the shore; and some of them came off in canoes, and +had the boldness to approach, within pistol-shot of the ships, and to +insult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great +difficulty we could restrain the sailors from the use of their arms +on these occasions; but as pacific measures had been, resolved on, the +canoes were suffered to return unmolested. In pursuance of this plan, +it was determined, that I should proceed toward the shore, with the +boats of both ships, well manned and armed; with a view to bring the +natives to a parley, and, if possible, to obtain a conference with +some of the chiefs. + +If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and +particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them with our vengeance +in case of a refusal; but by no means to fire, unless attacked; and +not to land on any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me +before the whole party, and in the most positive manner. + +I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon; and, as we +approached the shore, I perceived every indication of a hostile +reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion; the women and +children retiring; the men putting on their war-mats, and arming +themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed, that since +the morning they had thrown up stone breast-works along the beach +where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at +that place; and as soon as we were within reach, they began to throw +stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding, +therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in +vain, unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence, I +ordered the armed boats to stop, and went on in the small boat alone, +with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the +natives, I had the satisfaction to find was instantly understood. The +women immediately returned from the side of the hill, whither they had +retired; the men threw off their mats, and all sat down together +by the water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on +shore. + +Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, +yet I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. +But when I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether +unaccountable, swimming off toward the boat, with a white flag in his +hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and +therefore received him into the boat, though armed; a circumstance +which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess I had long +harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. The priests had always +told us that he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of ours; +and the repeated detections of his fraud and treachery had convinced +us of the truth of their representations. Add to all this, the +shocking transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a +principal part, made me feel the utmost horror at finding myself so +near him; and as he came up to me, with feigned tears, and embraced +me, I was so distrustful of his intentions, that I could not help +taking hold of the point of the _pahooah_, which he held in his hand, +and turning it from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the +body of Captain Cook; and to declare war against them, unless it +was instantly restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as +possible; and that he would go himself for that purpose; and, after +begging of me a piece of iron, with as much assurance as if nothing +extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore, +calling out to his countrymen that we were all friends again. + +We waited near an hour, with great anxiety, for his return; during +which time the rest of the boats had approached so near the shore +as to enter into conversation with a party of the natives, at some +distance from us; by whom they were plainly given to understand, that +the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of +this circumstance I was not informed till our return to the ships. + +I began now to express some impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the +chiefs pressed me to come on shore; assuring me, that if I would go +myself to Terreeoboo, the body would certainly be restored to me. When +they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under +a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to decoy our boat +among some rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut +us off from the rest. It was no difficult matter to see through these +artifices; and I was, therefore, strongly inclined to break off all +further communication with them, when a chief came to us, who was +the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of the +Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed when we last left the +bay, intending to take his passage to _Mowee_. He told us, that he +came from Terreeoboo, to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the +country; but that it should be brought to us the next morning. There +appeared a great deal of sincerity in his manner; and being asked if +he told a falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is +understood amongst these islanders as the sign of truth; in the use of +which they are very scrupulous. + +As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent Mr Vancouver +to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had passed; that my opinion +was they meant not to keep their word with us; and were so far from +being sorry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were +full of spirits and confidence on account of their late success, and +sought only to gain time, till they could contrive some scheme for +getting us into their power. Mr Vancouver came back with orders for me +to return on board; having given the natives to understand, that, +if the body was not brought the next morning, the town should be +destroyed. + +When they saw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us +by the most insulting and contemptuous gestures. Some of our people +said they could distinguish several of the natives parading about +in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and among them a chief, +brandishing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the scabbard. +Indeed, there can be no doubt but that our behaviour had given them a +mean opinion of our courage, for they could have but little notion of +the motives of humanity that directed it. + +In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I +conceived to be the present temper and disposition of the islanders, +the most effectual measures were taken to guard against any attack +they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; +additional sentinels were posted on both ships; and guard-boats were +stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from +cutting the cables. During the night we observed a prodigious number +of lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they were +removing their effects back into the country, in consequence of our +threats. But I rather believe them to have been sacrifices that were +performing on account of the war in which they imagined themselves +about to be engaged; and, most probably, the bodies of our slain +countrymen were at that time burning. We afterwards saw fires of the +same kind, as we passed the island of Morotoi; and which, we were told +by some natives then on board, were made on account of the war they +had declared against a neighbouring island. And this agrees with what +we learned amongst the Friendly and Society Isles, that, previous +to any expedition against an enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to +animate and inflame the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings +in the night. + +We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by the howlings and +lamentations which were heard on shore; and early the next morning +Koah came alongside the Resolution, with a present of cloth and a +small pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned +before, that I was supposed, by the natives, to be the son of Captain +Cook; and as he, in his lifetime, had always suffered them to believe +it, I was probably considered as the chief after his death. As soon as +I came on deck, I questioned, him about the body; and on his returning +me nothing but evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents; +and was going to dismiss him, with some expressions of anger and +resentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it best, at all events, to +keep up the appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that he +should be treated with the usual respect. + +This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during the course of +the forenoon, with some trifling present or other; and, as I always +observed him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I +look care he should see we were well prepared for our defence. + +He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myself, to go +on shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the +other chiefs; and assuring us that every thing might be settled to +our satisfaction by a personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, +his conduct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this +request; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which +proved the entire falsehood of his pretences: For we were told, that, +immediately after the action, in which Captain Cook was killed, the +old king had retired to a cave in the steep part of the mountain that +hangs over the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, +and where he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to +him by cords. + +When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his +countrymen, who had been collected, by break of day, in vast crowds on +the shore, thronged about him with great eagerness; as if to learn the +intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequence +of it. It is very probable, that they expected we should attempt to +put our threats in execution; and they seemed fully resolved to stand +their ground. During the whole morning we heard conchs blowing in +different parts of the coast; large parties were seen marching over +the hills; and, in short, appearances were so alarming, that we +carried out a stream-anchor, to enable us to haul the ship abreast +of the town, in case of an attack; and stationed boats off the north +point of the bay, to prevent a surprise from that quarter. + +The breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, and +the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned +fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. +It was at last determined, that nothing should be suffered to +interfere with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our +departure; but that we should, nevertheless, continue our negotiations +for the recovery of the bodies. + +The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast +into a proper situation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; +and in making the necessary alterations in the commissions of the +officers. The command of the expedition having devolved on Captain +Clerke, he removed on board the Resolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore +to be captain of the Discovery, and promoted Mr Harvey, a midshipman, +who had been with Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the vacant +lieutenancy. During the whole day we met with no interruption from the +natives; and at night the launch was again moored with a top-chain; +and guard-boats stationed round both ships as before. + +About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling +toward the ship; and as soon as it was seen both the sentinels on +deck fired into it. There were two persons in the canoe, and they +immediately roared out "_Tinnee!_" which was the way in which they +pronounced my name, and said they were friends, and had something +for me belonging to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw +themselves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily, +neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had +gone through the canoe. One of them was the person, whom I have before +mentioned under the name of the _Taboo man_, who constantly attended +Captain Cook with the circumstances of ceremony I have already +described; and who, though a man of rank in the island, could scarcely +be hindered from performing for him the lowest offices of a menial +servant. After lamenting, with abundance of tears, the loss of the +_Orono_, he told us, that he had brought us a part of his body. He +then presented to us a small bundle, wrapped up in cloth, which he +brought under his arm; and it is impossible to describe the horror +which seized us, on finding in it a piece of human flesh, about nine +or ten pounds weight. This, he said, was all that remained of the +body; that the rest was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the head +and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the +possession of Terreeoboo and the other _Erees_; that what we saw had +been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, to be made use of +in some religious ceremony; and that he had sent it as a proof of his +innocence and attachment to us. + +This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves whether they were +cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We first tried, by many indirect +questions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest +of the bodies had been disposed of; and finding them very constant in +one story, that, after the flesh had been cut off, it was all burnt, +we at last put the direct question, whether they had not eat some of +it? They immediately shewed as much horror at the idea as any European +would have done; and asked, very naturally, if that was the custom +amongst us? They afterward asked us, with great earnestness and +apparent apprehension, "When the _Orono_ would come again; and what he +would do to them on his return?" The same enquiry was frequently made +afterward by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenor of +their conduct toward him, which shewed that they considered him as a +being of a superior nature. + +We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning, +but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction should come to the +knowledge of the king, or chiefs, it might be attended with the most +fatal consequences to their whole society; in order to prevent which +they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the same +precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. They informed +us farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their +countrymen; and particularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, +they said, was our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing +more ardently than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing +of the conchs, we heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge. + +We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were +killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were chiefs; +and that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were +unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the +observatory, three of whom were also of the first rank. + +About eleven o'clock our two friends left us, and took the precaution +to desire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had passed +the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which might alarm +their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the danger of +being discovered. This request was complied with; and we had the +satisfaction to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to land. + +During the remainder of this night, we heard the same loud howling +and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, +we received another visit from Koah. I must confess, I was a little +piqued to find, that notwithstanding the most evident marks of +treachery in his conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends +the priests, he should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, +and to make us at least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. +Indeed our situation was become extremely awkward and unpromising; +none of the purposes for which this pacific course of proceeding had +been adopted, having hitherto been in the least forwarded by it. No +satisfactory answer whatever had been given to our demands; we did not +seem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the islanders; +they still kept in force on the shore, as if determined to resist +any attempts we might make to land; and yet the attempt was become +absolutely necessary, as the completing our supply of water would not +admit of any longer delay. + +However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain +Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great number of the +natives, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, +an attack could not have been made without some danger; and that the +loss of a very few men might have been severely felt by us, during the +remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of +our threats, though on the one hand it lessened their opinion of our +power, had the effect of causing them to disperse on the other. For +this day, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great +bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of +defiance, marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward. +Those, however, who remained, were not the less daring and insolent. +One man had the audacity to come within musket-shot a-head of the +ship; and, after slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain +Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting +and encouraging his boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this +insult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, begged they might +no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations; and +requested me to obtain permission for them from Captain Clerke, to +avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of +their commander. On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave +orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore; and +promised the crew, that if they should meet with any molestation at +the watering-place the next day, they should then be left at liberty +to chastise them. + +It is somewhat remarkable, that before we could bring our guns to +bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions, from the stir they +saw in the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. +We were therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random; +notwithstanding which, our shot produced all the effects that could +have been desired; for, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, +with extreme haste, and on his arrival we learned, that some people +had been killed, and amongst the rest, Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, +and a near relation of the king.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The word _matee_ is commonly used, in the language of +these islands, to express either killing or wounding; and we were +afterwards told, that this chief had only received a slight blow on +the face from a stone, which had been struck by one of the balls.] + +Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from, the _morai_ +toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand; and after +they had approached pretty near, they began to chant a song in a very +solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often mentioning +the word _Orono_, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was +killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung +in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the +whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the +Discovery and delivered their spears, and after making a short stay, +returned on shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this +ceremony, we were never able to learn. + +At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the +ships; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had visited +us the night before, came off again. They assured us, that though the +effects of our great guns, this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs +exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile intentions, +and advised us to be on our guard. + +The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water, +and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover +that service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests +had sent us, was not without foundation; and that the natives were +resolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when, it could be +done without much risk. + +Throughout all this group of islands, the villages, for the most part, +are situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with +stone walls, about three feet high. These, we at first imagined, were +intended for the division of property; but we now discovered, that +they served, and probably were principally designed, for a defence +against invasion. They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants +are very dexterous in shifting them with great quickness, to such +situations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the sides +of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have also little +holes, or caves, of considerable depth, the entrance of which is +secured by a fence of the same kind. From behind both these defences, +the natives kept perpetually harassing our waterers with stones; nor +could the small force we had on shore, with the advantage of muskets, +compel them to retreat. + +In this exposed situation, our people were so taken up in attending +to their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling +only one ton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this +service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, +the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with her great guns, +which being effected by a few discharges, the men landed without +molestation. However, the natives soon after made their appearance +again, in their usual mode of attack; and it was now found absolutely +necessary to burn down some straggling houses near the well, behind +which they had taken shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to +add, that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty +and devastation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their +resentment of the repeated insults and contemptuous behaviour of the +islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging the loss of their +commander. But, at the same time, their conduct served strongly to +convince me, that the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, +though but for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands +of private seamen or soldiers on such occasions. The rigour of +discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is +kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough to +conceive, that whatever they have the power; they have also the right +to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they +are accustomed to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the +only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that +what they can do with impunity, they may do with justice and honour. +So that the feelings of humanity, which are inseparable from us all, +and that generosity toward an unresisting enemy, which at other times +is the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints +to the exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire they naturally +have of shewing their own independence and power.[3] + +[Footnote 3: In the preceding remarks, we have another strong +confirmation, if any additional one were wanting, of the opinions +formerly given respecting the character and usual conduct of sailors. +Nor are they less imperative, as to the expediency of modifying the +education and treatment of that useful class of subjects, than what +we ventured, on another occasion, to suggest. They have, however, the +recommendation of experience, to which, in general, more regard is +properly enough shewn, than can be expected towards arguments drawn +from merely abstract opinions, too often so remote from the common +track of life as to be quite inapplicable to the diversities and +complicated relations of human societies.--E.] + +I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to burn only a +few straggling huts, which afforded shelter to the natives. We were +therefore a good deal surprised to see the whole village on fire; and +before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, +could reach the shore, the houses of our old and constant friends, the +priests, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that +confined me on board this day. The priests had always been under my +protection; and unluckily the officers who were then on duty, having +been seldom ashore at the _morai_, were not much acquainted with +the circumstances of the place. Had I been present myself, I might +probably have been, the means of saving their little society from +destruction. + +Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape from the +flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought +them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us +all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was shot at by one of +the marines. The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw +from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before +described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater +courage and fierceness, till at last, after having kept two of our +people at bay for a considerable time, he expired, covered with +wounds. It was this accident that first brought us acquainted with the +use of these caverns. + +At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on +board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never +saw horror so strongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor so +violent a transition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, +and told he might go away in safety. He shewed us he did not want +gratitude, as he frequently afterward returned with presents of +provisions, and also did us other services. + +Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down the hill, +a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white +cloth, green boughs, and plantains, &c. in their hands. I know not how +it happened, that this peaceful embassy, as soon as they were within +reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not +stop them. They continued their procession, and the officer on duty +came up in time to prevent a second discharge. As they approached +nearer, it was found to be our much-esteemed friend Kairekeea, who had +fled on our first setting fire to the village, and had now returned, +and desired to be sent on board the Resolution. + +When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We +endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of +setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his +brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with +us on our want of friendship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it +was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had +done them. He told us, that relying on the promises I had made them, +and on the assurances they had afterward received from the men, who +had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their +effects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, but +had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what +they had collected from us, into a house close to the _morai_, where +they had the mortification to see it all set on fire by ourselves.[4] + +[Footnote 4: How painful, on the other hand, must this occurrence +have proved to a man of King's refined feelings and sentiments! But it +ought not to be forgotten, that even such an event, though not at all +intended, was almost a necessary consequence of the conduct, which, in +a moment of irritation, not however totally disjoined from every plea +of prudence, he himself had thought right to prescribe. So impolitic, +and so blind in the distribution of mischief, is revenge, though +apparently sanctioned by the hope and calculation of advantage.--E.] + +On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on +the deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great +earnestness, that they might be thrown overboard. This request Captain +Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with. + +In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met +with no farther interruption. We passed a gloomy night; the cries and +lamentations we heard on shore being far more deadful than ever. Our +only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occasion, in +future, for a repetition of such severities. + +It is very extraordinary, that amidst all these disturbances, the +women of the island who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor +discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their +friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of +them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire +the sight, and frequently cried out, that it was _maitai_, or very +fine. + +The next morning, Koah came off as usual to the ships. As there +existed no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was +allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the side of +the ship, singing a song, and offering me a hog and some plantains, I +ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without +Captain Cook's bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his +frequent breach of promise. He did not appear much mortified with this +reception, but went immediately on shore, and joined a party of his +countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the +young man who had been killed the day before, was found this morning, +lying at the entrance of the cave; and some of our people went and +threw a mat over it; soon after which, they saw some men carrying him +off on their shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, +a mournful song. + +The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the want of +ability to punish them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their +provocations, desisted from giving us any farther molestation; and, in +the evening, a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom +we knew to be a man of the very first consequence, came with presents +from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, and he +was dismissed with the same answer which had before been given, that +until the remains of Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would +be granted. We learned from this person, that the flesh of all the +bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been +burnt, that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongst the +inferior chiefs, and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of +in the following manner: The head to a great chief called Kahoo-opeon, +the hair to Maiha-maiha, and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. +After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and +other vegetables, and we also received two large presents of the same +articles from Kaireekeea. + +The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages +which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very +pressing that one of our officers should go on shore; and, in the mean +time, offered to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, +it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a +promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach, the +waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives; who, +notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again, without +the smallest appearance of diffidence or apprehension. + +Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction of getting +the foremast stepped. It was an operation attended with great +difficulty and some danger, our ropes being so exceedingly rotten, +that the purchase gave way several times. + +Between ten and eleven o'clock, we saw a great number of people +descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession, +each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and +bread-fruit, _taro_, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded +by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by +a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those who had +followed them, advanced one by one, and having deposited the presents +they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came +in sight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great +solemnity in his hands; and having placed himself on a rock, he made +signs for a boat to be sent to him. + +Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain +Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to +receive them, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we +arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered +to the captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new +cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. +He afterward attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed +upon to go on board, probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, +to be present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the +hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable +scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the +whole length of the metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp +separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the +scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it; +the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to +them; the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet. +The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident +marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the +flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places, and crammed with +salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a +cut in the back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. +The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had been +seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every means +to recover them. + +The next morning, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought +with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrels of his gun, +his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took +great pains to convince us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, +were most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the +most convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been +prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were +still our enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of +six chiefs we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best +friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people, +very probably in revenge for the blow that had been given him, and +that it had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines which +we had also demanded, he assured us had been carried off by the common +people, and were irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone having +been preserved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the Erees. + +Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and +unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to _taboo_ +all the bay; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a +coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the +deep with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this +occasion I leave the world to conceive; those who were present know +that it is not in my power to express them. + +During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the +bay; the _taboo_ which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our +request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. +We assured him that we were now entirely satisfied; and that as the +_Orono_ was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with +him. We afterward desired him to take off the _taboo_, and to make +it known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The +ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came +on board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their +satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who +did not visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. +Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was refused +admittance. + +As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke imagining, +that if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to +leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders, to unmoor. +About eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo +and the friendly Kaireekeea took an affectionate leave of us. We +immediately weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were +collected on the shore in great numbers; and, as we passed along, +received our last farewells with every mark of affection and +good-will.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Would it not be generally advantageous for mankind +to consider, when they are about to engage, or are engaged, in +hostilities against each other, that it is highly probable, nay +in most cases certain, that they shall one day come to a good +understanding, and regret that their altercation had been so mutually +destructive? Would not a notion of this kind, far enough indeed from +being any effect or symptom of weakness, contribute essentially to +what is surely always a good thing, the moderation of men's passions; +and have, therefore, the beneficial tendency, at really the least +expence and suffering, to accomplish the only legitimate and avowed +end of war, a safe and honourable peace? But no termination of a +struggle is entitled to be called either the one or the other, which, +resulting merely from the experience of common exhaustion and mutual +inability, leaves the parties to grumble over the relics of their +animosity, and to brood on their misfortunes, till new means and +spirits be produced to resume the conflict. There is much wisdom in +the language which a deceased statesman used, when he spoke of "making +peace in the spirit of peace," as the only remedy for the political +disorders of the world. But this disposition, it seems morally +certain, cannot exist, unless in union with the anticipation of the +comforts and vastly superior benefits which such a consummation can +afford,--E.] + + +SECTION V. + +_Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the South-East +Side of Mowee.--Driven to Leeward by the Easterly Winds and +Current.--Pass the Island of Tahoorowha.--Description of the +South-West Side of Mowee.--Run along the Coasts of Ranai and +Morotoi to Woahoo.--Description of the North-East Coast of +Woahoo.--Unsuccessful Attempt to Water.--Passage to Atooi.--Anchor in +Wymoa Bay.--Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.--Civil +Dissensions in the Islands.--Visit from the contending Chiefs.--Anchor +off Oneeheow.--Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands._ + +We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood +to the northward, with an intention of searching for a harbour on the +S.E. side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the +natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to leeward by a +heavy swell from the N.E., and a fresh gale springing up from the +same quarter, carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we +tacked, and stood to the S. for four hours, in order to keep clear of +the land; and at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small +barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to +the S.W. of Mowee. + +All prospect of examining more nearly the S.E. parts of Mowee being +now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the S.E. side of Tahoorowa. +As we were steering close round its western extremity, with an +intention of fetching the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our +water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks almost +right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when +we again steered to the northward; and, after passing over a bank, +with nineteen fathoms water, stood for a passage between Mowee and an +island called Ranai. At noon the latitude was by observation, 20° 42' +N., and the longitude 203° 22' E.; the southern extremity of Mowee +bearing E.S.E. 1/4 E.; the southern extremity of Ranai W.N.W. 1/4 W.; +Morotoi, N.W. and by N.; and the western extremity of Tahoorowa, S. +by E., seven miles distant. Our longitude was accurately deduced from +observations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared +with the longitude found by a great many distances of the moon from +the sun and stars, which were also observed the same day. + +In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the W., +we stood on to the N.N.W.; but at sun-set, observing a shoal, which +appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the W. point +of Mowee, toward the middle of the passage, and the weather being +unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the S. + +The S.W. side of this island, which we now had passed without being +able to get near the shore, forms the same distant view with the N.E., +as seen on our return from the N., in November 1778; the mountainous +parts, which are connected by a low flat isthmus, appearing at first +like two separate islands. This deception continued on the S.W. side, +till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the coast, which, +bending inward to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The +westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned runs, is +made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which there +is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number of +cocoa-nut trees growing about them. + +During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the +natives, who came off to sell provisions, and we soon found that they +had heard of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were +very curious to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed +herself on board the Resolution, in order to take her passage to +Atooi; enquiring eagerly after Pareea and some other chiefs, and +appearing much shocked at the death of Kaneena and his brother. We +had, however, the satisfaction to find that, in whatever light the +woman might have represented this business, it had no bad effect on +their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and submissive. + +The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning +of the 25th, having the wind at E., we ran along the S. side of Ranai, +till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till +evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the W. +part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from +the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the N.E., changed its +direction to the S.E. + +During the night, the wind was again variable; but early next morning +it settled at E., and blew so fresh as to oblige us to double-reef +the top-sails. At seven, in hauling round the W. point of Morotoi, we +opened a small bay, at the distance of about two leagues, with a fine +sandy beach; but seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to +the N., in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we +had seen at our first visit in January 1778. + +At two in the afternoon, we saw the land bearing W. by N., eight +leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it was dark, we again +bore away at day-light on the 27th; and at half-past ten, were within +a league of the shore, near the middle of the N.E. side of the island. + +The coast to the northward is formed of detached hills, rising +perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken summits, the +sides covered with wood, and the vallies between them of a fertile and +well-cultivated appearance. To the southward we saw an extensive bay, +bounded by a low point of land to the S.E., which was covered with +cocoa-nut trees, and off it stood a high insulated rock, about a +mile from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented our seeing +distinctly the land to the southward of the point, we could only +perceive that it was high and broken. + +As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it dangerous to +entangle ourselves with a lee-shore, and therefore did not attempt to +examine the bay, but hauled up, and steered to the northward in the +direction of the coast. At noon, we were abreast of the N. point of +the island, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, +and has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and a +half. The latitude, by observation, 21° 50' N., longitude 202° 15' E., +the extreme parts of the island in sight bearing S.S.E. 1/4 E., and +S.W. by S. 3/4 W. + +Between the N. point and a distant head-land which we saw to the S.W., +the land bends inward considerably, and appeared likely to afford a +good road. We therefore directed our course along the shore, at the +distance of about a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to +thirteen fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river, +running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in +thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the extreme points of the +bay bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., and N.E. by E. 3/4 E., and the mouth of +the river S.E. 1/2 E., one mile distant. In the afternoon I attended +the two captains on shore, where we found but few of the natives, and +those mostly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to +fight Tahyterree, but that their chief, Perreeoranee, who had stayed +behind, would certainly visit us as soon as he heard of our arrival. + +We were much disappointed to find the water had a brackish taste for +two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marshy ground through +which it empties itself into the sea. Beyond this it was perfectly +fresh, and formed a fine running stream, along the side of which I +walked till I came to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched +off to the right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic mountain. +The banks of this river, and indeed the whole we saw of the N.W. part +of Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of +the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturesque. + +As the watering at this place would have been attended with great +labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; but not being able +to land, on account of a reef of coral which stretched along the shore +to the distance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without +farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we +weighed, and stood to the northward till day-light on the 28th, when +we bore away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon; and +about sun-set, were off its eastern extremity, which shews itself in a +fine green flat point. + +It being too late to run for the road on the S.W. side of the island, +where we had been the last year, we passed the night in plying on and +off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five +fathoms water, and moored with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, +the bluff-head on the west side of the village, bearing N.E. by N. 3/4 +E., two miles distant; the extremes of the island, N.W. by W. 3/4 W., +and S.E. by E. 1/2 E.; the island Oneeheow W. by S. 1/2 W. In running +down to the road, from the S.E. point of the island, we saw the +appearance of shoal water in several places, at a considerable +distance from the land; and when we were about two miles to the +eastward of the anchoring-place, and two or three miles from the +shore, we got into four and a half fathoms water, although our +soundings had usually been seven and eight fathoms. + +We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several canoes came +along-side of us; but we could observe that they did not welcome us +with the same cordiality in their manner, and satisfaction in their +countenances, as when we were here before. As soon as they got on +board, one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder +amongst their women, of which several persons of both sexes had died. +He was himself afflicted with the venereal disease, and gave a very +full and minute account of the various symptoms with which it had been +attended. As there was not the slightest appearance of that disorder +amongst them on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied +that we were the authors of this irreparable mischief. + +Our principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost +expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, with the +pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner of the Resolution +accompanied me to trade for provisions, and we had a guard of five +marines. We found a considerable number of people collected upon the +beach, who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as +we got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former +experience having taught me how difficult it was to repress this +disposition, without having recourse to the authority of their chiefs, +I was very sorry to find that they were all at another part of the +island. Indeed we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was +with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our +usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading party, +and had no sooner done it, and posted guards to keep off the crowd, +than I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldiers' +muskets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his +hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired, +but returned in a moment, with a spear in one hand and a dagger in the +other; and his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying +his prowess with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by the latter's +having given the man a slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make +him keep without the line. + +I now perceived that our situation required great circumspection and +management; and accordingly gave the strictest orders that no one +should fire, nor have recourse to any other act of violence, without +positive commands. As soon as I had given these directions, I was +called to the assistance of the watering party, where I found the +natives equally inclined to mischief. They had demanded from our +people a large hatchet for every cask of water, and this not being +complied with, they would not suffer the sailors to roll them down to +the boats. + +I had no sooner joined them than one of the natives advanced up to me, +with great insolence, and made the same claim. I told him that, as a +friend, I was very willing to present him with a hatchet, but that I +should certainly carry off the water without paying any thing for +it; and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their +business, and called three marines from the traders to protect them. + +Though this shew of spirit succeeded so far as to make the natives +desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, they still continued to +behave in the most teazing and provoking manner. Whilst some of them, +under pretence of assisting the men in rolling down the casks, turned +them out of their course, and gave them a wrong direction; others were +stealing the hats from off the sailors' heads, pulling them backward +by their clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd, +all this time, shouting and laughing, with a strange mixture of +childishness and malice. They afterward found means to steal the +cooper's bucket, and took away his bag by force; but the objects +they were most eager to possess themselves of were the muskets of the +marines, who were every instant complaining of their attempts to force +them out of their hands. Though they continued, for the most part, to +pay great deference and respect to me, yet they did not suffer me to +escape without contributing my share to their stock of plunder. One +of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great management +diverted my attention, whilst another, wrenching the hanger, which I +held carelessly in my hand, from me, ran off with it like lightning. + +It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by force; guarding +therefore against its effects, in the best manner we were able, we had +nothing to do but to submit patiently to it. My apprehensions were, +however, a little alarmed, by the information I soon after received +from the serjeant of marines, who told me that, turning suddenly +round, he saw a man behind me holding a dagger in the position of +striking. In this he might possibly be mistaken; yet our situation was +certainly alarming and critical, and the smallest error on our side +might have been fatal to us. As our people were separated into three +small parties, one at the lake filling casks; another rolling them +down to the shore; and the third, at some distance, purchasing +provisions; it had once occurred to me, that it might be proper to +collect them altogether, and to execute and protect one duty at a +time. But on second thoughts, I judged it more advisable to let them +continue as they were. In case of a real attack, our whole force, +however advantageously disposed, could have made but a poor +resistance. On the other hand, I thought it of some consequence to +shew the natives that we were under no fears; and, what was still more +material, the crowd was by this means kept divided, and a considerable +part of them fully employed in bartering provisions. + +It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms was the +principal cause of their backwardness in attacking us; and, indeed, +the confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by opposing +only five marines to their whole force, must have raised in them a +very high idea of our superiority. It was our business to keep up this +opinion as much as possible; and in justice to the whole party, I must +observe, that no men could possibly behave better, for the purpose of +strengthening these impressions. Whatever could be taken in jest, they +bore with the utmost temper and patience; and whenever any serious +attempt was made to interrupt them, they opposed it with bold looks +and menaces. By this management we succeeded so far as to get all the +casks down to the water side without any material accident. + +While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving +the opportunity of plundering would soon, be over, became every moment +more daring and insolent. On this occasion I was indebted to the +serjeant of marines, for suggesting to me the advantage that would +arise from sending off his party first into the boats; by which means +the muskets of the soldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were +the objects the islanders had principally in view, would be removed +out of their reach; and in case of an attack, the marines themselves +might be employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were +on shore. + +We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr Anderson the +gunner, a seaman of the boat's crew, and myself, remained on shore. +As the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which we were obliged +to swim, I told them to make the best of their way to it, and that I +should follow them. With this order I was surprised to find them +both refuse to comply; and the consequence was a contest among us who +should be the last on shore. It seems that some hasty words I had just +before used to the sailor, which he thought reflected on his courage, +was the cause of this odd fancy in him; and the old gunner, finding a +point of honour started, thought he could not well avoid taking a part +in it. In this ridiculous situation we might have remained some time, +had not our dispute been soon settled by the stones that began to +fly about us, and by the cries of the people from the boats, to make +haste, as the natives were following us into the water with clubs +and spears. I reached the side of the pinnace first, and finding Mr +Anderson was at some distance behind, and not yet entirely out of +danger, I called out to the marines to fire one musket. In the hurry +of executing my orders, they fired two; and when I had got into the +boat I saw the natives running away, and one man, with a woman sitting +by him, left behind on the beach. The man made several attempts to +rise without being able; and it was with much regret, I perceived +him to be wounded in the groin. The natives soon after returned, and +surrounded the wounded man, brandishing their spears and daggers at +us, with an air of threatening and defiance; but before we reached +the ships, we saw some persons, whom we supposed to be the chiefs, now +arrived, driving them away from the shore. + +During our absence, Captain Clerke had been under the greatest anxiety +for our safety. And these apprehensions were considerably increased, +from his having entirely mistaken the drift of the conversation he had +held with some natives who had been on board. The frequent mention +of the name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial +descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude, that the +knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and +that these were what they alluded to; whereas all they had in view +was, to make known to him the wars that had arisen, in consequence of +the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the slaughter +of the poor goats themselves, during the struggle for the property of +them. Captain Clerke, applying this earnestness of conversation, and +these terrible representations, to our calamitous transactions at +Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, kept his telescope fixed +upon us, and the moment he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the +boats to be manned and armed, and to put off to our assistance. + +The next morning I was again ordered on shore, with the watering +party. The risk we had run the preceding day, determined Captain +Clerke to send a considerable force from both ships for our guard, +amounting in all to forty men under arms. This precaution, however, +was now unnecessary; for we found the beach left entirely to +ourselves, and the ground between the landing-place and the lake +_tabooed_ with small white flags. We concluded, from this appearance, +that some of the chiefs had certainly visited this quarter; and that +not being able to stay, they had kindly and considerately taken this +step, for our greater security and convenience. We saw several men +armed with long spears and daggers, on the other side of the river, +on our right; but they did not offer to give us the least molestation. +Their women came over, and sat down on the banks close by us, and at +noon we prevailed on some of the men to bring hogs and roots for our +people, and to dress them for us. As soon as we had left the beach, +they came down to the sea-side, and one of them threw a stone at us; +but his conduct seeming to be highly disapproved of by all the rest, +we did not think it proper to shew any resentment. + +The next day we completed our watering, without meeting with any +material difficulty. On our return to the ships, we found that several +chiefs had been on board, and had made excuses for the behaviour of +their countrymen, attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels +which subsisted at that time amongst the principal people of +the island, and which had occasioned a general want of order and +subordination amongst them. The government of Atooi was in dispute +between Toneoneo, who had the supreme power when we were here last +year, and a boy named Teavee. They are both, by different fathers, +the grandsons of Perreeorannee, king of Woahoo, who had given the +government of Atooi to the former, and that of Oneeheow to the latter. +The quarrel had arisen about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the +last year; the right of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on +the pretence of that island's being a dependency of his. The friends +of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both parties prepared +to maintain their pretensions by force; and a few days before our +arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been worsted. +The consequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a +much deeper manner than by the mere loss of the objects in dispute; +for the mother of Teavee having married a second husband, who was +a chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he +thought that the present opportunity was not to be neglected, of +driving Toneoneo entirely out of the island, and of advancing his +son-in-law to the government. I have already had occasion to mention, +that the goats, which had increased to the number of six, and would +probably in a few years have stocked all these islands, were destroyed +in the contest. + +On the 4th, the mother and sister of the young prince and his +father-in-law, with many other chiefs of that party, came on board the +Resolution, and made several curious and valuable presents to Captain +Clerke. Amongst the former, were some fish-hooks, which they assured +us were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, who +had been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon the island of Woahoo; +and a fly-flap, presented to him by the prince's sister, the handle +of which was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her +father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as +we were told, in performing some religious ceremonies, in consequence +of the victory he had obtained, which were to last twenty days. + +This and the two following days were employed on shore, in completing +the Discovery's water; and the carpenters were busy on board, in +caulking the ships, and in making other preparations for our next +cruise. The natives desisted from giving us any further disturbance, +and we procured from them a plentiful supply of pork and vegetables. + +At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the +Discovery, to be fashioned into the shape of a _pahooah_. It was +carefully examined both by the officers and men, and appeared to be +the bolt of some large ship-timbers. They were not able to discover to +what nation it belonged; but from the pale colour[1] of the iron, and +its not corresponding in shape to our bolts, they concluded that it +certainly was not English. This led them to make a strict enquiry of +the native, when and where he got it; and, if they comprehended him +right, it had been taken out of a piece of timber, larger than the +cable-bit, to which he pointed. This piece of wood, they farther +understood from, him, to have been driven upon their island, since we +were here in January 1778. + +[Footnote 1: It was evident, that the iron we found in possession of +the natives at Nootka Sound, and which was mostly made into knives, +was of a much paler sort than ours.] + +On the 7th, we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. When +he heard the dowager-princess was in the ship, it was with great +difficulty we could prevail on him to come on board, not from any +apprehension that he appeared to entertain of his safety, but from an +unwillingness to see her. Their meeting was with sulky and lowering +looks on both sides. He staid but a short time, and seemed much +dejected; but we remarked, with some surprise, that the women, both at +his coming and going way, prostrated themselves before him; and that +he was treated by all the natives on board with the respect +usually paid to those of his rank. Indeed, it must appear somewhat +extraordinary, that a person who was at this time in a state of actual +hostility with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another +battle, should trust himself almost alone within the power of his +enemies. It is therefore to be observed, that the civil dissentions, +which are very frequent throughout all the South-Sea Islands, seem to +be carried on without much acrimony or bloodshed; and that the deposed +governor still continues to enjoy the rank of an _Eree_, and is left +to make use of such means as may arise for the regaining his lost +consequence. But I shall have occasion to speak more particularly on +this subject in the next section; in which the best account will be +given, which we were able to collect, of the political state of those +countries. + +On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and sailed toward +Oneeheow; and at three in the afternoon anchored in twenty fathoms +water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. We moored with the +other anchor in twenty-six fathoms water. The high bluff, on the south +end of the island, bore E.S.E.; the north point of the road, N. 1/2 E; +and a bluff head to the south of it, N.E. by N. During the night, we +had a strong gale from the eastward; and, in the morning of the 9th, +found the ship had driven a whole cable's length, and brought both +anchors almost ahead. We shortened in the best bower-cable; but the +wind blowing too fresh to unmoor, we were obliged to remain this and +the two following days with the anchors still ahead. + +On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was sent to the +north-west side of the island, to look for a more convenient place for +anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, close round the +west point of the road where we now lay, which is also the westernmost +point of the island, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen +fathoms water, a clear sandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on +which the surf beats, but not so as to hinder landing. The direction +of the points of the bay were N. by E., and S. by W.; and, in that +line, the soundings seven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the north +side of the bay was a small village; and a quarter of a mile to the +eastward were four small wells of good water; the road to them level, +and fit for rolling casks. Mr Bligh went afterward so far to the +north as to satisfy himself, that Oreehoua was a separate island from +Oneeheow, and that there was a passage between them, which before we +only conjectured to exist. + +In the afternoon we hoisted in all the boats, and made ready for going +to sea in the morning. + +END OF VOLUME SIXTEENTH. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + +***** This file should be named 16471-8.txt or 16471-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/4/7/16471/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** + diff --git a/16471-8.zip b/16471-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b5c2dc --- /dev/null +++ b/16471-8.zip diff --git a/16471-h.zip b/16471-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..436c20b --- /dev/null +++ b/16471-h.zip diff --git a/16471-h/16471-h.htm b/16471-h/16471-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0cef018 --- /dev/null +++ b/16471-h/16471-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,24564 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> + + <title>Voyages and Travels, vol. 16</title> + + <style type="text/css"> + <!-- + body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + p {text-align: justify;} + blockquote {text-align: center;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center;} + pre {font-size: 0.7em;} + + hr {text-align: center; width: 50%;} + html>body hr {margin-right: 25%; margin-left: 25%; width: 50%;} + hr.full {width: 100%;} + html>body hr.full {margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 0%; width: 100%;} + hr.short {text-align: center; width: 20%;} + html>body hr.short {margin-right: 40%; margin-left: 40%; width: 20%;} + + .note + {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + + span.pagenum + {position: absolute; left: 1%; right: 91%; font-size: 8pt;} + + .poem + {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem p.i2 {margin-left: 1em;} + .poem p.i4 {margin-left: 2em;} + .poem p.i6 {margin-left: 3em;} + .poem p.i8 {margin-left: 4em;} + .poem p.i10 {margin-left: 5em;} + + .figure, .figcenter, .figright, .figleft + {padding: 1em; margin: 0; text-align: center; font-size: 0.8em;} + .figure img, .figcenter img, .figright img, .figleft img + {border: none;} + .figure p, .figcenter p, .figright p, .figleft p + {margin: 0; text-indent: 1em;} + .figcenter {margin: auto;} + .figright {float: right;} + .figleft {float: left;} + + .footnote {text-align: justify; font-size: 0.9em; margin-right: 10%; margin-left: 10%;} + + .side { float:right; + font-size: 75%; + width: 25%; + padding-left:10px; + border-left: dashed thin; + margin-left: 10px; + text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; + font-weight: bold; + font-style: italic;} + + div.trans-note {border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; + margin: 2em 15%; padding: 1em; text-align: center;} + --> + </style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages +and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 16 + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: August 7, 2005 [EBook #16471] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>GENERAL</h2> + +<h2>HISTORY AND COLLECTION</h2> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,</h1> + +<h2>ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:</h2> + +<h2>FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS</h2> +<h2>OF NAVIGATION, DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE,</h2> +<h2>BY SEA AND LAND,</h2> +<h2>FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h2> + +<hr /> + +<h2>BY</h2> + +<h2>ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.</h2> + +<hr /> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.</h2> + +<h2>VOL. XVI.</h2> + +<h3>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:</h3> + +<h3>AND T. CADELL, LONDON.</h3> + +<h3>MDCCCXXIV.</h3> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a>[pg vi]</span> + +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOL. XVI.</h2> + + +<p>CHAP. III. Transactions at Otaheite, and the Society +Islands; and prosecution of the Voyage to +the Coast of North America, <a href="#page1">1</a></p> + +<blockquote><p> +SECT.</p> + +<p>I. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The +Island Toobouai discovered. Its Situation, +Extent, and Appearance. Intercourse +with its Inhabitants. Their Persons, +Dresses, and Canoes described. Arrival +at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite. +Omai's Reception and imprudent Conduct. +Account of Spanish Ships twice +visiting the Island. Interview with the +Chief of this District. The Olla, or God, +of Bolabola. A mad Prophet. Arrival +in Matavai Bay, <a href="#page1">1</a></p> + +<p>II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Island, +Imprudent Conduct of Omai. Employments +on Shore. European Animals landed. +Particulars about a Native who had +visited Lima. About Oedidee. A Revolt +in Eimeo. War with that Island determined +upon, in a Council of Chiefs. A +human Sacrifice on that Account. A particular +Relation of the Ceremonies at the +great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered. +Other barbarous Customs of this +People, <a href="#page16">16</a></p> + +<p>III. Conference with Towha. Heevas described. +Omai and Oedidee give Dinners. Fireworks +exhibited. A remarkable Present +of Cloth. Manner of preserving the Body +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a>[pg vii]</span> +of a dead Chief. Another human Sacrifice. +Riding on Horseback. Otoo's Attention +to supply Provisions, and prevent +Thefts. Animals given to him. Etary, +and the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences. +A mock Fight of two War Canoes. +Naval Strength of these Islands. +Manner of conducting a War, <a href="#page35">35</a></p> + +<p>IV. The Day of Sailing fixed. Peace made with +Eimeo. Debates about it, and Otoo's +Conduct blamed. A Solemnity at the +Morai on the Occasion, described by Mr +King. Observations upon it. Instance +of Otoo's Art. Omai's War-Canoe, and +Remarks upon his Behaviour. Otoo's Present, +and Message to the King of Great +Britain. Reflections on our Manner of +Traffic, and on the good Treatment we +met with at Otaheite. Account of the +Expedition of the Spaniards. Their Fictions +to depreciate the English. Wishes +expressed that no Settlement may be +made. Omai's Jealousy of another Traveller, <a href="#page48">48</a></p> + +<p>V. Arrival at Eimeo. Two Harbours there, +and an Account of them. Visit from Maheine, +Chief of the Island. His Person +described. A Goat stolen, and sent back +with the Thief. Another Goat stolen, and +secreted. Measures taken on the Occasion. +Expedition cross the Island. Houses +and Canoes burnt. The Goat delivered +up, and Peace restored. Some Account +of the Island, &c. <a href="#page62">62</a></p> + +<p>VI. Arrival at Huaheine. Council of the Chiefs. +Omai's Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs. +His Establishment in this Island agreed to. +A House built, and Garden planted for +him. Singularity of his Situation. Measures +taken to insure his Safety. Damage +done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships. +A Thief detected and punished. Fireworks +exhibited. Animals left with Omai. +His Family. Weapons. Inscription on +his House. His Behaviour on the Ships +leaving the Island. Summary View of his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a>[pg viii]</span> +Conduct and Character. Account of the +two New Zealand Youths, <a href="#page71">71</a></p> + +<p>VII. Arrival at Ulietea. Astronomical Observations. +A Marine deserts, and is delivered +up. Intelligence from Omai. Instructions +to Captain Clerke. Another Desertion of +a Midshipman and a Seaman. Three of +the chief Persons of the Island confined +on that Account. A Design to seize Captains +Cook and Clerke discovered. The +two Deserters brought back, and the Prisoners +released. The Ships sail. Refreshments +received at Ulietea. Present and +former State of that Island. Account of +its dethroned King, and of the late Regent +of Huaheine, <a href="#page87">87</a></p> + +<p>VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. Interview with Opoony. +Reasons for purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's +Anchor. Departure from the +Society Islands. Particulars about Bolabola. +History of the Conquest of Otaha +and Ulietea. High Reputation of the Bolabola +Men. Animals left there and at Ulietea. +Plentiful Supply of Provisions, and +Manner of salting Pork on Board. Various +Reflections relative to Otaheite and +the Society Islands. Astronomical and +Nautical Observations made there, <a href="#page99">99</a></p> + +<p>IX. Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect. The +prevailing Winds. Beauty of the Country. +Cultivation. Natural Curiosities. +The Persons of the Natives. Diseases. +General Character. Love of Pleasure. +Language. Surgery and Physic. Articles +of Food. Effects of drinking Ava. +Times and Manner of Eating. Connexions +with the Females. Circumcision. +System of Religion. Notions about the +Soul and a future Life. Various Superstitions. +Traditions about the Creation. +An historical Legend. Honours paid to +the King. Distinction of Ranks. Punishment +of Crimes. Peculiarities of the +neighbouring Islands. Names of their +Gods. Names of Islands they visit. Extent +of their Navigation, <a href="#page110">110</a></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pageix" id="pageix"></a>[pg ix]</span>X. Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the +Society Islands. Christmas Island discovered, +and Station of the Ships there. +Boats sent ashore. Great Success in +catching Turtle. An Eclipse of the Sun +observed. Distress of two Seamen who +had lost their Way. Inscription left in a +Bottle. Account of the Island. Its Soil. +Trees and Plants. Birds. Its Size. Form. +Situation. Anchoring Ground, <a href="#page139">139</a></p> + +<p>XI. Some Islands discovered. Account of the +Natives of Atooi, who came off to the +Ships, and their Behaviour on going on +Board. One of them killed. Precautions +used to prevent Intercourse with the Females. +A Watering-place found. Reception +upon landing. Excursion into the +Country. A Morai visited and described. +Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human +Sacrifices, there buried. Another Island, +called Oneeheow, visited. Ceremonies +performed by the Natives, who go off to +the Ships. Reasons for believing that +they are Cannibals. A Party sent ashore, +who remain two Nights. Account of what +passed on landing. The Ships leave the +Islands, and proceed to the North, <a href="#page148">148</a></p> + +<p>XII. The Situation of the Islands now discovered. +Their Names. Called the Sandwich Islands. +Atooi described. The Soil. Climate. Vegetable +Productions. Birds. Fish. Domestic +Animals. Persons of the Inhabitants. +Their Disposition. Dress. Ornaments. +Habitations. Food. Cookery. +Amusements. Manufactures. Working-tools. +Knowledge of Iron accounted for. +Canoes. Agriculture. Account of one of +their Chiefs. Weapons. Customs agreeing +with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite. +Their Language the same. Extent +of this Nation throughout the Pacific +Ocean. Reflections on the useful Situation +of the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page172">172</a></p> + +<p>XIII. Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, +on the Longitude, Variation of the Compass +and Tides. Prosecution of the Voyage. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagex" id="pagex"></a>[pg x]</span> +Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, +as far as the Latitude 44° North. +Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern Hemisphere. +Small Sea Animals described. +Arrival on the Coast of America. Appearance +of the Country. Unfavourable Winds +and boisterous Weather. Remarks on +Martin de Aguilar's River, and Juan de +Fuca's pretended Strait. An Inlet discovered, +where the Ship's anchor. Behaviour +of the Natives, <a href="#page195">195</a> +</p></blockquote> + +<p>CHAP. IV. Transactions, amongst the Natives of North America; +Discoveries along that Coast and the +Eastern Extremity of Asia, Northward to Icy +Cape; and return Southward to the Sandwich +Islands, <a href="#page207">207</a></p> + +<blockquote><p> +SECT.</p> + +<p>I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a +Harbour. Intercourse with the Natives. +Articles brought to barter. Thefts committed. +The Observatories erected, and +Carpenters set to work. Jealousy of the +Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other +Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships. +Stormy and rainy Weather. Progress +round the Sound. Behaviour of the Natives +at their Villages. Their Manner of +drying Fish, &c. Remarkable Visit from +Strangers, and introductory Ceremonies. +A second Visit to one of the Villages. +Leave to cut Grass, purchased. The Ships +sail. Presents given and received at parting, <a href="#page207">207</a></p> + +<p>II. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for +Sailing into it. Account of the adjacent +Country. Weather. Climate. Trees. +Other Vegetable Productions. Quadrupeds, +whose Skins were brought for Sale. +Sea Animals. Description of a Sea-Otter. +Birds. Water Fowl. Fish. Shell-fish, &c. +Reptiles. Insects. Stones, &c. Persons +of the Inhabitants. Their Colour. Common +Dress and Ornaments. Occasional +Dresses, and monstrous Decorations of +wooden Masks. Their general Dispositions. +Songs. Musical Instruments. Their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexi" id="pagexi"></a>[pg xi]</span> +Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals, <a href="#page221">221</a></p> + +<p>III. Manner of Building the Houses in Nootka +Sound. Inside of them described. Furniture +and Utensils. Wooden Images. Employments +of the Men. Of the Women. +Food, Animal and Vegetable. Manner of +preparing it. Weapons. Manufactures +and Mechanic Arts. Carving and Painting. +Canoes. Implements for Fishing and +Hunting. Iron Tools. Manner of procuring +that Metal. Remarks on their Language, +and a Specimen of it. Astronomical +and Nautical Observations made in +Nootka Sound, <a href="#page239">239</a></p> + +<p>IV. A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound. +Resolution springs a Leak. Pretended +Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed unexamined. +Progress along the Coast of America. +Behring's Bay. Kaye's Island. Account +of it. The Ships come to an Anchor. +Visited by the Natives. Their Behaviour. +Fondness for Beads and Iron. +Attempt to plunder the Discovery. Resolution's +Leak stopped; Progress up the +Sound. Messrs Gore and Roberts sent to +examine its Extent. Reasons against a +Passage to the North through it. The +Ships proceed down it to the open Sea <a href="#page260">260</a></p> + +<p>V. The Inlet called Prince William's Sound. +Its Extent. Persons of the Inhabitants described. +Their Dress. Incision of the Under-lip. +Various other Ornaments. Their +Boats. Weapons. Fishing and hunting +Instruments. Utensils. Tools. Uses Iron +is applied to. Food. Language, and a +Specimen of it. Animals. Birds. Fish. +Iron and Beads, whence received, <a href="#page279">279</a></p> + +<p>VI. Progress along the Coast. Cape Elizabeth. +Cape St Hermogenes. Accounts of Beering's +Voyage very defective. Point Banks. +Cape Douglas. Cape Bede. Mount St +Augustin. Hopes of finding a Passage up +an Inlet. The Ships proceed up it. Indubitable +Marks of its being a River. Named +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexii" id="pagexii"></a>[pg xii]</span> +Cook's River. The Ships return down it. +Various Visits from the Natives. Lieutenant +King lands, and takes Possession of +the Country. His Report. The Resolution +runs aground on a Shoal. Reflections +on the Discovery of Cook's River. The +considerable Tides in it accounted for, <a href="#page291">291</a></p> + +<p>VII. Discoveries after leaving Cook's River. +Island of St Hermogenes. Cape Whitsunday. +Cape Greville. Cape Barnabas. Two-headed +Point. Trinity Island. Beering's +Foggy Island. A beautiful Bird described. +Kodiak and the Schumagin Islands. A +Russian Letter brought on Board by a +Native. Conjectures about it. Rock Point. +Halibut Island. A Volcano Mountain. +Providential Escape. Arrival of the Ships +at Oonalaschka. Intercourse with the Natives +there. Another Russian Letter. Samganoodha +Harbour described, <a href="#page306">306</a></p> + +<p>VIII. Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka. +The Islands Oonella and Acootan. +Ooneemak. Shallowness of the Water +along the Coast. Bristol Bay. Round +Island. Calm Point. Cape Newenham. +Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report. +Bristol Bay, and its Extent. The +Ships obliged to return on account of +Shoals. Natives come off to the Ships. +Death of Mr Anderson; his Character; +and Island named after him. Point +Rodney. Sledge Island, and Remarks +on landing there. King's Island. Cape +Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of +America. Course Westward. Anchor in +a Bay on the Coast of Asia, <a href="#page323">323</a></p> + +<p>IX. Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on +seeing the Ships. Interview with some of +them. Their Weapons. Persons. Ornaments +Clothing. Winter and Summer +Habitations. The Ships cross the Strait, to +the Coast of America. Progress Northward. +Cape Mulgrave. Appearance of +Fields of Ice. Situation of Icy Cape, the +Sea blocked up with Ice. Sea-horses killed, +and used as Provisions. These Animals +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexiii" id="pagexiii"></a>[pg xiii]</span> +described. Dimensions of one of +them. Cape Lisburne. Fruitless Attempt +to get through the Ice at a Distance from +the Coast. Observations on the Formation +of this Ice. Arrival on the Coast of +Asia. Cape North. The Prosecution of +the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year, <a href="#page338">338</a></p> + +<p>X. Return from Cape North, along the Coast of +Asia. Views of the Country. Burney's +Island. Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern +Limit of Beering's Voyage. Pass the +East Cape of Asia. Description and Situation +of it. Observations on Muller. +The Tschutski. Bay of Saint Laurence. +Two other Bays, and Habitations of the +Natives. Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi. +Beering's Position of this Coast accurate. +Island of Saint Laurence. Pass to the +American Coast. Cape Derby. Bald +Head. Cape Denbigh, on a Peninsula. +Besborough Island. Wood and Water +procured. Visits from the Natives. Their +Persons and Habitations. Produce of the +Country. Marks that the Peninsula had +formerly been surrounded by the Sea. +Lieutenant King's Report. Norton Sound. +Lunar Observations there. Stæhlin's Map +proved to be erroneous. Plan of future +Operations, <a href="#page353">353</a></p> + +<p>XI. Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound. +Stuart's Island. Cape Stephens. Point +Shallow-Water. Shoals on the American +Coast. Clerke's Island. Gore's Island. +Pinnacle Island. Arrival at Oonalashka. +Intercourse with the Natives and Russian +Traders. Charts of the Russian Discoveries, +communicated by Mr Ismyloff. +Their Errors pointed out. Situation of the +Islands visited by the Russians. Account +of their Settlement at Oonalashka. Of the +Natives of the Island. Their Persons. +Dress. Ornaments. Food. Houses and +domestic Utensils. Manufactures. Manner +of producing Fire. Canoes. Fishing +and Hunting Implements. Fishes, and +Sea Animals. Sea and Water Fowls, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexiv" id="pagexiv"></a>[pg xiv]</span> +Land Birds. Land Animals and Vegetables. +Manner of burying the Dead. Resemblance +of the Natives on this Side of +America to the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. +Tides. Observations for determining +the Longitude of Oonalashka. <a href="#page369">369</a></p> + +<p>XII. Departure from Oonalashka, and future +Views. The Island Amoghta. Situation +of a remarkable Rock. Strait between +Oonalashka and Oonella repassed. Progress +to the South. Melancholy Accident +on board the Discovery. Mowee, one of the +Sandwich Islands, discovered. Intercourse +with the Natives. Visit from Terreeoboo. +Another Island, called Owhyhee, discovered. +The Ships ply to Windward to get +round it. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. +The Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane +Beer. Cordage deficient in Strength. +Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee. +The Resolution gets to Windward of +the Island. Her Progress down the South-East +Coast. Views of the Country, and +Visits from the Natives. The Discovery +joins. Slow Progress Westward. Karakakooa +Bay examined by Mr Bligh. Vast +Concourse of the Natives. The Ships anchor +in the Bay, <a href="#page402">402</a> +</p></blockquote> + +<p>CHAP. V. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on +Returning to the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page421">421</a></p> + +<blockquote><p> +SECT.</p> + +<p>I. Description of Karakakooa Bay. Vast Concourse +of the Natives. Power of the +Chiefs over the Inferior People. Visit +from Koah, a Priest and Warrior. The +Morai at Kakooa described. Ceremonies +at the Landing of Captain Cook. Observatories +erected. Powerful Operation of +the Taboo. Method of Salting Pork in +Tropical Climates. Society of Priests discovered. +Their Hospitality and Munificence. +Reception of Captain Cook. Artifice +of Koah. Arrival of Terreeoboo, +King of the Island. Returned by Captain +Cook, <a href="#page421">421</a></p> + +<p>II. Farther Account of Transactions with the +Natives. Their Hospitality. Propensity +<span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexv" id="pagexv"></a>[pg xv]</span> +to Theft. Description of a Boxing Match. +Death of one of our Seamen. Behaviour +of the Priests at his Funeral. The Wood +Work and Images on the Morai purchased. +The Natives inquisitive about our Departure. +Their Opinion about the Design of +our Voyage. Magnificent Presents of +Terreeoboo to Captain Cook. The Ships +leave the Island. The Resolution damaged +in a Gale, and obliged to return, <a href="#page434">434</a></p> + +<p>III. Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our +Return to Karakakooa Bay. Theft on +Board the Discovery, and its Consequences. +The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew +obliged to quit her. Captain Cook's Observations +on the Occasion. Attempt at +the Observatory. The Cutter of the Discovery +stolen. Measures taken by Captain +Cook for its Recovery. Goes on +Shore to invite the King on Board. The +King being stopped by his Wife and the +Chiefs, a Contest arises. News arrives of +one of the Chiefs being killed by one of +our People. Ferment on this Occasion. +One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, +and is shot by him. General Attack by +the Natives. Death of Captain Cook. +Account of the Captain's Services, and a +Sketch of his Character, <a href="#page446">446</a></p> + +<p>IV. Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the +Death of Captain Cook. Gallant Behaviour +of the Lieutenant of Marines. Dangerous +Situation of the Party at the Morai. +Bravery of one of the Natives. Consultation +respecting future Measures. Demand +of the Body of Captain Cook. Evasive +and insidious Conduct of Koah and +the Chiefs. Insolent Behaviour of the +Natives. Promotion of Officers. Arrival +of two Priests with Part of the Body. Extraordinary +Behaviour of two Boys. Burning +of the Village of Kakooa. Unfortunate +Destruction of the Dwellings of the +Priests. Recovery of the Bones of Captain +Cook. Departure from Karakakooa +Bay, <a href="#page460">460</a></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pagexvi" id="pagexvi"></a>[pg xvi]</span>V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a +Harbour on the South-East Side of Mowee. +Driven to Leeward by the Easterly +Winds and Current. Pass the Island of +Tahoorowha. Description of the South-West +Side of Mowee. Run along the +Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo. +Description of the North-East Coast of +Woahoo. Unsuccessful Attempt to Water. +Passage to Atooi. Anchor in Wymoa +Bay. Dangerous Situation of the +Watering Party on Shore. Civil Dissensions +in the Islands. Visit from the contending +Chiefs. Anchor off Oneeheow. +Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page492">492</a> +</p></blockquote> + +<br /> +<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page1" id="page1"></a>[pg 1]</span> + + + + +<h2>A</h2> + +<h2>GENERAL HISTORY,</h2> + +<h2>AND</h2> + +<h2>COLLECTION</h2> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.</h1> + +<hr /> + +<h2>PART III. BOOK III.</h2> +<h2>(CONTINUED.)</h2> + +<hr /> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h2>TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS; +AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO THE +COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.</h2> + + +<h3>SECTION I.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>An Eclipse of the Moon observed.—The Island Toobouai discovered.—Its +Situation, Extent, and Appearance.—Intercourse +with its Inhabitants.—Their Persons, Dresses, and +Canoes described.—Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite.—Omai's +Reception and imprudent Conduct.—Account of +Spanish Ships twice visiting the Island.—Interview with the +Chief of this District.—The Olla, or God, of Bolabola.—A +mad Prophet.—Arrival in Matavai Bay.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Having, as before related,<a id="footnotetag1" name="footnotetag1"></a><a href="#footnote1"><sup>1</sup></a> taken our final leave of +the Friendly Islands, I now resume my narrative of +the voyage. In the evening of the 17th of July, at eight +o'clock, the body of Eaoo bore N.E. by N., distant three or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page2" id="page2"></a>[pg 2]</span> +four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew a fresh +gale. With it I stood to the S., till half an hour past six +o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall, from the +same direction, took our ship aback; and, before the sails +could be trimmed on the other tack, the main-sail and the +top-gallant sails were much torn.</p> + +<p>The wind kept between the S.W. and S.E., on the 19th +and 20th, afterward, it veered to the E., N.E., and N. The +night between the 20th and 21st, an eclipse of the moon +was observed as follows, being then in the latitude of +22° 57-1/2' S.:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Apparent time, A.M.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center"> H.M.S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Beginning, by</td><td align="left">Mr King, at</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">50}</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Mr Bligh, at</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">33</td><td align="right">25}</td><td align="left">Mean long. 186° 57-1/2'.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Myself, at</td><td align="right">0</td><td align="right">33</td><td align="right">35}</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">End, by</td><td align="left">Mr King at</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">44</td><td align="right">56}</td><td align="left">Mean long. 186° 28-1/2'.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Mr Bligh at</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">44</td><td align="right">6}</td><td align="left">Time keep. 186° 58-1/2'.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Myself, at</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">44</td><td align="right">56}</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The latitude and longitude are those of the ship, at +8<sup>h</sup> 56<sup>m</sup> a.m., being the time when the sun's altitude was taken +for finding the apparent time. At the beginning of +the eclipse, the moon was in the zenith, so that it was +found most convenient to make use of the sextants, and to +make the observations by the reflected image, which was +brought down to a convenient altitude. The same was done +at the end, except by Mr King, who observed with a night +telescope. Although the greatest difference between our +several observations is no more than fifty seconds, it, nevertheless, +appeared to me that two observers might differ +more than double that time, in both the beginning and end. +And, though the times are noted to seconds, no such accuracy +was pretended to. The odd seconds set down above, +arose by reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent +time.</p> + +<p>I continued to stretch to the E.S.E., with the wind at +N.E. and N., without meeting with any thing worthy of +note, till seven o'clock in the evening of the 29th, when we +had a sudden and very heavy squall of wind from the N. +At this time we were under single reefed topsails, courses, +and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page3" id="page3"></a>[pg 3]</span> +and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After +this squall, we observed several lights moving about on +board the Discovery, by which we concluded, that something +had given way; and, the next morning, we saw that +her main-top-mast had been lost. Both wind and weather +continued very unsettled till noon, this day, when the latter +cleared up, and the former settled in the N.W. quarter. +At this time, we were in the latitude of 28° 6' S., and our +longitude was 198° 23' E. Here we saw some pintado +birds, being the first since we left the land.</p> + +<p>On the 31st, at noon, Captain Clerke made a signal to +speak with me. By the return of the boat which I sent on +board his ship, he informed me, that the head of the main-mast +had been just discovered to be sprung, in such a +manner as to render the rigging of another top-mast very +dangerous; and that, therefore, he must rig something +lighter in its place. He also informed me, that he had lost +his main-top-gallant-yard, and that he neither had another, +nor a spar to make one, on board. The Resolution's sprit-sail +top-sail yard which I sent him, supplied this want. The +next day, he got up a jury top-mast, on which he set a +mizen-top-sail, and this enabled him to keep way with the +Resolution.</p> + +<p>The wind was fixed in the western board, that is, from +the N., round by the W. to S., and I steered E.N.E. and +N.E., without meeting with anything remarkable, till eleven +o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, when land +was seen, bearing N.N.E., nine or ten leagues distant. At +first, it appeared in detached hills, like so many separate +islands; but, as we drew nearer, we found that they were +all connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I +steered directly for it, with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and +at half-past six o'clock in the afternoon, it extended from +N. by E., to N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant three or four leagues.</p> + +<p>The night was spent standing off and on; and at day-break +the next morning, I steered for the N.W., or lee-side +of the island; and as we stood round its S. or S.W. part, +we saw it every where guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending, +in some places, a full mile from the land, and a +high surf breaking upon it. Some thought that they saw +land to the southward of this island; but, as that was to the +windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we +saw people on different parts of the coast, walking, or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page4" id="page4"></a>[pg 4]</span> +running along the shore, and in a little time after we had +reached the lee-side of the island, we saw them launch two +canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled toward +us.</p> + +<p>I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time +to come up with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance +of about half a mile from the reef, we found from +forty to thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine +sand. Nearer in, the bottom was strewed with coral rocks. +The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a +pistol-shot from the ship, there stopped. Omai was employed, +as he usually had been on such occasions, to use all +his eloquence to prevail upon the men in them to come +nearer; but no entreaties could induce them to trust themselves +within our reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the +shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go thither; +and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach +held up something white, which we considered also as an +invitation to land. We could very well have done this, as +there was good anchorage without the reef, and a break or +opening in it, from whence the canoes had come out, which +had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water for +the ships, there was more than sufficient for the boats. But +I did not think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair +wind, for the sake of examining an island that appeared to +be of little consequence. We stood in no need of refreshments, +if I had been sure of meeting with them there; and +having already been so unexpectedly delayed in my progress +to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding +every possibility of farther retardment. For this reason, +after making several unsuccessful attempts to induce these +people to come alongside, I made sail to the N., and left +them, but not without getting from them, during their vicinity +to our ship, the name of their island, which they +called Toobouai.</p> + +<p>It is situated in the latitude of 23° 25' S., and in 210 37' +E. longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive +of the reef, is not above five or six miles. On the +N.W. side, the reef appears in detached pieces, between +which the sea seems to break upon the shore. Small as the +island is, there are hills in it of a considerable elevation. At +the foot of the hills, is a narrow border of flat land, running +quite round it, edged with a white sand beach. The hills +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page5" id="page5"></a>[pg 5]</span> +are covered with grass, or some other herbage, except a +few steep rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interspersed +to their summits. But the plantations are more +numerous in some of the vallies, and the flat border is +quite covered with high, strong trees, whose different kinds +we could not discern, except some cocoa-palms, and a few +of the <i>etoa</i>. According to the information of the men in +the canoes, their island is stocked with hogs and fowls, and +produces the several fruits and roots that are found at the +other islands in this part of the Pacific Ocean.</p> + +<p>We had an opportunity, from the conversation we had +with those who came off to us, of satisfying ourselves, that +the inhabitants of Toobouai speak the Otaheite language, +a circumstance that indubitably proves them to be of the +same nation. Those of them whom we saw in the canoes +were a stout copper-coloured people, with straight black +hair, which some of them wore tied in a bunch on the +crown of the head, and others flowing about the shoulders. +Their faces were somewhat round and full, but the +features, upon the whole, rather flat, and their countenances +seemed to express some degree of natural ferocity. They +had no covering but a piece of narrow stuff wrapped about +the waist, and made to pass between the thighs, to cover +the adjoining parts; but some of those whom we saw upon +the beach, where about a hundred persons had assembled, +were entirely clothed with a kind of white garment. We +could observe, that some of our visitors in the canoes wore +pearl shells hang about the neck as an ornament. One of +them kept blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed +near two feet long was fixed; at first, with a continued tone +of the same kind, but he afterward converted it into a kind +of musical instrument, perpetually repeating two or three +notes, with the same strength. What the blowing the conch +portended, I cannot say, but I never found it the messenger +of peace.</p> + +<p>Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and +two feet above the surface of the water, as they floated. +The fore part projected a little, and had a notch cut across, +as if intended to represent the mouth of some animal. The +after part rose, with a gentle curve, to the height of two or +three feet, turning gradually smaller, and, as well as the +upper part of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the +sides, which were perpendicular, were curiously incrustated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page6" id="page6"></a>[pg 6]</span> +with flat white shells, disposed nearly in concentric semicircles, +with the curve upward. One of the canoes carried +seven, and the other eight men, and they were managed +with small paddles, whose blades were nearly round. Each +of them had a pretty long outrigger; and they sometimes +paddled, with the two opposite sides together so close, that +they seemed to be one boat with two outriggers, the rowers +turning their faces occasionally to the stern, and pulling +that way, without paddling the canoes round. When they +saw us determined to leave them, they stood up in their +canoes, and repeated something very loudly in concert, but +we could not tell whether this was meant as a mark of their +friendship or enmity. It is certain, however, that they had +no weapons with them, nor could we perceive with our +glasses that those on shore had any.<a id="footnotetag2" name="footnotetag2"></a><a href="#footnote2"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>After leaving this island, from the discovery of which +future navigators may possibly derive some advantage, I +steered to the N. with a fresh gale at E. by S., and, at day-break +in the morning of the 12th, we saw the island of +Maitea. Soon after, Otaheite made its appearance; and at +noon, it extended from S.W. by W. to W.N.W.; the point +of Oheitepeha bay bearing W., about four leagues distant. +I steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order +to draw what refreshments I could from the S.E. part of +the island, before I went down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood +of which station I expected my principal supply. +We had a fresh gale easterly, till two o'clock in the afternoon, +when, being about a league from the bay, the wind +suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light +airs from every direction, and calms by turns. This lasted +about two hours. Then we had sudden squalls, with rain, +from the E. These carried us before the bay, where we got +a breeze from the land, and attempted in vain to work in +to gain the anchoring-place. So that at last about nine +o'clock, we were obliged to stand out, and to spend the +night at sea.</p> + +<p>When we first drew near the island, several canoes came +off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men; but, +as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page7" id="page7"></a>[pg 7]</span> +notice of them, nor they of him. They did not even seem to +perceive that he was one of their countrymen, although +they conversed with him for some time. At length, a chief +whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, +who chanced to be now at this corner of the +island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew +Omai before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, came +on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or striking +in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a +perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken +his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where +he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being +presently known amongst the rest of the natives upon deck, +the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who +would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they +might be <i>tayos</i> (friends), and exchange names. Omai accepted +of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of +red feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for +a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was +not the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had +he not shewn to them his treasure of red feathers, which is +the commodity in greatest estimation at the island, I question +much whether they would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut +upon him. Such was Omai's first reception amongst +his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be +otherwise; but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo +of presents with which the liberality of his friends in England +had loaded him, would be the means of raising him +into consequence, and of making him respected, and even +courted by the first persons throughout the extent of the +Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had +he conducted himself with any degree of prudence; but, +instead of it, I am sorry to say that he paid too little regard +to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, +and suffered himself to be duped by every designing knave. +From the natives who came off to us, in the course of +this day, we learnt that two ships had twice been in Oheitepeha +Bay, since my last visit to this island in 1774, and +that they had left animals there such as we had on board. +But, on farther enquiry, we found they were only hogs, +dogs, goats, one bull, and the male of some other animal, +which, from the imperfect description now given us, we +could not find out. They told us that these ships had come +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page8" id="page8"></a>[pg 8]</span> +from a place called <i>Reema</i>, by which we guessed that Lima, +the capital of Peru, was meant, and that these late visitors +were Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they +came, they built a house, and left four men behind them, +viz. two priests, a boy or servant, and a fourth person called +Mateema, who was much spoken of at this time, carrying +away with them, when they sailed, four of the natives; +that, in about ten months, the same two ships returned, +bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having +died at Lima, and that, after a short stay, they took away +their own people; but that the house which they had built +was left standing.</p> + +<p>The important news of red feathers being on board our +ships, having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, +day had no sooner begun to break, next morning, than we +were surrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with +people, bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first, a +quantity of feathers, not greater than what might be got +from a tom-tit, would purchase a hog of forty or fifty +pounds weight. But, as almost every body in the ships was +possessed of some of this precious article of trade, it fell in +its value above five hundred per cent. before night. However, +even then, the balance was much in our favour, and +red feathers continued to preserve their superiority over +every other commodity. Some of the natives would not +part with a hog, unless they received an axe in exchange; +but nails and beads, and other trinkets, which, during our +former voyages, had so great a run at this island, were now +so much despised, that few would deign so much as to look +at them.</p> + +<p>There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine +o'clock before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where +we moored with the two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, +Omai's sister came on board to see him. I was happy +to observe, that, much to the honour of them both, +their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest +affection, easier to be conceived than to be described.</p> + +<p>This moving scene having closed, and the ship being +properly moored, Omai and I went ashore. My first object +was to pay a visit to a man whom my friend represented as +a very extraordinary personage indeed, for he said that he +was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under one +of those small awnings which they usually carry in their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page9" id="page9"></a>[pg 9]</span> +larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use +of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to place upon +a hand-barrow. Some called him <i>Olla</i>, or <i>Orra</i>, which +is the name of the god of Bolabola, but his own proper +name was Etary. From Omai's account of this person, I +expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him. +But, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before +him, and upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe +nothing by which he might be distinguished from +their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red +feathers, tied to the end of a small stick; but, after a little +conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola man, +his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his +mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed +them plentifully with tears of joy.</p> + +<p>I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of +people who had gathered round him, and went to take a +view of the house said to be built by the strangers who had +lately been here. I found it standing at a small distance +from the beach. The wooden materials of which it was +composed seemed to have been brought hither, ready prepared, +to be set up occasionally; for all the planks were +numbered. It was divided into two small rooms; and in +the inner one were a bedstead, a table, a bench, some old +hats, and other trifles, of which the natives seemed to be +very careful, as also of the house itself, which had suffered +no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built over it. +There were scuttles all around, which served as air holes; +and, perhaps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, +if ever this should have been found necessary. At a +little distance from the front stood a wooden cross, on the +transverse part of which was cut the following inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p><i>Christus vincit.</i></p> + </div> </div> + +<p>And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture +that the two ships were Spanish),</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p><i>Carolus</i> III. <i>imperat.</i> 1774.</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>On the other side of the post I preserved the memory of +the prior visits of the English, by inscribing,</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p><i>Georgius Tertius Rex,</i></p> +<p><i>Annis</i> 1767,</p> +<p>1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.</p> + </div> </div> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page10" id="page10"></a>[pg 10]</span> + +<p>The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, +the grave of the commodore of the two ships, who had +died here while they lay in the bay the first time. His +name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede. Whatever the +intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island might +be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate +themselves with the inhabitants, who, upon every occasion, +mentioned them with the strongest expressions of esteem, +and veneration.</p> + +<p>I met with no chief of any considerable note on this occasion, +excepting the extraordinary personage above described. +Waheiadooa, the sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the +island is called), was now absent; and I afterward found +that he was not the same person, though of the same name +with the chief whom I had seen here during my last voyage; +but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who +had succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, +about twenty months before our arrival. We also learned +that the celebrated Oberea was dead; but that Otoo and +all our other friends were living.</p> + +<p>When I returned from viewing the house and cross +erected by the Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a +large company; and it was with some difficulty that he +could be got away to accompany me on board, where I +had an important affair to settle.</p> + +<p>As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, +could furnish us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the +liquor of which is an excellent <i>succedaneum</i> for any artificial +beverage, I was desirous of prevailing upon my people +to consent to be abridged, during our stay here, of their +stated allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as this +stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning some reason, +might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought +it most prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to +make known to them the intent of the voyage, and the extent +of our future operations. To induce them to undertake +which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice +of the rewards offered by parliament to such of his +majesty's subjects as shall first discover a communication +between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in any direction +whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such as +shall first penetrate beyond the 39th degree of northern +latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page11" id="page11"></a>[pg 11]</span> +them willing to co-operate with me in attempting, as far as +might be possible, to become entitled to one or both these +rewards; but that, to give us the best chance of succeeding, +it would be necessary to observe the utmost economy +in the expenditure of our stores and provisions, particularly +the latter, as there was no probability of getting a supply +any where, after leaving these islands. I strengthened +my argument by reminding them that our voyage must +last at least a year longer than had been originally supposed, +by our having already lost the opportunity of getting +to the north this summer. I begged them to consider +the various obstructions and difficulties we might still meet +with, and the aggravated hardships they would labour under, +if it should be found necessary to put them to short +allowance of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. +For these very substantial reasons, I submitted to them +whether it would not be better to be prudent in time, and +rather than to run the risk of having no spirits left, when +such a cordial would be most wanted, to consent to be +without their grog now, when we had so excellent a liquor +as that of cocoa-nuts to substitute in its place; but that, +after all, I left the determination entirely to their own +choice.</p> + +<p>I had the satisfaction to find that this proposal did not +remain a single moment under consideration; being unanimously +approved of immediately, without any objection. +I ordered Captain Clerk to make the same proposal to his +people, which they also agreed to. Accordingly we stopped +serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when the companies +of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might +drink the healths of their female friends in England, lest +these, amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be +wholly forgotten.<a id="footnotetag3" name="footnotetag3"></a><a href="#footnote3"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>The next day, we began some necessary operations; to +inspect the provisions that were in the main and fore-hold; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page12" id="page12"></a>[pg 12]</span> +to get the casks of beef and pork, and the coals out of the +ground tier, and to put some ballast in their place. The +caulkers were set to work to caulk the ship, which she +stood in great need of, having at times made much water +on our passage from the Friendly Islands. I also put on +shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two +men to look after them while grazing; for I did not intend +to leave any of them at this part of the island.</p> + +<p>During the two following days, it hardly ever ceased +raining. The natives, nevertheless, came to us from every +quarter, the news of our arrival having rapidly spread. +Waheiadooa, though at a distance, had been informed of +it; and, in the afternoon of the 16th, a chief, named Etorea, +under whose tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as +a present from him, and acquainted me that he himself +would be with us the day after. And so it proved; for I +received a message from him the next morning, notifying +his arrival, and desiring I would go ashore to meet him. +Accordingly, Omai and I prepared to pay him a formal visit. +On this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends, +dressed himself, not after the English fashion, nor that of +Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any +country upon earth, but in a strange medley of all that he +was possessed of.</p> + +<p>Thus equipped, on our landing, we first visited Etary, +who, carried on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large +house, where he was set down, and we seated ourselves on +each side of him. I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth +to be spread out before us, on which I laid the presents I +intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended +by his mother, and several principal men, who all +seated themselves at the other end of the cloth, facing us. +Then a man, who sat by me, made a speech, consisting of +short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by +those about him. He was answered by one from the opposite +side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai, +and both of them were answered from the same quarter. +These orations were entirely about my arrival, and connexions +with them. The person who spoke last told me, +among other things, that the men of <i>Reema</i>, that is, the +Spaniards, had desired them not to suffer me to come into +Oheitepeha Bay, if I should return any more to the island, +for that it belonged to them; but that they were so far +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page13" id="page13"></a>[pg 13]</span> +from paying any regard to this request, that he was authorised +now to make a formal surrender of the province +of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks +very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy +of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. +At length, the young chief was directed by his attendants +to come and embrace me, and, by way of confirming +this treaty of friendship, we exchanged names. The +ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me +on board to dinner.</p> + +<p>Omai had prepared a <i>maro</i>, composed of red and yellow +feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the king of the +whole island; and, considering where we were, it was a +present of very great value. I said all that I could to persuade +him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on +board till an opportunity should offer of presenting it to +Otoo with his own hands. But he had too good an opinion +of the honesty and fidelity of his countrymen to take +my advice. Nothing would serve him but to carry it ashore +on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be by +him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the +royal <i>maro</i>. He thought by this management that he +should oblige both chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged +the one, whose favour was of the most consequence to him, +without gaining any reward from the other. What I had +foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the <i>maro</i> for +himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers, +not the twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent +present.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, this young chief made me a present of ten +or a dozen hogs, a quantity of fruit, and some cloth. In +the evening, we played off some fire-works, which both +astonished and entertained the numerous spectators.</p> + +<p>This day, some of our gentlemen in their walks found +what they were pleased to call a Roman Catholic chapel. +Indeed, from their account, this was not to be doubted, for +they described the altar, and every other constituent part +of such a place of worship. However, as they mentioned, +at the same time, that two men who had the care of it, +would not suffer them to go in, I thought that they might +be mistaken, and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. +The supposed chapel proved to be a <i>toopapaoo</i>, in +which the remains of the late Waheiadooa lay, as it were, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page14" id="page14"></a>[pg 14]</span> +in state. It was in a pretty large house, which was inclosed +with a low pallisade. The <i>toopapaoo</i> was uncommonly +neat, and resembled one of those little houses or +awnings belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps it had +originally been employed for that purpose. It was covered +and hung round with cloth and mats of different colours, +so as to have a pretty effect. There was one piece +of scarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length, conspicuous +among the other ornaments, which, no doubt, had +been a present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few +tassels of feathers, which our gentlemen supposed to be +silk, suggested to them the idea of a chapel, for, whatever +else was wanting to create a resemblance, their imagination +supplied; and, if they had not previously known that there +had been Spaniards lately here, they could not possibly +have made the mistake. Small offerings of fruit and roots +seemed to be daily made at this shrine, as some pieces were +quite fresh. These were deposited upon a <i>whatta</i>, or altar, +which stood without the pallisades; and within these we +were not permitted to enter. Two men constantly attended +night and day, not only to watch over the place, but +also to dress and undress the <i>toopapaoo</i>. For when I first +went to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all +rolled up; but, at my request, the two attendants hung it +out in order, first dressing themselves in clean white robes. +They told me that the chief had been dead twenty months.</p> + +<p>Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all +our other necessary operations, on the 22d, I brought off +the cattle and sheep which had been put on shore here to +graze, and made ready for sea.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, +Omai and I landed to take leave of the young +chief. While we were with him, one of those enthusiastic +persons whom they call <i>Eatooas</i>, from a persuasion that +they are possessed with the spirit of the divinity, came and +stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not +in his right senses; and his only dress was a large quantity +of plantain leaves, wrapped round his waist. He spoke +in a low squeaking voice, so as hardly to be understood, at +least not by me. But Omai said that he comprehended +him perfectly, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not +to go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never +heard that he intended, nor had I ever made such a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page15" id="page15"></a>[pg 15]</span> +proposal to him. The <i>Eatooa</i> also foretold that the ships +would not get to Matavai that day. But in this he was +mistaken; though appearances now rather favoured his +prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. +While he was prophesying, there fell a very heavy +shower of rain, which made every one run for shelter but +himself, who seemed not to regard it. He remained squeaking +by us about half an hour, and then retired. No one +paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed +at him. I asked the chief what he was, whether an +<i>Earee</i>, or a <i>Toutou</i>? and the answer I received was, that +he was <i>taata eno</i>; that is, a bad man. And yet, notwithstanding +this, and the little notice any of the natives seemed +to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got +the better of their reason, that they firmly believe such +persons to be possessed with the spirit of the <i>Eatooa</i>. +Omai seemed to be very well instructed about them. He +said that, during the fits that come upon them, they know +nobody, not even their most intimate acquaintances; and +that, if any one of them happens to be a man of property, +he will very often give away every moveable he is possessed +of, if his friends do not put them out of his reach; and, +when he recovers, will enquire what had become of those +very things which he had but just before distributed, not +seeming to have the least remembrance of what he had +done while the fit was upon him.<a id="footnotetag4" name="footnotetag4"></a><a href="#footnote4"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>As soon as I got on board, a light breeze springing up at +east, we got under sail, and steered for Matavai Bay, where +the Resolution anchored the same evening. But the Discovery +did not get in till the next morning; so that half +of the man's prophecy was fulfilled.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote1" name="footnote1"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag1"> (return) </a><p>See the conclusion of Sect. IX. Chap. II.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote2" name="footnote2"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag2"> (return) </a><p>This is the island on which Fletcher Christian, chief mutineer of +the +Bounty, attempted to form a settlement in 1789, as we shall have occasion +to notice when treating of another voyage.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote3" name="footnote3"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag3"> (return) </a><p>If it is to be judged of by its effects, certainly the most +suitable test +of excellence, we must allow that in this particular instance, Captain +Cook displayed true eloquence. The merit, indeed, is not inconsiderable, +of inducing so great a sacrifice as his crew now made; and, on the other +hand, due commendation ought to be allowed to their docility. This incident +altogether is exceedingly striking, and might, one should think, be +very advantageously studied by all who are in authority over vulgar +minds.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote4" name="footnote4"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag4"> (return) </a><p>What is the origin of that singular notion which is found amongst +the lower orders in most countries, that divine inspiration is often consequent +on temporary or continued derangement? Surely it cannot be +derived from any correct opinions respecting the Author of truth and +knowledge. We must ascribe it, then, to ignorance, and some feeling of +dread as to his power; or rather perhaps, we ought to consider it as the +hasty offspring of surprise, on the occasional display of reason, even in a +common degree, where the faculties are understood to be disordered. +Still it is singular, that the observers should have recourse for explanation +to so injurious and so improbable a supposition, as that of supernatural +agency. What has often, been said of sol-lunar and astral influence +on the human mind, the opinion of which is pretty widely spread over the +world, may be interpreted so as perfectly to agree with the +theoretical solution +of the question now proposed, the heavenly bodies being amongst +the first and the most generally established objects of religious apprehension +and worship. It is curious enough, that what may be called the +converse of the proposition, viz. that derangement follows or is accompanied +with inspiration, whether religious or common, should almost as extensively +have formed a part of the popular creed. The reason of this +notion again, is not altogether the same as that of the former; it has its +origin probably in the observation, that enthusiasm with respect to any +one subject, which, in the present case, is to be regarded as the appearance +or expression of inspiration, usually unfits a person for the requisite +attention to any other. The language of mankind accordingly quite falls +in with this observation, and nothing is more general than to speak of a +man being mad, who exhibits a more than ordinary ardour in the pursuit +of some isolated object. Still, however, there seems a tacit acknowledgement +amongst mankind, that the human mind can profitably attend to +only one thing at a time, and that all excellence in any pursuit is the result +of restricted unintermitting application: And hence it is, that enthusiasm, +though perhaps admitted to be allied to one of the highest evils +with which our nature can be visited, is nevertheless imagined to be an +indication of superior strength of intellect. The weakest minds, on the +contrary, are the most apprehensive of ridicule, and in consequence are +most cautious, by a seeming indifference as to objects, to avoid the dangerous +imputation of a decided partiality. Such persons, however, forming +undoubtedly the greater portion of every society, console themselves +and one another under the consciousness of debility, by the sense of their +safety, and by the fashionable custom of dealing out wise reflections on +those more enterprising minds, whose eccentricities or ardour, provoke +their admiration.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page16" id="page16"></a>[pg 16]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION II.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Interview with Otoo, King of the Island.—Imprudent Conduct +of Omai.—Employments on Shore.—European Animals +landed.—Particulars about a Native who had visited +Lima.—About Oedidee—A Revolt in Eimeo.—War with +that Island determined upon, in a Council of Chiefs.—A +human Sacrifice on that Account.—A particular Relation +of the Ceremonies at the great Morai, where the Sacrifice +was offered.—Other barbarous Customs of this People.</i></blockquote> + +<p>About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of +the whole island, attended by a great number of canoes +full of people, came from Oparre, his place of residence +and having landed on Matavai Point, sent a message on +board, expressing his desire to see me there. Accordingly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page17" id="page17"></a>[pg 17]</span> +I landed, accompanied by Omai, and some of the officers. +We found a prodigious number of people assembled on +this occasion, and in the midst of them was the king, attended +by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters. +I went up first and saluted him, being followed by Omai, +who kneeled and embraced his legs. He had prepared +himself for this ceremony, by dressing himself in his very +best suit of clothes, and behaved with a great deal of respect +and modesty. Nevertheless, very little notice was +taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in producing +this cold reception. He made the chief a present of a +large piece of red feathers, and about two or three yards of +gold cloth; and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced +hat, some tools, and, what was of more value than all +the other articles, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the +bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands.</p> + +<p>After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the +whole royal family accompanied me on board, followed by +several canoes, laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity +sufficient to have served the companies of both ships +for a week. Each of the family owned, or pretended to +own, a part; so that I had a present from every one of +them, and every one of them had a separate present in return +from me, which was the great object in view. Soon +after, the king's mother, who had not been present at the +first interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity +of provisions and cloth, which she divided between me +and Omai. For, although he was but little noticed at +first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained the knowledge +of his riches, than they began to court his friendship. +I encouraged this as much as I could, for it was my wish +to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my European +animals at this island, I thought he would be able +to give some instruction about the management of them, +and about their use. Besides, I knew and saw, that the +farther he was from his native island, he would be the better +respected. But, unfortunately, poor Omai rejected my +advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a manner, +that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other +person of note in Otaheite. He associated with none but +vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder +him. And, if I had not interfered, they would not have +left him a single article worth the carrying from the island. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page18" id="page18"></a>[pg 18]</span> +This necessarily drew upon him the ill-will of the principal +chiefs, who found that they could not procure, from any +one in the ships, such valuable presents as Omai bestowed +on the lowest of the people, his companions.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied +Otoo to Oparre, taking with us the poultry, with which we +were to stock the island. They consisted of a peacock and +hen (which Lord Besborough was so kind as to send me +for this purpose, a few days before I left London); a turkey-cock +and hen; one gander, and three geese; a drake +and four ducks. All these I left at Oparre, in the possession +of Otoo; and the geese and ducks began to breed before +we sailed. We found there a gander, which the natives +told us, was the same that Captain Wallis had given +to Oberea ten years before; several goats, and the Spanish +bull, whom they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I +never saw a finer animal of his kind. He was now the +property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitepeha +to this place, in order to be shipped for Bolabola. But it +passes my comprehension, how they can contrive to carry +him in one of their canoes. If we had not arrived, it would +have been of little consequence who had the property of +him, as, without a cow, he could be of no use; and none +had been left with him. Though the natives told us, that +there were cows on board the Spanish ships, and that they +took them away with them, I cannot believe this, and +should rather suppose, that they had died in the passage +from Lima. The next day, I sent the three cows, that I +had on board, to this bull; and the bull, which I had +brought, the horse and mare, and sheep, I put ashore at +Matavai.</p> + +<p>Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found my +self lightened of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and +vexation that attended the bringing this living cargo thus +far, is hardly to be conceived. But the satisfaction that I +felt, in having been so fortunate as to fulfil his majesty's +humane design, in sending such valuable animals, to supply +the wants of two worthy nations, sufficiently recompensed +me for the many anxious hours I had passed, before +this subordinate object of my voyage could be carried +into execution.</p> + +<p>As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two +observatories on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them, two +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page19" id="page19"></a>[pg 19]</span> +tents were pitched for the reception of a guard, and of such +people as it might be necessary to leave on shore, in different +departments. At this station, I entrusted the command +to Mr King, who, at the same time, attended the observations, +for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper, and +other purposes. During our stay, various necessary operations +employed the crews of both ships. The Discovery's +main-mast was carried ashore, and made as good as ever. +Our sails and water-casks were repaired, the ships were +caulked, and the rigging all overhauled. We also inspected +all the bread that we had on board in casks; and had +the satisfaction to find that but little of it was damaged.</p> + +<p>On the 26th, I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, +and planted it with several articles, very few of which, +I believe, the natives, will ever look after. Some melons, +potatoes, and two pine-apple plants, were in a fair way of +succeeding before we left the place. I had brought from +the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees. These I also +planted here; and they can hardly fail of success, unless +their growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity, +which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at +Oheitepeha. A number of the natives got together to taste +the first fruit it bore; but, as the grapes were still sour, +they considered it as little better than poison, and it was +unanimously determined to tread it under foot. In that +state, Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the +discovery. For he had a full confidence, that, if he had +but grapes, he could easily make wine. Accordingly, he +had several slips cut off from the tree, to carry away with +him; and we pruned and put in order the remains of it. +Probably, grown wise by Omai's instructions, they may +now suffer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so +hasty a sentence upon it again.</p> + +<p>We had not been eight and forty hours at anchor in +Matavai Bay, before we were visited by all our old friends, +whose names are recorded in the account of my last voyage. +Not one of them came empty-handed; so that we +had more provisions than we knew what to do with. What +was still more, we were under no apprehensions of exhausting +the island, which presented to our eyes every mark of +the most exuberant plenty, in every article of refreshment.</p> + +<p>Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives, whom the +Spaniards had carried with them to Lima, paid us a visit; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page20" id="page20"></a>[pg 20]</span> +but, in his external appearance, he was not distinguishable +from the rest of his countrymen. However, he had not +forgot some Spanish words which he had acquired, though +he pronounced them badly. Amongst them, the most frequent +were, <i>si Sennor</i>; and, when a stranger was introduced +to him, he did not fail to rise up and accost him, as well as +he could.</p> + +<p>We also found here the young man whom we called Oedidee, +but whose real name is Heete-heete. I had carried +him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774; +after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, +Easter Island, and the Marqueses, and been on board my +ship, in that extensive navigation, about seven months. He +was, at least, as tenacious of his good breeding, as the man +who had been at Lima; and <i>yes, Sir</i>, or <i>if you please, Sir</i>, +were as frequently repeated by him, as <i>si Sennor</i> was by the +other. Heete-heete, who is a native of Bolabola, had arrived +in Otaheite about three months before, with no other +intention, that we could learn, than to gratify his curiosity, +or, perhaps, some other favourite passion; which are very +often the only objects of the pursuit of other travelling gentlemen. +It was evident, however, that he preferred the +modes, and even garb, of his countrymen, to ours. For, +though I gave him some clothes, which our Admiralty +Board had been pleased to send for his use (to which I +added a chest of tools, and a few other articles, as a present +from myself), he declined wearing them, after a few days. +This instance, and that of the person who had been at +Lima, may be urged as a proof of the strong propensity natural +to man, of returning to habits acquired at an early +age, and only interrupted by accident. And, perhaps, it +may be concluded, that even Omai, who had imbibed almost +the whole English manners, will, in a very short time +after our leaving him, like Oedidee, and the visiter of Lima, +return to his own native garments.<a id="footnotetag5" name="footnotetag5"></a><a href="#footnote5"><sup>1</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page21" id="page21"></a>[pg 21]</span> + +<p>In the morning of the 27th, a man came from Oheitepeha, +and told us, that two Spanish ships had anchored in +that bay the night before; and, in confirmation of this intelligence, +he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which, +he said, he got out of one of the ships, and which, indeed, +to appearance, was almost quite new. He added, that +Mateema was in one of the ships, and that they were to +come down to Matavai in a day or two. Some other circumstances +which he mentioned, with the foregoing ones, +gave the story so much the air of truth, that I dispatched +Lieutenant Williamson in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha +bay; and, in the mean time, I put the ships into a proper +posture of defence. For, though England and Spain were +in peace when I left Europe, for aught I knew, a different +scene might, by this time, have opened. However, on farther +enquiry, we had reason to think that the fellow who +brought the intelligence had imposed upon us; and this +was put beyond all doubt, when Mr Williamson returned +next day, who made his report to me, that he had been at +Oheitepeha, and found that no ships were there now, and +that none had been there since we left it. The people of +this part of the island where we now were, indeed, told us, +from the beginning, that it was a fiction invented by those +of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we were at a +loss to conceive, unless they supposed that the report would +have some effect in making us quit the island, and, by that +means, deprive the people of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages +they might reap from our ships continuing there; the +inhabitants of the two parts of the island being inveterate +enemies to each other.</p> + +<p>From the time of our arrival at Matavai, the weather +had been very unsettled, with more or less rain every day, +till the 29th; before which we were not able to get equal +altitudes of the sun for ascertaining the going of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page22" id="page22"></a>[pg 22]</span> +time-keeper. The same cause also retarded the caulking and +other necessary repairs of the ships.</p> + +<p>In the evening of this day, the natives made a precipitate +retreat, both from on board the ships, and from our station +on shore. For what reason, we could not, at first, learn; +though, in general, we guessed it arose from their knowing +that some theft had been committed, and apprehending +punishment on that account. At length, I understood what +had happened. One of the surgeon's mates had been in +the country to purchase curiosities, and had taken with +him four hatchets for that purpose. Having employed +one of the natives to carry them for him, the fellow took +an opportunity to run off with so valuable a prize. This +was the cause of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself, +and his whole family, had joined; and it was with difficulty +that I stopped them, after following them two or three +miles. As I had resolved to take no measures for the recovery +of the hatchets, in order to put my people upon their +guard against such negligence for the future, I found no +difficulty in bringing the natives back, and in restoring +every thing to its usual tranquillity.</p> + +<p>Hitherto, the attention of Otoo and his people had been +confined to us; but, next morning, a new scene of business +opened, by the arrival of some messengers from Eimeo, or +(as it is much oftener called by the natives) Morea,<a id="footnotetag6" name="footnotetag6"></a><a href="#footnote6"><sup>2</sup></a> with +intelligence, that the people in that island were in arms; +and that Otoo's partizans there had been worsted, and obliged +to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between +the two islands, which commenced in 1774, as mentioned +in the account of my last voyage, had, it seems, partly subsisted +ever since. The formidable armament which I saw +at that time, and described, had sailed soon after I then left +Otaheite; but the malcontents of Eimeo had made so stout +a resistance, that the fleet had returned without effecting +much; and now another expedition was necessary.</p> + +<p>On the arrival of these messengers, all the chiefs, who +happened to be at Matavai, assembled at Otoo's house, +where I actually was at the time, and had the honour to be +admitted into their council. One of the messengers opened +the business of the assembly, in a speech of considerable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page23" id="page23"></a>[pg 23]</span> +length. But I understood little of it, besides its general +purport, which was to explain the situation of affairs in +Eimeo; and to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to +arm on the occasion. This opinion was combated by others +who were against commencing hostilities; and the debate +was carried on with great order, no more than one man +speaking at a time. At last, they became very noisy, and +I expected that our meeting would have ended like a Polish +diet. But the contending great men cooled as fast as +they grew warm, and order was soon restored. At length, +the party for war prevailed; and it was determined, that a +strong force should be sent to assist their friends in Eimeo. +But this resolution was far from being unanimous. Otoo, +during the whole debate, remained silent; except that, +now and then, he addressed a word or two to the speakers. +Those of the council, who were for prosecuting the war, +applied to me for my assistance; and all of them wanted +to know what part I would take. Omai was sent for to be +my interpreter; but, as he could not be found, I was obliged +to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I could, +that as I was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, +and as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could +not think myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against +them. With this declaration they either were, or seemed, +satisfied. The assembly then broke up; but, before I left +them, Otoo desired me to come to him in the afternoon, +and to bring Omai with me.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, a party of us waited upon him at the appointed +time; and we were conducted by him to his father, +in whose presence the dispute with Eimeo was again +talked over. Being very desirous of devising some method +to bring about an accommodation, I sounded the old chief +on that head. But we found him deaf to any such proposal, +and fully determined to prosecute the war. He repeated +the solicitations which I had already resisted, about +giving them my assistance. On our enquiring into the +cause of the war, we were told, that, some years ago, a brother +of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at +the request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to +be their king; but that he had not been there a week before +Maheine, having caused him to be killed, set up for +himself, in opposition to Tierataboonooe, his sister's son, +who became the lawful heir; or else had been pitched +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page24" id="page24"></a>[pg 24]</span> +upon, by the people of Otaheite, to succeed to the government +on the death of the other.</p> + +<p>Towha, who was a relation of Otoo, and chief of the district +of Tettaha, a man of much weight in the island, and +who had been commander-in-chief of the armament fitted +out against Eimeo in 1774, happened not to be at Matavai +at this time; and, consequently, was not present at any of +these consultations. It, however, appeared that he was no +stranger to what was transacted; and that he entered with +more spirit into the affair than any other chief. For, early +in the morning of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived +from him to acquaint Otoo that he had killed a man +to be sacrificed to the <i>Eatooa</i>, to implore the assistance of +the god against Eimeo. This act of worship was to be performed +at the great <i>Morai</i> at Attahooroo; and Otoo's presence, +it seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn +occasion.</p> + +<p>That the offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious +institutions of this island, had been mentioned by +Mons. de Bougainville, on the authority of the native +whom he carried with him to France. During my last visit +to Otaheite, and while I had opportunities of conversing +with Omai on the subject, I had satisfied myself that there +was too much reason to admit that such a practice, however +inconsistent with the general humanity of the people, +was here adopted. But as this was one of those extraordinary +facts, about which many are apt to retain doubts, unless +the relater himself has had ocular proof to confirm +what he had heard from others, I thought this a good opportunity +of obtaining the highest evidence of its certainty, +by being present myself at the solemnity; and, accordingly, +proposed to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany +him. To this he readily consented; and we immediately +set out in my boat, with my old friend Potatou, +Mr Anderson, and Mr Webber; Omai following in a +canoe.</p> + +<p>In our way we landed upon a little island, which lies off +Tettaha, where we found Towha and his retinue. After +some little conversation between the two chiefs, on the +subject of the war, Towha addressed himself to me, asking +my assistance. When I excused myself, he seemed angry, +thinking it strange, that I, who had always declared myself +to be the friend of their island, would not now go and fight +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page25" id="page25"></a>[pg 25]</span> +against its enemies. Before we parted, he gave to Otoo +two or three red feathers, tied up in a tuft, and a lean half-starved +dog was put into a canoe that was to accompany us. +We then embarked again, taking on board a priest who +was to assist at the solemnity.</p> + +<p>As soon as we landed at Attahooroo, which was about +two o'clock in the afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire +that the seamen might be ordered to remain in the boat; +and that Mr Anderson, Mr Webber, and myself, might +take off our hats as soon as we should come to the <i>morai</i>, +to which we immediately proceeded, attended by a great +many men and some boys, but not one woman. We found +four priests, and their attendants, or assistants, waiting for +us. The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a small canoe that +lay on the beach, and partly in the wash of the sea, fronting +the <i>morai</i>. Two of the priests, with some of their attendants, +were sitting by the canoe, the others at the <i>morai</i>. +Our company stopped about twenty or thirty paces from +the priests. Here Otoo placed himself; we, and a few +others, standing by him, while the bulk of the people remained +at a greater distance.</p> + +<p>The ceremonies now began. One of the priest's attendants +brought a young plantain-tree, and laid it down before +Otoo. Another approached with a small tuft of red feathers, +twisted on some fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, with +which he touched one of the king's feet, and then retired +with it to his companions. One of the priests, seated at the +<i>morai</i>, facing those who were upon the beach, now began a +long prayer, and at certain times, sent down young plantain-trees, +which were laid upon the sacrifice. During this +prayer, a man, who stood by the officiating priest, held in +his hands two bundles, seemingly of cloth. In one of them, +as we afterward found, was the royal <i>maro</i>; and the other, +if I may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the <i>Eatooa</i>. +As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the +<i>morai</i>, with their attendants, went and sat down by those +upon the beach, carrying with them the two bundles. Here +they renewed their prayers; during which the plantain-trees +were taken, one by one, at different times, from off the sacrifice, +which was partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and +small branches. It was now taken out of the canoe, and +laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea. The priests +placed themselves around it, some sitting and others +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page26" id="page26"></a>[pg 26]</span> +standing, and one or more of them repeated sentences for about +ten minutes. The dead body was now uncovered, by removing +the leaves and branches, and laid in a parallel direction +with the sea-shore. One of the priests then standing +at the feet of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he +was at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand +a tuft of red feathers. In the course of this prayer, some +hair was pulled off the head of the sacrifice, and the left +eye taken out, both which were presented to Otoo, wrapped +up in a green leaf. He did not however touch it, but gave +to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers which he +had received from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, +was carried back to the priests. Soon after, Otoo sent to +them another piece of feathers, which he had given me in +the morning to keep in my pocket. During some part of +this last ceremony, a kingfisher making a noise in the trees, +Otoo turned to me, saying, "That is the <i>Eatooa</i>" and +seemed to look upon it to be a good omen.</p> + +<p>The body was then carried a little way, with its head towards +the <i>morai</i>, and laid under a tree, near which were fixed +three broad thin pieces of wood, differently but rudely +carved. The bundles of cloth were laid on a part of the +<i>morai</i>, and the tufts of red feathers were placed at the feet +of the sacrifice, round which the priests took their stations, +and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. He +who seemed to be the chief priest sat at a small distance, +and spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones +and gestures, so that he seemed often to expostulate with +the dead person, to whom he constantly addressed himself; +and sometimes asked several questions, seemingly with respect +to the propriety of his having been killed. At other +times, he made several demands, as if the deceased either +now had power himself, or interest with the divinity, to engage +him to comply with such requests. Amongst which, +we understood, he asked him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its +chief, the hogs, women, and other things of the island, into +their hands; which was, indeed, the express intention of +the sacrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which lasted near +half an hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, accompanied +by two other priests; and in which Potatou and some +others joined. In the course of this prayer, some more hair +was plucked by a priest from the head of the corpse, and +put upon one of the bundles. After this, the chief priest +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page27" id="page27"></a>[pg 27]</span> +prayed alone, holding in his hand the feathers which came +from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to another, +who prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of +feathers were laid upon the bundles of cloth, which closed +the ceremony at this place.</p> + +<p>The corpse was then carried up to the most conspicuous +part of the <i>morai</i>, with the feathers, the two bundles of +cloth, and the drums; the last of which beat slowly. The +feathers and bundles were laid against the pile of stones, +and the corpse at the foot of them. The priests having +again seated themselves round it, renewed their prayers, +while some of their attendants dug a hole about two feet +deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered +it over with earth and stones. While they were putting +him into the grave, a boy squeaked aloud, and Omai +said to me, that it was the <i>Eatooa</i>. During this time, a fire +having been made, the dog before-mentioned, was produced, +and killed, by twisting his neck and suffocating him. +The hair was singed off, and the entrails taken out, and +thrown into the fire, where they were left to consume. But +the heart, liver, and kidneys were only roasted, by being +laid on hot stones for a few minutes; and the body of the +dog, after being besmeared with the blood, which had been +collected into a cocoa-nut shell, and dried over the fire, +was, with the liver, &c. carried and laid down before the +priests, who sat praying round the grave. They continued +their ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two +men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud; and a boy +screamed, as before, in a loud, shrill voice, three different +times. This, as we were told, was to invite the <i>Eatooa</i> to +feast on the banquet that they had prepared for him. As +soon as the priests had ended their prayers, the carcass of +the dog, with what belonged to it, were laid on a <i>whatta</i>, or +scaffold, about six feet high, that stood close by, on which +lay the remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which +had lately been sacrificed, and, at this time, emitted an intolerable +stench. This kept us at a greater distance, than +would otherwise have been required of us. For after the +victim was removed from the sea-side toward the <i>morai</i>, we +were allowed to approach as near as we pleased. Indeed, +after that, neither seriousness nor attention were much observed +by the spectators. When the dog was put upon the +<i>whatta</i>, the priests and attendants gave a kind of shout, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page28" id="page28"></a>[pg 28]</span> +which closed the ceremonies for the present. The day being +now also closed, we were conducted to a house belonging +to Potatou, where we were entertained, and lodged for +the night. We had been told that the religious rites were +to be renewed in the morning; and I would not leave the +place, while any thing remained to be seen.</p> + +<p>Being unwilling to lose any part of the solemnity, some +of us repaired to the scene of action pretty early, but found +nothing going forward. However, soon after a pig was sacrificed, +and laid upon the same <i>whatta</i> with the others. +About eight o'clock, Otoo took us again to the <i>morai</i>, where +the priests, and a great number of men, were by this time +assembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which +we had seen them deposited the preceding evening; the +two drums stood in the front of the <i>morai</i>, but somewhat +nearer it than before, and the priests were beyond them. +Otoo placed himself between the two drums, and desired +me to stand by him.</p> + +<p>The ceremony began, as usual, with bringing a young +plantain-tree, and laying it down at the king's feet. After +this a prayer was repeated by the priests, who held in their +hands several tufts of red feathers, and also a plume of ostrich +feathers, which I had given to Otoo on my first arrival, +and had been consecrated to this use. When the +priests had made an end of the prayer, they changed their +station, placing themselves between us and the <i>morai</i>; and +one of them, the same person who had acted the principal +part the day before, began another prayer, which lasted +about half an hour. During the continuance of this, the +tufts of feathers were, one by one, carried and laid upon the +ark of the <i>Eatooa</i>.</p> + +<p>Some little time after, four pigs were produced, one of +which was immediately killed, and the others were taken to +a sty hard by, probably reserved for some future occasion +of sacrifice. One of the bundles was now untied; and it +was found, as I have before observed, to contain the <i>maro</i>, +with which these people invest their kings, and which seems +to answer, in some degree, to the European ensigns of +royalty, it was carefully taken out of the cloth, in which, +it had been wrapped up, and spread at full length upon the +ground before the priests. It is a girdle, about five yards +long; and fifteen inches broad; and, from its name, seems +to be put on in the same manner as is the common <i>maro</i>, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page29" id="page29"></a>[pg 29]</span> +or piece of cloth, used by these people to wrap round the +waist. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers, +but mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon +the island. The one end was bordered with eight pieces, +each about the size and shape of a horse-shoe, having their +edges fringed with black feathers. The other end was +forked, and the points were of different lengths. The feathers +were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, +and otherwise so disposed, as to produce a pleasing effect. +They had been first pasted or fixed upon some of their own +country cloth, and then sewed to the upper end of the pendant +which Captain Wallis had displayed, and left flying +ashore, the first time that he landed at Matavai. This was +what they told us; and we had no reason to doubt it, as we +could easily trace the remains of an English pendant. +About six or eight inches square of the <i>maro</i> was unornamented, +there being no feathers upon that space, except a +few that had been sent by Waheiadooa, as already mentioned. +The priests made a long prayer, relative to this part of +the ceremony; and, if I mistook not, they called it the +prayer of the <i>maro</i>. When it was finished, the badge of +royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and deposited +again upon the <i>morai</i>.</p> + +<p>The other bundle, which I have distinguished by the +name of the ark, was next opened at one end. But we were +not allowed to go near enough to examine its mysterious +contents. The information we received was, that the <i>Eatooa</i>, +to whom they had been sacrificing, and whose name +is <i>Ooro</i>, was concealed in it, or rather what is supposed to +represent him. This sacred repository is made of the twisted +fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, shaped somewhat +like a large fig, or sugar-loaf, that is, roundish, with one end +much thicker than the other. We had very often got small +ones from different people, but never knew their use before.</p> + +<p>By this time, the pig that had been killed, was cleaned, +and the entrails taken out. These happened to have a considerable +share of those convulsive motions, which often appear, +in different parts, after an animal is killed; and this +was considered by the spectators as a very favourable omen +to the expedition on account of which the sacrifices had +been offered. After being exposed for some time, that +those who chose might examine their appearances, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page30" id="page30"></a>[pg 30]</span> +entrails were carried to the priests, and laid down before +them. While one of their number prayed, another inspected +the entrails more narrowly, and kept turning them gently +with a stick. When they had been sufficiently examined, +they were thrown into the fire, and left to consume. The +sacrificed pig and its liver, &c. were now put upon the +<i>whatta</i>, where the dog had been deposited the day before; +and then all the feathers, except the ostrich plume, were +enclosed with the <i>Eatooa</i> in the ark, and the solemnity finally +closed.</p> + +<p>Four double canoes lay upon the beach, before the place +of sacrifice, all the morning. On the fore part of each of +these was fixed a small platform, covered with palm-leaves, +tied in mysterious knots; and this also is called a <i>morai</i>. +Some cocoa-nuts, plantains, pieces of bread-fruit, fish, and +other things, lay upon each of these naval <i>morais</i>. We were +told that they belonged to the <i>Eatooa</i>, and that they were +to attend the fleet designed to go against Eimeo.</p> + +<p>The unhappy victim, offered to the object of their worship +upon this occasion, seemed to be a middle-aged man; +and, as we were told, was a <i>toutou</i>, that is, one of the lowest +class of the people. But, after all my enquiries, I could +not learn that he had been pitched upon on account of any +particular crime committed by him meriting death. It is +certain, however, that they generally make choice of such +guilty persons for their sacrifices, or else of common, low +fellows who stroll about, from place to place, and from +island to island, without having any fixed abode, or any visible +way of getting an honest livelihood; of which description +of men, enough are to be met with at these +islands. Having had an opportunity of examining the appearance +of the body of the poor sufferer now offered up, I +could observe, that it was bloody about the head and face, +and a good deal bruised upon the right temple, which +marked the manner of his being killed. And we were told, +that he had been privately knocked on the head with a +stone.</p> + +<p>Those who are devoted to suffer, in order to perform this +bloody act of worship, are never apprised of their fate, till +the blow is given that puts an end to their existence. +Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice +necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches +upon the victim. Some of his trusty servants are then sent, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page31" id="page31"></a>[pg 31]</span> +who fall upon him suddenly, and put him to death with a +club, or by stoning him. The king is next acquainted with +it, whose presence, at the solemn rites that follow, is, as I +was told, absolutely necessary; and indeed on the present +occasion, we could observe, that Otoo bore a principal +part. The solemnity itself is called <i>Poore Eree</i>, or chief's +prayer; and the victim, who is offered up, <i>Taata-taboo</i>, or +consecrated man. This is the only instance where we have +heard the word <i>taboo</i> used at this island, where it seems to +have the same mysterious signification as at Tonga, though +it is there applied to all cases where things are not to be +touched. But at Otaheite, the word <i>raa</i> serves the same +purpose, and is full as extensive in its meaning.</p> + +<p>The <i>morai</i>, (which undoubtedly is a place of worship, sacrifice, +and burial, at the same time,) where the sacrifice +was now offered, is that where the supreme chief of the +whole island is always buried, and is appropriated to his family, +and some of the principal people. It differs little +from the common ones, except in extent. Its principal part +is a large oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon each; +other, about twelve or fourteen feet high; contracted toward +the top, with a square area on each side, loosely paved +with pebble stones, under which the bones of the chiefs are +buried. At a little distance from the end nearest the sea +is the place where the sacrifices are offered, which, for a +considerable extent, is also loosely paved. There is here a +very large scaffold, or <i>whatta</i>, on which the offerings of +fruits and other vegetables are laid. But the animals are +deposited on a smaller one, already mentioned, and the human +sacrifices are buried under different parts of the pavement. +There are several other reliques which ignorant +superstition had scattered about this place; such as small +stones, raised in different parts of the pavement, some with +bits of cloth tied round them, others covered with it; and +upon the side of the large pile, which fronts the area, are +placed a great many pieces of carved wood, which are supposed +to be sometimes the residence of their divinities, and +consequently held sacred. But one place more particular +than the rest, is a heap of stones at one end of the large +<i>whatta</i>, before which the sacrifice was offered, with a kind +of platform at one side. On this are laid the sculls of all +the human sacrifices, which are taken up after they have +been several months under ground. Just above them are +placed a great number of the pieces of wood; and it was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page32" id="page32"></a>[pg 32]</span> +also here, where the <i>maro</i>, and the other bundle supposed +to contain the god Ooro (and which I call the ark), were +laid during the ceremony, a circumstance which denotes +its agreement with the altar of other nations.</p> + +<p>It is much to be regretted, that a practice so horrid in +its own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right +of self-preservation which every one is born with, should +be found still existing; and (such is the power of superstition +to counteract the first principles of humanity!) existing +amongst a people, in many other respects, emerged +from the brutal manners of savage life. What is still worse, +it is probable that these bloody rites of worship are prevalent +throughout all the wide-extended islands of the Pacific +Ocean. The similarity of customs and language, which +our late voyages have enabled us to trace, between the +most distant of these islands, makes it not unlikely that +some of the more important articles of their religious institutions +should agree. And indeed we had the most authentic +information, that human sacrifices continue to be offered +at the Friendly Islands. When I described the <i>Natche</i> +at Tongataboo, I mentioned that on the approaching sequel +of that festival, we had been told that ten men were to be +sacrificed. This may give us an idea of the extent of this +religious massacre in that island. And though we should +suppose that never more than one person is sacrificed on +any single occasion at Otaheite, it is more than probable +that these occasions happen so frequently, as to make a +shocking waste of the human race, for I counted no less than +forty-nine sculls of former victims, lying before the <i>morai</i>, +where we saw one more added to the number. And as none +of those sculls had as yet suffered any considerable change +from the weather, it may hence be inferred, that no great +length of time had elapsed, since, at least, this considerable +number of unhappy wretches had been offered upon this +altar of blood.</p> + +<p>The custom, though no consideration can make it cease +to be abominable, might be thought less detrimental in +some respects, if it served to impress any awe for the divinity +or reverence for religion upon the minds of the multitude. +But this is so far from being the case, that though a +great number of people had assembled at the <i>morai</i> on this +occasion, they did not seem to shew any proper reverence +for what was doing or saying during the celebration of the +rites. And Omai happening to arrive, after they had begun, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page33" id="page33"></a>[pg 33]</span> +many of the spectators flocked round him, and were engaged +the remainder of the time in making him relate some +of his adventures, which they listened to with great attention, +regardless of the solemn offices performing by their +priests. Indeed, the priests themselves, except the one who +chiefly repeated the prayers, either from their being familiarized +to such objects, or from want of confidence in the +efficacy of their institutions, observed very little of that solemnity +which is necessary to give to religious performances +their due weight. Their dress was only an ordinary +one, they conversed together without scruple, and the only +attempt made by them to preserve any appearance of decency, +was by exerting their authority to prevent the people +from coming upon the very spot where the ceremonies +were performed, and to suffer us as strangers to advance a +little forward. They were, however, very candid in their +answers to any questions that were put to them concerning +the institution. And particularly on being asked what the +intention of it was, they said that it was an old custom, +and was agreeable to their god, who delighted in, or in +other words, came and fed upon the sacrifices; in consequence +of which, he complied with their petitions. Upon +its being objected that he could not feed on these, as he was +neither seen to do it, nor were the bodies of the animals +quickly consumed, and that as to the human victim, they +prevented his feeding on him by burying him. But to all +this they answered, that he came in the night, but invisibly, +and fed only on the soul, or immaterial part, which, +according to their doctrine, remains about the place of sacrifice, +until the body of the victim be entirely wasted by +putrefaction.</p> + +<p>It were much to be wished, that this deluded people may +learn to entertain the same horror of murdering their fellow-creatures, +in order to furnish such an invisible banquet +to their god, as they now have of feeding corporeally on +human flesh themselves. And yet we have great reason to +believe, that there was a time when they were cannibals. +We were told (and indeed partly saw it) that it is a necessary +ceremony when a poor wretch is sacrificed, for the +priest to take out the left eye. This he presents to the king, +holding it to his mouth, which he desires him to open; but +instead of putting it in, immediately withdraws it. This +they call "eating the man," or "food for the chief;" and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page34" id="page34"></a>[pg 34]</span> +perhaps we may observe here some traces of former times, +when the dead body was really feasted upon.</p> + +<p>But not to insist upon this, it is certain, that human sacrifices +are not the only barbarous custom we find still prevailing +amongst this benevolent humane people. For besides +cutting out the jaw-bones of their enemies slain in +battle, which they carry about as trophies, they, in some +measure, offer their bodies as a sacrifice to the <i>Eatooa</i>. +Soon after a battle, in which they have been victors, they +collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands and +bring them to the <i>morai</i>, where, with a great deal of ceremony, +they dig a hole, and bury them all in it, as so many +offerings to the gods; but their sculls are never after taken +up.</p> + +<p>Their own great chiefs that fall in battle are treated in a +different manner. We were informed, that their late king +Tootaha, Tubourai-tamaide, and another chief, who fell +with them in the battle fought with those of Tiaraboo, were +brought to this <i>morai</i> at Attahooroo. There their bowels +were cut out by the priests before the great altar, and the +bodies afterward buried in three different places, which +were pointed out to us, in the great pile of stones that compose +the most conspicuous part of this <i>morai</i>. And their +common men who also fell in this battle, were all buried in +one hole at the foot of the pile. This, Omai, who was present, +told me, was done the day after the battle, with much +pomp and ceremony, and in the midst of a great concourse +of people, as a thanksgiving-offering to the <i>Eatooa</i>, for the +victory they had obtained; while the vanquished had taken +refuge in the mountains. There they remained a week or +ten days, till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty +set on foot, by which it was agreed, that Otoo should be +declared king of the whole island, and the solemnity of investing +him with the <i>maro</i> was performed at the same <i>morai</i> +with great pomp, in the presence of all the principal men +of the country.<a id="footnotetag7" name="footnotetag7"></a><a href="#footnote7"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote5" name="footnote5"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag5"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook's remark has often been exemplified in other instances. +The tendency to revert to barbarism is so strong, as to need to be continually +checked by the despotism of refined manners, and all the healthful +emulations of civilized societies. Perhaps the rather harsh observation of +Dr Johnson, that there is always a great deal of <i>scoundrelism</i> in a low +man, is more strictly applicable to the cases of savages in general, than to +even the meanest member of any cultivated community. But in the case +of a superiorly endowed individual situate amongst a mass of ruder +beings, +to all of whom he is attached by the strongest ties of affection and +early acquaintance, another powerfully deranging cause is at work in addition +to the natural tendency to degenerate, viz. the necessity of accommodating +himself to established customs and opinions. The former agent +alone, we know, has often degraded Europeans. Is it to be thought wonderful +then, that, where both principles operate, a man of Omai's character +should speedily relinquish foreign acquirements, and retrograde into his +original barbarity?—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote6" name="footnote6"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag6"> (return) </a><p>Morea, according to Dr Forster, is a district in Eimeo. See his +<i>Observations</i>, +p. 217.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote7" name="footnote7"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag7"> (return) </a><p>We must trespass a little on the reader's patience as was formerly +threatened. But on so curious, and indeed so exceedingly important a +subject as human sacrifices, it is allowable to claim the serious attention of +every intelligent being. Who can withhold anxiety from an enquiry into +the reality of the fact, as a fundamental part of religion in every nation at +some period of its history—or dare to affect indifference as to the origin +and meaning of so portentous and horrible a rite? It will be our +study to +be as brief as possible in conveying the information respecting both, which +every man ought to possess, who values correct opinions respecting the +moral condition of our nature. First, then, as to the universality of the +practice. This is of course to be ascertained from testimony. And +perhaps on no subject in the history of mankind, is there a more decided +agreement in the assertions of different witnesses. We shall run over the +various nations of the earth, of whom we have any thing like satisfactory +evidence. Here we avail ourselves of the labours of several authors, as Dr +Jenkin, De Paauw, Mr Bryant, Mr Parkhurst, Dr Magee, and others. We +commence with the Egyptians, of whom alone, we believe, any doubt as +to their being implicated in the practice has been entertained. Thus Dr +Forster, in his Observations on Cook's Second Voyage, excepts them from +his remark that all the ancient nations sacrificed men, saying that where-ever +it is affirmed in old writers that these people were addicted to it, we +are to understand them as alluding to the Arabian shepherds, who at one +time subdued Egypt. Such <i>was</i> the opinion of the writer of this note, but +more attentive enquiry has induced him, in this instance, to disregard the +distinction. Diodorus Siculus and Plutarch, quoted by Dr Magee, mention +their sacrificing red-haired men at the tomb of Osiris; and from other +sources, it appears that they had a custom of sacrificing a virgin to the +river Nile, by flinging her into its stream. The Phoenicians, Canaanites, +Moabites, Ammonites, and other neighbouring people, were in the habit +of sacrificing their children to their idols, especially Moloch, on certain, +calamities, and for various reasons. See on this head some of the commentators +on Scripture, as Ainsworth on Levit. 18th, and still more particularly, +consult Selecta Sacra Braunii, a work formerly referred to. The +Ethiopians, according to the Romance of Heliodorus, admitted to be good +authority as to manners, &c. sacrificed their children to the sun and +moon. The Scythians, as related in the curious description given of them +by Herodotus, in Melpom. 62, particularly honoured the god Mars, by +sacrificing to him every hundredth captive. This they did, he says, by +cutting +their throats, &c. The same author informs us of the Persians, that +they had a custom of burying persons alive, generally young ones it would +seem, in honour of the river Strymon, considered by them as a deity. Polym. +114. In this he is confirmed by Plutarch. Other writers, also, charge +the Persians with using human sacrifices, as is shewn by Dr Magee. The +same may be said of the Chinese and Indians, according to works mentioned +by that gentleman. The case of the latter people has been made +notorious by Dr Buchanan. With respect to the Grecian states in general, +we have the most indubitable evidence of the prevalence of supplicating +their gods by human sacrifices, when going against their enemies, as +we see done by the Otaheitans, and on other occasions. The Roman history, +in its early state especially, abounds in like examples, as every reader +will be prepared to prove. The practice was shockingly prevalent +amongst the Carthaginians and other inhabitants of Africa. The writer +above quoted, specifies the works which mention it, and has enumerated +the authorities for asserting the same of a great many other ancient people, +as the Getae, Leucadians, Goths, Gauls, Heruli, Britons, Germans; +besides the Arabians, Cretans, Cyprians, Rhodians, Phocians, and the inhabitants +of Chios, Lesbos, Tenedos, and Pella. The northern nations, +without exception, are chargeable with the same enormity. Of this, satisfactory +evidence has been adduced by Dr Magee from various authors, as +Mr Thorkelin in his Essay on the Slave Trade, Mallet, in his work on +Northern Antiquities, &c. And it is well known that the evil existed +amongst the Mexicans, Peruvians, and other people of America, in a degree +surpassing its magnitude in any other country. The perusal of the +present narrative, and of other accounts of voyages, will evince the continuance +of the practice throughout more recent people. On the whole +then, we assert, that the fact of the universality of human sacrifice amongst +the various nations of the world is perfectly well authenticated. Let us +next say a word or two respecting its origin and meaning. Here we shall +find it necessary to consider the origin and meaning of sacrifice in general, +as it is self-evident that the notion of sacrifice is previous to the selection +of the subjects for it, that of human beings differing only in degree of +worth or excellence from those of any other kind. What then could induce +mankind universally to imagine, that sacrifices of animals could be +agreeable to those beings whom they judged superior to themselves, and +the proper objects of religious adoration? Reason gives no sanction to the +practice; on the contrary, most positively condemns it, as unnecessary, +unjust, cruel, and therefore more likely to incur displeasure than to obtain +favour. Besides, it must always have been expensive, and very often dangerous, +so that we must entirely discard the notion of a sense of interest +having given occasion to it, unless we can prove, that some valuable consequence +was to result from it. This however cannot be done without +first shewing its acceptableness to the Being whose regard is thereby solicited. +There remain, perhaps, only two other motives which we can conceive +to have given origin to the custom, viz. some instinctive principle of +our nature by which we are led to it, independent of either reason +or a +sense of interest, as in the case of our appetites, and a positive injunction +or command to that effect by some being who has the requisite authority +over our conduct. The author so often alluded to, Dr Magee, who has +so profoundly considered this subject in his work on Atonement, &c. rejects +the former supposition, affirming that we have no natural instinct to +gratify, in spilling the blood of an innocent creature; and, as he has also +set aside the other two notions, of course, he adopts the latter as sufficient +for the solution of the question. The writer concurs in this opinion, +but at the same time, he thinks it of the utmost importance to observe, +that as the original injunction or command was assuredly subsequent to +the sense of moral delinquency, and was directed in the view of a relief to +the conscience of man, so the continuance of the practice, according to +any perversion of the primitive and consequently proper institution, is always +connected with, and in fact implies, the existence of a feeling of +personal demerit and danger. In other words, he conceives there is a +suitableness betwixt the operation of man's conscience and that effectual +remedy for its uneasiness to which the original institution of animal sacrifices +pointed. But it does not follow from this, that man's conscience or +reason, or any thing else within him, could ever have made the discovery +of the remedy. A sense of his need of it, would undoubtedly set him on +various efforts to relieve himself, but this, it is probable, would be as blind +a principle as the appetite of hunger, and as much would require aid from +an external power. Among the devices to which it might have recourse, +very possibly, the notion of giving up a darling object, ought to be included; +so it would appear, thought a king of Moab, spoken of by Micah the +prophet, chap. 6th, "Shall I give my first-born for my transgression," &c. +But even admitting this, we still see the primary difficulty remaining, viz. +what reason is there for imagining that the gift in any shape, and more +especially when slaughtered, will be accepted? We are driven then to +contemplate the revelation of the divine will as the only adequate explanation; +and this, it is evident, we must consider as having been handed +down by a corrupt process of tradition, among the various nations of the +earth. It would be easy to urge arguments in behalf of this opinion. But +already the matter has gone beyond common bounds, and the writer dare +not hazard another remark. All he shall do then, is to commend this interesting +topic to the reader's attention, and to request, that due allowances +be made for the omission of certain qualifications which are requisite +for some of the remarks now made, but which the limits of the note +could not allow to be inserted.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page35" id="page35"></a>[pg 35]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION III.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Conference with Towha.—Heevas described.—Omai and Oedidee +give Dinners.—Fireworks exhibited.—A remarkable +Present of Cloth.—Manner of preserving the Body of a +dead Chief.—Another human Sacrifice.—Riding on Horseback.—Otoo's +Attention to supply Provisions, and prevent +Thefts.—Animals given to him.—Etary, and the Deputies +of a Chief, have Audiences.—A mock Fight of two War +Canoes.—Naval Strength of these Islands.—Manner of +conducting a War.</i></blockquote> + +<p>The close of the very singular scene exhibited at the +<i>morai</i>, which I have faithfully described in the last chapter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page36" id="page36"></a>[pg 36]</span> +leaving us no other business in Attahooroo, we embarked +about noon, in order to return to Matavai; and, in our +way, visited Towha, who had remained on the little island +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page37" id="page37"></a>[pg 37]</span> +where we met him the day before. Some conversation +passed between Otoo and him, on the present posture of +public affairs; and then the latter solicited me once more +to join them in their war against Eimeo. By my positive +refusal I entirely lost the good graces of this chief.</p> + +<p>Before we parted, he asked us if the solemnity at which +we had been present answered our expectations; what opinion +we had of its efficacy; and whether we performed +such acts of worship in our own country? During the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page38" id="page38"></a>[pg 38]</span> +celebration of the horrid ceremony, we had preserved a profound +silence; but as soon as it was closed, had made no +scruple in expressing our sentiments very freely about it to +Otoo, and those who attended him; of course, therefore, +I did not conceal my detestation of it in this conversation +with Towha. Besides the cruelty of the bloody custom, I +strongly urged the unreasonableness of it; telling the chief, +that such a sacrifice, far from making the <i>Eatooa</i> propitious +to their nation, as they ignorantly believed, would be +the means of drawing down his vengeance; and that, from +this very circumstance, I took upon me to judge, that their +intended expedition against Maheine would be unsuccessful. +This was venturing pretty far upon conjecture; but +still, I thought, that there was little danger of being mistaken. +For I found, that there were three parties in the +island, with regard to this war; one extremely violent for +it; another perfectly indifferent about the matter; and the +third openly declaring themselves friends to Maheine and +his cause. Under these circumstances, of disunion distracting +their councils, it was not likely that such a plan of +military operations would be settled as could insure even a +probability of success. In conveying our sentiments to +Towha, on the subject of the late sacrifice, Omai was made +use of as our interpreter; and he entered into our arguments +with so much spirit, that the chief seemed to be in +great wrath; especially when he was told, that if he had +put a man to death in England, as he had done here, his +rank would not have protected him from being hanged +for it. Upon this, he exclaimed, <i>maeno</i>! <i>maeno</i>! [vile! +vile!] and would not hear another word. During this debate, +many of the natives were present, chiefly the attendants +and servants of Towha himself; and when Omai began +to explain the punishment that would be inflicted in +England, upon the greatest man, if he killed the meanest +servant, they seemed to listen with great attention; and +were probably of a different opinion from that of their master +on this subject.</p> + +<p>After leaving Towha, we proceeded to Oparre, where +Otoo pressed us to spend the night. We landed in the +evening; and, on our road to his house, had an opportunity +of observing in what manner these people amuse themselves +in their private <i>heevas</i>. About an hundred of them +were found sitting in a house; and in the midst of them +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page39" id="page39"></a>[pg 39]</span> +were two women, with an old man behind each of them +beating very gently upon a drum; and the women at intervals +singing in a softer manner than I ever heard at +their other diversions. The assembly listened with great +attention; and were seemingly almost absorbed in the +pleasure the music gave them; for few took any notice of +us, and the performers never once stopped. It was almost +dark before we reached Otoo's house, where we were entertained +with one of their public <i>heevas</i>, or plays, in which +his three sisters appeared as the principal characters. This +was what they call a <i>heeva raä</i>, which is of such a nature, +that nobody is to enter the house or area where it is exhibited. +When the royal sisters are the performers, this is +always the case. Their dress, on this occasion, was truly +picturesque and elegant; and they acquitted themselves, +in their parts, in a very distinguished manner; though +some comic interludes, performed by four men seemed to +yield greater pleasure to the audience, which was numerous. +The next morning we proceeded to Matavai, leaving +Otoo at Oparre; but his mother, sisters, and several other +women attended me on board, and Otoo himself followed +soon after.</p> + +<p>While Otoo and I were absent from the ships, they had +been but sparingly supplied with fruit, and had few visitors. +After our return, we again overflowed with provisions and +with company.</p> + +<p>On the 4th, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who +gave excellent fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, and puddings. +After dinner, I attended Otoo, who had been one +of the party, back to his house, where I found all his servants +very busy getting a quantity of provisions ready for +me. Amongst other articles, there was a large hog, which +they killed in my presence. The entrails were divided into +eleven portions, in such a manner that each of them contained +a bit of every thing. These portions were distributed +to the servants, and some dressed theirs in the same +oven with the hog, while others carried off, undressed, +what had come to their share. There was also a large pudding, +the whole process in making which, I saw. It was +composed of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm or +pandanus nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and +baked by itself. A quantity of juice, expressed from cocoa-nut +kernels, was put into a large tray or wooden vessel. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page40" id="page40"></a>[pg 40]</span> +The other articles, hot from the oven, were deposited in +this vessel; and a few hot stones were also put in to make +the contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks +to stir the several ingredients, till they were incorporated +one with another, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned +to oil; so that the whole mass, at last, became of the +consistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these puddings +are excellent; and few that we make in England equal +them. I seldom or never dined without one when I could +get it, which was not always the case. Otoo's hog being +baked, and the pudding, which I have described, being +made, they, together with two living hogs, and a quantity +of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe, and +sent on board my ship, followed by myself, and all the +royal family.</p> + +<p>The following evening, a young ram, of the Cape breed, +that had been lambed, and with great care brought up on +board the ship, was killed by a dog. Incidents are of more +or less consequence, as connected with situation. In our +present situation, desirous as I was to propagate this useful +race amongst these islands, the loss of the ram was a serious +misfortune; as it was the only one I had of that +breed; and I had only one of the English breed left.</p> + +<p>In the evening of the 7th, we played off some fireworks +before a great concourse of people. Some were highly entertained +with the exhibition; but by far the greater number +of spectators were terribly frightened; insomuch, that +it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to keep +together to see the end of the shew. A table-rocket was +the last. It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole +crowd in a moment; even the most resolute among them +fled with precipitation.</p> + +<p>The next day, a party of us dined with our former ship-mate, +Oedidee, on fish and pork. The hog weighed about +thirty pounds; and it may be worth mentioning, that it +was alive, dressed, and brought upon the table within the +hour. We had but just dined, when Otoo came and asked +me if my belly was full. On my answering in the affirmative, +he said, "Then, come along with me." I accordingly +went with him to his father's, where I found some people +employed in dressing two girls with a prodigious quantity +of fine cloth, after a very singular fashion: The one end +of each piece of cloth, of which there were a good many, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page41" id="page41"></a>[pg 41]</span> +was held up over the heads of the girls, while the remainder +was wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits; +then the upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds +to the ground, over the other, so as to bear some resemblance +to a circular hoop-petticoat. Afterward, round the +outside of all, were wrapped several pieces of differently-coloured +cloth, which considerably increased the size; so +that it was not less than five or six yards in circuit, and the +weight of this singular attire was as much as the poor girls +could support. To each were hang two <i>taames</i>, or breast-plates, +by way of enriching the whole, and giving it a picturesque +appearance. Thus equipped, they were conducted +on board the ship, together with several hogs, and a +quantity of fruit, which, with the cloth, was a present to +me from Otoo's father. Persons of either sex, dressed in +this manner, are called <i>atee</i>; but, I believe, it is never practised, +except when large presents of cloth are to be made. +At least, I never saw it practised upon any other occasion; +nor, indeed, had I ever such a present before; but both +Captain Clerke and I had cloth given to us afterward, thus +wrapped round the bearers. The next day, I had a present +of five hogs and some fruit from Otoo; and one hog and +some fruit from each of his sisters. Nor were other provisions +wanting. For two or three days, great quantities of +mackerel had been caught by the natives, within the reef, +in seines; some of which they brought to the ships and +tents and sold.</p> + +<p>Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants, by a +succession of presents, than he was to contribute to our +amusement, by a succession of diversions. A party of us +having gone down to Oparre on the 10th, he treated us +with what may be called a play. His three sisters were the +actresses; and the dresses that they appeared in were new +and elegant; that is, more so than we had usually met +with at any of these islands. But the principal object I had +in view, this day, in going to Oparre, was to take a view of +an embalmed corpse, which some of our gentlemen had +happened to meet with at that place, near the residence of +Otoo. On enquiry, I found it to be the remains of Tee, a +chief well known to me when I was at this island during +my last voyage. It was lying in a <i>toopapaoo</i>, more elegantly +constructed than their common ones, and in all respects +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page42" id="page42"></a>[pg 42]</span> +similar to that lately seen by us at Oheitepeha, in which +the remains of Waheiadooa are deposited, embalmed in +the same manner. When we arrived at the place, the body +was under cover, and wrapped up in cloth within the <i>toopapaoo</i>; +but, at my desire, the man who had the care of it, +brought it out, and laid it upon a kind of bier, in such a +manner, that we had as full a view of it as we could wish; +but we were not allowed to go within the pales that enclosed +the <i>toopapaoo</i>. After he had thus exhibited the corpse, +he hung the place with mats and cloth, so disposed as to +produce a very pretty effect. We found the body not only +entire in every part; but, what surprised us much more, +was, that putrefaction seemed scarcely to be begun, as +there was not the least disagreeable smell proceeding from +it; though the climate is one of the hottest, and Tee had +been dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration +that had happened, was a shrinking of the muscular +parts and eyes; but the hair and nails were in their original +state, and still adhered firmly; and the several joints +were quite pliable, or in that kind of relaxed state which +happens to persons who faint suddenly. Such were Mr Anderson's +remarks to me, who also told me, that on his enquiring +into the method of effecting this preservation of +their dead bodies, he had been informed, that, soon after +their death, they are disembowlled, by drawing the intestines, +and other <i>viscera</i>, out at the <i>anus</i>; and the whole cavity +is then filled or stuffed with cloth, introduced through +the same part; that when any moisture appeared on the +skin, it was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterward +rubbed all over with a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut +oil; which, being frequently repeated, preserved them +a great many months; but that, at last, they gradually +moulder away. This was the information Mr Anderson received; +for my own part, I could not learn any more about +their mode of operation than what Omai told me, who said, +that they made use of the juice of a plant which grows +amongst the mountains, of cocoa-nut oil, and of frequent +washing with sea-water. I was also told, that the bodies of +all their great men, who die a natural death, are preserved +in this manner; and that they expose them to public view +for a very considerable time after. At first, they are laid +out every day, when it does not rain; afterward, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page43" id="page43"></a>[pg 43]</span> +intervals become greater and greater; and, at last, they are seldom +to be seen.<a id="footnotetag8" name="footnotetag8"></a><a href="#footnote8"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>In the evening we returned from Oparre, where we left +Otoo, and all the royal family; and I saw none of them till +the 12th; when all, but the chief himself, paid me a visit. +He, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, to assist, this +day, at another human sacrifice, which the chief of Tiaraboo +had sent thither to be offered up at the <i>morai</i>. This +second instance, within the course of a few days, was too +melancholy a proof how numerous the victims of this +bloody superstition are amongst this humane people. I +would have been present at this sacrifice too, had I known +of it in time; for now it was too late. From the very same +cause, I missed being present at a public transaction, which +had passed at Oparre the preceding day, when Otoo, with +all the solemnities observed on such occasions, restored to +the friends and followers of the late king Tootaha, the +lands and possessions which had been withheld from them, +ever since his death. Probably, the new sacrifice was the +concluding ceremony of what may be called the reversal +of attainder.</p> + +<p>The following evening, Otoo returned from exercising +this most disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign; and +the next day, being now honoured with his company, Captain +Clerke and I, mounted on horseback, took a ride +round the plain of Matavai, to the very great surprise of a +great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing +upon us with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs. +Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this, attempted +to get on horseback; but he had as often been +thrown off, before he could contrive to seat himself; so +that this was the first time they had seen any body ride a +horse. What Captain Clerke and I began, was, after this, +repeated every day, while we staid, by one or another of +our people. And yet the curiosity of the natives continued +still unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these +animals, after they had seen the use that was made of +them; and, as far as I could judge, they conveyed to them +a better idea of the greatness of other nations, than all the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page44" id="page44"></a>[pg 44]</span> +other novelties put together that their European visitors +had carried amongst them. Both the horse and mare were +in good case, and looked extremely well.</p> + +<p>The next day, Etary, or Olla, the god of Bolabola, who +had, for several days past, been in the neighbourhood of +Matavai, removed to Oparre, attended by several sailing +canoes. We were told that Otoo did not approve of his being +so near our station, where his people could more easily +invade our property. I must do Otoo the justice to say, +that he took every method prudence could suggest to prevent +thefts and robberies; and it was more owing to his +regulations, than to our own circumspection, that so few +were committed. He had taken care to erect a little house +or two, on the other side of the river, behind our post; and +two others, close to our tents, on the bank between the river +and the sea. In all these places some of his own people +constantly kept watch; and his father generally resided +on Matavai point; so that we were, in a manner, surrounded +by them. Thus stationed, they not only guarded us in +the night from thieves, but could observe every thing that +passed in the day; and were ready to collect contributions +from such girls as had private connections with our people; +which was generally done every morning. So that the measures +adopted by him to secure our safety, at the same +time served the more essential purpose of enlarging his +own profits.</p> + +<p>Otoo informing me that his presence was necessary at +Oparre, where he was to give audience to the great personage +from Bolabola; and asking me to accompany him, +I readily consented, in hopes of meeting with something +worth our notice. Accordingly I went with him, in the +morning of the 16th, attended by Mr Anderson. Nothing, +however, occurred on this occasion that was either interesting +or curious. We saw Etary and his followers present +some coarse cloth and hogs to Otoo; and each article was +delivered with some ceremony, and a set speech. After +this, they, and some other chiefs, held a consultation about +the expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at first, seemed to disapprove +of it; but, at last, his objections were over-ruled. +Indeed, it appeared next day, that it was too late to deliberate +about this measure; and that Towha, Potatou, and +another chief, had already gone upon the expedition with +the fleet of Attahooroo. For a messenger arrived in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page45" id="page45"></a>[pg 45]</span> +evening, with intelligence that they had reached Eimeo, +and that there had been some skirmishes, without much +loss or advantage on either side.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 18th, Mr Anderson, myself, and +Omai, went again with Otoo to Oparre, and took with us +the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, consisting +of an English ram and ewe, and three Cape ewes, +all of which I gave to Otoo. As all the three cows had taken +the bull, I thought I might venture to divide them, +and carry some to Ulieta. With this view, I had them +brought before us; and proposed to Etary, that if he would +leave his bull with Otoo, he should have mine, and one of +the three cows; adding, that I would carry them for him +to Ulieta; for I was afraid to remove the Spanish bull, lest +some accident should happen to him, as he was a bulky, +spirited beast. To this proposal of mine, Etary, at first, +made some objections; but, at last, agreed to it; partly +through the persuasion of Omai. However, just as the +cattle were putting into the boat, one of Etary's followers +valiantly opposed any exchange whatever being made. +Finding this, and suspecting that Etary had only consented +to the proposed arrangement, for the present moment, +to please me; and that, after I was gone, he might take +away his bull, and then Otoo would not have one, I thought +it best to drop the idea of an exchange, as it could not be +made with the mutual consent of both parties; and finally +determined to leave them all with Otoo, strictly enjoining +him never to suffer them to be removed from Oparre, not +even the Spanish bull, nor any of the sheep, till he should +get a stock of young ones; which he might then dispose of +to his friends, and send to the neighbouring islands.</p> + +<p>This being settled, we left Etary and his party to ruminate +upon their folly, and attended Otoo to another place +hard by, where we found the servants of a chief, whose +name I forgot to ask, waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, +as a present from their master to the sovereign. These +were delivered with the usual ceremonies, and with an harangue +in form, in which the speaker, in his master's name, +enquired after the health of Otoo, and of all the principal +people about him. This compliment was echoed back in +the name of Otoo, by one of his ministers; and then the +dispute with Eimeo was discussed, with many arguments +for and against it. The deputies of this chief were for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page46" id="page46"></a>[pg 46]</span> +prosecuting the war with vigour, and advised Otoo to offer a +human sacrifice. On the other hand, a chief, who was in +constant attendance on Otoo's person, opposed it, seemingly +with great strength of argument. This confirmed me +in the opinion, that Otoo himself never entered heartily +into the spirit of this war. He now received repeated messages +from Towha, strongly soliciting him to hasten to his +assistance. We were told, that his fleet was, in a manner, +surrounded by that of Maheine; but that neither the one +nor the other durst hazard an engagement.</p> + +<p>After dining with Otoo, we returned to Matavai, leaving +him at Oparre. This day, and also the 19th, we were very +sparingly supplied with fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and +his brother, who had attached himself to Captain Clerke, +came from Oparre, between nine and ten o'clock in the +evening, with a large supply for both ships. This marked +his humane attention more strongly than any thing he had +hitherto done for us. The next day, all the royal family +came with presents; so that our wants were not only relieved, +but we had more provisions than we could consume.</p> + +<p>Having got all our water on board, the ships being +caulked, the rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, +I began to think of leaving the island, that I might +have sufficient time to spare for visiting the others in this +neighbourhood. With this view, we removed from the shore +our observatories and instruments, and bent the sails. +Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to acquaint +me, that all the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other +districts adjoining, were going to Oparre to join those belonging +to that part of the island; and that there would +be a general review there. Soon after, the squadron of Matavai +was all in motion; and, after parading awhile about +the bay, assembled ashore, near the middle of it. I now +went in my boat to take a view of them.</p> + +<p>Of those with stages, on which they fight, or what they +call their war-canoes, there were about sixty, with near as +many more of a smaller size. I was ready to have attended +them to Oparre; but, soon after, a resolution was taken +by the chiefs, that they should not move till the next day. +I looked upon this to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded +me a good opportunity to get some insight into their manner +of fighting. With this view, I expressed my wish to +Otoo, that he would order some of them to go through the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page47" id="page47"></a>[pg 47]</span> +necessary manoeuvres. Two were accordingly ordered out +into the bay; in one of which, Otoo, Mr King, and myself, +embarked; and Omai went on board the other. When +we had got sufficient sea-room, we faced, and advanced +upon each other, and retreated by turns, as quick as our +rowers could paddle. During this, the warriors on the +stages flourished their weapons, and played a hundred antic +tricks, which could answer no other end, in my judgment, +than to work up their passions, and prepare them +for fighting. Otoo stood by the side of our stage, and gave +the necessary orders, when to advance, and when to retreat. +In this, great judgment and a quick eye, combined together +seemed requisite, to seize every advantage that might +offer, and to avoid giving any advantage to the adversary. +At last, after advancing and retreating to and from each +other, at least a dozen of times, the two canoes closed, head +to head, or stage to stage; and, after a short conflict, the +troops on our stage were supposed to be all killed, and we +were boarded by Omai and his associates. At that very +instant, Otoo, and all our paddlers leaped over-board, as if +reduced to the necessity of endeavouring to save their lives +by swimming.</p> + +<p>If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval +engagements are not always conducted in this manner. +He told me, that they sometimes begin with lashing the +two vessels together, head to head, and then fight till all +the warriors are killed, on one side or the other. But this +close combat, I apprehend, is never practised, but when +they are determined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the +other must happen; for all agree that they never give +quarter, unless it be to reserve their prisoners for a more +cruel death the next day.</p> + +<p>The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in +their navies. I never heard of a general engagement on +land; and all their decisive battles are fought on the water. +If the time and place of conflict are fixed upon by +both parties, the preceding day and night are spent in +diversions and feasting. Toward morning, they launch the +canoes, put every thing in order, and, with the day, begin +the battle; the fate of which generally decides the dispute. +The vanquished save themselves by a precipitate flight; +and such as reach the shore, fly with their friends to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page48" id="page48"></a>[pg 48]</span> +mountains; for the victors, while their fury lasts, spare neither +the aged, nor women, nor children. The next day, +they assemble at the <i>morai</i>, to return thanks to the <i>Eatooa</i> +for the victory, and to offer up the slain as sacrifices, and +the prisoners also, if they have any. After this a treaty is +set on foot; and the conquerors, for the most part, obtain +their own terms; by which, particular districts of land, +and sometimes whole islands, change their owners. Omai +told us, that he was once taken a prisoner by the men of +Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he and some +others would have been put to death the next day, if they +had not found means to escape in the night.</p> + +<p>As soon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his +suit of armour, mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and +was paddled all along the shore of the bay; so that every +one had a full view of him. His coat of mail did not draw +the attention of his countrymen so much as might have +been expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of +it before; and there were others, again, who had taken +such a dislike to Omai, from his imprudent conduct at this +place, that they would hardly look at any thing, however +singular, that was exhibited by him.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote8" name="footnote8"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag8"> (return) </a><p>The method of embalming, above described, is very different from +that practised among the Egyptians and other ancient people. For an account +of the latter, the reader may turn to Beloe's Herodotus, vol. i. +where observations are collected from several authors.—E. +</p></blockquote> + +<h3>SECTION IV.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>The Day of Sailing fixed.—Peace made with Eimeo.—Debates +about it, and Otoo's Conduct blamed.—A Solemnity +at the Morai on the Occasion, described by Mr King.—Observations +upon it.—Instance of Otoo's Art.—Omai's War-Canoe, +and Remarks upon his Behaviour.—Otoo's Present, +and Message to the King of Great Britain.—Reflections on +our Manner of Traffic, and on the good Treatment we met +with at Otaheite.—Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards.—Their +Fictions to depreciate the English.—Wishes +expressed that no Settlement may be made.—Omai's Jealousy +of another Traveller.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Early in the morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father +came on board, to know when I proposed sailing. For, +having been informed that there was a good harbour at +Eimeo, I had told them that I should visit that island on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page49" id="page49"></a>[pg 49]</span> +my way to Huaheine; and they were desirous of taking a +passage with me, and of their fleet sailing, at the time, to +reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I +left it to them to name the day; and the Wednesday following +was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, +his father, mother, and, in short, the whole family. These +points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately +for Oparre, where all the fleet, fitted out for the expedition, +was to assemble this day, and to be reviewed.</p> + +<p>I had but just time to get into my boat, when news was +brought, that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, +and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected +event made all further proceedings, in the military +way, quite unnecessary; and the war-canoes, instead of +rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective +districts. This alteration, however, did not hinder +me from following Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr +King and Omai. Soon after our arrival, and while dinner +was preparing, a messenger arrived from Eimeo, and related +the conditions of the peace, or rather of the truce, it +being only for a limited time. The terms were disadvantageous +to Otaheite; and much blame was thrown upon +Otoo, whose delay, in sending reinforcements, had obliged +Towha to submit to a disgraceful accommodation. It was +even currently reported, that Towha, resenting his not being +supported, had declared, that, as soon as I should leave +the island, he would join his forces to those of Tiaraboo, +and attack Otoo at Matavai, or Oparre. This called upon +me to declare, in the most public manner, that I was determined +to espouse the interest of my friend against any +such combination; and that whoever presumed to attack +him, should feel the weight of my heavy displeasure, when +I returned again to their island. My declaration, probably, +had the desired effect; and, if Towha had any such +hostile intention at first, we soon heard no more of the report. +Whappai, Otoo's father, highly disapproved of the +peace, and blamed Towha very much for concluding it. +This sensible old man wisely judged, that my going down +with them to Eimeo must have been of singular service to +their cause, though I should take no other part whatever in +the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built all his arguments, +and maintained, that Otoo had acted properly by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page50" id="page50"></a>[pg 50]</span> +waiting for me; though this had prevented his giving assistance +to Towha so soon as he expected.</p> + +<p>Our debates at Oparre, on this subject, were hardly ended, +before a messenger arrived from Towha, desiring Otoo's +attendance, the next day, at the <i>morai</i> in Attahooroo, to +give thanks to the gods for the peace he had concluded; +at least, such was Omai's account to me of the object of +this solemnity. I was asked to go; but being much out of +order, was obliged to decline it. Desirous, however, of +knowing what ceremonies might be observed on so memorable +an occasion, I sent Mr King and Omai, and returned +on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three +sisters, and eight more women. At first, I thought that +this numerous train of females came into my boat with no +other view than to get a passage to Matavai. But when we +arrived at the ship, they told me, they intended passing the +night on board, for the express purpose of undertaking the +cure of the disorder I complained of; which was a pain of +the rheumatic kind, extending from the hip to the foot. I +accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them upon +the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. +I was desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then, as +many of them as could get round me, began to squeeze me +with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly +on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my +bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In +short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an +hour, I was glad to get away from them. However, the +operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me +to submit to another rubbing-down before I went to bed; +and it was so effectual, that I found myself pretty easy all +the night after. My female physicians repeated their prescription +the next morning, before they went ashore, and +again, in the evening, when they returned on board; after +which, I found the pains entirely removed; and the cure +being perfected, they took their leave of me the following +morning. This they call <i>romee</i>; an operation which, in +my opinion, far exceeds the flesh brush, or any thing of the +kind that we make use of externally. It is universally practised +amongst these islanders; being sometimes performed +by the men, but more generally by the women. If, at any +time, one appears languid and tired, and sits down by any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page51" id="page51"></a>[pg 51]</span> +of them, they immediately begin to practise the <i>romee</i> upon +his legs; and I have always found it to have an exceedingly +good effect.<a id="footnotetag9" name="footnotetag9"></a><a href="#footnote9"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>In the morning of the 25th, Otoo, Mr King, and Omai, +returned from Attahooroo; and Mr King gave me the following +account of what he had seen:</p> + +<p>"Soon after you left me, a second messenger came from +Towha to Otoo, with a plantain-tree. It was sun-set when +we embarked in a canoe and left Oparre. About nine +o'clock we landed at Tettaha, at that extremity which +joins to Attahooroo. Before we landed, the people called +to us from the shore; probably, to tell us that Towha was +there. The meeting of Otoo and this chief, I expected, +would afford some incident worthy of observation. Otoo, +and his attendants, went and seated themselves on the +beach, close to the canoe in which Towha was. He was +then asleep; but his servants having awakened him, and +mentioning Otoo's name, immediately a plantain-tree and +a dog were laid at Otoo's feet; and many of Towha's people +came and talked with him, as I conceived, about their +expedition to Eimeo. After I had, for some time, remained +seated close to Otoo, Towha neither stirring from his canoe, +nor holding any conversation with us, I went to him. He +asked me if <i>Toote</i> was angry with him. I answered, No: +that he was his <i>taio</i>; and that he had ordered me to go to +Attahooroo to tell him so. Omai now had a long conversation +with this chief; but I could gather no information +of any kind from him. On my returning to Otoo, he seemed +desirous that I should go to eat, and then to sleep. Accordingly, +Omai and I left him. On questioning Omai, he +said, the reason of Towha's not stirring from his canoe, was +his being lame; but that, presently, Otoo and he would +converse together in private. This seemed true; for in a +little time, those we left with Otoo came to us; and, about +ten minutes after, Otoo himself arrived, and we all went to +sleep in his canoe.</p> + +<p>"The next morning, the <i>ava</i> was in great plenty. One +man drank so much that he lost his senses. I should have +supposed him to be in a fit, from the convulsions that agitated +him. Two men held him, and kept plucking off his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page52" id="page52"></a>[pg 52]</span> +hair by the roots. I left this spectacle to see another that +was more affecting. This was the meeting of Towha and +his wife, and a young girl, whom I understood to be his +daughter. After the ceremony of cutting their heads, and +discharging a tolerable quantity of blood and tears, they +washed, embraced the chief, and seemed unconcerned. +But the young girl's sufferings were not yet come to an end. +Terridiri<a id="footnotetag10" name="footnotetag10"></a><a href="#footnote10"><sup>2</sup></a> arrived; and she went, with great composure, to +repeat the same ceremonies to him, which she had just +performed on meeting her father. Towha had brought a +large war-canoe from Eimeo. I enquired if he had killed +the people belonging to her; and was told, that there was +no man in her when she was captured.</p> + +<p>"We left Tettaha about ten or eleven o'clock, and landed +close to the <i>morai</i> of Attahooroo a little after noon. +There lay three canoes hauled upon the beach, opposite +the <i>morai</i>, with three hogs exposed in each: their sheds, or +awnings, had something under them which I could not discern. +We expected the solemnity to be performed the +same afternoon; but as neither Towha nor Potatou had +joined us, nothing was done.</p> + +<p>"A chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a +plantain-tree, and placed them at Otoo's feet. They talked +some time together; and the Eimeo chief often repeating +the words, <i>Warry, warry</i>, 'false,' I supposed that Otoo was +relating to him what he had heard, and that the other denied +it.</p> + +<p>"The next day (Wednesday) Towha and Potatou, with +about eight large canoes, arrived, and landed near the <i>morai</i>. +Many plantain-trees were brought, on the part of different +chiefs to Otoo. Towha did not stir from his canoe. +The ceremony began by the principal priest bringing out +the <i>maro</i> wrapped up, and a bundle shaped like a large sugar-loaf. +These were placed at the head of what I understood +to be a grave. Then three priests came, and sat +down opposite, that is, at the other end of the grave; +bringing with them a plantain-tree, the branch of some +other tree, and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut +tree.</p> + +<p>"The priests, with these things in their hands, separately +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page53" id="page53"></a>[pg 53]</span> +repeated sentences; and, at intervals, two, and sometime +all three, sung a melancholy ditty, little attended to by the +people. This praying and singing continued for an hour. +Then, after a short prayer, the principal priest uncovered +the <i>maro</i>; and Otoo rose up, and wrapped it about him, +holding, at the same time, in his hand, a cap or bonnet, +composed of the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird, +mixed with other feathers of a dark colour. He stood in +the middle space, facing the three priests, who continued +their prayers for about ten minutes; when a man, starting +from the crowd, said something which ended with the +word <i>heiva!</i> and the crowd echoed back to him, three +times, <i>Earee!</i> This, as I had been told before, was the +principal part of the solemnity.</p> + +<p>"The company now moved to the opposite side of the +great pile of stones, where is, what they call, the king's <i>morai</i>, +which is not unlike a large grave. Here the same ceremony +was performed over again, and ended in three +cheers. The <i>maro</i> was now wrapped up, and increased in +its splendour by the addition of a small piece of red feathers, +which one of the priests gave Otoo when he had it +on, and which he stuck into it.</p> + +<p>"From this place, the people went to a large hut, close +by the <i>morai</i>, where they seated themselves in much greater +order than is usual among them. A man of Tiaraboo then +made an oration, which lasted about ten minutes. He was +followed by an Attahooroo man; afterward Potatou spoke +with much greater fluency and grace than any of them; +for, in general, they spoke in short broken sentences, with +a motion of the hand that was rather awkward. Tooteo, +Otoo's orator, spoke next; and, after him, a man from +Eimeo. Two or three more speeches were made; but not +much attended to. Omai told me, that the speeches declared, +that they should not fight, but all be friends. As +many of the speakers expressed themselves with warmth, +possibly there were some recriminations and protestations +of their good intentions. In the midst of their speaking, a +man of Attahooroo got up, with a sling fastened to his +waist, and a large stone placed upon his shoulder. After +parading near a quarter of an hour, in the open space, repeating +something in a singing tone, he threw the stone +down. This stone, and a plantain-tree that lay at Otoo's +feet, were, after the speeches ended, carried to the <i>morai</i>: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page54" id="page54"></a>[pg 54]</span> +and one of the priests, and Otoo with him, said something +upon the occasion.</p> + +<p>"On our return to Oparre, the sea-breeze having set in, +we were obliged to land; and had a pleasant walk through +almost the whole extent of Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, +with two bundles of dried leaves suspended upon it, marked +the boundary of the two districts. The man who had performed +the ceremony of the stone and sling came with us. +With him, Otoo's father had a long conversation. He +seemed very angry. I understood, he was enraged at the +part Towha had taken in the Eimeo business."</p> + +<p>From what I can judge of this solemnity, as thus described +by Mr King, it had not been wholly a thanksgiving, +as Omai told us, but rather a confirmation of the +treaty, or perhaps both. The grave, which Mr King speaks +of, seems to be the very spot where the celebration of the +rites began, when the human sacrifice, at which I was present, +was offered, and before which the victim was laid, after +being removed from the sea side. It is at this part of +the <i>morai</i> also that they first invest their kings with the +<i>maro</i>. Omai, who had been present when Otoo was made +king, described to me the whole ceremony, when we were +here; and I find it to be almost the same as this that Mr +King has now described, though we understood it to be +upon a very different occasion. The plantain-tree, so often +mentioned, is always the first thing introduced, not only in +all their religious ceremonies, but in all their debates, whether +of a public or private nature. It is also used on other +occasions; perhaps many more than we know of. While +Towha was at Eimeo, one or more messengers came from +him to Otoo every day. The messenger always came with +a young plantain-tree in his hand, which he laid down at +Otoo's feet, before he spoke a word; then seated himself +before him, and related what he was charged with. I have +seen two men in such high dispute that I expected they +would proceed to blows; yet, on one laying a plantain-tree +before the other, they have both become cool, and carried +on the argument without farther animosity. In short, it is, +upon all occasions, the olive-branch of these people.</p> + +<p>The war with Eimeo, and the solemn rites which were +the consequence of it, being thus finally closed, all our +friends paid us a visit on the 26th; and, as they knew that +we were upon the point of sailing, brought with them more +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page55" id="page55"></a>[pg 55]</span> +hogs than we could take off their hands. For, having no +salt left, to preserve any, we wanted no more than for present +use.</p> + +<p>The next day, I accompanied Otoo to Oparre; and, before +I left it, I looked at the cattle and poultry, which I had +consigned to my friend's care at that place. Every thing +was in a promising way, and properly attended to. Two +of the geese, and two of the ducks were sitting; but the +pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from +Otoo four goats; two of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, +where none had as yet been introduced; and the other +two I proposed to reserve for the use of any other islands I +might meet with in my passage to the north.</p> + +<p>A circumstance which I shall now mention of Otoo will +shew that these people are capable of much address and art +to gain their purposes. Amongst other things which, at +different times, I had given to this chief, was a spying-glass. +After having it in his possession two or three days, +tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no use to +him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him +that, as he had been his very good friend, he had got a +present for him which he knew would be agreeable. "But," +says Otoo, "you must not let <i>Toote</i> know it, because he +wants it, and I would not let him have it." He then put +the glass into Captain Clerke's hands; at the same time +assuring him that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke, +at first, declined accepting it; but Otoo insisted upon it, +and left it with him. Some days after, he put Captain +Clerke in mind of the glass, who, though he did not want +it, was yet desirous of obliging Otoo; and, thinking that a +few axes would be of more use at this island, produced four +to give him in return. Otoo no sooner saw this, than he +said, "<i>Toote</i> offered me five for it." "Well," says Captain +Clerke, "if that be the case, your friendship for me shall +not make you a loser, and you shall have six axes." These +he accepted; but desired again, that I might not be told +what he had done.</p> + +<p>Our friend Omai got one good thing, at this island, for +the many good things he gave away. This was a very fine +double-sailing canoe, completely equipped, and fit for the +sea. Some time before, I had made up for him a suit of +English colours; but he thought these too valuable to be +used at this time; and patched up a parcel of colours, such +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page56" id="page56"></a>[pg 56]</span> +as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, +which he spread on different parts of his vessel, all at the +same time; and drew together as many people to look at +her, as a man of war would, dressed, in an European port. +These streamers of Omai were a mixture of English, French, +Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European colours +that he had seen. When I was last at this island, I gave to +Otoo an English jack and pendant, and to Towha a pendant, +which I now found they had preserved with the +greatest care.</p> + +<p>Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of +cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater +plenty, but much better at Otaheite, than at any of the +Society Islands, insomuch that they are articles of trade. +Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, and so +much unlike himself, as he did in many instances, but for +his sister and brother-in-law, who, together with a few +more of their acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to +themselves, with no other view than to strip him of every +thing he had got. And they would, undoubtedly, have +succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop to it in +time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into +my possession. But even this would not have saved +Omai from ruin, if I had suffered these relations of his to +have gone with, or to have followed us to, his intended +place of settlement, Huaheine. This they had intended; +but I disappointed their farther views of plunder, by forbidding +them to shew themselves in that island, while I remained +in the neighbourhood; and they knew me too well +not to comply.</p> + +<p>On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me +that be had got a canoe, which he desired I would take +with me, and carry home, as a present from him to the +<i>Earee rahie no Pretane</i>; it being the only thing, he said, +that he could send worth his majesty's acceptance. I was +not a little pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude. +It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having +given him the least hint about it; and it shewed, that +he fully understood to whom he was indebted for the most +valuable presents that he had received. At first, I thought +that this canoe had been a model of one of their vessels of +war; but I soon found that it was a small <i>evaa</i>, about sixteen +feet long. It was double, and seemed to have been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page57" id="page57"></a>[pg 57]</span> +built for the purpose; and was decorated with all those +pieces of carved work which they usually fix upon their canoes. +As it was too large for me to take on board, I could +only thank him for his good intention; but it would have +pleased him much better if his present could have been +accepted.</p> + +<p>We were detained here some days longer than I expected, +by light breezes from the west, and calms by turns; so +that we could not get out of the bay. During this time, +the ships were crowded with our friends, and surrounded +by a multitude of canoes; for not one would leave the +place till we were gone. At length, at three o'clock in the +afternoon of the 29th, the wind came at east, and we +weighed anchor.</p> + +<p>As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of +Otoo, and to gratify the curiosity of his people, I fired seven +guns, loaded with shot; after which, all our friends, +except him, and two or three more, left us with such marks +of affection and grief, as sufficiently shewed how much +they regretted our departure. Otoo being desirous of seeing +the ship sail, I made a stretch out to sea, and then in +again; when be also bid us farewell, and went ashore in his +canoe.</p> + +<p>The frequent visits we had lately paid to this island, +seem to have created a full persuasion, that the intercourse +will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by +Otoo, to request, in his name, the <i>Earee rahie no Pretane</i> to +send him, by the next ships, red feathers, and the birds that +produce them; axes; half a dozen muskets, with powder +and shot; and by no means to forget horses.</p> + +<p>I have occasionally mentioned my receiving considerable +presents from Otoo, and the rest of the family, without specifying +what returns I made. It is customary for these people, +when they make a present, to let us know what they +expect in return; and we find it necessary to gratify them; +so that, what we get by way of present, comes dearer than +what we get by barter. But, as we were sometimes pressed +by occasional scarcity, we could have recourse to our friends +for a present, or supply, when we could not get our wants +relieved by any other method; and, therefore, upon the +whole, this way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as +to the natives. For the most part, I paid for each separate +article as I received it, except in my intercourse with Otoo. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page58" id="page58"></a>[pg 58]</span> +His presents generally came so fast upon me, that no account +was kept between us. Whatever he asked for, that +I could spare, he had whenever he asked for it; and I always +found him moderate in his demands.</p> + +<p>If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself at +Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as I did. For +there was not a probability of our being better or cheaper +supplied with refreshments at any other place than we continued +to be here, even at the time of our leaving it. Besides, +such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted +between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected +any where else; and it was a little extraordinary, that +this friendly intercourse had never once been suspended +by any untoward accident; nor had there been a theft +committed that deserves to be mentioned. Not that I believe +their morals, in this respect, to be much mended, but +am rather of opinion that their regularity of conduct was +owing to the fear the chiefs were under, of interrupting a +traffic which they might consider as the means of securing +to themselves a more considerable share of our commodities, +than could have been got by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, +this point I settled at the first interview with their +chiefs, after my arrival. For, observing the great plenty +that was in the island, and the eagerness of the natives to +possess our various articles of trade, I resolved to make the +most of these two favourable circumstances, and explained +myself, in the most decisive terms, that I would not suffer +them to rob us, as they had done upon many former occasions. +In this, Omai was of great use, as I instructed him +to point out to them the good consequences of their honest +conduct, and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to suffer +by deviating from it.</p> + +<p>It is not always in the power of the chiefs to prevent robberies; +they are frequently robbed themselves, and complain +of it as a great evil. Otoo left the most valuable +things he had from me in my possession, till the day before +we sailed; and the reason he gave for it was, that they +were no where so safe. Since the bringing in of new riches, +the inducements to pilfering must have increased. The +chiefs, sensible of this, are now extremely desirous of chests. +They seemed to set much value upon a few that the Spaniards +had left amongst them; and they were continually +asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page59" id="page59"></a>[pg 59]</span> +dimensions of which, according to his own directions, were eight +feet in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. +Locks and bolts were not a sufficient security; but it must +be large enough for two people to sleep upon, by way of +guarding it in the night.</p> + +<p>It will appear a little extraordinary that we, who had a +smattering of their language, and Omai, besides, for an interpreter, +could never get any clear account of the time +when the Spaniards arrived, how long they stayed, and +when they departed. The more we enquired into this matter, +the more we were convinced of the inability of most of +these people to remember, or note the time, when past +events happened; especially if it exceeded ten or twenty +months. It however appeared, by the date of the inscription +upon the cross, and by the information we received +from the most intelligent of the natives, that two ships arrived +at Oheitepeha in 1774, soon after I left Matavai, +which was in May, the same year. They brought with +them the house and live-stock before mentioned. Some +said that, after landing these things, and some men, they +sailed in quest of me, and returned in about ten days. But +I have some doubt of the truth of this, as they were never +seen either at Huaheine, or at Ulietea. The live-stock +they left here consisted of one bull, some goats, hogs, and +dogs, and the male of some other animal, which we afterward +found to be a ram, and, at this time, was at Bolabola, +whither the bull was also to have been transported.</p> + +<p>The hogs are of a large kind; have already greatly improved +the breed originally found by us upon the island; +and, at the time of our late arrival, were very numerous. +Goats are also in tolerable plenty, there being hardly a +chief of any note who has not got some. As to the dogs +that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three +sorts, I think they would have done the island a great deal +more service if they had hanged them all, instead of leaving +them upon it. It was to one of them that my young +ram fell a victim.</p> + +<p>When these ships left the island, four Spaniards remained +behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fourth +made himself very popular among the natives, who distinguish +him by the name of Mateema. He seems to have +been a person who had studied their language; or, at +least, to have spoken it so as to be understood; and to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page60" id="page60"></a>[pg 60]</span> +have taken uncommon pains to impress the minds of the +islanders with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of +the Spanish nation, and to make them think meanly of the +English. He even went so far as to assure them, that we +no longer existed as an independent nation; that <i>Pretane</i> +was only a small island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely +destroyed; and, for me, that they had met with me +at sea, and, with a few shot, had sent my ship, and every +soul in her, to the bottom; so that my visiting Otaheite, +at this time, was, of course, very unexpected. All this, +and many other improbable falsehoods, did this Spaniard +make these people believe. If Spain had no other views, +in this expedition, but to depreciate the English, they had +better have kept their ships at home; for my returning +again to Otaheite was considered as a complete confutation +of all that Mateema had said.</p> + +<p>With what design the priests stayed, we can only guess. +If it was to convert the natives to the catholic faith, they +have not succeeded in any one instance. But it does not +appear that they ever attempted it; for, if the natives are +to be believed, they never conversed with them, either on +this, or on any other subject. The priests resided constantly +in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, +visiting most parts of the island. At length, after he and +his companions had stayed ten months, two ships came to +Oheitepeha, took them on board, and sailed again in five +days. This hasty departure shews that, whatever design +the Spaniards might have had upon this island, they had +now laid it aside. And yet, as I was informed by Otoo, +and many others, before they went away, they would have +the natives believe that they still meant to return, and to +bring with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and +women who were to settle, live, and die on the island. +Otoo, when he told me this, added, that if the Spaniards +should return, he would not let them come to Matavai +Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the +idea pleased him; little thinking that the completion of it +would, at once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people +of their liberties. This shews with what facility a settlement +might be made at Otaheite, which, grateful as I +am for repeated good offices, I hope will never happen. +Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have benefitted +its inhabitants; but a permanent establishment amongst +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page61" id="page61"></a>[pg 61]</span> +them, conducted as most European establishments amongst +Indian nations have unfortunately been, would, I fear, +give them just cause to lament that our ships had ever +found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely that any measure +of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it +can neither serve the purposes of public ambition, nor of +private avarice; and, without such inducements, I may +pronounce that it will never be undertaken.<a id="footnotetag11" name="footnotetag11"></a><a href="#footnote11"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>I have already mentioned the visit that I had from one +of the two natives of this island, who had been carried by +the Spaniards to Lima. I never saw him afterward, which +I rather wondered at, as I had received him with uncommon +civility. I believe, however, that Omai had kept him +at a distance from me, by some rough usage; jealous that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page62" id="page62"></a>[pg 62]</span> +there should be another traveller upon the island who +might vie with himself. Our touching at Teneriffe was a +fortunate circumstance for Omai; as he prided himself in +having visited a place belonging to Spain as well as this +man. I did not meet with the other, who had returned +from Lima; but Captain Clerke, who had seen him, spoke +of him as a low fellow, and as a little out of his senses. His +own countrymen, I found, agreed in the same account of +him. In short, these two adventurers seemed to be held +in no esteem. They had not, indeed, been so fortunate as +to return home with such valuable acquisitions of property +as we had bestowed upon Omai; and, with the advantages +he reaped from his voyage to England, it must be his own +fault if he should sink into the same state of insignificance.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote9" name="footnote9"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag9"> (return) </a><p>See Captain Wallis's account of the same operation performed on +himself, and his first lieutenant, in this Collection, vol. xii. p. 197.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote10" name="footnote10"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag10"> (return) </a><p>Terridiri was Oberea's son. See an account of the royal family of +Otaheite, in this Collection, vol. xii. p. 482.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote11" name="footnote11"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag11"> (return) </a><p>We may have occasion hereafter to make mention of several +subsequent +visits to this island, on the part of our countrymen. It is evident, +that Captain Cook was far from being well pleased with the consequences +which had already resulted to its inhabitants from their intercourse with +Europeans. Unfortunately, it is impracticable to give a more agreeable +picture of the condition of the island as influenced by future visits. +Cook's solicitude, in behalf of these people, is extremely commendable, +and it is to this we must ascribe his opinion of the impolicy of attempting +settlements amongst them. Is it wonderful, that to a man of his humanity +and discernment, any other effect should seem likely to proceed from +the undertaking, than what would augment his concern that ever Otaheite +felt the necessity of being obliged to his countrymen? One motive alone, +perhaps, not contemplated by him in reasoning on the purposes which +might induce to such an attempt, gave some promise of compensating for +former evils, without being likely to entail others, which would still leave +the balance of good and bad consequences a subject of regret. We allude +to the <i>intentions</i> of the missionaries, who projected a settlement on the +island in 1796, &c. But the friends of humanity have not hitherto had +cause to rejoice at the amount of the new benefits conferred. The advocates +for such labours, indeed, require to arm themselves with patience, +unless they can satisfy themselves with the conviction of having <i>willed</i> a +good work. Besides, even they ought to anticipate the certainty, that, +were their intentions realized, intruders of very different principles, and +with very different motives, would speedily mar the fruits of their benevolence. +Such reflections, it may be said, are discouraging. What opinion, +then, ought we to entertain of the wisdom of labours, which had +been undertaken without a full view of obvious causes threatening their +ultimate failure? It would little alleviate the mortification of disappointment, +to exclaim, as is often done on such occasions, "Who could have +thought it?" But the most enlightened judges of such undertakings, will +not only advert to the probable occurrence of such mischief, but also be +well aware of the existence of <i>other untoward circumstances</i>, extremely +well calculated to render any fears of subsequent deterioration altogether +superfluous!—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION V.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Arrival at Eimeo.—Two Harbours there, and an Account of +them.—Visit from Maheine, Chief of the Island.—His Person +described.—A Goat stolen, and sent back with the Thief.—Another +Goat stolen, and secreted.—Measures taken on +the Occasion.—Expedition cross the Island.—Houses and +Canoes burnt.—The Goat delivered up, and Peace restored. +Some Account of the Island, &c.</i></blockquote> + +<p>As I did not give up my design of touching at Eimeo, +at day-break, in the morning of the 30th, after leaving +Otaheite, I stood for the north end of the island; the harbour +which I wished to examine being at that part of it. +Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, +had taken some necessary measures to shew us the place. +However, we were not without pilots, having several men +of Otaheite on board, and not a few women. Not caring +to trust entirely to these guides, I sent two boats to examine +the harbour; and, on their making the signal for +safe anchorage, we stood in with the ships, and anchored +close up to the head of the inlet, in ten fathoms water, over +a bottom of soft mud, and moored with a hawser fast to the +shore.</p> + +<p>This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page63" id="page63"></a>[pg 63]</span> +north side of the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or +Poonohoo. It runs in south, or south by east, between the +hills, above two miles. For security and goodness of its +bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour that I have met +with at any of the islands in this ocean; and it has this +advantage over most of them, that a ship can sail in and +out, with the reigning trade wind; so that the access and +recess are equally easy. There are several rivulets that fall +into it. The one, at the head, is so considerable as to admit +boats to go a quarter of a mile up, where we found the +water perfectly fresh. Its banks are covered with the <i>pooroo</i> +tree, as it is called by the natives, which makes good +firing, and which they set no value upon; so that wood +and water are to be got here with great facility.</p> + +<p>On the same side of the island, and about two miles to +the eastward, is the harbour of Parowroah, much larger +within than that of Taloo; but the entrance, or opening +in the reef (for the whole island is surrounded by a reef of +coral rock) is considerably narrower, and lies to leeward of +the harbour. These two defects are so striking, that the +harbour of Taloo must always have a decided preference, +It is a little extraordinary, that I should have been three +times at Otaheite before, and have once sent a boat to Eimeo, +and yet not know till now that there was a harbour +in it. On the contrary, I always understood there was not. +Whereas, there are not only the two above mentioned, but +one or two more on the south side of the island. But these +last are not so considerable as the two we have just described.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner anchored, than the ships were crowded +with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on +board; for they had nothing with them for the purposes +of barter. But, the next morning, this deficiency was supplied; +several canoes then arriving from more distant parts, +which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, +and a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, +nails, and beads; for red feathers were not so much +sought after here as at Otaheite. The ship being a good +deal pestered with rats, I hauled her within thirty yards of +the shore, as near as the depth of water would allow, and +made a path for them to get to the land, by fastening hawsers +to the trees. It is said, that this experiment has +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page64" id="page64"></a>[pg 64]</span> +sometimes succeeded; but, I believe, we got clear of very few, +if any, of the numerous tribe that haunted us.<a id="footnotetag12" name="footnotetag12"></a><a href="#footnote12"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the +island, paid me a visit. He approached the ship with great +caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on +board. Probably, he was under some apprehensions of mischief +from us, as friends of the Otaheitans; these people +not being able to comprehend how we can be friends with +any one, without adopting, at the same time, his cause +against his enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his +wife, who, as I was informed, is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite, +of whose death we had an account while we were at +this island. I made presents to both of them of such things +as they seemed to set the highest value upon; and, after a +stay of about half-an-hour, they went away. Not long after, +they returned with a large hog, which they meant as a +return to my present; but I made them another present to +the full value of it. After this they paid a visit to Captain +Clerke.</p> + +<p>This chief who, with a few followers, has made himself, +in a manner, independent of Otaheite, is between forty +and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather an +uncommon appearance in these islands at that age. He +wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to shew his +head. But whether they themselves considered this deficiency +of hair as a mark of disgrace, or whether they entertained +a notion of our considering it as such, I cannot +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page65" id="page65"></a>[pg 65]</span> +say. We judged that the latter supposition was the truth, +from this circumstance, that they had seen us shave the +head of one of their people whom we had caught stealing. +They therefore concluded, that this was the punishment +usually inflicted by us upon all thieves; and one or +two of our gentlemen, whose heads were not overburthened +with hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions +of being <i>tetos</i>.</p> + +<p>In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback, and +took a ride along the shore to the eastward. Our train was +not very numerous, as Omai had forbid the natives to follow +us; and many complied; the fear of giving offence +getting the better of their curiosity. Towha had stationed +his fleet in this harbour; and though the war lasted but a +few days, the marks of its devastation were every where to +be seen. The trees were stripped of their fruit; and all the +houses in the neighbourhood had been pulled down or +burnt.</p> + +<p>Having employed two or three days in getting up all our +spirit casks to tar their heads, which we found necessary, to +save them from the efforts of a small insect to destroy +them, we hauled the ship off into the stream, on the 6th, +n the morning, intending to put to sea the next day; but +an accident happened that prevented it, and gave me a +good deal of trouble. We had sent our goats ashore, in +the day-time, to graze, with two men to look after them; +notwithstanding which precaution, the natives had contrived +to steal one of them this evening. The loss of this +goat would have been of little consequence, if it had not +interfered with my views of stocking other islands with +these animals; but this being the case, it became necessary +to recover it, if possible. The next morning, we got intelligence +that it had been carried to Maheine, the chief, +who was at this time at Parowroah harbour. Two old men +offered to conduct any of my people, whom I might think +proper to send to him, to bring back the goat. Accordingly, +I dispatched them in a boat, charged with a threatening +message to Maheine, if the goat was not immediately +given up to me, and also the thief.</p> + +<p>It was only the day before that this chief had requested +me to give him two goats. But, as I could not spare them, +unless at the expense of other lands that might never have +another opportunity to get any, and had besides heard that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page66" id="page66"></a>[pg 66]</span> +there were already two upon this island, I did not gratify +him. However, to shew my inclination to assist his views +in this respect, I desired Tidooa, an Otaheite chief, who +was present, to beg Otoo, in my name, to send two of these +animals to Maheine; and, by way of insuring a compliance +with this request, I sent to Otoo, by this chief a large +piece of red feathers, equal to the value of the two goats +that I required. I expected that this arrangement would +have been satisfactory to Maheine and all the other chiefs +of the island; but the event shewed that I was mistaken.</p> + +<p>Not thinking that any one would dare to steal a second, +at the very time I was taking measures to recover the first, +the goats were put ashore again this morning; and, in the +evening, a boat was sent to bring them on board. As our +people were getting them into the boat, one was carried off +undiscovered. It being immediately missed, I made no +doubt of recovering it without much trouble, as there had +not been time to carry it to any considerable distance. +Ten or twelve of the natives set out soon after, different +ways, to bring it back, or to look for it; for not one of +them would own that it was stolen, but all tried to persuade +us that it had strayed into the woods; and indeed I +thought so myself. I was convinced to the contrary, however, +when I found that not one of those who went in pursuit +of it returned; so that their only view was to amuse +me till their prize was beyond my reach; and night coming +on, put a stop to all farther search. About this time the +boat returned with the other goat, bringing also one of the +men who had stolen it; the first instance of the kind that +I had met with amongst these islands.</p> + +<p>The next morning, I found that most of the inhabitants +in the neighbourhood had moved off; carrying with them +a corpse which lay on a <i>toopapaoo</i>, opposite the ship; and +that Maheine himself had retired to the most distant part +of the island. It seemed now no longer doubtful, that a +plan had been laid to steal what I had refused to give; +and that, though they had restored one, they were resolved +to keep the other, which was a she-goat, and big with +kid. I was equally fixed in my resolution that they should +not keep it. I therefore applied to the two old men who +had been instrumental in getting back the first. They told +me that this had been carried to Watea, a district on the +south side of the island, by Hamoa, the chief of that place; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page67" id="page67"></a>[pg 67]</span> +but that if I would send any body for it, it would be delivered +up. They offered to conduct some of my people +cross the island; but, on my learning from them that a +boat might go and return the same day, I sent one, with +two petty officers, Mr Roberts and Mr Shuttleworth; one +to remain with the boat, in case she could not get to the +place, while the other should go with the guides, and one +or two of our people.</p> + +<p>Late in the evening the boat returned; and the officers +informed me, that, after proceeding as far in the boat as +rocks and shoals would permit, Mr Shuttleworth, with two +marines, and one of the guides, landed and travelled to +Watea, to the house of Hamoa, where the people of the +place amused them for some time, by telling that the goat +would soon be brought, and pretended they had sent for +it. It however never came; and the approach of night +obliged Mr Shuttleworth to return to the boat without it.</p> + +<p>I was now very sorry that I had proceeded so far, as I +could not retreat with any tolerable credit, and without +giving encouragement to the people of the other islands +we had yet to visit, to rob us with impunity. I asked Omai +and the two old men what methods I should next take; +and they, without hesitation, advised me to go with a +party of men into the country, and shoot every soul I +should meet with. This bloody counsel I could not follow; +but I resolved to march a party of men cross the island; +and at day-break the next morning, set out with thirty-five +of my people, accompanied by one of the old men, by +Omai, and three or four of his attendants. At the same +time I ordered Lieutenant Williamson, with three armed +boats, round the western part of the island, to meet us.</p> + +<p>I had no sooner landed with my party, than the few natives, +who still remained in the neighbourhood, fled before +us. The first man that we met with upon our march run +some risk of his life; for Omai, the moment he saw him, +asked me if he should shoot him; so fully was he persuaded +that I was going to carry his advice into execution. I +immediately ordered both him and our guide to make it +known that I did not intend to hurt, much less to kill, a +single native. These glad tidings flew before us like lightning, +and stopped the flight of the inhabitants; so that no +one quitted his house, or employment, afterward.</p> + +<p>As we began to ascend the ridge of hills over which lay +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page68" id="page68"></a>[pg 68]</span> +our road, we got intelligence that the goat had been carried +that way before us; and, as we understood, could not +as yet have passed the hills; so that we marched up in +great silence, in hopes of surprising the party who were +bearing off the prize. But when we had got to the uppermost +plantation on the side of the ridge, the people there +told us, that what we were in search of had indeed been +kept there the first night, but had been carried the next +morning to Watea, by Hamoa. We then crossed the ridge +without making any further enquiry, till we came within +sight of Watea, where some people shewed us Hamoa's +house, and told us that the goat was there; so that I made +no doubt of getting it immediately upon my arrival. But +when I reached the house, to my very great surprise, the +few people we met with denied that they had ever seen it, +or knew any thing about it; even Hamoa himself came, +and made the same declaration.</p> + +<p>On our first coming to the place, I observed several men +running to and fro in the woods, with clubs and bundles of +darts in their hands; and Omai, who followed them, had +some, stones thrown at him; so that it seemed as if they +had intended to oppose any step I should take by force; +but on seeing my party was too strong, had dropped the design. +I was confirmed in this notion, by observing that +all their houses were empty. After getting a few of the +people of the place together, I desired Omai to expostulate +with them on the absurdity of the conduct they were +pursuing; and to tell them, that, from the testimony of +many on whom I could depend, I was well assured that the +goat was in their possession; and, therefore, insisted upon +its being delivered up, otherwise I would burn their houses +and canoes. But, notwithstanding all that I or Omai could +say, they continued to deny their having any knowledge +of it. The consequence was, that I set fire to six or eight +houses, which were presently consumed, with two or three +war-canoes that lay contiguous to them. This done, I +marched off to join the boats, which were about seven or +eight miles from us; and, in our way, we burnt six more +war-canoes, without any one attempting to oppose us; on +the contrary, many assisted, though probably more out of +fear than good-will. In one place, Omai, who had advanced +a little before, came back with information, that a great +many men were getting together to attack us. We made +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page69" id="page69"></a>[pg 69]</span> +ready to receive them; but, instead of enemies, we found +petitioners, with plantain-trees in their hands, which they +laid down at my feet, and begged that I would spare a canoe +that lay close by, which I readily complied with.</p> + +<p>At length, about four in the afternoon, we got to the +boats that were waiting at Wharrarade, the district belonging +to Tiarataboonoue; but this chief, as well as all +the principal people of the place, had fled to the hills; +though I touched not a single thing that was their property, +as they were the friends of Otoo. After resting ourselves +here about an hour, we set out for the ships, where +we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening. At that +time no account of the goat had been received; so that +the operations of this day had not produced the desired +effect.</p> + +<p>Early next morning, I dispatched one of Omai's men to +Maheine, with this peremptory message, that, if he persisted +in his refusal, I would not leave him a single canoe +upon the island, and that he might expect a continuation +of hostilities as long as the stolen animal remained in his +possession. And, that the messenger might see that I was +in earnest, before he left me, I sent the carpenter to break +up three or four canoes that lay ashore at the head of the +harbour. The plank was carried on board, as materials for +building a house for Omai, at the place where he intended +to settle. I afterward went, properly accompanied, to the +next harbour, where we broke up three or four more canoes, +and burnt an equal number; and then returned on +board about seven in the evening. On my arrival, I found +that the goat had been brought back, about half an hour +before; and, on enquiry, it appeared that it had come +from the very place where I had been told, the day before, +by the inhabitants, that they knew nothing of it. But, in +consequence of the message I sent to the chief in the morning, +it was judged prudent to trifle with me no longer.</p> + +<p>Thus ended this troublesome, and rather unfortunate business; +which could not be more regretted on the part of +the natives than it was on mine. And it grieved me to reflect, +that, after refusing the pressing solicitations of my +friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, +I should so soon find myself reduced to the necessity of +engaging in hostilities against its inhabitants, which, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page70" id="page70"></a>[pg 70]</span> +perhaps, did them more mischief than they had suffered from +Towha's expedition.<a id="footnotetag13" name="footnotetag13"></a><a href="#footnote13"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>The next morning our intercourse with the natives was +renewed; and several canoes brought to the ships bread-fruit +and cocoa-nuts to barter; from whence it was natural +for me to draw this conclusion, that they were conscious it +was their own fault if I had treated them with severity; +and that the cause of my displeasure being removed, they +had a full confidence that no further mischief would ensue.</p> + +<p>About nine o'clock, we weighed with a breeze down the +harbour; but it proved so faint and variable, that it was +noon before we got out to sea, when I steered for Huaheine, +attended by Omai in his canoe. He did not depend +entirely upon his own judgment, but had got on board a +pilot. I observed that they shaped as direct a course for +the island as I could do.</p> + +<p>At Eimeo, we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. +We had not taken in any at Otaheite, where the +procuring this article would have been very inconvenient; +there not being a tree at Matavai but what is useful to the +inhabitants. We also got here good store of refreshments, +both in hogs and vegetables; that is, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts; +little else being in season. I do not know that +there is any difference between the produce of this island +and of Otaheite; but there is a very striking difference in +their women that I can by no means account for. Those +of Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark hue, and, in general, +forbidding features. If we met with a fine woman +among them, we were sure, upon enquiry, to find that she +had come from some other island.</p> + +<p>The general appearance of Eimeo is very different from +that Otaheite. The latter rising in one steep hilly body, +has little low land, except some deep valleys; and the flat +border that surrounds the greatest part of it toward the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page71" id="page71"></a>[pg 71]</span> +sea. Eimeo, on the contrary, has hills running in different +directions, which are very steep and rugged, leaving, in the +interspaces, very large valleys, and gently-rising grounds +about their sides. These hills, though of a rocky disposition, +are, in general, covered, almost to their tops, with +trees; but the lower parts, on the sides, frequently only +with fern. At the bottom of the harbour, where we lay, the +ground rises gently to the foot of the hills, which run +across nearly in the middle of the island; but its flat border, +on each side, at a very small distance from the sea, +becomes quite steep. This gives it a romantic cast, which +renders it a prospect superior to any thing we saw at Otaheite. +The soil, about the low grounds, is a yellowish and +pretty stiff mould; but, upon the lower hills, it is blacker +and more loose; and the stone that composes the hills, is, +when broken, of a blueish colour, but not very compact +texture, with some particles of <i>glimmer</i> interspersed. These +particles seem worthy of observation. Perhaps the reader +will think differently of my judgment, when I add, that, +near the station of our ships, were two large stones, or rather +rocks, concerning which the natives have some superstitious +notions. They consider them as <i>eatooas</i>, or divinities; +saying, that they are brother and sister, and that they +came by some supernatural means from Ulieta.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote12" name="footnote12"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag12"> (return) </a><p>A French traveller in Greece, it is believed Sonnini, makes mention +of such an artifice having been used with success by a vessel that put into +one of the islands he visited; but in this case the transference was made, +not into the island, but into another vessel, containing apples, of which +rats are known to be exceedingly fond. A hawser was secretly fastened +to the latter, so as to form a communication betwixt the two vessels. +On the following morning, it is said, not a rat was found in the one which +originally contained them, the whole having gone over during the night to +the other. So much for the efficacy of the stratagem. The reader will +be at no loss to decide as to the morality of having recourse to it. Mr +Bingley relates another method of getting rid of these vermin, which +seems to be abundantly serviceable, and which certainly has honesty in +its favour. The Valiant man of war, on its return from the Havannah, +was so shockingly infested with them, that they destroyed a hundred +weight of biscuit daily. The ship was smoked between decks in order to +suffocate them, which had the desired effect. In proof of this, he says, +that six hampers were for some time filled every day with the dead animals.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote13" name="footnote13"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag13"> (return) </a><p>It is impossible not to think that Cook carried his resentment +farther +than the necessity of the case required; at least we may say, that the +necessity, besides being in a great degree of his own creating, did not +warrant such extensive aggression. His confessing his regret and concern +must be allowed to prove this, and at the same time to indicate the tenderness +of his moral feelings. It is one of the wisest precepts of practical +wisdom, not to commit one's self farther in threatenings, or vindictive +resolutions, than it will be quite safe and convenient to carry into +effect.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION VI.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Arrival at Huaheine.—Council of the Chiefs.—Omai's Offerings, +and Speech to the Chiefs.—His Establishment in this +Island agreed to.—A House built, and Garden planted for +him.—Singularity of his Situation.—Measures taken to insure +his Safety.—Damage done by Cock-roaches on board +the Ships.—A Thief detected and punished.—Fire-works exhibited.—Animals +left with Omai.—His Family.—Weapons.—Inscription +on his House.—His Behaviour on the +Ships leaving the Island.—Summary View of his Conduct +and Character.—Account of the two New Zealand Youths</i>.</blockquote> + +<p>Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, +at day-break, the next morning we saw Huaheine, +extending from S.W. by W. 1/2 W., to W. by N. At noon, +we anchored at the north entrance of Owharre harbour, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page72" id="page72"></a>[pg 72]</span> +which is on the west side of the island. The whole afternoon +was spent in warping the ships into a proper birth +and mooring. Omai entered the harbour just before us, in +his canoe, but did not land. Nor did he take much notice +of any of his countrymen, though many crowded to see +him; but far more of them came off to the ships, insomuch +that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. +Our passengers presently acquainted them with what we +had done at Eimeo, and multiplied the number of houses +and canoes that we had destroyed, by ten at least. I was +not sorry for this exaggerated account, as I saw that it +made a great impression upon all who heard it; so that I +had hopes it would induce the inhabitants of this island to +behave better to us than they had done during my former +visits.</p> + +<p>While I was at Otaheite, I had learned that my old +friend Oree was no longer the chief of Huaheine; and that, +at this time, he resided at Ulietea. Indeed, he never had +been more than regent during the minority of Taireetareea, +the present <i>earee rahie</i>; but he did not give up the regency +till he was forced. His two sons, Opoony and Towha, +were the first who paid me a visit, coming on board before +the ship was well in the harbour, and bringing a present +with them.</p> + +<p>Our arrival brought all the principal people of the island +to our ships, on the next morning, being the 13th. This +was just what I wished, as it was high time to think of settling +Omai; and the presence of these chiefs, I guessed, +would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. +He now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself +at Ulietea; and if he and I could have agreed about the +mode of bringing that plan to bear, I should have had no +objection to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed by +the men of Bolabola, when they conquered Ulietea, of +some land in that island; and I made no doubt of being +able to get it restored to the son in an amicable manner. +For that purpose it was necessary that he should be upon +good terms with those who now were masters of the island; +but he was too great a patriot to listen to any such thing; +and was vain enough to suppose that I would reinstate him +in his forfeited lands by force. This made it impossible to +fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine as the +proper place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page73" id="page73"></a>[pg 73]</span> +presence of the chief men of the island, and to make this +proposal to them.</p> + +<p>After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to +pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce +this business. Omai dressed himself very properly on +the occasion, and prepared a handsome present for the +chief himself, and another for his <i>eatooa</i>. Indeed, after he +had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, +he behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our +landing drew most of our visitors from the ships; and they, +as well as those that were on shore, assembled in a large +house. The concourse of people, on this occasion, was +very great; and, amongst them, there appeared to be a +greater proportion of personable men and women than we +had ever seen in one assembly, at any of these new islands. +Not only the bulk of the people seemed, in general, much +stouter and fairer than those of Otaheite, but there was also +a much greater number of men who appeared to be of consequence, +in proportion to the extent of the island, most of +whom had exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs +of Wateeoo. We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I +would do nothing till the <i>earee rahie</i> came; but, when he +appeared, I found that his presence might have been dispensed +with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. +Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of +great men, began with making his offering to the gods, +consisting of red feathers, cloth, &c. Then followed another +offering, which was to be given to the gods by the +chief; and after that, several other small pieces and tufts of +red feathers were presented. Each article was laid before +one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and +was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one +of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by +himself. In these prayers, he did not forget his friends in +England, nor those who had brought him safe back. The +<i>earee rahie no Pretane</i>, Lord Sandwich, <i>Toote</i>, <i>Tatee</i>,<a id="footnotetag14" name="footnotetag14"></a><a href="#footnote14"><sup>1</sup></a> were +mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's offerings +and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, in +the same order in which it had been laid before him, and +after repeating a prayer, sent it to the <i>morai</i>, which, as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page74" id="page74"></a>[pg 74]</span> +Omai told us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings +would have been made there.</p> + +<p>These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai +sat down by me, and we entered upon business, by giving +the young chief my present, and receiving his in return; +and, all things considered, they were liberal enough on both +sides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, as to the +manner of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us; and I +pointed out the mischievous consequences that would attend +their robbing us, as they had done during my former visits. +Omai's establishment was then proposed to the assembled +chiefs.</p> + +<p>He acquainted them, "that he had been carried by us +into our country, where he was well received by the great +king and his <i>earees</i>, and treated with every mark of regard +and affection while he staid amongst us; that he had been +brought back again, enriched, by our liberality, with a variety +of articles which would prove very useful to his countrymen; +and that, besides the two horses which were to remain +with him, several other new and valuable animals had +been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish +a sufficient number for the use of all the islands in the +neighbourhood. He then signified to them that it was my +earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, that +they would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, +and to raise provisions for himself and servants; adding, +that if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either +by gift or by purchase, I was determined to carry him +to Ulietea, and fix him there."</p> + +<p>Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend +than he actually delivered; but these were the topics I dictated +to him. I observed that what he concluded with, +about carrying him to Ulietea, seemed to meet with the +approbation of all the chiefs; and I instantly saw the reason. +Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered +himself that I meant to use force in restoring him to +his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly, and +without any authority from me, on this subject, to some of +the present assembly, who dreamed of nothing less than a +hostile invasion of Ulietea, and of being assisted by me to +drive the Bolabola men out of that island. It was of consequence, +therefore, that I should undeceive them; and, in +order to this, I signified, in the most peremptory manner, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page75" id="page75"></a>[pg 75]</span> +that I neither would assist them in such an enterprise, nor +suffer it to be put in execution, while I was in their seas; +and that, if Omai fixed himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced +as a friend, and not forced upon the Bolabola +men as their conqueror.</p> + +<p>This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of +the council. One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself +to this effect: "That the whole island of Huaheine, +and every thing in it, were mine; and that, therefore, I +might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." +Omai, who, like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees +things beyond the present moment, was greatly pleased to +hear this, thinking, no doubt, that I should be very liberal, +and give him enough. But to offer what it would have been +improper to accept, I considered as offering nothing at all, +and, therefore, I now desired that they would not only assign +the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of land +which they would allot for the settlement. Upon this, some +chiefs who had already left the assembly, were sent for; +and, after a short consultation among themselves, my request +was granted by general consent, and the ground immediately +pitched upon, adjoining to the house where our +meeting was held. The extent, along the shore of the +harbour, was about two hundred yards; and its depth, to +the foot of the hill, somewhat more; but a proportional +part of the hill was included in the grant.</p> + +<p>This business being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, +I set up a tent ashore, established a post, and erected +the observatories. The carpenters of both ships were also +set to work to build a small house for Omai, in which he +might secure the European commodities that were his property. +At the same time, some hands were employed in +making a garden for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, +pine-apples, melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable +articles; all of which I had the satisfaction of observing +to be in a flourishing state before I left the island.</p> + +<p>Omai now began seriously to attend to his own affairs, +and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at +Otaheite. He found at Huaheine, a brother, a sister, and a +brother-in-law; the sister being married. But these did +not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. +I was sorry, however, to discover that, though they +were too honest to do him any injury, they were of too +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page76" id="page76"></a>[pg 76]</span> +little consequence in the island to do him any positive good. +They had neither authority nor influence to protect his person, +or his property; and, in that helpless situation, I had +reason to apprehend that he run great risk of being stripped +of every thing he had got from us, as soon as he should +cease to have us within his reach, to enforce the good behaviour +of his countrymen, by an immediate appeal to our +irresistible power.</p> + +<p>A man who is richer than his neighbours is sure to be +envied, by numbers who wish to see him brought down to +their own level. But in countries where civilization, law, +and religion impose their restraints, the rich have a reasonable +ground of security. And besides there being, in all +such communities, a diffusion of property, no single individual +need fear, that the efforts of all the poorer sort can +ever be united to injure him, exclusively of others who are +equally the objects of envy. It was very different with +Omai. He was to live amongst those who are strangers, in +a great measure, to any other principle of action besides +the immediate impulse of their natural feelings. But, what +was his principal danger, he was to be placed in the very +singular situation of being the only rich man in the community +to which he was to belong. And having, by a fortunate +connection with us, got into his possession an accumulated +quantity of a species of treasure which none of his +countrymen could create by any art or industry of their +own; while all coveted a share of this envied wealth, it was +natural to apprehend that all would be ready to join in attempting +to strip its sole proprietor.</p> + +<p>To prevent this, if possible, I advised him to make a proper +distribution of some of his moveables to two or three +of the principal chiefs, who, being thus gratified themselves, +might be induced to take him under their patronage, +and protect him from the injuries of others. He promised +to follow my advice; and I heard, with satisfaction, +before I sailed, that this very prudent step had been taken. +Not trusting, however, entirely to the operations of gratitude, +I had recourse to the more forcible motive of intimidation. +With this view, I took every opportunity of notifying +to the inhabitants, that it was my intention to return +to their island again, after being absent the usual time; and +that, if I did not find Omai in the same state of security in +which I was now to leave him, all those whom, I should then +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page77" id="page77"></a>[pg 77]</span> +discover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel the +weight of my resentment. This threatening declaration; +will, probably, have no inconsiderable effect; for our successive +visits of late years have taught these people to believe +that our ships are to return at certain periods; and +while they continue to be impressed with such a notion, +which I thought it a fair stratagem to confirm, Omai has +some prospect of being permitted to thrive upon his new +plantation.</p> + +<p>While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the +bread remaining in the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. +The number of cock-roaches that infested the ship, at this +time, is incredible. The damage they did us was very considerable; +and every method devised by us to destroy +them proved ineffectual. These animals which, at first, +were a nuisance, like all other insects, had now become a +real pest, and so destructive, that few things were free from, +their ravages. If food of any kind was exposed, only for a +few minutes, it was covered with them, and they soon +pierced it full of holes, resembling a honey-comb. They +were particularly destructive to birds which had been stuffed +and preserved as curiosities, and what was worse, were uncommonly +fond of ink, so that the writing on the labels +fastened to different articles were quite eaten out; and the +only thing that preserved books from them was the closeness +of the binding, which prevented these devourers getting +between the leaves. According to Mr Anderson's observations, +they were of two sorts, the <i>blatta orientalis</i> and +<i>germanica</i>. The first of these had been carried home in the +ship from her former voyage, where they withstood the severity +of the hard winter in 1776, though she was in dock +all the time. The others had only made their appearance +since our leaving New Zealand, but had increased so fast, +that they now not only did all the mischief mentioned +above, but had even got amongst the rigging, so that when +a sail was loosened, thousands of them fell upon the decks. +The orientates, though in infinite numbers, scarcely came +out but in the night, when they made every thing in the +cabins seem as if in motion, from the particular noise in +crawling about. And, besides their disagreeable appearance, +they did great mischief to our bread, which was so +bespattered with their excrement, that it would have been +badly relished by delicate feeders.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page78" id="page78"></a>[pg 78]</span> + +<p>The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried +on between us and the natives, without being disturbed by +any one accident, till the evening of the 22d, when a man +found means to get into Mr Bayly's observatory, and to +carry off a sextant unobserved. As soon as I was made acquainted +with the theft, I went ashore, and got Omai to +apply to the chiefs to procure restitution. He did so; but +they took no steps toward it, being more attentive to a +<i>heeva</i> that was then acting, till I ordered the performers of +the exhibition to desist. They were now convinced that I +was in earnest, and began to make some enquiry after the +thief, who was sitting in the midst of them, quite unconcerned, +insomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the +guilty person, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, +assuring me that he was the man, I sent him on board the +ship, and there confined him. This raised a general ferment +amongst the assembled natives; and the whole body +fled in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having +employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difficulty +he was brought to confess where he had hid the sextant; +but, as it was now dark, we could not find it till day-light +the next morning, when it was brought back unhurt. +After this, the natives recovered from their fright, and began +to gather about us as usual. And, as to the thief, he +appearing to be a hardened scoundrel, I punished him more +severely than I had ever done any one culprit before. Besides +having his head and beard shaved, I ordered both his +ears to be cut off and then dismissed him.<a id="footnotetag15" name="footnotetag15"></a><a href="#footnote15"><sup>2</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page79" id="page79"></a>[pg 79]</span> + +<p>This, however, did not deter him from giving us farther +trouble; for, in the night between the 24th and 25th, a general +alarm was spread, occasioned, as was said, by one of +our goats being stolen by this very man. On examination, +we found that all was safe in that quarter. Probably, the +goats were so well guarded, that he could not put his design +in execution. But his hostilities had succeeded against +another object, and it appeared that he had destroyed and +carried off several vines and cabbage-plants in Omai's +grounds; add he publicly threatened to kill him, and to +burn his house as soon as we should leave the island. To +prevent the fellow's doing me and Omai any more mischief, +I had him seized, and confined again on board the ship, +with a view of carrying him off the island; and it seemed +to give general satisfaction to the chiefs, that I meant thus +to dispose of him. He was from Bolabola; but there were +too many of the natives here ready to assist him in any of +his designs, whenever he should think of executing them. +I had always met with more troublesome people in Huaheine +than in any other of the neighbouring islands; and it +was only fear, and the want of opportunities, that induced +them to behave better now. Anarchy, seemed to prevail +amongst them. Their nominal sovereign the <i>earee rahie</i>, as +I have before observed, was but a child; and I did not find +that there was any one man, or set of men who managed +the government for him; so that, whenever any misunderstanding +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page80" id="page80"></a>[pg 80]</span> +happened between us, I never knew, with sufficient +precision, where to make application, in order to bring +about an accommodation, or to procure redress. The +young chiefs mother would, indeed, sometimes exert herself, +but I did not perceive that she had greater authority +than many others.</p> + +<p>Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his moveables +were carried ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety +of other useless articles was a box of toys, which, when exposed +to public view, seemed greatly to please the gazing +multitude. But, as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking-mugs, +glasses, and the whole train of our domestic accommodations, +hardly any one of his countrymen would +so much as look at them. Omai himself now began to +think that they were of no manner of use to him; that a +baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled one, that a +plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter, and +that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a blackjack. +And, therefore, he very wisely disposed of as many +of these articles of English furniture for the kitchen and +pantry, as he could find purchasers for, amongst the people +of the ships; receiving from them in return, hatchets and +other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this +part of the world, and added more to his distinguishing superiority +over those with whom he was to pass the remainder +of his days.</p> + +<p>In the long list of the presents bestowed upon him in +England, fire-works had not been forgot. Some of these we +exhibited in the evening of the 28th, before a great concourse +of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleasure +and fear. What remained, after the evening's entertainment, +were put in order, and left with Omai, agreeably +to their original destination. Perhaps we need not lament +it as a serious misfortune, that the far greater share of this +part of his cargo, had been already expended in exhibitions +at other islands, or rendered useless by being kept so +long.</p> + +<p>Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th, +the Bolabola man, whom I had in confinement, found +means to make his escape out' of the ship. He carried with +him the shackle of the bilbo-bolt that was about his leg, +which was taken from him, as soon as he got on shore, by +one of the chiefs, and given to Omai, who came on board +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page81" id="page81"></a>[pg 81]</span> +very early in the morning, to acquaint me that his mortal +enemy was again let loose upon him. Upon enquiry, it appeared +that not only the sentry placed over the prisoner, +but the whole watch upon the quarter-deck where he was +confined, had laid themselves down to sleep. He seized the +opportunity to take the key of the irons out of the binnacle-drawer, +where he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. +This escape convinced me that my people had been +very remiss in their night duty, which made it necessary to +punish those who were now in fault, and to establish some +new regulations to prevent the like negligence for the future. +I was not a little pleased to hear, afterward, that the +fellow who escaped had transported himself to Ulietea; in +this, seconding my views of putting him a second time in +irons.<a id="footnotetag16" name="footnotetag16"></a><a href="#footnote16"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I began +to think of leaving the island; and got every thing off +from the shore, this evening, except the horse and mare, +and a goat big with kid, which were left in the possession +of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. I +also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed; +and he had got a sow or two of his own. The horse covered +the mare while we were at Otaheite; so that I consider +the introduction of a breed of horses into these islands as +likely to have succeeded, by this valuable present.</p> + +<p>The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous +class of readers more than any other occurrence of a +voyage, the objects of which do not, in general, promise +much entertainment. Every circumstance, therefore, which +may serve to convey a satisfactory account of the exact situation +in which he was left, will be thought worth preserving; +and the following particulars are added, to complete +the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up +at Otaheite four or five <i>toutous</i>; the two New Zealand +youths remained with him; and his brother, and some +others, joined him at Huaheine; so that his family consisted +already of eight or ten persons, if that can be called a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page82" id="page82"></a>[pg 82]</span> +family to which not a single female as yet belonged, nor I +doubt was likely to belong, unless its master became less +volatile. At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to +take unto himself a wife.</p> + +<p>The house which we erected for him was twenty-four feet +by eighteen, and ten feet high. It was composed of boards, +the spoils of our military operations at Eimeo; and, in +building it, as few nails as possible were used, that there +might be no inducement, from the love of iron, to pull it +down. It was settled, that, immediately after our departure, +he should begin to build a large house after the fashion of +his country, one end of which was to be brought over that +which we had erected, so as to enclose it entirely for greater +security. In this work, some of the chiefs promised to +assist him; and, if the intended building should cover the +ground which he marked out, it will be as large as most +upon the island.</p> + +<p>His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, +and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and +two or three swords or cutlasses. The possession of these +made him quite happy, which was my only view in giving +him such presents. For I was always of opinion that he +would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European +weapons, than with them, as such implements of +war, in the hands of one, whose prudent use of them I had +some grounds for mistrusting, would rather increase his +dangers than establish his superiority. After he had got on +shore every thing that belonged to him, and was settled in +his house, he had most of the officers of both ships, two or +three times, to dinner; and his table was always well supplied +with the very best provisions that the island produced.</p> + +<p>Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon +the outside of his house:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p><i>Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777.</i></p> +<p><i>Naves { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.</i></p> +<p class="i6"> <i>{ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.</i></p> + </div> </div> + +<p>On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, I took +the advantage of a breeze which then sprung up at E., and +sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained +on board till the ships were under sail; when, to gratify +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page83" id="page83"></a>[pg 83]</span> +their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then +all took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we were +at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the +shore. In casting the ship, it parted, being cut by the +rocks, and the outer end was left behind, as those who cast +it off did not perceive that it was broken, so that it became +necessary to send a boat to bring it on board. In this boat, +Omai went ashore, after taking a very affectionate farewell +of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution +till he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to +conceal his tears failed; and Mr King, who went in the +boat, told me, that he wept all the time in going ashore.</p> + +<p>It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought +him safe back to the very spot from which he was taken. +And yet, such is the strange nature of human affairs, that +it is probable we left him in a less desirable situation than +he was in before his connection with us. I do not by this +mean, that because he has tasted the sweets of civilized life, +he must become more miserable from being obliged to +abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself +to this single disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages +he received from us have placed him in a more hazardous +situation, with respect to his personal safety. Omai, +from being much caressed in England, lost sight of his original +condition; and never considered in what manner his +acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be estimated +by his countrymen at his return, which were the +only things he could have to recommend him to them now, +more than before, and on which he could build either his +future greatness or happiness. He seemed even to have +mistaken their genius in this respect, and, in some measure, +to have forgotten their customs, otherwise he must have +known the extreme difficulty there would be in getting +himself admitted as a person of rank, where there is, perhaps, +no instance of a man's being raised from an inferior +station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the very +foundation of all distinction here, and, of its attendant, +power; and so pertinaciously, or rather blindly adhered to, +that, unless a person has some degree of it, he will certainly +be despised and hated, if he assumes the appearance of +exercising any authority. This was really the case, in some +measure, with Omai, though his countrymen were pretty +cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page84" id="page84"></a>[pg 84]</span> +amongst them. Had he made a proper use of the presents +he brought with him from England, this, with the knowledge +he had acquired by travelling so far, might have enabled +him to form the most useful connections. But we +have given too many instances, in the course of our narrative, +of his childish inattention to this obvious means of advancing +his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher +though ridiculous nature, indeed I might say meaner; for +revenge, rather than a desire of becoming great, appeared +to actuate him from the beginning. This, however, maybe +excused, if we consider that it is common to his countrymen. +His father was, doubtless, a man of considerable +property in Ulietea, when that island was conquered by +those of Bolabola, and, with many others, sought refuge in +Huaheine, where he died, and left Omai, with some other +children; who, by that means, became totally dependent. +In this situation he was taken up by Captain Furneaux, and +carried to England. Whether he really expected, from his +treatment there, that any assistance would be given him +against the enemies of his father and his country, or whether +he imagined that his own personal courage and superiority +of knowledge would be sufficient to dispossess the +conquerors of Ulietea, is uncertain; but, from the beginning +of the voyage, this was his constant theme. He would +not listen to our remonstrances on so wild a determination, +but flew into a passion if more moderate and reasonable +counsels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated +and attached to his favourite scheme was he, that he +affected to believe these people would certainly quit the +conquered island, as soon as they should hear of his arrival +in Otaheite. As we advanced, however, on our voyage, he +became more sensible of his error; and, by the time we +reached the Friendly Islands, had even such apprehensions +of his reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my +journal, he would fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, +under Feenou's protection. At these islands, he squandered +away much of his European treasure very unnecessarily; +and he was equally imprudent, as I also took notice of +above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making +friends, as he had not any intention of remaining there. At +Matavai, he continued the same inconsiderate behaviour, +till I absolutely put a stop to his profusion; and he formed +such improper connections there, that Otoo, who was at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page85" id="page85"></a>[pg 85]</span> +first much disposed to countenance him, afterward openly +expressed his dislike of him, on account of his conduct. It +was not, however, too late to recover his favour; and he +might have settled, to great advantage, in Otaheite, as he +had formerly lived several years there, and was now a good +deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable present, of a very +large double canoe, we have seen above. The objection to +admitting him to some rank would have also been much +lessened, if he had fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always +find it more difficult to accomplish such a change of +state amongst his countrymen, than a stranger who naturally +claims respect. But Omai remained undetermined to the +last, and would not, I believe, have adopted my plan of settlement +in Huaheine, if I had not so explicitly refused to +employ force in restoring him to his father's possessions. +Whether the remains of his European wealth, which after +all his improvident waste, was still considerable, will be +more prudently administered by him, or whether the steps +I took, as already explained, to insure him protection in +Huaheine, shall have proved effectual, must be left to the +decision of future navigators of this ocean, with whom it +cannot but be a principal object of curiosity to trace the +future fortunes of our traveller. At present, I can only conjecture +that his greatest danger will arise from the very impolitic +declarations of his antipathy to the inhabitants of +Bolabola. For these people, from a principle of jealousy, +will, no doubt, endeavour to render him obnoxious to those +of Huaheine; as they are at peace with that island at present, +and may easily effect their designs, many of them living +there. This is a circumstance, which, of all others, he +might the most easily have avoided. For they were not +only free from any aversion to him, but the person mentioned +before, whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, +priest, or god, absolutely offered to reinstate him in +the property that was formerly his father's. But he refused +this peremptorily; and, to the very last, continued determined +to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying +his revenge in battle. To this, I guess, he was not a little +spurred by the coat of mail he brought from England; +clothed in which, and in possession of some fire-arms, he +fancied that he should be invincible.</p> + +<p>Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were +more than overbalanced by his great good-nature and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page86" id="page86"></a>[pg 86]</span> +docile disposition. During the whole time he was with me, I +very seldom had reason to be seriously displeased with his +general conduct. His grateful heart always retained the +highest sense of the favours he had received in England, +nor will he ever forget those who honoured him with their +protection and friendship, during his stay there. He had +a tolerable share of understanding, but wanted application +and perseverance to exert it; so that his knowledge of +things was very general, and, in many instances, imperfect. +He was not a man of much observation. There were many +useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the +people of the Friendly Islands, which he might have conveyed +to his own, where they probably would have been +readily adopted, as being so much in their own way. But +I never found that he used the least endeavour to make +himself master of any one. This kind of indifference is indeed +the characteristic foible of his nation. Europeans +have visited them at times for these ten years past, yet we +could not discover the slightest trace of any attempt to +profit by this intercourse, nor have they hitherto copied after +us in any one thing. We are not, therefore, to expert +that Omai will be able to introduce many of our arts and +customs amongst them, or much improve those to which +they have been long habituated. I am confident, however, +that he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various +fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. +But the greatest benefit these islands are likely +to receive from Omai's travels, will be in the animals that +have been left upon them, which, probably, they never +would have got, had he not come to England. When these +multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite +and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place +in the known word, for provisions.</p> + +<p>Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought +back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer +themselves as volunteers to attend me to <i>Pretane</i>. I took +every opportunity of expressing my determination to reject +all such applications. But, notwithstanding this, Omai, +who was very ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, +being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to put others +in a situation of rivalling him, frequently put me in mind +that Lord Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen +were to come to England.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page87" id="page87"></a>[pg 87]</span> + +<p>If there had been the most distant probability of any +ship being again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought +the two youths of that country home with me, as both of +them were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the +eldest, was an exceedingly well-diposed young man, with +strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. +He seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority +of his own country to these islands, and resigned himself, +though perhaps with reluctance, to end his days in ease +and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached +to us, that he was taken out of the ship, and carried +ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy; and, on that +account, much noticed on board.<a id="footnotetag17" name="footnotetag17"></a><a href="#footnote17"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote14" name="footnote14"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag14"> (return) </a><p>Cook and Clerke.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote15" name="footnote15"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag15"> (return) </a><p></p>We cannot suffer this action to be passed over, without expressing +indignation +at the cruelty and injustice that marked it. Not even the fair +reputation of Cook for meekness and humanity ought to deter any one +from affixing the proper term to such conduct. He had no right to award +so severe a treatment, even though he had authority to take cognizance of +the man's former and general character, which, however, it is impossible, +on any satisfactory principle, to demonstrate. It was both the duty and +the interest of Captain Cook to conform to the established maxims and +decisions of the people whom he visited, which, whatever their own practice +had been, would have proved amply severe, as we have already had +occasion to observe; but no superiority of power on his part, could warrant +the introduction of unrecognized, and to these islanders it is probable, +quite unheard-of modes of punishment. A suspicion, some persons +may think a very unfair one, lurks in the mind of the writer, that the captain +had rather <i>forgotten himself</i> during this voyage, and that presuming, +in some degree, on his established fame and consequence, be exercised a +greater latitude of power than his original caution and sense of responsibility +would have permitted him to hazard, at an earlier period of his career. +Such undoubtedly is human nature, and it can by no means be interpreted +as an unjust aspersion, that Cook was not exempted from its +common infirmities. Captain King, as we shall afterwards find, makes a +remark on his acquired confidence with respect to the savages, in the latter +part of his professional life, which, though in the most delicate manner +imaginable, seems very readily to fall in with the suspicion now stated. +As might have been expected, the over severe, and, at all events, imprudently +managed punishment, failed to operate beneficially on the poor +wretch that was subjected to it Perhaps it will be discovered to hold +universally, +that wherever the appearance of revenge characterizes an act of +retributive justice, a feeling of the same principle hardens the breast of the +culprit, besides influencing the speculative judgments of those who witness +it But it were foolish to expect, that either one or other will avow the +existence of so dangerous a motive. The only excuse that offers itself in. +behalf of Captain Cook's conduct on this occasion, is stated in what he +immediately mentions of the anarchy existing in this island. But even +that is only a palliation in part, and does not reach to the full amount of +the case. Let the reader judge.—E.</blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote16" name="footnote16"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag16"> (return) </a><p>Might not so spirited a fellow as this, by proper treatment, have +been +made a most useful agent? How many talents are often lost to society, +because governments are more necessitated, or at least more accustomed, +to punish transgressions, than willing to be at the pains of rewarding ability +and fostering genius! And yet the latter process, it might not be difficult +to prove, would be much less expensive than the former.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote17" name="footnote17"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag17"> (return) </a><p>Some particulars respecting the subsequent history of Omai and the +two New Zealanders, are related in the account of Captain Bligh's voyage +in 1788. We ought not to anticipate matter which properly belongs to +another period and subject. It seems right, however, in the present instance, +to set the reader's expectations at rest, though the doing so be +somewhat afflictive to his feelings. Omai died a natural death about thirty +months after Captain Cook's departure, but not till he had the satisfaction +of experiencing the importance of the arms and ammunition he was +master of, in a successful engagement which his countrymen had with the +people of Ulietea and Bolabola. Peace soon followed, but it does not +seem that his exertions on this occasion procured him any additional possessions +or elevation of rank. From the good character, however, which +his countrymen gave of him, it appeared that he had conducted himself +with such general propriety as gained their applause. The New Zealanders +did not long survive him, but scarcely any satisfactory information +of their history could be obtained.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION VII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Arrival at Ulietea.—Astronomical Observations.—A Marine +deserts, and is delivered up.—Intelligence from Omai.—Instructions +to Captain Clerke.—Another Desertion of a Midshipman +and a Seaman.—Three of the chief Persons of the +Island confined on that Account.—A Design to seize Captains +Cook and Clerke, discovered.—The two Deserters +brought back, and the Prisoners released.—The Ships sail.—Refreshments +received at Ulietea.—Present and former State +of that Island.—Account of its dethroned King, and of the +late Regent of Huaheine.</i></blockquote> + +<p>The boat which carried Omai ashore, never to join us +again, having returned to the ship, with the remainder of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page88" id="page88"></a>[pg 88]</span> +the hawser, we hoisted her in, and immediately stood over +for Ulietea, where I intended to touch next. At ten o'clock +at night, we brought-to, till four the next morning, when +we made sail round the south end of the island, for the +harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs +of wind, from different directions, by turns; so that, at +noon, we were still a league from the entrance of the harbour. +While we were thus detained, my old friend Oreo, +chief of the island, with his son and Pootoe, his son-in-law, +came off to visit us.</p> + +<p>Being resolved to push for the harbour, I ordered all the +boats to be hoisted out, and sent them a-head to tow, being +assisted by a slight breeze from the southward. This breeze +failed too soon, and being succeeded by one from the E., +which blew right out of the harbour, we were obliged to +come to an anchor at its entrance at two o'clock, and to +warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as +we were within the harbour, the ships were surrounded +with canoes filled with people, who brought hogs and fruit +to barter with us for our commodities, so that wherever we +went we found plenty.</p> + +<p>Next morning, being the 4th, I moored the ship head +and stern close to the north shore, at the head of the harbour; +hauled up the cables on deck, and opened one of the +ballast-ports. From this a slight stage was made to the +land, being at the distance of about twenty feet, with a +view to get clear of some of the rats that continued to infest +us. The Discovery moored alongside the south shore +for the same purpose. While this work was going forward, +I returned Oreo's visit. The present I made him on the +occasion, consisted of a linen gown, a shirt, a red-feathered +cap from Tongataboo, and other things of less value. I +then brought him and some of his friends on board to dinner.</p> + +<p>On the 6th, we set up the observatories, and got the necessary +instruments on shore. The two following days we +observed the sun's azimuths, both on board and ashore, +with all the compasses, in order to find the variation; and +in the night of the latter, observed an occultation of <i>σ Capricorni</i>, +by the moon's dark limb. Mr Bayly and I agreed +in fixing the time of its happening, at six minutes and fifty-four +seconds and a half past ten o'clock. Mr King made +it half a second sooner. Mr Bayly observed with the achromatic +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page89" id="page89"></a>[pg 89]</span> +telescope belonging to the board of longitude; Mr +King, with the reflector belonging also to the board; and +I made use of my own reflector of eighteen inches. There +was also an immersion of <i>π Capricorni</i> behind the moon's +dark limb, some time before, but it was observed by Mr +Bayly alone. I attempted to trace it with a small achromatic, +but found its magnifying power not sufficient.</p> + +<p>Nothing worthy of note happened till the night between +the 12th and 13th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was +sentinel at the observatory, deserted, carrying with him his +musket and accoutrements. Having in the morning got intelligence +which way he had moved off, a party was sent +after him; but they returned in the evening, after an ineffectual +enquiry and search. The next day I applied to the +chief to interest himself in this matter. He promised to +send a party of his men after him, and gave me hopes that +he should be brought back the same day. But this did not +happen; and I had reason to suspect that no steps had been +taken by him. We had at this time a great number of the +natives about the ships, and some thefts were committed; +the consequence of which being dreaded by them, very +few visitors came near us the next morning. The chief +himself joined in the alarm, and he and his whole family +fled. I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to +deliver up the deserter; and having got intelligence that he +was at a place called Hamoa, on the other side of the +island, I went thither with two armed boats, accompanied +by one of the natives; and, in our way, we found the chief, +who also embarked with me. I landed about a mile and a +half from the place, with a few people, and marched briskly +up to it, lest the sight of the boat should give the alarm, +and allow the man time to escape to the mountains. But +this precaution was unnecessary, for the natives there had +got information of my coming, and were prepared to deliver +him up.</p> + +<p>I found Harrison, with the musket lying before him, sitting +between two women, who, the moment that I entered +the house, rose up to plead in his behalf. As it was highly +proper to discourage such proceedings, I frowned upon +them, and bid them begone. Upon this they burst into +tears, and walked off. Paha, the chief of the district, now +came with a plantain tree, and a sucking pig, which he +would have presented to me as a peace-offering. I rejected +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page90" id="page90"></a>[pg 90]</span> +it, and ordered him out of my sight; and having embarked +with the deserter on board the first boat that arrived, +returned to the ships. After this, harmony was again +restored. The fellow had nothing to say in his defence, +but that the natives had enticed him away; and this might +in part be true, as it was certain that Paha, and also the +two women above-mentioned, had been at the ship the day +before he deserted. As it appeared that he remained upon +his post till within a few minutes of the time when he was +to have been relieved, the punishment that I inflicted upon +him was not very severe.</p> + +<p>Though we had separated from Omai, we were still near +enough to have intelligence of his proceedings; and I had +desired to hear from him. Accordingly, about a fortnight +after our arrival at Ulietea, he sent two of his people in a +canoe, who brought me the satisfactory intelligence that +he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, and +that every thing went well with him, except that his goat had +died in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence with a +request, that I would send him another goat and two axes. +Being happy to have this additional opportunity of serving +him, the messengers were sent back to Huaheine on the +18th, with the axes and two kids, male and female, which +were spared for him out of the Discovery.</p> + +<p>The next day I delivered to Captain Clerke instructions +how to proceed in case of being separated from me, after +leaving these islands; and it may not be improper to give +them a place here.</p> + + +<p><i>By Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majesty's Sloop +the Resolution.</i></p> + +<p>"Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the +northern coast of America, is of considerable length, both +in distance and in time, and as a part of it must be performed +in the very depth of winter, when gales of wind +and bad weather must be expected, and may possibly occasion +a separation, you are to take all imaginable care to +prevent this. But if, notwithstanding all our endeavours to +keep company, you should be separated from me, you are +first to look for me where you last saw me. Not seeing me +in five days, you are to proceed (as directed by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page91" id="page91"></a>[pg 91]</span> +instructions of their lordships, a copy of which you have +already received) for the coast of New Albion; endeavouring +to fall in with it in the latitude of 45°.</p> + +<p>"In that latitude, and at a convenient distance from the +land, you are to cruize for me ten days. Not seeing me in +that time, you are to put into the first convenient port in +or to the north of that latitude, to recruit your wood and +water, and to procure refreshments.</p> + +<p>"During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep +a good look-out for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to +make choice of a station, situated as near the sea-coast as +is possible, the better to enable you to see me when I shall +appear in the offing.</p> + +<p>"If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you +are to put to sea, and proceed northward to the latitude +56°; in which latitude, and at a convenient distance from +the coast, never exceeding fifteen leagues, you are to cruize +for me till the 10th of May.</p> + +<p>"Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, +and endeavour to find a passage into the Atlantic +Ocean, through Hudson's or Baffin's Bays, as directed by +the above-mentioned instructions.</p> + +<p>"But if you should fail in finding a passage through either +of the said bays, or by any other way, as the season of +the year may render it unsafe for you to remain in high +latitudes, you are to repair to the harbour of St Peter and +St Paul, in Kamtschatka, in order to refresh your people, +and to pass the winter.</p> + +<p>"But, nevertheless, if you find that you cannot procure +the necessary refreshments at the said port, you are at liberty +to go where you shall judge most proper; taking +care, before you depart, to leave with the governor an account +of your intended destination, to be delivered to me +upon my arrival; and in the spring of the ensuing year, +1779, you are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, +endeavouring to be there by the 10th of May, or sooner.</p> + +<p>"If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account +of me, so as to justify your pursuing any other measures +than what are pointed out in the before-mentioned +instructions, your future proceedings are to be governed +by them.</p> + +<p>"You are also to comply with such parts of said instructions +as have not been executed, and are not contrary to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page92" id="page92"></a>[pg 92]</span> +these orders. And in case of your inability, by sickness or +otherwise, to carry these, and the instructions of their +lordships into execution, you are to be careful to leave +them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required +to execute them in the best manner he can.</p> + +<p>"Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at +Ulietea, the 18th day of November 1777.</p> + +<p><b>"J. COOK.</b></p> + + +<blockquote><p> +"To Captain Charles Clerke, Commander +of his Majesty's Sloop the Discovery," +</p></blockquote> + +<p>While we lay moored to the shore we heeled and scrubbed +both sides of the bottoms of the ships. At the same +time we fixed some tin-plates under the binds, first taking +off the old sheathing, and putting in a piece unfilled, over +which the plates were nailed. These plates I had from the +ingenious Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners for +victualling his majesty's navy, with a view of trying whether +tin would answer the same end as copper on the bottoms +of ships.</p> + +<p>On the 24th, in the morning, I was informed that a midshipman +and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, +were missing. Soon after we learnt from the natives, that +they went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and +were, at this time, at the other end of the island. As the +midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain +at these islands, it seemed pretty certain that he and +his companion had gone off with this intention; and Captain +Clerke set out in quest of them with two armed boats +and a party of marines. His expedition proved fruitless, +for he returned in the evening, without having got any certain +intelligence where they were. From the conduct of +the natives, Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended +to conceal the deserters; and, with that view, had +amused him with false information the whole day, and directed +him to search for them in places where they were +not to be found. The Captain judged right; for the next +morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. +As these two were not the only persons in the ships who +wished to end their days at these favourite islands, in order +to put a stop to any further desertion, it was necessary +to get them back at all events; and, that the natives might +be convinced that I was in earnest, I resolved to go after +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page93" id="page93"></a>[pg 93]</span> +them myself; having observed, from repeated instances, +that they seldom offered to deceive me with false information.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, I set out the next morning with two armed +boats, being accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded +as he directed, without stopping any where, till we +came to the middle of the east side of Otaha. There we +put ashore, and Oreo dispatched a man before us, with orders +to seize the deserters, and keep them till we should +arrive with the boats. But when we got to the place where +we expected to find them, we were told that they had quitted +this island, and gone over to Bolabola the day before. +I did not think proper to follow them thither, but returned +to the ships, fully determined, however, to have recourse to +a measure which, I guessed, would oblige the natives to +bring them back.</p> + +<p>In the night, Mr Bayly, Mr King, and myself, observed +an immersion of Jupiter's third satellite. It happened, by +the observation of</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">Mr Bayly, at</td><td align="left">2<sup>h</sup></td><td align="left">37<sup>m</sup></td><td align="left">54<sup>s</sup></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mr King, at</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">24</td><td align="left">in the morning.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Myself, at</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">44</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Mr Bayly and Mr King observed with Dolland's three-and-a-half +inch achromatic telescope, and with the greatest +magnifying power. I observed with a two-feet Gregorian +reflector, made by Bird.</p> + +<p>Soon after day-break, the chief, his son, daughter, and +son-in-law, came on board the Resolution. The three last +I resolved to detain till the two deserters should be brought +back. With this view, Captain Clerke invited them to go +on board his ship; and, as soon as they arrived there, confined +them in his cabin. The chief was with me when the +news reached him. He immediately acquainted me with it, +supposing that this step had been taken without my knowledge, +and, consequently, without my approbation. I instantly +undeceived him; and then he began to have apprehensions +as to his own situation, and his looks expressed +the utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon made him +easy as to this; by telling him, that he was at liberty to +leave the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such measures +as he should judge best calculated to get our two +men back; that, if he succeeded, his friends on board the +Discovery should be delivered up, if not, that I was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page94" id="page94"></a>[pg 94]</span> +determined to carry them away with me. I added, that his own +conduct, as well as that of many of his men, in not only assisting +these two men to escape, but in being, even at this +very time, assiduous in enticing others to follow them, +would justify any step I could take to put a stop to such +proceedings.</p> + +<p>This explanation of the motives upon which I acted, +and which we found means to make Oreo and his people, +who were present, fully comprehend, seemed to recover +them, in a great measure, from that general consternation +into which they were at first thrown. But, if relieved from +apprehensions about their own safety, they continued under +the deepest concern for those who were prisoners. +Many of them went under the Discovery's stern in canoes, +to bewail their captivity, which they did with long and +loud exclamations. <i>Poedooa!</i> for so the chief's daughter +was called, resounded from every quarter; and the women +seemed to vie with each other in mourning her fate with +more significant expressions of their grief than tears and +cries, for there were many bloody heads upon the occasion.</p> + +<p>Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, +but instantly began his exertions to recover our deserters, +by dispatching a canoe to Bolabola, with a message +to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him +with what had happened, and requesting him to seize the +two fugitives, and send them back. The messenger, who +was no less a man than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, +before he set out came to receive my commands. I +strictly enjoined him not to return without the deserters, +and to tell Opoony, from me, that, if they had left Bolabola, +he must send canoes to bring them back, for I suspected +that they would not long remain in one place.</p> + +<p>The consequence, however, of the prisoners was so great, +that the natives did not think proper to trust to the return +of our people for their release; or, at least, their impatience +was so great, that it hurried them to meditate an attempt +which might have involved them in still greater distress, +had it not been fortunately prevented. Between five +and six o'clock in the evening, I observed that all their canoes +in and about the harbour began to move off, as if +some sudden panic had seized them. I was ashore, abreast +of the ship at the time, and enquired in vain to find out +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page95" id="page95"></a>[pg 95]</span> +the cause, till our people called to as from the Discovery, +and told us, that a party of the natives had seized Captain +Clerke and Mr Gore, who had walked out a little way from +the ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, +which seemed to counteract me so effectually in my +own way, there was no time to deliberate. I instantly ordered +the people to arm; and in less than five minutes, a +strong party, under the command of Mr King, was sent to +rescue our two gentlemen. At the same time, two armed +boats, and a party under Mr Williamson, went after the +flying canoes, to cut off their retreat to the shore. These +several detachments were hardly out of sight, before an account +arrived that we had been misinformed, upon which +I sent and called them all in.</p> + +<p>It was evident, however, from several corroborating circumstances, +that the design of seizing Captain Clerke had +really been in agitation amongst the natives. Nay, they +made no secret in speaking of it the next day. But their +first and great plan of operations was to have laid hold of +me. It was my custom, every evening, to bathe in the fresh +water. Very often I went alone, and always without arms. +Expecting me to go as usual this evening, they had determined +to seize me, and Captain Clerke too, if he had accompanied +me. But I had, after confining Oreo's family, +thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in their power; +and had cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to +go far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon the +chief asked me three several times, if I would not go to +the bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that I +could not be prevailed upon, he went off with the rest of +his people, in spite of all that I could do or say to stop +him. But as I had no suspicion, at this time, of their design, +I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, +which would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves +disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were more +in their power. It was fortunate for all parties that they +did not succeed, and not less fortunate that no mischief +was done on the occasion; for not a musket was fired, except +two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, +Messrs Clerke and Gore owed their safety;<a id="footnotetag18" name="footnotetag18"></a><a href="#footnote18"><sup>1</sup></a> for, at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page96" id="page96"></a>[pg 96]</span> +that very instant, a party of the natives, armed with clubs, +were advancing toward them, and, on hearing the report +of the muskets, they dispersed.</p> + +<p>This conspiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered +by a girl, whom one of the officers had brought from +Huaheine. She, overhearing some of the Ulieteans say, +that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr Gore, ran +to acquaint the first of our people that she met with. +Those who were charged with the execution of the design +threatened to kill her as soon as we should leave the island, +for disappointing them. Being aware of this, we contrived +that her friends should come, some days after, and take +her out of the ship, to convey her to a place of safety, +where she might lie concealed till they should have an opportunity +of sending her back to Huaheine.</p> + +<p>On the 27th, our observatories were taken down, and every +thing we had ashore carried on board; the moorings of the +ships were cast off, and we transported them a little way down +the harbour, where they came to an anchor again. Toward +the afternoon the natives began to shake off their fears, +gathering round and on board the ships as usual, and the +awkward transactions of the day before seemed to be forgotten +on both sides.</p> + +<p>The following night the wind blew in hard squalls from +S. to E. attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the +squalls, the cable by which the Resolution was riding, parted +just without the hawse. We had another anchor ready +to let go, so that the ship was presently brought up again. +In the afternoon the wind became moderate, and we hooked +the end of the best small bower-cable, and got it again +into the hawse.</p> + +<p>Oreo, the chief, being uneasy, as well as myself, that no +account had been received from Bolabola, set out this +evening for that island, and desired me to follow him the +next day with the ships. This was my intention, but the +wind would not admit of our getting to sea. But the same +wind which kept us in the harbour, brought Oreo back +from Bolabola, with the two deserters. They had reached +Otaha the same night they deserted; but, finding it impossible +to get to any of the islands to the eastward (which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page97" id="page97"></a>[pg 97]</span> +was their intention) for want of wind, they had proceeded +to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island Toobaee, +where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in consequence +of the first message sent to Opoony. As soon as +they were on board, the three prisoners were released. +Thus ended an affair which had given me much trouble +and vexation. Nor would I have exerted myself so resolutely +on the occasion, but for the reasons before mentioned, +and to save the son of a brother officer from being lost +to his country.</p> + +<p>The wind continued constantly between the N. and W. +and confined us in the harbour till eight o'clock in the +morning of the 7th of December, when we took the advantage +of a light breeze which then sprung up at N.E., +and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, +with the Discovery in company.</p> + +<p>During the last week we had been visited by people +from all parts of the island, who furnished us with a large +stock of hogs and green plantains. So that the time we lay +wind-bound in the harbour was not entirely lost; green +plantains being an excellent substitute for bread, as they +will keep good a fortnight or three weeks. Besides this +supply of provisions, we also completed our wood and water.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Ulietea seemed, in general, smaller +and blacker than those of the other neighbouring islands, +and appeared also less orderly, which, perhaps, may be +considered as the consequence of their having become +subject to the natives of Bolabola. Oreo, their chief, is +only a sort of deputy of the sovereign of that island; and +the conquest seems to have lessened the number of subordinate +chiefs resident among them; so that they are less +immediately under the inspection of those whose interest +it is to enforce due obedience to authority. Ulietea, though +now reduced to this humiliating state, was formerly, as we +were told, the most eminent of this cluster of islands, and, +probably, the first seat of government; for, they say, that +the present royal family of Otaheite is descended from +that which reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, +the dethroned monarch of Ulietea, was still alive when we +were at Huaheine, where he resides, a royal wanderer, furnishing, +in his person, an instance of the instability of +power; but, what is more remarkable, of the respect paid +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page98" id="page98"></a>[pg 98]</span> +by these people to particular families, and to the customs +which have once conferred sovereignty; for they suffer Ooroo +to preserve all the ensigns which they appropriate to +majesty, though he has lost his dominions.</p> + +<p>We saw a similar instance of this while we were at +Ulietea. One of the occasional visitors I now had was my +old friend Oree, the late chief of Huaheine. He still preserved +his consequence; came always at the head of a numerous +body of attendants, and was always provided with +such presents as were very acceptable. This chief looked +much better now than I had ever seen him during either +of my former voyages. I could account for his improving +in health as he grew older, only from his drinking less copiously +of <i>ava</i> in his present station as a private gentleman, +than he had been accustomed to do when he was regent.<a id="footnotetag19" name="footnotetag19"></a><a href="#footnote19"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote18" name="footnote18"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag18"> (return) </a><p>Perhaps they owed their safety principally to Captain Clerke's +walking +with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. This circumstance is +omitted both in Captain Cook's and Mr Andersen's journal, but it is +here +mentioned on the authority of Captain King.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote19" name="footnote19"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag19"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook had seen Oree in 1769, when he commanded the +Endeavour; +also twice during his second voyage in 1772.—D.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page99" id="page99"></a>[pg 99]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION VIII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Arrival at Bolabola.—Interview with Opoony.—Reasons for +purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor.—Departure +from the Society Islands.—Particulars about Bolabola.—History +of the Conquest of Otaha and Ulieta.—High +Reputation of the Bolabola Men.—Animals left there and +at Ulietea.—Plentiful Supply of Provisions, and Manner +of salting Pork on Board.—Various Reflections relative to +Otaheite and the Society Islands.—Astronomical and Nautical +Observations made there.</i></blockquote> + +<p>As soon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took our +leave of Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if +not sole object I had in view by visiting that island was, to +procure from its monarch, Opoony, one of the anchors +which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite. +This having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, +had, as they informed me, been sent by them as a present +to that chief. My desire to get possession of it did not +arise, from our being in want of anchors; but having expended +all the hatchets, and other iron tools which we had +brought from England, in purchasing refreshments, we +were now reduced to the necessity of creating a fresh assortment +of trading articles, by fabricating them out of the +spare iron we had on board; and in such conversions, and +in the occasional uses of the ships, great part of that had +been already expended. I thought that M. de Bougainville's +anchor would supply our want of this useful material; +and I made no doubt that I should be able to tempt +Opoony to part with it.</p> + +<p>Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a +passage with us to Bolabola. Indeed most of the natives in +general, except the chief himself, would have gladly taken +a passage with us to England. At sunset, being the length +of the south point of Bolabola, we shortened sail, and spent +the night making short boards. At day-break, on the 8th, +we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of +the island. The wind was scant, so that we had to ply up, +and it was nine o'clock before we got near enough to send +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page100" id="page100"></a>[pg 100]</span> +away a boat to sound the entrance, for I had thoughts of +running the ships in, and anchoring for a day or two.</p> + +<p>When the boat returned, the master, who was in her, +reported, that though at the entrance of the harbour the +bottom was rocky, there was good ground within, and the +depth of water twenty-seven and twenty-five fathoms; and +that there was room to turn the ships in, the channel being +one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this report, +we attempted to work the ships in. But the tide, as +well as the wind, being against us, after making two or +three trips, I found that it could not be done till the tide +should turn in our favour. Upon this I gave up the design +of carrying the ships into the harbour; and having ordered +the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one of them, +accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and was rowed +in for the island.</p> + +<p>We landed where the natives directed us, and soon after +I was introduced to Opoony, in the midst of a great +concourse of people. Having no time to lose, as soon as +the necessary formality of compliments was over, I asked +the chief to give me the anchor, and produced the present +I had prepared for him, consisting of a linen night-gown, +a shirt, some gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some +beads and other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these +last there was a general outcry. I could only guess the +cause, by Opoony's absolutely refusing to receive my present +till I should get the anchor. He ordered three men to +go and deliver it to me; and, as I understood, I was to +send by them what I thought proper in return. With these +messengers we set out in our boat for an island, lying at +the north side of the entrance into the harbour, where the +anchor had been deposited. I found it to be neither so +large nor so perfect as I expected. It had originally weighed +seven hundred pounds, according to the mark that was +upon it; but the ring, with part of the shank and two +palms, were now wanting. I was no longer at a loss to +guess the reason of Opoony's refusing my present. He +doubtless thought that it so much exceeded the value of +the anchor in its present state, that I should be displeased +when I saw it. Be this as it may, I took the anchor as I +found it, and sent him every article of the present that I +at first intended. Having thus completed my negociation, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page101" id="page101"></a>[pg 101]</span> +I returned on board, and having hoisted in the boats, made +sail from the island to the north.<a id="footnotetag20" name="footnotetag20"></a><a href="#footnote20"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives +came off in three or four canoes to see the ships, as they +said. They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one +pig, which was the only one we got at the island. I make +no doubt, however, that if we had staid till the next day, we +should have been plentifully supplied with provisions; and +I think the natives would feel themselves disappointed +when they found that we were gone. But as we had already +a very good stock, both of hogs and of fruit on +board, and very little of any thing left to purchase more, +I could have no inducement to defer any longer the prosecution +of our voyage.</p> + +<p>The harbour of Bolabola, called Oteavanooa, situated +on the west side of the island, is one of the most capacious +that I ever met with; and though we did not enter it, it +was a satisfaction to me that I had an opportunity of employing +my people to ascertain its being a very proper +place for the reception of ships.</p> + +<p>The high double-peaked mountain, which is in the +middle of the island, appeared to be barren on the east +side; but on the west side, has trees or bushes on its most +craggy parts. The lower grounds, all round toward the +sea, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page102" id="page102"></a>[pg 102]</span> +like the other islands of this ocean; and the many little +islets that surrounded it on the inside of the reef, add both +to the amount of its vegetable productions and to the number +of its inhabitants.</p> + +<p>But still, when we consider its very small extent, being +not more than eight leagues in compass, it is rather remarkable +that its people should have attempted, or have +been able to atchieve the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, +the former of which islands is, of itself, at least double its +size. In each of my three voyages, we had heard much of +the war that produced this great revolution. The result of +our enquiries, as to the circumstances attending it, may +amuse the reader; and I give it as a specimen of the history +of our friends, in this part of the world, as related to +us by themselves.<a id="footnotetag22" name="footnotetag22"></a><a href="#footnote22"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>Ulietea, and Otaha which adjoins it, lived long in friendship, +or, as the natives express it, were considered as two +brothers, inseparable by any interested views. They also +admitted the island of Huaheine as their friend, though +not so intimate. Otaha, however, like a traitor, leagued +with Bolabola, and they resolved jointly to attack Ulietea; +whose people called in their friends of Huaheine to assist +them against these two powers. The men of Bolabola were +encouraged by a priestess, or rather prophetess, who foretold +that they should be successful; and, as a proof of the +certainty of her prediction, she desired, that a man might +be sent to the sea, at a particular place, where, from a +great depth, a stone would ascend. He went, accordingly, +in a canoe to the place mentioned; and was going to +dive to see where this stone lay, when, behold, it started up +to the surface spontaneously into his hand! The people +were astonished at the sight: The stone was deposited as +sacred in the house of the <i>Eatooa</i>; and is still preserved at +Bolabola, as a proof of this woman's influence with the divinity. +Their spirits being thus elevated with the hopes of +victory, the canoes of Bolabola set out to engage those of +Ulietea and Huaheine, which being strongly fastened together +with ropes, the encounter lasted long, and would +probably, notwithstanding the prediction and the miracle, +have ended in the overthrow of the Bolabola fleet, if that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page103" id="page103"></a>[pg 103]</span> +of Otaha had not, in the critical moment, arrived. This +turned the fortune of the day, and their enemies were defeated +with great slaughter. The men of Bolabola, prosecuting +their victory, invaded Huaheine two days after, +which they knew must be weakly defended, as most of its +warriors were absent. Accordingly, they made themselves +masters of that island. But many of its fugitives having +got to Otaheite, there told their lamentable story; which +so grieved those of their countrymen, and of Ulietea, whom, +they met with in that island, that they obtained some assistance +from them. They were equipped with only ten +fighting canoes; but, though their force was so inconsiderable, +they conducted the expedition with so much prudence, +that they landed at Huaheine at night, when dark, +and, falling upon the Bolabola men by surprise, killed +many of them, forcing the rest to fly. So that, by this +means, they got possession of their island again, which +now remains independent, under the government of its +own chiefs. Immediately after the defeat of the united +fleets of Ulietea and Huaheine, a proposal was made to +the Bolabola men by their allies of Otaha, to be admitted +to an equal share of the conquests. The refusal of this +broke the alliance; and in the course of the war, Otaha +itself, as well as Ulietea, was conquered; and both now remain +subject to Bolabola; the chiefs who govern them being +only deputies of Opoony, the sovereign of that island. +In the reduction of the two islands, five battles were fought +at different places, in which great numbers were slain on +both sides.</p> + +<p>Such was the account we received. I have more than +once remarked, how very imperfectly these people recollect +the exact dates of past events. And with regard to this +war, though it happened not many years ago, we could +only guess at the time of its commencement and its conclusion, +from collateral circumstances, furnished by our +own observation, as the natives could not satisfy our enquiries +with any precision. The final conquest of Ulietea, +which closed the war, we know had been made before I +was there in the Endeavour, in 1769; but we may infer, +that peace had not been very long restored, as we could +then see marks of recent hostilities having been committed +upon that island. Some additional light may be thrown +upon this enquiry, by attending to the age of Teereetareea, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page104" id="page104"></a>[pg 104]</span> +the present chief of Huaheine. His looks shewed that he +was not above ten or twelve years old; and we were informed +that his father had been killed in one of the battles. +As to the time when the war began, we had no better rule +for judging than this, that the young people of about twenty +years of age, of whom we made enquiries, could scarcely +remember the first battles; and I have already mentioned, +that Omai's countrymen, whom we found at Wateoo, knew +nothing of this war; so that its commencement was subsequent +to their voyage.</p> + +<p>Ever since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolabola +men have been considered by their neighbours as invincible; +and such is the extent of their fame, that even +at Otaheite, which is almost out of their reach, if they are +not dreaded, they are, at least, respected for their valour. +It is said that they never fly in battle, and that they always +beat an equal number of the other islanders. But, +besides these advantages, their neighbours seem to ascribe +a great deal to the superiority of their god, who, they believed, +detained us at Ulietea by contrary winds, as being +unwilling that we should visit an island under his special +protection.</p> + +<p>How high the Bolabola men are now in estimation at +Otaheite, may be inferred from Monsieur de Bougainville's +anchor having been conveyed to them. To the same cause +we must ascribe the intention of transporting to their island +the Spanish bull. And they had already got possession of +a third European curiosity, the male of another animal, +brought to Otaheite by the Spaniards. We had been, +much puzzled, by the imperfect description of the natives, +to guess what this could be; but Captain Clerke's deserters, +when brought back from Bolabola, told me, that the +animal had been there shewn to them, and that it was a +ram. It seldom happens but that some good arises out of +evil, and if our two men had not deserted, I should not +have known this. In consequence of their information, at +the same time that I landed to meet Opoony, I carried +ashore a ewe, which we had brought from the Cape of Good +Hope; and I hope that by this present I have laid the +foundation for a breed of sheep at Bolabola. I also left at +Ulietea, under the care of Oreo, an English boar and sow, +and two goats. So that not only Otaheite, but all the +neighbouring islands, will, in a few years, have their race +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page105" id="page105"></a>[pg 105]</span> +of hogs considerably improved; and, probably, be stocked +with all the valuable animals which have been transported +hither by their European visitors.</p> + +<p>When once this comes to pass, no part of the world +will equal these islands in variety and abundance of refreshments +for navigators. Indeed, even in their present +state, I know no place that excels them. After repeated +trials in the course of several voyages we find, when they +are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with +one another, which has been the case for some years past, +that their productions are in the greatest plenty; and, particularly, +the most valuable of all the articles, their hogs.</p> + +<p>If we had had a larger assortment of goods, and a sufficient +quantity of salt on board, I make no doubt that we +might have salted as much pork as would have served both +ships near twelve months. But our visiting the Friendly +Islands, and our long stay at Otaheite and the neigbourhood, +quite exhausted our trading commodities, particularly +our axes, with which alone, hogs, in general, were to +be purchased. And we had hardly salt enough to cure fifteen +puncheons of meat; of these, five were added to our +stock of provisions at the Friendly Islands, and the other +ten at Otaheite. Captain Clerke also salted a proportionable +quantity for his ship.</p> + +<p>The process was the same that had been adopted by me +in my last voyage; and it may be worth while to describe +it again. The hogs were killed in the evening; as soon +as they were cleaned, they were cut up, the bone taken +out, and the meat salted when it was hot. It was then +laid in such a position as to permit the juices to drain from +it, till the next morning, when it was again salted, packed +into a cask, and covered with pickle. Here it remained +for four or five days, or a week; after which it was taken +out and examined, piece by piece, and if there was any +found to be in the least tainted, as sometimes happened, +it was separated from the rest, which was repacked into +another cask, headed up, and filled with good pickle. In +about eight or ten days time it underwent a second examination; +but this seemed unnecessary, as the whole was +generally found to be perfectly cured. A mixture of bay +and of white salt answers the best, but either of them will +do alone. Great care should be taken that none of the +large blood vessels remain in the meat; nor must too great +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page106" id="page106"></a>[pg 106]</span> +a quantity be packed together, at the first salting, lest the +pieces in the middle should heat, and, by that means, prevent +the salt from penetrating them. This once happened +to us, when we killed a larger quantity than usual. Rainy +sultry weather is unfavourable for salting meat in tropical +climates.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the frequent visits Europeans have lately made +to these islanders, may be one great inducement to their +keeping up a large stock of hogs, as they have had experience +enough to know, that, whenever we come, they may +be sure of getting from us what they esteem a valuable +consideration for them. At Otaheite they expect the return +of the Spaniards every day, and they will look for the +English two or three years hence, not only there, but at the +other islands. It is to no purpose to tell them that you +will not return; they think you must, though not one of +them knows, or will give himself the trouble to enquire, the +reason of your coming.</p> + +<p>I own I cannot avoid expressing it as my real opinion, +that it would have been far better for these poor people, +never to have known our superiority in the accommodations +and arts that make life comfortable, than, after once +knowing it, to be again left and abandoned to their original +incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they cannot be +restored to that happy mediocrity in which they lived before +we discovered them, if the intercourse between us +should be discontinued. It seems to me that it has become +in a manner incumbent on the Europeans to visit +them once in three or four years, in order to supply them +with those conveniences which we have introduced among +them, and have given them a predilection for. The want +of such occasional supplies will probably be felt very heavily +by them, when it may be too late to go back to their +old less perfect contrivances, which they now despise, and +have discontinued since the introduction of ours. For by +the time that the iron tools, of which they are now possessed, +are worn out, they will have almost lost the knowledge +of their own. A stone-hatchet is, at present, as rare a thing +amongst them, as an iron one was eight years ago; and a +chisel of bone or stone is not to be seen. Spike-nails have +supplied the place of these last, and they are weak enough +to fancy that they have got an inexhaustible store of them; +for these were not now at all sought after. Sometimes, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page107" id="page107"></a>[pg 107]</span> +however, nails much smaller than a spike would still be taken +in exchange for fruit. Knives happened, at present, +to be in great esteem at Ulietea, and axes and hatchets remained +unrivalled by any other of our commodities at all +the islands. With respect to articles of mere ornament, +these people are as changeable as any of the polished nations +of Europe; so that what pleases their fancy, while a +fashion is in vogue, may be rejected, when another whim +has supplanted it. But our iron tools are so strikingly useful, +that they will, we may confidently pronounce, continue +to prize them highly; and be completely miserable, +if, neither possessing the materials, nor trained up to the +art of fabricating them, they should cease to receive supplies +of what may now be considered as having become necessary +to their comfortable existence.<a id="footnotetag23" name="footnotetag23"></a><a href="#footnote23"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>Otaheite, though not comprehended in the number of +what we have called the Society Islands, being inhabited +by the same race of men, agreeing in the same leading +features of character and manners, it was fortunate, that +we happened to discover this principal island before the +others; as the friendly and hospitable reception we there +met with, of course, led us to make it the principal place +of resort, in our successive visits to this part of the Pacific +Ocean. By the frequency of this intercourse, we have had +better opportunities of knowing something about it and its +inhabitants, than about the other similar but less considerable +islands in its vicinity. Of these, however, we have +seen enough to satisfy us, that all that we observed and +have related of Otaheite, may, with trifling variations, be +applied to them.</p> + +<p>Too much seems to have been already known and published +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page108" id="page108"></a>[pg 108]</span> +in our former relations, about some of the modes of +life that made Otaheite so agreeable an abode to many on +board our ships; and, if I could now add any finishing +strokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been already +drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated +to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious +manners, which could only serve to disgust those +for whose information I write. There are, however, many +parts of the domestic, political, and religious institutions of +these people, which, after all our visits to them, are but imperfectly +understood. The foregoing narrative of the incidents +that happened during our stay, will probably be +thought to throw some additional light; and, for farther +satisfaction, I refer to Mr Anderson's remarks.</p> + +<p>Amidst our various subordinate employments, while at +these islands, the great objects of our duty were always attended +to. No opportunity was lost of making astronomical +and nautical observations; from which the following +table was drawn up:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center" cellspacing="10"> +<tr><th align="center">Place.</th><th align="center">Latitude.</th><th align="center">Longitude.</th><th align="center">Variation of</th><th align="center">Dip of the</th></tr> +<tr><th align="center"> </th><th align="center">South.</th><th align="center">East</th><th align="center">the Compass.</th><th align="center">Needle.</th></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Matavai Point, Otaheite,</td><td align="left">17° 24-1/4'</td><td align="left">210° 22' 28"</td><td align="left">5° 34' East</td><td align="left">29° 12'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Owharre Harbour, Huaheine,</td><td align="left">16° 42-3/4'</td><td align="left">208° 52' 24"</td><td align="left">5° 13-1/2" East</td><td align="left">28° 28'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Ohamaneno Harbour, Ulietea,</td><td align="left">16° 45-1/2'</td><td align="left">208° 25' 22"</td><td align="left">6° 19' East</td><td align="left">29° 5'</td></tr> + +</table> + +<p>[<i>Transcriber's Note</i>: It is possible that the compass variation at Owharre Harbour should read 5° 13-1/2' +not 5° 13-1/2" (minutes not seconds)]</p> + +<p>The longitude of the three several places is deduced from +the mean of 145 sets of observations made on shore; some +at one place, and some at another; and carried on to each +of the stations by the time-keeper. As the situation of +these places was very accurately settled, during my former +voyages, the above observations were now made chiefly +with a view of determining how far a number of lunar observations +might be depended upon, and how near they +would agree with those made upon the same spot in 1769, +which fixed Matavai Point to be in 210° 27' 30". The difference, +it appears, is only of 5' 2"; and, perhaps, no other +method could have produced a more perfect agreement. +Without pretending to say which of the two computations +is the nearest the truth, the longitude of 210° 22' 28", or, +which is the same thing, 208° 25' 22", will be the longitude +we shall reckon from with the time-keeper, allowing it to be +losing, on mean time, 1,"69 each day, as found by the mean +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page109" id="page109"></a>[pg 109]</span> +of all the observations made at these islands for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On our arrival at Otaheite, the error of the time-keeper +in longitude was,</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">by</td><td align="right">Greenwich rate,</td><td align="left">1° 18' 58"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">Tongataboo rate,</td><td align="left">0° 16' 40"</td></tr> + </table> + +<p>Some observations were also made on the tide; particularly +at Otaheite and Ulietea, with a view of ascertaining +its greatest rise at the first place. When we were there, +in my second voyage, Mr Wales thought he had discovered +that it rose higher than I had observed it to do, when I +first visited Otaheite, in 1769. But the observations we +now made proved that it did not; that is, that it never +rose higher than twelve or fourteen inches at most. And +it was observed to be high-water nearly at noon, as well at +the quadratures, as at the full and change of the moon.</p> + +<p>To verify this, the following observations were made at +Ulietea:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center" cellspacing="5"> +<tr><th align="center">Day of</th><th colspan="2" align="center">Water at a stand</th><th align="center">Mean Time</th><th align="center">Perpendicular</th></tr> +<tr><th align="center">the</th><th align="center"></th><th align="center"></th><th align="center">of</th><th align="center">rise</th></tr> +<tr><th align="center">Month.</th><th align="center">from</th><th align="center">to</th><th align="center">High Water.</th><th align="center">Inches.</th></tr> +<tr><td align="right">November 6.</td><td align="center">11h 15m</td><td align="center">12h 20m</td><td align="center">11h 48m</td><td align="center">5,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">7.</td><td align="center">11 40</td><td align="center">1 00</td><td align="center">12 20</td><td align="center">5,2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">8.</td><td align="center">11 35</td><td align="center">12 50</td><td align="center">12 12</td><td align="center">5,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">9.</td><td align="center">11 40</td><td align="center">1 16</td><td align="center">12 28</td><td align="center">5,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">10.</td><td align="center">11 25</td><td align="center">1 10</td><td align="center">12 18</td><td align="center">6,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">11.</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">1 40</td><td align="center">12 20</td><td align="center">5,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">12.</td><td align="center">11 00</td><td align="center">1 05</td><td align="center">12 02</td><td align="center">5,7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">13.</td><td align="center">9 30</td><td align="center">11 40</td><td align="center">10 35</td><td align="center">8,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">14.</td><td align="center">11 10</td><td align="center">12 50</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">8,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">15.</td><td align="center">9 20</td><td align="center">11 30</td><td align="center">10 25</td><td align="center">9,2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">16.</td><td align="center">10 00</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">11 00</td><td align="center">9,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">17.</td><td align="center">10 45</td><td align="center">12 15</td><td align="center">11 30</td><td align="center">8,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">18.</td><td align="center">10 25</td><td align="center">12 10</td><td align="center">11 18</td><td align="center">9,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19.</td><td align="center">11 00</td><td align="center">1 00</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">8,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">20.</td><td align="center">11 30</td><td align="center">2 00</td><td align="center">12 45</td><td align="center">7,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">21.</td><td align="center">11 00</td><td align="center">1 00</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">8,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">22.</td><td align="center">11 30</td><td align="center">1 07</td><td align="center">12 18</td><td align="center">8,0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">23.</td><td align="center">12 00</td><td align="center">1 30</td><td align="center">12 45</td><td align="center">6,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">24.</td><td align="center">11 30</td><td align="center">1 40</td><td align="center">12 35</td><td align="center">5,5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">25.</td><td align="center">11 40</td><td align="center">1 50</td><td align="center">12 45</td><td align="center">4,7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">26.</td><td align="center">11 00</td><td align="center">1 30</td><td align="center">12 15</td><td align="center">5,2</td></tr> +</table> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page110" id="page110"></a>[pg 110]</span> + +<p>Having now finished all that occurs to me, with regard +to these islands, which make so conspicuous a figure in the +list of our discoveries, the reader will permit me to suspend +the prosecution of my journal, while he peruses the following +section, for which I am indebted to Mr Anderson.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote20" name="footnote20"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag20"> (return) </a><p>Here again is a trait of genuine nobility, sufficient, we have no +doubt, to reinstate our commander in the good graces of every reader. +On the other hand, there is something so truly honest on the part of +Opoony and his people in declining the acceptance of the present, till +Cook had seen the article he was bargaining for, that we cannot help +giving them high credit for moral attainments. How forcibly does such a +conduct prove the existence of a sense of the law, which says, "Do to +others, as you would that others should do to you." It is curious, that +some authors have maintained, that no such law is recognised among mankind +till they are made acquainted with divine revelation. But these +persons have confounded together two things, which are quite distinct,—a +sense of the obligation of such a law, and a disposition and power to +obey it. The former may exist, and indeed more generally does exist, +without the latter. But we see, by the present example, that both may +operate, where, according to this opinion, no such thing as either could +be found. Here, however, we would not take it upon us to affirm any +thing in respect of the motives which influenced the obedience. In so +far as our fellow-creatures alone are concerned, it is barely and simply +our actions which ought to be considered. It is the prerogative of a higher +tribunal to judge of the heart and the principles it contains.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote22" name="footnote22"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag22"> (return) </a><p>For this, as for many other particulars about these people, we are +indebted to Mr Anderson.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote23" name="footnote23"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag23"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook's reasoning here is irresistibly convincing; yet it is +very remarkable that no practical benefit resulted from it, in favour of the +people whose cause he pleads. One can scarcely account, far less apologize, +for the extraordinary fact, that nearly eleven years, from the date +of this voyage, had elapsed, before any British vessel touched at Otaheite, +and that even then the visit was an accidental one. Soon afterwards, however, +Lieutenant Bligh was ordered to visit it, for the purpose, not of conferring +benefits on it, but of procuring the bread-fruit tree, for our West +India possessions. Of the changes which had happened in that interval, +it would be improper to make any mention in this place. The reader +nevertheless may be informed, that much of the evil, which Captain +Cook had foreseen, really occurred. The want of iron tools especially +was most severely felt.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION IX.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect.—The prevailing Winds.—Beauty of the +Country.—Cultivation.—Natural Curiosities.—The +Persons of the Natives.—Diseases.—General Character.—Love +of Pleasure.—Language.—Surgery and Physic.—Articles +of Food.—Effects of drinking Ava.—Times and +Manner of Eating.—Connexions with the Females.—Circumcision.—System of +Religion.—Notions about the Soul +and a future Life.—Various Superstitions.—Traditions +about the Creation.—An historical Legend.—Honours paid +to the King.—Distinction of Ranks.—Punishment of Crimes.—Peculiarities of the +neighbouring Islands.—Names of their +Gods.—Names of Islands they visit.—Extent of their Navigation.</i></blockquote> + +<p>To what has been said of Otaheite, in the accounts of +the successive voyages of Captain Wallis, Mons. de Bougainville, +and Captain Cook, it would, at first sight, seem +superfluous to add any thing, as it might be supposed, that +little could be now produced but a repetition of what has +been told before. I am, however, far from being of that +opinion; and will venture to affirm, though a very accurate +description of the country, and of the most obvious customs +of its inhabitants, has been already given, especially +by Captain Cook, that much still remains untouched; that, +in some instances, mistakes have been made, which later +and repeated observation has been able to rectify; and +that, even now, we are strangers to many of the most important +institutions that prevail amongst these people. The +truth is, our visits, though frequent, have been but transient; +many of us had no inclination to make enquiries; +more of us were unable to direct our enquiries properly; +and we all laboured, though not to the same degree, under +the disadvantages attending an imperfect knowledge of the +language of those, from whom alone we could receive any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page111" id="page111"></a>[pg 111]</span> +information. The Spaniards had it more in their power to +surmount this bar to instruction; some of them having resided +at Otaheite much longer than any other European visitors. +As, with their superior advantages, they could not +but have had an opportunity of obtaining the fullest information +on most subjects relating to this island, their account +of it would, probably, convey more authentic and +accurate intelligence, than, with our best endeavours, any +of us could possibly obtain. But, as I look upon it to be +very uncertain, if not very unlikely, that we shall ever have +any communication from that quarter, I have here put together +what additional intelligence, about Otaheite, and its +neighbouring islands, I was able to procure, either from, +Omai, while on board the ship, or by conversing with the +other natives, while we remained among them.</p> + +<p>The wind, for the greatest part of the year, blows from +between E.S.E., and E.N.E. This is the true trade-wind, +or what the natives call <i>Maaraee</i>; and it sometimes blows +with considerable force. When this is the case, the weather +is often cloudy, with showers of rain; but, when the +wind is more moderate, it is clear, settled, and serene. If +the wind should veer farther to the southward, and become +S.E., or S.S.E., it then blows more gently, with a smooth +sea, and is called <i>Maooui</i>. In those months, when the sun +is nearly vertical, that is, in December and January, the +winds and weather are both very variable; but it frequently +blows from W.N.W., or N.W. This wind is what they +call <i>Toerou</i>; and is generally attended by dark, cloudy +weather, and frequently by rain, it sometimes blows +strong, though generally moderate; but seldom lasts longer +than five or six days without interruption; and is the only +wind in which the people of the islands to leeward come to +this in their canoes. If it happens to be still more northerly, +it blows with less strength, and has the different appellation +of <i>Era-potaia</i>; which they feign to be the wife of the +<i>Toerou</i>; who, according to their mythology, is a male.</p> + +<p>The wind from S.W., and W.S.W., is still more frequent +than the former; and, though it is, in general, gentle, and +interrupted by calms, or breezes from the eastward, yet it +sometimes blows in brisk squalls. The weather attending +it is commonly dark; cloudy, and rainy, with a close, hot +air; and often accompanied by a great deal of lightning +and thunder. It is called <i>Etoa</i>, and often succeeds the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page112" id="page112"></a>[pg 112]</span> +<i>Toerou</i>; as does also the <i>Farooa</i>, which is still more southerly; +and, from its violence, blows down houses and +trees, especially the cocoa-palms, from their loftiness; but +it is only of a short duration.</p> + +<p>The natives seem not to have a very accurate knowledge +of these changes, and yet pretend to have drawn some general +conclusions from their effects; for they say, when the +sea has a hollow sound, and dashes slowly on the shore, or +rather on the reef without, that it portends good weather, +but, if it has a sharp sound, and the waves succeed each +other fast, that the reverse will happen.</p> + +<p>Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords +a more luxuriant prospect than the S.E. part of Otaheite. +The hills are high and steep; and, in many places, +craggy. But they are covered to the very summits with +trees and shrubs, in such a manner, that the spectator can +scarcely help thinking, that the very rocks possess the property +of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. +The flat land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and +the interjacent valleys also, teem with various productions +that grow with the most exuberant vigour, and at once fill +the mind of the beholder with the idea, that no place upon +earth can out-do this, in the strength and beauty of vegetation. +Nature has been no less liberal in distributing rivulets, +which are found in every valley; and as they approach +the sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilizing +the flat lands through which they run. The habitations of +the natives are scattered without order upon these flats; +and many of them appearing toward the shore, presented a +delightful scene, viewed from our ships; especially as the +sea within the reef, which bounds the coast, is perfectly +still, and affords a safe navigation at all times for the inhabitants, +who are often seen paddling in their canoes indolently +along in passing from place to place, or in going to +fish. On viewing these charming scenes, I have often regretted +my inability to transmit to those who have had no +opportunity of seeing them, such a description as might, in +some measure, convey an impression similar to what must +be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough to be +upon the spot.</p> + +<p>It is doubtless the natural fertility of the country, combined +with the mildness and serenity of the climate, that +renders the natives so careless in their cultivation, that, in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page113" id="page113"></a>[pg 113]</span> +many places, though, overflowing with the richest productions, +the smallest traces of it cannot be observed. The +cloth-plant, which is raised by seeds brought from the +mountains, and the <i>ava</i>, or intoxicating pepper, which they +defend from the sun when very young, by covering them +with leaves of the bread-fruit tree, are almost the only +things to which they seem to pay any attention, and these +they keep very clean.</p> + +<p>I have enquired very carefully into their manner of cultivating +the bread-fruit tree, but was always answered that +they never planted it. This, indeed, must be evident to +every one who will examine the places where the young +trees come up. It will be always observed that they spring +from the roots of the old ones, which ran along near the +surface of the ground; so that the bread-fruit trees may be +reckoned those that would naturally cover the plains, even +supposing that the island was not inhabited, in the same +manner that the white-barked trees, found at Van Diemen's +Land, constitute the forests there. And from this we may +observe, that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of being +obliged to plant his bread, will rather be under a necessity +of preventing its progress; which, I suppose, is sometimes +done, to give room for trees of another sort, to afford him +some variety in his food.</p> + +<p>The chief of these are the cocoa-nut and plantain; the +first of which can give no trouble, after it has raised itself +a foot or two above the ground; but the plantain requires +a little more care; for, after it is planted, it shoots up, and, +in about three months, begins to bear fruit; during which +time it gives young shoots, which supply a succession of +fruit. For the old stocks are cut down as the fruit is taken +off.</p> + +<p>The products of the island, however, are not so remarkable +for their variety, as great abundance; and curiosities +of any kind are not numerous. Amongst these we may +reckon a pond or lake of fresh water at the top of one of +the highest mountains, to go to and return from which +takes three or four days; it is remarkable for its depth, and +has eels of an enormous size in it, which are sometimes +caught by the natives, who go upon this water, in little +floats of two or three wild plantain trees fastened together. +This is esteemed one of the greatest natural curiosities of +the country; insomuch, that travellers, who come from the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page114" id="page114"></a>[pg 114]</span> +other islands, are commonly asked, amongst the first things, +by their friends, at their return, if they have seen it? There +is also a sort of water, of which there is only one small pond +upon the island, as far distant as the lake, and, to appearance, +very good, with a yellow sediment at the bottom; +but it has a bad taste, and proves fatal to those who drink +any quantity, or makes them break out in blotches if they +bathe in it.</p> + +<p>Nothing could make a stronger impression, at first sight, +on our arrival here, than the remarkable contrast between +the robust make and dark colour of the people of Tongataboo, +and a sort of delicacy and whiteness which distinguish +the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even some time before +that difference could preponderate in favour of the Otaheiteans; +and then only, perhaps, because we became accustomed +to them, the marks which had recommended the +others began to be forgotten. Their women, however, +struck us as superior in every respect, and as possessing all +those delicate characteristics which distinguish them from, +the other sex in many countries. The beard, which the +men here wear long, and the hair, which is not cut so +short as is the fashion at Tongataboo, made also a great +difference; and we could not help thinking that on every +occasion they shewed a greater degree of timidity and +fickleness. The muscular appearance, so common amongst +the Friendly Islanders, and which seems a consequence of +their being accustomed to much action, is lost here, where +the superior fertility of their country enables the inhabitants +to lead a more indolent life; and its place is supplied +by a plumpness and smoothness of the skin, which, though +perhaps more consonant with our ideas of beauty, is no +real advantage, as it seems attended with a kind of languor +in all their motions, not observable in the others. This observation +is fully verified in their boxing and wrestling, +which may be called little better than the feeble efforts of +children, if compared to the vigour with which these exercises +are performed at the Friendly Islands.</p> + +<p>Personal endowments being in great esteem amongst +them, they have recourse to several methods of improving +them, according to their notions of beauty. In particular, +it is a practice, especially among the <i>Erreoes</i>, or unmarried +men of some consequence, to undergo a kind of physical +operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page115" id="page115"></a>[pg 115]</span> +a month or two in the house; during which time they wear +a great quantity of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit, to +which they ascribe a remarkable property in whitening +them. They also speak, as if their corpulence and colour, +at other times, depended upon their food; as they are obliged, +from the change of seasons, to use different sorts at +different times.</p> + +<p>Their common diet is made up of, at least, nine-tenths of +vegetable food, and, I believe, more particularly the <i>mahee</i>, +or fermented bread-fruit, which enters almost every meal, +has a remarkable effect upon them, preventing a costive +habit, and producing a very sensible coolness about them, +which could not be perceived in us who fed on animal +food. And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course +of life that they have so few diseases among them.</p> + +<p>They only reckon five or six, which might be called +chronic, or national disorders; amongst which are the +dropsy and the <i>fefai</i>, or indolent swellings before mentioned +as frequent at Tongataboo. But this was before the arrival +of the Europeans; for we have added to this short catalogue, +a disease which abundantly supplies the place of all +the others; and is now almost universal. For this they +seem to have no effectual remedy. The priests, indeed, +sometimes give them a medley of simples; but they own +that it never cures them. And yet they allow that in a few +cases, nature, without the assistance of a physician, exterminates +the poison of this fatal disease, and a perfect recovery +is produced. They say, that if a man is infected with +it, he will often communicate it to others in the same +house, by feeding out of the same utensils or handling +them; and that, in this case, they frequently die, while he +recovers; though we see no reason why this should happen.</p> + +<p>Their behaviour on all occasions seems to indicate a +great openness and generosity of disposition. Omai, indeed, +who, as their countryman, should be supposed rather +willing to conceal any of their defects, has often said that +they are sometimes cruel in punishing their enemies. According +to his representation, they torment them very deliberately; +at one time tearing out small pieces of flesh +from different parts; at another taking out the eyes; then +cutting off the nose; and, lastly, killing them by opening +the belly. But this only happens on particular occasions. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page116" id="page116"></a>[pg 116]</span> +If cheerfulness argues a conscious innocence, one would +suppose that their life is seldom sullied by crimes. This, +however, I rather impute to their feelings, which, though +lively, seem in no case permanent; for I never saw them, +in any misfortune, labour under the appearance of anxiety +after the critical moment was past. Neither does care +ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even +the approach of death does not appear to alter their usual +vivacity. I have seen them when brought to the brink of +the grave by disease, and when preparing to go to battle; +but in neither case ever observed their countenances overclouded +with melancholy or serious reflection.</p> + +<p>Such a disposition leads them to direct all their aims +only to what can give them pleasure and ease. Their +amusements all tend to excite and continue their amorous +passions; and their songs, of which they are immoderately +fond, answer the same purpose. But as a constant succession +of sensual enjoyments must cloy, we found, that they +frequently varied them to more refined subjects, and had +much pleasure in chaunting their triumphs in war, and +their occupations in peace; their travels to other islands, +and adventures there; and the peculiar beauties, and superior +advantages of their own island over the rest, or of +different parts of it over other less favourite districts. This +marks, that they receive great delight from music; and +though they rather expressed a dislike to our complicated +compositions, yet were they always delighted with the +more melodious sounds produced singly on our instruments, +as approaching nearer to the simplicity of their own.</p> + +<p>Neither are they strangers to the soothing effects produced +by particular sorts of motion, which, in some cases, +seem to allay any perturbation of mind, with as much success +as music. Of this, I met with a remarkable instance. +For on walking one day about Matavai Point, where our +tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small canoe, +so quickly, and looking about with such eagerness, on each +side, as to command all my attention. At first, I imagined +that he had stolen something from one of the ships, and +was pursued; but, on waiting patiently, saw him repeat his +amusement. He went out from the shore, till he was near +the place where the swell begins to take its rise; and, +watching its first motion very attentively, paddled before it, +with great quickness, till he found that it overtook him, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page117" id="page117"></a>[pg 117]</span> +and had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before +it, without passing underneath. He then sat motionless, +and was carried along, at the same swift rate as the wave, +till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, +emptied his canoe, and went in search of another swell. +I could not help concluding, that this man felt the most +supreme pleasure, while he was driven on, so fast and so +smoothly, by the sea; especially as, though the tents and +ships were so near, he did not seem, in the least, to envy, +or even to take any notice of, the crowds of his countrymen +collected to view them as objects which were rare and +curious. During my stay, two or three of the natives came +up, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called out, +when there was an appearance of a favourable swell, as he +sometimes missed it, by his back being turned, and looking +about for it. By them I understood, that this exercise, +which is called <i>ehorooe</i>, was frequent amongst them; and +they have probably more amusements of this sort, which +afford them at least as much pleasure as skaiting, which +is the only one of ours, with whose effects I could compare +it.</p> + +<p>The language of Otaheite, though doubtless radically the +same with that of New Zealand and the Friendly Islands, +is destitute of that guttural pronunciation, and of some +consonants, with which those latter dialects abound. The +specimens we have already given are sufficient to mark +wherein the variation chiefly consists, and to shew, that, +like the manners of the inhabitants, it has become soft and +soothing. During the former voyage, I had collected a +copious vocabulary, which enabled me the better to compare +this dialect with that of the other islands; and, during +this voyage, I took every opportunity of improving my +acquaintance with it, by conversing with Omai, before we +arrived, and by my daily intercourse with the natives, while +we now remained there.<a id="footnotetag24" name="footnotetag24"></a><a href="#footnote24"><sup>1</sup></a> It abounds with beautiful and figurative +expressions, which, were it perfectly known, would, +I have no doubt, put it upon a level with many of the languages +that are most in esteem for their warm and bold +images. For instance, the Otaheiteans express their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page118" id="page118"></a>[pg 118]</span> +notions of death very emphatically, by saying, "That the +soul goes into darkness; or rather into night." And, if +you seem to entertain any doubt, in asking the question, +"if such a person is their mother?" they immediately reply, +with surprise, "Yes, the mother that bore me." They +have one expression, that corresponds exactly with the +phraseology of the scriptures, where we read of the "yearning +of the bowels." They use it on all occasions, when the +passions give them uneasiness; as they constantly refer +pain from grief, anxious desire, and other affections, to the +bowels, as its seat; where they likewise suppose all operations +of the mind are performed. Their language admits +of that inverted arrangement of words, which so much distinguishes +the Latin and Greek from most of our modern +European tongues, whose imperfections require a more orderly +construction, to prevent ambiguities. It is so copious, +that for the bread-fruit alone, in its different states, +they have above twenty names; as many for the <i>taro</i> root; +and about ten for the cocoa-nut. Add to this, that, besides +the common dialect, they often expostulate, in a kind of +stanza or recitative, which is answered in the same manner.</p> + +<p>Their arts are few and simple; yet, if we may credit +them, they perform cures in surgery, which our extensive +knowledge in that branch has not, as yet, enabled us to +imitate. In simple fractures, they bind them up with +splints; but if part of the substance of the bone be lost, +they insert a piece of wood, between the fractured ends, +made hollow like the deficient part. In five or six days, +the <i>rapaoo</i>, or surgeon, inspects the wound, and finds the +wood partly covered with growing flesh. In as many more +days, it is generally entirely covered; after which, when +the patient has acquired some strength, he bathes in the +water, and recovers. We know that wounds will heal over +leaden bullets; and, sometimes, though rarely, over other +extraneous bodies. But what makes me entertain some +doubt of the truth of so extraordinary skill, as in the above +instance, is, that in other cases which fell under my own +observation, they are far from being so dexterous. I have +seen the stump of an arm, which was taken off, after being +shattered by a fall from a tree, that bore no marks of skilful +operation, though some allowance be made for their +defective instruments. And I met with a man going about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page119" id="page119"></a>[pg 119]</span> +with a dislocated shoulder, some months after the accident, +from their being ignorant of a method to reduce it; though +this be considered as one of the simplest operations of our +surgery. They know that fractures or luxations of the +spine are mortal, but not fractures of the skull; and they +likewise know, from experience, in what parts of the body +wounds prove fatal. They have sometimes pointed out +those inflicted by spears, which, if made in the direction +they mentioned, would certainly have been pronounced +deadly by us, and yet these people have recovered.</p> + +<p>Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and +that, probably because their diseases are fewer than their +accidents. The priests, however, administer the juices of +herbs in some cases; and women who are troubled with +after-pains, or other disorders after child-bearing, use a remedy +which one would think needless in a hot country. +They first heat stones, as when they bake their food; then +they lay a thick cloth over them, upon which is put a quantity +of a small plant of the mustard kind; and these are +covered with another cloth. Upon this they seat themselves +and sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. The men +have practised the same method for the venereal <i>lues</i>, but +find it ineffectual. They have no emetic medicines.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the extreme fertility of the island, a +famine frequently happens, in which it is said many perish. +Whether this be owing to the failure of some seasons, to +over-population, which must sometimes almost necessarily +happen, or to wars, I have not been able to determine; +though the truth of the fact may fairly be inferred, from the +great economy that they observe with respect to their food, +even when there is plenty. In times of scarcity, after their +bread-fruit and yams are consumed, they have recourse to +various roots, which grow without cultivation upon the +mountains. The <i>patarra</i>, which is found in vast quantities, +is what they use first. It is not unlike a very large +potatoe or yam, and good when in its growing state; but +when old, is full of hard stringy fibres. They then eat +two other roots, one not unlike <i>taro</i>; and lastly, the <i>eohee</i>. +This is of two sorts; one of them possessing deleterious +qualities, which obliges them to slice and macerate it in +water a night before they bake and eat it. In this respect, +it resembles the <i>cassava</i> root of the West Indies; but it +forms a very insipid moist paste, in the manner they dress +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page120" id="page120"></a>[pg 120]</span> +it. However, I have seen them eat it at times when no +such scarcity reigned. Both this and the <i>patarra</i> are creeping +plants: the last with ternate leaves.</p> + +<p>Of animal food a very small portion falls at any time to +the share of the lower class of people, and then it is either +fish, sea-eggs, or other marine productions; for they seldom +or ever eat pork. The <i>Eree de hoi</i><a id="footnotetag25" name="footnotetag25"></a><a href="#footnote25"><sup>2</sup></a> alone is able to +furnish pork every day; and inferior chiefs, according to +their riches, once a week, fortnight, or month. Sometimes +they are not even allowed that; for, when the island is impoverished +by war or other causes, the chief prohibits his +subjects to kill any hogs; and this prohibition, we were +told, is in force sometimes for several months, or even for +a year or two. During that restraint the hogs multiply so +fast, that there are instances of their changing their domestic +state, and turning wild. When it is thought proper +to take off the prohibition, all the chiefs assemble at the +king's place of abode, and each brings with him a present +of hogs. The king then orders some of them to be killed, +on which they feast; and, after that, every one returns +home with liberty to kill what he pleases for his own use. +Such a prohibition was actually in force on our last arrival +here; at least in all those districts of the island that are +immediately under the direction of Otoo. And, lest it +should have prevented our going to Matavai after leaving +Oheitepeha, he sent a message to assure us, that it should +be taken off as soon as the ships arrived there. With respect +to us we found it so; but we made such a consumption +of them, that, I have no doubt, it would be laid on +again as soon as we sailed. A similar prohibition is also +sometimes extended to fowls.</p> + +<p>It is also amongst the better sort that the <i>ava</i> is chiefly +used. But this beverage is prepared somewhat differently, +from that which we saw so much of at the Friendly Islands. +For they pour a very small quantity of water upon the root +here, and sometimes roast or bake and bruise the stalks, +without chewing it previously to its infusion. They also +use the leaves of the plant here, which are bruised, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page121" id="page121"></a>[pg 121]</span> +water poured upon them, as upon the root. Large companies +do not assemble to drink it in that sociable way +which is practised at Tongataboo. But its pernicious effects +are more obvious here; perhaps owing to the manner +of preparing it, as we often saw instances of its intoxicating, +or rather stupifying powers. Some of us, who had +been at these islands before, were surprised to find many +people, who, when we saw them last, were remarkable for +their size and corpulency, now almost reduced to skeletons; +and, upon enquiring into the cause of this alteration, +it was universally allowed to be the use of the <i>ava</i>. The +skins of these people were rough, dry, and covered with +scales, which, they say, every now and then fall off, and +their skin is, as it were, renewed. As an excuse for a practice +so destructive, they allege, that it is adopted to prevent +their growing too fat; but it evidently enervates them, +and, in all probability, shortens their days. As its effects +had not been so visible during our former visits, it is not +unlikely that this article of luxury had never been so much +abused as at this time. If it continues to be so fashionable, +it bids fair to destroy great numbers.</p> + +<p>The times of eating at Otaheite are very frequent. Their +first meal, or (as it may rather be called) their last, as they +go to sleep after it, is about two o'clock in the morning; +and the next is at eight. At eleven, they dine; and again, +as Omai expressed it, at two, and at five; and sup at eight. +In this article of domestic life, they have adopted some +customs which are exceedingly whimsical. The women, +for instance, have not only the mortification of being obliged +to eat by themselves, and in a different part of the +house from the men, but, by a strange kind of policy, are +excluded from a share of most of the better sorts of food. +They dare not taste turtle, nor fish of the tunny kind, which +is much esteemed; nor some particular sorts of the best +plantains; and it is very seldom that even those of the first +rank are suffered to eat pork. The children of each sex +also eat apart; and the women generally serve up their +own victuals; for they would certainly starve before any +grown man would do them such an office. In this, as well +as in some other customs relative to their eating, there is a +mysterious conduct which we could never thoroughly comprehend. +When we enquired into the reasons of it, we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page122" id="page122"></a>[pg 122]</span> +could get no other answer, but that it is right and necessary +that it should be so.</p> + +<p>In other customs respecting the females, there seems to +be no such obscurity; especially as to their connexions +with the men. If a young man and woman, from mutual +choice, cohabit, the man gives the father of the girl such +things as are necessary in common life; as hogs, cloth, or +canoes, in proportion to the time they are together; and, +if he thinks that he has not been sufficiently paid for his +daughter, he makes no scruple of forcing her to leave her +friend, and to cohabit with another person who may be +more liberal. The man, on his part, is always at liberty to +make a new choice; but, should his consort become pregnant, +he may kill the child; and, after that, either continue +his connexion with the mother, or leave her. But if +he should adopt the child, and suffer it to live, the parties +are then considered as in the married state, and they commonly +live together ever after. However, it is thought no +crime in the man to join a more youthful partner to his first +wife, and to live with both. The custom of changing their +connexions is, however, much more general than this last; +and it is a thing so common, that they speak of it with +great indifference. The <i>Erreoes</i> are only those of the better +sort, who, from their fickleness, and their possessing the +means of purchasing a succession of fresh connexions, are +constantly roaming about; and, from having no particular +attachment, seldom adopt the more settled method mentioned +above. And so agreeable is this licentious plan of +life to their disposition, that the most beautiful of both +sexes thus commonly spend their youthful days, habituated +to the practice of enormities which would disgrace the most +savage tribes; but are peculiarly shocking amongst a people +whose general character, in other respects, has evident +traces of the prevalence of humane and tender feelings.<a id="footnotetag26" name="footnotetag26"></a><a href="#footnote26"><sup>3</sup></a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page123" id="page123"></a>[pg 123]</span> +When an <i>Erreoe</i> woman is delivered of a child, a piece of +cloth, dipped in water, is applied to the mouth and nose, +which suffocates it.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page124" id="page124"></a>[pg 124]</span> + +<p>As in such a life, their women must contribute a very +large share of its happiness, it is rather surprising, besides +the humiliating restraints they are laid under with regard +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page125" id="page125"></a>[pg 125]</span> +to food, to find them often treated with a degree of harshness, +or rather brutality, which one would scarcely suppose +a man would bestow on an object for whom he had the +least affection. Nothing, however, is more common, than +to see the men beat them without mercy; and, unless this +treatment is the effect of jealousy, which both sexes, at +least, pretend to be sometimes infected with, it will be difficult +to account for it. It will be less difficult to admit +this as the motive, as I have seen several instances where +the women have preferred personal beauty to interest; +though, I must own, that even in these cases, they seem +scarcely susceptible of those delicate sentiments that are +the result of mutual affection; and, I believe, that there is +less Platonic love in Otaheite than in any other country.</p> + +<p>Cutting, or inciding the foreskin, should be mentioned +here as a practice adopted amongst them from a notion of +cleanliness; and they have a reproachful epithet in their +language for those who do not observe that custom. When +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page126" id="page126"></a>[pg 126]</span> +there are five or six lads pretty well grown up in a neighbourhood, +the father of one of them goes to a <i>Tahoua</i>, or +man of knowledge, and lets him know. He goes with the +lads to the top of the hills, attended by a servant, and seating +one of them properly, introduces a piece of wood underneath +the foreskin, and desires him to look aside at +something he pretends is coming; having thus engaged +the young man's attention to another object, he cuts +through the skin upon the wood with a shark's tooth, generally +at one stroke. He then separates, or rather turns +back the divided parts; and having put on a bandage, proceeds +to perform the same operation on the other lads. At +the end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being +taken off, the matter is cleaned away. At the end of five +days more they bathe again, and are well; but a thickness +of the prepuce, where it was cut, remaining, they go again +to the mountains with the <i>Tahoua</i> and servant; and a fire +being prepared, and some stones heated, the <i>Tahoua</i> puts +the prepuce between two of them, and squeezes it gently, +which removes the thickness. They then return home, having +their heads, and other parts of their bodies, adorned +with odoriferous flowers; and the <i>Tahoua</i> is rewarded for +his services by their fathers, in proportion to their several +abilities, with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be +poor, their relations are liberal on the occasion.</p> + +<p>Their religious system is extensive, and, in many instances, +singular; but few of the common people have a +perfect knowledge of it; that being confined chiefly to +their priests, who are pretty numerous. They do not seem +to pay respect to one god, as possessing pre-eminence; +but believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very +powerful; and in this case, as different parts of the island, +and the other islands in the neighbourhood, have different +ones, the inhabitants of each, no doubt, think that they +have chosen the most eminent, or, at least, one who is invested +with power sufficient to protect them, and to supply +all their wants. If he should not answer their expectations, +they think it no impiety to change; as has very lately happened +in Tiarabooa, where, in the room of the two divinities +formerly honoured there, Oraa,<a id="footnotetag27" name="footnotetag27"></a><a href="#footnote27"><sup>4</sup></a> god of Bolabola, had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page127" id="page127"></a>[pg 127]</span> +been adopted, I should suppose, because he is the protector +of a people who have been victorious in war; and as, +since they have made this change, they have been very +successful themselves against the inhabitants of <i>Otaheite-nooe</i>, +they impute it entirely to <i>Oraa</i>, who, as they literally +say, fights their battles.</p> + +<p>Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. +Not only the <i>whattas</i>, or offering-places of the +<i>morais</i>, are commonly loaded with fruits and animals, but +there are few houses where you do not meet with a small +place of the same sort near them. Many of them are so rigidly +scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without +first laying aside a morsel for the <i>Eatooa</i>; and we had an +opportunity, during this voyage, of seeing their superstitious +zeal carried to a most pernicious height, in the instance +of human sacrifices; the occasions of offering which, +I doubt, are too frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to +them when misfortunes occur; for they asked, if one of +our men, who happened to be confined, when we were detained +by a contrary wind, was <i>taboo</i>? Their prayers are +also very frequent, which they chaunt, much after the manner +of their songs in their festive entertainments. And the +women, as in other cases, are also obliged to shew their +inferiority in religious observances; for it is required of +them, that they should partly uncover themselves as they +pass the <i>morais</i>, or take a considerable circuit to avoid +them. Though they have no notion that their god must +always be conferring benefits, without sometimes forgetting +them, or suffering evil to befall them, they seem to +regard this less than the attempts of some more inauspicious +being to hurt them. They tell us, that <i>Etee</i> is an evil +spirit, who sometimes does them mischief; and to whom, +as well as to their god, they make offerings. But the mischiefs +they apprehend from any superior invisible beings, +are confined to things merely temporal.</p> + +<p>They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. +They say that it keeps fluttering about the lips during +the pangs of death; and that then it ascends and mixes +with, or, as they express it, is eaten by the deity. In this +state it remains for some time; after which it departs to a +certain place, destined for the reception of the souls of +men where it exists in eternal night; or, as they sometimes +say, in twilight or dawn. They have no idea of any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page128" id="page128"></a>[pg 128]</span> +permanent punishment after death, for crimes that they +have committed on earth; for the souls of good and of +bad men are eat indiscriminately by God. But they certainly +consider this coalition with the deity as a kind of +purification necessary to be undergone before they enter a +state of bliss. For, according to their doctrine, if a man +refrain from all connexion with women some months before +death, he passes immediately into his eternal mansion, +without such a previous union; as if already, by this abstinence, +he were pure enough to be exempted from the general +lot.</p> + +<p>They are, however, far from entertaining those sublime +conceptions of happiness, which our religion, and indeed +reason, gives us room to expect hereafter. The only great +privilege they seem to think they shall acquire by death is +immortality; for they speak of spirits being, in some measure, +not totally divested of those passions which actuated +them when combined with material vehicles. Thus, if souls, +who were formerly enemies, should meet, they have many +conflicts; though, it should seem, to no purpose, as they +are accounted invulnerable in this invisible state. There +is a similar reasoning with regard to the meeting of man +and wife. If the husband dies first, the soul of the wife is +known to him on its arrival in the land of spirits. They resume +their former acquaintance, in a spacious house, called +<i>tourooa</i>, where the souls of the deceased assemble to recreate +themselves with the gods. She then retires with him, +to his separate habitation, where they remain for ever, and +have an offspring; which, however, is entirely spiritual, as +they are neither married, nor are their embraces supposed +to be the same as with corporeal beings.</p> + +<p>Some of their notions about the deity are extravagantly +absurd: They believe that he is subject to the power of +those very spirits to whom he has given existence; and +that, in their turn, they frequently eat or devour him, +though he possess the power of re-creating himself. They +doubtless use this mode of expression, as they seem incapable +of conversing about immaterial things, without +constantly referring to material objects to convey their +meaning. And in this manner they continue the account, +by saying, that, in the <i>tourooa</i>, the deity enquires if they +intend, or not, to destroy him? And that he is not able to +alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page129" id="page129"></a>[pg 129]</span> +on earth, as well as to the spirits; for when the moon is in +its wane, it is said that they are then devouring their <i>Eatooa</i>; +and that as it increases he is renewing himself. And +to this accident, not only the inferior, but the most eminent +gods are liable. They also believe, that there are +other places for the reception of souls at death. Thus, +those who are drowned in the sea remain there; where +they think that there is a fine country, houses, and every +thing that can make them happy. But, what is more singular, +they maintain, that not only all other animals, but +trees, fruit, and even stones, have souls, which at death, or +upon being consumed or broken, ascend to the divinity, +with whom they first mix, and afterwards pass into the +mansion allotted to each.</p> + +<p>They imagine that their punctual performance of religious +offices procures for them every temporal blessing. And +as they believe that the animating and powerful influence +of the divine spirit is every where diffused, it is no wonder +that they join to this many superstitious opinions about +its operations. Accordingly, they believe that sudden +deaths, and all other accidents, are effected by the immediate +action of some divinity. If a man only stumble +against a stone and hurt his toe, they impute it to an <i>Eatooa</i>; +so that they may be literally said, agreeably to their +system, to tread enchanted ground. They are startled in +the night on approaching a <i>toopapaoo</i>, where the dead are +exposed, in the same manner that many of our ignorant +and superstitious people are with the apprehensions of +ghosts, and at the sight of a church-yard; and they have +an equal confidence in dreams, which they suppose to be +communications either from their god, or from the spirits +of their departed friends, enabling those favoured with +them to foretell future events; but this kind of knowledge +is confined to particular people. Omai pretended to have +his gift. He told us, that the soul of his father had intimated +to him in a dream, on the 26th of July 1776, that he +should go on shore at some place within three days; but +he was unfortunate in this first attempt to persuade us that +he was a prophet; for it was the 1st of August before we +got into Teneriffe. Amongst them, however, the dreamers +possess a reputation little inferior to that of their inspired +priests and priestesses, whose predictions they implicitly +believe, and are determined by them in all undertakings of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page130" id="page130"></a>[pg 130]</span> +consequence. The priestess who persuaded Opoony to invade +Ulietea, is much respected by him; and he never +goes to war without consulting her. They also, in some +degree, maintain our old doctrine of planetary influence; +at least, they are sometimes regulated in their public counsels +by certain appearances of the moon; particularly +when lying horizontally, or much inclined on the convex +part, on its first appearance after the change, they are encouraged +to engage in war with confidence of success.</p> + +<p>They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as +might be expected, are complex and clouded with obscurity. +They say, that a goddess, having a lump or mass of +earth suspended in a cord, gave it a swing, and scattered +about pieces of land, thus constituting Otaheite and the +neighbouring islands, which were all peopled by a man +and woman, originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, +only respects their own immediate creation; for they have +notions of an universal one before this; and of lands, of +which they have now no other knowledge than what is +mentioned in the tradition. Their most remote account +reaches to Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones +or rocks, who support the congeries of land and water, or +our globe underneath. These produced Totorro, who was +killed, and divided into land; and after him Otaia and +Oroo were begotten, who were afterward married, and produced, +first, land, and then a race of gods. Otaia is killed, +and Oroo marries a god, her son, called Teorrhaha, whom +she orders to create more land, the animals, and all sorts +of food found upon the earth; as also the sky, which is +supported by men called Teeferei. The spots observed in +the moon, are supposed to be groves of a sort of trees +which once grew in Otaheite, and being destroyed by some +accident, their seeds were carried up thither by doves, +where they now flourish.</p> + +<p>They have also many legends, both religious and historical; +one of which latter, relative to the practice of eating +human flesh, I shall give the substance of, as a specimen +of their method. A long time since there lived in +Otaheite two men, called <i>Taheeai</i>, the only name they yet +have for cannibals; none knew from whence they came, +or in what manner they arrived at the island. Their habitation +was in the mountains, from whence they used to issue, +and kill many of the natives, whom they afterward +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page131" id="page131"></a>[pg 131]</span> +devoured, and by that means prevented the progress of +population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country +of such a formidable enemy, used a stratagem for their destruction, +with success. These still lived farther upward +than the <i>Taheeai</i>, and in such a situation that they could +speak with them without greatly hazarding their own safety; +they invited them to accept of an entertainment that +should be provided for them, to which these readily consented. +The brothers then taking some stones, heated +them in a fire, and thrusting them into pieces of <i>mahee</i>, +desired one of the <i>Taheeai</i> to open his mouth; on which +one of these pieces was dropped in, and some water poured +down, which made a boiling or hissing noise, in quenching +the stone, and killed him. They entreated the other to +do the same; but he declined it, representing the consequences +of his companion's eating. However, they assured +him that the food was excellent, and its effects only temporary; +for that the other would soon recover. His credulity +was such that be swallowed the bait, and shared the +fate of the first. The natives then cut them in pieces, +which they buried; and conferred the government of the +island on the brothers, as a reward for delivering them +from such monsters. Their residence was in the district +called Whapaeenoo; and to this day there remains a +bread-fruit tree, once the property of the <i>Taheeais</i>. They +had also a woman, who lived with them, and had two teeth +of a prodigious size. After they were killed, she lived at +the island Otaha; and when dead, was ranked amongst +their deities. She did not eat human flesh, as the men; +but, from the size of her teeth, the natives still call any +animal that has a fierce appearance, or is represented with +large tusks, <i>Taheeai</i>.</p> + +<p>Every one must allow that this story is just as natural as +that of Hercules destroying the hydra, or the more modern +one of Jack the giant-killer. But I do not find that +there is any moral couched under it, any more than under +most old fables of the same kind, which have been received +as truths only during the prevalence of the same ignorance +that marked the character of the ages in which +they were invented. It, however, has not been improperly +introduced, as serving to express the horror and detestation +entertained here against those who feed upon human +flesh. And yet, from some circumstances, I have been led +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page132" id="page132"></a>[pg 132]</span> +to think that the natives of these isles were formerly cannibals. +Upon asking Omai, he denied it stoutly; yet mentioned +a fact, within his own knowledge, which almost +confirms such an opinion. When the people of Bolabola, +one time, defeated those of Huaheine, a great number of +his kinsmen were slain. But one of his relations had, afterward, +an opportunity of revenging himself, when the +Bolabola men were worsted in their turn, and cutting a +piece out of the thigh of one of his enemies, he broiled, +and eat it. I have also frequently considered the offering +of the person's eye, who is sacrificed, to the chief, as a vestige +of a custom which once really existed to a greater extent, +and is still commemorated by this emblematical ceremony.</p> + +<p>The being invested with the <i>maro</i>, and the presiding at +human sacrifices, seem to be the peculiar characteristics +of the sovereign. To these, perhaps, may be added the +blowing a conch-shell, which produces a very loud sound. +On hearing it, all his subjects are obliged to bring food of +every sort to his royal residence, in proportion to their +abilities. On some other occasions, they carry their veneration +for his very name to an extravagant and very destructive +pitch. For if, on his accession to the <i>maro</i>, any +words in their language be found to have a resemblance +to it in sound, they are changed for others; and if any +man be bold enough not to comply, and continue to use +those words, not only he, but all his relations, are immediately +put to death. The same severity is exercised toward +those who shall presume to apply this sacred name +to any animal. And, agreeably to this custom of his countrymen, +Omai used to express his indignation, that the +English should give the names of prince or princess to their +favourite horses or dogs. But while death is the punishment +for making free with the name of their sovereign, if +abuse be only levelled at his government, the offender +escapes with the forfeiture of lands and houses.</p> + +<p>The king never enters the house of any of his subjects, +but has, in every district where he visits, houses belonging +to himself. And if, at any time, he should be obliged +by accident to deviate from this rule, the house thus honoured +with his presence, and every part of its furniture, +is burnt. His subjects not only uncover to him, when present, +down to the waist; but if he be at any particular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page133" id="page133"></a>[pg 133]</span> +place, a pole, having a piece of cloth tied to it, is set up +somewhere near, to which they pay the same honours. +His brothers are also entitled to the first part of the ceremony; +but the women only uncover to the females of the +royal family. In short, they seem even superstitious in their +respect to him, and esteem his person little less than sacred. +And it is, perhaps, to these circumstances, that he +owes the quiet possession of his dominions. For even the +people of Tiaraboo allow him the same honours as his +right; though, at the same time, they look upon their +own chief as more powerful; and say, that he would succeed +to the government of the whole island, should the +present reigning family become extinct. This is the more +likely, as Waheiadooa not only possesses Tiaraboo, but +many districts of Opooreanoo. His territories, therefore, are +almost equal in extent to those of Otoo; and he has, besides, +the advantage of a more populous and fertile part of the +island. His subjects, also, have given proofs of their superiority, +by frequent victories over those of Otaheite-nooe, +whom they affect to speak of as contemptible warriors, +easily to be worsted, if at any time their chief should wish +to put it to the test.</p> + +<p>The ranks of people, besides the <i>Eree de hoi</i> and his +family, are the <i>Erees</i>, or powerful chiefs; the <i>Manahoone</i>, +or vassals; and the <i>Teou</i>, or <i>Toutou</i>, servants, or rather +slaves. The men of each of these, according to the regular +institution, form their connexions with women of their +respective ranks; but if with any inferior one, which frequently +happens, and a child be born, it is preserved, and +has the rank of the father, unless he happens to be an +<i>Eree</i>, in which case it is killed. If a woman of condition +should choose an inferior person to officiate as a husband, +the children he has by her are killed. And if a <i>Teou</i> be +caught in an intrigue with a woman of the blood-royal, he +is put to death. The son of the <i>Eree de hoi</i> succeeds his +father in title and honours as soon as he is born; but if he +should have no children, the brother assumes the government +at his death. In other families, possessions always descend +to the eldest son; but he is obliged to maintain his +brothers and sisters, who are allowed houses on his estates.</p> + +<p>The boundaries of the several districts, into which Otaheite +is divided, are, generally, either rivulets, or low hills, +which, in many places, jut out into the sea. But the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page134" id="page134"></a>[pg 134]</span> +subdivisions into particular property, are marked by large +stones, which have remained from one generation to another. +The removal of any of these gives rise to quarrels, +which are decided by arms; each party bringing his +friends into the field. But if any one complain to the <i>Eree +de hoi</i>, he terminates the difference amicably. This is an +offence, however, not common; and long custom seems to +secure property here as effectually as the most severe laws +do in other countries. In conformity also to ancient practice +established amongst them, crimes of a less general +nature are left to be punished by the sufferer, without referring +them to a superior. In this case, they seem to think +that the injured person will judge as equitably as those +who are totally unconcerned; and as long custom has allotted +certain punishments for crimes of different sorts, he +is allowed to inflict them, without being amenable to any +other person. Thus, if any one be caught stealing, which +is commonly done in the night, the proprietor of the goods +may put the thief instantly to death; and if any one should +enquire of him after the deceased, it is sufficient to acquit +him, if he only informs them of the provocation he had to +kill him. But so severe a punishment is seldom inflicted, +unless the articles that are stolen be reckoned very valuable; +such as breast-plates and plaited hair. If only cloth, +or even hogs, be stolen, and the thief escape, upon his being +afterward discovered, if he promise to return the same +number of pieces of cloth, or of hogs, no farther punishment +is inflicted. Sometimes, after keeping out of the way +for a few days, he is forgiven, or, at most, gets a slight +beating. If a person kill another in a quarrel, the friends +of the deceased assemble, and engage the survivor and his +adherents. If they conquer, they take possession of the +house, lands, and goods of the other party; but if conquered, +the reverse takes place. If a <i>Manahoone</i> kill the +<i>Toutou</i>, or slave of a chief, the latter sends people to take +possession of the lands and house of the former, who flies +either to some other part of the island, or to some of the +neighbouring islands. After some months he returns, and +finding his stock of hogs much increased, he offers a large +present of these, with some red feathers, and other valuable +articles, to the <i>Toutou</i>'s master, who generally accepts +the compensation, and permits him to repossess his house +and lands. This practice is the height of venality and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page135" id="page135"></a>[pg 135]</span> +injustice; and the slayer of the slave seems to be under no +farther necessity of absconding, than to impose upon the +lower class of people, who are the sufferers. For it does +not appear that the chief has the least power to punish +this <i>Manahoone</i>; but the whole management marks a collusion +between him and his superior, to gratify the revenge +of the former, and the avarice of the latter. Indeed, we +need not wonder that the killing of a man should be considered +as so venial an offence, amongst a people who do +not consider it as any crime at all to murder their own +children. When talking to them, about such instances of +unnatural cruelty, and asking, whether the chiefs or principal +people were not angry, and did not punish them? I +was told, that the chief neither could nor would interfere +in such cases; and that every one had a right to do with +his own child what he pleased.</p> + +<p>Though the productions, the people, and the customs +and manners of all the islands in the neighbourhood, may, +in general, be reckoned the same as at Otaheite, there are +a few differences which should be mentioned, as this may +lead to an enquiry about more material ones hereafter, if +such there be, of which we are now ignorant.</p> + +<p>With regard to the little island Mataia, or Osnaburgh +Island, which lies twenty leagues east of Otaheite, and belongs +to a chief of that place, who gets from thence a kind +of tribute, a different dialect from that of Otaheite is there +spoken. The men of Mataia also wear their hair very long; +and when they fight, cover their arms with a substance +which is beset with sharks' teeth, and their bodies with a +sort of shagreen, being skin of fishes. At the same time +they are ornamented with polished pearl-shells, which make +a prodigious glittering in the sun; and they have a very +large one, that covers them before, like a shield or breast +plate.</p> + +<p>The language of Otaheite has many words, and even +phrases, quite unlike those of the islands to the westward +of it, which all agree; and this island is remarkable for +producing great quantities of that delicious fruit we call +apples, which are found in none of the others, except Eimeo. +It has also the advantage of producing an odoriferous +wood, called <i>eahoi</i>, which is highly valued at the other +isles, where there is none; nor even in the south-east peninsula, +or Tiaraboo, though joining it. Huaheine and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page136" id="page136"></a>[pg 136]</span> +Eimeo, again, are remarkable for producing greater quantities +of yams than the other islands. And at Mourooa there +is a particular bird, found upon the hills, much esteemed +for its white feathers; at which place there is also said to +be some of the apples, though it be the most remote of +the Society Islands from Otaheite and Eimeo, where they +are produced.</p> + +<p>Though the religion of all the islands be the same, each +of them has its particular, or tutelar god; whose names, +according to the best information I could receive, are set +down in the following list:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td colspan="3" align="center"><i>Gods of the Isles</i>,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Huaheine,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Tanne.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Ulietea,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Oore.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Otaha,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Tanne.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Bolabola,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Oraa.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mourooa,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Otoo, ee weiahoo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Toobaee,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Tamouee.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tabooymanoo, or Saunders's Island, which is subject to Huaheine,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Taroa.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Eimeo,</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Oroo hadoo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Otaheite-nooe,</td><td align="left"><i>Ooroo.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Otaheite,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Tiaraboo,</td><td align="left"><i>Opoonooa</i> and</td><td align="left">whom they have</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Whatooteeree</i>,</td><td align="left">lately changed</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">for Oraa, god</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">of Bolabola.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mataia or Osnaburgh Island</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Tooboo, toobooai, Ry maraiva.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The Low Isles, Eastward</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Tammaree.</i></td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Besides the cluster of high islands from Mataia to Mourooa +inclusive, the people of Otaheite are acquainted with +a low uninhabited island, which they name Mopeeha, and +seems to be Howe's Island, laid down to the westward of +Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the inhabitants +of the most leeward islands sometimes go. There +are also several low islands, to the north-eastward of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page137" id="page137"></a>[pg 137]</span> +Otaheite, which they have sometimes visited, but not constantly; +and are said to be only at the distance of two days' +sail, with a fair wind. They were thus named to me:</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>Mataeeva,</p> +<p>Oanaa, called Oannah, in Dalrymple's letter to Hawkesworth</p> +<p>Taboohoe,</p> +<p>Awehee,</p> +<p>Kaoora,</p> +<p>Orootooa,</p> +<p>Otavaoo, where are large pearls.</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>The inhabitants of these isles come more frequently to +Otaheite and the other neighbouring high islands, from +whose natives they differ in being of a darker colour, with +a fiercer aspect, and differently punctured. I was informed, +that at Mataeeva, and others of them, it is a custom +for the men to give their daughters to strangers who arrive +amongst them; but the pairs must be five nights lying +near each other, without presuming to proceed farther. +On the sixth evening, the father of the young woman, +treats his guest with food, and informs his daughter, that +she must, that night, receive him as her husband. The +stranger, however, must not offer to express the least dislike, +though the bed-fellow allotted to him should be ever +so disagreeable; for this is considered as an unpardonable +affront, and is punished with death. Forty men of Bolabola, +who, incited by curiosity, had roamed as far as Mataeeva +in a canoe, were treated in this manner; one of them +having incautiously mentioned his dislike of the woman +who fell to his lot, in the hearing of a boy, who informed +her father. In consequence of this the Mateevans fell upon +them; but these warlike people killed three times their +own number; though with the loss of all their party, except +five. These hid themselves in the woods, and took an +opportunity, when the others were burying their dead, to +enter some houses, where, having provided themselves with +victuals and water, they carried them on board a canoe, in +which they made their escape; and, after passing Mataia, +at which they would not touch, at last arrived safe at Eimeo. +The Bolabolans, however, were sensible enough that +their travellers had been to blame; for a canoe from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page138" id="page138"></a>[pg 138]</span> +Mateeva, arriving some time after at Bolabola, so far were +they from retaliating upon them for the death of their +countrymen, that they acknowledged they had deserved +their fate, and treated their visitors kindly.</p> + +<p>These low isles are, doubtless, the farthest navigation +which those of Otaheite and the Society Islands perform +at present. It seems to be a groundless supposition, made +by Mons. de Bougainville, that they made voyages of the +prodigious extent<a id="footnotetag28" name="footnotetag28"></a><a href="#footnote28"><sup>5</sup></a> he mentions; for I found, that it is +reckoned a sort of a prodigy, that a canoe, once driven by +a storm from Otaheite, should have fallen in with Mopeeha, +or Howe's Island, though so near, and directly to leeward. +The knowledge they have of other distant islands +is, no doubt, traditional; and has been communicated to +them by the natives of those islands, driven accidentally +upon their coasts, who, besides giving them the names, +could easily inform them of the direction in which the +places lie from whence they came, and of the number of +days they had been upon the sea. In this manner, it may +be supposed, that the natives of Wateeoo have increased +their catalogue by the addition of Otaheite and its neighbouring +isles, from the people we met with there, and also +of the other islands these had heard of. We may thus account +for that extensive knowledge attributed by the gentlemen +of the Endeavour to Tupia in such matters. And, +with all due deference to his veracity, I presume that it +was, by the same means of information, that he was able +to direct the ship to Oheteroa, without having ever been +there himself, as he pretended; which, on many accounts, +is very improbable.<a id="footnotetag29" name="footnotetag29"></a><a href="#footnote29"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote24" name="footnote24"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag24"> (return) </a><p>See this Vocabulary at the end of Captain Cook's second voyage. +Many corrections and additions to it were now made by this indefatigable +enquirer; but the specimens of the language of Otaheite, already in +the hands of the public, seem sufficient for every useful purpose.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote25" name="footnote25"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag25"> (return) </a><p>Mr Anderson, invariably in his manuscript, writes <i>Eree de +hoi</i>. According +to Captain Cook's mode, it is <i>Eree rahie</i>. This is one of the numerous +instances that perpetually occur, of our people's representing the +same word differently.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote26" name="footnote26"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag26"> (return) </a><p>That the Caroline Islands are inhabited by the same tribe or +nation, +whom Captain Cook found, it such immense distances, spread throughout +the South Pacific Ocean, has been satisfactorily established in some preceding +notes The situation of the Ladrones, or Marianne Islands, still +farther north than the Carolines, but at no great distance from them, is +favourable, at first sight, to the conjecture, that the same race also peopled +that cluster; and, on looking into Father Le Gobien's history of them, +this conjecture appears to be actually confirmed by direct evidence. +One +of the greatest singularities of the Otaheite manners, is the existence of +the society of young men called <i>Erreoes</i>, of whom some account is given +in the preceding paragraph. Now we learn from Father Le Gobien, that +such a society exists also amongst the inhabitants of the Ladrones. His +words are: <i>Les Urritoes sont parmi eux les jeuns gens qui vivent avec des +maitresses, sans vouloir s'engager dans les liens du mariage</i>. That there +should be young men in the Ladrones, as well as in Otaheite, <i>who live +with mistresses, without being inclined to enter into the married state</i>, +would not, indeed, furnish the shadow of any peculiar resemblance between +them. But that the young men in the Ladrones, and in Otaheite, +whose manners are thus licentious, should be considered as a distinct +confraternity, +called by a particular name; and that this name should be the +same in both places: this singular coincidence of custom, confirmed by +that of language, seems to furnish an irrefragable proof of the inhabitants +of both places being the same nation. We know, that it is the general +property of the Otaheite dialect, to soften the pronunciation of its words. +And, it is observable, that, by the omission of one single letter (the consonant +t), +our <i>Arreoys</i> (as spelled in Hawkesworth's collection), or <i>Erreoes</i> +(according to Mr Anderson's orthography), and the <i>Urritoes</i> of the +Ladrones, are brought to such a similitude of sound (the only rule of +comparing two unwritten languages), that we may pronounce them to be +the same word, without exposing ourselves to the sneers of supercilious +criticism.</p> + +<p>One or two more such proofs, drawn from similarity of language, in +very significant words, may be assigned. Le Gobien tells us, that the people +of the Ladrones worship their dead, whom they call <i>Anitis</i>. Here, +again, by dropping the consonant <i>n</i>, we have a word that bears a strong +resemblance to that which so often occurs in Captain Cook's voyages, +when speaking of the divinities of his islands, whom he calls <i>Eatooas</i>. +And it may be matter of curiosity to remark, that what is called an +<i>Aniti</i>, +at the Ladrones, is, as we learn from Cantova (<i>Lettres Edifiantes et +Curieuses</i>, +tom. xv. p. 309, 310.) at the Caroline Islands, where dead chiefs +are also worshipped, called a <i>Tahutup</i>; and that, by softening or sinking +the strong sounding letters, at the beginning and at the end of this latter +word, the <i>Ahutu</i> of the Carolines, the <i>Aiti</i> of the Ladrones, and +the <i>Eatooa</i> +of the South Pacific Islands, assume such a similarity in pronunciation +(for we can have no other guide), as strongly marks one common original. +Once more; we learn from Le Gobien, that the Marianne people +call their chiefs <i>Chamorris</i>, or <i>Chamoris</i>. And by softening the +aspirate +<i>Ch</i> into <i>T</i>, and the harshness of <i>r</i> into <i>l</i> (of which +the vocabularies of the +different islands give us repeated instances), we have the <i>Tamole</i> of the +Caroline Islands, and the <i>Tamolao</i>, or <i>Tamaha</i>, of the Friendly +ones.</p> + +<p>If these specimens of affinity of language should be thought too scanty, +some very remarkable instances of similarity of customs and institutions +will go far to remove every doubt. 1. A division into three classes, of +nobles, of middle rank, and the common people, or servants, was found, +by Captain Cook, to prevail, both at the Friendly and the Society +Islands. +Father Le Gobien expressly tells us, that the same distinction prevails at +the Ladrones: <i>Il y a trois états, parmi les insulaires, la noblesse, le +moyen, +et le menu.</i> 2. Numberless instances occur in Captain Cook's voyage to +prove the great subjection under which the people of his islands are to +their chiefs. We learn from Le Gobien, that it is so also at the Ladrones: +<i>La noblesse est d'un fierté incroyable, et tien le peuple dans un abaisement +qu'on ne pourroit imaginer en Europe</i>, &c. 3. The diversions of the natives +at Wateeo, the Friendly, and the Society Islands, have been copiously +described by Captain Cook. How similar are those which Le Gobien +mentions in the following words, as prevailing at the Ladrones!—<i>Ils se +divertissent à danser, courir, sautir, lutter, pour s'exercer, et éprouver +leur forces. Ils prennent grand plaisir à raconter les avantures de leurs +ancétres, et à reciter des vers de leurs poëtes.</i> 4. The principal share +sustained +by the women, in the entertainments at Captain Cook's islands, +appears sufficiently from a variety of instances in this work; and we cannot +read what Le Gobien says of the practice at the Ladrones, without +tracing the strongest resemblance—<i>Dans leurs assemblées elles se mettent +doux ou trieze femmes en rond, debout, sans se remuer. Dans cette attitude +elles chantent les vers fabuleux de leurs poëtes avec un agrément, et +une justesse qui plairoit en Europe. L'accord de leur voix est admirable, +et ne cede en rien à la musique concertée. Elles ont dans les mains de petits +coquilles, dont elles se servent avec beaucoup de precision. Elles soutiennent +leur voix, et animent leur chants avec une action si vive, et des +gestes si expressives, qu'elles charment ceux qui les voient, et qui les +entendent.</i> +5. We read in Captain Cook's first voyage, that at Otaheite +garlands of the fruit of the palm-tree and cocoa-leaves, with other things +particularly consecrated to funeral solemnities, are deposited about the +places where they lay their dead; and that provisions and water are also +left at a little distance. How conformable to this is the practice at the +Ladrones, as described by Le Gobien!—<i>Ils font quelques repas autour du +tombeau; car on en eleve toujours un sur le lieu ou le corps est enterré, ou +dans le voisinage; on le charge de fleurs, de branches de palmiers, de +coquillages, +et de tout ce qu'ils ont de plus precieux.</i> 6. It is the custom at +Otaheite not to bury the skulls of the chiefs with the rest of the bones, +but to put them into boxes made for that purpose. Here again, we find +the same strange custom prevailing at the Ladrones; for Le Gobien expressly +tells us, <i>qui'ls gardent les cranes, en leur +maisons</i>, that they put +these skulls into little baskets (<i>petites corbeilles</i>); and that these +dead +chiefs are the <i>Anitis</i>, to whom their priests address their invocations. +7. The people at Otaheite, as we learn from Captain Cook, in his account +of Tee's embalmed corpse, make use of cocoa-nut oil, and other ingredients, +in rubbing the dead bodies. The people of the Ladrones, Father Le +Gobien tells us, sometimes do the same—<i>D'autres frottent les morts +d'huile odoriferante.</i> 8. The inhabitants of Otaheite believe the immortality +of the soul; and that there are two situations after death, somewhat +analogous to our heaven and hell; but they do not suppose, that their +actions here in the least influence their future state. And in the +account +given in this Voyage of the religious opinions entertained at the Friendly +Islands, we find there exactly the same doctrine. It is very observable, +how conformable to this is the belief of the inhabitants of the Ladrones—<i>Ils +sont persuadés</i> (says Le Gobien) <i>de l'immortalité de l'áme. Ils +reconnoissent +même un Paradis et un Enfer, dont ils se forment des idées assez +bizarres. Ce n'est point, selon eux, la vertu ni le crime, qui conduit +dans ces lieux là; les bonnes ou les mauvaises actions n'y servent de rien.</i> +9. One more very singular instance of agreement shall close this long list. +In Captain Cook's account of the New Zealanders, we find that, according +to them, the soul of the man who is killed, and whose flesh is devoured, +is doomed to a perpetual fire; while the souls of all who die a natural +death, ascend to the habitations of the gods. And, from Le Gobien, we +learn that this very notion is adopted by his islanders—<i>Si on a le malkeur +de mourir de mort violente, on a l'enfer pour leur portage.</i></p> + +<p>Surely such a concurrence of very characteristic conformities cannot +be the result of mere accident; and, when combined with the specimens +of affinity of language mentioned at the beginning of this note, it should +seem that we are fully warranted, from premises thus unexceptionable, to +draw a certain conclusion, that the inhabitants of the various islands +discovered +or visited by Captain Cook in the South Pacific Ocean, and those +whom the Spaniards found settled upon the Ladrones or Mariannes, in +the northern hemisphere, carried the same language, customs, and opinions +from one common centre, from which they had emigrated; and +that, therefore, they may be considered as scattered members of the same +nation.</p> + +<p>See Pere Le Gobien's <i>Histoire des Iles Mariannes</i>, Book ii. or the summary +of it in <i>Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Australes</i>, T. ii. p. +492-512, +from which the materials for this note have been extracted.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote27" name="footnote27"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag27"> (return) </a><p>We have another instance of the same word being differently +pronounced +by our people. Captain Cook, as appears above, speaks of <i>Olla</i> +as the Bolabola god.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote28" name="footnote28"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag28"> (return) </a><p>See <i>Bougainville's Voyage autour du Monde</i>, p. 228, where we +are +told that these people sometimes navigate at the distance of more than +three hundred leagues.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote29" name="footnote29"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag29"> (return) </a><p>Though much of Mr Anderson's account of Otaheite, &c. be very +similar to what has been given in the preceding relations, yet it must be +allowed to possess too great merit to warrant omission or alteration. He +has been fortunate, certainly, in delineating the manners and opinions of +the people; and perhaps, on the whole, his information bears more decisive +marks of care and intimate acquaintance than any other we possess +on the subject. This, it may be said, is no very high merit; because, having +the benefit of pretty extensive labours, he had only to compare a +picture with its original, as presented to his notice, and was under no +necessity +of dividing his attention among a multiplicity of unconnected objects. +Still this remark is not just, unless it be shewn that he has merely +affirmed the likeness or unlikeness he observed betwixt them, and +specified +the peculiarities of resemblance or dissimilarity. In place of doing so, +however, he has executed another picture. But such analogical reasoning +is more fanciful than judicious; and even were it correctly applicable +to the case, it is evident, that no one would be entitled to decide as +to the respective merits of the productions, who was not familiar with the +objects which they represented. Now, the fact is, that Mr Anderson had +no opportunity of availing himself of what others had done before, unless +we except the avowedly imperfect delineations in Hawkesworth's Narrative, +from which we can scarcely believe he could derive material assistance. +The reader will understand this at once, by considering, that neither +Cook's account of his second voyage, nor the productions of Mr Forster, +had been published before the commencement of this expedition. +It may, however, be imagined, that Cook himself would communicate to +Mr Anderson such particulars of his former journal as were likely to aid +him in his present researches. Even this supposition is exceedingly unnecessary; +because, it appears from the Memoir of Cook, in the Biog. +Brit. that that officer rather received assistance from Mr Anderson during +the former navigation; and we shall afterwards see reason to consider +him as possessed of abilities, and a talent for observation, which rendered +him very independent of others. His description, therefore, is to +be judged an original one, and as such is entitled to the highest distinction. +It may indeed be somewhat chargeable with the exaggerations of +a warm fancy, especially as to what is said of the religious notions of +these islanders, which perhaps assume more of system and regularity +through the medium of Mr A.'s report, than it is altogether likely would +be found to exist in their popular creeds. This is easily understood, without +any aspersion on his veracity. For, as it will be allowed that he possessed +greater compass of mind, and was more in the habit of exercising +thought than the people whose opinions he described, so it may thence be +readily inferred, that, what to them was confused and unconnected, as is +commonly the case with the superstitions of the illiterate in all countries, +his philosophical genius, working on obvious and remote analogies, +wrought +into order, and stamped with the semblance, at least, of theoretical +consistency. +We had at one time purposed to offer a few remarks on certain +parts of his description, but, on second thoughts, it occurred, that, on the +whole, the subject had received a very ample share of attention in the +course of these voyages.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page139" id="page139"></a>[pg 139]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION X.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands.—Christmas +Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there.—Boats +sent ashore.—Great Success in catching Turtle.—An +Eclipse of the Sun observed.—Distress of two Seamen +who had lost their Way.—Inscription left in a Bottle.—Account +of the Island.—Its Soil.—Trees and Plants.—Birds.—Its +Size.—Form.—Situation.—Anchoring Ground.</i></blockquote> + +<p>After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close-hauled, +with the wind between N.E. and E., hardly ever +having it to the southward of E., till after we had crossed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page140" id="page140"></a>[pg 140]</span> +the Line, and had got into N. latitudes. So that our course, +made good, was always to the W. of N., and sometimes no +better than N.W.</p> + +<p>Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure +from England, during which, we had not, upon +the whole, been unprofitably employed, I was sensible, that +with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our +voyage was, at this time, only beginning; and, therefore, +my attention to every circumstance that might contribute +toward our safety and our ultimate success, was now to be +called forth anew. With this view I had examined into +the state of our provisions at the last islands; and, as soon +as I had left them, and got beyond the extent of my former +discoveries, I ordered a survey to be taken of all the +boatswain's and carpenter's stores that were in the ships, +that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and +condition of every article; and, by that means, know how +to use them to the greatest advantage.</p> + +<p>Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity +of enquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any +islands in a N. or N.W. direction from them; but I did not +find that they knew of any. Nor did we meet with any +thing that indicated the vicinity of land, till we came to +about the latitude of 8° S., where we began to see birds, +such as boobies, tropic, and men-of-war birds, tern, and +some other sorts. At this time our longitude was 205° E. +Mendana, in his first voyage in 1568,<a id="footnotetag30" name="footnotetag30"></a><a href="#footnote30"><sup>1</sup></a> discovered an island +which he named Isla de Jesus, in latitude 6° 45' S., and +1450 leagues from Callao, which is 200° E. longitude from +Greenwich. We crossed this latitude near a hundred +leagues to the eastward of this longitude, and saw there +many of the above-mentioned birds, which are seldom +known to go very far from land.</p> + +<p>In the night, between the 22d and 23d, we crossed the +Line in the longitude of 203° 15' E. Here the variation of +the compass was 6° 30' E. nearly.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page141" id="page141"></a>[pg 141]</span> + +<p>On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land +was discovered bearing N.E. by E. 1/2 E. Upon a nearer approach, +it was found to be one of those low islands so common +in this ocean, that is, a narrow bank of land inclosing +the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen in two or +three places; but, in general, the land had a very barren +appearance. At noon, it extended from N.E. by E. to S. +by E. 1/2 E., about four miles distant. The wind was at +E.S.E., so that we were under a necessity of making a few +boards, to get up to the lee or west side, where we found +from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, over a +bottom of fine sand, the least depth about half a mile from, +the breakers, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting +with soundings determined me to anchor, with a view +to try to get some turtles, for the island seemed to be a +likely place to meet with them, and to be without inhabitants. +Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms; +and then a boat was dispatched to examine whether it was +practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea +broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the +boat returned, the officer, whom I had entrusted with this +examination, reported to me that he could see no place +where a boat could land, but that there was great abundance +of fish in the shoal water, without the breakers.</p> + +<p>At day-break, the next morning, I sent two boats, one +from each ship, to search more accurately for a landing-place; +and, at the same time, two others to fish at a grappling +near the shore. These last returned about eight +o'clock, with upward of two hundred weight of fish. Encouraged +by this success, they were dispatched again after +breakfast; and I then went in another boat, to take a view +of the coast and attempt landing, but this I found to be +wholly impracticable. Toward noon, the two boats, sent on +the same search, returned. The master, who was in that +belonging to the Resolution, reported to me, that about a league +and a half to the N., was a break in the land, and a +channel into the <i>lagoon</i>, consequently, that there was a fit +place for landing; and that he had found the same soundings +off this entrance, as we had where we now lay. In +consequence of this report the ships weighed anchor, and, +after two or three trips, came to again in twenty fathoms +water, over a bottom of fine dark sand, before a small island +that lies at the entrance of the <i>lagoon</i>, and on each side of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page142" id="page142"></a>[pg 142]</span> +which there is a channel leading into it, but only fit for +boats. The water in the <i>lagoon</i> itself is all very shallow.</p> + +<p>On the 26th, in the morning, I ordered Captain Clerke +to send a boat, with an officer, to the S.E. part of the <i>lagoon</i>, +to look for turtles; and Mr King and I went each in +a boat to the N.E. part. I intended to have gone to the +most easterly extremity, but the wind blew too fresh to allow +it, and obliged us to land more to leeward, on a sandy +flat, where we caught one turtle, the only one that we saw +in the <i>lagoon</i>. We walked, or rather waded, through the +water to an island, where finding nothing but a few birds, I +left it, and proceeded to the land that bounds the sea to the +N.W., leaving Mr King to observe the sun's meridian altitude. +I found this land to be even more barren than the +island I had been upon; but walking over to the sea-coast, +I saw five turtles close to the shore. One of these we caught, +and the rest made their escape. Not seeing any more I returned +on board, as did Mr King soon after, without having +seen one turtle. We, however, did not despair of getting +a supply; for some of Captain Clerke's officers, who had +been ashore on the land to the southward of the channel +leading into the <i>lagoon</i>, had been more fortunate, and +caught several there.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 27th, the pinnace and cutter, under +the command of Mr King, were sent to the S.E. part +of the island, within the <i>lagoon</i>, and the small cutter to the +northward, where I had been the day before, both parties +being ordered upon the same service, to catch turtles. Captain +Clerke having had some of his people on shore all +night, they had been so fortunate as to turn between forty +and fifty on the sand, which were brought on board with +all expedition this day. And, in the afternoon, the party I +had sent northward returned with six. They were sent back +again, and remained there till we left the island, having in +general pretty good success.</p> + +<p>On the 28th, I landed in company with Mr Bayly, on the +island which lies between the two channels into the <i>lagoon</i>, +to prepare the telescopes for observing the approaching +eclipse of the sun, which was one great inducement to my +anchoring here. About noon, Mr King returned with one +boat and eight turtles, leaving seven behind to be brought +by the other boat, whose people were employed in catching +more; and, in the evening, the same boat was sent with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page143" id="page143"></a>[pg 143]</span> +water and provisions for them. Mr Williamson now went +to superintend this duty in the room of Mr King, who remained +on board to attend the observation of the eclipse.</p> + +<p>The next day, Mr Williamson dispatched the two boats +back to the ship, laden with turtles. At the same time, he +sent me a message, desiring that the boats might be ordered +round by sea, as he had found a landing-place on the +S.E. side of the island, where most of the turtles were +caught; so that by sending the boats thither, the trouble +would be saved of carrying them over the land to the inside +of the <i>lagoon</i>, as had been hitherto done. The boats were +accordingly dispatched to the place which he pointed out.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse +was to happen, Mr King, Mr Bayly, and myself, went +ashore on the small island above-mentioned, to attend the +observation. The sky was over-cast till past nine o'clock, +when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough to +take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made +use of. After this, it was again obscured, till about thirty +minutes past nine, and then we found that the eclipse was +begun. We now fixed the micrometers to the telescopes, +and observed or measured the uneclipsed part of the sun's +disk. At these observations I continued about three-quarters +of an hour before the end, when I left off, being, in +fact, unable to continue them longer, on account of the +great heat of the sun, increased by the reflection from the +sand.</p> + +<p>The sun was clouded at times; but it was clear when the +eclipse ended, the time of which was observed as follows:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Mr Bayly</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">0 26 3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">By</td><td align="left">Mr King</td><td align="left">at</td><td align="left">0 26 1</td><td align="left">Apparent Time p.m.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Myself</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">0 25 37</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Mr Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, +and Mr King with a reflector. As Mr Bayly's telescope +and mine were of the same magnifying power, I +ought not to have differed so much from him as I did. +Perhaps, it was, in part, if not wholly owing to a protuberance +in the moon, which escaped my notice, but was seen +by both the other gentlemen.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the boats and turtling party, at the +S.E. part of the island, all returned on board, except a seaman +belonging to the Discovery, who had been missing +two days. There were two of them at first who had lost +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page144" id="page144"></a>[pg 144]</span> +their way, but disagreeing about the most probable track to +bring them back to their companions, they had separated, +and one of them joined the party, after having been absent +twenty-four hours, and been in great distress. Not a drop +of fresh water could be had, for there is none upon the +whole island; nor was there a single cocoa-nut tree on that +part of it. In order to allay his thirst, be had recourse to +the singular expedient of killing turtles, and drinking their +blood. His mode of refreshing himself, when weary, of +which he said he felt the good effects, was equally whimsical. +He undressed himself, and lay down for some time in +the shallow water upon the beach.<a id="footnotetag31" name="footnotetag31"></a><a href="#footnote31"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>It was a matter of surprise to every one, how these two +men could contrive to lose themselves. The land over +which they had to travel, from the sea-coast to the <i>lagoon</i>, +where the boats lay, was not more than three miles across, +nor was there any thing to obstruct their view, for the +country was a flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon it, and +from many parts of it, the masts of the ships could easily be +seen. But this was a rule of direction they never once +thought of; nor did they recollect in what quarter of the +island the ships had anchored, and they were as much at a +loss how to get back to them, or to the party they had +straggled from, as if they had but just dropped from the +clouds. Considering how strange a set of beings the generality +of seamen are, when on shore, instead of being +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page145" id="page145"></a>[pg 145]</span> +surprised that these two men should thus lose their way, it is +rather to be wondered at, that no more of the party were +missing. Indeed, one of those who landed with me was in +a similar situation; but he had sagacity enough to know +that the ships were to leeward, and got on board almost as +soon as it was discovered that he had been left behind.</p> + +<p>As soon as Captain Clerke knew that one of the stragglers +was still in this awkward situation, he sent a party in +search of him; but neither the man nor the party having +come back, the next morning I ordered two boats into the +<i>lagoon</i>, to go different ways, in prosecution of the search. +Not long after, Captain Clerke's party returned with their +lost companion; and my boats having now no object left, +I called them back by signal. This poor fellow must have +suffered far greater distress than the other straggler, not +only as having been lost a longer time, but as we found +that he was too squeamish to drink turtle's blood.</p> + +<p>Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a state +of vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the little +island where we had observed the eclipse, and some melon-seeds +were sown in another place. I also left, on the little +island, a bottle containing this inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p><i>Georgius, Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777.</i></p> +<p><i>Naves {Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.</i></p> +<p class="i6"> <i>{Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.</i></p> + </div> </div> + +<p>On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on +board all our parties from the land, and the turtles they had +caught. Before this was completed it was late in the afternoon, +so that I did not think proper to sail till next morning. +We got at this island, to both ships, about three hundred +turtles, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a +hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind, and perhaps +as good as any in the world. We also caught, with +hook and line, as much fish as we could consume during +our stay. They consisted principally of cavallies of different +sizes, large and small snappers, and a few of two sorts +of rock-fish, one with numerous spots of blue, and the other +with whitish streaks scattered about.</p> + +<p>The soil of this island, in some places, is light and black, +evidently composed of decayed vegetables, the dung of +birds, and sand. There are other places again, where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page146" id="page146"></a>[pg 146]</span> +nothing but marine productions, such as broken coral stones +and shells are to be seen. These are deposited in long narrow +ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the sea-coast, +not unlike a ploughed field, and must have been thrown up +by the waves, though, at this time, they do not reach within +a mile of some of these places. This seems to furnish an +incontestible proof that the island has been produced by +accessions from the sea, and is in a state of increase; for +not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the shells, +are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds, +from the beach, to the places where they now lie. Not a +drop of fresh water was any where found, though frequently +dug for. We met with several ponds of salt water, which +had no visible communication with the sea, and must, therefore, +in all probability, be filled by the water filtrating +through the sand in high tides. One of the lost men found +some salt on the S.E. part of the island. But though this +was an article of which we were in want, a man who could +lose himself, as he did, and not know whether he was travelling +east, west, north, or south, was not to be depended +upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the place.</p> + +<p>There were not the smallest traces of any human being +having ever been here before us; and, indeed, should any +one be so unfortunate as to be accidentally driven upon the +island, or left there, it is hard to say, that he could be able +to prolong existence. There is, indeed, abundance of birds +and fish, but no visible means of allaying thirst, nor any +vegetable that could supply the place of bread, or correct +the bad effects of an animal diet, which, in all probability, +would soon prove fatal alone. On the few cocoa-trees upon +the island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, +very little fruit was found; and, in general, what was found, +was either not fully grown, or had the juice salt, or brackish. +So that a ship touching here, must expect nothing but +fish and turtles, and of these an abundant supply may be +depended upon.</p> + +<p>On some parts of the land were a few low trees. Mr +Anderson gave me an account also of two small shrubs, and, +of two or three small plants, all which we had seen on Palmerston's +Island and Otakootaia. There was also a species +of <i>sida</i> or Indian mallow, a sort of purslain, and another +small plant, that seemed, from its leaves, a <i>mesembryanthemum</i>, +with two species of grass. But each of these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page147" id="page147"></a>[pg 147]</span> +vegetable productions was in so small a quantity, and grew with +so much languor, that one is almost surprised that the species +do not become extinct.</p> + +<p>Under the low trees above-mentioned, sat infinite numbers +of a new species of tern, or egg-bird. These are +black above and white below, with a white arch on the +forehead, and are rather larger than the common noddy. +Most of them had lately hatched their young, which lay +under old ones upon the bare ground. The rest had eggs, +of which they only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, +bluish and speckled with black. There were also a good +many common boobies, a sort that are almost like a gannet, +and a sooty or chocolate-coloured one, with a white +belly. To this list we must add men-of-war birds, tropic-birds, +curlews, sand-pipers, a small land-bird like a hedge-sparrow, +land-crabs, small lizards, and rats.</p> + +<p>As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery +<i>Christmas Island</i>. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty +leagues in circumference. It seemed to be of a semicircular +form, or like the moon in the last quarter, the two horns +being the N. and S. points, which bear from each other +nearly N. by E., and S. by W., four or five leagues distant. +This west side, or the little isle at the entrance into the <i>lagoon</i>, +upon which we observed the eclipse, lies in the latitude +of 1° 59' N., and in the longitude of 202° 30' E., determined +by a considerable number of lunar observations, +which differed only 7' from the time-keeper, it being so +much less. The variation of the compass was 6° 22-1/2' E., +and the dip of the north end of the needle 11° 54'.</p> + +<p>Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded +by a reef of coral-rocks, which extends but a little way +from the shore. Farther out than this reef, on the west +side, is a bank of fine sand, extending a mile into the sea. +On this bank is good anchorage, in any depth between +eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the first-mentioned +depth, the reef would be too near; and, in more +than the last, the edge of the bank would not be at a sufficient +distance. During the time we lay here, the wind +blew constantly a fresh gale at E., or E. by S., except one +or two days. We had, always, a great swell from the northward, +which broke upon the reef in a prodigious surf. We +had found this swell before we came to the island, and it +continued for some days after we left it.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote30" name="footnote30"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag30"> (return) </a><p>See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. i. p. 45.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote31" name="footnote31"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag31"> (return) </a><p>The practice is deserving of a better epithet. It is highly +judicious, +and may often be adopted with the best effects. The use of the cold bath +in cases of fever is not materially different; and it is most certain, that +washing the body with either cold or warm water, is one of the best methods +of relieving the sense of weariness consequent on fatiguing exercise. +Some caution is undoubtedly required in using it; but on the whole, there +is much less danger in the application than is commonly imagined. The +natural indications are chiefly to be regarded. Thus it is not likely that a +person already cooled down below the natural standard, so as to feel positively +cold or chilly, will run the risk of greater reduction of temperature +by immersion in cold water; and on the other hand, when most +warm, in which state such reduction is safest, there is the greatest inclination +to have recourse to it. It is advisable to employ friction with +cloths in most cases, but more especially where perspiration has been +brought on, in which state, cold bathing, unless preceded by that process +in such a degree as to excite a sense of heat on the surface, is improper, +for a reason above assigned, perspiration always occasioning a reduction of +temperature. This subject is an important one, but could not be discussed +here; there seemed, however, some good end likely to be answered by at +least directing attention to it.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page148" id="page148"></a>[pg 148]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION XI.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Some Islands discovered.—Account of the Natives of Atooi, +who came off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on +board.—One of them killed.—Precautions used to prevent +Intercourse with the Females.—A Watering-place found.—Reception +upon landing.—Excursion into the Country.—A +Morai visited and described.—Graves of the Chiefs, and of +the human Sacrifices, there buried.—Another Island, called +Oneeheow, visited.—Ceremonies performed by the Natives, +who go off to the Ships.—Reasons for believing that they are +Cannibals.—A Party sent ashore, who remain two Nights.—Account +of what passed on landing.—The Ships leave, the +Islands, and proceed to the North.</i></blockquote> + +<p>On the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, +and resumed our course to the N., having fine weather, and +a gentle breeze at E., and E.S.E., till we got into the latitude +of 7° 45' N., and the longitude of 205° E., where we +had one calm day. This was succeeded by a N.E. by E., +and E.N.E. wind. At first it blew faint, but freshened as +we advanced to the N. We continued to see birds every +day of the sorts last mentioned, sometimes in greater numbers +than others, and between the latitude of 10° and 11°, +we saw several turtles. All these are looked upon as signs +of the vicinity of land. However, we discovered none till +day-break, in the morning of the 18th, when an island +made its appearance, bearing N.E. by E.; and soon after, +we saw more land bearing N., and entirely detached from +the former. Both had the appearance of being high land. +At noon, the first bore N.E. by E. 1/2 E., by estimation about +eight or nine leagues distant; and an elevated hill, near the +east end of the other, bore N. 1/2 W. Our latitude, at this +time, was 21° 12' N., and longitude 200° 41' E. We had +now light airs and calms by turns, so that, at sunset, we +were not less than nine or ten leagues from the nearest +land.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, at sun-rise, the island first seen, bore E., +several leagues distant. This being directly to windward, +which prevented our getting near it, I stood for the +other, which we could reach; and, not long after, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page149" id="page149"></a>[pg 149]</span> +discovered a third island in the direction of W.N.W., as far distant +as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at +E. by N., and I steered for the east end of the second +island, which, at noon, extended from N. 1/2 E. to W.N.W. +1/4 W., the nearest part being about two leagues distant. At +this time, we were in some doubt whether or no the land +before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon cleared +up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward +the ships. I immediately brought-to, to give them +time to join us. They had from three to six men each; +and, on their approach, we were agreeably surprised to find +that they spoke the language of Otaheite, and of the other +islands we had lately visited. It required but very little address +to get them to come along-side; but no entreaties +could prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied +some brass medals to a rope, and gave them to those in one +of the canoes, who, in return, tied some small mackerel to +the rope as an equivalent. This was repeated; and some +small nails, or bits of iron, which they valued more than +any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged +more fish and a sweet potatoe, a sure sign that +they had some notion of bartering, or, at least, of returning +one present for another. They had nothing else in their +canoes, except some large gourd shells, and a kind of fishing-net; +but one of them offered for sale the piece of stuff +that he wore round his waist, after the manner of the other +islands. These people were of a brown colour; and, though +of the common size, were stoutly made. There was little +difference in the casts of their colour, but a considerable +variation in their features, some of their visages not being +very unlike those of Europeans. The hair of most of them +was cropt pretty short, others had it flowing loose, and, with +a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In +all it seemed to be naturally black; but most of them had +stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with +some stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general +they wore their beards. They had no ornaments about +their persons, nor did we observe that their ears were perforated; +but some were punctured on the hands, or near +the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits of cloth +which they wore, were curiously-stained with red, black, +and white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no +arms of any kind, if we except some small stones, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page150" id="page150"></a>[pg 150]</span> +they had evidently brought for their own defence, and these +they threw overboard when they found that they were not +wanted.</p> + +<p>Seeing no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern extreme +of the island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged +along the S.E. side, at the distance of half a league from +the shore. As soon as we made sail the canoes left us; but +others came off as we proceeded along the coast, bringing +with them roasting-pigs, and some very fine potatoes, which +they had exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever +was offered to them. Several small pigs were purchased for +a sixpenny nail, so that we again found ourselves in a land +of plenty, and just at the time when the turtle, which we +had so fortunately procured at Christmas Island, were nearly +expended. We passed several villages, some seated near +the sea, and others farther up the country. The inhabitants +of all of them crowded to the shore, and collected +themselves on the elevated places to view the ships. The +land upon this side of the island rises in a gentle slope, +from the sea to the foot of the mountains, which occupy +the centre of the country, except at one place near the east +end, where they rise directly from the sea, and seemed to +be formed of nothing but stone, or rocks lying in horizontal +<i>strata</i>. We saw no wood but what was up in the interior +part of the island, except a few trees about the villages, +near which, also, we could observe several plantations of +plantains and sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated +for roots.</p> + +<p>We continued to sound, without striking ground with a +line of fifty fathoms, till we came abreast of a low point, +which is about the middle of the east side of the island, or +rather nearer the N.W. end. Here we met with twelve and +fourteen fathoms over a rocky bottom. Being past this +point, from which the coast trended more northerly, we had +twenty, then sixteen, twelve, and, at last, five fathoms over +a sandy bottom. The last soundings were about a mile +from the shore. Night now put a stop to any farther researches, +and we spent it standing off and on. The next +morning we stood in for the land, and were met by several +canoes filled with people, some of whom took courage +and ventured on board.</p> + +<p>In the course of my several voyages I never before met +with the natives of any place so much astonished, as these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page151" id="page151"></a>[pg 151]</span> +people were upon entering a ship. Their eyes were continually +flying from object to object; the wildness of their +looks and gestures fully expressing their entire ignorance +about every thing they saw, and strongly marking to us, +that, till now, they had never been visited by Europeans, +nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except +iron; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, +or had known it in some small quantity, brought to them +at some distant period. They seemed only to understand +that it was a substance much better adapted to the purposes +of cutting or of boring of holes, than any thing their +own country produced. They asked for it by the name of +<i>hamaite</i>, probably referring to some instrument, in the making +of which iron could be usefully employed; for they +applied that name to the blade of a knife, though we could +be certain that they had no idea of that particular instrument, +nor could they at all handle it properly. For the +same reason they frequently called iron by the name of <i>toe</i>, +which, in their language, signifies a hatchet, or rather a +kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately +answered, "We do not know; you know what it is, +and we only understand it as <i>toe</i>, or <i>hamaite</i>." When we +shewed them some beads, they asked first, "What they +were;" and then "whether they should eat them." But on +their being told that they were to be hung in their ears, +they returned them as useless. They were equally indifferent +as to a looking-glass, which was offered them, and returned +it for the same reason; but sufficiently expressed +their desire for <i>hamaite</i> and <i>toe</i>, which they wished might be +very large. Plates of earthen-ware, china-cups, and other +such things, were so new to them, that they asked if they +were made of wood, but wished to have some, that they +might carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in +some respects, naturally well-bred; or, at least, fearful of +giving offence, asking whether they should sit down, whether +they should spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of +them repeated a long prayer before they came on board; +and others afterward sung and made motions with their +hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the dances +of the islands we had lately visited. There was another circumstance +in which they also perfectly resembled those +other islanders. At first, on their entering the ship, they +endeavoured to steal every thing they came near, or rather +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page152" id="page152"></a>[pg 152]</span> +to take it openly, as what we either should not resent, or +not hinder. We soon convinced them of their mistake; +and if they, after some time, became less active in appropriating +to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was +because they found that we kept a watchful eye over them.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three +armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, +to look for a landing-place, and for fresh water. I ordered +him, that if he should find it necessary to land in +search of the latter, not to suffer more than one man to go +with him out of the boats. Just as they were putting off +from the ship, one of the natives having stole the butcher's +cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened +to the shore, the boats pursuing him in vain.</p> + +<p>The order not to permit the crews of the boats to go on +shore was issued, that I might do every thing in my power +to prevent the importation of a fatal disease into this island, +which I knew some of our men now laboured under, and +which, unfortunately, had been already communicated by +us to other islands in these seas. With the same view I +ordered all female visitors to be excluded from the ships. +Many of them had come off in the canoes. Their size, colour, +and features did not differ much from those of the +men; and though their countenances were remarkably open +and agreeable, there were few traces of delicacy to be seen, +either in their faces, or other proportions. The only difference +in their dress was their having a piece of cloth about +the body, reaching from near the middle to half-way down +the thighs, instead of the <i>maro</i> worn by the other sex. They +would as readily have favoured us with their company on +board as the men; but I wished to prevent all connection, +which might, too probably, convey an irreparable injury to +themselves, and, through their means, to the whole nation. +Another necessary precaution was taken, by strictly enjoining, +that no person known to be capable of propagating the +infection, should be sent upon duty out of the ships.</p> + +<p>Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had +the desired effect or no, time only can discover. I had been +equally attentive to the same object, when I first visited the +Friendly Islands, yet I afterwards found, with real concern, +that I had not succeeded. And I am much afraid that this +will always be the case in such voyages as ours, whenever it +is necessary to have a number of people on shore. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page153" id="page153"></a>[pg 153]</span> +opportunities and inducements to an intercourse between the +sexes are then too numerous to be guarded against; and, +however confident we may be of the health of our men, we +are often undeceived too late. It is even a matter of doubt +with me, if it be always in the power of the most skilful of +the faculty to pronounce, with any certainty, whether a +person who has been under their care, in certain stages of +this malady, is so effectually cured, as to leave no possibility +of his being still capable of communicating the taint. +I think I could mention some instances which justify my +presuming to hazard this opinion. It is likewise well known, +that amongst a number of men, there are, generally, to be +found some so bashful as to endeavour to conceal their labouring +under any symptoms of this disorder. And there +are others again, so profligate, as not to care to whom they +communicate it. Of this last we had an instance at Tongataboo, +in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed +on shore to manage the trade for that ship. After +he knew that he had contracted this disease, he continued +to have connections with different women, who were supposed +not to have already contracted it. His companions +expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Clerke, +hearing of this dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered +him on board.<a id="footnotetag32" name="footnotetag32"></a><a href="#footnote32"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, +we stood on and off with the ships, waiting for their return. +About noon, Mr Williamson came back, and reported that +he had seen a large pond behind a beach near one of the +villages, which the natives told him contained fresh water, +and that there was anchoring-ground before it. He also reported +that he had attempted to land in another place, but +was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the +boats in great numbers, attempted to take away the oars, +musquets, and, in short, every thing that they could lay +hold of, and pressed so thick upon him, that he was obliged +to fire, by which one man was killed. But this unhappy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page154" id="page154"></a>[pg 154]</span> +circumstance I did not know till after we had left the island, +so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the +kind had happened. Mr Williamson told me, that after the +man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and +then retired from the boat; but still they made signals for +our people to land, which he declined. It did not appear +to Mr Williamson, that the natives had any design to kill, +or even to hurt, any of his party; but they seemed excited +by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being, +at the same time, ready to give in return, any thing of their +own.</p> + +<p>After the boats were on board, I dispatched one of them +to lie in the best anchoring-ground; and as soon as she had +got to this station, I bore down with the ships, and anchored +in twenty-five fathoms water, the bottom a fine grey +sand. The east point of the road, which was the low point +before-mentioned, bore S. 51° E., the west point N. 65° W., +and the village, behind which the water was said to be, +N.E. by E., distant one mile. But, little more than a quarter +of a mile from us, there were breakers, which I did not +see till after the Resolution was placed. The Discovery anchored +to the eastward of us, and farther from the land. +The ships being thus stationed, between three and four +o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats, and twelve +marines, to examine the water, and to try the disposition +of the inhabitants, several hundreds of whom were assembled +on a sandy beach before the village; behind it was a +narrow valley, the bottom of which was occupied by the +piece of water.</p> + +<p>The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of +the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in +that very humble posture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed +upon them to rise. They then brought a great many +small pigs, which they presented to me, with plantain trees, +using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised +on such occasions, at the Society and other islands; +and a long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which +others of the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my +acceptance of their proffered friendship, by giving them, in +return, such presents as I had brought with me from the +ship for that purpose. When this introductory business was +finished, I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some +of the natives to conduct me to the water, which proved to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page155" id="page155"></a>[pg 155]</span> +be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose. It +was so considerable, that it may be called a lake; and it +extended farther up the country than we could see. Having +satisfied myself about this very essential point, and about +the peaceable disposition of the natives, I returned on board, +and then gave orders that every thing should be in readiness +for landing and filling our water-casks in the morning, +when I went ashore with the people employed in that service, +having a party of marines with us for a guard, who +were stationed on the beach.</p> + +<p>As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs +and potatoes, which the people of the island gave us in exchange +for nails and pieces of iron, formed into something +like chisels. We met with no obstruction in watering; on +the contrary, the natives assisted our men in rolling the +casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever +we required. Every thing thus going on to my satisfaction, +and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, +I left the command to Mr Williamson, who had +landed with me, and made an excursion into the country, +up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson and Mr Webber; +the former of whom was as well qualified to describe +with the pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, +every thing we might meet with worthy of observation. A +numerous train of natives followed us; and one of them, +whom I had distinguished for his activity in keeping the +rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man, +from time to time, proclaimed our approach; and every one +whom we met, fell prostrate upon the ground, and remained +in that position till we had passed. This, as I afterward +understood, is the mode of paying their respect to their own +great chiefs. As we ranged down the coast from the east, +in the ships, we had observed at every village one or more +elevated white objects, like pyramids or other obelisks; and +one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet high, +was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and +seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have +a nearer inspection of it, was the principal object of my +walk. Our guide perfectly understood that we wished to +be conducted to it. But it happened to be so placed, that +we could not get at it, being separated from us by the pool +of water. However, there being another of the same kind +within our reach, about half a mile off, upon our side of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page156" id="page156"></a>[pg 156]</span> +valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, +we saw that it stood in a burying-ground, or <i>morai</i>, the resemblance +of which, in many respects to those we were so +well acquainted with at other islands in this ocean, and particularly +Otaheite, could not but strike us; and we also soon +found, that the several parts that compose it, were called +by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable +extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet +high. The space inclosed was loosely paved with smaller +stones; and at one end of it, stood what I call the pyramid, +but, in the language of the island, is named <i>henananoo</i>, +which appeared evidently to be an exact model of the larger +one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet +square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four +sides were composed of small poles interwoven with twigs +and branches, thus forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow +or open within, from bottom to top. It seemed to be +rather in a ruinous state; but there were sufficient remaining +marks to shew that it had originally been covered with +a thin light grey cloth, which these people, it would seem, +consecrate to religions purposes, as we could see a good +deal of it hanging in different parts of the <i>morai</i>, and some +of it had been forced upon me when I first landed. On each +side of the pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work, called +<i>hereanee</i>, in the same ruinous condition, with two slender +poles, inclining to each other, at one corner, where some +plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at the height of five +or six feet. This they called <i>herairemy</i>; and informed us, +that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it +agree exactly with the <i>whatta</i> of Otaheite. Before the <i>henananoo</i> +were a few pieces of wood, carved into something +like human figures, which, with a stone near two feet high, +covered with pieces of cloth, called <i>hoho</i>, and consecrated +to <i>Tongarooa</i>, who is the god of these people, still more and +more reminded us of what we used to meet with in the <i>morais</i> +of the islands we had lately left. Adjoining to these, +on the outside of the <i>morai</i>, was a small shed, no bigger +than a dog-kennel, which they called <i>hareepahoo</i>; and before +it was a grave, where, as we were told, the remains of +a woman lay.</p> + +<p>On the farther side of the area of the <i>morai</i>, stood a house +or shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each +end being narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page157" id="page157"></a>[pg 157]</span> +though much longer, was lower than their common dwelling +places, we were informed, was called <i>hemanaa</i>. The +entrance into it was at the middle of the side, which was in +the <i>morai</i>. On the farther side of this house, opposite the +entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, +with pedestals, in all about three feet high, neither very indifferently +designed or executed. These were said to be <i>Eatooa +no Veheina</i>, or representations of goddesses. On the head +of one of them was a carved helmet, not unlike those worn, +by the ancient warriors; and on that of the other, a cylindrical +cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, called +<i>tomou</i>; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the +loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side +of each, was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the +cloth hung on them, in the same manner; and between, or +before, the pedestals, lay a quantity of fern, in a heap. It +was obvious, that this had been deposited there, piece by +piece, and at different times; for there was of it, in all +states, from what was quite decayed, to what was still fresh +and green.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the house, and before the two images, +was an oblong space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, +and covered with shreds of the cloth so often mentioned. +This, on enquiry, we found was the grave of seven chiefs, +whose names were enumerated, and the place was called +<i>Heneene</i>. We had met already with so many striking instances +of resemblance, between the burying-place we were +now visiting, and those of the islands we had lately come +from in the South Pacific, that we had little doubt in our +minds, that the resemblance existed also, in the ceremonies +practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of offering +human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed +by direct evidence. For, on coming out of the house, +just on one side of the entrance, we saw a small square +place, and another still less, near it; and on asking what +these were, our guide immediately informed us, that in +the one was buried a man who had been sacrificed; a <i>Taa-ta</i> +(<i>Tanata</i> or <i>Tangata</i>, in this country) <i>taboo</i> (<i>tafoo</i>, as here +pronounced); and in the other, a hog, which had also been +made an offering to the divinity. At a little distance from +these, near the middle of the <i>morai</i>, were three more of +these square inclosed places, with two pieces of carved wood +at each, and upon them a heap of fern. These, we were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page158" id="page158"></a>[pg 158]</span> +told, were the graves of three chiefs; and before them was +an oblong, inclosed space, to which our conductor also gave +the name of <i>Tangata taboo</i>; telling us, so explicitly, that we +could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices +had been buried there; that is, one at the funeral of each +chief. It was with most sincere concern, that I could trace, +on such undoubted evidence, the prevalence of these bloody +rites, throughout this immense ocean, amongst people disjoined +by such a distance, and even ignorant of each other's +existence, though so strongly marked as originally of the +same nation. It was no small addition to this concern, to +reflect, that every appearance led us to believe, that the +barbarous practice was very general here. The island seemed +to abound with such places of sacrifice as this which we +were now visiting, and which appeared to be one of the +most inconsiderable of them, being far less conspicuous than +several others which we had seen, as we sailed along the +coast, and particularly than that on the opposite side of the +water, in this valley, the white <i>henananoo</i>, or pyramid, of +which, we were now almost sure, derived its colour only +from pieces of the consecrated cloth laid over it. In several +parts, within the inclosure of this burying-ground, were +planted trees of the <i>cordia sebestina</i> some of the <i>morinda +citrifolia</i>, +and several plants of the <i>etee</i>, or <i>jeejee</i>, of Tongataboo, +with the leaves of which the <i>hemanaa</i> was thatched; +and, as I observed, that this plant was not made use of in +thatching their dwelling-houses, probably it is reserved entirely +for religious purposes.</p> + +<p>Our road to and from the <i>morai</i>, which I have described, +lay through the plantations. The greatest part of the ground +was quite flat, with ditches full of water intersecting different +parts, and roads that seemed artificially raised to some +height. The interspaces were, in general, planted with <i>taro</i>, +which grows here with great strength, as the fields are sunk +below the common level, so as to contain the water necessary +to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from +the same source, which supplies the large pool from which +we filled our casks. On the drier spaces were several spots, +where the cloth-mulberry was planted, in regular rows; +also growing vigorously, and kept very clean. The cocoa-trees +were not in so thriving a state, and were all low, but +the plantain-trees made a better appearance, though they +were not large. In general, the trees round this village, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page159" id="page159"></a>[pg 159]</span> +which were seen at many of those which we passed before +we anchored, are the <i>cordia sebestina</i>, but of a more diminutive +size than the product of the southern isles. The greatest +part of the village stands near the beach, and consists of +above sixty houses there; but, perhaps, about forty more +stand scattered about, farther up the country, toward the +burying-place.</p> + +<p>After we had examined, very carefully, every thing that +was to be seen about the <i>morai</i>, and Mr Webber had taken +drawings of it, and of the adjoining country, we returned +by a different route. I found a great crowd assembled at +the beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots, going +on there, with the greatest good order, though I did not +observe any particular person, who took the lead amongst +the rest of his countrymen. At noon, I went on board to +dinner, and then sent Mr King to command the party +ashore. He was to have gone upon that service in the +morning, but was then detained in the ship, to make lunar +observations. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied +by Captain Clerke, with a view to make another excursion +up the country. But, before this could be put in +execution, the day was too far spent, so that I laid aside my +intention for the present, and it so happened that I had not +another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body on +board, having procured, in the course of the day, nine tons +of water; and, by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of +iron, about seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity +of potatoes, and a few plantains and <i>taro</i> roots. These people +merited our best commendations, in this commercial intercourse, +never once attempting to cheat us, either ashore +or alongside the ships. Some of them, indeed, as already +mentioned, at first betrayed a thievish disposition, or rather +they thought, that they had a right to every thing they +could lay their hands upon; but they soon laid aside a conduct, +which, we convinced them, they could not persevere +in with impunity.</p> + +<p>Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this +day, we could not help taking notice of a particular sort of +cloak and cap, which, even in countries where dress is more +particularly attended to, might be reckoned elegant. The +first are nearly of the size and shape of the short cloaks +worn by the women in England, and by the men in Spain +reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page160" id="page160"></a>[pg 160]</span> +The ground of them is a net-work, upon which the most +beautiful red and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that +the surface might be compared to the thickest and richest +velvet, which they resemble, both as to the feel, and the +glossy appearance. The manner of varying the mixture is +very different, some having triangular spaces of red and +yellow, alternately, others a kind of crescent; and some, that +were entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made +them appear, at some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak +edged with gold lace. The brilliant colours of the feathers, +in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their +fine appearance, and we found that they were in high estimation +with their owners, for they would not, at first, part +with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no +less a price than a musket. However, some were afterward +purchased for very large nails. Such of them as were of +the best sort, were scarce; and it should seem, that they +are only used on the occasion of some particular ceremony, +or diversion; for the people who had them, always made +some gesticulations, which we had seen used before by those +who sung.</p> + +<p>The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the +middle part, or crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth; and +it sits very close upon the head, having notches to admit +the ears. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, covered with a +net work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same +manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less +diversified, the greater part being red, with some black +yellow, or green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction +of the crest. These, probably, complete the dress, +with the cloaks, for the natives sometimes appeared in both +together.</p> + +<p>We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get +such a quantity of these beautiful feathers, but were soon +informed as to one sort, for they afterward brought great +numbers of skins of small red birds for sale, which were often +tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or had a small +wooden skewer run through their nostrils. At the first, +those that were bought, consisted only of the skin from behind +the wings forward, but we afterwards got many with +the hind part, including the tail and feet. The first, however, +struck us at once with the origin of the fable formerly +adopted, of the birds of paradise wanting legs, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page161" id="page161"></a>[pg 161]</span> +sufficiently explained that circumstance. Probably the people +of the islands east of the Moluccas, from whence the skins +of the birds of paradise are brought, cut off their feet, for +the very reason assigned by the people of Atooi, for the like +practice, which was, that they thereby can preserve them +with greater ease, without losing any part which they reckon +valuable. The red-bird of our island was judged by Mr +Anderson to be a species of <i>merops</i>, about the size of a sparrow, +of a beautiful scarlet colour, with a black tail and +wings, and an arched bill, twice the length of the head, +which, with the feet, was also of a reddish colour. The contents +of the heads were taken out, as in the birds of paradise; +but it did not appear that they used any other method +to preserve them, than by simple drying, for the skins, +though moist, had neither a taste nor smell that could give +room to suspect the use of antiputrescent substances.<a id="footnotetag33" name="footnotetag33"></a><a href="#footnote33"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained +almost continually. The wind was at S.E., S.S.E., and S., +which brought in a short, chopping sea; and as there were +breakers little more than two cables length from the stern +of our ship, her situation was none of the safest. The surf +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page162" id="page162"></a>[pg 162]</span> +broke so high against the shore, that we could not land in +our boats; but the day was not wholly lost, for the natives +ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the ships hogs and +roots, which they bartered as before. One of our visitors, +on this occasion, who offered some fish-hooks to sale, was +observed to have a very small parcel, tied to the string of +one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserved +for himself, when he parted with the hook. Being +asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and spoke something +of its being dead, at the same time saying, it was +bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more questions +about it. On seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents +of this parcel, he was requested to open it, which he +did with great reluctance and some difficulty, as it was +wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that it contained +a thin bit of flesh, about two inches long, which, to +appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with salt water. +It struck us, that it might be human flesh, and that +these people might, perhaps, eat their enemies, as we knew +that this was the practice of some of the natives of the +South Sea islands. The question being put to the person +who produced it, he answered, that the flesh was part of a +man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by him, was +then asked, whether it was their custom to eat those killed +in battle? and he immediately answered in the affirmative.</p> + +<p>There were some intervals of fair weather in the afternoon, +and the wind then inclined to the E. and N.E. but, +in the evening, it veered back again to S.S.E., and the +rain also returned, and continued all night. Very luckily, +it was not attended with much wind. We had, however, +prepared for the worst, by dropping the small bower-anchor, +and striking our top-gallant-yards.</p> + +<p>At seven o'clock the next morning, a breeze of wind +springing up at N.E., I took up the anchors, with a view of +removing the ship farther out. The moment that the last +anchor was up, the wind veered to the E., which made it +necessary to set all the sail we could, in order to clear the +shore; so that, before we had tolerable sea-room, we were +driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off, +with a view to regain the road; but having very little wind, +and a strong current against us, I found that this was not +to be effected. I therefore dispatched Messrs King and +Williamson ashore, with three boats, for water, and to trade +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page163" id="page163"></a>[pg 163]</span> +for refreshments. At the same time, I sent an order to +Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see that +I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding +one, or perhaps a harbour, at the west end of the island, I +was the less anxious about getting back to my former station. +But as I had sent the boats thither, we kept to windward +as much as possible, notwithstanding which, at noon, +we were three leagues to leeward. As we drew near the +west end of the island, we found the coast to round gradually +to the N.E., without forming a creek, or cove, to shelter +a vessel from the force of the swell, which rolled in from +the N., and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf, so +that all hopes of finding a harbour here vanished.</p> + +<p>Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us +as we stood out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. +Being very averse to believe these people to be cannibals, +notwithstanding the suspicious circumstance which +had happened the day before, we took occasion now to +make some more enquiries about this. A small wooden instrument, +beset with sharks teeth, had been purchased; and +from its resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New +Zealanders, to dissect the bodies of their enemies, it was +suspected to have the same use here. One of the natives +being asked about this, immediately gave the name of the +instrument, and told us, that it was used to cut out the +fleshy part of the belly, when any person was killed. This +explained and confirmed the circumstance above-mentioned, +of the person pointing to his belly. The man, however, +from whom we now had this information, being asked, if +his countrymen eat the part thus cut out? denied it strongly, +but, upon the question being repeated, shewed some degree +of fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached +it, he made signs, as he had done before, expressive of +the use of the instrument. And an old man, who sat foremost +in the canoe, being then asked whether they eat the +flesh? answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly +at the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact, +on being asked again; and also said, it was excellent food, +or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating."<a id="footnotetag34" name="footnotetag34"></a><a href="#footnote34"><sup>3</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page164" id="page164"></a>[pg 164]</span> + +<p>At seven o'clock in the evening, the boats returned, with +two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and +some roots. Mr King informed me, that a great number +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page165" id="page165"></a>[pg 165]</span> +of the inhabitants were at the watering or landing place. +He supposed that they had come from all parts of the island. +They had brought with them a great many fine fat hogs to +barter, but my people had not commodities with them equal +to the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we +had already got as many on board as we could well manage +for immediate use, and, wanting the materials, we could not +have salted them. Mr King also told me, that a great deal +of rain had fallen ashore, whereas, out at sea, we had only +a few showers; and that the surf had run so high, that it +was with great difficulty our men landed, and got back into +the boats.</p> + +<p>We had light airs and calms, by turns, with showers of +rain, all night, and at day-break, in the morning of the +24th, we found that the currents had carried the ship to the +N.W. and N., so that the west end of the island, upon which +we had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore E., one +league distant; another island, called Oreehoua, W. by S., +and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from +S.W. by W. to W.S.W. Soon after, a breeze sprung up +at N.; and, as I expected that this would bring the Discovery +to sea, I steered for Oneeheow, in order to take a +nearer view of it, and to anchor there, if I should find a +convenient place. I continued to steer for it, till past eleven +o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from +it. But not seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful whether +they could see us, I was fearful lest some ill consequence +might attend our separating so far. I therefore gave +up the design of visiting Oneeheow for the present, and +stood back to Atooi, with an intent to anchor again in the +road, to complete our water. At two o'clock in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page166" id="page166"></a>[pg 166]</span> +afternoon, the northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by +variable light airs and calms, that continued till eleven at +night, with which we stretched to the S.E., till day-break +in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked and stood in +for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us; and, soon +after, we were joined by the Discovery.</p> + +<p>We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward +of the road, which, though so near, we never could recover, +for what we gained at one time, we lost at another; so that, +by the morning of the 29th, the currents had carried us +westward, within three leagues of Oneeheow. Being tired +with plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of getting +back to Atooi, and came to the resolution of trying, +whether we could not procure what we wanted at the other +island, which was within our reach. With this view, I sent +the master in a boat, to sound the coast, to look out for a +landing-place, and, if he should find one, to examine if +fresh water could be conveniently got in its neighbourhood. +To give him time to execute his commission, we followed, +under an easy sail, with the ships. As soon as we were +abreast, or to the westward of the south point of Oneeheow, +we found thirty, twenty-five, and twenty fathoms water, +over a bottom of coral sand, a mile from the shore.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock the master returned, and reported that he +had landed in one place, but could find no fresh water; and +that there was anchorage all along the coast. Seeing a village +a little farther to leeward, and some of the islanders, +who had come off to the ships, informing us, that fresh water +might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor +before it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three quarters +of a mile from the shore. The S.E. point of the island bore +S. 65° E., three miles distant; the other extreme of the +island bore N. by E., about two or three miles distant; a +peaked hill, inland, N.E. 1/4 E.; and another island, called +Tahoora, which was discovered the preceding evening, +bore S. 61° W., distant seven leagues.</p> + +<p>Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, +bringing some small pigs and potatoes, and a good +many yams and mats. The people in them resembled those +of Atooi, and seemed to be equally well acquainted with the +use of iron, which they asked for also by the names of <i>hamaite</i> +and <i>toe</i>, parting readily with all their commodities for +pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes soon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page167" id="page167"></a>[pg 167]</span> +reached the ships, after they had anchored; but the natives +in these seemed to have no other object, than to pay us a +formal visit. Many of them came readily on board, crouching +down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble posture, +till they were desired to get up. They had brought +several females with them, who remained alongside in the +canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen +of Atooi; and, at times, all joining in a song, not +remarkable for its melody, though performed in very exact +concert, by beating time upon their breasts with their hands. +The men who had come on board did not stay long; and +before they departed, some of them requested our permission +to lay down, on the deck, locks of their hair.</p> + +<p>These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating +again, this day, the curious enquiry, whether they were +cannibals; and the subject did not take its rise from any +questions of ours, but from a circumstance that seemed to +remove all ambiguity. One of the islanders, who wanted +to get in at the gun-room port, was refused, and at the same +time asked, whether, if he should come in, we would kill +and eat him? accompanying this question with signs so expressive, +that there could be no doubt about his meaning. +This gave a proper opening to retort the question as to this +practice; and a person behind the other, in the canoe, who +paid great attention to what was passing, immediately answered, +that if we were killed on shore, they would certainly +eat us. He spoke with so little emotion, that it appeared +plainly to be his meaning, that they would not destroy +us for that purpose, but that their eating us would be the +consequence of our being at enmity with them. I have +availed myself of Mr Anderson's collections for the decision +of this matter, and am sorry to say, that I cannot see +the least reason to hesitate in pronouncing it to be certain, +that the horrid banquet of human flesh is as much relished +here, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I sent Lieutenant Gore, with three +armed boats, to look for the most convenient landing-place; +and, when on shore, to search for fresh water. In +the evening he returned, having landed at the village above-mentioned, +and acquainted me that he had been conducted +to a well half a mile up the country; but, by his account, +the quantity of water it contained was too inconsiderable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page168" id="page168"></a>[pg 168]</span> +for our purpose, and the road leading to it exceedingly +bad.</p> + +<p>On the 30th, I sent Mr Gore ashore again, with a guard +of marines, and a party to trade with the natives for refreshments. +I intended to have followed soon after, and +went from the ship with that design. But the surf had increased +so much by this time, that I was fearful, if I got +ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really +happened to our people who had landed with Mr Gore, the +communication between them and the ships, by our own +boats, being stopped. In the evening, they made a signal +for the boats, which were sent accordingly; and, not long +after, they returned with a few yams and some salt. A +tolerable quantity of both had been procured in the course +of the day; but the surf was so great, that the greatest part +of both these articles had been lost in conveying them to +the boats. The officer and twenty men, deterred by the +danger of coming off, were left ashore all night; and, by +this unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, +which, as I have already mentioned, I wished so heartily to +prevent, and vainly imagined I had effectually guarded +against. The violence of the surf, which our own boats +could not act against, did not hinder the natives from coming +off to the ships in their canoes. They brought refreshments +with them, which were purchased in exchange +for nails, and pieces of iron-hoops; and I distributed a good +many pieces of ribbon, and some buttons, as bracelets, +amongst the women in the canoes. One of the men had +the figure of a lizard punctured upon his breast, and upon +those of others were the figures of men badly imitated. +These visitors informed us, that there was no chief, or <i>Hairee</i>, +of this island; but that it was subject to Teneooneoo, +a chief of Atooi; which island, they said, was not governed +by a single chief, but that there were many to whom +they paid the honour of <i>moe</i>, or prostration; and, amongst +others, they named, Otaeaio and Terarotoa. Among other +things, which these people now brought off, was a small +drum, almost like those of Otaheite.</p> + +<p>About ten or eleven o'clock at night, the wind veered to +the S., and the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With +such appearances, thinking that we were rather too near +the shore, I ordered the anchors to be taken up, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page169" id="page169"></a>[pg 169]</span> +having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came to +again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved +to be unnecessary; for the wind, soon after, veered to +N.E., from which quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, +attended with very heavy showers of rain.</p> + +<p>This weather continued all the next day; and the sea +ran so high, that we had no manner of communication with +our party on shore; and even the natives themselves durst +not venture out to the ships in their canoes. In the evening, +I sent the master in a boat up to the S.E. head, or +point of the island, to try if he could land under it. He returned +with a favourable report; but it was too late, now, +to send for our party till the next morning; and thus they +had another night to improve their intercourse with the +natives.</p> + +<p>Encouraged by the master's report, I sent a boat to the +S.E. point, as soon as day-light returned, with an order to +Mr Gore, that, if he could not embark his people from the +spot where they now were, to march them up to the point. +As the boat could not get to the beach, one of the crew +swam ashore, and carried the order. On the return of the +boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the +point, to bring the party on board; taking with me a ram-goat +and two ewes, a boar and sow-pig of the English +breed, and the seeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions, being +very desirous of benefiting these poor people, by furnishing +them with some additional articles of food. I +landed with the greatest ease, under the west side of the +point, and found my party already there, with some of the +natives in company. To one of them, whom Mr Gore +had observed assuming some command over the rest, I +gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these +well-intended presents at Atooi, had we not been so unexpectedly +driven from it.</p> + +<p>While the people were engaged in filling four water-casks, +from a small stream occasioned by the late rain, I +walked a little way up the country, attended by the man +above-mentioned, and followed by two others carrying the +two pigs. As soon as we got upon a rising ground, I stopped +to look round me, and observed a woman, on the opposite +side of the valley where I landed, calling to her +countrymen who attended me. Upon this, the chief began +to mutter something which I supposed was a prayer; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page170" id="page170"></a>[pg 170]</span> +and the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk +round me all the time, making, at least, a dozen circuits +before the other had finished his oration. This ceremony +being performed; we proceeded, and presently met people +coming from all parts, who, on being called to by my attendants, +threw themselves prostrate on their faces, till I +was out of sight. The ground, through which I passed, +was in a state of nature, very stony, and the soil seemed +poor. It was, however, covered with shrubs and plants, +some of which perfumed the air, with a more delicious +fragrancy than I had met with at any other of the islands +visited by us in this ocean. Our people, who had been obliged +to remain so long on shore, gave me the same account +of those parts of the island which they had traversed. They +met with several salt ponds, some of which had a little water +remaining, but others had none; and the salt that was +left in them was so thin, that no great quantity could have +been procured. There was no appearance of any running +stream; and though they found some small wells, in which +the fresh water was tolerably good, it seemed scarce. The +habitations of the natives were thinly scattered about; and +it was supposed, that there could not be more than five +hundred people upon the island, as the greatest part were +seen at the marketing-place of our party, and few found +about the houses by those who walked up the country. +They had an opportunity of observing the method of living +amongst the natives, and it appeared to be decent and +cleanly. They did not, however, see any instance of the +men and women eating together; and the latter seemed +generally associated in companies by themselves. It was +found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the <i>dooe dooe</i> +for lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked +their hogs in ovens, but, contrary to the practice of the Society +and Friendly Islands, split the carcases through their +whole length. They met with a positive proof of the existence +of the <i>taboo</i> (or, as they pronounce it, the <i>tafoo</i>), for +one woman fed another who was under that interdiction. +They also observed some other mysterious ceremonies; +one of which was performed by a woman, who took a small +pig, and threw it into the surf, till it was drowned, and then +tied up a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the +same manner. The same woman, at another time, beat +with a stick upon a man's shoulders, who sat down for that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page171" id="page171"></a>[pg 171]</span> +purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be paid here +to owls, which they have very tame; and it was observed +to be a pretty general practice amongst them, to pull out +one of their teeth;<a id="footnotetag35" name="footnotetag35"></a><a href="#footnote35"><sup>4</sup></a> for which odd custom, when asked the +reason, the only answer that could be got was, that it was +<i>teeha</i>, which was also the reason assigned for another of +their practices, the giving a lock of their hair.</p> + +<p>After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into +the boat, and we had purchased from the natives a few +roots, a little salt, and some salted fish, I returned on board +with all the people, intending to visit the island the next +day. But, about seven o'clock in the evening, the anchor +of the Resolution started, and she drove off the bank. As +we had a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor +was at the bows; and then we had the launch to hoist +up alongside, before we could make sail. By this unlucky +accident, we found ourselves, at day-break next morning, +three leagues to the leeward of our last station; and, foreseeing +that it would require more time to recover it than I +chose to spend, I made the signal for the Discovery to +weigh and join us. This was done about noon, and we immediately +stood away to the northward, in prosecution of +our voyage. Thus, after spending more time about these +islands than was necessary to have answered all our purposes, +we were obliged to leave them before we had completed +our water, and got from them such a quantity of refreshments +as their inhabitants were both able and willing +to have supplied us with. But, as it was, our ship procured +from them provisions, sufficient for three weeks at least; +and Captain Clerke, more fortunate than us, got, of their +vegetable productions, a supply that lasted his people upward +of two months. The observations I was enabled to +make, combined with those of Mr Anderson, who was a +very useful assistant on all such occasions, will furnish materials +for the next section.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote32" name="footnote32"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag32"> (return) </a><p>One can scarcely help smiling at the mode Dr Kippis uses to express +his abhorrence of this man's conduct. It may be seen in his account of +this voyage, given in the Biog. Brit. "If I knew the rascal's name," says +he, "I would hang it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy!" +Undoubtedly it richly deserved such treatment, but there was no +necessity for the doctor exhibiting such keenness for the office of +executioner.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote33" name="footnote33"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag33"> (return) </a><p>It is matter of real curiosity to observe, how very extensively the +predilection for red feathers is spread throughout all the islands of the +Pacific +Ocean; and the additional circumstance, mentioned in this paragraph, +will, probably, be looked upon by those who amuse themselves in +tracing the wonderful migrations of the same family, or tribe, as a confirmation +of that hypothesis, (built indeed on other instances of resemblance,) +which considers New Guinea, and its neighbouring East India +islands, from whence the Dutch bring their birds of Paradise, as originally +peopled by the same race, which Captain Cook found at every island from +New Zealand to this new group, to which Atooi belongs.</p> + +<p>What Mr Sonnerat tells us, about the bird of Paradise, agrees perfectly +with the account here given of the preserved red-birds. Speaking of the +<i>Papous</i>, he proceeds thus: "Ils nous présenterent plusieurs especes +d'oiseaux, +aussi élégants par leur forme, que brillants par l'éclat de leur couleurs. +La dépouille des oiseaux sert à la parure des Chefs, qui la portent +attachée à leurs bonnets en forme d'aigrettes. <i>Mais en preparant les +peaux, ils coupent les pieds</i>. Les Hollandois, qui trafiquent sur ces cotes, +y achetent de ces peaux ainsi préparées, les transportent en Perse, à Surate, +dans les Indes, où ils les vendent fort chère aux habitans riches, qui +en font des aigrettes pour leurs turbans, et pour le casque des guerriers, +et qui en parent leur chevaux. C'est de là qu'est venue l'opinion, qu'une +de ces especes d'oiseaux (l'oiseau de pardis) <i>n'a point de pattes</i>. Les +Hollandois +ont accrédité ces fables, qui, en jettant du merveilleux sur l'objet +dont ils traffiquoient, étoient propres à le rendre plus précieux, et á en +rechausser +la valeur."—Voyage à la Nouvelle Guinée, p. 154.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote34" name="footnote34"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag34"> (return) </a><p>Of this there can be no doubt, if the assertions of those who have +tried it be entitled to credit. When the reluctance, then, to use it is once +overcome, there is no reason to think it would ever be abandoned, if it +could be safely and conveniently procured. We have instances of this +on +record. Some persons necessitated, let us allow, to have recourse to it, +have continued the practice, where the doing so required the repeated +commission of murder. We formerly alluded to instances of this kind, and +we see in the case of the people before us, that hunger is not the only motive +for so abominable a repast. Admitting even that it were the original +one, we should expect the practice to be relinquished whenever other food +was to be had in sufficient quantity. But this we know by many proofs is +not the case; and perhaps, indeed, it will be found, that this odium is +fully as prevalent in savage countries, where nature has been bountiful, as +in those where a more stinted hand has inflicted poverty on the inhabitants. +The causes, then, and the remedies of this most shocking enormity, +are to be looked for in other circumstances than the scarcity or the +profusion of food. Here we may be allowed to join in opinion with Dr +Robertson. "Human flesh was never used as common food in any country, +and the various relations concerning people who reckoned it among +the stated means of subsistence, flow from the credulity and mistakes of +travellers. The rancour of revenge first prompted men to this barbarous +action." In addition to his opinion and that of the authors quoted by him, +in his History of America, lib. 4, the reader may advantageously consult Dr +Forster's Observations. If the sentiments maintained by these writers be +correct, we may expect to find cannibalism in almost every country where +the spirit of revenge is not curbed by principle, or directed by the authority +of a well-organized government. Here the evidence of these voyages +and of others which we could mention, must be allowed considerable importance. +There is the strongest reason, indeed, to believe that the inhabitants +of all the South Sea islands are now chargeable with this inhumanity, +or are but recently recovered from its dominion. We might easily +enlarge on this subject, but what has been said, it is probable, is sufficient +to direct the attention of the reader, which is all we could find, room +to do in the narrow compass of a note. But it is probable, that to most +persons, the observations of a late navigator, Captain Krusenstern, will be +admitted as decisive of the question of fact, without further enquiry. They +may have another effect too, viz. to destroy that delusion which many +persons labour under as to the innocence and amiableness of mankind in +a state of nature. "Notwithstanding," says he, "the favourable account +in Captain Cook's voyages of the Friendly, the Society, and the Sandwich +islands, and the enthusiasm with which Forster undertakes their defence +against all those who should make use of any harsh expression with regard +to them, I cannot refrain from declaring the inhabitants of all the islands +of this ocean to be savages, but as ranking generally, perhaps with a very +trifling exception, with those men who are still one degree below the brute +creation. In a word, they are all cannibals: We need only recollect the +islanders who have already been proved to belong to this class;—for instance, +the New Zealanders, the cruel inhabitants of Fidji, the Navigateur, +the Mendoza, Washington, the Tolomon, and Sandwich islands, the +islands of Louisiade and New Caledonia. The good name which the +inhabitants of the Friendly islands had acquired has suffered very +much by +the affair of Captain Bligh, and the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, and it may +now be maintained, with some degree of certainty, that they have in this +respect the same taste as their neighbours in the Fidji islands, and the +Isles des Navigateurs." He has more to the same effect, and is particular +in shewing how even the Society islanders, whom he admits to be the +most humane and civilized of all the natives of this region, are notwithstanding +deformed with horrid crimes, from which the passage to cannibalism +is very easy, supposing even that certain suspicious circumstances +do not warrant the opinion that they are but recently emerged from it. +And as to the people of New Caledonia, again, of whom Cook spoke so +highly, he alludes to the more recent information of D'Entrecasteaux, as +giving indisputable proof of their being addicted to the same abominable +enormity.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote35" name="footnote35"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag35"> (return) </a><p>It is very remarkable, that, in this custom, which one would think +is +so unnatural, as not to be adopted by two different tribes, originally +unconnected, +the people of this island, and Dampier's natives on the west +side of New Holland, at such an immense distance, should be found to +agree.—D.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page172" id="page172"></a>[pg 172]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION XII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>The Situation of the Islands now discovered.—Their Names.—Called +the Sandwich Islands.—Atooi described.—The +Soil.—Climate.—Vegetable Productions.—Birds.—Fish.—Domestic +Animals.—Persons of the Inhabitants.—Their +Disposition.—Dress.—Ornaments.—Habitations.—Food.—Cookery.—Amusements.—Manufactures.—Working-tools.—Knowledge +of Iron accounted for.—Canoes.—Agriculture.—Account +of one of their Chiefs.—Weapons.—Customs +agreeing with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite.—Their +Language the same.—Extent of this Nation throughout +the Pacific Ocean.—Reflections on the useful Situation +of the Sandwich Islands.</i></blockquote> + +<p>It is worthy of observation, that the islands in the Pacific +Ocean, which our late voyages have added to the geography +of the globe, have been generally found lying in +groups or clusters; the single intermediate islands, as yet +discovered, being few in proportion to the others; though, +probably, there are many more of them still unknown, +which serve as steps between the several clusters. Of what +number this newly-discovered Archipelago consists, must +be left for future investigation. We saw five of them, +whose names, as given to us by the natives, are Woahoo, +Atooi, Oneeheow, Orrehoua, and Tahoora. The last is a +small elevated island, lying four or five leagues from the +S.E. point of Oneeheow, in the direction of S., 69° W. +We were told, that it abounds with birds, which are its only +inhabitants. We also got some information of the existence +of a low uninhabited island in the neighbourhood, +whose name is Tammata pappa. Besides these six, which +we can distinguish by their names, it appeared, that the +inhabitants of those with whom we had intercourse, were +acquainted with some other islands both to the eastward +and westward. I named the whole group the Sandwich +Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Those that I +saw, are situated between the latitude of 21° 30', and 22° +15' N., and between the longitude of 199° 20', and 201° +30' E.</p> + +<p>Of Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands, seen by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page173" id="page173"></a>[pg 173]</span> +us, which lies in the latitude of 21° 36', we could get no +other intelligence, but that it is high land, and is inhabited.</p> + +<p>We had opportunities of knowing some particulars about +Oneeheow, which have been mentioned already. It lies +seven leagues to the westward of our anchoring-place at +Atooi; and is not above fifteen leagues in circuit. Its +chief vegetable produce is yams, if we may judge from +what was brought to us by the natives. They have salt, +which they call <i>patai</i>, and is produced in salt ponds. With +it they cure both fish and pork; and some salt fish, which +we got from them, kept very well, and were found to be +very good. This island is mostly low land, except the +part facing Atooi, which rises directly from the sea to a +good height; as does also the S.E. point of it, which terminates +in a round hill. It was on the west side of this +point where our ships anchored.</p> + +<p>Of Oreehoua we know nothing more than that it is a +small elevated island, lying close to the north side of Oneeheow.</p> + +<p>Atooi, which is the largest, being the principal scene of +our operations, I shall now proceed to lay before my readers +what information I was able to collect about it, either +from actual observation, while on shore, or from conversation +with its inhabitants, who were perpetually on board +the ships while we lay at anchor; and who, in general, +could be tolerably well understood, by those of us who had +acquired an acquaintance with the dialects of the South +Pacific Islands. It is, however, to be regretted, that we +should have been obliged, so soon, to leave a place, which, +as far as our opportunities of knowing reached, seemed to +be highly worthy of a more accurate examination.</p> + +<p>Atooi, from what we saw of it, is, at least, ten leagues in +length from east to west; from whence its circuit may +nearly be guessed, though it appears to be much broader +at the east than at the west point, if we may judge from the +double range of hills which appeared there. The road, or +anchoring-place, which we occupied, is on the south-west +side of the island, about six miles from the west end, before +a village which has the name of Wymoa. As far as we +sounded, we found, that the bank has a fine grey sand at +the bottom, and is free from rocks; except a little to the +eastward of the village, where there spits out a shoal, on +which are some rocks and breakers; but they are not far +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page174" id="page174"></a>[pg 174]</span> +from the shore. This road would be entirely sheltered +from the trade-wind, if the height of the land, over which +it blows, did not alter its direction, and make it follow that +of the coast; so that it blows at N.E., on one side of the +island, and at E.S.E., or S.E., on the other, falling obliquely +upon the shore. Thus the road, though situated on the +lee side of the island, is a little exposed to the trade-wind; +but, notwithstanding this defect, is far from being a bad +station, and much superior to those which necessity obliges +ships daily to use, in regions where the winds are both more +variable and more boisterous; as at Teneriffe, Madeira, the +Azores, and elsewhere. The landing too is more easy than +at most of those places; and, unless in very bad weather, +always practicable. The water to be got in the neighbourhood +is excellent, and easy to be conveyed to the boats. +But no wood can be cut at any distance, convenient enough +to bring it from, unless the natives could be prevailed upon +to part with the few <i>etooa</i> trees (for so they call the <i>cordia +sebestina</i>,) that grow about their villages, or a sort called +<i>dooe dooe</i>, that grow farther up the country.</p> + +<p>The land, as to its general appearance, does not, in the +least, resemble any of the islands we have hitherto visited +within the tropic, on the south side of the <i>equator</i>; if we +except its hills near the centre, which are high, but slope +gently to the sea, or lower lands. Though it be destitute +of the delightful borders of Otaheite, and of the luxuriant +plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once afford +a friendly shelter from the scorching sun, and an enchanting +prospect to the eye, and food for the natives, +which may be truly said to drop from the trees into their +mouths, without the laborious task of rearing; though, I +say, Atooi be destitute of these advantages, its possessing a +greater quantity of gently-rising land, renders it, in some +measure, superior to the above favourite islands, as being +more capable of improvement.</p> + +<p>The height of the land within, the quantity of clouds +which we saw, during the whole time we staid, hanging +over it, and frequently on the other parts, seems to put it +beyond all doubt, that there is a sufficient supply of water; +and that there are some running streams which we did not +see, especially in the deep valleys, at the entrance of which +the villages commonly stand. From the wooded part to +the sea, the ground is covered with an excellent sort of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page175" id="page175"></a>[pg 175]</span> +grass, about two feet high, which grows sometimes in tufts, +and, though not very thick at the place where we were, +seemed capable of being converted into plentiful crops of +fine hay. But not even a shrub grows naturally on this +extensive space.</p> + +<p>In the break, or narrow valley, through which we had +our road to the <i>morai</i>, the soil is of a brownish black colour, +somewhat loose; but as we advanced upon the high +ground, it changed to a reddish brown, more stiff and +clayey, though, at this time, brittle from its dryness. It is +most probably the same all over the cultivated parts; for, +what adhered to most of the potatoes, bought by us, which, +no doubt, came from very different spots, was of this sort. +Its quality, however, may be better understood from its +products, than from its appearance. For the vale, or moist +ground, produces <i>taro</i>, of a much larger size than any we +had ever seen; and the higher ground furnishes sweet potatoes, +that often weigh ten, and sometimes twelve or fourteen +pounds; very few being under two or three.</p> + +<p>The temperature of the climate may be easily guessed +from the situation of the island. Were we to judge of it +from our experience, it might be said to be very variable; +for, according to the generally received opinion, it was +now the season of the year, when the weather is supposed +to be most settled, the sun being at his greatest annual distance. +The heat was at this time very moderate; and few +of those inconveniences, which many tropical countries are +subject to, either from heat or moisture, seem to be experienced +here, as the habitations of the natives are quite +close; and they salt both fish and pork, which keep well, +contrary to what has usually been observed to be the case, +when this operation is attempted in hot countries. Neither +did we find any dews of consequence, which may, in +some measure, be accounted for, by the lower part of the +country being destitute of trees.</p> + +<p>The rock that forms the sides of the Valley, and which +seems to be the same with that seen by us at different parts +of the coast, is a greyish black, ponderous stone; but honey-combed, +with some very minute shining particles, and +some spots of a rusty colour interspersed. The last gives +it often a reddish cast, when at a distance. It is of an immense +depth, but seems divided into <i>strata</i>, though nothing +is interposed. For the large pieces always broke off to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page176" id="page176"></a>[pg 176]</span> +determinate thickness, without appearing to have adhered +to those below them. Other stones are probably much +more various, than in the southern islands. For, during +our short stay, besides the <i>lapis lydius</i>, which seems common +all over the South Sea, we found a species of cream-coloured +whetstone, sometimes variegated with blacker or +whiter veins, as marble; or in pieces, as <i>brecciæ</i>; and +common writing slate, as well as a coarser sort; but we +saw none of them in their natural state; and the natives +brought some pieces of a coarse whitish pumice-stone. +We got also a brown sort of <i>hæmatites</i>, which, from being +strongly attracted by the magnet, discovered the quantity +of metal that it contained, and seems to belong to the second +species of Cronstedt, though Linnæus has placed it +amongst his <i>intractabilia</i>. But its variety could not be discovered; +for what we saw of it, as well as the slates and +whetstones, was cut artificially.</p> + +<p>Besides the vegetable articles bought by us as refreshments, +amongst which were, at least, five or six varieties of +plantains, the island produces bread-fruit; though it seems +to be scarce, as we saw only one tree, which was large, and +had some fruit upon it. There are also a few cocoa-palms; +yams, as we were told, for we saw none; the <i>kappe</i> of the +Friendly Islands, or Virginian <i>arum</i>; the <i>etooa</i> tree, and +sweet-smelling <i>gardenia</i>, or <i>cape jasmine</i>. We saw several +trees of the <i>dooe dooe</i>, so useful at Otaheite, as bearing the +oily nuts, which are stuck upon a kind of skewer, and +burnt as candles. Our people saw them used, in the same +manner, at Oneeheow. We were not on shore at Atooi +but in the day-time, and then we saw the natives wearing +these nuts, hung on strings, round the neck. There is a +species of <i>sida</i>, or Indian mallow, somewhat altered, by the +climate, from what we saw at Christmas Island; the <i>morinda +citrifolia</i>, which is called <i>none</i>; a species of <i>convolvulus</i>; +the <i>ava</i>, or intoxicating pepper; and great numbers +of gourds. These last grow to a very large size, and are +of a vast variety of shapes, which probably is effected by +art. Upon the dry sand, about the village, grew a plant, +that we had never seen in these seas, of the size of a common +thistle, and prickly, like that; but bearing a fine flower, +almost resembling a white poppy. This, with another +small one, were the only uncommon plants, which our short +excursion gave us an opportunity of observing.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page177" id="page177"></a>[pg 177]</span> + +<p>The scarlet birds, already described, which were brought +for sale, were never met with alive; but we saw a single +small one, about the size of a canary-bird, of a deep crimson +colour; a large owl; two large brown hawks, or kites; +and a wild duck. The natives mentioned the names of several +other birds; amongst which we knew the <i>otoo</i>, or +blueish heron; and the <i>torata</i>, a sort of whimbrel, which +are known by the same names at Otaheite; and it is probable, +that there are a great many sorts, judging by the +quantity of fine yellow, green, and very small, velvet-like, +black feathers used upon the cloaks, and other ornaments +worn by the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Fish and other marine productions were, to appearance, +not various; as, besides the small mackarel, we only saw +common mullets; a sort of a dead white, or chalky colour; +a small brownish rock-fish, spotted with blue; a turtle, +which was penned up in a pond; and three or four sorts +of fish salted. The few shell-fish that we saw, were chiefly +converted into ornaments, though they neither had beauty +nor novelty to recommend them.</p> + +<p>The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or +domestic animals that we found here, were all of the same +kind that we met with at the South Pacific Islands. There +were also small lizards, and some rats, resembling those +seen at every island at which we had, as yet, touched.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, +with some exceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful +shape, nor for striking features, which rather express an +openness and good-nature, than a keen intelligent disposition. +Their visage, especially amongst the women, is sometimes +round; but others have it long; nor can we say that +they are distinguished as a nation, by any general cast of +countenance. Their colour is nearly of a nut-brown; and. +it may be difficult to make a nearer comparison, if we take +in all the different hues of that colour; but some individuals +are darker. The women have been already mentioned +as being little more delicate than the men in their formation; +and I may say, that, with a very few exceptions, they +have little claim to those peculiarities that distinguish the +sex in other countries. There is, indeed, a more remarkable +equality in the size, colour, and figure of both sexes, +than in most places I have visited. However, upon the +whole, they are far from being ugly, and appear to have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page178" id="page178"></a>[pg 178]</span> +few natural deformities of any kind. Their skin is not very +soft, nor shining; perhaps for want of oiling, which is practised +at the southern islands; but their eyes and teeth are, +in general, very tolerable. The hair, for the greatest part +is straight, though in some frizzling; and though its natural +colour be commonly black, it is stained, as at the +Friendly and other islands. We saw but few instances of +corpulence; and these oftener amongst the women than the +men; but it was chiefly amongst the latter that personal +defects were observed, though, if any of them can claim +a share of beauty, it was most conspicuous amongst the +young men.</p> + +<p>They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers; +leaving their canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving +under them, and swimming to others, though at a +great distance. It was very common to see women with +infants at the breast, when the surf was so high, that they +could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without +endangering their little ones, swim to the shore, through a +sea that looked dreadful.</p> + +<p>They seem to be blest with a frank cheerful disposition; +and were I to draw any comparisons, should say, that they +are equally free from the fickle levity which distinguishes +the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate east observable +amongst many of those of Tongataboo. They seem to live +very sociably in their intercourse with one another; and, +except the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in +most of the people we have visited in this ocean, they were +exceedingly friendly to us. And it does their sensibility +no little credit, without flattering ourselves, that when they +saw the various articles of our European manufacture, they +could not help expressing their surprise, by a mixture of +joy and concern, that seemed to apply the case as a lesson +of humility to themselves; and, on all occasions, they appeared +deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own +inferiority; a behaviour which equally exempts their national +character from the preposterous pride of the more +polished Japanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. It was +a pleasure to observe with how much affection the women +managed their infants, and how readily the men lent their +assistance to such a tender office; thus sufficiently distinguishing +themselves from those savages, who esteem a wife +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page179" id="page179"></a>[pg 179]</span> +and child as things rather necessary, than desirable or worthy +of their notice.</p> + +<p>From the numbers which we saw collected at every village, +as we sailed past, it may be supposed, that the inhabitants +of this island are pretty numerous. Any computation, +that we make, can be only conjectural. But, that +some notion may be formed, which shall not greatly err on +either side, I would suppose, that, including the straggling +houses, there might be, upon the whole island, sixty such, +villages, as that before which we anchored; and that, allowing +five persons to each house, there would be, in every +village, five hundred; or thirty thousand upon the island. +This number is certainly not exaggerated; for we had +sometimes three thousand persons at least upon the beach; +when it could not be supposed that above a tenth part of +the inhabitants were present.</p> + +<p>The common dress both of the women and of the men +has been already described. The first have often much +larger pieces of cloth wrapped round them, reaching from +just below the breasts to the hams or lower; and several +were seen with pieces thrown loosely about the shoulders, +which covered the greatest part of the body; but the children +when very young are quite naked. They wear nothing +upon the head; but the hair in both sexes is cut in +different forms; and the general fashion, especially among +the women, is to have it long before and short behind. +The men often had it cut or shaved on each side, in such a +manner, that the remaining part, in some measure, resembles +the crest of their caps or helmets formerly described. +Both sexes, however, seem very careless about their hair, +and have nothing like combs to dress it with. Instances +of wearing it in a singular manner were sometimes met +with among the men, who twist it into a number of separate +parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of +a finger; though the greatest part of these, which are so +long that they reach far down the back, we observed were +artificially fixed upon the head over their own hair.<a id="footnotetag36" name="footnotetag36"></a><a href="#footnote36"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>It is remarkable, that, contrary to the general practice of +the islands we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page180" id="page180"></a>[pg 180]</span> +the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated; +nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments +in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, adorn themselves with +necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, like our +hat-string, often above a hundred-fold; exactly like those +of Wateeoo; only that instead of the two little balls on the +middle before, they fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, +about two inches long, with a broad hook turning forward +at its lower part well polished. They have likewise necklaces +of many strings of very small shells, or of the dried +flowers of the Indian mallow. And sometimes a small human +image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, +is hung round the neck. The women also wear bracelets +of a single shell, pieces of black wood, with bits of +ivory interspersed and well polished, fixed by a string drawn +very closely through them; or others of hogs' teeth laid +parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and +the points cut off, fastened together as the former; some +of which made only of large boars' tusks are very elegant. +The men sometimes wear plumes of the tropic-bird's feathers +stuck in their heads; or those of cocks, fastened +round neat polished sticks two feet long, commonly decorated +at the lower part with <i>oora</i>; and for the same purpose, +the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick +with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the +head a kind of ornament of a finger's thickness or more, +covered with red and yellow feathers curiously varied and +tied behind; and on the arm, above the elbow, a kind of +broad shell-work, grounded upon net-work.</p> + +<p>The men are frequently punctured, though not in any +particular part, as the Otaheiteans and those of Tongataboo. +Sometimes there are a few marks upon their hands +or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we could observe +none at all; though a few individuals had more of +this sort of ornament, than we had usually seen at other +places, and ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines +and figures on the arms and fore-part of the body; on +which latter, some of them had the figure of the <i>taame</i>, or +breast-plate of Otaheite, though we did not meet with the +thing itself amongst them. Contrary to the custom of the +Society and Friendly Islands, they do not slit or cut off +part of the <i>prepuce</i>; but have it universally drawn over the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page181" id="page181"></a>[pg 181]</span> +<i>glans</i>, and tied with a string as practised by some of the +natives of New Zealand.</p> + +<p>Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living +in villages, there is no appearance of defence or fortification +near any of them; and the houses are scattered about +without any order, either with respect to their distances +from each other, or their position in any particular direction. +Neither is there any proportion as to their size; +some being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet +long, and twenty or thirty broad, while others of them are +mere hovels. Their figure is not unlike oblong corn or +hay-stacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may be conceived +of them, if we suppose the roof of a barn placed on the +ground, in such a manner as to form a high, acute ridge, +with two very low sides hardly discernible at a distance. +The gable at each end corresponding to the sides, makes +these habitations perfectly close all round; and they are +well thatched with long grass, which is laid on slender +poles disposed with some regularity. The entrance is +made indifferently in the end or side, and is an oblong +hole, so low, that one must rather creep than walk in; and +is often shut up by a board of planks fastened together, +which serves as a door, but having no hinges, must be removed +occasionally. No light enters the house but by this +opening; and though such close habitations may afford a +comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill +adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are, however, +kept remarkably clean; and their floors are covered with +a large quantity of dried grass, over which they spread +mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind of +bench about three feet high, on which their household +utensils are placed. The catalogue is not long. It consists +of gourd-shells, which they convert into vessels that +serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to contain +their victuals, and other things with covers of the same; +and of a few wooden bowls and trenchers of different sizes. +Judging from what we saw growing, and from what was +brought to market, there can be no doubt, that the greatest +part of their vegetable food consists of sweet potatoes, +<i>taro</i>, and plantains; and that bread-fruit and yams are rather +to be esteemed rarities. Of animal food they can be +in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run +without restraint about the houses; and if they eat dogs, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page182" id="page182"></a>[pg 182]</span> +which is not improbable, their stock of these seemed to be +very considerable. The great number of fishing-hooks +found amongst them, shewed that they derive no inconsiderable +supply of animal food from the sea. But it should +seem, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness +of their coast often interrupts the business of catching +them; as it may be naturally supposed, that no set of people +would ever think of preserving quantities of food artificially, +if they could depend upon a daily regular supply +of it in its fresh state. This sort of reasoning, however, +will not account for their custom of salting their pork, as +well as their fish, which are preserved in gourd-shells. The +salt, of which they use a great quantity for this purpose, is +of a red colour, not very coarse, and seems to be much the +same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island. +It has its colour doubtless from a mixture of the mud at +the bottom of the part where it is formed; for some of it +that had adhered in lumps, was of a sufficient whiteness +and purity.</p> + +<p>They bake their vegetable food with heated stones, as at +the southern islands; and from the vast quantity, which we +saw dressed at one time, we suspected that the whole village, +or, at least, a considerable number of people joined +in the use of a common oven. We did not see them dress +any animal food at this island; but Mr Gore's party, as already +mentioned, had an opportunity of satisfying themselves, +that it was dressed at Oneeheow in the same sort of +ovens, which leaves no doubt of this being also the practice +in Atooi; especially as we met with no utensil there +that could be applied to the purpose of stewing or boiling. +The only artificial dish we met with was a <i>taro</i> pudding, +which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was +greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of +wooden plates or trenchers; and the women, as far as we +could judge from one instance, if restrained from feeding +at the same dish with the men, as at Otaheite, are at least +permitted to eat in the same place near them.</p> + +<p>Their amusements seem pretty various; for during our +short stay, several were discovered. The dances at which +they used the feathered-cloaks and caps were not seen; +but from the motions which they made with their hands +on other occasions, when they sung, we could form some +judgment that they are, in some degree at least, similar to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page183" id="page183"></a>[pg 183]</span> +those we had met with at the southern islands, though not +executed so skilfully. Neither had they amongst them +either flutes or reeds, and the only two musical instruments +which we observed were of an exceedingly rude kind. +One of them does not produce a melody exceeding that of +a child's rattle. It consists of what may be called a conic +cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base above a +foot high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant, the upper +part of which, and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful +red feathers, and to the point, or lower part, is fixed a +gourd-shell larger than the fist. Into this is put something +to rattle, which is done by holding the instrument by the +small part, and shaking or rather moving it from place to +place briskly, either to different sides or backward and forward +just before the face, striking the breast with the other +hand at the same time. The other musical instrument (if +either of them deserve that name) was a hollow vessel of +wood, like a platter, combined with the use of two sticks, +on which one of our gentlemen saw a man performing. He +held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle +with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was +smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slower +measure; at the same time beating with his foot upon the +hollow vessel that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus +producing a tune that was by no means disagreeable. This +music was accompanied by the vocal performance of some +women, whose song had a pleasing and tender effect.</p> + +<p>We observed great numbers of small polished rods, +about four or five feet long, somewhat thicker than the +rammer of a musket, with a tuft of long white dog's hair +fixed on the small end. These are probably used in their +diversions. We saw a person take one of them in his hand, +and holding it up, give a smart stroke, till he brought it +into an horizontal position, striking with the foot on the +same side upon the ground, and with his other hand beating +his breast at the same time. They play at bowls with +pieces of whetstone mentioned before, of about a pound +weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded +at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polished; and +they have other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy +reddish, brown clay, neatly glazed over with a composition +of the same colour, or of a coarse dark-grey slate. They +also use, in the manner that we throw quoits, small flat +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page184" id="page184"></a>[pg 184]</span> +rounded pieces of the writing slate of the diameter of the +bowls, but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well polished. +From these circumstances, one would be induced +to think that their games are rather trials of skill than of +strength.</p> + +<p>In every thing manufactured by these people, there appears +to be an uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity. +Their cloth, which is the principal manufacture, is +made from the <i>morus papyrifera</i>; and doubtless in the same +manner as at Otaheite and Tongataboo; for we bought +some of the grooved sticks with which it is beaten. Its +texture, however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that +of the cloth of either of the other places; but in colouring +or staining it, the people of Atooi display a superiority of +taste, by the endless variation of figures which they execute. +One would suppose, on seeing a number of their +pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from some +mercer's shop, in which the most elegant productions of +China and Europe are collected; besides some original +patterns of their own. Their colours, indeed, except the +red, are not very bright; but the regularity of the figures +and stripes is truly surprising; for, as far as we know, they +have nothing like stamps or prints, to make the impressions. +In what manner they produce their colours, we had +not opportunities of learning; but, besides the party coloured +sorts, they have some pieces of plain white cloth, +and others of a single colour, particularly dark-brown and +light-blue. In general, the pieces which they brought to +us were about two feet broad, and four or five yards long, +being the form and quantity that they use for their common +dress or <i>maro</i>; and even these we sometimes found +were composed of pieces sewed together; an art which we +did not find to the southward, but is strongly, though not +very neatly, performed here. There is also a particular +sort that is thin, much resembling oil-cloth; and which is +actually either oiled or soaked in some kind of varnish, and +seems to resist the action of water pretty well.</p> + +<p>They fabricate a great many white mats, which are strong, +with many red stripes, rhombuses, and other figures, interwoven +on one side; and often pretty large. These probably +make a part of their dress occasionally; for they +put them on their backs when they offered them to sale. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page185" id="page185"></a>[pg 185]</span> +But they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they +spread over their floors to sleep upon.</p> + +<p>They stain their gourd-shells prettily with undulated lines, +triangles, and other figures of a black colour; instances of +which we saw practised at New Zealand. And they seem +to possess the art of varnishing; for some of these stained +gourd-shells are covered with a kind of lacker; and, on +other occasions, they use a strong size, or gluey substance, +to fasten their things together. Their wooden dishes and, +bowls, out of which they drink their <i>ova</i>, are of the <i>etooa</i>-tree, +or <i>cordia</i>, as neat as if made in our turning-lathe, and +perhaps better polished. And amongst their articles of +handicraft, may be reckoned small square fans of mat or +wicker-work, with handles tapering from them of the same, +or of wood; which are neatly wrought with small cords of +hair, and fibres of the cocoa-nut coir intermixed. The +great variety of fishing-hooks are ingeniously made; some +of bone, others of wood pointed with bone, and many of +pearl shell. Of the last, some are like a sort that we saw +at Tongataboo; and others simply curved, as the common +sort at Otaheite, as well as the wooden ones. The bones +are mostly small, and composed of two pieces; and all the +different sorts have a barb, either on the inside, like ours, +or on the outside, opposite the same part; but others have +both, the outer one being farthest from the point. Of this +last sort, one was procured nine inches long, of a single +piece of bone, which doubtless belonged to some large +fish. The elegant form and polish of this could not certainly +be outdone by any European artist, even if he should add +all his knowledge in design to the number and convenience +of his tools. They polish their stones by constant +friction, with pumice-stone in water; and such of their +working instruments, or tools, as I saw, resembled those of +the Southern Islands. Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were +exactly of the same pattern, and either made of the same +sort of blackish stone, or of a clay-coloured one. They +have also little instruments, made of a single shark's tooth, +some of which are fixed to the fore-part of a dog's jawbone, +and others to a thin wooden handle of the same +shape; and at the other end there is a bit of string fastened +through a small perforation. These serve as knives occasionally, +and are perhaps used in carving.</p> + +<p>The only iron tools, or rather bits of iron, seen amongst +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page186" id="page186"></a>[pg 186]</span> +them, and which they had before our arrival, were a piece +of iron hoop, about two inches long, fitted into a wooden +handle;<a id="footnotetag37" name="footnotetag37"></a><a href="#footnote37"><sup>2</sup></a> and another edge-tool, which our people guessed +to be made of the point of a broad-sword. Their having +the actual possession of these, and their so generally knowing +the use of this metal, inclined some on board to think +that we had not been the first European visitors of these +islands. But it seems to me, that the very great surprise +expressed by them on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance +of the use of fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with +such a notion. There are many ways by which such people +may get pieces of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the +existence of such a metal, without having ever had an immediate +connection with nations that use it. It can hardly +be doubted, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of +this sea, before Magalhaens led the way into it; for no +discoverer, immediately after his voyage, ever found any +of this metal in their possession; though, in the course of +our late voyages, it has been observed, that the use of it +was known at several islands, to which no former European +ships had ever, as far as we know, found their way. +At all the places where Mendana touched in his two voyages, +it must have been seen and left; and this would extend +the knowledge of it, no doubt, to all the various +islands with which those whom he had visited had any immediate +intercourse. It might even be carried farther; +and where specimens of this favourite article could not be +procured, descriptions might, in some measure, serve to +make it known when afterward seen. The next voyage to +the southward of the Line, in which any intercourse was +had with the natives of this ocean, was that of Quiros, +who landed at Sagittaria, the Island of Handsome People, +and at Tierra del Espiritu Santo; at all which places, and +at those with whom they had any communication, it must +of consequence have been made known. To him succeeded, +in this navigation, Le Maire and Schouten, whose connections +with the natives commenced much farther to the +eastward, and ended at Cocos and Horn Islands. It was +not surprising, that when I visited Tongataboo, in 1773, I +should find a bit of iron there, as we knew that Tasman +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page187" id="page187"></a>[pg 187]</span> +had visited it before me; but let us suppose, that he had +never discovered the Friendly Islands, our finding iron, +amongst them would have occasioned much speculation; +though we have mentioned before the method by which +they had gained a renewal of their knowledge of this metal, +which confirms my hypothesis. For Neeootaboo taboo, +or Boscawen's Island, where Captain Wallis's ships left it, +and from whence Poulaho received it, lies some degrees to +the north-west of Tongataboo. It is well known, that +Roggewein lost one of his ships on the Pernicious Islands; +which, from their situation, are probably not unknown to, +though not frequently visited by, the inhabitants of Otaheite +and the Society Islands. It is equally certain, that +these last people had a knowledge of iron, and purchased +it with the greatest avidity, when Captain Wallis discovered +Otaheite; and this knowledge could only have been +acquired through the medium of those neighbouring islands +where it had been originally left. Indeed, they acknowledge +that this was actually the case; and they have told +us since, that they held it in such estimation before Captain +Wallis's arrival, that a chief of Otaheite, who had got +two nails into his possession, received no small emolument, +by letting out the use of these to his neighbours for the +purpose of boring holes, when their own methods failed, or +were thought too tedious.<a id="footnotetag38" name="footnotetag38"></a><a href="#footnote38"><sup>3</sup></a> The men of the Society Islands +whom we found at Wateeoo, had been driven thither, +long after the knowledge and use of iron had thus been +introduced amongst their countrymen; and though probably +they had no specimen of it with them, they would +naturally, and with ease, communicate at that island their +knowledge of this valuable material by description. From +the people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey's Island +might derive that desire to possess some of it, of which we +had proofs during our short intercourse with them.</p> + +<p>The consideration of these facts sufficiently explains, +how the knowledge of iron has been conveyed throughout +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page188" id="page188"></a>[pg 188]</span> +this ocean to islands which never have had an immediate +intercourse with Europeans; and it may easily be conceived, +that wherever the history of it only has been reported, +or a very small quantity of it has been left, the greater +eagerness will be shewn by the natives to get copious supplies +of it. The application of these particulars to the instance +now under consideration, is obvious. The people of +Atooi and Oneeheow, without having ever been visited by +Europeans before us, might have received it from intermediate +islands lying between them and the Ladrones, +which have been frequented by the Spaniards almost ever +since the date of Magalhaens's voyage. Or if the distant +western situation of the Ladrones should render this solution +less probable, is there not the extensive continent of +America to windward, where the Spaniards have been settled +for more than two hundred years; during which long +period of time, shipwrecks must have frequently happened +on its coasts? It cannot be thought at all extraordinary, +that part of such wrecks containing iron, should, by the +easterly trade wind, be, from time to time, cast upon islands +scattered about this vast ocean. The distance of Atooi +from America is no argument against this supposition. +But even if it were, it would not destroy it. This ocean is +traversed every year by Spanish ships; and it is obvious, +that, besides the accident of losing a mast and its appendages, +casks with iron hoops, and many other things containing +iron, may be thrown or may fall overboard during +so long a passage, and thus find their way to land. But +these are not mere conjectures and possibilities; for one +of my people actually did see some wood in one of the +houses at Wymoa, which he judged to be fir. It was worm-eaten, +and the natives gave him to understand, that it had +been driven ashore by the waves of the sea; and we had +their own express testimony, that they had got the inconsiderable +specimens of iron, found amongst them, from +some place to the eastward.</p> + +<p>From this digression (if it can be called so) I return to +the observations made during our stay at Atooi; and some +account must now be given of their canoes. These, in general, +are about twenty-four feet long, and have the bottom, +for the most part, formed of a single piece or log of +wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch, or an inch +and a half, and brought to a point at each end. The sides +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page189" id="page189"></a>[pg 189]</span> +consist of three boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly +fitted and lashed to the bottom part. The extremities, +both at head and stern, are a little raised, and both are +made sharp, somewhat like a wedge; but they flatten more +abruptly; so that the two sideboards join each other side +by side, for more than a foot. As they are not more than +fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go single (for +they sometimes join them as at the other islands) have +outriggers, which are shaped and fitted with more judgment +than any I had before seen. They are rowed by paddles, +such as we had generally met with; and some of them +have a light triangular sail, like those of the Friendly +Islands, extending to a mast and boom. The ropes used for +their boats, and the smaller cords for their fishing-tackle, +are strong and well made.</p> + +<p>What we saw of their agriculture, furnished sufficient +proofs that they are not novices in that art. The vale +ground has already been mentioned as one continued plantation +of <i>taro</i>, and a few other things, which have all the +appearance of being well attended to. The potatoe fields, +and spots of sugar-cane, or plantains on the higher grounds, +are planted with the same regularity; and always in some +determinate figure, generally as a square or oblong; but +neither these, nor the others, are enclosed with any kind of +fence, unless we reckon the ditches in the low grounds +such, which, it is more probable, are intended to convey +water to the <i>taro</i>. The great quantity and goodness of +these articles may also, perhaps, be as much attributed to +skilful culture as to natural fertility of soil, which seems +better adapted to them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut +trees; the few which we saw of these latter not being in +a thriving state, which will sufficiently account for the preference +given to the culture of the other articles, though +more labour be required to produce them. But, notwithstanding +this skill in agriculture, the general appearance of +the island shewed, that it was capable of much more extensive +improvement, and of maintaining, at least, three +times the number of the inhabitants that are at present +upon it; for the far greater part of it, that now lies quite +waste, seemed to be as good a soil as those parts of it that +are in cultivation. We must therefore conclude, that these +people, from some cause, which we were not long enough +amongst them to be able to trace, do not increase in that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page190" id="page190"></a>[pg 190]</span> +proportion, which would make it necessary to avail themselves +of the extent of their island, toward raising a greater +quantity of its vegetable productions for their subsistence.</p> + +<p>Though I did not see a chief of any note, there were +however several, as the natives informed us, who reside +upon Atooi, and to whom they prostrate themselves as a +mark of submission; which seems equivalent to the <i>moe</i>, +<i>moea</i>, paid to the chiefs of the Friendly Islands, and is +called here <i>hamoea</i>, or <i>moe</i>. Whether they were at first +afraid to shew themselves, or happened to be absent, I +cannot say; but, after I had left the island, one of these +great men made his appearance, and paid a visit to Captain +Clerke, on board the Discovery. He came off in a +double canoe; and, like the king of the Friendly Islands, +paid no regard to the small canoes that happened to lie in +his way, but ran against, or over them, without endeavouring +in the least to avoid them. And it was not possible for +these poor people to avoid him, for they could not manage +their canoes; it being a necessary mark of their submission +that they should lie down till he had passed. His +attendants helped him into the ship, and placed him on +the gangway. Their care of him did not cease then; for +they stood round him, holding each other by the hands; +nor would they suffer any one to come near him but Captain +Clerke himself. He was a young man, clothed from +head to foot, and accompanied by a young woman, supposed +to be his wife. His name was said to be Tamahano. +Captain Clerke made him some suitable presents; and received +from him, in return, a large bowl, supported by two +figures of men, the carving of which, both as to the design +and execution, shewed some degree of skill. This bowl, as +our people were told, used to be filled with the <i>kava</i> or <i>ava</i>, +(as it is called at Otaheite), which liquor they prepare and +drink here as at the other islands in this ocean. Captain +Clerke could not prevail upon this great man to go below, +nor to move from the place where his attendants had first +fixed him. After staying some time in the ship, he was +carried again into his canoe, and returned to the island, +receiving the same honours from all the natives as when +he came on board. The next day several messages were +sent to Captain Clerke, inviting him to return the visit +ashore, and acquainting him that the chief had prepared a +large present on that occasion. But, being anxious to get +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page191" id="page191"></a>[pg 191]</span> +to sea, and join the Resolution, the Captain did not think +it advisable to accept of the invitation.</p> + +<p>The very short and imperfect intercourse which we had +with the natives, put it out of our power to form any accurate +judgment of the mode of government established +amongst them; but, from the general resemblance of customs, +and particularly from what we observed of the honours +paid to their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe, +that it is of the same nature with that which prevails +throughout all the islands we had hitherto visited; and +probably their wars amongst themselves are equally frequent. +This, indeed, might be inferred from the number +of weapons which we found them possessed of, and from, +the excellent order these were kept in. But we had direct +proof of the fact from their own confession; and, as we +understood, these wars are between the different districts +of their own island, as well as between it and their neighbours +of Oneeheow and Orrehoua, we need scarcely assign +any other cause besides this to account for the appearance +already mentioned, of their population bearing +no proportion to the extent of their ground capable of cultivation.</p> + +<p>Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chesnut-coloured +wood, beautifully polished, some of which are barbed +at one end, and flattened to a point at the other, they +have a sort of weapon which we had never seen before, +and not mentioned by any navigator, as used by the natives +of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in +general about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or +both ends, and secured to the hand by a string. Its use is +to stab in close fight; and it seems well adapted to the +purpose. Some of these may be called double daggers, having +a handle in the middle, with which they are better +enabled to strike different ways. They have also bows and +arrows; but, both from their apparent scarcity and their +slender make, it may almost be presumed that they never +use them in battle. The knife or saw, formerly mentioned, +with which they dissect the dead bodies, may also be ranked +amongst their weapons, as they both strike and cut with +it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden instrument, +of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at +the corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the <i>patoos</i> +of New Zealand; but its edges are entirely +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page192" id="page192"></a>[pg 192]</span> +surrounded with sharks' teeth, strongly fixed to it, and pointing +outward; having commonly a hole in the handle, through +which passes a long string, which is wrapped several times +round the wrist. We also suspected that they use slings on +some occasions; for we got some pieces of the <i>hæmatites</i>, +or blood-stone, artificially made of an oval shape, divided +longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the +convex part. To this the person, who had one of them, applied +a cord of no great thickness, but would not part with +it, though he had no objection to part with the stone, +which must prove fatal, when thrown with any force, as it +weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of +whetstone, well polished, but somewhat pointed toward +each end, nearly resembling in shape some stones which +we had seen at New Caledonia in 1774, and used there in +their slings.</p> + +<p>What we could learn of their religions institutions, and +the manner of disposing of their dead, which may properly +be considered as closely connected, has been already +mentioned. And as nothing more strongly points out the +affinity between the manners of these people and of the +Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some +other circumstances to place this in a strong point of view, +and at the same time to shew how a few of the infinite +modifications, of which a few leading principles are capable, +may distinguish any particular nation. The people +of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent manner, +and they also inter their human sacrifices; but they do +not offer, or expose any other animal, or even vegetable, +to their gods, as far as we know. Those of Otaheite do not +inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time and +putrefaction, though the bones are afterward buried; and +as this is the case, it is very remarkable that they should +inter the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also +offer other animals and vegetables to their gods; but +are by no means attentive to the state of the sacred places +where those solemn rites are performed; most of their <i>morais</i> +being in a ruinous condition, and bearing evident marks +of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their +common dead and human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo; +but they resemble those of Otaheite in the slovenly state +of their religious places, and in offering vegetables and animals +to their gods.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page193" id="page193"></a>[pg 193]</span> + +<p>The <i>taboo</i> also prevails in Atooi in its full extent, and +seemingly with much more rigour than even at Tongataboo. +For the people here always asked, with great eagerness +and signs of fear to offend, whether any particular +thing, which they desired to see, or we were unwilling to +shew, was <i>taboo</i>, or, as they pronounced the word, <i>tafoo</i>? +The <i>maia</i>, <i>ruä</i>, or forbidden articles at the Society Islands, +though doubtless the same thing, did not seem to be so +strictly observed by them, except with respect to the dead, +about whom we thought them more superstitious than any +of the others were. But these are circumstances with which +we are not as yet sufficiently acquainted to be decisive +about; and I shall only just observe, to shew the similitude +in other matters connected with religion, that the +priests, or <i>tahounas</i>, here, are as numerous as at the other +islands; if we may judge, from our being able, during our +short stay, to distinguish several saying their <i>poore</i> or prayer.</p> + +<p>But whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general +manners of the people of Atooi to those of Otaheite, +these, of course, were less striking than the coincidence of +language, indeed, the languages of both places may be +said to be almost, word for word, the same. It is true, that +we sometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced +exactly as we had found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands; +but, though all the four dialects are indisputably +the same, these people, in general, have neither the strong +guttural pronunciation of the former, nor a less degree of +it, which also distinguishes the latter; and they have not +only adopted the soft mode of the Otaheitans, in avoiding +harsh sounds, but the whole idiom of their language; using +not only the same affixes and suffixes to their words, but +the same measure and cadence in their songs; though, in +a manner, somewhat less agreeable. There seems, indeed, +at first hearing, some disagreement to the ear of a stranger; +but it ought to be considered, that the people of Otaheite, +from their frequent connections with the English, +had learnt it, in some measure, to adapt themselves to our +scanty knowledge of their language, by using not only the +most common, but even corrupted expressions, in conversation +with us; whereas, when they conversed among themselves, +and used the several parts necessary to propriety +of speech, they were scarcely at all understood by those +amongst us, who had made the greatest proficiency in their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page194" id="page194"></a>[pg 194]</span> +vocabulary. A catalogue of words was collected at Atooi +by Mr Anderson, who lost no opportunity of making our +voyage useful to those who amuse themselves in tracing +the migrations of the various tribes or families that have +peopled the globe, by the most convincing of all arguments, +that drawn from affinity of language.</p> + +<p>How shall we account for this nation's having spread itself, +in so many detached islands, so widely disjoined from +each other, in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean! We find +it, from New Zealand, in the south, as far as the Sandwich +Islands to the north! And, in another direction, from Easter +Island to the Hebrides! that is, over an extent of sixty +degrees of latitude, or twelve hundred leagues, north and +south! and eighty-three degrees of longitude, or sixteen +hundred and sixty leagues east and west! How much farther, +in either direction, its colonies reach is not known; +but what we know already, in consequence of this and our +former voyage, warrants us in pronouncing it to be, though +perhaps not the most numerous, certainly, by far, the most +extensive nation upon the earth.<a id="footnotetag39" name="footnotetag39"></a><a href="#footnote39"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at an early +period by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that they +would have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and +have made use of Atooi, or some other of the islands, as a +refreshing place to the ships that sail annually from Acapulco +for Manilla. They lie almost midway between the +first place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at +present their only port in traversing this vast ocean; and +it would not have been a week's sail out of their common +route to have touched at them; which could have been +done without running the least hazard of losing the passage, +as they are sufficiently within the verge of the easterly +trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands +would have been equally favourable to our Buccaneers, +who used sometimes to pass from the coast of America to +the Ladrones, with a stock of food and water scarcely sufficient +to preserve life. Here they might always have found +plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the +very part of California, which the Manilla ship is obliged +to make, or else have returned to the coast of America, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page195" id="page195"></a>[pg 195]</span> +thoroughly refitted, after an absence of two months. How +happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships +would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a +group of islands half way between America and Tinian, +where all his wants could have been effectually supplied; +and in describing which, the elegant historian of that voyage +would have presented his reader with a more agreeable +picture than I have been able to draw in this chapter!<a id="footnotetag40" name="footnotetag40"></a><a href="#footnote40"><sup>5</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote36" name="footnote36"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag36"> (return) </a><p>The print of Horn Island, which we meet with in Mr Dalrymple's +account +of Le Maire and Schouten's voyage, represents some of the natives +of that island with such long tails hanging from their heads as are here +described. See Dalrymple's Voyages to the South Pacific, vol. ii. p. 58.—D</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote37" name="footnote37"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag37"> (return) </a><p>Captain King, we are told, purchased this, and had it in his +possession +at the time of publishing this account.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote38" name="footnote38"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag38"> (return) </a><p>A similar instance of profitable revenue, drawn from the use of +nails +by the chiefs of the Caroline Islands, is mentioned by Father Cantova: +"Si, par hazard, un vaisseau étranger laisse dans leurs Isles quelques +vieux morceaux de fer, ils appartiennent de droit aux Tamoles, qui en +font faire des outils, le mieux qu'il est possible. Ces outils sent un fond +le Tamole tire un revenu considerable, car il les donne à louage, et ce +louage se paye assez chere."—P. 314.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote39" name="footnote39"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag39"> (return) </a><p>See more about the great extent of the colonies of this nation in +the +Introductory Preface.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote40" name="footnote40"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag40"> (return) </a><p>We defer considering the curious subject of the identity and origin +of the people that inhabit the South Sea, till other relations shall have +put the reader in possession of the facts requisite for the discussion. Of +the Sandwich Islands, we shall hereafter probably have mere complete +information than is now given.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION XIII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the Longitude, +Variation of the Compass and Tides.—Prosecution of the +Voyage.—Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far +as the Latitude 44° North.—Paucity of Sea Birds, in the +Northern Hemisphere.—Small Sea Animals described.—Arrival +on the Coast of America.—Appearance of the Country.—Unfavourable +Winds and boisterous Weather.—Remarks +on Martin de Aguilar's River, and Juan de Fuca's +pretended Strait.—An Inlet discovered, where the Ships anchor.—Behaviour +of the Natives.</i></blockquote> + +<p>After the Discovery had joined us, we stood away to +the northward, close hauled, with a gentle gale from the +east; and nothing occurring, in this situation, worthy of a +place in my narrative, the reader will permit me to insert +here the nautical observations which I had opportunities +of making relative to the islands we had left; and which +we had been fortunate enough to add to the geography of +this part of the Pacific Ocean.</p> + +<p>The longitude of the Sandwich Islands was determined +by seventy-two sets of lunar observations; some of which +were made while we were at anchor in the road of Wymoa; +others before we arrived, and after we left it, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page196" id="page196"></a>[pg 196]</span> +reduced to it by the watch or time-keeper. By the mean +result of these observations, the longitude of the road is</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">200° 13' 0" East.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Time-keeper</td><td align="left">Greenwich rate,</td><td align="left">200° 0' 0"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ulietea rate,</td><td align="left">200° 21' 0"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The latitude of the road, by the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> mean of two meridian observations</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">21° 56' 15" North.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> of the sun</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The observations for the variation of the compass did +not agree very well among themselves. It is true, they were +not all made exactly in the same spot. The different situations, +however, could make very little difference. But +the whole will be seen, by casting an eye on the following +table.</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="center">Time.</td><td align="center">Latitude.</td><td align="center">Longitude.</td><td align="center">Compass.</td><td align="center">East</td><td align="center">Mean</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">variation.</td><td align="center">Variation.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">Jan. 18th. A.M.</td><td align="left">21° 12'</td><td align="left">200° 41'</td><td align="center">Gregory's </td><td align="left">10° 10' 10"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Knight's</td><td align="left">9° 20' 5"</td><td align="right">90° 51' 38"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Martin's</td><td align="left"> 10° 4' 40"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">19th. P.M.</td><td align="left">21° 51'</td><td align="left">200° 20'</td><td align="center">Knight's</td><td align="left">10° 2' 10"</td><td align="right">10° 37' 10"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Gregory's</td><td align="left">11° 12' 30"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28th. A.M.</td><td align="left">21° 22'</td><td align="left">199° 56'</td><td align="center">Gregory's</td><td align="left">9° 1' 20"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Knight's</td><td align="left">9° 1' 25"</td><td align="right">9° 26' 57"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Martin's</td><td align="left">10° 18' 5"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">28th. P.M.</td><td align="left">21° 36'</td><td align="left">199° 50'</td><td align="right">Gregory's</td><td align="left">11° 21' 15"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Knight's</td><td align="left">10° 40' 0"</td><td align="right">11° 12' 50"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Martin's</td><td align="left">11° 37' 50"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Means of the</td><td align="left">21° 29'</td><td align="left">200° 12'</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">10° 17' 11"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> above</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>On January 18. 21° 12' 200° 41' the north end of the needle dipped 42° 1' 7".</p> + +<p>The tides at the Sandwich Islands are so inconsiderable, +that, with the great surf which broke against the shore, it +was hardly possible to tell, at any time, whether we had +high or low water, or whether it ebbed or flowed. On the +south side of Atooi, we generally found a current setting to +the westward, or north-westward. But when we were at +anchor off Oneeheow, the current set nearly north-west +and south-east, six hours one way and six the other, and +so strong as to make the ships tend, though the wind blew +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page197" id="page197"></a>[pg 197]</span> +fresh. This was certainly a regular tide; and, as far as I +could judge, the flood came from the north-west.</p> + +<p>I now return to the progress of our voyage. On the 7th, +being in the latitude of 29° N. and in the longitude of 200° +E. the wind veered to S.E. This enabled us to steer N.E. +and E.; which course we continued, till the 12th, when +the wind had veered round by the S. and W. to N.E. and +E.N.E. I then tacked and stood to the northward, our latitude +being 30° N. and our longitude 206° 15' E. Notwithstanding +our advanced latitude, and its being the winter +season, we had only begun, for a few days past, to feel +a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings. This is +a sign of the equal and lasting influence of the sun's heat, +at all seasons, to 30° on each side the line. The disproportion +is known to become very great after that. This must +be attributed almost entirely to the direction of the rays of +the sun, independent of the bare distance, which is by no +means equal to the effect.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, being now in the latitude of 37° N. and in +the longitude of 206° E. the wind veered to S.E.; and I +was enabled again to steer to the E. inclining to the N. +We had, on the 25th, reached the latitude of 42° 30', and +the longitude of 219°; and then we began to meet with +the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson's +voyage, under the name of sea-leek, which the Manilla +ships generally fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood +also appeared. But if we had not known that the continent +of North America was not far distant, we might, from +the few signs of the vicinity of land hitherto met with, +have concluded, that there was none within some thousand +leagues of us. We had hardly seen a bird, or any other +oceanic animal, since we left Sandwich Islands.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of March, our latitude being now 44° 49' N., +and our longitude 228° E. we had one calm day. This +was succeeded by a wind from the N. with which I stood +to the E. close hauled, in order to make the land. According +to the charts, it ought not to have been far from us. +It was remarkable, that we should still carry with us such +moderate and mild weather so far to the northward, and so +near the coast of an extensive continent, at this time of +the year. The present season either must be uncommon +for its mildness, or we can assign no reason why Sir Francis +Drake should have met with such severe cold, about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page198" id="page198"></a>[pg 198]</span> +this latitude, in the month of June. Viscaino, indeed, who +was near the same place in the depth of winter, says little +of the cold, and speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains +somewhere on the coast, as a thing rather remarkable.<a id="footnotetag41" name="footnotetag41"></a><a href="#footnote41"><sup>1</sup></a> +Our seeing so few birds, in comparison of what we met +with in the same latitudes to the south of the Line, is another +singular circumstance, which must either proceed +from a scarcity of the different sorts, or from a deficiency +of places to rest upon. From hence, we may conclude, that, +beyond 40° in the southern hemisphere, the species are +much more numerous, and the isles where they inhabit also +more plentifully scattered about, than any where between +the coast of California and Japan, in or near that +latitude.</p> + +<p>During a calm, on the morning of the 2d, some parts of +the sea seemed covered with a kind of slime, and some +small sea-animals were swimming about. The most conspicuous +of which were of the gelatinous or <i>medusa</i> kind, almost +globular; and another sort smaller, that had a white +or shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of +these last were taken up, and put into a glass cup with +some salt water, in which they appeared like small scales +or bits of silver, when at rest, in a prone situation. When +they began to swim about, which they did, with equal ease, +upon their backs, sides, or belly, they emitted the brightest +colours of the most precious gems, according to their position +with respect to the light. Sometimes they appeared +quite pellucid, at other times assuming various tints of +blue, from a pale sapphirine to a deep violet colour; which +were frequently mixed with a ruby or opaline redness; and +glowed with a strength sufficient to illuminate the vessel +and water. These colours appeared most vivid when the +glass was held to a strong light; and mostly vanished on +the subsiding of the animals to the bottom, when they had +a brownish cast. But, with candle light, the colour was, +chiefly, a beautiful pale green, tinged with a burnished +gloss; and, in the dark, it had a faint appearance of glowing +fire. They proved to be a new species of <i>oniscus</i>, and, +from their properties, were, by Mr Anderson, (to whom we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page199" id="page199"></a>[pg 199]</span> +owe this account of them), called <i>oniscus fulgens</i>; being +probably an animal which has a share in producing some +sorts of that lucid appearance, often observed near ships +at sea in the night. On the same day two large birds settled +on the water, near the ship. One of these was the +<i>procellaria maxima</i> (the <i>quebrantahuessos</i>), and the other, +which was little more than half the size, seemed to be of +the <i>albatross</i> kind. The upper part of the wings, and tip of +the tail, were black, with the rest white; the bill yellowish; +upon the whole not unlike the sea-gull, though larger.</p> + +<p>On the 6th at noon, being in the latitude of 44° 10' N., +and the longitude of 234-1/2° E., we saw two seals and several +whales; and at day-break the next morning, the long-looked-for +coast of New Albion<a id="footnotetag42" name="footnotetag42"></a><a href="#footnote42"><sup>2</sup></a> was seen, extending from +N.E. to S.E., distant ten or twelve leagues. At noon our +latitude was 44° 33' N., and our longitude 235° 20' E.; +and the land extended from N.E. 1/2 N. to S.E. by S. about +eight leagues distant. In this situation we had seventy-three +fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, and about a +league farther off found ninety fathoms. The land appeared +to be of a moderate height, diversified with hills and +valleys, and almost every where covered with wood. There +was, however, no very striking object on any part of it, except +one hill, whose elevated summit was flat. This bore +E. from us at noon. At the northern extreme the land +formed a point, which I called <i>Cape Foulweather</i>, from the +very bad weather that we soon after met with. I judge it +to lie in the latitude of 44° 55' N., and in the longitude of +235° 54' E.</p> + +<p>We had variable light airs and calms till eight o'clock +in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at S.W. With it +I stood to the N.W., under an easy sail, waiting for day-light, +to range along the coast. But at four, next morning, +the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in squalls, with rain. +Our course was N.E. till near ten o'clock, when, finding +that I could make no progress on this tack, and seeing nothing +like a harbour, I tacked, and stood off S.W. At +this time Cape Foulweather bore N.E. by N. about eight +leagues distant. Toward noon the wind veered more to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page200" id="page200"></a>[pg 200]</span> +westward, and the weather became fair and clear; so that +we were enabled to make lunar observations. Having reduced +all those that we had made since the 19th of last +month to the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting +in the whole to seventy-two sets, their mean result determined +the longitude to be 235° 15' 26" E., which was 14' +11" less than what the time-keeper gave. This longitude +is made use of for settling that of the coast; and I have +not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the +truth.</p> + +<p>Our difficulties now began to increase. In the evening +the wind came to the N.W., blowing in squalls, with hail +and sleet; and the weather being thick and hazy, I stood +out to sea till near noon the next day, when I tacked, and +stood in again for the land, which made its appearance at +two in the afternoon, bearing E.N.E. The wind and weather +continued the same; but, in the evening, the former +veered more to the W. and the latter grew worse, which +made it necessary to tack and stand off till four the next +morning, when I ventured to stand in again.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we saw the island, which, at six, +extended from N.E. 1/2 E. to S.E. by S. about eight leagues +distant. In this situation we tacked, and sounded; but a +line of a hundred and sixty fathoms did not reach the +ground. I stood off till midnight, then stood in again; and +at half-past six we were within three leagues of the land, +which extended from N. by E. 1/2 E. to S. 1/2 E.; each extreme +about seven leagues distant. Seeing no signs of a +harbour, and the weather being still unsettled, I tacked, +and stretched off S.W. having then fifty-five fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom.</p> + +<p>That part of the land which we were so near when we +tacked, is of a moderate height, though in some places it +rises higher within. It was diversified with a great many +rising grounds and small hills; many of which were entirely +covered with tall, straight trees; and others, which were +lower, and grew in spots like coppices; but the interspaces, +and sides of many of the rising grounds, were clear. +The whole, though it might make an agreeable summer +prospect, had now an uncomfortable appearance; as the +bare grounds towards the coast were all covered with snow, +which seemed to be of a considerable depth between the +little hills and rising grounds; and in several places, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page201" id="page201"></a>[pg 201]</span> +toward the sea, might easily have been mistaken, at a distance, +for white cliffs. The snow on the rising grounds was +thinner spread; and farther inland, there was no appearance +of any; from whence we might, perhaps, conclude, +that what we saw toward the sea, had fallen during the +night; which was colder than any we had experienced +since our arrival on the coast; and we had sometimes a +kind of sleet. The coast seemed every where almost straight, +without any opening or inlet; and it appeared to terminate +in a kind of white sandy beach; though some on +board thought that appearance was owing to the snow. +Each extreme of the land that was now before us, seemed +to shoot out into a point. The northern one was the same +which we had first seen on the 7th; and on that account I +called it <i>Cape Perpetua</i>. It lies in the latitude of 44° 6' N., +and in the longitude of 235° 57'E. The southern extreme +before us, I named <i>Cape Gregory</i>.<a id="footnotetag43" name="footnotetag43"></a><a href="#footnote43"><sup>3</sup></a> Its latitude is 43° 30', +and its longitude 235° 57' E. It is a remarkable point; the +land of it rising almost directly from the sea to a tolerable +height, while that on each side of it is low.</p> + +<p>I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then +I tacked, and stood in, hoping to have the wind off from +the land in the night. But in this I was mistaken; for at +five o'clock it began to run to the west and south-west, which, +obliged me once more to stand out to sea. At this time, +Cape Perpetua bore N.E. by N.; and the farthest land we +could see to the south of Cape Gregory bore S. by E., perhaps +ten or twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this +estimation, its latitude will be 43° 10', and its longitude +235° 55' E., which is nearly the situation of Cape Blanco, +discovered or seen by Martin d'Aguilar, on the 19th of +January, 1603. It is worth observing, that in the very latitude +where we now were, geographers have been pleased +to place a large entrance or strait, the discovery of which +they take upon them to ascribe to the same navigator; +whereas nothing more is mentioned in the account of his +voyage, than his having seen, in this situation, a large river, +which he would have entered, but was prevented by +the currents.<a id="footnotetag44" name="footnotetag44"></a><a href="#footnote44"><sup>4</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page202" id="page202"></a>[pg 202]</span> + +<p>The wind, as I have observed, had veered to S.W. in +the evening; but it was very unsettled, and blew in squalls, +with snow showers. In one of these, at midnight, it shifted +at once to W.N.W. and soon increased to a very hard +gale, with heavy squalls, attended with sleet or snow. +There was no choice now; and we were obliged to stretch +to the southward, in order to get clear of the coast. This +was done under courses and two close-reefed top-sails; being +rather more sail than the ships could safely bear; but +it was necessary to carry it to avoid the more pressing danger +of being forced on shore. This gale continued till +eight o'clock in the morning of the 18th; when it abated, +and I stood in again for the land. We had been forced a +considerable way backward; for at the time of our tacking, +we were in the latitude of 42° 45', and in the longitude of 233° 30'.</p> + +<p>The wind continued at W. and N.W.; storms, moderate +weather, and calms, succeeding each other by turns, till the +morning of the 21st; when, after a few hours calm, a breeze +sprung up at S.W. This bringing with it fair weather, I +steered north-easterly, in order to fall in with the land, beyond +that part of it where we had already so unprofitable +been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening, +the wind veered to the westward; and at eight o'clock the +next morning, we saw the land, extending from N.E. to E. +nine leagues distant. At this time we were in the latitude +of 47° 5' N. and in the longitude of 235° 10' E.</p> + +<p>I continued to stand to the north, with a fine breeze at +W. and W.N.W. till near seven o'clock in the evening, +when I tacked to wait for day-light. At this time we were +in forty-eight fathoms water, and about four leagues from +the land, which extended from N. to S.E. 1/2 E. and a small +round hill, which had the appearance of being an island, +bore N. 3/4 E., distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed; it +appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be +seen from the deck. Between this island or rock, and the +northern extreme of the land, there appeared to be a small +opening, which flattered us with the hopes of finding an +harbour. These hopes lessened as we drew nearer; and at +last we had some reason to think that the opening was +closed by low land. On this account I called the point of +land to the north of it <i>Cape Flattery</i>. It lies in the latitude +of 48° 15' N., and in the longitude of 235° 3' E. There is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page203" id="page203"></a>[pg 203]</span> +a round hill of a moderate height over it; and all the land +upon this part of the coast is of a moderate and pretty +equal height, well covered with wood, and had a very pleasant +and fertile appearance. It is in this very latitude where +we now were, that geographers have placed the pretended +strait of Juan de Fuca. But we saw nothing like it; nor is +there the least probability that ever any such thing existed.<a id="footnotetag45" name="footnotetag45"></a><a href="#footnote45"><sup>5</sup></a></p> + +<p>I stood off to the southward till midnight, when I tacked, +and steered to the N.W. with a gentle breeze at S.W. +intending to stand in for the land as soon as day-light +should appear. But, by that time, we were reduced to two +courses and close-reefed top-sails, having a very hard gale, +with rain, right on shore; so that, instead of running in for +the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which +we had already got. The south-west wind was, however, +but of short continuance; for in the evening it veered +again to the west. Thus had we perpetually strong west +and north-west winds to encounter. Sometimes, in an evening, +the wind would become moderate, and veer to the +southward; but this was always a sure prelude to a storm, +which blew the hardest at S.S.E. and was attended with +rain and sleet. It seldom lasted above four or six hours, +before it was succeeded by another gale from the N.W. +which, generally, brought with it fair weather. It was, by +the means of these southerly blasts, that we were enabled +to get to the north-west at all.</p> + +<p>At length, at nine o'clock in the morning of the 29th, as +we were standing to the N.E. we again saw the land, which, +at noon, extended from N.W. by W. to E.S.E. the nearest +part about six leagues distant. Our latitude was now +49° 29' N. and our longitude 232° 29' E. The appearance +of the country differed much from that of the parts which +we had before seen; being full of high mountains, whose +summits were covered with snow. But the valleys between +them, and the grounds on the sea coast, high as well as +low, were covered to a considerable breadth with high, +straight trees, that formed a beautiful prospect as of one +vast forest. The south-east extreme of the land formed a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page204" id="page204"></a>[pg 204]</span> +low point off which are many breakers, occasioned by +sunken rocks. On this account it was called <i>Point Breakers</i>. +It lies in the latitude of 49° 15' N., and in the longitude +of 233° 20' E., and the other extreme in about the +latitude of 50°, and the longitude of 232°. I named this +last <i>Woody Point</i>. It projects pretty much out to the S.W. +and is high land. Between these two points the shore +forms a large bay, which I called <i>Hope Bay</i>; hoping, from +the appearance of the land, to find in it a good harbour. +The event proved that we were not mistaken.</p> + +<p>As we drew nearer the coast, we perceived the appearance +of two inlets; one in the N.W., and the other in the +N.E. corner of the bay. As I could not fetch the former, I +bore up for the latter; and passed some breakers, or sunken +rocks, that lay a league or more from the shore. We +had nineteen and twenty fathoms water half a league without +them; but as soon as we had passed them, the depth +increased to thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a sandy +bottom; and farther in we found no ground with the +greatest length of line. Notwithstanding appearances, we +were not yet sure that there were any inlets; but as we +were in a deep bay, I had resolved to anchor, with a view +to endeavour to get some water, of which, by this time, we +were in great want. At length, as we advanced, the existence +of the inlet was no longer doubtful. At five o'clock +we reached the west point of it, where we were becalmed +for some time. While in this situation, I ordered all the +boats to be hoisted out to tow the ships in. But this was +hardly done, before a fresh breeze sprung up again at N.W. +with which we were enabled to stretch up into an arm +of the inlet, that was observed by us to run into the N.E. +There we were again becalmed, and obliged to anchor in +eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the shore as to reach +it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before she +got within the arm, where she anchored, and found only +seventy fathoms.</p> + +<p>We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the +coast to be inhabited; and at the place where we were first +becalmed, three canoes came off to the ship. In one of +these were two men, in another six, and in the third ten. +Having come pretty near us, a person in one of the two +last stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to +land, as we guessed, by his gestures. At the same time he +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page205" id="page205"></a>[pg 205]</span> +kept strewing handfuls of feathers towards us;<a id="footnotetag46" name="footnotetag46"></a><a href="#footnote46"><sup>6</sup></a> and some +of his companions threw handfuls of a red dust or powder +in the same manner. The person who played the orator, +wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something +which rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring +himself with his repeated exhortations, of which we did +not understand a word, he was quiet; and then others took +it, by turns, to say something, though they acted their part +neither so long, nor with so much vehemence, as the other. +We observed, that two or three had their hair quite strewed +over with small white feathers; and others had large +ones stuck into different parts of the head. After the tumultuous +noise had ceased, they lay at a little distance +from the ship, and conversed with each other in a very +easy manner; nor did they seem to shew the least surprise +or distrust. Some of them, now and then, got up, and said +something after the manner of their first harangues; and +one sung a very agreeable air, with a degree of softness +and melody which we could not have expected; the word +<i>haela</i> being often repeated as the burden of the song. The +breeze which soon after sprung up, bringing us nearer to +the shore, the canoes began to come off in greater numbers; +and we had at one time thirty-two of them near the ship, +carrying from three to seven or eight persons each, both +men and women. Several of these stood up in their canoes, +haranguing and making gestures, after the manner of our +first visitors. One canoe was remarkable for a singular +head, which had a bird's eye and bill, of an enormous size, +painted on it; and a person, who was in it, who seemed to +be a chief, was no less remarkable for his uncommon appearance; +having many feathers hanging from his head, +and being painted in an extraordinary manner.<a id="footnotetag47" name="footnotetag47"></a><a href="#footnote47"><sup>7</sup></a> He held +in his hand a carved bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, +with which he rattled as the person first mentioned had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page206" id="page206"></a>[pg 206]</span> +done; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which +was attended with some expressive gestures.</p> + +<p>Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could +not be suspected of any hostile intention, we could not prevail +upon any of them to come on board. They shewed +great readiness, however, to part with any thing they had, +and took from us whatever we offered them in exchange, +but were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles +of commerce; appearing to be perfectly acquainted +with the use of that metal. Many of the canoes followed +us to our anchoring-place; and a group, of about ten or a +dozen of them, remained alongside the Resolution most +part of the night.</p> + +<p>These circumstances gave us a reasonable ground of +hope, that we should find this a comfortable station to +supply all our wants, and to make us forget the hardships +and delays experienced during a constant succession of +adverse winds and boisterous weather, almost ever since +our arrival upon the coast of America.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote41" name="footnote41"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag41"> (return) </a><p>See Torquemada's Narrative of Viscaino's Expedition in 1602 and +1603, in the second volume of Vanegas's History of California, English +translation, from p. 229 to p. 308.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote42" name="footnote42"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag42"> (return) </a><p>This part of the west side of North America was so named by Sir +Francis Drake.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote43" name="footnote43"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag43"> (return) </a><p>In our calendar, the 7th of March is distinguished by the name of +Perpetua M, and the 12th by that of Gregory B.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote44" name="footnote44"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag44"> (return) </a><p>See the History of California, Eng. trans. vol. ii. p. 292.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote45" name="footnote45"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag45"> (return) </a><p>See Michael Locke's apocryphal account of Juan de Fuca and his +pretended strait, in Purchas, vol. iii. p. 849-852, and many later +Collections.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote46" name="footnote46"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag46"> (return) </a><p>The natives of this coast, twelve degrees farther south, also +brought +feathers as presents to Sir Francis Drake on his arrival.—See an account +of his voyage in <i>Campbell's edit. of Harris</i>, vol. i. p. 18—D. And in +this collection, vol. x.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote47" name="footnote47"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag47"> (return) </a><p>Viscaino met with natives on the coast of California, while he was +in the harbour of San Diego, <i>who were painted or besmeared with black +and white, and had their heads loaded with feathers</i>.—History of California, +vol. ii. p. 272.—D.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page207" id="page207"></a>[pg 207]</span> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h2>TRANSACTIONS AMONGST THE NATIVES OF NORTH AMERICA; +DISCOVERIES ALONG THAT COAST AND THE +EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, NORTHWARD TO ICY +CAPE; AND RETURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH +ISLANDS.</h2> + + +<h3>SECTION I.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.—Intercourse +with the Natives.—Articles brought to barter.—Thefts +committed.—The Observatories erected, and Carpenters +set to work.—Jealousy of the Inhabitants of the Sound +to prevent other Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships.—Stormy +and rainy Weather.—Progress round the Sound.—Behaviour +of the Natives at their Villages.—Their Manner +of drying fish, &c.—Remarkable Visit from Strangers, +and introductory Ceremonies.—A second Visit to one of the +Villages.—Leave to cut Grass, purchased.—The Ships sail.—Presents +given and received at parting.</i></blockquote> + +<p>The ships having happily found so excellent shelter in +an inlet, the coasts of which appeared to be inhabited by +a race of people, whose inoffensive behaviour promised a +friendly intercourse, the next morning, after coming to +anchor, I lost no time in endeavouring to find a commodious +harbour where we might station ourselves during our +continuance in the Sound. Accordingly, I sent three +armed boats, under the command of Mr King, upon this +service; and soon after, I went myself, in a small boat, on +the same search. I had very little trouble in finding what +we wanted. On the N.W. of the arm we were now in, +and not far from the ships, I met with a convenient snug +cove well suited to our purpose. Mr King was equally +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page208" id="page208"></a>[pg 208]</span> +successful; for he returned about noon, with an account of +a still better harbour, which he had seen and examined, +lying on the N.W. side of the land. But as it would have +required more time to carry the ships thither, than to the +cove where I had been, which was immediately within our +reach, this reason operated to determine my choice in favour +of the latter situation. But being apprehensive, that +we should not be able to transport our ships to it, and to +moor them properly, before night came on, I thought it +best to remain where we were till next morning; and, that +no time might be lost, I employed the remainder of the +day to some useful purposes, ordering the sails to be unbent, +the top-masts to be struck, and the fore-mast of the +Resolution to be unrigged, in order to fix a new bib, one +of the old ones being decayed.</p> + +<p>A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about +the ships all day, and a trade commenced betwixt us and +them, which was carried on with the strictest honesty on +both sides. The articles which they offered to sale were +skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, +rackoons, pole-cats, martins, and, in particular, of the sea-otters, +which are found at the islands E. of Kamtschatka. +Besides the skins in their native shape, they also brought +garments made of them, and another sort of cloathing +made of the bark of a tree, or some plant like hemp; weapons, +such as bows, arrows, and spears; fish-hooks, and instruments +of various kinds; wooden-vizors of many different +monstrous figures; a sort of woollen stuff, or blanketing; +bags filled with red ochre; pieces of carved work, beads, +and several other little ornaments of thin brass and iron, +shaped like a horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses; +and several chisels, or pieces of iron, fixed to handles. +From their possessing which metals, we could infer that +they had either been visited before by some civilized nation, +or had connections with tribes on their continent, who +had communication with them. But the most extraordinary +of all the articles which they brought to the ships for +sale, were human skulls, and hands not yet quite stripped +of the flesh, which they made our people plainly understand +they had eaten; and, indeed, some of them had evident +marks that they had been upon the fire. We had but +too much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that +the horrid practice of feeding on their enemies is as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page209" id="page209"></a>[pg 209]</span> +prevalent here, as we had found it to be at New Zealand and +other South Sea Islands. For the various articles which +they brought, they took in exchange knives, chisels, pieces +of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind +of metal. Glass-beads they were not fond of, and cloth of +every sort they rejected.</p> + +<p>We employed the next day in hauling our ships into the +cove, where they were moored head and stern, fastening +our hawsers to the trees on shore. On heaving up the anchor +of the Resolution, we found, notwithstanding the great +depth of water in which it was let go, that there were rocks +at the bottom. These had done some considerable damage +to the cable; and the hawsers that were carried out to warp +the ship into the cove also got foul of rocks, from which +it appeared that the whole bottom was strewed with them. +The ship being again very leaky in her upper works, I ordered +the carpenters to go to work to caulk her, and to repair +such other defects as, on examination, we might discover.</p> + +<p>The fame of our arrival brought a great concourse of +the natives to our ships in the course of this day. We +counted above a hundred canoes at one time, which might +be supposed to contain, at an average, five persons each; +for few of them had less than three on board; great numbers +had seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with +no less than seventeen. Amongst these visitors, many now +favoured us with their company for the first time, which +we could guess, from their approaching the ships with their +orations and other ceremonies. If they had any distrust or +fear of us at first, they now appeared to have laid it aside; +for they came on board the ships, and mixed with our people +with the greatest freedom. We soon discovered, by +this nearer intercourse, that they were as light-fingered as +any of our friends in the islands we had visited in the course +of the voyage. And they were far more dangerous thieves; +for, possessing sharp iron-instruments, they could cut a +hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, +the instant that our backs were turned. A large hook, +weighing between twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller +ones, and other articles of iron, were lost in this manner. +And, as to our boats, they stripped them of every bit of +iron that was worth carrying away, though we had always +men left in them as a guard. They were dexterous enough +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page210" id="page210"></a>[pg 210]</span> +in effecting their purposes; for one fellow would contrive +to amuse the boat-keeper, at one end of a boat, while another +was pulling out the iron-work at the other. If we +missed a thing immediately after it had been stolen, we +found little difficulty in detecting the thief, as they were +ready enough to impeach one another. But the guilty +person generally relinquished his prize with reluctance, and +sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to force.</p> + +<p>The ships being securely moored, we began our other +necessary business the next day. The observatories were +carried ashore, and placed upon an elevated rock on one +side of the cove, close to the Resolution. A party of men, +with an officer, was sent to cut wood, and to clear a place +for the conveniency of watering. Others were employed +to brew spruce-beer, as pine-trees abounded here. The +forge was also set up, to make the iron-work wanting for +the repairs of the fore-mast. For, besides one of the bibs +being defective, the larboard trestle-tree and one of the +cross-trees were sprung.</p> + +<p>A considerable number of the natives visited us daily; +and every now and then we saw new faces. On their first +coming, they generally went through a singular mode of +introducing themselves. They would paddle, with all their +strength, quite round both ships, a chief, or other principal +person in the canoe, standing up with a spear, or some +other weapon, in his hand, and speaking, or rather hollowing, +all the time. Sometimes the orator of the canoe +would have his face covered with a mask, representing either +a human visage, or that of some animal; and, instead +of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand, as before described. +After making this circuit round the ships, they +would come alongside, and begin to trade without further +ceremony. Very often, indeed, they would first give us a +song, in which all in the canoe joined, with a very pleasing +harmony.</p> + +<p>During these visits, they gave us no other trouble than +to guard against their thievish tricks. But, in the morning +of the 4th, we had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, +who were employed in cutting wood, and filling water, observed, +that the natives all around them were arming themselves +in the best manner they could; those, who were not +possessed of proper weapons, preparing sticks, and collecting +stones. On hearing this, I thought it prudent to arm +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page211" id="page211"></a>[pg 211]</span> +also; but, being determined to act upon the defensive, I +ordered all our workmen to retreat to the rock, upon which +we had placed our observatories, leaving the natives in +quiet possession of the ground where they had assembled, +which was within a stone's throw of the Resolution's stern. +Our fears were ill-grounded; these hostile preparations +were not directed against us, but against a body of their +own countrymen, who were coming to fight them; and our +friends of the Sound, on observing our apprehensions, used +their best endeavours to convince us that this was the case. +We could see that they had people looking out on each +point of the cove, and canoes frequently passed between +them and the main body assembled near the ships. At +length, the adverse party, in about a dozen large canoes, +appeared off the S. point of the cove, where they stopped, +and lay drawn up in a line of battle, a negotiation having +commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the +treaty, passed between the two parties, and there was some +speaking on both sides. At length, the difference, whatever +it was, seemed to be compromised; but the strangers +were not allowed to come alongside the ships, nor to have any +trade or intercourse with us. Probably we were the +cause of the quarrel; the strangers, perhaps, being desirous +to share in the advantages of a trade with us, and our first +friends, the inhabitants of the Sound, being determined to +engross us entirely to themselves. We had proofs of this +on several other occasions, nay, it appeared, that even those +who lived in the Sound were not united in the same cause; +for the weaker were frequently obliged to give way to the +stronger party, and plundered of every thing, without attempting +to make the least resistance.</p> + +<p>We resumed our work in the afternoon, and the next +day rigged the fore-mast; the head of which being rather +too small for the cap, the carpenter went to work, to fix a +piece on one side, to fill up the vacant space. In cutting +into the mast-head for this purpose, and examining the +state of it, both cheeks were found to be so rotten, that +there was no possibility of repairing them, and it became +necessary to get the mast out, and to fix new ones upon it. +It was evident, that one of the cheeks had been defective +at the first, and that the unsound part had been cut out, +and a piece put in, which had not only weakened the mast-head, +but had, in a great measure, been the occasion of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page212" id="page212"></a>[pg 212]</span> +rotting every other part of both cheeks. Thus, when we +were almost ready to put to sea, we had all our work to do +over again; and, what was still more provoking, an additional +repair was to be undertaken, which would require +some time to be completed. But, as there was no remedy, +we immediately set about it. It was fortunate for the voyage, +that these defects were discovered, when we were in +a place, where the materials requisite were to be procured. +For, amongst the drift-wood, in the cove where the ships +lay, were some small seasoned trees very fit for our purpose. +One of these was pitched upon, and the carpenters +began, without loss of time, to make out of it two new +cheeks.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 7th, we got the fore-mast out, and +hauled it ashore, and the carpenters of the ships were set +to work upon it. Some parts of the lower standing rigging +having been found to be very much decayed, as we had +time now to put them in order, while the carpenters were +repairing the fore-mast, I ordered a new set of main-rigging +to be fitted, and a more perfect set of fore-rigging to +be selected out of the best parts of the old.</p> + +<p>From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, +the weather had been exceedingly fine, without either wind +or rain. That comfort, at the very moment when the continuance +of it would have been of most service, was withdrawn. +In the morning of the 8th, the wind freshened at +S.E., attended with thick hazy weather and rain. In the +afternoon the wind increased; and, toward the evening, it +blew very hard indeed. It came, in excessively heavy +squalls, from over the high land on the opposite shore, +right into the cove, and, though the ships were very well +moored, put them in some danger. These tempestuous +blasts succeeded each other pretty quick, but they were of +short duration, and in the intervals between them we had +a perfect calm. According to the old proverb, Misfortunes +seldom come single; the mizen was now the only mast on +board the Resolution that remained rigged, with its top-mast +up. The former was so defective, that it could not +support the latter during the violence of the squalls, but +gave way at the head under the rigging. About eight +o'clock the gale abated; but the rain continued with very +little intermission for several days; and, that the carpenters +might be enabled to proceed in their labours, while it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page213" id="page213"></a>[pg 213]</span> +prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore-mast, where they +could work with some degree of convenience.</p> + +<p>The bad weather which now came on, did not, however, +hinder the natives from visiting us daily; and, in such circumstances, +their visits were very advantageous to us. For +they frequently brought us a tolerable supply of fish, when +we could not catch any ourselves with hook and line; and +there was not a proper place near us where we could draw +a net. The fish which they brought us were either sardines, +or what resembled them much; a small kind of +bream; and sometimes small cod.</p> + +<p>On the 11th, notwithstanding the rainy weather, the +main-rigging was fixed and got over head; and our employment, +the day after, was to take down the mizen-mast, +the head of which proved to be so rotten, that it dropped +off while in the slings. In the evening we were visited by +a tribe of natives whom we had never seen before, and +who, in general, were better-looking people than most of +our old friends, some of whom attended them. I prevailed +upon these visitors to go down into the cabin for the first +time, and observed, that there was not a single object that +fixed the attention of most of them for a moment; their +countenances marking, that they looked upon all our novelties +with the utmost indifference. This, however, was +not without exception; for a few of the company shewed +a certain degree of curiosity.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the next day, I went into the woods +with a party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizen-mast. +On the day following, it was brought to the place +where the carpenters were employed upon the fore-mast. +In the evening the wind, which had been, for some time, +westerly, veered to S.E., and increased to a very hard gale, +with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, +when it abated, and veered again to the W.</p> + +<p>The fore-mast being by this time finished, we hauled it +alongside; but the bad weather prevented our getting it +in till the afternoon; and we set about rigging it with the +greatest expedition, while the carpenters were going on +with the mizen-mast on shore. They had made very considerable +progress in it on the 16th, when they discovered +that the stick upon which they were at work was sprung, or +wounded, owing, as supposed, to some accident in cutting +it down. So that all their labour was thrown away, and it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page214" id="page214"></a>[pg 214]</span> +became necessary to get another tree out of the woods, +which employed all hands above half a day. During these +various operations, several of the natives, who were about +the ships, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, +which we did not expect; from their general indifference +and inattention.</p> + +<p>On the 18th, a party of strangers, in six or eight canoes, +came into the cove, where they remained, looking at us, +for some time, and then retired, without coming alongside +either ship. We supposed, that our old friends, who were +more numerous at this time about us, than these new visitors, +would not permit them to have any intercourse with +us. It was evident, upon this and several other occasions, +that the inhabitants of the adjoining parts of the Sound engrossed +us entirely to themselves; or if, at any time, they +did not hinder strangers from trading with us, they contrived +to manage the trade for them in such a manner, that +the price of their commodities was always kept up; while +the value of ours was lessening every day. We also found, +that many of the principal natives, who lived near us, carried +on a trade with more distant tribes, in the articles they +had procured from us. For we observed that they would +frequently disappear for four or five days at a time, and +then return with fresh cargoes of skins and curiosities, +which our people were so passionately fond of, that they +always came to a good market. But we received most benefit +from such of the natives as visited us daily. These, +after disposing of all their little trifles, turned their attention +to fishing; and we never failed to partake of what +they caught. We also got from these people a considerable +quantity of very good animal oil, which they had reserved +in bladders. In this traffic some would attempt to +cheat us, by mixing water with the oil; and, once or twice, +they had the address to carry their imposition so far, as to +fill their bladders with mere water, without a single drop of +oil. It was always better to bear with these tricks, than to +make them the foundation of a quarrel; for our articles of +traffic consisted, for the most part, of mere trifles; and yet +we were put to our shifts to find a constant supply even of +these. Beads, and such other toys, of which I had still +some left, were in little estimation. Nothing would go +down with our visitors but metal; and brass had, by this +time, supplanted iron, being so eagerly sought after, that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page215" id="page215"></a>[pg 215]</span> +before we left this place, hardly a bit of it was left in the +ships, except what belonged to our necessary instruments. +Whole suits of clothes were stripped of every button; bureaus +of their furniture; and copper-kettles, tin-cannisters, +candle-sticks, and the like, all went to wreck; so that our +American friends here got a greater medley and variety of +things from us, than any other nation whom we had visited +in the course of the voyage.</p> + +<p>After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair +day, we availed ourselves of it, to get up the top-masts and +yards, and to fix up the rigging. And, having now finished +most of our heavy work, I set out the next morning to +take a view of the Sound. I first went to the W. point, +where I found a large village, and, before it, a very snug +harbour, in which was from nine to four fathoms water, +over a bottom of fine sand. The people of this village, +who were numerous, and to most of whom I was well +known, received me very courteously; every one pressing +me to go into his house, or rather his apartment; for several +families live under the same roof. I did not decline +the invitations, and my hospitable friends, whom I visited, +spread a mat for me to sit down upon, and shewed me +every other mark of civility. In most of the houses were +women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before +mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner +that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. +Others were occupied in opening sardines. I had seen a +large quantity of them brought on shore from canoes, and +divided by measure amongst several people, who carried +them up to their houses, where the operation of curing +them by smoke-drying is performed. They hang them on +small rods, at first, about a foot from the fire; afterward +they remove them higher and higher, to make room for +others, till the rods, on which the fish hang, reach the top +of the house. When they are completely dried, they are +taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover +with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted; and they are +not a disagreeable article of food. Cod, and other large +fish, are also cured in the same manner by them; though +they sometimes dry these in the open air, without fire.</p> + +<p>From this village I proceeded up the west side of the +Sound. For about three miles, I found the shore covered +with small islands, which are so situated as to form several +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page216" id="page216"></a>[pg 216]</span> +convenient harbours, having various depths of water, from +thirty to seven fathoms, with a good bottom. Two leagues +within the Sound, on this west side, there runs in an arm +in the direction of N.N.W.; and two miles farther, is another +nearly in the same direction, with a pretty large +island before it. I had no time to examine either of these +arms; but have reason to believe, that they do not extend +far inland, as the water was no more than brackish at their +entrances. A mile above the second arm, I found the remains +of a village. The logs or framings of the houses +were standing; but the boards that had composed their +sides and roofs did not exist. Before this village were +some large fishing wears; but I saw nobody attending +them. These wears were composed of pieces of wicker-work +made of small rods, some closer than others, according +to the size of the fish intended to be caught in them. +These pieces of wicker-work (some of whose <i>superficies</i> are, +at least, twenty feet by twelve), are fixed up edgewise in +shallow water, by strong poles or pickets, that stand firm +in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain of a +few acres extent, covered with the largest pine-trees that +I ever saw. This was more remarkable, as the elevated +ground, on most other parts of this west side of the Sound, +was rather naked.</p> + +<p>From this place, I crossed over to the other, or east side +of the Sound, passing an arm of it that runs in N.N.E., to +appearance not far. I now found, what I had before conjectured, +that the land, under which the ships lay, was an +island; and that there were many smaller ones lying scattered +in the Sound on the west side of it. Opposite the +north end of our large island, upon the main land, I observed +a village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it +were not so polite as those of the other I had just visited. +But this cold reception seemed, in a great measure, if not +entirely, owing to one surly chief, who would not let me +enter their houses, following me wherever I went; and several +times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience +that I should be gone. I attempted in vain to sooth him +by presents, but though he did not refuse them, they did +not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better +pleased with us than was their inhospitable chief, dressed +themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page217" id="page217"></a>[pg 217]</span> +assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village, by joining +in a song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable.</p> + +<p>The day being now far spent, I proceeded for the ships, +round the north end of the large island; meeting, in my +way, with several canoes laden with sardines, which had +been just caught, somewhere in the east corner of the +Sound. When I got on board, I was informed, that, while +I was absent, the ships had been visited by some strangers, +in two or three large canoes, who, by signs, made our people +understand that they had come from the S.E., beyond +the bay. They brought several skins, garments, and other +articles, which they bartered. But what was most singular, +two silver table-spoons were purchased from them, which, +from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish +manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his +neck, by way of ornament. These visitors also appeared +to be more plentifully supplied with iron than the inhabitants +of the Sound.</p> + +<p>The mizen-mast being finished, it was got in, and rigged, +on the 21st; and the carpenters were set to work to +make a new fore-top-mast, to replace the one that had +been carried away some time before.</p> + +<p>Next morning, about eight o'clock, we were visited by +a number of strangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They +came into the cove from the southward, and as soon as +they had turned the point of it, they stopped, and lay +drawn up in a body above half an hour, about two or three +hundred yards from the ships. At first, we thought, that +they were afraid to come nearer; but we were mistaken in +this, and they were only preparing an introductory ceremony. +On advancing toward the ships, they all stood up +in their canoes, and began to sing. Some of their songs, +in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and others +in quicker time; and they accompanied their notes with +the most regular motions of their hands; or beating in +concert, with their paddles, on the sides of the canoes, and +making other very expressive gestures. At the end of each +song, they remained silent a few seconds, and then began +again, sometimes pronouncing the word <i>hooee!</i> forcibly, as +a chorus. After entertaining us with this specimen of their +music, which we listened to with admiration, for above +half an hour, they came alongside the ships, and bartered +what they had to dispose of. Some of our old friends of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page218" id="page218"></a>[pg 218]</span> +the Sound were now found to be amongst them, and they +took the whole management of the traffic between us and +the strangers, much to the advantage of the latter.</p> + +<p>Our attendance on these visitors being finished, Captain +Clerke and I went, in the forenoon, with two boats, to the +village at the west point of the Sound. When I was there +before, I had observed, that plenty of grass grew near it; +and it was necessary to lay in a quantity of this, as food +for the few goats and sheep which were still left on board. +The inhabitants received us with the same demonstrations +of friendship which I had experienced before; and the +moment we landed, I ordered some of my people to begin +their operation of cutting. I had not the least imagination, +that the natives could make any objection to our furnishing +ourselves with what seemed to be of no use to them, +but was necessary for us. However, I was mistaken; for, +the moment that our men began to cut, some of the inhabitants +interposed, and would not permit them to proceed, +saying they must "<i>makook</i>," that is, must first buy it. I +was now in one of the houses; but as soon as I heard of +this, I went to the field, where I found about a dozen of +the natives, each of whom laid claim to some part of the +grass that grew in this place. I bargained with them for +it, and having completed the purchase, thought that we +were now at liberty to cut wherever we pleased. But here, +again, it appeared, that I was under a mistake; for the liberal +manner in which I had paid the first pretended proprietors, +brought fresh demands upon me from others; so +that there did not seem to be a single blade of grass, that +had not a separate owner, and so many of them were to be +satisfied, that I very soon emptied my pockets. When +they found that I really had nothing more to give, their +importunities ceased, and we were permitted to cut where-ever +we pleased, and as much as we chose to carry away.</p> + +<p>Here I must observe, that I have no where, in my several +voyages, met with any uncivilized nation, or tribe, who +had such strict notions of their having a right to the exclusive +property of every thing that their country produces, +as the inhabitants of this Sound. At first, they wanted our +people to pay for the wood and water that they carried on +board; and had I been upon the spot, when these demands +were made, I should certainly have complied with them. +Our workmen, in my absence, thought differently, for they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page219" id="page219"></a>[pg 219]</span> +took but little notice of such claims; and the natives, when +they found that we were determined to pay nothing, at last +ceased to apply. But they made a merit of necessity, and +frequently afterward took occasion to remind us, that they +had given us wood and water out of friendship.<a id="footnotetag48" name="footnotetag48"></a><a href="#footnote48"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>During the time I was at this village, Mr Webber, who +had attended me thither, made drawings of every thing +that was curious, both within and without doors. I had +also an opportunity of inspecting more narrowly, the construction +of the houses, household furniture, and utensils, +and the striking peculiarities of the customs and modes of +living of the inhabitants. These shall be described in another +place, in the best manner I can, calling in to my assistance +the observations of Mr Anderson. When we had +completed all our operations at this village, the natives +and we parted very good friends, and we got back to the +ships in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>The three following days were employed in getting ready +to put to sea; the sails were bent, the observatories and +instruments, brewing vessels, and other things, were moved +from the shore; some small spars, for different uses, and +pieces of timber, which might be occasionally sawn into +boards, were prepared and put on board; and both ships +were cleared, and put into a sailing condition.</p> + +<p>Every thing being now ready, in the morning of the +26th, I intended to have put to sea; but both wind and +tide being against us, was obliged to wait till noon, when +the S.W. wind was succeeded by a calm, and the tide +turning in our favour, we cast off the moorings, and with +our boats towed the ships out of the cove. After this, we +had variable light airs and calms, till four in the afternoon, +when a breeze sprung up northerly, with very thick, hazy +weather. The mercury in the barometer fell unusually +low, and we had every other fore-runner of an approaching +storm, which we had reason to expect would be from +the southward. This made me hesitate a little, as night +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page220" id="page220"></a>[pg 220]</span> +was at hand, whether I should venture to sail, or wait till +the next morning. But my anxious impatience to proceed +upon the voyage, and the fear of losing this opportunity of +getting out of the Sound, making a greater impression on +my mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger, I +determined to put to sea at all events.</p> + +<p>Our friends, the natives, attended us, till we were almost +out of the Sound; some on board the ships, and others in +their canoes. One of their chiefs, who had, some time before, +attached himself to me, was amongst the last who left +us. Having, before he went, bestowed upon him a small +present, I received in return a beaver-skin, of much greater +value. This called upon me to make some addition to my +present, which pleased him so much, that he insisted upon +my acceptance of the beaver-skin cloak which he then +wore; and of which I knew he was particularly fond. +Struck with this instance of generosity, and desirous that +he should be no sufferer by his friendship to me, I presented +to him a new broad sword, with a brass hilt, the possession +of which made him completely happy. He, and also +many others of his countrymen, importuned us much to +pay them another visit; and, by way of encouragement, +promised to lay in a good stock of skins. I made no doubt, +that whoever comes after me to this place, will find the natives +prepared accordingly, with no inconsiderable supply +of an article of trade, which, they could observe, we were +eager to possess; and which we found could be purchased +to great advantage.<a id="footnotetag49" name="footnotetag49"></a><a href="#footnote49"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>Such particulars about the country, and its inhabitants, +as came to our knowledge during our short stay, and have +not been mentioned in the course of the narrative, will +furnish materials for the two following sections.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote48" name="footnote48"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag48"> (return) </a><p>Similar to the behaviour of the natives of Nootka, on this +occasion, +was that of another tribe of Indians, farther north, in latitude 57° 18', to +the Spaniards, who had preceded Captain Cook only three years, in a +voyage to explore the coast of America, northward of California. See the +journal of that voyage, writ by the second pilot of the fleet, and published +by the Honourable Mr Daines Barrington, to whom the literary world +owes so many obligations.—<i>Miscellanies</i>, p. 505, 506.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote49" name="footnote49"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag49"> (return) </a><p>Captain King, as we shall afterwards find, proposes a plan for the +establishment of a fur-trade with this coast of America. To this he was +incited by the experience of the value of these articles in the Chinese +market. In fact, a settlement for the purpose of carrying on this trade +was commenced in 1786, by an association of British merchants resident +in India. It was soon afterwards seized on by the Spaniards who pretended +a prior right. But they, as we have already mentioned, vol. xv. p. 157, +abandoned all claim to this Sound in 1790; and in 1795, it was formally +taken possession of, in name of his Britannic Majesty.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page221" id="page221"></a>[pg 221]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION II.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into it.—Account +of the adjacent Country.—Weather.—Climate.—Trees.—Other +Vegetable Productions.—Quadrupeds, whose +Skins were brought for Sale.—Sea Animals.—Description +of a Sea Otter.—Birds.—Water Fowl.—Fish.—Shell-fish, +&c.—Reptiles.—Insects.—Stones, &c.—Persons of the Inhabitants.—Their +Colour.—Common Dress and Ornaments.—Occasional +Dresses, and monstrous Decorations of wooden +Masks.—Their general Dispositions.—Songs.—Musical Instruments.—Their +Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals.</i></blockquote> + +<p>On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the +name of King George's Sound; but I afterward found, that +it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated +in the east corner of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 49° +33' N., and in the longitude of 233° 12' E. The east coast +of that bay, all the way from Breaker's Point to the entrance +of the Sound, is covered by a chain of sunken rocks, +that seemed to extend some distance from the shore; and, +near the Sound, are some islands and rocks above water.</p> + +<p>We enter this Sound between two rocky points, that lie +E.S.E., and W.N.W. from each other, distant between +three and four miles. Within these points the Sound widens +considerably, and extends in, to the northward, four +leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches toward +its bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity +to ascertain. But, from the circumstance of finding +that the water freshened where our boats crossed their entrance, +it is probable that they had almost reached its utmost +limits. And this probability is increased by the hills +that bounded it toward the land, being covered with thick +snow, when those toward the sea, or where we lay, had not +a speck remaining on them, though, in general, they were +much higher. In the middle of the Sound are a number +of islands of various sizes. The depth of water in the middle +of the Sound, and even close home to some parts of its +shore, is from forty-seven to ninety fathoms, and perhaps +more. The harbours, and anchoring-places within its circuit, +are numerous; but we had no time to survey them. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page222" id="page222"></a>[pg 222]</span> +The cove in which our ships lay is on the east side of the +Sound, and on the east side of the largest of the islands. +It is covered from the sea, but has little else to recommend +it, being exposed to the S.E. winds, which we found to +blow with great violence; and the devastation they make +sometimes was apparent in many places.</p> + +<p>The land bordering upon the sea-coast is of a middling +height and level; but within the Sound, it rises almost +every-where into steep hills, which agree in their general +formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with some +sharp, though not very prominent, ridges on their sides. +Some of these hills may be reckoned high, while others of +them are of a very moderate height; but even the highest +are entirely covered to their tops with the thickest woods; +as well as every flat part toward the sea. There are sometimes +spots upon the sides of some of the hills which are +bare; but they are few, in comparison of the whole, though +they sufficiently point out the general rocky disposition of +these hills. Properly speaking, they have no soil upon +them, except a kind of compost, produced from rotten +mosses and trees, of the depth of two feet or more. Their +foundations are, therefore, to be considered as nothing +more than stupendous rocks, of a whitish or grey cast, +where they have been exposed to the weather; but, when +broken, they appeared to be of a blueish grey colour, like +that universal sort which were found at Kerguelen's Land. +The rocky shores are a continued mass of this; and the +little coves, in the Sound, have beaches composed of fragments +of it, with a few other pebbles. All these coves are +furnished with a great quantity of fallen wood lying in +them, which is carried in by the tide; and with rills of +fresh water, sufficient for the use of a ship, which seem to +be supplied entirely from the rains, and fogs that hover +about the tops of the hills. For few springs can be expected +in so rocky a country, and the fresh water found farther +up the Sound, most probably arose from the melting of the +snow; there being no room to suspect, that any large river +falls into the Sound, either from strangers coming down it, +or from any other circumstance. The water of these rills +is perfectly clear, and dissolves soap easily.</p> + +<p>The weather, during our stay, corresponded pretty nearly +with that which we had experienced off the coast. That +is, when the wind was any where between N. and W., the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page223" id="page223"></a>[pg 223]</span> +weather was fine and clear; but if to the southward of W., +hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we had any experience +of it, is infinitely milder than that on the east coast +of America, under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury +in the thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower +than 42°, and very often, in the day, it rose to 60°. No +such thing as frost was perceived in any of the low ground; +on the contrary, vegetation had made a considerable progress, +for I met with grass that was already above a foot +long.</p> + +<p>The trees which chiefly compose the woods, are the Canadian +pine, white cypress, <i>cypressus thyoides</i>, the wild pine, +with two or three other sorts of pine less common. The +two first make up almost two-thirds of the whole; and, at a +distance, might be mistaken for the same tree, as they both +run up into pointed spire-like tops, but they are easily distinguished +on coming nearer from their colour, the cypress +being of a much paler green, or shade, than the other. +The trees, in general, grow with great vigour, and are all of +a large size.</p> + +<p>There is but little variety of other vegetable productions, +though, doubtless, several had not yet sprung up at the +early season when we visited the place, and many more +might be hid from the narrow sphere of our researches. +About the rocks, and verge of the woods, we found strawberry-plants, +some raspberry, currant, and gooseberry bushes, +which were all in a most flourishing state, with a few small +black alder-trees. There are, likewise, a species of sow-thistle, +goose-grass, some crow's-foot, which has a very fine +crimson flower, and two sorts of <i>anthericum</i>, one with a large +orange flower, and the other with a blue one. We also +found, in these situations, some wild rose-bushes, which +were just budding, a great quantity of young leeks, with, +triangular leaves, a small sort of grass, and some water-cresses, +which grow about the sides of the rills, besides great +abundance of <i>andromeda</i>. Within the woods, besides two +sorts of underwood shrubs unknown to us, are mosses and +ferns. Of the first of which, are seven or eight different +sorts, of the last, not above three or four, and the species of +both, are mostly such as are common to Europe and America.</p> + +<p>As the season of the year was unfavourable to our gaining +much knowledge of the vegetable productions of this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page224" id="page224"></a>[pg 224]</span> +country, so our own situation while there, put it out of our +power to learn much about its animals. For as the want of +water made it necessary that we should enter the Sound +at first, unforeseen accidents which happened afterward, +though they lengthened our stay, were rather unfavourable +to our obtaining any knowledge of this kind. The emergency +of the case required, that every person should be +constantly employed in the necessary business of the ships, +which was the capital object, as the season was advancing +very fast, and the success of the voyage depended upon +their diligence and alacrity in expediting the various tasks +assigned to them. Hence it happened, that excursions of +every kind, either on the land, or by water, were never attempted. +And as we lay in a cove on an island, no other +animals were ever seen alive in the woods there, than two +or three racoons, martins, and squirrels. Besides these, +some of our people who, one day, landed on the continent, +near the S.E. side of the entrance of the sound, observed +the prints of a bear's feet near the shore. The account, +therefore, that we can give of the quadrupeds, is taken from +the skins which the natives brought to sell; and these were +often so mutilated with respect to the distinguishing parts, +such as the paws, tails, and heads, that it was impossible +even to guess at the animals to whom they belonged, +though others were so perfect, or at least so well known, +that they left no room to doubt about them.</p> + +<p>Of these the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and +wolves. The bear-skins were in great numbers, few of them +very large, but, in general, of a shining black colour. The +deer-skins were scarcer, and they seem to belong to that +sort called the fallow-deer by the historians of Carolina, +though Mr Pennant thinks it quite a different species from, +ours, and distinguishes it by the name of Virginian deer.<a id="footnotetag50" name="footnotetag50"></a><a href="#footnote50"><sup>1</sup></a> +The foxes are in great plenty, and of several varieties, some +of their skins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the +tail, others of a deep or reddish yellow, intermixed with +black, and a third sort of a whitish grey or ash-colour, also +intermixed with black. Our people used to apply the name +of fox or wolf indiscriminately, when the skins were so mutilated +as to leave room for a doubt. But we got, at last, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page225" id="page225"></a>[pg 225]</span> +an entire wolf's skin with the head on, and it was grey. +Besides the common sort of martin, the pine-martin is also +here, and another, whose skin is of a lighter brown colour +than either, with coarser hair, but is not so common, and +is, perhaps, only a mere variety arising from age, or some +other accidental circumstance. The ermine is also found at +this place, but is rare and small, nor is the hair remarkably +fine, though the animal appeared to be perfectly white, +except an inch or more at the tip of the tail. The racoons +and squirrels are of the common sort; but the latter is rather +smaller than ours, and has a deeper rusty colour running +along the back.</p> + +<p>We were clear as to the existence of all the animals already +mentioned, but there are two others besides, which we +could not distinguish with sufficient certainty. Of the first +of these we saw none of the skins, but what were dressed or +tanned like leather. The natives wear them on some occasions; +and from the size as well as the thickness, they were +generally concluded to belong to the elk, or mouse-deer, +though some of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. +The other animal, which seems by no means rare, was +guessed to be a species of the wild cat or lynx. The length +of the skins, without the head, which none of them had, was +about two feet two inches. They are covered with a very +fine wool or fur, of a very light-brown or whitish yellow colour, +intermixed with long hairs, which on the back, where +they are shortest, are blackish; on the sides, where they are +longer, of a silver white; and on the belly, where they are +longest, of the colour of the wool, but the whitish, or silver +hairs, are often so predominant, that the whole animal acquires +a cast of that kind. The tail is only three inches +long, and has a black tip. The whole skin being, by the +natives, called <i>wanshee</i>, that, most probably, is their name +for this animal. Hogs, dogs, and goats, have not as yet +found their way to this place. Nor do the natives seem to +have any knowledge of our brown rats, to which, when they +saw them on board the ships, they applied the name they +give to squirrels. And though they called our goats <i>eineetla</i>, +this, most probably, is their name for a young deer or +fawn.</p> + +<p>The sea-animals seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, +and seals. The last of these seem only of the common +sort, judging from the skins which we saw here, their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page226" id="page226"></a>[pg 226]</span> +colour being either silvery, yellowish, plain, or spotted with +black. The porpoise is the <i>phocena</i>. I have chosen to refer +to this class the sea-otter, as living mostly in the water. +It might have been sufficient to have mentioned, that this +animal abounds here, as it is fully described in different +books, taken from the accounts of the Russian adventurers +in their expeditions eastward from Kamtschatka, if there +had not been a small difference in one that we saw. We, +for some time, entertained doubts, whether the many skins +which the natives brought, really belonged to this animal, +as our only reason for being of that opinion, was founded +on the size, colour, and fineness of the fur, till a short while +before our departure, when a whole one, that had been just +killed, was purchased from some strangers who came to +barter; and of this Mr Webber made a drawing. It was +rather young, weighing only twenty-five pounds, of a shining +or glossy black colour, but many of the hairs being +tipt with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. The +face, throat, and breast were of a yellowish white, or very +light-brown colour, which, in many of the skins, extended +the whole length of the belly. It had six cutting teeth in +each jaw, two of those of the lower jaw being very minute, +and placed without, at the base of the two middle ones. In +these circumstances, it seems to disagree with those found +by the Russians, and also in not having the outer toes of the +hind feet skirted with a membrane. There seemed also a +greater variety in the colour of the skins, than is mentioned +by the describers of the Russian sea-otters. These +changes of colour certainly take place at different gradations +of life. The very young ones had brown hair, which +was coarse, with very little fur underneath; but those of the +size of the entire animal, which came into our possession, +and just described, had a considerable quantity of that substance, +and both in that colour and state the sea-otters +seem to remain, till they have attained their full growth. +After that, they lose the black colour, and assume a deep +brown or sooty colour, but have then a greater quantity of +very fine fur, and scarcely any long hairs. Others, which +we suspected to be still older, were of a chesnut-brown; and +a few skins were seen that had even acquired a perfectly +yellow colour. The fur of these animals, as mentioned in +the Russian accounts, is certainly softer and finer than that +of any others we know of; and, therefore, the discovey of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page227" id="page227"></a>[pg 227]</span> +this part of the continent of North America, where so valuable +an article of commerce may be met with, cannot be a +matter of indifference.<a id="footnotetag51" name="footnotetag51"></a><a href="#footnote51"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different +species, but very scarce as to numbers; and these few are +so shy, that, in all probability, they are continually harassed +by the natives, perhaps to eat them as food, certainly to +get possession of their feathers, which they use as ornaments. +Those which frequent the woods, are crows and ravens, +not at all different from our English ones, a blueish +jay or magpie, common wrens, which are the only singing +bird that we heard, the Canadian or migrating thrush, and +a considerable number of brown eagles, with white heads +and tails, which, though they seem principally to frequent +the coast, come into the Sound in bad weather, and sometimes +perch upon the trees. Amongst some other birds, of +which the natives either brought fragments, or dried skins, +we could distinguish a small species of hawk, a heron, and +the <i>alcyon</i>, or large-crested American king-fisher. There +are also some, which, I believe, are not mentioned, or at +least vary, very considerably, from the accounts given of +them by any writers who have treated professedly on this +part of natural history. The two first of these are <i>species</i> of +wood-peckers. One less than a thrush, of a black colour +above, with white spots on the wings, a crimson head, neck, +and breast, and a yellowish olive-coloured belly, from which +last circumstance it might, perhaps, not improperly be called +the yellow-bellied wood-pecker. The other is a larger, +and much more elegant bird, of a dusky brown colour, on +the upper part, richly waved with black, except about the +head, the belly of a reddish cast, with round black spots, a +black spot on the breast, and the under-side of the wings +and tail of a plain scarlet colour, though blackish above, +with a crimson streak running from the angle of the mouth, +a little down the neck on each side. The third and fourth, +are a small bird of the finch kind, about the size of a linnet, +of a dark dusky colour, whitish below, with a black head +and neck, and white bill; and a sand-piper, of the size of a +small pigeon, of a dusky brown colour, and white below, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page228" id="page228"></a>[pg 228]</span> +except the throat and breast, with a broad white band +across the wings. There are also humming-birds, which yet +seem to differ from the numerous sorts of this delicate animal +already known, unless they be a mere variety of the +<i>trochilus colubris</i> of Linnæus. These, perhaps, inhabit more +to the southward, and spread northward as the season advances; +because we saw none at first, though, near the +time of our departure, the natives brought them to the ships +in great numbers.</p> + +<p>The birds which frequent the waters and the shores, are +not more numerous than the others. The quebrantahuessos, +gulls, and shags, were seen off the coast, and the two last +also frequent the Sound. They are of the common sorts, +the shags being our cormorant or water-crow. We saw two +sorts of wild-ducks; one black, with a white head, which +were in considerable flocks, the other white, with a red bill, +but of a larger size; and the greater <i>lumme</i>, or diver, found +in our northern countries. There were also seen, once or +twice, some swans flying across the Sound to the northward, +but we knew nothing of their haunts. On the shores, besides +the sand-piper, described above, we found another, +about the size of a lark, which bears a great affinity to the +burre, and a plover differing very little from our common +sea-lark.</p> + +<p>Fish are more plentiful in quantity than birds, though the +variety is not very great; and yet, from several circumstances, +it is probable, that even the variety is considerably +increased at certain seasons. The principal sorts, which we +found in great numbers, are the common herring, but scarcely +exceeding seven inches in length; a smaller sort, which +is the same with the anchovy, or sardine, though rather +larger; a white, or silver-coloured bream, and another of a +gold-brown colour, with many narrow longitudinal blue +stripes. The herrings and sardines, doubtless, come in large +shoals, and only at stated seasons, as is common with that +sort of fish. The bream of both sorts, may be reckoned the +next to these in quantity; and the full-grown ones weighed, +at least, a pound. The other fish, which are all scarce, +are a small brown kind of <i>sculpin</i>, such as is found on the +coast of Norway, another of a brownish red cast, frost-fish, +a large one, somewhat resembling the bull-head, with a +tough skin, destitute of scales; and now and then, toward +the time of our leaving the Sound, the natives brought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page229" id="page229"></a>[pg 229]</span> +a small brownish cod, spotted with white, and a red fish of +the same size, which some of our people said they had seen +in the strait of Magalhaens, besides another differing little +from the hake. There are also considerable numbers of +those fish called the <i>chimæræ</i>, or little sea-wolves, by some, +which is akin to, and about the size of, the <i>pezegallo</i>, or +elephant-fish. Sharks, likewise, sometimes frequent the +Sound, for the natives have some of their teeth in their possession; +and we saw some pieces of ray, or scate, which +seemed to have been pretty large. The other marine animals +that ought to be mentioned here, are a small cruciated +<i>medusa</i>, or blubber, star-fish, which differ somewhat +from the common ones, two small sorts of crabs, and two +others which the natives brought, one of them of a thick, +tough, gelatinous consistence, and the other a sort of membranaceous +tube or pipe, both which are probably taken +from the rocks. And we, also, purchased from them once +a very large cuttle-fish.</p> + +<p>There is abundance of large muscles about the rocks, +many sea-ears, and we often saw shells of pretty large plain +<i>chamæ</i>. The smaller sorts are some <i>trochi</i> of two species, a +curious <i>murex</i>, rugged wilks, and a snail, all which are, probably, +peculiar to this place, at least I do not recollect to +have seen them in any country near the same latitude in +either hemisphere. There are, besides these, some small +plain cockles, limpets; and some strangers, who come into +the Sound, wore necklaces of a small blueish <i>volute</i> or <i>panamæ</i>. +Many of the muscles are a span in length, and some +having pretty large pearls, which, however, are both badly +shaped and coloured. We may conclude, that there is red +coral in the Sound, or somewhere upon the coast, some thick +pieces, or branches, having been seen in the canoes of the +natives.</p> + +<p>The only animals of the reptile kind observed here, and +found in the woods, were brown snakes two feet long, with +whitish stripes on the back and sides, which are harmless, +as we often saw the natives carry them alive in their hands; +and brownish water-lizards, with a tail exactly like that of +an eel, which frequented the small standing pools about the +rocks.</p> + +<p>The insect tribe seem to be more numerous. For though +the season, which is peculiarly fitted to their appearing +abroad, was only beginning, we saw four or five different +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page230" id="page230"></a>[pg 230]</span> +sorts of butterflies, none of which were uncommon, a good +many humble-bees, some of our common gooseberry moths, +two or three sorts of flies, a few beetles, and some musquitoes, +which, probably, may be more numerous and troublesome +in a country so full of wood, during the summer, though at +this time they did little mischief.</p> + +<p>As to the mineral substances in this country, though we +found both iron and copper here, there is little reason to +believe that either of them belong to the place. Neither +were the ores of any metal seen, if we except a coarse, red, +earthy, or ochry substance, used by the natives in painting +themselves, which probably may contain a little iron, with +a white and a black pigment used for the same purpose. +But we did not procure specimens of them, and therefore +cannot positively determine what are their component +parts.</p> + +<p>Besides the stone or rock that constitutes the mountains +and shores, which sometimes contains pieces of very coarse +<i>quartz</i>, we found amongst the natives, things made of a +hard black <i>granite</i>, though not remarkably compact or fine +grained, a greyish whetstone, the common oil-stone of our +carpenters, in coarser and finer pieces, and some black bits +which are little inferior to the hone-stone. The natives also +use the transparent leafy <i>glimmer</i>, or Muscovy glass, a brown +leafy or martial sort, and they sometimes brought to us +pieces of rock-crystal, tolerably transparent. The two first +are, probably, found near the spot, as they seemed to be in +considerable quantities; but the latter seems to be brought +from a greater distance, or is very scarce; for our visitors +always parted with it reluctantly. Some of the pieces were +octangular, and had the appearance of being formed into +that shape by art.</p> + +<p>The persons of the natives are, in general, under the +common stature; but not slender in proportion, being +commonly pretty full or plump, though not muscular. Neither +doth the soft fleshiness seem ever to swell into corpulence; +and many of the older people are rather spare or +lean. The visage of most of them is round and full, and +sometimes also broad, with high prominent cheeks; and, +above these, the face is frequently much depressed, or seems +fallen in quite across between the temples; the nose also +flattening at its base, with pretty wide nostrils, and a rounded +point. The forehead rather low, the eyes small, black, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page231" id="page231"></a>[pg 231]</span> +rather languishing than sparkling; the mouth round, with +large round thickish lips, the teeth tolerably equal and well +set, but not remarkably white. They have either no beards +at all, which was most commonly the case, or a small thin +one upon the point of the chin, which does not arise from +any natural defect of hair on that part, but from plucking +it out more or less; for some of them, particularly the old +men, have not only considerable beards all over the chin, +but whiskers or mustachios, both on the upper lip, and running +from thence toward the lower jaw obliquely downward.<a id="footnotetag52" name="footnotetag52"></a><a href="#footnote52"><sup>3</sup></a> +Their eye-brows are also scanty, and always +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page232" id="page232"></a>[pg 232]</span> +narrow; but the hair of the head is in great abundance, very +coarse and strong, and, without a single exception, black, +straight, and dank, or hanging down over the shoulders. The +neck is short, the arms and body have no particular mark +of beauty or elegance in their formation, but are rather +clumsy; and the limbs in all are very small in proportion +to the other parts, and crooked or ill-made, with large feet +badly shaped, and projecting ancles. Their last defect +seems in a great measure to arise from their sitting so much +on their hams or knees, both in their canoes and houses.</p> + +<p>Their colour we could never positively determine, as +their bodies were incrusted with paint and dirt; though, in +particular cases, when these were well rubbed off, the whiteness +of the skin appeared almost to equal that of Europeans; +though rather of that pale effete cast which distinguishes +those of our southern nations. Their children, whose skins +had never been stained with paint, also equalled ours in +whiteness. During their youth, some of them have no disagreeable +look, if compared to the generality of the people, +but this seems to be entirely owing to the particular +animation attending that period of life; for, after attaining +a certain age, there is hardly any distinction. Upon the +whole, a very remarkable sameness seems to characterize +the countenances of the whole nation; a dull phlegmatic +want of expression, with very little variation, being strongly +marked in all of them.</p> + +<p>The women are nearly of the same size, colour, and form +with the men, from whom it is not easy to distinguish them, +as they possess no natural delicacies sufficient to render +their persons agreeable; and hardly any one was seen, even +amongst those who were in the prime of life, who had the +least pretensions to be called handsome.</p> + +<p>Their common dress is a flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented +on the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and, +at the lower edge, by fringes or tassels. It passes under the +left arm, and is tied over the right shoulder, by a string +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page233" id="page233"></a>[pg 233]</span> +before and one behind, near its middle, by which means both +arms are left free, and it hangs evenly, covering the left +side, but leaving the right open, except from the loose part +of the edges falling upon it, unless when the mantle is fastened +by a girdle (of coarse matting or woollen) round the +waist, which is often done. Over this, which reaches below +the knees, is worn a small cloak of the same substance, +likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape this resembles +a round dish-cover, being quite close, except in the middle, +where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head, +and then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to +the elbows, and the body as far as the waist. Their head is +covered with a cap, of the figure of a truncated cone, or +like a flower-pot, made of fine matting, having the top frequently +ornamented with a round or pointed knob, or bunch +of leather tassels, and there is a string that passes under +the chin, to prevent its blowing off.</p> + +<p>Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, +the men frequently throw over their other garments the +skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and +tie it as a cloak near the upper part, wearing it sometimes +before and sometimes behind. In rainy weather, they +throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have also +woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The +hair is commonly worn hanging down loose; but some, +when they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of +the head. Their dress, upon the whole, is convenient, and +would, by no means be inelegant, were it kept clean. But +as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint, of +a clayey or coarse ochry substance, mixed with oil, their +garments, by this means, contract a rancid offensive smell, +and a greasy nastiness; so that they make a very wretched +dirty appearance, and what is still worse, their heads and +their garments swarm with vermin, which, so depraved is +their taste for cleanliness, we used to see them pick off with +great composure and eat.</p> + +<p>Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, +their faces are often stained with a black, a brighter red, or +a white colour, by way of ornament. The last of these gives +them a ghastly, disgusting aspect. They also strew the +brown martial <i>mica</i> upon the paint, which makes it glitter. +The ears of many of them are perforated in the lobe, where +they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page234" id="page234"></a>[pg 234]</span> +the outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of bone, +quills fixed upon a leathern thong, small shells, bunches of +woollen tassels, or pieces of thin copper, which our beads +could never supplant. The <i>septum</i> of the nose, in many, is +also perforated, through which they draw a piece of soft +cord; and others wear, at the same place, small thin pieces +of iron, brass, or copper, shaped almost like a horse-shoe, +the narrow opening of which receives the <i>septum</i>, so as that +the two points may gently pinch it, and the ornament thus +hangs over the upper lip. The rings of our brass buttons, +which they eagerly purchased, were appropriated to this +use. About their wrists they wore bracelets or bunches of +white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly substance, +bunches of thongs, with tassels, or a broad black shining +horny substance, of one piece. And about their ancles they +also frequently wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the +sinews of animals twisted to a considerable thickness.</p> + +<p>Thus far of their ordinary dress and ornaments; but they +have some that seem to be used only on extraordinary occasions, +either when they exhibit themselves as strangers, +in visits of ceremony, or when they go to war. Amongst +the first may be considered the skins of animals, such as +wolves or bears, tied on in the usual manner, but ornamented +at the edges with broad borders of fur, or of the woollen +stuff manufactured by them, ingeniously wrought with +various figures. These are worn either separately, or over +their own common garments. On such occasions, the most +common head-dress is a quantity of withe, or half-beaten +bark, wrapped about the head, which, at the same time, has +various large feathers, particularly those of eagles, stuck in +it, or is entirely covered, or we may say, powdered with +small white feathers. The face, at the same time, is variously +painted, having its upper and lower parts of different +colours, the strokes appearing like fresh gashes, or it is besmeared +with a kind of tallow, mixed with paint, which is +afterward formed into a great variety of regular figures, and +appears like carved work. Sometimes, again, the hair is +separated into small parcels, which are tied at intervals of +about two inches, to the end, with thread, and others tie it +together behind, after our manner, and stick branches of the +<i>cypressus thyoides</i> in it. Thus dressed, they have a truly savage +and incongruous appearance, but this is much heightened +when they assume, what may be called, their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page235" id="page235"></a>[pg 235]</span> +monstrous decorations. These consist of an endless variety of +carved wood masks or vizors, applied on the face, or to the +upper part of the head or forehead. Some of these resemble +human faces, furnished with hair, beards, and eye-brows; +others, the heads of birds, particularly of eagles and +quebrantahuessos, and many, the heads of land and sea-animals, +such as wolves, deer, and porpoises, and others. But, +in general, these representations much exceed the natural +size, and they are painted, and often strewed with pieces of +the foliaceous <i>mica</i>, which makes them glitter, and, serves +to augment their enormous deformity. They even exceed +this sometimes, and fix on the same part of the head large +pieces of carved work, resembling the prow of a canoe, +painted in the same manner, and projecting to a considerable +distance. So fond are they of these disguises, that I +have seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle he had +got from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether +they use these extravagant masquerade ornaments on any +particular religious occasion, or diversion, or whether they +be put on to intimidate their enemies when they go to battle, +by their monstrous appearance, or as decoys when they +go to hunt animals, is uncertain. But it may be concluded, +that, if travellers or voyagers, in an ignorant and credulous +age, when many unnatural or marvellous things were supposed +to exist, had seen a number of people decorated in +this manner, without being able to approach so near as to +be undeceived, they would readily have believed, and, in +their relations, would have attempted to make others believe, +that there existed a race of beings, partaking of the +nature of man and beast, more especially, when, besides +the heads of animals on the human shoulders, they might +have seen the whole bodies of their men-monsters covered +with quadrupeds' skins.<a id="footnotetag53" name="footnotetag53"></a><a href="#footnote53"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>The only dress amongst the people of Nootka, observed +by us, that seems peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern +mantle doubled, which, from its size, appears to be +the skin of an elk or buffalo, tanned. This they fasten on, +in the common manner, and it is so contrived, that it may +reach up, and cover the breast quite to the throat, falling, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page236" id="page236"></a>[pg 236]</span> +at the same time, almost to the heels. It is, sometimes, ingeniously +painted in different compartments; and is not +only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed +us by signs, even spears cannot pierce it, so that it may +be considered as their coat of mail, or most complete defensive +armour. Upon the same occasion, they sometimes +wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered with rows of dried +hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by leathern +thongs, covered with quills, which, when they move, make +a round rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small +bells. It seems doubtful, however, whether this part of +their garb be intended to strike terror in war, or is only to +be considered as belonging to their eccentric ornaments on +ceremonious occasions. For we saw one of their musical +entertainments, conducted by a man dressed in this sort of +cloak, with his mask on, and shaking his rattle.</p> + +<p>Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of +horror, when equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet, +when divested of them, and beheld in their common habit +and actions, they have not the least appearance of ferocity +in their countenances; and seem, on the contrary, as observed +already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic, and inactive +disposition, destitute, in some measure, of that degree of +animation and vivacity that would render them agreeable +as social beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from +being loquacious; but their gravity is, perhaps, rather a +consequence of the disposition just mentioned, than of any +conviction of its propriety, or the effect of any particular +mode of education. For, even in the greatest paroxysms +of their rage, they seem unable to express it sufficiently; +either with warmth of language, or significancy of gestures.</p> + +<p>Their orations, which are made either when engaged in +any altercation or dispute, or to explain their sentiments +publicly on other occasions, seem little more than short +sentences, or rather single words, forcibly repeated, and +constantly in one tone and degree of strength, accompanied +only with a single gesture, which they use at every sentence, +jerking their whole body a little forward, by bending +the knees, their arms hanging down by their sides at +the same time.</p> + +<p>Though there is but too much reason, from their bringing +to sale human skulls and bones, to infer that they treat +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page237" id="page237"></a>[pg 237]</span> +their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty, this circumstance +rather marks a general agreement of character with +that of almost every tribe of uncivilized man, in every age, +and in every part of the globe, than that they are to be reproached +with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. We +had no reason to judge unfavourably of their disposition in +this respect. They seem to be a docile, courteous, good-natured +people; but, notwithstanding the predominant +phlegm of their tempers, quick in resenting what they look +upon as an injury, and, like most other passionate people, +as soon forgetting it. I never found that these fits of passion +went farther than the parties immediately concerned, +the spectators not troubling themselves about the quarrel, +whether it was with any of us, or amongst their own body, +and preserving as much indifference as if they had not +known any thing about it. I have often seen one of them +rave and scold, without any of his countrymen paying the +least attention to his agitation; and when none of us could +trace the cause, or the object of his displeasure. In such +cases they never discover the least symptom of timidity, but +seem determined, at all events, to punish the insult. For, +even with respect to us, they never appeared to be under +the least apprehension of our superiority; but when any +difference happened, were just as ready to avenge the +wrong, as amongst themselves.</p> + +<p>Their other passions, especially their curiosity, appear in +some measure to lie dormant. For few expressed any desire +to see or examine things wholly unknown to them; +and which, to those truly possessed of that passion, would +have appeared astonishing. They were always contented to +procure the articles they knew and wanted, regarding every +thing else with great indifference; nor did our persons, apparel, +and manners, so differ from their own, or even the +extraordinary size and construction of our ships, seem to excite +admiration, or even engage attention.</p> + +<p>One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems +considerable. But, on the other hand, they are certainly +not wholly unsusceptible of the tender passions; if we may +judge from their being so fond of music, which is mostly of +the grave or serious, but truly pathetic sort. They keep the +exactest concert in their songs, which are often sung by +great numbers together, as those already mentioned, with +which they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page238" id="page238"></a>[pg 238]</span> +generally slow and solemn; but the music is not of that +confined sort found amongst many rude nations, for the variations +are very numerous and expressive, and the cadence +or melody powerfully soothing. Besides their full concerts, +sonnets of the same grave cast were frequently sung by single +performers, who keep time by striking the hand against +the thigh. However, the music was sometimes varied, from +its predominant solemnity of air; and there were instances +of stanzas being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and +even with a degree of humour.</p> + +<p>The only instruments of music (if such they may be called) +which I saw amongst them, were a rattle, and a small +whistle, about an inch long, incapable of any variation, +from having but one hole. They use the rattle when they +sing; but upon what occasions they use the whistle I know +not, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular +animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I +once saw one of them dressed in a wolf's skin, with the +head over his own, and imitating that animal by making +a squeaking noise with one of these whistles, which he had +in his mouth. The rattles are, for the most part, made in +the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly; and +the tail is the handle. They have others, however, that +bear rather more resemblance to a child's rattle.</p> + +<p>In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a +knavish disposition, and carry off our goods without making +any return. But, in general, it was otherwise; and we +had abundant reason to commend the fairness of their conduct. +However, their eagerness to possess iron and brass, +and, indeed, any kind of metal, was so great, that few of +them could resist the temptation to steal it, whenever an +opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, +as appears from a variety of instances in the course +of this voyage, rather than be idle, would steal any thing +that they could lay their hands upon, without ever considering, +whether it could be of use to them or no. The novelty +of the object, with them, was a sufficient motive for +their endeavouring, by any indirect means, to get possession +of it; which marked that, in such cases, they were rather +actuated by a childish curiosity, than by a dishonest +disposition, regardless of the modes of supplying real wants. +The inhabitants of Nootka, who invaded our property, cannot +have such apology made for them. They were thieves +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page239" id="page239"></a>[pg 239]</span> +in the strictest sense of the word; for they pilfered nothing +from us, but what they knew could be converted to the +purposes of private utility, and had a real value according +to their estimation of things. And it was lucky for us, that +nothing was thought valuable by them, but the single articles +of our metals. Linen, and such like things, were perfectly +secure from their depredations, and we could safely +leave them hanging out ashore all night, without watching. +The same principle which prompted our Nootka friends to +pilfer from us, it was natural to suppose, would produce a +similar conduct in their intercourse with each other. And, +accordingly, we had abundant reason to believe, that stealing +is much practised amongst them, and that it chiefly +gives rise to their quarrels, of which we saw more than one +instance.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote50" name="footnote50"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag50"> (return) </a><p>See Virginian deer. Pennant's Hist. Quad. vol. i. No. 46, and Arctic +Zool. No.6.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote51" name="footnote51"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag51"> (return) </a><p>Mr Coxe, on the authority of Mr Pallas, informs us, that the old +and +middle-aged sea-otters' skins are sold at Kiachta, by the Russians to the +Chinese, from 80 to 180 rubles a skin, that is, from 16<i>l.</i> to 20<i>l.</i> each.—See +<i>Coxe's Russian Discoveries</i>, p. 13.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote52" name="footnote52"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag52"> (return) </a><p>One of the most curious singularities observable in the natural +history +of the human species, is the supposed defect in the habit and temperature +of the bodies of the American Indians, exemplified in their having no +beards, while they are furnished with a profusion of hair on their heads. +M. de Paw, the ingenious author of Recherches sur les Americains, Dr +Robertson, in his History of America, and, in general, the writers for +whose authority we ought to have the highest deference, adopt this as an +indisputable matter of fact. May we not be permitted to request those +who espouse their sentiments, to reconsider the question, when we can +produce Captain Cook's evidence on the opposite side, at least so far as +relates to the American tribe, whom he had intercourse with at Nootka? +Nor is Captain Cook singular in his report. What he saw on the sea +coast, Captain Carver also met with amongst the American Indians far up +in the country. His words are as follow:—"From minute enquiries, and +a curious inspection, I am able to declare (however respectable I may hold +the authority of these historians in other points), that their assertions are +erroneous, and proceeding from a want of a thorough knowledge of the +customs of the Indians. After the age of puberty, their bodies, in their +natural state, are covered in the same manner as those of the Europeans. +The men, indeed, esteem a beard very unbecoming, and take great pains +to get rid of it, nor is there any ever to be perceived on their faces, except +when they grow old, and become inattentive to appearances.—The Naudowesses, +and the remote nations, pluck them out with bent pieces of hard +wood, formed into a kind of nippers, whilst those who have communication +with Europeans, procure from them wire, which they twist into a +screw or worm; applying this to the part, they press the rings together, +and with a sudden twitch, draw out all the hairs that are inclosed in +them."—<i>Carver's +Travels</i>, p. 224, 225. The remark made by Mr Marsden, who +also quotes Carver, is worth attending to, that the visor or mask of Montezuma's +armour, preserved at Brussels, has remarkably large whiskers; +and that those Americans could not have imitated this ornament, unless +nature had presented them with the model. From Captain Cook's observation +on the west coast of North America, combined with Carver's in the +inland parts of that continent, and confirmed by the Mexican vizor as +above, there seems abundant reason to agree with Mr Marsden, who thus +modestly expresses himself: "Were it not for the numerous and very respectable +authorities, from which we are assured that the natives of +America are naturally beardless, I should think that the common +opinion on +that subject had been hastily adopted; and that their appearing thus at a +mature age, was only the consequence of an early practice, similar to that +observed among the Sumatrans. Even now, I must confess, that it would +remove some small degree of doubt from my mind, could it be ascertained +that no such custom prevails."—<i>Marsden's History of Sumatra</i>, p. 39, +40.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote53" name="footnote53"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag53"> (return) </a><p>The reflection in the text may furnish the admirers of Herodotus, +in +particular, with an excellent apology for some of his wonderful tales of this +sort.—D.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION III.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Manner of Building the Homes in Nootka Sound.—Inside of +them described.—Furniture and Utensils.—Wooden Images.—Employments +of the Men.—Of the Women.—Food, Animal +and Vegetable.—Manner of preparing it.—Weapons.—Manufactures +and Mechanic Arts.—Carving and Painting.—Canoes.—Implements +for Fishing and Hunting.—Iron +Tools.—Manner of procuring that Metal.—Remarks on +their Language, and a Specimen of it.—Astronomical and +Nautical Observations made in Nootka Sound.</i></blockquote> + +<p>The two towns or villages, mentioned in the course of +my journal, seem to be the only inhabited part of the Sound. +The number of inhabitants in both might be pretty exactly +computed from the canoes that were about the ships the +second day after our arrival. They amounted to about a +hundred; which, at a very moderate allowance, must, upon +an average, have held five persons each. But as there were +scarcely any women, very old men, children, or youths +amongst them at that time, I think it will rather be rating +the number of the inhabitants of the two towns too low, if +we suppose they could be less than four times the number +of our visitors, that is, two thousand in the whole.</p> + +<p>The village at the entrance of the Sound stands on the +side of a rising ground, which has a pretty steep ascent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page240" id="page240"></a>[pg 240]</span> +from the beach to the verge of the wood, in which space it +is situated.</p> + +<p>The houses are disposed in three ranges or rows, rising +gradually behind each other, the largest being that in front, +and the others less, besides a few straggling, or single ones, +at each end. These ranges are interrupted or disjoined at +irregular distances, by narrow paths, or lanes, that pass upward; +but those which run in the direction of the houses, +between the rows, are much broader. Though there be +some appearance of regularity in this disposition, there is +none in the single houses, for each of the divisions, made by +the paths, may be considered either as one house, or as +many, there being no regular or complete separation, either +without or within, to distinguish them by. They are built +of very long and broad planks<a id="footnotetag54" name="footnotetag54"></a><a href="#footnote54"><sup>1</sup></a>, resting upon the edges of +each other, fastened or tied by withes of pine bark here +and there, and have only slender posts, or rather poles, at +considerable distances on the outside, to which they also +are tied, but within are some larger poles placed aslant. +The height of the sides and ends of these habitations, is seven +or eight feet; but the back part is a little higher, by +which means, the planks that compose the roof slant forward, +and are laid on loose, so as to be moved about, either +to be put close to exclude the rain, or, in fair weather, to +be separated, to let in the light and carry out the smoke. +They are, however, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, +and constructed with little care or ingenuity. For, though +the side-planks be made to fit pretty closely in some places, +in others they are quite open, and there are no regular doors +into them, the only way of entrance being either by a hole, +where the unequal length of the planks has accidentally left +an opening, or, in some cases, the planks are made to pass +a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two feet asunder, +and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes, +or windows, in the sides of the houses to look out at; but +without any regularity of shape or disposition; and these +have bits of mat hung before them, to prevent the rain getting +in.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page241" id="page241"></a>[pg 241]</span> + +<p>On the inside, one may frequently see from one end to +the other of these ranges of building without interruption. +For though, in general, there be the rudiments, or rather +vestiges, of separations on each side, for the accommodation +of different families, they are such as do not intercept +the sight; and often consist of no more than pieces of +plank, running from the side toward the middle of the +house; so that, if they were complete, the whole might be +compared to a long stable, with a double range of stalls, +and a broad passage in the middle. Close to the sides, in +each of these parts, is a little bench of boards, raised five +or six inches higher than the rest of the floor, and covered +with mats on which the family sit and sleep. These benches +are commonly seven or eight feet long, and four or five +broad. In the middle of the floor, between them, is the +fire-place, which has neither hearth nor chimney. In one +house, which was in the end of a middle range, almost quite +separated from the rest by a high close partition, and the +most regular, as to design, of any that I saw, there were four +of these benches, each of which held a single family, at a +corner, but without any separation by boards, and the middle +part of the house appeared common to them all.</p> + +<p>Their furniture consists chiefly of a great number of +chests and boxes of all sizes, which are generally piled upon +each other, close to the sides or ends of the house, and +contain their spare garments, skins, masks, and other things +which they set a value upon. Some of these are double, +or one covers the other as a lid, others have a lid fastened +with thongs, and some of the very large ones have a square +hole, or scuttle, cut in the upper part, by which the things +are put in and taken out. They are often painted black, +studded with the teeth of different animals, or carved with +a kind of freeze-work, and figures of birds or animals, as +decorations. Their other domestic utensils are mostly +square and oblong pails or buckets to hold water and other +things, round wooden cups and bowls, and small shallow +wooden troughs, about two feet long, out of which they eat +their food, and baskets of twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their +fishing implements, and other things also, lie or hang up in +different parts of the house, but without the least order, so +that the whole is a complete scene of confusion; and the +only places that do not partake of this confusion are the +sleeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page242" id="page242"></a>[pg 242]</span> +which are also cleaner, or of a finer sort, than those they +commonly have to sit on in their boats.</p> + +<p>The nastiness and stench of their houses are, however, +at least equal to the confusion. For as they dry their fish +within doors, they also gut them there, which, with their +bones and fragments, thrown down at meals, and the addition +of other sorts of filth, lie every where in heaps, and +are, I believe, never carried away till it becomes troublesome, +from their size, to walk over them. In a word, +their houses are as filthy as hog-sties; every thing in and +about them stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke.</p> + +<p>But, amidst all the filth and confusion that are found +in the houses, many of them are decorated with images. +These are nothing more than the trunks of very large trees, +four or five feet high, set up singly, or by pairs, at the upper +end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human +face; the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and +variously painted; so that the whole is a truly monstrous +figure. The general name of these images is <i>Klumma</i>; and +the names of two particular ones, which stood abreast of +each other, three or four feet asunder, in one of the houses, +were <i>Natchkoa</i> and <i>Matseeta</i>. Mr Webber's view of the inside +of a Nootka house, in which these images are represented, +conveys a more perfect idea of them than any description. +A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part, +hung before them, which the natives were not willing, at +all times, to remove; and when they did unveil them, they +seemed to speak of them in a very mysterious manner. It +should seem, that they are at times accustomed to make +offerings to them; if we can draw this inference from their +desiring us, as we interpreted their signs, to give something +to these images, when they drew aside the mats that +covered them.<a id="footnotetag55" name="footnotetag55"></a><a href="#footnote55"><sup>2</sup></a> It was natural, from these circumstances, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page243" id="page243"></a>[pg 243]</span> +for us to think, that they were representatives of their +gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object: +and yet we had proofs of the little real estimation they +were in; for, with a small quantity of iron or brass, I could +have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in +the place. I did not see one that was not offered to me; +and I actually got two or three of the very smallest sort.</p> + +<p>The chief employment of the men seems to be that of +fishing, and killing land or sea animals for the sustenance +of their families; for we saw few of them doing any thing +in the houses; whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing +their flaxen or woollen garments, and in preparing +the sardines for drying; which they also carry up +from the beach in twig-baskets, after the men have brought +them in their canoes. The women are also sent in the +small canoes to gather muscles, and other shell-fish, and +perhaps on some other occasions; for they manage these +with as much dexterity as the men; who, when in the canoes +with them, seem to pay little attention to their sex, +by offering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle; +nor indeed do they treat them with any particular respect +or tenderness in other situations. The young men appeared +to be the most indolent or idle set in this community; +for they were either sitting about, in scattered companies, +to bask themselves in the sun, or lay wallowing in the sand +upon the beach, like a number of hogs, for the same purpose, +without any covering. But this disregard of decency +was confined to the men. The women were always properly +clothed, and behaved with the utmost propriety; justly +deserving all commendation for a bashfulness and modesty +becoming their sex; but more meritorious in them, as the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page244" id="page244"></a>[pg 244]</span> +men seem to have no sense of shame. It is impossible, +however, that we should have been able to observe the exact +mode of their domestic life and employments, from a +single visit (as the first was quite transitory) of a few hours. +For it may be easily supposed, that, on such an occasion, +most of the labour of all the inhabitants of the village +would cease upon our arrival, and an interruption be given +even to the usual manner of appearing in their houses, during +their more remiss or sociable hours, when left to +themselves. We were much better enabled to form some +judgment of their disposition, and, in some measure, even +of their method of living, from the frequent visits so many +of them paid us at our ships in their canoes; in which, it +would seem, they spend a great deal of time, at least in +the summer season. For we observed, that they not only +eat and sleep frequently in them, but strip off their clothes +and lay themselves along to bask in the sun, in the same +manner as we had seen practised at their village. Their +canoes of the larger sort are, indeed, sufficiently spacious +for that purpose, and perfectly dry; so that, under shelter +of a skin, they are, except in rainy weather, much more +comfortable habitations than their houses.</p> + +<p>Though their food, strictly speaking, may be said to +consist of every thing animal or vegetable that they can +procure, the quantity of the latter bears an exceeding small +proportion to that of the former. Their greatest reliance +seems to be upon the sea, as affording fish, muscles, and +smaller shell-fish, and sea-animals. Of the first, the principal +are herrings and sardines; the two species of bream, +formerly mentioned, and small cod. But the herrings and +sardines are not only eaten fresh, in their season, but likewise +serve as stores, which, after being dried and smoked, +are preserved, by being sewed up in mats, so as to form +large bales, three or four feet square. It seems that the +herrings also supply them with another grand resource for +food; which is a vast quantity of roe, very curiously prepared. +It is strewed upon, or as it were incrustated about +small branches of the Canadian pine. They also prepare +it upon a long narrow sea-grass, which grows plentifully +upon the rocks, under water. This <i>caviare</i>, if it may be so +called, is kept in baskets or bags of mat, and used occasionally, +being first dipped in water. It may be considered +as the winter bread of these people, and has no +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page245" id="page245"></a>[pg 245]</span> +disagreeable taste. They also eat the roe of some other fish, which, +from the size of its grains, must be very large; but it has +a rancid taste and smell. It does not appear that they prepare +any other fish in this manner, to preserve them for +any length of time. For though they split and dry a few +of the bream and <i>chimæræ</i>, which are pretty plentiful, they +do not smoke them as the herrings and sardines.</p> + +<p>The next article, on which they seem to depend for a +large proportion of their food, is the large muscle; great +abundance of which are found in the Sound. These are +roasted in their shells, then stuck upon long wooden-skewers, +and taken off occasionally as wanted; being eat without +any other preparation, though they often dip them in +oil as a sauce. The other marine productions, such as the +smaller shell-fish, though they contribute to increase the +general stock, are by no means to be looked upon as a +standing or material article of their food, when compared +to those just mentioned.</p> + +<p>Of the sea-animals, the most common that we saw in +use amongst them as food is the porpoise; the fat or rind +of which, as well as the flesh, they cut in large pieces, and +having dried them, as they do the herrings, eat them without +any farther preparation. They also prepare a sort of +broth from this animal, in its fresh state, in a singular manner, +putting pieces of it in a square wooden vessel or bucket, +with water, and then throwing heated stones into it. +This operation they repeat till they think the contents are +sufficiently stewed or seethed. They put in the fresh, and +take out the other stones, with a cleft stick, which serves +as tongs; the vessel being always placed near the fire for +that purpose. This is a pretty common dish amongst them, +and, from its appearance, seems to be strong, nourishing +food. The oil which they procure from these and other +sea-animals, is also used by them in great quantities; both +supping it alone, with a large scoop or spoon made of +horn, or mixing it with other food, as sauce.</p> + +<p>It may also be presumed, that they feed upon other sea-animals, +such as seals, sea-otters, and whales; not only +from the skins of the two first being frequent amongst +them, but from the great number of implements of all +sorts intended to destroy these different animals; which +clearly points out their dependence upon them; though +perhaps they do not catch them in great plenty, at all +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page246" id="page246"></a>[pg 246]</span> +seasons; which seemed to be the case while we lay there, as +no great number of fresh skins, or pieces of the flesh, were +seen.</p> + +<p>The same might, perhaps, be said of the land-animals, +which, though doubtless the natives sometimes kill them, +appeared to be scarce at this time; as we did not see a +single piece of the flesh belonging to any of them; and +though their skins be in tolerable plenty, it is probable that +many of these are procured by traffic from other tribes. +Upon the whole, it seems plain, from a variety of circumstances, +that these people procure almost all their animal +food from the sea, if we except a few birds, of which the +gulls or sea-fowl, which they shoot with their arrows, are +the most material.</p> + +<p>As the Canadian pine-branches and sea-grass, on which +the fish roe is strewed, may be considered as their only +winter vegetables; so, as the spring advances, they make +use of several others as they come in season. The most +common of these, which we observed, were two sorts of liliaceous +roots, one simply tunicated, the other granulated +upon its surface, called <i>mahkatte</i> and <i>koohquoppa</i>, which +have a mild sweetish taste, and are mucilaginous, and eaten +raw. The next, which they have in great quantities, is a +root called <i>aheita</i>, resembling, in taste, our liquorice; and +another fern root, whose leaves were not yet disclosed. +They also eat, raw, another small, sweetish, insipid root, +about the thickness of <i>sarsaparilla</i>; but we were ignorant +of the plant to which it belongs; and also of another root, +which is very large and palmated, which we saw them dig +tip near the Village, and afterward eat it. It is also probable, +that, as the season advances, they have many others, +which we did not see. For, though there be no appearance +of cultivation amongst them, there are great quantities of +alder, gooseberry, and currant bushes, whose fruits they +may eat in their natural state, as we have seen them eat +the leaves of the last, and of the lilies, just as they were +plucked from the plant. It must, however, be observed, +that one of the conditions which they seem to require, in +all food, is, that it should be of the bland, or less acrid +kind; for they would not eat the leek or garlic, though +they brought vast quantities to sell, when they understood +we were fond of it. Indeed, they seemed to have no relish +for any of our food; and when offered spirituous liquors, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page247" id="page247"></a>[pg 247]</span> +they rejected them as something unnatural and disgusting +to the palate.</p> + +<p>Though they sometimes eat small marine animals in +their fresh state, raw, it is their common practice to roast +or broil their food; for they are quite ignorant of our method +of boiling; unless we allow that of preparing their +porpoise broth is such; and indeed their vessels being all +of wood, they are quite insufficient for this purpose.</p> + +<p>Their manner of eating is exactly consonant to the nastiness +of their houses and persons; for the troughs and platters, +in which they put their food, appear never to have +been washed from the time they were first made, and the +dirty remains of a former meal are only sweeped away by +the succeeding one. They also tear every thing solid, or +tough, to pieces, with their hands and teeth; for, though +they make use of their knives to cut off the larger portions, +they have not, as yet, thought of reducing these to +smaller pieces and mouthfuls by the same means, though +obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they seem to +have no idea of cleanliness; for they eat the roots which +they dig from the ground, without so much as shaking off +the soil that adheres to them.</p> + +<p>We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals; +for we have seen them eat at all hours in their canoes. +And yet, from seeing several messes of the porpoise broth +preparing toward noon, when we visited the village, I +should suspect that they make a principal meal about that +time.</p> + +<p>Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short +truncheons of bone, somewhat like the <i>patoo patoo</i> of New +Zealand, and a small pick-axe, not unlike the common +American <i>tomahawk</i>. The spear has generally a long point, +made of bone. Some of the arrows are pointed with iron; +but most commonly their points were of indented bone. +The tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed +at one end, and the other end fixed into a handle of +wood. This handle resembles the head and neck of the +human figure; and the stone is fixed in the mouth, so as +to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the resemblance +still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. +This weapon they call <i>taaweesh</i>, or <i>tsuskeeah</i>. They have +another stone weapon called <i>seeaik</i>, nine inches or a foot +long, with a square point.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page248" id="page248"></a>[pg 248]</span> + +<p>From the number of stone weapons and others, we might +almost conclude, that it is their custom to engage in close +fight; and we had too convincing proofs that their wars +are both frequent and bloody, from the vast number of +human sculls which they brought to sell.</p> + +<p>Their manufactures and mechanic arts are far more extensive +and ingenious, whether we regard the design or +the execution, than could have been expected from the +natural disposition of the people, and the little progress +that civilization has made amongst them in other respects. +The flaxen and woollen garments, with which they cover +themselves, must necessarily engage their first care; and +are the most material of those that can be racked under +the head of manufactures. The former of these are made +of the bark of a pine-tree, beat into a hempen state. It +is not spun, but, after being properly prepared, is spread +upon a stick, which is fastened across to two others that +stand upright. It is disposed in such a manner, that the +manufacturer, who sits on her hams at this simple machine, +knots it across with small plaited threads, at the distance +of half an inch from each other. Though, by this method, +it be not so close or firm as cloth that is woven, the +bunches between the knots make it sufficiently impervious +to the air, by filling the interstices; and it has the additional +advantage of being softer and more pliable. The +woollen garments, though probably manufactured in the +same manner, have the strongest resemblance to woven +cloth. But the various figures, which are very artificially +inserted in them, destroy the supposition of their being +wrought in a loom; it being extremely unlikely that these +people should be so dexterous as to be able to finish such a +complex work, unless immediately by their hands. They +are of different degrees of fineness; some resembling our +coarsest rugs or blankets; and others almost equal to our +finest sorts, or even softer, and certainly warmer. The +wool, of which they are made, seems to be taken from different +animals, as the fox and brown <i>lynx</i>; the last of +which is by far the finest sort, and, in its natural state, differs +little from the colour of our coarser wools; but the +hair, with which the animal is also covered, being intermixed, +its appearance, when wrought, is somewhat different. +The ornamental parts or figures in these garments, +which are disposed with great taste, are commonly of a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page249" id="page249"></a>[pg 249]</span> +different colour, being dyed, chiefly either of a deep brown +or of a yellow; the last of which, when it is new, equals +the best in our carpets as to brightness.</p> + +<p>To their taste or design in working figures upon their +garments, corresponds their fondness for carving in every +thing they make of wood. Nothing is without a kind of +freeze-work, or the figure of some animal upon it; but the +most general representation is that of the human face, +which is often cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous +figures mentioned before; and even upon their stone and +their bone weapons. The general design of all these things +is perfectly sufficient to convey a knowledge of the object +they are intended to represent; but the carving is not executed +with the nicety that a dexterous artist would bestow +even upon an indifferent design. The same, however, cannot +be said of many of the human masks and heads; where +they shew themselves to be ingenious sculptors. They not +only preserve, with great exactness, the general character +of their own faces, but finish the more minute parts with +a degree of accuracy in proportion, and neatness in execution. +The strong propensity of this people to works of +this sort, is remarkable, in a vast variety of particulars. +Small whole human figures; representations of birds, fish, +and land and sea-animals; models of their household utensils +and of their canoes, were found amongst them in great +abundance.</p> + +<p>The imitative arts being nearly allied, no wonder that, +to their skill in working figures in their garments, and carving +them in wood, they should add that of drawing them +in colours. We have sometimes seen the whole process of +their whale-fishery painted on the caps they wear. This, +though rudely executed, serves, at least, to shew, that, +though there be no appearance of the knowledge of letters +amongst them, they have some notion of a method of commemorating +and representing actions in a lasting way, independently +of what may be recorded in their songs and traditions. +They have also other figures painted on some of +their things; but it is doubtful if they ought to be considered +as symbols, that have certain established significations, +or only the mere creation of fancy and caprice.</p> + +<p>Their canoes are of a simple structure; but, to appearance, +well calculated for every useful purpose. Even the +largest, which carry twenty people or more, are formed of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page250" id="page250"></a>[pg 250]</span> +one tree. Many of them are forty feet long, seven broad, +and about three deep. From the middle, toward each end, +they become gradually narrower, the after-part, or stern, +ending abruptly or perpendicularly, with a small knob on +the top; but the fore-part is lengthened out, stretching +forward and upward, ending in a notched point or prow, +considerably higher than the sides of the canoe, which run +nearly in a straight line. For the most part they are without +any ornament; but some have a little carving, and are +decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface, like studs, +as is their practice on their masks and weapons. A few +have, likewise, a kind of additional head or prow, like a +large cut-water, which is painted with the figure of some +animal. They have no seats, nor any other supporters, on +the inside, than several round sticks, little thicker than a +cane, placed across, at mid depth. They are very light, +and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly, +without an out-rigger, which none of them have; a remarkable +distinction between the navigation of all the +American nations and that of the southern parts of the +East Indies, and the islands in the Pacific Ocean. Their +paddles are small and light; the shape, in some measure, +resembling that of a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, +broadest in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the +shaft, the whole being about five feet long. They have acquired +great dexterity in managing these paddles, by constant +use; for sails are no part of their art of navigation.</p> + +<p>Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are +both ingeniously contrived, and well made, are nets, hooks +and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an instrument like an oar. +This last is about twenty feet long, four or five inches +broad, and about half an inch thick. Each edge, for about +two-thirds of its length, (the other third being its handle,) +is set with sharp bone-teeth, about two inches long. Herrings +and sardines, and such other small fish as come in +shoals, are attacked with this instrument; which is struck +into the shoal, and the fish are caught either upon or between +the teeth. Their hooks are made of bone and wood, +and rather inartificially; but the harpoon, with which they +strike the whales and lesser sea-animals, shew a great reach +of contrivance. It is composed of a piece of bone, cut into +two barbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a large +muscle-shell, in which is the point of the instrument. To +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page251" id="page251"></a>[pg 251]</span> +this is fastened about two or three fathoms of rope; and +to throw this harpoon, they use a shaft of about twelve or +fifteen feet long, to which the line or rope is made fast; +and to one end of which the harpoon is fixed, so as to separate +from the shaft, and leave it floating upon the water +as a buoy, when the animal darts away with the harpoon.</p> + +<p>We can say nothing as to the manner of their catching +or killing land-animals, unless we may suppose that they +shoot the smaller sorts with their arrows, and engage bears, +or wolves and foxes, with their spears. They have, indeed, +several nets, which are probably applied to that purpose;<a id="footnotetag56" name="footnotetag56"></a><a href="#footnote56"><sup>3</sup></a> +as they frequently threw them over their heads, to shew +their use, when they brought them to us for sale. They +also, sometimes, decoy animals, by covering themselves +with a skin, and running about upon all-fours, which they +do very nimbly, as appeared from the specimens of their +skill, which they exhibited to us, making a kind of noise, +or neighing, at the same time; and on these occasions, +the masks or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads +of the different animals, are put on.</p> + +<p>As to the materials, of which they make their various +articles, it is to be observed, that every thing of the rope +kind is formed either from thongs of skins and sinews of +animals, or from the same flaxen substance of which their +mantles are manufactured. The sinews often appeared to +be of such a length, that it might be presumed they could +be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may +be said of the bones of which they made their weapons already +mentioned; such as their bark-beating instruments, +the points of their spears, and the barbs of their harpoons.</p> + +<p>Their great dexterity in works of wood, may, in some +measure, be ascribed to the assistance they receive from +iron tools. For, as far as we know, they use no other; at +least we saw only one chisel of bone. And though originally +their tools must have been of different materials, it is +not improbable that many of their improvements have +been made since they acquired a knowledge of that metal, +which now is universally used in their various wooden +works. The chisel and the knife are the only forms, as far +as we saw, that iron assumes amongst them. The chisel is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page252" id="page252"></a>[pg 252]</span> +a long flat piece, filled into a handle of wood. A stone +serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher. +I have seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten +inches long, and three or four inches broad, but, in general, +they were smaller. The knives are of various sizes; +some very large; and their blades are crooked, somewhat +like our pruning-knife, but the edge is on the back or convex +part. Most of them that we saw were about the breadth +and thickness of an iron-hoop, and their singular form +marks that they are not of European make. Probably they +are imitations of their own original instruments, used for +the same purposes. They sharpen these iron tools upon a +coarse slate whetstone, and likewise keep the whole instrument +constantly bright.</p> + +<p>Iron, which they call <i>seekemaile</i>, (which name they also +give to tin and all white metals,) being familiar to these +people, it was very natural for us to speculate about the +mode of its being conveyed to them. Upon our arrival in +the Sound, they immediately discovered a knowledge of +traffic, and an inclination for it; and we were convinced +afterward, that they had not received this knowledge from +a cursory interview with any strangers, but, from their method, +it seemed to be an established practice, of which they +were fond, and in which they were also well skilled. With +whom they carry on this traffic, may, perhaps, admit of +some doubt. For though we found amongst them things +doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived, +from some civilized nation, such as iron and brass, it by +no means appears that they receive them immediately from +these nations. For we never observed the least sign of +their having seen ships like ours before, nor of their having +traded with such people. Many circumstances serve +to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest +in their enquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to +settle amongst them, and if we came as friends; signifying, +at the same time, that they gave the wood and water +freely, from friendship. This not only proves, that they +considered the place as entirely their property, without +fearing any superiority; but the enquiry would have been +an unnatural one, on a supposition that any ships had been +here before; had trafficked, and supplied themselves with +wood and water; and had then departed; for, in that case, +they might reasonably expect we would do the same. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page253" id="page253"></a>[pg 253]</span> +They, indeed, expressed no marks of surprise at seeing our +ships. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to +their natural indolence of temper, and want of curiosity. +Nor were they even startled at the report of a musquet; +till one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible, +that their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide-dresses, +one of our gentlemen shot a musquet-ball through +one of them, folded six times. At this they were so much +staggered, that they plainly discovered their ignorance of +the effect of fire-arms. This was very often confirmed afterward, +when we used them at their village and other +places to shoot birds, the manner of which plainly confounded +them; and our explanations of the use of shot +and ball were received with the most significant marks of +their having no previous ideas on this matter.</p> + +<p>Some account of a Spanish voyage to this coast, in 1774, +or 1775, had reached England before I sailed; but the +foregoing circumstances sufficiently prove that these ships +had not been at Nootka.<a id="footnotetag57" name="footnotetag57"></a><a href="#footnote57"><sup>4</sup></a> Besides this, it was evident, that +iron was too common here; was in too many hands; and +the uses of it were too well known, for them to have had +the first knowledge of it so very lately; or indeed at any +earlier period, by an accidental supply from a ship. Doubtless, +from the general use they make of this metal, it maybe +supposed to come from some constant source, by way +of traffic, and that not of a very late date; for they are as +dexterous in using their tools as the longest practice can +make them. The most probable way, therefore, by which +we can suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for +it with other Indian tribes, who either have immediate +communication with European settlements upon that continent, +or receive it, perhaps, through several intermediate +nations. The same might be said of the brass and copper +found amongst them.</p> + +<p>Whether these things be introduced by way of Hudson's +Bay and Canada, from the Indians, who deal with our traders, +and so successively across from one tribe to the other; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page254" id="page254"></a>[pg 254]</span> +or whether they be brought from the north-western parts +of Mexico in the same manner, perhaps cannot be easily +determined. But it should seem, that not only the rude +materials, but some articles in their manfactured state, find +their way hither. The brass ornaments for noses, in particular, +are so neatly made, that I am doubtful whether the +Indians are capable of fabricating them. The materials, +certainly, are European; as no American tribes have been +found, who knew the method of making brass; though +copper has been commonly met with, and, from its softness, +might be fashioned into any shape, and also polished. +If our traders to Hudson's Bay and Canada do not +use such articles in their traffic with the natives, they must +have been introduced at Nootka from the quarter of Mexico, +from whence, no doubt, the two silver table-spoons, +met with here, were originally derived. It is most probable, +however, that the Spaniards are not such eager traders, +nor have formed such extensive connections with the +tribes north of Mexico, as to supply them with quantities +of iron, from which they can spare so much to the people +here.<a id="footnotetag58" name="footnotetag58"></a><a href="#footnote58"><sup>5</sup></a></p> + +<p>Of the political and religious institutions established +amongst them, it cannot be supposed that we should learn +much. This we could observe, that there are such men as +chiefs, who are distinguished by the name or title of <i>Acweek</i>, +and to whom the others are, in some measure, subordinate. +But I should guess, the authority of each of these +great men extends no farther than the family to which he +belongs, and who own him as their head. These <i>Acweeks</i> +were not always elderly men; from which I concluded +that this title came to them by inheritance.</p> + +<p>I saw nothing that could give the least insight into their +notions of religion, besides the figures before mentioned, +called by them <i>Klumma</i>. Most probably these were idols; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page255" id="page255"></a>[pg 255]</span> +but as they frequently mentioned the word <i>acweek</i>, when +they spoke of them, we may, perhaps, be authorised to suppose, +that they are the images of some of their ancestors, +whom they venerate as divinities. But all this is mere conjecture; +for we saw no act of religious homage paid to +them; nor could we gain any information, as we had learned +little more of their language than to ask the names of +things, without being able to hold any conversation with +the natives, that might instruct us as to their institutions +or traditions.</p> + +<p>In drawing up the preceding account of the people of +this Sound, I have occasionally blended Mr Anderson's +observations with my own; but I owe every thing to him. +that relates to their language; and the following remarks +are in his own words.</p> + +<p>"Their language is by no means harsh or disagreeable, +farther than proceeds from their using the <i>k</i> and <i>h</i> with +more force, or pronouncing them with less softness than +we do; and, upon the whole, it abounds rather with what +we may call labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. +The simple sounds, which we have not heard them use, +and which, consequently, may be reckoned rare, or wanting +in their language, are those represented by the letters +<i>b, d, f, g, r,</i> and <i>v</i>. But, on the other hand, they have one, +which is very frequent, and not used by us. It is formed, +in a particular manner, by clashing the tongue partly +against the roof of the mouth with considerable force, and +may be compared to a very coarse or harsh method of lisping. +It is difficult to represent this sound by any composition +of our letters, unless somehow from <i>lszthl</i>. This is one +of their most usual terminations, though we sometimes +found it in the beginning of words. The next most general +termination is composed of <i>tl</i>; and many words end +with <i>z</i> and <i>ss</i>. A specimen or two of each of these is here +put down:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Opulszthl</i>,</td><td align="left">The sun.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Onulszthl</i>,</td><td align="left">The moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Kahsheetl</i>,</td><td align="left">Dead.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Teeshcheetl</i>,</td><td align="left">To throw a stone.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Kooomitz</i>,</td><td align="left">A human scull.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Quahmiss</i>,</td><td align="left">Fish roe.</td></tr> +</table> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page256" id="page256"></a>[pg 256]</span> + +<p>"They seem to take so great a latitude in their mode of +speaking, that I have sometimes observed four or five different +terminations of the same word. This is a circumstance +very puzzling at first to a stranger, and marks a +great imperfection in their language.</p> + +<p>"As to the composition of it, we can say very little; having +been scarcely able to distinguish the several parts of +speech. It can only be inferred, from their method of +speaking, which is very slow and distinct, that it has few +prepositions or conjunctions; and, as far as we could discover, +is destitute of even a single interjection, to express +admiration or surprise. From its having few conjunctions, +it may be conceived, that these being thought unnecessary, +as being understood, each single word with them will +also express a great deal, or comprehend several simple +ideas; which seems to be the case. But, for the same reason, +the language will be defective in other respects; not +having words to distinguish or express differences which +really exist, and hence not sufficiently copious. This was +observed to be the case in many instances, particularly +with respect to the names of animals. The relation or affinity +it may bear to other languages, either on this or on +the Asiatic continent, I have not been able sufficiently to +trace for want of proper specimens to compare it with, +except those of the Esquimaux and Indians about Hudson's +Bay; to neither of which it bears the least resemblance. +On the other hand, from the few Mexican words +I have been able to procure, there is the most obvious +agreement, in the very frequent terminations of the words +in <i>l, tl</i>, or <i>z</i>, throughout the language."<a id="footnotetag59" name="footnotetag59"></a><a href="#footnote59"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + +<p>The large vocabulary of the Nootka language, collected +by Mr Anderson, shall be reserved for another place,<a id="footnotetag60" name="footnotetag60"></a><a href="#footnote60"><sup>7</sup></a> +as its insertion here would too much interrupt our narration. +At present I only select their numerals, for the satisfaction +of such of our readers as love to compare those of +different nations in different parts of the world:</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page257" id="page257"></a>[pg 257]</span> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Tsawack</i>,</td><td align="left">One.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Akkla</i>,</td><td align="left">Two.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Katsitsa</i>,</td><td align="left">Three.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Mo</i>, or <i>Moo</i>,</td><td align="left">Four.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Sochah</i>,</td><td align="left">Five.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Nofpo</i>,</td><td align="left">Six.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Atstepoo</i>,</td><td align="left">Seven.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Atlaquolthl</i>,</td><td align="left">Eight.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Tsawaquulthl</i>,</td><td align="left">Nine.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><i>Haeeoo</i>,</td><td align="left">Ten.</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Were I to affix a name to the people of Nootka, as a +distinct nation, I would call them <i>Wakashians</i>; from the +word <i>wakash</i>, which was very frequently in their mouths. +It seemed to express applause, approbation, and friendship. +For when they appeared to be satisfied, or well pleased +with any thing they saw, or any incident that happened, +they would, with one voice, call out, <i>wakash! wakash!</i> +I shall take my leave of them, with remarking, that, differing +so essentially, as they certainly do, in their persons, +their customs, and language, from the inhabitants of the +islands in the Pacific Ocean, we cannot suppose their respective +progenitors to have been united in the same tribe, +or to have had any intimate connection, when they emigrated +from their original settlements, into the places +where we now find their descendants.</p> + +<p>My account of the transactions in Nootka Sound would +be imperfect, without adding the astronomical and nautical +observations made by us, while the ships were in that +station.</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center"><i>Latitude.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The latitude of the</td><td align="left">Sun</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">49° 36' 1", 15"'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">observatory, by</td><td align="left">Stars</td><td align="left">South</td><td align="left">49 36 8, 36</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">North</td><td align="left">49 36 10, 30</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">________________</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The mean of these means</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">49 36 6, 47 north.</td></tr> +</table> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page258" id="page258"></a>[pg 258]</span> + +<br /> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center"><i>Longitude.</i></td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Twenty sets taken on the</td><td align="left">233° 26' 18", 7"'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> 21st and 23d of March.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The longitude, by</td><td align="left">Ninety-three taken</td><td align="left">233 18 6, 6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> lunar observations.</td><td align="left">at the observatory</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Twenty-four taken on the</td><td align="left">233 7 16, 7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> 1st, 2d, and 3d of May.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">_________________</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The mean of these means</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">233 17 14, 0 East.</td></tr> +</table> + +<br /> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">But by reducing each set, taken before we arrived in the Sound,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> and after we left it, by the time-keeper</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> and adding them up with those made on the spot,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> the mean of the 137 sets, will be</td><td align="right">233° 17' 30", 5"'</td></tr> +</table> + +<br /> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">Longitude by the time-keeper</td><td align="left">Greenwich rate</td><td align="left">235° 46' 51", 0"'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Ulietea rate</td><td align="left">333 59 24, 0</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>From the results of the last fifteen days observations of +equal altitudes of the sun, the daily rate of the time-keeper +was losing, on mean time, 7"; and on the 16th of April, +she was too slow for mean time by 16<sup>h</sup> 0<sup>m</sup> 58", 45. There +was found an irregularity in her rate greater than at any +time before. It was thought proper to reject the first five +days, as the rate in them differed so much from that of the +fifteen following; and even in these, each day differed +from another more than usual.</p> + +<h4>Variation of the Compass.</h4> + +<table summary="" align="center" cellspacing="10"> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left">A.M.</td><td align="left">Observatory</td><td align="left">15° 57' 48-1/2"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">April 4.</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">15° 49' 25" East.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left"> P.M.</td><td align="left">Mean of four Needles</td><td align="left">15 41 2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left">A.M.</td><td align="left">On board the ship</td><td align="left">9° 50 49</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">19 44 47-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left">P.M.</td><td align="left">Mean of four Needles</td><td align="left">19 38 46</td></tr> +</table> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page259" id="page259"></a>[pg 259]</span> + +<p>The variation found on board the ship ought to be taken +for the true one; not only as it agreed with what we +observed at sea, but because it was found that there was +something ashore that had a considerable effect upon the +compasses; in some places more than others. At one spot, +on the west point of the Sound, the needle was attracted +113/4 points from its proper direction.</p> + +<h4>Inclination of the Dipping Needle.</h4> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="center">April 5th.</td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">71° 26' 22-1/2"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">On board with</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">71° 40' 22-1/2"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">balanced needle.</td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">71 54 22-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">The same needle</td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">72 3 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">at the</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">70 0 0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">observatory.</td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">71 56 15</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">71 58 20</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">18th ditto</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">72 7 15</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">72 16 10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">5th. Spare needle</td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">72 32 30</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">at the</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">72 49 15</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">observatory</td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">73 6 0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">72 55 0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">18th ditto</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">73 11 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">73 28 30</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">22d. Spare</td><td align="left">Marked</td><td align="left">End North</td><td align="left">73 28 38</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">needle on</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">73 11 0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">board</td><td align="left">Unmarked</td><td align="left">and dipping</td><td align="left">72 53 30</td></tr> +</table> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">Hence the mean dip, with both needles, on shore, was</td><td align="left">72 32 3-1/4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">On board</td><td align="left">72 25 45-1/4</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>This is as near as can be expected; and shews, that +whatever it was that affected the compasses, whether on +board or ashore, it had no effect upon the dipping needles.</p> + +<p><i>Tides.</i></p> + +<p>It is high water on the days of the new and full moon +at 12<sup>h</sup> 20<sup>m</sup>. The perpendicular rise and fall, eight feet nine +inches; which is to be understood of the day-tides, and +those which happen two or three days after the full and +new moon. The night-tides, at this time, rise near two +feet higher. This was very conspicuous during the spring-tide +of the full moon, which happened soon after our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page260" id="page260"></a>[pg 260]</span> +arrival; and it was obvious, that it would be the same in +those of the new moon, though we did not remain here +long enough to see the whole of its effect.</p> + +<p>Some circumstances, that occurred daily, relating to this, +deserve particular notice. In the cove, where we got wood +and water, was a great deal of drift wood thrown ashore; +a part of which we had to remove to come at the water. +It often happened, that large pieces of trees, which we had +removed in the day out of the reach of the then high water, +were found, the next morning, floated again in our +way; and all our spouts, for conveying down the water, +thrown out of their places, which were immoveable during +the day-tides. We also found, that wood, which we had +split up for fuel, and had deposited beyond the reach of +the day-tide, floated away during the night. Some of these +circumstances happened every night or morning, for three +or four days in the height of the spring-tides; during which +time we were obliged to attend every morning-tide, to remove +the large logs out of the way of watering.</p> + +<p>I cannot say whether the flood-tide falls into the Sound +from the north-west, south-west, or south-east. I think it +does not come from the last quarter; but this is only conjecture, +founded upon the following observations: The +south-east gales, which we had in the Sound, were so far +from increasing the rise of the tide, that they rather diminished +it; which would hardly have happened, if the flood +and wind had been in the same direction.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote54" name="footnote54"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag54"> (return) </a><p>The habitations of the natives, more to the north upon this coast, +where Behring's people landed in 1741, seem to resemble those of Nootka. +Muller describes them thus: "Ces cabanes étoient de bois revetu +de planches bien unies, et même enchainées en quelques endroits."—Muller, +<i>Découvertes</i>, p. 255.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote55" name="footnote55"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag55"> (return) </a><p>It should seem, that Mr Webber was obliged to repeat his offerings +pretty frequently before he could be permitted to finish his drawing of +these images. The following account is in his own words: "After having +made a general view of their habitations, I sought for an inside, +which might furnish me with sufficient matter to convey a perfect idea of +the mode in which these people live. Such was soon found. While I +was employed, a man approached me with a large knife in his hand, seemingly +displeased, when he observed that my eyes were fixed on two representations +of human figures, which were placed at one end of the +apartment, carved on planks, of a gigantic proportion, and painted after +their custom. However, I took as little notice of him as possible, +and +proceeded; to prevent which, he soon provided himself with a mat, and +placed it in such a manner as to hinder my having any longer a sight of +them. Being pretty certain that I could have no future opportunity to +finish my drawing, and the object being too interesting to be omitted, I +considered that a little bribery might probably have some effect. Accordingly, +I made an offer of a button from my coat, which, being of metal, +I thought they would be pleased with. This, instantly, produced the desired +effect. For the mat was removed, and I was left at liberty to proceed +as before. Scarcely had I seated myself, and made a beginning, +when he returned, and renewed his former practice, continuing it till I +had parted with every single button; and when he saw that he had completely +stripped me, I met with no farther obstruction."—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote56" name="footnote56"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag56"> (return) </a><p>One of the methods of catching sea-otters, when ashore at +Kamptschatka, +is with nets.—See <i>Coxe's Russian Discoveries</i>, p. 13.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote57" name="footnote57"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag57"> (return) </a><p>We now know that Captain Cook's conjecture was well founded. +It appears, from the Journal of this Voyage, already referred to, that the +Spaniards had intercourse with the natives of this coast only in three +places, in latitude 41° 7'; in latitude 47° 21'; and in latitude 57° 18'. +So that they were not within two degrees of Nootka; and it is most +probable that the people there never heard of these Spanish ships.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote58" name="footnote58"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag58"> (return) </a><p>Though the two silver table-spoons, found at Nootka Sound, most +probably came from the Spaniards in the south, there seems to be sufficient +grounds for believing that the regular supply of iron comes from a +different quarter. It is remarkable, that the Spaniards, in 1775, found at +<i>Puerto de la Trinidad</i>, in latitude 41°7', <i>arrows pointed with copper +or +iron, which they understood were procured from the north</i>. Mr Daines +Barrington, in a note at this part of the Spanish journal, p. 20, says "I +should conceive, that the copper and iron here mentioned, must have +originally been bartered at our forts in Hudson's Bay."—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote59" name="footnote59"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag59"> (return) </a><p>May we not, in confirmation of Mr Anderson's remark, observe, that +<i>Opulszthl</i>, the Nootka name of the Sun; and <i>Vitziputzli</i>, the name +of +the Mexican Divinity, have no very distant affinity in sound?—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote60" name="footnote60"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag60"> (return) </a><p>It will be found at the end of the voyage.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION IV.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound.—Resolution springs +a Leak.—Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed unexamined.—Progress +along the Coast of America.—Behring's +Bay.—Kaye's Island.—Account of it.—The Ships +come to an Anchor.—Visited by the Natives.—Their Behaviour.—Fondness +for Beads and Iron.—Attempt to plunder +the Discovery.—Resolution's Leak stopped.—Progress +up the Sound.—Messrs Gore and Roberts sent to examine +its Extent.—Reasons against a Passage to the North through +it.—The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, as before +related, with strong signs of an approaching storm, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page261" id="page261"></a>[pg 261]</span> +these signs did not deceive us. We were hardly out of the +Sound, before the wind, in an instant, shifted from north-east +to south-east by east, and increased to a strong gale, +with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky, that we could not +see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the +experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the +wind veering more to the south, which would put us in +danger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and +stretched off to the south-west, under all the sail that the +ships could bear. Fortunately, the wind veered no farther +southerly than south-east; so that at day-light the next +morning we were quite clear of the coast.</p> + +<p>The Discovery being at some distance a-stern, I brought-to +till she came up, and then bore away, steering north-west; +in which direction I supposed the coast to lie. The +wind was at south-east, blew very hard, and in squalls, with +thick hazy weather. At half-past one in the afternoon, it +blew a perfect hurricane; so that I judged it highly dangerous +to run any longer before it, and therefore brought +the ships to, with their heads to the southward, under the +foresails and mizen-stay-sails. At this time the Resolution +sprung a leak, which, at first, alarmed us not a little. It +was found to be under the starboard buttock; where, from +the bread-room, we could both hear and see the water +rush in; and, as we then thought, two feet under water. +But in this we were happily mistaken; for it was afterward +found to be even with the water-line, if not above it, when +the ship was upright. It was no sooner discovered, than +the fish-room was found to be full of water, and the casks +in it afloat; but this was, in a great measure, owing to the +water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals +that lay in the bottom of the room. For, after the water +was baled out, which employed us till midnight, and had +found its way directly from the leak to the pumps, it appeared +that one pump kept it under, which gave us no +small satisfaction. In the evening, the wind veered to the +south, and its fury, in some degree, ceased. On this we +set the main-sail, and two topsails close-reefed, and stretched +to the westward. But at eleven o'clock the gale again +increased, and obliged us to take in the topsails, till five +o'clock the next morning, when the storm began to abate, +so that we could bear to set them again.</p> + +<p>The weather now began to clear up, and being able to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page262" id="page262"></a>[pg 262]</span> +see several leagues round us, I steered more to the northward. +At noon, the latitude, by observation, was 50° 1'; +longitude 229° 26'.<a id="footnotetag61" name="footnotetag61"></a><a href="#footnote61"><sup>1</sup></a> I now steered N.W. by N., with a +fresh gale at S.S.E. and fair weather. But at nine in the +evening, it began again to blow hard, and in squalls, with +rain. With such weather, and the wind between S.S.E. +and S.W. I continued the same course till the 30th, at +four in the morning, when I steered N. by W. in order to +make the land. I regretted very much indeed that I could +not do it sooner; for this obvious reason, that we were +now passing the place where geographers<a id="footnotetag62" name="footnotetag62"></a><a href="#footnote62"><sup>2</sup></a> have placed +the pretended strait of Admiral de Fonte. For my own +part, I give no credit to such vague and improbable stories, +that carry their own confutation along with them. +Nevertheless, I was very desirous of keeping the American +coast aboard, in order to clear up this point beyond dispute. +But it would have been highly imprudent in me to +have engaged with the land in weather so exceedingly +tempestuous, or to have lost the advantage of a fair wind +by waiting for better weather. This same day, at noon, +we were in the latitude of 53° 22', and in the longitude of +225° 14'.</p> + +<p>The next morning, being the 1st of May, seeing nothing +of the land, I steered north-easterly, with a fresh breeze at +S.S.E. and S., with squalls, and showers of rain and hail. +Our latitude at noon 54° 43', and our longitude 224° 44'. +At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 20', +we got sight of the land, extending from N.N.E. to E., or +E. by S. about twelve or fourteen leagues distant. An +hour after, I steered N. by W.; and at four the next morning, +the coast was seen from N. by W. to S.E. the nearest +part about six leagues distant.<a id="footnotetag63" name="footnotetag63"></a><a href="#footnote63"><sup>3</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page263" id="page263"></a>[pg 263]</span> + +<p>At this time the northern point of an inlet, or what appeared +to be one, bore E. by S. It lies in the latitude of +56°; and from it to the northward, the coast seemed to be +much broken, forming bays or harbours every two or three +leagues, or else appearances much deceived us. At six +o'clock, drawing nearer the land, I steered N.W. by N., +this being the direction of the coast; having a fresh gale +at S.E. with some showers of hail, snow, and sleet. Between +eleven and twelve o'clock, we passed a group of +small islands, lying under the main land, in the latitude of +56° 48'; and off, or rather to the northward of the south +point of a large bay. An arm of this bay, in the northern +part of it, seemed to extend in toward the north, behind +a round elevated mountain that lies between it and the +sea. This mountain I called <i>Mount Edgcumbe</i>; and the +point of land that shoots out from it <i>Cape Edgcumbe</i>. The +latter lies in the latitude of 57° 3', and in the longitude of +224° 7'; and at noon it bore north 20° W. six leagues distant.</p> + +<p>The land, except in some places close to the sea, is all +of a considerable height, and hilly; but Mount Edgcumbe +far out-tops all the other hills. It was wholly covered with +snow; as were also all the other elevated hills; but the +lower ones, and the flatter spots, bordering upon the sea, +were free from it, and covered with wood.</p> + +<p>As we advanced to the north, we found the coast from +Cape Edgcumbe to trend north and north-easterly for six +or seven leagues, and there form a large bay. In the entrance +of that bay are some islands; for which reason I +named it the <i>Bay of Islands</i>. It lies in the latitude of 57° +20';<a id="footnotetag64" name="footnotetag64"></a><a href="#footnote64"><sup>4</sup></a> and seemed to branch into several arms, one of +which turned to the south, and may probably +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page264" id="page264"></a>[pg 264]</span> +communicate with the bay on the east side of Cape Edgcumbe, and +make the land of the Cape an island. At eight o'clock in +the evening, the Cape bore S.E. 1/2 S.; the Bay of Islands +N. 53° E.; and another inlet, before which are also some +islands, bore N. 52° E. five leagues distant. I continued to +steer N.N.W. 1/2 W. and N.W. by W. as the coast trended, +with a fine gale at N.E. and clear weather.</p> + +<p>At half-an-hour past four in the morning, on the 3d, +Mount Edgcumbe bore S. 54° E.; a large inlet, N. 50° E., +distant six leagues; and the most advanced point of the +land, to the N.W. lying under a very high-peaked mountain, +which obtained the name of <i>Mount Fairweather</i>, bore +N. 32° W. The inlet was named <i>Cross Sound</i>, as being first +seen on that day, so marked in our calendar. It appeared +to branch in several arms, the largest of which turned to +the northward. The S.E. point of this Sound is a high +promontory, which obtained the name of <i>Cross Cape</i>. It +lies in the latitude of 57° 57', and its longitude is 223° 21'. +At noon it bore S.E.; and the point under the peaked +mountain, which was called <i>Cape Fairweather</i>, N. by W. 1/4 +W., distant thirteen leagues. Our latitude at this time +was 58° 17', and our longitude 222° 14'; and we were distant +from the shore three or four leagues. In this situation +we found the variation of the compass to be from 24° 11' +to 26° 11' E.</p> + +<p>Here the N.E. wind left us, and was succeeded by light +breezes from the N.W. which lasted for several days. I +stood to the S.W. and W.S.W. till eight o'clock the next +morning, when we tacked, and stood toward the shore. +At noon, the latitude was 58° 22', and the longitude 220° +45'. Mount Fairweather, the peaked mountain over the +Cape of the same name, bore N. 63° E.; the shore under +it twelve leagues distant. This mountain, which lies in the +latitude of 58° 52', and in the longitude of 222°, and five +leagues inland, is the highest of a chain, or rather a ridge +of mountains, that rise at the N.W. entrance of Cross +Sound, and extend to the N.W. in a parallel direction +with the coast. These mountains were wholly covered with +snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast; +some few places excepted, where we could perceive trees +rising, as it were, out of the sea; and which, therefore, we +supposed, grew on low land, or on islands bordering upon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page265" id="page265"></a>[pg 265]</span> +the shore of the continent.<a id="footnotetag65" name="footnotetag65"></a><a href="#footnote65"><sup>5</sup></a> At five in the afternoon, our +latitude being then 58° 53', and our longitude 220° 52', +the summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the +horizon, bearing N., 26° W., and, as was afterwards found, +forty leagues distant. We supposed it to be Beering's +Mount St Elias; and it stands by that name in our chart.</p> + +<p>This day we saw several whales, seals, and porpoises; +many gulls, and several flocks of birds, which had a black +ring about the head; the tip of the tail, and the upper +part of the wings, with a black band; and the rest bluish +above and white below. We also saw a brownish duck, +with a black or deep-blue head and neck, sitting upon the +water.</p> + +<p>Having but light winds, with some calms, we advanced +slowly; so that on the 6th at noon we were only in the latitude +of 59° 8', and in the longitude of 220° 19'. Mount +Fairweather bore S. 63° E. and Mount Elias N. 30° W.; +the nearest land about eight leagues distant. In the direction +of N. 47° E. from this station, there was the appearance +of a bay, and an island off the S. point of it that was +covered with wood. It is here where I suppose Commodore +Beering to have anchored. The latitude, which is 59° +18', corresponds pretty well with the map of his voyage,<a id="footnotetag66" name="footnotetag66"></a><a href="#footnote66"><sup>6</sup></a> +and the longitude is 221° E. Behind the bay, (which I +shall distinguish by the name of Beering's Bay, in honour +of its discoverer,) or rather to the south of it, the chain of +mountains before mentioned is interrupted by a plain of a +few leagues extent; beyond which the sight was unlimited; +so that there is either a level country or water behind +it. In the afternoon, having a few hours calm, I took this +opportunity to sound, and found seventy fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom. The calm was succeeded by a light +breeze from the N., with which we stood to the westward; +and at noon the next day, we were in the latitude of 59° +27', and the longitude of 219° 7'. In this situation, Mount +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page266" id="page266"></a>[pg 266]</span> +Fairweather bore S. 70° E.; Mount St Elias N. 1/2 W.; the +westernmost land in sight N. 52° W.; and our distance +from the shore four or five leagues; the depth of water being +eighty-two fathoms over a muddy bottom. From this +station we could see a bay (circular to appearance) under +the high land, with low wood-land on each side of it.</p> + +<p>We now found the coast to trend very much to the west, +inclining hardly any thing to the north; and as we had the +wind mostly from the westward, and but little of it, our +progress was slow. On the 9th at noon, the latitude was +59° 30', and the longitude 217°. In this situation the nearest +land was nine leagues distant; and Mount St Elias bore +N., 30° E, nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies +twelve leagues inland in the latitude of 60° 27', and in the +longitude of 219°. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly +high mountains, that may be reckoned a continuation of +the former, as they are only divided from them by the +plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west as +the longitude of 217°; where, although they do not end, +they lose much of their height, and become more broken +and divided.</p> + +<p>At noon on the 10th, our latitude was 59° 51', and our +longitude 215° 56', being no more than three leagues from, +the coast of the continent, which extended from E. 1/2 N., +to N.W. 1/2 W., as far as the eye could reach. To the +westward of this last direction was an island that extended +from N., 52° W., to S., 85° W., distant six leagues. A +point shoots out from the main toward the N.E. end of the +island, bearing, at this time, N., 30° W., five or six leagues +distant. This point I named <i>Cape Suckling</i>. The point of +the cape is low; but within it, is a tolerably high hill, +which is disjoined from the mountains by low land; so +that, at a distance, the cape looks like an island. On the +north side of Cape Suckling is a bay that appeared to be +of some extent, and to be covered from most winds. To +this bay I had some thoughts of going, to stop our leak, as +all our endeavours to do it at sea had proved ineffectual. +With this view, I steered for the cape; but as we had only +variable light breezes, we approached it slowly. However, +before night, we were near enough to see some low land +spitting out from the cape to the north-west, so as to cover +the east part of the bay from the south wind. We also +saw some small islands in the bay, and elevated rocks +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page267" id="page267"></a>[pg 267]</span> +between the cape and the north-east end of the island. But +still there appeared to be a passage on both sides of these +rocks; and I continued steering for them all night, having +from forty-three to twenty-seven fathoms water over a +muddy bottom.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock next morning, the wind, which had been +mostly at N.E., shifted to N. This being against us, I +gave up the design of going within the island, or into the +bay, as neither could be done without loss of time. I +therefore bore up for the west end of the island. The +wind blew faint, and at ten o'clock it fell calm. Being +not far from the island, I went in a boat, and landed upon +it, with a view of seeing what lay on the other side; but +finding it farther to the hills than I expected, and the way +being steep and woody, I was obliged to drop the design. +At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the +shore, I left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were inscribed +the names of the ships, and the date of our discovery. +And along with it, I inclosed two silver two-penny +pieces of his majesty's coin, of the date 1772. These, with +many others, were furnished me by the Reverend Dr Kaye;<a id="footnotetag67" name="footnotetag67"></a><a href="#footnote67"><sup>7</sup></a> +and, as a mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, +I named the island, after him, <i>Kaye's Island</i>. It is +eleven or twelve leagues in length, in the direction of N.E. +and S.W.; but its breadth is not above a league, or a +league and a half, in any part of it. The S.W. point, which +lies in the latitude of 59° 49', and the longitude of 216° +58', is very remarkable, being a naked rock, elevated considerably +above the land within it. There is also an elevated +rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, +appears like a ruined castle. Toward the sea, the island +terminates in a kind of bare-sloping cliffs, with a beach, +only a few paces across to their foot, of large pebble stones, +intermixed in some places with a brownish clayey sand, +which the sea seems to deposit after rolling in, having +been washed down from the higher parts, by the rivulets +or torrents. The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or +rock, in a soft or mouldering state, except in a few places. +There are parts of the shore interrupted by small vallies +and gullies. In each of these, a rivulet or torrent rushes +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page268" id="page268"></a>[pg 268]</span> +down with considerable impetuosity; though it may be +supposed that they are only furnished from the snow, and +last no longer than till it is all melted. These vallies are +filled with pine-trees, which grow down close to the entrance, +but only to about half way up the higher or middle +part of the island. The woody part also begins, every-where, +immediately above the cliffs, and is continued to +the same height with the former; so that the island is covered, +as it were, with a broad girdle of wood, spread upon +its side, included between the top of the cliffy shore; and +the higher parts in the centre. The trees, however, are +far from being of an uncommon growth; few appearing to +be larger than one might grasp round with his arms, and +about forty or fifty feet high; so that the only purpose +they could answer for shipping, would be to make top-gallant +masts, and other small things. How far we may +judge of the size of the trees which grow on the neighbouring +continent, it may be difficult to determine. But +it was observed, that none larger than those we saw growing, +lay upon the beach amongst the drift-wood. The +pine-trees seemed all of one sort; and there was neither +the Canadian pine, nor cypress, to be seen. But there were +a few which appeared to be the alder, that were but small, +and had not yet shot forth their leaves. Upon the edges +of the cliffs, and on some sloping ground, the surface was +covered with a kind of turf, about half a foot thick, which +seemed composed of the common moss; and the top, or +upper part of the island, had almost the same appearance +as to colour; but whatever covered it seemed to be thicker. +I found amongst the trees some currant and hawberry +bushes; a small yellow-flowered violet; and the leaves of +some other plants not yet in flower, particularly one which +Mr Anderson supposed to be the <i>heracleum</i> of Linnæus, the +sweet herb, which Steller, who attended Beering, imagined +the Americans here dress for food, in the same manner as +the natives of Kamtschatka.</p> + +<p>We saw, flying about the wood, a crow; two or three of +the white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka; and another +sort full as large, which appeared also of the same +colour, or blacker, and had only a white breast.<a id="footnotetag68" name="footnotetag68"></a><a href="#footnote68"><sup>8</sup></a> In the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page269" id="page269"></a>[pg 269]</span> +passage from the ship to the shore, we saw a great many +fowls sitting upon the water, or flying about in flocks or +pairs; the chief of which were a few quebrantaheuses, divers, +ducks, or large peterels, gulls, shags, and burres. +The divers were of two sorts; one very large, of a black +colour, with a white breast and belly; the other smaller, +and with a longer and more pointed bill, which seemed to +be the common guillemot. The ducks were also of two +sorts; one brownish, with a black or deep blue head and +neck, and is perhaps the stone-duck described by Steller. +The others fly in larger flocks, but are smaller than these, +and are of a dirty black colour. The gulls were of the +common sort, and those which fly in flocks. The shags +were large and black, with a white spot behind the wings +as they flew; but probably only the larger water cormorant. +There was also a single bird seen flying about, to +appearance of the gull kind, of a snowy white colour, with +black along part of the upper side of its wings. I owe all +these remarks to Mr Anderson. At the place where we +landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyed +us with very little emotion, walking leisurely without any +signs of fear. He was of a reddish-yellow colour, like +some of the skins we bought at Nootka, but not of a large +size. We also saw two or three little seals off shore; but +no other animals or birds, nor the least signs of inhabitants +having ever been upon the island.</p> + +<p>I returned on board at half past two in the afternoon; +and, with a light breeze easterly, steered for the S.W. +point of the island, which we got round by eight o'clock, +and then stood for the westernmost land now in sight, +which, at this time, bore N.W. 1/2 N. On the N.W. side of +the N.E. end of Kaye's Island, lies another island, stretching +S.E. and N.W. about three leagues, to within the same +distance of the N.W. boundary of the bay above mentioned, +which is distinguished by the name of <i>Comptroller's +Bay</i>.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at four o'clock, Kaye's Island was still in +sight, bearing E. 1/4 S. At this time, we were about four or +five leagues from the main; and the most western part in +sight bore N.W. 1/2 N. We had now a fresh gale at E.S.E., +and as we advanced to the N.W., we raised land more and +more westerly, and, at last, to the southward of W.; so +that, at noon, when the latitude was 61° 11", and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page270" id="page270"></a>[pg 270]</span> +longitude 213° 28', the most advanced land bore from us +S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At the same time, the E. point of a +large inlet bore W.N.W., three leagues distant.</p> + +<p>From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which I named +<i>Cape Hinchingbroke</i>, the direction of the coast is nearly E. +and W. Beyond this, it seemed to incline to the southward; +a direction so contrary to the modern charts founded +upon the late Russian discoveries, that we had reason to +expect that, by the inlet before us, we should find a passage +to the N.; and that the land to the W. and S.W. was +nothing but a group of islands. Add to this, that the wind +was now at S.E., and we were threatened with a fog and a +storm; and I wanted to get into some place to stop the +leak, before we encountered another gale. These reasons +induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no sooner +reached, than the weather became so foggy, that we could +not see a mile before us, and it became necessary to secure +the ships in some place, to wait for a clearer sky. With +this view, I hauled close under Cape Hinchingbroke, and +anchored before a small cove, a little within the cape, in +eight fathoms water, a clayey bottom, and about a quarter +of a mile from the shore.</p> + +<p>The boats were then hoisted out, some to sound, and +others to fish. The seine was drawn in the cove; but +without success, for it was torn. At some short intervals, +the fog cleared away, and gave us a sight of the lands +around us. The cape bore S. by W. 1/2 W., one league +distant; the W. point of the inlet S.W. by W., distant five +leagues; and the land on that side extended as far as W. +by N. Between this point and N.W. by W., we could see +no land; and what was in the last direction seemed to be +at a great distance. The westernmost point we had in +sight on the N. shore, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. +Between this point, and the shore under which we +were at anchor, is a bay about three leagues deep; on the +S.E. side of which there are two or three coves, such as +that before which we had anchored, and in the middle +some rocky islands.</p> + +<p>To these islands Mr Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes +of shooting some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to +them, before about twenty natives made their appearance +in two large canoes; on which he thought proper to return +to the ships, and they followed him. They would +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page271" id="page271"></a>[pg 271]</span> +not venture alongside, but kept at some distance, hollowing +aloud, and alternately clasping and extending their +arms; and, in a short time, began a kind of song exactly +after the manner of those at Nootka. Their heads were +also powdered with feathers. One man held out a white +garment, which we interpreted as a sign of friendship; +and another stood up in the canoe, quite naked, for almost +a quarter of an hour, with his arms stretched out like a +cross, and motionless. The canoes were not constructed of +wood, as at King George's or Nootka Sound. The frame +only, being slender laths, was of that substance; the outside +consisting of the skins of seals, or of such like animals. +Though we returned all their signs of friendship, +and, by every expressive gesture, tried to encourage them +to come alongside, we could not prevail. Some of our +people repeated several of the common words of the Nootka +language, such as <i>seekemaile</i>, and <i>mahook</i>; but they did not +seem to understand them. After receiving some presents, +which were thrown to them, they retired toward that part +of the shore from whence they came; giving us to understand +by signs, that they would visit us again the next +morning. Two of them, however, each in a small canoe, +waited upon us in the night; probably with a design to +pilfer something, thinking we should be all asleep; for +they retired as soon as they found themselves discovered.</p> + +<p>During the night, the wind was at S.S.E., blowing hard +and in squalls, with rain, and very thick weather. At ten +o'clock next morning, the wind became more moderate, +and the weather being somewhat clearer, we got under +sail, in order to look out for some snug place, where we +might search for, and stop the leak; our present station +being too much exposed for this purpose. At first I proposed +to have gone up the bay, before which we had anchored; +but the clearness of the weather tempted me to +steer to the northward, farther up the great inlet, as being +all in our way. As soon as we had passed the N.W. point +of the bay above mentioned, we found the coast on that +side to turn short to the eastward. I did not follow it, but +continued our course to the north, for a point of land which +we saw in that direction.</p> + +<p>The natives who visited us the preceding evening, came +off again in the morning, in five or six canoes; but not till +we were under sail; and although they followed us for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page272" id="page272"></a>[pg 272]</span> +some time, they could not get up with us. Before two in +the afternoon, the bad weather returned again, with so +thick a haze, that we could see no other land besides the +point just mentioned, which we reached at half past four, +and found it to be a small island, lying about two miles from +the adjacent coast, being a point of land, on the east side +of which we discovered a fine bay, or rather harbour. To +this we plied up, under reefed topsails and courses. The +wind blew strong at S.E., and in excessively hard squalls, +with rain. At intervals, we could see land in every direction; +but in general the weather was so foggy, that we +could see none but the shores of the bay into which we +were plying. In passing the island, the depth of water was +twenty-six fathoms, with a muddy bottom. Soon after, +the depth increased to sixty and seventy fathoms, a rocky +bottom; but in the entrance of the bay, the depth was +from thirty to six fathoms; the last very near the shore. +At length, at eight o'clock, the violence of the squalls obliged +us to anchor in thirteen fathoms, before we had got +so far into the bay as I intended; but we thought ourselves +fortunate that we had already sufficiently secured ourselves +at this hour; for the night was exceedingly stormy.</p> + +<p>The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the +natives from paying us a visit. They came off in two canoes; +two men in one, and one in the other, being the +number each could carry. For they were built and constructed +in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux; +only in the one were two holes for two men to sit in, and +in the other but one. Each of these men had a stick, +about three feet long, with the large feathers or wing of +birds tied to it. These they frequently held up to us, with +a view, as we guessed, to express their pacific disposition.<a id="footnotetag69" name="footnotetag69"></a><a href="#footnote69"><sup>9</sup></a></p> + +<p>The treatment these men met with, induced many more +to visit us, between one and two the next morning, in both +great and small canoes. Some ventured on board the ship; +but not till some of our people had stepped into their boats. +Amongst those who came on board, was a good-looking +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page273" id="page273"></a>[pg 273]</span> +middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the +chief. He was cloathed in a dress made of the sea-otter's +skin; and had on his head such a cap as is worn by the +people of King George's Sound, ornamented with sky-blue +glass beads, about the size of a large pea. He seemed to +set a much higher value upon these, than upon our white +glass beads. Any sort of beads, however, appeared to be +in high estimation with these people; and they readily +gave whatever they had in exchange for them, even their +fine sea-otter skins. But here I must observe, that they +set no more value upon these than upon other skins, which +was also the case at King George's Sound, till our people +set a higher price upon them; and even after that, the natives +of both places would sooner part with a dress made of +these, than with one made of the skins of wild-cats or of +martins.</p> + +<p>These people were also desirous of iron; but they wanted +pieces eight or ten inches long at least, and of the +breadth of three or four fingers. For they absolutely rejected +small pieces. Consequently, they got but little from +us; iron having, by this time, become rather a scarce article. +The points of some of their spears or lances were of +that metal; others were of copper, and a few of bone; of +which the points of their darts, arrows, &c. were composed. +I could not prevail open the chief to trust himself +below the upper deck; nor did he and his companions remain +long on board. But while we had their company, it +was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed +a thievish disposition. At length, after being about +three at four hours alongside the Resolution, they all left +her, and went to the Discovery; none having been there +before, except one man, who, at this time, came from her, +and immediately returned thither in company with the +rest. When I observed this, I thought this man had met +with something there, which he knew would please his +countrymen better than what they met with at our ship. +But in this I was mistaken, as will soon appear.</p> + +<p>As soon as they were gone, I sent a boat to sound the +head of the bay. For, as the wind was moderate, I had +thoughts of laying the ship ashore, if a convenient place +could be found where I might begin our operations to stop +the leak. It was not long before all the Americans left +the Discovery, and instead of returning to us, made their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page274" id="page274"></a>[pg 274]</span> +way toward our boat employed as above. The officer in +her seeing, this, returned to the ship, and was followed by +all the canoes. The boat's crew had no sooner come on +board, leaving in her two of their number by way of a +guard, than some of the Americans stepped into her. Some +presented their spears before the two men; others cast +loose the rope which fastened her to the ship; and the +rest attempted to tow her away. But the instant they saw +us preparing to oppose them, they let her go, stepped out +of her into their canoes, and made signs to us to lay down +our arms, having the appearance of being as perfectly unconcerned +as if they had done nothing amiss. This, though +rather a more daring attempt, was hardly equal to what +they had meditated on board the Discovery. The man +who came and carried all his countrymen from the Resolution +to the other ship had first been on board of her, +where, after looking down all the hatchways, and seeing +nobody but the officer of the watch, and one or two more, +he no doubt thought they might plunder her with ease, +especially as she lay at some distance from us. It was unquestionably +with this view, that they all repaired to her. +Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board; +drew their knives; made signs to the officer and people on +deck to keep off; and began to look about them for plunder. +The first thing they met with was the rudder of one +of the boats, which they threw over-board to those of their +party who had remained in the canoes. Before they had +time to find another object that pleased their fancy, the +crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck armed +with cutlasses. On seeing this, the whole company of +plunderers sneaked off into their canoes, with as much deliberation +and indifference as they had given up the boat; +and they were observed describing to those who had not +been on board, how much longer the knives of the ship's +crew were than their own. It was at this time, that my +boat was on the sounding duty, which they must have +seen; for they proceeded directly for her, after their disappointment +at the Discovery. I have not the least doubt, +that their visiting us so very early in the morning was with +a view to plunder; on a supposition, that they should find +every body asleep.</p> + +<p>May we not, from these circumstances, reasonably infer, +that these people are unacquainted with fire-arms? For, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page275" id="page275"></a>[pg 275]</span> +certainly, if they had known any thing of their effect, they +never would have dared to attempt taking a boat from under +ship's guns, in the face of above a hundred men; for +most of my people were looking at them, at the very instant +they made the attempt. However, after all these +tricks, we had the good fortune to leave them as ignorant, +in this respect, as we found them. For they neither heard +nor saw a musquet fired, unless at birds.</p> + +<p>Just as we were going to weigh the anchor, to proceed +farther up the bay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as +before; so that we were obliged to veer away the cable +again, and lay fast. Toward the evening, finding that the +gale did not moderate, and that it might be some time before +an opportunity offered to get higher up, I came to a +resolution to heel the ship where we were; and, with this +view, moored her with a kedge-anchor and hawser. In +heaving the anchor out of the boat, one of the seamen, either +through ignorance or carelessness, or both, was carried +over-board by the buoy-rope, and followed the anchor +to the bottom. It is remarkable, that, in this very critical +situation, he had presence of mind to disengage himself, +and come up to the surface of the water, where he was taken +up, with one of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning, we gave the ship a good heel to +port, in order to come at, and stop the leak. On ripping +off the sheathing, it was found to be in the seams, which +were very open, both in and under the wale, and, in several +places, not a bit of oakum in them. While the carpenters +were making good these defects, we filled all our empty +water-casks, at a stream hard by the ship. The wind was +now moderate, but the weather was thick and hazy, with +rain.</p> + +<p>The natives, who left us the preceding day, when the +bad weather came on, paid us another visit this morning. +Those who came first, were in small canoes; others, afterward, +arrived in large boats; in one of which were twenty +women, and one man, besides children.</p> + +<p>In the evening of the 16th, the weather cleared up, and +we then found ourselves surrounded on every side by land. +Our station was on the east side of the Sound, in a place, +which in the chart is distinguished by the name of <i>Snug +Corner Bay</i>. And a very snug place it is. I went, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page276" id="page276"></a>[pg 276]</span> +accompanied by some of the officers, to view the head of it, and +we found that it was sheltered from all winds, with a depth +of water from even to three fathoms over a muddy bottom. +The land, near the shore, is low, part clear, and +part wooded. The clear ground was covered, two or three +feet thick, with snow; but very little lay in the woods. +The very summits of the neighbouring hills were covered +with wood; but those farther inland seemed to be naked +rocks, buried in snow.</p> + +<p>The leak being stopped, and the sheathing made good +over it, at four o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we +weighed, and steered to the north-westward, with a light +breeze at E.N.E.; thinking, if there should be any passage +to the north through this inlet, that it must be in that direction. +Soon after we were under sail, the natives, in +both great and small canoes, paid us another visit, which +gave us an additional opportunity of forming a more perfect +idea of their persons, dress, and other particulars, +which shall be afterward described. Our visitors seemed +to have no other business, but to gratify their curiosity; +for they entered into no sort of traffic with us. After we +had got over to the N.W. point of the arm in which we +had anchored, we found that the flood-tide came into the +inlet through the same channel by which we had entered. +Although this circumstance did not make wholly against a +passage, it was, however, nothing in its favour. After passing +the point above mentioned, we met with a good deal +of foul ground, and many sunken rocks, even out in the +middle of the channel, which is here five or six leagues +wide. At this time the wind failed us, and was succeeded +by calms and light airs from every direction; so that we +had some trouble to extricate ourselves from the threatening +danger. At length, about one o'clock, with the assistance +of our boats, we got to an anchor, under the eastern +shore, in thirteen fathoms water, and about four leagues to +the north of our last station. In the morning, the weather +had been very hazy; but it afterward cleared up, so as to +give us a distinct view of all the land round us, particularly +to the northward, where it seemed to close. This left us +but little hopes of finding a passage that way, or, indeed, +in any other direction, without putting out again to sea.</p> + +<p>To enable me to form a better judgment, I dispatched +Mr Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the northern +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page277" id="page277"></a>[pg 277]</span> +arm; and the master, with two other boats, to examine +another arm that seemed to take an easterly direction. +Late in the evening they both returned. The master reported, +that the arm he had been sent to, communicated +with that from which we had last come; and that one side +of it was only formed by a group of islands. Mr Gore informed +me, that he had seen the entrance of an arm, +which, he was of opinion, extended a long way to the +N.E.; and that, probably by it, a passage might be found. +On the other hand, Mr Roberts, one of the mates, whom I +had sent with Mr Gore to sketch out the parts they had +examined, was of opinion, that they saw the head of this +arm. The disagreement of these two opinions, and the +circumstance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering +the Sound from the south, rendered the existence of a passage +this way very doubtful. And, as the wind in the morning +had become favourable for getting out to sea, I resolved +to spend no more time in searching for a passage in a place +that promised so little success. Besides this, I considered, +that, if the land on the west should prove to be islands, +agreeably to the late Russian Discoveries,<a id="footnotetag70" name="footnotetag70"></a><a href="#footnote70"><sup>10</sup></a> we could not +fail of getting far enough to the north, and that in good +time, provided we did not lose the season in searching +places, where a passage was not only doubtful, but improbable. +We were now upward of five hundred and twenty +leagues to the westward of any part of Baffin's, or of Hudson's +Bay. And whatever passage there may be, it must +be, or, at least, part of it, must lie to the north of latitude +72°.<a id="footnotetag71" name="footnotetag71"></a><a href="#footnote11"><sup>71</sup></a> Who could expect to find a passage or strait of such +extent?</p> + +<p>Having thus taken my resolution, next morning at three +o'clock, we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at north, +proceeded to the southward down the inlet, and met with +the same broken ground, as on the preceding day. However, +we soon extricated ourselves from it, and afterward +never struck ground with a line of forty fathoms. Another +passage into this inlet was now discovered to the S.W. of +that by which we came in, which enabled us to shorten our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page278" id="page278"></a>[pg 278]</span> +way out to sea. It is separated from the other by an island, +extending eighteen leagues in the direction of N.E. and +S.W.; to which I gave the name of <i>Montagu Island</i>.</p> + +<p>In this S.W. channel are several islands. Those that lie +in the entrance, next the open sea, are high and rocky. +But those within are low ones; and being entirely free +from snow, and covered with wood and verdure, on this +account they were called <i>Green Islands</i>.</p> + +<p>At two in the afternoon, the wind veered to the S.W., +and S.W. by S., which reduced us to the necessity of plying. +I first stretched over to within two miles of the eastern, +shore, and tacked in fifty-three fathoms water. In standing +back to Montagu Island, we discovered a ledge of +rocks, some above, and others under water, lying three +miles to the north of the northern point of Green Islands. +Afterward, some others were seen in the middle of the +channel farther out than the islands. These rocks made +unsafe plying in the night (though not very dark); and, +for that reason, we spent it standing off and on, under +Montagu Island; for the depth of water was too great to +come to an anchor.</p> + +<p>At day-break, the next morning, the wind came more +favourable, and we steered for the channel between Montagu +Island and the Green Islands, which is between two +and three leagues broad, and from thirty-four to seventeen +fathoms deep. We had but little wind all the day, and, at +eight o'clock in the evening, it was a dead calm, when we +anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, +about two miles from the shore of Montagu's Island. +The calm continued till ten o'clock the next morning, when, +it was succeeded by a small breeze from the north, with +which we weighed; and, by six o'clock in the evening, we +were again in the open sea, and found the coast trending +west by south, as far as the eye could reach.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote61" name="footnote61"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag61"> (return) </a><p>As in the remaining part of this chapter, the latitude and +longitude +are very frequently set down, the former being invariably North, and the +latter East, the constant repetition of the two words, <i>North</i> and +<i>East</i>, +has been omitted, to avoid unnecessary precision.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote62" name="footnote62"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag62"> (return) </a><p>See de Lisle's <i>Générale des Découvertes de l'Amiral de +Fonte</i>, &c. +Paris, 1752; and many other maps.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote63" name="footnote63"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag63"> (return) </a><p>This must be very near that part of the American coast where +Tscherikow anchored in 1741, for Muller places its latitude in 56°. Had +this Russian navigator been so fortunate as to proceed a little farther +northward along the coast, he would have found, as we now learn from +Captain Cook, bays, and harbours, and islands, where his ship might have +been sheltered, and his people protected in landing. For the +particulars +of the misfortunes he met with here, two boats' crews, which he sent +ashore, having never returned, probably cut off by the natives, see <i>Muller's +Découvertes de Russes</i>, p. 248, 254. The Spaniards, in 1775, found +two good harbours on this part of the coast; that called <i>Guadalupe</i>, in +latitude 57° 11', and the other, <i>De los Remedios</i>, in latitude 57° +18'.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote64" name="footnote64"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag64"> (return) </a><p>It should seem, that, in this very bay, the Spaniards, in 1775, +found +their port which they call <i>De los Remedios</i>. The latitude is exactly the +same; and their journal mentions its being protected by a long ridge of +high islands. See Miscellanies, by the Honourable Daines Barrington, +p. 503, 504.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote65" name="footnote65"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag65"> (return) </a><p>According to Muller, Beering fell in with the coast of North +America +in latitude 58° 28', and he describes its aspect thus: "<i>L'aspect du +pays étoit affrayaut par ses hautes montagnes couvertes de niege.</i>" The +chain or ridge of mountains covered with snow, mentioned here by Captain +Cook, in the same latitude, exactly agrees with what Beering met +with. See Muller's <i>Voyages et Découvertes de Russes</i>, p. 248-254.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote66" name="footnote66"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag66"> (return) </a><p>Probably Captain Cook means Muller's map, prefixed to his History +of the Russian Discoveries.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote67" name="footnote67"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag67"> (return) </a><p>Then sub-almoner and chaplain to his majesty, afterwards Dean of +Lincoln.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote68" name="footnote68"></a><b>Footnote 8:</b><a href="#footnotetag68"> (return) </a><p>This species is in the Leverian Museum, and described by Mr Latham, +in his Synopsis of Birds, vol. i. p. 33, No. 72, under the name of +the <i>White-bellied Eagle</i>.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote69" name="footnote69"></a><b>Footnote 9:</b><a href="#footnotetag69"> (return) </a><p>Exactly corresponding to this, was the manner of receiving +Beering's +people, at the Schumagin Islands, on this coast, in 1741. Muller's words +are—"On sait ce que c'est que le <i>Calumet</i>, que les Americans +septentrionaux +présentent en signe de paix. Ceux-ci en tenoient de pareils en +main. C'étoient des bâtons avec <i>ailes de faucon</i> attachées au +bout"—Decouvertes, +p. 268.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote70" name="footnote70"></a><b>Footnote 10:</b><a href="#footnotetag70"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook seems to take his ideas of these from Mr Stæhlin's +map, prefixed to the account of the Northern Archipelago, published by +Dr Maty. London, 1774.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote71" name="footnote71"></a><b>Footnote 11:</b><a href="#footnotetag71"> (return) </a><p>On what evidence Captain Cook formed his judgment as to this, is +mentioned in the Introduction.—D.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page279" id="page279"></a>[pg 279]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION V.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>The Inlet called Prince William's Sound.—Its Extent.—Persons +of the Inhabitants described.—Their Dress.—Incision +of the Under-lip.—Various other Ornaments.—Their +Boats.—Weapons, fishing, and hunting Instruments.—Utensils.—Tools.—Uses +Iron is applied to.—Food.—Language, +and a Specimen of it.—Animals.—Birds.—Fish.—Iron and +Beads, whence received.</i></blockquote> + +<p>To the inlet, which we had now left, I gave the name of +<i>Prince William's Sound</i>. To judge of this Sound from what +we saw of it, it occupies, at least, a degree and a half of +latitude, and two of longitude, exclusive of the arms or +branches, the extent of which is not known.</p> + +<p>The natives, who came to make us several visits while +we were in the Sound, were generally not above the common +height, though many of them were under it. They +were square, or strongly-chested, and the most disproportioned +part of their body seemed to be their heads, which +were very large, with thick, short necks, and large, broad +or spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their +eyes, though not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the +size of their faces; and their noses had full, round points, +hooked, or turned up at the tip. Their teeth were broad, +white, equal in size, and evenly set. Their hair was black, +thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in general, +thin, or wanting; but the hairs about the lips of those who +have them, were stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown +colour. And several of the elderly men had even large and +thick, but straight beards.</p> + +<p>Though, in general, they agree in the make of their persons, +and largeness of their heads, there is a considerable +variety in their features; but very few can be said to be of +the handsome sort, though their countenance commonly +indicates a considerable share of vivacity, good-nature, and +frankness. And yet some of them had an air of sullenness +and reserve. Some of the women have agreeable faces; +and many are easily distinguishable from the men by their +features, which are more delicate; but this should be understood +chiefly of the youngest sort, or middle-aged. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page280" id="page280"></a>[pg 280]</span> +complexion of some of the women, and of the children, is +white; but without any mixture of red. And some of the +men, who were seen naked, had rather a brownish or swarthy +cast, which could scarcely be the effect of any stain; +for they do not paint their bodies.</p> + +<p>Their common dress (for men, women, and children are +cloathed alike), is a kind of close frock, or rather robe; +reaching generally to the ancles, though sometimes only to +the knees. At the upper part is a hole just sufficient to admit +the head, with sleeves that reach to the wrist. These +frocks are made of the skins of different animals; the most +common of which are those of the sea-otter, grey fox, racoon, +and pine-martin, with many of seal-skins, and, in general, +they are worn with the hairy side outward. Some +also have these frocks made of the skins of fowls, with only +the down remaining on them, which they glue on other +substances. And we saw one or two woollen garments like +those of Nootka. At the seams, where the different skins +are sewed together, they are commonly ornamented with +tassels or fringes of narrow thongs, cut out of the same +skins. A few have a kind of cape, or collar, and some a +hood; but the other is the most common form, and seems +to be their whole dress in good weather. When it rains, +they put over this another frock, ingeniously made from +the intestines of whales, or some other large animal, prepared +so skilfully, as almost to resemble our gold-beater's +leaf. It is made to draw tight round the neck; its sleeves +reach as low as the wrist, round which they are tied with a +string; and its skirts, when they are in their canoes, are +drawn over the rim of the hole in which they sit, so that +no water can enter. At the same time, it keeps the men +entirely dry upward. For no water can penetrate through +it, any more than through a bladder. It must be kept continually +moist or wet, otherwise it is apt to crack or break. +This, as well as the common frock made of the skins, bears +a great resemblance to the dress of the Greenlanders, as +described by Crantz.<a id="footnotetag72" name="footnotetag72"></a><a href="#footnote72"><sup>1</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page281" id="page281"></a>[pg 281]</span> + +<p>In general, they do not cover their legs or feet; but a +few have a kind of skin-stockings, which reach half-way +up the thigh; and scarcely any of them are without mittens +for the hands, made of the skins of bears' paws. +Those who wear any thing on their heads, resembled, in +this respect, our friends at Nootka, having high truncated +conic caps, made of straw, and sometimes of wood, resembling +a seal's head well painted.</p> + +<p>The men commonly wear the hair cropt round the neck +and forehead; but the women allow it to grow long, and +most of them tie a small lock of it on the crown, or a few +club it behind, after our manner. Both sexes have the +ears perforated with several holes, about the outer and +lower part of the edge, in which they hang little bunches +of beads, made of the same tubulous shelly substance used +for this purpose by those of Nootka. The <i>septum</i> of the +nose is also perforated, through which they frequently +thrust the quill-feathers of small birds, or little bending ornaments, +made of the above shelly substance, strung on a +stiff string or cord, three or four inches long, which give +them a truly grotesque appearance. But the most uncommon +and unsightly ornamental fashion, adopted by some +of both sexes, is their having the under-lip slit, or cut, +quite through, in the direction of the mouth, a little below +the swelling part. This incision, which is made even in +the sucking children, is often above two inches long, and +either by its natural retraction, when the wound is fresh, or +by the repetition of some artificial management, assumes +the true shape of lips, and becomes so large as to admit +the tongue through. This happened to be the case, when +the first person having this incision was seen by one of the +seamen, who called out, that the man had two mouths, +and, indeed, it does not look unlike it. In this artificial +mouth they stick a flat narrow ornament, made chiefly out +of a solid shell or bone, cut into little narrow pieces, like +small teeth, almost down to the base or thickest part, which +has a small projecting bit at each end that supports it when +put into the divided lip, the cut part then appearing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page282" id="page282"></a>[pg 282]</span> +outward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into separate +holes, and then the ornament consists of as many +distinct shelly studs, whose points are pushed through these +holes, and their heads appear within the lip, as another row +of teeth immediately under their own.</p> + +<p>These are their native ornaments. But we found many +beads of European manufacture among them, chiefly of a +pale-blue colour, which they hang in their ears, about their +caps, or join to their lip-ornaments, which have a small +hole drilled in each point to which they are fastened, and +others to them, till they hang sometimes as low as the point +of the chin. But, in this last case, they cannot remove +them so easily; for, as to their own lip-ornaments, they +can take them out with their tongue, or suck them in, at +pleasure. They also wear bracelets of the shelly-beads, or +others of a cylindrical shape, made of a substance like amber, +with such also as are used in their ears and noses. +And so fond are they, in general, of ornament, that they +stick any thing in their perforated lip; one man appearing +with two of our iron nails projecting from it like prongs; +and another endeavouring to put a large brass button into +it.</p> + +<p>The men frequently paint their faces of a bright red, and +of a black colour, and sometimes of a blue, or leaden colour, +but not in any regular figure; and the women, in +some measure, endeavoured to imitate them, by puncturing +or staining the chin with black, that comes to a point in +each cheek; a practice very similar to which is in fashion +amongst the females of Greenland, as we learn from Crantz. +Their bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the +scarcity of proper materials; for all the colours which they +brought to sell in bladders, were in very small quantities. +Upon the whole, I have no where seen savages who take +more pains than these people do, to ornament, or rather +to disfigure, their persons.</p> + +<p>Their boats or canoes are of two sorts, the one being +large and open, and the other small and covered. I mentioned +already, that in one of the large boats were twenty +women, and one man, besides children. I attentively examined +and compared the construction of this, with Crantz's +description of what he calls the great, or women's boat in +Greenland, and found that they were built in the same +manner, parts like parts, with no other difference than in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page283" id="page283"></a>[pg 283]</span> +the form of the head and stern; particularly of the first, +which bears some resemblance to the head of a whale. +The framing is of slender pieces of wood, over which the +skins of seals, or of other larger sea-animals, are stretched, +to compose the outside. It appeared also, that the small +canoes of these people are made nearly of the same form, +and of the same materials with those used by the Greenlanders +and Esquimaux; at least the difference is not material. +Some of these, as I have before observed, carry +two men. They are broader in proportion to their length, +than those of the Esquimaux, and the head or fore-part +curves somewhat like the head of a violin.</p> + +<p>The weapons, and instruments for fishing and hunting, +are the very same that are made use of by the Esquimaux +and Greenlanders; and it is unnecessary to be particular +in my account of them, as they are all very accurately described +by Crantz. I did not see a single one with these +people that he has not mentioned, nor has he mentioned, +one that they have not. For defensive armour they have +a kind of jacket, or coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound +together with sinews, which makes it quite flexible, though +so close as not to admit an arrow or dart. It only covers +the trunk of the body, and may not be improperly compared +to a woman's stays.</p> + +<p>As none of these people lived in the bay where we anchored, +or where any of us landed, we saw none of their +habitations, and I had not time to look after them. Of +their domestic utensils, they brought in their boats some +round and oval shallow dishes of wood, and others of a +cylindrical shape much deeper. The sides were made of +one piece, bent round, like our chip-boxes, though thick, +neatly fastened with thongs, and the bottoms fixed in with +small wooden pegs. Others were smaller, and of a more +elegant shape, somewhat resembling a large oval butterboat, +without a handle, but more shallow, made from a +piece of wood, or horny substance. These last were sometimes +neatly carved. They had many little square bags, +made of the same gut with their outer frocks, neatly ornamented +with very minute red feathers interwoven with it, +in which were contained some very fine sinews, and bundles +of small cord, made from them, most ingeniously +plaited. They also brought many chequered baskets, so +closely wrought as to hold water; some wooden models of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page284" id="page284"></a>[pg 284]</span> +their canoes; a good many little images, four or five inches +long, either of wood, or stuffed, which were covered with +a bit of fur, and ornamented with pieces of small quill feathers, +in imitation of their shelly beads, with hair fixed on +their heads. Whether these might be mere toys for children, +or held in veneration, as representing their deceased +friends, and applied to some superstitious purpose, we could +not determine. But they have many instruments made of +two or three hoops, or concentric pieces of wood, with a +cross-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To these +are fixed a great number of dried barnacle-shells, with +threads, which serve as a rattle, and make a loud noise; +when they shake them. This contrivance seems to be a +substitute for the rattling-bird at Nootka; and perhaps +both of them are employed on the same occasions.<a id="footnotetag73" name="footnotetag73"></a><a href="#footnote73"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>With what tools they make their wooden utensils, frames +of boats, and other things, is uncertain; as the only one +seen amongst them was a kind of stone-adze, made almost +after the manner of those of Otaheite, and the other islands +of the South Sea. They have a great many iron knives; +some of which are straight, others a little curved, and some +very small ones, fixed in pretty long handles, with the blades +bent upward, like some of our shoe-makers' instruments. +But they have still knives of another sort, which are sometimes +near two feet long, shaped almost like a dagger, with +a ridge in the middle. These they wear in sheaths of skins, +hung by a thong round the neck, under their robe, and +they are, probably, only used as weapons; the other knives +being apparently applied to other purposes. Every thing +they have, however, is as well and ingeniously made, as if +they were furnished with the most complete tool-chest; +and their sewing, plaiting of sinews, and small work on +their little bags, may be put in competition with the most +delicate manufactures found in any part of the known +world. In short, considering the otherwise uncivilized or +rude slate in which these people are, their northern situation, +amidst a country perpetually covered with snow, and +the wretched materials they have to work with, it appears, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page285" id="page285"></a>[pg 285]</span> +that their invention and dexterity, in all manual works, are +at least equal to that of any other nation.</p> + +<p>The food which we saw them eat, was dried fish, and +the flesh of some animal, either broiled or roasted. Some +of the latter that was bought, seemed to be bear's flesh, but +with a fishy taste. They also eat the larger sort of fern +root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked, or dressed in +some other way; and some of our people saw them eat +freely of a substance which they supposed to be the inner +part of the pine-bark. Their drink is most probably water; +for in their boats they brought snow in the wooden +vessels, which they swallowed by mouthfuls. Perhaps it +could be carried with less trouble in these open vessels, +than water itself. Their method of eating seems decent +and cleanly; for they always took care to separate any dirt +that might adhere to their victuals. And though they +sometimes did eat the raw fat of some sea-animal, they cut +it carefully into mouthfuls, with their small knives. The +same might be said of their persons, which, to appearance, +were always clean and decent, without grease or dirt; and +the wooden vessels, in which their victuals are probably +put, were kept in excellent order, as well as their boats, +which were neat, and free from lumber.</p> + +<p>Their language seems difficult to be understood at first; +not from any indistinctness or confusion in their words and +sounds, but from the various significations they have. For +they appeared to use the very same word, frequently, on +very different occasions; though doubtless this might, if +our intercourse had been of longer duration, have been +found to be a mistake on our side. The only words I could +obtain, and for them I am indebted to Mr Anderson,<a id="footnotetag74" name="footnotetag74"></a><a href="#footnote74"><sup>3</sup></a> were +those that follow; the first of which was also used at +Nootka, in the same sense; though we could not trace an +affinity between the two dialects in any other instance.</p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page286" id="page286"></a>[pg 286]</span> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">Akashou,</td><td align="left"><i>What's the name of that?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Namuk,</td><td align="left"><i>An ornament for the ear.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Lukluk,</td><td align="left"><i>A brown shaggy skin, perhaps a bear's.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Aa,</td><td align="left"><i>Yes.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Natooneshuk,</td><td align="left"><i>The skin of a sea-otter.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Keeta,</td><td align="left"><i>Give me something.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Naema,</td><td align="left"><i>Give me something in exchange</i>, or <i>barter</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Of</i>, or <i>belonging to me.—Will</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Ooonaka,</td><td align="left"><i>you barter for this that belongs to me?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Manaka,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Ahleu,</td><td align="left"><i>A spear.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Weena, <i>or</i> Veena,</td><td align="left"><i>Stranger—calling to one.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Keelashuk,</td><td align="left"><i>Guts of which they make jackets.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tawuk,</td><td align="left"><i>Keep it.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>A piece of white bear's skin</i>, or</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Amilhtoo,</td><td align="left"><i>perhaps the hair that covered it.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Whaehai,</td><td align="left"><i>Shall I keep it? do you give it me?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Yaut,</td><td align="left"><i>I'll go</i>; or <i>shall I go?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Chilke,</td><td align="left"><i>One.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Taiha,</td><td align="left"><i>Two.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tokke,</td><td align="left"><i>Three.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">(Tinke,)</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Chukelo,<a id="footnotetag75" name="footnotetag75"></a><a href="#footnote75"><sup>4</sup></a></td><td align="left"><i>Four?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Koeheene,</td><td align="left"><i>Five?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Takulai,</td><td align="left"><i>Six?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Keichilho,</td><td align="left"><i>Seven?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Klu, <i>or</i> Kliew,</td><td align="left"><i>Eight?</i></td></tr> +</table> + +<p>As to the animals of this part of the continent, the same +must be understood as of those at Nootka; that is, that +the knowledge we have of them is entirely taken from the +skins which the natives brought to sell. These were chiefly +of seals; a few foxes; the whitish cat, or <i>lynx</i>; common +and pine-martins; small ermines; bears; racoons; and +sea-otters. Of these, the most common were the martin, +racoon, and sea-otter skins, which composed the ordinary +dress of the natives; but the skins of the first, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page287" id="page287"></a>[pg 287]</span> +in general were of a much lighter brown than those at +Nootka, were far superior to them in fineness; whereas the +last, which, as well as the martins, were far more plentiful +than at Nootka, seemed greatly inferior in the fineness and +thickness of their fur, though they greatly exceeded them +in size, and were almost all of the glossy black sort, which +is doubtless the colour most esteemed in those skins. Bear +and seal skins were also pretty common, and the last were +in general white, very beautifully spotted with black, or +sometimes simply white; and many of the bears here were +of a brown, or sooty colour.</p> + +<p>Besides these animals, which were all seen at Nootka, +there are some others in this place which we did not find +there; such as the white bear, of whose skins the natives +brought several pieces, and some entire skins of cubs, from +which their size could not be determined. We also found +the wolverene, or quickhatch, which had very bright colours; +a larger sort of ermine than the common one, which +is the same as at Nootka, varied with a brown colour, and +with scarcely any black on its tail. The natives also +brought the skin of the head of some very large animal; +but it could not be positively determined what it was; +though, from the colour and shagginess of the hair, and its +unlikeness to any land animal, we judged it might probably +be that of the large male ursine seal, or sea-bear. But +one of the most beautiful skins, and which seems peculiar +to this place, as we never saw it before, is that of a small +animal about ten inches long, of a brown or rusty colour +on the back, with a great number of obscure whitish specks, +and the sides of a blueish ash colour, also with a few of +these specks. The tail is not above a third of the length, +of its body, and is covered with hair of a whitish colour at +the edges. It is no doubt the same with those called +spotted field mice, by Mr Stæhlin,<a id="footnotetag76" name="footnotetag76"></a><a href="#footnote76"><sup>5</sup></a> in his short account of +the New Northern Archipelago. But whether they be +really of the mouse kind, or a squirrel, we could not tell, +for want of perfect skins; though Mr Anderson was inclined +to think that it is the same animal described under +the name of the <i>Casan</i> marmot, by Mr Pennant. The +number of skins we found here, points out the great plenty +of these several animals just mentioned; but it is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page288" id="page288"></a>[pg 288]</span> +remarkable, that we neither saw the skins of the mouse nor of the +common deer.</p> + +<p>Of the birds mentioned at Nootka, we found here only +the white-headed eagle, the shag, the <i>alcyon</i>, or great kingfisher, +which had very fine bright colours, and the humming-bird, +which came frequently and flew about the ship, +while at anchor, though it can scarcely live here in the winter, +which must be very severe. The water-fowls were +geese, a small sort of duck, almost like that mentioned at +Kerguelen's Land; another sort which none of us knew; +and some of the black seapyes, with red bills, which we +found at Van Diemen's Land and New Zealand. Some +of the people who went on shore, killed a grouse, a snipe, +and some plover. But though, upon the whole, the water-fowls +were pretty numerous, especially the ducks and +geese, which frequent the shores, they were so shy, that it +was scarcely possible to get within shot; so that we obtained +a very small supply of them as refreshment. The +duck mentioned above is as large as the common wild-duck, +of a deep black colour, with a short pointed tail, and +red feet. The bill is white, tinged with red toward the +point, and has a large black spot, almost square, near its +base, on each side, where it is also enlarged or distended. +And on the forehead is a large triangular while spot, with +one still larger on the back part of the neck. The female +has much duller colours, and none of the ornaments of the +bill, except the two black spots, which are obscure.</p> + +<p>There is likewise a species of diver here, which seems +peculiar to the place. It is about the size of a partridge, +has a short, black, compressed bill, with the head and upper +part of the neck of a brown black, the rest of a deep +brown, obscurely waved with black, except the under-part, +which is entirely of a blackish cast, very minutely varied +with white; the other (perhaps the female) is blacker +above, and whiter below. A small land bird, of the finch +kind, about the size of a yellow-hammer, was also found; +but was suspected to be one of those which change their +colour with the season, and with their migrations. At this +time, it was of a dusky brown colour, with a reddish tail, +and the supposed male had a large yellow spot on the +crown of the head, with some varied black on the upper +part of the neck; but the last was on the breast of the +female.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page289" id="page289"></a>[pg 289]</span> + +<p>The only fish we got were some torsk and halibut, which +were chiefly brought by the natives to sell; and we caught +a few sculpins about the ship, with some purplish star-fish, +that had seventeen or eighteen rays. The rocks were observed +to be almost destitute of shell-fish; and the only +other animal of this tribe seen, was a red crab, covered +with spines of a very large size.</p> + +<p>The metals we saw were copper and iron; both which, +particularly the latter, were in such plenty, as to constitute +the points of most of the arrows and lances. The +ores, with which they painted themselves, were a red, brittle, +unctuous ochre, or iron-ore, not much unlike cinnabar +in colour; a bright blue pigment, which we did not procure; +and black-lead. Each of these seems to be very +scarce, as they brought very small quantities of the first +and last, and seemed to keep them with great care.</p> + +<p>Few vegetables of any kind were seen; and the trees +which chiefly grew here, were the Canadian and spruce-pine, +and some of them tolerably large.</p> + +<p>The beads and iron found amongst these people, left no +room to doubt, that they must have received them from +some civilized nation. We were pretty certain, from circumstances +already mentioned, that we were the first Europeans +with whom they had ever communicated directly; +and it remains only to be decided, from what quarter they +had got our manufactures by intermediate conveyance. +And there cannot be the least doubt of their having received +these articles, through the intervention of the more +inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the settlements on +the Canadian lakes; unless it can be supposed, (which, +however, is less likely,) that the Russian traders, from +Kamtschatka, have already extended their traffic thus far; +or at least that the natives of their most easterly fox islands +communicate along the coast with those of Prince William's +Sound.<a id="footnotetag77" name="footnotetag77"></a><a href="#footnote77"><sup>6</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page290" id="page290"></a>[pg 290]</span> + +<p>As to the copper, these people seem to procure it themselves, +or at most it passes through few hands to them; +for they used to express its being in a sufficient quantity +amongst them, when they offered any to barter, by pointing +to their weapons; as if to say, that having so much of +this metal of their own, they wanted no more.</p> + +<p>It is, however, remarkable, if the inhabitants of this +Sound be supplied with European articles, by way of the +intermediate traffic to the east coast, that they should, in +return, never have given to the more inland Indians any of +their sea-otter skins, which would certainly have been seen, +some time or other, about Hudson's Bay. But, as far as I +know, that is not the case; and the only method of accounting +for this, must be by taking into consideration the +very great distance, which, though it might not prevent +European goods coming so far, as being so uncommon, +might prevent the skins, which are a common article, from +passing through more than two or three different tribes, +who might use them for their own cloathing, and send +others, which they esteemed less valuable, as being of their +own animals, eastward, till they reach the traders from +Europe.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote72" name="footnote72"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag72"> (return) </a><p>Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. i. p. 136-138. The reader will +find in Crantz many very striking instances, in which the Greenlanders, +and Americans of Prince William's Sound, resemble each other, besides +those mentioned in this Section by Captain Cook. The dress of the people +of Prince William's Sound, as described by Captain Cook, also agrees +with that of the inhabitants of Schumagin's Islands, discovered by +Beering +in 1741. Muller's words are, "Leur habillement étoit de boyaux de baleines +pour le haut du corps, et de peaux de chiens-marins pour le +bas."—<i>Découvertes +des Russes</i>, p. 274.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote73" name="footnote73"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag73"> (return) </a><p>The rattling-ball found by Steller, who attended Beering in 1741, +at +no great distance from this Sound, seems to be for a similar use. See +Muller, p, 256.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote74" name="footnote74"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag74"> (return) </a><p>We are also indebted to him for many remarks in this Section, +interwoven +with those of Captain Cook, as throwing considerable light on +many parts of his journal.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote75" name="footnote75"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag75"> (return) </a><p>With regard to these numerals, Mr Anderson observes, that the +words corresponding to ours, are not certain after passing <i>three</i>; and +therefore he marks those, about whose position he is doubtful, with a +point of interrogation.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote76" name="footnote76"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag76"> (return) </a><p>In his account of Kodjak, p. 32 and 34.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote77" name="footnote77"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag77"> (return) </a><p>There is a circumstance mentioned by Muller, in his account of +Beering's voyage to the coast of America in 1741, which seems to decide +this question. His people found iron at the Schumagin Islands, as may +be fairly presumed from the following quotation: "Un seul homme avoit +un couteau pendu à sa ceinture, qui parut fort singulier à nos gens par sa +figure. Il étoit long de huit pouces, et fort épais, et large à l'endroit où +devoit être la pointe. On ne pent savoir quel étoit l'usage de cet +outil." <i>Découvertes des Russes</i>, p. 274.</p> + +<p>If there was iron amongst the natives on this part of the American +coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and before there was +any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka, what reason can +there be to make the least doubt of the people of Prince William's +Sound, as well as those of Schumagin's Islands, having got this metal +from the only probable source, the European settlements on the north-east +coast of this continent?—D.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page291" id="page291"></a>[pg 291]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION VI.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Progress along the Coast.—Cape Elizabeth.—Cape St Hermogenes.—Accounts +of Beering's Voyage very defective.—Point +Banks—Cape Douglas.—Cape Bede.—Mount St +Augustin.—Hopes of finding a Passage up an Inlet.—The +Ships proceed up it.—Indubitable Marks of its being a River.—Named +Cook's River.—The Ships return down it.—Various +Visits from the Natives.—Lieutenant King lands, +and takes Possession of the Country.—His Report.—The +Resolution runs aground on a Shoal.—Reflections on the +Discovery of Cook's River.—The considerable Tides in it accounted +for.</i></blockquote> + +<p>After leaving Prince William's Sound, I steered to the +S.W., with a gentle breeze at N.N.E.; which, at four +o'clock, the next morning, was succeeded by a calm, and +soon after, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from S.W. +This freshening, and veering to N.W., we still continued +to stretch to the S.W., and passed a lofty promontory, situated +in the latitude of 59° 10', and the longitude of 207° +45'. As the discovery of it was connected with the Princess +Elizabeth's birth-day, I named it <i>Cape Elizabeth</i>. Beyond +it we could see no land; so that, at first, we were in hopes +that it was the western extremity of the continent; but not +long after, we saw our mistake, for fresh land appeared in +sight, bearing W.S.W.</p> + +<p>The wind, by this time, had increased to a very strong +gale, and forced us to a good distance from the coast. In +the afternoon of the 22d, the gale abated, and we stood to +the northward for Cape Elizabeth, which at noon, the next +day, bore W., ten leagues distant. At the same time, a +new land was seen, bearing S. 77° W., which was supposed +to connect Cape Elizabeth with the land we had seen to +the westward.</p> + +<p>The wind continued at W., and I stood to the southward +till noon the next day, when we were within three leagues +of the coast which we had discovered on the 23d. It here +formed a point that bore W.N.W. At the same time more +land was seen extending to the southward, as far as S.S.W., +the whole being twelve or fifteen leagues distant. On it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page292" id="page292"></a>[pg 292]</span> +was seen a ridge of mountains covered with snow, extending +to the N.W., behind the first land, which we judged to +be an island, from the very inconsiderable quantity of snow +that lay upon it. This point of land is situated in the latitude +of 58° 15', and in the longitude of 207° 42'; and by +what I can gather from the account of Beering's voyage, +and the chart that accompanies it in the English edition,<a id="footnotetag78" name="footnotetag78"></a><a href="#footnote78"><sup>1</sup></a> +I conclude, that it must be what he called Cape St Hermogenes. +But the account of that voyage is so very much +abridged, and the chart so extremely inaccurate, that it is +hardly possible, either by the one or by the other, or by +comparing both together, to find out any one place which +that navigator either saw or touched at. Were I to form +a judgment of Beering's proceedings on this coast, I should +suppose that he fell in with the continent near Mount Fairweather. +But I am by no means certain, that the bay to +which I have given his name, is the place where he anchored. +Nor do I know, that what I called Mount St +Elias, is the same conspicuous mountain to which he gave +that name. And as to his Cape St Elias, I am entirely at +a loss to pronounce where it lies.<a id="footnotetag79" name="footnotetag79"></a><a href="#footnote79"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>On the N.E. side of Cape St Hermogenes, the coast +turned toward the N.W., and appeared to be wholly unconnected +with the land seen by us the preceding day. In +the chart above mentioned, there is here a space, where +Beering is supposed to have seen no land. This also favoured +the later account published by Mr Stæhlin, who +makes Cape St Hermogenes, and all the land that Beering +discovered to the S.W. of it, to be a cluster of islands; +placing St Hermogenes amongst those which are destitute +of wood. What we now saw seemed to confirm this, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page293" id="page293"></a>[pg 293]</span> +every circumstance inspired us with hopes of finding here +a passage northward, without being obliged to proceed any +farther to the S.W.</p> + +<p>We were detained off the Cape, by variable light airs +and calms, till two o'clock the next morning, when a breeze +springing up at N.E. we steered N.N.W. along the coast; +and soon found the land of Cape St Hermogenes to be an +island, about six leagues in circuit, separated from the adjacent +coast by a channel only one league broad. A league +and a half to the north of this island, lie some rocks above +water; on the N.E. side of which we had from thirty to +twenty fathoms.</p> + +<p>At noon, the island of St Hermogenes bore S. 1/2 E. eight +leagues distant; and the land to the N.W. of it extended +from S. 1/2 W. to near W. In this last direction it ended +in a low point, now five leagues distant, which was called +<i>Point Banks</i>. The latitude of the ship, at this time, was +58° 41', and its longitude 207° 44'. In this situation, the +land, which was supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth with +this S.W. land, was in sight, bearing N.W. 1/2 N. I steered +directly for it; and, on a nearer approach, found it to be a +group of high islands and rocks, entirely unconnected with +any other land. They obtained the name of <i>Barren Isles</i>, +from their very naked appearance. Their situation is in the +latitude of 59°, and in a line with Cape Elizabeth and +Point Banks; three leagues distant from the former, and +five from the latter.</p> + +<p>I intended going through one of the channels that divide +these islands; but meeting with a strong current setting +against us, I bore up, and went to the leeward of them +all. Toward the evening, the weather, which had been +hazy all day, cleared up, and we got sight of a very lofty +promontory, whose elevated summit, forming two exceedingly +high mountains, was seen above the clouds. This +promontory I named <i>Cape Douglas</i>, in honour of my very +good friend, Dr Douglas, canon of Windsor.<a id="footnotetag80" name="footnotetag80"></a><a href="#footnote80"><sup>3</sup></a> It is situated +in the latitude of 58° 56', and in the longitude of 206° +10'; ten leagues to the westward of Barren Isles, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page294" id="page294"></a>[pg 294]</span> +twelve from Point Banks, in the direction of N.W. by W. +1/2 W.</p> + +<p>Between this point and Cape Douglas, the coast seemed +to form a large and deep bay; which, from some smoke +that had been seen on Point Banks, obtained the name of +<i>Smokey Bay</i>.</p> + +<p>At day-break, the next morning, being the 26th, having +got to the northward of the Barren Isles, we discovered +more land, extending from Cape Douglas to the north. It +formed a chain of mountains of vast height; one of which, +far more conspicuous than the rest, was named <i>Mount St +Augustin</i>. The discovery of this land did not discourage +us, as it was supposed to be wholly unconnected with the +land of Cape Elizabeth. For, in a N.N.E. direction, the +sight was unlimited by every thing but the horizon. We +also thought that there was a passage to the N.W., between, +Cape Douglas and Mount St Augustin. In short, it was +imagined, that the land on our larboard, to the N. of Cape +Douglas, was composed of a group of islands, disjoined by +so many channels, any one of which we might make use of +according as the wind should serve.</p> + +<p>With these flattering ideas, having a fresh-gale at N.N.E., +we stood to the N.W. till eight o'clock, when we clearly +saw, that what we had taken for islands were summits of +mountains, every where connected by lower land, which +the haziness of the horizon had prevented us from seeing +at a greater distance. This land was every where covered +with snow, from the tops of the hills down to the very sea-beach; +and had every other appearance of being part of a +great continent. I was now fully persuaded that I should +find no passage by this inlet; and my persevering in the +search of it here, was more to satisfy other people than to +confirm my own opinion.</p> + +<p>At this time Mount St Augustin bore N., 40 W., three +or four leagues distant. This mountain is of a conical figure, +and of very considerable height; but it remains undetermined +whether it be an island or part of the continent. +Finding that nothing could be done to the W., we +tacked, and stood over to Cape Elizabeth, under which we +fetched at half-past five in the afternoon. On the N. side +of Cape Elizabeth, between it and a lofty promontory, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page295" id="page295"></a>[pg 295]</span> +named Cape Bede,<a id="footnotetag81" name="footnotetag81"></a><a href="#footnote81"><sup>4</sup></a> is a bay, in the bottom of which there +appeared to be two snug harbours. We stood well into this +bay, where we might have anchored in twenty-three fathoms +water; but as I had no such view, we tacked and +stood to the westward, with the wind at N. a very strong +gale, attended by rain, and thick hazy weather.</p> + +<p>The next morning the gale abated; but the same weather +continued till three o'clock in the afternoon, when it +cleared up. Cape Douglas bore S.W. by W.; Mount St +Augustin W. 1/2 S.; and Cape Bede S., 15° E., five leagues +distant. In this situation, the depth of water was forty fathoms, +over a rocky bottom. From Cape Bede, the coast +trended N.E. by E. with a chain of mountains inland, extending +in the same direction. The land on the coast was +woody; and there seemed to be no deficiency of harbours. +But, what was not much in our favour, we discovered low +land in the middle of the inlet, extending from N.N.E. to +N.E. by E. 1/2 E. However, as this was supposed to be an +island, it did not discourage us. About this time we got a +light breeze southerly, and I steered to the westward of +this low land; nothing appeared to obstruct us in that direction. +Our soundings during the night were from thirty +to twenty-five fathoms.</p> + +<p>On the 28th, in the morning, having but very little wind, +and observing the ship to drive to the southward, in order +to stop her, I dropped a kedge-anchor, with an eight-inch +hawser bent to it. But, in bringing the ship up, the hawser +parted near the inner end; and we lost both it and the +anchor. For although we brought the ship up with one +of the bowers, and spent most of the day in sweeping for +them, it was to no effect. By an observation, we found our +station to be in the latitude of 59° 51'; the low land above +mentioned extended from N.E. to S., 75° E., the nearest +part two leagues distant. The land on the western shore +was about seven leagues distant, and extended from S. 35° +W., to N. 7° E.; so that the extent of the inlet was now +reduced to three points and a half of the compass; that is, +from N. 1/2 E. to N.E. Between these two points no land +was to be seen. Here was a strong tide setting to the +southward out of the inlet. It was the ebb, and ran +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page296" id="page296"></a>[pg 296]</span> +between three and four knots in an hour; and it was low water +at ten o'clock. A good deal of sea-weed, and some +drift-wood, were carried out with the tide. The water, too, +had become thick like that in rivers; but we were encouraged +to proceed, by finding it as salt at low water as the +ocean. The strength of the flood-tide was three knots, and +the stream ran up till four in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>As it continued calm all day, I did not move till eight +o'clock in the evening; when, with a light breeze at E., we +weighed, and stood to the N., up the inlet. We had not +been long under sail, before the wind veered to the N., increasing +to a fresh gale, and blowing in squalls, with rain. +This did not, however, hinder us from plying up as long as +the flood continued; which was till near five o'clock the +next morning. We had soundings from thirty-five to twenty-four +fathoms. In this last depth we anchored about two +leagues from the eastern shore, in the latitude of 60° 8'; +some low land, that we judged to be an island, lying under +the western shore, extended from N. 1/2 W. to N.W. by +N., distant three or four leagues.</p> + +<p>The weather had how become fair and tolerably clear, +so that we could see any land that might lie within our +horizon; and in a N.N.E. direction, no land, nor any thing +to obstruct our progress, was visible. But on each side was +a ridge of mountains, rising one behind another, without +the least separation. I judged it to be low water, by the +shore, about ten o'clock; but the ebb ran down till near +noon. The strength of it was four knots and a half; and it +fell, upon a perpendicular, ten feet three inches, that is; +while we lay at anchor; so that there is reason to believe +that this was not the greatest fall. On the eastern shore +we now saw two columns of smoke; a sure sign that there +were inhabitants.</p> + +<p>At one in the afternoon we weighed, and plied up under +double-reefed top-sails and courses, having a very strong +gale at N.N.E. nearly right down the inlet. We stretched +over to the western shore, and fetched within two leagues +of the south end of the low land, or island before mentioned, +under which I intended to have taken shelter till the +gale should cease. But falling suddenly into twelve fathoms +water, from upward of forty, and seeing the appearance +of a shoal ahead, spitting out from the low land, I +tacked, and stretched back to the eastward, and anchored +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page297" id="page297"></a>[pg 297]</span> +under that shore in nineteen fathoms water, over a bottom +of small pebble stones.</p> + +<p>Between one and two in the morning of the 30th, we +weighed again with the first of the flood, the gale having, +by this time quite abated, but still continuing contrary; so +that we plied up till near seven o'clock, when the tide being +done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, under the +same shore as before. The N.W. part of it, forming a bluff +point, bore N., 20° E., two leagues distant; a point on the +other shore opposite to it, and nearly of the same height, +bore N., 36° W.; our latitude, by observation, 60° 37'.</p> + +<p>About noon, two canoes, with a man in each, came off +to the ship from near the place where we had seen the +smoke the preceding day. They laboured very hard in paddling +across the strong tide, and hesitated a little before +they would come quite close; but upon signs being made +to them, they approached. One of them talked a great deal +to no purpose; for we did not understand a word he said. +He kept pointing to the shore, which we interpreted to be +an invitation to go thither. They accepted a few trifles +from me, which I conveyed to them from the quarter-gallery. +These men, in every respect, resembled the people +we had met with in Prince William's Sound, as to their +persons and dress. Their canoes were also of the same +construction. One of our visitors had his face painted jet +black, and seemed to have no beard; but the other, who +was more elderly, had no paint, and a considerable beard, +with a visage much like the common sort of the Prince +William's people. There was also smoke seen upon the flat +western shore this day, from whence we may infer that +these lower spots and islands are the only inhabited places.</p> + +<p>When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes +left us. I stood over to the western shore, with a fresh gale +at N.N.E., and fetched under the point above-mentioned. +This, with the other on the opposite shore, contracted the +channel to the breadth of four leagues. Through this channel +ran a prodigious tide. It looked frightful to us, who +could not tell whether the agitation of the water was occasioned +by the stream, or by the breaking of the waves +against rocks or sands. As we met with no shoal, it was +concluded to be the former; but, in the end, we found ourselves +mistaken. I now kept the western shore aboard, it +appearing to be the safest. Near the shore we had a depth +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page298" id="page298"></a>[pg 298]</span> +of thirteen fathoms; and two or three miles off, forty and +upwards. At eight in the evening, we anchored under a +point of land which bore N.E., three leagues distant, in fifteen +fathoms water. Here we lay during the ebb, which +ran near five knots in the hour.</p> + +<p>Until we got thus far, the water had retained the same +degree of saltness at low as at high water; and at both periods +was as salt as that in the ocean. But now the marks +of a river displayed themselves. The water taken up this +ebb, when at the lowest, was found to be very considerably +fresher than any we had hitherto tasted; insomuch that I +was convinced that we were in a large river, and not in a +strait, communicating with the northern seas. But as we +had proceeded thus far, I was desirous of having stronger +proofs; and therefore weighed with the next flood in the +morning of the 31st, and plied higher up, or rather drove +up with the tide; for we had but little wind.</p> + +<p>About eight o'clock, we were visited by several of the +natives, in one large and several small canoes. The latter +carried only one person each; and some had a paddle, +with a blade at each end, after the manner of the Esquimaux. +In the large canoes, were men, women, and children. +Before they reached the ship, they displayed a +leathern frock, upon a long pole, as a sign, as we understood +it, of their peaceable intentions. This frock they +conveyed into the ship, in return for some trifles which I +gave them. I could observe no difference between the persons, +dress, ornaments, and boats of these people, and those +of Prince William's Sound, except that the small canoes +were rather of a less size, and carried only one man. We +procured from them some of their fur dresses, made of the +skins of sea-otters, martins, hares, and other animals; a +few of their darts, and a small supply of salmon and halibut. +In exchange for these they took old clothes, beads, +and pieces of iron. We found that they were in possession +of large iron knives, and of sky-blue glass beads, such as +we had found amongst the natives of Prince William's +Sound. These latter they seemed to value much, and consequently +those which we now gave them. But their inclination +led them especially to ask for large pieces of iron; +which metal, if I was not much mistaken, they called by the +name of <i>goone</i>; though, like their neighbours in Prince +William's Sound, they seemed to have many significations +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page299" id="page299"></a>[pg 299]</span> +to one word. They evidently spoke the same language; as +the words <i>keeta</i>, <i>naema</i>, <i>oonaka</i>, and a few others of the most +common we heard in that Sound, were also frequently used +by this new tribe. After spending about two hours between +the one ship and the other, they all retired to the western +shore.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock, we came to an anchor, in sixteen fathoms +water, about two leagues from the west shore, and +found the ebb already begun. At its greatest strength, it +ran only three knots in the hour, and fell, upon a perpendicular, +after we had anchored, twenty-one feet. The weather +was misty, with drizzling rain, and clear, by turns. At +the clear intervals, we saw an opening between the mountains +on the eastern shore, bearing east from the station of +the ships, with low land, which we supposed to be islands +lying between us and the main land. Low land was also +seen to the northward, that seemed to extend from the +foot of the mountains on the one side to those on the +other; and at low water we perceived large shoals stretching +out from this low land, some of which were at no great +distance from us. From these appearances we were in +some doubt whether the inlet did not take an easterly direction +through the above opening; or whether that opening +was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued +its northern direction through the low land now in +sight. The continuation and direction of the chain of +mountains on each side of it, strongly indicated the probability +of the latter supposition.</p> + +<p>To determine this point, and to examine the shoals, I +dispatched two boats under the command of the master, +and as soon as the flood-tide made, followed with the +ships; but as it was a dead calm, and the tide strong, I +anchored, after driving about ten miles in an east direction. +At the lowest of the preceding ebb, the water at the +surface, and for near a foot below it, was found to be perfectly +fresh; retaining, however, a considerable degree of +saltness at a greater depth. Besides this, we had now many +other, and but too evident proofs of being in a great river; +such as low shores; very thick and muddy water; large +trees, and all manner of dirt and rubbish, floating up and +down with the tide. In the afternoon, the natives, in several +canoes, paid us another visit; and trafficked with our +people for some time, without ever giving us reason to accuse +them of any act of dishonesty.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page300" id="page300"></a>[pg 300]</span> + +<p>At two o'clock next morning, being the 1st of June, the +master returned, and reported, that he found the inlet, or +rather river, contracted to the breadth of one league, by +low land on each side, through which it took a northerly +direction. He proceeded three leagues through this narrow +part, which he found navigable for the largest ships, +being from twenty to seventeen fathoms deep. The least +water, at a proper distance from the shore and shoals, was +ten fathoms; and this was before he entered the narrow +part. While the ebb or stream run down, the water was +perfectly fresh; but after the flood made it became brackish; +and toward high water, very much so, even as high +up as he went. He landed upon an island, which lies between +this branch and the eastern one; and upon it saw +some currant bushes, with the fruit already set; and some +other fruit-trees and bushes, unknown to him. The soil +appeared to be clay, mixed with sand. About three leagues +beyond the extent of his search, or to the northward of it, +he observed there was another separation in the eastern +chain of mountains, through which he supposed the river +took a N.E. direction; but it seemed rather more probable +that this was only another branch, and that the main channel +kept its northern direction, between the two ridges or +chains of mountains before mentioned. He found that +these two ridges, as they extended to the north, inclined +more and more to each other, but never appeared to close; +nor was any elevated land seen between them, only low +land, part woody, and part clear.</p> + +<p>All hopes of finding a passage were now given up. But +as the ebb was almost spent, and we could not return +against the flood, I thought I might as well take the advantage +of the latter to get a nearer view of the eastern +branch; and by that means finally to determine, whether +the low land on the east side of the river was an island, as +we had supposed, or not. With this purpose in view, we +weighed with the first breeze of the flood, and having a +faint breeze at N.E. stood over for the eastern shore, with +boats ahead, sounding. Our depth was from twelve to +five fathoms; the bottom a hard gravel, though the water +was exceedingly muddy. At eight o'clock a fresh breeze +sprung up at east, blowing in an opposite direction to our +course; so that I despaired of reaching the entrance of +the river, to which we were plying up, before high water. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page301" id="page301"></a>[pg 301]</span> +But thinking, that what the ships could not do might be +done by boats, I dispatched two, under the command of +Lieutenant King, to examine the tides, and to make such +other observations as might give us some insight into the +nature of the river.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock, finding the ebb began, I anchored in +nine fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. Observing the +tide to be too strong for the boats to make head against +it, I made a signal for them to return on board, before +they had got half way to the entrance of the river they were +sent to examine, which bore from us S. 80° E., three +leagues distant. The principal information gained by this +tide's work, was the determining that all the low land, +which we had supposed to be an island or islands, was one +continued tract, from the banks of the great river to the +foot of the mountains, to which it joined; and that it terminated +at the south entrance of this eastern branch, +which I shall distinguish by the name of <i>River Turnagain</i>. +On the north side of this river, the low land again begins, +and stretches out from the foot of the mountains down to +the banks of the great river; so that, before the river Turnagain, +it forms a large bay, on the south side of which we +were now at anchor, and where we had from twelve to five +fathoms, from half-flood to high water.</p> + +<p>After we had entered the bay, the flood set strong into +the river Turnagain, and ebb came out with still greater +force; the water falling, while we lay at anchor, twenty +feet upon a perpendicular. These circumstances convinced +me, that no passage was to be expected by this side-river +anymore than by the main branch. However, as the water, +during the ebb, though very considerably fresher, had still +a strong degree of saltness, it is but reasonable to suppose, +that both these branches are navigable by ships much farther +than we examined them; and that by means of this +river, and its several branches, a very extensive inland communication +lies open. We had traced it as high as the latitude +of 61° 30', and the longitude of 210°; which is seventy +leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the +least appearance of its source.</p> + +<p>If the discovery of this great river,<a id="footnotetag82" name="footnotetag82"></a><a href="#footnote82"><sup>5</sup></a> which promises to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page302" id="page302"></a>[pg 302]</span> +vie with the most considerable ones already known to be +capable of extensive inland navigation, should prove of use +either to the present or to any future age, the time we +spent in it ought to be the less regretted. But to us, who +had a much greater object in view, the delay thus occasioned +was an essential loss. The season was advancing +apace. We knew not how far we might have to proceed +to the south; and we were now convinced, that the continent +of North America extended farther to the west, than +from the modern most reputable charts we had reason to +expect. This made the existence of a passage into Baffin's +or Hudson's Bay less probable, or at least shewed it to be +of greater extent. It was a satisfaction to me, however, to +reflect, that, if I had not examined this very considerable +inlet, it would have been assumed, by speculative fabricators +of geography, as a fact, that it communicated with the +sea to the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the +east; and been marked, perhaps, on future maps of the +world, with greater precision, and more certain signs of +reality, than the invisible, because imaginary, Straits of de +Fuca and de Fonte.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I sent Mr King again, with two armed +boats, with orders to land on the north-eastern point of the +low land, on the south-east side of the river; there to display +the flag; to take possession of the country and river +in his majesty's name; and to bury in the ground a bottle, +containing some pieces of English coin of the year 1772, +and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships, +and the date of our discovery. In the mean time, the ships +were got under sail, in order to proceed down the river. +The wind still blew fresh, easterly; but a calm ensued, not +long after we were under way; and the flood-tide meeting +us off the point where Mr King landed, (and which thence +got the name of <i>Point Possession</i>,) we were obliged to drop +anchor in six fathoms water, with the point bearing S., two +miles distant.</p> + +<p>When Mr King returned, he informed me, that as he +approached the shore, about twenty of the natives made +their appearance, with their arms extended; probably to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page303" id="page303"></a>[pg 303]</span> +express thus their peaceable disposition, and to shew that +they were without weapons. On Mr King's, and the gentlemen +with him, landing, with musquets in their hands, +they seemed alarmed, and made signs, expressive of their +request to lay them down. This was accordingly done; +and then they suffered the gentlemen to walk up to them, +and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had with +them a few pieces of fresh salmon, and several dogs. Mr +Law, surgeon of the Discovery, who was one of the party, +having bought one of the latter, took it down toward the +boat, and shot it dead, in their sight. This seemed to surprise +them exceedingly; and as if they did not think themselves +safe in such company, they walked away; but it was +soon after discovered, that their spears, and other weapons, +were hid in the bushes close behind them. Mr King also +informed me, that the ground was swampy, and the soil +poor, light, and black. It produced a few trees and shrubs; +such as pines, alders, birch, and willows; rose and currant +bushes; and a little grass; but they saw not a single plant +in flower.</p> + +<p>We weighed anchor as soon as it was high water, and, +with a faint breeze, southerly, stood over to the west shore, +where the return of the flood obliged us to anchor early +next morning. Soon after, several large, and some small +canoes, with natives, came off, who bartered their skins; +after which they sold their garments, till many of them +were quite naked. Amongst others, they brought a number +of white hare or rabbit skins; and very beautiful reddish +ones of foxes; but there were only two or three skins +of otters. They also sold us some pieces of salmon and halibut. +They preferred iron to every thing else offered to +them in exchange. The lip ornaments did not seem so frequent +amongst them as at Prince William's Sound; but +they had more of those which pass through the nose, and +in general these were also much longer. They had, however, +a greater quantity of a kind of white and red embroidered +work on some parts of their garments, and on +other things, such as their quivers and knife-cases.</p> + +<p>At half-past ten, we weighed with the first of the ebb, +and having a gentle breeze at south, plied down the river; +in the doing of which, by the inattention and neglect of +the man at the lead, the Resolution struck, and stuck fast +on a bank, that lies nearly in the middle of the river, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page304" id="page304"></a>[pg 304]</span> +about two miles above the two projecting bluff points before +mentioned. This bank was, no doubt, the occasion of +that very strong rippling, or agitation of the stream, which +we had observed when turning up the river. There was not +less than twelve feet depth of water about the ship, at the +lowest of the ebb, but other parts of the bank were dry. +As soon as the ship came aground, I made a signal for the +Discovery to anchor. She, as I afterward understood, had +been near ashore on the west side of the bank. As the +flood-tide came in, the ship floated off, soon after five +o'clock in the afternoon, without receiving the least damage, +or giving us any trouble; and, after standing over +to the west shore into deep water, we anchored to wait for +the ebb, as the wind was still contrary.</p> + +<p>We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night; +and, between four and five next morning, when the tide +was finished, once more cast anchor, about two miles below +the bluff point, on the west shore, in nineteen fathoms +water. A good many of the natives came off when we were +in this station, and attended upon us all the morning. +Their company was very acceptable; for they brought with +them a large quantity of very fine salmon, which they exchanged +for such trifles as we had to give them. Most of +it was split ready for drying; and several hundred weight +of it was procured for the two ships.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the mountains, for the first time since +our entering the river, were clear of clouds; and we discovered +a volcano in one of those on the west side. It is +in the latitude of 60° 23'; and it is the first high mountain +to the north of Mount St Augustin. The volcano is +on that side of it that is next the river, and not far from +the summit. It did not now make any striking appearance, +emitting only a white smoke, but no fire.</p> + +<p>The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it +down the river; and on the 5th, in the morning, coming +to the place where we had lost our kedge-anchor, made an +attempt to recover it, but without success. Before we left +this place, six canoes came off from the east shore; some +conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained +at a little distance from the ships, viewing them with a +kind of silent surprise, at least half an hour, without exchanging +a single word with us, or with one another. At +length they took courage, and came alongside; began to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page305" id="page305"></a>[pg 305]</span> +barter with our people; and did not leave us till they had +parted with every thing they brought with them, consisting +of a few skins and some salmon. And here it may not +be improper to remark, that all the people we had met with, +in this river, seemed, by every striking instance of resemblance, +to be of the same nation with those who inhabit +Prince William's Sound, but differing essentially from those +of Nootka, or King George's Sound, both in their persons +and language. The language of these is rather more guttural; +but, like the others, they speak strongly and distinct, +in words which seem sentences.</p> + +<p>I have before observed, that they are in possession of +iron; that is, they have the points of their spears and +knives of this metal; and some of the former are also made +of copper. Their spears are like our spontoons; and their +knives, which they keep in sheaths, are of a considerable +length. These, with a few glass beads, are the only things +we saw amongst them that were not of their own manufacture. +I have already offered my conjectures from whence +they derive their foreign articles; and shall only add here, +that if it were probable that they found their way to them +from such of their neighbours with whom the Russians +may have established a trade, I will be bold to say, the +Russians themselves have never been amongst them; for +if that had been the case, we should hardly have found +them clothed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter.</p> + +<p>There is not the least doubt, that a very beneficial fur-trade +might be carried on with the inhabitants of this vast +coast. But unless a northern passage should be found practicable, +it seems rather too remote for Great Britain to receive +any emolument from it. It must, however, be observed, +that the most valuable, or rather the only valuable +skins I saw on this west side of America, were those of the +sea-otter. All their other skins seemed to be of an inferior +quality; particularly those of their foxes and martins. It +must also be observed, that most of the skins which we +purchased were made up into garments. However, some of +these were in good condition; but others were old and ragged +enough; and all of them very lousy. But as these poor +people make no other use of skins but for clothing themselves, +it cannot be supposed that they are at the trouble +of dressing more of them than are necessary for this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page306" id="page306"></a>[pg 306]</span> +purpose. And, perhaps, this is the chief use for which they +kill the animals; for the sea and the rivers seem to supply +them with their principal articles of food. It would, probably, +be much otherwise, were they once habituated to a +constant trade with foreigners. This intercourse would increase +their wants, by introducing them to an acquaintance +with new luxuries; and, in order to be enabled to +purchase these, they would be more assiduous in procuring +skins, which they would soon discover to be the commodity +most sought for; and a plentiful supply of which, +I make no doubt, would be had in the country.</p> + +<p>It will appear, from what has been said occasionally of +the tide, that it is considerable in this river, and contributes +very much to facilitate the navigation of it. It is +high-water in the stream, on the days of the new and full +moon, between two and three o'clock; and the tide rises, +upon a perpendicular, between three and four fathoms. +The reason of the tide's being greater here than at other +parts of this coast, is easily accounted for. The mouth of +the river being situated in a corner of the coast, the flood +that comes from the ocean is forced into it by both shores, +and by that means swells the tide to a great height.</p> + +<p>The variation of the compass was 25° 40' E.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote78" name="footnote78"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag78"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook means Muller's, of which a translation had been +published +in London some time before be sailed.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote79" name="footnote79"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag79"> (return) </a><p>Mr Coxe, who has been at considerable pains in endeavouring to +reconcile +the accounts of Muller and Steller, and in comparing them with +the journals of Cook and Vancouver, is induced to conjecture that Beering +first discovered the continent of America in the neighbourhood of +Kaye's Island, and not where Captain Cook assigns. This is a very probable +opinion, as might easily be shewn, but not without anticipating matter +that belongs to another voyage. It is enough just now to hint at the +circumstance, lest the remarks of Cook, always well entitled to respect, +should be too much confided in by the reader. No man's judgment is to +be disparaged, because of an error committed, where so little information +has been given for its guidance.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote80" name="footnote80"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag80"> (return) </a><p>The reader of course is aware, that this gentleman, afterwards +successively +Bishop of Carlisle and Salisbury, is the person to whom we are +indebted for the original edition of this voyage, as we have elsewhere +mentioned.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote81" name="footnote81"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag81"> (return) </a><p>In naming this and Mount St Augustin, Captain Cook was directed +by our Calendar.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote82" name="footnote82"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag82"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook having here left a blank which he had not filled up +with any particular name, Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, +that it should be called <i>Cook's River</i>.—D.</p> + +<p>Some readers may require to be informed, that, for reasons +mentioned +in the account of his voyage, Captain Vancouver has called it <i>Cook's +Inlet</i>.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION VII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Discoveries after leaving Cook's River.—Island of St Hermogenes.—Cape +Whitsunday.—Cape Greville.—Cape Barnabas.—Two-headed +Point.—Trinity Island.—Beering's Foggy +Island.—A beautiful Bird described.—Kodiak and the +Schumagin Islands.—A Russian Letter brought on Board +by a Native.—Conjectures about it.—Rock Point.—Halibut +Island.—A Volcano Mountain.—Providential Escape.—Arrival +of the Ships at Oonalaschka.—Intercourse with +the Natives there.—Another Russian Letter.—Samganoodha +Harbour described.</i></blockquote> + +<p>As soon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed, +and, with a light breeze, between W.S.W., and S.S.W., +plied down the river, till the flood obliged us to anchor +again. At length, about one o'clock next morning, a fresh +breeze sprung up at W., with which we got under sail, and, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page307" id="page307"></a>[pg 307]</span> +at eight, passed the Barren Islands, and stretched away for +Cape St Hermogenes. At noon, this cape bore S.S.E., +eight leagues distant; and the passage between the island +of that name, and the main land, bore S. For this passage +I steered, intending to go through it. But soon after the +wind failed us, and we had baffling light airs from the eastward, +so that I gave up my design of carrying the ships between +the island and the main.</p> + +<p>At this time we saw several columns of smoke on the coast +of the continent, to the northward of the passage; and, +most probably, they were meant as signals to attract us thither. +Here the land forms a bay, or perhaps a harbour, off +the N.W. point of which lies a low, rocky island. There +are also some other islands of the same appearance, scattered +along the coast, between this place and Point Banks.</p> + +<p>At eight in the evening, the island of St Hermogenes extended +from S. 1/2 E. to S.S.E. 1/4 E., and the rocks that lie +on the N. side of it bore S.E., three miles distant. In this +situation, we had forty fathoms water over a bottom of sand +and shells. Soon after, on putting over hooks and lines, we +caught several halibut.</p> + +<p>At midnight, being past the rocks, we bore up to the +southward, and, at noon, St Hermogenes bore N., four +leagues distant. At this time, the southernmost point of the +main land, within or to the westward of St Hermogenes, lay +N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. This promontory, which is +situated in the latitude of 58° 15', and in the longitude of +207° 24', was named, after the day, <i>Cape Whitsunday</i>. A +large bay, which lies to the W. of it, obtained the name of +<i>Whitsuntide Bay</i>. The land on the E. side of this bay, of +which Cape Whitsunday is the most southern point, and +Point Banks the northern one, is, in all respects, like the +island of St Hermogenes, seemingly destitute of wood, and +partly free from snow. It was supposed to be covered with +a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. There were +some reasons to think it was an island. If this be so, the +last-mentioned bay is only the strait or passage that separates +it from the main land.<a id="footnotetag83" name="footnotetag83"></a><a href="#footnote83"><sup>1</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page308" id="page308"></a>[pg 308]</span> + +<p>Between one and two in the afternoon, the wind, which +had been at N.E., shifted at once to the southward. It was +unsettled till six, when it fixed at S., which was the very direction +of our course, so that we were obliged to ply up the +coast. The weather was gloomy, and the air dry, but cold. +We stood to the eastward till midnight, then tacked, and +stood in for the land; and, between seven and eight in the +morning of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and +not more than half a league from some sunken rocks, which +bore W.S.W. In this situation we tacked in thirty-five +fathoms water, the island of St Hermogenes bearing N. 20° +E., and the southernmost land in sight, S.</p> + +<p>In standing in for this coast, we crossed the mouth of +Whitsuntide Bay, and saw land all round the bottom of it, +so that either the land is connected, or else the points lock +in, one behind another. I am more inclined to think, that +the former is the case, and that the land, east of the bay, +is a part of the continent. Some small islands lie on the +west of the bay. The sea-coast to the southward of it is rather +low, with projecting rocky points, between which are +small bays or inlets. There was no wood, and but little +snow upon the coast; but the mountains, which lie at some +distance inland, were wholly covered with the latter. We +stood off till noon, then tacked, and stood in for the land. +The latitude, at this time, was 57° 52-1/2'; Cape St Hermogenes +bore N. 30° W., eight leagues distant, and the southernmost +part of the coast in sight; the same that was seen +before, bore S.W., ten leagues distant. The land here +forms a point, which was named <i>Cape Greville</i>. It lies in +the latitude of 57° 33', and in the longitude of 207° 15', and +is distant fifteen leagues from Cape St Hermogenes, in the +direction of S. 17° W.</p> + +<p>The three following days we had almost constant misty +weather, with drizzling rain, so that we seldom had a sight +of the coast. The wind was S.E. by S., and S.S.E., a gentle +breeze, and the air raw and cold. With this wind and +weather, we continued to ply up the coast, making boards +of six or eight leagues each. The depth of water was from +thirty to fifty-five fathoms, over a coarse, black sandy bottom.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page309" id="page309"></a>[pg 309]</span> + +<p>The fog clearing up, with the change of the wind to +S.W., in the evening of the 12th, we had a sight of the land +bearing W., twelve leagues distant. We stood in for it +early next morning. At noon we were not above three miles +from it; an elevated point, which obtained the name of +<i>Cape Barnabas</i>, lying in the latitude of 57° 13', bore N.N. +E. 1/2 E., ten miles distant, and the coast extended from N. +42° E., to W.S.W. The N.E. extreme was lost in a haze, +but the point to the S.W., whose elevated summit terminated +in two round hills, on that account was called <i>Two-headed +Point</i>. This part of the coast, in which are several +small bays, is composed of high hills and deep valleys, and +in some places we could see the tops of other hills, beyond +those that form the coast, which was but little encumbered +with snow, but had a very barren appearance. Not a tree +or bush was to be seen upon it; and, in general, it had a +brownish hue, probably the effect of a mossy covering.</p> + +<p>I continued to ply to the S.W. by W., as the coast trended, +and, at six in the evening, being midway between Cape +Barnabas and Two-headed Point, and two leagues from the +shore, the depth of water was sixty-two fathoms. From this +station, a low point of land made its appearance beyond +Two-headed Point, bearing S. 69° W., and, without it, other +land that had the appearance of an island, bore S. 59° W.</p> + +<p>At noon, on the 13th, being in latitude 56° 49', Cape St +Barnabas bore N. 52° E., Two-headed Point, N. 14° W., +seven or eight miles distant, and the coast of the continent +extended as far as S. 72 1/2 W., and the land seen the preceding +evening, and supposed to be an island, now appeared +like two islands. From whatever quarter Two-headed +Point was viewed, it had the appearance of being an island, +or else it is a peninsula, on each side of which the shore +forms a bay. The wind still continued westerly, a gentle +breeze, the weather rather dull and cloudy, and the air +sharp and dry.</p> + +<p>We were well up with the southernmost land next morning, +and found it to be an island, which was named <i>Trinity +Island</i>. Its greatest extent is six leagues in the direction of +E. and W. Each end is elevated naked land, and in the +middle it is low, so that, at a distance, from some points of +view, it assumes the appearance of two islands. It lies in +the latitude of 56° 36', and in the longitude of 205°, and +between two and three leagues from the continent, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page310" id="page310"></a>[pg 310]</span> +space is interspersed with small islands and rocks, but there +seemed to be good passage enough, and also safe anchorage. +At first we were inclined to think, that this was Beering's +<i>Foggy Island</i>,<a id="footnotetag84" name="footnotetag84"></a><a href="#footnote84"><sup>2</sup></a> but its situation so near the main does +not suit his chart.</p> + +<p>At eight in the evening, we stood in for the land, till we +were within a league of the above-mentioned small islands. +The westernmost part of the continent now in sight, being +a low point facing Trinity Island, and which we called <i>Cape +Trinity</i>, now bore W.N.W. In this situation, having tacked +in fifty-four fathoms water, over a bottom of black sand, +we stood over for the island, intending to work up between +it and the main. The land to the westward of Two-headed +Point, is not so mountainous as it is to the N.E. of it, nor +does so much snow lie upon it. There are, however, a good +many hills considerably elevated, but they are disjoined by +large tracts of flat land that appeared to be perfectly destitute +of wood, and very barren.</p> + +<p>As we were standing over toward the island, we met two +men in a small canoe, paddling from it to the main. Far +from approaching us, they seemed rather to avoid it. The +wind now began to incline to the S., and we had reason to +expect, that it would soon be at the S.E. Experience having +taught us, that a south-easterly wind was here generally, +if not always, accompanied by a thick fog, I was +afraid to venture through between the island and the continent, +lest the passage should not be accomplished before +night, or before the thick weather came on, when we should +be obliged to anchor, and by that means lose the advantage +of a fair wind. These reasons induced me to stretch out to +sea, and we passed two or three rocky islets that lie near +the east end of Trinity Island. At four in the afternoon, +having weathered the island, we tacked, and steered west-southerly, +with a fresh gale at S.S.E., which, before midnight, +veered to the S.E., and was, as usual, attended with +misty, drizzling, rainy weather.</p> + +<p>By the course we steered all night, I was in hopes of falling +in with the continent in the morning. And, doubtless, +we should have seen it, had the weather been in the least +clear, but the fog prevented. Seeing no land at noon, and +the gale increasing, with a thick fog and rain, I steered +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page311" id="page311"></a>[pg 311]</span> +W.N.W., under such sail as we could easily haul the wind +with, being fully sensible of the danger of running before +a strong gale in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown +coast. It was, however, necessary to run some risk when +the wind favoured us; for clear weather, we had found, was +generally accompanied with winds from the west.</p> + +<p>Between two and three in the afternoon, land was seen +through the fog, bearing N.W., not more than three or four +miles distant. Upon this, we immediately hauled up south, +close to the wind. Soon after, the two courses were split, +so that we had others to bring to the yards, and several +others of our sails received considerable damage. At nine, +the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and we lost sight +of the coast again, extending from W. by S. to N.W., +about four or five leagues distant. On sounding, we found +a hundred fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. Soon after, +the fog returned, and we saw no more of the land all +night.</p> + +<p>At four next morning, the fog being now dispersed, we +found ourselves in a manner surrounded by land; the continent, +or what was supposed to be the continent, extending +from W.S.W. to N.E. by N., and some elevated land +bearing S.E. 1/2 S., by estimation eight or nine leagues distant. +The N.E. extreme of the main was the same point +of land that we had fallen in with during the fog, and we +named it <i>Foggy Cape</i>. It lies in latitude 56° 31'. At this +time, having had but little wind all night, a breeze sprung +up at N.W. With this we stood to the southward, to make +the land, seen in that direction, plainer.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock, we found it to be an island of about nine +leagues in compass, lying in the latitude of 56° 10', and in the +longitude of 202° 46'; and it is distinguished in our chart by the +name of <i>Foggy Island</i>, having reason to believe, from +its situation, that it is the same which had that name given +to it by Beering. At the same time, three or four islands, +lying before a bay, formed by the coast of the main land; +bore N. by W.; a point, with three or four pinnacle rocks +upon it, which was called <i>Pinnacle Point</i>, bore N.W. by +W.; and a cluster of small islets, or rocks, lying about nine +leagues from the coast, S.S.E.</p> + +<p>At noon, when our latitude was 56° 9', and our longitude +201° 45', these rocks bore S. 58' E., ten miles distant; Pinnacle +Point, N.N.W., distant seven leagues; the nearest +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page312" id="page312"></a>[pg 312]</span> +part of the main land N.W. by W., six leagues distant; and +the most advanced land to the S.W., which had the appearance +of being an island, bore W., a little southerly. In +the afternoon, we had little or no wind, so that our progress +was inconsiderable. At eight in the evening, the coast extended +from S.W. to N.N.E., the nearest part about eight +leagues distant.</p> + +<p>On the 17th, the wind was between W. and N.W., a +gentle breeze, and sometimes almost calm. The weather +was clear, and the air sharp and dry. At noon, the continent +extended from S.W. to N. by E., the nearest part seven +leagues distant. A large group of islands lying about +the same distance from the continent, extended from S. +26° W. to S. 52° W.</p> + +<p>It was calm great part of the 18th, and the weather was +clear and pleasant. We availed ourselves of this, by making +observations for the longitude and variation. The latter was +found to be 21° 27' E. There can be no doubt that there +is a continuation of the continent between Trinity Island +and Foggy Cape, which the thick weather prevented us +from seeing. For some distance to the S.W., of that cape, +this country is more broken or rugged than any part we had +yet seen, both with respect to the hills themselves, and to +the coast, which seemed full of creeks, or small inlets, none +of which appeared to be of any great depth. Perhaps, +upon a closer examination, some of the projecting points +between these inlets will be found to be islands. Every +part had a very barren aspect, and was covered with snow, +from the summits of the highest hills, down to a very small +distance from the sea coast.</p> + +<p>Having occasion to send a boat on board the Discovery, +one of the people in her shot a very beautiful bird of the +hawk kind. It is somewhat less than a duck, and of a black +colour, except the fore-part of the head, which is white, +and from above and behind each eye arises an elegant yellowish-white +crest, revolved backward as a ram's horn. The +bill and feet are red. It is, perhaps, the <i>alca monochroa</i> of +Steller, mentioned in the history of Kamtschatka.<a id="footnotetag85" name="footnotetag85"></a><a href="#footnote85"><sup>3</sup></a> I think +the first of these birds was seen by us a little to the southward +of Cape St Hermogenes. From that time, we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page313" id="page313"></a>[pg 313]</span> +generally saw some of them every day, and sometimes in large +flocks. Besides these, we daily saw most of the other sea-birds, +that are commonly found in other northern oceans, +such as gulls, shags, puffins, sheerwaters, and sometimes +ducks, geese, and swans. And seldom a day passed without +seeing seals, whales, and ether large fish.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, we got a light breeze of wind southerly, +which enabled us to steer W., for the channel that appeared +between the islands and the continent; and, at day-break +next morning, we were at no great distance from it, +and found several other islands, within those already seen +by us, of various extent both in height and circuit. But +between these last islands, and those before seen, there +seemed to be a clear channel, for which I steered, being +afraid to keep the coast of the continent aboard, lest we +should mistake some point of it for an island, and, by that +means, be drawn into some inlet, and lose the advantage of +the fair wind, which at this time blew.</p> + +<p>I therefore kept along the southernmost chain of islands, +and at noon we were in the latitude of 55° 18', and in the +narrowest part of the channel, formed by them and those +which lie along the continent, where it is about a league +and a half, or two leagues over. The largest island in this +group was now on our left, and is distinguished by the +name of <i>Kodiak</i>,<a id="footnotetag86" name="footnotetag86"></a><a href="#footnote86"><sup>4</sup></a> according to the information we afterwards +received. I left the rest of them without names. I +believe them to be the same that Beering calls Schumagin's +Islands,<a id="footnotetag87" name="footnotetag87"></a><a href="#footnote87"><sup>5</sup></a> or those which he called by that name, to be a +part of them, for this group is pretty extensive. We saw +islands as far to the southward as an island could be seen. +They commence in the longitude of 200° 15' E., and extend +a degree and a half, or two degrees, to the westward. +I cannot be particular, as we could not distinguish all the +islands from the coast of the continent. Most of these +islands are of a good height, very barren and rugged, +abounding with rocks and steep cliffs, and exhibiting other +romantic appearances. There are several snug bays and +coves about them, streams of fresh water run from their +elevated parts, some drift-wood was floating around, but not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page314" id="page314"></a>[pg 314]</span> +a tree or bush was to be seen growing on the land. A good +deal of snow still lay on many of them, and the parts of the +continent, which shewed themselves between the innermost +islands, were quite covered with it.<a id="footnotetag88" name="footnotetag88"></a><a href="#footnote88"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon, we had passed all the islands +that lay to the southward of us; the southernmost, at this +time, bearing S. 5° E., and the westernmost point of land +now in sight, S. 82° W. For this point we steered, and +passed between it and two or three elevated rocks that lie +about a league to the east of it.</p> + +<p>Some time after we had got through this channel, in +which we found forty fathoms water, the Discovery, now +about two miles astern, fired three guns, and brought-to, +and made a signal to speak with us. This alarmed me not +a little; and, as no apparent danger had been remarked in +the passage through the channel, it was apprehended that +some accident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. +A boat was immediately sent to her, and in a short +time returned with Captain Clerke. I now learned from +him, that some natives, in three or four canoes, who had +been following the ship for some time, at length got under +his stern. One of them then made many signs, taking off +his cap, and bowing, after the manner of Europeans. A rope +being handed down from the ship, to this he fastened a +small thin wooden case or box, and having delivered this +safe, and spoken something, and made some more signs, +the canoes dropped astern, and left the Discovery. No one +on board her had any suspicion that the box contained any +thing, till after the departure of the canoes, when it was accidentally +opened, and a piece of paper was found, folded +up carefully, upon which something was written in the Russian +language, as was supposed. The date 1778 was prefixed +to it, and, in the body of the written note, there was a reference +to the year 1776. Not learned enough to decypher +the alphabet of the writer, his numerals marked sufficiently +that others had preceded us in visiting this dreary part of +the globe, who were united to us by other ties besides those +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page315" id="page315"></a>[pg 315]</span> +of our common nature; and the hopes of soon meeting with +some of the Russian traders could not but give a sensible +satisfaction to those who had, for such a length of time, +been conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and +of the continent of North America.</p> + +<p>Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion, that some Russians +had been shipwrecked here, and that these unfortunate +persons, seeing our ships pass, had taken this method to inform +us of their situation. Impressed with humane sentiments, +on such an occasion, he was desirous of our stopping +till they might have time to join us. But no such idea occurred +to me. It seemed obvious, that if this had been the +case, it would have been the first step taken by such shipwrecked +persons, in order to secure to themselves, and to +their companions, the relief they could not but be solicitous +about, to send some of their body off to the ships in the +canoes. For this reason, I rather thought that the paper +contained a note of information, left by some Russian trader, +who had lately been amongst these islands, to be delivered +to the next of their countrymen who should arrive; +and that the natives, seeing our ships pass, and supposing us +to be Russians, had resolved to bring off the note, thinking +it might induce us to stop. Fully convinced of this, I did +not stay to enquire any farther into the matter, but made +sail, and stood away to the westward, along the coast; perhaps +I should say along the islands, for we could not pronounce, +with certainty, whether the nearest land, within us, +was continent or islands. If not the latter, the coast here +forms some tolerably large and deep bays.</p> + +<p>We continued to run all night with a gentle breeze at +N.E., and, at two o'clock next morning, some breakers +were seen within us, at the distance of about two miles. +Two hours after, others were seen a-head, and on our larboard +bow, and between us and the land, they were innumerable. +We did but just clear them, by holding a south +course. These breakers were occasioned by rocks, some of +which were above water. They extend seven leagues from +the land, and are very dangerous, especially in thick weather, +to which this coast seems much subject. At noon, we +had just got on their outside, and, by observation, we were +in the latitude of 54° 44', and in the longitude of 198°. +The nearest land, being an elevated bluff point, which was +called <i>Rock Point</i>, bore N., seven or eight leagues distant; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page316" id="page316"></a>[pg 316]</span> +the westernmost part of the main, or what was supposed to +be the main, bore N. 80° W.; and a round hill, without, +which was found to be an island, and was called <i>Halibut-Head</i>, +bore S. 64° W., thirteen leagues distant.</p> + +<p>On the 21st at noon, having made but little progress, on +account of faint winds and calms, Halibut-Head, which lies +in the latitude of 54° 27', and in the longitude of 197°, bore +N. 24° W., and the island on which it is, and called <i>Halibut +Island</i>, extended from N. by E. to N.W. by W., two +leagues distant. This island is seven or eight leagues in circuit, +and, except the head, the land of it is low and very +barren. There are several small islands near it, all of the +same appearance, but there seemed to be a passage between +them and the main, two or three leagues broad.<a id="footnotetag89" name="footnotetag89"></a><a href="#footnote89"><sup>7</sup></a></p> + +<p>The rocks and breakers, before mentioned, forced us so +far from the continent, that we had but a distant view of +the coast between Rock Point and Halibut Island. Over +this and the adjoining islands we could see the main land +covered with snow, but particularly some hills, whose elevated +tops were seen, towering above the clouds, to a most +stupendous height. The most south-westerly of these hills +was discovered to have a <i>volcano</i>, which continually threw +up vast columns of black smoke. It stands not far from the +coast, and in the latitude of 54° 48', and in the longitude +of 195° 45'. It is also remarkable from its figure, which is +a complete cone, and the volcano is at the very summit. +We seldom saw this (or indeed any other of these mountains) +wholly clear of clouds. At times, both base and +summit would be clear, when a narrow cloud, sometimes +two or three, one above another, would embrace the middle +like a girdle, which, with the column of smoke, rising +perpendicular to a great height out of its top, and spreading +before the wind into a tail of vast length, made a very +picturesque appearance. It may be worth remarking, that +the wind, at the height to which the smoke of this volcano +reached, moved sometimes in a direction contrary to what +it did at sea, even when it blew a fresh gale.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, having three hours calm, our people +caught upwards of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed +a hundred pounds, and none less than twenty pounds. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page317" id="page317"></a>[pg 317]</span> +This was a very seasonable refreshment to us. In the height +of our fishing, which was in thirty-five fathoms water, and +three or four miles from the shore, a small canoe, conducted +by one man, came to us from the large island. On approaching +the ship, be took off his cap, and bowed, as the +other had done, who visited the Discovery the preceding +day. It was evident that the Russians must have a communication +and traffic with these people, not only from +their acquired politeness, but from the note before mentioned. +But we had now a fresh proof of it; for our present +visitor wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of +black cloth or stuff, under the gut-shirt or frock of his own +country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox skin, +and some fishing implements or harpoons, the heads of the +shafts of which, for the length of a foot or more, were neatly +made of bone, as thick as a walking cane, and carved. +He had with him a bladder full of something, which we +supposed to be oil, for he opened it, took a mouthful, and +then fastened it again.</p> + +<p>His canoe was of the same make with those we had seen +before, but rather smaller. He used a double bladed-paddle, +as did also those who had visited the Discovery. In his +size and features, he exactly resembled those we saw in +Prince William's Sound, and in the Great River, but he was +quite free from paint of any kind, and had the perforation +of his lips made in an oblique direction, without any ornament +in it. He did not seem to understand any of the +words commonly used by our visitors in the Sound, when +repeated to him. But, perhaps, our faulty pronunciation, +rather than his ignorance of the dialect, may be inferred +from this.</p> + +<p>The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then +sunshine, till the afternoon of the 22d, when the wind came +round to the S.E., and, as usual, brought thick rainy weather. +Before the fog came on, no part of the main land +was in sight, except the volcano, and another mountain +close by it. I continued to steer W. till seven in the evening, +when, being apprehensive of falling in with the land +in thick weather, we hauled the wind to the southward, till +two o'clock next morning, and then bore away W. We +made but little progress, having the wind variable, and but +little of it, till at last it fixed in the western board, and at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page318" id="page318"></a>[pg 318]</span> +five in the afternoon, having a gleam of sunshine, we saw +land bearing N. 59° W., appearing in hillocks like islands.</p> + +<p>At six in the morning of the 24th, we got a sight of the +continent, and at nine it was seen extending from N.E. by +E. to S.W. by W. 1/2 W., the nearest part about four leagues +distant. The land to the S.W. proved to be islands, the +same that had been seen the preceding evening. But the +other was a continuation of the continent, without any +islands to obstruct our view of it. In the evening, being +about four leagues from the shore, in forty-two fathoms +water, having little or no wind, we had recourse to our +hooks and lines, but only two or three small cod were +caught.</p> + +<p>The next morning we got a breeze easterly, and what +was uncommon with this wind, clear weather, so that we +not only saw the volcano, but other mountains, both to the +east and west of it, and all the coast of the main land under +them, much plainer than at any time before. It extended +from N.E. by N. to N.W. 1/2 W., where it seemed to +terminate. Between this point and the islands without it, +there appeared a large opening, for which I steered, till we +raised land beyond it. This land, although we did not perceive +that it joined the continent, made a passage through +the opening very doubtful. It also made it doubtful, whether +the land which we saw to the S.W., was insular or continental, +and, if the latter, it was obvious that the opening +would be a deep bay or inlet, from which, if once we entered +it with an easterly wind, it would not be so easy to get +out. Not caring, therefore, to trust too much to appearances, +I steered to the southward. Having thus got without +all the land in sight, I then steered west, in which direction +the islands lay, for such we found this land to be.</p> + +<p>By eight o'clock we had passed three of them, all of a +good height. More of them were now seen to the westward, +the south-westernmost part of them bearing W.N.W. +The weather, in the afternoon, became gloomy, and at +length turned to a mist, and the wind blew fresh at E. I +therefore, at ten at night, hauled the wind to the southward +till day-break, when we resumed our course to the W.</p> + +<p>Day-light availed us little, for the weather was so thick, +that we could not see a hundred yards before us; but as the +wind was now moderate, I ventured to run. At half-past +four, we were alarmed at hearing the sound of breakers on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page319" id="page319"></a>[pg 319]</span> +our larboard bow. On heaving the lead, we found twenty-eight +fathoms water, and the next cast, twenty-five. I immediately +brought the ship to, with her head to the northward, +and anchored in this last depth, over a bottom of +coarse sand, calling to the Discovery, she being close by us, +to anchor also.</p> + +<p>A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, +it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. +We found ourselves three quarters of a mile from the N.E. +side of an island, which extended from S. by W. 1/2 W. to +N. by E. 1/2 E., each extreme about a league distant. Two +elevated rocks, the one bearing S. by E., and the other E. +by S., were about half a league each from us, and about the +same distance from each other. There were several breakers +about them, and yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted +the ships through, between these rocks, which I should +not have ventured in a clear day, and to such an anchoring-place, +that I could not have chosen a better.</p> + +<p>Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine +what it produced. In the afternoon she returned, and the +officer, who commanded her, reported, that it produced +some tolerable good grass, and several other small plants, +one of which was like purslain, and eat very well, either in +soups or as a sallad. There was no appearance of shrubs or +trees, but on the beach were a few pieces of drift wood. It +was judged to be low water between ten and eleven o'clock, +and we found, where we lay at anchor, that the flood-tide +came from the E. or S.E.</p> + +<p>In the night, the wind blew fresh at S., but was more +moderate toward the morning, and the fog partly dispersed. +Having weighed at seven o'clock, we steered to the northward, +between the island under which we had anchored, +and another small one near it. The channel is not above a +mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, +and we were obliged to anchor in thirty-four fathoms +water. We had now land in every direction. That to the +S., extended to the S.W., in a ridge of mountains, but our +sight could not determine whether it composed one or more +islands. We afterward found it to be only one island, and +known by the name of <i>Oonalashka</i>. Between it, and the +land to the N., which had the appearance of being a group +of islands, there seemed to be a channel, in the direction of +N.W. by N. On a point, which bore W. from the ship, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page320" id="page320"></a>[pg 320]</span> +three quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and +their habitations. To this place we saw them tow in two +whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of +them, now and then, came off to the ships, and bartered a +few trifling things with our people, but never remained +above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they +rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge that they were +no strangers to vessels, in some degree, like ours. They +behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage +tribes.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at +N.E., and the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed, and +steered for the channel above-mentioned, in hopes, after we +were through, of finding the land trend away to the northward, +or, at least, a passage out to sea to the W. For we +supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be amongst +islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not +been long under sail, before the wind veered to the N., +which obliged us to ply. The soundings were from forty to +twenty-seven fathoms, over a bottom of sand and mud. In +the evening, the ebb making against us, we anchored about +three leagues from our last station, with the passage bearing +N.W.</p> + +<p>At day-break the next morning, we weighed, with a light +breeze at S., which carried us up to the passage, when it was +succeeded by variable light airs from all directions. But as +there run a rapid tide in our favour, the Resolution got +through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not so +fortunate. She was carried back, got into the race, and had +some trouble to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, +the land on one side was found to trend W. and S.W., and +that on the other side to trend N. This gave us great reason +to hope, that the continent had here taken a new direction, +which was much in our favour. Being in want of +water, and perceiving that we run some risk of driving about +in a rapid tide, without wind to govern the ship, I stood for +a harbour, lying on the S. side of the passage, but we were +very soon driven past it, and, to prevent being forced back +through the passage, came to an anchor in twenty-eight +fathoms water, pretty near the southern shore, out of the +reach of the strong tide. And yet, even here, we found it +to run full five knots and a half in the hour.</p> + +<p>While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page321" id="page321"></a>[pg 321]</span> +each in a canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for +tobacco. One of them, a young man, overset his canoe, +while along-side of one of our boats. Our people caught +hold of him, but the canoe went adrift, and, being picked +up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, +was obliged to come into the ship; and he went +down into my cabin, upon the first invitation, without expressing +the least reluctance or uneasiness. His dress was +an upper garment, like a shirt, made of the large gut of +some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment +of the same shape, made of the skins of birds, dressed with +the feathers on, and neatly sewed together, the feathered +side being wore next his skin. It was mended or patched +with pieces of silk-stuff, and his cap was ornamented with +two or three sorts of glass beads. His own clothes being +wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as +much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and +that of some others, we were convinced that these people +were no strangers to Europeans, and to some of their customs. +But there was something in our ships that greatly +excited their curiosity; for such as could not come off in +canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at +them.<a id="footnotetag90" name="footnotetag90"></a><a href="#footnote90"><sup>8</sup></a></p> + +<p>At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into +the harbour, we anchored there in nine fathoms water, over +a bottom of sand and mud. The Discovery got in soon after. +A launch was now sent for water, and a boat to draw +the seine, but we caught only four trout, and a few other +small fish.</p> + +<p>Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on +board such another note as had been given to Captain +Clerke. He presented it to me, but it was written in the +Russian language, which, as already observed, none of us +could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be +of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and +dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed +his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired.</p> + +<p>In walking, next day, along the shore, I met with a group +of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass, at a repast, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page322" id="page322"></a>[pg 322]</span> +consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as +much relish as we should a turbot, served up with the richest +sauce. By the evening, we had completed our water, +and made such observations as the time and weather would +permit. I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide +without the harbour, but it was inconsiderable within. It +was low water at noon, and high water at half-past six in +the evening, and the water rose, upon a perpendicular, three +feet four inches, but there were marks of its sometimes rising +a foot higher.</p> + +<p>Thick fogs, and a contrary-wind, detained us till the 2d +of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some +knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. The result +of our observations will be mentioned in another place. +At present I shall only describe the harbour.</p> + +<p>It is called, by the natives, <i>Samganoodha</i>, and is situated +on the north side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 58° 55', +in the longitude of 193° 30'; and in the strait, or passage, +that separates this island from those that lie to the north of +it, and whose position before the harbour shelters it from +the winds that blow from that quarter. It runs in S. by W., +about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the entrance, +narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above +a quarter of a mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in +seven, six, and four fathoms water. Great plenty of good +water may be easily got, but not a single stick of wood of +any size.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote83" name="footnote83"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag83"> (return) </a><p>Such seems to be the opinion of Arrowsmith, as indicated by his map +of America, 1804. That map, however, is far from being minute or satisfactory +as to this part of the voyage. The chart of the Russian and +English discoveries, which Mr Coxe has inserted in his work so often alluded +to, is perhaps a better guide. But indeed both are faulty. The reader +need not be informed that the geography of this region is still +very imperfect.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote84" name="footnote84"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag84"> (return) </a><p><i>Tumannoi-ostrow</i>, c'est-à-dire, <i>L'isle +Nebuleuse</i>.—Muller, p. 261.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote85" name="footnote85"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag85"> (return) </a><p>P. 158. Eng. Trans.—The Tufted Aek.—<i>Pennant's Arct. Zool.</i> +ii. +N°. 432.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote86" name="footnote86"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag86"> (return) </a><p>See an account of Kodiac, in Stæhlin's New Northern Archipelago, +p. 30-39.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote87" name="footnote87"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag87"> (return) </a><p>See Muller's <i>Découvertes des Russes</i>, p. 262-277.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote88" name="footnote88"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag88"> (return) </a><p>Coxe's work maybe advantageously consulted for information +respecting +the islands now mentioned. But few persons, it is presumed, feel so +interested about them, as to desire any addition to the text. Besides, +though a connected account of this archipelago might be either amusing or +necessary, it is obvious that detached notices would have little value to +commend them to attention.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote89" name="footnote89"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag89"> (return) </a><p>So Arrowsmith's map has it. The chart in Coxe's work, 4th edition, +does not mention Halibut Island.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote90" name="footnote90"></a><b>Footnote 8:</b><a href="#footnotetag90"> (return) </a><p>Of Oonalashka, Unalashka, or Aghunalaska, for it is known by these +three names, Mr Coxe has presented several interesting enough notices. +The Russians were no strangers to it previous to this voyage.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page323" id="page323"></a>[pg 323]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION VIII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka.—The Islands +Oonella and Acootan.—Ooneemak.—Shallowness of the Water +along the Coast—Bristol Bay.—Round Island.—Calm +Point.—Cape Newenham.—Lieutenant Williamson lands, +and his Report.—Bristol Bay, and its Extent.—The Ships +obliged to return on account of Shoals.—Natives come off to +the Ships.—Death of Mr Anderson; his Character; and +Island named after him.—Point Rodney.—Sledge Island, +and Remarks on Landing there.—King's Island.—Cape +Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of America. Course +Westward.—Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Having put to sea with a light breeze, at S.S.E., we +steered to the N., meeting with nothing to obstruct us in +this course. For, as I observed before, the island of Oonalashka +on the one side, trended S.W., and on the other, no +land was to be seen in a direction more northerly than +N.E., the whole of which laud was a continuation of the +same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the +25th of June. That which lies before Samganoodha, and +forms the N.E. side of the passage through which we came, +is called <i>Oonella</i>, and is about seven leagues in circumference. +Another island to the N.E. of it, is called <i>Acootan</i>, +which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath in it +some very high mountains which were covered with snow. +It appeared, that we might have gone very safely between, +these two islands and the continent, the S.W. point of which +opened off the N.E. point of Acootan, in the direction of +N. 60° E.; and which proved to be the same point of land +we had seen when we quitted the coast of the continent, on +the 25th of June, to go without the islands. It is called by +the people of these parts <i>Ooneemak</i>, and lies in the latitude +of 54° 30', and in the longitude of 192° 30'. Over the cape, +which of itself is high land, is a round elevated mountain, +at this time entirely covered with snow.</p> + +<p>At six in the evening, this mountain bore E. 2° N., and +at eight we had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, +that the coast of the continent had now taken a north-easterly +direction, I ventured to steer the same course till one +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page324" id="page324"></a>[pg 324]</span> +o'clock the next morning, when the watch on deck thought +they saw land a-head. Upon this we wore, and stood to the +S.W. for two hours, and then resumed our course to the +E.N.E.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock, land was seen a-head, bearing S.E., about +five leagues distant. As we advanced, we raised more and +more land, all connected, and seemingly in the direction of +our course. At noon, it extended from S.S.W. to E., the +nearest part five or six leagues distant; Our latitude at this +time was 55° 21', and our longitude 195° 18'. This coast is +on the N.W. side of the volcano mountain, so that we must +have seen it, if the weather had been tolerably clear.</p> + +<p>At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon +an E. by N. course from noon, we sounded, and found +forty-eight fathoms, over a bottom of black sand. Being +at this time four leagues from the land, the eastern part in +sight bore E.S.E., and appeared as a high round hummock, +seemingly detached from the main.</p> + +<p>Having continued to steer E.N.E. all night, at eight in +the morning of the 4th, the coast was seen from S.S.W. to +E. by S.; and at times we could see high land, covered +with snow behind it. Soon after it fell calm, and being in +thirty fathoms water, we put over hooks and lines, and +caught a good number of cod-fish. At noon, having now +a breeze from the east, and the weather being clear, we +found ourselves six leagues from the land, which extended +from S. by W. to E. by S. The hummock, seen the preceding +evening, bore S.W. by S. ten leagues distant. Our +latitude was now 55° 50', and our longitude 197° 3'. A +great hollow swell, from W.S.W., assured us that there was +no main land near in that direction. I stood to the N. till +six in the afternoon, when the wind having veered to S.E., +enabled us to steer E.N.E. The coast lay in this direction, +and at noon, the next day, was about four leagues distant.</p> + +<p>On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made +but little progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, +we were in nineteen fathoms water, and about three or four +leagues from the coast, which, on the 8th, extended from +S.S.W. to E. by N., and was all low land, with a ridge of +mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is probable, +that this low coast extends, some distance, to the S.W.; +and that such places as we sometimes, took for inlets or +bays, are only valleys between the mountains.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page325" id="page325"></a>[pg 325]</span> + +<p>On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at N.W., we +steered E. by N., to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were +in the latitude of 57° 49', and in the longitude of 201° 33', +and about two leagues from the land, which extended +from S. by E. to E.N.E.; being all a low coast, with points +shooting out in some places, which, from the deck, appeared +like islands; but, from the mast-head, low land was +seen to connect them. In this situation, the depth of water +was fifteen fathoms, the bottom a fine black sand.</p> + +<p>As we had advanced to the N.E., we had found the depth +of water gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more +and more northerly. But the ridge of mountains behind it +continued to lie in the same direction as those more westerly; +so that the extent of the low land, between the foot +of the mountains and the sea-coast, insensibly increased. +Both high and low grounds were perfectly destitute of +wood; but seemed to be covered with a green turf, except +the mountains, which were covered with snow. Continuing +to steer along the coast, with a gentle breeze, +westerly, the water gradually shoaled from fifteen to ten +fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten +miles from the shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated +mountain, which had been in sight for some time, bore +S.E. by E., twenty-one leagues distant. Some other mountains, +belonging to the same chain, and much farther distant, +bore E. 3° N. The coast extended as far as N.E. 1/2 N., +where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which we +hoped and expected, that it would take a more easterly direction. +But, soon after, we discovered low land, extending +from behind this point, as far as N.W. by W., where it +was lost in the horizon; and behind it was high land, that +appeared in detached hills.</p> + +<p>Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north +vanished in a moment. I stood on till nine o'clock, for so +long it was light, and then the point above mentioned bore +N.E. 1/2 E., about three miles distant. Behind this point is +a river, the entrance of which seemed to be a mile broad; +but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water appeared +to be discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have +given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, +through the great flat that lies between the chain +of mountains to the S.E., and the hills to the N.W. It +must abound with salmon, as we saw many leaping in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page326" id="page326"></a>[pg 326]</span> +sea before the entrance; and some were found in the maws +of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, +distinguished by the name of <i>Bristol River</i>, lies in the latitude +of 58° 27', and in the longitude of 201° 55'.<a id="footnotetag91" name="footnotetag91"></a><a href="#footnote91"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>Having spent the night in making short boards, at day-break +on the morning of the 10th, we made sail to the W.S.W., +with a gentle breeze at N.E. At eleven o'clock, we +thought the coast to the N.W. terminated in a point, bearing +N.W. by W.; and as we had now deepened the water +from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering +the Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had +run a mile, she made a signal for shoal water. At that instant +we had the depth of seven fathoms; and before we +could get the ship's head the other way, had less than five; +but the Discovery had less than four.</p> + +<p>We stood back to the N.E. three or four miles; but +finding there was a strong tide or current setting to the +W.S.W., that is toward the shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, +over a bottom of fine sand. Two hours after we +had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward; +which proved, that it was the tide of ebb that came from, +the river above mentioned. We also examined some of the +water which we had taken up, and found that it was not +half so salt as common sea-water. This furnished another +proof that we were before a large river.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to S.W., we +weighed, and stood to the southward, with boats ahead, +sounding; and passed over the south end of the shoal in +six fathoms water. We then got into thirteen and fifteen; +in which last depth we anchored, at half-past eight; some +part of the chain of mountains, on the S.E. shore, in sight, +bearing S.E. 1/2 S., and the westernmost land, on the other +shore, N.W. We had, in the course of the day, seen high +land, bearing N. 60° W., by estimation twelve leagues distant.</p> + +<p>Having weighed next morning, at two o'clock, with a +light breeze at S.W. by W., we plied to windward till +nine; when, judging the flood-tide to be now made against +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page327" id="page327"></a>[pg 327]</span> +us, we came to an anchor in twenty-four fathoms. We lay +here till one, when the fog, which had prevailed this morning, +dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, we +weighed, and plied to the S.W. in the evening, the wind +was very variable, and we had some thunder. We had +heard none before since our arrival upon the coast; and +this was at a great distance.</p> + +<p>The wind having settled again in the S.W. quarter, in +the morning of the 12th, we stood to the N.W., and at ten +saw the continent. At noon, it extended from N.E. by N., +to N.W. 1/4 W.; and an elevated hill bore N.N.W., ten +leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which, from +its figure, obtained the name of <i>Round Island</i>. It lies in +the latitude of 58° 37', and in the longitude of 200° 6', and +seven miles from the continent. In the evening, at nine, +having stood to the northward to within three leagues of +the shore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms water; the extremes +of the coast bearing E.S.E. 1/2 E. and W. The wind +veering to the N.W. enabled us to make a good stretch +along shore till two o'clock in the morning, when we got +all at once into six fathoms water, being at this time two +leagues from the shore. After edging off a little, our depth +gradually increased, and at noon we had twenty fathoms, +when the latitude was 53° 13', and the longitude 199°. +Round Island bore N., 5° E.; and the west extreme of the +coast N., 16° W., seven leagues distant. It is an elevated +point, which obtained the name of <i>Calm Point</i>, from our +having calm weather when off it. To the N.W. of Round +Island are two or three hillocks that appeared like islands; +and it is possible they may be such; for we had but a distant +view of the coast in this place.<a id="footnotetag92" name="footnotetag92"></a><a href="#footnote92"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>During the 14th and 15th our progress was slow, having +little wind, and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could +not see the length of the ship. The soundings were from +fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we had tolerable success +in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few flat +fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having +cleared up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. +Calm Point bore N., 72° E., and a point eight +leagues from it, in the direction of W., bore N., 30° E., +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page328" id="page328"></a>[pg 328]</span> +three miles distant. Between these two points, the coast +forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly +visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the +N.W. side of this last point, between it and an elevated +promontory, which at this time bore N., 36° W. sixteen +miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant Williamson to this +promontory, with orders to land, and see what direction +the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced; +for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We +found here the flood-tide setting strongly to the N.W. +along the coast. At noon it was high water, and we anchored +in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues distant from the +shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in our +favour, we weighed, and drove with it, for there was no +wind.</p> + +<p>Soon after, Mr Williamson returned; and reported, that +he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest +hill, found, that the farthest part of the coast in sight +bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in +his majesty's name; and left on the hill a bottle, in which +was inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, +and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which +he gave the name of <i>Cape Newenham</i>, is a rocky point, of +tolerable height, situated in the latitude of 58° 42', and in +the longitude of 197° 36'. Over, or within it, are two elevated +hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, +or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr +Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor shrub. +The hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass +and other plants, very few of which were in flower. He +saw no other animal but a doe and a fawn; and a dead +sea-horse or cow upon the beach. Of these animals we had +lately seen a great many.</p> + +<p>As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, +that Cape fixes the northern limit of the great bay +and gulf lying before the river Bristol, which, in honour +of the Admiral, Earl of Bristol, was named <i>Bristol Bay</i>. +<i>Cape Ooneemak</i> is the south limit of this bay; and is distant +eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction +of S.S.W.<a id="footnotetag93" name="footnotetag93"></a><a href="#footnote93"><sup>3</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page329" id="page329"></a>[pg 329]</span> + +<p>About eight in the evening, a light breeze springing up, +which fixed at S.S.E., we steered N.W. and N.N.W., round +Cape Newenham, which, at noon next day, bore S. by E., +distant four leagues. At this time the most advanced land +to the northward bore N., 30° E.; our depth of water was +seventeen fathoms, and the nearest shore 3-1/2 leagues distant. +We had but little wind all the afternoon; so that, at +ten at night, we had only made three leagues upon a north +course.</p> + +<p>We steered N. by W. till eight the next morning, when, +our depth of water decreasing suddenly to five and seven +fathoms, we brought-to, till a boat from each ship was sent +ahead to sound, and then steered N.E. after them; and at +noon we had deepened the water to seventeen fathoms. At +this time, Cape Newenham bore S., 9° E., distant eleven or +twelve leagues; the N.E. extreme of the land in sight N., +66° E.; and the nearest shore about four or five leagues +distant. Our latitude, by observation, was 59° 16'.</p> + +<p>Between this latitude and Cape Newenham, the coast is +composed of hills and low land, and appeared to form several +bays. A little before one o'clock, the boats ahead +made the signal for meeting with shoal water. It seems +they had only two fathoms; and at the same time the ships +were in six fathoms. By hauling a little more to the northward, +we continued in much the same depth till between +five and six o'clock, when the boats meeting with less and +less water, I made the signal to the Discovery, she being +then ahead, to anchor, which we did soon after. In bringing +our ship up, the cable parted at the clinch, which obliged +us to come-to with the other anchor. We rode in six +fathoms water, a sandy bottom, and about four or five +leagues from the main land; Cape Newenham bearing S., +seventeen leagues distant. The farthest hills we could see +to the north, bore N.E. by E.; but there was low land +stretching out from the high land as far as N. by E. Without +this was a shoal of sand and stones, that was dry at +half ebb.</p> + +<p>I had sent the two masters, each in a boat, to sound between +this shoal and the coast. On their return, they reported, +that there was a channel, in which they found six +and seven fathoms water; but that it was narrow and intricate. +At low water, we made an attempt to get a hawser +round the lost anchor, but did not succeed then. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page330" id="page330"></a>[pg 330]</span> +However, being determined not to leave it behind me, as long +as there was a probability of recovering it, I persevered in +my endeavours, and at last succeeded in the evening of the +20th.</p> + +<p>While we were thus employed, I ordered Captain Clerke +to send his master in a boat to look for a passage in the +S.W. quarter. He did so; but no channel was to be found +in that direction; nor did there appear to be any way to +get clear of these shoals, but to return by the track which +had brought us in. For although, by following the channel +we were in, we might probably have got farther down the +coast; and though, possibly, this channel might have led +us at last to the north, clear of the shoals, still the attempt +would have been attended with vast risk; and if we should +not have succeeded, there would have been a considerable +loss of time that could ill be spared. These reasons induced +me to return by the way in which we came; and so get +without the shoals.</p> + +<p>A number of lunar observations, made by Mr King +and myself on this and the four preceding days, and +all reduced to the ship's present station, gave the longitude</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">197° 45' 48"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">By the time-keeper it was</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">197 26 48</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Our latitude was</td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">59 37 30</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Variation by the</td><td align="left">A.M. </td><td align="left">23° 34' 3"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">mean of three</td><td align="left">P.M. </td><td align="left">22 19 40</td><td align="left">mean 22° 56' 51" E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">compasses,</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The northernmost part of the coast that we could see +from this station, I judged to lie in the latitude of 60°. It +seemed to form a low point, which obtained the name of +<i>Shoal-Ness</i>.</p> + +<p>The tide of flood sets to the north, and the ebb to the +south. It rises and falls, upon a perpendicular, five or six +feet; and I reckon it to be high-water on the full and +change days at eight o'clock.</p> + +<p>Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, +with a light breeze at N.N.W., we steered back to the +southward, having three boats ahead to direct us. But, +notwithstanding this precaution, we found more difficulty +in returning than we had in advancing; and at last were +obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which +had only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page331" id="page331"></a>[pg 331]</span> +twenty-seven men of the country, each in a canoe, came off to the +ships, which they approached with great caution, hollowing +and opening their arms as they advanced. This, we understood, +was to express their pacific intentions. At length, +some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that +were thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture +alongside; and a traffic presently commenced between +them and our people; who got dresses of skins, bows, arrows, +darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our visitors taking in exchange +for these whatever was offered them. They seemed +to be the same sort of people that we had of late met +with all along this coast; wore the same kind of ornaments +in their lips and noses; but were far more dirty, and not +so well clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted +with people like us; they knew not the use of tobacco; +nor was any foreign article seen in their possession, unless +a knife may be looked upon as such. This, indeed, was only +a piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as +to answer the purpose of a knife. They, however, knew the +value and use of this instrument so well, that it seemed to +be the only article they wished for. Most of them had their +hair shaved or cut short off, leaving only a few locks behind, +or on one side. For a covering for the head they +wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which appeared to be +of wool. One part of their dress, which we got from them, +was a kind of girdle, very neatly made of skin, with trappings +depending from it, and passing between the legs, so +as to conceal the adjoining parts. By the use of such a +girdle, it should seem that they sometimes go naked, even +in this high latitude; for they would hardly wear it under +their other clothing.</p> + +<p>The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we +had lately seen; only with this difference, that these were +broader, and the hole in which the man sits was wider than +in any I had before met with. Our boats returning from +sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all left us +sooner than probably they would otherwise have done.</p> + +<p>It was the 22d in the evening before we got clear of +these shoals, and then I durst not venture to steer to the +westward in the night, but spent it off Cape Newenham; +and at day-break, next morning, steered to the N.W., +ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two +leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page332" id="page332"></a>[pg 332]</span> +Fearing, if we continued this course, that we should find less +and less water, I hauled to the southward; the wind being +at east, a fresh breeze. This course brought us gradually. +into eighteen fathoms, and having that depth, I ventured +to steer a little westerly; and afterward west, when we at +last found twenty-six fathoms water.</p> + +<p>On the 24th at noon, we were, by observation in the latitude +of 58° 7', and in the longitude of 194° 22'. Three +leagues to the westward of this station we had twenty-eight +fathoms water, and then steered W.N.W., the water gradually +deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I would have +steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that +direction, I could not.</p> + +<p>The 25th, in the evening, having a very thick fog, and +but little wind, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. +Our latitude was now 58° 29', and our longitude 191° 37'. +At six, the next morning, the weather clearing up a little, +we weighed, and, with a small breeze at east, steered north, +our soundings being from twenty-eight to twenty-five fathoms. +After running nine leagues upon this course, the +wind returned back to the north, which obliged us to steer +more westerly.</p> + +<p>The weather continued for the most part foggy till toward +noon on the 28th, when we had a few hours clear +sunshine; during which we made several lunar observations. +The mean result of them, reduced to noon, when the latitude +was 59° 55', gave 190° 6' longitude; and the time-keeper +gave 189° 59'. The variation of the compass was +18° 40' E. Continuing our westerly course, the water having +now deepened to thirty-six fathoms, at four o'clock +next morning we discovered land, bearing N.W. by W., +six leagues distant. We stood toward it till half-past ten, +when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water, being at this +time a league from the land, which bore N.N.W. It was +the S.E. extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of +considerable height; on which account it was called <i>Point +Upright</i>, and lies in the latitude of 60° 17', and in the longitude +of 187° 30'. More land was seen to the westward of +the point; and, at a clear interval, we saw another elevated +portion of land in the direction of W. by S.; and this +seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we +met with an incredible number of birds, all of the awk +kind before described.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page333" id="page333"></a>[pg 333]</span> + +<p>We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that +we made but little progress; and the weather was not clear +enough to enable us to determine the extent of the land +before us. We supposed it to be one of the many islands +laid down by Mr Stæhlin, in his map of the New Northern +Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more +of them.<a id="footnotetag94" name="footnotetag94"></a><a href="#footnote94"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore +N.W. by N., six leagues distant. About this time, a light +breeze springing up at N.N.W., we stood to the N.E. till +four o'clock next morning, when the wind veering to the +eastward, we tacked, and stood to the N.W. Soon after +the wind came to S.E.; and we steered N.E. by N.; which +course we continued, with soundings from thirty-five to +twenty fathoms, till next day at noon. At this time we were +in the latitude of 60° 58', and in the longitude of 191°. +The wind now veering to N.E., I first made a stretch of ten +leagues to the N.W.; and then, seeing no land in that direction, +I stood back to the eastward about fifteen leagues, +and met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The soundings +were from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms.</p> + +<p>Variable, light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all +the 2d; but fixing in the S.E. quarter in the morning of +the 3d, we resumed our course to the northward. At noon, +we were, by observation, in the latitude of 62° 34', our longitude +was 192°, and our depth of water sixteen fathoms.</p> + +<p>Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under +a consumption for more than twelve months, expired +between three and four this afternoon. He was a sensible +young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his +own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge +in other branches of science. The reader of this Journal +will have observed how useful an assistant I had found him +in the course of the voyage; and had it pleased God to +have spared his life, the public, I make no doubt, might +have received from him such communications, on various +parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, +as would have abundantly shewn that he was not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page334" id="page334"></a>[pg 334]</span> +unworthy of this commendation.<a id="footnotetag95" name="footnotetag95"></a><a href="#footnote95"><sup>5</sup></a> Soon after he had breathed +his last, land was seen to the westward, twelve leagues +distant. It was supposed to be an island; and, to perpetuate +the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very +great regard, I named it <i>Anderson's Island</i>. The next day, +I removed Mr Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the +Resolution, and appointed Mr Samuel, the surgeon's first +mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Discovery.</p> + +<p>On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending +from N.N.E. to N.W. We stood on toward it till +four o'clock, when, being four or five miles from it, we +tacked; and, soon after, the wind falling, we anchored in +thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom; being about +two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in the +latitude of 64° 27', and in the longitude of 194° 18'. At +intervals, we could see the coast extending from E. to N.W., +and a pretty high island, bearing W. by N. three +leagues distant.</p> + +<p>The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent +of America, appeared low next the sea; but, inland, +it swelled into hills, which rise, one behind another, to a +considerable height. It had a greenish hue, but seemed +destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay at +anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, +and set to the west, till between ten and eleven o'clock. +From that time till two the next morning, the stream set +to the eastward, and the water fell three feet. The flood +ran both stronger and longer than the ebb; from which I +concluded, that, besides the ebb, there was a westerly current.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page335" id="page335"></a>[pg 335]</span> + +<p>At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at S.W., +we ran down, and anchored between the island and the +continent, in seven fathoms water. Soon after I landed upon +the island, accompanied by Mr King and some others +of the officers. I hoped to have had from it a view of the +coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in +that direction, that the prospect was not more extensive +than from the ship. The coast of the continent seemed to +take a turn to the northward, at a low point, named <i>Point +Rodney</i>, which bore from the island N.W. 1/2 W., three or +four leagues distant; but the high land, which took a more +northerly direction, was seen a great way farther.</p> + +<p>This island, which was named <i>Sledge Island</i>, and lies in +the latitude of 64° 30', and in the longitude of 193° 57', is +about four leagues in circuit. The surface of the ground is +composed chiefly of large loose stones, that are, in many +places, covered with moss and other vegetables, of which +there were above twenty or thirty different sorts, and most +of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree, either +upon this island or on the continent. On a small low spot, +near the beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild +purslain, pease, long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on +board for the pot. We saw one fox, a few plovers, and +some other small birds; and we met with some decayed +huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately +been on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently +visit it for some purpose or other, as there was a +beaten path from the one end to the other. We found, a +little way from the shore where we landed, a sledge, which +occasioned this name being given to the island, it seemed +to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use +of to convey goods from place to place over the ice or +snow. It was ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had +a kind of rail-work on each side, and was shod with bone. +The construction of it was admirable, and all the parts +neatly put together; some with wooden pins, but mostly +with thongs or lashings of whalebone, which made me +think it was entirely the workmanship of the natives.</p> + +<p>At three o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded +to the north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. +We had an opportunity to observe the sun's meridian altitude +for the latitude; and to get altitudes, both in the forenoon +and afternoon, to obtain the longitude by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page336" id="page336"></a>[pg 336]</span> +time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, we +advanced but slowly; and at eight in the evening, finding +the ships settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored +in seven fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. +Sledge Island bore S., 51° E., ten leagues distant, and was +seen over the south point of the main land.</p> + +<p>Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had +been misty, clearing up, we saw high land extending from +N., 40° E., to N., 30° W., apparently disjoined from the +coast, under which we were at anchor, which seemed to +trend away N.E. At the same time, an island was seen +bearing N., 81° W., eight or nine leagues distant. It appeared +to have no great extent, and was named <i>King's +Island</i>. We rode here till eight o'clock next morning, when +we weighed, and stood to the N.W. The weather clearing +up toward the evening, we got sight of the N.W. land, extending +from N. by W. to N.W. by N., distant about three +leagues. We spent the night making short boards, the +weather being misty and rainy, with little wind; and, between +four and five of the morning of the 8th, we had +again a sight of the N.W. land; and soon after, on account +of a calm, and a current driving us toward the shore, we +found it necessary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, +about two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme +is an elevated peaked hill, situated in latitude 65° 36', and +in longitude 192° 18'. A breeze at N.E. springing up at +eight o'clock, we weighed, and stood to the S.E., in hopes +of finding a passage between the coast on which we had +anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this N.W. land. +But we soon got into seven fathoms water, and discovered +low land connecting the two coasts, and the high land behind +it.</p> + +<p>Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, +I tacked, and stood away for its N.W. part, and came to +an anchor under it in seventeen fathoms water. The weather +at this time was very thick with rain; but at four next +morning it cleared up, so that we could see the land about +us. A high steep rock or island bore W. by S.; another +island to the N. of it; and much larger, bore W. by N.; +the peaked hill above mentioned S.E. by E.; and the point +under it, S., 32° E. Under this hill lies some low land, +stretching out towards the N.W., the extreme point of +which bore N.E. by E., about three miles distant. Over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page337" id="page337"></a>[pg 337]</span> +and beyond it some high land was seen, supposed to be a +continuation of the continent.</p> + +<p>This point of land, which I named <i>Cape Prince of Wales</i>, +is the more remarkable, by being the western extremity of +all America hitherto known. It is situated in the latitude +of 65° 45', and in the longitude of 191° 45'. The observations +by which both were determined, though made in sight +of it, were liable to some small error, on account of the haziness +of the weather. We thought we saw some people +upon the coast; and probably we were not mistaken, as +some elevations, like stages, and others like huts, were seen +at the same place. We saw the same things on the continent +within Sledge Island, and on some other parts of the +coast.</p> + +<p>It was calm till eight o'clock in the morning, when a faint +breeze at north springing up, we weighed. But we had +scarcely got our sails set, when it began to blow and rain +very hard, with misty weather. The wind and current being +in contrary directions, raised such a sea that it frequently +broke into the ship. We had a few minutes sunshine +at noon; and from the observation then obtained, +we fixed the above-mentioned latitude.</p> + +<p>Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with +little effect, I bore up for the island we had seen to the +westward, proposing to come to an anchor under it till the +gale should cease. But on getting to this land, we found it +composed of two small islands, each not above three or +four leagues in circuit, and consequently they could afford +us little shelter. Instead of anchoring, therefore, we continued +to stretch to the westward; and at eight o'clock, +land was seen in that direction, extending from N.N.W. to +W. by S., the nearest part six leagues distant. I stood on +till ten, and then made a board to the eastward, in order to +spend the night.</p> + +<p>At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed +our course to the west for the land we had seen the preceding +evening. At eleven minutes after seven, when the +longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189° 24', it extended +from S. 72° W. to N. 41° E. Between the S.W. extreme, +and a point which bore W., two leagues distant, the shore +forms a large bay, in which we anchored at ten o'clock in +the forenoon, about two miles from the north shore, in ten +fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. The south part of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page338" id="page338"></a>[pg 338]</span> +the bay bore S. 58° W., the north point N. 43° E., the bottom +of the bay N. 60° W., two or three leagues distant, and. +the two islands we had passed the preceding day, N. 72° E., +distant fourteen leagues.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote91" name="footnote91"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag91"> (return) </a><p>Mr Arrowsmith lays down this river, but without naming it. Mr +Coxe does neither. Both of them specify Bristol Bay. Mr A.'s delineation +of the coast of the peninsular projection, corresponds extremely well +with Captain Cook's description.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote92" name="footnote92"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag92"> (return) </a><p>Both Round Island and Calm Point are named by Coxe; Arrowsmith +marks them, but has omitted the names.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote93" name="footnote93"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag93"> (return) </a><p>Cape Newenham is mentioned by Arrowsmith, but not by Coxe; +both have Shoal Ness, soon to be spoken of.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote94" name="footnote94"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag94"> (return) </a><p>The opinion here given, we shall find, is afterwards corrected; and +the land in question proved to be a discovery unknown to the Russians.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote95" name="footnote95"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag95"> (return) </a><p>Mr Anderson's Journal seems to have been discontinued for about +two months before his death; the last date in his MSS. being of the 3d +of June.—D.</p> + +<p>The Biographia Britannica informs us, that Mr Anderson left his papers +to Sir Joseph Banks; but that the Admiralty took possession of the +larger part of them, and, for what reason is not mentioned, retained them. +Such parts, however, it is said, as related solely to natural history, were +delivered by Captain King to the Baronet, who bears testimony "to the +excellence of Mr A.'s character, the utility of his observations, and to the +great probability, that, if he had survived, he would have given to the +world something which would have done him credit." Much of this commendatory +opinion might be inferred from what has been published of +Mr A.'s labours, which constitute no inconsiderable portion, either in +bulk or value, of Captain Cook's communications.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION IX.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing the Ships.—Interview +with some of them.—Their Weapons.—Persons.—Ornaments.—Clothing.—Winter +and Summer Habitations.—The Ships cross the Strait, to the Coast of +America.—Progress Northward.—Cape Mulgrave.—Appearance of +Fields of Ice.—Situation of Icy Cape.—The Sea blocked +up with Ice.—Sea-horses killed, and used as Provisions.—These +Animals described.—Dimensions of one of them.—Cape +Lisburne.—Fruitless Attempt to get through the Ice at a +Distance from the Coast.—Observations on the Formation +of thin Ice.—Arrival on the Coast of Asia.—Cape North.—The +Prosecution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing +Year.</i></blockquote> + +<p>As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the +north shore a village, and some people, whom the sight of +the ships seemed to have thrown into confusion or fear. +We could plainly see persons running up the country with +burdens upon their backs. At these habitations I proposed +to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats, accompanied +by some of the officers. About thirty or forty +men, each armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood +drawn up on a rising ground close by the village. As we +drew near, three of them came down toward the shore, and +were so polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low +bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire +them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, for +the moment we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed +them alone, without any thing in my hand; and by +signs and gestures prevailed on them to stop, and to receive +some trifling presents. In return for these they gave me +two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I cannot +say whether they or I made the first present; for it appeared +to me that they had brought down with them these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page339" id="page339"></a>[pg 339]</span> +things for this very purpose, and that they would have given +them to me, even though I had made no return.</p> + +<p>They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their +desire by signs, that no more of our people should be permitted +to come up. On my laying my hand on the shoulder +of one of them, he started back several paces. In proportion +as I advanced, they retreated backward, always in +the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, +while those on the rising ground stood ready to support +them with their arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three +of my companions, got in amongst them. A few beads distributed +to those about us, soon created a kind of confidence, +so that they were not alarmed when a few more of +our people joined us, and, by degrees, a sort of traffic between +us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, +and other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, +and a few arrows. But nothing that we had to offer +could induce them to part with a spear or a bow. These +they held in constant readiness, never once quitting them, +except at one time, when four or five persons laid theirs +down, while they gave us a song and a dance. And even +then, they placed them in such a manner, that they could +lay hold of them in an instant, and, for their security, they +desired us to sit down.</p> + +<p>The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but +very few of them had barbs, and some had a round blunt +point. What use these may be applied to I cannot say, unless +it be to kill small animals, without damaging the skin. +The bows were such as we had seen on the American coast, +and like those that were used by the Esquimaux. The +spears, or spontoons, were of iron or steel; and of European +or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been +taken to ornament them with carving, and inlayings of +brass, and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with +bows and arrows in their hands, had the spear slung over +their right shoulder by a leathern strap. A leathern quiver, +slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows; and some +of these quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of +red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other +ornaments.</p> + +<p>Several other things, and in particular their clothing, +shewed that they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, +far surpassing what one could expect to find amongst so +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page340" id="page340"></a>[pg 340]</span> +northern a people. All the Americans we had seen since +our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with +round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people +we now were amongst, far from resembling them, had long +visages, and were stout and well-made. In short, they appeared +to be a quite different nation. We saw neither women +nor children of either sex, nor any aged, except one +man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who +carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and +rather under than above the middle age. The old man had +a black mark across his face, which I did not see in any +others. All of them had their ears bored, and some had +glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed +ornaments we saw about them, for they wear none to the +lips. This is another thing in which they differ from the +Americans we had lately seen.</p> + +<p>Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of +breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of +leather, or of the skins of deer, dogs, seals, &c. and extremely +well dressed, some with the hair or fur on, but others +without it. The caps were made to fit the head very close; +and besides these caps, which most of them wore, we got +from them some hoods, made of skins of dogs, that were +large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair +seemed to be black; but their heads were either shaved, or +the hair cut close off, and none of them wore any beard. +Of the few articles which they got from us, knives and tobacco +were what they valued most.</p> + +<p>We found the village composed both of their summer +and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a +vault, the floor of which is sunk a little below the surface of +the earth. One of them which I examined was of an oval +form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or more high. +The framing was composed of wood and the ribs of whales, +disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with +smaller materials of the same sort. Over this framing is +laid a covering of strong coarse grass, and that again is covered +with earth, so that, on the outside, the house looks +like a little hillock, supported by a wall of stone, three or +four feet high, which is built round the two sides and one +end. At the other end, the earth is raised sloping, to walk +up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof +over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page341" id="page341"></a>[pg 341]</span> +of cellar, in which I saw nothing but water. And at the end +of each house was a vaulted room, which I took to be a +store-room. These store-rooms communicated with the +house, by a dark passage, and with the open air, by a hole +in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked +upon; but they cannot be said to be wholly under ground, +for one end reached to the edge of the hill, along which +they were made, and which was built up with stone. Over +it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, composed of the +large bones of large fish.</p> + +<p>The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being +brought to a point at the top. The framing was of slight +poles and bones, covered with the skins of sea-animals. I +examined the inside of one. There was a fire-place just +within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all very +dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up +about half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; +for there were several partitions made with skins. The bed +and bedding were of deer-skins, and most of them were dry +and clean.</p> + +<p>About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or +twelve feet high, such as we had observed on some parts of +the American coast. They were wholly composed of bones, +and seemed intended for drying their fish and skins, which +were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of which +they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, rather +large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like +wool. They are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in +winter. For sledges they have, as I saw a good many laid +up in one of the winter huts. It is also not improbable, that +dogs may constitute a part of their food. Several lay dead +that had been killed that morning.</p> + +<p>The canoes of these people are of the same sort with +those of the Northern Americans, some, both of the large +and of the small ones, being seen lying in a creek under the +village.</p> + +<p>By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-animals, it appeared +that the sea supplied them with the greatest part of +their subsistence. The country appeared to be exceedingly +barren, yielding neither tree nor shrub, that we could see. +At some distance westward, we observed a ridge of mountains +covered with snow that had lately fallen.</p> + +<p>At first, we supposed this land to be a part of the island +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page342" id="page342"></a>[pg 342]</span> +of Alaschka, laid down in Mr Stæhlin's map before-mentioned. +But from the figure of the coast, the situation of +the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude, we +soon began to think that it was, more probably, the country +of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored +by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, +without farther examination, I must have pronounced Mr +Stæhlin's map, and his account of the new northern archipelago, +to be either exceedingly erroneous, even in latitude, +or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment which I had no +right to pass upon a publication so respectably vouched, +without producing the clearest proofs.<a id="footnotetag96" name="footnotetag96"></a><a href="#footnote96"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>After a stay of between two and three hours with these +people, we returned to our ships, and soon after, the wind +veering to the south, we weighed anchor, stood out of the +bay, and steered to the N.E., between the coast and the two +islands. The next day, at noon, the former extended from +S. 80° W. to N. 84° W., the latter bore S. 40° W., and the +peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36° +E., with land extending from it as far as S. 75° E. The latitude +of the ship was 66° 5-1/4', the longitude 191° 19', our +depth of water twenty-eight fathoms, and our position nearly +in the middle of the channel between the two coasts, +each being seven leagues distant.</p> + +<p>From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer +the American coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, +and there being little wind, and all our endeavours +to increase our depth tailing, I was obliged at last to drop +anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy we had left to prevent +the ships driving into less. The nearest part of the +western land bore W., twelve leagues distant, the peaked +hill over Cape Prince of Wales, S. 16° W., and the northernmost +part of the American continent in sight, E.S.E., +the nearest part about four leagues distant. After we had +anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and the water was found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page343" id="page343"></a>[pg 343]</span> +to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay at anchor, +which was from six to nine in the evening, we found +little or no current, nor could we perceive that the water +either rose or fell.</p> + +<p>A breeze of wind springing up at N., we weighed, and +stood to the westward, which course soon brought us into +deep water, and, during the 12th, we plied to the N., both +coasts being in sight, but we kept nearest to that of America.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing +up at S., I steered N.E. by N., till four o'clock next morning, +when, seeing no land, we directed our course E. by N., +and between nine and ten, land, supposed to be a continuation +of the continent, appeared. It extended from E. by +S. to E. by N., and soon after we saw more land, bearing +N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms +water, at two in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, +when we stood in again for the land, which was seen soon +after, extending from N. to S.E., the nearest part three or +four leagues distant. The coast here forms a point, named +<i>Point Mulgrave</i>, which lies in the latitude of 67° 45', and in +the longitude of 194° 51'. The land appeared very low next +the sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate +height. The whole was free from snow, and, to appearance, +destitute of wood. I now tacked, and bore away +N.W. by W., but soon after, thick weather with rain coming +on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to the +west.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at two o'clock, the wind veered to S.W. +by S.; and blew a strong gale, which abated at noon; and +the sun shining out, we found ourselves, by observation, in +the latitude of 68° 18'. I now steered N.E., till six o'clock +the next morning, when I steered two points more easterly. +In this run, we met with several sea-horses and flights of +birds, some like sand-larks, and others no bigger than +hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen, so that we +judged ourselves to be not far from land. But as we had +a thick fog, we could not expect to see any; and, as the +wind blew strong, it was not prudent to continue a course +which was most likely to bring us to it. From the noon of +this day, to six o'clock in the morning of the following, I +steered E. by N., which course brought us into sixteen fathoms +water. I now steered N.E. by E., thinking, by this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page344" id="page344"></a>[pg 344]</span> +course, to deepen our water. But, in the space of six +leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms, which made me think +it proper to haul close to the wind that now blew at west. +Toward noon, both sun and moon were seen clearly at intervals, +and we got some flying observations for the longitude, +which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70° 33', +gave 197° 41'. The time-keeper, for the same time, gave +198°, and the variation was 35° 1' 22" E. We had, afterward, +reason to believe, that the observed longitude was +within a very few miles of the truth.</p> + +<p>Some time before noon, we perceived a brightness in the +northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly +called the blink. It was little noticed, from a supposition +that it was improbable we should meet with ice so soon. +And yet the sharpness of the air, and gloominess of the +weather, for two or three days past, seemed to indicate some +sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a large +field of ice, left us no longer in doubt about the cause of +the brightness of the horizon. At half-past two, we tacked, +close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, +being then in the latitude of 70° 41', not being able to +stand on any farther. For the ice was quite impenetrable, +and extended from W. by N. to E. by N. as far as the eye +could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses, some in +the water, but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of +hoisting out the boats to kill some, but the wind freshening, +I gave up the design, and continued to ply to the southward, +or rather to the westward, for the wind came from +that quarter.</p> + +<p>We gained nothing; for, on the 18th at noon, our latitude +was 70° 44', and we were near five leagues farther to +the eastward. We were, at this time, close to the edge of +the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and seemed to be +ten or twelve feet high at least. But, farther north, it appeared +much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged; +and here and there, we saw upon it pools of water.</p> + +<p>We now stood to the southward; and, after running six +leagues, shoaled the water to seven fathoms, but it soon +deepened to nine fathoms. At this time, the weather, which +had been hazy, clearing up a little, we saw land extending +from S. to S.E. by E., about three or four miles distant. +The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered +with ice, for which reason it obtained the name +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page345" id="page345"></a>[pg 345]</span> +of <i>Icy Cape</i>. Its latitude is 70° 29', and its longitude 198° +20'. The other extreme of the land was lost in the horizon, +so that there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of +the American continent. The Discovery being about a +mile astern, and to leeward, found less water than we did, +and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to +prevent separation.</p> + +<p>Our situation was now more and more critical. We were +in shoal water, upon a lee-shore, and the main body of the +ice to windward, driving down upon us. It was evident, +that if we remained much longer between it and the land, +it would force us ashore, unless it should happen to take the +ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to leeward; +and the only direction that was open, was to the +S.W. After making a short board to the northward, I made +the signal for the Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at +the same time. The wind proved rather favourable, so that +we lay up S.W. and S.W. by W.</p> + +<p>At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering +back to W., I tacked to the northward, and, at noon, the +latitude was 70° 6', and the longitude 195° 42'. In this situation, +we had a good deal of drift-ice about us; and the +main ice was about two leagues to the N. At half-past one, +we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact as that +which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, +and in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through +it. On the ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses; and, +as we were in want of fresh provisions, the boats from each +ship were sent to get some.</p> + +<p>By seven o'clock in the evening, we had received, on +board the Resolution, nine of these animals, which, till +now, we had supposed to be sea-cows; so that we were not +a little disappointed, especially some of the seamen, who, +for the novelty of the thing, had been feasting their eyes +for some days past. Nor would they have been disappointed +now, nor have known the difference, if we had not happened +to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, +and declared what animals these were, and that no one +ever eat of them. But, notwithstanding this, we lived upon +them as long as they lasted; and there were few on +board who did not prefer them to our salt meat.</p> + +<p>The fat; at first, is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days +it grows rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page346" id="page346"></a>[pg 346]</span> +keep much longer. The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has +rather a strong taste; and the heart is nearly as well tasted +as that of a bullock. The fat, when melted, yields a good +deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and their hides, +which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging. +The teeth or tusks of most of them were, at this time, very +small; even some of the largest and oldest of these animals +had them not exceeding six inches in length. From this +we concluded, that they had lately shed their old teeth.</p> + +<p>They lie, in herds of many hundreds, upon the ice, huddling +one over the other like swine, and roar or bray very +loud, so that, in the night or in foggy weather, they gave us +notice of the vicinity of the ice before we could see it. We +never found the whole herd asleep, some being always upon +the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, would +wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually +communicated, the whole herd would be awake presently. +But they were seldom in a hurry to get away, till +after they had once been fired at. Then they would tumble +one over the other, into the sea, in the utmost confusion. +And if we did not, at the first discharge, kill those we fired +at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They +did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal some authors +have described, not even when attacked. They are +rather more so to appearance than in reality. Vast numbers +of them would follow, and come close up to the boats. But +the flash of a musket in the pan, or even the bare pointing +of one at them, would send them down in an instant. The +female will defend the young one to the very last, and at +the expense of her own life, whether in the water, or upon +the ice. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she +be dead; so that, if you kill one, you are sure of the other. +The dam, when in the water, holds the young one between +her fore-fins.</p> + +<p>Mr Pennant, in his <i>Synopsis Quadr.</i> p. 835,<a id="footnotetag97" name="footnotetag97"></a><a href="#footnote97"><sup>2</sup></a> has given a +very good description of this animal under the name of +<i>Arctic Walrus</i>, but I have no where seen a good drawing of +one. Why they should be called sea-horses is hard to +say, unless the word be a corruption of the Russian name +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page347" id="page347"></a>[pg 347]</span> +<i>Morse</i>, for they have not the least resemblance of a horse. +This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the +Gulf of St Laurence, and there called Sea-cow. It is certainly +more like a cow than a horse; but this likeness consists +in nothing but the snout. In short, it is an animal +like a seal, but incomparably larger. The dimensions and +weight of one, which was none of the largest, were as follows:—</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Feet. </td><td align="center">Inches.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Length from the snout to the tail</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">9</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Length of the neck, from the snout to the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">shoulder-bone</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Height of the shoulder</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Length of the fins</td><td align="left">Fore</td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Hind</td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Breadth of the fins</td><td align="left">Fore</td><td align="center">1</td><td align="center">2-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Hind</td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Snout</td><td align="left">Breadth</td><td align="center">0</td><td align="center">5-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Depth</td><td align="center">1</td><td align="center">3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Circumference of the neck close to the ears</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Circumference of the body at the shoulder</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">7</td><td align="center">10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Circumference near the hind fins</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From the snout to the eyes</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">0</td><td align="center">7</td></tr> +</table> + +<br /> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Weight of the carcase, without</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> the head, skin, or entrails</td><td align="center">854</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Head</td><td align="center">41-1/2</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Skin</td><td align="center">205</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There +was nothing in the maws of those we killed.</p> + +<p>It is worth observing, that for some days before this date, +we had frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. +They were of two sorts, the one much larger than +the other, the largest were of a brown colour; and, of the +small sort, either the duck or drake was black and white, +and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also. +Does not this indicate that there must be land to the north, +where these birds find shelter, in the proper season, to +breed, and from whence they were now returning to a warmer +climate?</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page348" id="page348"></a>[pg 348]</span> + +<p>By the time that we had got our sea-horses on board, we +were, in a manner, surrounded with the ice, and had no +way left to clear it, but by standing to the southward, +which was done till three o'clock next morning, with a gentle +breeze westerly, and for the most part, thick, foggy +weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. +We then tacked, and stood to the north till ten +o'clock, when the wind veering to the northward, we directed +our course to the S.W. and W. At two in the afternoon, +we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of which +we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses, +for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued +sailing till near midnight, when we got in amongst the loose +ice, and heard the surge of the sea upon the main ice.</p> + +<p>The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now +hauled to the southward; and, at ten o'clock the next +morning, the fog clearing away, we saw the continent of +America, extending from S. by E. to E. by S., and at noon, +from S.W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five leagues distant. +At this time we were in the latitude of 69° 32', and in the +longitude of 195° 48'; and as the main ice was at no great +distance from us, it is evident that it now covered a part of +the sea, which, but a few days before, had been clear, and +that it extended farther to the S., than where we first fell +in with it. It must not be understood, that I supposed any +part of this ice which we had seen to be fixed; on the +contrary, I am well assured, that the whole was a moveable +mass.</p> + +<p>Having but little wind in the afternoon, I sent the master +in a boat, to try if there was any current, but he found +none. I continued to steer in for the American land, until +eight o'clock, in order to get a nearer view of it, and to +look for a harbour; but seeing nothing like one, I stood +again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this time, +the coast, extended from S.W. to E., the nearest part four +or five leagues distant. The southern extreme seemed to +form a point, which was named <i>Cape Lisburne</i>. It lies in +the latitude of 69° 5', and in the longitude of 194° 42', and +appeared to be pretty high land, even down to the sea. But +there may be low land under it, which we might not see, +being not less than ten leagues distant from it. Every +where else, as we advanced northward, we had found a low +coast, from which the land rises to a middle height. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page349" id="page349"></a>[pg 349]</span> +coast now before us was without snow, except in one or two +places, and had a greenish hue. But we could not perceive +any wood upon it.</p> + +<p>On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather +mostly foggy, with some intervals of sunshine. At eight in +the evening it fell calm, which continued till midnight, +when we heard the surge of the sea against the ice, and had +several loose pieces about us. A light breeze now sprung +up at N.E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to the +southward to clear the ice. At eight o'clock next morning, +the fog dispersed, and I hauled to the westward. For, finding +that I could not get to the north near the coast, on account +of the ice, I resolved to try what could be done at a +distance from it; and as the wind seemed to be settled at +north, I thought it a good opportunity.</p> + +<p>As we advanced to the west, the water deepened gradually +to twenty-eight fathoms, which was the most we had. +With the northerly wind the air was raw, sharp, and cold, +and we had fogs, sunshine, showers of snow and sleet, by +turns. At ten in the morning of the 26th, we fell in with +the ice. At noon, it extended from N.W. to E. by N., and +appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, +by observation, in the latitude 69° 36', and in the longitude +of 184°; so that it now appeared we had no better prospect +of getting to the north here, than nearer the shore.</p> + +<p>I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, +when we were in a manner embayed by the ice, +which appeared high, and very close in the N.W. and +N.E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice about the edge +of the main field. At this time we had baffling light winds, +but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale, with +showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to +the eastward, this being the only direction in which the sea +was clear of ice.</p> + +<p>At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood +to the W., and, at seven in the evening, we were close +in with the edge of the ice, which lay E.N.E., and W.S.W., +as far each way as the eye could reach. Having but little +wind, I went with the boats to examine the state of the ice. +I found it consisting of loose pieces, of various extent, and +so close together, that I could hardly enter the outer edge +with a boat; and it was as impossible for the ships to enter +it, as if it had been so many rocks. I took particular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page350" id="page350"></a>[pg 350]</span> +notice, that it was all pure transparent ice, except the upper +surface, which was a little porous. It appeared to be entirely +composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed +at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or rather +impossibility, of such huge masses floating out of rivers, in +which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions +of the land were found incorporated, or fixed in it, +which must have unavoidably been the case, had it been +formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice +that formed the outer edge of the field, were from forty or +fifty yards in extent, to four or five; and I judged, that the +larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under the surface +of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable, that +this ice could have been the production of the preceding +winter alone. I should suppose it rather to have been the +production of a great many winters. Nor was it less improbable, +according to my judgment, that the little that remained +of the summer could destroy the tenth part of what +now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted +upon it the full influence of his rays. Indeed I am of opinion, +that the sun contributes very little toward reducing +these great masses. For although that luminary is a considerable +while above the horizon, it seldom shines out for +more than a few hours at a time, and often is not seen for +several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the +waves raised by the wind, that brings down the bulk of +these enormous masses, by grinding one piece against another, +and by undermining and washing away those parts +that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. This was evident, +from our observing, that the upper surface of many pieces +had been partly washed away, while the base or under part +remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared +above water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. +We measured the depth of water upon one, and found it +to be fifteen feet, so that the ships might have sailed over +it. If I had not measured this depth, I would not have believed +that there was a sufficient weight of ice above the +surface to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it +may happen, that more ice is destroyed in one stormy season, +than is formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation +is prevented. But that there is always a remaining +store, every one who has been upon the spot will +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page351" id="page351"></a>[pg 351]</span> +conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers will dispute.<a id="footnotetag98" name="footnotetag98"></a><a href="#footnote98"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed +with the boats, hastened me aboard, rather sooner than I +could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. We +had killed more, but could not wait to bring them with us. +The number of these animals, on all the ice that we had +seen, is almost incredible. We spent the night standing +off and on amongst the drift ice; and at nine o'clock the +next morning, the fog having partly dispersed, boats from +each ship were sent for sea-horses. For, by this time, our +people began to relish them, and those we had procured +before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude was 69° +17', our longitude 183°, the variation by the morning azimuths, +25° 56' E., and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. +At two o'clock, having got on board as much marine +beef as was thought necessary, and the wind freshening +at S.S.E., we took on board the boats, and stretched to +the S.W. But not being able to weather the ice upon this +tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the east, till +eight o'clock, then resumed our course to the S.W., and +before midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of +the ice. Soon after, the wind shifted to the N.W., blowing +a stiff gale, and we stretched to the S.W., close hauled.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page352" id="page352"></a>[pg 352]</span> +northward, and not long after, land bearing S.W. by W. +Presently after this, more land shewed itself, bearing W. +It shewed itself in two hills like islands, but afterward the +whole appeared connected. As we approached the land, +the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at noon, +when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms, being three +miles from the coast, which extended from S., 30° E., to +N., 60° W. This last extreme terminated in a bluff point, +being one of the hills above mentioned.</p> + +<p>The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling +rain; but soon after it cleared, especially to the southward, +westward, and northward. This enabled us to have a pretty +good view of the coast, which, in every respect, is like the +opposite one of America; that is, low land next the sea, +with elevated land farther back. It was perfectly destitute +of wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered with +a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. In the +low ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was +a lake, extending to the S.E., farther than we could see. +As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before +mentioned came open off the bluff point, in the direction +of N.W. It had the appearance of being an island; but +it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did +not see it. And if so, there is a two-fold point, with a bay +between them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was +named <i>Cape North</i>. Its situation is nearly in the latitude +of 68° 56', and in the longitude of 180° 51'. The coast +beyond it must take a very westerly direction; for we +could see no land to the northward of it, though the horizon +was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more +of the coast to the westward, we tacked again at two o'clock +in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. +But finding we could not, the wind freshening, a thick fog +coming on, with much snow, and being fearful of the ice +coming down upon us, I gave up the design I had formed +of plying to the westward, and stood off shore again.</p> + +<p>The season was now so far advanced, and the time when +the frost is expected to set in so near at hand, that I did +not think it consistent with prudence, to make any farther +attempts to find a passage into the Atlantic this year, in +any direction, so little was the prospect of succeeding. My +attention was now directed toward finding out some place +where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page353" id="page353"></a>[pg 353]</span> +and the object uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should +spend the winter, so as to make some improvements in +geography and navigation, and, at the same time, be in a +condition to return to the north, in farther search of a passage, +the ensuing summer.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote96" name="footnote96"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag96"> (return) </a><p>If the account of Beering's voyage had been accurately given, +Captain +Cook need not have hesitated about the situation or nature of the place he +now visited. Captain Billings afterwards anchored in the same bay on his +voyage to complete the discoveries of Cook, as related in Mr Coxe's work. +Still, however, our acquaintance with this part of Asia is very imperfect. +Captain Cook, it may be proper to remark here, had the merit of ascertaining +the vicinity of the two continents, which had been but vaguely conjectured +before his time.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote97" name="footnote97"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag97"> (return) </a><p>Mr Pennant, since Captain Cook wrote this, has described this +animal +in a work which he calls Arctic Zoology. We refer the reader to +N° 72. of that work.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote98" name="footnote98"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag98"> (return) </a><p>These observations of Captain Cook, in addition to some remarks +which were formerly given on the subject, seem conclusive against the +supposition of such large masses of ice being the product of rivers, as has +not unfrequently been maintained. They may, however, have proceeded +from land in another way, being occasioned by the consolidation of snow +into such masses as were of sufficient weight to separate from the declivities +where they had been formed. This undoubtedly may sometimes +happen; but the explanation of their origin formerly offered, seems much +more entitled to consideration, as a generally operating cause. The last +remark which Captain Cook makes, appears to have been levelled at some +would-be-wise heads, who had hazarded reflections about the possibility +of some time or other finding an open sea in high latitudes. But, however +illiberally stated, it is in all probability just, though for a reason unknown +to Cook. The chemical reader will perceive we allude to the circumstance +of the absorption of heat that takes places during the liquefaction +of ice, in consequence of which the temperature of the surrounding +atmosphere is reduced so much, as to prevent any more of the ice being +dissolved. A contrary operation, as is now well known, takes place during +the congelation of water, and heat is evolved. Thus then the cold of +winter is moderated. And so, on the whole, the temperature is kept +more uniform, than, without such adjustment, would be the case.—E.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION X.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia.—Views of +the Country.—Burner's Island.—Cape Serdze Kamen, the +Northern Limit of Beering's Voyage.—Pass the East Cape +of Asia.—Description and Situation of it.—Observations on +Muller.—The Tschutski.—Bay of Saint Laurence.—Two +other Bays, and Habitations of the Natives.—Beering's +Cape Tschukotskoi.—Beering's Position of this Coast accurate.—Island +of Saint Laurence.—Pass to the American +Coast.—Cape Darby.—Bald Head.—Cape Denbigh, on a +Peninsula.—Besborough Island.—Wood and Water procured.—Visits +from the Natives.—Their Persons and Habitations.—Produce +of the Country.—Marks that the Peninsula +had formerly been surrounded by the Sea.—Lieutenant +King's Report.—Norton Sound.—Lunar Observations there.—Stæhlin's +Map proved to be erroneous,—Plan of future +Operations.</i></blockquote> + +<p>After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms +water, I bore up to the eastward, along the coast, +which, by this time; it was pretty certain, could only be +the continent of Asia. As the wind blew fresh, with a very +heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was necessary to +proceed with great caution. I therefore brought-to for a +few hours in the night.</p> + +<p>At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered +such a course as I thought would bring us in with the +land, being in a great measure guided by the lead. For +the weather was as thick as ever, and it snowed incessantly. +At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing S.W., four +miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water +to seven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very +low point, or spit, bore S.S.W., two or three miles distant; +to the E. of which there appeared to be a narrow channel, +leading into some water that we saw over the point. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page354" id="page354"></a>[pg 354]</span> +Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here with +the sea.</p> + +<p>At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had +a tolerably good view of the coast, which extended from +S.E. to N.W. by W. Some parts appeared higher than +others; but in general it was very low, with high land farther +up the country. The whole was now covered with +snow, which had lately fallen quite down to the sea. I +continued to range along the coast at two leagues distance, +till ten at night, when we hauled off; but we resumed our +course next morning, soon after day-break, when we got +sight of the coast again, extending from W. to S.E. by S. +At eight, the eastern part bore S., and proved to be an +island, which at noon bore S.W. 1/2 S., four or five miles +distant. It is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling +height, with a steep, rocky coast, situated about three +leagues from the main, in the latitude of 67° 45', and distinguished +in the chart by the name of <i>Burney's Island</i>.</p> + +<p>The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of +which are of a considerable height. The land was covered +with snow, except a few spots upon the sea-coast, which +still continued low, but less so than farther westward. For +the two preceding days, the mean height of the mercury +in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing +point, and often below it; so that the water in the vessels +upon the deck was frequently covered with a sheet of ice.</p> + +<p>I continued to steer S.S.E., nearly in the direction of the +coast, till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing +S., 50° E., which we presently found to be a continuation +of the coast, and hauled up for it. Being abreast of +the eastern land at ten at night, and in doubts of weathering +it, we tacked, and made a board to the westward, till +past one the next morning, when we stood again to the +east, and found that it was as much as we could do to keep +our distance from the coast, the wind being exceedingly +unsettled, varying continually from N. to N.E. At half +an hour past eight, the eastern extreme above mentioned +bore S. by E., six or seven miles distant. At the same +time, a head-land appeared in sight, bearing E. by S., 1/2 S.; +and, soon after, we could trace the whole coast lying between +them, and a small island at some distance from it.</p> + +<p>The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected +by a low shore, without the least appearance of a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page355" id="page355"></a>[pg 355]</span> +harbour. At some distance from the sea, the low land appeared +to swell into a number of hills. The highest of +these were covered with snow, and, in other respects, the +whole country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, +two points of land, at some distance beyond the eastern +head, opened off it, in the direction of S., 37° E. I was +now well assured, of what I had believed before, that this +was the country of the Tschutski, or the N.E. coast of +Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that +is, to this head, which Muller says is called <i>Serdze Kamen</i>, +on account of a rock upon it, shaped like a heart. But I +conceive, that Mr Muller's knowledge of the geography of +these parts is very imperfect. There are many elevated +rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of +them may have the shape or a heart. It is a pretty lofty +promontory, with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and +lies in the latitude of 67° 3', and in the longitude of 188° +11'. To the eastward of it, the coast is high and bold; +but to the westward it is low, and trends N.N.W., and +N.W. by W., which is nearly its direction all the way to +Cape North. The soundings are every where the same at +the same distance from the shore, which is also the case on +the opposite shore of America. The greatest depth we +found in ranging along it was twenty-three fathoms. And, +in the night, or in foggy weather, the soundings are no +bad guide in sailing along either of these shores.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced +land to the S.E., bore S., 25° E., and from this +point of view had the appearance of being an island. But +the thick snow showers, which succeeded one another pretty, +fast, and settled upon the land, hid great part of the coast +at this time from our sight. Soon after, the sun, whose +face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the +intervals between the showers, and, in some measure, freed +the coast from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and +found the whole to be connected. The wind still continued +at north, the air was cold, and the mercury in the +thermometer never rose above 35°, and was sometimes as +low as 30°. At noon the observed latitude was 66° 37', +Cape Serdze Kamen bore N., 52° W., thirteen leagues distant; +the southernmost point of land in sight S., 41° E., +the nearest part of the coast two leagues distant, and our +depth of water twenty-two fathoms.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page356" id="page356"></a>[pg 356]</span> + +<p>We had now fair weather and sunshine, and as we ranged +along the coast, at the distance of four miles, we saw +several of the inhabitants, and some of their habitations, +which looked like little hillocks of earth. In the evening +we passed the <i>Eastern Cape</i>, or the point above mentioned, +from which the coast changes its direction, and trends +S.W. It is the same point of land which we had passed +on the 11th of August. They who believed implicitly in +Mr Stæhlin's map, then thought it the east point of his +island Alaschka; but we had, by this time, satisfied ourselves, +that it is no other than the eastern promontory of +Asia, and probably the proper <i>Tschukotskoi Noss</i>, though +the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther +to the S.W.</p> + +<p>Though Mr Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, +places the Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75° of latitude, +and extends it somewhat to the eastward of this cape, +it appears to me, that he had no good authority for so doing. +Indeed, his own accounts, or rather Deshneff's,<a id="footnotetag99" name="footnotetag99"></a><a href="#footnote99"><sup>1</sup></a> of +the distance between the Noss, and the river Anadir, cannot +be reconciled with this very northerly position. But +as I hope to visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion +of this point till then. In the mean time, I must +conclude, as Beering did before me, that this is the most +eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of considerable +height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to appearance, +narrow neck of land. It shews a steep rocky +clift next the sea, and off the very point are some rocks like +spires. It is situated in the latitude of 66° 6', and in the +longitude of 190° 22', and is distant from Cape Prince of +Wales, on the American coast, thirteen leagues, in the direction +of N., 53° W. The land about this promontory is +composed of hills and vallies. The former terminate at +the sea in steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. +The hills seemed to be naked rocks; but the vallies had a +greenish hue, but destitute of tree or shrub.<a id="footnotetag100" name="footnotetag100"></a><a href="#footnote100"><sup>2</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page357" id="page357"></a>[pg 357]</span> + +<p>After passing the cape, I steered S.W. 1/2 W., for the +northern point of St Laurence Bay, in which we had anchored +on the 10th of last month. We reached it by eight +o'clock next morning, and saw some of the inhabitants at +the place where I had seen them before, as well as several +others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, +however, attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little +extraordinary, as the weather was favourable enough; +and those whom we had lately visited had no reason, that +I know of, to dislike our company. These people must be +the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr Muller wrote, +the Russians had not been able to conquer. And, from +the whole of their conduct with us, it appears that they +have not, as yet, brought them under subjection; though +it is obvious that they must have a trade with the Russians, +either directly, or by means of some neighbouring nation, +as we cannot otherwise account for their being in possession +of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took +notice.</p> + +<p>This bay of St Laurence<a id="footnotetag101" name="footnotetag101"></a><a href="#footnote101"><sup>3</sup></a> is, at least, five leagues broad +at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing towards +the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered +from the sea-winds, provided there be a sufficient depth +of water for ships. I did not wait to examine it, although +I was very desirous of finding an harbour in those parts, to +which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one where +wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found +here. From the south point of this bay, which lies in the +latitude of 65° 30', the coast trends W. by S., for about +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page358" id="page358"></a>[pg 358]</span> +nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay, or river, or else +the land there is so low that we could not see it.</p> + +<p>At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, +we saw what was first taken for a rock; but it proved to be +a dead whale, which some natives of the Asiatic coast had +killed, and were towing ashore. They seemed to conceal +themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen by us. This +was unnecessary, for we pursued our course, without taking +any notice of them.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the N.W., in order +to get a nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; +but the wind, soon after, veering to that direction, I gave +up the design; and steered to the southward along the +coast, past two bays, each about two leagues deep. The +northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by being +rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is +an island lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether +there be a sufficient depth for ships in either of these +bays, as we always met with shoal water, when we edged +in for the shore. The country here is exceedingly hilly +and naked. In several places on the low ground, next the +sea, were the dwellings of the natives; and near all of +them were erected stages of bones, such as before described. +These may be seen at a great distance, on account of their +whiteness.</p> + +<p>At noon the latitude was 64° 31', and the longitude 188° +45'; the southernmost point of the main in sight bore S., +48° W., and the nearest shore about three or four leagues +distant. By this time, the wind had veered again to the +N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather was clear, and +the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the coast, +as I found that it look a westerly direction toward the +Gulf of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, +but steered to the southward, in order to get a sight of the +island of St Laurence, discovered by Beering, which accordingly +shewed itself, and at eight o'clock in the evening, +it bore S., 20° E., by estimation, eleven leagues distant. +At the same time, the southernmost point of the +main land bore S., 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take +this to be the point which Beering calls the east point of +Suchotski, or <i>Cape Tschukotskoi</i>; a name which he gave it, +and with propriety, because it was from this part of the +coast that the natives came off to him, who called +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page359" id="page359"></a>[pg 359]</span> +themselves of the nation of Tschutski. I make its latitude to +be 64° 13', and its longitude 186° 36'.</p> + +<p>In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he +has delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude +and longitude of the points better than could be expected +from the methods he had to go by. This judgment is not +formed from Mr Muller's account of the voyage, or the +chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr Campbell's account +of it in his edition of Harris's collection, and a map +thereto annexed, which is both more circumstantial and +accurate than that of Mr Muller.</p> + +<p>The more I was convinced of my being now upon the +coast of Asia, the more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr +Stæhlin's map of the New Northern Archipelago with my +observations; and I had no way to account for the great +difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some +part of what he calls the island of Alaschka for the American +continent, and had missed the channel that separates +them. Admitting even this, there would still have been a +considerable difference. It was with me a matter of some +consequence, to clear up this point the present season, that +I might have but one object in view the next. And, as +these northern isles are represented by him as abounding +with wood, I was in hopes, if I should find them, of getting +a supply of that article, which we now began to be in great +want of on board.</p> + +<p>With these views, I steered over for the American coast; +and, at five in the afternoon the next day, saw land bearing +S. 1/4 E., which we took to be Anderson's Island, or +some other land near it, and therefore did not wait to examine +it. On the 6th, at four in the morning, we got sight +of the American coast near Sledge Island; and at six, the +same evening, this island bore N., 6° E., ten leagues distant; +and the easternmost land in sight N., 49° E. If any +part of what I had supposed to be American coast could +possibly be the island of Alaschka, it was that now before +us; and in that case, I must have missed the channel between +it and the main, by steering to the west, instead of +the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not, therefore, +at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these +doubts.</p> + +<p>At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in +with the land, Sledge Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page360" id="page360"></a>[pg 360]</span> +nine leagues distant; and the eastern part of the coast N. +70° E., with high land in the direction of E. by N., seemingly +at a great distance beyond the point. At this time +we saw a light ashore, and two canoes, filled with people, +coming off toward us. I brought-to, that they might have +time to come up. But it was to no purpose; for, resisting +all the signs of friendship we could exhibit, they kept at +the distance of a quarter of a mile; so that we left them, +and pursued our course along the coast.</p> + +<p>At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water +shoal pretty fast, we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where +we lay until day-light, and then resumed our course along +the coast, which we found to trend E., and E. 1/2 S. At seven +in the evening, we were abreast of a point, lying in +the latitude of 64° 21', and in the longitude of 197°, beyond +which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At +eight, this point, which obtained the name of <i>Cape Darby</i>, +bore S. 62° W.; the northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E., +and the nearest shore three miles distant. In this situation +we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at day-break, we weighed, and sailed +along the coast. Two islands, as we supposed them to be, +were at that time seen, the one bearing S. 70° E., and the +other E. Soon after, we found ourselves upon a coast covered +with wood; an agreeable sight, to which of late we +had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, +we raised land in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N., which proved +to be a continuation of the coast we were upon. We also +saw high land over the islands, seemingly at a good distance +beyond them. This was thought to be the continent, +and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it was already +doubtful, whether we should find a passage between +them; for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced +further to the north. In this situation, two boats were sent +to sound before the ships, and I ordered the Discovery to +lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, between the coast +on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our starboard. +Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon, +when, having passed the island, we had not more than +three fathoms and a half of water, and the Resolution, at +one time, brought the mud up from the bottom. More +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page361" id="page361"></a>[pg 361]</span> +water was not to be found in any part of the channel, for, +with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side.</p> + +<p>I therefore thought it high time to return, especially as +the wind was in such a quarter that we must ply back. +But what I dreaded most was the wind increasing, and +raising the sea into waves, so as to put the ships in danger +of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west shore, +which is distinguished by the name of <i>Bald Head</i>, bore N. +by W., one league distant. The coast beyond it extended +as far as N.E. by N., where it seemed to end in a point, behind +which the coast of the high land, seen over the islands, +stretched itself, and some thought they could trace where +it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the shore forms +a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw +a number of huts or habitations of the natives.</p> + +<p>Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break +the next morning we had got into six fathoms water. At +nine o'clock, being about a league from the west shore, I +took two boats, and landed, attended by Mr King, to seek +wood and water. We landed where the coast projects out +into a bluff head, composed of perpendicular <i>strata</i> of a +rock of a dark-blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. +There joins to the beach a narrow border of land, +now covered with long grass, and where we met with some +<i>angelica</i>. Beyond this, the ground rises abruptly. At the +top of this elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a +variety of berries; and further on, the country was level, +and thinly covered with small spruce-trees, and birch and +willows no bigger than broom-stuff. We observed tracks +of deer and foxes on the beach; on which also lay a great +quantity of drift-wood, and there was no want of fresh water. +I returned on board, with an intention to bring the +ships to an anchor here; but the wind then veering to +N.E., which blew rather on this shore, I stretched over to +the opposite one, in the expectation of finding wood there +also, and anchored at eight o'clock in the evening, under +the south end of the northernmost island, so we then supposed +it to be; but, next morning, we found it to be a +peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, +on each side of which the coast forms a bay. We plied +into the southernmost, and about noon anchored in five fathoms +water, over a bottom of mud; the point of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page362" id="page362"></a>[pg 362]</span> +peninsula, which obtained the name of <i>Cape Denbigh</i>, bearing +N. 68° W., three miles distant.</p> + +<p>Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one +man came off in a small canoe. I gave him a knife, and +a few beads, with which he seemed well pleased. Having +made signs to him to bring us something to eat, he immediately +left us, and paddled toward the shore. But meeting +another man coming off, who happened to have two +dried salmon, he got them from him; and on returning to +the ship, would give them to nobody but me. Some of +our people thought that he asked for me under the name +of <i>Capitane</i>; but in this they were probably mistaken. He +knew who had given him the knife and beads, but I do not +see how he could know that I was the captain. Others of +the natives soon after came off, and exchanged a few dry +fish, for such trifles as they could get, or we had to give +them. They were most desirous of knives, and they had +no dislike to tobacco.</p> + +<p>After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, +to see if wood and water were there to be got, or rather +water; for the whole beach round the bay seemed to be +covered with drift-wood. At the same time, a boat was +sent from each ship, to sound round the bay; and, at three +in the afternoon, the wind freshening at N.E., we weighed, +in order to work farther in. But it was soon found to be +impossible, on account of the shoals, which extended quite +round the bay, to the distance of two or three miles from +the shore, as the officers, who had been sent to sound, reported. +We, therefore, kept standing off and on with the +ships, waiting for Mr Gore, who returned about eight +o'clock, with the launch laden with wood.</p> + +<p>He reported, that there was but little fresh water; and +that wood was difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats +grounding at some distance from the beach. This being +the case, I stood back to the other shore; and, at eight +o'clock the next morning, sent all the boats, and a party of +men with an officer, to get wood from the place where I +had landed two days before. We continued for a while to +stand on and off with the ships; but, at length, came to an +anchor in one-fourth less than five fathoms, half a league +from the coast, the south point of which bore S. 26° W.; +and Bald Head, N. 60° E., nine leagues distant. Cape +Denbigh bore S. 72° E., twenty-six miles distant; and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page363" id="page363"></a>[pg 363]</span> +island under the east shore, to the southward of Cape Denbigh, +named <i>Besborough Island</i>, S. 52° E., fifteen leagues +distant.</p> + +<p>As this was a very open road, and consequently not a +safe station, I resolved not to wait to complete water, as +that would require some time; but only to supply the ships +with wood, and then to go in search of a more convenient +place for the other article. We took off the drift-wood +that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along shore, +the boats could sail both ways, which enabled us to make +great dispatch.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, I went ashore, and walked a little into +the country, which, where there was no wood, was covered +with heath and other plants, some of which produce berries +in abundance. All the berries were ripe, the hurtle-berries +too much so, and hardly a single plant was in flower. The +underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders, rendered it +very troublesome walking amongst the trees, which were +all spruce, and none of them above six or eight inches in +diameter. But we found some lying upon the beach more +than twice this size. All the drift-wood in these northern +parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any other sort.</p> + +<p>Next day, a family of the natives came near to the place +where we were taking off wood. I know not how many +there were at first; but I saw only the husband, the wife, +and their child; and a fourth person who bore the human +shape, and that was all; for he was the most deformed +cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost +blind; and neither he nor his wife were such good-looking +people as we had sometimes seen amongst the natives +of this coast. The under-lips of both were bored; and +they had in their possession some such glass-beads as I had +met with before amongst their neighbours. But iron was +their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made +out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near four hundred +pounds weight of fish, which they had caught on this +or the preceding day. Some were trout, and the rest were, +in size and taste, somewhat between a mullet and a herring. +I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads; on +which the mother burst into tears, then the father, then +the cripple, and at last, to complete the concert, the girl +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page364" id="page364"></a>[pg 364]</span> +herself. But this music continued not long.<a id="footnotetag102" name="footnotetag102"></a><a href="#footnote102"><sup>4</sup></a> Before night, +we had got the ships, amply supplied with wood; and had +carried on board about twelve tons of water to each.</p> + +<p>On the 14th, a party of men were sent on shore to cut +brooms, which we were in want of, and the branches of +spruce trees for brewing beer. Toward noon, every body +was taken on board; for the wind freshening, had raised +such a surf on the beach, that the boats could not continue +to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being +still entertained, whether the coast we were now upon belonged +to an island or the American continent; and the +shallowness of the water putting it out of our power to determine +this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King, with +two boats under his command, to make such searches as +might leave no room for a variety of opinions on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page365" id="page365"></a>[pg 365]</span> +subject.<a id="footnotetag103" name="footnotetag103"></a><a href="#footnote103"><sup>5</sup></a> Next day, the ships removed over to the bay, which +is on the S.E. side of Cape Denbigh, where we anchored +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page366" id="page366"></a>[pg 366]</span> +in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the natives came off +in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon for +such trifles as our people had to give them.</p> + +<p>At day-break, on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, +paid us a visit. They approached the ship with some caution; +and evidently came with no other view than to gratify +their curiosity. They drew up abreast of each other, +under our stern, and gave us a song; while one of their +number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a +thousand antic motions with his hands and body. There +was, however, nothing savage either in the song or in the +gestures that accompanied it. None of us could perceive +any difference between these people, either as to their size +or features, and those whom we had met with on every +other part of the coast, King George's Sound excepted. +Their clothing, which consisted principally of deer-skins, +was made after the same fashion; and they observed the +custom of boring their under-lips, and fixing ornaments to +them.</p> + +<p>The dwellings of these people were seated close to the +beach. They consist simply of a sloping roof, without any +side-walls, composed of logs, and covered with grass and +earth. The floor is also laid with logs; the entrance is at +one end; the fire-place just within it, and a small hole is +made near the door to let out the smoke.</p> + +<p>After breakfast, a party of men were sent to the peninsula +for brooms and spruce. At the same time, half the remainder +of the people in each ship had leave to go and +pick berries. These returned on board at noon, when the +other half went on the same errand. The berries to be got +here were wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries, +and heath-berries. I also went ashore myself, and +walked over part of the peninsula. In several places there +was very good grass; and I hardly saw a spot on which +some vegetable was not growing. The low land which +connects this peninsula with the continent is full of narrow +creeks; and abounds with ponds of water, some of which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page367" id="page367"></a>[pg 367]</span> +were already frozen over. There were a great many geese +and bustards; but so shy, that it was not possible to get +within musket-shot of them. We also met with some snipes, +and on the high ground were partridges of two sorts. +Where there was any wood, musquitoes were in plenty. +Some of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met +with a few of the natives of both sexes, who treated them +with civility.</p> + +<p>It appeared to me, that this peninsula must have been +an island in remote times; for there were marks of the +sea having flowed over the isthmus. And even now, it appeared +to be kept out by a bank of sand, stones, and wood, +thrown up by the waves. By this bank, it was evident, that +the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was +easy to trace its gradual formation.</p> + +<p>About seven, in the evening, Mr King returned from his +expedition; and reported, that he proceeded with the boats +about three or four leagues farther than the ships had been +able to go; that he then landed on the west side; that, +from the heights, he could see the two coasts join, and the +inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which +were banks of sand or mud; and every where shoal water. +The land, too, was low and swampy for some distance to +the northward; then it swelled into hills; and the complete +junction of those, on each side of the inlet, was easily +traced.</p> + +<p>From the elevated spot on which Mr King surveyed the +Sound, he could distinguish many extensive valleys, with +rivers running through them, well wooded, and bounded +by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate height. One of +these rivers to the N.W. appeared to be considerable; and +from its direction, he was inclined to think, that it emptied +itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his +people, who penetrated beyond this into the country, found +the trees larger the farther they advanced.<a id="footnotetag104" name="footnotetag104"></a><a href="#footnote104"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + +<p>In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton,<a id="footnotetag105" name="footnotetag105"></a><a href="#footnote105"><sup>7</sup></a> Speaker of the House +of Commons, and Mr King's nearest relation, I named this +inlet <i>Norton Sound</i>. It extends to the northward as far as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page368" id="page368"></a>[pg 368]</span> +the latitude of 64° 55'. The bay, in which we were now at +anchor, lies on the S.E. side of it; and is called by the natives +<i>Chacktoole</i>. It is but an indifferent station, being exposed +to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a +harbour in all this Sound. But we were so fortunate as to +have the wind from the N. and N.E. all the time, with remarkable +fine weather. This gave us an opportunity to +make no less than seventy-seven sets of lunar observations +between the 6th and 7th inclusive. The mean result of +these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side of the +Sound, to be</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">197° 13'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Latitude</td><td align="left">64 31</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Variation of the compass</td><td align="left">25 45 east.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Dip of the needle</td><td align="left">76 25</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Of the tides, it was observed, that the night-flood rose +about two or three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly +perceivable.</p> + +<p>Having now fully satisfied myself, that Mr Stæhlin's +map must be erroneous; and having restored the American +continent to that space which he had occupied with his +imaginary island of Alaschka, it was high time to think of +leaving these northern regions, add to retire to some place +during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for +my people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, +or the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, +did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the +other for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other +reasons for not repairing thither at this time. The first, and +on which all the others depended, was the great dislike I +had to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would +have been the necessary consequence of wintering in any +of these northern parts. No place was so conveniently +within our reach, where we could expect to have our wants +relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, I +determined to proceed. But, before this could be carried +into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With +this view I resolved to search the American coast for a harbour, +by proceeding along it to the southward, and thus +endeavour to connect the survey of this part of it with that +lying immediately to the north of Cape Newenham. If I +failed in finding a harbour there my plan was then to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page369" id="page369"></a>[pg 369]</span> +proceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon as our place +of rendezvous, in case of separation.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote99" name="footnote99"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag99"> (return) </a><p>Avec le vent le plus favorable, on peut aller par mer de cette +pointe +(des Tschukotschis), jusqu' à l'Anadir en trois fois 24 heures; et par terre +le chemin ne peut guère etre plus long.—<i>Muller</i>, p. 13.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote100" name="footnote100"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag100"> (return) </a><p>Deshnef's voyage in 1648, is considered the only one previous to +this +of Cook, in which the north-eastern extremity of Asia was doubled. Some +account of it is given in Coxe's work. Others have pretended to this +achievement, but there is not evidence to warrant belief of the +fact. +Beering, indeed, in 1728, got as far north as 67° 18'; but as he immediately +returned, and made no progress on the Asiatic coast, he is not entitled +to this merit, although the extent of his discovery, as to the separation +of the two continents, has procured him the honour of giving a name +to the Strait which divides them.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote101" name="footnote101"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag101"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it on St +Laurence's +day, August 10. It is remarkable, that Beering sailed past this +very place on the 10th of August 1728; on which account, the neighbouring +island was named by him after the same Saint.—D.</p> + +<p>But Dr Douglas seems to err in this observation. At least, according +to Mr Coxe's account, it would appear, that it was the island of St Laurence, +which we shall immediately find Captain Cook afterwards fell in +with, and not the bay so named, which Beering passed on the 10th August. +This, however, is a trivial correction, if even the imperfect relation +we possess of Beering's progress could prove it to be one.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote102" name="footnote102"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag102"> (return) </a><p>Captain King has communicated the following account of an interview +with the same family: "On the 12th, while I attended the wooding +party, a canoe, full of natives, approached us; and, beckoning them +to land, an elderly man and woman came on shore. I gave the woman a +small knife, making her understand, that I would give, her a much larger +one for some fish. She made signs to me to follow her. I had proceeded +with them about a mile, when the man, in crossing a stony beach, fell +down, and cut his foot very much. This made me stop; upon which the +woman pointed to the man's eyes, which, I observed, were covered with +a thick, white film. He afterward kept close to his wife, who apprised +him of the obstacles in his way. The woman had a little child on her +back, covered with the hood of her jacket; and which I took for a bundle +till I heard it cry. At about two miles distant we came to their open skin +boat, which was turned on its side, the convex part towards the wind, +and served for their house. I was now made to perform a singular operation +on the man's eyes. First, I was directed to hold my breath; afterwards, +to breathe on the diseased eyes; and, next, to spit on them. The +woman then took both my hands, and pressing them to his stomach, held +them there for some time, while she related some calamitous history of +her family; pointing sometimes to her husband, sometimes to a frightful +cripple belonging to the family, and sometimes to her child. I purchased +all the fish they had, consisting of very fine salmon, salmon-trout, and +mullet; which were delivered most faithfully to the man I sent for them. +The man was about five feet two inches high, and well made; his colour +of a light copper; his hair black and short, and with little beard. He had +two holes in his under-lip, but no ornaments in them. The woman was +short and squat, with a plump round face; wore a deer-skin jacket, with +a large hood, and had on wide boots. The teeth of both were black, and +seemed as if they had been filed down level with the gums. The woman +was punctured from the lip to the chin."—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote103" name="footnote103"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag103"> (return) </a><p>Captain King has been so good as to communicate his instructions +on this occasion, and the particulars of the fatigue he underwent, in carrying +them into execution:</p> + +<p>"You are to proceed to the northward as far as the extreme point we +saw on Wednesday last, or a little further, if you think it necessary; land +there, and endeavour, from the heights, to discover whether the land you +are then upon, supposed to be the island of Alaschka, is really an island, +or joins to the land on the east, supposed to be the continent of America. +If the former, you are to satisfy yourself with the depth of water in +the channel between them, and which way the flood-tide comes. But if +you find the two lands connected, lose no time in sounding; but make +the best of your way back to the ship, which you will find at anchor near +the point of land we anchored under on Friday last. If you perceive any +likelihood of a change of weather for the worse, you are, in that case, to +return to the ship, although you have not performed the service you are +sent upon; and, at any rate, you are not to remain longer upon it than +four or five days; but the sooner it is done the better. If any unforeseen +or unavoidable accident should force the ships off the coast, so that they +cannot return at a reasonable time, the rendezvous is at the harbour of +Samganoodha; that is, the place where we last completed our water.</p> + +<div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> +<p>"JAMES COOK."</p> + </div> </div> + +<p>"<i>To Lieutenant King</i>."</p> + +<p>"Our cutter being hoisted out, and the signal made for the Discovery's, +at eight o'clock at night on the 14th, we set out. It was a little unlucky +that the boats' crews had been much fatigued during the whole day +in bringing things from the shore. They pulled stoutly, without rest or +intermission, +toward the land, till one o'clock in the morning of the 15th. +I wanted much to have gone close to it, to have had the advantage of the +wind, which had, very regularly in the evening, blown from the land, and +in the day-time down the Sound, from the N.N.E., and was contrary to +our course; but the men were at this time too much fatigued to press +them farther. We, therefore, set our sails, and stood across the bay, +which the coast forms to the west of Baldhead, and steered for it. But, +as I expected, by three o'clock, the wind headed us; and, as it was in +vain to endeavour to fetch Baldhead with our sails, we again took to the +oars. The Discovery's boat, (being a heavy king's-built cutter, while ours +was one from Deal,) had, in the night-time, detained us very much, and +now we soon pulled out of sight of her; nor would I wait, being in great +hopes to reach the extreme point that was in sight time enough to ascend +the heights before dark, as the weather was at this time remarkably clear +and fine, and we could see to a great distance. By two o'clock we had +got within two miles of Baldhead, under the lee of the high land, and in +smooth water; but, at the moment our object was nearly attained, all the +men but two were so overcome with fatigue and sleep, that my utmost +endeavours to make them put on were ineffectual. They at length dropped +their oars, quite exhausted, and fell asleep in the bottom of the boat. +Indeed, considering that they had set out fatigued, and had now been +sixteen hours out of the eighteen since they left the ship, pulling +in a poppling +sea, it was no wonder that their strength and spirits should be worn +out for want of sleep and refreshments. The two gentlemen who were +with me and myself, were now obliged to lay hold of the oars; and, by a +little after three, we landed between the Baldhead and a projecting point +to the eastward."—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote104" name="footnote104"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag104"> (return) </a><p>Here Mr Arrowsmith's map is to be preferred, as accurately +following +the description Captain King has given. Several names are omitted +by Mr Coxe, and his delineation of the coast is rather unsatisfactory.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote105" name="footnote105"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag105"> (return) </a><p>Afterwards Lord Grantley.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION XI.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound.—Stuart's Island.—Cape +Stephens.—Point Shallow-Water.—Shoals on the +American Coast.—Clerke's Island.—Gore's Island.—Pinnacle +Island.—Arrival at Oonalashka.—Intercourse with +the Natives and Russian Traders.—Charts of the Russian +Discoveries, communicated by Mr Ismyloff.—Their Errors +pointed out.—Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians.—Account +of their Settlement at Oonalashka.—Of the +Natives of the Island.—Their Persons.—Dress.—Ornaments.—Food.—Houses +and domestic Utensils.—Manufactures.—Manner +of producing Fire.—Canoes.—Fishing and +Hunting Implements.—Fishes, and Sea Animals.—Sea and +Water Fowls, and Land Birds.—Land Animals and Vegetables.—Manner +of burying the Dead.—Resemblance of the +Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and +Esquimaux.—Tides.—Observations for determining the Longitude +of Oonalashka.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Having weighed, on the 17th in the morning, with a +light breeze at east, we steered to the southward, and attempted +to pass within Besborough Island; but though it +lies six or seven miles from the continent, were prevented +by meeting with shoal water. As we had but little wind all +the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and the +night was spent under an easy sail.</p> + +<p>We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along +the coast. At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. +At this time the latitude was 63° 37'. Besborough, +Island now bore N., 42° E.; the southernmost land in +sight, which proved also to be an island, S., 66° W.; the +passage between it and the main S., 40° W.; and the +nearest land about two miles distant. I continued to steer +for this passage, until the boats, which were ahead, made +the signal for having no more than three fathoms water. +On this we hauled without the island; and made the signal +for the Resolution's boat to keep between the ships +and the shore.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page370" id="page370"></a>[pg 370]</span> + +<p>This island, which obtained the name of <i>Stuart's Island</i>, +lies in the latitude of 63° 35', and seventeen leagues from. +Cape Denbigh, in the direction of S., 27° W. It is six or +seven leagues in circuit. Some parts of it are of a middling +height; but, in general, it is low; with some rocks lying +off the western part. The coast of the continent is, for the +most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. +It forms a point, opposite the island, which was named +<i>Cape Stephens</i>, and lies in latitude 63° 33', and in longitude +197° 41'. Some drift wood was seen upon the shores, both +of the island and of the continent; but not a tree was perceived +growing upon either. One might anchor, upon occasion, +between the N.E. side of this island and the continent, +in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerly, +southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be +wholly exposed to the northerly winds, the land, in that direction, +being at too great distance to afford any security. +Before we reached Stuart's Island, we passed two small +islands, lying between us and the main; and as we ranged +along the coast, several people appeared upon the shore, +and, by signs, seemed to invite us to approach them.</p> + +<p>As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by +W., for the southernmost point of the continent in sight, +till eight o'clock in the evening, when, having shoaled the +water from six fathoms to less than four, I tacked, and stood +to the northward, into five fathoms, and then spent the +night plying off and on. At the time we tacked, the southernmost +point of land, the same which is mentioned above, +and was named <i>Point Shallow-Water</i>, bore S. 1/2 E., seven +leagues distant.</p> + +<p>We resumed our course to the southward at day-break +next morning, but shoal water obliged us to haul more +to the westward. At length, we got so far advanced upon +the bank, that we could not hold a N.N.W. course, meeting +sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing +fresh at E.N.E. it was high time to look for deep water, +and to quit a coast, upon which we could no longer navigate +with any degree of safety. I therefore hauled the wind +to the northward, and gradually deepened the water to +eight fathoms. At the same time we hauled the wind, we +were at least twelve leagues, from the continent, and nine +to the westward of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to +the southward of Point Shallow-Water, which I judge to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page371" id="page371"></a>[pg 371]</span> +lie in the latitude of 63°. So that, between this latitude and +Shoal Ness, in latitude 60°, the coast is entirely unexplored. +Probably, it is accessible only to boats, or very small +vessels; or at least, if there be channels for large vessels, +it would require some time to find them; and I am of +opinion, that they must be looked for near the coast. +From the mast-head, the sea within us appeared to be +chequered with shoals; the water was very much discoloured +and muddy, and considerably fresher than at any of +the places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, +that a considerable river runs into the sea in this +unknown part.<a id="footnotetag106" name="footnotetag106"></a><a href="#footnote106"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>As soon as we got into eight fathoms water, I steered to +the westward, and afterward more southerly, for the land +discovered on the 5th, which, at noon the next day, bore +S.W. by W., ten or eleven leagues distant. At this time we +had a fresh gale at north, with showers of hail and snow +at intervals, and a pretty high sea; so that we got clear of +the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land +before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's +Island, I named it <i>Clerke's Island</i>. It lies in the latitude of +63° 15', and in the longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to be +a pretty large island, in which are four or more hills, all +connected by low ground; so that, at a distance, it looks +like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a small island, +remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not +only the greater island, but this small spot, was inhabited.<a id="footnotetag107" name="footnotetag107"></a><a href="#footnote107"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>We got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about +six o'clock, and having ranged along its coast till dark, +brought-to during the night. At day-break, next morning, +we stood in again for the coast, and continued to range +along it in search of a harbour till noon; when, seeing no +likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered S.S.W. for +the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page372" id="page372"></a>[pg 372]</span> +having a fresh gale at north, with showers of sleet and snow. +I remarked, that as soon as we opened the channel which +separates the two continents, cloudy weather, with snow +showers, immediately commenced; whereas, all the time +we were in Norton Sound, we had, with the same wind, +clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by the mountains +to the north of that place attracting the vapours, and +hindering them to proceed any farther?</p> + +<p>At day-break, in the morning of the 23d, the land above +mentioned appeared in sight, bearing S.W., six or seven +leagues distant. From this point of view it resembled a +group of islands; but it proved to be but one, of thirty +miles in extent, in the direction of N.W. and S.E.; the S.E. +end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The +island is but narrow; especially at the low necks of land +that connect the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly +unknown to the Russians; and therefore, considering it +as a discovery of our own, I named it <i>Gore's Island</i>. It appeared +to be barren, and without inhabitants; at least we +saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about it as when +we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters; an animal +which we had not met with to the northward of this +latitude.<a id="footnotetag108" name="footnotetag108"></a><a href="#footnote108"><sup>3</sup></a> Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction +of S., 72° W., lies a small island, whose elevated summit +terminates in several pinnacled rocks. On this account +it was named <i>Pinnacle Island</i>. At two in the afternoon, after +passing Cape Upright, I steered S.E. by S., for Samganoodha, +with a gentle breeze at N.N.W., being resolved to +spend no more time in searching for a harbour amongst +islands, which I now began to suspect had no existence; +at least not in the latitude and longitude where modern +map-makers have thought proper to place them. In the +evening of the 24th, the wind veered to S.W. and S., and +increased to a fresh gale.</p> + +<p>We continued to stretch to the eastward, till eight o'clock +in the morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 191° +10', we tacked and stood to the west; and soon after, the +gale increasing, we were reduced to two courses, and close-reefed +main top-sails. Not long after, the Resolution sprung +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page373" id="page373"></a>[pg 373]</span> +a leak, under the starboard buttock, which filled the spirit-room +with water before it was discovered; and it was so +considerable as to keep one pump constantly employed. +We durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of +getting upon the shoals that lie to the N.W. of Cape Newenham; +but continued standing to the west till six in the +evening of the 26th, when we wore and stood to the eastward, +and then the leak no longer troubled us. This proved +that it was above the water line, which was no small +satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained +at S. and S.W. for some days longer.</p> + +<p>At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we saw +the island of Oonalashka, bearing S.E. But as this was to +us a new point of view, and the land was obscured by a +thick haze, we were not sure of our situation till noon, +when the observed latitude determined it. As all harbours +were alike to me, provided they were equally safe and convenient, +I hauled into a bay, that lies ten miles to the westward +of Samganoodha, known by the name of <i>Egoochshac</i>; +but we found very deep water; so that we were glad to get +out again. The natives, many of whom lived here, visited +us at different times, bringing with them dried salmon and +other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for tobacco. +But, a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that +was in the ship had been distributed among them; and the +quantity was not half sufficient to answer their demands. +Notwithstanding this, so improvident a creature is an English +sailor, that they were as profuse in making their bargains, +as if we had now arrived at a port in Virginia; by +which means, in less than eight and forty hours, the value +of this article of barter was lowered above a thousand per +cent.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored +in Samganoodha harbour; and the next morning the carpenters +of both ships were set to work to rip off the sheathing +of and under the wale, on the starboard side abaft. +Many of the seams were found quite open; so that it was +no wonder that so much water had found its way into the +ship. While we lay here, we cleared the fish and spirit +rooms, and the after-hold; disposing things in such a manner, +that in case we should happen to have any more leaks +of the same nature, the water might find its way to the +pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page374" id="page374"></a>[pg 374]</span> +we cleared the fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a +quantity of ballast.</p> + +<p>The vegetables which we had met with when we were +here before, were now mostly in a state of decay; so that +we were but little benefited by the great quantities of berries +every where found ashore. In order to avail ourselves +as much as possible of this useful refreshment, one third of +the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. Considerable +quantities of them were also procured from the +natives. If there were any seeds of the scurvy, in either +ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer, which they +had to drink every other day, effectually eradicated them.</p> + +<p>We also got plenty of fish; at first mostly salmon, both +fresh and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of +the fresh salmon was in high perfection; but there was +one sort, which we called hook-nosed, from the figure of +its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the seine several +times, at the head of the bay; and caught a good +many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two +hundred and fifty-four pounds. The fishery failing, we had +recourse to hooks and lines. A boat was sent out every +morning, and seldom returned without eight or ten halibut; +which was more than sufficient to serve all our people. +The halibut was excellent, and there were few who did not +prefer them to salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply +of fish for present consumption, but had some to carry +with us to sea. This enabled us to make a considerable saving +of our provisions, which was an object of no small importance.</p> + +<p>On the 8th, I received, by the hands of an Oonalashka +man, named Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering +the place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye made in, +the form of a loaf, for it inclosed some salmon, highly seasoned +with pepper. This man had the like present for Captain +Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a character +which none of us could read. It was natural to suppose, +that this present was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood; +and therefore we sent, by the same hand, to +these our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine, and +porter; which we thought would be as acceptable as anything +we had besides; and we soon knew that in this we +had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk, +Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page375" id="page375"></a>[pg 375]</span> +man, with orders, that if he met with any Russians, he +should endeavour to make them understand that we were +English, the friends and allies of their nation.<a id="footnotetag109" name="footnotetag109"></a><a href="#footnote109"><sup>4</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page376" id="page376"></a>[pg 376]</span> + +<p>On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Russian seamen, +or furriers, who, with some others, resided at Egoochshac, +where they had a dwelling-house, some store-houses, +and a sloop of about thirty tons burthen. One of these men +was either master or mate of this vessel, another of them +wrote a very good hand and understood figures, and they +were all three well-behaved intelligent men, and very ready +to give me all the information I could desire. But for want +of an interpreter, we had some difficulty to understand each +other. They appeared to have a thorough knowledge of +the attempts that had been made by their countrymen to +navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the discoveries which +had been made from Kamtschatka, by Beering, Tscherikoff, +and Spanberg. But they seemed to know no more of +Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, than his name.<a id="footnotetag110" name="footnotetag110"></a><a href="#footnote110"><sup>5</sup></a> Nor had they +the least idea what part of the world Mr Stæhlin's map referred +to, when it was laid before them. When I pointed +out Kamtschatka, and some other known places, upon that +map, they asked, whether I had seen the islands there laid +down; and on my answering in the negative, one of them +put his finger upon a part of this map, where a number of +islands are represented, and said, that he had cruized there +for land, but never could find any. I then laid before them +my own chart, and found that they were strangers to every +part of the American coast, except what lies opposite this +island. One of these men said, that he had been with Beering +in his American voyage, but must then have been very +young, for he had not now, at the distance of thirty-seven +years, the appearance of being aged. Never was there +greater respect paid to the memory of any distinguished +person, than by these men to that of Beering.<a id="footnotetag111" name="footnotetag111"></a><a href="#footnote111"><sup>6</sup></a> The trade +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page377" id="page377"></a>[pg 377]</span> +in which they are engaged is very beneficial; and its being +undertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamtschatka, +was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of +that able navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the +source of much private advantage to individuals, and of +public utility to the Russian nation. And yet, if his distresses +had not accidentally carried him to die in the island +which bears his name, and from whence the miserable remnant +of his ship's crew brought back sufficient specimens of +its valuable furs, probably the Russians never would have +undertaken any future voyages, which could lead them to +make discoveries in this sea, toward the coast of America. +Indeed, after his time, government seems to have paid less +attention to this; and we owe what discoveries have been +since made, principally to the enterprising spirit of private +traders, encouraged, however, by the superintending care +of the court of Petersburg. The three Russians having +remained with me all night, visited Captain Clerke next +morning, and then left us, very well satisfied with the reception +they had met with, promising to return in a few +days, and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying +between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka.</p> + +<p>On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr Webber and I +were at a village at a small distance from Samganoodha, a +Russian landed there, who, I found, was the principal person +amongst his countrymen in this and the neighbouring +islands. His name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin Ismyloff. He +arrived in a canoe carrying three persons, attended by +twenty or thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. +I took notice, that the first thing they did after landing, +was to make a small tent for Ismyloff, of materials which +they brought with them, and then they made others for +themselves, of their canoes and paddles, which they covered +with grass; so that the people of the village were at no +trouble to find them lodging. Ismyloff having invited us into +his tent, set before us some dried salmon and berries, +which, I was satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared +to be a sensible intelligent man; and I felt no small +mortification in not being able to converse with him, unless +by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page378" id="page378"></a>[pg 378]</span> +however were a very great help. I desired to see him on +board the next day; and accordingly he came, with all his +attendants. Indeed, he had moved into our neighbourhood, +for the express purpose of waiting upon us.</p> + +<p>I was in hopes to have had by him, the chart which his +three countrymen had promised, but I was disappointed. +However, he assured me I should have it; and he kept his +word. I found that he was very well acquainted with the +geography of these parts, and with all the discoveries that +had been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the +modern maps, he at once pointed out their errors. He told +me, he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd as he +called him, in his expedition to the north; and, according +to his account, they did not proceed farther than the Tschukotskoi +Noss, or rather than the bay of St Laurence, for he +pointed on our chart to the very place where I landed. +From thence, he said, they went to an island in latitude 63°, +upon which they did not land, nor could he tell me its +name. But I should guess it to be the same to which I gave +the name of Clerke's Island. To what place Synd went after +that, or in what manner he spent the two years, during +which, as Ismyloff said, his researches lasted, he either +could not or would not inform us. Perhaps he did not comprehend +our enquiries about this; and yet, in almost every +other thing, we could make him understand us. This created +a suspicion, that he had not really been in that expedition, +notwithstanding his assertion.</p> + +<p>Both Ismyloff and the others affirmed, that they knew +nothing of the continent of America to the northward; and +that neither Lieutenant Synd, nor any other Russian, had +ever seen it. They call it by the same name which Mr +Stæhlin gives to his great island, that is Alaschka. Stachtan +Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a name +quite unknown to these people, natives of the islands as well +as Russians; but both, of them know it by the name of +America. From what we could gather from Ismyloff and +his countrymen, the Russians have made several attempts +to get a footing upon that part of this continent that lies +contiguous to Oonalashka and the adjoining islands, but +have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they describe +as a very treacherous people. They mentioned two +or three captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page379" id="page379"></a>[pg 379]</span> +them; and some of the Russians shewed us wounds which, +they said, they had received there.</p> + +<p>Some other information which we got from Ismyloff is +worth recording, whether true or false. He told us, that in +the year 1773, an expedition had been made into the Frozen +Sea in sledges, over the ice, to three large islands that +lie opposite the mouth of the river Kovyma. We were in +some doubt, whether he did not mean the same expedition +of which Muller gives an account; and yet he wrote down +the year, and marked the islands on the chart.<a id="footnotetag112" name="footnotetag112"></a><a href="#footnote112"><sup>7</sup></a> But a voyage +which he himself had performed, engaged our attention +more than any other. He said, that on the 12th of +May, 1771, he sailed from Bolscheretzk, in a Russian vessel, +to one of the Kuril islands, named Mareekan, in the latitude +of 47°, where there is a harbour, and a Russian settlement. +From this island, he proceeded to Japan, where +be seems to have made but a short stay. For when the Japanese +came to know that he and his companions were +Christians, they made signs for them to be gone; but did +not, so far as we could understand him, offer any insult or +force. From Japan, he got to Canton, and from thence to +France, in a French ship. From France, he travelled to +Petersburgh, and was afterward sent out again to Kamtschatka. +What became of the vessel in which he first embarked, +we could not learn, nor what was the principal object +of the voyage. His not being able to speak one word +of French, made this story a little suspicious. He did not +even know the name of any one of the most common things +that must have been in use every day, while he was on +board the ship, and in France. And yet he seemed clear as +to the times of his arriving at the different places, and of +his leaving them, which he put down in writing.<a id="footnotetag113" name="footnotetag113"></a><a href="#footnote113"><sup>8</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page380" id="page380"></a>[pg 380]</span> + +<p>The next morning, he would fain have made me a present +of a sea-otter skin, which, he said, was worth eighty +rubles at Kamtschatka. However, I thought proper to decline +it; but I accepted of some dried fish, and several baskets +of the lily, or <i>saranne</i> root, which is described at large +in the History of Kamtschatka.<a id="footnotetag114" name="footnotetag114"></a><a href="#footnote114"><sup>9</sup></a> In the afternoon, Mr Ismyloff, +after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his +retinue, promising to return in a few days. Accordingly, on +the 19th, he made us another visit, and brought with him +the charts before-mentioned, which he allowed me to copy, +and the contents of which furnish matter for the following +observations:—</p> + +<p>There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing +every mark of authenticity. The first comprehended the +<i>Penschinskian Sea</i>, the coast of Tartary, as low as the latitude +of 41°, the Kuril islands, and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. +Since this map had been made, Wawseelee Irkecchoff, +captain of the fleet, explored, in 1758, the coast +of Tartary, from Okotsk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or +41° of latitude. Mr Ismyloff also informed us, that great +part of the sea-coast of the peninsula of Kamtschatka had +been corrected by himself, and described the instrument he +made use of, which must have been a <i>theodolite</i>. He also +informed us, that there were only two harbours fit for shipping, +on all the east coast of Kamtschatka, viz. the bay of +<i>Awatska</i>, and the river <i>Olutora</i>, in the bottom of the gulf +of the same name, that there was not a single harbour upon +its west coast, and that <i>Yamsk</i> was the only one on all +the west side of the Penschinskian Sea, except Okotsk, till +we come to the river Amur. The Kuril islands afford only +one harbour, and that is on the N.E. side of Mareekan, in +the latitude of 47-1/2°, where, as I have before observed, the +Russians have a settlement.</p> + +<p>The second chart was to me the most interesting; for it +comprehended all the discoveries made by the Russians to +the eastward of Kamtschatka, toward America, which, if +we exclude the voyage of Beering and Tscherikoff, will +amount to little or nothing. The part of the American +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page381" id="page381"></a>[pg 381]</span> +coast, with which the latter fell in, is marked in this chart, +between the latitude of 58° and 58-1/2°, and 75° of longitude +from Okotsk, or, 218-1/2° from Greenwich; and the place +where the former anchored, in 59-1/2° of latitude, and 63-1/2° of +longitude from Okotsk, or 207° from Greenwich. To say +nothing of the longitude, which may be erroneous from +many causes, the latitude of the coast, discovered by these +two navigators, especially the part of it discovered by Tscherikoff, +differs considerably from the account published by +Mr Muller, and his chart. Indeed, whether Muller's chart, +or this now produced by Mr Ismyloff, be most erroneous in +this respect, it may be hard to determine, though it is not +now a point worth discussing. But the islands that lie dispersed +between 52° and 55° of latitude, in the space between +Kamtschatka and America, deserve some notice. According +to Mr Ismyloff's account, neither the number nor +the situation of these islands is well ascertained. He struck +out about one-third of them, assuring me they had no existence, +and he altered the situation of others considerably, +which, he said, was necessary, from his own observations. +And there was no reason to doubt about this. As these +islands lie all nearly under the same parallel, different navigators, +being misled by their different reckonings, might +easily mistake one island, or group of islands, for another, +and fancy they had made a new discovery, when they had +only found old ones in a different position from that assigned +to them by their former visitors.</p> + +<p>The islands of St Macarius, St Stephen, St Theodore, St +Abraham, Seduction Island, and some others, which are to +be found in Mr Muller's chart, had no place in this now +produced to us; nay, both Mr Ismyloff, and the others, assured +me, that they had been several times sought for in +vain. And yet it is difficult to believe how Mr Muller, +from whom subsequent map-makers have adopted them, +could place them in this chart without some authority. Relying, +however, on the testimony of these people, whom I +thought competent witnesses, I have left them out of my +chart, and made such corrections amongst the other islands +as I was told was necessary. I found there was wanting another +correction; for the difference of longitude, between +the Bay of Awatska, and the harbour of Samganoodha, according +to astronomical observations, made at these two +places, is greater by five degrees and a half, than it is by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page382" id="page382"></a>[pg 382]</span> +the chart. This error I have supposed to be infused throughout +the whole, though it may not be so in reality. There +was also an error in the latitude of some places, but this +hardly exceeded a quarter of a degree.</p> + +<p>I shall now give some account of the islands, beginning +with those that lie nearest to Kamtschatka, and reckoning +the longitude from the harbour of Petropaulowska, in the +Bay of Awatska. The first is <i>Beering's Island</i>, in 55° of latitude, +and 6° of longitude. Ten leagues from the south +end of this, in the direction of E. by S., or E.S.E., lies <i>Meidenoi +Ostroff</i>, or the Copper Island. The next island is <i>Atakou</i>, +laid down in 52° 45' of latitude, and in 15° or 16° of +longitude. This island is about eighteen leagues in extent, +in the direction of E. and W., and seems to be the same +land which Beering fell in with, and named <i>Mount St John</i>. +But there are no islands about it, except two inconsiderable +ones, lying three or four leagues from the east end, in the +direction of E.N.E.</p> + +<p>We next come to a group, consisting of six or more +islands, two of which, <i>Atghka</i> and <i>Amluk</i> are tolerably large, +and in each of them is a good harbour. The middle of this +group lies in the latitude of 52° 30', and 28° of longitude +from Awatska, and its extent, E. and W., is four degrees. +These are the isles that Mr Ismyloff said were to be removed +four degrees to the E., which was done. And in the +situation they have in my chart, was a group, consisting of +ten small islands, which, I was told, were wholly to be +struck out, and also two islands lying between them and +the group to which Oonalashka belongs. In the place of +these two, an island called Amoghta (which in the chart was +situated in the latitude of 51° 45', and 4° of longitude to the +W.) was brought.</p> + +<p>Nothing more need be said to shew how erroneous the +situation of many of these islands may be, and for which +I am in nowise accountable. But the position of the largest +group, of which Oonalashka is one of the principal +islands, and the only one in which there is a harbour, is not +liable to any such errors. Most of these islands were seen +by us, and consequently their latitude and longitude were +pretty exactly determined, particularly the harbour of Samganoodha +in Oonalashka, which must be looked upon as a +fixed point. This group of islands maybe said to extend as +far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leagues from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page383" id="page383"></a>[pg 383]</span> +Oonalashka toward the E.N.E. Within these isles, a passage was +marked in Ismyloff's chart, communicating with Bristol Bay, +which converts about fifteen leagues of the coast, that I had +supposed to belong to the continent, into an island, distinguished +by the name of <i>Ooneemak</i>. This passage might +easily escape us, as we were informed, that it is very narrow, +shallow, and only to be navigated through with boats, +or very small vessels.<a id="footnotetag115" name="footnotetag115"></a><a href="#footnote115"><sup>10</sup></a></p> + +<p>It appeared by the chart, as well as by the testimony of +Ismyloff and the other Russians, that this is as far as their +countrymen have made any discoveries, or have extended +themselves, since Beering's time. They all said, that no +Russians had settled themselves so far to the east as the +place where the natives gave the note to Captain Clerke, +which Mr Ismyloff, to whom I delivered it, on perusing it, +said, had been written at Oomanak. It was, however, from +him that we got the name of <i>Kodiak</i>, the largest of Schumagin's +Islands; for it had no name upon the chart produced +by him.<a id="footnotetag116" name="footnotetag116"></a><a href="#footnote116"><sup>11</sup></a> The names of all the other islands were +taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by +him. He said, they were all such as the natives themselves +called their islands by; but, if so, some of the names seem +to have been strangely altered. It is worth observing, that +no names were put to the islands which Ismyloff told us +were to be struck out of the chart, and I considered this as +some confirmation that they have no existence.</p> + +<p>I have already observed, that the American continent is +here called by the Russians, as well as by the islanders, +Alaschka; which name, though it properly belong only to +the country adjoining to Oonemak, is used by them when +speaking of the American continent in general, which they +know perfectly well to be a great land.</p> + +<p>This is all the information I got from these people, relating +to the geography of this part of the world; and I have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page384" id="page384"></a>[pg 384]</span> +reason to believe that this was all the information they were +able to give. For they assured me, over and over again, +that they knew of no other islands, besides those which +were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had +ever seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, +except that which lies opposite the country of the +Tschutskis.</p> + +<p>If Mr Stæhlin was not grossly imposed upon, what could +induce him to publish a map so singularly erroneous, and +in which many of these islands are jumbled together in regular +confusion, without the least regard to truth; and +yet he is pleased to call it <i>a very accurate little map</i>.<a id="footnotetag117" name="footnotetag117"></a><a href="#footnote117"><sup>12</sup></a> Indeed, +it is a map to which the most illiterate of his illiterate +sea-faring countrymen would have been ashamed to set his +name.</p> + +<p>Mr Ismyloff remained with us till the 21st, in the evening, +when he took his final leave. To his care I intrusted a +letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which +was inclosed a chart of all the northern coasts I had visited. +He said there would be an opportunity of sending it to +Kamtschatka, or Okotsk, the ensuing spring, and that it +would be at Petersburg the following winter. He gave me +a letter to Major Behm, governor of Kamtschatka, who resides +at Bolscheretsk, and another to the commanding officer, +at Petropaulowska. Mr Ismyloff seemed to have abilities +that might entitle him to a higher station in life, than +that in which we found him. He was tolerably well versed +in astronomy, and in the most useful branches of the mathematics. +I made him a present of an Hadley's octant; +and though, probably, it was the first he had ever seen, he +made himself acquainted, in a very short time, with most of +the uses to which that instrument can be applied.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get to +sea, with the wind at S.E., which miscarried. The following +afternoon, we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch +Soposnicoff, a Russian, who commanded a boat, or small +vessel, at Oomanak. This man had a great share of modesty, +and would drink no strong liquor, of which the rest +of his countrymen, whom we had met with here, were immoderately +fond. He seemed to know more accurately +what supplies could be got at the harbour of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page385" id="page385"></a>[pg 385]</span> +Petropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, than Mr Ismyloff. +But, by all accounts, every thing we should want at +that place was very scarce, and bore a high price. Flour, +for instance, was from three to five roubles the pood,<a id="footnotetag118" name="footnotetag118"></a><a href="#footnote118"><sup>13</sup></a> and +deer from three to five roubles each. This man told us that +he was to be at Petropaulowska in May next, and, as I understood, +was to have the charge of my letter. He seemed +to be exceedingly desirous of having some token from me +to carry to Major Behm, and to gratify him, I sent a small +spying-glass.</p> + +<p>After we became acquainted with these Russians, some +of our gentlemen, at different times, visited their settlement +on the island, where they always met with a hearty welcome. +This settlement consisted of a dwelling-house and +two store-houses. And, besides the Russians, there was a +number of the Kamtschadales, and of the natives, as servants, +or slaves, to the former. Some others of the natives, +who seemed independent of the Russians, lived at the same +place. Such of them as belonged to the Russians were all +males, and they are taken, or perhaps purchased, from their +parents when young. There was, at this time, about twenty +of these, who could be looked upon in no other light than, +as children. They all live in the same house; the Russians +at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and +the natives at the lower end, where is fixed a large boiler +for preparing their food, which consists chiefly of what the +sea produces, with the addition of wild roots and berries. +There is little difference between the first and last table, besides +what is produced by cookery, in which the Russians +have the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have +eat whale's flesh of their dressing, which I thought very +good; and they made a kind of pan-pudding of salmon roe, +beaten up fine, and fried, that is no bad <i>succedaneum</i> for +bread. They may, now and then, taste real bread, or have +a dish in which flour is an ingredient; but this can only be +an occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries +which they sip at their meals, they have no other liquor besides +pure water; and it seems to be very happy for them +that they have nothing stronger.</p> + +<p>As the island supplies them with food, so it does, in a +great measure, with clothing. This consists chiefly of skins, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page386" id="page386"></a>[pg 386]</span> +and is, perhaps, the best they could have. The upper garment +is made like our waggoner's frock, and reaches as low +as the knee. Besides this, they wear a waistcoat or two, a +pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pair of boots, the soles +and upper leathers of which are of Russian leather, but the +legs are made of some kind of strong gut. Their two +chiefs, Ismyoff and Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock, +and they, as well as some others, had shirts, which were of +silk. These, perhaps, were the only part of their dress not +made amongst themselves.</p> + +<p>There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands +between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka, for the sole purpose +of collecting furs. Their great object is the sea-beaver or +otter. I never heard them enquire after any other animal; +though those, whose skins are of inferior value, are also +made part of their cargoes. I never thought to ask how +long they have had a settlement upon Oonalashka, and the +neighbouring isles; but to judge from the great subjection +the natives are under, this cannot be of a very late date.<a id="footnotetag119" name="footnotetag119"></a><a href="#footnote14"><sup>119</sup></a> +All these furriers are relieved, from time to time, by others. +Those we met with arrived here from Okotsk, in 1776, and +are to return in 1781; so that their stay at the island will +be four years at least.<a id="footnotetag120" name="footnotetag120"></a><a href="#footnote120"><sup>15</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page387" id="page387"></a>[pg 387]</span> + +<p>It is now time to give some account of the native inhabitants. +To all appearance, they are the most peaceable, +inoffensive people, I ever met with. And, as to honesty, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page388" id="page388"></a>[pg 388]</span> +they might serve as a pattern to the most civilized nation +upon earth. But, from what I saw of their neighbours, with +whom the Russians have no connection, I doubt whether +this was their original disposition, and rather think that it +has been the consequence of their present state of subjection. +Indeed, if some of our gentlemen did not misunderstand +the Russians, they had been obliged to make some +severe examples, before they could bring the islanders into +any order. If there were severities inflicted at first, the +best apology for them is, that they have produced the happiest +consequences, and, at present, the greatest harmony +subsists between the two nations. The natives have their +own chiefs in each island, and seem to enjoy liberty and +property unmolested. But whether or no they are tributaries +to the Russians, we could never find out. There was +some reason to think that they are.<a id="footnotetag121" name="footnotetag121"></a><a href="#footnote121"><sup>16</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page389" id="page389"></a>[pg 389]</span> + +<p>These people are rather low of stature, but plump and +well-shaped, with rather short necks, swarthy chubby faces, +black eyes, small beards, and long, straight, black hair, +which the men wear loose behind and cut before, but the +women tie up in a bunch.</p> + +<p>Their dress has been occasionally mentioned. Both sexes +wear the same in fashion, the only difference is in the materials. +The women's frock is made of seal-skin, and that +of the men, of the skins of birds, both reaching below the +knee. This is the whole dress of the women. But over their +frock, the men wear another made of gut, which resists water, +and has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some +of them wear boots, and all of them have a kind of oval +snouted cap, made of wood, with a rim to admit the head. +These caps are dyed with green and other colours; and +round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long bristles +of some sea-animal, on which are strung glass-beads, and +on the front is a small image or two made of bone.</p> + +<p>They make use of no paint; but the women puncture +their faces slightly; and both men and women bore the +under-lip, to which they fix pieces of bone. But it is as +uncommon, at Oonalashka, to see a man with this ornament, +as to see a woman without it. Some fix beads to +the upper-lip, under the nostrils; and all of them hang ornaments +in their ears.</p> + +<p>Their food consists of fish, sea-animals, birds, roots, and +berries, and even of sea-weed. They dry large quantities +of fish in summer, which they lay up in small huts for winter +use; and probably they preserve roots and berries for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page390" id="page390"></a>[pg 390]</span> +the same time of scarcity. They eat almost every thing +raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery +that I saw them make use of; and the first was probably +learnt from the Russians. Some have got little brass-kettles; +and those who have not, make one of a flat stone, +with sides of clay, not unlike a standing pye.</p> + +<p>I was once present, when the chief of Oonalashka made +his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, just caught. +Before any was given to the chief, two of his servants eat +the gills, without any other dressing, besides squeezing out +the slime. This done, one of them cut off the head of the +fish, took it to the sea and washed it, then came with it, +and sat down by the chief, first pulling up some grass, upon +a part of which the head was laid, and the rest was +strewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces of the +cheeks, and laid these within the reach of the great man, +who swallowed them with as much satisfaction as we should +do raw oysters. When he had done, the remains of the +head were cut in pieces, and given to the attendants, who +tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones +like so many dogs.</p> + +<p>As these people use no paint, they are not so dirty in +their persons as the savages who thus besmear themselves; +but they are full as lousy and filthy in their houses. Their +method of building is as follows: They dig in the ground +an oblong square pit, the length of which seldom exceeds +fifty feet, and the breadth twenty; but in general the dimensions +are smaller. Over this excavation they form the +roof of wood which the sea throws ashore. This roof is +covered first with grass, and then with earth, so that the +outward appearance is like a dunghill. In the middle of +the roof, toward each end, is left a square opening, by +which the light is admitted; one of these openings being +for this purpose only, and the other being also used to go +in and out by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a post, +with steps cut in it.<a id="footnotetag122" name="footnotetag122"></a><a href="#footnote122"><sup>17</sup></a> In some houses there is another entrance +below; but this is not common. Round the sides +and ends of the huts, the families, (for several are lodged +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page391" id="page391"></a>[pg 391]</span> +together) have their separate apartments, where they sleep, +and sit at work, not upon benches, but in a kind of concave +trench, which is dug all round the inside of the house, and +covered with mats; so that this part is kept tolerably decent. +But the middle of the house, which is common to +all the families, is far otherwise. For, although it be covered +with dry grass, it is a receptacle for dirt of every +kind, and the place for the urine trough; the stench of +which is not mended by raw hides, or leather being almost +continually steeped in it. Behind and over the trench, are +placed the few effects they are possessed of, such as their +cloathing, mats, and skins.</p> + +<p>Their household furniture consists of bowls, spoons, +buckets, piggins or cans, matted-baskets, and perhaps a +Russian kettle or pot. All these utensils are very neatly +made, and well formed; and yet we saw no other tools +among them but the knife and the hatchet, that is, a small +flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a +crooked wooden handle. These were the only instruments +we met with there made of iron. For although the Russians +live amongst them, we found much less of this metal +in their possession, than we had met with in the possession +of other tribes on the American continent, who had never +seen, nor perhaps had any intercourse with, the Russians. +Probably a few beads, a little tobacco, and snuff, purchase +all they have to spare. There are few, if any of them, that +do not both smoke and chew tobacco, and take snuff; a +luxury that bids fair to keep them always poor.</p> + +<p>They did not seem to wish for more iron, or to want any +other instruments, except sewing-needles, their own being +made of bone. With these they not only sew their canoes, +and make their clothes, but also very curious embroidery. +Instead of thread they use the fibres of sinews, which they +split to the thickness which each sort of work requires. All +sewing is performed by the women. They are the tailors, +shoe-makers, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers; for the +men, most probably, construct the frame of wood over +which the skins are sewed. They make mats and baskets +of grass, that are both beautiful and strong. Indeed, there +is a neatness and perfection in most of their work, that +shews they neither want ingenuity nor perseverance.</p> + +<p>I saw not a fire-place in any one of their houses; they are +lighted as well as heated, by lamps, which are simple, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page392" id="page392"></a>[pg 392]</span> +yet answer the purpose very well. They are made of a flat +stone, hollowed on one side like a plate, and about the +same size, or rather larger. In the hollow part they put +the oil, mixed with a little dry grass, which serves the purpose +of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm +their bodies over one of these lamps, by placing it between +their legs, under their garments, and sitting thus over it for +a few minutes.</p> + +<p>They produce fire both by collision and by attrition; the +former by striking two stones one against another, on one +of which a good deal of brimstone is first rubbed. The latter +method is with two pieces of wood; one of which is a +stick of about eighteen inches in length, and the other a +flat piece. The pointed end of the slick they press upon +the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing +fire in a few minutes. This method is common in +many parts of the world. It is practised by the Kamtschadales, +by these people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, +by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probably +by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious +men have founded an argument on this custom to +prove, that this and that nation are of the same extraction. +But accidental agreements, in a few particular instances, +will not authorise such a conclusion; nor will a disagreement, +either in manners or customs, between two different +nations, of course, prove that they are of different extraction. +I could support this opinion by many instances besides +the one just mentioned.<a id="footnotetag123" name="footnotetag123"></a><a href="#footnote123"><sup>18</sup></a></p> + +<p>No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon +was seen amongst the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot +suppose that the Russians found them in such a defenceless +state; it is more probable that, for their own security, they +have disarmed them. Political reasons too may have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page393" id="page393"></a>[pg 393]</span> +induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have any +large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none +such originally, as we found them amongst all their neighbours. +However, we saw none here but one or two belonging +to the Russians. The canoes made use of by the +natives are the smallest we had any where seen upon the +American coast, though built after the same manner, with +some little difference in the construction. The stern of +these terminates a little abruptly; the head is forked, the +upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, +which is even with the surface of the water. Why they +should thus construct them is difficult to conceive; for the +fork is apt to catch hold of every thing that comes in the +way; to prevent which, they fix a piece of small stick +from point to point. In other respects, their canoes are +built after the manner of those used by the Greenlanders +and Esquimaux; the framing being of slender laths, and +the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, +a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or fourteen +inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two +persons; one of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, +and the other sits in the seat, or round hole, which is +nearly in the middle. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of +wood, about which is sewed gut-skin, that can be drawn +together, or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted +to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, +draws the skin tight round his body over his gut-frock, +and brings the ends of the thongs or purse-string, over the +shoulder to keep it in its place. The sleeves of his frock +are tied tight round his wrists, and it being close round his +neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is confined +by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his +body, or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate +itself, the boatman carries a piece of spunge, with which +he dries it up. He uses the double-bladed paddle, which +is held with both hands in the middle, striking the water +with a quick regular motion, first on one side and then on +the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a great +rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn. +In sailing from Egoochshak to Samganoodha, two or three +canoes kept way with the ship, though she was going at the +rate of seven miles an hour.</p> + +<p>Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page394" id="page394"></a>[pg 394]</span> +canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all +made, in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ +very little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they +are described by Crantz. The only difference is in the +point of the missile dart, which, in some we saw here, is +not above an inch long; whereas Crantz says, that those +of the Greenlanders are a foot and a half in length. Indeed, +these darts, as well as some others of their instruments, +are so curious, that they deserve a particular description; +but, as many of them were brought away on +board the ships, this can be done at any time, if thought +necessary. These people are very expert in striking fish, +both in the sea, and in rivers. They also make use of +hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are composed +of bone, and the lines of sinews.</p> + +<p>The fishes which are common to other northern seas, are +found here; such as whales, grampusses, porpoises, swordfish, +halibut, cod, salmon, trout, seals, flat-fish; several +other sorts of small fish; and there may be many more +that we had no opportunity of seeing. Halibut and salmon +seem to be in the greatest plenty, and on them the +inhabitants of these isles subsist chiefly; at least, they were +the only sort of fish, except a few cod, which we observed +to be laid up for their winter store. To the north of 60°, +the sea is, in a manner, destitute of small fish of every +kind; but then whales are more numerous.</p> + +<p>Seals and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous +as in many other seas. Nor can this be thought +strange, since there is hardly any part of the coast, on either +continent, nor any of the islands lying between them, +that is not inhabited, and whose inhabitants hunt these +animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses are, indeed, +in prodigious numbers about the ice; and the sea-otter +is, I believe, no where found but in this sea. We +sometimes saw an animal, with a head like a seal's, that +blew after the manner of whales. It was larger than a +seal, and its colour was white, with some dark spots. Probably +this was the sea-cow, or <i>manati</i>.</p> + +<p>I think I may venture to assert, that sea and water fowls +are neither in such numbers, nor in such variety, as with us +in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. There are +some, however, here, that I do not remember to have seen +any where else; particularly the <i>alca monochroa</i> of Steller, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page395" id="page395"></a>[pg 395]</span> +before mentioned; and a black and white duck, which I +conceive to be different from the stone-duck described by +Krascheninicoff.<a id="footnotetag124" name="footnotetag124"></a><a href="#footnote124"><sup>19</sup></a> All the other birds seen by us are mentioned +by this author, except some that we met with near +the ice; and most, if not all, of these, are described by +Martin in his voyage to Greenland. It is a little extraordinary, +that penguins, which are common in many parts of +the world, should not be found in this sea. Albatrosses +too are so very scarce, that I cannot help thinking that this +is not their proper climate.</p> + +<p>The few land birds that we met with are the same with +those in Europe; but there may be many others which we +had no opportunity of knowing. A very beautiful bird +was shot in the woods at Norton Sound, which, I am told, +is sometimes found in England, and known by the name of +Chatterer. Our people met with other small birds there, +but in no great variety and abundance; such as the wood +pecker, the bullfinch, the yellow finch, and a small bird +called a tit-mouse.</p> + +<p>As our excursions and observations were confined wholly +to the sea-coast, it is not to be expected, that we could +know much of the animals or vegetables of the country. +Except musquitoes, there are few other insects; nor reptiles, +that I saw, but lizards. There are no deer upon +Oonalashka, or upon any other of the islands. Nor have +they any domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and +weasels were the only quadrupeds we saw; but they told +us, that they had hares also, and the <i>marmottas</i> mentioned +by Krascheninicoff.<a id="footnotetag125" name="footnotetag125"></a><a href="#footnote125"><sup>20</sup></a> Hence it is evident, that the sea +and rivers supply the greatest share of food to the inhabitants. +They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood +made use of for building, and other necessary purposes; +for not a stick grows upon any of the islands, nor upon the +adjacent coast of the continent.</p> + +<p>The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are, by various +means, conveyed from one part of the world to another, +even to islands in the midst of great oceans, and far +remote from any other land. How comes it to pass, that +there are no trees growing on this part of the continent of +America, nor any of the islands lying near it? They are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page396" id="page396"></a>[pg 396]</span> +certainly as well situated for receiving seeds, by all the various +ways I have heard of, as any of those coasts are that +abound in wood. May not nature have denied to some soil +the power of raising trees, without the assistance of art? +As to the drift-wood upon the shores of the islands, I have +no doubt that it comes from America. For although there +may be none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow +farther up the country, which torrents in the spring may +break loose, and bring down to the sea. And not a little +may be conveyed from the woody coasts, though they lie at +a greater distance.<a id="footnotetag126" name="footnotetag126"></a><a href="#footnote126"><sup>21</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page397" id="page397"></a>[pg 397]</span> + +<p>There are a greater variety of plants at Oonalashka, and +most of them were in flower the latter end of June. Several +of them are such as we find in Europe, and in other +parts of America, particularly in Newfoundland; and others +of them, which are also met with in Kamtschatka, are eat +by the natives both there and here. Of these, Krascheninicoff +has given us descriptions. The principal one is +the <i>saranne</i>, or lily root, which is about the size of a root +of garlic, round, made up of a number of small cloves, and +grains like groats. When boiled, it is somewhat like saloop; +the taste is not disagreeable, and we found means to +make some good dishes with it. It does not seem to be in +great plenty; for we got none but what Ismyloff gave us. +We must reckon amongst the food of the natives, some +other wild roots; the stalk of a plant resembling <i>angelica</i>, +and berries of several different sorts; such as bramble-berries, +cran-berries, hurtle-berries, heath-berries, a small +red berry, which, in Newfoundland, is called partridge-berry, +and another brown berry, unknown to us. This has +somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike it in every +other respect. It is very astringent, if eaten in any quantity. +Brandy might be distilled from it. Captain Clerke +attempted to preserve some; but they fermented, and became +as strong as if they had been steeped in spirits.</p> + +<p>There were a few other plants, which we found serviceable, +but are not made use of by either Russians or natives. +Such as wild purslain, pea-tops, a kind of scurvy-grass, +cresses, and some others. All these we found very palatable, +dressed either in soups or in sallads. On the low +ground, and in the vallies, is plenty of grass, which grows +very thick, and to a great length. I am of opinion, that +cattle might subsist at Oonalashka all the year round, without +being housed. And the soil, in many places, seemed +capable of producing grain, roots, and vegetables. But, +at present, the Russian traders, and the natives, seem satisfied +with what nature brings forth.</p> + +<p>Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the +island; but I had no opportunity of learning where they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page398" id="page398"></a>[pg 398]</span> +got it. We found also ochre, a stone that gives a purple +colour, and another that gives a very good green. It may +be doubted, whether this last is known. In its natural +state, it is of a greyish green colour, coarse and heavy. It +easily dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely +loses its properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka; +but we were told, that it was in greater plenty on the island +Oonemak. As to the stones about the shore and hills, I +saw nothing in them that was uncommon.<a id="footnotetag127" name="footnotetag127"></a><a href="#footnote127"><sup>22</sup></a></p> + +<p>The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits +of hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In +a walk into the country, one of the natives, who attended +me, pointed out several of these receptacles of the dead. +There was one of them, by the side of the road leading +from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a +heap of stones. It was observed, that every one who passed +it, added one to it. I saw in the country several stone-hillocks, +that seemed to have been raised by art. Many +of them were apparently of great antiquity.</p> + +<p>What their notions are of the Deity, and of a future +state, I know not. I am equally unacquainted with their +diversions; nothing having been seen that could give us an +insight into either.</p> + +<p>They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each +other, and always behaved with great civility to us. The +Russians told us, that they never had any connections with +their women, because they were not Christians. Our people +were not so scrupulous; and some of them had reason +to repent that the females of Oonalashka encouraged their +addresses without any reserve; for their health suffered by +a distemper that is not unknown here. The natives of this +island are also subject to the cancer, or a complaint like it, +which those whom it attacks are very careful to conceal. +They do not seem to be long-lived. I no where saw a person, +man or woman, whom I could suppose to be sixty +years of age; and but very few who appeared to be above +fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means +of shortening their days.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page399" id="page399"></a>[pg 399]</span> + +<p>I have frequently had occasion to mention, from the +time of our arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably +the natives, on this north-west side of America, +resemble the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, in various particulars +of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the like. +However, I was much less struck with this, than with the +affinity which we found subsisting between the dialects of +the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of Norton's +Sound and Oonalashka. This will appear from a table of +corresponding words which I put together.</p> + +<p>It must he observed, however, with regard to the words +which we collected on this side of America, that too much +stress is not to be laid upon their being accurately represented; +for, after Mr Anderson's death, we had few who +took much pains about such matters; and I have frequently +found, that the same words written down by two or more +persons, from the mouth of the same native, on being compared +together, differed not a little. But still, enough is +certain, to warrant this judgment, that there is great reason +to believe, that all these nations are of the same extraction; +and if so, there can be little doubt of there being +a northern communication of some sort, by sea, between +this west side of America and the east side, through +Baffin's Bay, which communication, however, may be effectually +shut up against ships by ice, and other impediments. +Such, at least, was my opinion at this time.<a id="footnotetag128" name="footnotetag128"></a><a href="#footnote128"><sup>23</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page400" id="page400"></a>[pg 400]</span> + +<p>I shall now quit these northern regions, with a few particulars +relative to the tides and currents upon the coast, +and an account of the astronomical observations made by +us in Samganoodha harbour.</p> + +<p>The tide is no where considerable but in the great river.<a id="footnotetag129" name="footnotetag129"></a><a href="#footnote129"><sup>24</sup></a></p> + +<p>The flood comes from the south or south-east, every +where following the direction of the coast to the north-westward. +Between Norton Sound and Cape Prince of +Wales, we found a current setting to the north-west, particularly +off the cape and within Sledge Island. But this +current extended only a little way from the coast, nor was +it either consistent or uniform. To the north of Cape +Prince of Wales, we found neither tide nor current, either +on the American or on the Asiatic coast, though several +times looked for. This gave rise to an opinion entertained +by some on board our ships, that the two coasts were connected, +either by land or by ice; which opinion received +some strength, by our never having any hollow waves from +the north, and by our seeing ice almost the whole way +across.</p> + +<p>The following are the results of the several observations +made ashore, during our stay in the harbour of Samganoodha.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page401" id="page401"></a>[pg 401]</span> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left">The latitude, by the mean of several observed meridian altitudes of the sun,</td><td align="left">53° 5' 0"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">By the mean of 20 sets</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td>of lunar observations,</td><td align="left">193 47 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">with the sun east of the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The longitude</td><td align="left">moon</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">By the mean of 14 sets,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> with the sun and stars</td><td align="left">193 11 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">west of the moon</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">————</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">The mean of these</td><td align="left">193 29 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">The longitude assumed</td><td align="left">193 30 0</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left">By the mean of equal altitudes of the sun, taken on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 21st,</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left"> the time-keeper was found to be losing on mean time 8", 8 each day; and, on</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left"> the last of these days, was too slow for mean time 13<sup>h</sup> 46<sup>m</sup> 43<sup>s</sup>, 98. Hence the</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left"> time-keeper must have been too slow on the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13<sup>h</sup></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="left"> 44<sup>m</sup> 26<sup>s</sup>, 62; and the longitude, by Greenwich rate, will be 13<sup>h</sup> 23<sup>m</sup> 53<sup>s</sup>, 8</td><td align="left">200 58 27</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">By King George's (or Nootka) Sound rate,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> 12<sup>h</sup> 56<sup>m</sup> 40<sup>s</sup>, 4</td><td align="left">194 10 6</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The 30th of June, the time-keeper, by the</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> same rate, gave</td><td align="left">193 12 0</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The error of the time-keeper, at that time, was</td><td align="left">0 18 0 W.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">At this time, its error was</td><td align="left">0 39 54 E.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">The error of the time-keeper, between our</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> leaving Samganoodha, and our return to</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> it again, was</td><td align="left">0 57 54</td></tr> +</table> + +<br /> + +<table summary="" align="center" cellspacing="5"> +<tr><td align="left">On the 12th of October, the variation</td><td align="left">A.M.</td><td align="left"> 20° 17' 2"</td><td align="left">Mean 19° 59'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">By the mean of three compasses,</td><td align="left">P.M. </td><td align="left">19 41' 27</td><td align="left"> 15" East.</td></tr> +</table> + +<table summary="" align="center" cellspacing="5"> +<tr><td align="left">Dip of the needle</td><td align="left">Unmarked end</td><td align="left">Dipping,</td><td align="left">68° 45'</td><td align="left">Face</td><td align="left">69° 30'</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Marked end</td><td align="left">face East</td><td align="left">69 55</td><td align="left">West</td><td align="left">69 17</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="6" align="left">Mean of the dip of the north end of the needle 62° 23' 30".</td></tr> +</table> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote106" name="footnote106"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag106"> (return) </a><p>Mr Arrowsmith has filled up the coast betwixt the two points now +mentioned, and supplied it also with rivers, according to the conjecture +of Captain Cook. But it is obvious, that this is not sufficient authority; +and therefore, unless better be given, Mr Coxe seems to have done more +correctly, in indicating the space by a dotted line, the usual mark of an +unexplored region.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote107" name="footnote107"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag107"> (return) </a><p>It is somewhat singular, that neither Arrowsmith nor Coxe mentions +Anderson's Island. The former, on additional authority, has marked but +one island in the position specified, under the name of Eivoogiena, or +Clerke's Island.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote108" name="footnote108"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag108"> (return) </a><p>Mr Arrowsmith, as in the case of the island mentioned in the last +note, has given the native name to this island, viz. Matwi, retaining also, +however, the name of Gore.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote109" name="footnote109"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag109"> (return) </a><p>We must be allowed to notice some particulars in the history of +this +remarkable enough man, well known, it is probable, to most readers, who +have been interested in the operations of the African Association, but, +perhaps, not immediately recognised in the humble situation of a corporal +of marines. Some years after this voyage, viz. in 1786, Lediard, by birth +an American, resolved on a pedestrian excursion across his native continent; +for which purpose, he, first of all, fixed on travelling to Siberia, +whence he expected to be able to obtain a passage to its north-west coast. +Sir Joseph Banks, and other gentlemen, favouring his project, subscribed +a sum of money, not much exceeding fifty pounds, to enable him to put +it into execution. He proceeded to Hamburgh; from thence to Copenhagen; +and, as the gulf of Bothnia was not frozen over, actually walked +round its shores by the way of Tornea, till he arrived at Petersburgh, in +the beginning of March 1787. Here he remained till May, when he obtained +permission to go with a convoy of military stores, intended for Captain +Billings, formerly his ship-mate in Cook's voyage, and now waiting for it +to commence his own examination of the American coast, &c. With this +convoy, Lediard, in the month of August, reached Irkutsk, in Siberia, at +which place, after having gone to Yakutsk, where he met with Billings, +he purposed to remain a part of the winter, till an opportunity occurred +of going to Ochotsk, from which his passage to America seemed very +practicable. So far, then, he had to congratulate himself on his success. +But his enterprise was speedily interrupted, and all his hopes frustrated, +by an order from the empress; in consequence of which he was arrested, +and, under the guard of an officer and two soldiers, hurried off in +a sledge for Moscow, without being suffered to carry with him either his +clothes, his money, or his papers. The reason of this extraordinary conduct +has not been explained in the communication made by Sir Joseph +Banks to the Biographia Britannica, from which we have collected these +particulars. We are told, however, that the disappointed adventurer was +successively conveyed from Moscow to Moialoff, in White Russia, and +Tolochin, in Poland; at which last place, he was informed, that the empress +had directed he should never enter her dominions again without her +express permission. During the whole of his route, since he had been +made a prisoner, he suffered extreme hardship from ill health, fatigue, +and mortification. At last he reached Konigsberg; and, to use his own +words, in a letter to his patron, after "a miserable journey, in a miserable +country, in a miserable season, in miserable health, and with a miserable +purse," arrived in England. The ardour of his mind, however, was still +entire; and he appeared as ready as ever to engage in any service, however +perilous, which promised to gratify his own curiosity, and was recommended +by men whose judgment he respected. Accordingly, almost +immediately on his return, it was proposed to him to undertake the first +speculative excursion which the society alluded to projected. On this occasion +it was, as is noticed by the ingenious Mr Forster, in his valuable +Essay on Decision of Character, that he surprised the official person, who +put the Question to him, "When he would be ready for his African +journey?" by instantly answering, "To-morrow!" It may be doubted, if +his +acquirements were altogether equally well suited to this undertaking, as +his undaunted spirit and enterprising disposition. These, indeed, promised +interest; and no one could hesitate to believe, that he would zealously +employ every faculty he possessed in accomplishing the objects committed +to him. It was appointed him to traverse the continent of Africa +from east to west, in the latitude of the river Niger. But this he never +accomplished; as, on his arrival at Cairo, he was seized with a bilious +disorder, +which terminated in his death. So much, it seemed but justice to +record in this place, of the person now employed by Captain Cook.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote110" name="footnote110"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag110"> (return) </a><p>See the little that is known of Synd's voyage, accompanied with a +chart, in Mr Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 300.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote111" name="footnote111"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag111"> (return) </a><p>This may be considered as a very decisive testimony to the truth of +the character given of him in Mr Coxe's publication. We are indebted to +the same work for ample evidence in proof of the following remarks +of +Captain Cook—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote112" name="footnote112"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag112"> (return) </a><p>The latest expedition of this kind, taken notice of by Mr Muller, +was +in 1724. But in justice to Mr Ismyloff, it may be proper to mention, +which is done on the authority of a MS. communicated by Mr Pennant, +and the substance of which has been published by Mr Coxe, that, so late +as 1768, the Governor of Siberia sent three young officers over the ice in +sledges to the islands opposite the mouth of the Kovyma. There seems +no reason for not supposing, that a subsequent expedition of this sort +might also be undertaken in 1773. Mr Coxe, p. 324, places the expedition +on sledges in 1764, but Mr Pennant's MS. may be depended upon.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote113" name="footnote113"></a><b>Footnote 8:</b><a href="#footnotetag113"> (return) </a><p>There is nothing at all unlikely in the voyage now spoken of. +According +to Captain Krusenstern, whose information is in all probability +quite unexceptionable, the Kuril islands and Jesso have been often +visited +by Russian merchants since 1741, when Spanberg and Walton reached +the coast of Japan; though without any positive advantage, he says, accruing +either to science or commerce from their visits.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote114" name="footnote114"></a><b>Footnote 9:</b><a href="#footnotetag114"> (return) </a><p>English translation, p. 83, 84.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote115" name="footnote115"></a><b>Footnote 10:</b><a href="#footnotetag115"> (return) </a><p>This passage is marked on all the modern maps, no doubt on the +somewhat scanty authority here given. With respect to most of the +islands now alluded to, the opinion entertained of their utter insignificance, +will account for and perhaps justify the sparing solicitude we have used to +ascertain their number and position. Some less suspicious data than are +to be met with in the accounts of early Russian voyages, would be requisite, +to induce much attention to a subject of even greater importance.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote116" name="footnote116"></a><b>Footnote 11:</b><a href="#footnotetag116"> (return) </a><p>A Russian ship had been at Kodiak in 1776, as appears from a MS. +obligingly communicated by Mr Pennant.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote117" name="footnote117"></a><b>Footnote 12:</b><a href="#footnotetag117"> (return) </a><p>Stæhlin's New Northern Archipelago, p. 15.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote118" name="footnote118"></a><b>Footnote 13:</b><a href="#footnotetag118"> (return) </a><p>36 lb.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote119" name="footnote119"></a><b>Footnote 14:</b><a href="#footnotetag119"> (return) </a><p>The Russians began to frequent Oonalashka in 1762. See <i>Coxe's +Russian Discoveries</i>, ch. viii. p. 80.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote120" name="footnote120"></a><b>Footnote 15:</b><a href="#footnotetag120"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook says nothing of the condition of these furriers, and +probably indeed knew nothing of it. According to Krusenstern, who cannot +be supposed to seek for occasion to censure his countrymen, it is +wretched in the extreme. He himself admits that his transcript, though +softened down from his original notes made at the time, will nevertheless +expose him to the anger of a number of persons for whom, in other respects, +he entertains the highest regard. But one may question if any of +the accounts that have been given of the African slave-trade produce +greater horror than this modified description occasions. The reader must +not imagine that the physical difficulties of the climate constitute the misery +of these deluded beings. These are certainly very formidable, and of +themselves present a sufficient barrier to the enjoyment of any thing bearing +the shape of comfort. But evils of another sort, arising from avarice +and the abuse of power, are so galling, as would induce a man "to fly +from even the most beautiful and the best-gifted country," if his residence +in it subjected him to their tyranny. The agents of the Russian-American +Company, as the reader will instantly divine, are chargeable with the enormous +barbarity and injustice to which these remarks apply; and the +fearless seaman does not scruple to expose them to public indignation, in +consequence. We shall communicate a few particulars, referring those +who desire more information on the subject to the work itself. The +persons +who engage in the Company's service, we are informed, are vagabonds +and adventurers,—but not criminals, be it remembered,—to whom the +fabulous reports of the state of affluence to be easily attained, which are +industriously circulated, operate as an incentive to sail to America in the +condition of Promiischleniks, a word originally signifying any who carry on +a trade, but here, as it is the only occupation, restricted to those who collect +furs. Their misery commences with their voyage, which is generally +performed in vessels so exceedingly crowded, that a large proportion of +the passengers are necessitated to sleep upon the deck, which, in such a +climate, it is obvious, must expose them to almost certain disease and +death. This last, indeed, is the most desirable destiny they can experience, +as those who have the misfortune to survive are subjected to almost +incalculable calamities from the want of proper food and clothing, under +the rigours of the climate, and the still more relentless severity of their +task-masters. From the treatment which the sick receive, we may perhaps, +with some exercise of imagination, infer, what the mode of life must be, +of those whom superior force of constitution preserves in health. Speaking +of a particular case which he had an opportunity of witnessing, Captain +K. says, "We went to visit the sick, and it is impossible for me to +describe the shocking, the disgusting state in which we found them; nearly +all appeared to labour under incurable scorbutic and venereal sores, although +they had been ten months on shore, and had enjoyed the assistance +of the surgeon of St Peter and St Paul. Even of this they were now about +to be deprived, and on the point of being removed, by a long and tedious +navigation, to places where they must either forego all surgical attendance, +or obtain it from people totally unskilled in the practice. I was curious +to learn on what food the sick were kept, and was shewn two casks +of salt meat destined for them. I requested to see a piece of it; but, on +opening the cask, so disgusting and pestilential a smell took possession of +the hold as compelled me instantly to quit it. Two tons of this stinking +salt meat, and some sacks of mouldy black biscuit, were the only nourishing +provisions on board for twenty invalids, for, to this number, (out of seventy,) +they actually amounted before the Maria (the vessel they were on +board) left St Peter and St Paul (for Kodiak)." Was not the practice said +to have been adopted at Jaffa by an extraordinary character, to be esteemed +for mercifulness in comparison of this? Train oil and the flesh of +the sea-lion, with a mixture of rye-meal and water, form the choicest provisions +of those who are well, either on board a ship or on shore; these, +it must be owned, are quite suitable to the iron rule of the agent, under +whom there can be neither personal property nor individual security, because +he is subject to no law, and there are no courts of justice in Kodiak, +or any other of the company's possessions. Few of these wretched outcasts +ever again reach Russian ground, very few indeed attain the object +of their wishes (we dare not say hopes) to return to Europe. Disease, +disappointment, +innumerable sufferings, continual drunkenness, the only solace +in which, for obvious reasons, they are indulged, bring them speedily +to the end of their unhappy existence, and leave a vacant stage for +the +miseries of new victims. Should a remnant have a more lengthened career, +and having, by infinite pain and trouble, amassed a little property, get back +to Ochotsk, thinking to return home and spend their days in comfort with +their relatives, they are beset by fresh and perhaps still more aggravated +vexations. They cannot leave that place, it seems, till they have closed +accounts with the agents, and, as this is frequently protracted, no doubt +with the most diabolical design, they become idle, spend what they had +acquired, run into debt, (for sufficient credit is allowed them), and at last +are necessitated to revert to their former slavery with perhaps far less ability +than formerly, and with no other expectation of relief than what is +afforded by the certainty of their dissolution. It is impossible to contemplate +this distressing picture a moment longer. Let us leave it.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote121" name="footnote121"></a><b>Footnote 16:</b><a href="#footnotetag121"> (return) </a><p>See the particulars of hostilities between the Russians and the +natives, +in Coxe, as cited above.—D.</p> + +<p>It will readily be inferred from what has already been mentioned of the +conduct of the Russian agents towards their own countrymen, that the +circumstance of the unfortunate islanders, who are also subjected to their +sway, cannot be very eligible. A single quotation from the work referred +to, will answer every purpose we can have in view in alluding to them in +this place. "The chief agent of the American Company is the boundless +despot over an extent of country, which, comprising the Aleutic islands, +stretches from 57 to 61 degrees of latitude, and from 130 to 190 degrees +of east longitude. The population of the islanders annually decreasing, and +the wretched condition of the Russians living there, sufficiently proves, +that, from their first migration to these islands and to the American coast, +up to the present moment, the Company's possessions have been entrusted +to people, who were, indeed, zealous for its own advantage, but frequently +more so for that of a few subordinate agents." A Lieutenant Davidoff, +he gives us to understand, had collected some very important notices +respecting these possessions of the Company, and had imparted to +him a fragment of them relative to the situation of the islanders +and their +conquerors. This however is not communicated, apparently for a reason +mentioned, viz. that this officer proposed publishing on the subject when +he returned to St Petersburg; and that though unfortunately he lost his +life in the Neva before that took place, his manuscript, which was in the +hands of Admiral Schischkoff, will be printed by the Admiralty. We shall +wonder if it be so, concluding as to its contents from what is already +made known. Though it is possible, indeed, to imagine, that it may be +made use of as a testimony against the bad management and inhuman conduct +of the agents of the Company, in order to justify the interference of +the legislature in their concerns, which certainly appears to be much wanted. +Altogether, it is obvious then, that the statement of matters which +Captain Cook has given in the text, applies to a golden age, in comparison +of what we are assured was lately existing in these regions. What changes +have been wrought by the representations of Krusenstern we have not +heard.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote122" name="footnote122"></a><b>Footnote 17:</b><a href="#footnotetag122"> (return) </a><p>Mr Coxe's description of the habitations of the natives of +Oonalashka, +and the other Fox Islands, in general, agrees with Captain Cook's. +See <i>Russian Discoveries</i>, p. 149. See also <i>Histoire des differents +Peuples +soumis à la Domination des Russes</i>, par M. Levesque, tom. i. p. 40, 41.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote123" name="footnote123"></a><b>Footnote 18:</b><a href="#footnotetag123"> (return) </a><p>We formerly hazarded some observations, on this subject, which may +properly claim regard, if the concurrent opinion of Cook be any commendation. +It is rare with him to venture on theoretic conjectures; but his +truly excellent remarks, so indicative of candid and unbiassed enquiry, +may justly serve as the basis of very extensive reasoning. His professional +career, in short, may be considered as a course of experimental investigations, +from which there results a system of philosophy of no ordinary interest +or importance. Can one help regretting, that he did not live, like +Newton, to deduce the legitimate consequences of his own discoveries? +But, alas! how rapidly are we now approaching to the last suggestions of +his sagacious mind!—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote124" name="footnote124"></a><b>Footnote 19:</b><a href="#footnotetag124"> (return) </a><p>History of Kamtschatka. Eng. Trans. p. 160.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote125" name="footnote125"></a><b>Footnote 20:</b><a href="#footnotetag125"> (return) </a><p>History of Kamtschatka, p. 99.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote126" name="footnote126"></a><b>Footnote 21:</b><a href="#footnotetag126"> (return) </a><p>More extensive observations than what Cook's time allowed him to +make, would be requisite to determine the questions which he has just +now started. Besides, it is fair to remark, that there is some reason for +demurring at one of the premises, with which he sets out, viz. that the +islands, he speaks of, are as well situate for receiving seeds, as any of the +coasts are that abound in wood. At least, before admitting it, we ought +to be assured of the equal vicinity of sources from which these seeds +might be received, the predominance or occasional alteration of currents +fit for their conveyance, &c. On the other hand, what is conjectured about +the variety of soils, is so obvious, as to need no pointing out. With respect +to the drift-wood, it may be right to state, by way of corroborating +a supposition hazarded by Cook, that there is reason to believe, that much +of the internal parts of North America, and even the declivities, though +not the summits of most of the high ranges of mountains traversing it, either +have been, or are, well covered with trees. Here, it is worth while to +allude to a very singular circumstance mentioned in the account of Lewis +and Clarke's Travels to the Source of the Missouri, &c. viz. that a great +number of the trunks of trees of the pine genus were found standing erect, +and with their roots fixed, but in a state of decay, in the bottom of the +Columbia river, on the west coast. It is difficult to explain this, but on +the supposition of some considerable change in the course of the river; +and it is sufficiently obvious, that such changes, which we know have often +occurred elsewhere, might soon occasion the removal of trees from +their original situation to any distance. We cannot spare time or room +to carry on the investigation of the subject; but no reader can be at a loss +to estimate the probable results of the fact now mentioned. To some +persons, however, it may be necessary to mention, that the Missouri itself +is a striking instance of both changeability of course, and a corresponding +operation in transporting trees, &c.; the latter circumstance being +apparently both the cause and the effect of the former. Thus we are +informed in the work already referred to, that at the place where the party +embarked on the last-mentioned river, its current, which was extremely +rapid, brought down great quantities of drift-wood, that its bottom was +full of logs of trees, and that the course of the water was frequently varying +from the effects of sand-bars, &c. of its own formation. For an obvious +reason, it is to be wished, that Cook had mentioned to what species +of trees the drift-wood he found had belonged. How rarely are even +intelligent persons quite aware of the importance of the facts which +are presented +to them; and how much has been lost, or which is, in fact, the +same thing, not gained to science, in consequence of the carelessness with +which they have been examined!—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote127" name="footnote127"></a><b>Footnote 22:</b><a href="#footnotetag127"> (return) </a><p>Very probably the stone that gave a green colour was an ore of +copper; +but the scanty description renders it difficult to ascertain the species. +The other, which is said to have given a purple colour, may also have contained +the same metal.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote128" name="footnote128"></a><b>Footnote 23:</b><a href="#footnotetag128"> (return) </a><p>This subject has been alluded to in the Introduction, and will in +all +probability receive consideration in the course of this Collection. It is +unnecessary, +therefore, to enter upon it in this place. We shall merely +mention a few particulars. The west coast of Greenland has not been explored +beyond 72° latitude. Little or nothing, that can be relied on, is +known concerning the sea of Davis or Baffin's Bay; the latter, indeed, being +generally considered as imaginary, and having no other evidence for +its existence, than the assertions, of a man conceived unworthy of credit. +The whole distance from the coast of that bay, as commonly laid down, to +the point where Hearne saw the sea, viz. in 69° latitude, being about sixty +degrees of longitude, is totally unknown. The same thing is to be said of +both the space betwixt the last mentioned spot, and that at which Mackenzie's +river is conceived to enter, which is denominated the Arctic Sea, +amounting to upwards of twenty degrees more, and also of about an equal +space betwixt this last position and Icy Cape, the highest point at which +Captain Cook arrived in this voyage. If any passage do exist, it is certain, +that it must be beyond 69° latitude, as high as which, it has been +indubitably proved by the labours of Cook, Mackenzie, and Hearne, +that +the continent of America is unbroken by any navigable passage from sea +to sea. Above that latitude, it is not only possible, but also even probable, +that the Arctic Sea, supposing it to be the same which Mackenzie and +Hearne saw, and that it is equally low down, or nearly so, throughout the +other spaces alluded to, may, in some peculiarly mild seasons, admit the +passage of canoes, if not of larger vessels. The circumstance of a much +higher latitude having been actually navigated in the Atlantic Ocean, +might seem to warrant such an opinion, and would, of course, justify some +renewed attempts in such an enterprise, were it not, that it has been proved +by the present voyage, that the ice extends lower down in the Pacific +Ocean, and that there is no small reason to believe, that Greenland forms +an integral part of the American continent. Still, however, in every view +of the subject, there does appear encouragement to make some experiments +of the nature of Hearne's and Mackenzie's, particularly towards +the east of the track explored by the former; and it is even extremely +probable, that some marine co-operation in the direction of both Hudson's +Bay and Davis' Strait, would facilitate and secure some discovery of more +utility, than a mere improvement of our maps. But it is improper to disburden +imagination on such a subject in this place.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote129" name="footnote129"></a><b>Footnote 24:</b><a href="#footnotetag129"> (return) </a><p>Cook's River.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page402" id="page402"></a>[pg 402]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION XII.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views,—The Island +Amoghta.—Situation of a remarkable Rock.—The Strait +between Oonalashka and Oonella repassed.—Progress to the +South.—Melancholy Accident on board the Discovery.—Mowee, +one of the Sandwich Islands, discovered.—Intercourse +with the Natives.—Visit from Terreeoboo.—Another +Island, called Owhyhee, discovered.—The Ships ply to windward +to get round it.—An Eclipse of the Moon observed.—The +Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane Beer.—Cordage deficient +in Strength.—Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee.—The +Resolution gets to Windward of the Island.—Her +Progress down the South-East Coast.—Views of the +Country, and Visits from the Natives.—The Discovery joins.—Slow +Progress Westward.—Karakakooa Bay examined +by Mr Bligh.—Vast Concourse of the Natives.—The Ships +anchor in the Bay.</i></blockquote> + +<p>In the morning of Monday the 26th, we put to sea from +Samganoodha harbour; and, as the wind was southerly, +stood away to the westward.</p> + +<p>My intention was now to proceed to Sandwich Islands, +there to spend a few of the winter months, in case we +should meet with the necessary refreshments, and then to +direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to be +there by the middle of May, the ensuing summer. In consequence +of this resolution, I gave Captain Clerke orders +how to proceed, in case of separation; appointing Sandwich +Islands for the first place of rendezvous, and the harbour +of Petropaulowska, in Kamtschatka, for the second.</p> + +<p>Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered +to the S.E. and E.S.E., which, by the evening, carried us +as far as the western part of Oonalashka, where we got the +wind at S. With this we stretched to the westward, till +seven o'clock the next morning, when we wore, and stood +to the E. The wind, by this time, had increased in such +a manner as to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in +very heavy squalls, attended with rain, hail, and snow.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the island +of Oonalashka bore S.E., four leagues distant. We then +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page403" id="page403"></a>[pg 403]</span> +wore and stood to the westward. The strength of the gale +was now over, and toward evening the little wind that blew +insensibly veered round to the E., where it continued but +a short time before it got to N.E., and increased to a very +hard gale with rain. I steered first to the southward, and +as the wind inclined to the N. and N.W., I steered more +westerly.</p> + +<p>On the 29th, at half past six in the morning, we saw +land extending from E. by S. to S. by W., supposed to be +the island Amoghta. At eight, finding that we could not +weather the island, as the wind had now veered, to the +westward, I gave over plying, and bore away for Oonalashka, +with a view of going to the northward and eastward +of that island, not daring to attempt a passage to the +S.E. of it, in so hard a gale of wind. At the time we bore +away, the land extended from E. by S. 1/2 S. to S.S.W., +four leagues distant. The longitude by the time-keeper +was 191° 17', and the latitude 53° 38'. This will give a +very different situation to this island from that assigned to +it upon the Russian map. But it must be remembered, +that this is one of the islands which Mr Ismyloff said was +wrong placed. Indeed, it is a doubt if this be Amoghta;<a id="footnotetag130" name="footnotetag130"></a><a href="#footnote130"><sup>1</sup></a> +for after Ismyloff had made the correction, no land appeared +upon the map in this latitude; but, as I have observed +before, we must not look for accuracy in this chart.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock, as we were steering to the N.E., we +discovered an elevated rock, like a tower, bearing N.N.E. +1/2 E., four leagues distant. It lies in the latitude of 53° 57', +and in the longitude of 191° 2', and hath no place in the +Russian map.<a id="footnotetag131" name="footnotetag131"></a><a href="#footnote131"><sup>2</sup></a> We must have passed very near it in the +night. We could judge of its steepness from this circumstance, +that the sea, which now run very high, broke no +where but against it. At three in the afternoon, after +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page404" id="page404"></a>[pg 404]</span> +getting a sight of Oonalashka, we shortened sail, and hauled +the wind, not having time to get through the passage before +night. At day-break the next morning, we bore away +under courses, and close-reefed top-sails, having a very +hard gale at W.N.W., with heavy squalls, attended with +snow. At noon, we were in the middle of the Strait, between +Oonalashka, and Oonella, the harbour of Samganoodha +bearing S.S.E., one league distant. At three in +the afternoon, being through the Strait, and clear of the +isles, Cape Providence bearing W.S.W., two or three +leagues distant, we steered to the southward, under double-reefed +top-sails and courses, with the wind at W.N.W., a +strong gale, and fair weather.</p> + +<p>On Monday, the 2d of November, the wind veered to +the southward; and, before night, blew a violent storm, +which obliged us to bring to. The Discovery fired several +guns, which we answered; but without knowing on what +occasion they were fired. At eight o'clock, we lost sight +of her, and did not see her again till eight the next morning. +At ten, she joined us; and, as the height of the gale +was now over, and the wind had veered back to W.N.W., +we made sail, and resumed our course to the southward.</p> + +<p>The 6th, in the evening, being in the latitude of 42° 12', +and in the longitude of 201° 26'", the variation was 17° 15' +E. The next morning, our latitude being 41° 20', and our +longitude 202°, a shag, or cormorant, flew several times +round the ship. As these birds are seldom, if ever, known +to fly far out of sight of land, I judged that some was not +far distant. However, we could see none. In the afternoon, +there being but little wind, Captain Clerke came on +board, and informed me of a melancholy accident that +happened on board his ship, the second night after we left +Samganoodha. The main tack gave way, killed one man, +and wounded the boatswain, and two or three more. In +addition to this misfortune, I now learned, that, on the +evening of the 2d, his sails and rigging received considerable +damage; and that the guns which he fired were the +signal to bring to.'</p> + +<p>On the 8th, the wind was at N.; a gentle breeze with +clear weather. On the 9th, in the latitude of 39-1/2°, we had +eight hours calm. This was succeeded by the wind from, +the S., attended with fair weather. Availing ourselves of +this, as many of our people as could handle a needle, were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page405" id="page405"></a>[pg 405]</span> +set to work to repair the sails; and the carpenters were +employed to put the boats in order.</p> + +<p>On the 12th at noon, being then in the latitude of 38° +14', and in the longitude of 206° 17', the wind returned +back to the northward; and, on the 15th, in the latitude +of 33° 30', it veered to the E. At this time, we saw a tropic-bird, +and a dolphin, the first that we had observed during +the passage. On the 17th, the wind veered to the +southward, where it continued till the afternoon of the +19th, when a squall of wind and rain brought it at once +round by the W. to the N. This was in the latitude of +32° 26', and in the longitude of 207° 30'.</p> + +<p>The wind presently increased to a very strong gale, attended +with rain, so as to bring us under double-reefed +top-sails. In lowering down the main top-sail to reef it, the +wind tore it quite out of the foot rope, and it was split in +several other parts. This sail had only been brought to the +yard the day before, after having had a repair. The next +morning we got another top-sail to the yard. This gale +proved to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which, in, +latitude 25°, veered to E. and E.S.E.</p> + +<p>I continued to steer to the southward till day-light in +the morning of the 25th, at which time we were in the latitude +of 20° 55'. I now spread the ships, and steered to +the W. In the evening we joined, and at midnight brought-to. +At day-break, next morning, land was seen extending +from S.S.E. to W. We made sail, and stood for it. At +eight, it extended from S.E. 1/2 S. to W., the nearest part +two leagues distant. It was supposed that we saw the extent +of the land to the east, but not to the west. We were +now satisfied, that the group of the Sandwich Islands had +been only imperfectly discovered; as those of them which +we had visited in our progress northward, all lie to the leeward +of our present station.</p> + +<p>In the country was an elevated saddle hill, whose summit +appeared above the clouds. From this hill, the land +fell in a gentle slope, and terminated in a steep rocky coast, +against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. Finding +that we could not weather the island, I bore up, and ranged +along the coast to the westward. It was not long before +we saw people on several parts of the shore, and some +houses and plantations. The country seemed to be both +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page406" id="page406"></a>[pg 406]</span> +well wooded and watered, and running streams were seen +falling into the sea in various places.</p> + +<p>As it was of the last importance to procure a supply of +provisions at these islands; and experience having taught +me that I could have no chance to succeed in this if a free +trade with the natives were to be allowed; that is, if it were +left to every man's discretion to trade for what he pleased, +and in the manner he pleased; for this substantial reason, +I now published an order, prohibiting all persons from +trading, except such as should be appointed by me and +Captain Clerke; and even these were enjoined to trade +only for provisions and refreshments. Women were also +forbidden to be admitted into the ships, except under certain +restrictions. But the evil I meant to prevent by this +regulation, I soon found, had already got amongst them.</p> + +<p>At noon, the coast extended from S., 81° E., to N. 56° +W.; a low flat, like an isthmus, bore S., 42° W.; the +nearest shore three or four miles distant; the latitude was +20° 59', and the longitude 203° 50'. Seeing some canoes +coming off to us, I brought-to. As soon as they got alongside, +many of the people, who conducted them, came into +the ship, without the least hesitation. We found them to +be of the same nation with the inhabitants of the islands +more to leeward, which we had already visited; and, if we +did not mistake them, they knew of our having been there. +Indeed, it rather appeared too evident; for these people +had got amongst them, the venereal distemper; and, as yet, +I knew of no other way of its reaching them but by an intercourse +with their neighbours since our leaving them.</p> + +<p>We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish for +nails and pieces of iron. They brought very little fruit and +roots; but told us that they had plenty or them on their +island, as also hogs and fowls. In the evening, the horizon +being clear to the westward, we judged the westernmost +land in sight to be an island, separated from that off which +we now were. Having no doubt that the people would return +to the ships next day, with the produce of their country, +I kept plying off all night, and in the morning stood +close in shore. At first, only a few of the natives visited +us; but, toward noon, we had the company of a good +many, who brought with them bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro, +or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs; all of which +they exchanged for nails and iron tools. Indeed, we had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page407" id="page407"></a>[pg 407]</span> +nothing else to give them. We continued trading with, +them till four o'clock in the afternoon, when, having disposed +of all their cargoes, and not seeming inclined to fetch +more, we made sail, and stood off shore.</p> + +<p>While we were lying-to, though the wind blew fresh, I +observed that the ships drifted to the east, consequently +there must have been a current setting in that direction. +This encouraged me to ply to windward, with a view to get +round the east end of the island, and so have the whole +lee-side before us. In the afternoon of the 30th, being off +the N.E. end of the island, several canoes came off to the +ships. Most of these belonged to a chief, named Terreeoboo, +who came in one of them. He made me a present of +two or three small pigs; and we got, by barter, from the +other people, a little fruit. After a stay of about two hours +they all left us, except six or eight of their company, who +chose to remain on board. A double-sailing canoe came +soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all +night. In the evening, we discovered another island to +windward, which the natives call <i>Owhyhee</i>. The name of +that, off which we had been for some days, we were also +told is <i>Mowee</i>.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, Owhyhee +extended from S., 22' E, to S. 12° W.; and Mowee +from N. 41° to N. 83° W. Finding that we could fetch +Owhyhee, I stood for it; and our visitors from Mowee not +choosing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe, and +went ashore. At seven in the evening, we were close up +with the north side of Owhyhee; where we spent the night, +standing off and on.</p> + +<p>In the morning of the 2d, we were surprised to see the +summits of the mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. +They did not appear to be of any extraordinary height; +and yet, in some places, the snow seemed to be of a considerable +depth, and to have lain there some time. As we +drew near the shore, some of the natives came off to us. +They were a little shy at first; but we soon enticed some +of them on board; and at last prevailed upon them to return +to the island, and bring off what we wanted. Soon +after they reached the shore, we had company enough; and +few coming empty-handed, we got a tolerable supply of +small pigs, fruit, and roots. We continued trading with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page408" id="page408"></a>[pg 408]</span> +them till six in the evening; when we made sail, and stood +off, with a view of plying to windward round the island.</p> + +<p>In the evening of the 4th, we observed an eclipse of the +moon. Mr King made use of a night-telescope, a circular +aperture being placed at the object end, about one-third of +the size of the common aperture. I observed with the telescope +of one of Ramsden's sextants; which, I think, answers +this purpose as well as any other. The following times +are the means, as observed by us both:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Longitude.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">6<sup>h</sup> 3' 25" beginning of the eclipse</td><td align="left">204° 40' 45"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">8 27 25 end of the eclipse</td><td align="left">204 25 15</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">___________</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mean</td><td align="left">204 35 0</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>The <i>penumbra</i> was visible at least ten minutes before the +beginning and after the end of the eclipse. I measured the +uneclipsed part of the moon with one of Ramsden's sextants, +several times before, at, and after the middle of the eclipse; +but did not get the middle so near as might have been effected +by this method. Indeed, these observations were made +only as an experiment, without aiming at much nicety. I +also measured mostly one way; whereas I ought to have +brought alternately the reflected and direct images on contrary +sides with respect to each other; reading the numbers +off the quadrant, in one case, to the left of the beginning +of the divisions; and, in the other case, to the right +hand of the same. It is evident, that half the sum of these +two numbers must be the true measurement, independent +of the error of the quadrant; and this is the method that +I would recommend.</p> + +<p>But I am well assured, that it might have been observed +much nearer; and that this method maybe useful when +neither the beginning nor end of an eclipse can be observed, +which may often happen.</p> + +<p>Immediately after the eclipse was over, we observed the +distance of each limb of the moon from <i>Pollux</i> and <i>α Arietis</i>; +the one being to the east, and the other to the west. +An opportunity to observe, under all these circumstances, +seldom happens; but when it does, it ought not to be +omitted; as, in this case, the local errors to which these +observations are liable, destroy each other; which, in all +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page409" id="page409"></a>[pg 409]</span> +other cases, would require the observations of a whole +moon. The following are the results of these observations:</p> + +<table summary="" align="center"> +<tr><td align="left">Myself with</td><td align="left"><i>α Arietis</i></td><td align="left">204° 22' 07"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">mean 204° 21' 5"</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Pollux</i></td><td align="left">204 20 4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mr King with</td><td align="left"><i>α Arietis</i></td><td align="left">204 27 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">mean 204 18 29</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"><i>Pollux</i></td><td align="left">204 9 12</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">_______________</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Mean of the two means</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">204 19 47</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">The time-keeper, at 4<sup>h</sup> 30', to which time all the</td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">204 04 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> lunar observations are reduced</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>The current which I have mentioned, as setting to the +eastward, had now ceased; for we gained but little by plying. +On the 6th, in the evening, being about five leagues +farther up the coast, and near the shore, we had some traffic +with the natives. But, as it had furnished only a trifling +supply, I stood in again next morning, when we had a considerable +number of visitors; and we lay-to, trading with +them, till two in the afternoon. By that time, we had procured +pork, fruit, and roots, sufficient for four or five days. +We then made sail, and continued to ply to windward.</p> + +<p>Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane; and having, +upon a trial, made but a few days before, found, that a +strong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, I ordered +some more to be brewed for our general use. But +when the cask was now broached, not one of my crew-would +even so much as taste it. As I had no motive in preparing +this beverage, but to save our spirit for a colder climate, +I gave myself no trouble, either by exerting authority, +or by having recourse to persuasion, to prevail upon +them to drink it; knowing that there was no danger of the +scurvy, so long as we could get a plentiful supply of other +vegetables. But, that I might not be disappointed in my +views, I gave orders that no grog should be served in either +ship. I myself, and the officers, continued to make use +of the sugar-cane beer whenever we could get materials for +brewing it. A few hops, of which we had some on board, +improved it much. It has the taste of new malt beer; and +I believe no one will doubt of its being very wholesome. +And yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it was injurious +to their health.</p> + +<p>They had no better reason to support a resolution, which +they took on our first arrival in King George's Sound, not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page410" id="page410"></a>[pg 410]</span> +to drink the spruce-beer made there. But, whether from +a consideration that it was not the first time of their being +required to use that liquor, or from some other reason, they +did not attempt to carry their purpose into actual execution; +and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed +their ignorant opposition to my best endeavours to +serve them. Every innovation whatever on board a ship, +though ever so much to the advantage of seamen, is sure +to meet with their highest disapprobation. Both portable +soup, and sour krout, were, at first, condemned as stuff unfit +for human beings. Few commanders have introduced +into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of food +and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders +have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments, +or been driven to the same necessity of trying them. +It has, however, been, in a great measure, owing to various +little deviations from established practice, that I have +been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from +that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has, perhaps, +destroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, +than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions.<a id="footnotetag132" name="footnotetag132"></a><a href="#footnote132"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>I kept at some distance from the coast, till the 13th, +when I stood in again, six leagues farther to windward than +we had as yet reached; and, after having some trade with +the natives who visited us, returned to sea. I should have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page411" id="page411"></a>[pg 411]</span> +got near the shore again on the 15th, for a supply of fruit +or roots, but the wind happening to be at S.E. by S., and +S.S.E., I thought this a good time to stretch to the eastward, +in order to get round, or, at least, to get a sight of +the S.E. end of the island. The wind continued at S.E. +by S., most part of the 16th. It was variable between S. +and E, on the 17th; and on the 18th, it was continually +veering from one quarter to another; blowing, sometimes, +in hard squalls, and, at other times, calm, with thunder, +lightning, and rain. In the afternoon, we had the wind +westerly for a few hours; but in the evening it shifted to +E. by S., and we stood to the southward, close hauled, under +an easy sail, as the Discovery was at some distance +astern. At this time the S.E. point of the island bore +S.W. by S., about five leagues distant; and I made no +doubt that I should be able to weather it. But at one +o'clock, next morning, it fell calm, and we were left to the +mercy of a north-easterly swell, which impelled us fast towards +the land; so that, long before day-break, we saw +lights upon the shore, which was not more than a league +distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and +rain.</p> + +<p>At three o'clock, the calm was succeeded by a breeze +from the S.E. by E., blowing in squalls, with rain. We +stood to the N.E., thinking it the best tack to clear the +coast; but, if it had been day-light, we should have chosen +the other. At day-break, the coast was seen extending +from N. by W., to S.W. by W.; a dreadful surf breaking +upon the shore, which was not more than half a league +distant. It was evident that we had been in the most imminent +danger. Nor were we yet in safety, the wind veering +more easterly; so that, for some time, we did but just +keep our distance from the coast. What made our situation +more alarming, was the leach-rope of the main top-sail +giving way, which was the occasion of the sail's being rent +in two; and the two top-gallant sails gave way in the same +manner, though not half worn out. By taking a favourable +opportunity, we soon got others to the yards, and then we +left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at some distance +to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see +her till eight o'clock.</p> + +<p>On this occasion, I cannot help observing, that I have +always found, that the bolt-ropes to our sails have not been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page412" id="page412"></a>[pg 412]</span> +of sufficient strength or substance. This at different times, +has been the source of infinite trouble and vexation, and of +much expence of canvas, ruined by their giving way. I +wish also, that I did not think there is room for remarking, +that the cordage and canvas, and, indeed, all the other +stores made use of in the navy, are not of equal goodness +with those, in general, used in the merchant service.</p> + +<p>It seems to be a very prevalent opinion, amongst naval +officers of all ranks, that the king's stores are better than +any others, and that no ships are so well fitted out as those +of the navy. Undoubtedly they are in the right, as to the +quantity; but, I fear, not as to the quality of the stores. +This, indeed, is seldom tried; for things are generally condemned, +or converted to some other use, by such time as +they are half worn out. It is only on such voyages as ours, +that we have an opportunity of making the trial, as our situation +makes it necessary to wear every thing to the very +utmost.<a id="footnotetag133" name="footnotetag133"></a><a href="#footnote133"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>As soon as day-light appeared, the natives ashore displayed +a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of +peace and friendship. Some of them ventured out after +us; but the wind freshening, and it not being safe to wait, +they were soon left astern.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather +the eastern extreme, which, failed, I gave it up, and +run down to the Discovery. Indeed, it was of no consequence +to get round the island; for we had seen its extent +to the S.E., which was the thing I aimed at; and, according +to the information which we had got from the natives, +there is no other island to the windward of this. However, +as we were so near the S.E. end of it, and as the least shift +of wind, in our favour, would serve to carry us round, I did +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page413" id="page413"></a>[pg 413]</span> +not wholly give up the idea of weathering it, and therefore +continued to ply.</p> + +<p>On the 20th, at noon, this S.E. point bore S., three +leagues distant; the snowy hills W.N.W., and we were +about four miles from the nearest shore. In the afternoon, +some of the natives came off in their canoes, bringing with +them a few pigs and plantains. The latter were very acceptable, +having had no vegetables for some days; but the +supply we now received was so inconsiderable, being barely +sufficient for one day, that I stood in again the next morning, +till within three or four miles of the land, where we +were met by a number of canoes, laden with provisions. +We brought-to, and continued trading with the people in +them, till four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty +good supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward.</p> + +<p>I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve +and suspicion, in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, +as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very +common for them to send up into the ship the several articles +they brought off for barter; afterward, they would +come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. +The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated +visits, do not care to put so much confidence in us. I infer +from this, that those of Owhyhee must be more faithful +in their dealings with one another, than the inhabitants of +Otaheite are. For, if little faith were observed amongst +themselves, they would not be so ready to trust strangers. +It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never +once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to commit +a theft. They understand trading as well as most people; +and seemed to comprehend clearly the reason of our +plying upon the coast. For, though they brought off provisions +in great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they kept up +their price; and, rather than dispose of them for less than +they thought they were worth, would take them on shore +again.<a id="footnotetag134" name="footnotetag134"></a><a href="#footnote134"><sup>5</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page414" id="page414"></a>[pg 414]</span> + +<p>On the 22d, at eight in the morning, we tacked to the +southward, with a fresh breeze at E. by N. At noon, the +latitude was 20° 28' 30"; and the snowy peak bore S.W. +1/2 S. We had a good view of it the preceding day, and +the quantity of snow seemed to have increased, and to extend +lower down the hill. I stood to the S.E. till midnight, +then tacked to the N. till four in the morning, when we returned +to the S.E. tack; and, as the wind was at N.E. by +E., we had hopes of weathering the island. We should +have succeeded, if the wind had not died away, and left us +to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward +the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length, +we got our head off, and some light puffs of wind, which +came with showers of rain, put us out of danger. While +we lay, as it were, becalmed, several of the islanders came +off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. Out of one canoe we +got a goose, which was about the size of a Muscovy duck. +Its plumage was dark-grey, and the bill and legs black.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon, after purchasing every thing +that the natives had brought off, which was full as much as +we had occasion for, we made sail, and stretched to the N., +with the wind at E.N.E. At midnight, we tacked, and +stood to the S.E. Upon a supposition that the Discovery +would see us tack, the signal was omitted; but she did not +see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to +the N.; for at day-light next morning she was not in sight. +At this time the weather being hazy we could not see far, +so that it was possible the Discovery might be following +us; and, being past the N.E. part of the island, I was +tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering to N.E., we +could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently +we could not stand to the N, to join, or look for, +the Discovery. At noon, we were, by observation, in latitude +of 19° 55', and in the longitude of 205° 3'; the S.E. +point of the island bore S. by E. 1/4 E, six leagues distant; +the other extreme bore N, 60° W., and we were two +leagues from the nearest shore. At six in the evening, the +southernmost extreme of the island bore S.W., the nearest +shore seven or eight miles distant; so that we had now +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page415" id="page415"></a>[pg 415]</span> +succeeded in getting to windward of the island, which we +had aimed at with so much perseverance.</p> + +<p>The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen. But +the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow +us, I concluded, that it would not be long before she +joined us. I therefore kept cruizing off this S.E. point of +the island, which lies in the latitude of 19° 34', and in the +longitude of 205° 6', till I was satisfied that Captain Clerke +could not join me here. I now conjectured, that he had +not been able to weather the N.E. part of the island, and +had gone to leeward, in order to meet me that way.</p> + +<p>As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the +land, no canoes, except one, came off to us till the 28th, +when we were visited by a dozen or fourteen. The people +who conducted them brought, as usual, the produce of the +island. I was very sorry that they had taken the trouble +to come so far. For we could not trade with them, our old +stock not being, as yet, consumed; and we had found, by +late experience, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor +the roots preserved from putrefaction, many days. However, +I intended not to leave this part of the island before +I got a supply, as it would not be easy to return to it again, +in case it should be found necessary.</p> + +<p>We began to be in want on the 30th, and I would have +stood in near the shore, but was prevented by a calm; but +a breeze springing up at midnight from S. and S.W., we +were enabled to stand in for the land at day-break. At ten +o'clock in the morning, we were met by the islanders with +fruit and roots; but, in all the canoes, were only three +small pigs. Our not having bought those which had been +lately brought off, may be supposed to be the reason of +this very scanty supply. We brought-to for the purposes +of trade; but, soon after, our marketing was interrupted +by a very hard rain, and, besides, we were rather too far +from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer; for I could not +depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a moment; +the swell also being high, and setting obliquely upon +the shore, against which it broke in a frightful surf. In +the evening the weather mended; the night was clear, and +it was spent in making short boards.</p> + +<p>Before day-break, the atmosphere was again loaded with +heavy clouds, and the new year was ushered in with very +hard rain, which continued, at intervals, till past ten o'clock. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page416" id="page416"></a>[pg 416]</span> +The wind was southerly; a light breeze with some calms, +when the rain ceased and the sky cleared, and the breeze +freshened. Being, at this time, about five miles from the +land, several canoes arrived with fruit and roots, and, at +last, some hogs were brought off. We lay to, trading with, +them till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable +supply, we made sail, with a view of proceeding to +the N.W., or lee-side of the island, to look for the Discovery. +It was necessary, however, the wind being at S., to +stretch first to the eastward, till midnight, when the wind +came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. +For several days past, both wind and weather had been exceedingly +unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain.</p> + +<p>The three following days were spent in running down the +S.E. side of the island. For, during the nights, we stood +off and on; and part of each day was employed in lying-to, +in order to furnish an opportunity to the natives of trading +with us. They sometimes came on board, while we +were five leagues from the shore. But, whether from a fear +of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of +a market, they never brought much with them. The principal +article procured was salt, which was extremely good.</p> + +<p>On the 5th in the morning, we passed the south point of +the island, which lies in the latitude of 18° 54', and beyond +it we found the coast to trend N. 60° W. On this point +stands a pretty large village, the inhabitants of which +thronged off to the ship with hogs and women. It was not +possible to keep the latter from coming on board, and no +women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it appeared +to me, that they visited us with no other view, than +to make a surrender of their persons. As I had now got a +quantity of salt, I purchased no hogs but such as were fit +for salting, refusing all that were under size. However, we +could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds weight. It +was happy for us, that we had still some vegetables on +board, for we now received few such productions. Indeed +this part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem +capable of affording them. Marks of its having been laid +waste by the explosion of a volcano, every where presented +themselves; and though we had as yet seen nothing like +one upon the island, the devastation that it had made in +this neighbourhood, was visible to the naked eye.</p> + +<p>This part of the coast is sheltered from the reigning +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page417" id="page417"></a>[pg 417]</span> +winds, but we could find no bottom to anchor upon, a line +of an hundred and sixty fathoms not reaching it, within the +distance of half a mile from the shore. The islanders having +all left us, toward the evening, we ran a few miles +down the coast, and then spent the night standing off and +on.</p> + +<p>The next morning, the natives visited us again, bringing +with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being +now near the shore, I sent Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat +to sound the coast, with orders to land, and to look for +fresh water. Upon his return, he reported, that, at two cables' +lengths from the shore, he had found no soundings +with a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms; that, when +he landed, he found no stream or spring, but only rain-water, +deposited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was +brackish from the spray of the sea, and that the surface of +the country was entirely composed of slags and ashes, with +a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven we saw +with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point +of the island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. +Captain Clerke then coming on board, informed me, that +he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, +and then plied round the east side of the island, but that, +meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried to +some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders +on board all this time, who had remained there from choice, +and had refused to quit the ship, though opportunities had +offered.</p> + +<p>Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in +again the next morning, and when we were about a league +from the shore, many of the natives visited us. At noon, +the observed latitude was 19° 1', and the longitude, by the +time-keeper, was 203° 26', the island extending from S. 74° +E. to N. 13° W., the nearest part two leagues distant.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 8th, we found that the currents, during +the night, which we spent in plying, had carried us +back considerably to windward; so that we were now off +the S.W. point of the island. There we brought-to, in order +to give the natives an opportunity of trading with us. +At noon our observed latitude was 19° 1', and our longitude, +by the time-keeper, was 203° 13', the S.W. point of the +island N. 30° E., two miles distant.</p> + +<p>We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page418" id="page418"></a>[pg 418]</span> +happened, that four men and ten women who had come on +board the preceding day, still remained with us. As I did +not like the company of the latter, I stood in shore towards +noon, principally with a view to get them out of the ship; +and some canoes coming off, I took that opportunity of +sending away our guests.</p> + +<p>We had light airs from N.W. and S.W., and calms, till +eleven in the morning of the 10th, when the wind freshened +at W.N.W., which, with a strong current setting to the +S.E., so much retarded us, that, in the evening, between +seven and eight o'clock, the S. point of the island bore N. +10-1/2° W., four leagues distant. The south snowy hill now +bore N. 1-1/2° E.</p> + +<p>At four in the morning of the 11th, the wind having fixed +at W., I stood in for the land, in order to get some refreshments. +As we drew near the shore, the natives began +to come off. We lay to, or stood on and off, trading with +them all the day, but got a very scanty supply at last. +Many canoes visited us, whose people had not a single thing +to barter, which convinced us, that this part of the island +must be very poor, and that we had already got all that +they could spare. We spent the 12th plying off and on, +with a fresh gale at W. A mile from the shore and to the +N.E. of the S. point of the island, having tried soundings, +we found ground at fifty-five fathoms depth, the bottom a +fine sand. At five in the evening, we stood to the S.W., +with the wind at W.N.W., and soon after midnight we had +a calm.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock next morning, having got a small breeze +at S.S.E., we steered to the N.N.W., in for the land. Soon +after, a few canoes came along-side with some hogs, but +without any vegetables, which articles we most wanted. +We had now made some progress; for at noon the S. point +of the island bore S. 86-1/2° E., the S.W. point N. 13° W., the +nearest shore two leagues distant; latitude, by observation, +18° 56', and our longitude, by the time-keeper, 203° 40'. +We had got the length of the S.W. point of the island in +the evening, but the wind now veering to the westward +and northward, during the night we lost all that we had +gained. Next morning, being still off the S.W. point of +the island, some canoes came off; but they had nothing +that we were in want of. We had now neither fruit nor +roots, and were under a necessity of making use of some of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page419" id="page419"></a>[pg 419]</span> +our sea-provisions. At length, some canoes from the northward +brought us a small supply of hogs and roots.</p> + +<p>We had variable light airs next to a calm, the following +day, till five in the afternoon, when a small breeze at +E.N.E. springing up, we were at last enabled to steer along +shore to the northward. The weather being fine, we had +plenty of company this day, and abundance of every thing. +Many of our visitors remained with us on board all night, +and we towed their canoes astern.</p> + +<p>At day-break on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a +bay, I sent Mr Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine +it, being at this time three leagues off. Canoes now +began to arrive from all parts; so that before ten o'clock, +there were no fewer than a thousand about the two ships, +most of them crowded with people, and well laden with +hogs and other productions of the island. We had the +most satisfying proof of their friendly intentions; for we +did not see a single person who had with him a weapon of +any sort. Trade and curiosity alone had brought them off. +Among such numbers as we had at times on board, it is no +wonder that some should betray a thievish disposition. One +of our visitors took out of the ship a boat's rudder. He was +discovered, but too late to recover it. I thought this a good +opportunity to shew these people the use of fire-arms; and +two or three muskets, and as many four-pounders, were fired +over the canoe, which carried off the rudder. As it was not +intended that any of the shot should take effect, the surrounding +multitude of natives seemed rather more surprised +than frightened.</p> + +<p>In the evening Mr Bligh returned, and reported, that he +had found a bay in which was good anchorage, and fresh +water in a situation tolerably easy to be come at. Into this +bay I resolved to carry the ships, there to refit, and supply +ourselves with every refreshment that the place could afford. +As night approached, the greater part of our visitors retired +to the shore, but numbers of them requested our permission +to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at +least with some; for, the next morning, several things were +missing, which determined me not to entertain so many another +night.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we anchored in the +bay, (which is called by the natives <i>Karakakooa</i>,) in thirteen +fathoms water, over a sandy bottom, and about a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page420" id="page420"></a>[pg 420]</span> +quarter of a mile from the N.E. shore. In this situation, the S. +point of the bay bore S. by W., and the N. point W. 1/2 N. +We moored with the stream-anchor and cable to the northward, +unbent the sails, and struck yards and top-masts. +The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and +were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had no where, +in the course of my voyage, seen so numerous a body of +people assembled at one place. For, besides those who had +come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered +with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming +round the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be +struck with the singularity of this scene; and perhaps there +were few on board who now lamented our having failed in +our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward last +summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in +our power to revisit the <i>Sandwich Islands</i>, and to enrich our +voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed, in +many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto +been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific +Ocean.<a id="footnotetag135" name="footnotetag135"></a><a href="#footnote135"><sup>6</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote130" name="footnote130"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag130"> (return) </a><p>On the chart of Krenitzen's and Levasheff's voyage in 1768 and +1769, +which we find in Mr Coxe's book, p. 251, an island called Amuckta, is +laid down, not very far from the place assigned to Amoghta by Captain +Cook.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote131" name="footnote131"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag131"> (return) </a><p>Though this rock had no place in the Russian map produced by +Ismyloff, +it has a place in the chart of Krenitzen's and Levasheff's voyage +above referred to. That chart also agrees with Captain Cook's, as to the +general position of this group of islands. The singularly indented shores +of the island of Oonalashka are represented in both charts much alike. +These circumstances are worth attending to, as the more modern Russian +maps of this Archipelago are so wonderfully erroneous.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote132" name="footnote132"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag132"> (return) </a><p>So much for the effect of ignorance and prejudice. One requires the +strong evidence of such a careful observer as Captain Cook to be convinced +of their existence, in such intense degree, among a set of people, accustomed, +from the nature of their profession, to witness the vast variety +of different manners and modes of life in different countries; though +every notion we could form of their habits and tempers might lead us to +infer <i>a priori</i>, the obstinacy with which they would resist any innovation +on their established practices. Probably, however, when left to themselves, +they readily enough fall in with changes; and hence it may often +be more judicious to put temptations in their way, in order to obtain a salutary +purpose, than to recommend or enforce it as conducive to their +welfare. It is easy to understand, on the common principles of human +nature, that the former method will generally prove most efficient; whereas +the latter, because it implies a kind of restraint, will, consequently, be +disliked, and opposed or evaded. Sailors, on the whole, perhaps, bear +the greatest resemblance to children of any of the full-grown species. It +is of some consequence to know how to treat them as such. A little +coaxing and flattery is a very necessary ingredient in any thing intended +for them; and often it may be extremely politic to seem to refuse, or to +be averse to give them what we are at the same time really anxious they +should have. But it is easy to prescribe in such cases!—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote133" name="footnote133"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag133"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook may, in part, be right in his comparison of some +cordage +used in the king's service, with what is used in that of the merchants; +especially in time of war, when part of the cordage wanted in the navy is, +from necessity, made by contract. But it is well known, that there is no +better cordage than what is made in the king's yards. This explanation +of the preceding paragraph has been subjoined, on the authority of a naval +officer of distinguished rank, and great professional ability, who has, +at the same time, recommended it as a necessary precaution, that ships +fitted out on voyages of discovery, should be furnished with no cordage, +but what is made in the king's yards; and, indeed, that every article of +their store, of every kind, should be the best that can be made.—D.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote134" name="footnote134"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag134"> (return) </a><p>The reader is desired to pay particular attention to the high +testimony +borne by Cook to the characters of these islanders. It is a circumstance +too singularly interesting not to give rise to some painful reflections, that, +on apparently good grounds, he should have entertained the best opinion +of those very people, from whom he was destined shortly afterwards to +receive the greatest of injuries. However that event is to be +explained, +it seems very fair that his evidence in their favour obtain full regard, and +that they, therefore, be entitled to any benefits it may be supposed to +confer.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote135" name="footnote135"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag135"> (return) </a><p>Thus ends Captain Cook's journal of his proceedings, and the +visible +satisfaction which pervades the concluding sentences, as is noticed in the +Biog. Brit., must strike the mind of every reader. They indicate the high +value which our navigator attached to this last discovery, now so irrevocably, +but so painfully, associated with the honours of his name; whilst, in +his unapprehending confidence, and the wonted calmness of his style, we +see the agency of that beneficent law in our system, by which we are preserved +ignorant of the evils that every hour and moment of our time may +bring over us. Nor ought we to omit remarking as something peculiar, +that Cook's allusion to the present comfortable opinion and feelings of his +associates on the failure of their labours in the northern hemisphere, +founded, no doubt, on the general expression of satisfaction, serves as a +material aggravation, in the way of contrast, to our conceptions of their +subsequent distress and grief, under the calamity of his most afflicting +death.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page421" id="page421"></a>[pg 421]</span> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<h2>CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON +RETURNING TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.<a id="footnotetag136" name="footnotetag136"></a><a href="#footnote136"><sup>1</sup></a></h2> + + +<h3>SECTION I.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Description of Karakakooa Bay.—Vast Concourse of the Natives.—Power +of the Chiefs over the inferior People.—Visit +from Koah, a Priest and Warrior.—The Morai at Kakooa +described.—Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook.—Observatories +erected.—Powerful Operation of the Taboo.—Method +of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates.—Society of +Priests discovered.—Their Hospitality and Munificence.—Reception +of Captain Cook.—Artifice of Koah.—Arrival +of Terreoboo, King of the Island.—Returned by Captain +Cook.</i></blockquote> + +<p>Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of +the island of Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It +is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low points of +land, at the distance of half a league, and bearing S.S.E. +and N.N.W. from each other. On the north point, which +is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa; and in +the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, +there is another village of a more considerable size, called +Kakooa; between them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible +from the sea shore. On the south side, the coast, for +about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; beyond +which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread +with cultivated enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page422" id="page422"></a>[pg 422]</span> +trees, where the habitations of the natives are scattered in +great numbers. The shore, all round the bay, is covered +with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous +in rough weather, except at the village of Kakooa, +where there is a fine sandy beach, with a <i>morai</i>, or burying-place, +at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at +the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper +place to refit the ships, and lay in an additional supply of +water and provisions, we moored on the north side, about +a quarter of a mile from the shore, Kowrowa bearing +W.N.W.</p> + +<p>As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring +in the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing +numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and +shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant +gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships +were soon completely covered with them, and a multitude +of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, +came swimming round us in shoals, many of whom not finding +room on board, remained the whole day playing in the +water.</p> + +<p>Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, +was a young man, called Pareea, whom we soon perceived +to be a person of great authority. On presenting himself +to Captain Cook, he told him, that he was <i>Jakanee</i><a id="footnotetag137" name="footnotetag137"></a><a href="#footnote137"><sup>2</sup></a> to the +king of the island, who was at that time engaged on a military +expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return +within three or four days. A few presents from Captain +Cook attached him entirely to our interests, and he became +exceedingly useful to us in the management of his countrymen, +as we had soon occasion to experience. For we had +not been long at anchor, when it was observed that the +Discovery had such a number of people hanging on one +side, as occasioned her to heel considerably; and that the +men were unable to keep off the crowds which continued +pressing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehensive that +she might suffer some injury, pointed out the danger to +Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared +the ship of its encumbrances, and drove away the canoes +that surrounded her.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page423" id="page423"></a>[pg 423]</span> + +<p>The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared +from this incident to be of the most despotic kind. +A similar instance of it happened the same day on board +the Resolution, where the crowd being so great, as to impede +the necessary business of the ship, we were obliged to +have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of +their chiefs, who had likewise attached himself to Captain +Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made +known, he immediately ordered his countrymen to quit the +vessel; and we were not a little surprised to see them jump +overboard, without a moment's hesitation, all except one +man, who, loitering behind, and shewing some unwillingness +to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms, and threw +him into the sea.</p> + +<p>Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned +bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing; +Kaneena especially, whose portrait Mr Webber has drawn, +was one of the finest men I ever saw. He was about six +feet high, had regular and expressive features, with lively, +dark eyes; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful.</p> + +<p>It has been already mentioned, that, during our long +cruise off this island, the inhabitants had always behaved +with great fairness and honesty in their dealings, and had +not shewn the slightest propensity to theft, which appeared +to us the more extraordinary, because those with whom we +had hitherto held any intercourse, were of the lowest rank, +either servants or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly +altered. The immense crowd of islanders, which +blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent +opportunity of pilfering without risk of discovery, +but our inferiority in number held forth a prospect of escaping +with impunity in case of detection. Another circumstance, +to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, +was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs; +for, generally tracing the booty into the possession of some +men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect +that these depredations were committed at their instigation.</p> + +<p>Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our +two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third +chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a priest, and +had been in his youth a distinguished warrior. He was a +little old man, of an emaciated figure, his eyes exceedingly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page424" id="page424"></a>[pg 424]</span> +sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous +scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the <i>ava</i>. Being +led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great +veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red +cloth, which he had brought along with him. Then stepping +a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig +which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse +that lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was +frequently repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared +to us, from many circumstances, to be a sort of religious +adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed +with red cloth, in the same manner as was done to Captain +Cook, and a small pig was their usual offering to the <i>Eatooas</i>. +Their speeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a +readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according +to some formulary.</p> + +<p>When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain +Cook, eating plentifully of what was set before him, but, +like the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, +could scarcely be prevailed on to taste a second time our +wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended +by Mr Bayly and myself, accompanied him on ashore. We +landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who +carried wands tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, +pronouncing with a loud voice a short sentence, in which +we could only distinguish the word <i>Orono</i>.<a id="footnotetag138" name="footnotetag138"></a><a href="#footnote138"><sup>3</sup></a> The crowd, +which had been collected on the shore, retired at our approach; +and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying +prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining +village.</p> + +<p>Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to +Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he +was received on this fatal island, it will be necessary to describe +the <i>morai</i>, situated, as I have already mentioned, at +the south side of the beach at <i>Kakooa</i>. It was a square solid +pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and +fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paved, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page425" id="page425"></a>[pg 425]</span> +surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the +sculls of the captives, sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. +In the centre of the area, stood a ruinous old building of +wood, connected with a rail, on each side, by a stone wall, +which divided the whole space into two parts. On the side +next the country were five poles, upward of twenty feet +high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold; on the opposite +side, toward the sea, stood two small houses, with a +covered communication.</p> + +<p>We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by +an easy ascent, leading from the beach to the N.W. corner +of the area. At the entrance, we saw two large wooden +images, with features violently distorted, and a long piece +of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, rising from the +top of their heads, the rest was without form, and wrapped +round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young +man, with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to +the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he +was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of the <i>morai</i> +where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them were +twelve images ranged in a semicircular form, and before the +middle figure stood a high stand or table, exactly resembling +the <i>whatta</i><a id="footnotetag139" name="footnotetag139"></a><a href="#footnote139"><sup>4</sup></a> of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, +and under it pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +plantains, and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the +captain under this stand, took down the hog, and held it +toward him; and after having a second time addressed him +in a long speech, pronounced with much vehemence and +rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the +scaffolding, which they began to climb together, not without +great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming in +solemn procession, at the entrance of the top of the <i>morai</i>, +ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. +Being advanced a few paces, they stopped, and prostrated +themselves; and Kaireekeea, the young man above-mentioned, +went to them and received the cloth, carried it to +Koah, who wrapped it round the captain, and afterward offered +him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with +the same ceremony.</p> + +<p>Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, +swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page426" id="page426"></a>[pg 426]</span> +his hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea +and Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in +concert, and sometimes alternately. This lasted a considerable +time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he +and the captain descended together. He then led him to +the images before mentioned, and having said something to +each in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he +passed, he brought him to that in the centre, which, from +its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be in greater +estimation than the rest. Before this figure he prostrated +himself, and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the +same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout +the whole of this ceremony.</p> + +<p>We were now led back into the other division of the <i>morai</i>, +where there was a space, ten or twelve feet square, sunk +about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we +descended, and Captain Cook was seated between two wooden +idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, whilst I was desired +to support the other. At this time arrived a second +procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, +some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When +they approached us, Kaireekeea put himself at their head, +and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in the usual manner, +began the same kind of chant as before, his companions +making regular responses. We observed, that, after +every response, their parts became gradually shorter, till, +toward the close, Kaireekeea's consisted of only two or three +words, which the rest answered by the word <i>orono</i>.</p> + +<p>When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter +of an hour, the natives sat down fronting us, and began +to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break +the cocoa-nuts, whilst others employed themselves in brewing +the <i>ava</i>, which is done by chewing it, in the same manner +as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part +of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping +it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, +head, hands, arms, and shoulders. The <i>ava</i> was then handed +round, and after we had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began +to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into +our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by +Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person, but Captain +Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, +could not swallow a morsel; and his reluctance, as may be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page427" id="page427"></a>[pg 427]</span> +supposed, was not diminished, when the old man, according +to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him.</p> + +<p>When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain +Cook put an end to as soon as he decently could, we quitted +the <i>morai</i>, after distributing amongst the people some +pieces of iron and other trifles, with which they seemed +highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the +boats, repeating the same words as before. The people +again retired, and the few that remained, prostrated themselves +as we passed along the shore. We immediately went +on board, our minds full of what we had seen, and extremely +well satisfied with the good disposition of our new friends. +The meaning of the various ceremonies with which we had +been received, and which, on account of their novelty and +singularity, have been related at length, can only be the +subject of conjectures, and those uncertain and partial; they +were, however, without doubt, expressive of high respect +on the part of the natives; and, as far as related to the person +of Captain Cook, they seemed approaching to adoration.</p> + +<p>The next morning, I went on shore with a guard of eight +marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders +to erect the observatory in such a situation as might +best enable me to superintend and protect the waterers, and +the other working parties that were to be on shore. As we +were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this purpose, +in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready +to shew both his power and his good-will, offered to pull +down some houses that would have obstructed our observations. +However, we thought it proper to decline this offer, +and fixed on a field of sweet potatoes adjoining to the <i>morai</i>, +which was readily granted us; and the priests, to prevent +the intrusion of the natives, immediately consecrated +the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it +was enclosed.</p> + +<p>This sort of religious interdiction they call <i>taboo</i>, a word +we heard often repeated, during our stay amongst these +islanders, and found to be of very powerful and extensive +operation. A more particular explanation of it will be given +in the general account of these islands, under the article +of religion; at present it is only necessary to observe, +that it procured us even more privacy than we desired. No +canoes ever presumed to land near us; the natives sat on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page428" id="page428"></a>[pg 428]</span> +the wall, but none offered to come within the <i>tabooed</i> space, +till he had obtained our permission. But though the men, +at our request, would come across the field with provisions, +yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to +approach us. Presents were tried, but without effect; Pareea +and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain; +we were invariably answered, that the <i>Eatooa</i> and <i>Terreeoboo</i> +(which was the name of their king) would kill them. +This circumstance afforded no small matter of amusement +to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and +particularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged +them almost every hour to clear the vessel, in order +to have room to do the necessary duties of the ship. On +these occasions, two or three hundred women were frequently +made to jump into the water at once, where they continued +swimming and playing about, till they could again +procure admittance.</p> + +<p>From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left +us to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other +part of the island, nothing very material happened on board. +The caulkers were set to work on the sides of the ships, and +the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The +salting of hogs for sea-store was also a constant, and one of +the principal objects of Captain Cook's attention. As the +success we met with in this experiment, during our present +voyage, was much more complete than it had been in any +former attempt of the same kind, it may not be improper +to give an account of the detail of the operation.</p> + +<p>It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the +flesh of animals by salting in tropical climates, the progress +of putrefaction being so rapid, as not to allow time for the +salt to take (as they express it) before the meat gets a taint, +which prevents the effect of the pickle. We do not find +that experiments, relative to this subject, have been made +by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In +his first trials, which were made in 1774, during his second +voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the success he met with, +though very imperfect, was yet sufficient to convince him +of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage, in +which he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a +year beyond the time for which the ships had been victualled, +he was under the necessity of providing, by some such +means, for the subsistence of the crews, or of relinquishing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page429" id="page429"></a>[pg 429]</span> +the further prosecution of his discoveries. He therefore +lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event +answered his most sanguine expectations.</p> + +<p>The hogs which we made use of for this purpose, were +of various sizes, weighing from four to twelve stone.<a id="footnotetag140" name="footnotetag140"></a><a href="#footnote140"><sup>5</sup></a> The +time of slaughtering was always in the afternoon; and as +soon as the hair was scalded off, and the entrails removed, +the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight pounds +each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out, and, +in the larger sort, the ribs also. Every piece then being +carefully wiped and examined, and the veins cleared of the +coagulated blood, they were handed to the salters, whilst +the flesh remained still warm. After they had been well +rubbed with salt, they were placed in a heap on a stage +raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed +with the heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this +situation they remained till the next evening, when they +were again well wiped and examined, and the suspicious +parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of strong +pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a +day, and if any piece had not taken the salt, which was +readily discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were immediately +taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces +put to fresh pickle. This, however, after the precautions +before used, seldom happened. After six days, they were +taken out, examined for the last time, and being again +slightly pressed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin +layer of salt between them. I brought home with me some +barrels of this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January, +1779, and was tasted by several persons in England +about Christmas, 1780, and found perfectly sound and wholesome.<a id="footnotetag141" name="footnotetag141"></a><a href="#footnote141"><sup>6</sup></a></p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page430" id="page430"></a>[pg 430]</span> + +<p>I shall now return to our transactions on shore at the observatory, +where we had not been long settled before we +discovered, in our neighbourhood, the habitation of a society +of priests, whose regular attendance at the <i>morai</i> had +excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of +water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, +which separated them from the beach and the rest of the +village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. +On my acquainting Captain Cook with these circumstances, +he resolved to pay them a visit; and, as he expected to be +received in the same manner as before, he brought Mr +Webber with him to make a drawing of the ceremony.</p> + +<p>On his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a sacred +building called <i>Harre-no-Orono</i>, or the house of <i>Orono</i>, and +seated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of +the same kind with those on the <i>morai</i>. I was here again +made to support one of his arms; and, after wrapping him +in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, +made an offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. The +pig was then strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was +thrown into the embers, and after the hair was singed off, +it was again presented, with a repetition of the chanting in +the manner described. The dead pig was then held for a +short time under the captain's nose, after which it was laid, +with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers sat down. +The <i>ava</i> was then brewed, and handed round; a fat hog, +ready dressed, was brought in, and we were fed as before.</p> + +<p>During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, +whenever Captain Cook came on shore, he was attended by +one of these priests, who went before him, giving notice +that the <i>Orono</i> had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate +themselves. The same person, also, constantly accompanied +him on the water, standing in the bow of the +boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach +to the natives who were in canoes, on which they +immediately left off paddling, and lay down on their faces +till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page431" id="page431"></a>[pg 431]</span> +observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their +appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and +presented them with the usual solemnities. It was on these +occasions that some of the inferior chiefs frequently requested +to be permitted to make an offering to the <i>Orono</i>. +When this was granted, they presented the hog themselves, +generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances, +whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their +accustomed hymns.</p> + +<p>The civilities of this society were not, however, confined +to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received +from them, every day, a constant supply of hogs and +vegetables, more than sufficient for our subsistence; and several +canoes, loaded with provisions, were sent to the ships +with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded, +or even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents +were made with a regularity, more like the discharge +of a religious duty, than the effect of mere liberality; and +when we enquired at whose charge all this munificence was +displayed, we were told, it was at the expence of a great +man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and grandfather +to Kaireekeea, who was at that time absent attending the +king of the island.</p> + +<p>As every thing relating to the character and behaviour of +this people must be interesting to the reader, on account of +the tragedy that was afterwards acted here, it will be proper +to acquaint him, that we had not always so much reason to +be satisfied with the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or <i>Earees</i>, +as with that of the priests. In all our dealings with the +former, we found them sufficiently attentive to their own +interests; and besides their habit of stealing, which may +admit of some excuse, from the universality of the practice +amongst the islanders of these seas, they made use of other +artifices equally dishonourable. I shall only mention one +instance, in which we discovered, with regret, our friend +Koah to be a party principally concerned. As the chiefs, +who brought us presents of hogs, were always sent back +handsomely rewarded, we had generally a greater supply +than we could make use of. On these occasions, Koah, who +never failed in his attendance on us, used to beg such as we +did not want, and they were always given to him. It one +day happened, that a pig was presented us by a man whom +Koah himself introduced as a chief, who was desirous of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page432" id="page432"></a>[pg 432]</span> +paying his respects, and we recollected the pig to be the +same that had been given to Koah just before. This leading +us to suspect some trick, we found, on further enquiry, +the pretended chief to be an ordinary person; and on connecting +this with other circumstances, we had reason to +suspect, that it was not the first time we had been the dupes +of the like imposition.</p> + +<p>Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we +were a good deal surprised to find that no canoes were suffered +to put off from the shore, and that the natives kept +close to their houses. After several hours suspense, we +learned that the bay was <i>tabooed</i>, and all intercourse with +us interdicted, on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As +we had not foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews of +both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual +supply of vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they +endeavoured, both by threats and promises, to induce the +natives to come along-side; and as some of them were at +last venturing to put off, a chief was observed attempting +to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over +his head, to make him desist, which had the desired effect, +and refreshments were soon after purchased, as usual. In +the afternoon, Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the ships in +a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which +were his wife and children. He staid on board till near +ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa.</p> + +<p>The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended +by two others, set out from the village, and paddled +toward the ships in great state. Their appearance was +grand and magnificent. In the first canoe was Terreeoboo +and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and +helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers; in the +second, came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, +and his brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. +These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, +and curiously covered with small feathers of various +colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. +Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black +nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a double +row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of +their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe +was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. As +they went along, the priests in the centre-canoe sung their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page433" id="page433"></a>[pg 433]</span> +hymns with great solemnity; and, after paddling round the +ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, they +made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed.<a id="footnotetag142" name="footnotetag142"></a><a href="#footnote142"><sup>7</sup></a></p> + +<p>As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our +little guard to receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving +that he was going on shore, followed him, and arrived +nearly at the same time. We conducted them into +the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when the +king rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the +captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered +helmet upon his head, and a curious fan into his +hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks, +all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His +attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, +cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceremony +was concluded by the king's exchanging names +with Captain Cook, which, amongst all the islanders of the +Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. +A procession of priests, with a venerable old personage +at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train, +of men leading large hogs, and others carrying plantains, +sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and gestures of Kaireekeea, +I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of +the priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so +long subsisted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, +which he wrapped round Captain Cook's shoulders, and afterwards +presented him with a small pig in the usual form. +A seat was then made for him, next to the king, after +which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, +Kaoo and the chiefs joining in the responses.</p> + +<p>I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the +same infirm and emaciated old man, that came on board +the Resolution when we were off the north-east side of the +island of Mowee; and we soon discovered amongst his attendants, +most of the persons who at that time had remained +with us all night. Of this number were the two younger +sons of the king, the eldest of whom was sixteen years of +age, and his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at first we had +some difficulty in recollecting, his hair being plastered over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page434" id="page434"></a>[pg 434]</span> +with a dirty brown paste and powder, which was no mean +heightening to the most savage face I ever beheld.</p> + +<p>As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over. +Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as +the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They +were received with every mark of respect that could be +shewn them; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered +cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, and girt his own +hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half a +dozen old chiefs, remained on shore, and took up their +abode at the priests' houses. During all this time, not a +canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives either kept +within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. Before +the king left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave +for the natives to come and trade with the ships as usual; +but the women, for what reason we could not learn, still +continued under the effects of the <i>taboo</i>; that is, were forbidden +to stir from home, or to have any communication +with us.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote136" name="footnote136"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag136"> (return) </a><p>The reader is informed once for all, that the notes to the +remainder +of this voyage, to which no signature is attached, are to be considered as +forming a part of Captain King's own publication.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote137" name="footnote137"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag137"> (return) </a><p>We afterward met with several others of the same denomination; but +whether it be an office, or some degree of affinity, we could never learn +with certainty.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote138" name="footnote138"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag138"> (return) </a><p>Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the natives of +Owhyhee, but we could never learn its precise meaning. Sometimes they +applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived in the heavens. We +also found that it was a title belonging to a personage of great rank and +power in the island, who resembles pretty much the Delai Lama of the +Tartars, and the ecclesiastical emperor of Japan.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote139" name="footnote139"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag139"> (return) </a><p>See Captain Cook's former voyage.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote140" name="footnote140"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag140"> (return) </a><p>14 lb.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote141" name="footnote141"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag141"> (return) </a><p>Since these papers were prepared for the press, I have been +informed +by Mr Vancouver, who was one of my midshipmen in the Discovery, and +was afterward appointed lieutenant of the Martin sloop of war, that he +tried the method here recommended, both with English and Spanish pork, +during a cruize on the Spanish Main, in the year 1782, and succeeded to +the utmost of his expectations. He also made the experiment at Jamaica +with the beef served by the victualling-office to the ships, but not with the +same success, which he attributes to the want of the necessary precautions +in killing and handling the beasts; to their being hung up and opened before +they had sufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-vessels +were exposed to the air, and the blood condensed before it had time +to +empty itself, and to their being hard driven and bruised. He adds, that +having himself attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken +on board the Martin, he salted a part of it, which, at the end of the week, +was found to have taken the salt completely, and he has no doubt would +have kept for any length of time; but the experiment was not tried.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote142" name="footnote142"></a><b>Footnote 7:</b><a href="#footnotetag142"> (return) </a><p>The presents were made to Captain Cook after he went on shore.</p></blockquote> + + +<h3>SECTION II.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives.—Their +Hospitality.—Propensity to Theft.—Description of a Boxing +Match.—Death of one of our Seamen.—Behaviour of +the Priests at his funeral.—The Wood Work and Images +on the Morai purchased.—The Natives inquisitive about our +Departure.—Their Opinion about the Design of our Voyage.—Magnificent +Presents of Terreeoboo to Captain Cook.—The +Ships leave the Island.—The Resolution damaged in +a Gale, and obliged to return.</i></blockquote> + +<p>The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having +taken away every apprehension of danger, we did not +hesitate to trust ourselves amongst them at all times, and +in all situations. The officers of both ships went daily up +the country, in small parties, or even singly, and frequently +remained out the whole night. It would be endless to recount +all the instances of kindness and civility which we +received upon those occasions. Wherever we went, the +people flocked about us, eager to offer every assistance in +their power, and highly gratified, if their services were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page435" id="page435"></a>[pg 435]</span> +accepted. Various little arts were practised to attract our +notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran +before, as we walked through their villages, and stopped +us at every opening, where there was room to form a group +for dancing. At one time, we were invited to accept a +draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some other refreshment, under +the shade of their huts; at another, we were seated +within a circle of young women, who exerted all their skill +and agility to amuse us with songs and dances.</p> + +<p>The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and +hospitality was, however, frequently interrupted by the propensity +to stealing, which they have in common with all +the other islanders of these seas. This circumstance was +the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse +to acts of severity, which we should willingly have +avoided, if the necessity of the case had not absolutely +called for them. Some of their most expert swimmers +were one day discovered under the ships, drawing out the +filling nails of the sheathing, which they performed very +dexterously by means of a short stick, with a flint-stone +fixed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, +which endangered the very existence of the vessels, we at +first fired small shot at the offenders; but they easily got +out of our reach by diving under the ship's bottom. It was +therefore found necessary to make an example, by flogging +one of them on board the Discovery.</p> + +<p>About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both +ships, set out on an excursion into the interior parts of the +country, with a view of examining its natural productions. +An account of this journey will be given in a subsequent +part of our narrative. It is, therefore, only necessary at +present to observe, that it afforded Kaoo a fresh opportunity +of shewing his attention and generosity. For as soon +as he was informed of their departure, he sent a large supply +of provisions after them, together with orders, that the +inhabitants of the country through which they were to +pass, should give them every assistance in their power. +And, to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of his +conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed +on to accept the smallest present. After remaining +out six days, our officers returned, without having been +able to penetrate above twenty miles into the island, partly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page436" id="page436"></a>[pg 436]</span> +from want of proper guides, and partly from the impracticability +of the country.</p> + +<p>The head of the Resolution's rudder being found exceedingly +shaken, and most of the pintles either loose or broken, +it was unhung, and sent on shore on the 27th in the +morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the same time +the carpenters were sent into the country, under conduct +of some of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the head rail-work, +which was also entirely decayed and rotten.</p> + +<p>On the 28th, Captain Clerke, whose ill health confined +him, for the most part, on board, paid Terreeoboo, his first +visit, at his hut on shore. He was received with the same +formalities as were observed with Captain Cook; and, on +his coming away, though the visit was quite unexpected, +he received a present of thirty large hogs, and as much +fruit and roots as his crew could consume in a week.</p> + +<p>As we had not yet seen any thing of their sports or athletic +exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our +officers, entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. +Though these games were much inferior, as well in point +of solemnity and magnificence, as in the skill and powers +of the combatants, to what we had seen exhibited at the +Friendly Islands; yet, as they differed in some particulars, +it may not be improper to give a short account of them. +We found a vast concourse of people assembled on a level +spot of ground, at a little distance from our tents. A long +space was left vacant in the midst of them, at the upper +end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from +which hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of +two wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches of feathers. +When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given +by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. +They came forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high +behind, and drawing their hands along the soles. As they +approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to +foot, in a contemptuous manner, casting several arch looks +at the spectators, straining their muscles, and using a variety +of affected gestures. Being advanced within reach of +each other, they stood with both arms held out straight +before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. +They struck, in what appeared to our eyes an awkward +manner, with a full swing of the arm; made no attempt to +parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an inclination +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page437" id="page437"></a>[pg 437]</span> +of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided; +for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell +by accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor +expressed his triumph by a variety of gestures, which +usually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among the +spectators. He then waited for a second antagonist, and, +if again victorious, for a third, till he was at last, in his +turn, defeated. A singular rule observed in these combats +is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person +may step in, and choose either of them for his antagonist, +when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes +three or four followed each other in this manner, before +the match was settled. When the combat proved longer +than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally +stepped in, and ended it by putting a stick between +the combatants. The same good humour was preserved +throughout, which we before so much admired in the +Friendly Islanders. As these games were given at our desire, +we found it universally expected that we should have +borne our part in them; but our people, though much +pressed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, +remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly +Islands.</p> + +<p>This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's +crew; an event which I mention the more particularly, +as death had hitherto been very rare amongst us. +He was an old man, and much respected on account of his +attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as +a marine twenty-one years; after which, he entered as a +seaman on board the Resolution in 1772, and served with. +Captain Cook in his voyage toward the South Pole. At +their return, he was admitted into Greenwich hospital, +through the captain's interest, at the same time with himself; +and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes +of his benefactor, he also quitted it along with him, on his +being appointed to the command of the present expedition. +During the voyage, he had been frequently subject to slight +fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the bay, +where, being sent on shore for a few days, he conceived +himself perfectly recovered, and, at his own desire, returned +on board; but the day following, he had a paralytic +stroke, which in two days more carried him off.</p> + +<p>At the request of the king of the island, he was buried +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page438" id="page438"></a>[pg 438]</span> +on the <i>morai</i>, and the ceremony was performed with as +much solemnity as our situation permitted. Old Kaoo and +his brethren were spectators, and preserved the most profound +silence and attention, whilst the service was reading. +When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it +with great reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, +and plantains; and, for three nights afterward, they surrounded +it, sacrificing hogs, and performing their usual +ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break.</p> + +<p>At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed +upon it a square piece of board, on which was inscribed the +name of the deceased, his age, and the day of his death. +This they promised not to remove; and we have no doubt +but that it will be suffered to remain as long as the frail +materials of which it is made will permit.</p> + +<p>The ships being in great want of fuel, the captain desired +me, on the 2d of February, to treat with the priests, for +the purchase of the rail that surrounded the top of the <i>morai</i>. +I must confess, I had, at first, some doubt about the +decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive, that even +the bare mention of it might be considered, by them, as a +piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself +mistaken. Not the smallest surprise was expressed at +the application, and the wood was readily given, even +without stipulating for any thing in return. Whilst the +sailors were taking it away, I observed one of them carrying +off a carved image; and, on farther enquiry, I found +that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semicircle.<a id="footnotetag143" name="footnotetag143"></a><a href="#footnote143"><sup>1</sup></a> +Though this was done in the presence of the natives, who +had not shewn any mark of resentment at it, but had even +assisted them in the removal. I thought it proper to speak +to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very indifferent +about the matter, and only desired, that we would restore +the centre image I have mentioned before, which he carried +into one of the priests houses.</p> + +<p>Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been +very inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circumstance +had excited in me a great curiosity to know +what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were +their ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page439" id="page439"></a>[pg 439]</span> +I took some pains to satisfy myself on these points; but +could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined +we came from some country where provisions had +failed; and that our visit to them was merely for the purpose +of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance +of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat +down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to +purchase, and carry off, as much as we were able, led +them, naturally enough, to such a conclusion. To these +may be added, a circumstance which puzzled them exceedingly, +our having no women with us; together with our +quiet conduct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous +enough to see them stroking the sides, and patting the +bellies of the sailors, (who were certainly much improved +in the sleekness of their looks during our short stay in the +island), and telling them, partly by signs, and partly by +words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would +come again the next bread-fruit season, they should be +better able to supply their wants.<a id="footnotetag144" name="footnotetag144"></a><a href="#footnote144"><sup>2</sup></a> We had now been sixteen +days in the bay; and if our enormous consumption of +hogs and vegetables be considered, it need not be wondered +that they should wish to see us take our leave. It is +very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view +in his enquiries at present, than a desire of making sufficient +preparation for dismissing us with presents suitable to +the respect and kindness with which he had received us. +For, on our telling him we should leave the island on the +next day but one, we observed, that a sort of proclamation +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page440" id="page440"></a>[pg 440]</span> +was immediately made, through the villages, to require the +people to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king +to present to the <i>Orono</i>, on his departure.</p> + +<p>We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the +buffooneries of one of the natives. He held in his hand +an instrument, of the sort described in the last volume; +some bits of sea-weed were tied round his neck, and round +each leg a piece of strong netting, about nine inches deep, +on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loosely fastened +in rows. His style of dancing was entirely burlesque, +and accompanied with strange grimaces, and pantomimical +distortions of the face, which, though at times inexpressibly +ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without much +meaning or expression. Mr Webber thought it worth his +while to make a drawing of this person, as exhibiting a tolerable +specimen of the natives; the manner in which the +<i>maro</i> is tied; the figure of the instrument before mentioned, +and of the ornaments round the legs, which, at other +times, we also saw used by their dancers.</p> + +<p>In the evening, we were again entertained with wrestling +and boxing-matches; and we displayed, in return, the +few fireworks we had left. Nothing could be better calculated +to excite the admiration of these islanders, and to +impress them with an idea of our great superiority, than an +exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already described +the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaee; +and though the present was, in every respect, infinitely +inferior, yet the astonishment of the natives was not +less.</p> + +<p>I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both +ships, had been sent up the country, to cut planks, for the +head rail-work of the Resolution. This was the third day +since their departure; and having received no intelligence +from them, we began to be very anxious for their safety. +We were communicating our apprehensions to old Kaoo, +who appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were +concerting measures with him, for sending after them, +when they arrived all safe. They had been obliged to go +farther into the country than was expected, before they +met with trees fit for their purpose; and it was this circumstance, +together with the badness of the roads, and +the difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained +them so long. They spoke in high terms of their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page441" id="page441"></a>[pg 441]</span> +guides, who both supplied them with provisions, and guarded +their tools with the utmost fidelity.</p> + +<p>The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo +invited Captain Cook and myself to attend him on the 3d, +to the place where Kaoo resided. On our arrival, we found +the ground covered with parcels of cloth; a vast quantity +of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut +husks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces +of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a +little distance from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables, +of every kind, and near them was a large herd of +hogs. At first, we imagined the whole to be intended as a +present for us, till Kaireekeea informed me, that it was a +gift, or tribute, from the people of that district to the king; +and, accordingly, as soon as we were seated, they brought +all the bundles, and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's +feet; spreading out the cloth, and displaying the feathers, +and iron-ware, before him. The king seemed much pleased +with this mark of their duty; and having selected about a +third part of the iron-ware, the same proportion of feathers, +and a few pieces of cloth, these were set aside, by +themselves; and the remainder of the cloth, together with +all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward presented to +Captain Cook and myself. We were astonished at the value +and magnitude of this present, which far exceeded +every thing of the kind we had seen, either at the Friendly +or Society Islands. Boats were immediately sent to carry +them on board; the large hogs were picked out, to be +salted for sea-store; and upward of thirty smaller pigs, and +the vegetables, were divided between the two crews.</p> + +<p>The same day, we quitted the <i>morai</i>, and got the tents +and astronomical instruments on board. The charm of the +<i>taboo</i> was now removed; and we had no sooner left the +place, than the natives rushed in, and searched eagerly +about, in expectation of finding something of value, that +we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the +last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several +came crowding about me, and having made me sit down +by them, began to lament our separation. It was, indeed, +not without difficulty I was able to quit them. And here, +I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, +in which I was principally concerned. Having had the +command of the party on shore, during the whole time w +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page442" id="page442"></a>[pg 442]</span> +were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better +acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to +them, than those whose duty required them to be generally +on board. As I had every reason to be satisfied with +their kindness, in general, so I cannot too often, nor too +particularly, mention the unbounded and constant friendship +of their priests.</p> + +<p>On my part, I spared no endeavours to conciliate their +affections, and gain their esteem; and I had the good fortune +to succeed so far, that, when the time of our departure +was made known, I was strongly solicited to remain +behind, not without offers of the most flattering kind. +When I excused myself, by saying, that Captain Cook +would not give his consent, they proposed, that I should +retire into the mountains, where, they said, they would +conceal me, till after the departure of the ships; and on +my farther assuring them, that the captain would not leave +the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon +Captain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a formal +request, that I might be left behind. The captain, to +avoid giving a positive refusal, to an offer so kindly intended, +told them, that he could not part with me at that time, +but that he should return to the island next year, and +would then endeavour to settle the matter to their satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and sailed +out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, and +were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's +design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee, before he visited +the other islands, in hopes of meeting with a road +better sheltered than the bay we had just left; and in case +of not succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the +south-east part of Mowee, where the natives informed us +we should find an excellent harbour.</p> + +<p>We had calm weather all this and the following day, +which made our progress to the northward very slow. We +were accompanied by a great number of the natives in their +canoes; and Terreeoboo gave a fresh proof of his friendship +to Captain Cook, by a large present of hogs and vegetables, +that was sent after him.</p> + +<p>In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the +land, we made some way to the northward; and in the +morning of the 6th, having passed the westernmost point +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page443" id="page443"></a>[pg 443]</span> +of the island, we found ourselves abreast of a deep bay, +called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes +that this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious +harbour, as we saw, to the north-east, several fine streams +of water, and the whole had the appearance of being well +sheltered. These observations agreeing with the accounts +given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain Cook, and +had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into Britannee, +the pinnace was hoisted out, and the master, with +Britannee for his guide, was sent to examine the bay, whilst +the ships worked up after them.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the +gusts of wind, that blew off the land, were so violent, as to +make it necessary to take in all the sails, and bring-to, under +the mizen stay-sail. All the canoes left us, at the beginning +of the gale; and Mr Bligh, on his return, had the +satisfaction of saving an old woman, and two men, whose +canoe had been overset by the violence of the wind, as +they were endeavouring to gain the shore. Besides these +distressed people, we had a great many women on board, +whom the natives had left behind, in their hurry to shift +for themselves.</p> + +<p>The master reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed +at the only village he saw, on the north side of the bay, +where he was directed to some wells of water; but found +they would by no means answer our purpose; that he afterward +proceeded farther into the bay, which runs inland +to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a very +conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end +of the island; but that, instead of meeting with safe anchorage, +as Britannee had taught him to expect, he found +the shores low and rocky, and a flat bed of coral rocks +running along the coast, and extending upward of a mile +from the land; on the outside of which the depth of water +was twenty fathoms, over a sandy bottom; and that, in +the mean time, Britannee had contrived to slip away, being +afraid of returning, as we imagined, because his information +had not proved true and successful.</p> + +<p>In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we +again made sail; but, about midnight, it blew so violently, +as to split both the fore and main topsails. On the +morning of the 7th, we bent fresh sails, and had fair weather, +and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page444" id="page444"></a>[pg 444]</span> +observation, was 20° 1' N., the W. point of the island bearing +S., 7° E., and the N.W. point N., 38° E. As we were, at +this time, four or five leagues from the shore, and the weather +very unsettled, none of the canoes would venture out, +so that our guests were obliged to remain with us, much, +indeed, to their dissatisfaction; for they were all sea-sick, +and many of them had left young children behind them.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, though the weather was still squally, +we stood in for the land, and being about three leagues +from it, we saw a canoe, with two men paddling towards +us, which we immediately conjectured had been driven off +the shore by the late boisterous weather; and therefore +stopped the ship's way, in order to take them in. These +poor wretches were so entirely exhausted with fatigue, that +had not one of the natives on board, observing their weakness, +jumped into the canoe to their assistance, they would +scarcely have been able to fasten it to the rope we had +thrown out for that purpose. It was with difficulty we got +them up the ship's side, together with a child, about four +years old, which they had lashed under the thwarts of the +canoe, where it had lain with only its head above water. +They told us, they had left the shore the morning before, +and had been from that time without food or water. The +usual precautions were taken in giving them victuals; and +the child being committed to the care of one of the women, +we found them all next morning perfectly recovered.</p> + +<p>At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us +to double reef the topsails, and get down the top-gallant +yards. On the 8th, at day-break, we found that the foremast +had again given way, the fishes, which were put on +the head, in King George's, or Nootka Sound, on the coast +of America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, +as to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of +course, to unstep the mast. In this difficulty, Captain +Cook was for some time in doubt, whether he should run +the chance of meeting with a harbour in the islands to +leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not so +remarkably commodious, in any respect, but that a better +might probably be expected, both for the purpose of repairing +the masts, and for procuring refreshments, of which, +it was imagined, that the neighbourhood of Karakakooa +had been already pretty well drained. On the other hand, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page445" id="page445"></a>[pg 445]</span> +it was considered as too great a risk to leave a place that +was tolerably sheltered, and which, once left, could not be +regained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the +failure of which might, perhaps, have left us without resource.</p> + +<p>We, therefore, continued standing on toward the land, +in order to give the natives an opportunity of releasing +their friends on board from their confinement; and at +noon, being within a mile of the shore, a few canoes came +off to us, but so crowded with people, that there was not +room in them for any of our guests; we therefore hoisted +out the pinnace to carry them on shore; and the master, +who went with them, had directions to examine the south +coasts of the bay for water; but returned, without finding +any.</p> + +<p>The winds being variable, and a current setting strong +to the northward, we made but little progress in our return; +and at eight o'clock in the evening of the 9th, it began +to blow very hard from the south-east, which obliged +us to close reef the topsails; and at two in the morning of +the 10th, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close in +with the breakers, that lie to the northward of the west +point of Owhyhee. We had just room to haul off, and avoid +them, and fired several guns to apprise the Discovery of +the danger.</p> + +<p>In the forenoon the weather was more moderate, and a +few canoes came off to us; from which we learnt that the +late storms had done much mischief, and that several large +canoes had been lost. During the remainder of the day +we kept beating to windward; and, before night, we were +within a mile of the bay; but, not choosing to run on while +it was dark, we stood off and on till day-light next morning, +when we dropt anchor nearly in the same place as before.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote143" name="footnote143"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag143"> (return) </a><p>See description of the <i>morai</i> in the preceding Section.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote144" name="footnote144"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag144"> (return) </a><p>Let the reader keep this intimation in mind, when he comes to judge +of the melancholy transactions which issued in the death of Cook. It is +most clear, that these people were disposed to be on good terms with +their visitors; but that they were equally sensible, on the other hand, of +the burden which so many half-starved guests had imposed on their hospitality. +Even this, however, it would seem, they were willing to bear, +provided only they had had time to make arrangements to do so, in a +manner consistent with their own notions of good cheer. It is perfectly +easy then to understand, that when, instead of the necessary absence of +the strangers till the next season of plenty, there elapsed a few days only, +as we shall find, it was impossible for them to form any other conception +of the nature or object of the visit, than what served to give a very different +direction to their feelings. And yet perhaps we shall be induced +to believe, that all their surprise and uneasiness would have quietly subsided, +if an unfortunate, and, in fact, merely partial altercation had not +excited it beyond its original intensity, and produced a momentary determination +to get rid by any means of such troublesome encroachers.—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page446" id="page446"></a>[pg 446]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION III.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa +Bay.—Theft on Board the Discovery and its Consequences.—The +Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to +quit her.—Captain Cook's Observations on the Occasion.—Attempt +at the Observatory.—The Cutter of the Discovery +stolen.—Measures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery.—Goes +on Shore to invite the King on Board—The King +being stopped by his Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises.—News +arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed by one of +our People.—Ferment on this Occasion.—One of the Chiefs +threatens Captain Cook, and is shot by him.—General Attack +by the Natives.—Death of Captain Cook. Account +of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his Character.</i><a id="footnotetag145" name="footnotetag145"></a><a href="#footnote145"><sup>1</sup></a></blockquote> + +<p>We were employed the whole of the 11th, and part of +the 12th, in getting out the foremast, and sending it with +the carpenters, on shore. Besides the damage which the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page447" id="page447"></a>[pg 447]</span> +head of the mast had sustained, we found the heel exceedingly +rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it, capable +of holding four or five cocoa nuts. It was not, however, +thought necessary to shorten it; and, fortunately, the +logs of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks, +were found fit to replace the sprung part of +the fishes. As these repairs were likely to take up several +days, Mr Bayly and myself got the astronomical apparatus +on shore, and pitched our tents on the <i>morai</i>; having with +us a guard of a corporal and six marines. We renewed our +friendly correspondence with the priests, who, for the greater +security of the workmen and their tools, <i>tabooed</i> the +place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it, as +before. The sail-makers were also sent on shore, to repair +the damages which had taken place in their department +during the late gales. They were lodged in a house adjoining +to the <i>morai</i> that was lent us by the priests. Such were +our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed to the account +of those other transactions with the natives, which +led, by degrees, to the fatal catastrophe of the 14th.</p> + +<p>Upon coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our +reception very different from what it had been on our first +arrival; no shouts, no bustle, no confusion; but a solitary +bay, with only here and there a canoe, stealing close along +the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which had before operated +to so great a degree, might now indeed be supposed +to have ceased; but the hospitable treatment we had invariably +met with, and the friendly footing on which we +parted, gave us some reason to expect, that they would +again have flocked about us with great joy on our return.</p> + +<p>We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion +of this extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at +length relieved by the return of a boat, which had been +sent on shore, and brought us word, that Terreeoboo was +absent, and had left the bay under the <i>taboo</i>. Though this +account appeared very satisfactory to most of us, yet others +were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by subsequent +events, to imagine, that there was something, at +this time, very suspicious in the behaviour of the natives; +and that the interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence +of the king's absence, was only to give him time to +consult with his chiefs in what manner it might be proper +to treat us. Whether these suspicions were well founded, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page448" id="page448"></a>[pg 448]</span> +or the account given by the natives was the truth, we were +never able to ascertain. For, though it is not improbable +that our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent +cause, and the necessity of which we afterward found +it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occasion +some alarm; yet the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, +who, on his supposed arrival, the next morning, came immediately +to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return +of the natives to their former friendly intercourse with +us, are strong proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended +any change of conduct.</p> + +<p>In support of this opinion, I may add the account of another +accident, precisely of the same kind which happened +to us on our first visit, the day before the arrival of the +king. A native had sold a hog on board the Resolution, +and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, passing by +advised the man not to part with the hog, without an advanced +price. For this he was sharply spoken to, and pushed +away; and the <i>taboo</i> being soon after laid on the bay, +we had at first no doubt but that it was in consequence of +the offence given to the chief. Both these accidents serve +to shew, how very difficult it is to draw any certain conclusion +from the actions of people, with whose customs, as +well as language, we are so imperfectly acquainted; at the +same time, some idea may be formed from them, of the +difficulties, at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent, +which those have to encounter, who, in all their transactions +with these strangers, have to steer their course amidst +so much uncertainty, where a trifling error may be attended +with even the most fatal consequences. However true +or false our conjectures may be, things went on in their +usual quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th.</p> + +<p>Toward the evening of that day, the officer, who commanded +the watering-party of the Discovery, came to inform +me, that several chiefs had assembled at the well +near the beach, driving away the natives, whom he had +hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the casks to the +shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought their +behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they meant to +give him some farther disturbance. At his request, therefore, +I sent a marine along with him, but suffered him to +take only his side-arms. In a short time the officer returned, +and, on his acquainting me, that the islanders had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page449" id="page449"></a>[pg 449]</span> +armed themselves with stones, and were grown very tumultuous +I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine, with +his musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their +stones; and, on my speaking to some of the chiefs, the +mob were driven away, and those who chose it were suffered +to assist in filling the casks. Having left things quiet +here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming +on shore in the pinnace. I related to him what had just +passed; and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to +throw stones, or behave insolently, immediately to fire a ball +at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal, +to have the pieces of the sentinels loaded with ball, instead +of small shot.</p> + +<p>Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by +a continued fire of muskets from the Discovery, which we +observed to be directed at a canoe that we saw paddling +toward the shore in great haste, pursued by one of our +small boats. We immediately concluded that the firing +was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered +me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour +to seize the people as they came on shore. Accordingly, +we ran toward the place where we supposed the +canoe would land, but were too late; the people having +quitted it, and made their escape into the country before +our arrival.</p> + +<p>We were at this time ignorant that the goods had been +already restored; and as we thought it probable, from the +circumstances we had at first observed, that they might be +of importance, were unwilling to relinquish our hopes of +recovering them. Having, therefore, enquired of the natives, +which way the people had fled, we followed them till +it was near dark, when, judging ourselves to be about three +miles from the tents, and suspecting that the natives, who +frequently encouraged us in the pursuit, were amusing us +with false information, we thought it in vain to continue +our search any longer, and returned to the beach.</p> + +<p>During our absence, a difference of a more serious and +unpleasant nature had happened. The officer, who had +been sent in the small boat, and was returning on board, +with the goods which had been restored, observing Captain +Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, +thought it his duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn +up on the shore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page450" id="page450"></a>[pg 450]</span> +Pareea, who, arriving at the same moment from on board +the Discovery, claimed his property, with many protestations +of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it up, +and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was +waiting for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea +was knocked down, by a violent blow on the head, +with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the +spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately +attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as +forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and swim +off to a rock, at some distance from the shore. The pinnace +was immediately ransacked by the islanders; and, but for +the timely interposition of Pareea, who seemed to have recovered +from the blow, and forgot it at the same instant, +would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven +away the crowd, he made signs to our people, that they +might come and take possession of the pinnace, and that +he would endeavour to get back the things which had been, +taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in +his canoe, with a midshipman's cap, and some other trifling +articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent concern +at what had happened, asked, if the Orono would kill him, +and whether he would permit him to come on board the +next day? On being assured that he would be well received, +he joined noses (as their custom is) with the officers, +in token of friendship, and paddled over to the village of +Kowrowa.</p> + +<p>When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, +he expressed much uneasiness at it; and, as we were returning +on board, "I am afraid," said he, "that these +people will oblige me to use some violent measures; for," +he added, "they must not be left to imagine that they +have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was +too late to take any steps this evening, he contented himself +with giving orders, that every man and woman on +board should be immediately turned out of the ship. As +soon us this order was executed, I returned on shore; and +our former confidence in the natives being now much +abated, by the events of the day, I posted a double guard +on the <i>morai</i>, with orders to call me, if they saw any men +lurking about the beach. At about eleven o'clock, five +islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of the +<i>morai</i>; they seemed very cautious in approaching us; and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page451" id="page451"></a>[pg 451]</span> +at last, finding themselves discovered, retired out of sight. +About midnight, one of them venturing up close to the observatory, +the sentinel fired over him; on which the men, +fled, and we passed the remainder of the night without farther +disturbance.</p> + +<p>Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Resolution +for the time-keeper; and, in my way, was hailed by +the Discovery, and informed, that their cutter had been stolen, +during the night, from the buoy where it was moored.</p> + +<p>When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, +and Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst +I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, +he interrupted me, with some eagerness, and acquainted +me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and with the +preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been +his usual practice, whenever any thing of consequence was +lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or +some of the principal <i>Erees</i>, on board, and to keep them as +hostages, till it was restored. This method, which had been +always attended with success, he meant to pursue on the +present occasion; and, at the same time, had given orders +to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, +with an intention of seizing and destroying them, if he +could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, +the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, +were stationed across the bay; and, before I left the ship, +some great guns had been fired at two large canoes that +were attempting to make their escape.</p> + +<p>It was between seven and eight o'clock when we quitted +the ship together; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having +Mr Phillips and nine marines with him; and myself in the +small boat. The last orders I received from him, were, to +quiet the minds of the natives on our side of the bay, by +assuring them they should not be hurt; to keep my people +together, and to be on my guard. We then parted; the +captain went toward Kowrowa, where the king resided; +and I proceeded to the beach. My first care, on going +ashore, was to give strict orders to the marines to remain +within the tent; to load their pieces with ball, and not to +quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old +Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them, as well as I +could, the object of the hostile preparations, which had +exceedingly alarmed them. I found that they had already +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page452" id="page452"></a>[pg 452]</span> +heard of the cutter's being stolen; and I assured them, +that though Captain Cook was resolved to recover it, and +to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the +people of the village on our side, need not be under the +smallest apprehension of suffering any evil from us. I desired +the priests to explain this to the people, and to tell +them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and +quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great earnestness, if Terreeoboo +was to be hurt; I assured him he was not; and both, +he and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with +this assurance.</p> + +<p>In the mean time, Captain Cook having called off the +launch, which was stationed at the north point of the bay, +and taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and +landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately +marched into the village, where he was received with +the usual marks of respect; the people prostrating themselves +before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings +of small hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his +design, his next step was to enquire for Terreeoboo, and +the two boys, his sons, who had been his constant guests on +board the Resolution. In a short time, the boys returned, +along with the natives, who had been sent in search of +them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the house +where the king had slept. They found the old man just +awoke from sleep; and, after a short conversation about +the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced +that he was in no wise privy to it, he invited him +to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. +To this proposal the king readily consented, and +immediately got up to accompany him.</p> + +<p>Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being +already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having +advanced near the water-side, when an elderly woman, called +Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of +the king's favourite wives, came after him, and, with many +tears and entreaties, besought him not to go on board. At +the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid +hold of him, and, insisting that he should go no farther, +forced him to sit down. The natives, who were collecting +in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably +been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the appearances +of hostility in the bay, began to throng round +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page453" id="page453"></a>[pg 453]</span> +Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieutenant +of marines, observing that his men were huddled +close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their +arms, if any occasion should require it, proposed to +the captain to draw them up along the rocks, close to the +waters edge; and the crowd readily making way for them +to pass they were drawn up in a line, at the distance of +about thirty yards from the place where the king was sitting.</p> + +<p>All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with +the strongest marks of terror and dejection in his countenance; +Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object +for which he had come on shore, continuing to urge him, +in the most pressing manner, to proceed; whilst, on the +other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow +him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at first +with prayers and entreaties, but afterward had recourse to +force and violence, and insisted on his staying where he +was. Captain Cook, therefore, finding that the alarm had +spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any +longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave +up the point; observing to Mr Phillips, that it would be +impossible to compel him to go on board, without the risk +of killing a great number of the inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Though the enterprise, which had carried Captain Cook +on shore, had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person +did not appear to have been in the least danger, till an +accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. +The boats, which had been stationed across the bay, having +fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, unfortunately +had killed a chief of the first rank. The news +of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, +just as he had left the king, and was walking slowly toward +the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous; +the women and children were immediately sent off; +and the men put on their war-mats, and armed themselves +with spears and stones. One of the natives, having in his +hands a stone, and a long iron pike, (which they call a <i>pahooa</i>,) +came up to the captain, flourishing his weapon, by +way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The +captain desired him to desist; but the man persisting in +his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of +small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page454" id="page454"></a>[pg 454]</span> +were not able to penetrate, this had no other effect than to +irritate and encourage them. Several stones were thrown +at the marines; and one of the <i>Erees</i> attempted to stab Mr +Phillips with his <i>pahooa</i>, but failed in the attempt, and received +from him a blow with the butt end of his musket. +Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with ball, +and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general +attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered +by a discharge of musketry from the marines, and +the people in the boats. The islanders, contrary to the expectations +of every one, stood the fire with great firmness; +and, before the marines had time to reload, they broke in +upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed +was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion.</p> + +<p>Four of the marines were cut off among the rocks in +their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy; +three more were dangerously wounded; and the lieutenant, +who had received a stab between the shoulders with +a <i>pahooa</i>, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man +who had wounded him, just as he was going to repeat his +blow. Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was +seen distinctly, was standing at the water's edge, and calling +out to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. If it be +true, as some of those who were present have imagined, +that the marines and boatmen had fired without his orders, +and that he was desirous of preventing any further bloodshed, +it is not improbable, that his humanity, on this occasion, +proved fatal to him: For it was remarked, that +whilst he faced the natives, none of them had offered him +any violence, but that having turned about to give his orders +to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with +his face into the water. On seeing him fall, the islanders +set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged +on shore, and surrounded, by the enemy, who, snatching +the dagger out of each other's hands, shewed a savage +eagerness to have a share in his destruction.</p> + +<p>Thus fell our great and excellent commander. After a +life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise, his +death, as far as regards himself, cannot be reckoned premature, +since he lived to finish the great work for which +he seems to have been designed, and was rather removed +from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquisition of +glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page455" id="page455"></a>[pg 455]</span> +those who had so long found their general security in his +skill and conduct, and every consolation, under their hardships, +in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary +nor possible for me to describe; much less shall I attempt +to paint the horror with which we were struck, and +the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful +and unexpected a calamity. The reader will not be displeased +to turn from so sad a scene, to the contemplation +of his character and virtues, whilst I am paying my last tribute +to the memory of a dear and honoured friend, in a +short history of his life and public services.</p> + +<p>Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkshire, +on the 27th of October, 1728; and, at an early age, +was put apprentice to a shopkeeper in a neighbouring village. +His natural inclination not having been consulted on +this occasion, he soon quitted the counter from disgust, and +bound himself, for nine years, to the master of a vessel in +the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war, in 1755, he +entered into the king's service, on board the Eagle, at that +time commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir +Hugh Palliser, who soon discovered his merit, and introduced +him on the quarter-deck.</p> + +<p>In the year 1758, we find him master of the Northumberland, +the flag-ship of Lord Colville, who had then the +command of the squadron stationed on the coast of America. +It was here, as I have often heard him say, that, during +a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied himself +to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without +any other assistance than what a few books, and his own +industry, afforded him. At the same time that he thus found +means to cultivate and improve his mind, and to supply +the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in +most of the busy and active scenes of the war in America. +At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed +to his charge the execution of services of the first importance +in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the +attack of Montmorency; conducted the embarkation to +the Heights of Abraham; examined the passage, and laid +buoys for the security of the large ships in proceeding up +the river. The courage and address with which he acquitted +himself in these services, gained him the warm friendship +of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued +to patronize him during the rest of their lives, with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page456" id="page456"></a>[pg 456]</span> +the greatest zeal and affection. At the conclusion of the +war, he was appointed, through the recommendation of +Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Palliser, to survey the Gulf of +St Laurence and the coasts of Newfoundland. In this employment +he continued till the year 1767, when he was fixed +on by Sir Edward Hawke to command an expedition to +the South Seas, for the purpose of observing the transit of +Venus, and prosecuting discoveries in that part of the +globe. From this period, as his services are too well known +to require a recital here, so his reputation has proportionably +advanced to a height too great to be affected by my +panegyrick. Indeed, he appears to have been most eminently +and peculiarly qualified for this species of enterprise. +The earliest habits of his life, the course of his services, +and the constant application of his mind, all conspired +to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of professional +knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few.</p> + +<p>The constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, +and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. +His stomach bore, without difficulty, the coarsest and most +ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance in him was scarcely +a virtue; so great was the indifference with which be submitted +to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his +mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of +his body. His understanding was strong and perspicuous. +His judgment, in whatever related to the services he was +engaged in, quick and sure. His designs were bold and +manly; and both in the conception, and in the mode of +execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. +His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied +with an admirable presence of mind in the moment of danger. +His manners were plain and unaffected. His temper +might, perhaps, have been justly blamed, as subject to hastiness +and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition +the most benevolent and humane.</p> + +<p>Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but +its most distinguishing feature was, that unremitting perseverance +in the pursuit of his object, which was not only superior +to the opposition of dangers, and the pressure of +hardships, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. +During the long and tedious voyages in which he +was engaged, his eagerness and activity were never in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page457" id="page457"></a>[pg 457]</span> +least abated. No incidental temptation could detain him +for a moment; even those intervals of recreation, which +sometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by +us with a longing, that persons, who have experienced the +fatigues of service, will readily excuse, were submitted to +by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not +be employed in making further provision for the more effectual +prosecution of his designs.</p> + +<p>It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in +which these qualities were displayed, during the great and +important enterprises in which he was engaged. I shall +content myself with stating the result of those services, under +the two principal heads to which they maybe referred, +those of geography and navigation, placing each in a separate +and distinct point of view.</p> + +<p>Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from +the labours of a single man, than geography has done from +those of Captain Cook. In his first voyage to the South +Seas, he discovered the Society Islands; determined the +insularity of New Zealand; discovered the straits which separate +the two islands, and are called after his name; and +made a complete survey of both. He afterward explored +the eastern coast of New Holland, hitherto unknown; an +extent of twenty seven degrees of latitude, or upward of +two thousand miles.</p> + +<p>In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem +of a southern continent, having traversed that hemisphere, +between the latitudes of 40° and 70°, in such a manner as +not to leave a possibility of its existence, unless near the +Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During this voyage +be discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in the +Southern Pacific, except New Zealand; the island of Georgia; +and an unknown coast, which he named Sandwich +Land, the <i>Thule</i> of the southern hemisphere; and having +twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the situations of +the old, and made several new discoveries.</p> + +<p>But the voyage we are now relating is distinguished, +above all the rest, by the extent and importance of its discoveries. +Besides several smaller islands in the Southern +Pacific, he discovered, to the north of the equinoctial line, +the group called the Sandwich Islands; which, from their +situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object +of consequence, in the system of European navigation, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page458" id="page458"></a>[pg 458]</span> +than any other discovery in the South Sea. He afterward +explored what had hitherto remained unknown of the western +coast of America; from the latitude of 43° to 70° N., +containing an extent of three thousand five hundred miles; +ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of +Asia and America; passed the straits between them, and +surveyed the coast, on each side, to such a height of northern +latitude, as to demonstrate the impracticability of a +passage in that hemisphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific +Ocean, either by an eastern or a western course. In +short, if we except the sea of Amur, and the Japanese Archipelago, +which still remain imperfectly known to Europeans, +he has completed the hydrography of the habitable +globe.</p> + +<p>As a navigator, his services were not, perhaps, less splendid; +certainly not less important and meritorious. The +method which he discovered, and so successfully pursued, +of preserving the health of seamen, forms a new æra in navigation; +and will transmit his name to future ages amongst +the friends and benefactors of mankind.</p> + +<p>Those who are conversant in naval history need not be +told, at how dear a rate the advantages which have been +sought through the medium of long voyages at sea, have +always been purchased. That dreadful disorder, which is +peculiar to this service, and whose ravages have marked the +tracks of discoverers with circumstances almost too shocking +to relate, must, without exercising an unwarrantable tyranny +over the lives of our seamen, have proved an insuperable +obstacle to the prosecution of such enterprises. It +was reserved for Captain Cook to shew the world, by repeated +trials, that voyages might be protracted to the unusual +length of three, or even four years, in unknown regions, +and under every change and rigour of climate, not +only without affecting the health, but even without diminishing +the probability of life in the smallest degree. The +method he pursued has been fully explained by himself in +a paper which was read before the Royal Society in the +year 1776;<a id="footnotetag146" name="footnotetag146"></a><a href="#footnote146"><sup>2</sup></a> and whatever improvements the experience +of the present age has suggested, are mentioned in their +proper places.</p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page459" id="page459"></a>[pg 459]</span> + +<p>With respect to his professional abilities, I shall leave +them to the judgment of those who are best acquainted +with the nature of the services in which he was engaged. +They will readily acknowledge, that, to have conducted +three expeditions of so much danger and difficulty, of so +unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation, with +uniform and invariable success, must have required not only +a thorough and accurate knowledge of his business, but +a powerful and comprehensive genius, fruitful in resources, +and equally ready in the application of whatever the higher +and inferior calls of the service required.</p> + +<p>Having given the most faithful account I have been able +to collect, both from my own observation and the relations +of others, of the death of my ever-honoured friend, and also +of his character and services, I shall now leave his memory +to the gratitude and admiration of posterity; accepting +with, a melancholy satisfaction, the honour which the +loss of him hath procured me, of seeing my name joined +with his; and of testifying that affection and respect for +his memory, which, whilst he lived, it was no less my inclination, +than my constant study, to shew him.<a id="footnotetag147" name="footnotetag147"></a><a href="#footnote147"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote145" name="footnote145"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag145"> (return) </a><p>Every reader must feel so deeply interested in the subject of this +section, +that he will naturally desire to possess every information as to all +the facts and circumstances in which it was involved. Captain King's +narrative, it may be conceived, is likely to have every claim to implicit +confidence, and to require no additional statement in order to the most +satisfactory conviction of every mind. Such an opinion is only partially +correct; and it is evident, that the latter assertion is not a necessary +inference +from the former. The narrative may be imperfect, though quite +consistent with truth, so far as it goes; and perhaps it cannot be carefully +read, without producing an impression somewhat unfavourable to the +notion of its completeness. This might be pointed out, as we proceeded, +in the usual manner of notes. But a moment's reflection will suggest, that +such interference in a case of the kind would prove destructive of the general +and proper effect of the relation, and at the same time appear unjust +towards the describer. A much better method, and one more likely +to obtain attention, presents itself. That is, to insert the circumstantial +narrative of the whole transaction, which was drawn up by Mr Samwell, +surgeon of the Discovery, and communicated, with the highest approbation +and credit, in the Biographia Britannica, after having been separately +published, by the advice of the editor of that work, for two years, +without experiencing any objection or a single impeachment. This, therefore, +will be given at the end of the section; and will be found so extremely +interesting, as to justify its reception in an entire form. Its +length, however, and minuteness, in addition to reasons already mentioned, +will preclude both room and occasion for any other notice of the subject.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote146" name="footnote146"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag146"> (return) </a><p>Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him on this +occasion.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote147" name="footnote147"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag147"> (return) </a><p>We shall not easily find a more excellent specimen of biographical +eulogium than what Captain King has now given us. It does justice to +his subject—and this, be it remembered, is a merit of the highest kind; +and it does justice to himself, to his own sense of propriety and principle, +which, in the warmth of their friendship, professed admirers are too apt +to sacrifice at the shrine of departed worth. The style is suitable to the +sentiments, possessing a dignified simplicity, and an apparent rectitude +of aim, which it is impossible not to consider, as, in a great degree, resulting +from intimacy with the truly great character whom it so forcibly recommends +to our esteem, and which, therefore, may be held as no mean +illustration of the efficacy of those virtues which so eminently adorned +him. In this respect, then, Cook was peculiarly fortunate, were there no +other record to which posterity might appeal—more fortunate, by much, +indeed, than many, whose lives have been blazoned by vain-glorious historians. +We appeal, therefore, to the feelings of every reader, whether +this very circumstance, so providentially directed towards the perpetuity +of his fame, does not indicate the real superiority of such a man as Cook +over the mass of vulgar conquerors, whom, unfortunately for the world, it +has been so much and so long the fashion to admire? Shall we ever witness +the time, when the wanton destroyers of our species, under whatever +name or trappings they vaunt themselves, shall inherit the abhorrence and +the curses of humanity; and when the only claim to applause that shall be +sanctioned, must be founded, like that of our navigator, on the ability and +the disposition to confer benefits on society? It has often been +regretted, as is said in the Biographia Britannica, that a monument has +not yet +been erected to the memory of Captain Cook in Westminster Abbey. +The uneasiness is not superfluous, in so far as the honour of our country +is concerned, to which, perhaps, his exertions have really contributed +as much as those of almost any individual whose greatness is there embalmed; +but to the reputation of Cook, a monument in Westminster Abbey, +we agree with the work alluded to, would be of little or no consequence. +"His fame stands upon a wider base, and will survive the comparatively +perishing materials of brass, or stone, or marble. The name of +Cook will be held in honour, and recited with applause, so long as the +records of human events shall continue in the earth."—E.</p> + +<p>The following particulars, respecting the death of Captain Cook, are +taken from Mr Samwell's Narrative, as given in the Biographia +Britannica; to which, also, we are indebted for the most minute +and satisfactory account of this illustrious man ever yet published, +and to which, therefore, we refer the more inquisitive reader.</p> + +<p>"On the 6th of February, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the +next night, the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head of her +foremast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was obliged to +return to Keragegooah,<a id="footnotetag148" name="footnotetag148"></a><a href="#footnote148"><sup>1</sup></a> in order to have it repaired; for we could find +no other convenient harbour on the island. The same gale had +occasioned +much distress among some canoes that had paid us a visit from the +shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, was picked up +by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the men, having toiled +hard all night in attempting to reach the land, were so much exhausted +that they could hardly mount the ship's side. When they got upon the +quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and seemed much affected with the +dangerous situation from which they had escaped; but the little child appeared +lively and cheerful. One of the Resolution's boats was also so fortunate +as to save a man and two women, whose canoe had been upset by +the violence of the waves. They were brought on board, and, with the +others, partook of the kindness and humanity of Captain Cook.</p> + +<p>"On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles +of the harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appeared +many of our old acquaintance, who seemed to have come to welcome +us back. Among them was Coo,aha, a priest; he had brought a small pig +and some cocoa nuts in his hand, which, after having chaunted a few sentences, +he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, and hastened +on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendly ceremony before +Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day, we could not gain the +harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first rank, and nearly related to +Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the Discovery. His name was Ka,mea,mea: +He was dressed in a very rich feathered cloak, which he seemed to +have brought for sale, but would part with it for nothing except iron daggers. +These the chiefs, some time before our departure, had preferred to +every other article; for, having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and +other tools, they began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea +procured nine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, +he and his attendants slept on board that night.</p> + +<p>"In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again in +Keragegooah bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing the +Resolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians, because +there were but few in the bay. On our departure, those belonging +to other parts had repaired to their several habitations, and were again to +collect from various quarters before we could expect to be surrounded by +such multitudes as we had once seen in that harbour. In the afternoon, I +walked about a mile into the country to visit an Indian friend, who had, +a few days before, come near twenty miles, in a small canoe, to see me, +while the ship lay becalmed. As the canoe had not left us long before a +gale of wind came on, I was alarmed for the consequence; however, I had +the pleasure to find that my friend had escaped unhurt, though not without +some difficulties. I take notice of this short excursion, merely because +it afforded me an opportunity of observing that there appeared no change +in the disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that +could induce me to think that they were displeased with our return, or +jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, that abundant +good-nature, which had always characterised them, seemed still to +glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance.<a id="footnotetag149" name="footnotetag149"></a><a href="#footnote149"><sup>2</sup></a> The next +day, +February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo by the chiefs; a solemnity, +it seems, that was requisite to be observed, before Kariopoo, the +king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, after his return. He waited upon +him the same day, on board the Resolution, attended by a large train, +some of which bore the presents designed for Captain Cook; who received +him in his usual friendly manner, and gave him several articles in return. +This amicable ceremony being settled, the taboo was dissolved; +matters went on in the usual train; and the next day, February the 13th, +we were visited by the natives in great numbers. The Resolution's mast +was landed, and the astronomical observatories erected on their former +situation. I landed, with another gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, +where we found a great number of canoes, just arrived from different parts +of the island, and the Indians busy in erecting temporary huts on the +beach for their residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on +board the Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected in +stealing the armourer's tongs from the forge; for which he received a +pretty severe flogging, and was sent out from the ship. Notwithstanding +the example made of this man, in the afternoon another had the audacity +to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with which he +jumped overboard, and swam for the shore. The master and a midshipman +were instantly dispatched after him in the small cutter. The Indian, +seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymen took him on +board, and paddled as swift as they could towards the shore; we fired several +muskets at them, but to no effect, for they soon got out of the reach +of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, who was at that time on board the +Discovery, understanding what had happened, immediately went ashore, +promising to bring back the stolen goods. Our boat was so far distanced, +in chacing the canoe which had taken the thief on board, that he had time +to make his escape into the country. Captain Cook, who was then ashore, +endeavoured to intercept his landing; but it seems that he was led out of +the way by some of the natives, who had officiously intruded themselves +as guides. As the master was approaching near the landing-place, he was +met by some of the Indians in a canoe. They had brought back the tongs +and chisel, together with another article that we had not missed, which +happened to be the lid of the water-cask. Having recovered these things, +he was returning on board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, +with five men in her, who, without any orders, had come from the observatories +to his assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced, he thought +himself strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or the canoe +which +took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he turned back; +and having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparing to launch it +into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and insisted upon his +not taking it away, as it was his property. The officer not regarding him, +the chief seized upon him, pinioned his arms behind, and held him by the +hair of his head; on which one of the sailors struck him with an oar. +Pareah instantly quitted the officer, snatched the oar out of the man's +hand, and snapped it in two across his knee. At length the multitude began +to attack our people with stones. They made some resistance, but +were soon overpowered, and obliged to swim for safety to the small cutter, +which lay farther out than the pinnace. The officers, not being expert +swimmers, retreated to a small rock in the water, where they were closely +pursued by the Indians. One man darted a broken oar at the master, +but his foot slipping at the time, he missed him, which fortunately saved +that officer's life. At last, Pareah interfered, and put an end to their +violence. +The gentlemen, knowing that his presence was their only defence +against the fury of the natives, entreated him to stay with them till they +could get off in the boats; but that he refused, and left them. The master +went to seek assistance from the party at the observatories; but the +midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. He was very rudely treated +by the mob, who plundered the boat of every thing that was loose on +board, and then began to knock her to pieces for the sake of the iron +work; but Pareah fortunately returned in time to prevent her destruction. +He had met the other gentleman on his way to the observatories, +and, suspecting his errand, had forced him to return. He dispersed the +crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to return on board. They represented +that all their oars had been taken out of the boat; on which he +brought some of them back, and the gentlemen were glad to get off, without +farther molestation. They had not proceeded far, before they were +overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe. He delivered the midshipman's cap, +which had been taken from him in the scuffle, joined noses with them, in +token of reconciliation, and was anxious to know if Captain Cook would +kill him for what had happened. They assured him of the contrary, and +made signs of friendship to him in return. He then left them, and paddled +over to the town of Kavaroah, and that was the last time we ever saw +him. Captain Cook returned on board soon after, much displeased with the +whole of this disagreeable business; and the same night sent a lieutenant +on board the Discovery to learn the particulars of it, as it had originated +in that ship. It was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusion +attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on +terms particularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened, +with a hog to sell on board the Discovery; it was of an extraordinary +large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger, of an unusual +length. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. Captain +Clerke not having one of that length, told him, he would get one made for +him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the hog, and went +ashore without making any stay with us. It will not be altogether foreign +to the subject, to mention a circumstance that happened to-day on +board +the Resolution. An Indian chief asked Captain Cook at his table if he +was a <i>Tata Toa</i>, which mean's a fighting man, or a soldier. Being answered +in the affirmative, he desired to see his wounds; Captain Cook held +out his right-hand, which had a scar upon it, dividing the thumb from the +finger the whole length of the metacarpal bones. The Indian being thus +convinced of his being a Toa, put the same question to another gentleman +present, but he happened to have none of those distinguishing marks; the +chief then said, that he himself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some +wounds he had received in battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories +were disturbed, during the night, with shrill and melancholy +sounds, issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the +lamentations +of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have +filled their minds with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands; +but, be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual +awe and terror.</p> + +<p>"To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night, +took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy of +one of her anchors; they had carried her off so quietly, that we did not +miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain Clerke +lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook, to acquaint him with the accident; +he returned on board, with orders for the launch and small cutter +to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and lie off the east +point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes that might attempt to get +out, and, if he found it necessary, to fire upon them. At the same time, +the third lieutenant of the Resolution, with the launch and small cutter, +was sent on the same service, to the opposite point of the bay; and the +master was dispatched in the large cutter in pursuit of a double canoe, already +under sail, making the best of her way out of the harbour. He soon +came up with her, and by firing a few muskets, drove her on shore, and +the Indians left her; this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who +bore the title of Orono. He was on board himself, and it would have +been fortunate if our people had secured him, for his person was held as +sacred as that of the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing +to go ashore himself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person +of Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another +part of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual +step that could be taken on the present occasion for the recovery of the +boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similar cases, at +other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended with the desired +success; in fact, it would be difficult to point out any other mode of +proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain the object in view.<a id="footnotetag150" name="footnotetag150"></a><a href="#footnote150"><sup>3</sup></a> We +had reason to suppose, that the king and his attendants had fled +when the +alarm was first given; in that case, it was Captain Cook's intention to secure +the large canoes which were hauled up on the beach. He left the ship +about seven o'clock, attended by the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, +corporal, +and seven private men; the pinnace's crew were also armed, and +under the command of Mr Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, +Captain Cook ordered the launch to leave her station at the west point of +the bay, in order to assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy +of notice; for it clearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting +with resistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparation +for the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, +that from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not one, +beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutely requisite; +so little did his conduct on the occasion bear the marks of rashness, or a +precipitate self-confidence! He landed with the marines at the upper end +of the town of Kavaroah; the Indians immediately flocked round as usual, +and shewed him the customary marks of respect, by prostrating themselves +before him. There were no signs of hostilities, or much alarm among +them. Captain Cook, however, did not seem willing to trust to appearances, +but was particularly attentive to the disposition of the marines, and +to have them kept clear of the crowd. He first enquired for the king's +sons, two youths who were much attached to him, and generally his companions +on board. Messengers being sent for them, they soon came to +him, and informing him that their father was asleep at a house not far from +them, he accompanied them thither, and took the marines along with +them. As he passed along, the natives every where prostrated themselves +before him, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always +shewn to his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom +was Kanynah, and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in +order, according to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intention +in coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs or +other provisions; he told them that he did not, and that his business was +to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some of the +Indians to go in and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without to speak +with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of returning +any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red cloth to him, +which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house; he therefore +desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. The lieutenant found the +old man just awaked from sleep, and seemingly alarmed at the message; +but he came out without hesitation. Captain Cook took him by the hand, +and in a friendly manner asked him to go on board, to which he very readily +consented. Thus far matters appeared in a favourable train, and the +natives did not seem much alarmed or apprehensive of hostility on our +side, at which Captain Cook expressed himself a little surprised, saying, +that as the inhabitants of that town appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, +he should not molest them, but that he must get the king on board. +Kariopoo sat down before his door, and was surrounded by a great crowd; +Kanynah and his brother were both very active in keeping order among +them. In a little time, however, the Indians were observed arming +themselves +with long spears, clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, +which they use as armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became +more alarming, on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side +of the bay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed +by one of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had also +delivered +this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, the women +who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, and conversing +familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and a confused murmur +spread through the crowd. An old priest came to Captain Cook, with a +cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to him as a present, at the same +time singing very loud. He was often desired to be silent, but in vain; he +continued importunate and troublesome, and there was no such thing as +getting rid of him or his noise; it seemed as if he meant to divert their +attention from his countrymen, who were growing more tumultuous, and +arming themselves in every quarter. Captain Cook being at the same +time surrounded by a great crowd, thought his situation rather hazardous; +he therefore ordered the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to +the water-side, where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore; the +Indians readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt +them. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards; +Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied +him very willingly; he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several +chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage +noise. Keowa, the younger son, went directly into the pinnace, expecting +his father to follow, but just as he arrived at the water-side, his wife +threw her arms about his neck, and, with the assistance of two chiefs, +forced him to sit down by the side of a double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated +with them, but to no purpose; they would not suffer the king +to proceed, telling him, that he would be put to death if he went on board +the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct seemed entirely resigned to the will +of others, hung down his head, and appeared much distressed.</p> + +<p>"While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, of the +name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger, partly concealed +under his cloak, seemingly, with the intention of stabbing Captain +Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latter proposed to fire at him, +but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho closing upon them, obliged +the officer to strike him with his piece, which made him retire. Another +Indian laid hold of the serjeant's musquet, and endeavoured to wrench it +from him, but was prevented by the lieutenant's making a blow at him. +Captain Cook, seeing the tumult increase, and the Indians growing more +daring and resolute, observed, that if he were to take the king off by force, +he could not do it without sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He +then paused a little, and was on the point of giving his orders to reimbark, +when a man threw a stone at him, which he returned with a discharge of +small shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded.) The +man having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt; he +brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who +being still +unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with ball, knocked him +down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with the most forward +of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He had given up all thoughts +of getting the king on board, as it appeared impracticable; and his care +was then only to act on the defensive, and to secure a safe embarkation for +his small party, which was closely pressed by a body of several thousand +people. Keowa, the king's son, who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on +hearing the first fire, was, at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for +even at that time, Mr Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend +that Captain Cook's person was in any danger; otherwise he would +have detained the prince, which, no doubt, would have been a great check +on the Indians. One man was observed, behind a double canoe, in the +action of darting his spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him +in his own defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward +in the tumult; the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he +aimed at, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By +this time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; they +fell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on by those +behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of stones among +the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it with a general +discharge of musquetry, which was instantly followed by a fire from the +boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his astonishment; he +waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease firing, and to come +nearer in to receive the marines. Mr Roberts immediately brought the +pinnace as close to the shore as he could, without grounding, notwithstanding +the showers of stones that fell among the people; but ——, the +lieutenant, who commanded in the launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance +of Captain Cook, withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment +that every thing seems to have depended upon the timely exertions of +those in the boats. By his own account, he mistook the signal; but be +that as it may, this circumstance appears to me to have decided the fatal +turn of the affair, and to have removed every chance which remained with +Captain Cook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marines +out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the +pinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, in +a great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what assistance +they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that he +seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the assistance of +both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For, notwithstanding +that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from the situation to which they +removed in that boat, the fatal confusion which ensued on her being withdrawn, +to say the least of it, must have prevented the full effect, that the +prompt co-operation of the two boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, +must have had, towards the preservation of himself and his people.<a id="footnotetag151" name="footnotetag151"></a><a href="#footnote151"><sup>4</sup></a> At +that time, it was to the boats alone, that Captain Cook had to look +for his +safety; for, when the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, +and forced them into the water, where four of them were killed; their +lieutenant was wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the +pinnace. Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock; +he was observed making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the +back of his head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his musquet +under the other arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution +and timidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed. +At last he advanced upon him unawares, and with a large club,<a id="footnotetag152" name="footnotetag152"></a><a href="#footnote152"><sup>5</sup></a> or +common stake, gave him a blow on the back of the head, and then precipitately +retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain Cook; +he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand and one knee, and dropped +his musquet. As he was rising, and before he could recover his feet, +another Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger. +He then fell into a bite of water about knee deep, where others crowded +upon him, and endeavoured to keep him under: but struggling very +strongly with them, he got his head up, and casting his look towards the +pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. Though the boat was not above +five or six yards distant from him, yet from the crowded and confused +state of the crew, it seems, it was not in their power to save him. The +Indians got him under again, but in deeper water; he was, however, able +to get his head up once more, and being almost spent in the struggle, he +naturally turned to the rock, and was endeavouring to support himself by +it, when a savage gave him a blow with a club, and he was seen alive no +more. They hauled him up lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to +take a savage pleasure in using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching +the daggers out of each other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction +of piercing the fallen victim of their barbarous rage.</p> + +<p>"I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on this occasion, +or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough to say, that no +man was ever more beloved or admired; and it is truly painful to reflect, +that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want of being properly +supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as having fallen to his lot, +who had ever been conspicuous for his care of those under his command, +and who seemed, to the last, to pay as much attention to their +preservation, as to that of his own life. If any thing could have added to +the +shame and indignation universally felt on this occasion, it was to find, that +his remains had been deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although +they might have been brought off. It appears, from the information of +four or five midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of the +fatal business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by the Indians, +who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and dispersed +through the town; so that there seemed no great obstacle to prevent the +recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenant returned on board +without making the attempt. It is unnecessary to dwell longer on this +painful subject, and to relate the complaints and censures that fell on the +conduct of the lieutenant. It will be sufficient to observe, that they were +so loud as to oblige Captain Clerke publicly to notice them, and to take +the depositions of his accusers down in writing. The captain's bad state +of health and approaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy +these papers a short time before his death. It is a painful task, to +be obliged to notice circumstances, which seem to reflect upon the character +of any man. A strict regard to truth, however, compelled me to +the insertion of these facts, which I have offered merely as facts, without +presuming to connect with them any comment of my own; esteeming it +the part of a faithful historian, 'to extenuate nothing, nor set down aught +in malice.' The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock in the morning, +about an hour after Captain Cook landed. It did not seem, that the king, +or his sons, were witnesses to it; but it is supposed that they withdrew +in the midst of the tumult. The principal actors were the other chiefs, +many of them the king's relations and attendants; the man who stabbed +him with the dagger was called Nooah. I happened to be the only one +who recollected his person from having on a former occasion mentioned +his name in the journal I kept. I was induced to take particular notice +of him, more from his personal appearance than any other consideration, +though he was of high rank, and a near relation of the king; he was stout +and tall, with a fierce look and demeanour, and one who united in his figure +the two qualities of strength and agility, in a greater degree, than +ever I remembered to have seen before in any other man. His age might +be about thirty, and by the white scurf on his skin, and his sore eyes, he +appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. He was a constant companion of +the king, with whom I first saw him, when he paid a visit to Captain +Clerke. The chief who first struck Captain Cook with the club, was called +Karimano, craha, but I did not know him by his name. These circumstances +I learnt of honest Kaireekea, the priest, who added, that they were +both held in great esteem on account of that action; neither of them came +near us afterwards. When the boats left the shore, the Indians carried +away the dead body of Captain Cook and those of the marines, to the rising +ground, at the back of the town, where we could plainly see them +with our glasses from the ships. This most melancholy accident appears +to have been altogether unexpected and unforeseen, as well on the part +of the natives as ourselves. I never saw sufficient reason to induce me +to believe, that there was any thing of design, or a pre-concerted plan, on +their side, or that they purposely sought to quarrel with us; +thieving, +which gave rise to the whole, they were equally guilty of, in our first and +second visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened +between us; their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but sometimes +slightly punished; the boat, which they at last ventured to take away, was +an object of no small magnitude to people in our situation, who could not +possibly replace her, and therefore not slightly to be given up. We had +no other chance of recovering her, but by getting the person of the king +into our possession; on our attempting to do that, the natives became +alarmed for his safety, and naturally opposed those whom they deemed +his enemies. In the sudden conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable +misfortune of losing our excellent commander, in the manner already related. +It is in this light the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely +accidental, and not in the least owing to any previous offence received, or +jealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives. Pareah seems to +have been the principal instrument in bringing about this fatal disaster. +We learnt afterwards, that it was he who had employed some people to +steal the boat; the king did not seem to be privy to it, or even apprized +of what had happened, till Captain Cook landed. It was generally remarked, +that, at first, the Indians shewed great resolution in facing our +fire-arms; but it was entirely owing to ignorance of their effect. They +thought that their thick mats would defend them from a ball, as well as +from a stone; but being soon convinced of their error, yet still at a loss +to account how such execution was done among them, they had recourse +to a stratagem, which, though it answered no other purpose, served to +shew their ingenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of +the musquets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract their +effect, and therefore, very sagaciously, dipped their mats, or armour, in the +sea, just as they came on to face our people; but finding this last resource +to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach entirely clear. It +was an object they never neglected, even at the greatest hazard, to carry +off their slain; a custom, probably owing to the barbarity with which +they treat the dead body of an enemy, and the trophies they make of his +bones."<a id="footnotetag153" name="footnotetag153"></a><a href="#footnote153"><sup>6</sup></a></p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote148" name="footnote148"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag148"> (return) </a><p>It is proper to take notice, that Mr Samwell spells the names of +several +persons and places differently from what is done in the history of the voyage. +For instance, Karakakooa, he calls Ke,rag,e,goo,ah; Terreeoboo, Kariopoo; +Kowrowa, Kavaroah; Kaneecabareea, Kaneekapo berei; Mahai +mahai, Ka,mea,mea.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote149" name="footnote149"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag149"> (return) </a><p>Mr King relates, that our voyagers, upon coming to anchor, were +surprised +to find their reception very different from what it had been on their +first arrival. He acknowledges, however, that the unsuspicious conduct of +Terreeoboo, who, the next morning, came immediately to visit Captain Cook, +and the consequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourse +with the English, are strong proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended +any change of conduct. "Things," says Mr King, "went on in their +usual quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th."</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote150" name="footnote150"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag150"> (return) </a><p>Mr King acknowledges, that he was always fearful, that the degree +of +confidence which Captain Cook had acquired from his long and uninterrupted +course of success, in his transactions with the natives of these seas, might, +at some unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote151" name="footnote151"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag151"> (return) </a><p>I have been informed, on the best authority, that, in the opinion +of Captain +Philips, who commanded the marines, and whose judgment must be of the +greatest weight, it is extremely doubtful whether any thing could +successfully +have been done to preserve the life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had +been committed on the part of the launch.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote152" name="footnote152"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag152"> (return) </a><p>I have heard one of the gentlemen who were present say, that the +first +injury he received was from a dagger, as it is represented in the voyage; but, +from the account of many others, who were also eye-witnesses, I am confident, +in saying, that he was first struck with a club. I was afterwards confirmed +in this, by Kaireekea, the priest, who particularly mentioned the +name of the man who gave him the blow, as well as that of the chief, who +afterwards struck him with the dagger. This is a point not worth disputing +about; I mention it, as being solicitous to be accurate in this account, even +in circumstances, of themselves, not very material.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote153" name="footnote153"></a><b>Footnote 6:</b><a href="#footnotetag153"> (return) </a><p>Samwell's Narrative of the Death of Captain James Cook, p. 2-20.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page460" id="page460"></a>[pg 460]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION IV.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of Captain +Cook.—Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.—Dangerous +Situation of the Party at the Morai.—Bravery +of one of the Natives.—Consultation respecting future +Measures.—Demand of the Body of Captain Cook.—Evasive +and insidious Conduct of Koah and the Chiefs.—Insolent +Behaviour of the Natives.—Promotion of Officers.—Arrival +of two Priests with Part of the Body.—Extraordinary +Behaviour of two Boys.—Burning of the Village of +Kakooa.—Unfortunate Destruction of the Dwellings of the +Priests.—Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure +from Karakakooa Bay.</i></blockquote> + +<p>It has been already stated, that four of the marines, who +attended Captain Cook, were killed by the islanders on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page461" id="page461"></a>[pg 461]</span> +spot. The rest, with Mr Phillips, their lieutenant, threw +themselves into the water, and escaped, under cover of a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page462" id="page462"></a>[pgs 462-3]</span> +smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, a remarkable +instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, +was shewn by that officer; for he had scarcely got into the +boat, when, seeing one of the marines, who was a bad +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page464" id="page464"></a>[pg 464]</span> +swimmer, struggling in the water, and in danger of being taken +by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the sea to his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page465" id="page465"></a>[pg 465]</span> +assistance, though much wounded himself; and, after receiving +a blow on the head from a stone, which had +nearly sent him to the bottom, be caught the man by the hair, +and brought him safe off.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page466" id="page466"></a>[pg 466]</span></p> + +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page467" id="page467"></a>[pg 467]</span> +<p>Our people continued for some time to keep up a +constant fire from the boats (which, during the whole transaction, +were not more than twenty yards from the land,) in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page468" id="page468"></a>[pg 468]</span> +order to afford their unfortunate companions, if any of +them should still remain alive, an opportunity of escaping. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page469" id="page469"></a>[pg 469]</span> +These efforts, seconded by a few guns that were fired at +the same time from the Resolution, having forced the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page470" id="page470"></a>[pg 470]</span> +natives at last to retire, a small boat, manned by five of our +young midshipmen, pulled toward the shore, where they +saw the bodies, without any signs of life, lying on the +ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them +off, with so small a force, and their ammunition being nearly +expended, they returned to the ships, leaving them in +possession of the islanders, together with ten stands of +arms.</p> + +<p>As soon as the general consternation, which the news of +this calamity occasioned throughout both crews, had a +little subsided, their attention was called to our party at the +<i>morai</i>, where the mast and sails were on shore, with a guard +of only six marines. It is impossible for me to describe the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page471" id="page471"></a>[pg 471]</span> +emotions of my own mind, during the time these transactions +had been carrying on at the other side of the bay. +Being at the distance of only a short mile from the village +of Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense crowd +collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before +landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could +perceive some extraordinary bustle and agitation in the +multitude. We afterwards saw the natives flying, the boats +retire from the shore, and passing and repassing, in great +stillness, between the ships. I must confess, that my heart +soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was +concerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed, by appearances +both new and threatening. But, besides this, I knew +that a long and uninterrupted course of success, in his +transactions with the natives of these seas, had given the +captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful +might, at some unlucky moment, put him too much off his +guard; and I now saw all the dangers to which that confidence +might lead, without receiving much consolation +from considering the experience that had given rise to it.<a id="footnotetag154" name="footnotetag154"></a><a href="#footnote154"><sup>1</sup></a></p> + +<p>My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was, to assure +the people, who had assembled in considerable numbers +round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed +equally at a loss with ourselves how to account for what +they had seen and heard, that they should not be molested; +and that, at all events, I was desirous of continuing +on peaceable terms with them. We remained in this posture +till the boats had returned on board, when Captain +Clerke, observing through his telescope, that we were surrounded +by the natives, and apprehending they meant to +attack us, ordered two four-pounders to be fired at them. +Fortunately, these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, +and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their +power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, +under which a party of them were sitting; and the +other shivered a rock that stood in an exact line with them. +As I had just before given them the strongest assurances of +their safety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hostility; +and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page472" id="page472"></a>[pg 472]</span> +dispatched a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at present, +I was on the most friendly terms with the natives; +and that, if occasion should hereafter arise for altering my +conduct toward them, I would hoist a jack, as a signal for +him to afford us all the assistance in his power.</p> + +<p>We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience; +and, after remaining a quarter of an hour under +the most torturing anxiety and suspense, our fears were at +length confirmed by the arrival of Mr Bligh, with orders +to strike the tents as quickly as possible, and to send the +sails that were repairing on board. Just at the same moment, +our friend Kaireekeea, having also received intelligence +of the death of Captain Cook, from a native who +had arrived from the other side of the bay, came to me, +with great sorrow and dejection in his countenance, to enquire +if it was true.</p> + +<p>Our situation was, at this time, extremely critical and +important; not only our own lives, but the event of the +expedition, and the return of at least one of the ships, being +involved in the same common danger. We had the +mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, +on shore, under the protection of only six marines: Their +loss would have been irreparable; and though the natives +had not as yet shewn the smallest disposition to molest us, +yet it was impossible to answer for the alteration which the +news of the transaction at Kowrowa might produce. I +therefore thought it prudent to dissemble my belief of the +death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage +the report; lest either the fear of our resentment, +or the successful example of their countrymen, might lead +them to seize the favourable opportunity, which at this +time offered itself, of giving us a second blow. At the same +time I advised him to bring old Kaoo and the rest of the +priests, into a large house that was close to the <i>morai</i>; partly +out of regard to their safety, in case it should have been +found necessary to proceed to extremities; and, partly, to +have him near us, in order to make use of his authority +with the people, if it could be instrumental in preserving +peace.</p> + +<p>Having placed the marines on the top of the <i>morai</i>, which +formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the command +with Mr Bligh, giving him the most positive directions +to act entirely on the defensive, I went on board the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page473" id="page473"></a>[pg 473]</span> +Discovery, in order to represent to Captain Clerke the dangerous +situation of our affairs. As soon as I quitted the spot, +the natives began to annoy our people with stones; and I +had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of +the marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where +I found things growing every moment more alarming. The +natives were arming, and putting on their mats; and their +numbers increased very fast. I could also perceive several +large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff which separates +the village of Kakooa from the north side of the +bay, where the village of Kowrowa is situated.</p> + +<p>They began at first to attack us with stones, from behind +the walls of their enclosures; and finding no resistance on +our part, they soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows, +having crept along the beach, under cover of the +rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the +<i>morai</i>, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the +side next the sea, which was its only accessible part; and +were not dislodged, till after they had stood a considerable +number of shot, and seen one of their party fall.</p> + +<p>The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be +particularly mentioned; for, having returned to carry off +his companion, amidst the fire of our whole party, a wound +which he received made him quit the body and retire; but, +in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being again +wounded, he was obliged a second time to retreat. At this +moment I arrived at the <i>morai</i>, and saw him return the +third time, bleeding and faint; and being informed of what +had happened, I forbade the soldiers to fire, and he was +suffered to carry off his friend; which he was just able to +perform, and then fell down himself, and expired.</p> + +<p>About this time a strong reinforcement from both ships +having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls; +which, giving me access to our friendly priests, I sent one +of them to endeavour to bring their countrymen to some +terms, and to propose to them, that if they would desist +from throwing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. +This truce was agreed to; and we were suffered to launch +the mast, and carry off the sails, and our astronomical apparatus, +unmolested. As soon as we had quitted the <i>morai</i>, +they took possession of it, and some of them threw a few +stones, but without doing us any mischief.</p> + +<p>It was half an hour past eleven o'clock when I got on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page474" id="page474"></a>[pg 474]</span> +board the Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had +been adopted for our future proceedings. The restitution +of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook, +were the objects which, on all hands, we agreed to insist +on; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps should +be taken, in case the demand of them was not immediately +complied with.</p> + +<p>Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured +friend, may be suspected to have had some share in +this opinion, yet there were certainly other reasons, and +those of the most serious kind, that had considerable weight +with me. The confidence which their success in killing our +chief, and forcing us to quit the shore, must naturally have +inspired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they +had obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no +doubt, encourage them to make some further dangerous attempts; +and the more especially, as they had little reason, +from what they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of +our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of +every one, this sort of weapon had produced no signs of +terror in them. On our side, such was the condition of the +ships, and the state of discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous +attack been made on us in the night, it would have +been impossible to answer for the consequences.</p> + +<p>In these apprehensions, I was supported by the opinion +of most of the officers on board; and nothing seemed to +me so likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt, +as the appearance of our being inclined to an accommodation, +which they could only attribute to weakness or fear.</p> + +<p>In favour of more conciliatory measures, it was justly urged, +that the mischief was done, and irreparable; that the +natives had a strong claim to our regard, on account of +their former friendship and kindness; and the more especially, +as the late melancholy accident did not appear to +have arisen from any premeditated design; that, on the +part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness +to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having +actually sent his two sons into the boat, must free him from +the smallest degree of suspicion; that the conduct of his +women and the <i>Erees</i> might easily be accounted for, from +the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with +which Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations +in the bay; appearances so different from the terms +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page475" id="page475"></a>[pg 475]</span> +of friendship and confidence, in which both parties had hitherto +lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently +with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some +reason to imagine would be made, to carry off their king +by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people +full of affection and attachment to their chiefs.</p> + +<p>To these motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature +were added; that we were in want of water and other +refreshments; that our foremast would require six or eight +days work before it could be stepped; that the spring was +advancing apace; and that the speedy prosecution of our +next northern expedition ought now to be our sole object; +that, therefore, to engage in a vindictive contest with the +inhabitants, might not only lay us under the imputation of +unnecessary cruelty, but would occasion an unavoidable delay +in the equipment of the ships.</p> + +<p>In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and +though I was convinced, that an early display of vigorous +resentment would more effectually have answered every object +both of prudence and humanity, I was not sorry that +the measures I had recommended were rejected. For, +though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and +their subsequent opposition to our necessary operations on +shore, arising, I have no doubt, from a misconstruction of +our lenity, compelled us at last to have recourse to violence +in our own defence; yet I am not so sure that the circumstances +of the case would, in the opinion of the world, have +justified the use of force on our part in the first instance. +Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious; and has this +additional objection to it, that the severity of a preventive +course, when it best succeeds, leaves its expediency the +least apparent.</p> + +<p>During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting +some plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourse +of natives still kept possession of the shore; and some of +them came off in canoes, and had the boldness to approach, +within pistol-shot of the ships, and to insult us by various +marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty +we could restrain the sailors from the use of their +arms on these occasions; but as pacific measures had been, +resolved on, the canoes were suffered to return unmolested. +In pursuance of this plan, it was determined, that I should +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page476" id="page476"></a>[pg 476]</span> +proceed toward the shore, with the boats of both ships, well +manned and armed; with a view to bring the natives to a +parley, and, if possible, to obtain a conference with some +of the chiefs.</p> + +<p>If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, +and particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten +them with our vengeance in case of a refusal; but by no +means to fire, unless attacked; and not to land on any account +whatever. These orders were delivered to me before +the whole party, and in the most positive manner.</p> + +<p>I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon; and, +as we approached the shore, I perceived every indication +of a hostile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in +motion; the women and children retiring; the men putting +on their war-mats, and arming themselves with long +spears and daggers. We also observed, that since the +morning they had thrown up stone breast-works along the +beach where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation +of an attack at that place; and as soon as we were +within reach, they began to throw stones at us with slings, +but without doing any mischief. Concluding, therefore, +that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in +vain, unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence, +I ordered the armed boats to stop, and went on in +the small boat alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, +by a general cry of joy from the natives, I had the satisfaction +to find was instantly understood. The women immediately +returned from the side of the hill, whither they had +retired; the men threw off their mats, and all sat down together +by the water-side, extending their arms, and inviting +me to come on shore.</p> + +<p>Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly +disposition, yet I could not help entertaining some suspicions +of its sincerity. But when I saw Koah, with a boldness +and assurance altogether unaccountable, swimming off +toward the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought it +necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore +received him into the boat, though armed; a circumstance +which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess +I had long harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. +The priests had always told us that he was of a malicious +disposition, and no friend of ours; and the repeated detections +of his fraud and treachery had convinced us of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page477" id="page477"></a>[pg 477]</span> +truth of their representations. Add to all this, the shocking +transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting +a principal part, made me feel the utmost horror at +finding myself so near him; and as he came up to me, with +feigned tears, and embraced me, I was so distrustful of his +intentions, that I could not help taking hold of the point +of the <i>pahooah</i>, which he held in his hand, and turning it +from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body +of Captain Cook; and to declare war against them, unless +it was instantly restored. He assured me this should be +done as soon as possible; and that he would go himself for +that purpose; and, after begging of me a piece of iron, +with as much assurance as if nothing extraordinary had +happened, he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore, calling +out to his countrymen that we were all friends again.</p> + +<p>We waited near an hour, with great anxiety, for his return; +during which time the rest of the boats had approached +so near the shore as to enter into conversation +with a party of the natives, at some distance from us; by +whom they were plainly given to understand, that the body +had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of +this circumstance I was not informed till our return to the +ships.</p> + +<p>I began now to express some impatience at Koah's delay; +upon which the chiefs pressed me to come on shore; +assuring me, that if I would go myself to Terreeoboo, the +body would certainly be restored to me. When they found +they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under +a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to +decoy our boat among some rocks, where they would have +had it in their power to cut us off from the rest. It was no +difficult matter to see through these artifices; and I was, +therefore, strongly inclined to break off all further communication +with them, when a chief came to us, who was +the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers +of the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed when +we last left the bay, intending to take his passage to <i>Mowee</i>. +He told us, that he came from Terreeoboo, to acquaint us, +that the body was carried up the country; but that it should +be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great +deal of sincerity in his manner; and being asked if he told +a falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page478" id="page478"></a>[pg 478]</span> +is understood amongst these islanders as the sign of truth; +in the use of which they are very scrupulous.</p> + +<p>As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent +Mr Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that +had passed; that my opinion was they meant not to keep +their word with us; and were so far from being sorry at +what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full +of spirits and confidence on account of their late success, +and sought only to gain time, till they could contrive some +scheme for getting us into their power. Mr Vancouver +came back with orders for me to return on board; having +given the natives to understand, that, if the body was not +brought the next morning, the town should be destroyed.</p> + +<p>When they saw that we were going off, they endeavoured +to provoke us by the most insulting and contemptuous +gestures. Some of our people said they could distinguish +several of the natives parading about in the clothes of our +unfortunate comrades; and among them a chief, brandishing +Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the scabbard. +Indeed, there can be no doubt but that our behaviour +had given them a mean opinion of our courage, for +they could have but little notion of the motives of humanity +that directed it.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, +of what I conceived to be the present temper and disposition +of the islanders, the most effectual measures were taken +to guard against any attack they might make in the +night. The boats were moored with top-chains; additional +sentinels were posted on both ships; and guard-boats were +stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives +from cutting the cables. During the night we observed +a prodigious number of lights on the hills, which made +some of us imagine they were removing their effects back +into the country, in consequence of our threats. But I rather +believe them to have been sacrifices that were performing +on account of the war in which they imagined +themselves about to be engaged; and, most probably, the +bodies of our slain countrymen were at that time burning. +We afterwards saw fires of the same kind, as we passed the +island of Morotoi; and which, we were told by some natives +then on board, were made on account of the war they +had declared against a neighbouring island. And this +agrees with what we learned amongst the Friendly and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page479" id="page479"></a>[pg 479]</span> +Society Isles, that, previous to any expedition against an enemy, +the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame +the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the +night.</p> + +<p>We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by +the howlings and lamentations which were heard on shore; +and early the next morning Koah came alongside the Resolution, +with a present of cloth and a small pig, which he +desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before, +that I was supposed, by the natives, to be the son of Captain +Cook; and as he, in his lifetime, had always suffered +them to believe it, I was probably considered as the chief +after his death. As soon as I came on deck, I questioned, +him about the body; and on his returning me nothing but +evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents; and was +going to dismiss him, with some expressions of anger and +resentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it best, at all +events, to keep up the appearance of friendship, thought +it more proper that he should be treated with the usual respect.</p> + +<p>This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during +the course of the forenoon, with some trifling present or +other; and, as I always observed him eyeing every part of +the ship with great attention, I look care he should see we +were well prepared for our defence.</p> + +<p>He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke +and myself, to go on shore, laying all the blame of the detention +of the bodies on the other chiefs; and assuring us +that every thing might be settled to our satisfaction by a +personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his conduct +was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this +request; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, +which proved the entire falsehood of his pretences: +For we were told, that, immediately after the action, in +which Captain Cook was killed, the old king had retired +to a cave in the steep part of the mountain that hangs over +the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, +and where he remained for many days, having his victuals +let down to him by cords.</p> + +<p>When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive +that his countrymen, who had been collected, by break of +day, in vast crowds on the shore, thronged about him with +great eagerness; as if to learn the intelligence he had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page480" id="page480"></a>[pg 480]</span> +acquired, and what was to be done in consequence of it. It +is very probable, that they expected we should attempt to +put our threats in execution; and they seemed fully resolved +to stand their ground. During the whole morning we +heard conchs blowing in different parts of the coast; large +parties were seen marching over the hills; and, in short, +appearances were so alarming, that we carried out a stream-anchor, +to enable us to haul the ship abreast of the town, +in case of an attack; and stationed boats off the north +point of the bay, to prevent a surprise from that quarter.</p> + +<p>The breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of +the slain, and the warlike posture in which they at this +time appeared, occasioned fresh debates amongst us concerning +the measures next to be pursued. It was at last +determined, that nothing should be suffered to interfere +with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our +departure; but that we should, nevertheless, continue our +negotiations for the recovery of the bodies.</p> + +<p>The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the +fore-mast into a proper situation on deck, for the carpenters +to work upon it; and in making the necessary alterations +in the commissions of the officers. The command of +the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed +on board the Resolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore +to be captain of the Discovery, and promoted Mr Harvey, +a midshipman, who had been with Captain Cook in his +two last voyages, to the vacant lieutenancy. During the +whole day we met with no interruption from the natives; +and at night the launch was again moored with a top-chain; +and guard-boats stationed round both ships as before.</p> + +<p>About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was +heard paddling toward the ship; and as soon as it was +seen both the sentinels on deck fired into it. There were +two persons in the canoe, and they immediately roared out +"<i>Tinnee!</i>" which was the way in which they pronounced +my name, and said they were friends, and had something +for me belonging to Captain Cook. When they came on +board, they threw themselves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly +frightened. Luckily, neither of them was hurt, +notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had gone through +the canoe. One of them was the person, whom I have before +mentioned under the name of the <i>Taboo man</i>, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page481" id="page481"></a>[pg 481]</span> +constantly attended Captain Cook with the circumstances +of ceremony I have already described; and who, though a +man of rank in the island, could scarcely be hindered from +performing for him the lowest offices of a menial servant. +After lamenting, with abundance of tears, the loss of the +<i>Orono</i>, he told us, that he had brought us a part of his +body. He then presented to us a small bundle, wrapped up +in cloth, which he brought under his arm; and it is impossible +to describe the horror which seized us, on finding +in it a piece of human flesh, about nine or ten pounds +weight. This, he said, was all that remained of the body; +that the rest was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the +head and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, +were in the possession of Terreeoboo and the other <i>Erees</i>; +that what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of +the priests, to be made use of in some religious ceremony; +and that he had sent it as a proof of his innocence and attachment +to us.</p> + +<p>This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves whether +they were cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We +first tried, by many indirect questions, put to each of them +apart, to learn in what manner the rest of the bodies had +been disposed of; and finding them very constant in one +story, that, after the flesh had been cut off, it was all burnt, +we at last put the direct question, whether they had not +eat some of it? They immediately shewed as much horror +at the idea as any European would have done; and asked, +very naturally, if that was the custom amongst us? They +afterward asked us, with great earnestness and apparent apprehension, +"When the <i>Orono</i> would come again; and +what he would do to them on his return?" The same enquiry +was frequently made afterward by others; and this +idea agrees with the general tenor of their conduct toward +him, which shewed that they considered him as a being of +a superior nature.</p> + +<p>We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board +till morning, but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction +should come to the knowledge of the king, or chiefs, +it might be attended with the most fatal consequences to +their whole society; in order to prevent which they had +been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the +same precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. +They informed us farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page482" id="page482"></a>[pg 482]</span> +the death of their countrymen; and particularly +cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, they said, was +our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing +more ardently than an opportunity of fighting us; to which +the blowing of the conchs, we heard in the morning, was +meant as a challenge.</p> + +<p>We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen +were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom +five were chiefs; and that Kaneena and his brother, our +very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. +Eight, they said, were killed at the observatory, three of +whom were also of the first rank.</p> + +<p>About eleven o'clock our two friends left us, and took +the precaution to desire, that our guard-boat might attend +them, till they had passed the Discovery, lest they should +again be fired upon, which might alarm their countrymen +on shore, and expose them to the danger of being discovered. +This request was complied with; and we had the +satisfaction to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to +land.</p> + +<p>During the remainder of this night, we heard the same +loud howling and lamentations, as in the preceding one. +Early in the morning, we received another visit from Koah. +I must confess, I was a little piqued to find, that notwithstanding +the most evident marks of treachery in his conduct, +and the positive testimony of our friends the priests, +he should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and +to make us at least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. +Indeed our situation was become extremely awkward and +unpromising; none of the purposes for which this pacific +course of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto +been in the least forwarded by it. No satisfactory answer +whatever had been given to our demands; we did not seem +to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the +islanders; they still kept in force on the shore, as if determined +to resist any attempts we might make to land; and +yet the attempt was become absolutely necessary, as the +completing our supply of water would not admit of any +longer delay.</p> + +<p>However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct +of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great +number of the natives, and from the resolution with which +they seemed to expect us, an attack could not have been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page483" id="page483"></a>[pg 483]</span> +made without some danger; and that the loss of a very few +men might have been severely felt by us, during the remaining +course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the +execution of our threats, though on the one hand it lessened +their opinion of our power, had the effect of causing +them to disperse on the other. For this day, about noon, +finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies of them, +after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of defiance, +marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward. +Those, however, who remained, were not the less daring +and insolent. One man had the audacity to come +within musket-shot a-head of the ship; and, after slinging +several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his +head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting and encouraging +his boldness. Our people were all in a flame at +this insult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, +begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with +these repeated provocations; and requested me to obtain +permission for them from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves +of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of +their commander. On my acquainting him with what was +passing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at +the natives on shore; and promised the crew, that if they +should meet with any molestation at the watering-place +the next day, they should then be left at liberty to chastise +them.</p> + +<p>It is somewhat remarkable, that before we could bring +our guns to bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions, +from the stir they saw in the ship, and had retired behind +their houses and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, +in some measure, at random; notwithstanding which, our +shot produced all the effects that could have been desired; +for, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, with extreme +haste, and on his arrival we learned, that some people +had been killed, and amongst the rest, Maiha-maiha, a +principal chief, and a near relation of the king.<a id="footnotetag155" name="footnotetag155"></a><a href="#footnote155"><sup>2</sup></a></p> + +<p>Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from, +the <i>morai</i> toward the ships, having each a long spear in his +hand; and after they had approached pretty near, they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page484" id="page484"></a>[pg 484]</span> +began to chant a song in a very solemn manner, the subject +of which, from their often mentioning the word <i>Orono</i>, and +pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we +concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung +in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during +the whole of which time they remained in the water, +they went on board the Discovery and delivered their +spears, and after making a short stay, returned on shore. +Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, +we were never able to learn.</p> + +<p>At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security +of the ships; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, +who had visited us the night before, came off again. They +assured us, that though the effects of our great guns, this +afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by +no means laid aside their hostile intentions, and advised us +to be on our guard.</p> + +<p>The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent +ashore for water, and the Discovery was warped close to +the beach, in order to cover that service. We soon found +that the intelligence which the priests had sent us, was not +without foundation; and that the natives were resolved to +take every opportunity of annoying us, when, it could be +done without much risk.</p> + +<p>Throughout all this group of islands, the villages, for the +most part, are situated near the sea; and the adjacent +ground is enclosed with stone walls, about three feet high. +These, we at first imagined, were intended for the division +of property; but we now discovered, that they served, and +probably were principally designed, for a defence against invasion. +They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants are +very dexterous in shifting them with great quickness, to +such situations, as the direction of the attack may require. +In the sides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, +they have also little holes, or caves, of considerable depth, +the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the same +kind. From behind both these defences, the natives kept +perpetually harassing our waterers with stones; nor could +the small force we had on shore, with the advantage of +muskets, compel them to retreat.</p> + +<p>In this exposed situation, our people were so taken up in +attending to their own safety, that they employed the +whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page485" id="page485"></a>[pg 485]</span> +therefore impossible to perform this service, till their assailants +were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was +ordered to dislodge them with her great guns, which being +effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molestation. +However, the natives soon after made their appearance +again, in their usual mode of attack; and it was +now found absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling +houses near the well, behind which they had taken +shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to add, that +our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty +and devastation. Something ought certainly to be allowed +to their resentment of the repeated insults and contemptuous +behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural desire of +revenging the loss of their commander. But, at the same +time, their conduct served strongly to convince me, that +the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, though but +for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands of +private seamen or soldiers on such occasions. The rigour +of discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their +force is kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally +enough to conceive, that whatever they have the +power; they have also the right to do. Actual disobedience +being almost the only crime for which they are accustomed +to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as +the only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to +conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may +do with justice and honour. So that the feelings of humanity, +which are inseparable from us all, and that generosity +toward an unresisting enemy, which at other times is the +distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints +to the exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire +they naturally have of shewing their own independence +and power.<a id="footnotetag156" name="footnotetag156"></a><a href="#footnote156"><sup>3</sup></a></p> + +<p>I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page486" id="page486"></a>[pg 486]</span> +burn only a few straggling huts, which afforded shelter to +the natives. We were therefore a good deal surprised to +see the whole village on fire; and before a boat, that was +sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the +shore, the houses of our old and constant friends, the priests, +were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that +confined me on board this day. The priests had always +been under my protection; and unluckily the officers who +were then on duty, having been seldom ashore at the <i>morai</i>, +were not much acquainted with the circumstances of the +place. Had I been present myself, I might probably have +been, the means of saving their little society from destruction.</p> + +<p>Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape +from the flames; and our people cut off the heads of two +of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor +islander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming +to the well for water, he was shot at by one of the marines. +The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw +from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves +I have before described, and no lion could have defended +his den with greater courage and fierceness, till at last, after +having kept two of our people at bay for a considerable +time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this accident +that first brought us acquainted with the use of these +caverns.</p> + +<p>At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, +and sent on board in the same boat with the heads of his +two countrymen. I never saw horror so strongly pictured, +as in the face of this man, nor so violent a transition to extravagant +joy, as when he was untied, and told he might go +away in safety. He shewed us he did not want gratitude, +as he frequently afterward returned with presents of provisions, +and also did us other services.</p> + +<p>Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming +down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, +holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, and plantains, +&c. in their hands. I know not how it happened, that this +peaceful embassy, as soon as they were within reach, received +the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not +stop them. They continued their procession, and the officer +on duty came up in time to prevent a second discharge. +As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much-esteemed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page487" id="page487"></a>[pg 487]</span> +friend Kairekeea, who had fled on our first setting +fire to the village, and had now returned, and desired to be +sent on board the Resolution.</p> + +<p>When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and +thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him understand the +necessity we were under of setting fire to the village, by +which his house, and those of his brethren, were unintentionally +consumed. He expostulated a little with us on our +want of friendship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, +it was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the +injury we had done them. He told us, that relying on the +promises I had made them, and on the assurances they had +afterward received from the men, who had brought us the +remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their effects +back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, +but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as +well as what they had collected from us, into a house close +to the <i>morai</i>, where they had the mortification to see it all +set on fire by ourselves.<a id="footnotetag157" name="footnotetag157"></a><a href="#footnote157"><sup>4</sup></a></p> + +<p>On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen +lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly +shocked, and desired, with great earnestness, that they +might be thrown overboard. This request Captain Clerke +instantly ordered to be complied with.</p> + +<p>In the evening, the watering party returned on board, +having met with no farther interruption. We passed a +gloomy night; the cries and lamentations we heard on shore +being far more deadful than ever. Our only consolation +was, the hope that we should have no occasion, in future, +for a repetition of such severities.</p> + +<p>It is very extraordinary, that amidst all these disturbances, +the women of the island who were on board, never +offered to leave us, nor discovered the smallest apprehensions +either for themselves or their friends ashore. So entirely +unconcerned did they appear, that some of them, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page488" id="page488"></a>[pg 488]</span> +were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire +the sight, and frequently cried out, that it was <i>maitai</i>, +or very fine.</p> + +<p>The next morning, Koah came off as usual to the ships. +As there existed no longer any necessity for keeping terms +with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he +approached toward the side of the ship, singing a song, and +offering me a hog and some plantains, I ordered him to +keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without +Captain Cook's bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of +his frequent breach of promise. He did not appear much +mortified with this reception, but went immediately on +shore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting +the waterers with stones. The body of the young man +who had been killed the day before, was found this morning, +lying at the entrance of the cave; and some of our +people went and threw a mat over it; soon after which, +they saw some men carrying him off on their shoulders, +and could hear them singing, as they marched, a mournful +song.</p> + +<p>The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the +want of ability to punish them, which had hitherto made us +tolerate their provocations, desisted from giving us any farther +molestation; and, in the evening, a chief called Eappo, +who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a +man of the very first consequence, came with presents from +Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, +and he was dismissed with the same answer which had before +been given, that until the remains of Captain Cook +should be restored, no peace would be granted. We learned +from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies of our +people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been +burnt, that the limb bones of the marines had been divided +amongst the inferior chiefs, and that those of Captain Cook +had been disposed of in the following manner: The head +to a great chief called Kahoo-opeon, the hair to Maiha-maiha, +and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After +it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots +and other vegetables, and we also received two large presents +of the same articles from Kaireekeea.</p> + +<p>The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving +the messages which passed between Captain Clerke and +Terreeoboo. Eappo was very pressing that one of our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page489" id="page489"></a>[pg 489]</span> +officers should go on shore; and, in the mean time, offered +to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, it +was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with +a promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the +beach, the waterers did not meet with the least opposition +from the natives; who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, +came amongst us again, without the smallest appearance +of diffidence or apprehension.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction +of getting the foremast stepped. It was an operation attended +with great difficulty and some danger, our ropes being +so exceedingly rotten, that the purchase gave way several +times.</p> + +<p>Between ten and eleven o'clock, we saw a great number +of people descending the hill, which is over the beach, in +a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cane or +two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, <i>taro</i>, and plantains in +his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, +when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, +and began to beat their drums, while those who had followed +them, advanced one by one, and having deposited the +presents they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon +after, Eappo came in sight, in his long feathered cloak, +bearing something with great solemnity in his hands; and +having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat +to be sent to him.</p> + +<p>Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the +bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went +himself in the pinnace to receive them, and ordered me to +attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, +Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the captain +the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, +and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. +He afterward attended us to the Resolution, but +could not be prevailed upon to go on board, probably not +choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at the +opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of +Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable +scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from +the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; +the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the +bones that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair +upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it; the bones of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page490" id="page490"></a>[pg 490]</span> +both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them; +the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the +feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole +bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the +hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in +several places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an +intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the +back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. +The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, +had been seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo +was using every means to recover them.</p> + +<p>The next morning, Eappo and the king's son came on +board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain +Cook, the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other +trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to +convince us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, +were most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given +us the most convincing proof of it in their power; and that +they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other +chiefs, many of whom were still our enemies. He lamented, +with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs we had +killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best +friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's +people, very probably in revenge for the blow that +had been given him, and that it had been broken up the +next day. The arms of the marines which we had also demanded, +he assured us had been carried off by the common +people, and were irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone +having been preserved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the +Erees.</p> + +<p>Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to +our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed +with orders to <i>taboo</i> all the bay; and in the afternoon, +the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service +read over them, they were committed to the deep with +the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this +occasion I leave the world to conceive; those who were +present know that it is not in my power to express them.</p> + +<p>During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen +paddling in the bay; the <i>taboo</i> which Eappo had laid on it +the day before, at our request, not being yet taken off. At +length Eappo came off to us. We assured him that we +were now entirely satisfied; and that as the <i>Orono</i> was buried, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page491" id="page491"></a>[pg 491]</span> +all remembrance of what had passed was buried with +him. We afterward desired him to take off the <i>taboo</i>, and +to make it known, that the people might bring their provisions +as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, +and many of the chiefs came on board, expressing +great sorrow at what had happened, and their satisfaction +at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not +visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. +Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was +refused admittance.</p> + +<p>As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke +imagining, that if the news of our proceedings should reach +the islands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, +gave orders, to unmoor. About eight in the evening we +dismissed all the natives, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeea +took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately +weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected +on the shore in great numbers; and, as we passed +along, received our last farewells with every mark of affection +and good-will.<a id="footnotetag158" name="footnotetag158"></a><a href="#footnote158"><sup>5</sup></a></p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote154" name="footnote154"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag154"> (return) </a><p>This is a very happy reflection, and implies a discriminating power +and good sense, of which, it is justice to his talents to say, Captain King +has exhibited no few or inconsiderable examples.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote155" name="footnote155"></a><b>Footnote 2:</b><a href="#footnotetag155"> (return) </a><p>The word <i>matee</i> is commonly used, in the language of these +islands, +to express either killing or wounding; and we were afterwards told, that +this chief had only received a slight blow on the face from a stone, which +had been struck by one of the balls.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote156" name="footnote156"></a><b>Footnote 3:</b><a href="#footnotetag156"> (return) </a><p>In the preceding remarks, we have another strong confirmation, if +any additional one were wanting, of the opinions formerly given respecting +the character and usual conduct of sailors. Nor are they less imperative, +as to the expediency of modifying the education and treatment of that +useful class of subjects, than what we ventured, on another occasion, to +suggest. They have, however, the recommendation of experience, to +which, in general, more regard is properly enough shewn, than can be expected +towards arguments drawn from merely abstract opinions, too often +so remote from the common track of life as to be quite inapplicable to the +diversities and complicated relations of human societies.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote157" name="footnote157"></a><b>Footnote 4:</b><a href="#footnotetag157"> (return) </a><p>How painful, on the other hand, must this occurrence have proved to +a man of King's refined feelings and sentiments! But it ought not to be +forgotten, that even such an event, though not at all intended, was almost +a necessary consequence of the conduct, which, in a moment of irritation, +not however totally disjoined from every plea of prudence, he himself had +thought right to prescribe. So impolitic, and so blind in the distribution +of mischief, is revenge, though apparently sanctioned by the hope and +calculation +of advantage.—E.</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote158" name="footnote158"></a><b>Footnote 5:</b><a href="#footnotetag158"> (return) </a><p>Would it not be generally advantageous for mankind to consider, +when +they are about to engage, or are engaged, in hostilities against each other, +that it is highly probable, nay in most cases certain, that they shall one +day come to a good understanding, and regret that their altercation had +been so mutually destructive? Would not a notion of this kind, far enough +indeed from being any effect or symptom of weakness, contribute essentially +to what is surely always a good thing, the moderation of men's passions; +and have, therefore, the beneficial tendency, at really the least expence +and suffering, to accomplish the only legitimate and avowed end of war, a +safe and honourable peace? But no termination of a struggle is entitled to +be called either the one or the other, which, resulting merely from the +experience +of common exhaustion and mutual inability, leaves the parties to +grumble over the relics of their animosity, and to brood on their misfortunes, +till new means and spirits be produced to resume the conflict. There +is much wisdom in the language which a deceased statesman used, when +he spoke of "making peace in the spirit of peace," as the only remedy for +the political disorders of the world. But this disposition, it seems morally +certain, cannot exist, unless in union with the anticipation of the comforts +and vastly superior benefits which such a consummation can afford,—E.</p></blockquote> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page492" id="page492"></a>[pg 492]</span> + + +<h3>SECTION V.</h3> + +<blockquote><i>Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the +South-East Side of Mowee.—Driven to Leeward by the +Easterly Winds and Current.—Pass the Island of Tahoorowha.—Description +of the South-West Side of Mowee.—Run +along the Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.—Description +of the North-East Coast of Woahoo.—Unsuccessful +Attempt to Water.—Passage to Atooi.—Anchor in +Wymoa Bay.—Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party +on Shore.—Civil Dissensions in the Islands.—Visit from the +contending Chiefs.—Anchor off Oneeheow.—Final Departure +from the Sandwich Islands.</i></blockquote> + +<p>We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the +boats, stood to the northward, with an intention of searching +for a harbour on the S.E. side of Mowee, which we +had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next +morning we found ourselves driven to leeward by a heavy +swell from the N.E., and a fresh gale springing up from the +same quarter, carried us still farther to the westward. At +midnight we tacked, and stood to the S. for four hours, in +order to keep clear of the land; and at day-break, we found +ourselves standing toward a small barren island, called Tahoorowa, +which lies seven or eight miles to the S.W. of +Mowee.</p> + +<p>All prospect of examining more nearly the S.E. parts of +Mowee being now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along +the S.E. side of Tahoorowa. As we were steering close +round its western extremity, with an intention of fetching +the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our water, and +observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks almost +right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and +a half, when we again steered to the northward; and, after +passing over a bank, with nineteen fathoms water, stood for +a passage between Mowee and an island called Ranai. At +noon the latitude was by observation, 20° 42' N., and the +longitude 203° 22' E.; the southern extremity of Mowee +bearing E.S.E. 1/4 E.; the southern extremity of Ranai +W.N.W. 1/4 W.; Morotoi, N.W. and by N.; and the western +extremity of Tahoorowa, S. by E., seven miles distant. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page493" id="page493"></a>[pg 493]</span> +Our longitude was accurately deduced from observations +made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared +with the longitude found by a great many distances of the +moon from the sun and stars, which were also observed the +same day.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs +from the W., we stood on to the N.N.W.; but at sun-set, +observing a shoal, which appeared to stretch to a considerable +distance from the W. point of Mowee, toward the +middle of the passage, and the weather being unsettled, we +tacked, and stood toward the S.</p> + +<p>The S.W. side of this island, which we now had passed +without being able to get near the shore, forms the same +distant view with the N.E., as seen on our return from the +N., in November 1778; the mountainous parts, which are +connected by a low flat isthmus, appearing at first like two +separate islands. This deception continued on the S.W. +side, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the +coast, which, bending inward to a great depth, formed a fine +capacious bay. The westernmost point, off which the shoal +we have just mentioned runs, is made remarkable by a small +hillock, to the southward of which there is a fine sandy +bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number of cocoa-nut +trees growing about them.</p> + +<p>During the course of the day, we were visited by several +of the natives, who came off to sell provisions, and we soon +found that they had heard of our late unfortunate transactions +at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the +particulars from a woman who had concealed herself on +board the Resolution, in order to take her passage to Atooi; +enquiring eagerly after Pareea and some other chiefs, and +appearing much shocked at the death of Kaneena and his +brother. We had, however, the satisfaction to find that, in +whatever light the woman might have represented this business, +it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was +remarkably civil and submissive.</p> + +<p>The weather continued variable during the night; but in +the morning of the 25th, having the wind at E., we ran +along the S. side of Ranai, till near noon; after which, we +had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we steered, +with a light easterly breeze, for the W. part of Morotoi. In +the course of the day, the current, which, from the time we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page494" id="page494"></a>[pg 494]</span> +left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the N.E., changed its +direction to the S.E.</p> + +<p>During the night, the wind was again variable; but early +next morning it settled at E., and blew so fresh as to oblige +us to double-reef the top-sails. At seven, in hauling round +the W. point of Morotoi, we opened a small bay, at the +distance of about two leagues, with a fine sandy beach; but +seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to the N., +in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island +which we had seen at our first visit in January 1778.</p> + +<p>At two in the afternoon, we saw the land bearing W. by +N., eight leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it +was dark, we again bore away at day-light on the 27th; and +at half-past ten, were within a league of the shore, near the +middle of the N.E. side of the island.</p> + +<p>The coast to the northward is formed of detached hills, +rising perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken +summits, the sides covered with wood, and the vallies +between them of a fertile and well-cultivated appearance. +To the southward we saw an extensive bay, bounded by a +low point of land to the S.E., which was covered with cocoa-nut +trees, and off it stood a high insulated rock, about +a mile from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented +our seeing distinctly the land to the southward of +the point, we could only perceive that it was high and +broken.</p> + +<p>As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it +dangerous to entangle ourselves with a lee-shore, and therefore +did not attempt to examine the bay, but hauled up, +and steered to the northward in the direction of the coast. +At noon, we were abreast of the N. point of the island, +about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and +has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and +a half. The latitude, by observation, 21° 50' N., longitude +202° 15' E., the extreme parts of the island in sight bearing +S.S.E. 1/4 E., and S.W. by S. 3/4 W.</p> + +<p>Between the N. point and a distant head-land which we +saw to the S.W., the land bends inward considerably, and +appeared likely to afford a good road. We therefore directed +our course along the shore, at the distance of about +a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to thirteen +fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river, +running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page495" id="page495"></a>[pg 495]</span> +anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the +extreme points of the bay bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., and +N.E. by E. 3/4 E., and the mouth of the river S.E. 1/2 E., one +mile distant. In the afternoon I attended the two captains +on shore, where we found but few of the natives, and those +mostly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi +to fight Tahyterree, but that their chief, Perreeoranee, +who had stayed behind, would certainly visit us as soon as +he heard of our arrival.</p> + +<p>We were much disappointed to find the water had a +brackish taste for two hundred yards up the river, owing to +the marshy ground through which it empties itself into the +sea. Beyond this it was perfectly fresh, and formed a fine +running stream, along the side of which I walked till I came +to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched off to +the right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic +mountain. The banks of this river, and indeed the whole +we saw of the N.W. part of Woahoo, are well cultivated, +and full of villages; and the face of the country is uncommonly +beautiful and picturesque.</p> + +<p>As the watering at this place would have been attended +with great labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; +but not being able to land, on account of a reef of +coral which stretched along the shore to the distance of +half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without farther loss +of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we +weighed, and stood to the northward till day-light on the +28th, when we bore away for that island, which we were in +sight of by noon; and about sun-set, were off its eastern +extremity, which shews itself in a fine green flat point.</p> + +<p>It being too late to run for the road on the S.W. side of +the island, where we had been the last year, we passed the +night in plying on and off, and at nine the next morning, +came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored +with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head +on the west side of the village, bearing N.E. by N. 3/4 +E., two miles distant; the extremes of the island, N.W. by +W. 3/4 W., and S.E. by E. 1/2 E.; the island Oneeheow W. +by S. 1/2 W. In running down to the road, from the S.E. +point of the island, we saw the appearance of shoal water +in several places, at a considerable distance from the land; +and when we were about two miles to the eastward of the +anchoring-place, and two or three miles from the shore, we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page496" id="page496"></a>[pg 496]</span> +got into four and a half fathoms water, although our soundings +had usually been seven and eight fathoms.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several +canoes came along-side of us; but we could observe +that they did not welcome us with the same cordiality in +their manner, and satisfaction in their countenances, as +when we were here before. As soon as they got on board, +one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder +amongst their women, of which several persons of both +sexes had died. He was himself afflicted with the venereal +disease, and gave a very full and minute account of the various +symptoms with which it had been attended. As there +was not the slightest appearance of that disorder amongst +them on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied +that we were the authors of this irreparable mischief.</p> + +<p>Our principal object here was to water the ships with the +utmost expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, +with the pinnace and launch laden with casks. +The gunner of the Resolution accompanied me to trade for +provisions, and we had a guard of five marines. We found +a considerable number of people collected upon the beach, +who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as +we got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. +Former experience having taught me how difficult +it was to repress this disposition, without having recourse +to the authority of their chiefs, I was very sorry to +find that they were all at another part of the island. Indeed +we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was with +great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our +usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading +party, and had no sooner done it, and posted guards +to keep off the crowd, than I saw a man laying hold of the +bayonet of one of the soldiers' muskets, and endeavouring, +with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my +coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired, +but returned in a moment, with a spear in one hand and a +dagger in the other; and his countrymen had much ado to +restrain him from trying his prowess with the soldier. This +fray was occasioned by the latter's having given the man a +slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep +without the line.</p> + +<p>I now perceived that our situation required great circumspection +and management; and accordingly gave the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page497" id="page497"></a>[pg 497]</span> +strictest orders that no one should fire, nor have recourse to any +other act of violence, without positive commands. As soon +as I had given these directions, I was called to the assistance +of the watering party, where I found the natives equally +inclined to mischief. They had demanded from our people +a large hatchet for every cask of water, and this not +being complied with, they would not suffer the sailors to roll +them down to the boats.</p> + +<p>I had no sooner joined them than one of the natives advanced +up to me, with great insolence, and made the same +claim. I told him that, as a friend, I was very willing to +present him with a hatchet, but that I should certainly carry +off the water without paying any thing for it; and I immediately +ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their business, +and called three marines from the traders to protect +them.</p> + +<p>Though this shew of spirit succeeded so far as to make +the natives desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, +they still continued to behave in the most teazing and provoking +manner. Whilst some of them, under pretence of +assisting the men in rolling down the casks, turned them +out of their course, and gave them a wrong direction; +others were stealing the hats from off the sailors' heads, +pulling them backward by their clothes, or tripping up their +heels; the whole crowd, all this time, shouting and laughing, +with a strange mixture of childishness and malice. +They afterward found means to steal the cooper's bucket, +and took away his bag by force; but the objects they were +most eager to possess themselves of were the muskets of the +marines, who were every instant complaining of their attempts +to force them out of their hands. Though they continued, +for the most part, to pay great deference and respect +to me, yet they did not suffer me to escape without +contributing my share to their stock of plunder. One of +them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great +management diverted my attention, whilst another, wrenching +the hanger, which I held carelessly in my hand, from +me, ran off with it like lightning.</p> + +<p>It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by +force; guarding therefore against its effects, in the best +manner we were able, we had nothing to do but to submit +patiently to it. My apprehensions were, however, a little +alarmed, by the information I soon after received from the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page498" id="page498"></a>[pg 498]</span> +serjeant of marines, who told me that, turning suddenly +round, he saw a man behind me holding a dagger in the +position of striking. In this he might possibly be mistaken; +yet our situation was certainly alarming and critical, +and the smallest error on our side might have been fatal to +us. As our people were separated into three small parties, +one at the lake filling casks; another rolling them down +to the shore; and the third, at some distance, purchasing +provisions; it had once occurred to me, that it might be +proper to collect them altogether, and to execute and protect +one duty at a time. But on second thoughts, I judged +it more advisable to let them continue as they were. In +case of a real attack, our whole force, however advantageously +disposed, could have made but a poor resistance. +On the other hand, I thought it of some consequence to +shew the natives that we were under no fears; and, what +was still more material, the crowd was by this means kept +divided, and a considerable part of them fully employed in +bartering provisions.</p> + +<p>It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms +was the principal cause of their backwardness in attacking +us; and, indeed, the confidence we appeared to place in +this advantage, by opposing only five marines to their +whole force, must have raised in them a very high idea of +our superiority. It was our business to keep up this opinion +as much as possible; and in justice to the whole party, +I must observe, that no men could possibly behave better, +for the purpose of strengthening these impressions. +Whatever could be taken in jest, they bore with the utmost +temper and patience; and whenever any serious attempt +was made to interrupt them, they opposed it with bold +looks and menaces. By this management we succeeded so +far as to get all the casks down to the water side without +any material accident.</p> + +<p>While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, +perceiving the opportunity of plundering would soon, +be over, became every moment more daring and insolent. +On this occasion I was indebted to the serjeant of marines, +for suggesting to me the advantage that would arise from +sending off his party first into the boats; by which means +the muskets of the soldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, +were the objects the islanders had principally in +view, would be removed out of their reach; and in case of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page499" id="page499"></a>[pg 499]</span> +an attack, the marines themselves might be employed more +effectually in our defence, than if they were on shore.</p> + +<p>We had now got every thing into the boats, and only +Mr Anderson the gunner, a seaman of the boat's crew, and +myself, remained on shore. As the pinnace lay beyond the +surf, through which we were obliged to swim, I told them +to make the best of their way to it, and that I should follow +them. With this order I was surprised to find them +both refuse to comply; and the consequence was a contest +among us who should be the last on shore. It seems that +some hasty words I had just before used to the sailor, +which he thought reflected on his courage, was the cause +of this odd fancy in him; and the old gunner, finding a +point of honour started, thought he could not well avoid +taking a part in it. In this ridiculous situation we might +have remained some time, had not our dispute been soon +settled by the stones that began to fly about us, and by the +cries of the people from the boats, to make haste, as the +natives were following us into the water with clubs and +spears. I reached the side of the pinnace first, and finding +Mr Anderson was at some distance behind, and not yet entirely +out of danger, I called out to the marines to fire one +musket. In the hurry of executing my orders, they fired +two; and when I had got into the boat I saw the natives +running away, and one man, with a woman sitting by him, +left behind on the beach. The man made several attempts +to rise without being able; and it was with much regret, I +perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives +soon after returned, and surrounded the wounded man, +brandishing their spears and daggers at us, with an air of +threatening and defiance; but before we reached the ships, +we saw some persons, whom we supposed to be the chiefs, +now arrived, driving them away from the shore.</p> + +<p>During our absence, Captain Clerke had been under the +greatest anxiety for our safety. And these apprehensions +were considerably increased, from his having entirely mistaken +the drift of the conversation he had held with some +natives who had been on board. The frequent mention of +the name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial +descriptions of death and destruction, made him +conclude, that the knowledge of the unfortunate events at +Owhyhee had reached them, and that these were what they +alluded to; whereas all they had in view was, to make +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page500" id="page500"></a>[pg 500]</span> +known to him the wars that had arisen, in consequence of +the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and +the slaughter of the poor goats themselves, during the +struggle for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying +this earnestness of conversation, and these terrible representations, +to our calamitous transactions at Owhyhee, +and to an indication of revenge, kept his telescope fixed +upon us, and the moment he saw the smoke of the muskets, +ordered the boats to be manned and armed, and to +put off to our assistance.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was again ordered on shore, with +the watering party. The risk we had run the preceding +day, determined Captain Clerke to send a considerable +force from both ships for our guard, amounting in all to +forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now +unnecessary; for we found the beach left entirely to ourselves, +and the ground between the landing-place and the +lake <i>tabooed</i> with small white flags. We concluded, from +this appearance, that some of the chiefs had certainly visited +this quarter; and that not being able to stay, they +had kindly and considerately taken this step, for our greater +security and convenience. We saw several men armed +with long spears and daggers, on the other side of the river, +on our right; but they did not offer to give us the +least molestation. Their women came over, and sat down +on the banks close by us, and at noon we prevailed on +some of the men to bring hogs and roots for our people, +and to dress them for us. As soon as we had left the +beach, they came down to the sea-side, and one of them +threw a stone at us; but his conduct seeming to be highly +disapproved of by all the rest, we did not think it proper +to shew any resentment.</p> + +<p>The next day we completed our watering, without meeting +with any material difficulty. On our return to the +ships, we found that several chiefs had been on board, and +had made excuses for the behaviour of their countrymen, +attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels which subsisted +at that time amongst the principal people of the +island, and which had occasioned a general want of order +and subordination amongst them. The government of +Atooi was in dispute between Toneoneo, who had the supreme +power when we were here last year, and a boy named +Teavee. They are both, by different fathers, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page501" id="page501"></a>[pg 501]</span> +grandsons of Perreeorannee, king of Woahoo, who had +given the government of Atooi to the former, and that of +Oneeheow to the latter. The quarrel had arisen about the +goats we had left at Oneeheow the last year; the right of +property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence +of that island's being a dependency of his. The +friends of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both +parties prepared to maintain their pretensions by force; +and a few days before our arrival, a battle had been fought, +in which Toneoneo had been worsted. The consequence +of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a much +deeper manner than by the mere loss of the objects in dispute; +for the mother of Teavee having married a second +husband, who was a chief of Atooi, and at the head of a +powerful faction there, he thought that the present opportunity +was not to be neglected, of driving Toneoneo entirely +out of the island, and of advancing his son-in-law to +the government. I have already had occasion to mention, +that the goats, which had increased to the number of six, +and would probably in a few years have stocked all these +islands, were destroyed in the contest.</p> + +<p>On the 4th, the mother and sister of the young prince +and his father-in-law, with many other chiefs of that party, +came on board the Resolution, and made several curious and +valuable presents to Captain Clerke. Amongst the +former, were some fish-hooks, which they assured us were +made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, +who had been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon the +island of Woahoo; and a fly-flap, presented to him by the +prince's sister, the handle of which was a human bone, +that had been given her as a trophy by her father-in-law. +Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as +we were told, in performing some religious ceremonies, in +consequence of the victory he had obtained, which were +to last twenty days.</p> + +<p>This and the two following days were employed on shore, +in completing the Discovery's water; and the carpenters +were busy on board, in caulking the ships, and in making +other preparations for our next cruise. The natives desisted +from giving us any further disturbance, and we procured +from them a plentiful supply of pork and vegetables.</p> + +<p>At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board +the Discovery, to be fashioned into the shape of a <i>pahooah</i>. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page502" id="page502"></a>[pg 502]</span> +It was carefully examined both by the officers and men, +and appeared to be the bolt of some large ship-timbers. +They were not able to discover to what nation it belonged; +but from the pale colour<a id="footnotetag159" name="footnotetag159"></a><a href="#footnote159"><sup>1</sup></a> of the iron, and its not corresponding +in shape to our bolts, they concluded that it certainly +was not English. This led them to make a strict +enquiry of the native, when and where he got it; and, if +they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a +piece of timber, larger than the cable-bit, to which he +pointed. This piece of wood, they farther understood from, +him, to have been driven upon their island, since we were +here in January 1778.</p> + +<p>On the 7th, we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. +When he heard the dowager-princess was in the +ship, it was with great difficulty we could prevail on him to +come on board, not from any apprehension that he appeared +to entertain of his safety, but from an unwillingness to +see her. Their meeting was with sulky and lowering looks +on both sides. He staid but a short time, and seemed +much dejected; but we remarked, with some surprise, that +the women, both at his coming and going way, prostrated +themselves before him; and that he was treated by all the +natives on board with the respect usually paid to those of +his rank. Indeed, it must appear somewhat extraordinary, +that a person who was at this time in a state of actual hostility +with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another +battle, should trust himself almost alone within the +power of his enemies. It is therefore to be observed, that +the civil dissentions, which are very frequent throughout +all the South-Sea Islands, seem to be carried on without +much acrimony or bloodshed; and that the deposed governor +still continues to enjoy the rank of an <i>Eree</i>, and is left +to make use of such means as may arise for the regaining +his lost consequence. But I shall have occasion to speak +more particularly on this subject in the next section; in +which the best account will be given, which we were able +to collect, of the political state of those countries.</p> + +<p>On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and +sailed toward Oneeheow; and at three in the afternoon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="page503" id="page503"></a>[pg 503]</span> +anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the same spot +as in the year 1778. We moored with the other anchor in +twenty-six fathoms water. The high bluff, on the south +end of the island, bore E.S.E.; the north point of the road, +N. 1/2 E; and a bluff head to the south of it, N.E. by N. +During the night, we had a strong gale from the eastward; +and, in the morning of the 9th, found the ship had driven +a whole cable's length, and brought both anchors almost +ahead. We shortened in the best bower-cable; but the +wind blowing too fresh to unmoor, we were obliged to remain +this and the two following days with the anchors still +ahead.</p> + +<p>On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was +sent to the north-west side of the island, to look for a more +convenient place for anchoring. He returned in the evening, +having found, close round the west point of the road +where we now lay, which is also the westernmost point of +the island, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen fathoms +water, a clear sandy bottom, not a mile from the +beach, on which the surf beats, but not so as to hinder +landing. The direction of the points of the bay were N. +by E., and S. by W.; and, in that line, the soundings seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. On the north side of the +bay was a small village; and a quarter of a mile to the +eastward were four small wells of good water; the road to +them level, and fit for rolling casks. Mr Bligh went afterward +so far to the north as to satisfy himself, that Oreehoua +was a separate island from Oneeheow, and that there +was a passage between them, which before we only conjectured +to exist.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we hoisted in all the boats, and made +ready for going to sea in the morning.</p> + +<blockquote class="footnote"><a id="footnote159" name="footnote159"></a><b>Footnote 1:</b><a href="#footnotetag159"> (return) </a><p>It was evident, that the iron we found in possession of the natives +at +Nootka Sound, and which was mostly made into knives, was of a much +paler sort than ours.</p></blockquote> + +<p>END OF VOLUME SIXTEENTH.</p> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + +***** This file should be named 16471-h.htm or 16471-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/4/7/16471/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** + + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/16471.txt b/16471.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..953e800 --- /dev/null +++ b/16471.txt @@ -0,0 +1,20894 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages +and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 16 + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: August 7, 2005 [EBook #16471] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + +A + +GENERAL + +HISTORY AND COLLECTION + +OF + +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, + +ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER: + +FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION, +DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO +THE PRESENT TIME. + + * * * * * + +BY + +ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN. + + * * * * * + +ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS. + +VOL. XVI. + +WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH: + +AND T. CADELL, LONDON. + +MDCCCXXIV. + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. XVI. + + +CHAP. III. Transactions at Otaheite, and the Society Islands; and +prosecution of the Voyage to the Coast of North America, 1 + + SECT. + + I. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Island Toobouai + discovered. Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance. Intercourse + with its Inhabitants. Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes + described. Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite. Omai's + Reception and imprudent Conduct. Account of Spanish Ships + twice visiting the Island. Interview with the Chief of this + District. The Olla, or God, of Bolabola. A mad Prophet. + Arrival in Matavai Bay, 1 + + II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Island, Imprudent Conduct + of Omai. Employments on Shore. European Animals landed. + Particulars about a Native who had visited Lima. About + Oedidee. A Revolt in Eimeo. War with that Island determined + upon, in a Council of Chiefs. A human Sacrifice on that + Account. A particular Relation of the Ceremonies at the + great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered. Other barbarous + Customs of this People, 16 + + III. Conference with Towha. Heevas described. Omai and Oedidee + give Dinners. Fireworks exhibited. A remarkable Present of + Cloth. Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief. Another + human Sacrifice. Riding on Horseback. Otoo's Attention to + supply Provisions, and prevent Thefts. Animals given to him. + Etary, and the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences. A mock + Fight of two War Canoes. Naval Strength of these Islands. + Manner of conducting a War, 35 + + IV. The Day of Sailing fixed. Peace made with Eimeo. Debates + about it, and Otoo's Conduct blamed. A Solemnity at the Morai + on the Occasion, described by Mr King. Observations upon it. + Instance of Otoo's Art. Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his + Behaviour. Otoo's Present, and Message to the King of Great + Britain. Reflections on our Manner of Traffic, and on the good + Treatment we met with at Otaheite. Account of the Expedition + of the Spaniards. Their Fictions to depreciate the English. + Wishes expressed that no Settlement may be made. Omai's + Jealousy of another Traveller, 48 + + V. Arrival at Eimeo. Two Harbours there, and an Account of + them. Visit from Maheine, Chief of the Island. His Person + described. A Goat stolen, and sent back with the Thief. + Another Goat stolen, and secreted. Measures taken on the + Occasion. Expedition cross the Island. Houses and Canoes + burnt. The Goat delivered up, and Peace restored. Some Account + of the Island, &c. 62 + + VI. Arrival at Huaheine. Council of the Chiefs. Omai's + Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs. His Establishment in this + Island agreed to. A House built, and Garden planted for him. + Singularity of his Situation. Measures taken to insure his + Safety. Damage done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships. A + Thief detected and punished. Fireworks exhibited. Animals left + with Omai. His Family. Weapons. Inscription on his House. His + Behaviour on the Ships leaving the Island. Summary View of his + Conduct and Character. Account of the two New Zealand Youths, + 71 + + VII. Arrival at Ulietea. Astronomical Observations. A + Marine deserts, and is delivered up. Intelligence from + Omai. Instructions to Captain Clerke. Another Desertion of + a Midshipman and a Seaman. Three of the chief Persons of the + Island confined on that Account. A Design to seize Captains + Cook and Clerke discovered. The two Deserters brought back, + and the Prisoners released. The Ships sail. Refreshments + received at Ulietea. Present and former State of that Island. + Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of + Huaheine, 87 + + VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. Interview with Opoony. Reasons for + purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor. Departure from + the Society Islands. Particulars about Bolabola. History of + the Conquest of Otaha and Ulietea. High Reputation of the + Bolabola Men. Animals left there and at Ulietea. Plentiful + Supply of Provisions, and Manner of salting Pork on Board. + Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and the Society + Islands. Astronomical and Nautical Observations made there, 99 + + IX. Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect. The prevailing + Winds. Beauty of the Country. Cultivation. Natural + Curiosities. The Persons of the Natives. Diseases. General + Character. Love of Pleasure. Language. Surgery and Physic. + Articles of Food. Effects of drinking Ava. Times and Manner of + Eating. Connexions with the Females. Circumcision. System of + Religion. Notions about the Soul and a future Life. Various + Superstitions. Traditions about the Creation. An historical + Legend. Honours paid to the King. Distinction of Ranks. + Punishment of Crimes. Peculiarities of the neighbouring + Islands. Names of their Gods. Names of Islands they visit. + Extent of their Navigation, 10 + + X. Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands. + Christmas Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there. + Boats sent ashore. Great Success in catching Turtle. An + Eclipse of the Sun observed. Distress of two Seamen who had + lost their Way. Inscription left in a Bottle. Account of the + Island. Its Soil. Trees and Plants. Birds. Its Size. Form. + Situation. Anchoring Ground, 139 + + XI. Some Islands discovered. Account of the Natives of Atooi, + who came off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going + on Board. One of them killed. Precautions used to prevent + Intercourse with the Females. A Watering-place found. + Reception upon landing. Excursion into the Country. A Morai + visited and described. Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human + Sacrifices, there buried. Another Island, called Oneeheow, + visited. Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to + the Ships. Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals. + A Party sent ashore, who remain two Nights. Account of what + passed on landing. The Ships leave the Islands, and proceed to + the North, 148 + + XII. The Situation of the Islands now discovered. Their + Names. Called the Sandwich Islands. Atooi described. The Soil. + Climate. Vegetable Productions. Birds. Fish. Domestic + Animals. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Disposition. + Dress. Ornaments. Habitations. Food. Cookery. Amusements. + Manufactures. Working-tools. Knowledge of Iron accounted for. + Canoes. Agriculture. Account of one of their Chiefs. Weapons. + Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite. + Their Language the same. Extent of this Nation throughout + the Pacific Ocean. Reflections on the useful Situation of the + Sandwich Islands, 172 + + XIII. Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the + Longitude, Variation of the Compass and Tides. Prosecution of + the Voyage. Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as + the Latitude 44 deg. North. Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern + Hemisphere. Small Sea Animals described. Arrival on the Coast + of America. Appearance of the Country. Unfavourable Winds and + boisterous Weather. Remarks on Martin de Aguilar's River, and + Juan de Fuca's pretended Strait. An Inlet discovered, where + the Ship's anchor. Behaviour of the Natives, 195 + +CHAP. IV. Transactions, amongst the Natives of North America; +Discoveries along that Coast and the Eastern Extremity of Asia, +Northward to Icy Cape; and return Southward to the Sandwich Islands, +207 + + SECT. + + I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour. + Intercourse with the Natives. Articles brought to barter. + Thefts committed. The Observatories erected, and Carpenters + set to work. Jealousy of the Inhabitants of the Sound to + prevent other Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships. Stormy + and rainy Weather. Progress round the Sound. Behaviour of the + Natives at their Villages. Their Manner of drying Fish, &c. + Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory Ceremonies. + A second Visit to one of the Villages. Leave to cut Grass, + purchased. The Ships sail. Presents given and received at + parting, 207 + + II. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into + it. Account of the adjacent Country. Weather. Climate. Trees. + Other Vegetable Productions. Quadrupeds, whose Skins were + brought for Sale. Sea Animals. Description of a Sea-Otter. + Birds. Water Fowl. Fish. Shell-fish, &c. Reptiles. Insects. + Stones, &c. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Colour. Common + Dress and Ornaments. Occasional Dresses, and monstrous + Decorations of wooden Masks. Their general Dispositions. + Songs. Musical Instruments. Their Eagerness to possess Iron + and other Metals, 221 + + III. Manner of Building the Houses in Nootka Sound. Inside + of them described. Furniture and Utensils. Wooden Images. + Employments of the Men. Of the Women. Food, Animal and + Vegetable. Manner of preparing it. Weapons. Manufactures and + Mechanic Arts. Carving and Painting. Canoes. Implements for + Fishing and Hunting. Iron Tools. Manner of procuring that + Metal. Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it. + Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in Nootka Sound, + 239 + + IV. A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound. Resolution + springs a Leak. Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed + unexamined. Progress along the Coast of America. Behring's + Bay. Kaye's Island. Account of it. The Ships come to an + Anchor. Visited by the Natives. Their Behaviour. Fondness for + Beads and Iron. Attempt to plunder the Discovery. Resolution's + Leak stopped; Progress up the Sound. Messrs Gore and Roberts + sent to examine its Extent. Reasons against a Passage to the + North through it. The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea + 260 + + V. The Inlet called Prince William's Sound. Its Extent. + Persons of the Inhabitants described. Their Dress. Incision of + the Under-lip. Various other Ornaments. Their Boats. Weapons. + Fishing and hunting Instruments. Utensils. Tools. Uses Iron + is applied to. Food. Language, and a Specimen of it. Animals. + Birds. Fish. Iron and Beads, whence received, 279 + + VI. Progress along the Coast. Cape Elizabeth. Cape St + Hermogenes. Accounts of Beering's Voyage very defective. Point + Banks. Cape Douglas. Cape Bede. Mount St Augustin. Hopes + of finding a Passage up an Inlet. The Ships proceed up it. + Indubitable Marks of its being a River. Named Cook's River. + The Ships return down it. Various Visits from the Natives. + Lieutenant King lands, and takes Possession of the Country. + His Report. The Resolution runs aground on a Shoal. + Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's River. The considerable + Tides in it accounted for, 291 + + VII. Discoveries after leaving Cook's River. Island of St + Hermogenes. Cape Whitsunday. Cape Greville. Cape Barnabas. + Two-headed Point. Trinity Island. Beering's Foggy Island. A + beautiful Bird described. Kodiak and the Schumagin Islands. A + Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native. Conjectures + about it. Rock Point. Halibut Island. A Volcano Mountain. + Providential Escape. Arrival of the Ships at Oonalaschka. + Intercourse with the Natives there. Another Russian Letter. + Samganoodha Harbour described, 306 + + VIII. Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka. The + Islands Oonella and Acootan. Ooneemak. Shallowness of the + Water along the Coast. Bristol Bay. Round Island. Calm Point. + Cape Newenham. Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report. + Bristol Bay, and its Extent. The Ships obliged to return on + account of Shoals. Natives come off to the Ships. Death of + Mr Anderson; his Character; and Island named after him. Point + Rodney. Sledge Island, and Remarks on landing there. King's + Island. Cape Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of America. + Course Westward. Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia, 323 + + IX. Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing the + Ships. Interview with some of them. Their Weapons. Persons. + Ornaments Clothing. Winter and Summer Habitations. The Ships + cross the Strait, to the Coast of America. Progress Northward. + Cape Mulgrave. Appearance of Fields of Ice. Situation of Icy + Cape, the Sea blocked up with Ice. Sea-horses killed, and used + as Provisions. These Animals described. Dimensions of one of + them. Cape Lisburne. Fruitless Attempt to get through the Ice + at a Distance from the Coast. Observations on the Formation + of this Ice. Arrival on the Coast of Asia. Cape North. The + Prosecution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year, 338 + + X. Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia. Views of + the Country. Burney's Island. Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern + Limit of Beering's Voyage. Pass the East Cape of Asia. + Description and Situation of it. Observations on Muller. + The Tschutski. Bay of Saint Laurence. Two other Bays, and + Habitations of the Natives. Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi. + Beering's Position of this Coast accurate. Island of Saint + Laurence. Pass to the American Coast. Cape Derby. Bald Head. + Cape Denbigh, on a Peninsula. Besborough Island. Wood and + Water procured. Visits from the Natives. Their Persons and + Habitations. Produce of the Country. Marks that the Peninsula + had formerly been surrounded by the Sea. Lieutenant King's + Report. Norton Sound. Lunar Observations there. Staehlin's Map + proved to be erroneous. Plan of future Operations, 353 + + XI. Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound. Stuart's Island. + Cape Stephens. Point Shallow-Water. Shoals on the American + Coast. Clerke's Island. Gore's Island. Pinnacle Island. + Arrival at Oonalashka. Intercourse with the Natives + and Russian Traders. Charts of the Russian Discoveries, + communicated by Mr Ismyloff. Their Errors pointed out. + Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians. Account of + their Settlement at Oonalashka. Of the Natives of the Island. + Their Persons. Dress. Ornaments. Food. Houses and domestic + Utensils. Manufactures. Manner of producing Fire. Canoes. + Fishing and Hunting Implements. Fishes, and Sea Animals. Sea + and Water Fowls, and Land Birds. Land Animals and Vegetables. + Manner of burying the Dead. Resemblance of the Natives on + this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Tides. + Observations for determining the Longitude of Oonalashka. 369 + + XII. Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views. The Island + Amoghta. Situation of a remarkable Rock. Strait between + Oonalashka and Oonella repassed. Progress to the South. + Melancholy Accident on board the Discovery. Mowee, one of the + Sandwich Islands, discovered. Intercourse with the Natives. + Visit from Terreeoboo. Another Island, called Owhyhee, + discovered. The Ships ply to Windward to get round it. + An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Crew refuse to drink + Sugar-cane Beer. Cordage deficient in Strength. Commendation + of the Natives of Owhyhee. The Resolution gets to Windward of + the Island. Her Progress down the South-East Coast. Views of + the Country, and Visits from the Natives. The Discovery joins. + Slow Progress Westward. Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr Bligh. + Vast Concourse of the Natives. The Ships anchor in the Bay, + 402 + +CHAP. V. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on Returning to +the Sandwich Islands, 421 + + SECT. + + I. Description of Karakakooa Bay. Vast Concourse of the + Natives. Power of the Chiefs over the Inferior People. + Visit from Koah, a Priest and Warrior. The Morai at Kakooa + described. Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook. + Observatories erected. Powerful Operation of the Taboo. Method + of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates. Society of Priests + discovered. Their Hospitality and Munificence. Reception of + Captain Cook. Artifice of Koah. Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of + the Island. Returned by Captain Cook, 421 + + II. Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives. Their + Hospitality. Propensity to Theft. Description of a Boxing + Match. Death of one of our Seamen. Behaviour of the Priests at + his Funeral. The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchased. + The Natives inquisitive about our Departure. Their Opinion + about the Design of our Voyage. Magnificent Presents of + Terreeoboo to Captain Cook. The Ships leave the Island. The + Resolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return, 434 + + III. Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return + to Karakakooa Bay. Theft on Board the Discovery, and its + Consequences. The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to + quit her. Captain Cook's Observations on the Occasion. Attempt + at the Observatory. The Cutter of the Discovery stolen. + Measures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery. Goes on Shore + to invite the King on Board. The King being stopped by his + Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises. News arrives of one of + the Chiefs being killed by one of our People. Ferment on this + Occasion. One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is + shot by him. General Attack by the Natives. Death of Captain + Cook. Account of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his + Character, 446 + + IV. Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of + Captain Cook. Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines. + Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai. Bravery of + one of the Natives. Consultation respecting future Measures. + Demand of the Body of Captain Cook. Evasive and insidious + Conduct of Koah and the Chiefs. Insolent Behaviour of the + Natives. Promotion of Officers. Arrival of two Priests with + Part of the Body. Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys. Burning + of the Village of Kakooa. Unfortunate Destruction of the + Dwellings of the Priests. Recovery of the Bones of Captain + Cook. Departure from Karakakooa Bay, 460 + + V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the + South-East Side of Mowee. Driven to Leeward by the Easterly + Winds and Current. Pass the Island of Tahoorowha. Description + of the South-West Side of Mowee. Run along the Coasts of Ranai + and Morotoi to Woahoo. Description of the North-East Coast + of Woahoo. Unsuccessful Attempt to Water. Passage to Atooi. + Anchor in Wymoa Bay. Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party + on Shore. Civil Dissensions in the Islands. Visit from the + contending Chiefs. Anchor off Oneeheow. Final Departure from + the Sandwich Islands, 492 + + + + + +A + +GENERAL HISTORY, + +AND + +COLLECTION + +OF + +VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. + + * * * * * + +PART III. BOOK III. (CONTINUED.) + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS; AND PROSECUTION OF +THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. + + +SECTION I. + +_An Eclipse of the Moon observed.--The Island Toobouai +discovered.--Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance.--Intercourse +with its Inhabitants.--Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes +described.--Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite.--Omai's Reception +and imprudent Conduct.--Account of Spanish Ships twice visiting the +Island.--Interview with the Chief of this District.--The Olla, or God, +of Bolabola.--A mad Prophet.--Arrival in Matavai Bay._ + +Having, as before related,[1] taken our final leave of the Friendly +Islands, I now resume my narrative of the voyage. In the evening of +the 17th of July, at eight o'clock, the body of Eaoo bore N.E. by +N., distant three or four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew +a fresh gale. With it I stood to the S., till half an hour past +six o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall, from the same +direction, took our ship aback; and, before the sails could be trimmed +on the other tack, the main-sail and the top-gallant sails were much +torn. + +[Footnote 1: See the conclusion of Sect. IX. Chap. II.] + +The wind kept between the S.W. and S.E., on the 19th and 20th, +afterward, it veered to the E., N.E., and N. The night between the +20th and 21st, an eclipse of the moon was observed as follows, being +then in the latitude of 22 deg. 57-1/2' S.: + + Apparent time, A.M. + H.M.S. + + Beginning, by Mr King, at 0 32 50 | + Mr Bligh, at 0 33 25 > Mean long. 186 deg. 57-1/2'. + Myself, at 0 33 35 | + + End, by Mr King at 1 44 56 | Mean long. 186 deg. 28-1/2'. + Mr Bligh at 1 44 6 > Time keep. 186 deg. 58-1/2'. + Myself, at 1 44 56 | + +The latitude and longitude are those of the ship, at 8^h 56^m a.m., +being the time when the sun's altitude was taken for finding the +apparent time. At the beginning of the eclipse, the moon was in +the zenith, so that it was found most convenient to make use of the +sextants, and to make the observations by the reflected image, which +was brought down to a convenient altitude. The same was done at the +end, except by Mr King, who observed with a night telescope. Although +the greatest difference between our several observations is no +more than fifty seconds, it, nevertheless, appeared to me that +two observers might differ more than double that time, in both the +beginning and end. And, though the times are noted to seconds, no such +accuracy was pretended to. The odd seconds set down above, arose by +reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent time. + +I continued to stretch to the E.S.E., with the wind at N.E. and N., +without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till seven o'clock in +the evening of the 29th, when we had a sudden and very heavy squall +of wind from the N. At this time we were under single reefed topsails, +courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces, +and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After +this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the +Discovery, by which we concluded, that something had given way; and, +the next morning, we saw that her main-top-mast had been lost. Both +wind and weather continued very unsettled till noon, this day, when +the latter cleared up, and the former settled in the N.W. quarter. At +this time, we were in the latitude of 28 deg. 6' S., and our longitude was +198 deg. 23' E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we +left the land. + +On the 31st, at noon, Captain Clerke made a signal to speak with me. +By the return of the boat which I sent on board his ship, he informed +me, that the head of the main-mast had been just discovered to be +sprung, in such a manner as to render the rigging of another top-mast +very dangerous; and that, therefore, he must rig something lighter +in its place. He also informed me, that he had lost his +main-top-gallant-yard, and that he neither had another, nor a spar to +make one, on board. The Resolution's sprit-sail top-sail yard which I +sent him, supplied this want. The next day, he got up a jury top-mast, +on which he set a mizen-top-sail, and this enabled him to keep way +with the Resolution. + +The wind was fixed in the western board, that is, from the N., round +by the W. to S., and I steered E.N.E. and N.E., without meeting with +anything remarkable, till eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th +of August, when land was seen, bearing N.N.E., nine or ten leagues +distant. At first, it appeared in detached hills, like so many +separate islands; but, as we drew nearer, we found that they were all +connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly +for it, with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and at half-past six o'clock +in the afternoon, it extended from N. by E., to N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant +three or four leagues. + +The night was spent standing off and on; and at day-break the next +morning, I steered for the N.W., or lee-side of the island; and as we +stood round its S. or S.W. part, we saw it every where guarded by a +reef of coral rock, extending, in some places, a full mile from the +land, and a high surf breaking upon it. Some thought that they +saw land to the southward of this island; but, as that was to the +windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we saw people on +different parts of the coast, walking, or running along the shore, and +in a little time after we had reached the lee-side of the island, +we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and +paddled toward us. + +I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up +with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance of about half a +mile from the reef, we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, +over a bottom of fine sand. Nearer in, the bottom was strewed with +coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a +pistol-shot from the ship, there stopped. Omai was employed, as +he usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to +prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no entreaties could +induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly +pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go +thither; and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach held +up something white, which we considered also as an invitation to land. +We could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without +the reef, and a break or opening in it, from whence the canoes had +come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water +for the ships, there was more than sufficient for the boats. But I did +not think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the +sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. +We stood in no need of refreshments, if I had been sure of meeting +with them there; and having already been so unexpectedly delayed in +my progress to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding every +possibility of farther retardment. For this reason, after making +several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come +alongside, I made sail to the N., and left them, but not without +getting from them, during their vicinity to our ship, the name of +their island, which they called Toobouai. + +It is situated in the latitude of 23 deg. 25' S., and in 210 37' E. +longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the +reef, is not above five or six miles. On the N.W. side, the reef +appears in detached pieces, between which the sea seems to break +upon the shore. Small as the island is, there are hills in it of a +considerable elevation. At the foot of the hills, is a narrow border +of flat land, running quite round it, edged with a white sand beach. +The hills are covered with grass, or some other herbage, except a few +steep rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interspersed to +their summits. But the plantations are more numerous in some of the +vallies, and the flat border is quite covered with high, strong trees, +whose different kinds we could not discern, except some cocoa-palms, +and a few of the _etoa_. According to the information of the men in +the canoes, their island is stocked with hogs and fowls, and produces +the several fruits and roots that are found at the other islands in +this part of the Pacific Ocean. + +We had an opportunity, from the conversation we had with those who +came off to us, of satisfying ourselves, that the inhabitants of +Toobouai speak the Otaheite language, a circumstance that indubitably +proves them to be of the same nation. Those of them whom we saw in the +canoes were a stout copper-coloured people, with straight black hair, +which some of them wore tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and +others flowing about the shoulders. Their faces were somewhat round +and full, but the features, upon the whole, rather flat, and their +countenances seemed to express some degree of natural ferocity. They +had no covering but a piece of narrow stuff wrapped about the waist, +and made to pass between the thighs, to cover the adjoining parts; +but some of those whom we saw upon the beach, where about a hundred +persons had assembled, were entirely clothed with a kind of white +garment. We could observe, that some of our visitors in the canoes +wore pearl shells hang about the neck as an ornament. One of them kept +blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed near two feet long +was fixed; at first, with a continued tone of the same kind, but he +afterward converted it into a kind of musical instrument, perpetually +repeating two or three notes, with the same strength. What the blowing +the conch portended, I cannot say, but I never found it the messenger +of peace. + +Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and two feet above +the surface of the water, as they floated. The fore part projected a +little, and had a notch cut across, as if intended to represent the +mouth of some animal. The after part rose, with a gentle curve, to the +height of two or three feet, turning gradually smaller, and, as well +as the upper part of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the +sides, which were perpendicular, were curiously incrustated with flat +white shells, disposed nearly in concentric semicircles, with the +curve upward. One of the canoes carried seven, and the other eight +men, and they were managed with small paddles, whose blades were +nearly round. Each of them had a pretty long outrigger; and they +sometimes paddled, with the two opposite sides together so close, that +they seemed to be one boat with two outriggers, the rowers turning +their faces occasionally to the stern, and pulling that way, without +paddling the canoes round. When they saw us determined to leave them, +they stood up in their canoes, and repeated something very loudly in +concert, but we could not tell whether this was meant as a mark of +their friendship or enmity. It is certain, however, that they had no +weapons with them, nor could we perceive with our glasses that those +on shore had any.[2] + +[Footnote 2: This is the island on which Fletcher Christian, chief +mutineer of the Bounty, attempted to form a settlement in 1789, as we +shall have occasion to notice when treating of another voyage.--E.] + +After leaving this island, from the discovery of which future +navigators may possibly derive some advantage, I steered to the N. +with a fresh gale at E. by S., and, at day-break in the morning of +the 12th, we saw the island of Maitea. Soon after, Otaheite made its +appearance; and at noon, it extended from S.W. by W. to W.N.W.; the +point of Oheitepeha bay bearing W., about four leagues distant. I +steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what +refreshments I could from the S.E. part of the island, before I went +down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which station I expected +my principal supply. We had a fresh gale easterly, till two o'clock +in the afternoon, when, being about a league from the bay, the wind +suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light airs from +every direction, and calms by turns. This lasted about two hours. Then +we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the E. These carried us before +the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and attempted in vain +to work in to gain the anchoring-place. So that at last about nine +o'clock, we were obliged to stand out, and to spend the night at sea. + +When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the +ship, each conducted by two or three men; but, as they were common +fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They +did not even seem to perceive that he was one of their countrymen, +although they conversed with him for some time. At length, a chief +whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who +chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four +more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain +Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or +striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a +perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his +brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red +feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known amongst +the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely +turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged +that they might be _tayos_ (friends), and exchange names. Omai +accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red +feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But +it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but +his property, they were in love with. Had he not shewn to them +his treasure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greatest +estimation at the island, I question much whether they would have +bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first reception +amongst his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be otherwise; +but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with +which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would +be the means of raising him into consequence, and of making him +respected, and even courted by the first persons throughout the extent +of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had he +conducted himself with any degree of prudence; but, instead of it, I +am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice +of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by +every designing knave. From the natives who came off to us, in +the course of this day, we learnt that two ships had twice been in +Oheitepeha Bay, since my last visit to this island in 1774, and that +they had left animals there such as we had on board. But, on farther +enquiry, we found they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and the +male of some other animal, which, from the imperfect description now +given us, we could not find out. They told us that these ships had +come from a place called _Reema_, by which we guessed that Lima, +the capital of Peru, was meant, and that these late visitors were +Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they came, they built +a house, and left four men behind them, viz. two priests, a boy or +servant, and a fourth person called Mateema, who was much spoken of +at this time, carrying away with them, when they sailed, four of +the natives; that, in about ten months, the same two ships returned, +bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima, +and that, after a short stay, they took away their own people; but +that the house which they had built was left standing. + +The important news of red feathers being on board our ships, having +been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to +break, next morning, than we were surrounded by a multitude of canoes, +crowded with people, bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first, +a quantity of feathers, not greater than what might be got from a +tom-tit, would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But, as +almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of this precious +article of trade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent. +before night. However, even then, the balance was much in our favour, +and red feathers continued to preserve their superiority over every +other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unless +they received an axe in exchange; but nails and beads, and other +trinkets, which, during our former voyages, had so great a run at this +island, were now so much despised, that few would deign so much as to +look at them. + +There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine o'clock +before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where we moored with the +two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board +to see him. I was happy to observe, that, much to the honour of them +both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest +affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. + +This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored, +Omai and I went ashore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man +whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, +for he said that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under +one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger +canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, +so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. +Some called him _Olla_, or _Orra_, which is the name of the god of +Bolabola, but his own proper name was Etary. From Omai's account of +this person, I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to +him. But, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before him, and +upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which +he might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to +him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick; but, +after a little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola +man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his +mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully +with tears of joy. + +I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who +had gathered round him, and went to take a view of the house said +to be built by the strangers who had lately been here. I found it +standing at a small distance from the beach. The wooden materials +of which it was composed seemed to have been brought hither, ready +prepared, to be set up occasionally; for all the planks were numbered. +It was divided into two small rooms; and in the inner one were a +bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which +the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself, +which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built +over it. There were scuttles all around, which served as air holes; +and, perhaps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever +this should have been found necessary. At a little distance from the +front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut +the following inscription: + + _Christus vincit._ + +And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture that the +two ships were Spanish), + + _Carolus_ III. _imperat._ 1774. + +On the other side of the post I preserved the memory of the prior +visits of the English, by inscribing, + + _Georgius Tertius Rex, + Annis_ 1767, + 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777. + +The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave +of the commodore of the two ships, who had died here while they lay in +the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede. +Whatever the intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island might +be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves +with the inhabitants, who, upon every occasion, mentioned them with +the strongest expressions of esteem, and veneration. + +I met with no chief of any considerable note on this occasion, +excepting the extraordinary personage above described. Waheiadooa, the +sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now +absent; and I afterward found that he was not the same person, though +of the same name with the chief whom I had seen here during my last +voyage; but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had +succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months +before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberea was +dead; but that Otoo and all our other friends were living. + +When I returned from viewing the house and cross erected by the +Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was +with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on +board, where I had an important affair to settle. + +As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, could furnish +us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an +excellent _succedaneum_ for any artificial beverage, I was desirous of +prevailing upon my people to consent to be abridged, during our stay +here, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as +this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning some reason, +might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought it most prudent to +assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them the intent of +the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. To induce them to +undertake which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice of +the rewards offered by parliament to such of his majesty's subjects as +shall first discover a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific +Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and +also to such as shall first penetrate beyond the 39th degree of +northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find +them willing to co-operate with me in attempting, as far as might be +possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that, +to give us the best chance of succeeding, it would be necessary +to observe the utmost economy in the expenditure of our stores and +provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability +of getting a supply any where, after leaving these islands. I +strengthened my argument by reminding them that our voyage must last +at least a year longer than had been originally supposed, by our +having already lost the opportunity of getting to the north this +summer. I begged them to consider the various obstructions and +difficulties we might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships +they would labour under, if it should be found necessary to put them +to short allowance of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. +For these very substantial reasons, I submitted to them whether it +would not be better to be prudent in time, and rather than to run +the risk of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would be +most wanted, to consent to be without their grog now, when we had so +excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts to substitute in its place; +but that, after all, I left the determination entirely to their own +choice. + +I had the satisfaction to find that this proposal did not remain +a single moment under consideration; being unanimously approved of +immediately, without any objection. I ordered Captain Clerk to +make the same proposal to his people, which they also agreed to. +Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when +the companies of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might +drink the healths of their female friends in England, lest these, +amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten.[3] + +[Footnote 3: If it is to be judged of by its effects, certainly +the most suitable test of excellence, we must allow that in this +particular instance, Captain Cook displayed true eloquence. The merit, +indeed, is not inconsiderable, of inducing so great a sacrifice as his +crew now made; and, on the other hand, due commendation ought to be +allowed to their docility. This incident altogether is exceedingly +striking, and might, one should think, be very advantageously studied +by all who are in authority over vulgar minds.--E.] + +The next day, we began some necessary operations; to inspect the +provisions that were in the main and fore-hold; to get the casks of +beef and pork, and the coals out of the ground tier, and to put some +ballast in their place. The caulkers were set to work to caulk the +ship, which she stood in great need of, having at times made much +water on our passage from the Friendly Islands. I also put on shore +the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after +them while grazing; for I did not intend to leave any of them at this +part of the island. + +During the two following days, it hardly ever ceased raining. The +natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter, the news of our +arrival having rapidly spread. Waheiadooa, though at a distance, had +been informed of it; and, in the afternoon of the 16th, a chief, named +Etorea, under whose tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as a present +from him, and acquainted me that he himself would be with us the day +after. And so it proved; for I received a message from him the next +morning, notifying his arrival, and desiring I would go ashore to meet +him. Accordingly, Omai and I prepared to pay him a formal visit. On +this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, +not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of +Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a +strange medley of all that he was possessed of. + +Thus equipped, on our landing, we first visited Etary, who, carried +on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house, where he was set +down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. I caused a piece +of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on which I laid the +presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended +by his mother, and several principal men, who all seated themselves at +the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who sat by me, made +a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which +was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the +opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai, and both +of them were answered from the same quarter. These orations were +entirely about my arrival, and connexions with them. The person who +spoke last told me, among other things, that the men of _Reema_, that +is, the Spaniards, had desired them not to suffer me to come into +Oheitepeha Bay, if I should return any more to the island, for that it +belonged to them; but that they were so far from paying any regard to +this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of +the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks +very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of +accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length, the +young chief was directed by his attendants to come and embrace me, +and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged +names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on +board to dinner. + +Omai had prepared a _maro_, composed of red and yellow feathers, which +he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole island; and, considering +where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I +could to persuade him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on +board till an opportunity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with +his own hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and +fidelity of his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would serve him +but to carry it ashore on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, +to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the +royal _maro_. He thought by this management that he should oblige both +chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the +most consequence to him, without gaining any reward from the other. +What I had foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the _maro_ for +himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers, not the +twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent present. + +On the 19th, this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen +hogs, a quantity of fruit, and some cloth. In the evening, we played +off some fire-works, which both astonished and entertained the +numerous spectators. + +This day, some of our gentlemen in their walks found what they were +pleased to call a Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed, from their account, +this was not to be doubted, for they described the altar, and every +other constituent part of such a place of worship. However, as they +mentioned, at the same time, that two men who had the care of it, +would not suffer them to go in, I thought that they might be mistaken, +and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. The supposed +chapel proved to be a _toopapaoo_, in which the remains of the late +Waheiadooa lay, as it were, in state. It was in a pretty large +house, which was inclosed with a low pallisade. The _toopapaoo_ was +uncommonly neat, and resembled one of those little houses or awnings +belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps it had originally been +employed for that purpose. It was covered and hung round with cloth +and mats of different colours, so as to have a pretty effect. There +was one piece of scarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length, +conspicuous among the other ornaments, which, no doubt, had been a +present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few tassels of feathers, +which our gentlemen supposed to be silk, suggested to them the idea +of a chapel, for, whatever else was wanting to create a resemblance, +their imagination supplied; and, if they had not previously known that +there had been Spaniards lately here, they could not possibly have +made the mistake. Small offerings of fruit and roots seemed to be +daily made at this shrine, as some pieces were quite fresh. These +were deposited upon a _whatta_, or altar, which stood without the +pallisades; and within these we were not permitted to enter. Two men +constantly attended night and day, not only to watch over the place, +but also to dress and undress the _toopapaoo_. For when I first went +to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled up; but, +at my request, the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing +themselves in clean white robes. They told me that the chief had been +dead twenty months. + +Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other +necessary operations, on the 22d, I brought off the cattle and sheep +which had been put on shore here to graze, and made ready for sea. + +In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I +landed to take leave of the young chief. While we were with him, +one of those enthusiastic persons whom they call _Eatooas_, from a +persuasion that they are possessed with the spirit of the divinity, +came and stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not in +his right senses; and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain +leaves, wrapped round his waist. He spoke in a low squeaking voice, so +as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Omai said that he +comprehended him perfectly, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to +go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never heard that he +intended, nor had I ever made such a proposal to him. The _Eatooa_ +also foretold that the ships would not get to Matavai that day. But +in this he was mistaken; though appearances now rather favoured his +prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. While +he was prophesying, there fell a very heavy shower of rain, which made +every one run for shelter but himself, who seemed not to regard it. He +remained squeaking by us about half an hour, and then retired. No one +paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed at him. I +asked the chief what he was, whether an _Earee_, or a _Toutou_? and +the answer I received was, that he was _taata eno_; that is, a bad +man. And yet, notwithstanding this, and the little notice any of the +natives seemed to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got +the better of their reason, that they firmly believe such persons to +be possessed with the spirit of the _Eatooa_. Omai seemed to be very +well instructed about them. He said that, during the fits that +come upon them, they know nobody, not even their most intimate +acquaintances; and that, if any one of them happens to be a man of +property, he will very often give away every moveable he is possessed +of, if his friends do not put them out of his reach; and, when he +recovers, will enquire what had become of those very things which +he had but just before distributed, not seeming to have the least +remembrance of what he had done while the fit was upon him.[4] + +[Footnote 4: What is the origin of that singular notion which is found +amongst the lower orders in most countries, that divine inspiration +is often consequent on temporary or continued derangement? Surely it +cannot be derived from any correct opinions respecting the Author of +truth and knowledge. We must ascribe it, then, to ignorance, and +some feeling of dread as to his power; or rather perhaps, we ought +to consider it as the hasty offspring of surprise, on the occasional +display of reason, even in a common degree, where the faculties are +understood to be disordered. Still it is singular, that the observers +should have recourse for explanation to so injurious and so improbable +a supposition, as that of supernatural agency. What has often, been +said of sol-lunar and astral influence on the human mind, the opinion +of which is pretty widely spread over the world, may be interpreted +so as perfectly to agree with the theoretical solution of the question +now proposed, the heavenly bodies being amongst the first and the most +generally established objects of religious apprehension and worship. +It is curious enough, that what may be called the converse of the +proposition, viz. that derangement follows or is accompanied with +inspiration, whether religious or common, should almost as extensively +have formed a part of the popular creed. The reason of this notion +again, is not altogether the same as that of the former; it has its +origin probably in the observation, that enthusiasm with respect to +any one subject, which, in the present case, is to be regarded as the +appearance or expression of inspiration, usually unfits a person +for the requisite attention to any other. The language of mankind +accordingly quite falls in with this observation, and nothing is more +general than to speak of a man being mad, who exhibits a more than +ordinary ardour in the pursuit of some isolated object. Still, +however, there seems a tacit acknowledgement amongst mankind, that the +human mind can profitably attend to only one thing at a time, and +that all excellence in any pursuit is the result of restricted +unintermitting application: And hence it is, that enthusiasm, though +perhaps admitted to be allied to one of the highest evils with +which our nature can be visited, is nevertheless imagined to be an +indication of superior strength of intellect. The weakest minds, +on the contrary, are the most apprehensive of ridicule, and in +consequence are most cautious, by a seeming indifference as to +objects, to avoid the dangerous imputation of a decided partiality. +Such persons, however, forming undoubtedly the greater portion +of every society, console themselves and one another under the +consciousness of debility, by the sense of their safety, and by the +fashionable custom of dealing out wise reflections on those more +enterprising minds, whose eccentricities or ardour, provoke their +admiration.--E.] + +As soon as I got on board, a light breeze springing up at east, we got +under sail, and steered for Matavai Bay, where the Resolution anchored +the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in till the next +morning; so that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled. + + +SECTION II. + +_Interview with Otoo, King of the Island.--Imprudent Conduct of +Omai.--Employments on Shore.--European Animals landed.--Particulars +about a Native who had visited Lima.--About Oedidee--A Revolt +in Eimeo.--War with that Island determined upon, in a Council of +Chiefs.--A human Sacrifice on that Account.--A particular Relation +of the Ceremonies at the great Morai, where the Sacrifice was +offered.--Other barbarous Customs of this People._ + +About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of the whole island, +attended by a great number of canoes full of people, came from Oparre, +his place of residence and having landed on Matavai Point, sent a +message on board, expressing his desire to see me there. Accordingly +I landed, accompanied by Omai, and some of the officers. We found a +prodigious number of people assembled on this occasion, and in the +midst of them was the king, attended by his father, his two brothers, +and three sisters. I went up first and saluted him, being followed by +Omai, who kneeled and embraced his legs. He had prepared himself for +this ceremony, by dressing himself in his very best suit of clothes, +and behaved with a great deal of respect and modesty. Nevertheless, +very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in +producing this cold reception. He made the chief a present of a large +piece of red feathers, and about two or three yards of gold cloth; and +I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, +what was of more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red +feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. + +After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the whole royal +family accompanied me on board, followed by several canoes, laden with +all kinds of provisions, in quantity sufficient to have served the +companies of both ships for a week. Each of the family owned, or +pretended to own, a part; so that I had a present from every one of +them, and every one of them had a separate present in return from me, +which was the great object in view. Soon after, the king's mother, who +had not been present at the first interview, came on board, bringing +with her a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between +me and Omai. For, although he was but little noticed at first by his +countrymen, they no sooner gained the knowledge of his riches, than +they began to court his friendship. I encouraged this as much as I +could, for it was my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave +all my European animals at this island, I thought he would be able to +give some instruction about the management of them, and about their +use. Besides, I knew and saw, that the farther he was from his native +island, he would be the better respected. But, unfortunately, poor +Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a +manner, that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other +person of note in Otaheite. He associated with none but vagabonds and +strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him. And, if I had not +interfered, they would not have left him a single article worth the +carrying from the island. This necessarily drew upon him the ill-will +of the principal chiefs, who found that they could not procure, from +any one in the ships, such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on the +lowest of the people, his companions. + +As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, +taking with us the poultry, with which we were to stock the island. +They consisted of a peacock and hen (which Lord Besborough was so kind +as to send me for this purpose, a few days before I left London); a +turkey-cock and hen; one gander, and three geese; a drake and four +ducks. All these I left at Oparre, in the possession of Otoo; and +the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. We found there +a gander, which the natives told us, was the same that Captain Wallis +had given to Oberea ten years before; several goats, and the Spanish +bull, whom they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a +finer animal of his kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had +been brought from Oheitepeha to this place, in order to be shipped +for Bolabola. But it passes my comprehension, how they can contrive to +carry him in one of their canoes. If we had not arrived, it would have +been of little consequence who had the property of him, as, without +a cow, he could be of no use; and none had been left with him. Though +the natives told us, that there were cows on board the Spanish ships, +and that they took them away with them, I cannot believe this, and +should rather suppose, that they had died in the passage from Lima. +The next day, I sent the three cows, that I had on board, to this +bull; and the bull, which I had brought, the horse and mare, and +sheep, I put ashore at Matavai. + +Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found my self lightened +of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation that attended the +bringing this living cargo thus far, is hardly to be conceived. But +the satisfaction that I felt, in having been so fortunate as to fulfil +his majesty's humane design, in sending such valuable animals, to +supply the wants of two worthy nations, sufficiently recompensed +me for the many anxious hours I had passed, before this subordinate +object of my voyage could be carried into execution. + +As I intended to make some stay here, we set up the two observatories +on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them, two tents were pitched for the +reception of a guard, and of such people as it might be necessary to +leave on shore, in different departments. At this station, I +entrusted the command to Mr King, who, at the same time, attended the +observations, for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper, and other +purposes. During our stay, various necessary operations employed the +crews of both ships. The Discovery's main-mast was carried ashore, +and made as good as ever. Our sails and water-casks were repaired, the +ships were caulked, and the rigging all overhauled. We also inspected +all the bread that we had on board in casks; and had the satisfaction +to find that but little of it was damaged. + +On the 26th, I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, and planted +it with several articles, very few of which, I believe, the natives, +will ever look after. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple +plants, were in a fair way of succeeding before we left the place. I +had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees. These I +also planted here; and they can hardly fail of success, unless their +growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity, which +destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A number of +the natives got together to taste the first fruit it bore; but, as +the grapes were still sour, they considered it as little better than +poison, and it was unanimously determined to tread it under foot. +In that state, Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the +discovery. For he had a full confidence, that, if he had but grapes, +he could easily make wine. Accordingly, he had several slips cut off +from the tree, to carry away with him; and we pruned and put in order +the remains of it. Probably, grown wise by Omai's instructions, they +may now suffer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so hasty +a sentence upon it again. + +We had not been eight and forty hours at anchor in Matavai Bay, before +we were visited by all our old friends, whose names are recorded in +the account of my last voyage. Not one of them came empty-handed; so +that we had more provisions than we knew what to do with. What was +still more, we were under no apprehensions of exhausting the island, +which presented to our eyes every mark of the most exuberant plenty, +in every article of refreshment. + +Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives, whom the Spaniards +had carried with them to Lima, paid us a visit; but, in his +external appearance, he was not distinguishable from the rest of his +countrymen. However, he had not forgot some Spanish words which he +had acquired, though he pronounced them badly. Amongst them, the most +frequent were, _si Sennor_; and, when a stranger was introduced to +him, he did not fail to rise up and accost him, as well as he could. + +We also found here the young man whom we called Oedidee, but whose +real name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and +brought him back in 1774; after he had visited the Friendly Islands, +New Zealand, Easter Island, and the Marqueses, and been on board my +ship, in that extensive navigation, about seven months. He was, at +least, as tenacious of his good breeding, as the man who had been +at Lima; and _yes, Sir_, or _if you please, Sir_, were as frequently +repeated by him, as _si Sennor_ was by the other. Heete-heete, who +is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in Otaheite about three months +before, with no other intention, that we could learn, than to gratify +his curiosity, or, perhaps, some other favourite passion; which +are very often the only objects of the pursuit of other travelling +gentlemen. It was evident, however, that he preferred the modes, and +even garb, of his countrymen, to ours. For, though I gave him some +clothes, which our Admiralty Board had been pleased to send for his +use (to which I added a chest of tools, and a few other articles, as a +present from myself), he declined wearing them, after a few days. This +instance, and that of the person who had been at Lima, may be urged +as a proof of the strong propensity natural to man, of returning to +habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. +And, perhaps, it may be concluded, that even Omai, who had imbibed +almost the whole English manners, will, in a very short time after our +leaving him, like Oedidee, and the visiter of Lima, return to his own +native garments.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Captain Cook's remark has often been exemplified in other +instances. The tendency to revert to barbarism is so strong, as to +need to be continually checked by the despotism of refined manners, +and all the healthful emulations of civilized societies. Perhaps the +rather harsh observation of Dr Johnson, that there is always a great +deal of _scoundrelism_ in a low man, is more strictly applicable to +the cases of savages in general, than to even the meanest member of +any cultivated community. But in the case of a superiorly endowed +individual situate amongst a mass of ruder beings, to all of whom he +is attached by the strongest ties of affection and early acquaintance, +another powerfully deranging cause is at work in addition to the +natural tendency to degenerate, viz. the necessity of accommodating +himself to established customs and opinions. The former agent alone, +we know, has often degraded Europeans. Is it to be thought wonderful +then, that, where both principles operate, a man of Omai's character +should speedily relinquish foreign acquirements, and retrograde into +his original barbarity?--E.] + +In the morning of the 27th, a man came from Oheitepeha, and told us, +that two Spanish ships had anchored in that bay the night before; and, +in confirmation of this intelligence, he produced a piece of coarse +blue cloth, which, he said, he got out of one of the ships, and which, +indeed, to appearance, was almost quite new. He added, that Mateema +was in one of the ships, and that they were to come down to Matavai +in a day or two. Some other circumstances which he mentioned, with +the foregoing ones, gave the story so much the air of truth, that I +dispatched Lieutenant Williamson in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha +bay; and, in the mean time, I put the ships into a proper posture +of defence. For, though England and Spain were in peace when I left +Europe, for aught I knew, a different scene might, by this time, have +opened. However, on farther enquiry, we had reason to think that the +fellow who brought the intelligence had imposed upon us; and this was +put beyond all doubt, when Mr Williamson returned next day, who made +his report to me, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no +ships were there now, and that none had been there since we left it. +The people of this part of the island where we now were, indeed, told +us, from the beginning, that it was a fiction invented by those +of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we were at a loss to +conceive, unless they supposed that the report would have some effect +in making us quit the island, and, by that means, deprive the people +of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might reap from our ships +continuing there; the inhabitants of the two parts of the island being +inveterate enemies to each other. + +From the time of our arrival at Matavai, the weather had been very +unsettled, with more or less rain every day, till the 29th; before +which we were not able to get equal altitudes of the sun for +ascertaining the going of the time-keeper. The same cause also +retarded the caulking and other necessary repairs of the ships. + +In the evening of this day, the natives made a precipitate retreat, +both from on board the ships, and from our station on shore. For what +reason, we could not, at first, learn; though, in general, we guessed +it arose from their knowing that some theft had been committed, and +apprehending punishment on that account. At length, I understood what +had happened. One of the surgeon's mates had been in the country to +purchase curiosities, and had taken with him four hatchets for that +purpose. Having employed one of the natives to carry them for him, the +fellow took an opportunity to run off with so valuable a prize. This +was the cause of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself, and his +whole family, had joined; and it was with difficulty that I stopped +them, after following them two or three miles. As I had resolved to +take no measures for the recovery of the hatchets, in order to put +my people upon their guard against such negligence for the future, +I found no difficulty in bringing the natives back, and in restoring +every thing to its usual tranquillity. + +Hitherto, the attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to +us; but, next morning, a new scene of business opened, by the arrival +of some messengers from Eimeo, or (as it is much oftener called by the +natives) Morea,[6] with intelligence, that the people in that island +were in arms; and that Otoo's partizans there had been worsted, and +obliged to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two +islands, which commenced in 1774, as mentioned in the account of +my last voyage, had, it seems, partly subsisted ever since. The +formidable armament which I saw at that time, and described, had +sailed soon after I then left Otaheite; but the malcontents of Eimeo +had made so stout a resistance, that the fleet had returned without +effecting much; and now another expedition was necessary. + +[Footnote 6: Morea, according to Dr Forster, is a district in Eimeo. +See his _Observations_, p. 217.] + +On the arrival of these messengers, all the chiefs, who happened to +be at Matavai, assembled at Otoo's house, where I actually was at the +time, and had the honour to be admitted into their council. One of +the messengers opened the business of the assembly, in a speech +of considerable length. But I understood little of it, besides its +general purport, which was to explain the situation of affairs in +Eimeo; and to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to arm on +the occasion. This opinion was combated by others who were against +commencing hostilities; and the debate was carried on with great +order, no more than one man speaking at a time. At last, they became +very noisy, and I expected that our meeting would have ended like a +Polish diet. But the contending great men cooled as fast as they +grew warm, and order was soon restored. At length, the party for war +prevailed; and it was determined, that a strong force should be sent +to assist their friends in Eimeo. But this resolution was far from +being unanimous. Otoo, during the whole debate, remained silent; +except that, now and then, he addressed a word or two to the speakers. +Those of the council, who were for prosecuting the war, applied to me +for my assistance; and all of them wanted to know what part I would +take. Omai was sent for to be my interpreter; but, as he could not be +found, I was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I +could, that as I was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and +as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think +myself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With this +declaration they either were, or seemed, satisfied. The assembly then +broke up; but, before I left them, Otoo desired me to come to him in +the afternoon, and to bring Omai with me. + +Accordingly, a party of us waited upon him at the appointed time; and +we were conducted by him to his father, in whose presence the dispute +with Eimeo was again talked over. Being very desirous of devising some +method to bring about an accommodation, I sounded the old chief on +that head. But we found him deaf to any such proposal, and fully +determined to prosecute the war. He repeated the solicitations which +I had already resisted, about giving them my assistance. On our +enquiring into the cause of the war, we were told, that, some years +ago, a brother of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the +request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to be their king; +but that he had not been there a week before Maheine, having caused +him to be killed, set up for himself, in opposition to Tierataboonooe, +his sister's son, who became the lawful heir; or else had been pitched +upon, by the people of Otaheite, to succeed to the government on the +death of the other. + +Towha, who was a relation of Otoo, and chief of the district of +Tettaha, a man of much weight in the island, and who had been +commander-in-chief of the armament fitted out against Eimeo in 1774, +happened not to be at Matavai at this time; and, consequently, was not +present at any of these consultations. It, however, appeared that he +was no stranger to what was transacted; and that he entered with more +spirit into the affair than any other chief. For, early in the morning +of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo +that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the _Eatooa_, to implore +the assistance of the god against Eimeo. This act of worship was to be +performed at the great _Morai_ at Attahooroo; and Otoo's presence, it +seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occasion. + +That the offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious +institutions of this island, had been mentioned by Mons. de +Bougainville, on the authority of the native whom he carried with +him to France. During my last visit to Otaheite, and while I had +opportunities of conversing with Omai on the subject, I had satisfied +myself that there was too much reason to admit that such a practice, +however inconsistent with the general humanity of the people, was here +adopted. But as this was one of those extraordinary facts, about which +many are apt to retain doubts, unless the relater himself has had +ocular proof to confirm what he had heard from others, I thought this +a good opportunity of obtaining the highest evidence of its certainty, +by being present myself at the solemnity; and, accordingly, proposed +to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany him. To this he readily +consented; and we immediately set out in my boat, with my old friend +Potatou, Mr Anderson, and Mr Webber; Omai following in a canoe. + +In our way we landed upon a little island, which lies off Tettaha, +where we found Towha and his retinue. After some little conversation +between the two chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed +himself to me, asking my assistance. When I excused myself, he seemed +angry, thinking it strange, that I, who had always declared myself to +be the friend of their island, would not now go and fight against its +enemies. Before we parted, he gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, +tied up in a tuft, and a lean half-starved dog was put into a canoe +that was to accompany us. We then embarked again, taking on board a +priest who was to assist at the solemnity. + +As soon as we landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o'clock in the +afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that the seamen might be ordered +to remain in the boat; and that Mr Anderson, Mr Webber, and myself, +might take off our hats as soon as we should come to the _morai_, to +which we immediately proceeded, attended by a great many men and some +boys, but not one woman. We found four priests, and their attendants, +or assistants, waiting for us. The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a +small canoe that lay on the beach, and partly in the wash of the +sea, fronting the _morai_. Two of the priests, with some of their +attendants, were sitting by the canoe, the others at the _morai_. Our +company stopped about twenty or thirty paces from the priests. Here +Otoo placed himself; we, and a few others, standing by him, while the +bulk of the people remained at a greater distance. + +The ceremonies now began. One of the priest's attendants brought a +young plantain-tree, and laid it down before Otoo. Another approached +with a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the +cocoa-nut husk, with which he touched one of the king's feet, and then +retired with it to his companions. One of the priests, seated at +the _morai_, facing those who were upon the beach, now began a long +prayer, and at certain times, sent down young plantain-trees, which +were laid upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, a man, who stood by +the officiating priest, held in his hands two bundles, seemingly of +cloth. In one of them, as we afterward found, was the royal _maro_; +and the other, if I may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the +_Eatooa_. As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the _morai_, +with their attendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, +carrying with them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers; +during which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at different +times, from off the sacrifice, which was partly wrapped up in cocoa +leaves and small branches. It was now taken out of the canoe, and +laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea. The priests placed +themselves around it, some sitting and others standing, and one or +more of them repeated sentences for about ten minutes. The dead body +was now uncovered, by removing the leaves and branches, and laid in +a parallel direction with the sea-shore. One of the priests then +standing at the feet of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was +at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand a tuft of red +feathers. In the course of this prayer, some hair was pulled off the +head of the sacrifice, and the left eye taken out, both which were +presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not however +touch it, but gave to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers +which he had received from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, was +carried back to the priests. Soon after, Otoo sent to them another +piece of feathers, which he had given me in the morning to keep in my +pocket. During some part of this last ceremony, a kingfisher making a +noise in the trees, Otoo turned to me, saying, "That is the _Eatooa_" +and seemed to look upon it to be a good omen. + +The body was then carried a little way, with its head towards the +_morai_, and laid under a tree, near which were fixed three broad thin +pieces of wood, differently but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth +were laid on a part of the _morai_, and the tufts of red feathers +were placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the priests took +their stations, and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. +He who seemed to be the chief priest sat at a small distance, and +spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and gestures, +so that he seemed often to expostulate with the dead person, to +whom he constantly addressed himself; and sometimes asked several +questions, seemingly with respect to the propriety of his having been +killed. At other times, he made several demands, as if the deceased +either now had power himself, or interest with the divinity, to engage +him to comply with such requests. Amongst which, we understood, he +asked him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the hogs, women, and +other things of the island, into their hands; which was, indeed, the +express intention of the sacrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which +lasted near half an hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, accompanied +by two other priests; and in which Potatou and some others joined. In +the course of this prayer, some more hair was plucked by a priest from +the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After this, +the chief priest prayed alone, holding in his hand the feathers which +came from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to another, who +prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of feathers were laid upon +the bundles of cloth, which closed the ceremony at this place. + +The corpse was then carried up to the most conspicuous part of the +_morai_, with the feathers, the two bundles of cloth, and the drums; +the last of which beat slowly. The feathers and bundles were laid +against the pile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. +The priests having again seated themselves round it, renewed their +prayers, while some of their attendants dug a hole about two feet +deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over +with earth and stones. While they were putting him into the grave, +a boy squeaked aloud, and Omai said to me, that it was the _Eatooa_. +During this time, a fire having been made, the dog before-mentioned, +was produced, and killed, by twisting his neck and suffocating him. +The hair was singed off, and the entrails taken out, and thrown into +the fire, where they were left to consume. But the heart, liver, +and kidneys were only roasted, by being laid on hot stones for a +few minutes; and the body of the dog, after being besmeared with the +blood, which had been collected into a cocoa-nut shell, and dried over +the fire, was, with the liver, &c. carried and laid down before +the priests, who sat praying round the grave. They continued their +ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two men, at intervals, +beat on two drums very loud; and a boy screamed, as before, in a loud, +shrill voice, three different times. This, as we were told, was to +invite the _Eatooa_ to feast on the banquet that they had prepared for +him. As soon as the priests had ended their prayers, the carcass +of the dog, with what belonged to it, were laid on a _whatta_, or +scaffold, about six feet high, that stood close by, on which lay the +remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had lately been +sacrificed, and, at this time, emitted an intolerable stench. This +kept us at a greater distance, than would otherwise have been required +of us. For after the victim was removed from the sea-side toward the +_morai_, we were allowed to approach as near as we pleased. Indeed, +after that, neither seriousness nor attention were much observed by +the spectators. When the dog was put upon the _whatta_, the priests +and attendants gave a kind of shout, which closed the ceremonies for +the present. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a +house belonging to Potatou, where we were entertained, and lodged +for the night. We had been told that the religious rites were to be +renewed in the morning; and I would not leave the place, while any +thing remained to be seen. + +Being unwilling to lose any part of the solemnity, some of us repaired +to the scene of action pretty early, but found nothing going forward. +However, soon after a pig was sacrificed, and laid upon the same +_whatta_ with the others. About eight o'clock, Otoo took us again to +the _morai_, where the priests, and a great number of men, were by +this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which we +had seen them deposited the preceding evening; the two drums stood in +the front of the _morai_, but somewhat nearer it than before, and the +priests were beyond them. Otoo placed himself between the two drums, +and desired me to stand by him. + +The ceremony began, as usual, with bringing a young plantain-tree, and +laying it down at the king's feet. After this a prayer was repeated +by the priests, who held in their hands several tufts of red feathers, +and also a plume of ostrich feathers, which I had given to Otoo on my +first arrival, and had been consecrated to this use. When the priests +had made an end of the prayer, they changed their station, placing +themselves between us and the _morai_; and one of them, the same +person who had acted the principal part the day before, began another +prayer, which lasted about half an hour. During the continuance of +this, the tufts of feathers were, one by one, carried and laid upon +the ark of the _Eatooa_. + +Some little time after, four pigs were produced, one of which was +immediately killed, and the others were taken to a sty hard by, +probably reserved for some future occasion of sacrifice. One of the +bundles was now untied; and it was found, as I have before observed, +to contain the _maro_, with which these people invest their kings, +and which seems to answer, in some degree, to the European ensigns +of royalty, it was carefully taken out of the cloth, in which, it had +been wrapped up, and spread at full length upon the ground before the +priests. It is a girdle, about five yards long; and fifteen inches +broad; and, from its name, seems to be put on in the same manner as +is the common _maro_, or piece of cloth, used by these people to wrap +round the waist. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers, but +mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon the island. The +one end was bordered with eight pieces, each about the size and shape +of a horse-shoe, having their edges fringed with black feathers. The +other end was forked, and the points were of different lengths. +The feathers were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, and +otherwise so disposed, as to produce a pleasing effect. They had been +first pasted or fixed upon some of their own country cloth, and +then sewed to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis had +displayed, and left flying ashore, the first time that he landed at +Matavai. This was what they told us; and we had no reason to doubt it, +as we could easily trace the remains of an English pendant. About six +or eight inches square of the _maro_ was unornamented, there being +no feathers upon that space, except a few that had been sent by +Waheiadooa, as already mentioned. The priests made a long prayer, +relative to this part of the ceremony; and, if I mistook not, they +called it the prayer of the _maro_. When it was finished, the badge +of royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and deposited +again upon the _morai_. + +The other bundle, which I have distinguished by the name of the ark, +was next opened at one end. But we were not allowed to go near enough +to examine its mysterious contents. The information we received was, +that the _Eatooa_, to whom they had been sacrificing, and whose +name is _Ooro_, was concealed in it, or rather what is supposed to +represent him. This sacred repository is made of the twisted fibres +of the husk of the cocoa-nut, shaped somewhat like a large fig, or +sugar-loaf, that is, roundish, with one end much thicker than the +other. We had very often got small ones from different people, but +never knew their use before. + +By this time, the pig that had been killed, was cleaned, and the +entrails taken out. These happened to have a considerable share of +those convulsive motions, which often appear, in different parts, +after an animal is killed; and this was considered by the spectators +as a very favourable omen to the expedition on account of which the +sacrifices had been offered. After being exposed for some time, that +those who chose might examine their appearances, the entrails were +carried to the priests, and laid down before them. While one of their +number prayed, another inspected the entrails more narrowly, and kept +turning them gently with a stick. When they had been sufficiently +examined, they were thrown into the fire, and left to consume. The +sacrificed pig and its liver, &c. were now put upon the _whatta_, +where the dog had been deposited the day before; and then all the +feathers, except the ostrich plume, were enclosed with the _Eatooa_ in +the ark, and the solemnity finally closed. + +Four double canoes lay upon the beach, before the place of sacrifice, +all the morning. On the fore part of each of these was fixed a small +platform, covered with palm-leaves, tied in mysterious knots; and +this also is called a _morai_. Some cocoa-nuts, plantains, pieces +of bread-fruit, fish, and other things, lay upon each of these naval +_morais_. We were told that they belonged to the _Eatooa_, and that +they were to attend the fleet designed to go against Eimeo. + +The unhappy victim, offered to the object of their worship upon this +occasion, seemed to be a middle-aged man; and, as we were told, was a +_toutou_, that is, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after +all my enquiries, I could not learn that he had been pitched upon on +account of any particular crime committed by him meriting death. It +is certain, however, that they generally make choice of such guilty +persons for their sacrifices, or else of common, low fellows who +stroll about, from place to place, and from island to island, without +having any fixed abode, or any visible way of getting an honest +livelihood; of which description of men, enough are to be met with at +these islands. Having had an opportunity of examining the appearance +of the body of the poor sufferer now offered up, I could observe, that +it was bloody about the head and face, and a good deal bruised upon +the right temple, which marked the manner of his being killed. And +we were told, that he had been privately knocked on the head with a +stone. + +Those who are devoted to suffer, in order to perform this bloody act +of worship, are never apprised of their fate, till the blow is given +that puts an end to their existence. Whenever any one of the +great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice necessary, on any particular +emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his trusty servants +are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and put him to death with +a club, or by stoning him. The king is next acquainted with it, +whose presence, at the solemn rites that follow, is, as I was told, +absolutely necessary; and indeed on the present occasion, we could +observe, that Otoo bore a principal part. The solemnity itself is +called _Poore Eree_, or chief's prayer; and the victim, who is offered +up, _Taata-taboo_, or consecrated man. This is the only instance where +we have heard the word _taboo_ used at this island, where it seems to +have the same mysterious signification as at Tonga, though it is +there applied to all cases where things are not to be touched. But +at Otaheite, the word _raa_ serves the same purpose, and is full as +extensive in its meaning. + +The _morai_, (which undoubtedly is a place of worship, sacrifice, and +burial, at the same time,) where the sacrifice was now offered, is +that where the supreme chief of the whole island is always buried, and +is appropriated to his family, and some of the principal people. It +differs little from the common ones, except in extent. Its principal +part is a large oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon each; other, +about twelve or fourteen feet high; contracted toward the top, with +a square area on each side, loosely paved with pebble stones, under +which the bones of the chiefs are buried. At a little distance from +the end nearest the sea is the place where the sacrifices are offered, +which, for a considerable extent, is also loosely paved. There is here +a very large scaffold, or _whatta_, on which the offerings of fruits +and other vegetables are laid. But the animals are deposited on a +smaller one, already mentioned, and the human sacrifices are buried +under different parts of the pavement. There are several other +reliques which ignorant superstition had scattered about this place; +such as small stones, raised in different parts of the pavement, some +with bits of cloth tied round them, others covered with it; and upon +the side of the large pile, which fronts the area, are placed a great +many pieces of carved wood, which are supposed to be sometimes the +residence of their divinities, and consequently held sacred. But one +place more particular than the rest, is a heap of stones at one end +of the large _whatta_, before which the sacrifice was offered, with a +kind of platform at one side. On this are laid the sculls of all the +human sacrifices, which are taken up after they have been several +months under ground. Just above them are placed a great number of the +pieces of wood; and it was also here, where the _maro_, and the other +bundle supposed to contain the god Ooro (and which I call the ark), +were laid during the ceremony, a circumstance which denotes its +agreement with the altar of other nations. + +It is much to be regretted, that a practice so horrid in its +own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right of +self-preservation which every one is born with, should be found still +existing; and (such is the power of superstition to counteract the +first principles of humanity!) existing amongst a people, in many +other respects, emerged from the brutal manners of savage life. What +is still worse, it is probable that these bloody rites of worship +are prevalent throughout all the wide-extended islands of the Pacific +Ocean. The similarity of customs and language, which our late voyages +have enabled us to trace, between the most distant of these islands, +makes it not unlikely that some of the more important articles of +their religious institutions should agree. And indeed we had the most +authentic information, that human sacrifices continue to be offered at +the Friendly Islands. When I described the _Natche_ at Tongataboo, I +mentioned that on the approaching sequel of that festival, we had been +told that ten men were to be sacrificed. This may give us an idea of +the extent of this religious massacre in that island. And though we +should suppose that never more than one person is sacrificed on any +single occasion at Otaheite, it is more than probable that these +occasions happen so frequently, as to make a shocking waste of the +human race, for I counted no less than forty-nine sculls of former +victims, lying before the _morai_, where we saw one more added to +the number. And as none of those sculls had as yet suffered any +considerable change from the weather, it may hence be inferred, +that no great length of time had elapsed, since, at least, this +considerable number of unhappy wretches had been offered upon this +altar of blood. + +The custom, though no consideration can make it cease to be +abominable, might be thought less detrimental in some respects, if it +served to impress any awe for the divinity or reverence for religion +upon the minds of the multitude. But this is so far from being the +case, that though a great number of people had assembled at the +_morai_ on this occasion, they did not seem to shew any proper +reverence for what was doing or saying during the celebration of the +rites. And Omai happening to arrive, after they had begun, many of the +spectators flocked round him, and were engaged the remainder of the +time in making him relate some of his adventures, which they listened +to with great attention, regardless of the solemn offices performing +by their priests. Indeed, the priests themselves, except the one who +chiefly repeated the prayers, either from their being familiarized +to such objects, or from want of confidence in the efficacy of +their institutions, observed very little of that solemnity which is +necessary to give to religious performances their due weight. Their +dress was only an ordinary one, they conversed together without +scruple, and the only attempt made by them to preserve any appearance +of decency, was by exerting their authority to prevent the people from +coming upon the very spot where the ceremonies were performed, and +to suffer us as strangers to advance a little forward. They were, +however, very candid in their answers to any questions that were put +to them concerning the institution. And particularly on being asked +what the intention of it was, they said that it was an old custom, and +was agreeable to their god, who delighted in, or in other words, came +and fed upon the sacrifices; in consequence of which, he complied with +their petitions. Upon its being objected that he could not feed on +these, as he was neither seen to do it, nor were the bodies of the +animals quickly consumed, and that as to the human victim, they +prevented his feeding on him by burying him. But to all this they +answered, that he came in the night, but invisibly, and fed only on +the soul, or immaterial part, which, according to their doctrine, +remains about the place of sacrifice, until the body of the victim be +entirely wasted by putrefaction. + +It were much to be wished, that this deluded people may learn to +entertain the same horror of murdering their fellow-creatures, in +order to furnish such an invisible banquet to their god, as they now +have of feeding corporeally on human flesh themselves. And yet we +have great reason to believe, that there was a time when they were +cannibals. We were told (and indeed partly saw it) that it is a +necessary ceremony when a poor wretch is sacrificed, for the priest to +take out the left eye. This he presents to the king, holding it to +his mouth, which he desires him to open; but instead of putting it in, +immediately withdraws it. This they call "eating the man," or "food +for the chief;" and perhaps we may observe here some traces of former +times, when the dead body was really feasted upon. + +But not to insist upon this, it is certain, that human sacrifices are +not the only barbarous custom we find still prevailing amongst this +benevolent humane people. For besides cutting out the jaw-bones of +their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about as trophies, +they, in some measure, offer their bodies as a sacrifice to the +_Eatooa_. Soon after a battle, in which they have been victors, they +collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands and bring them +to the _morai_, where, with a great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole, +and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods; but their +sculls are never after taken up. + +Their own great chiefs that fall in battle are treated in a +different manner. We were informed, that their late king Tootaha, +Tubourai-tamaide, and another chief, who fell with them in the +battle fought with those of Tiaraboo, were brought to this _morai_ at +Attahooroo. There their bowels were cut out by the priests before +the great altar, and the bodies afterward buried in three different +places, which were pointed out to us, in the great pile of stones that +compose the most conspicuous part of this _morai_. And their common +men who also fell in this battle, were all buried in one hole at the +foot of the pile. This, Omai, who was present, told me, was done the +day after the battle, with much pomp and ceremony, and in the midst +of a great concourse of people, as a thanksgiving-offering to the +_Eatooa_, for the victory they had obtained; while the vanquished had +taken refuge in the mountains. There they remained a week or ten days, +till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty set on foot, by +which it was agreed, that Otoo should be declared king of the whole +island, and the solemnity of investing him with the _maro_ was +performed at the same _morai_ with great pomp, in the presence of all +the principal men of the country.[7] + +[Footnote 7: We must trespass a little on the reader's patience as +was formerly threatened. But on so curious, and indeed so exceedingly +important a subject as human sacrifices, it is allowable to claim the +serious attention of every intelligent being. Who can withhold anxiety +from an enquiry into the reality of the fact, as a fundamental part +of religion in every nation at some period of its history--or dare to +affect indifference as to the origin and meaning of so portentous and +horrible a rite? It will be our study to be as brief as possible in +conveying the information respecting both, which every man ought to +possess, who values correct opinions respecting the moral condition of +our nature. First, then, as to the universality of the practice. +This is of course to be ascertained from testimony. And perhaps on no +subject in the history of mankind, is there a more decided agreement +in the assertions of different witnesses. We shall run over the +various nations of the earth, of whom we have any thing like +satisfactory evidence. Here we avail ourselves of the labours of +several authors, as Dr Jenkin, De Paauw, Mr Bryant, Mr Parkhurst, Dr +Magee, and others. We commence with the Egyptians, of whom alone, we +believe, any doubt as to their being implicated in the practice has +been entertained. Thus Dr Forster, in his Observations on Cook's +Second Voyage, excepts them from his remark that all the ancient +nations sacrificed men, saying that where-ever it is affirmed in old +writers that these people were addicted to it, we are to understand +them as alluding to the Arabian shepherds, who at one time subdued +Egypt. Such _was_ the opinion of the writer of this note, but more +attentive enquiry has induced him, in this instance, to disregard +the distinction. Diodorus Siculus and Plutarch, quoted by Dr Magee, +mention their sacrificing red-haired men at the tomb of Osiris; and +from other sources, it appears that they had a custom of sacrificing +a virgin to the river Nile, by flinging her into its stream. The +Phoenicians, Canaanites, Moabites, Ammonites, and other neighbouring +people, were in the habit of sacrificing their children to their +idols, especially Moloch, on certain, calamities, and for various +reasons. See on this head some of the commentators on Scripture, as +Ainsworth on Levit. 18th, and still more particularly, consult Selecta +Sacra Braunii, a work formerly referred to. The Ethiopians, according +to the Romance of Heliodorus, admitted to be good authority as to +manners, &c. sacrificed their children to the sun and moon. The +Scythians, as related in the curious description given of them by +Herodotus, in Melpom. 62, particularly honoured the god Mars, by +sacrificing to him every hundredth captive. This they did, he says, by +cutting their throats, &c. The same author informs us of the Persians, +that they had a custom of burying persons alive, generally young ones +it would seem, in honour of the river Strymon, considered by them as a +deity. Polym. 114. In this he is confirmed by Plutarch. Other writers, +also, charge the Persians with using human sacrifices, as is shewn by +Dr Magee. The same may be said of the Chinese and Indians, according +to works mentioned by that gentleman. The case of the latter people +has been made notorious by Dr Buchanan. With respect to the Grecian +states in general, we have the most indubitable evidence of the +prevalence of supplicating their gods by human sacrifices, when going +against their enemies, as we see done by the Otaheitans, and on other +occasions. The Roman history, in its early state especially, abounds +in like examples, as every reader will be prepared to prove. The +practice was shockingly prevalent amongst the Carthaginians and other +inhabitants of Africa. The writer above quoted, specifies the works +which mention it, and has enumerated the authorities for asserting the +same of a great many other ancient people, as the Getae, Leucadians, +Goths, Gauls, Heruli, Britons, Germans; besides the Arabians, Cretans, +Cyprians, Rhodians, Phocians, and the inhabitants of Chios, Lesbos, +Tenedos, and Pella. The northern nations, without exception, are +chargeable with the same enormity. Of this, satisfactory evidence has +been adduced by Dr Magee from various authors, as Mr Thorkelin in his +Essay on the Slave Trade, Mallet, in his work on Northern Antiquities, +&c. And it is well known that the evil existed amongst the Mexicans, +Peruvians, and other people of America, in a degree surpassing its +magnitude in any other country. The perusal of the present narrative, +and of other accounts of voyages, will evince the continuance of the +practice throughout more recent people. On the whole then, we assert, +that the fact of the universality of human sacrifice amongst the +various nations of the world is perfectly well authenticated. Let +us next say a word or two respecting its origin and meaning. Here +we shall find it necessary to consider the origin and meaning of +sacrifice in general, as it is self-evident that the notion of +sacrifice is previous to the selection of the subjects for it, that +of human beings differing only in degree of worth or excellence from +those of any other kind. What then could induce mankind universally to +imagine, that sacrifices of animals could be agreeable to those beings +whom they judged superior to themselves, and the proper objects of +religious adoration? Reason gives no sanction to the practice; on the +contrary, most positively condemns it, as unnecessary, unjust, cruel, +and therefore more likely to incur displeasure than to obtain favour. +Besides, it must always have been expensive, and very often dangerous, +so that we must entirely discard the notion of a sense of interest +having given occasion to it, unless we can prove, that some valuable +consequence was to result from it. This however cannot be done without +first shewing its acceptableness to the Being whose regard is thereby +solicited. There remain, perhaps, only two other motives which we can +conceive to have given origin to the custom, viz. some instinctive +principle of our nature by which we are led to it, independent of +either reason or a sense of interest, as in the case of our appetites, +and a positive injunction or command to that effect by some being +who has the requisite authority over our conduct. The author so often +alluded to, Dr Magee, who has so profoundly considered this subject in +his work on Atonement, &c. rejects the former supposition, affirming +that we have no natural instinct to gratify, in spilling the blood +of an innocent creature; and, as he has also set aside the other +two notions, of course, he adopts the latter as sufficient for the +solution of the question. The writer concurs in this opinion, but at +the same time, he thinks it of the utmost importance to observe, that +as the original injunction or command was assuredly subsequent to the +sense of moral delinquency, and was directed in the view of a +relief to the conscience of man, so the continuance of the practice, +according to any perversion of the primitive and consequently proper +institution, is always connected with, and in fact implies, the +existence of a feeling of personal demerit and danger. In other words, +he conceives there is a suitableness betwixt the operation of man's +conscience and that effectual remedy for its uneasiness to which the +original institution of animal sacrifices pointed. But it does not +follow from this, that man's conscience or reason, or any thing else +within him, could ever have made the discovery of the remedy. A sense +of his need of it, would undoubtedly set him on various efforts +to relieve himself, but this, it is probable, would be as blind a +principle as the appetite of hunger, and as much would require aid +from an external power. Among the devices to which it might have +recourse, very possibly, the notion of giving up a darling object, +ought to be included; so it would appear, thought a king of Moab, +spoken of by Micah the prophet, chap. 6th, "Shall I give my first-born +for my transgression," &c. But even admitting this, we still see the +primary difficulty remaining, viz. what reason is there for imagining +that the gift in any shape, and more especially when slaughtered, will +be accepted? We are driven then to contemplate the revelation of the +divine will as the only adequate explanation; and this, it is evident, +we must consider as having been handed down by a corrupt process of +tradition, among the various nations of the earth. It would be easy to +urge arguments in behalf of this opinion. But already the matter has +gone beyond common bounds, and the writer dare not hazard another +remark. All he shall do then, is to commend this interesting topic to +the reader's attention, and to request, that due allowances be made +for the omission of certain qualifications which are requisite for +some of the remarks now made, but which the limits of the note could +not allow to be inserted.--E.] + + +SECTION III. + +_Conference with Towha.--Heevas described.--Omai and Oedidee give +Dinners.--Fireworks exhibited.--A remarkable Present of +Cloth.--Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief.--Another +human Sacrifice.--Riding on Horseback.--Otoo's Attention to supply +Provisions, and prevent Thefts.--Animals given to him.--Etary, and +the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences.--A mock Fight of two War +Canoes.--Naval Strength of these Islands.--Manner of conducting a +War._ + +The close of the very singular scene exhibited at the _morai_, which +I have faithfully described in the last chapter, leaving us no other +business in Attahooroo, we embarked about noon, in order to return +to Matavai; and, in our way, visited Towha, who had remained on the +little island where we met him the day before. Some conversation +passed between Otoo and him, on the present posture of public affairs; +and then the latter solicited me once more to join them in their war +against Eimeo. By my positive refusal I entirely lost the good graces +of this chief. + +Before we parted, he asked us if the solemnity at which we had +been present answered our expectations; what opinion we had of its +efficacy; and whether we performed such acts of worship in our +own country? During the celebration of the horrid ceremony, we had +preserved a profound silence; but as soon as it was closed, had made +no scruple in expressing our sentiments very freely about it to Otoo, +and those who attended him; of course, therefore, I did not conceal my +detestation of it in this conversation with Towha. Besides the cruelty +of the bloody custom, I strongly urged the unreasonableness of it; +telling the chief, that such a sacrifice, far from making the _Eatooa_ +propitious to their nation, as they ignorantly believed, would be +the means of drawing down his vengeance; and that, from this very +circumstance, I took upon me to judge, that their intended expedition +against Maheine would be unsuccessful. This was venturing pretty far +upon conjecture; but still, I thought, that there was little danger +of being mistaken. For I found, that there were three parties in the +island, with regard to this war; one extremely violent for it; another +perfectly indifferent about the matter; and the third openly +declaring themselves friends to Maheine and his cause. Under these +circumstances, of disunion distracting their councils, it was not +likely that such a plan of military operations would be settled +as could insure even a probability of success. In conveying our +sentiments to Towha, on the subject of the late sacrifice, Omai was +made use of as our interpreter; and he entered into our arguments with +so much spirit, that the chief seemed to be in great wrath; especially +when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he +had done here, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged +for it. Upon this, he exclaimed, _maeno_! _maeno_! [vile! vile!] and +would not hear another word. During this debate, many of the natives +were present, chiefly the attendants and servants of Towha himself; +and when Omai began to explain the punishment that would be inflicted +in England, upon the greatest man, if he killed the meanest servant, +they seemed to listen with great attention; and were probably of a +different opinion from that of their master on this subject. + +After leaving Towha, we proceeded to Oparre, where Otoo pressed us +to spend the night. We landed in the evening; and, on our road to his +house, had an opportunity of observing in what manner these people +amuse themselves in their private _heevas_. About an hundred of them +were found sitting in a house; and in the midst of them were two +women, with an old man behind each of them beating very gently upon +a drum; and the women at intervals singing in a softer manner than I +ever heard at their other diversions. The assembly listened with great +attention; and were seemingly almost absorbed in the pleasure the +music gave them; for few took any notice of us, and the performers +never once stopped. It was almost dark before we reached Otoo's house, +where we were entertained with one of their public _heevas_, or plays, +in which his three sisters appeared as the principal characters. This +was what they call a _heeva raae_, which is of such a nature, that +nobody is to enter the house or area where it is exhibited. When +the royal sisters are the performers, this is always the case. Their +dress, on this occasion, was truly picturesque and elegant; and they +acquitted themselves, in their parts, in a very distinguished manner; +though some comic interludes, performed by four men seemed to yield +greater pleasure to the audience, which was numerous. The next morning +we proceeded to Matavai, leaving Otoo at Oparre; but his mother, +sisters, and several other women attended me on board, and Otoo +himself followed soon after. + +While Otoo and I were absent from the ships, they had been but +sparingly supplied with fruit, and had few visitors. After our return, +we again overflowed with provisions and with company. + +On the 4th, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who gave excellent +fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner, I +attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where +I found all his servants very busy getting a quantity of provisions +ready for me. Amongst other articles, there was a large hog, which +they killed in my presence. The entrails were divided into eleven +portions, in such a manner that each of them contained a bit of every +thing. These portions were distributed to the servants, and some +dressed theirs in the same oven with the hog, while others carried +off, undressed, what had come to their share. There was also a large +pudding, the whole process in making which, I saw. It was composed +of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus nuts, each +rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of +juice, expressed from cocoa-nut kernels, was put into a large tray or +wooden vessel. The other articles, hot from the oven, were deposited +in this vessel; and a few hot stones were also put in to make the +contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir the +several ingredients, till they were incorporated one with another, and +the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil; so that the whole mass, +at last, became of the consistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these +puddings are excellent; and few that we make in England equal them. I +seldom or never dined without one when I could get it, which was not +always the case. Otoo's hog being baked, and the pudding, which I +have described, being made, they, together with two living hogs, and +a quantity of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe, and +sent on board my ship, followed by myself, and all the royal family. + +The following evening, a young ram, of the Cape breed, that had been +lambed, and with great care brought up on board the ship, was killed +by a dog. Incidents are of more or less consequence, as connected with +situation. In our present situation, desirous as I was to propagate +this useful race amongst these islands, the loss of the ram was a +serious misfortune; as it was the only one I had of that breed; and I +had only one of the English breed left. + +In the evening of the 7th, we played off some fireworks before a great +concourse of people. Some were highly entertained with the exhibition; +but by far the greater number of spectators were terribly frightened; +insomuch, that it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to +keep together to see the end of the shew. A table-rocket was the last. +It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in a moment; even +the most resolute among them fled with precipitation. + +The next day, a party of us dined with our former ship-mate, Oedidee, +on fish and pork. The hog weighed about thirty pounds; and it may be +worth mentioning, that it was alive, dressed, and brought upon the +table within the hour. We had but just dined, when Otoo came and asked +me if my belly was full. On my answering in the affirmative, he +said, "Then, come along with me." I accordingly went with him to his +father's, where I found some people employed in dressing two girls +with a prodigious quantity of fine cloth, after a very singular +fashion: The one end of each piece of cloth, of which there were +a good many, was held up over the heads of the girls, while the +remainder was wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits; then the +upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground, +over the other, so as to bear some resemblance to a circular +hoop-petticoat. Afterward, round the outside of all, were wrapped +several pieces of differently-coloured cloth, which considerably +increased the size; so that it was not less than five or six yards +in circuit, and the weight of this singular attire was as much as +the poor girls could support. To each were hang two _taames_, +or breast-plates, by way of enriching the whole, and giving it a +picturesque appearance. Thus equipped, they were conducted on board +the ship, together with several hogs, and a quantity of fruit, which, +with the cloth, was a present to me from Otoo's father. Persons of +either sex, dressed in this manner, are called _atee_; but, I believe, +it is never practised, except when large presents of cloth are to be +made. At least, I never saw it practised upon any other occasion; nor, +indeed, had I ever such a present before; but both Captain Clerke and +I had cloth given to us afterward, thus wrapped round the bearers. The +next day, I had a present of five hogs and some fruit from Otoo; +and one hog and some fruit from each of his sisters. Nor were other +provisions wanting. For two or three days, great quantities of +mackerel had been caught by the natives, within the reef, in seines; +some of which they brought to the ships and tents and sold. + +Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants, by a succession of +presents, than he was to contribute to our amusement, by a succession +of diversions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre on the 10th, +he treated us with what may be called a play. His three sisters were +the actresses; and the dresses that they appeared in were new and +elegant; that is, more so than we had usually met with at any of these +islands. But the principal object I had in view, this day, in going +to Oparre, was to take a view of an embalmed corpse, which some of our +gentlemen had happened to meet with at that place, near the residence +of Otoo. On enquiry, I found it to be the remains of Tee, a chief well +known to me when I was at this island during my last voyage. It was +lying in a _toopapaoo_, more elegantly constructed than their common +ones, and in all respects similar to that lately seen by us at +Oheitepeha, in which the remains of Waheiadooa are deposited, embalmed +in the same manner. When we arrived at the place, the body was under +cover, and wrapped up in cloth within the _toopapaoo_; but, at my +desire, the man who had the care of it, brought it out, and laid it +upon a kind of bier, in such a manner, that we had as full a view of +it as we could wish; but we were not allowed to go within the pales +that enclosed the _toopapaoo_. After he had thus exhibited the corpse, +he hung the place with mats and cloth, so disposed as to produce a +very pretty effect. We found the body not only entire in every part; +but, what surprised us much more, was, that putrefaction seemed +scarcely to be begun, as there was not the least disagreeable smell +proceeding from it; though the climate is one of the hottest, and Tee +had been dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration that +had happened, was a shrinking of the muscular parts and eyes; but the +hair and nails were in their original state, and still adhered firmly; +and the several joints were quite pliable, or in that kind of relaxed +state which happens to persons who faint suddenly. Such were Mr +Anderson's remarks to me, who also told me, that on his enquiring into +the method of effecting this preservation of their dead bodies, he had +been informed, that, soon after their death, they are disembowlled, +by drawing the intestines, and other _viscera_, out at the _anus_; +and the whole cavity is then filled or stuffed with cloth, introduced +through the same part; that when any moisture appeared on the skin, it +was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterward rubbed all over with +a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut oil; which, being frequently +repeated, preserved them a great many months; but that, at last, they +gradually moulder away. This was the information Mr Anderson received; +for my own part, I could not learn any more about their mode of +operation than what Omai told me, who said, that they made use of the +juice of a plant which grows amongst the mountains, of cocoa-nut oil, +and of frequent washing with sea-water. I was also told, that the +bodies of all their great men, who die a natural death, are preserved +in this manner; and that they expose them to public view for a very +considerable time after. At first, they are laid out every day, when +it does not rain; afterward, the intervals become greater and greater; +and, at last, they are seldom to be seen.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The method of embalming, above described, is very +different from that practised among the Egyptians and other ancient +people. For an account of the latter, the reader may turn to Beloe's +Herodotus, vol. i. where observations are collected from several +authors.--E.] + +In the evening we returned from Oparre, where we left Otoo, and all +the royal family; and I saw none of them till the 12th; when all, but +the chief himself, paid me a visit. He, as they told me, was gone to +Attahooroo, to assist, this day, at another human sacrifice, which the +chief of Tiaraboo had sent thither to be offered up at the _morai_. +This second instance, within the course of a few days, was +too melancholy a proof how numerous the victims of this bloody +superstition are amongst this humane people. I would have been present +at this sacrifice too, had I known of it in time; for now it was too +late. From the very same cause, I missed being present at a public +transaction, which had passed at Oparre the preceding day, when Otoo, +with all the solemnities observed on such occasions, restored to +the friends and followers of the late king Tootaha, the lands and +possessions which had been withheld from them, ever since his death. +Probably, the new sacrifice was the concluding ceremony of what may be +called the reversal of attainder. + +The following evening, Otoo returned from exercising this most +disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign; and the next day, being +now honoured with his company, Captain Clerke and I, mounted on +horseback, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very great +surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, +gazing upon us with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs. +Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this, attempted to get on +horseback; but he had as often been thrown off, before he could +contrive to seat himself; so that this was the first time they had +seen any body ride a horse. What Captain Clerke and I began, was, +after this, repeated every day, while we staid, by one or another +of our people. And yet the curiosity of the natives continued still +unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these animals, after +they had seen the use that was made of them; and, as far as I could +judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness of other +nations, than all the other novelties put together that their European +visitors had carried amongst them. Both the horse and mare were in +good case, and looked extremely well. + +The next day, Etary, or Olla, the god of Bolabola, who had, for +several days past, been in the neighbourhood of Matavai, removed to +Oparre, attended by several sailing canoes. We were told that Otoo did +not approve of his being so near our station, where his people could +more easily invade our property. I must do Otoo the justice to say, +that he took every method prudence could suggest to prevent thefts and +robberies; and it was more owing to his regulations, than to our own +circumspection, that so few were committed. He had taken care to erect +a little house or two, on the other side of the river, behind our +post; and two others, close to our tents, on the bank between +the river and the sea. In all these places some of his own people +constantly kept watch; and his father generally resided on Matavai +point; so that we were, in a manner, surrounded by them. Thus +stationed, they not only guarded us in the night from thieves, but +could observe every thing that passed in the day; and were ready to +collect contributions from such girls as had private connections +with our people; which was generally done every morning. So that the +measures adopted by him to secure our safety, at the same time served +the more essential purpose of enlarging his own profits. + +Otoo informing me that his presence was necessary at Oparre, where he +was to give audience to the great personage from Bolabola; and asking +me to accompany him, I readily consented, in hopes of meeting with +something worth our notice. Accordingly I went with him, in the +morning of the 16th, attended by Mr Anderson. Nothing, however, +occurred on this occasion that was either interesting or curious. +We saw Etary and his followers present some coarse cloth and hogs to +Otoo; and each article was delivered with some ceremony, and a set +speech. After this, they, and some other chiefs, held a consultation +about the expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at first, seemed to disapprove +of it; but, at last, his objections were over-ruled. Indeed, it +appeared next day, that it was too late to deliberate about this +measure; and that Towha, Potatou, and another chief, had already gone +upon the expedition with the fleet of Attahooroo. For a messenger +arrived in the evening, with intelligence that they had reached +Eimeo, and that there had been some skirmishes, without much loss or +advantage on either side. + +In the morning of the 18th, Mr Anderson, myself, and Omai, went again +with Otoo to Oparre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to +leave upon the island, consisting of an English ram and ewe, and three +Cape ewes, all of which I gave to Otoo. As all the three cows had +taken the bull, I thought I might venture to divide them, and carry +some to Ulieta. With this view, I had them brought before us; and +proposed to Etary, that if he would leave his bull with Otoo, he +should have mine, and one of the three cows; adding, that I would +carry them for him to Ulieta; for I was afraid to remove the Spanish +bull, lest some accident should happen to him, as he was a bulky, +spirited beast. To this proposal of mine, Etary, at first, made some +objections; but, at last, agreed to it; partly through the persuasion +of Omai. However, just as the cattle were putting into the boat, one +of Etary's followers valiantly opposed any exchange whatever being +made. Finding this, and suspecting that Etary had only consented to +the proposed arrangement, for the present moment, to please me; and +that, after I was gone, he might take away his bull, and then Otoo +would not have one, I thought it best to drop the idea of an exchange, +as it could not be made with the mutual consent of both parties; and +finally determined to leave them all with Otoo, strictly enjoining him +never to suffer them to be removed from Oparre, not even the Spanish +bull, nor any of the sheep, till he should get a stock of young +ones; which he might then dispose of to his friends, and send to the +neighbouring islands. + +This being settled, we left Etary and his party to ruminate upon their +folly, and attended Otoo to another place hard by, where we found the +servants of a chief, whose name I forgot to ask, waiting with a hog, a +pig, and a dog, as a present from their master to the sovereign. These +were delivered with the usual ceremonies, and with an harangue in +form, in which the speaker, in his master's name, enquired after +the health of Otoo, and of all the principal people about him. +This compliment was echoed back in the name of Otoo, by one of his +ministers; and then the dispute with Eimeo was discussed, with many +arguments for and against it. The deputies of this chief were for +prosecuting the war with vigour, and advised Otoo to offer a human +sacrifice. On the other hand, a chief, who was in constant attendance +on Otoo's person, opposed it, seemingly with great strength of +argument. This confirmed me in the opinion, that Otoo himself never +entered heartily into the spirit of this war. He now received +repeated messages from Towha, strongly soliciting him to hasten to his +assistance. We were told, that his fleet was, in a manner, surrounded +by that of Maheine; but that neither the one nor the other durst +hazard an engagement. + +After dining with Otoo, we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. +This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with +fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached +himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, between nine and ten +o'clock in the evening, with a large supply for both ships. This +marked his humane attention more strongly than any thing he had +hitherto done for us. The next day, all the royal family came with +presents; so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more +provisions than we could consume. + +Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulked, the +rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began to think of +leaving the island, that I might have sufficient time to spare for +visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view, we removed +from the shore our observatories and instruments, and bent the sails. +Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to acquaint me, that all +the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other districts adjoining, +were going to Oparre to join those belonging to that part of the +island; and that there would be a general review there. Soon after, +the squadron of Matavai was all in motion; and, after parading awhile +about the bay, assembled ashore, near the middle of it. I now went in +my boat to take a view of them. + +Of those with stages, on which they fight, or what they call their +war-canoes, there were about sixty, with near as many more of a +smaller size. I was ready to have attended them to Oparre; but, soon +after, a resolution was taken by the chiefs, that they should not move +till the next day. I looked upon this to be a fortunate delay, as it +afforded me a good opportunity to get some insight into their manner +of fighting. With this view, I expressed my wish to Otoo, that he +would order some of them to go through the necessary manoeuvres. Two +were accordingly ordered out into the bay; in one of which, Otoo, Mr +King, and myself, embarked; and Omai went on board the other. When we +had got sufficient sea-room, we faced, and advanced upon each other, +and retreated by turns, as quick as our rowers could paddle. During +this, the warriors on the stages flourished their weapons, and +played a hundred antic tricks, which could answer no other end, in +my judgment, than to work up their passions, and prepare them for +fighting. Otoo stood by the side of our stage, and gave the necessary +orders, when to advance, and when to retreat. In this, great judgment +and a quick eye, combined together seemed requisite, to seize every +advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving any advantage to the +adversary. At last, after advancing and retreating to and from each +other, at least a dozen of times, the two canoes closed, head to head, +or stage to stage; and, after a short conflict, the troops on our +stage were supposed to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai +and his associates. At that very instant, Otoo, and all our paddlers +leaped over-board, as if reduced to the necessity of endeavouring to +save their lives by swimming. + +If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval engagements +are not always conducted in this manner. He told me, that they +sometimes begin with lashing the two vessels together, head to head, +and then fight till all the warriors are killed, on one side or the +other. But this close combat, I apprehend, is never practised, but +when they are determined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other +must happen; for all agree that they never give quarter, unless it be +to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next day. + +The power and strength of these islands lie entirely in their navies. +I never heard of a general engagement on land; and all their decisive +battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of conflict are +fixed upon by both parties, the preceding day and night are spent in +diversions and feasting. Toward morning, they launch the canoes, put +every thing in order, and, with the day, begin the battle; the fate of +which generally decides the dispute. The vanquished save themselves +by a precipitate flight; and such as reach the shore, fly with their +friends to the mountains; for the victors, while their fury lasts, +spare neither the aged, nor women, nor children. The next day, they +assemble at the _morai_, to return thanks to the _Eatooa_ for the +victory, and to offer up the slain as sacrifices, and the prisoners +also, if they have any. After this a treaty is set on foot; and the +conquerors, for the most part, obtain their own terms; by which, +particular districts of land, and sometimes whole islands, change +their owners. Omai told us, that he was once taken a prisoner by the +men of Bolabola, and carried to that island, where he and some others +would have been put to death the next day, if they had not found means +to escape in the night. + +As soon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his suit of armour, +mounted a stage in one of the canoes, and was paddled all along the +shore of the bay; so that every one had a full view of him. His coat +of mail did not draw the attention of his countrymen so much as +might have been expected. Some of them, indeed, had seen a part of it +before; and there were others, again, who had taken such a dislike to +Omai, from his imprudent conduct at this place, that they would hardly +look at any thing, however singular, that was exhibited by him. + + +SECTION IV. + +_The Day of Sailing fixed.--Peace made with Eimeo.--Debates about it, +and Otoo's Conduct blamed.--A Solemnity at the Morai on the Occasion, +described by Mr King.--Observations upon it.--Instance of Otoo's +Art.--Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his Behaviour.--Otoo's +Present, and Message to the King of Great Britain.--Reflections on +our Manner of Traffic, and on the good Treatment we met with at +Otaheite.--Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards.--Their Fictions +to depreciate the English.--Wishes expressed that no Settlement may be +made.--Omai's Jealousy of another Traveller._ + +Early in the morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father came on board, to +know when I proposed sailing. For, having been informed that there +was a good harbour at Eimeo, I had told them that I should visit +that island on my way to Huaheine; and they were desirous of taking a +passage with me, and of their fleet sailing, at the time, to reinforce +Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name +the day; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to +take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in short, the whole +family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately +for Oparre, where all the fleet, fitted out for the expedition, was to +assemble this day, and to be reviewed. + +I had but just time to get into my boat, when news was brought, that +Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned with +his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further +proceedings, in the military way, quite unnecessary; and the +war-canoes, instead of rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to +their respective districts. This alteration, however, did not hinder +me from following Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr King and Omai. +Soon after our arrival, and while dinner was preparing, a messenger +arrived from Eimeo, and related the conditions of the peace, or +rather of the truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms were +disadvantageous to Otaheite; and much blame was thrown upon Otoo, +whose delay, in sending reinforcements, had obliged Towha to submit +to a disgraceful accommodation. It was even currently reported, that +Towha, resenting his not being supported, had declared, that, as soon +as I should leave the island, he would join his forces to those of +Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo at Matavai, or Oparre. This called upon +me to declare, in the most public manner, that I was determined to +espouse the interest of my friend against any such combination; and +that whoever presumed to attack him, should feel the weight of +my heavy displeasure, when I returned again to their island. My +declaration, probably, had the desired effect; and, if Towha had any +such hostile intention at first, we soon heard no more of the report. +Whappai, Otoo's father, highly disapproved of the peace, and blamed +Towha very much for concluding it. This sensible old man wisely +judged, that my going down with them to Eimeo must have been of +singular service to their cause, though I should take no other part +whatever in the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built all his +arguments, and maintained, that Otoo had acted properly by waiting for +me; though this had prevented his giving assistance to Towha so soon +as he expected. + +Our debates at Oparre, on this subject, were hardly ended, before a +messenger arrived from Towha, desiring Otoo's attendance, the next +day, at the _morai_ in Attahooroo, to give thanks to the gods for the +peace he had concluded; at least, such was Omai's account to me of +the object of this solemnity. I was asked to go; but being much out of +order, was obliged to decline it. Desirous, however, of knowing what +ceremonies might be observed on so memorable an occasion, I sent +Mr King and Omai, and returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's +mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first, I thought +that this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other +view than to get a passage to Matavai. But when we arrived at the +ship, they told me, they intended passing the night on board, for the +express purpose of undertaking the cure of the disorder I complained +of; which was a pain of the rheumatic kind, extending from the hip +to the foot. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them +upon the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. I +was desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then, as many of them as +could get round me, began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to +foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, +till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In +short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, +I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave +me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another +rubbing-down before I went to bed; and it was so effectual, that I +found myself pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians +repeated their prescription the next morning, before they went ashore, +and again, in the evening, when they returned on board; after which, +I found the pains entirely removed; and the cure being perfected, they +took their leave of me the following morning. This they call _romee_; +an operation which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh brush, or any +thing of the kind that we make use of externally. It is universally +practised amongst these islanders; being sometimes performed by the +men, but more generally by the women. If, at any time, one appears +languid and tired, and sits down by any of them, they immediately +begin to practise the _romee_ upon his legs; and I have always found +it to have an exceedingly good effect.[1] + +[Footnote 1: See Captain Wallis's account of the same operation +performed on himself, and his first lieutenant, in this Collection, +vol. xii. p. 197.] + +In the morning of the 25th, Otoo, Mr King, and Omai, returned from +Attahooroo; and Mr King gave me the following account of what he had +seen: + +"Soon after you left me, a second messenger came from Towha to Otoo, +with a plantain-tree. It was sun-set when we embarked in a canoe +and left Oparre. About nine o'clock we landed at Tettaha, at that +extremity which joins to Attahooroo. Before we landed, the people +called to us from the shore; probably, to tell us that Towha was +there. The meeting of Otoo and this chief, I expected, would afford +some incident worthy of observation. Otoo, and his attendants, went +and seated themselves on the beach, close to the canoe in which Towha +was. He was then asleep; but his servants having awakened him, and +mentioning Otoo's name, immediately a plantain-tree and a dog were +laid at Otoo's feet; and many of Towha's people came and talked with +him, as I conceived, about their expedition to Eimeo. After I had, for +some time, remained seated close to Otoo, Towha neither stirring from +his canoe, nor holding any conversation with us, I went to him. He +asked me if _Toote_ was angry with him. I answered, No: that he was +his _taio_; and that he had ordered me to go to Attahooroo to tell +him so. Omai now had a long conversation with this chief; but I could +gather no information of any kind from him. On my returning to +Otoo, he seemed desirous that I should go to eat, and then to sleep. +Accordingly, Omai and I left him. On questioning Omai, he said, the +reason of Towha's not stirring from his canoe, was his being lame; but +that, presently, Otoo and he would converse together in private. This +seemed true; for in a little time, those we left with Otoo came to us; +and, about ten minutes after, Otoo himself arrived, and we all went to +sleep in his canoe. + +"The next morning, the _ava_ was in great plenty. One man drank so +much that he lost his senses. I should have supposed him to be in a +fit, from the convulsions that agitated him. Two men held him, and +kept plucking off his hair by the roots. I left this spectacle to see +another that was more affecting. This was the meeting of Towha and his +wife, and a young girl, whom I understood to be his daughter. After +the ceremony of cutting their heads, and discharging a tolerable +quantity of blood and tears, they washed, embraced the chief, and +seemed unconcerned. But the young girl's sufferings were not yet come +to an end. Terridiri[2] arrived; and she went, with great composure, +to repeat the same ceremonies to him, which she had just performed on +meeting her father. Towha had brought a large war-canoe from Eimeo. I +enquired if he had killed the people belonging to her; and was told, +that there was no man in her when she was captured. + +[Footnote 2: Terridiri was Oberea's son. See an account of the royal +family of Otaheite, in this Collection, vol. xii. p. 482.] + +"We left Tettaha about ten or eleven o'clock, and landed close to +the _morai_ of Attahooroo a little after noon. There lay three canoes +hauled upon the beach, opposite the _morai_, with three hogs exposed +in each: their sheds, or awnings, had something under them which I +could not discern. We expected the solemnity to be performed the same +afternoon; but as neither Towha nor Potatou had joined us, nothing was +done. + +"A chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a plantain-tree, and +placed them at Otoo's feet. They talked some time together; and the +Eimeo chief often repeating the words, _Warry, warry_, 'false,' I +supposed that Otoo was relating to him what he had heard, and that the +other denied it. + +"The next day (Wednesday) Towha and Potatou, with about eight large +canoes, arrived, and landed near the _morai_. Many plantain-trees were +brought, on the part of different chiefs to Otoo. Towha did not stir +from his canoe. The ceremony began by the principal priest bringing +out the _maro_ wrapped up, and a bundle shaped like a large +sugar-loaf. These were placed at the head of what I understood to be a +grave. Then three priests came, and sat down opposite, that is, at the +other end of the grave; bringing with them a plantain-tree, the branch +of some other tree, and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut +tree. + +"The priests, with these things in their hands, separately repeated +sentences; and, at intervals, two, and sometime all three, sung a +melancholy ditty, little attended to by the people. This praying +and singing continued for an hour. Then, after a short prayer, the +principal priest uncovered the _maro_; and Otoo rose up, and wrapped +it about him, holding, at the same time, in his hand, a cap or bonnet, +composed of the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird, mixed +with other feathers of a dark colour. He stood in the middle space, +facing the three priests, who continued their prayers for about ten +minutes; when a man, starting from the crowd, said something which +ended with the word _heiva!_ and the crowd echoed back to him, three +times, _Earee!_ This, as I had been told before, was the principal +part of the solemnity. + +"The company now moved to the opposite side of the great pile of +stones, where is, what they call, the king's _morai_, which is not +unlike a large grave. Here the same ceremony was performed over +again, and ended in three cheers. The _maro_ was now wrapped up, and +increased in its splendour by the addition of a small piece of red +feathers, which one of the priests gave Otoo when he had it on, and +which he stuck into it. + +"From this place, the people went to a large hut, close by the +_morai_, where they seated themselves in much greater order than is +usual among them. A man of Tiaraboo then made an oration, which lasted +about ten minutes. He was followed by an Attahooroo man; afterward +Potatou spoke with much greater fluency and grace than any of them; +for, in general, they spoke in short broken sentences, with a motion +of the hand that was rather awkward. Tooteo, Otoo's orator, spoke +next; and, after him, a man from Eimeo. Two or three more speeches +were made; but not much attended to. Omai told me, that the speeches +declared, that they should not fight, but all be friends. As many of +the speakers expressed themselves with warmth, possibly there were +some recriminations and protestations of their good intentions. In +the midst of their speaking, a man of Attahooroo got up, with a sling +fastened to his waist, and a large stone placed upon his shoulder. +After parading near a quarter of an hour, in the open space, repeating +something in a singing tone, he threw the stone down. This stone, +and a plantain-tree that lay at Otoo's feet, were, after the speeches +ended, carried to the _morai_: and one of the priests, and Otoo with +him, said something upon the occasion. + +"On our return to Oparre, the sea-breeze having set in, we were +obliged to land; and had a pleasant walk through almost the whole +extent of Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two bundles of dried leaves +suspended upon it, marked the boundary of the two districts. The man +who had performed the ceremony of the stone and sling came with us. +With him, Otoo's father had a long conversation. He seemed very angry. +I understood, he was enraged at the part Towha had taken in the Eimeo +business." + +From what I can judge of this solemnity, as thus described by Mr King, +it had not been wholly a thanksgiving, as Omai told us, but rather a +confirmation of the treaty, or perhaps both. The grave, which Mr King +speaks of, seems to be the very spot where the celebration of the +rites began, when the human sacrifice, at which I was present, was +offered, and before which the victim was laid, after being removed +from the sea side. It is at this part of the _morai_ also that they +first invest their kings with the _maro_. Omai, who had been present +when Otoo was made king, described to me the whole ceremony, when we +were here; and I find it to be almost the same as this that Mr King +has now described, though we understood it to be upon a very different +occasion. The plantain-tree, so often mentioned, is always the first +thing introduced, not only in all their religious ceremonies, but in +all their debates, whether of a public or private nature. It is also +used on other occasions; perhaps many more than we know of. While +Towha was at Eimeo, one or more messengers came from him to Otoo every +day. The messenger always came with a young plantain-tree in his hand, +which he laid down at Otoo's feet, before he spoke a word; then seated +himself before him, and related what he was charged with. I have seen +two men in such high dispute that I expected they would proceed to +blows; yet, on one laying a plantain-tree before the other, they +have both become cool, and carried on the argument without farther +animosity. In short, it is, upon all occasions, the olive-branch of +these people. + +The war with Eimeo, and the solemn rites which were the consequence of +it, being thus finally closed, all our friends paid us a visit on +the 26th; and, as they knew that we were upon the point of sailing, +brought with them more hogs than we could take off their hands. For, +having no salt left, to preserve any, we wanted no more than for +present use. + +The next day, I accompanied Otoo to Oparre; and, before I left it, I +looked at the cattle and poultry, which I had consigned to my friend's +care at that place. Every thing was in a promising way, and properly +attended to. Two of the geese, and two of the ducks were sitting; but +the pea and turkey hens had not begun to lay. I got from Otoo four +goats; two of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, where none had as +yet been introduced; and the other two I proposed to reserve for the +use of any other islands I might meet with in my passage to the north. + +A circumstance which I shall now mention of Otoo will shew that these +people are capable of much address and art to gain their purposes. +Amongst other things which, at different times, I had given to this +chief, was a spying-glass. After having it in his possession two or +three days, tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no use to +him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him that, as +he had been his very good friend, he had got a present for him which +he knew would be agreeable. "But," says Otoo, "you must not let +_Toote_ know it, because he wants it, and I would not let him have +it." He then put the glass into Captain Clerke's hands; at the same +time assuring him that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke, at +first, declined accepting it; but Otoo insisted upon it, and left it +with him. Some days after, he put Captain Clerke in mind of the glass, +who, though he did not want it, was yet desirous of obliging Otoo; +and, thinking that a few axes would be of more use at this island, +produced four to give him in return. Otoo no sooner saw this, than he +said, "_Toote_ offered me five for it." "Well," says Captain Clerke, +"if that be the case, your friendship for me shall not make you a +loser, and you shall have six axes." These he accepted; but desired +again, that I might not be told what he had done. + +Our friend Omai got one good thing, at this island, for the many +good things he gave away. This was a very fine double-sailing canoe, +completely equipped, and fit for the sea. Some time before, I had +made up for him a suit of English colours; but he thought these too +valuable to be used at this time; and patched up a parcel of colours, +such as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which +he spread on different parts of his vessel, all at the same time; and +drew together as many people to look at her, as a man of war would, +dressed, in an European port. These streamers of Omai were a mixture +of English, French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European +colours that he had seen. When I was last at this island, I gave to +Otoo an English jack and pendant, and to Towha a pendant, which I now +found they had preserved with the greatest care. + +Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of cloth and +cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better +at Otaheite, than at any of the Society Islands, insomuch that they +are articles of trade. Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, +and so much unlike himself, as he did in many instances, but for his +sister and brother-in-law, who, together with a few more of their +acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other +view than to strip him of every thing he had got. And they would, +undoubtedly, have succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop +to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into +my possession. But even this would not have saved Omai from ruin, if +I had suffered these relations of his to have gone with, or to have +followed us to, his intended place of settlement, Huaheine. This they +had intended; but I disappointed their farther views of plunder, by +forbidding them to shew themselves in that island, while I remained in +the neighbourhood; and they knew me too well not to comply. + +On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me that be had got a +canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home, as a +present from him to the _Earee rahie no Pretane_; it being the only +thing, he said, that he could send worth his majesty's acceptance. I +was not a little pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude. +It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the +least hint about it; and it shewed, that he fully understood to whom +he was indebted for the most valuable presents that he had received. +At first, I thought that this canoe had been a model of one of their +vessels of war; but I soon found that it was a small _evaa_, about +sixteen feet long. It was double, and seemed to have been built for +the purpose; and was decorated with all those pieces of carved work +which they usually fix upon their canoes. As it was too large for me +to take on board, I could only thank him for his good intention; but +it would have pleased him much better if his present could have been +accepted. + +We were detained here some days longer than I expected, by light +breezes from the west, and calms by turns; so that we could not get +out of the bay. During this time, the ships were crowded with our +friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes; for not one would +leave the place till we were gone. At length, at three o'clock in the +afternoon of the 29th, the wind came at east, and we weighed anchor. + +As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of Otoo, and to +gratify the curiosity of his people, I fired seven guns, loaded with +shot; after which, all our friends, except him, and two or three more, +left us with such marks of affection and grief, as sufficiently shewed +how much they regretted our departure. Otoo being desirous of seeing +the ship sail, I made a stretch out to sea, and then in again; when be +also bid us farewell, and went ashore in his canoe. + +The frequent visits we had lately paid to this island, seem to +have created a full persuasion, that the intercourse will not be +discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo, to request, in +his name, the _Earee rahie no Pretane_ to send him, by the next ships, +red feathers, and the birds that produce them; axes; half a dozen +muskets, with powder and shot; and by no means to forget horses. + +I have occasionally mentioned my receiving considerable presents from +Otoo, and the rest of the family, without specifying what returns I +made. It is customary for these people, when they make a present, to +let us know what they expect in return; and we find it necessary to +gratify them; so that, what we get by way of present, comes dearer +than what we get by barter. But, as we were sometimes pressed by +occasional scarcity, we could have recourse to our friends for a +present, or supply, when we could not get our wants relieved by any +other method; and, therefore, upon the whole, this way of traffic was +full as advantageous to us as to the natives. For the most part, +I paid for each separate article as I received it, except in my +intercourse with Otoo. His presents generally came so fast upon me, +that no account was kept between us. Whatever he asked for, that I +could spare, he had whenever he asked for it; and I always found him +moderate in his demands. + +If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself at Otaheite, +I should not have left it so soon as I did. For there was not a +probability of our being better or cheaper supplied with refreshments +at any other place than we continued to be here, even at the time +of our leaving it. Besides, such a cordial friendship and confidence +subsisted between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected +any where else; and it was a little extraordinary, that this friendly +intercourse had never once been suspended by any untoward accident; +nor had there been a theft committed that deserves to be mentioned. +Not that I believe their morals, in this respect, to be much mended, +but am rather of opinion that their regularity of conduct was owing to +the fear the chiefs were under, of interrupting a traffic which +they might consider as the means of securing to themselves a more +considerable share of our commodities, than could have been got +by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this point I settled at the first +interview with their chiefs, after my arrival. For, observing the +great plenty that was in the island, and the eagerness of the natives +to possess our various articles of trade, I resolved to make the most +of these two favourable circumstances, and explained myself, in the +most decisive terms, that I would not suffer them to rob us, as they +had done upon many former occasions. In this, Omai was of great use, +as I instructed him to point out to them the good consequences of +their honest conduct, and the fatal mischiefs they must expect to +suffer by deviating from it. + +It is not always in the power of the chiefs to prevent robberies; they +are frequently robbed themselves, and complain of it as a great evil. +Otoo left the most valuable things he had from me in my possession, +till the day before we sailed; and the reason he gave for it was, that +they were no where so safe. Since the bringing in of new riches, the +inducements to pilfering must have increased. The chiefs, sensible of +this, are now extremely desirous of chests. They seemed to set much +value upon a few that the Spaniards had left amongst them; and they +were continually asking us for some. I had one made for Otoo, the +dimensions of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet +in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts +were not a sufficient security; but it must be large enough for two +people to sleep upon, by way of guarding it in the night. + +It will appear a little extraordinary that we, who had a smattering of +their language, and Omai, besides, for an interpreter, could never +get any clear account of the time when the Spaniards arrived, how long +they stayed, and when they departed. The more we enquired into this +matter, the more we were convinced of the inability of most of these +people to remember, or note the time, when past events happened; +especially if it exceeded ten or twenty months. It however appeared, +by the date of the inscription upon the cross, and by the information +we received from the most intelligent of the natives, that two ships +arrived at Oheitepeha in 1774, soon after I left Matavai, which was +in May, the same year. They brought with them the house and live-stock +before mentioned. Some said that, after landing these things, and some +men, they sailed in quest of me, and returned in about ten days. But +I have some doubt of the truth of this, as they were never seen either +at Huaheine, or at Ulietea. The live-stock they left here consisted +of one bull, some goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of some other +animal, which we afterward found to be a ram, and, at this time, was +at Bolabola, whither the bull was also to have been transported. + +The hogs are of a large kind; have already greatly improved the breed +originally found by us upon the island; and, at the time of our late +arrival, were very numerous. Goats are also in tolerable plenty, there +being hardly a chief of any note who has not got some. As to the dogs +that the Spaniards put ashore, which are of two or three sorts, I +think they would have done the island a great deal more service if +they had hanged them all, instead of leaving them upon it. It was to +one of them that my young ram fell a victim. + +When these ships left the island, four Spaniards remained behind. Two +were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself very popular +among the natives, who distinguish him by the name of Mateema. He +seems to have been a person who had studied their language; or, at +least, to have spoken it so as to be understood; and to have taken +uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most +exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them +think meanly of the English. He even went so far as to assure them, +that we no longer existed as an independent nation; that _Pretane_ +was only a small island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely +destroyed; and, for me, that they had met with me at sea, and, with a +few shot, had sent my ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom; +so that my visiting Otaheite, at this time, was, of course, very +unexpected. All this, and many other improbable falsehoods, did this +Spaniard make these people believe. If Spain had no other views, in +this expedition, but to depreciate the English, they had better have +kept their ships at home; for my returning again to Otaheite was +considered as a complete confutation of all that Mateema had said. + +With what design the priests stayed, we can only guess. If it was to +convert the natives to the catholic faith, they have not succeeded in +any one instance. But it does not appear that they ever attempted +it; for, if the natives are to be believed, they never conversed with +them, either on this, or on any other subject. The priests resided +constantly in the house at Oheitepeha; but Mateema roved about, +visiting most parts of the island. At length, after he and his +companions had stayed ten months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took +them on board, and sailed again in five days. This hasty departure +shews that, whatever design the Spaniards might have had upon this +island, they had now laid it aside. And yet, as I was informed by +Otoo, and many others, before they went away, they would have the +natives believe that they still meant to return, and to bring with +them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and women who were to +settle, live, and die on the island. Otoo, when he told me this, +added, that if the Spaniards should return, he would not let them come +to Matavai Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the +idea pleased him; little thinking that the completion of it would, at +once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their liberties. +This shews with what facility a settlement might be made at Otaheite, +which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will never +happen. Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have benefitted +its inhabitants; but a permanent establishment amongst them, +conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have +unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament that +our ships had ever found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely that +any measure of this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it +can neither serve the purposes of public ambition, nor of private +avarice; and, without such inducements, I may pronounce that it will +never be undertaken.[3] + +[Footnote 3: We may have occasion hereafter to make mention of several +subsequent visits to this island, on the part of our countrymen. It +is evident, that Captain Cook was far from being well pleased with the +consequences which had already resulted to its inhabitants from their +intercourse with Europeans. Unfortunately, it is impracticable to give +a more agreeable picture of the condition of the island as influenced +by future visits. Cook's solicitude, in behalf of these people, is +extremely commendable, and it is to this we must ascribe his opinion +of the impolicy of attempting settlements amongst them. Is it +wonderful, that to a man of his humanity and discernment, any other +effect should seem likely to proceed from the undertaking, than what +would augment his concern that ever Otaheite felt the necessity +of being obliged to his countrymen? One motive alone, perhaps, not +contemplated by him in reasoning on the purposes which might induce to +such an attempt, gave some promise of compensating for former evils, +without being likely to entail others, which would still leave the +balance of good and bad consequences a subject of regret. We allude +to the _intentions_ of the missionaries, who projected a settlement on +the island in 1796, &c. But the friends of humanity have not hitherto +had cause to rejoice at the amount of the new benefits conferred. The +advocates for such labours, indeed, require to arm themselves with +patience, unless they can satisfy themselves with the conviction of +having _willed_ a good work. Besides, even they ought to anticipate +the certainty, that, were their intentions realized, intruders of very +different principles, and with very different motives, would speedily +mar the fruits of their benevolence. Such reflections, it may be said, +are discouraging. What opinion, then, ought we to entertain of the +wisdom of labours, which had been undertaken without a full view of +obvious causes threatening their ultimate failure? It would little +alleviate the mortification of disappointment, to exclaim, as is often +done on such occasions, "Who could have thought it?" But the most +enlightened judges of such undertakings, will not only advert to the +probable occurrence of such mischief, but also be well aware of the +existence of _other untoward circumstances_, extremely well +calculated to render any fears of subsequent deterioration altogether +superfluous!--E.] + +I have already mentioned the visit that I had from one of the two +natives of this island, who had been carried by the Spaniards to +Lima. I never saw him afterward, which I rather wondered at, as I had +received him with uncommon civility. I believe, however, that Omai +had kept him at a distance from me, by some rough usage; jealous that +there should be another traveller upon the island who might vie with +himself. Our touching at Teneriffe was a fortunate circumstance for +Omai; as he prided himself in having visited a place belonging to +Spain as well as this man. I did not meet with the other, who had +returned from Lima; but Captain Clerke, who had seen him, spoke of +him as a low fellow, and as a little out of his senses. His own +countrymen, I found, agreed in the same account of him. In short, +these two adventurers seemed to be held in no esteem. They had +not, indeed, been so fortunate as to return home with such valuable +acquisitions of property as we had bestowed upon Omai; and, with the +advantages he reaped from his voyage to England, it must be his own +fault if he should sink into the same state of insignificance. + + +SECTION V. + +_Arrival at Eimeo.--Two Harbours there, and an Account of them.--Visit +from Maheine, Chief of the Island.--His Person described.--A Goat +stolen, and sent back with the Thief.--Another Goat stolen, and +secreted.--Measures taken on the Occasion.--Expedition cross the +Island.--Houses and Canoes burnt.--The Goat delivered up, and Peace +restored. Some Account of the Island, &c._ + +As I did not give up my design of touching at Eimeo, at day-break, in +the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for the north +end of the island; the harbour which I wished to examine being at that +part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, +had taken some necessary measures to shew us the place. However, we +were not without pilots, having several men of Otaheite on board, and +not a few women. Not caring to trust entirely to these guides, I sent +two boats to examine the harbour; and, on their making the signal for +safe anchorage, we stood in with the ships, and anchored close up to +the head of the inlet, in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of soft +mud, and moored with a hawser fast to the shore. + +This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side +of the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It runs +in south, or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For +security and goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour +that I have met with at any of the islands in this ocean; and it has +this advantage over most of them, that a ship can sail in and out, +with the reigning trade wind; so that the access and recess are +equally easy. There are several rivulets that fall into it. The one, +at the head, is so considerable as to admit boats to go a quarter of +a mile up, where we found the water perfectly fresh. Its banks are +covered with the _pooroo_ tree, as it is called by the natives, which +makes good firing, and which they set no value upon; so that wood and +water are to be got here with great facility. + +On the same side of the island, and about two miles to the eastward, +is the harbour of Parowroah, much larger within than that of Taloo; +but the entrance, or opening in the reef (for the whole island is +surrounded by a reef of coral rock) is considerably narrower, and lies +to leeward of the harbour. These two defects are so striking, that the +harbour of Taloo must always have a decided preference, It is a little +extraordinary, that I should have been three times at Otaheite before, +and have once sent a boat to Eimeo, and yet not know till now that +there was a harbour in it. On the contrary, I always understood there +was not. Whereas, there are not only the two above mentioned, but one +or two more on the south side of the island. But these last are not so +considerable as the two we have just described. + +We had no sooner anchored, than the ships were crowded with the +inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board; for they had +nothing with them for the purposes of barter. But, the next morning, +this deficiency was supplied; several canoes then arriving from more +distant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, +cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, +and beads; for red feathers were not so much sought after here as at +Otaheite. The ship being a good deal pestered with rats, I hauled her +within thirty yards of the shore, as near as the depth of water would +allow, and made a path for them to get to the land, by fastening +hawsers to the trees. It is said, that this experiment has sometimes +succeeded; but, I believe, we got clear of very few, if any, of the +numerous tribe that haunted us.[1] + +[Footnote 1: A French traveller in Greece, it is believed Sonnini, +makes mention of such an artifice having been used with success by a +vessel that put into one of the islands he visited; but in this case +the transference was made, not into the island, but into another +vessel, containing apples, of which rats are known to be exceedingly +fond. A hawser was secretly fastened to the latter, so as to form a +communication betwixt the two vessels. On the following morning, it is +said, not a rat was found in the one which originally contained them, +the whole having gone over during the night to the other. So much for +the efficacy of the stratagem. The reader will be at no loss to +decide as to the morality of having recourse to it. Mr Bingley relates +another method of getting rid of these vermin, which seems to be +abundantly serviceable, and which certainly has honesty in its favour. +The Valiant man of war, on its return from the Havannah, was so +shockingly infested with them, that they destroyed a hundred weight of +biscuit daily. The ship was smoked between decks in order to suffocate +them, which had the desired effect. In proof of this, he says, +that six hampers were for some time filled every day with the dead +animals.--E.] + +In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the chief of the island, paid me a +visit. He approached the ship with great caution, and it required +some persuasion to get him on board. Probably, he was under some +apprehensions of mischief from us, as friends of the Otaheitans; these +people not being able to comprehend how we can be friends with +any one, without adopting, at the same time, his cause against his +enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who, as I was informed, +is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite, of whose death we had an account while +we were at this island. I made presents to both of them of such things +as they seemed to set the highest value upon; and, after a stay of +about half-an-hour, they went away. Not long after, they returned with +a large hog, which they meant as a return to my present; but I made +them another present to the full value of it. After this they paid a +visit to Captain Clerke. + +This chief who, with a few followers, has made himself, in a manner, +independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is +bald-headed, which is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands +at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to shew his +head. But whether they themselves considered this deficiency of hair +as a mark of disgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our +considering it as such, I cannot say. We judged that the latter +supposition was the truth, from this circumstance, that they had seen +us shave the head of one of their people whom we had caught stealing. +They therefore concluded, that this was the punishment usually +inflicted by us upon all thieves; and one or two of our gentlemen, +whose heads were not overburthened with hair, we could observe, lay +under violent suspicions of being _tetos_. + +In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback, and took a ride along +the shore to the eastward. Our train was not very numerous, as Omai +had forbid the natives to follow us; and many complied; the fear +of giving offence getting the better of their curiosity. Towha had +stationed his fleet in this harbour; and though the war lasted but a +few days, the marks of its devastation were every where to be seen. +The trees were stripped of their fruit; and all the houses in the +neighbourhood had been pulled down or burnt. + +Having employed two or three days in getting up all our spirit casks +to tar their heads, which we found necessary, to save them from the +efforts of a small insect to destroy them, we hauled the ship off into +the stream, on the 6th, n the morning, intending to put to sea the +next day; but an accident happened that prevented it, and gave me a +good deal of trouble. We had sent our goats ashore, in the day-time, +to graze, with two men to look after them; notwithstanding which +precaution, the natives had contrived to steal one of them this +evening. The loss of this goat would have been of little consequence, +if it had not interfered with my views of stocking other islands with +these animals; but this being the case, it became necessary to recover +it, if possible. The next morning, we got intelligence that it had +been carried to Maheine, the chief, who was at this time at Parowroah +harbour. Two old men offered to conduct any of my people, whom I might +think proper to send to him, to bring back the goat. Accordingly, +I dispatched them in a boat, charged with a threatening message to +Maheine, if the goat was not immediately given up to me, and also the +thief. + +It was only the day before that this chief had requested me to give +him two goats. But, as I could not spare them, unless at the expense +of other lands that might never have another opportunity to get any, +and had besides heard that there were already two upon this island, +I did not gratify him. However, to shew my inclination to assist his +views in this respect, I desired Tidooa, an Otaheite chief, who was +present, to beg Otoo, in my name, to send two of these animals to +Maheine; and, by way of insuring a compliance with this request, I +sent to Otoo, by this chief a large piece of red feathers, equal +to the value of the two goats that I required. I expected that this +arrangement would have been satisfactory to Maheine and all the other +chiefs of the island; but the event shewed that I was mistaken. + +Not thinking that any one would dare to steal a second, at the very +time I was taking measures to recover the first, the goats were put +ashore again this morning; and, in the evening, a boat was sent to +bring them on board. As our people were getting them into the boat, +one was carried off undiscovered. It being immediately missed, I made +no doubt of recovering it without much trouble, as there had not been +time to carry it to any considerable distance. Ten or twelve of the +natives set out soon after, different ways, to bring it back, or to +look for it; for not one of them would own that it was stolen, but all +tried to persuade us that it had strayed into the woods; and indeed +I thought so myself. I was convinced to the contrary, however, when +I found that not one of those who went in pursuit of it returned; so +that their only view was to amuse me till their prize was beyond my +reach; and night coming on, put a stop to all farther search. About +this time the boat returned with the other goat, bringing also one of +the men who had stolen it; the first instance of the kind that I had +met with amongst these islands. + +The next morning, I found that most of the inhabitants in the +neighbourhood had moved off; carrying with them a corpse which lay on +a _toopapaoo_, opposite the ship; and that Maheine himself had retired +to the most distant part of the island. It seemed now no longer +doubtful, that a plan had been laid to steal what I had refused to +give; and that, though they had restored one, they were resolved to +keep the other, which was a she-goat, and big with kid. I was equally +fixed in my resolution that they should not keep it. I therefore +applied to the two old men who had been instrumental in getting +back the first. They told me that this had been carried to Watea, a +district on the south side of the island, by Hamoa, the chief of that +place; but that if I would send any body for it, it would be delivered +up. They offered to conduct some of my people cross the island; but, +on my learning from them that a boat might go and return the same day, +I sent one, with two petty officers, Mr Roberts and Mr Shuttleworth; +one to remain with the boat, in case she could not get to the place, +while the other should go with the guides, and one or two of our +people. + +Late in the evening the boat returned; and the officers informed me, +that, after proceeding as far in the boat as rocks and shoals would +permit, Mr Shuttleworth, with two marines, and one of the guides, +landed and travelled to Watea, to the house of Hamoa, where the people +of the place amused them for some time, by telling that the goat would +soon be brought, and pretended they had sent for it. It however never +came; and the approach of night obliged Mr Shuttleworth to return to +the boat without it. + +I was now very sorry that I had proceeded so far, as I could not +retreat with any tolerable credit, and without giving encouragement +to the people of the other islands we had yet to visit, to rob us with +impunity. I asked Omai and the two old men what methods I should next +take; and they, without hesitation, advised me to go with a party of +men into the country, and shoot every soul I should meet with. This +bloody counsel I could not follow; but I resolved to march a party of +men cross the island; and at day-break the next morning, set out with +thirty-five of my people, accompanied by one of the old men, by +Omai, and three or four of his attendants. At the same time I ordered +Lieutenant Williamson, with three armed boats, round the western part +of the island, to meet us. + +I had no sooner landed with my party, than the few natives, who still +remained in the neighbourhood, fled before us. The first man that +we met with upon our march run some risk of his life; for Omai, the +moment he saw him, asked me if he should shoot him; so fully was +he persuaded that I was going to carry his advice into execution. I +immediately ordered both him and our guide to make it known that I +did not intend to hurt, much less to kill, a single native. These glad +tidings flew before us like lightning, and stopped the flight of +the inhabitants; so that no one quitted his house, or employment, +afterward. + +As we began to ascend the ridge of hills over which lay our road, we +got intelligence that the goat had been carried that way before us; +and, as we understood, could not as yet have passed the hills; so that +we marched up in great silence, in hopes of surprising the party +who were bearing off the prize. But when we had got to the uppermost +plantation on the side of the ridge, the people there told us, that +what we were in search of had indeed been kept there the first night, +but had been carried the next morning to Watea, by Hamoa. We then +crossed the ridge without making any further enquiry, till we came +within sight of Watea, where some people shewed us Hamoa's house, and +told us that the goat was there; so that I made no doubt of getting it +immediately upon my arrival. But when I reached the house, to my very +great surprise, the few people we met with denied that they had ever +seen it, or knew any thing about it; even Hamoa himself came, and made +the same declaration. + +On our first coming to the place, I observed several men running to +and fro in the woods, with clubs and bundles of darts in their hands; +and Omai, who followed them, had some, stones thrown at him; so that +it seemed as if they had intended to oppose any step I should take by +force; but on seeing my party was too strong, had dropped the design. +I was confirmed in this notion, by observing that all their houses +were empty. After getting a few of the people of the place together, I +desired Omai to expostulate with them on the absurdity of the conduct +they were pursuing; and to tell them, that, from the testimony of many +on whom I could depend, I was well assured that the goat was in their +possession; and, therefore, insisted upon its being delivered up, +otherwise I would burn their houses and canoes. But, notwithstanding +all that I or Omai could say, they continued to deny their having any +knowledge of it. The consequence was, that I set fire to six or eight +houses, which were presently consumed, with two or three war-canoes +that lay contiguous to them. This done, I marched off to join the +boats, which were about seven or eight miles from us; and, in our way, +we burnt six more war-canoes, without any one attempting to oppose us; +on the contrary, many assisted, though probably more out of fear than +good-will. In one place, Omai, who had advanced a little before, came +back with information, that a great many men were getting together to +attack us. We made ready to receive them; but, instead of enemies, we +found petitioners, with plantain-trees in their hands, which they laid +down at my feet, and begged that I would spare a canoe that lay close +by, which I readily complied with. + +At length, about four in the afternoon, we got to the boats that were +waiting at Wharrarade, the district belonging to Tiarataboonoue; but +this chief, as well as all the principal people of the place, had +fled to the hills; though I touched not a single thing that was their +property, as they were the friends of Otoo. After resting ourselves +here about an hour, we set out for the ships, where we arrived about +eight o'clock in the evening. At that time no account of the goat had +been received; so that the operations of this day had not produced the +desired effect. + +Early next morning, I dispatched one of Omai's men to Maheine, with +this peremptory message, that, if he persisted in his refusal, I would +not leave him a single canoe upon the island, and that he might expect +a continuation of hostilities as long as the stolen animal remained +in his possession. And, that the messenger might see that I was in +earnest, before he left me, I sent the carpenter to break up three or +four canoes that lay ashore at the head of the harbour. The plank was +carried on board, as materials for building a house for Omai, at +the place where he intended to settle. I afterward went, properly +accompanied, to the next harbour, where we broke up three or four more +canoes, and burnt an equal number; and then returned on board about +seven in the evening. On my arrival, I found that the goat had been +brought back, about half an hour before; and, on enquiry, it appeared +that it had come from the very place where I had been told, the day +before, by the inhabitants, that they knew nothing of it. But, in +consequence of the message I sent to the chief in the morning, it was +judged prudent to trifle with me no longer. + +Thus ended this troublesome, and rather unfortunate business; which +could not be more regretted on the part of the natives than it was on +mine. And it grieved me to reflect, that, after refusing the pressing +solicitations of my friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of +this island, I should so soon find myself reduced to the necessity of +engaging in hostilities against its inhabitants, which, perhaps, did +them more mischief than they had suffered from Towha's expedition.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is impossible not to think that Cook carried his +resentment farther than the necessity of the case required; at least +we may say, that the necessity, besides being in a great degree of +his own creating, did not warrant such extensive aggression. His +confessing his regret and concern must be allowed to prove this, and +at the same time to indicate the tenderness of his moral feelings. It +is one of the wisest precepts of practical wisdom, not to commit one's +self farther in threatenings, or vindictive resolutions, than it will +be quite safe and convenient to carry into effect.--E.] + +The next morning our intercourse with the natives was renewed; and +several canoes brought to the ships bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to +barter; from whence it was natural for me to draw this conclusion, +that they were conscious it was their own fault if I had treated them +with severity; and that the cause of my displeasure being removed, +they had a full confidence that no further mischief would ensue. + +About nine o'clock, we weighed with a breeze down the harbour; but it +proved so faint and variable, that it was noon before we got out to +sea, when I steered for Huaheine, attended by Omai in his canoe. He +did not depend entirely upon his own judgment, but had got on board a +pilot. I observed that they shaped as direct a course for the island +as I could do. + +At Eimeo, we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. We had not +taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have +been very inconvenient; there not being a tree at Matavai but what +is useful to the inhabitants. We also got here good store of +refreshments, both in hogs and vegetables; that is, bread-fruit and +cocoa-nuts; little else being in season. I do not know that there is +any difference between the produce of this island and of Otaheite; but +there is a very striking difference in their women that I can by no +means account for. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark +hue, and, in general, forbidding features. If we met with a fine woman +among them, we were sure, upon enquiry, to find that she had come from +some other island. + +The general appearance of Eimeo is very different from that Otaheite. +The latter rising in one steep hilly body, has little low land, except +some deep valleys; and the flat border that surrounds the greatest +part of it toward the sea. Eimeo, on the contrary, has hills running +in different directions, which are very steep and rugged, leaving, in +the interspaces, very large valleys, and gently-rising grounds about +their sides. These hills, though of a rocky disposition, are, in +general, covered, almost to their tops, with trees; but the lower +parts, on the sides, frequently only with fern. At the bottom of the +harbour, where we lay, the ground rises gently to the foot of the +hills, which run across nearly in the middle of the island; but its +flat border, on each side, at a very small distance from the sea, +becomes quite steep. This gives it a romantic cast, which renders it a +prospect superior to any thing we saw at Otaheite. The soil, about +the low grounds, is a yellowish and pretty stiff mould; but, upon the +lower hills, it is blacker and more loose; and the stone that composes +the hills, is, when broken, of a blueish colour, but not very +compact texture, with some particles of _glimmer_ interspersed. These +particles seem worthy of observation. Perhaps the reader will think +differently of my judgment, when I add, that, near the station of our +ships, were two large stones, or rather rocks, concerning which +the natives have some superstitious notions. They consider them as +_eatooas_, or divinities; saying, that they are brother and sister, +and that they came by some supernatural means from Ulieta. + + +SECTION VI. + +_Arrival at Huaheine.--Council of the Chiefs.--Omai's Offerings, and +Speech to the Chiefs.--His Establishment in this Island agreed +to.--A House built, and Garden planted for him.--Singularity of his +Situation.--Measures taken to insure his Safety.--Damage done +by Cock-roaches on board the Ships.--A Thief detected and +punished.--Fire-works exhibited.--Animals left with Omai.--His +Family.--Weapons.--Inscription on his House.--His Behaviour on +the Ships leaving the Island.--Summary View of his Conduct and +Character.--Account of the two New Zealand Youths._ + +Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at day-break, +the next morning we saw Huaheine, extending from S.W. by W. 1/2 W., +to W. by N. At noon, we anchored at the north entrance of Owharre +harbour, which is on the west side of the island. The whole afternoon +was spent in warping the ships into a proper birth and mooring. Omai +entered the harbour just before us, in his canoe, but did not land. +Nor did he take much notice of any of his countrymen, though many +crowded to see him; but far more of them came off to the ships, +insomuch that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. Our +passengers presently acquainted them with what we had done at Eimeo, +and multiplied the number of houses and canoes that we had destroyed, +by ten at least. I was not sorry for this exaggerated account, as I +saw that it made a great impression upon all who heard it; so that +I had hopes it would induce the inhabitants of this island to behave +better to us than they had done during my former visits. + +While I was at Otaheite, I had learned that my old friend Oree was no +longer the chief of Huaheine; and that, at this time, he resided +at Ulietea. Indeed, he never had been more than regent during the +minority of Taireetareea, the present _earee rahie_; but he did not +give up the regency till he was forced. His two sons, Opoony and +Towha, were the first who paid me a visit, coming on board before the +ship was well in the harbour, and bringing a present with them. + +Our arrival brought all the principal people of the island to our +ships, on the next morning, being the 13th. This was just what +I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai; and the +presence of these chiefs, I guessed, would enable me to do it in the +most satisfactory manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to +establish himself at Ulietea; and if he and I could have agreed about +the mode of bringing that plan to bear, I should have had no objection +to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola, +when they conquered Ulietea, of some land in that island; and I made +no doubt of being able to get it restored to the son in an amicable +manner. For that purpose it was necessary that he should be upon good +terms with those who now were masters of the island; but he was too +great a patriot to listen to any such thing; and was vain enough to +suppose that I would reinstate him in his forfeited lands by force. +This made it impossible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me +Huaheine as the proper place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself +of the presence of the chief men of the island, and to make this +proposal to them. + +After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal +visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce this business. Omai +dressed himself very properly on the occasion, and prepared a handsome +present for the chief himself, and another for his _eatooa_. Indeed, +after he had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he +behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our landing drew most +of our visitors from the ships; and they, as well as those that were +on shore, assembled in a large house. The concourse of people, on this +occasion, was very great; and, amongst them, there appeared to be a +greater proportion of personable men and women than we had ever seen +in one assembly, at any of these new islands. Not only the bulk of +the people seemed, in general, much stouter and fairer than those of +Otaheite, but there was also a much greater number of men who appeared +to be of consequence, in proportion to the extent of the island, most +of whom had exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs of Wateeoo. +We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I would do nothing till the +_earee rahie_ came; but, when he appeared, I found that his presence +might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years +of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great +men, began with making his offering to the gods, consisting of red +feathers, cloth, &c. Then followed another offering, which was to be +given to the gods by the chief; and after that, several other small +pieces and tufts of red feathers were presented. Each article was laid +before one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and +was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's +friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these +prayers, he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had +brought him safe back. The _earee rahie no Pretane_, Lord Sandwich, +_Toote_, _Tatee_,[1] were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's +offerings and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, +in the same order in which it had been laid before him, and after +repeating a prayer, sent it to the _morai_, which, as Omai told us, +was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would have been made +there. + +[Footnote 1: Cook and Clerke.] + +These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, +and we entered upon business, by giving the young chief my present, +and receiving his in return; and, all things considered, they were +liberal enough on both sides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, +as to the manner of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us; and I +pointed out the mischievous consequences that would attend their +robbing us, as they had done during my former visits. Omai's +establishment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs. + +He acquainted them, "that he had been carried by us into our country, +where he was well received by the great king and his _earees_, and +treated with every mark of regard and affection while he staid amongst +us; that he had been brought back again, enriched, by our liberality, +with a variety of articles which would prove very useful to his +countrymen; and that, besides the two horses which were to remain with +him, several other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, +which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient number for the +use of all the islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them +that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, +that they would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to +raise provisions for himself and servants; adding, that if this could +not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I +was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." + +Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend than he +actually delivered; but these were the topics I dictated to him. I +observed that what he concluded with, about carrying him to Ulietea, +seemed to meet with the approbation of all the chiefs; and I instantly +saw the reason. Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly +flattered himself that I meant to use force in restoring him to his +father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly, and without any +authority from me, on this subject, to some of the present assembly, +who dreamed of nothing less than a hostile invasion of Ulietea, and of +being assisted by me to drive the Bolabola men out of that island. It +was of consequence, therefore, that I should undeceive them; and, +in order to this, I signified, in the most peremptory manner, that I +neither would assist them in such an enterprise, nor suffer it to be +put in execution, while I was in their seas; and that, if Omai fixed +himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced as a friend, and not forced +upon the Bolabola men as their conqueror. + +This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of the council. One +of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect: "That the +whole island of Huaheine, and every thing in it, were mine; and that, +therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." +Omai, who, like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond +the present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this, thinking, no +doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him enough. But to +offer what it would have been improper to accept, I considered as +offering nothing at all, and, therefore, I now desired that they would +not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of +land which they would allot for the settlement. Upon this, some chiefs +who had already left the assembly, were sent for; and, after a short +consultation among themselves, my request was granted by general +consent, and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the +house where our meeting was held. The extent, along the shore of the +harbour, was about two hundred yards; and its depth, to the foot +of the hill, somewhat more; but a proportional part of the hill was +included in the grant. + +This business being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, I set +up a tent ashore, established a post, and erected the observatories. +The carpenters of both ships were also set to work to build a small +house for Omai, in which he might secure the European commodities +that were his property. At the same time, some hands were employed in +making a garden for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, +melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable articles; all of +which I had the satisfaction of observing to be in a flourishing state +before I left the island. + +Omai now began seriously to attend to his own affairs, and repented +heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at +Huaheine, a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law; the sister being +married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his +other relations. I was sorry, however, to discover that, though +they were too honest to do him any injury, they were of too little +consequence in the island to do him any positive good. They had +neither authority nor influence to protect his person, or his +property; and, in that helpless situation, I had reason to apprehend +that he run great risk of being stripped of every thing he had got +from us, as soon as he should cease to have us within his reach, to +enforce the good behaviour of his countrymen, by an immediate appeal +to our irresistible power. + +A man who is richer than his neighbours is sure to be envied, by +numbers who wish to see him brought down to their own level. But +in countries where civilization, law, and religion impose their +restraints, the rich have a reasonable ground of security. And besides +there being, in all such communities, a diffusion of property, no +single individual need fear, that the efforts of all the poorer +sort can ever be united to injure him, exclusively of others who are +equally the objects of envy. It was very different with Omai. He was +to live amongst those who are strangers, in a great measure, to any +other principle of action besides the immediate impulse of their +natural feelings. But, what was his principal danger, he was to be +placed in the very singular situation of being the only rich man in +the community to which he was to belong. And having, by a fortunate +connection with us, got into his possession an accumulated quantity of +a species of treasure which none of his countrymen could create by any +art or industry of their own; while all coveted a share of this envied +wealth, it was natural to apprehend that all would be ready to join in +attempting to strip its sole proprietor. + +To prevent this, if possible, I advised him to make a proper +distribution of some of his moveables to two or three of the principal +chiefs, who, being thus gratified themselves, might be induced to +take him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries +of others. He promised to follow my advice; and I heard, with +satisfaction, before I sailed, that this very prudent step had been +taken. Not trusting, however, entirely to the operations of gratitude, +I had recourse to the more forcible motive of intimidation. With this +view, I took every opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, that +it was my intention to return to their island again, after being +absent the usual time; and that, if I did not find Omai in the same +state of security in which I was now to leave him, all those whom, I +should then discover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel +the weight of my resentment. This threatening declaration; will, +probably, have no inconsiderable effect; for our successive visits of +late years have taught these people to believe that our ships are to +return at certain periods; and while they continue to be impressed +with such a notion, which I thought it a fair stratagem to confirm, +Omai has some prospect of being permitted to thrive upon his new +plantation. + +While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the bread remaining in +the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches that +infested the ship, at this time, is incredible. The damage they did us +was very considerable; and every method devised by us to destroy them +proved ineffectual. These animals which, at first, were a nuisance, +like all other insects, had now become a real pest, and so +destructive, that few things were free from, their ravages. If food +of any kind was exposed, only for a few minutes, it was covered with +them, and they soon pierced it full of holes, resembling a honey-comb. +They were particularly destructive to birds which had been stuffed and +preserved as curiosities, and what was worse, were uncommonly fond of +ink, so that the writing on the labels fastened to different articles +were quite eaten out; and the only thing that preserved books from +them was the closeness of the binding, which prevented these devourers +getting between the leaves. According to Mr Anderson's observations, +they were of two sorts, the _blatta orientalis_ and _germanica_. +The first of these had been carried home in the ship from her former +voyage, where they withstood the severity of the hard winter in 1776, +though she was in dock all the time. The others had only made their +appearance since our leaving New Zealand, but had increased so fast, +that they now not only did all the mischief mentioned above, but +had even got amongst the rigging, so that when a sail was loosened, +thousands of them fell upon the decks. The orientates, though in +infinite numbers, scarcely came out but in the night, when they made +every thing in the cabins seem as if in motion, from the particular +noise in crawling about. And, besides their disagreeable appearance, +they did great mischief to our bread, which was so bespattered with +their excrement, that it would have been badly relished by delicate +feeders. + +The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried on between +us and the natives, without being disturbed by any one accident, till +the evening of the 22d, when a man found means to get into Mr Bayly's +observatory, and to carry off a sextant unobserved. As soon as I was +made acquainted with the theft, I went ashore, and got Omai to apply +to the chiefs to procure restitution. He did so; but they took no +steps toward it, being more attentive to a _heeva_ that was then +acting, till I ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. +They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and began to make some +enquiry after the thief, who was sitting in the midst of them, quite +unconcerned, insomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the +guilty person, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me +that he was the man, I sent him on board the ship, and there confined +him. This raised a general ferment amongst the assembled natives; and +the whole body fled in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having +employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was +brought to confess where he had hid the sextant; but, as it was now +dark, we could not find it till day-light the next morning, when it +was brought back unhurt. After this, the natives recovered from their +fright, and began to gather about us as usual. And, as to the thief, +he appearing to be a hardened scoundrel, I punished him more severely +than I had ever done any one culprit before. Besides having his head +and beard shaved, I ordered both his ears to be cut off and then +dismissed him.[2] + +[Footnote 2: We cannot suffer this action to be passed over, without +expressing indignation at the cruelty and injustice that marked it. +Not even the fair reputation of Cook for meekness and humanity ought +to deter any one from affixing the proper term to such conduct. He had +no right to award so severe a treatment, even though he had authority +to take cognizance of the man's former and general character, +which, however, it is impossible, on any satisfactory principle, to +demonstrate. It was both the duty and the interest of Captain Cook to +conform to the established maxims and decisions of the people whom +he visited, which, whatever their own practice had been, would have +proved amply severe, as we have already had occasion to observe; but +no superiority of power on his part, could warrant the introduction of +unrecognized, and to these islanders it is probable, quite unheard-of +modes of punishment. A suspicion, some persons may think a very unfair +one, lurks in the mind of the writer, that the captain had rather +_forgotten himself_ during this voyage, and that presuming, in some +degree, on his established fame and consequence, be exercised a +greater latitude of power than his original caution and sense of +responsibility would have permitted him to hazard, at an earlier +period of his career. Such undoubtedly is human nature, and it can +by no means be interpreted as an unjust aspersion, that Cook was +not exempted from its common infirmities. Captain King, as we shall +afterwards find, makes a remark on his acquired confidence with +respect to the savages, in the latter part of his professional life, +which, though in the most delicate manner imaginable, seems very +readily to fall in with the suspicion now stated. As might have been +expected, the over severe, and, at all events, imprudently managed +punishment, failed to operate beneficially on the poor wretch that +was subjected to it Perhaps it will be discovered to hold universally, +that wherever the appearance of revenge characterizes an act of +retributive justice, a feeling of the same principle hardens the +breast of the culprit, besides influencing the speculative judgments +of those who witness it But it were foolish to expect, that either one +or other will avow the existence of so dangerous a motive. The only +excuse that offers itself in. behalf of Captain Cook's conduct on this +occasion, is stated in what he immediately mentions of the anarchy +existing in this island. But even that is only a palliation in part, +and does not reach to the full amount of the case. Let the reader +judge.--E.] + +This, however, did not deter him from giving us farther trouble; for, +in the night between the 24th and 25th, a general alarm was spread, +occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this +very man. On examination, we found that all was safe in that quarter. +Probably, the goats were so well guarded, that he could not put his +design in execution. But his hostilities had succeeded against another +object, and it appeared that he had destroyed and carried off several +vines and cabbage-plants in Omai's grounds; add he publicly threatened +to kill him, and to burn his house as soon as we should leave the +island. To prevent the fellow's doing me and Omai any more mischief, +I had him seized, and confined again on board the ship, with a view +of carrying him off the island; and it seemed to give general +satisfaction to the chiefs, that I meant thus to dispose of him. He +was from Bolabola; but there were too many of the natives here ready +to assist him in any of his designs, whenever he should think of +executing them. I had always met with more troublesome people in +Huaheine than in any other of the neighbouring islands; and it was +only fear, and the want of opportunities, that induced them to behave +better now. Anarchy, seemed to prevail amongst them. Their nominal +sovereign the _earee rahie_, as I have before observed, was but a +child; and I did not find that there was any one man, or set of +men who managed the government for him; so that, whenever any +misunderstanding happened between us, I never knew, with sufficient +precision, where to make application, in order to bring about an +accommodation, or to procure redress. The young chiefs mother would, +indeed, sometimes exert herself, but I did not perceive that she had +greater authority than many others. + +Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his moveables were carried +ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other useless articles was +a box of toys, which, when exposed to public view, seemed greatly to +please the gazing multitude. But, as to his pots, kettles, dishes, +plates, drinking-mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic +accommodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look +at them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of no manner +of use to him; that a baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled +one, that a plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter, and +that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a blackjack. And, +therefore, he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles +of English furniture for the kitchen and pantry, as he could find +purchasers for, amongst the people of the ships; receiving from them +in return, hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic +value in this part of the world, and added more to his distinguishing +superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his +days. + +In the long list of the presents bestowed upon him in England, +fire-works had not been forgot. Some of these we exhibited in the +evening of the 28th, before a great concourse of people, who beheld +them with a mixture of pleasure and fear. What remained, after the +evening's entertainment, were put in order, and left with Omai, +agreeably to their original destination. Perhaps we need not lament +it as a serious misfortune, that the far greater share of this part of +his cargo, had been already expended in exhibitions at other islands, +or rendered useless by being kept so long. + +Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola +man, whom I had in confinement, found means to make his escape out' of +the ship. He carried with him the shackle of the bilbo-bolt that was +about his leg, which was taken from him, as soon as he got on shore, +by one of the chiefs, and given to Omai, who came on board very early +in the morning, to acquaint me that his mortal enemy was again let +loose upon him. Upon enquiry, it appeared that not only the sentry +placed over the prisoner, but the whole watch upon the quarter-deck +where he was confined, had laid themselves down to sleep. He +seized the opportunity to take the key of the irons out of the +binnacle-drawer, where he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. +This escape convinced me that my people had been very remiss in their +night duty, which made it necessary to punish those who were now +in fault, and to establish some new regulations to prevent the +like negligence for the future. I was not a little pleased to hear, +afterward, that the fellow who escaped had transported himself to +Ulietea; in this, seconding my views of putting him a second time in +irons.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Might not so spirited a fellow as this, by proper +treatment, have been made a most useful agent? How many talents are +often lost to society, because governments are more necessitated, or +at least more accustomed, to punish transgressions, than willing to +be at the pains of rewarding ability and fostering genius! And yet the +latter process, it might not be difficult to prove, would be much less +expensive than the former.--E.] + +As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I began to think +of leaving the island; and got every thing off from the shore, this +evening, except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid, which +were left in the possession of our friend, with whom we were now +finally to part. I also gave him a boar and two sows of the English +breed; and he had got a sow or two of his own. The horse covered the +mare while we were at Otaheite; so that I consider the introduction of +a breed of horses into these islands as likely to have succeeded, by +this valuable present. + +The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous class of +readers more than any other occurrence of a voyage, the objects +of which do not, in general, promise much entertainment. Every +circumstance, therefore, which may serve to convey a satisfactory +account of the exact situation in which he was left, will be thought +worth preserving; and the following particulars are added, to complete +the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up at Otaheite +four or five _toutous_; the two New Zealand youths remained with him; +and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine; so that +his family consisted already of eight or ten persons, if that can be +called a family to which not a single female as yet belonged, nor I +doubt was likely to belong, unless its master became less volatile. +At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a +wife. + +The house which we erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen, +and ten feet high. It was composed of boards, the spoils of our +military operations at Eimeo; and, in building it, as few nails as +possible were used, that there might be no inducement, from the love +of iron, to pull it down. It was settled, that, immediately after our +departure, he should begin to build a large house after the fashion of +his country, one end of which was to be brought over that which we had +erected, so as to enclose it entirely for greater security. In this +work, some of the chiefs promised to assist him; and, if the intended +building should cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as +large as most upon the island. + +His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box, +a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or +cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy, which was +my only view in giving him such presents. For I was always of opinion +that he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European +weapons, than with them, as such implements of war, in the hands of +one, whose prudent use of them I had some grounds for mistrusting, +would rather increase his dangers than establish his superiority. +After he had got on shore every thing that belonged to him, and was +settled in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships, two +or three times, to dinner; and his table was always well supplied with +the very best provisions that the island produced. + +Before I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon the outside +of his house:-- + + _Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777._ + _Naves { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._ + _{ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._ + +On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, I took the advantage +of a breeze which then sprung up at E., and sailed out of the harbour. +Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were under sail; +when, to gratify their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. +They then all took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we +were at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the shore. In +casting the ship, it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer end +was left behind, as those who cast it off did not perceive that it +was broken, so that it became necessary to send a boat to bring it +on board. In this boat, Omai went ashore, after taking a very +affectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with +a manly resolution till he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to +conceal his tears failed; and Mr King, who went in the boat, told me, +that he wept all the time in going ashore. + +It was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought him safe +back to the very spot from which he was taken. And yet, such is the +strange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a +less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with +us. I do not by this mean, that because he has tasted the sweets of +civilized life, he must become more miserable from being obliged to +abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myself to this +single disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages he received from +us have placed him in a more hazardous situation, with respect to his +personal safety. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost sight +of his original condition; and never considered in what manner his +acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be estimated by +his countrymen at his return, which were the only things he could have +to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could +build either his future greatness or happiness. He seemed even to have +mistaken their genius in this respect, and, in some measure, to have +forgotten their customs, otherwise he must have known the extreme +difficulty there would be in getting himself admitted as a person of +rank, where there is, perhaps, no instance of a man's being raised +from an inferior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the +very foundation of all distinction here, and, of its attendant, power; +and so pertinaciously, or rather blindly adhered to, that, unless a +person has some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and hated, +if he assumes the appearance of exercising any authority. This was +really the case, in some measure, with Omai, though his countrymen +were pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained +amongst them. Had he made a proper use of the presents he brought +with him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by +travelling so far, might have enabled him to form the most useful +connections. But we have given too many instances, in the course of +our narrative, of his childish inattention to this obvious means of +advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher though +ridiculous nature, indeed I might say meaner; for revenge, rather +than a desire of becoming great, appeared to actuate him from the +beginning. This, however, maybe excused, if we consider that it +is common to his countrymen. His father was, doubtless, a man of +considerable property in Ulietea, when that island was conquered by +those of Bolabola, and, with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine, +where he died, and left Omai, with some other children; who, by that +means, became totally dependent. In this situation he was taken up by +Captain Furneaux, and carried to England. Whether he really expected, +from his treatment there, that any assistance would be given him +against the enemies of his father and his country, or whether he +imagined that his own personal courage and superiority of knowledge +would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is +uncertain; but, from the beginning of the voyage, this was his +constant theme. He would not listen to our remonstrances on so wild a +determination, but flew into a passion if more moderate and reasonable +counsels were proposed for his advantage. Nay, so infatuated and +attached to his favourite scheme was he, that he affected to believe +these people would certainly quit the conquered island, as soon as +they should hear of his arrival in Otaheite. As we advanced, however, +on our voyage, he became more sensible of his error; and, by the time +we reached the Friendly Islands, had even such apprehensions of his +reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would +fain have staid behind at Tongataboo, under Feenou's protection. At +these islands, he squandered away much of his European treasure very +unnecessarily; and he was equally imprudent, as I also took notice of +above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as +he had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai, he continued +the same inconsiderate behaviour, till I absolutely put a stop to his +profusion; and he formed such improper connections there, that Otoo, +who was at first much disposed to countenance him, afterward openly +expressed his dislike of him, on account of his conduct. It was not, +however, too late to recover his favour; and he might have settled, to +great advantage, in Otaheite, as he had formerly lived several years +there, and was now a good deal noticed by Towha, whose valuable +present, of a very large double canoe, we have seen above. The +objection to admitting him to some rank would have also been much +lessened, if he had fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always find +it more difficult to accomplish such a change of state amongst his +countrymen, than a stranger who naturally claims respect. But Omai +remained undetermined to the last, and would not, I believe, have +adopted my plan of settlement in Huaheine, if I had not so explicitly +refused to employ force in restoring him to his father's possessions. +Whether the remains of his European wealth, which after all his +improvident waste, was still considerable, will be more prudently +administered by him, or whether the steps I took, as already +explained, to insure him protection in Huaheine, shall have proved +effectual, must be left to the decision of future navigators of this +ocean, with whom it cannot but be a principal object of curiosity to +trace the future fortunes of our traveller. At present, I can only +conjecture that his greatest danger will arise from the very impolitic +declarations of his antipathy to the inhabitants of Bolabola. For +these people, from a principle of jealousy, will, no doubt, endeavour +to render him obnoxious to those of Huaheine; as they are at peace +with that island at present, and may easily effect their designs, many +of them living there. This is a circumstance, which, of all others, he +might the most easily have avoided. For they were not only free from +any aversion to him, but the person mentioned before, whom we found +at Tiaraboo as an ambassador, priest, or god, absolutely offered to +reinstate him in the property that was formerly his father's. But he +refused this peremptorily; and, to the very last, continued determined +to take the first opportunity that offered of satisfying his revenge +in battle. To this, I guess, he was not a little spurred by the coat +of mail he brought from England; clothed in which, and in possession +of some fire-arms, he fancied that he should be invincible. + +Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were more than +overbalanced by his great good-nature and docile disposition. +During the whole time he was with me, I very seldom had reason to +be seriously displeased with his general conduct. His grateful heart +always retained the highest sense of the favours he had received in +England, nor will he ever forget those who honoured him with their +protection and friendship, during his stay there. He had a tolerable +share of understanding, but wanted application and perseverance to +exert it; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and, in +many instances, imperfect. He was not a man of much observation. There +were many useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the +people of the Friendly Islands, which he might have conveyed to his +own, where they probably would have been readily adopted, as being +so much in their own way. But I never found that he used the least +endeavour to make himself master of any one. This kind of indifference +is indeed the characteristic foible of his nation. Europeans have +visited them at times for these ten years past, yet we could not +discover the slightest trace of any attempt to profit by this +intercourse, nor have they hitherto copied after us in any one thing. +We are not, therefore, to expert that Omai will be able to introduce +many of our arts and customs amongst them, or much improve those to +which they have been long habituated. I am confident, however, that +he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and +vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the +greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai's +travels, will be in the animals that have been left upon them, which, +probably, they never would have got, had he not come to England. When +these multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite and +the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known +word, for provisions. + +Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of +our liberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers +to attend me to _Pretane_. I took every opportunity of expressing my +determination to reject all such applications. But, notwithstanding +this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great +traveller, being afraid lest I might be prevailed upon to put others +in a situation of rivalling him, frequently put me in mind that Lord +Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to +England. + +If there had been the most distant probability of any ship being +again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youths of that +country home with me, as both of them were very desirous of continuing +with us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an exceedingly well-diposed +young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any +instruction. He seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority of his +own country to these islands, and resigned himself, though perhaps +with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But +the other was so strongly attached to us, that he was taken out of the +ship, and carried ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy; and, on +that account, much noticed on board.[4] + +[Footnote 4: Some particulars respecting the subsequent history of +Omai and the two New Zealanders, are related in the account of Captain +Bligh's voyage in 1788. We ought not to anticipate matter which +properly belongs to another period and subject. It seems right, +however, in the present instance, to set the reader's expectations at +rest, though the doing so be somewhat afflictive to his feelings. +Omai died a natural death about thirty months after Captain Cook's +departure, but not till he had the satisfaction of experiencing +the importance of the arms and ammunition he was master of, in a +successful engagement which his countrymen had with the people of +Ulietea and Bolabola. Peace soon followed, but it does not seem that +his exertions on this occasion procured him any additional possessions +or elevation of rank. From the good character, however, which his +countrymen gave of him, it appeared that he had conducted himself with +such general propriety as gained their applause. The New Zealanders +did not long survive him, but scarcely any satisfactory information of +their history could be obtained.--E.] + + +SECTION VII. + +_Arrival at Ulietea.--Astronomical Observations.--A Marine deserts, +and is delivered up.--Intelligence from Omai.--Instructions to Captain +Clerke.--Another Desertion of a Midshipman and a Seaman.--Three of +the chief Persons of the Island confined on that Account.--A Design to +seize Captains Cook and Clerke, discovered.--The two Deserters brought +back, and the Prisoners released.--The Ships sail.--Refreshments +received at Ulietea.--Present and former State of that +Island.--Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of +Huaheine._ + +The boat which carried Omai ashore, never to join us again, having +returned to the ship, with the remainder of the hawser, we hoisted her +in, and immediately stood over for Ulietea, where I intended to touch +next. At ten o'clock at night, we brought-to, till four the next +morning, when we made sail round the south end of the island, for the +harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs of wind, from +different directions, by turns; so that, at noon, we were still a +league from the entrance of the harbour. While we were thus detained, +my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his son and Pootoe, his +son-in-law, came off to visit us. + +Being resolved to push for the harbour, I ordered all the boats to be +hoisted out, and sent them a-head to tow, being assisted by a slight +breeze from the southward. This breeze failed too soon, and being +succeeded by one from the E., which blew right out of the harbour, we +were obliged to come to an anchor at its entrance at two o'clock, and +to warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as we were +within the harbour, the ships were surrounded with canoes filled +with people, who brought hogs and fruit to barter with us for our +commodities, so that wherever we went we found plenty. + +Next morning, being the 4th, I moored the ship head and stern close to +the north shore, at the head of the harbour; hauled up the cables on +deck, and opened one of the ballast-ports. From this a slight stage +was made to the land, being at the distance of about twenty feet, with +a view to get clear of some of the rats that continued to infest us. +The Discovery moored alongside the south shore for the same purpose. +While this work was going forward, I returned Oreo's visit. The +present I made him on the occasion, consisted of a linen gown, a +shirt, a red-feathered cap from Tongataboo, and other things of less +value. I then brought him and some of his friends on board to dinner. + +On the 6th, we set up the observatories, and got the necessary +instruments on shore. The two following days we observed the sun's +azimuths, both on board and ashore, with all the compasses, in order +to find the variation; and in the night of the latter, observed an +occultation of _Sigma Capricorni_, by the moon's dark limb. Mr Bayly and +I agreed in fixing the time of its happening, at six minutes and +fifty-four seconds and a half past ten o'clock. Mr King made it half +a second sooner. Mr Bayly observed with the achromatic telescope +belonging to the board of longitude; Mr King, with the reflector +belonging also to the board; and I made use of my own reflector of +eighteen inches. There was also an immersion of _Pi Capricorni_ behind +the moon's dark limb, some time before, but it was observed by Mr +Bayly alone. I attempted to trace it with a small achromatic, but +found its magnifying power not sufficient. + +Nothing worthy of note happened till the night between the 12th +and 13th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at the +observatory, deserted, carrying with him his musket and accoutrements. +Having in the morning got intelligence which way he had moved off, a +party was sent after him; but they returned in the evening, after an +ineffectual enquiry and search. The next day I applied to the chief +to interest himself in this matter. He promised to send a party of his +men after him, and gave me hopes that he should be brought back the +same day. But this did not happen; and I had reason to suspect that no +steps had been taken by him. We had at this time a great number of +the natives about the ships, and some thefts were committed; the +consequence of which being dreaded by them, very few visitors came +near us the next morning. The chief himself joined in the alarm, and +he and his whole family fled. I thought this a good opportunity to +oblige them to deliver up the deserter; and having got intelligence +that he was at a place called Hamoa, on the other side of the island, +I went thither with two armed boats, accompanied by one of the +natives; and, in our way, we found the chief, who also embarked +with me. I landed about a mile and a half from the place, with a +few people, and marched briskly up to it, lest the sight of the +boat should give the alarm, and allow the man time to escape to the +mountains. But this precaution was unnecessary, for the natives there +had got information of my coming, and were prepared to deliver him up. + +I found Harrison, with the musket lying before him, sitting between +two women, who, the moment that I entered the house, rose up to plead +in his behalf. As it was highly proper to discourage such proceedings, +I frowned upon them, and bid them begone. Upon this they burst into +tears, and walked off. Paha, the chief of the district, now came with +a plantain tree, and a sucking pig, which he would have presented +to me as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of my +sight; and having embarked with the deserter on board the first boat +that arrived, returned to the ships. After this, harmony was again +restored. The fellow had nothing to say in his defence, but that the +natives had enticed him away; and this might in part be true, as it +was certain that Paha, and also the two women above-mentioned, had +been at the ship the day before he deserted. As it appeared that he +remained upon his post till within a few minutes of the time when he +was to have been relieved, the punishment that I inflicted upon him +was not very severe. + +Though we had separated from Omai, we were still near enough to have +intelligence of his proceedings; and I had desired to hear from him. +Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea, he +sent two of his people in a canoe, who brought me the satisfactory +intelligence that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, +and that every thing went well with him, except that his goat had died +in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence with a request, that I +would send him another goat and two axes. Being happy to have this +additional opportunity of serving him, the messengers were sent back +to Huaheine on the 18th, with the axes and two kids, male and female, +which were spared for him out of the Discovery. + +The next day I delivered to Captain Clerke instructions how to proceed +in case of being separated from me, after leaving these islands; and +it may not be improper to give them a place here. + + +_By Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majesty's Sloop the +Resolution._ + +"Whereas the passage from the Society Islands to the northern coast of +America, is of considerable length, both in distance and in time, and +as a part of it must be performed in the very depth of winter, when +gales of wind and bad weather must be expected, and may possibly +occasion a separation, you are to take all imaginable care to prevent +this. But if, notwithstanding all our endeavours to keep company, you +should be separated from me, you are first to look for me where +you last saw me. Not seeing me in five days, you are to proceed (as +directed by the instructions of their lordships, a copy of which you +have already received) for the coast of New Albion; endeavouring to +fall in with it in the latitude of 45 deg.. + +"In that latitude, and at a convenient distance from the land, you are +to cruize for me ten days. Not seeing me in that time, you are to put +into the first convenient port in or to the north of that latitude, to +recruit your wood and water, and to procure refreshments. + +"During your stay in port, you are constantly to keep a good look-out +for me. It will be necessary, therefore, to make choice of a station, +situated as near the sea-coast as is possible, the better to enable +you to see me when I shall appear in the offing. + +"If I do not join you before the 1st of next April, you are to put to +sea, and proceed northward to the latitude 56 deg.; in which latitude, +and at a convenient distance from the coast, never exceeding fifteen +leagues, you are to cruize for me till the 10th of May. + +"Not seeing me in that time, you are to proceed northward, and +endeavour to find a passage into the Atlantic Ocean, through Hudson's +or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the above-mentioned instructions. + +"But if you should fail in finding a passage through either of the +said bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render +it unsafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair +to the harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, in order to +refresh your people, and to pass the winter. + +"But, nevertheless, if you find that you cannot procure the necessary +refreshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you +shall judge most proper; taking care, before you depart, to leave with +the governor an account of your intended destination, to be delivered +to me upon my arrival; and in the spring of the ensuing year, 1779, +you are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, endeavouring to be +there by the 10th of May, or sooner. + +"If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account of me, so +as to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed +out in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are +to be governed by them. + +"You are also to comply with such parts of said instructions as have +not been executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in +case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these, +and the instructions of their lordships into execution, you are to be +careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby +required to execute them in the best manner he can. + +"Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at Ulietea, the 18th +day of November 1777. + +"J. COOK. + + + "To Captain Charles Clerke, Commander of his Majesty's Sloop + the Discovery," + +While we lay moored to the shore we heeled and scrubbed both sides of +the bottoms of the ships. At the same time we fixed some tin-plates +under the binds, first taking off the old sheathing, and putting in a +piece unfilled, over which the plates were nailed. These plates I +had from the ingenious Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners for +victualling his majesty's navy, with a view of trying whether tin +would answer the same end as copper on the bottoms of ships. + +On the 24th, in the morning, I was informed that a midshipman and a +seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Soon after we +learnt from the natives, that they went away in a canoe the preceding +evening, and were, at this time, at the other end of the island. As +the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these +islands, it seemed pretty certain that he and his companion had gone +off with this intention; and Captain Clerke set out in quest of them +with two armed boats and a party of marines. His expedition proved +fruitless, for he returned in the evening, without having got any +certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives, +Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the +deserters; and, with that view, had amused him with false information +the whole day, and directed him to search for them in places where +they were not to be found. The Captain judged right; for the next +morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two +were not the only persons in the ships who wished to end their days +at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further +desertion, it was necessary to get them back at all events; and, that +the natives might be convinced that I was in earnest, I resolved to go +after them myself; having observed, from repeated instances, that they +seldom offered to deceive me with false information. + +Accordingly, I set out the next morning with two armed boats, being +accompanied by the chief himself. I proceeded as he directed, without +stopping any where, till we came to the middle of the east side of +Otaha. There we put ashore, and Oreo dispatched a man before us, with +orders to seize the deserters, and keep them till we should arrive +with the boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find +them, we were told that they had quitted this island, and gone over +to Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow them +thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, however, to have +recourse to a measure which, I guessed, would oblige the natives to +bring them back. + +In the night, Mr Bayly, Mr King, and myself, observed an immersion of +Jupiter's third satellite. It happened, by the observation of + + Mr Bayly, at 2^h 37^m 54^s } + Mr King, at 2 37 24 } in the morning. + Myself, at 2 37 44 } + +Mr Bayly and Mr King observed with Dolland's three-and-a-half inch +achromatic telescope, and with the greatest magnifying power. I +observed with a two-feet Gregorian reflector, made by Bird. + +Soon after day-break, the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law, +came on board the Resolution. The three last I resolved to detain +till the two deserters should be brought back. With this view, Captain +Clerke invited them to go on board his ship; and, as soon as they +arrived there, confined them in his cabin. The chief was with me when +the news reached him. He immediately acquainted me with it, supposing +that this step had been taken without my knowledge, and, consequently, +without my approbation. I instantly undeceived him; and then he began +to have apprehensions as to his own situation, and his looks expressed +the utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon made him easy as to this; +by telling him, that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he +pleased, and to take such measures as he should judge best calculated +to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his friends on board +the Discovery should be delivered up, if not, that I was determined +to carry them away with me. I added, that his own conduct, as well +as that of many of his men, in not only assisting these two men to +escape, but in being, even at this very time, assiduous in enticing +others to follow them, would justify any step I could take to put a +stop to such proceedings. + +This explanation of the motives upon which I acted, and which we found +means to make Oreo and his people, who were present, fully comprehend, +seemed to recover them, in a great measure, from that general +consternation into which they were at first thrown. But, if relieved +from apprehensions about their own safety, they continued under the +deepest concern for those who were prisoners. Many of them went under +the Discovery's stern in canoes, to bewail their captivity, which they +did with long and loud exclamations. _Poedooa!_ for so the chief's +daughter was called, resounded from every quarter; and the women +seemed to vie with each other in mourning her fate with more +significant expressions of their grief than tears and cries, for there +were many bloody heads upon the occasion. + +Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but +instantly began his exertions to recover our deserters, by dispatching +a canoe to Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that +island, acquainting him with what had happened, and requesting him to +seize the two fugitives, and send them back. The messenger, who was no +less a man than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, before he set +out came to receive my commands. I strictly enjoined him not to return +without the deserters, and to tell Opoony, from me, that, if they had +left Bolabola, he must send canoes to bring them back, for I suspected +that they would not long remain in one place. + +The consequence, however, of the prisoners was so great, that the +natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for +their release; or, at least, their impatience was so great, that it +hurried them to meditate an attempt which might have involved them in +still greater distress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between +five and six o'clock in the evening, I observed that all their canoes +in and about the harbour began to move off, as if some sudden panic +had seized them. I was ashore, abreast of the ship at the time, and +enquired in vain to find out the cause, till our people called to +as from the Discovery, and told us, that a party of the natives had +seized Captain Clerke and Mr Gore, who had walked out a little way +from the ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, +which seemed to counteract me so effectually in my own way, there was +no time to deliberate. I instantly ordered the people to arm; and in +less than five minutes, a strong party, under the command of Mr King, +was sent to rescue our two gentlemen. At the same time, two armed +boats, and a party under Mr Williamson, went after the flying canoes, +to cut off their retreat to the shore. These several detachments +were hardly out of sight, before an account arrived that we had been +misinformed, upon which I sent and called them all in. + +It was evident, however, from several corroborating circumstances, +that the design of seizing Captain Clerke had really been in agitation +amongst the natives. Nay, they made no secret in speaking of it the +next day. But their first and great plan of operations was to have +laid hold of me. It was my custom, every evening, to bathe in the +fresh water. Very often I went alone, and always without arms. +Expecting me to go as usual this evening, they had determined to seize +me, and Captain Clerke too, if he had accompanied me. But I had, after +confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in +their power; and had cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to +go far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon the chief asked +me three several times, if I would not go to the bathing-place; and +when he found, at last, that I could not be prevailed upon, he went +off with the rest of his people, in spite of all that I could do or +say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion, at this time, of their +design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, which +would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves disappointed as to +me, they fixed on those who were more in their power. It was fortunate +for all parties that they did not succeed, and not less fortunate +that no mischief was done on the occasion; for not a musket was fired, +except two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, +Messrs Clerke and Gore owed their safety;[1] for, at that very +instant, a party of the natives, armed with clubs, were advancing +toward them, and, on hearing the report of the muskets, they +dispersed. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps they owed their safety principally to Captain +Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. +This circumstance is omitted both in Captain Cook's and Mr Andersen's +journal, but it is here mentioned on the authority of Captain +King.--D.] + +This conspiracy, as it may be called, was first discovered by a girl, +whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. She, overhearing +some of the Ulieteans say, that they would seize Captain Clerke and Mr +Gore, ran to acquaint the first of our people that she met with. Those +who were charged with the execution of the design threatened to kill +her as soon as we should leave the island, for disappointing them. +Being aware of this, we contrived that her friends should come, some +days after, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place +of safety, where she might lie concealed till they should have an +opportunity of sending her back to Huaheine. + +On the 27th, our observatories were taken down, and every thing we had +ashore carried on board; the moorings of the ships were cast off, and +we transported them a little way down the harbour, where they came to +an anchor again. Toward the afternoon the natives began to shake off +their fears, gathering round and on board the ships as usual, and the +awkward transactions of the day before seemed to be forgotten on both +sides. + +The following night the wind blew in hard squalls from S. to E. +attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable +by which the Resolution was riding, parted just without the hawse. +We had another anchor ready to let go, so that the ship was presently +brought up again. In the afternoon the wind became moderate, and we +hooked the end of the best small bower-cable, and got it again into +the hawse. + +Oreo, the chief, being uneasy, as well as myself, that no account had +been received from Bolabola, set out this evening for that island, +and desired me to follow him the next day with the ships. This was my +intention, but the wind would not admit of our getting to sea. But +the same wind which kept us in the harbour, brought Oreo back from +Bolabola, with the two deserters. They had reached Otaha the same +night they deserted; but, finding it impossible to get to any of the +islands to the eastward (which was their intention) for want of wind, +they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island +Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in consequence +of the first message sent to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, +the three prisoners were released. Thus ended an affair which had +given me much trouble and vexation. Nor would I have exerted myself so +resolutely on the occasion, but for the reasons before mentioned, and +to save the son of a brother officer from being lost to his country. + +The wind continued constantly between the N. and W. and confined us in +the harbour till eight o'clock in the morning of the 7th of December, +when we took the advantage of a light breeze which then sprung up at +N.E., and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with +the Discovery in company. + +During the last week we had been visited by people from all parts +of the island, who furnished us with a large stock of hogs and green +plantains. So that the time we lay wind-bound in the harbour was +not entirely lost; green plantains being an excellent substitute for +bread, as they will keep good a fortnight or three weeks. Besides this +supply of provisions, we also completed our wood and water. + +The inhabitants of Ulietea seemed, in general, smaller and blacker +than those of the other neighbouring islands, and appeared also less +orderly, which, perhaps, may be considered as the consequence of their +having become subject to the natives of Bolabola. Oreo, their chief, +is only a sort of deputy of the sovereign of that island; and the +conquest seems to have lessened the number of subordinate chiefs +resident among them; so that they are less immediately under the +inspection of those whose interest it is to enforce due obedience to +authority. Ulietea, though now reduced to this humiliating state, +was formerly, as we were told, the most eminent of this cluster of +islands, and, probably, the first seat of government; for, they say, +that the present royal family of Otaheite is descended from that which +reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch +of Ulietea, was still alive when we were at Huaheine, where he +resides, a royal wanderer, furnishing, in his person, an instance of +the instability of power; but, what is more remarkable, of the respect +paid by these people to particular families, and to the customs which +have once conferred sovereignty; for they suffer Ooroo to preserve all +the ensigns which they appropriate to majesty, though he has lost his +dominions. + +We saw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the +occasional visitors I now had was my old friend Oree, the late chief +of Huaheine. He still preserved his consequence; came always at the +head of a numerous body of attendants, and was always provided with +such presents as were very acceptable. This chief looked much better +now than I had ever seen him during either of my former voyages. I +could account for his improving in health as he grew older, only +from his drinking less copiously of _ava_ in his present station as +a private gentleman, than he had been accustomed to do when he was +regent.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Captain Cook had seen Oree in 1769, when he commanded the +Endeavour; also twice during his second voyage in 1772.--D.] + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Arrival at Bolabola.--Interview with Opoony.--Reasons for purchasing +Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor.--Departure from the Society +Islands.--Particulars about Bolabola.--History of the Conquest of +Otaha and Ulieta.--High Reputation of the Bolabola Men.--Animals left +there and at Ulietea.--Plentiful Supply of Provisions, and Manner of +salting Pork on Board.--Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and +the Society Islands.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations made +there._ + +As soon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took our leave of +Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not sole object I +had in view by visiting that island was, to procure from its monarch, +Opoony, one of the anchors which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at +Otaheite. This having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, +had, as they informed me, been sent by them as a present to that +chief. My desire to get possession of it did not arise, from our being +in want of anchors; but having expended all the hatchets, and +other iron tools which we had brought from England, in purchasing +refreshments, we were now reduced to the necessity of creating a fresh +assortment of trading articles, by fabricating them out of the spare +iron we had on board; and in such conversions, and in the occasional +uses of the ships, great part of that had been already expended. I +thought that M. de Bougainville's anchor would supply our want of this +useful material; and I made no doubt that I should be able to tempt +Opoony to part with it. + +Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a passage with us +to Bolabola. Indeed most of the natives in general, except the chief +himself, would have gladly taken a passage with us to England. At +sunset, being the length of the south point of Bolabola, we shortened +sail, and spent the night making short boards. At day-break, on the +8th, we made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the +island. The wind was scant, so that we had to ply up, and it was nine +o'clock before we got near enough to send away a boat to sound the +entrance, for I had thoughts of running the ships in, and anchoring +for a day or two. + +When the boat returned, the master, who was in her, reported, that +though at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there +was good ground within, and the depth of water twenty-seven and +twenty-five fathoms; and that there was room to turn the ships in, +the channel being one-third of a mile broad. In consequence of this +report, we attempted to work the ships in. But the tide, as well as +the wind, being against us, after making two or three trips, I found +that it could not be done till the tide should turn in our favour. +Upon this I gave up the design of carrying the ships into the harbour; +and having ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one of +them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions, and was rowed in for the +island. + +We landed where the natives directed us, and soon after I was +introduced to Opoony, in the midst of a great concourse of people. +Having no time to lose, as soon as the necessary formality of +compliments was over, I asked the chief to give me the anchor, and +produced the present I had prepared for him, consisting of a linen +night-gown, a shirt, some gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glass, some +beads and other toys, and six axes. At the sight of these last there +was a general outcry. I could only guess the cause, by Opoony's +absolutely refusing to receive my present till I should get the +anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me; and, as I +understood, I was to send by them what I thought proper in return. +With these messengers we set out in our boat for an island, lying at +the north side of the entrance into the harbour, where the anchor had +been deposited. I found it to be neither so large nor so perfect as I +expected. It had originally weighed seven hundred pounds, according +to the mark that was upon it; but the ring, with part of the shank and +two palms, were now wanting. I was no longer at a loss to guess the +reason of Opoony's refusing my present. He doubtless thought that it +so much exceeded the value of the anchor in its present state, that +I should be displeased when I saw it. Be this as it may, I took the +anchor as I found it, and sent him every article of the present that I +at first intended. Having thus completed my negociation, I returned on +board, and having hoisted in the boats, made sail from the island to +the north.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Here again is a trait of genuine nobility, sufficient, we +have no doubt, to reinstate our commander in the good graces of every +reader. On the other hand, there is something so truly honest on +the part of Opoony and his people in declining the acceptance of the +present, till Cook had seen the article he was bargaining for, that +we cannot help giving them high credit for moral attainments. How +forcibly does such a conduct prove the existence of a sense of the +law, which says, "Do to others, as you would that others should do to +you." It is curious, that some authors have maintained, that no such +law is recognised among mankind till they are made acquainted with +divine revelation. But these persons have confounded together two +things, which are quite distinct,--a sense of the obligation of such a +law, and a disposition and power to obey it. The former may exist, and +indeed more generally does exist, without the latter. But we see, by +the present example, that both may operate, where, according to this +opinion, no such thing as either could be found. Here, however, +we would not take it upon us to affirm any thing in respect of +the motives which influenced the obedience. In so far as our +fellow-creatures alone are concerned, it is barely and simply our +actions which ought to be considered. It is the prerogative of +a higher tribunal to judge of the heart and the principles it +contains.--E.] + +While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives came off in +three or four canoes to see the ships, as they said. They brought with +them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, which was the only one we got at +the island. I make no doubt, however, that if we had staid till the +next day, we should have been plentifully supplied with provisions; +and I think the natives would feel themselves disappointed when they +found that we were gone. But as we had already a very good stock, both +of hogs and of fruit on board, and very little of any thing left to +purchase more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the +prosecution of our voyage. + +The harbour of Bolabola, called Oteavanooa, situated on the west side +of the island, is one of the most capacious that I ever met with; and +though we did not enter it, it was a satisfaction to me that I had +an opportunity of employing my people to ascertain its being a very +proper place for the reception of ships. + +The high double-peaked mountain, which is in the middle of the island, +appeared to be barren on the east side; but on the west side, has +trees or bushes on its most craggy parts. The lower grounds, all round +toward the sea, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, +like the other islands of this ocean; and the many little islets that +surrounded it on the inside of the reef, add both to the amount of its +vegetable productions and to the number of its inhabitants. + +But still, when we consider its very small extent, being not more +than eight leagues in compass, it is rather remarkable that its people +should have attempted, or have been able to atchieve the conquest of +Ulietea and Otaha, the former of which islands is, of itself, at least +double its size. In each of my three voyages, we had heard much of the +war that produced this great revolution. The result of our enquiries, +as to the circumstances attending it, may amuse the reader; and I give +it as a specimen of the history of our friends, in this part of the +world, as related to us by themselves.[2] + +[Footnote 2: For this, as for many other particulars about these +people, we are indebted to Mr Anderson.--D.] + +Ulietea, and Otaha which adjoins it, lived long in friendship, or, as +the natives express it, were considered as two brothers, inseparable +by any interested views. They also admitted the island of Huaheine as +their friend, though not so intimate. Otaha, however, like a traitor, +leagued with Bolabola, and they resolved jointly to attack Ulietea; +whose people called in their friends of Huaheine to assist them +against these two powers. The men of Bolabola were encouraged by a +priestess, or rather prophetess, who foretold that they should be +successful; and, as a proof of the certainty of her prediction, she +desired, that a man might be sent to the sea, at a particular place, +where, from a great depth, a stone would ascend. He went, accordingly, +in a canoe to the place mentioned; and was going to dive to see +where this stone lay, when, behold, it started up to the surface +spontaneously into his hand! The people were astonished at the sight: +The stone was deposited as sacred in the house of the _Eatooa_; and is +still preserved at Bolabola, as a proof of this woman's influence +with the divinity. Their spirits being thus elevated with the hopes of +victory, the canoes of Bolabola set out to engage those of Ulietea +and Huaheine, which being strongly fastened together with ropes, +the encounter lasted long, and would probably, notwithstanding +the prediction and the miracle, have ended in the overthrow of the +Bolabola fleet, if that of Otaha had not, in the critical moment, +arrived. This turned the fortune of the day, and their enemies were +defeated with great slaughter. The men of Bolabola, prosecuting their +victory, invaded Huaheine two days after, which they knew must be +weakly defended, as most of its warriors were absent. Accordingly, +they made themselves masters of that island. But many of its fugitives +having got to Otaheite, there told their lamentable story; which so +grieved those of their countrymen, and of Ulietea, whom, they met with +in that island, that they obtained some assistance from them. They +were equipped with only ten fighting canoes; but, though their force +was so inconsiderable, they conducted the expedition with so much +prudence, that they landed at Huaheine at night, when dark, and, +falling upon the Bolabola men by surprise, killed many of them, +forcing the rest to fly. So that, by this means, they got possession +of their island again, which now remains independent, under the +government of its own chiefs. Immediately after the defeat of the +united fleets of Ulietea and Huaheine, a proposal was made to the +Bolabola men by their allies of Otaha, to be admitted to an equal +share of the conquests. The refusal of this broke the alliance; and +in the course of the war, Otaha itself, as well as Ulietea, was +conquered; and both now remain subject to Bolabola; the chiefs who +govern them being only deputies of Opoony, the sovereign of that +island. In the reduction of the two islands, five battles were fought +at different places, in which great numbers were slain on both sides. + +Such was the account we received. I have more than once remarked, +how very imperfectly these people recollect the exact dates of past +events. And with regard to this war, though it happened not many +years ago, we could only guess at the time of its commencement and +its conclusion, from collateral circumstances, furnished by our own +observation, as the natives could not satisfy our enquiries with any +precision. The final conquest of Ulietea, which closed the war, we +know had been made before I was there in the Endeavour, in 1769; but +we may infer, that peace had not been very long restored, as we could +then see marks of recent hostilities having been committed upon that +island. Some additional light may be thrown upon this enquiry, by +attending to the age of Teereetareea, the present chief of Huaheine. +His looks shewed that he was not above ten or twelve years old; and we +were informed that his father had been killed in one of the battles. +As to the time when the war began, we had no better rule for judging +than this, that the young people of about twenty years of age, of whom +we made enquiries, could scarcely remember the first battles; and +I have already mentioned, that Omai's countrymen, whom we found +at Wateoo, knew nothing of this war; so that its commencement was +subsequent to their voyage. + +Ever since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolabola men have +been considered by their neighbours as invincible; and such is the +extent of their fame, that even at Otaheite, which is almost out of +their reach, if they are not dreaded, they are, at least, respected +for their valour. It is said that they never fly in battle, and that +they always beat an equal number of the other islanders. But, besides +these advantages, their neighbours seem to ascribe a great deal to the +superiority of their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea +by contrary winds, as being unwilling that we should visit an island +under his special protection. + +How high the Bolabola men are now in estimation at Otaheite, may be +inferred from Monsieur de Bougainville's anchor having been +conveyed to them. To the same cause we must ascribe the intention of +transporting to their island the Spanish bull. And they had already +got possession of a third European curiosity, the male of another +animal, brought to Otaheite by the Spaniards. We had been, much +puzzled, by the imperfect description of the natives, to guess what +this could be; but Captain Clerke's deserters, when brought back from +Bolabola, told me, that the animal had been there shewn to them, and +that it was a ram. It seldom happens but that some good arises out +of evil, and if our two men had not deserted, I should not have known +this. In consequence of their information, at the same time that I +landed to meet Opoony, I carried ashore a ewe, which we had brought +from the Cape of Good Hope; and I hope that by this present I have +laid the foundation for a breed of sheep at Bolabola. I also left +at Ulietea, under the care of Oreo, an English boar and sow, and two +goats. So that not only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, +will, in a few years, have their race of hogs considerably improved; +and, probably, be stocked with all the valuable animals which have +been transported hither by their European visitors. + +When once this comes to pass, no part of the world will equal these +islands in variety and abundance of refreshments for navigators. +Indeed, even in their present state, I know no place that excels them. +After repeated trials in the course of several voyages we find, when +they are not disturbed by intestine broils, but live in amity with +one another, which has been the case for some years past, that their +productions are in the greatest plenty; and, particularly, the most +valuable of all the articles, their hogs. + +If we had had a larger assortment of goods, and a sufficient quantity +of salt on board, I make no doubt that we might have salted as much +pork as would have served both ships near twelve months. But our +visiting the Friendly Islands, and our long stay at Otaheite and the +neigbourhood, quite exhausted our trading commodities, particularly +our axes, with which alone, hogs, in general, were to be purchased. +And we had hardly salt enough to cure fifteen puncheons of meat; of +these, five were added to our stock of provisions at the Friendly +Islands, and the other ten at Otaheite. Captain Clerke also salted a +proportionable quantity for his ship. + +The process was the same that had been adopted by me in my last +voyage; and it may be worth while to describe it again. The hogs were +killed in the evening; as soon as they were cleaned, they were cut up, +the bone taken out, and the meat salted when it was hot. It was then +laid in such a position as to permit the juices to drain from it, till +the next morning, when it was again salted, packed into a cask, and +covered with pickle. Here it remained for four or five days, or a +week; after which it was taken out and examined, piece by piece, +and if there was any found to be in the least tainted, as sometimes +happened, it was separated from the rest, which was repacked into +another cask, headed up, and filled with good pickle. In about eight +or ten days time it underwent a second examination; but this seemed +unnecessary, as the whole was generally found to be perfectly cured. A +mixture of bay and of white salt answers the best, but either of them +will do alone. Great care should be taken that none of the large blood +vessels remain in the meat; nor must too great a quantity be packed +together, at the first salting, lest the pieces in the middle should +heat, and, by that means, prevent the salt from penetrating them. +This once happened to us, when we killed a larger quantity than usual. +Rainy sultry weather is unfavourable for salting meat in tropical +climates. + +Perhaps the frequent visits Europeans have lately made to these +islanders, may be one great inducement to their keeping up a large +stock of hogs, as they have had experience enough to know, that, +whenever we come, they may be sure of getting from us what they esteem +a valuable consideration for them. At Otaheite they expect the return +of the Spaniards every day, and they will look for the English two or +three years hence, not only there, but at the other islands. It is to +no purpose to tell them that you will not return; they think you must, +though not one of them knows, or will give himself the trouble to +enquire, the reason of your coming. + +I own I cannot avoid expressing it as my real opinion, that it would +have been far better for these poor people, never to have known our +superiority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable, +than, after once knowing it, to be again left and abandoned to their +original incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they cannot be restored to +that happy mediocrity in which they lived before we discovered them, +if the intercourse between us should be discontinued. It seems to me +that it has become in a manner incumbent on the Europeans to visit +them once in three or four years, in order to supply them with those +conveniences which we have introduced among them, and have given them +a predilection for. The want of such occasional supplies will probably +be felt very heavily by them, when it may be too late to go back to +their old less perfect contrivances, which they now despise, and have +discontinued since the introduction of ours. For by the time that the +iron tools, of which they are now possessed, are worn out, they will +have almost lost the knowledge of their own. A stone-hatchet is, at +present, as rare a thing amongst them, as an iron one was eight years +ago; and a chisel of bone or stone is not to be seen. Spike-nails have +supplied the place of these last, and they are weak enough to fancy +that they have got an inexhaustible store of them; for these were not +now at all sought after. Sometimes, however, nails much smaller than a +spike would still be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened, +at present, to be in great esteem at Ulietea, and axes and hatchets +remained unrivalled by any other of our commodities at all the +islands. With respect to articles of mere ornament, these people are +as changeable as any of the polished nations of Europe; so that what +pleases their fancy, while a fashion is in vogue, may be rejected, +when another whim has supplanted it. But our iron tools are so +strikingly useful, that they will, we may confidently pronounce, +continue to prize them highly; and be completely miserable, if, +neither possessing the materials, nor trained up to the art of +fabricating them, they should cease to receive supplies of what may +now be considered as having become necessary to their comfortable +existence.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook's reasoning here is irresistibly convincing; +yet it is very remarkable that no practical benefit resulted from +it, in favour of the people whose cause he pleads. One can scarcely +account, far less apologize, for the extraordinary fact, that nearly +eleven years, from the date of this voyage, had elapsed, before any +British vessel touched at Otaheite, and that even then the visit was +an accidental one. Soon afterwards, however, Lieutenant Bligh was +ordered to visit it, for the purpose, not of conferring benefits +on it, but of procuring the bread-fruit tree, for our West India +possessions. Of the changes which had happened in that interval, +it would be improper to make any mention in this place. The reader +nevertheless may be informed, that much of the evil, which Captain +Cook had foreseen, really occurred. The want of iron tools especially +was most severely felt.--E.] + +Otaheite, though not comprehended in the number of what we have called +the Society Islands, being inhabited by the same race of men, +agreeing in the same leading features of character and manners, it was +fortunate, that we happened to discover this principal island before +the others; as the friendly and hospitable reception we there met +with, of course, led us to make it the principal place of resort, +in our successive visits to this part of the Pacific Ocean. By the +frequency of this intercourse, we have had better opportunities of +knowing something about it and its inhabitants, than about the other +similar but less considerable islands in its vicinity. Of these, +however, we have seen enough to satisfy us, that all that we observed +and have related of Otaheite, may, with trifling variations, be +applied to them. + +Too much seems to have been already known and published in our former +relations, about some of the modes of life that made Otaheite so +agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and, if I could now add +any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been +already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated +to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious +manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose information +I write. There are, however, many parts of the domestic, political, +and religious institutions of these people, which, after all our +visits to them, are but imperfectly understood. The foregoing +narrative of the incidents that happened during our stay, will +probably be thought to throw some additional light; and, for farther +satisfaction, I refer to Mr Anderson's remarks. + +Amidst our various subordinate employments, while at these islands, +the great objects of our duty were always attended to. No opportunity +was lost of making astronomical and nautical observations; from which +the following table was drawn up: + + Place. Latitude. Longitude. Variation of Dip of the + South. East. the Compass. Needle. + Matavai Point, + Otaheite, 17 deg. 24-1/4' 210 deg. 22' 28" 5 deg. 34' East 29 deg. 12' + + Owharre Harbour 16 deg. 42-3/4' 208 deg. 52' 24" 5 deg. 13-1/2" East 28 deg. 28' + Huaheine, + + Ohamaneno Harbour 16 deg. 45-1/2' 208 deg. 25' 22" 6 deg. 19' East 29 deg. 5' + Ulietea, + +[Transcriber's Note: It is possible that the compass variation at +Owharre Harbour should read 5 deg. 13-1/2' not 5 deg. 13-1/2" (minutes not +seconds)] + +The longitude of the three several places is deduced from the mean of +145 sets of observations made on shore; some at one place, and some at +another; and carried on to each of the stations by the time-keeper. As +the situation of these places was very accurately settled, during my +former voyages, the above observations were now made chiefly with a +view of determining how far a number of lunar observations might be +depended upon, and how near they would agree with those made upon the +same spot in 1769, which fixed Matavai Point to be in 210 deg. 27' 30". +The difference, it appears, is only of 5' 2"; and, perhaps, no +other method could have produced a more perfect agreement. Without +pretending to say which of the two computations is the nearest the +truth, the longitude of 210 deg. 22' 28", or, which is the same thing, +208 deg. 25' 22", will be the longitude we shall reckon from with the +time-keeper, allowing it to be losing, on mean time, 1,"69 each day, +as found by the mean of all the observations made at these islands for +that purpose. + +On our arrival at Otaheite, the error of the time-keeper in longitude +was, + + by {Greenwich rate, 1 deg. 18' 58" + {Tongataboo rate, 0 deg. 16' 40" + +Some observations were also made on the tide; particularly at Otaheite +and Ulietea, with a view of ascertaining its greatest rise at the +first place. When we were there, in my second voyage, Mr Wales thought +he had discovered that it rose higher than I had observed it to do, +when I first visited Otaheite, in 1769. But the observations we now +made proved that it did not; that is, that it never rose higher +than twelve or fourteen inches at most. And it was observed to be +high-water nearly at noon, as well at the quadratures, as at the full +and change of the moon. + +To verify this, the following observations were made at Ulietea: + + Day of Water at a stand Mean Time Perpendicular + the of rise + Month. from to High Water. Inches. + + November 6. 11h 15m to 12h 20m 11h 48m 5,5 + 7. 11 40 1 00 12 20 5,2 + 8. 11 35 12 50 12 12 5,0 + 9. 11 40 1 16 12 28 5,5 + 10. 11 25 1 10 12 18 6,5 + 11. 12 00 1 40 12 20 5,0 + 12. 11 00 1 05 12 02 5,7 + 13. 9 30 11 40 10 35 8,0 + 14. 11 10 12 50 12 00 8,0 + 15. 9 20 11 30 10 25 9,2 + 16. 10 00 12 00 11 00 9,0 + 17. 10 45 12 15 11 30 8,5 + 18. 10 25 12 10 11 18 9,0 + 19. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8,0 + 20. 11 30 2 00 12 45 7,0 + 21. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8,0 + 22. 11 30 1 07 12 18 8,0 + 23. 12 00 1 30 12 45 6,5 + 24. 11 30 1 40 12 35 5,5 + 25. 11 40 1 50 12 45 4,7 + 26. 11 00 1 30 12 15 5,2 + +Having now finished all that occurs to me, with regard to these +islands, which make so conspicuous a figure in the list of our +discoveries, the reader will permit me to suspend the prosecution of +my journal, while he peruses the following section, for which I am +indebted to Mr Anderson. + + +SECTION IX. + +_Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect.--The prevailing Winds.--Beauty +of the Country.--Cultivation.--Natural Curiosities.--The Persons +of the Natives.--Diseases.--General Character.--Love of +Pleasure.--Language.--Surgery and Physic.--Articles of Food.--Effects +of drinking Ava.--Times and Manner of Eating.--Connexions with the +Females.--Circumcision.--System of Religion.--Notions about the Soul +and a future Life.--Various Superstitions.--Traditions about +the Creation.--An historical Legend.--Honours paid to the +King.--Distinction of Ranks.--Punishment of Crimes.--Peculiarities of +the neighbouring Islands.--Names of their Gods.--Names of Islands they +visit.--Extent of their Navigation._ + +To what has been said of Otaheite, in the accounts of the successive +voyages of Captain Wallis, Mons. de Bougainville, and Captain Cook, it +would, at first sight, seem superfluous to add any thing, as it might +be supposed, that little could be now produced but a repetition of +what has been told before. I am, however, far from being of +that opinion; and will venture to affirm, though a very accurate +description of the country, and of the most obvious customs of its +inhabitants, has been already given, especially by Captain Cook, that +much still remains untouched; that, in some instances, mistakes have +been made, which later and repeated observation has been able to +rectify; and that, even now, we are strangers to many of the most +important institutions that prevail amongst these people. The truth +is, our visits, though frequent, have been but transient; many of us +had no inclination to make enquiries; more of us were unable to direct +our enquiries properly; and we all laboured, though not to the same +degree, under the disadvantages attending an imperfect knowledge +of the language of those, from whom alone we could receive any +information. The Spaniards had it more in their power to surmount +this bar to instruction; some of them having resided at Otaheite +much longer than any other European visitors. As, with their superior +advantages, they could not but have had an opportunity of obtaining +the fullest information on most subjects relating to this island, +their account of it would, probably, convey more authentic and +accurate intelligence, than, with our best endeavours, any of us could +possibly obtain. But, as I look upon it to be very uncertain, if not +very unlikely, that we shall ever have any communication from that +quarter, I have here put together what additional intelligence, about +Otaheite, and its neighbouring islands, I was able to procure, either +from, Omai, while on board the ship, or by conversing with the other +natives, while we remained among them. + +The wind, for the greatest part of the year, blows from between +E.S.E., and E.N.E. This is the true trade-wind, or what the natives +call _Maaraee_; and it sometimes blows with considerable force. When +this is the case, the weather is often cloudy, with showers of rain; +but, when the wind is more moderate, it is clear, settled, and serene. +If the wind should veer farther to the southward, and become S.E., or +S.S.E., it then blows more gently, with a smooth sea, and is called +_Maooui_. In those months, when the sun is nearly vertical, that is, +in December and January, the winds and weather are both very variable; +but it frequently blows from W.N.W., or N.W. This wind is what they +call _Toerou_; and is generally attended by dark, cloudy weather, +and frequently by rain, it sometimes blows strong, though generally +moderate; but seldom lasts longer than five or six days without +interruption; and is the only wind in which the people of the islands +to leeward come to this in their canoes. If it happens to be still +more northerly, it blows with less strength, and has the different +appellation of _Era-potaia_; which they feign to be the wife of the +_Toerou_; who, according to their mythology, is a male. + +The wind from S.W., and W.S.W., is still more frequent than the +former; and, though it is, in general, gentle, and interrupted by +calms, or breezes from the eastward, yet it sometimes blows in brisk +squalls. The weather attending it is commonly dark; cloudy, and +rainy, with a close, hot air; and often accompanied by a great deal +of lightning and thunder. It is called _Etoa_, and often succeeds the +_Toerou_; as does also the _Farooa_, which is still more southerly; +and, from its violence, blows down houses and trees, especially the +cocoa-palms, from their loftiness; but it is only of a short duration. + +The natives seem not to have a very accurate knowledge of these +changes, and yet pretend to have drawn some general conclusions from +their effects; for they say, when the sea has a hollow sound, and +dashes slowly on the shore, or rather on the reef without, that it +portends good weather, but, if it has a sharp sound, and the waves +succeed each other fast, that the reverse will happen. + +Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords a more +luxuriant prospect than the S.E. part of Otaheite. The hills are high +and steep; and, in many places, craggy. But they are covered to +the very summits with trees and shrubs, in such a manner, that the +spectator can scarcely help thinking, that the very rocks possess the +property of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat +land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the interjacent +valleys also, teem with various productions that grow with the most +exuberant vigour, and at once fill the mind of the beholder with the +idea, that no place upon earth can out-do this, in the strength and +beauty of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in distributing +rivulets, which are found in every valley; and as they approach the +sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilizing the flat +lands through which they run. The habitations of the natives are +scattered without order upon these flats; and many of them appearing +toward the shore, presented a delightful scene, viewed from our ships; +especially as the sea within the reef, which bounds the coast, is +perfectly still, and affords a safe navigation at all times for the +inhabitants, who are often seen paddling in their canoes indolently +along in passing from place to place, or in going to fish. On viewing +these charming scenes, I have often regretted my inability to +transmit to those who have had no opportunity of seeing them, such a +description as might, in some measure, convey an impression similar +to what must be felt by every one who has been fortunate enough to be +upon the spot. + +It is doubtless the natural fertility of the country, combined with +the mildness and serenity of the climate, that renders the natives +so careless in their cultivation, that, in many places, though, +overflowing with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it +cannot be observed. The cloth-plant, which is raised by seeds brought +from the mountains, and the _ava_, or intoxicating pepper, which they +defend from the sun when very young, by covering them with leaves of +the bread-fruit tree, are almost the only things to which they seem to +pay any attention, and these they keep very clean. + +I have enquired very carefully into their manner of cultivating the +bread-fruit tree, but was always answered that they never planted it. +This, indeed, must be evident to every one who will examine the places +where the young trees come up. It will be always observed that they +spring from the roots of the old ones, which ran along near the +surface of the ground; so that the bread-fruit trees may be reckoned +those that would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the +island was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked +trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there. And +from this we may observe, that the inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of +being obliged to plant his bread, will rather be under a necessity of +preventing its progress; which, I suppose, is sometimes done, to give +room for trees of another sort, to afford him some variety in his +food. + +The chief of these are the cocoa-nut and plantain; the first of which +can give no trouble, after it has raised itself a foot or two above +the ground; but the plantain requires a little more care; for, after +it is planted, it shoots up, and, in about three months, begins to +bear fruit; during which time it gives young shoots, which supply a +succession of fruit. For the old stocks are cut down as the fruit is +taken off. + +The products of the island, however, are not so remarkable for their +variety, as great abundance; and curiosities of any kind are not +numerous. Amongst these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water +at the top of one of the highest mountains, to go to and return from +which takes three or four days; it is remarkable for its depth, and +has eels of an enormous size in it, which are sometimes caught by the +natives, who go upon this water, in little floats of two or three wild +plantain trees fastened together. This is esteemed one of the greatest +natural curiosities of the country; insomuch, that travellers, who +come from the other islands, are commonly asked, amongst the first +things, by their friends, at their return, if they have seen it? There +is also a sort of water, of which there is only one small pond upon +the island, as far distant as the lake, and, to appearance, very good, +with a yellow sediment at the bottom; but it has a bad taste, and +proves fatal to those who drink any quantity, or makes them break out +in blotches if they bathe in it. + +Nothing could make a stronger impression, at first sight, on our +arrival here, than the remarkable contrast between the robust make and +dark colour of the people of Tongataboo, and a sort of delicacy and +whiteness which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even +some time before that difference could preponderate in favour of the +Otaheiteans; and then only, perhaps, because we became accustomed +to them, the marks which had recommended the others began to be +forgotten. Their women, however, struck us as superior in every +respect, and as possessing all those delicate characteristics which +distinguish them from, the other sex in many countries. The beard, +which the men here wear long, and the hair, which is not cut so short +as is the fashion at Tongataboo, made also a great difference; and we +could not help thinking that on every occasion they shewed a greater +degree of timidity and fickleness. The muscular appearance, so common +amongst the Friendly Islanders, and which seems a consequence of their +being accustomed to much action, is lost here, where the superior +fertility of their country enables the inhabitants to lead a more +indolent life; and its place is supplied by a plumpness and smoothness +of the skin, which, though perhaps more consonant with our ideas of +beauty, is no real advantage, as it seems attended with a kind of +languor in all their motions, not observable in the others. This +observation is fully verified in their boxing and wrestling, which +may be called little better than the feeble efforts of children, if +compared to the vigour with which these exercises are performed at the +Friendly Islands. + +Personal endowments being in great esteem amongst them, they have +recourse to several methods of improving them, according to their +notions of beauty. In particular, it is a practice, especially among +the _Erreoes_, or unmarried men of some consequence, to undergo a kind +of physical operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining +a month or two in the house; during which time they wear a great +quantity of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they +ascribe a remarkable property in whitening them. They also speak, as +if their corpulence and colour, at other times, depended upon +their food; as they are obliged, from the change of seasons, to use +different sorts at different times. + +Their common diet is made up of, at least, nine-tenths of vegetable +food, and, I believe, more particularly the _mahee_, or fermented +bread-fruit, which enters almost every meal, has a remarkable effect +upon them, preventing a costive habit, and producing a very sensible +coolness about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on +animal food. And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course of +life that they have so few diseases among them. + +They only reckon five or six, which might be called chronic, or +national disorders; amongst which are the dropsy and the _fefai_, or +indolent swellings before mentioned as frequent at Tongataboo. But +this was before the arrival of the Europeans; for we have added to +this short catalogue, a disease which abundantly supplies the place +of all the others; and is now almost universal. For this they seem to +have no effectual remedy. The priests, indeed, sometimes give them a +medley of simples; but they own that it never cures them. And yet +they allow that in a few cases, nature, without the assistance of +a physician, exterminates the poison of this fatal disease, and a +perfect recovery is produced. They say, that if a man is infected +with it, he will often communicate it to others in the same house, by +feeding out of the same utensils or handling them; and that, in this +case, they frequently die, while he recovers; though we see no reason +why this should happen. + +Their behaviour on all occasions seems to indicate a great openness +and generosity of disposition. Omai, indeed, who, as their countryman, +should be supposed rather willing to conceal any of their defects, has +often said that they are sometimes cruel in punishing their enemies. +According to his representation, they torment them very deliberately; +at one time tearing out small pieces of flesh from different parts; at +another taking out the eyes; then cutting off the nose; and, lastly, +killing them by opening the belly. But this only happens on particular +occasions. If cheerfulness argues a conscious innocence, one would +suppose that their life is seldom sullied by crimes. This, however, I +rather impute to their feelings, which, though lively, seem in no case +permanent; for I never saw them, in any misfortune, labour under the +appearance of anxiety after the critical moment was past. Neither +does care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the +approach of death does not appear to alter their usual vivacity. I +have seen them when brought to the brink of the grave by disease, +and when preparing to go to battle; but in neither case ever observed +their countenances overclouded with melancholy or serious reflection. + +Such a disposition leads them to direct all their aims only to what +can give them pleasure and ease. Their amusements all tend to excite +and continue their amorous passions; and their songs, of which they +are immoderately fond, answer the same purpose. But as a constant +succession of sensual enjoyments must cloy, we found, that they +frequently varied them to more refined subjects, and had much pleasure +in chaunting their triumphs in war, and their occupations in peace; +their travels to other islands, and adventures there; and the peculiar +beauties, and superior advantages of their own island over the rest, +or of different parts of it over other less favourite districts. This +marks, that they receive great delight from music; and though they +rather expressed a dislike to our complicated compositions, yet were +they always delighted with the more melodious sounds produced singly +on our instruments, as approaching nearer to the simplicity of their +own. + +Neither are they strangers to the soothing effects produced by +particular sorts of motion, which, in some cases, seem to allay any +perturbation of mind, with as much success as music. Of this, I met +with a remarkable instance. For on walking one day about Matavai +Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small +canoe, so quickly, and looking about with such eagerness, on each +side, as to command all my attention. At first, I imagined that he +had stolen something from one of the ships, and was pursued; but, on +waiting patiently, saw him repeat his amusement. He went out from the +shore, till he was near the place where the swell begins to take its +rise; and, watching its first motion very attentively, paddled before +it, with great quickness, till he found that it overtook him, and +had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before it, without +passing underneath. He then sat motionless, and was carried along, at +the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. +Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of another +swell. I could not help concluding, that this man felt the most +supreme pleasure, while he was driven on, so fast and so smoothly, by +the sea; especially as, though the tents and ships were so near, he +did not seem, in the least, to envy, or even to take any notice of, +the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them as objects which +were rare and curious. During my stay, two or three of the natives +came up, who seemed to share his felicity, and always called out, when +there was an appearance of a favourable swell, as he sometimes missed +it, by his back being turned, and looking about for it. By them +I understood, that this exercise, which is called _ehorooe_, was +frequent amongst them; and they have probably more amusements of this +sort, which afford them at least as much pleasure as skaiting, which +is the only one of ours, with whose effects I could compare it. + +The language of Otaheite, though doubtless radically the same with +that of New Zealand and the Friendly Islands, is destitute of that +guttural pronunciation, and of some consonants, with which those +latter dialects abound. The specimens we have already given are +sufficient to mark wherein the variation chiefly consists, and to +shew, that, like the manners of the inhabitants, it has become soft +and soothing. During the former voyage, I had collected a copious +vocabulary, which enabled me the better to compare this dialect with +that of the other islands; and, during this voyage, I took every +opportunity of improving my acquaintance with it, by conversing with +Omai, before we arrived, and by my daily intercourse with the +natives, while we now remained there.[1] It abounds with beautiful and +figurative expressions, which, were it perfectly known, would, I have +no doubt, put it upon a level with many of the languages that are +most in esteem for their warm and bold images. For instance, the +Otaheiteans express their notions of death very emphatically, by +saying, "That the soul goes into darkness; or rather into night." And, +if you seem to entertain any doubt, in asking the question, "if such a +person is their mother?" they immediately reply, with surprise, "Yes, +the mother that bore me." They have one expression, that corresponds +exactly with the phraseology of the scriptures, where we read of +the "yearning of the bowels." They use it on all occasions, when the +passions give them uneasiness; as they constantly refer pain from +grief, anxious desire, and other affections, to the bowels, as its +seat; where they likewise suppose all operations of the mind are +performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of +words, which so much distinguishes the Latin and Greek from most +of our modern European tongues, whose imperfections require a more +orderly construction, to prevent ambiguities. It is so copious, that +for the bread-fruit alone, in its different states, they have above +twenty names; as many for the _taro_ root; and about ten for the +cocoa-nut. Add to this, that, besides the common dialect, they often +expostulate, in a kind of stanza or recitative, which is answered in +the same manner. + +[Footnote 1: See this Vocabulary at the end of Captain Cook's second +voyage. Many corrections and additions to it were now made by this +indefatigable enquirer; but the specimens of the language of Otaheite, +already in the hands of the public, seem sufficient for every useful +purpose.--D.] + +Their arts are few and simple; yet, if we may credit them, they +perform cures in surgery, which our extensive knowledge in that branch +has not, as yet, enabled us to imitate. In simple fractures, they +bind them up with splints; but if part of the substance of the bone +be lost, they insert a piece of wood, between the fractured ends, made +hollow like the deficient part. In five or six days, the _rapaoo_, or +surgeon, inspects the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with +growing flesh. In as many more days, it is generally entirely covered; +after which, when the patient has acquired some strength, he bathes +in the water, and recovers. We know that wounds will heal over leaden +bullets; and, sometimes, though rarely, over other extraneous +bodies. But what makes me entertain some doubt of the truth of so +extraordinary skill, as in the above instance, is, that in other +cases which fell under my own observation, they are far from being so +dexterous. I have seen the stump of an arm, which was taken off, after +being shattered by a fall from a tree, that bore no marks of +skilful operation, though some allowance be made for their defective +instruments. And I met with a man going about with a dislocated +shoulder, some months after the accident, from their being ignorant +of a method to reduce it; though this be considered as one of the +simplest operations of our surgery. They know that fractures or +luxations of the spine are mortal, but not fractures of the skull; and +they likewise know, from experience, in what parts of the body wounds +prove fatal. They have sometimes pointed out those inflicted by +spears, which, if made in the direction they mentioned, would +certainly have been pronounced deadly by us, and yet these people have +recovered. + +Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and that, probably +because their diseases are fewer than their accidents. The priests, +however, administer the juices of herbs in some cases; and women who +are troubled with after-pains, or other disorders after child-bearing, +use a remedy which one would think needless in a hot country. They +first heat stones, as when they bake their food; then they lay a thick +cloth over them, upon which is put a quantity of a small plant of the +mustard kind; and these are covered with another cloth. Upon this they +seat themselves and sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. The men +have practised the same method for the venereal _lues_, but find it +ineffectual. They have no emetic medicines. + +Notwithstanding the extreme fertility of the island, a famine +frequently happens, in which it is said many perish. Whether this be +owing to the failure of some seasons, to over-population, which must +sometimes almost necessarily happen, or to wars, I have not been able +to determine; though the truth of the fact may fairly be inferred, +from the great economy that they observe with respect to their +food, even when there is plenty. In times of scarcity, after their +bread-fruit and yams are consumed, they have recourse to various +roots, which grow without cultivation upon the mountains. The +_patarra_, which is found in vast quantities, is what they use first. +It is not unlike a very large potatoe or yam, and good when in its +growing state; but when old, is full of hard stringy fibres. They then +eat two other roots, one not unlike _taro_; and lastly, the _eohee_. +This is of two sorts; one of them possessing deleterious qualities, +which obliges them to slice and macerate it in water a night before +they bake and eat it. In this respect, it resembles the _cassava_ root +of the West Indies; but it forms a very insipid moist paste, in the +manner they dress it. However, I have seen them eat it at times when +no such scarcity reigned. Both this and the _patarra_ are creeping +plants: the last with ternate leaves. + +Of animal food a very small portion falls at any time to the share of +the lower class of people, and then it is either fish, sea-eggs, or +other marine productions; for they seldom or ever eat pork. The _Eree +de hoi_[2] alone is able to furnish pork every day; and inferior +chiefs, according to their riches, once a week, fortnight, or month. +Sometimes they are not even allowed that; for, when the island is +impoverished by war or other causes, the chief prohibits his subjects +to kill any hogs; and this prohibition, we were told, is in force +sometimes for several months, or even for a year or two. During that +restraint the hogs multiply so fast, that there are instances of their +changing their domestic state, and turning wild. When it is thought +proper to take off the prohibition, all the chiefs assemble at the +king's place of abode, and each brings with him a present of hogs. The +king then orders some of them to be killed, on which they feast; +and, after that, every one returns home with liberty to kill what he +pleases for his own use. Such a prohibition was actually in force on +our last arrival here; at least in all those districts of the island +that are immediately under the direction of Otoo. And, lest it should +have prevented our going to Matavai after leaving Oheitepeha, he sent +a message to assure us, that it should be taken off as soon as the +ships arrived there. With respect to us we found it so; but we made +such a consumption of them, that, I have no doubt, it would be laid +on again as soon as we sailed. A similar prohibition is also sometimes +extended to fowls. + +[Footnote 2: Mr Anderson, invariably in his manuscript, writes _Eree +de hoi_. According to Captain Cook's mode, it is _Eree rahie_. This is +one of the numerous instances that perpetually occur, of our people's +representing the same word differently.--D.] + +It is also amongst the better sort that the _ava_ is chiefly used. But +this beverage is prepared somewhat differently, from that which we +saw so much of at the Friendly Islands. For they pour a very small +quantity of water upon the root here, and sometimes roast or bake and +bruise the stalks, without chewing it previously to its infusion. They +also use the leaves of the plant here, which are bruised, and water +poured upon them, as upon the root. Large companies do not assemble +to drink it in that sociable way which is practised at Tongataboo. +But its pernicious effects are more obvious here; perhaps owing to the +manner of preparing it, as we often saw instances of its intoxicating, +or rather stupifying powers. Some of us, who had been at these islands +before, were surprised to find many people, who, when we saw them +last, were remarkable for their size and corpulency, now almost +reduced to skeletons; and, upon enquiring into the cause of this +alteration, it was universally allowed to be the use of the _ava_. The +skins of these people were rough, dry, and covered with scales, which, +they say, every now and then fall off, and their skin is, as it were, +renewed. As an excuse for a practice so destructive, they allege, +that it is adopted to prevent their growing too fat; but it evidently +enervates them, and, in all probability, shortens their days. As its +effects had not been so visible during our former visits, it is not +unlikely that this article of luxury had never been so much abused as +at this time. If it continues to be so fashionable, it bids fair to +destroy great numbers. + +The times of eating at Otaheite are very frequent. Their first meal, +or (as it may rather be called) their last, as they go to sleep after +it, is about two o'clock in the morning; and the next is at eight. +At eleven, they dine; and again, as Omai expressed it, at two, and at +five; and sup at eight. In this article of domestic life, they have +adopted some customs which are exceedingly whimsical. The women, for +instance, have not only the mortification of being obliged to eat by +themselves, and in a different part of the house from the men, but, +by a strange kind of policy, are excluded from a share of most of +the better sorts of food. They dare not taste turtle, nor fish of the +tunny kind, which is much esteemed; nor some particular sorts of the +best plantains; and it is very seldom that even those of the first +rank are suffered to eat pork. The children of each sex also eat +apart; and the women generally serve up their own victuals; for they +would certainly starve before any grown man would do them such an +office. In this, as well as in some other customs relative to their +eating, there is a mysterious conduct which we could never thoroughly +comprehend. When we enquired into the reasons of it, we could get no +other answer, but that it is right and necessary that it should be so. + +In other customs respecting the females, there seems to be no such +obscurity; especially as to their connexions with the men. If a young +man and woman, from mutual choice, cohabit, the man gives the father +of the girl such things as are necessary in common life; as hogs, +cloth, or canoes, in proportion to the time they are together; and, if +he thinks that he has not been sufficiently paid for his daughter, he +makes no scruple of forcing her to leave her friend, and to cohabit +with another person who may be more liberal. The man, on his part, is +always at liberty to make a new choice; but, should his consort become +pregnant, he may kill the child; and, after that, either continue his +connexion with the mother, or leave her. But if he should adopt the +child, and suffer it to live, the parties are then considered as +in the married state, and they commonly live together ever after. +However, it is thought no crime in the man to join a more youthful +partner to his first wife, and to live with both. The custom of +changing their connexions is, however, much more general than this +last; and it is a thing so common, that they speak of it with great +indifference. The _Erreoes_ are only those of the better sort, who, +from their fickleness, and their possessing the means of purchasing +a succession of fresh connexions, are constantly roaming about; and, +from having no particular attachment, seldom adopt the more settled +method mentioned above. And so agreeable is this licentious plan of +life to their disposition, that the most beautiful of both sexes thus +commonly spend their youthful days, habituated to the practice of +enormities which would disgrace the most savage tribes; but are +peculiarly shocking amongst a people whose general character, in other +respects, has evident traces of the prevalence of humane and tender +feelings.[3] When an _Erreoe_ woman is delivered of a child, a piece +of cloth, dipped in water, is applied to the mouth and nose, which +suffocates it. + +[Footnote 3: That the Caroline Islands are inhabited by the same tribe +or nation, whom Captain Cook found, it such immense distances, +spread throughout the South Pacific Ocean, has been satisfactorily +established in some preceding notes The situation of the Ladrones, or +Marianne Islands, still farther north than the Carolines, but at +no great distance from them, is favourable, at first sight, to the +conjecture, that the same race also peopled that cluster; and, on +looking into Father Le Gobien's history of them, this conjecture +appears to be actually confirmed by direct evidence. One of the +greatest singularities of the Otaheite manners, is the existence of +the society of young men called _Erreoes_, of whom some account is +given in the preceding paragraph. Now we learn from Father Le Gobien, +that such a society exists also amongst the inhabitants of the +Ladrones. His words are: _Les Urritoes sont parmi eux les jeuns gens +qui vivent avec des maitresses, sans vouloir s'engager dans les liens +du mariage_. That there should be young men in the Ladrones, as well +as in Otaheite, _who live with mistresses, without being inclined to +enter into the married state_, would not, indeed, furnish the shadow +of any peculiar resemblance between them. But that the young men in +the Ladrones, and in Otaheite, whose manners are thus licentious, +should be considered as a distinct confraternity, called by a +particular name; and that this name should be the same in both places: +this singular coincidence of custom, confirmed by that of language, +seems to furnish an irrefragable proof of the inhabitants of both +places being the same nation. We know, that it is the general property +of the Otaheite dialect, to soften the pronunciation of its words. +And, it is observable, that, by the omission of one single letter (the +consonant t), our _Arreoys_ (as spelled in Hawkesworth's collection), +or _Erreoes_ (according to Mr Anderson's orthography), and the +_Urritoes_ of the Ladrones, are brought to such a similitude of sound +(the only rule of comparing two unwritten languages), that we may +pronounce them to be the same word, without exposing ourselves to the +sneers of supercilious criticism. + +One or two more such proofs, drawn from similarity of language, in +very significant words, may be assigned. Le Gobien tells us, that the +people of the Ladrones worship their dead, whom they call _Anitis_. +Here, again, by dropping the consonant _n_, we have a word that bears +a strong resemblance to that which so often occurs in Captain Cook's +voyages, when speaking of the divinities of his islands, whom he calls +_Eatooas_. And it may be matter of curiosity to remark, that what +is called an _Aniti_, at the Ladrones, is, as we learn from Cantova +(_Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses_, tom. xv. p. 309, 310.) at the +Caroline Islands, where dead chiefs are also worshipped, called a +_Tahutup_; and that, by softening or sinking the strong sounding +letters, at the beginning and at the end of this latter word, the +_Ahutu_ of the Carolines, the _Aiti_ of the Ladrones, and the +_Eatooa_ of the South Pacific Islands, assume such a similarity in +pronunciation (for we can have no other guide), as strongly marks one +common original. Once more; we learn from Le Gobien, that the Marianne +people call their chiefs _Chamorris_, or _Chamoris_. And by softening +the aspirate _Ch_ into _T_, and the harshness of _r_ into _l_ (of +which the vocabularies of the different islands give us repeated +instances), we have the _Tamole_ of the Caroline Islands, and the +_Tamolao_, or _Tamaha_, of the Friendly ones. + +If these specimens of affinity of language should be thought too +scanty, some very remarkable instances of similarity of customs and +institutions will go far to remove every doubt. 1. A division into +three classes, of nobles, of middle rank, and the common people, or +servants, was found, by Captain Cook, to prevail, both at the Friendly +and the Society Islands. Father Le Gobien expressly tells us, that the +same distinction prevails at the Ladrones: _Il y a trois etats, parmi +les insulaires, la noblesse, le moyen, et le menu._ 2. Numberless +instances occur in Captain Cook's voyage to prove the great subjection +under which the people of his islands are to their chiefs. We learn +from Le Gobien, that it is so also at the Ladrones: _La noblesse est +d'un fierte incroyable, et tien le peuple dans un abaisement qu'on ne +pourroit imaginer en Europe_, &c. 3. The diversions of the natives +at Wateeo, the Friendly, and the Society Islands, have been copiously +described by Captain Cook. How similar are those which Le Gobien +mentions in the following words, as prevailing at the Ladrones!--_Ils +se divertissent a danser, courir, sautir, lutter, pour s'exercer, +et eprouver leur forces. Ils prennent grand plaisir a raconter les +avantures de leurs ancetres, et a reciter des vers de leurs poetes._ +4. The principal share sustained by the women, in the entertainments +at Captain Cook's islands, appears sufficiently from a variety of +instances in this work; and we cannot read what Le Gobien says of +the practice at the Ladrones, without tracing the strongest +resemblance--_Dans leurs assemblees elles se mettent doux ou trieze +femmes en rond, debout, sans se remuer. Dans cette attitude elles +chantent les vers fabuleux de leurs poetes avec un agrement, et une +justesse qui plairoit en Europe. L'accord de leur voix est admirable, +et ne cede en rien a la musique concertee. Elles ont dans les mains +de petits coquilles, dont elles se servent avec beaucoup de precision. +Elles soutiennent leur voix, et animent leur chants avec une action +si vive, et des gestes si expressives, qu'elles charment ceux qui +les voient, et qui les entendent._ 5. We read in Captain Cook's first +voyage, that at Otaheite garlands of the fruit of the palm-tree and +cocoa-leaves, with other things particularly consecrated to funeral +solemnities, are deposited about the places where they lay their dead; +and that provisions and water are also left at a little distance. How +conformable to this is the practice at the Ladrones, as described +by Le Gobien!--_Ils font quelques repas autour du tombeau; car on +en eleve toujours un sur le lieu ou le corps est enterre, ou dans +le voisinage; on le charge de fleurs, de branches de palmiers, de +coquillages, et de tout ce qu'ils ont de plus precieux._ 6. It is the +custom at Otaheite not to bury the skulls of the chiefs with the rest +of the bones, but to put them into boxes made for that purpose. Here +again, we find the same strange custom prevailing at the Ladrones; +for Le Gobien expressly tells us, _qui'ls gardent les cranes, en leur +maisons_, that they put these skulls into little baskets (_petites +corbeilles_); and that these dead chiefs are the _Anitis_, to whom +their priests address their invocations. 7. The people at Otaheite, as +we learn from Captain Cook, in his account of Tee's embalmed corpse, +make use of cocoa-nut oil, and other ingredients, in rubbing the +dead bodies. The people of the Ladrones, Father Le Gobien tells +us, sometimes do the same--_D'autres frottent les morts d'huile +odoriferante._ 8. The inhabitants of Otaheite believe the immortality +of the soul; and that there are two situations after death, somewhat +analogous to our heaven and hell; but they do not suppose, that their +actions here in the least influence their future state. And in the +account given in this Voyage of the religious opinions entertained at +the Friendly Islands, we find there exactly the same doctrine. It +is very observable, how conformable to this is the belief of the +inhabitants of the Ladrones--_Ils sont persuades_ (says Le Gobien) _de +l'immortalite de l'ame. Ils reconnoissent meme un Paradis et un Enfer, +dont ils se forment des idees assez bizarres. Ce n'est point, selon +eux, la vertu ni le crime, qui conduit dans ces lieux la; les bonnes +ou les mauvaises actions n'y servent de rien._ 9. One more very +singular instance of agreement shall close this long list. In Captain +Cook's account of the New Zealanders, we find that, according to them, +the soul of the man who is killed, and whose flesh is devoured, is +doomed to a perpetual fire; while the souls of all who die a natural +death, ascend to the habitations of the gods. And, from Le Gobien, we +learn that this very notion is adopted by his islanders--_Si on a le +malkeur de mourir de mort violente, on a l'enfer pour leur portage._ + +Surely such a concurrence of very characteristic conformities cannot +be the result of mere accident; and, when combined with the specimens +of affinity of language mentioned at the beginning of this note, +it should seem that we are fully warranted, from premises thus +unexceptionable, to draw a certain conclusion, that the inhabitants of +the various islands discovered or visited by Captain Cook in the South +Pacific Ocean, and those whom the Spaniards found settled upon the +Ladrones or Mariannes, in the northern hemisphere, carried the same +language, customs, and opinions from one common centre, from which +they had emigrated; and that, therefore, they may be considered as +scattered members of the same nation. + +See Pere Le Gobien's _Histoire des Iles Mariannes_, Book ii. or the +summary of it in _Histoire des Navigations aux Terres Australes_, +T. ii. p. 492-512, from which the materials for this note have been +extracted.--D.] + +As in such a life, their women must contribute a very large share +of its happiness, it is rather surprising, besides the humiliating +restraints they are laid under with regard to food, to find them often +treated with a degree of harshness, or rather brutality, which one +would scarcely suppose a man would bestow on an object for whom he had +the least affection. Nothing, however, is more common, than to see the +men beat them without mercy; and, unless this treatment is the effect +of jealousy, which both sexes, at least, pretend to be sometimes +infected with, it will be difficult to account for it. It will be +less difficult to admit this as the motive, as I have seen several +instances where the women have preferred personal beauty to interest; +though, I must own, that even in these cases, they seem scarcely +susceptible of those delicate sentiments that are the result of +mutual affection; and, I believe, that there is less Platonic love in +Otaheite than in any other country. + +Cutting, or inciding the foreskin, should be mentioned here as a +practice adopted amongst them from a notion of cleanliness; and they +have a reproachful epithet in their language for those who do not +observe that custom. When there are five or six lads pretty well grown +up in a neighbourhood, the father of one of them goes to a _Tahoua_, +or man of knowledge, and lets him know. He goes with the lads to +the top of the hills, attended by a servant, and seating one of them +properly, introduces a piece of wood underneath the foreskin, and +desires him to look aside at something he pretends is coming; having +thus engaged the young man's attention to another object, he cuts +through the skin upon the wood with a shark's tooth, generally at one +stroke. He then separates, or rather turns back the divided parts; and +having put on a bandage, proceeds to perform the same operation on the +other lads. At the end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being +taken off, the matter is cleaned away. At the end of five days more +they bathe again, and are well; but a thickness of the prepuce, +where it was cut, remaining, they go again to the mountains with +the _Tahoua_ and servant; and a fire being prepared, and some stones +heated, the _Tahoua_ puts the prepuce between two of them, and +squeezes it gently, which removes the thickness. They then return +home, having their heads, and other parts of their bodies, adorned +with odoriferous flowers; and the _Tahoua_ is rewarded for his +services by their fathers, in proportion to their several abilities, +with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be poor, their relations +are liberal on the occasion. + +Their religious system is extensive, and, in many instances, singular; +but few of the common people have a perfect knowledge of it; that +being confined chiefly to their priests, who are pretty numerous. They +do not seem to pay respect to one god, as possessing pre-eminence; but +believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very powerful; and +in this case, as different parts of the island, and the other islands +in the neighbourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each, no +doubt, think that they have chosen the most eminent, or, at least, one +who is invested with power sufficient to protect them, and to supply +all their wants. If he should not answer their expectations, they +think it no impiety to change; as has very lately happened in +Tiarabooa, where, in the room of the two divinities formerly honoured +there, Oraa,[4] god of Bolabola, had been adopted, I should suppose, +because he is the protector of a people who have been victorious in +war; and as, since they have made this change, they have been very +successful themselves against the inhabitants of _Otaheite-nooe_, they +impute it entirely to _Oraa_, who, as they literally say, fights their +battles. + +[Footnote 4: We have another instance of the same word being +differently pronounced by our people. Captain Cook, as appears above, +speaks of _Olla_ as the Bolabola god.--D.] + +Their assiduity in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not +only the _whattas_, or offering-places of the _morais_, are commonly +loaded with fruits and animals, but there are few houses where you do +not meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them +are so rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal without +first laying aside a morsel for the _Eatooa_; and we had an +opportunity, during this voyage, of seeing their superstitious +zeal carried to a most pernicious height, in the instance of human +sacrifices; the occasions of offering which, I doubt, are too +frequent. Perhaps they have recourse to them when misfortunes occur; +for they asked, if one of our men, who happened to be confined, when +we were detained by a contrary wind, was _taboo_? Their prayers are +also very frequent, which they chaunt, much after the manner of their +songs in their festive entertainments. And the women, as in other +cases, are also obliged to shew their inferiority in religious +observances; for it is required of them, that they should partly +uncover themselves as they pass the _morais_, or take a considerable +circuit to avoid them. Though they have no notion that their god must +always be conferring benefits, without sometimes forgetting them, or +suffering evil to befall them, they seem to regard this less than the +attempts of some more inauspicious being to hurt them. They tell us, +that _Etee_ is an evil spirit, who sometimes does them mischief; +and to whom, as well as to their god, they make offerings. But the +mischiefs they apprehend from any superior invisible beings, are +confined to things merely temporal. + +They believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. They say +that it keeps fluttering about the lips during the pangs of death; and +that then it ascends and mixes with, or, as they express it, is eaten +by the deity. In this state it remains for some time; after which it +departs to a certain place, destined for the reception of the souls +of men where it exists in eternal night; or, as they sometimes say, in +twilight or dawn. They have no idea of any permanent punishment after +death, for crimes that they have committed on earth; for the souls +of good and of bad men are eat indiscriminately by God. But they +certainly consider this coalition with the deity as a kind of +purification necessary to be undergone before they enter a state of +bliss. For, according to their doctrine, if a man refrain from all +connexion with women some months before death, he passes immediately +into his eternal mansion, without such a previous union; as if +already, by this abstinence, he were pure enough to be exempted from +the general lot. + +They are, however, far from entertaining those sublime conceptions +of happiness, which our religion, and indeed reason, gives us room +to expect hereafter. The only great privilege they seem to think +they shall acquire by death is immortality; for they speak of spirits +being, in some measure, not totally divested of those passions which +actuated them when combined with material vehicles. Thus, if souls, +who were formerly enemies, should meet, they have many conflicts; +though, it should seem, to no purpose, as they are accounted +invulnerable in this invisible state. There is a similar reasoning +with regard to the meeting of man and wife. If the husband dies first, +the soul of the wife is known to him on its arrival in the land of +spirits. They resume their former acquaintance, in a spacious house, +called _tourooa_, where the souls of the deceased assemble to recreate +themselves with the gods. She then retires with him, to his separate +habitation, where they remain for ever, and have an offspring; which, +however, is entirely spiritual, as they are neither married, nor are +their embraces supposed to be the same as with corporeal beings. + +Some of their notions about the deity are extravagantly absurd: They +believe that he is subject to the power of those very spirits to whom +he has given existence; and that, in their turn, they frequently eat +or devour him, though he possess the power of re-creating himself. +They doubtless use this mode of expression, as they seem incapable of +conversing about immaterial things, without constantly referring to +material objects to convey their meaning. And in this manner they +continue the account, by saying, that, in the _tourooa_, the deity +enquires if they intend, or not, to destroy him? And that he is not +able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants on +earth, as well as to the spirits; for when the moon is in its wane, +it is said that they are then devouring their _Eatooa_; and that as it +increases he is renewing himself. And to this accident, not only the +inferior, but the most eminent gods are liable. They also believe, +that there are other places for the reception of souls at death. Thus, +those who are drowned in the sea remain there; where they think that +there is a fine country, houses, and every thing that can make them +happy. But, what is more singular, they maintain, that not only all +other animals, but trees, fruit, and even stones, have souls, which at +death, or upon being consumed or broken, ascend to the divinity, with +whom they first mix, and afterwards pass into the mansion allotted to +each. + +They imagine that their punctual performance of religious offices +procures for them every temporal blessing. And as they believe that +the animating and powerful influence of the divine spirit is +every where diffused, it is no wonder that they join to this many +superstitious opinions about its operations. Accordingly, they believe +that sudden deaths, and all other accidents, are effected by the +immediate action of some divinity. If a man only stumble against a +stone and hurt his toe, they impute it to an _Eatooa_; so that they +may be literally said, agreeably to their system, to tread enchanted +ground. They are startled in the night on approaching a _toopapaoo_, +where the dead are exposed, in the same manner that many of our +ignorant and superstitious people are with the apprehensions of +ghosts, and at the sight of a church-yard; and they have an equal +confidence in dreams, which they suppose to be communications either +from their god, or from the spirits of their departed friends, +enabling those favoured with them to foretell future events; but this +kind of knowledge is confined to particular people. Omai pretended to +have his gift. He told us, that the soul of his father had intimated +to him in a dream, on the 26th of July 1776, that he should go on +shore at some place within three days; but he was unfortunate in this +first attempt to persuade us that he was a prophet; for it was the +1st of August before we got into Teneriffe. Amongst them, however, +the dreamers possess a reputation little inferior to that of their +inspired priests and priestesses, whose predictions they implicitly +believe, and are determined by them in all undertakings of +consequence. The priestess who persuaded Opoony to invade Ulietea, +is much respected by him; and he never goes to war without consulting +her. They also, in some degree, maintain our old doctrine of planetary +influence; at least, they are sometimes regulated in their public +counsels by certain appearances of the moon; particularly when lying +horizontally, or much inclined on the convex part, on its first +appearance after the change, they are encouraged to engage in war with +confidence of success. + +They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as might be +expected, are complex and clouded with obscurity. They say, that a +goddess, having a lump or mass of earth suspended in a cord, gave it a +swing, and scattered about pieces of land, thus constituting Otaheite +and the neighbouring islands, which were all peopled by a man and +woman, originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, only respects +their own immediate creation; for they have notions of an universal +one before this; and of lands, of which they have now no other +knowledge than what is mentioned in the tradition. Their most remote +account reaches to Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones or +rocks, who support the congeries of land and water, or our globe +underneath. These produced Totorro, who was killed, and divided into +land; and after him Otaia and Oroo were begotten, who were afterward +married, and produced, first, land, and then a race of gods. Otaia is +killed, and Oroo marries a god, her son, called Teorrhaha, whom she +orders to create more land, the animals, and all sorts of food found +upon the earth; as also the sky, which is supported by men called +Teeferei. The spots observed in the moon, are supposed to be groves +of a sort of trees which once grew in Otaheite, and being destroyed +by some accident, their seeds were carried up thither by doves, where +they now flourish. + +They have also many legends, both religious and historical; one of +which latter, relative to the practice of eating human flesh, I shall +give the substance of, as a specimen of their method. A long time +since there lived in Otaheite two men, called _Taheeai_, the only name +they yet have for cannibals; none knew from whence they came, or in +what manner they arrived at the island. Their habitation was in +the mountains, from whence they used to issue, and kill many of the +natives, whom they afterward devoured, and by that means prevented the +progress of population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country +of such a formidable enemy, used a stratagem for their destruction, +with success. These still lived farther upward than the _Taheeai_, and +in such a situation that they could speak with them without greatly +hazarding their own safety; they invited them to accept of an +entertainment that should be provided for them, to which these readily +consented. The brothers then taking some stones, heated them in a +fire, and thrusting them into pieces of _mahee_, desired one of the +_Taheeai_ to open his mouth; on which one of these pieces was dropped +in, and some water poured down, which made a boiling or hissing noise, +in quenching the stone, and killed him. They entreated the other to +do the same; but he declined it, representing the consequences of +his companion's eating. However, they assured him that the food was +excellent, and its effects only temporary; for that the other would +soon recover. His credulity was such that be swallowed the bait, and +shared the fate of the first. The natives then cut them in pieces, +which they buried; and conferred the government of the island on the +brothers, as a reward for delivering them from such monsters. Their +residence was in the district called Whapaeenoo; and to this day there +remains a bread-fruit tree, once the property of the _Taheeais_. +They had also a woman, who lived with them, and had two teeth of +a prodigious size. After they were killed, she lived at the island +Otaha; and when dead, was ranked amongst their deities. She did not +eat human flesh, as the men; but, from the size of her teeth, the +natives still call any animal that has a fierce appearance, or is +represented with large tusks, _Taheeai_. + +Every one must allow that this story is just as natural as that of +Hercules destroying the hydra, or the more modern one of Jack the +giant-killer. But I do not find that there is any moral couched under +it, any more than under most old fables of the same kind, which +have been received as truths only during the prevalence of the same +ignorance that marked the character of the ages in which they were +invented. It, however, has not been improperly introduced, as serving +to express the horror and detestation entertained here against those +who feed upon human flesh. And yet, from some circumstances, I have +been led to think that the natives of these isles were formerly +cannibals. Upon asking Omai, he denied it stoutly; yet mentioned a +fact, within his own knowledge, which almost confirms such an opinion. +When the people of Bolabola, one time, defeated those of Huaheine, a +great number of his kinsmen were slain. But one of his relations had, +afterward, an opportunity of revenging himself, when the Bolabola men +were worsted in their turn, and cutting a piece out of the thigh of +one of his enemies, he broiled, and eat it. I have also frequently +considered the offering of the person's eye, who is sacrificed, to the +chief, as a vestige of a custom which once really existed to a greater +extent, and is still commemorated by this emblematical ceremony. + +The being invested with the _maro_, and the presiding at human +sacrifices, seem to be the peculiar characteristics of the sovereign. +To these, perhaps, may be added the blowing a conch-shell, which +produces a very loud sound. On hearing it, all his subjects are +obliged to bring food of every sort to his royal residence, in +proportion to their abilities. On some other occasions, they carry +their veneration for his very name to an extravagant and very +destructive pitch. For if, on his accession to the _maro_, any words +in their language be found to have a resemblance to it in sound, they +are changed for others; and if any man be bold enough not to comply, +and continue to use those words, not only he, but all his relations, +are immediately put to death. The same severity is exercised toward +those who shall presume to apply this sacred name to any animal. And, +agreeably to this custom of his countrymen, Omai used to express +his indignation, that the English should give the names of prince or +princess to their favourite horses or dogs. But while death is the +punishment for making free with the name of their sovereign, if abuse +be only levelled at his government, the offender escapes with the +forfeiture of lands and houses. + +The king never enters the house of any of his subjects, but has, in +every district where he visits, houses belonging to himself. And if, +at any time, he should be obliged by accident to deviate from this +rule, the house thus honoured with his presence, and every part of +its furniture, is burnt. His subjects not only uncover to him, when +present, down to the waist; but if he be at any particular place, a +pole, having a piece of cloth tied to it, is set up somewhere near, to +which they pay the same honours. His brothers are also entitled to the +first part of the ceremony; but the women only uncover to the females +of the royal family. In short, they seem even superstitious in their +respect to him, and esteem his person little less than sacred. And it +is, perhaps, to these circumstances, that he owes the quiet possession +of his dominions. For even the people of Tiaraboo allow him the same +honours as his right; though, at the same time, they look upon their +own chief as more powerful; and say, that he would succeed to the +government of the whole island, should the present reigning family +become extinct. This is the more likely, as Waheiadooa not only +possesses Tiaraboo, but many districts of Opooreanoo. His territories, +therefore, are almost equal in extent to those of Otoo; and he has, +besides, the advantage of a more populous and fertile part of the +island. His subjects, also, have given proofs of their superiority, +by frequent victories over those of Otaheite-nooe, whom they affect +to speak of as contemptible warriors, easily to be worsted, if at any +time their chief should wish to put it to the test. + +The ranks of people, besides the _Eree de hoi_ and his family, are +the _Erees_, or powerful chiefs; the _Manahoone_, or vassals; and the +_Teou_, or _Toutou_, servants, or rather slaves. The men of each of +these, according to the regular institution, form their connexions +with women of their respective ranks; but if with any inferior one, +which frequently happens, and a child be born, it is preserved, and +has the rank of the father, unless he happens to be an _Eree_, in +which case it is killed. If a woman of condition should choose an +inferior person to officiate as a husband, the children he has by her +are killed. And if a _Teou_ be caught in an intrigue with a woman +of the blood-royal, he is put to death. The son of the _Eree de hoi_ +succeeds his father in title and honours as soon as he is born; but if +he should have no children, the brother assumes the government at his +death. In other families, possessions always descend to the eldest +son; but he is obliged to maintain his brothers and sisters, who are +allowed houses on his estates. + +The boundaries of the several districts, into which Otaheite is +divided, are, generally, either rivulets, or low hills, which, in many +places, jut out into the sea. But the subdivisions into particular +property, are marked by large stones, which have remained from one +generation to another. The removal of any of these gives rise to +quarrels, which are decided by arms; each party bringing his friends +into the field. But if any one complain to the _Eree de hoi_, he +terminates the difference amicably. This is an offence, however, not +common; and long custom seems to secure property here as effectually +as the most severe laws do in other countries. In conformity also to +ancient practice established amongst them, crimes of a less general +nature are left to be punished by the sufferer, without referring +them to a superior. In this case, they seem to think that the injured +person will judge as equitably as those who are totally unconcerned; +and as long custom has allotted certain punishments for crimes of +different sorts, he is allowed to inflict them, without being amenable +to any other person. Thus, if any one be caught stealing, which is +commonly done in the night, the proprietor of the goods may put the +thief instantly to death; and if any one should enquire of him after +the deceased, it is sufficient to acquit him, if he only informs them +of the provocation he had to kill him. But so severe a punishment is +seldom inflicted, unless the articles that are stolen be reckoned very +valuable; such as breast-plates and plaited hair. If only cloth, or +even hogs, be stolen, and the thief escape, upon his being afterward +discovered, if he promise to return the same number of pieces of +cloth, or of hogs, no farther punishment is inflicted. Sometimes, +after keeping out of the way for a few days, he is forgiven, or, at +most, gets a slight beating. If a person kill another in a quarrel, +the friends of the deceased assemble, and engage the survivor and his +adherents. If they conquer, they take possession of the house, lands, +and goods of the other party; but if conquered, the reverse takes +place. If a _Manahoone_ kill the _Toutou_, or slave of a chief, the +latter sends people to take possession of the lands and house of the +former, who flies either to some other part of the island, or to some +of the neighbouring islands. After some months he returns, and finding +his stock of hogs much increased, he offers a large present of these, +with some red feathers, and other valuable articles, to the _Toutou_'s +master, who generally accepts the compensation, and permits him to +repossess his house and lands. This practice is the height of venality +and injustice; and the slayer of the slave seems to be under no +farther necessity of absconding, than to impose upon the lower class +of people, who are the sufferers. For it does not appear that the +chief has the least power to punish this _Manahoone_; but the whole +management marks a collusion between him and his superior, to gratify +the revenge of the former, and the avarice of the latter. Indeed, we +need not wonder that the killing of a man should be considered as +so venial an offence, amongst a people who do not consider it as any +crime at all to murder their own children. When talking to them, about +such instances of unnatural cruelty, and asking, whether the chiefs or +principal people were not angry, and did not punish them? I was told, +that the chief neither could nor would interfere in such cases; and +that every one had a right to do with his own child what he pleased. + +Though the productions, the people, and the customs and manners of +all the islands in the neighbourhood, may, in general, be reckoned +the same as at Otaheite, there are a few differences which should be +mentioned, as this may lead to an enquiry about more material ones +hereafter, if such there be, of which we are now ignorant. + +With regard to the little island Mataia, or Osnaburgh Island, which +lies twenty leagues east of Otaheite, and belongs to a chief of that +place, who gets from thence a kind of tribute, a different dialect +from that of Otaheite is there spoken. The men of Mataia also wear +their hair very long; and when they fight, cover their arms with a +substance which is beset with sharks' teeth, and their bodies with +a sort of shagreen, being skin of fishes. At the same time they +are ornamented with polished pearl-shells, which make a prodigious +glittering in the sun; and they have a very large one, that covers +them before, like a shield or breast plate. + +The language of Otaheite has many words, and even phrases, quite +unlike those of the islands to the westward of it, which all agree; +and this island is remarkable for producing great quantities of that +delicious fruit we call apples, which are found in none of the others, +except Eimeo. It has also the advantage of producing an odoriferous +wood, called _eahoi_, which is highly valued at the other isles, where +there is none; nor even in the south-east peninsula, or Tiaraboo, +though joining it. Huaheine and Eimeo, again, are remarkable for +producing greater quantities of yams than the other islands. And +at Mourooa there is a particular bird, found upon the hills, much +esteemed for its white feathers; at which place there is also said +to be some of the apples, though it be the most remote of the Society +Islands from Otaheite and Eimeo, where they are produced. + +Though the religion of all the islands be the same, each of them has +its particular, or tutelar god; whose names, according to the best +information I could receive, are set down in the following list: + + _Gods of the Isles_, + + Huaheine, _Tanne._ + Ulietea, _Oore._ + Otaha, _Tanne._ + Bolabola, _Oraa._ + Mourooa, _Otoo, ee weiahoo._ + Toobaee, _Tamouee._ + Tabooymanoo, or Saunders's \ + Island, which } _Taroa._ + is subject to Huaheine,/ + Eimeo, _Oroo hadoo._ + + Otaheite-nooe,} _Ooroo._ + Otaheite, { + Tiaraboo, } {_Opoonooa_ and whom they have + {_Whatooteeree_, { lately changed + for Oraa, god + of Bolabola. + + Mataia or Osnaburgh _Tooboo, toobooai, Ry maraiva._ + Island + + The Low Isles, Eastward _Tammaree._ + +Besides the cluster of high islands from Mataia to Mourooa inclusive, +the people of Otaheite are acquainted with a low uninhabited island, +which they name Mopeeha, and seems to be Howe's Island, laid down to +the westward of Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the +inhabitants of the most leeward islands sometimes go. There are also +several low islands, to the north-eastward of Otaheite, which they +have sometimes visited, but not constantly; and are said to be only at +the distance of two days' sail, with a fair wind. They were thus named +to me: + + Mataeeva, + Oanaa, called Oannah, in Dalrymple's letter to Hawkesworth + Taboohoe, + Awehee, + Kaoora, + Orootooa, + Otavaoo, where are large pearls. + +The inhabitants of these isles come more frequently to Otaheite and +the other neighbouring high islands, from whose natives they differ +in being of a darker colour, with a fiercer aspect, and differently +punctured. I was informed, that at Mataeeva, and others of them, it is +a custom for the men to give their daughters to strangers who arrive +amongst them; but the pairs must be five nights lying near each other, +without presuming to proceed farther. On the sixth evening, the +father of the young woman, treats his guest with food, and informs his +daughter, that she must, that night, receive him as her husband. The +stranger, however, must not offer to express the least dislike, though +the bed-fellow allotted to him should be ever so disagreeable; for +this is considered as an unpardonable affront, and is punished with +death. Forty men of Bolabola, who, incited by curiosity, had roamed as +far as Mataeeva in a canoe, were treated in this manner; one of them +having incautiously mentioned his dislike of the woman who fell to his +lot, in the hearing of a boy, who informed her father. In consequence +of this the Mateevans fell upon them; but these warlike people killed +three times their own number; though with the loss of all their +party, except five. These hid themselves in the woods, and took an +opportunity, when the others were burying their dead, to enter some +houses, where, having provided themselves with victuals and water, +they carried them on board a canoe, in which they made their escape; +and, after passing Mataia, at which they would not touch, at last +arrived safe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however, were sensible enough +that their travellers had been to blame; for a canoe from Mateeva, +arriving some time after at Bolabola, so far were they from +retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen, that they +acknowledged they had deserved their fate, and treated their visitors +kindly. + +These low isles are, doubtless, the farthest navigation which those of +Otaheite and the Society Islands perform at present. It seems to be a +groundless supposition, made by Mons. de Bougainville, that they made +voyages of the prodigious extent[5] he mentions; for I found, that it +is reckoned a sort of a prodigy, that a canoe, once driven by a storm +from Otaheite, should have fallen in with Mopeeha, or Howe's Island, +though so near, and directly to leeward. The knowledge they have +of other distant islands is, no doubt, traditional; and has been +communicated to them by the natives of those islands, driven +accidentally upon their coasts, who, besides giving them the names, +could easily inform them of the direction in which the places lie from +whence they came, and of the number of days they had been upon the +sea. In this manner, it may be supposed, that the natives of Wateeoo +have increased their catalogue by the addition of Otaheite and its +neighbouring isles, from the people we met with there, and also of +the other islands these had heard of. We may thus account for that +extensive knowledge attributed by the gentlemen of the Endeavour to +Tupia in such matters. And, with all due deference to his veracity, +I presume that it was, by the same means of information, that he was +able to direct the ship to Oheteroa, without having ever been +there himself, as he pretended; which, on many accounts, is very +improbable.[6] + +[Footnote 5: See _Bougainville's Voyage autour du Monde_, p. 228, +where we are told that these people sometimes navigate at the distance +of more than three hundred leagues.--D.] + +[Footnote 6: Though much of Mr Anderson's account of Otaheite, &c. be +very similar to what has been given in the preceding relations, yet +it must be allowed to possess too great merit to warrant omission +or alteration. He has been fortunate, certainly, in delineating the +manners and opinions of the people; and perhaps, on the whole, +his information bears more decisive marks of care and intimate +acquaintance than any other we possess on the subject. This, it may +be said, is no very high merit; because, having the benefit of pretty +extensive labours, he had only to compare a picture with its original, +as presented to his notice, and was under no necessity of dividing +his attention among a multiplicity of unconnected objects. Still this +remark is not just, unless it be shewn that he has merely affirmed +the likeness or unlikeness he observed betwixt them, and specified the +peculiarities of resemblance or dissimilarity. In place of doing +so, however, he has executed another picture. But such analogical +reasoning is more fanciful than judicious; and even were it correctly +applicable to the case, it is evident, that no one would be entitled +to decide as to the respective merits of the productions, who was not +familiar with the objects which they represented. Now, the fact is, +that Mr Anderson had no opportunity of availing himself of what others +had done before, unless we except the avowedly imperfect delineations +in Hawkesworth's Narrative, from which we can scarcely believe he +could derive material assistance. The reader will understand this +at once, by considering, that neither Cook's account of his second +voyage, nor the productions of Mr Forster, had been published before +the commencement of this expedition. It may, however, be imagined, +that Cook himself would communicate to Mr Anderson such particulars +of his former journal as were likely to aid him in his present +researches. Even this supposition is exceedingly unnecessary; because, +it appears from the Memoir of Cook, in the Biog. Brit. that that +officer rather received assistance from Mr Anderson during the former +navigation; and we shall afterwards see reason to consider him as +possessed of abilities, and a talent for observation, which rendered +him very independent of others. His description, therefore, is to +be judged an original one, and as such is entitled to the highest +distinction. It may indeed be somewhat chargeable with the +exaggerations of a warm fancy, especially as to what is said of the +religious notions of these islanders, which perhaps assume more of +system and regularity through the medium of Mr A.'s report, than it +is altogether likely would be found to exist in their popular creeds. +This is easily understood, without any aspersion on his veracity. For, +as it will be allowed that he possessed greater compass of mind, and +was more in the habit of exercising thought than the people whose +opinions he described, so it may thence be readily inferred, that, +what to them was confused and unconnected, as is commonly the case +with the superstitions of the illiterate in all countries, his +philosophical genius, working on obvious and remote analogies, wrought +into order, and stamped with the semblance, at least, of theoretical +consistency. We had at one time purposed to offer a few remarks +on certain parts of his description, but, on second thoughts, it +occurred, that, on the whole, the subject had received a very ample +share of attention in the course of these voyages.--E.] + + +SECTION X. + +_Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands.--Christmas +Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there.--Boats sent +ashore.--Great Success in catching Turtle.--An Eclipse of the Sun +observed.--Distress of two Seamen who had lost their Way.--Inscription +left in a Bottle.--Account of the Island.--Its Soil.--Trees and +Plants.--Birds.--Its Size.--Form.--Situation.--Anchoring Ground._ + +After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close-hauled, with +the wind between N.E. and E., hardly ever having it to the southward +of E., till after we had crossed the Line, and had got into N. +latitudes. So that our course, made good, was always to the W. of N., +and sometimes no better than N.W. + +Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure from +England, during which, we had not, upon the whole, been unprofitably +employed, I was sensible, that with regard to the principal object of +my instructions, our voyage was, at this time, only beginning; and, +therefore, my attention to every circumstance that might contribute +toward our safety and our ultimate success, was now to be called forth +anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our provisions +at the last islands; and, as soon as I had left them, and got beyond +the extent of my former discoveries, I ordered a survey to be taken +of all the boatswain's and carpenter's stores that were in the ships, +that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition +of every article; and, by that means, know how to use them to the +greatest advantage. + +Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no opportunity of +enquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any islands in a N. or +N.W. direction from them; but I did not find that they knew of any. +Nor did we meet with any thing that indicated the vicinity of land, +till we came to about the latitude of 8 deg. S., where we began to see +birds, such as boobies, tropic, and men-of-war birds, tern, and some +other sorts. At this time our longitude was 205 deg. E. Mendana, in his +first voyage in 1568,[1] discovered an island which he named Isla de +Jesus, in latitude 6 deg. 45' S., and 1450 leagues from Callao, which +is 200 deg. E. longitude from Greenwich. We crossed this latitude near a +hundred leagues to the eastward of this longitude, and saw there many +of the above-mentioned birds, which are seldom known to go very far +from land. + +[Footnote 1: See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. i. p. 45.] + +In the night, between the 22d and 23d, we crossed the Line in the +longitude of 203 deg. 15' E. Here the variation of the compass was 6 deg. 30' +E. nearly. + +On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land was discovered +bearing N.E. by E. 1/2 E. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be +one of those low islands so common in this ocean, that is, a narrow +bank of land inclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen +in two or three places; but, in general, the land had a very barren +appearance. At noon, it extended from N.E. by E. to S. by E. 1/2 E., +about four miles distant. The wind was at E.S.E., so that we were +under a necessity of making a few boards, to get up to the lee or west +side, where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, +over a bottom of fine sand, the least depth about half a mile from, +the breakers, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting with +soundings determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get some +turtles, for the island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, +and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty +fathoms; and then a boat was dispatched to examine whether it was +practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea broke in +a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the +officer, whom I had entrusted with this examination, reported to me +that he could see no place where a boat could land, but that there was +great abundance of fish in the shoal water, without the breakers. + +At day-break, the next morning, I sent two boats, one from each ship, +to search more accurately for a landing-place; and, at the same time, +two others to fish at a grappling near the shore. These last returned +about eight o'clock, with upward of two hundred weight of fish. +Encouraged by this success, they were dispatched again after +breakfast; and I then went in another boat, to take a view of +the coast and attempt landing, but this I found to be wholly +impracticable. Toward noon, the two boats, sent on the same search, +returned. The master, who was in that belonging to the Resolution, +reported to me, that about a league and a half to the N., was a break +in the land, and a channel into the _lagoon_, consequently, that there +was a fit place for landing; and that he had found the same soundings +off this entrance, as we had where we now lay. In consequence of this +report the ships weighed anchor, and, after two or three trips, came +to again in twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark sand, +before a small island that lies at the entrance of the _lagoon_, and +on each side of which there is a channel leading into it, but only fit +for boats. The water in the _lagoon_ itself is all very shallow. + +On the 26th, in the morning, I ordered Captain Clerke to send a +boat, with an officer, to the S.E. part of the _lagoon_, to look for +turtles; and Mr King and I went each in a boat to the N.E. part. I +intended to have gone to the most easterly extremity, but the wind +blew too fresh to allow it, and obliged us to land more to leeward, on +a sandy flat, where we caught one turtle, the only one that we saw +in the _lagoon_. We walked, or rather waded, through the water to +an island, where finding nothing but a few birds, I left it, and +proceeded to the land that bounds the sea to the N.W., leaving Mr King +to observe the sun's meridian altitude. I found this land to be even +more barren than the island I had been upon; but walking over to the +sea-coast, I saw five turtles close to the shore. One of these we +caught, and the rest made their escape. Not seeing any more I returned +on board, as did Mr King soon after, without having seen one turtle. +We, however, did not despair of getting a supply; for some of Captain +Clerke's officers, who had been ashore on the land to the southward +of the channel leading into the _lagoon_, had been more fortunate, and +caught several there. + +In the morning of the 27th, the pinnace and cutter, under the command +of Mr King, were sent to the S.E. part of the island, within the +_lagoon_, and the small cutter to the northward, where I had been the +day before, both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch +turtles. Captain Clerke having had some of his people on shore all +night, they had been so fortunate as to turn between forty and fifty +on the sand, which were brought on board with all expedition this day. +And, in the afternoon, the party I had sent northward returned with +six. They were sent back again, and remained there till we left the +island, having in general pretty good success. + +On the 28th, I landed in company with Mr Bayly, on the island which +lies between the two channels into the _lagoon_, to prepare the +telescopes for observing the approaching eclipse of the sun, which +was one great inducement to my anchoring here. About noon, Mr King +returned with one boat and eight turtles, leaving seven behind to +be brought by the other boat, whose people were employed in catching +more; and, in the evening, the same boat was sent with water and +provisions for them. Mr Williamson now went to superintend this +duty in the room of Mr King, who remained on board to attend the +observation of the eclipse. + +The next day, Mr Williamson dispatched the two boats back to the ship, +laden with turtles. At the same time, he sent me a message, desiring +that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had found a +landing-place on the S.E. side of the island, where most of the +turtles were caught; so that by sending the boats thither, the trouble +would be saved of carrying them over the land to the inside of the +_lagoon_, as had been hitherto done. The boats were accordingly +dispatched to the place which he pointed out. + +On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to happen, +Mr King, Mr Bayly, and myself, went ashore on the small island +above-mentioned, to attend the observation. The sky was over-cast till +past nine o'clock, when the clouds about the sun dispersed long enough +to take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made use +of. After this, it was again obscured, till about thirty minutes past +nine, and then we found that the eclipse was begun. We now fixed the +micrometers to the telescopes, and observed or measured the uneclipsed +part of the sun's disk. At these observations I continued about +three-quarters of an hour before the end, when I left off, being, in +fact, unable to continue them longer, on account of the great heat of +the sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. + +The sun was clouded at times; but it was clear when the eclipse ended, +the time of which was observed as follows: + + Mr Bayly 0 26 3 + By Mr King at 0 26 1 Apparent Time p.m. + Myself 0 25 37 + +Mr Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, and Mr +King with a reflector. As Mr Bayly's telescope and mine were of the +same magnifying power, I ought not to have differed so much from +him as I did. Perhaps, it was, in part, if not wholly owing to a +protuberance in the moon, which escaped my notice, but was seen by +both the other gentlemen. + +In the afternoon, the boats and turtling party, at the S.E. part of +the island, all returned on board, except a seaman belonging to the +Discovery, who had been missing two days. There were two of them at +first who had lost their way, but disagreeing about the most probable +track to bring them back to their companions, they had separated, and +one of them joined the party, after having been absent twenty-four +hours, and been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be +had, for there is none upon the whole island; nor was there a single +cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst, +be had recourse to the singular expedient of killing turtles, and +drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself, when weary, +of which he said he felt the good effects, was equally whimsical. He +undressed himself, and lay down for some time in the shallow water +upon the beach.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The practice is deserving of a better epithet. It is +highly judicious, and may often be adopted with the best effects. The +use of the cold bath in cases of fever is not materially different; +and it is most certain, that washing the body with either cold or warm +water, is one of the best methods of relieving the sense of weariness +consequent on fatiguing exercise. Some caution is undoubtedly required +in using it; but on the whole, there is much less danger in the +application than is commonly imagined. The natural indications are +chiefly to be regarded. Thus it is not likely that a person already +cooled down below the natural standard, so as to feel positively cold +or chilly, will run the risk of greater reduction of temperature by +immersion in cold water; and on the other hand, when most warm, +in which state such reduction is safest, there is the greatest +inclination to have recourse to it. It is advisable to employ friction +with cloths in most cases, but more especially where perspiration has +been brought on, in which state, cold bathing, unless preceded by that +process in such a degree as to excite a sense of heat on the surface, +is improper, for a reason above assigned, perspiration always +occasioning a reduction of temperature. This subject is an important +one, but could not be discussed here; there seemed, however, some good +end likely to be answered by at least directing attention to it.--E.] + +It was a matter of surprise to every one, how these two men could +contrive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, +from the sea-coast to the _lagoon_, where the boats lay, was not more +than three miles across, nor was there any thing to obstruct their +view, for the country was a flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon +it, and from many parts of it, the masts of the ships could easily be +seen. But this was a rule of direction they never once thought of; +nor did they recollect in what quarter of the island the ships had +anchored, and they were as much at a loss how to get back to them, or +to the party they had straggled from, as if they had but just +dropped from the clouds. Considering how strange a set of beings the +generality of seamen are, when on shore, instead of being surprised +that these two men should thus lose their way, it is rather to be +wondered at, that no more of the party were missing. Indeed, one +of those who landed with me was in a similar situation; but he had +sagacity enough to know that the ships were to leeward, and got +on board almost as soon as it was discovered that he had been left +behind. + +As soon as Captain Clerke knew that one of the stragglers was still in +this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him; but neither +the man nor the party having come back, the next morning I ordered two +boats into the _lagoon_, to go different ways, in prosecution of the +search. Not long after, Captain Clerke's party returned with their +lost companion; and my boats having now no object left, I called +them back by signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far greater +distress than the other straggler, not only as having been lost +a longer time, but as we found that he was too squeamish to drink +turtle's blood. + +Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a state of vegetation, I +ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed +the eclipse, and some melon-seeds were sown in another place. I also +left, on the little island, a bottle containing this inscription: + + _Georgius, Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777._ + _Naves {Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr._ + _{Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr._ + +On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our +parties from the land, and the turtles they had caught. Before this +was completed it was late in the afternoon, so that I did not think +proper to sail till next morning. We got at this island, to both +ships, about three hundred turtles, weighing, one with another, about +ninety or a hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind, and +perhaps as good as any in the world. We also caught, with hook and +line, as much fish as we could consume during our stay. They consisted +principally of cavallies of different sizes, large and small snappers, +and a few of two sorts of rock-fish, one with numerous spots of blue, +and the other with whitish streaks scattered about. + +The soil of this island, in some places, is light and black, evidently +composed of decayed vegetables, the dung of birds, and sand. There +are other places again, where nothing but marine productions, such as +broken coral stones and shells are to be seen. These are deposited in +long narrow ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the sea-coast, +not unlike a ploughed field, and must have been thrown up by the +waves, though, at this time, they do not reach within a mile of some +of these places. This seems to furnish an incontestible proof that the +island has been produced by accessions from the sea, and is in a state +of increase; for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the +shells, are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds, +from the beach, to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh +water was any where found, though frequently dug for. We met with +several ponds of salt water, which had no visible communication with +the sea, and must, therefore, in all probability, be filled by the +water filtrating through the sand in high tides. One of the lost men +found some salt on the S.E. part of the island. But though this was an +article of which we were in want, a man who could lose himself, as +he did, and not know whether he was travelling east, west, north, or +south, was not to be depended upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the +place. + +There were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been +here before us; and, indeed, should any one be so unfortunate as to be +accidentally driven upon the island, or left there, it is hard to +say, that he could be able to prolong existence. There is, indeed, +abundance of birds and fish, but no visible means of allaying thirst, +nor any vegetable that could supply the place of bread, or correct the +bad effects of an animal diet, which, in all probability, would soon +prove fatal alone. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number +of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and, in +general, what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice +salt, or brackish. So that a ship touching here, must expect nothing +but fish and turtles, and of these an abundant supply may be depended +upon. + +On some parts of the land were a few low trees. Mr Anderson gave me an +account also of two small shrubs, and, of two or three small plants, +all which we had seen on Palmerston's Island and Otakootaia. There +was also a species of _sida_ or Indian mallow, a sort of purslain, +and another small plant, that seemed, from its leaves, a +_mesembryanthemum_, with two species of grass. But each of these +vegetable productions was in so small a quantity, and grew with so +much languor, that one is almost surprised that the species do not +become extinct. + +Under the low trees above-mentioned, sat infinite numbers of a new +species of tern, or egg-bird. These are black above and white below, +with a white arch on the forehead, and are rather larger than the +common noddy. Most of them had lately hatched their young, which lay +under old ones upon the bare ground. The rest had eggs, of which they +only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, bluish and speckled with +black. There were also a good many common boobies, a sort that are +almost like a gannet, and a sooty or chocolate-coloured one, with a +white belly. To this list we must add men-of-war birds, tropic-birds, +curlews, sand-pipers, a small land-bird like a hedge-sparrow, +land-crabs, small lizards, and rats. + +As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery _Christmas +Island_. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in +circumference. It seemed to be of a semicircular form, or like the +moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the N. and S. points, +which bear from each other nearly N. by E., and S. by W., four or five +leagues distant. This west side, or the little isle at the entrance +into the _lagoon_, upon which we observed the eclipse, lies in the +latitude of 1 deg. 59' N., and in the longitude of 202 deg. 30' E., determined +by a considerable number of lunar observations, which differed only +7' from the time-keeper, it being so much less. The variation of the +compass was 6 deg. 22-1/2' E., and the dip of the north end of the needle +11 deg. 54'. + +Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef +of coral-rocks, which extends but a little way from the shore. +Farther out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of fine sand, +extending a mile into the sea. On this bank is good anchorage, in +any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the +first-mentioned depth, the reef would be too near; and, in more than +the last, the edge of the bank would not be at a sufficient distance. +During the time we lay here, the wind blew constantly a fresh gale at +E., or E. by S., except one or two days. We had, always, a great swell +from the northward, which broke upon the reef in a prodigious surf. +We had found this swell before we came to the island, and it continued +for some days after we left it. + + +SECTION XI. + +_Some Islands discovered.--Account of the Natives of Atooi, who came +off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on board.--One of them +killed.--Precautions used to prevent Intercourse with the Females.--A +Watering-place found.--Reception upon landing.--Excursion into the +Country.--A Morai visited and described.--Graves of the Chiefs, and of +the human Sacrifices, there buried.--Another Island, called Oneeheow, +visited.--Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to the +Ships.--Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals.--A Party +sent ashore, who remain two Nights.--Account of what passed on +landing.--The Ships leave, the Islands, and proceed to the North._ + +On the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, and resumed our +course to the N., having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at E., and +E.S.E., till we got into the latitude of 7 deg. 45' N., and the longitude +of 205 deg. E., where we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a N.E. +by E., and E.N.E. wind. At first it blew faint, but freshened as we +advanced to the N. We continued to see birds every day of the sorts +last mentioned, sometimes in greater numbers than others, and between +the latitude of 10 deg. and 11 deg., we saw several turtles. All these are +looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land. However, we discovered +none till day-break, in the morning of the 18th, when an island made +its appearance, bearing N.E. by E.; and soon after, we saw more +land bearing N., and entirely detached from the former. Both had the +appearance of being high land. At noon, the first bore N.E. by E. 1/2 +E., by estimation about eight or nine leagues distant; and an elevated +hill, near the east end of the other, bore N. 1/2 W. Our latitude, at +this time, was 21 deg. 12' N., and longitude 200 deg. 41' E. We had now light +airs and calms by turns, so that, at sunset, we were not less than +nine or ten leagues from the nearest land. + +On the 19th, at sun-rise, the island first seen, bore E., several +leagues distant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our +getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach; and, not +long after, discovered a third island in the direction of W.N.W., as +far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at E. by +N., and I steered for the east end of the second island, which, at +noon, extended from N. 1/2 E. to W.N.W. 1/4 W., the nearest part being +about two leagues distant. At this time, we were in some doubt whether +or no the land before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon +cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the +ships. I immediately brought-to, to give them time to join us. They +had from three to six men each; and, on their approach, we were +agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite, +and of the other islands we had lately visited. It required but very +little address to get them to come along-side; but no entreaties could +prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals to +a rope, and gave them to those in one of the canoes, who, in return, +tied some small mackerel to the rope as an equivalent. This was +repeated; and some small nails, or bits of iron, which they valued +more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged +more fish and a sweet potatoe, a sure sign that they had some notion +of bartering, or, at least, of returning one present for another. They +had nothing else in their canoes, except some large gourd shells, and +a kind of fishing-net; but one of them offered for sale the piece +of stuff that he wore round his waist, after the manner of the other +islands. These people were of a brown colour; and, though of the +common size, were stoutly made. There was little difference in the +casts of their colour, but a considerable variation in their features, +some of their visages not being very unlike those of Europeans. The +hair of most of them was cropt pretty short, others had it flowing +loose, and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the +head. In all it seemed to be naturally black; but most of them had +stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some +stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore +their beards. They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did we +observe that their ears were perforated; but some were punctured on +the hands, or near the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits +of cloth which they wore, were curiously-stained with red, black, and +white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind, +if we except some small stones, which they had evidently brought for +their own defence, and these they threw overboard when they found that +they were not wanted. + +Seeing no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern extreme of the +island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along the S.E. side, at the +distance of half a league from the shore. As soon as we made sail the +canoes left us; but others came off as we proceeded along the coast, +bringing with them roasting-pigs, and some very fine potatoes, which +they had exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever was offered +to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail, so +that we again found ourselves in a land of plenty, and just at +the time when the turtle, which we had so fortunately procured at +Christmas Island, were nearly expended. We passed several villages, +some seated near the sea, and others farther up the country. The +inhabitants of all of them crowded to the shore, and collected +themselves on the elevated places to view the ships. The land upon +this side of the island rises in a gentle slope, from the sea to the +foot of the mountains, which occupy the centre of the country, except +at one place near the east end, where they rise directly from the +sea, and seemed to be formed of nothing but stone, or rocks lying in +horizontal _strata_. We saw no wood but what was up in the interior +part of the island, except a few trees about the villages, near +which, also, we could observe several plantations of plantains and +sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated for roots. + +We continued to sound, without striking ground with a line of fifty +fathoms, till we came abreast of a low point, which is about the +middle of the east side of the island, or rather nearer the N.W. end. +Here we met with twelve and fourteen fathoms over a rocky bottom. +Being past this point, from which the coast trended more northerly, +we had twenty, then sixteen, twelve, and, at last, five fathoms over +a sandy bottom. The last soundings were about a mile from the shore. +Night now put a stop to any farther researches, and we spent it +standing off and on. The next morning we stood in for the land, and +were met by several canoes filled with people, some of whom took +courage and ventured on board. + +In the course of my several voyages I never before met with the +natives of any place so much astonished, as these people were upon +entering a ship. Their eyes were continually flying from object to +object; the wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing +their entire ignorance about every thing they saw, and strongly +marking to us, that, till now, they had never been visited by +Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except +iron; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had +known it in some small quantity, brought to them at some distant +period. They seemed only to understand that it was a substance much +better adapted to the purposes of cutting or of boring of holes, than +any thing their own country produced. They asked for it by the name +of _hamaite_, probably referring to some instrument, in the making of +which iron could be usefully employed; for they applied that name to +the blade of a knife, though we could be certain that they had no +idea of that particular instrument, nor could they at all handle it +properly. For the same reason they frequently called iron by the name +of _toe_, which, in their language, signifies a hatchet, or rather a +kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately answered, +"We do not know; you know what it is, and we only understand it as +_toe_, or _hamaite_." When we shewed them some beads, they asked +first, "What they were;" and then "whether they should eat them." +But on their being told that they were to be hung in their ears, +they returned them as useless. They were equally indifferent as to a +looking-glass, which was offered them, and returned it for the same +reason; but sufficiently expressed their desire for _hamaite_ and +_toe_, which they wished might be very large. Plates of earthen-ware, +china-cups, and other such things, were so new to them, that they +asked if they were made of wood, but wished to have some, that +they might carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in some +respects, naturally well-bred; or, at least, fearful of giving +offence, asking whether they should sit down, whether they should +spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of them repeated a long prayer +before they came on board; and others afterward sung and made motions +with their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the dances +of the islands we had lately visited. There was another circumstance +in which they also perfectly resembled those other islanders. At +first, on their entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal every +thing they came near, or rather to take it openly, as what we either +should not resent, or not hinder. We soon convinced them of their +mistake; and if they, after some time, became less active in +appropriating to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was +because they found that we kept a watchful eye over them. + +At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed +boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a +landing-place, and for fresh water. I ordered him, that if he should +find it necessary to land in search of the latter, not to suffer +more than one man to go with him out of the boats. Just as they +were putting off from the ship, one of the natives having stole the +butcher's cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened +to the shore, the boats pursuing him in vain. + +The order not to permit the crews of the boats to go on shore was +issued, that I might do every thing in my power to prevent the +importation of a fatal disease into this island, which I knew some of +our men now laboured under, and which, unfortunately, had been already +communicated by us to other islands in these seas. With the same view +I ordered all female visitors to be excluded from the ships. Many of +them had come off in the canoes. Their size, colour, and features did +not differ much from those of the men; and though their countenances +were remarkably open and agreeable, there were few traces of delicacy +to be seen, either in their faces, or other proportions. The only +difference in their dress was their having a piece of cloth about +the body, reaching from near the middle to half-way down the thighs, +instead of the _maro_ worn by the other sex. They would as readily +have favoured us with their company on board as the men; but I wished +to prevent all connection, which might, too probably, convey an +irreparable injury to themselves, and, through their means, to the +whole nation. Another necessary precaution was taken, by strictly +enjoining, that no person known to be capable of propagating the +infection, should be sent upon duty out of the ships. + +Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had the desired +effect or no, time only can discover. I had been equally attentive +to the same object, when I first visited the Friendly Islands, yet I +afterwards found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded. And I +am much afraid that this will always be the case in such voyages as +ours, whenever it is necessary to have a number of people on shore. +The opportunities and inducements to an intercourse between the sexes +are then too numerous to be guarded against; and, however confident we +may be of the health of our men, we are often undeceived too late. It +is even a matter of doubt with me, if it be always in the power of the +most skilful of the faculty to pronounce, with any certainty, whether +a person who has been under their care, in certain stages of this +malady, is so effectually cured, as to leave no possibility of his +being still capable of communicating the taint. I think I could +mention some instances which justify my presuming to hazard this +opinion. It is likewise well known, that amongst a number of men, +there are, generally, to be found some so bashful as to endeavour to +conceal their labouring under any symptoms of this disorder. And +there are others again, so profligate, as not to care to whom they +communicate it. Of this last we had an instance at Tongataboo, in the +gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on shore to manage +the trade for that ship. After he knew that he had contracted this +disease, he continued to have connections with different women, +who were supposed not to have already contracted it. His companions +expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Clerke, hearing of +this dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered him on board.[1] + +[Footnote 1: One can scarcely help smiling at the mode Dr Kippis uses +to express his abhorrence of this man's conduct. It may be seen in +his account of this voyage, given in the Biog. Brit. "If I knew the +rascal's name," says he, "I would hang it up, as far as lies in my +power, to everlasting infamy!" Undoubtedly it richly deserved such +treatment, but there was no necessity for the doctor exhibiting such +keenness for the office of executioner.--E.] + +While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on +and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon, Mr +Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond +behind a beach near one of the villages, which the natives told him +contained fresh water, and that there was anchoring-ground before it. +He also reported that he had attempted to land in another place, but +was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great +numbers, attempted to take away the oars, musquets, and, in short, +every thing that they could lay hold of, and pressed so thick upon +him, that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But +this unhappy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the +island, so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the +kind had happened. Mr Williamson told me, that after the man fell, +his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired from +the boat; but still they made signals for our people to land, which he +declined. It did not appear to Mr Williamson, that the natives had +any design to kill, or even to hurt, any of his party; but they seemed +excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being, at +the same time, ready to give in return, any thing of their own. + +After the boats were on board, I dispatched one of them to lie in the +best anchoring-ground; and as soon as she had got to this station, I +bore down with the ships, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, +the bottom a fine grey sand. The east point of the road, which was the +low point before-mentioned, bore S. 51 deg. E., the west point N. 65 deg. W., +and the village, behind which the water was said to be, N.E. by E., +distant one mile. But, little more than a quarter of a mile from us, +there were breakers, which I did not see till after the Resolution was +placed. The Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, and farther +from the land. The ships being thus stationed, between three and four +o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats, and twelve marines, +to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabitants, +several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before +the village; behind it was a narrow valley, the bottom of which was +occupied by the piece of water. + +The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives +all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble +posture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise. +They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, +with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen +practised on such occasions, at the Society and other islands; and a +long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of +the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their +proffered friendship, by giving them, in return, such presents as +I had brought with me from the ship for that purpose. When this +introductory business was finished, I stationed a guard upon the +beach, and got some of the natives to conduct me to the water, which +proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose. +It was so considerable, that it may be called a lake; and it extended +farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself +about this very essential point, and about the peaceable disposition +of the natives, I returned on board, and then gave orders that every +thing should be in readiness for landing and filling our water-casks +in the morning, when I went ashore with the people employed in that +service, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were +stationed on the beach. + +As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, +which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and +pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. We met with no +obstruction in watering; on the contrary, the natives assisted our +men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed +whatever we required. Every thing thus going on to my satisfaction, +and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left +the command to Mr Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an +excursion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson +and Mr Webber; the former of whom was as well qualified to describe +with the pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, every +thing we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of +natives followed us; and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his +activity in keeping the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. +This man, from time to time, proclaimed our approach; and every one +whom we met, fell prostrate upon the ground, and remained in that +position till we had passed. This, as I afterward understood, is the +mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As we ranged +down the coast from the east, in the ships, we had observed at every +village one or more elevated white objects, like pyramids or other +obelisks; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet +high, was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and +seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer +inspection of it, was the principal object of my walk. Our guide +perfectly understood that we wished to be conducted to it. But it +happened to be so placed, that we could not get at it, being separated +from us by the pool of water. However, there being another of the same +kind within our reach, about half a mile off, upon our side of the +valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, we saw that +it stood in a burying-ground, or _morai_, the resemblance of which, +in many respects to those we were so well acquainted with at other +islands in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike +us; and we also soon found, that the several parts that compose it, +were called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable +extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. The space +inclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones; and at one end of it, +stood what I call the pyramid, but, in the language of the island, is +named _henananoo_, which appeared evidently to be an exact model of +the larger one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet +square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were +composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus +forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom +to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state; but there were +sufficient remaining marks to shew that it had originally been covered +with a thin light grey cloth, which these people, it would seem, +consecrate to religions purposes, as we could see a good deal of it +hanging in different parts of the _morai_, and some of it had been +forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of the pyramid were +long pieces of wicker-work, called _hereanee_, in the same ruinous +condition, with two slender poles, inclining to each other, at one +corner, where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at the +height of five or six feet. This they called _herairemy_; and informed +us, that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it agree +exactly with the _whatta_ of Otaheite. Before the _henananoo_ were a +few pieces of wood, carved into something like human figures, which, +with a stone near two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called +_hoho_, and consecrated to _Tongarooa_, who is the god of these +people, still more and more reminded us of what we used to meet with +in the _morais_ of the islands we had lately left. Adjoining to these, +on the outside of the _morai_, was a small shed, no bigger than a +dog-kennel, which they called _hareepahoo_; and before it was a grave, +where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay. + +On the farther side of the area of the _morai_, stood a house or +shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being +narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which, though much longer, +was lower than their common dwelling places, we were informed, was +called _hemanaa_. The entrance into it was at the middle of the side, +which was in the _morai_. On the farther side of this house, opposite +the entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, with +pedestals, in all about three feet high, neither very indifferently +designed or executed. These were said to be _Eatooa no Veheina_, or +representations of goddesses. On the head of one of them was a carved +helmet, not unlike those worn, by the ancient warriors; and on that of +the other, a cylindrical cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, +called _tomou_; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the +loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each, was +also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them, in +the same manner; and between, or before, the pedestals, lay a quantity +of fern, in a heap. It was obvious, that this had been deposited +there, piece by piece, and at different times; for there was of it, in +all states, from what was quite decayed, to what was still fresh and +green. + +In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong +space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, and covered with shreds of +the cloth so often mentioned. This, on enquiry, we found was the grave +of seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called +_Heneene_. We had met already with so many striking instances of +resemblance, between the burying-place we were now visiting, and those +of the islands we had lately come from in the South Pacific, that we +had little doubt in our minds, that the resemblance existed also, in +the ceremonies practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of +offering human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed by +direct evidence. For, on coming out of the house, just on one side +of the entrance, we saw a small square place, and another still less, +near it; and on asking what these were, our guide immediately informed +us, that in the one was buried a man who had been sacrificed; a +_Taa-ta_ (_Tanata_ or _Tangata_, in this country) _taboo_ (_tafoo_, as +here pronounced); and in the other, a hog, which had also been made +an offering to the divinity. At a little distance from these, near +the middle of the _morai_, were three more of these square inclosed +places, with two pieces of carved wood at each, and upon them a heap +of fern. These, we were told, were the graves of three chiefs; and +before them was an oblong, inclosed space, to which our conductor also +gave the name of _Tangata taboo_; telling us, so explicitly, that we +could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices had been +buried there; that is, one at the funeral of each chief. It was with +most sincere concern, that I could trace, on such undoubted evidence, +the prevalence of these bloody rites, throughout this immense ocean, +amongst people disjoined by such a distance, and even ignorant of each +other's existence, though so strongly marked as originally of the same +nation. It was no small addition to this concern, to reflect, that +every appearance led us to believe, that the barbarous practice was +very general here. The island seemed to abound with such places of +sacrifice as this which we were now visiting, and which appeared to +be one of the most inconsiderable of them, being far less conspicuous +than several others which we had seen, as we sailed along the coast, +and particularly than that on the opposite side of the water, in +this valley, the white _henananoo_, or pyramid, of which, we were now +almost sure, derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated +cloth laid over it. In several parts, within the inclosure of this +burying-ground, were planted trees of the _cordia sebestina_ some +of the _morinda citrifolia_, and several plants of the _etee_, or +_jeejee_, of Tongataboo, with the leaves of which the _hemanaa_ was +thatched; and, as I observed, that this plant was not made use of in +thatching their dwelling-houses, probably it is reserved entirely for +religious purposes. + +Our road to and from the _morai_, which I have described, lay through +the plantations. The greatest part of the ground was quite flat, with +ditches full of water intersecting different parts, and roads that +seemed artificially raised to some height. The interspaces were, in +general, planted with _taro_, which grows here with great strength, as +the fields are sunk below the common level, so as to contain the water +necessary to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from the +same source, which supplies the large pool from which we filled +our casks. On the drier spaces were several spots, where the +cloth-mulberry was planted, in regular rows; also growing vigorously, +and kept very clean. The cocoa-trees were not in so thriving a state, +and were all low, but the plantain-trees made a better appearance, +though they were not large. In general, the trees round this village, +and which were seen at many of those which we passed before we +anchored, are the _cordia sebestina_, but of a more diminutive size +than the product of the southern isles. The greatest part of the +village stands near the beach, and consists of above sixty houses +there; but, perhaps, about forty more stand scattered about, farther +up the country, toward the burying-place. + +After we had examined, very carefully, every thing that was to be seen +about the _morai_, and Mr Webber had taken drawings of it, and of the +adjoining country, we returned by a different route. I found a great +crowd assembled at the beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and +roots, going on there, with the greatest good order, though I did not +observe any particular person, who took the lead amongst the rest of +his countrymen. At noon, I went on board to dinner, and then sent +Mr King to command the party ashore. He was to have gone upon that +service in the morning, but was then detained in the ship, to make +lunar observations. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by +Captain Clerke, with a view to make another excursion up the country. +But, before this could be put in execution, the day was too far spent, +so that I laid aside my intention for the present, and it so happened +that I had not another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body +on board, having procured, in the course of the day, nine tons of +water; and, by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about +seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a +few plantains and _taro_ roots. These people merited our best +commendations, in this commercial intercourse, never once attempting +to cheat us, either ashore or alongside the ships. Some of +them, indeed, as already mentioned, at first betrayed a thievish +disposition, or rather they thought, that they had a right to every +thing they could lay their hands upon; but they soon laid aside a +conduct, which, we convinced them, they could not persevere in with +impunity. + +Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could +not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, +even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might +be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and shape of +the short cloaks worn by the women in England, and by the men in +Spain reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. The +ground of them is a net-work, upon which the most beautiful red +and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that the surface might be +compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both +as to the feel, and the glossy appearance. The manner of varying the +mixture is very different, some having triangular spaces of red and +yellow, alternately, others a kind of crescent; and some, that were +entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made them appear, at +some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The +brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new, +added not a little to their fine appearance, and we found that they +were in high estimation with their owners, for they would not, at +first, part with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no +less a price than a musket. However, some were afterward purchased for +very large nails. Such of them as were of the best sort, were scarce; +and it should seem, that they are only used on the occasion of some +particular ceremony, or diversion; for the people who had them, always +made some gesticulations, which we had seen used before by those who +sung. + +The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or +crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth; and it sits very close upon the +head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and +osiers, covered with a net work, into which are wrought feathers, in +the same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less +diversified, the greater part being red, with some black yellow, +or green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction of the +crest. These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks, for the +natives sometimes appeared in both together. + +We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get such a quantity +of these beautiful feathers, but were soon informed as to one sort, +for they afterward brought great numbers of skins of small red birds +for sale, which were often tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or +had a small wooden skewer run through their nostrils. At the first, +those that were bought, consisted only of the skin from behind +the wings forward, but we afterwards got many with the hind part, +including the tail and feet. The first, however, struck us at once +with the origin of the fable formerly adopted, of the birds of +paradise wanting legs, and sufficiently explained that circumstance. +Probably the people of the islands east of the Moluccas, from whence +the skins of the birds of paradise are brought, cut off their feet, +for the very reason assigned by the people of Atooi, for the like +practice, which was, that they thereby can preserve them with greater +ease, without losing any part which they reckon valuable. The red-bird +of our island was judged by Mr Anderson to be a species of _merops_, +about the size of a sparrow, of a beautiful scarlet colour, with a +black tail and wings, and an arched bill, twice the length of the +head, which, with the feet, was also of a reddish colour. The contents +of the heads were taken out, as in the birds of paradise; but it did +not appear that they used any other method to preserve them, than by +simple drying, for the skins, though moist, had neither a taste +nor smell that could give room to suspect the use of antiputrescent +substances.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is matter of real curiosity to observe, how very +extensively the predilection for red feathers is spread throughout +all the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and the additional circumstance, +mentioned in this paragraph, will, probably, be looked upon by those +who amuse themselves in tracing the wonderful migrations of the same +family, or tribe, as a confirmation of that hypothesis, (built indeed +on other instances of resemblance,) which considers New Guinea, and +its neighbouring East India islands, from whence the Dutch bring +their birds of Paradise, as originally peopled by the same race, which +Captain Cook found at every island from New Zealand to this new group, +to which Atooi belongs. + +What Mr Sonnerat tells us, about the bird of Paradise, agrees +perfectly with the account here given of the preserved red-birds. +Speaking of the _Papous_, he proceeds thus: "Ils nous presenterent +plusieurs especes d'oiseaux, aussi elegants par leur forme, que +brillants par l'eclat de leur couleurs. La depouille des oiseaux sert +a la parure des Chefs, qui la portent attachee a leurs bonnets en +forme d'aigrettes. _Mais en preparant les peaux, ils coupent les +pieds_. Les Hollandois, qui trafiquent sur ces cotes, y achetent de +ces peaux ainsi preparees, les transportent en Perse, a Surate, dans +les Indes, ou ils les vendent fort chere aux habitans riches, qui +en font des aigrettes pour leurs turbans, et pour le casque des +guerriers, et qui en parent leur chevaux. C'est de la qu'est venue +l'opinion, qu'une de ces especes d'oiseaux (l'oiseau de pardis) _n'a +point de pattes_. Les Hollandois ont accredite ces fables, qui, en +jettant du merveilleux sur l'objet dont ils traffiquoient, +etoient propres a le rendre plus precieux, et a en rechausser la +valeur."--Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee, p. 154.--D.] + +In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained almost +continually. The wind was at S.E., S.S.E., and S., which brought in a +short, chopping sea; and as there were breakers little more than two +cables length from the stern of our ship, her situation was none of +the safest. The surf broke so high against the shore, that we could +not land in our boats; but the day was not wholly lost, for the +natives ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the ships hogs and +roots, which they bartered as before. One of our visitors, on this +occasion, who offered some fish-hooks to sale, was observed to have +a very small parcel, tied to the string of one of them, which he +separated with great care, and reserved for himself, when he parted +with the hook. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and +spoke something of its being dead, at the same time saying, it was +bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more questions about it. On +seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents of this parcel, he was +requested to open it, which he did with great reluctance and some +difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that +it contained a thin bit of flesh, about two inches long, which, to +appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with salt water. It +struck us, that it might be human flesh, and that these people might, +perhaps, eat their enemies, as we knew that this was the practice of +some of the natives of the South Sea islands. The question being put +to the person who produced it, he answered, that the flesh was part +of a man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by him, was then asked, +whether it was their custom to eat those killed in battle? and he +immediately answered in the affirmative. + +There were some intervals of fair weather in the afternoon, and the +wind then inclined to the E. and N.E. but, in the evening, it veered +back again to S.S.E., and the rain also returned, and continued all +night. Very luckily, it was not attended with much wind. We had, +however, prepared for the worst, by dropping the small bower-anchor, +and striking our top-gallant-yards. + +At seven o'clock the next morning, a breeze of wind springing up at +N.E., I took up the anchors, with a view of removing the ship farther +out. The moment that the last anchor was up, the wind veered to the +E., which made it necessary to set all the sail we could, in order to +clear the shore; so that, before we had tolerable sea-room, we were +driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off, with a view +to regain the road; but having very little wind, and a strong current +against us, I found that this was not to be effected. I therefore +dispatched Messrs King and Williamson ashore, with three boats, for +water, and to trade for refreshments. At the same time, I sent an +order to Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see +that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one, +or perhaps a harbour, at the west end of the island, I was the less +anxious about getting back to my former station. But as I had sent +the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as possible, +notwithstanding which, at noon, we were three leagues to leeward. As +we drew near the west end of the island, we found the coast to round +gradually to the N.E., without forming a creek, or cove, to shelter a +vessel from the force of the swell, which rolled in from the N., +and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf, so that all hopes of +finding a harbour here vanished. + +Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we stood +out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very +averse to believe these people to be cannibals, notwithstanding the +suspicious circumstance which had happened the day before, we took +occasion now to make some more enquiries about this. A small wooden +instrument, beset with sharks teeth, had been purchased; and from its +resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New Zealanders, to dissect +the bodies of their enemies, it was suspected to have the same use +here. One of the natives being asked about this, immediately gave the +name of the instrument, and told us, that it was used to cut out the +fleshy part of the belly, when any person was killed. This explained +and confirmed the circumstance above-mentioned, of the person pointing +to his belly. The man, however, from whom we now had this information, +being asked, if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out? denied it +strongly, but, upon the question being repeated, shewed some degree of +fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached it, he made signs, +as he had done before, expressive of the use of the instrument. And an +old man, who sat foremost in the canoe, being then asked whether they +eat the flesh? answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly +at the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact, on being +asked again; and also said, it was excellent food, or, as he expressed +it, "savoury eating."[3] + +[Footnote 3: Of this there can be no doubt, if the assertions of those +who have tried it be entitled to credit. When the reluctance, then, to +use it is once overcome, there is no reason to think it would ever be +abandoned, if it could be safely and conveniently procured. We have +instances of this on record. Some persons necessitated, let us allow, +to have recourse to it, have continued the practice, where the doing +so required the repeated commission of murder. We formerly alluded to +instances of this kind, and we see in the case of the people before +us, that hunger is not the only motive for so abominable a repast. +Admitting even that it were the original one, we should expect the +practice to be relinquished whenever other food was to be had in +sufficient quantity. But this we know by many proofs is not the case; +and perhaps, indeed, it will be found, that this odium is fully as +prevalent in savage countries, where nature has been bountiful, as +in those where a more stinted hand has inflicted poverty on the +inhabitants. The causes, then, and the remedies of this most shocking +enormity, are to be looked for in other circumstances than the +scarcity or the profusion of food. Here we may be allowed to join in +opinion with Dr Robertson. "Human flesh was never used as common +food in any country, and the various relations concerning people +who reckoned it among the stated means of subsistence, flow from the +credulity and mistakes of travellers. The rancour of revenge first +prompted men to this barbarous action." In addition to his opinion and +that of the authors quoted by him, in his History of America, lib. 4, +the reader may advantageously consult Dr Forster's Observations. If +the sentiments maintained by these writers be correct, we may expect +to find cannibalism in almost every country where the spirit of +revenge is not curbed by principle, or directed by the authority of a +well-organized government. Here the evidence of these voyages and +of others which we could mention, must be allowed considerable +importance. There is the strongest reason, indeed, to believe that the +inhabitants of all the South Sea islands are now chargeable with this +inhumanity, or are but recently recovered from its dominion. We +might easily enlarge on this subject, but what has been said, it is +probable, is sufficient to direct the attention of the reader, which +is all we could find, room to do in the narrow compass of a note. +But it is probable, that to most persons, the observations of a late +navigator, Captain Krusenstern, will be admitted as decisive of the +question of fact, without further enquiry. They may have another +effect too, viz. to destroy that delusion which many persons labour +under as to the innocence and amiableness of mankind in a state of +nature. "Notwithstanding," says he, "the favourable account in Captain +Cook's voyages of the Friendly, the Society, and the Sandwich islands, +and the enthusiasm with which Forster undertakes their defence against +all those who should make use of any harsh expression with regard +to them, I cannot refrain from declaring the inhabitants of all the +islands of this ocean to be savages, but as ranking generally, perhaps +with a very trifling exception, with those men who are still one +degree below the brute creation. In a word, they are all cannibals: +We need only recollect the islanders who have already been proved to +belong to this class;--for instance, the New Zealanders, the cruel +inhabitants of Fidji, the Navigateur, the Mendoza, Washington, the +Tolomon, and Sandwich islands, the islands of Louisiade and New +Caledonia. The good name which the inhabitants of the Friendly islands +had acquired has suffered very much by the affair of Captain Bligh, +and the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, and it may now be maintained, with +some degree of certainty, that they have in this respect the same +taste as their neighbours in the Fidji islands, and the Isles des +Navigateurs." He has more to the same effect, and is particular in +shewing how even the Society islanders, whom he admits to be the +most humane and civilized of all the natives of this region, are +notwithstanding deformed with horrid crimes, from which the passage +to cannibalism is very easy, supposing even that certain suspicious +circumstances do not warrant the opinion that they are but recently +emerged from it. And as to the people of New Caledonia, again, of whom +Cook spoke so highly, he alludes to the more recent information of +D'Entrecasteaux, as giving indisputable proof of their being addicted +to the same abominable enormity.--E.] + +At seven o'clock in the evening, the boats returned, with two tons of +water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and some roots. Mr King +informed me, that a great number of the inhabitants were at the +watering or landing place. He supposed that they had come from all +parts of the island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat +hogs to barter, but my people had not commodities with them equal to +the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we had already +got as many on board as we could well manage for immediate use, and, +wanting the materials, we could not have salted them. Mr King also +told me, that a great deal of rain had fallen ashore, whereas, out +at sea, we had only a few showers; and that the surf had run so high, +that it was with great difficulty our men landed, and got back into +the boats. + +We had light airs and calms, by turns, with showers of rain, all +night, and at day-break, in the morning of the 24th, we found that the +currents had carried the ship to the N.W. and N., so that the west end +of the island, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the natives, +bore E., one league distant; another island, called Oreehoua, W. by +S., and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from S.W. by +W. to W.S.W. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at N.; and, as I expected +that this would bring the Discovery to sea, I steered for Oneeheow, +in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there, if I should +find a convenient place. I continued to steer for it, till past eleven +o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from it. But not +seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful whether they could see us, I +was fearful lest some ill consequence might attend our separating +so far. I therefore gave up the design of visiting Oneeheow for the +present, and stood back to Atooi, with an intent to anchor again in +the road, to complete our water. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the +northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable light airs and +calms, that continued till eleven at night, with which we stretched +to the S.E., till day-break in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked +and stood in for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us; and, soon +after, we were joined by the Discovery. + +We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road, +which, though so near, we never could recover, for what we gained at +one time, we lost at another; so that, by the morning of the 29th, the +currents had carried us westward, within three leagues of Oneeheow. +Being tired with plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of +getting back to Atooi, and came to the resolution of trying, whether +we could not procure what we wanted at the other island, which was +within our reach. With this view, I sent the master in a boat, to +sound the coast, to look out for a landing-place, and, if he should +find one, to examine if fresh water could be conveniently got in +its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his commission, we +followed, under an easy sail, with the ships. As soon as we were +abreast, or to the westward of the south point of Oneeheow, we found +thirty, twenty-five, and twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of coral +sand, a mile from the shore. + +At ten o'clock the master returned, and reported that he had landed in +one place, but could find no fresh water; and that there was anchorage +all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward, and +some of the islanders, who had come off to the ships, informing us, +that fresh water might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor +before it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile +from the shore. The S.E. point of the island bore S. 65 deg. E., three +miles distant; the other extreme of the island bore N. by E., about +two or three miles distant; a peaked hill, inland, N.E. 1/4 E.; and +another island, called Tahoora, which was discovered the preceding +evening, bore S. 61 deg. W., distant seven leagues. + +Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing +some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The +people in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally +well acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by +the names of _hamaite_ and _toe_, parting readily with all their +commodities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes +soon reached the ships, after they had anchored; but the natives in +these seemed to have no other object, than to pay us a formal visit. +Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and +not quitting that humble posture, till they were desired to get up. +They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in +the canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of +Atooi; and, at times, all joining in a song, not remarkable for its +melody, though performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon +their breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board did +not stay long; and before they departed, some of them requested our +permission to lay down, on the deck, locks of their hair. + +These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again, +this day, the curious enquiry, whether they were cannibals; and the +subject did not take its rise from any questions of ours, but from +a circumstance that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the +islanders, who wanted to get in at the gun-room port, was refused, and +at the same time asked, whether, if he should come in, we would kill +and eat him? accompanying this question with signs so expressive, that +there could be no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening +to retort the question as to this practice; and a person behind the +other, in the canoe, who paid great attention to what was passing, +immediately answered, that if we were killed on shore, they would +certainly eat us. He spoke with so little emotion, that it appeared +plainly to be his meaning, that they would not destroy us for that +purpose, but that their eating us would be the consequence of our +being at enmity with them. I have availed myself of Mr Anderson's +collections for the decision of this matter, and am sorry to say, +that I cannot see the least reason to hesitate in pronouncing it to +be certain, that the horrid banquet of human flesh is as much relished +here, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand. + +In the afternoon, I sent Lieutenant Gore, with three armed boats, to +look for the most convenient landing-place; and, when on shore, to +search for fresh water. In the evening he returned, having landed +at the village above-mentioned, and acquainted me that he had been +conducted to a well half a mile up the country; but, by his account, +the quantity of water it contained was too inconsiderable for our +purpose, and the road leading to it exceedingly bad. + +On the 30th, I sent Mr Gore ashore again, with a guard of marines, and +a party to trade with the natives for refreshments. I intended to have +followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the +surf had increased so much by this time, that I was fearful, if I got +ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really happened to +our people who had landed with Mr Gore, the communication between them +and the ships, by our own boats, being stopped. In the evening, they +made a signal for the boats, which were sent accordingly; and, not +long after, they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tolerable +quantity of both had been procured in the course of the day; but the +surf was so great, that the greatest part of both these articles had +been lost in conveying them to the boats. The officer and twenty men, +deterred by the danger of coming off, were left ashore all night; and, +by this unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, which, as +I have already mentioned, I wished so heartily to prevent, and vainly +imagined I had effectually guarded against. The violence of the surf, +which our own boats could not act against, did not hinder the +natives from coming off to the ships in their canoes. They brought +refreshments with them, which were purchased in exchange for nails, +and pieces of iron-hoops; and I distributed a good many pieces of +ribbon, and some buttons, as bracelets, amongst the women in the +canoes. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon +his breast, and upon those of others were the figures of men badly +imitated. These visitors informed us, that there was no chief, or +_Hairee_, of this island; but that it was subject to Teneooneoo, a +chief of Atooi; which island, they said, was not governed by a single +chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of +_moe_, or prostration; and, amongst others, they named, Otaeaio and +Terarotoa. Among other things, which these people now brought off, was +a small drum, almost like those of Otaheite. + +About ten or eleven o'clock at night, the wind veered to the S., and +the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With such appearances, thinking +that we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be +taken up, and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came +to again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to +be unnecessary; for the wind, soon after, veered to N.E., from which +quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very heavy +showers of rain. + +This weather continued all the next day; and the sea ran so high, that +we had no manner of communication with our party on shore; and even +the natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their +canoes. In the evening, I sent the master in a boat up to the S.E. +head, or point of the island, to try if he could land under it. He +returned with a favourable report; but it was too late, now, to send +for our party till the next morning; and thus they had another night +to improve their intercourse with the natives. + +Encouraged by the master's report, I sent a boat to the S.E. point, +as soon as day-light returned, with an order to Mr Gore, that, if +he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were, to +march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, +one of the crew swam ashore, and carried the order. On the return of +the boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the point, +to bring the party on board; taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, +a boar and sow-pig of the English breed, and the seeds of melons, +pumpkins, and onions, being very desirous of benefiting these poor +people, by furnishing them with some additional articles of food. I +landed with the greatest ease, under the west side of the point, and +found my party already there, with some of the natives in company. To +one of them, whom Mr Gore had observed assuming some command over +the rest, I gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these +well-intended presents at Atooi, had we not been so unexpectedly +driven from it. + +While the people were engaged in filling four water-casks, from a +small stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked a little way up +the country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two +others carrying the two pigs. As soon as we got upon a rising ground, +I stopped to look round me, and observed a woman, on the opposite side +of the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who attended +me. Upon this, the chief began to mutter something which I supposed +was a prayer; and the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk +round me all the time, making, at least, a dozen circuits before the +other had finished his oration. This ceremony being performed; we +proceeded, and presently met people coming from all parts, who, on +being called to by my attendants, threw themselves prostrate on their +faces, till I was out of sight. The ground, through which I passed, +was in a state of nature, very stony, and the soil seemed poor. It +was, however, covered with shrubs and plants, some of which perfumed +the air, with a more delicious fragrancy than I had met with at any +other of the islands visited by us in this ocean. Our people, who had +been obliged to remain so long on shore, gave me the same account +of those parts of the island which they had traversed. They met with +several salt ponds, some of which had a little water remaining, but +others had none; and the salt that was left in them was so thin, that +no great quantity could have been procured. There was no appearance of +any running stream; and though they found some small wells, in which +the fresh water was tolerably good, it seemed scarce. The habitations +of the natives were thinly scattered about; and it was supposed, that +there could not be more than five hundred people upon the island, as +the greatest part were seen at the marketing-place of our party, and +few found about the houses by those who walked up the country. They +had an opportunity of observing the method of living amongst the +natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did not, +however, see any instance of the men and women eating together; and +the latter seemed generally associated in companies by themselves. It +was found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the _dooe dooe_ for +lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked their hogs +in ovens, but, contrary to the practice of the Society and Friendly +Islands, split the carcases through their whole length. They met +with a positive proof of the existence of the _taboo_ (or, as they +pronounce it, the _tafoo_), for one woman fed another who was +under that interdiction. They also observed some other mysterious +ceremonies; one of which was performed by a woman, who took a small +pig, and threw it into the surf, till it was drowned, and then tied up +a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the same manner. The +same woman, at another time, beat with a stick upon a man's shoulders, +who sat down for that purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be +paid here to owls, which they have very tame; and it was observed to +be a pretty general practice amongst them, to pull out one of their +teeth;[4] for which odd custom, when asked the reason, the only answer +that could be got was, that it was _teeha_, which was also the reason +assigned for another of their practices, the giving a lock of their +hair. + +[Footnote 4: It is very remarkable, that, in this custom, which one +would think is so unnatural, as not to be adopted by two different +tribes, originally unconnected, the people of this island, and +Dampier's natives on the west side of New Holland, at such an immense +distance, should be found to agree.--D.] + +After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and +we had purchased from the natives a few roots, a little salt, and some +salted fish, I returned on board with all the people, intending +to visit the island the next day. But, about seven o'clock in the +evening, the anchor of the Resolution started, and she drove off the +bank. As we had a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor +was at the bows; and then we had the launch to hoist up alongside, +before we could make sail. By this unlucky accident, we found +ourselves, at day-break next morning, three leagues to the leeward of +our last station; and, foreseeing that it would require more time to +recover it than I chose to spend, I made the signal for the Discovery +to weigh and join us. This was done about noon, and we immediately +stood away to the northward, in prosecution of our voyage. Thus, after +spending more time about these islands than was necessary to have +answered all our purposes, we were obliged to leave them before we had +completed our water, and got from them such a quantity of refreshments +as their inhabitants were both able and willing to have supplied +us with. But, as it was, our ship procured from them provisions, +sufficient for three weeks at least; and Captain Clerke, more +fortunate than us, got, of their vegetable productions, a supply that +lasted his people upward of two months. The observations I was enabled +to make, combined with those of Mr Anderson, who was a very useful +assistant on all such occasions, will furnish materials for the next +section. + + +SECTION XII. + +_The Situation of the Islands now discovered.--Their +Names.--Called the Sandwich Islands.--Atooi described.--The +Soil.--Climate.--Vegetable Productions.--Birds.--Fish.--Domestic +Animals.--Persons of the Inhabitants.--Their +Disposition.--Dress.--Ornaments.--Habitations.--Food.--Cookery.-- +Amusements.--Manufactures.--Working-tools.--Knowledge +of Iron accounted for.--Canoes.--Agriculture.--Account of one of +their Chiefs.--Weapons.--Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and +Otaheite.--Their Language the same.--Extent of this Nation throughout +the Pacific Ocean.--Reflections on the useful Situation of the +Sandwich Islands._ + +It is worthy of observation, that the islands in the Pacific Ocean, +which our late voyages have added to the geography of the globe, +have been generally found lying in groups or clusters; the single +intermediate islands, as yet discovered, being few in proportion +to the others; though, probably, there are many more of them still +unknown, which serve as steps between the several clusters. Of what +number this newly-discovered Archipelago consists, must be left for +future investigation. We saw five of them, whose names, as given to +us by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Orrehoua, and Tahoora. +The last is a small elevated island, lying four or five leagues from +the S.E. point of Oneeheow, in the direction of S., 69 deg. W. We were +told, that it abounds with birds, which are its only inhabitants. We +also got some information of the existence of a low uninhabited island +in the neighbourhood, whose name is Tammata pappa. Besides these +six, which we can distinguish by their names, it appeared, that the +inhabitants of those with whom we had intercourse, were acquainted +with some other islands both to the eastward and westward. I named the +whole group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. +Those that I saw, are situated between the latitude of 21 deg. 30', and +22 deg. 15' N., and between the longitude of 199 deg. 20', and 201 deg. 30' E. + +Of Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands, seen by us, which lies +in the latitude of 21 deg. 36', we could get no other intelligence, but +that it is high land, and is inhabited. + +We had opportunities of knowing some particulars about Oneeheow, which +have been mentioned already. It lies seven leagues to the westward +of our anchoring-place at Atooi; and is not above fifteen leagues in +circuit. Its chief vegetable produce is yams, if we may judge from +what was brought to us by the natives. They have salt, which they call +_patai_, and is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure both fish +and pork; and some salt fish, which we got from them, kept very well, +and were found to be very good. This island is mostly low land, except +the part facing Atooi, which rises directly from the sea to a good +height; as does also the S.E. point of it, which terminates in a round +hill. It was on the west side of this point where our ships anchored. + +Of Oreehoua we know nothing more than that it is a small elevated +island, lying close to the north side of Oneeheow. + +Atooi, which is the largest, being the principal scene of our +operations, I shall now proceed to lay before my readers what +information I was able to collect about it, either from actual +observation, while on shore, or from conversation with its +inhabitants, who were perpetually on board the ships while we lay at +anchor; and who, in general, could be tolerably well understood, by +those of us who had acquired an acquaintance with the dialects of the +South Pacific Islands. It is, however, to be regretted, that we should +have been obliged, so soon, to leave a place, which, as far as our +opportunities of knowing reached, seemed to be highly worthy of a more +accurate examination. + +Atooi, from what we saw of it, is, at least, ten leagues in length +from east to west; from whence its circuit may nearly be guessed, +though it appears to be much broader at the east than at the west +point, if we may judge from the double range of hills which appeared +there. The road, or anchoring-place, which we occupied, is on the +south-west side of the island, about six miles from the west end, +before a village which has the name of Wymoa. As far as we sounded, we +found, that the bank has a fine grey sand at the bottom, and is free +from rocks; except a little to the eastward of the village, where +there spits out a shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers; but +they are not far from the shore. This road would be entirely sheltered +from the trade-wind, if the height of the land, over which it blows, +did not alter its direction, and make it follow that of the coast; so +that it blows at N.E., on one side of the island, and at E.S.E., or +S.E., on the other, falling obliquely upon the shore. Thus the road, +though situated on the lee side of the island, is a little exposed to +the trade-wind; but, notwithstanding this defect, is far from being a +bad station, and much superior to those which necessity obliges ships +daily to use, in regions where the winds are both more variable and +more boisterous; as at Teneriffe, Madeira, the Azores, and elsewhere. +The landing too is more easy than at most of those places; and, unless +in very bad weather, always practicable. The water to be got in the +neighbourhood is excellent, and easy to be conveyed to the boats. +But no wood can be cut at any distance, convenient enough to bring it +from, unless the natives could be prevailed upon to part with the few +_etooa_ trees (for so they call the _cordia sebestina_,) that grow +about their villages, or a sort called _dooe dooe_, that grow farther +up the country. + +The land, as to its general appearance, does not, in the least, +resemble any of the islands we have hitherto visited within the +tropic, on the south side of the _equator_; if we except its hills +near the centre, which are high, but slope gently to the sea, or lower +lands. Though it be destitute of the delightful borders of Otaheite, +and of the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which +at once afford a friendly shelter from the scorching sun, and an +enchanting prospect to the eye, and food for the natives, which may +be truly said to drop from the trees into their mouths, without the +laborious task of rearing; though, I say, Atooi be destitute of these +advantages, its possessing a greater quantity of gently-rising land, +renders it, in some measure, superior to the above favourite islands, +as being more capable of improvement. + +The height of the land within, the quantity of clouds which we saw, +during the whole time we staid, hanging over it, and frequently on +the other parts, seems to put it beyond all doubt, that there is a +sufficient supply of water; and that there are some running streams +which we did not see, especially in the deep valleys, at the entrance +of which the villages commonly stand. From the wooded part to the sea, +the ground is covered with an excellent sort of grass, about two feet +high, which grows sometimes in tufts, and, though not very thick +at the place where we were, seemed capable of being converted into +plentiful crops of fine hay. But not even a shrub grows naturally on +this extensive space. + +In the break, or narrow valley, through which we had our road to the +_morai_, the soil is of a brownish black colour, somewhat loose; but +as we advanced upon the high ground, it changed to a reddish brown, +more stiff and clayey, though, at this time, brittle from its dryness. +It is most probably the same all over the cultivated parts; for, what +adhered to most of the potatoes, bought by us, which, no doubt, came +from very different spots, was of this sort. Its quality, however, may +be better understood from its products, than from its appearance. For +the vale, or moist ground, produces _taro_, of a much larger size than +any we had ever seen; and the higher ground furnishes sweet potatoes, +that often weigh ten, and sometimes twelve or fourteen pounds; very +few being under two or three. + +The temperature of the climate may be easily guessed from the +situation of the island. Were we to judge of it from our experience, +it might be said to be very variable; for, according to the generally +received opinion, it was now the season of the year, when the weather +is supposed to be most settled, the sun being at his greatest annual +distance. The heat was at this time very moderate; and few of those +inconveniences, which many tropical countries are subject to, either +from heat or moisture, seem to be experienced here, as the habitations +of the natives are quite close; and they salt both fish and pork, +which keep well, contrary to what has usually been observed to be the +case, when this operation is attempted in hot countries. Neither +did we find any dews of consequence, which may, in some measure, be +accounted for, by the lower part of the country being destitute of +trees. + +The rock that forms the sides of the Valley, and which seems to be +the same with that seen by us at different parts of the coast, is +a greyish black, ponderous stone; but honey-combed, with some +very minute shining particles, and some spots of a rusty colour +interspersed. The last gives it often a reddish cast, when at a +distance. It is of an immense depth, but seems divided into _strata_, +though nothing is interposed. For the large pieces always broke off +to a determinate thickness, without appearing to have adhered to those +below them. Other stones are probably much more various, than in +the southern islands. For, during our short stay, besides the _lapis +lydius_, which seems common all over the South Sea, we found a species +of cream-coloured whetstone, sometimes variegated with blacker or +whiter veins, as marble; or in pieces, as _brecciae_; and common +writing slate, as well as a coarser sort; but we saw none of them in +their natural state; and the natives brought some pieces of a coarse +whitish pumice-stone. We got also a brown sort of _haematites_, which, +from being strongly attracted by the magnet, discovered the quantity +of metal that it contained, and seems to belong to the second +species of Cronstedt, though Linnaeus has placed it amongst his +_intractabilia_. But its variety could not be discovered; for what we +saw of it, as well as the slates and whetstones, was cut artificially. + +Besides the vegetable articles bought by us as refreshments, amongst +which were, at least, five or six varieties of plantains, the island +produces bread-fruit; though it seems to be scarce, as we saw only one +tree, which was large, and had some fruit upon it. There are also a +few cocoa-palms; yams, as we were told, for we saw none; the _kappe_ +of the Friendly Islands, or Virginian _arum_; the _etooa_ tree, and +sweet-smelling _gardenia_, or _cape jasmine_. We saw several trees +of the _dooe dooe_, so useful at Otaheite, as bearing the oily nuts, +which are stuck upon a kind of skewer, and burnt as candles. Our +people saw them used, in the same manner, at Oneeheow. We were not +on shore at Atooi but in the day-time, and then we saw the natives +wearing these nuts, hung on strings, round the neck. There is a +species of _sida_, or Indian mallow, somewhat altered, by the climate, +from what we saw at Christmas Island; the _morinda citrifolia_, +which is called _none_; a species of _convolvulus_; the _ava_, or +intoxicating pepper; and great numbers of gourds. These last grow to +a very large size, and are of a vast variety of shapes, which probably +is effected by art. Upon the dry sand, about the village, grew a +plant, that we had never seen in these seas, of the size of a common +thistle, and prickly, like that; but bearing a fine flower, almost +resembling a white poppy. This, with another small one, were the only +uncommon plants, which our short excursion gave us an opportunity of +observing. + +The scarlet birds, already described, which were brought for sale, +were never met with alive; but we saw a single small one, about the +size of a canary-bird, of a deep crimson colour; a large owl; two +large brown hawks, or kites; and a wild duck. The natives mentioned +the names of several other birds; amongst which we knew the _otoo_, or +blueish heron; and the _torata_, a sort of whimbrel, which are known +by the same names at Otaheite; and it is probable, that there are a +great many sorts, judging by the quantity of fine yellow, green, and +very small, velvet-like, black feathers used upon the cloaks, and +other ornaments worn by the inhabitants. + +Fish and other marine productions were, to appearance, not various; +as, besides the small mackarel, we only saw common mullets; a sort of +a dead white, or chalky colour; a small brownish rock-fish, spotted +with blue; a turtle, which was penned up in a pond; and three or four +sorts of fish salted. The few shell-fish that we saw, were chiefly +converted into ornaments, though they neither had beauty nor novelty +to recommend them. + +The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic +animals that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with +at the South Pacific Islands. There were also small lizards, and some +rats, resembling those seen at every island at which we had, as yet, +touched. + +The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some +exceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking +features, which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a +keen intelligent disposition. Their visage, especially amongst the +women, is sometimes round; but others have it long; nor can we say +that they are distinguished as a nation, by any general cast of +countenance. Their colour is nearly of a nut-brown; and. it may be +difficult to make a nearer comparison, if we take in all the different +hues of that colour; but some individuals are darker. The women have +been already mentioned as being little more delicate than the men in +their formation; and I may say, that, with a very few exceptions, they +have little claim to those peculiarities that distinguish the sex in +other countries. There is, indeed, a more remarkable equality in the +size, colour, and figure of both sexes, than in most places I have +visited. However, upon the whole, they are far from being ugly, and +appear to have few natural deformities of any kind. Their skin is not +very soft, nor shining; perhaps for want of oiling, which is practised +at the southern islands; but their eyes and teeth are, in general, +very tolerable. The hair, for the greatest part is straight, though in +some frizzling; and though its natural colour be commonly black, it +is stained, as at the Friendly and other islands. We saw but few +instances of corpulence; and these oftener amongst the women than the +men; but it was chiefly amongst the latter that personal defects were +observed, though, if any of them can claim a share of beauty, it was +most conspicuous amongst the young men. + +They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers; leaving their +canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving under them, and +swimming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to +see women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high, +that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without +endangering their little ones, swim to the shore, through a sea that +looked dreadful. + +They seem to be blest with a frank cheerful disposition; and were I to +draw any comparisons, should say, that they are equally free from the +fickle levity which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the +sedate east observable amongst many of those of Tongataboo. They seem +to live very sociably in their intercourse with one another; and, +except the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in most of the +people we have visited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly +to us. And it does their sensibility no little credit, without +flattering ourselves, that when they saw the various articles of our +European manufacture, they could not help expressing their surprise, +by a mixture of joy and concern, that seemed to apply the case as a +lesson of humility to themselves; and, on all occasions, they appeared +deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; a +behaviour which equally exempts their national character from the +preposterous pride of the more polished Japanese, and of the ruder +Greenlander. It was a pleasure to observe with how much affection +the women managed their infants, and how readily the men lent their +assistance to such a tender office; thus sufficiently distinguishing +themselves from those savages, who esteem a wife and child as things +rather necessary, than desirable or worthy of their notice. + +From the numbers which we saw collected at every village, as we sailed +past, it may be supposed, that the inhabitants of this island +are pretty numerous. Any computation, that we make, can be only +conjectural. But, that some notion may be formed, which shall not +greatly err on either side, I would suppose, that, including the +straggling houses, there might be, upon the whole island, sixty such, +villages, as that before which we anchored; and that, allowing five +persons to each house, there would be, in every village, five hundred; +or thirty thousand upon the island. This number is certainly not +exaggerated; for we had sometimes three thousand persons at least upon +the beach; when it could not be supposed that above a tenth part of +the inhabitants were present. + +The common dress both of the women and of the men has been already +described. The first have often much larger pieces of cloth wrapped +round them, reaching from just below the breasts to the hams or lower; +and several were seen with pieces thrown loosely about the shoulders, +which covered the greatest part of the body; but the children when +very young are quite naked. They wear nothing upon the head; but the +hair in both sexes is cut in different forms; and the general fashion, +especially among the women, is to have it long before and short +behind. The men often had it cut or shaved on each side, in such a +manner, that the remaining part, in some measure, resembles the crest +of their caps or helmets formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem +very careless about their hair, and have nothing like combs to dress +it with. Instances of wearing it in a singular manner were sometimes +met with among the men, who twist it into a number of separate +parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a +finger; though the greatest part of these, which are so long that they +reach far down the back, we observed were artificially fixed upon the +head over their own hair.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The print of Horn Island, which we meet with in Mr +Dalrymple's account of Le Maire and Schouten's voyage, represents some +of the natives of that island with such long tails hanging from their +heads as are here described. See Dalrymple's Voyages to the South +Pacific, vol. ii. p. 58.--D] + +It is remarkable, that, contrary to the general practice of the +islands we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of +the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated; nor have they +the least idea of wearing ornaments in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, +adorn themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, +like our hat-string, often above a hundred-fold; exactly like those +of Wateeoo; only that instead of the two little balls on the middle +before, they fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, about two +inches long, with a broad hook turning forward at its lower part well +polished. They have likewise necklaces of many strings of very small +shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And sometimes a +small human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, +is hung round the neck. The women also wear bracelets of a single +shell, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed and well +polished, fixed by a string drawn very closely through them; or others +of hogs' teeth laid parallel to each other, with the concave part +outward, and the points cut off, fastened together as the former; some +of which made only of large boars' tusks are very elegant. The men +sometimes wear plumes of the tropic-bird's feathers stuck in their +heads; or those of cocks, fastened round neat polished sticks two feet +long, commonly decorated at the lower part with _oora_; and for the +same purpose, the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick +with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the head a +kind of ornament of a finger's thickness or more, covered with red +and yellow feathers curiously varied and tied behind; and on the arm, +above the elbow, a kind of broad shell-work, grounded upon net-work. + +The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particular part, +as the Otaheiteans and those of Tongataboo. Sometimes there are a few +marks upon their hands or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we +could observe none at all; though a few individuals had more of +this sort of ornament, than we had usually seen at other places, and +ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines and figures on the +arms and fore-part of the body; on which latter, some of them had the +figure of the _taame_, or breast-plate of Otaheite, though we did not +meet with the thing itself amongst them. Contrary to the custom of the +Society and Friendly Islands, they do not slit or cut off part of the +_prepuce_; but have it universally drawn over the _glans_, and tied +with a string as practised by some of the natives of New Zealand. + +Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, there +is no appearance of defence or fortification near any of them; and the +houses are scattered about without any order, either with respect to +their distances from each other, or their position in any particular +direction. Neither is there any proportion as to their size; some +being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty +or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their figure is +not unlike oblong corn or hay-stacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may +be conceived of them, if we suppose the roof of a barn placed on the +ground, in such a manner as to form a high, acute ridge, with two +very low sides hardly discernible at a distance. The gable at each end +corresponding to the sides, makes these habitations perfectly close +all round; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid +on slender poles disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made +indifferently in the end or side, and is an oblong hole, so low, that +one must rather creep than walk in; and is often shut up by a board +of planks fastened together, which serves as a door, but having no +hinges, must be removed occasionally. No light enters the house but +by this opening; and though such close habitations may afford a +comfortable retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill adapted to the +warmth of the climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean; and +their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried grass, over +which they spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind +of bench about three feet high, on which their household utensils are +placed. The catalogue is not long. It consists of gourd-shells, which +they convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as +baskets to contain their victuals, and other things with covers of +the same; and of a few wooden bowls and trenchers of different sizes. +Judging from what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, +there can be no doubt, that the greatest part of their vegetable +food consists of sweet potatoes, _taro_, and plantains; and that +bread-fruit and yams are rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal +food they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run +without restraint about the houses; and if they eat dogs, which is not +improbable, their stock of these seemed to be very considerable. The +great number of fishing-hooks found amongst them, shewed that they +derive no inconsiderable supply of animal food from the sea. But it +should seem, from their practice of salting fish, that the openness of +their coast often interrupts the business of catching them; as it +may be naturally supposed, that no set of people would ever think of +preserving quantities of food artificially, if they could depend +upon a daily regular supply of it in its fresh state. This sort of +reasoning, however, will not account for their custom of salting their +pork, as well as their fish, which are preserved in gourd-shells. The +salt, of which they use a great quantity for this purpose, is of a red +colour, not very coarse, and seems to be much the same with what our +stragglers found at Christmas Island. It has its colour doubtless from +a mixture of the mud at the bottom of the part where it is formed; for +some of it that had adhered in lumps, was of a sufficient whiteness +and purity. + +They bake their vegetable food with heated stones, as at the southern +islands; and from the vast quantity, which we saw dressed at one time, +we suspected that the whole village, or, at least, a considerable +number of people joined in the use of a common oven. We did not see +them dress any animal food at this island; but Mr Gore's party, as +already mentioned, had an opportunity of satisfying themselves, that +it was dressed at Oneeheow in the same sort of ovens, which leaves no +doubt of this being also the practice in Atooi; especially as we met +with no utensil there that could be applied to the purpose of stewing +or boiling. The only artificial dish we met with was a _taro_ pudding, +which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was greedily +devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates or +trenchers; and the women, as far as we could judge from one instance, +if restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as at +Otaheite, are at least permitted to eat in the same place near them. + +Their amusements seem pretty various; for during our short +stay, several were discovered. The dances at which they used the +feathered-cloaks and caps were not seen; but from the motions which +they made with their hands on other occasions, when they sung, we +could form some judgment that they are, in some degree at least, +similar to those we had met with at the southern islands, though not +executed so skilfully. Neither had they amongst them either flutes or +reeds, and the only two musical instruments which we observed were +of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them does not produce a melody +exceeding that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be called +a conic cap inverted, but scarcely hollowed at the base above a foot +high, made of a coarse sedge-like plant, the upper part of which, +and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful red feathers, and to the +point, or lower part, is fixed a gourd-shell larger than the fist. +Into this is put something to rattle, which is done by holding the +instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving it from +place to place briskly, either to different sides or backward and +forward just before the face, striking the breast with the other hand +at the same time. The other musical instrument (if either of them +deserve that name) was a hollow vessel of wood, like a platter, +combined with the use of two sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw +a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as +we do a fiddle with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was +smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slower measure; +at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow vessel that +lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune that was by +no means disagreeable. This music was accompanied by the vocal +performance of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender +effect. + +We observed great numbers of small polished rods, about four or five +feet long, somewhat thicker than the rammer of a musket, with a tuft +of long white dog's hair fixed on the small end. These are probably +used in their diversions. We saw a person take one of them in his +hand, and holding it up, give a smart stroke, till he brought it into +an horizontal position, striking with the foot on the same side upon +the ground, and with his other hand beating his breast at the same +time. They play at bowls with pieces of whetstone mentioned before, of +about a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded +at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polished; and they have +other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy reddish, brown clay, +neatly glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a +coarse dark-grey slate. They also use, in the manner that we throw +quoits, small flat rounded pieces of the writing slate of the diameter +of the bowls, but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well +polished. From these circumstances, one would be induced to think that +their games are rather trials of skill than of strength. + +In every thing manufactured by these people, there appears to be an +uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their cloth, which is +the principal manufacture, is made from the _morus papyrifera_; and +doubtless in the same manner as at Otaheite and Tongataboo; for +we bought some of the grooved sticks with which it is beaten. Its +texture, however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the +cloth of either of the other places; but in colouring or staining it, +the people of Atooi display a superiority of taste, by the endless +variation of figures which they execute. One would suppose, on seeing +a number of their pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from +some mercer's shop, in which the most elegant productions of China +and Europe are collected; besides some original patterns of their own. +Their colours, indeed, except the red, are not very bright; but the +regularity of the figures and stripes is truly surprising; for, as +far as we know, they have nothing like stamps or prints, to make the +impressions. In what manner they produce their colours, we had not +opportunities of learning; but, besides the party coloured sorts, they +have some pieces of plain white cloth, and others of a single colour, +particularly dark-brown and light-blue. In general, the pieces which +they brought to us were about two feet broad, and four or five yards +long, being the form and quantity that they use for their common dress +or _maro_; and even these we sometimes found were composed of pieces +sewed together; an art which we did not find to the southward, but +is strongly, though not very neatly, performed here. There is also a +particular sort that is thin, much resembling oil-cloth; and which is +actually either oiled or soaked in some kind of varnish, and seems to +resist the action of water pretty well. + +They fabricate a great many white mats, which are strong, with many +red stripes, rhombuses, and other figures, interwoven on one side; +and often pretty large. These probably make a part of their dress +occasionally; for they put them on their backs when they offered them +to sale. But they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they +spread over their floors to sleep upon. + +They stain their gourd-shells prettily with undulated lines, +triangles, and other figures of a black colour; instances of which +we saw practised at New Zealand. And they seem to possess the art of +varnishing; for some of these stained gourd-shells are covered with +a kind of lacker; and, on other occasions, they use a strong size, or +gluey substance, to fasten their things together. Their wooden +dishes and, bowls, out of which they drink their _ova_, are of the +_etooa_-tree, or _cordia_, as neat as if made in our turning-lathe, +and perhaps better polished. And amongst their articles of handicraft, +may be reckoned small square fans of mat or wicker-work, with handles +tapering from them of the same, or of wood; which are neatly wrought +with small cords of hair, and fibres of the cocoa-nut coir intermixed. +The great variety of fishing-hooks are ingeniously made; some of bone, +others of wood pointed with bone, and many of pearl shell. Of the +last, some are like a sort that we saw at Tongataboo; and others +simply curved, as the common sort at Otaheite, as well as the wooden +ones. The bones are mostly small, and composed of two pieces; and all +the different sorts have a barb, either on the inside, like ours, +or on the outside, opposite the same part; but others have both, the +outer one being farthest from the point. Of this last sort, one was +procured nine inches long, of a single piece of bone, which doubtless +belonged to some large fish. The elegant form and polish of this could +not certainly be outdone by any European artist, even if he should +add all his knowledge in design to the number and convenience of +his tools. They polish their stones by constant friction, with +pumice-stone in water; and such of their working instruments, or +tools, as I saw, resembled those of the Southern Islands. Their +hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly of the same pattern, and +either made of the same sort of blackish stone, or of a clay-coloured +one. They have also little instruments, made of a single shark's +tooth, some of which are fixed to the fore-part of a dog's jawbone, +and others to a thin wooden handle of the same shape; and at the other +end there is a bit of string fastened through a small perforation. +These serve as knives occasionally, and are perhaps used in carving. + +The only iron tools, or rather bits of iron, seen amongst them, and +which they had before our arrival, were a piece of iron hoop, +about two inches long, fitted into a wooden handle;[2] and another +edge-tool, which our people guessed to be made of the point of a +broad-sword. Their having the actual possession of these, and their +so generally knowing the use of this metal, inclined some on board +to think that we had not been the first European visitors of these +islands. But it seems to me, that the very great surprise expressed +by them on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance of the use of +fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with such a notion. There are many +ways by which such people may get pieces of iron, or acquire the +knowledge of the existence of such a metal, without having ever had +an immediate connection with nations that use it. It can hardly be +doubted, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of this sea, +before Magalhaens led the way into it; for no discoverer, immediately +after his voyage, ever found any of this metal in their possession; +though, in the course of our late voyages, it has been observed, +that the use of it was known at several islands, to which no former +European ships had ever, as far as we know, found their way. At all +the places where Mendana touched in his two voyages, it must have been +seen and left; and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt, to +all the various islands with which those whom he had visited had any +immediate intercourse. It might even be carried farther; and +where specimens of this favourite article could not be procured, +descriptions might, in some measure, serve to make it known when +afterward seen. The next voyage to the southward of the Line, in which +any intercourse was had with the natives of this ocean, was that of +Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the Island of Handsome People, and +at Tierra del Espiritu Santo; at all which places, and at those with +whom they had any communication, it must of consequence have been made +known. To him succeeded, in this navigation, Le Maire and Schouten, +whose connections with the natives commenced much farther to the +eastward, and ended at Cocos and Horn Islands. It was not surprising, +that when I visited Tongataboo, in 1773, I should find a bit of iron +there, as we knew that Tasman had visited it before me; but let +us suppose, that he had never discovered the Friendly Islands, our +finding iron, amongst them would have occasioned much speculation; +though we have mentioned before the method by which they had gained +a renewal of their knowledge of this metal, which confirms my +hypothesis. For Neeootaboo taboo, or Boscawen's Island, where Captain +Wallis's ships left it, and from whence Poulaho received it, lies +some degrees to the north-west of Tongataboo. It is well known, that +Roggewein lost one of his ships on the Pernicious Islands; which, from +their situation, are probably not unknown to, though not frequently +visited by, the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Islands. It is +equally certain, that these last people had a knowledge of iron, and +purchased it with the greatest avidity, when Captain Wallis discovered +Otaheite; and this knowledge could only have been acquired through +the medium of those neighbouring islands where it had been originally +left. Indeed, they acknowledge that this was actually the case; and +they have told us since, that they held it in such estimation before +Captain Wallis's arrival, that a chief of Otaheite, who had got two +nails into his possession, received no small emolument, by letting out +the use of these to his neighbours for the purpose of boring holes, +when their own methods failed, or were thought too tedious.[3] The +men of the Society Islands whom we found at Wateeoo, had been driven +thither, long after the knowledge and use of iron had thus been +introduced amongst their countrymen; and though probably they had +no specimen of it with them, they would naturally, and with ease, +communicate at that island their knowledge of this valuable material +by description. From the people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey's +Island might derive that desire to possess some of it, of which we had +proofs during our short intercourse with them. + +[Footnote 2: Captain King, we are told, purchased this, and had it in +his possession at the time of publishing this account.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: A similar instance of profitable revenue, drawn from the +use of nails by the chiefs of the Caroline Islands, is mentioned by +Father Cantova: "Si, par hazard, un vaisseau etranger laisse dans +leurs Isles quelques vieux morceaux de fer, ils appartiennent de +droit aux Tamoles, qui en font faire des outils, le mieux qu'il +est possible. Ces outils sent un fond le Tamole tire un revenu +considerable, car il les donne a louage, et ce louage se paye assez +chere."--P. 314.] + +The consideration of these facts sufficiently explains, how the +knowledge of iron has been conveyed throughout this ocean to islands +which never have had an immediate intercourse with Europeans; and it +may easily be conceived, that wherever the history of it only has been +reported, or a very small quantity of it has been left, the greater +eagerness will be shewn by the natives to get copious supplies of +it. The application of these particulars to the instance now under +consideration, is obvious. The people of Atooi and Oneeheow, without +having ever been visited by Europeans before us, might have received +it from intermediate islands lying between them and the Ladrones, +which have been frequented by the Spaniards almost ever since the date +of Magalhaens's voyage. Or if the distant western situation of the +Ladrones should render this solution less probable, is there not the +extensive continent of America to windward, where the Spaniards have +been settled for more than two hundred years; during which long period +of time, shipwrecks must have frequently happened on its coasts? +It cannot be thought at all extraordinary, that part of such wrecks +containing iron, should, by the easterly trade wind, be, from time to +time, cast upon islands scattered about this vast ocean. The distance +of Atooi from America is no argument against this supposition. But +even if it were, it would not destroy it. This ocean is traversed +every year by Spanish ships; and it is obvious, that, besides the +accident of losing a mast and its appendages, casks with iron hoops, +and many other things containing iron, may be thrown or may fall +overboard during so long a passage, and thus find their way to land. +But these are not mere conjectures and possibilities; for one of my +people actually did see some wood in one of the houses at Wymoa, which +he judged to be fir. It was worm-eaten, and the natives gave him to +understand, that it had been driven ashore by the waves of the +sea; and we had their own express testimony, that they had got the +inconsiderable specimens of iron, found amongst them, from some place +to the eastward. + +From this digression (if it can be called so) I return to the +observations made during our stay at Atooi; and some account must now +be given of their canoes. These, in general, are about twenty-four +feet long, and have the bottom, for the most part, formed of a single +piece or log of wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch, or an +inch and a half, and brought to a point at each end. The sides consist +of three boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly fitted and +lashed to the bottom part. The extremities, both at head and stern, +are a little raised, and both are made sharp, somewhat like a wedge; +but they flatten more abruptly; so that the two sideboards join each +other side by side, for more than a foot. As they are not more than +fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go single (for they +sometimes join them as at the other islands) have outriggers, which +are shaped and fitted with more judgment than any I had before seen. +They are rowed by paddles, such as we had generally met with; and +some of them have a light triangular sail, like those of the Friendly +Islands, extending to a mast and boom. The ropes used for their boats, +and the smaller cords for their fishing-tackle, are strong and well +made. + +What we saw of their agriculture, furnished sufficient proofs that +they are not novices in that art. The vale ground has already been +mentioned as one continued plantation of _taro_, and a few other +things, which have all the appearance of being well attended to. The +potatoe fields, and spots of sugar-cane, or plantains on the higher +grounds, are planted with the same regularity; and always in some +determinate figure, generally as a square or oblong; but neither +these, nor the others, are enclosed with any kind of fence, unless +we reckon the ditches in the low grounds such, which, it is more +probable, are intended to convey water to the _taro_. The great +quantity and goodness of these articles may also, perhaps, be as much +attributed to skilful culture as to natural fertility of soil, which +seems better adapted to them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees; +the few which we saw of these latter not being in a thriving state, +which will sufficiently account for the preference given to the +culture of the other articles, though more labour be required to +produce them. But, notwithstanding this skill in agriculture, the +general appearance of the island shewed, that it was capable of much +more extensive improvement, and of maintaining, at least, three times +the number of the inhabitants that are at present upon it; for the far +greater part of it, that now lies quite waste, seemed to be as good a +soil as those parts of it that are in cultivation. We must therefore +conclude, that these people, from some cause, which we were not long +enough amongst them to be able to trace, do not increase in that +proportion, which would make it necessary to avail themselves of +the extent of their island, toward raising a greater quantity of its +vegetable productions for their subsistence. + +Though I did not see a chief of any note, there were however several, +as the natives informed us, who reside upon Atooi, and to whom they +prostrate themselves as a mark of submission; which seems equivalent +to the _moe_, _moea_, paid to the chiefs of the Friendly Islands, and +is called here _hamoea_, or _moe_. Whether they were at first afraid +to shew themselves, or happened to be absent, I cannot say; but, after +I had left the island, one of these great men made his appearance, and +paid a visit to Captain Clerke, on board the Discovery. He came off +in a double canoe; and, like the king of the Friendly Islands, paid +no regard to the small canoes that happened to lie in his way, but +ran against, or over them, without endeavouring in the least to avoid +them. And it was not possible for these poor people to avoid him, for +they could not manage their canoes; it being a necessary mark of +their submission that they should lie down till he had passed. His +attendants helped him into the ship, and placed him on the gangway. +Their care of him did not cease then; for they stood round him, +holding each other by the hands; nor would they suffer any one to come +near him but Captain Clerke himself. He was a young man, clothed from +head to foot, and accompanied by a young woman, supposed to be his +wife. His name was said to be Tamahano. Captain Clerke made him some +suitable presents; and received from him, in return, a large bowl, +supported by two figures of men, the carving of which, both as to the +design and execution, shewed some degree of skill. This bowl, as our +people were told, used to be filled with the _kava_ or _ava_, (as it +is called at Otaheite), which liquor they prepare and drink here as at +the other islands in this ocean. Captain Clerke could not prevail +upon this great man to go below, nor to move from the place where his +attendants had first fixed him. After staying some time in the ship, +he was carried again into his canoe, and returned to the island, +receiving the same honours from all the natives as when he came on +board. The next day several messages were sent to Captain Clerke, +inviting him to return the visit ashore, and acquainting him that +the chief had prepared a large present on that occasion. But, being +anxious to get to sea, and join the Resolution, the Captain did not +think it advisable to accept of the invitation. + +The very short and imperfect intercourse which we had with the +natives, put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the +mode of government established amongst them; but, from the general +resemblance of customs, and particularly from what we observed of the +honours paid to their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe, that +it is of the same nature with that which prevails throughout all +the islands we had hitherto visited; and probably their wars amongst +themselves are equally frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred from +the number of weapons which we found them possessed of, and from, the +excellent order these were kept in. But we had direct proof of the +fact from their own confession; and, as we understood, these wars +are between the different districts of their own island, as well as +between it and their neighbours of Oneeheow and Orrehoua, we need +scarcely assign any other cause besides this to account for the +appearance already mentioned, of their population bearing no +proportion to the extent of their ground capable of cultivation. + +Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chesnut-coloured +wood, beautifully polished, some of which are barbed at one end, and +flattened to a point at the other, they have a sort of weapon which we +had never seen before, and not mentioned by any navigator, as used by +the natives of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general +about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or both ends, and +secured to the hand by a string. Its use is to stab in close fight; +and it seems well adapted to the purpose. Some of these may be called +double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are +better enabled to strike different ways. They have also bows and +arrows; but, both from their apparent scarcity and their slender make, +it may almost be presumed that they never use them in battle. The +knife or saw, formerly mentioned, with which they dissect the dead +bodies, may also be ranked amongst their weapons, as they both strike +and cut with it when closely engaged. It is a small flat wooden +instrument, of an oblong shape, about a foot long, rounded at the +corners, with a handle almost like one sort of the _patoos_ of New +Zealand; but its edges are entirely surrounded with sharks' teeth, +strongly fixed to it, and pointing outward; having commonly a hole +in the handle, through which passes a long string, which is wrapped +several times round the wrist. We also suspected that they use slings +on some occasions; for we got some pieces of the _haematites_, +or blood-stone, artificially made of an oval shape, divided +longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. +To this the person, who had one of them, applied a cord of no great +thickness, but would not part with it, though he had no objection +to part with the stone, which must prove fatal, when thrown with any +force, as it weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of +whetstone, well polished, but somewhat pointed toward each end, nearly +resembling in shape some stones which we had seen at New Caledonia in +1774, and used there in their slings. + +What we could learn of their religions institutions, and the manner of +disposing of their dead, which may properly be considered as closely +connected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more strongly +points out the affinity between the manners of these people and of +the Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some other +circumstances to place this in a strong point of view, and at the same +time to shew how a few of the infinite modifications, of which a few +leading principles are capable, may distinguish any particular nation. +The people of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent manner, +and they also inter their human sacrifices; but they do not offer, or +expose any other animal, or even vegetable, to their gods, as far as +we know. Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to +waste by time and putrefaction, though the bones are afterward buried; +and as this is the case, it is very remarkable that they should inter +the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer other +animals and vegetables to their gods; but are by no means attentive to +the state of the sacred places where those solemn rites are performed; +most of their _morais_ being in a ruinous condition, and bearing +evident marks of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their +common dead and human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo; but they resemble +those of Otaheite in the slovenly state of their religious places, and +in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. + +The _taboo_ also prevails in Atooi in its full extent, and seemingly +with much more rigour than even at Tongataboo. For the people here +always asked, with great eagerness and signs of fear to offend, +whether any particular thing, which they desired to see, or we were +unwilling to shew, was _taboo_, or, as they pronounced the word, +_tafoo_? The _maia_, _ruae_, or forbidden articles at the Society +Islands, though doubtless the same thing, did not seem to be so +strictly observed by them, except with respect to the dead, about whom +we thought them more superstitious than any of the others were. But +these are circumstances with which we are not as yet sufficiently +acquainted to be decisive about; and I shall only just observe, to +shew the similitude in other matters connected with religion, that the +priests, or _tahounas_, here, are as numerous as at the other islands; +if we may judge, from our being able, during our short stay, to +distinguish several saying their _poore_ or prayer. + +But whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general manners of +the people of Atooi to those of Otaheite, these, of course, were less +striking than the coincidence of language, indeed, the languages of +both places may be said to be almost, word for word, the same. It is +true, that we sometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced +exactly as we had found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands; but, +though all the four dialects are indisputably the same, these people, +in general, have neither the strong guttural pronunciation of the +former, nor a less degree of it, which also distinguishes the latter; +and they have not only adopted the soft mode of the Otaheitans, in +avoiding harsh sounds, but the whole idiom of their language; using +not only the same affixes and suffixes to their words, but the same +measure and cadence in their songs; though, in a manner, somewhat less +agreeable. There seems, indeed, at first hearing, some disagreement to +the ear of a stranger; but it ought to be considered, that the people +of Otaheite, from their frequent connections with the English, +had learnt it, in some measure, to adapt themselves to our scanty +knowledge of their language, by using not only the most common, but +even corrupted expressions, in conversation with us; whereas, when +they conversed among themselves, and used the several parts necessary +to propriety of speech, they were scarcely at all understood by those +amongst us, who had made the greatest proficiency in their vocabulary. +A catalogue of words was collected at Atooi by Mr Anderson, who +lost no opportunity of making our voyage useful to those who amuse +themselves in tracing the migrations of the various tribes or families +that have peopled the globe, by the most convincing of all arguments, +that drawn from affinity of language. + +How shall we account for this nation's having spread itself, in so +many detached islands, so widely disjoined from each other, in every +quarter of the Pacific Ocean! We find it, from New Zealand, in the +south, as far as the Sandwich Islands to the north! And, in another +direction, from Easter Island to the Hebrides! that is, over an extent +of sixty degrees of latitude, or twelve hundred leagues, north and +south! and eighty-three degrees of longitude, or sixteen hundred and +sixty leagues east and west! How much farther, in either direction, +its colonies reach is not known; but what we know already, in +consequence of this and our former voyage, warrants us in pronouncing +it to be, though perhaps not the most numerous, certainly, by far, the +most extensive nation upon the earth.[4] + +[Footnote 4: See more about the great extent of the colonies of this +nation in the Introductory Preface.] + +Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at an early period by the +Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage +of so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi, or some other +of the islands, as a refreshing place to the ships that sail annually +from Acapulco for Manilla. They lie almost midway between the first +place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only +port in traversing this vast ocean; and it would not have been a +week's sail out of their common route to have touched at them; which +could have been done without running the least hazard of losing the +passage, as they are sufficiently within the verge of the easterly +trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been +equally favourable to our Buccaneers, who used sometimes to pass from +the coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of food and water +scarcely sufficient to preserve life. Here they might always have +found plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the very +part of California, which the Manilla ship is obliged to make, or else +have returned to the coast of America, thoroughly refitted, after an +absence of two months. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what +hardships would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a +group of islands half way between America and Tinian, where all his +wants could have been effectually supplied; and in describing which, +the elegant historian of that voyage would have presented his reader +with a more agreeable picture than I have been able to draw in this +chapter![5] + +[Footnote 5: We defer considering the curious subject of the identity +and origin of the people that inhabit the South Sea, till other +relations shall have put the reader in possession of the facts +requisite for the discussion. Of the Sandwich Islands, we shall +hereafter probably have mere complete information than is now +given.--E.] + + +SECTION XIII. + +_Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the Longitude, +Variation of the Compass and Tides.--Prosecution of the +Voyage.--Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as +the Latitude 44 deg. North.--Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern +Hemisphere.--Small Sea Animals described.--Arrival on the Coast +of America.--Appearance of the Country.--Unfavourable Winds and +boisterous Weather.--Remarks on Martin de Aguilar's River, and Juan +de Fuca's pretended Strait.--An Inlet discovered, where the Ships +anchor.--Behaviour of the Natives._ + +After the Discovery had joined us, we stood away to the northward, +close hauled, with a gentle gale from the east; and nothing occurring, +in this situation, worthy of a place in my narrative, the reader +will permit me to insert here the nautical observations which I had +opportunities of making relative to the islands we had left; and which +we had been fortunate enough to add to the geography of this part of +the Pacific Ocean. + +The longitude of the Sandwich Islands was determined by seventy-two +sets of lunar observations; some of which were made while we were at +anchor in the road of Wymoa; others before we arrived, and after we +left it, and reduced to it by the watch or time-keeper. By the mean +result of these observations, the longitude of the road is + + 200 deg. 13' 0" East. + Time-keeper / Greenwich rate, 200 deg. 0' 0" + \ Ulietea rate, 200 deg. 21' 0" + The latitude of the road, by the \ + mean of two meridian observations } 21 deg. 56' 15" North. + of the sun / + +The observations for the variation of the compass did not agree very +well among themselves. It is true, they were not all made exactly +in the same spot. The different situations, however, could make very +little difference. But the whole will be seen, by casting an eye on +the following table. + + Time. Latitude. Longitude. Compass. East Mean + variation. Variation. + Jan. 18th. A.M. 21 deg. 12' 200 deg. 41' Gregory's 10 deg. 10' 10"\ + Knight's 9 deg. 20' 5" } 90 deg. 51' 38" + Martin's 10 deg. 4' 40"/ + + 19th. P.M. 21 deg. 51' 200 deg. 20' Knight's 10 deg. 2' 10"\ 10 deg. 37' 10" + Gregory's 11 deg. 12' 30"/ + + 28th. A.M. 21 deg. 22' 199 deg. 56' Gregory's 9 deg. 1' 20"\ + Knight's 9 deg. 1' 25" } 9 deg. 26' 57" + Martin's 10 deg. 18' 5"/ + + 28th. P.M. 21 deg. 36' 199 deg. 50' Gregory's 11 deg. 21' 15"\ + Knight's 10 deg. 40' 0" } 11 deg. 12' 50" + Martin's 11 deg. 37' 50"/ + + Means of the} 21 deg. 29' 200 deg. 12' 10 deg. 17' 11" + above } + + On January 18. 21 deg. 12' 200 deg. 41' the north end of + the needle dipped 42 deg. 1' 7". + + +The tides at the Sandwich Islands are so inconsiderable, that, with +the great surf which broke against the shore, it was hardly possible +to tell, at any time, whether we had high or low water, or whether +it ebbed or flowed. On the south side of Atooi, we generally found a +current setting to the westward, or north-westward. But when we +were at anchor off Oneeheow, the current set nearly north-west and +south-east, six hours one way and six the other, and so strong as to +make the ships tend, though the wind blew fresh. This was certainly +a regular tide; and, as far as I could judge, the flood came from the +north-west. + +I now return to the progress of our voyage. On the 7th, being in the +latitude of 29 deg. N. and in the longitude of 200 deg. E. the wind veered to +S.E. This enabled us to steer N.E. and E.; which course we continued, +till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the S. and W. to +N.E. and E.N.E. I then tacked and stood to the northward, our latitude +being 30 deg. N. and our longitude 206 deg. 15' E. Notwithstanding our +advanced latitude, and its being the winter season, we had only begun, +for a few days past, to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and +evenings. This is a sign of the equal and lasting influence of +the sun's heat, at all seasons, to 30 deg. on each side the line. The +disproportion is known to become very great after that. This must be +attributed almost entirely to the direction of the rays of the sun, +independent of the bare distance, which is by no means equal to the +effect. + +On the 19th, being now in the latitude of 37 deg. N. and in the longitude +of 206 deg. E. the wind veered to S.E.; and I was enabled again to +steer to the E. inclining to the N. We had, on the 25th, reached the +latitude of 42 deg. 30', and the longitude of 219 deg.; and then we began +to meet with the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson's +voyage, under the name of sea-leek, which the Manilla ships generally +fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood also appeared. But if we +had not known that the continent of North America was not far distant, +we might, from the few signs of the vicinity of land hitherto met +with, have concluded, that there was none within some thousand leagues +of us. We had hardly seen a bird, or any other oceanic animal, since +we left Sandwich Islands. + +On the 1st of March, our latitude being now 44 deg. 49' N., and our +longitude 228 deg. E. we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a wind +from the N. with which I stood to the E. close hauled, in order to +make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far +from us. It was remarkable, that we should still carry with us such +moderate and mild weather so far to the northward, and so near the +coast of an extensive continent, at this time of the year. The present +season either must be uncommon for its mildness, or we can assign no +reason why Sir Francis Drake should have met with such severe cold, +about this latitude, in the month of June. Viscaino, indeed, who was +near the same place in the depth of winter, says little of the cold, +and speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains somewhere on the coast, as a +thing rather remarkable.[1] Our seeing so few birds, in comparison of +what we met with in the same latitudes to the south of the Line, +is another singular circumstance, which must either proceed from a +scarcity of the different sorts, or from a deficiency of places +to rest upon. From hence, we may conclude, that, beyond 40 deg. in the +southern hemisphere, the species are much more numerous, and the isles +where they inhabit also more plentifully scattered about, than any +where between the coast of California and Japan, in or near that +latitude. + +[Footnote 1: See Torquemada's Narrative of Viscaino's Expedition +in 1602 and 1603, in the second volume of Vanegas's History of +California, English translation, from p. 229 to p. 308.--D.] + +During a calm, on the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed +covered with a kind of slime, and some small sea-animals were swimming +about. The most conspicuous of which were of the gelatinous or +_medusa_ kind, almost globular; and another sort smaller, that had +a white or shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of these +last were taken up, and put into a glass cup with some salt water, in +which they appeared like small scales or bits of silver, when at rest, +in a prone situation. When they began to swim about, which they did, +with equal ease, upon their backs, sides, or belly, they emitted +the brightest colours of the most precious gems, according to their +position with respect to the light. Sometimes they appeared quite +pellucid, at other times assuming various tints of blue, from a pale +sapphirine to a deep violet colour; which were frequently mixed with +a ruby or opaline redness; and glowed with a strength sufficient to +illuminate the vessel and water. These colours appeared most vivid +when the glass was held to a strong light; and mostly vanished on the +subsiding of the animals to the bottom, when they had a brownish cast. +But, with candle light, the colour was, chiefly, a beautiful pale +green, tinged with a burnished gloss; and, in the dark, it had a +faint appearance of glowing fire. They proved to be a new species of +_oniscus_, and, from their properties, were, by Mr Anderson, (to whom +we owe this account of them), called _oniscus fulgens_; being probably +an animal which has a share in producing some sorts of that lucid +appearance, often observed near ships at sea in the night. On the same +day two large birds settled on the water, near the ship. One of these +was the _procellaria maxima_ (the _quebrantahuessos_), and the +other, which was little more than half the size, seemed to be of the +_albatross_ kind. The upper part of the wings, and tip of the tail, +were black, with the rest white; the bill yellowish; upon the whole +not unlike the sea-gull, though larger. + +On the 6th at noon, being in the latitude of 44 deg. 10' N., and the +longitude of 234-1/2 deg. E., we saw two seals and several whales; and at +day-break the next morning, the long-looked-for coast of New Albion[2] +was seen, extending from N.E. to S.E., distant ten or twelve leagues. +At noon our latitude was 44 deg. 33' N., and our longitude 235 deg. 20' E.; +and the land extended from N.E. 1/2 N. to S.E. by S. about eight +leagues distant. In this situation we had seventy-three fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom, and about a league farther off found ninety +fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate height, diversified +with hills and valleys, and almost every where covered with wood. +There was, however, no very striking object on any part of it, except +one hill, whose elevated summit was flat. This bore E. from us at +noon. At the northern extreme the land formed a point, which I called +_Cape Foulweather_, from the very bad weather that we soon after met +with. I judge it to lie in the latitude of 44 deg. 55' N., and in the +longitude of 235 deg. 54' E. + +[Footnote 2: This part of the west side of North America was so named +by Sir Francis Drake.--D.] + +We had variable light airs and calms till eight o'clock in the +evening, when a breeze sprung up at S.W. With it I stood to the N.W., +under an easy sail, waiting for day-light, to range along the coast. +But at four, next morning, the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in +squalls, with rain. Our course was N.E. till near ten o'clock, when, +finding that I could make no progress on this tack, and seeing +nothing like a harbour, I tacked, and stood off S.W. At this time Cape +Foulweather bore N.E. by N. about eight leagues distant. Toward noon +the wind veered more to the westward, and the weather became fair +and clear; so that we were enabled to make lunar observations. Having +reduced all those that we had made since the 19th of last month to +the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting in the whole to +seventy-two sets, their mean result determined the longitude to be +235 deg. 15' 26" E., which was 14' 11" less than what the time-keeper +gave. This longitude is made use of for settling that of the coast; +and I have not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the +truth. + +Our difficulties now began to increase. In the evening the wind came +to the N.W., blowing in squalls, with hail and sleet; and the weather +being thick and hazy, I stood out to sea till near noon the next +day, when I tacked, and stood in again for the land, which made +its appearance at two in the afternoon, bearing E.N.E. The wind and +weather continued the same; but, in the evening, the former veered +more to the W. and the latter grew worse, which made it necessary +to tack and stand off till four the next morning, when I ventured to +stand in again. + +At four in the afternoon we saw the island, which, at six, extended +from N.E. 1/2 E. to S.E. by S. about eight leagues distant. In this +situation we tacked, and sounded; but a line of a hundred and sixty +fathoms did not reach the ground. I stood off till midnight, then +stood in again; and at half-past six we were within three leagues +of the land, which extended from N. by E. 1/2 E. to S. 1/2 E.; each +extreme about seven leagues distant. Seeing no signs of a harbour, and +the weather being still unsettled, I tacked, and stretched off S.W. +having then fifty-five fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. + +That part of the land which we were so near when we tacked, is of a +moderate height, though in some places it rises higher within. It was +diversified with a great many rising grounds and small hills; many +of which were entirely covered with tall, straight trees; and +others, which were lower, and grew in spots like coppices; but the +interspaces, and sides of many of the rising grounds, were clear. The +whole, though it might make an agreeable summer prospect, had now an +uncomfortable appearance; as the bare grounds towards the coast were +all covered with snow, which seemed to be of a considerable depth +between the little hills and rising grounds; and in several places, +toward the sea, might easily have been mistaken, at a distance, for +white cliffs. The snow on the rising grounds was thinner spread; and +farther inland, there was no appearance of any; from whence we might, +perhaps, conclude, that what we saw toward the sea, had fallen during +the night; which was colder than any we had experienced since our +arrival on the coast; and we had sometimes a kind of sleet. The coast +seemed every where almost straight, without any opening or inlet; and +it appeared to terminate in a kind of white sandy beach; though some +on board thought that appearance was owing to the snow. Each extreme +of the land that was now before us, seemed to shoot out into a point. +The northern one was the same which we had first seen on the 7th; and +on that account I called it _Cape Perpetua_. It lies in the latitude +of 44 deg. 6' N., and in the longitude of 235 deg. 57'E. The southern extreme +before us, I named _Cape Gregory_.[3] Its latitude is 43 deg. 30', and its +longitude 235 deg. 57' E. It is a remarkable point; the land of it rising +almost directly from the sea to a tolerable height, while that on each +side of it is low. + +[Footnote 3: In our calendar, the 7th of March is distinguished by the +name of Perpetua M, and the 12th by that of Gregory B.--D.] + +I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked, and +stood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But +in this I was mistaken; for at five o'clock it began to run to the +west and south-west, which, obliged me once more to stand out to sea. +At this time, Cape Perpetua bore N.E. by N.; and the farthest land we +could see to the south of Cape Gregory bore S. by E., perhaps ten or +twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this estimation, its latitude +will be 43 deg. 10', and its longitude 235 deg. 55' E., which is nearly the +situation of Cape Blanco, discovered or seen by Martin d'Aguilar, on +the 19th of January, 1603. It is worth observing, that in the very +latitude where we now were, geographers have been pleased to place a +large entrance or strait, the discovery of which they take upon them +to ascribe to the same navigator; whereas nothing more is mentioned in +the account of his voyage, than his having seen, in this situation, +a large river, which he would have entered, but was prevented by the +currents.[4] + +[Footnote 4: See the History of California, Eng. trans. vol. ii. p. +292.--D.] + +The wind, as I have observed, had veered to S.W. in the evening; but +it was very unsettled, and blew in squalls, with snow showers. In one +of these, at midnight, it shifted at once to W.N.W. and soon increased +to a very hard gale, with heavy squalls, attended with sleet or +snow. There was no choice now; and we were obliged to stretch to the +southward, in order to get clear of the coast. This was done under +courses and two close-reefed top-sails; being rather more sail than +the ships could safely bear; but it was necessary to carry it to avoid +the more pressing danger of being forced on shore. This gale continued +till eight o'clock in the morning of the 18th; when it abated, and +I stood in again for the land. We had been forced a considerable way +backward; for at the time of our tacking, we were in the latitude of +42 deg. 45', and in the longitude of 233 deg. 30'. + +The wind continued at W. and N.W.; storms, moderate weather, and +calms, succeeding each other by turns, till the morning of the 21st; +when, after a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at S.W. This bringing +with it fair weather, I steered north-easterly, in order to fall +in with the land, beyond that part of it where we had already so +unprofitable been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening, +the wind veered to the westward; and at eight o'clock the next +morning, we saw the land, extending from N.E. to E. nine leagues +distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 47 deg. 5' N. and in the +longitude of 235 deg. 10' E. + +I continued to stand to the north, with a fine breeze at W. and W.N.W. +till near seven o'clock in the evening, when I tacked to wait for +day-light. At this time we were in forty-eight fathoms water, and +about four leagues from the land, which extended from N. to S.E. +1/2 E. and a small round hill, which had the appearance of being an +island, bore N. 3/4 E., distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed; it +appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be seen from +the deck. Between this island or rock, and the northern extreme of the +land, there appeared to be a small opening, which flattered us with +the hopes of finding an harbour. These hopes lessened as we drew +nearer; and at last we had some reason to think that the opening was +closed by low land. On this account I called the point of land to the +north of it _Cape Flattery_. It lies in the latitude of 48 deg. 15' N., +and in the longitude of 235 deg. 3' E. There is a round hill of a moderate +height over it; and all the land upon this part of the coast is of a +moderate and pretty equal height, well covered with wood, and had +a very pleasant and fertile appearance. It is in this very latitude +where we now were, that geographers have placed the pretended strait +of Juan de Fuca. But we saw nothing like it; nor is there the least +probability that ever any such thing existed.[5] + +[Footnote 5: See Michael Locke's apocryphal account of Juan de Fuca +and his pretended strait, in Purchas, vol. iii. p. 849-852, and many +later Collections.--D.] + +I stood off to the southward till midnight, when I tacked, and steered +to the N.W. with a gentle breeze at S.W. intending to stand in for the +land as soon as day-light should appear. But, by that time, we were +reduced to two courses and close-reefed top-sails, having a very hard +gale, with rain, right on shore; so that, instead of running in for +the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which we +had already got. The south-west wind was, however, but of short +continuance; for in the evening it veered again to the west. Thus +had we perpetually strong west and north-west winds to encounter. +Sometimes, in an evening, the wind would become moderate, and veer to +the southward; but this was always a sure prelude to a storm, which +blew the hardest at S.S.E. and was attended with rain and sleet. It +seldom lasted above four or six hours, before it was succeeded by +another gale from the N.W. which, generally, brought with it fair +weather. It was, by the means of these southerly blasts, that we were +enabled to get to the north-west at all. + +At length, at nine o'clock in the morning of the 29th, as we were +standing to the N.E. we again saw the land, which, at noon, extended +from N.W. by W. to E.S.E. the nearest part about six leagues distant. +Our latitude was now 49 deg. 29' N. and our longitude 232 deg. 29' E. The +appearance of the country differed much from that of the parts which +we had before seen; being full of high mountains, whose summits were +covered with snow. But the valleys between them, and the grounds on +the sea coast, high as well as low, were covered to a considerable +breadth with high, straight trees, that formed a beautiful prospect +as of one vast forest. The south-east extreme of the land formed a low +point off which are many breakers, occasioned by sunken rocks. On this +account it was called _Point Breakers_. It lies in the latitude of 49 deg. +15' N., and in the longitude of 233 deg. 20' E., and the other extreme +in about the latitude of 50 deg., and the longitude of 232 deg.. I named this +last _Woody Point_. It projects pretty much out to the S.W. and is +high land. Between these two points the shore forms a large bay, which +I called _Hope Bay_; hoping, from the appearance of the land, to find +in it a good harbour. The event proved that we were not mistaken. + +As we drew nearer the coast, we perceived the appearance of two +inlets; one in the N.W., and the other in the N.E. corner of the bay. +As I could not fetch the former, I bore up for the latter; and passed +some breakers, or sunken rocks, that lay a league or more from the +shore. We had nineteen and twenty fathoms water half a league without +them; but as soon as we had passed them, the depth increased to +thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom; and farther in +we found no ground with the greatest length of line. Notwithstanding +appearances, we were not yet sure that there were any inlets; but +as we were in a deep bay, I had resolved to anchor, with a view to +endeavour to get some water, of which, by this time, we were in great +want. At length, as we advanced, the existence of the inlet was no +longer doubtful. At five o'clock we reached the west point of it, +where we were becalmed for some time. While in this situation, I +ordered all the boats to be hoisted out to tow the ships in. But this +was hardly done, before a fresh breeze sprung up again at N.W. with +which we were enabled to stretch up into an arm of the inlet, that was +observed by us to run into the N.E. There we were again becalmed, and +obliged to anchor in eighty-five fathoms water, and so near the shore +as to reach it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before +she got within the arm, where she anchored, and found only seventy +fathoms. + +We no sooner drew near the inlet than we found the coast to be +inhabited; and at the place where we were first becalmed, three canoes +came off to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, +and in the third ten. Having come pretty near us, a person in one of +the two last stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, +as we guessed, by his gestures. At the same time he kept strewing +handfuls of feathers towards us;[6] and some of his companions threw +handfuls of a red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who +played the orator, wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand +something which rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring himself +with his repeated exhortations, of which we did not understand a word, +he was quiet; and then others took it, by turns, to say something, +though they acted their part neither so long, nor with so much +vehemence, as the other. We observed, that two or three had their hair +quite strewed over with small white feathers; and others had large +ones stuck into different parts of the head. After the tumultuous +noise had ceased, they lay at a little distance from the ship, and +conversed with each other in a very easy manner; nor did they seem to +shew the least surprise or distrust. Some of them, now and then, got +up, and said something after the manner of their first harangues; and +one sung a very agreeable air, with a degree of softness and melody +which we could not have expected; the word _haela_ being often +repeated as the burden of the song. The breeze which soon after sprung +up, bringing us nearer to the shore, the canoes began to come off in +greater numbers; and we had at one time thirty-two of them near the +ship, carrying from three to seven or eight persons each, both men +and women. Several of these stood up in their canoes, haranguing and +making gestures, after the manner of our first visitors. One canoe was +remarkable for a singular head, which had a bird's eye and bill, of an +enormous size, painted on it; and a person, who was in it, who seemed +to be a chief, was no less remarkable for his uncommon appearance; +having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an +extraordinary manner.[7] He held in his hand a carved bird of wood, as +large as a pigeon, with which he rattled as the person first mentioned +had done; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which was +attended with some expressive gestures. + +[Footnote 6: The natives of this coast, twelve degrees farther +south, also brought feathers as presents to Sir Francis Drake on +his arrival.--See an account of his voyage in _Campbell's edit. of +Harris_, vol. i. p. 18--D. And in this collection, vol. x.--E.] + +[Footnote 7: Viscaino met with natives on the coast of California, +while he was in the harbour of San Diego, _who were painted or +besmeared with black and white, and had their heads loaded with +feathers_.--History of California, vol. ii. p. 272.--D.] + +Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not be suspected +of any hostile intention, we could not prevail upon any of them to +come on board. They shewed great readiness, however, to part with any +thing they had, and took from us whatever we offered them in exchange, +but were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles of +commerce; appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that +metal. Many of the canoes followed us to our anchoring-place; and +a group, of about ten or a dozen of them, remained alongside the +Resolution most part of the night. + +These circumstances gave us a reasonable ground of hope, that we +should find this a comfortable station to supply all our wants, and to +make us forget the hardships and delays experienced during a constant +succession of adverse winds and boisterous weather, almost ever since +our arrival upon the coast of America. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +TRANSACTIONS AMONGST THE NATIVES OF NORTH AMERICA; DISCOVERIES ALONG +THAT COAST AND THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, NORTHWARD TO ICY CAPE; +AND RETURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. + + +SECTION I. + +_The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.--Intercourse with +the Natives.--Articles brought to barter.--Thefts committed.--The +Observatories erected, and Carpenters set to work.--Jealousy of the +Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other Tribes having Intercourse +with the Ships.--Stormy and rainy Weather.--Progress round the +Sound.--Behaviour of the Natives at their Villages.--Their Manner of +drying fish, &c.--Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory +Ceremonies.--A second Visit to one of the Villages.--Leave to cut +Grass, purchased.--The Ships sail.--Presents given and received at +parting._ + +The ships having happily found so excellent shelter in an inlet, the +coasts of which appeared to be inhabited by a race of people, whose +inoffensive behaviour promised a friendly intercourse, the next +morning, after coming to anchor, I lost no time in endeavouring to +find a commodious harbour where we might station ourselves during our +continuance in the Sound. Accordingly, I sent three armed boats, under +the command of Mr King, upon this service; and soon after, I went +myself, in a small boat, on the same search. I had very little trouble +in finding what we wanted. On the N.W. of the arm we were now in, and +not far from the ships, I met with a convenient snug cove well suited +to our purpose. Mr King was equally successful; for he returned about +noon, with an account of a still better harbour, which he had seen +and examined, lying on the N.W. side of the land. But as it would have +required more time to carry the ships thither, than to the cove +where I had been, which was immediately within our reach, this reason +operated to determine my choice in favour of the latter situation. But +being apprehensive, that we should not be able to transport our ships +to it, and to moor them properly, before night came on, I thought +it best to remain where we were till next morning; and, that no time +might be lost, I employed the remainder of the day to some useful +purposes, ordering the sails to be unbent, the top-masts to be struck, +and the fore-mast of the Resolution to be unrigged, in order to fix a +new bib, one of the old ones being decayed. + +A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the ships all +day, and a trade commenced betwixt us and them, which was carried +on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The articles which they +offered to sale were skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, +foxes, deer, rackoons, pole-cats, martins, and, in particular, of the +sea-otters, which are found at the islands E. of Kamtschatka. Besides +the skins in their native shape, they also brought garments made of +them, and another sort of cloathing made of the bark of a tree, or +some plant like hemp; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears; +fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds; wooden-vizors of many +different monstrous figures; a sort of woollen stuff, or blanketing; +bags filled with red ochre; pieces of carved work, beads, and +several other little ornaments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a +horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses; and several chisels, or +pieces of iron, fixed to handles. From their possessing which metals, +we could infer that they had either been visited before by some +civilized nation, or had connections with tribes on their continent, +who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all the +articles which they brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls, +and hands not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made our +people plainly understand they had eaten; and, indeed, some of them +had evident marks that they had been upon the fire. We had but too +much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that the horrid +practice of feeding on their enemies is as prevalent here, as we had +found it to be at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. For the +various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, +chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or +any kind of metal. Glass-beads they were not fond of, and cloth of +every sort they rejected. + +We employed the next day in hauling our ships into the cove, where +they were moored head and stern, fastening our hawsers to the trees +on shore. On heaving up the anchor of the Resolution, we found, +notwithstanding the great depth of water in which it was let go, +that there were rocks at the bottom. These had done some considerable +damage to the cable; and the hawsers that were carried out to warp the +ship into the cove also got foul of rocks, from which it appeared +that the whole bottom was strewed with them. The ship being again very +leaky in her upper works, I ordered the carpenters to go to work to +caulk her, and to repair such other defects as, on examination, we +might discover. + +The fame of our arrival brought a great concourse of the natives to +our ships in the course of this day. We counted above a hundred canoes +at one time, which might be supposed to contain, at an average, five +persons each; for few of them had less than three on board; great +numbers had seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with no less +than seventeen. Amongst these visitors, many now favoured us with +their company for the first time, which we could guess, from their +approaching the ships with their orations and other ceremonies. If +they had any distrust or fear of us at first, they now appeared to +have laid it aside; for they came on board the ships, and mixed with +our people with the greatest freedom. We soon discovered, by this +nearer intercourse, that they were as light-fingered as any of our +friends in the islands we had visited in the course of the voyage. +And they were far more dangerous thieves; for, possessing sharp +iron-instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other +piece of iron from a rope, the instant that our backs were turned. A +large hook, weighing between twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller +ones, and other articles of iron, were lost in this manner. And, as +to our boats, they stripped them of every bit of iron that was worth +carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They +were dexterous enough in effecting their purposes; for one fellow +would contrive to amuse the boat-keeper, at one end of a boat, while +another was pulling out the iron-work at the other. If we missed a +thing immediately after it had been stolen, we found little difficulty +in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one +another. But the guilty person generally relinquished his prize with +reluctance, and sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to +force. + +The ships being securely moored, we began our other necessary business +the next day. The observatories were carried ashore, and placed upon +an elevated rock on one side of the cove, close to the Resolution. A +party of men, with an officer, was sent to cut wood, and to clear a +place for the conveniency of watering. Others were employed to brew +spruce-beer, as pine-trees abounded here. The forge was also set up, +to make the iron-work wanting for the repairs of the fore-mast. For, +besides one of the bibs being defective, the larboard trestle-tree and +one of the cross-trees were sprung. + +A considerable number of the natives visited us daily; and every now +and then we saw new faces. On their first coming, they generally went +through a singular mode of introducing themselves. They would paddle, +with all their strength, quite round both ships, a chief, or other +principal person in the canoe, standing up with a spear, or some other +weapon, in his hand, and speaking, or rather hollowing, all the time. +Sometimes the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a +mask, representing either a human visage, or that of some animal; +and, instead of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand, as before +described. After making this circuit round the ships, they would come +alongside, and begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, +indeed, they would first give us a song, in which all in the canoe +joined, with a very pleasing harmony. + +During these visits, they gave us no other trouble than to guard +against their thievish tricks. But, in the morning of the 4th, we +had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, who were employed in cutting +wood, and filling water, observed, that the natives all around them +were arming themselves in the best manner they could; those, who were +not possessed of proper weapons, preparing sticks, and collecting +stones. On hearing this, I thought it prudent to arm also; but, being +determined to act upon the defensive, I ordered all our workmen to +retreat to the rock, upon which we had placed our observatories, +leaving the natives in quiet possession of the ground where they had +assembled, which was within a stone's throw of the Resolution's stern. +Our fears were ill-grounded; these hostile preparations were not +directed against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who +were coming to fight them; and our friends of the Sound, on observing +our apprehensions, used their best endeavours to convince us that this +was the case. We could see that they had people looking out on each +point of the cove, and canoes frequently passed between them and the +main body assembled near the ships. At length, the adverse party, in +about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the S. point of the +cove, where they stopped, and lay drawn up in a line of battle, a +negotiation having commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the +treaty, passed between the two parties, and there was some speaking on +both sides. At length, the difference, whatever it was, seemed to be +compromised; but the strangers were not allowed to come alongside the +ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us. Probably we were +the cause of the quarrel; the strangers, perhaps, being desirous to +share in the advantages of a trade with us, and our first friends, the +inhabitants of the Sound, being determined to engross us entirely to +themselves. We had proofs of this on several other occasions, nay, it +appeared, that even those who lived in the Sound were not united in +the same cause; for the weaker were frequently obliged to give way to +the stronger party, and plundered of every thing, without attempting +to make the least resistance. + +We resumed our work in the afternoon, and the next day rigged the +fore-mast; the head of which being rather too small for the cap, the +carpenter went to work, to fix a piece on one side, to fill up the +vacant space. In cutting into the mast-head for this purpose, and +examining the state of it, both cheeks were found to be so rotten, +that there was no possibility of repairing them, and it became +necessary to get the mast out, and to fix new ones upon it. It was +evident, that one of the cheeks had been defective at the first, and +that the unsound part had been cut out, and a piece put in, which had +not only weakened the mast-head, but had, in a great measure, been +the occasion of rotting every other part of both cheeks. Thus, when we +were almost ready to put to sea, we had all our work to do over again; +and, what was still more provoking, an additional repair was to be +undertaken, which would require some time to be completed. But, as +there was no remedy, we immediately set about it. It was fortunate +for the voyage, that these defects were discovered, when we were in a +place, where the materials requisite were to be procured. For, amongst +the drift-wood, in the cove where the ships lay, were some small +seasoned trees very fit for our purpose. One of these was pitched +upon, and the carpenters began, without loss of time, to make out of +it two new cheeks. + +In the morning of the 7th, we got the fore-mast out, and hauled it +ashore, and the carpenters of the ships were set to work upon it. Some +parts of the lower standing rigging having been found to be very much +decayed, as we had time now to put them in order, while the carpenters +were repairing the fore-mast, I ordered a new set of main-rigging to +be fitted, and a more perfect set of fore-rigging to be selected out +of the best parts of the old. + +From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, the weather had +been exceedingly fine, without either wind or rain. That comfort, at +the very moment when the continuance of it would have been of most +service, was withdrawn. In the morning of the 8th, the wind freshened +at S.E., attended with thick hazy weather and rain. In the afternoon +the wind increased; and, toward the evening, it blew very hard indeed. +It came, in excessively heavy squalls, from over the high land on the +opposite shore, right into the cove, and, though the ships were +very well moored, put them in some danger. These tempestuous blasts +succeeded each other pretty quick, but they were of short duration, +and in the intervals between them we had a perfect calm. According to +the old proverb, Misfortunes seldom come single; the mizen was now +the only mast on board the Resolution that remained rigged, with its +top-mast up. The former was so defective, that it could not support +the latter during the violence of the squalls, but gave way at the +head under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale abated; but the +rain continued with very little intermission for several days; and, +that the carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their labours, +while it prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore-mast, where they +could work with some degree of convenience. + +The bad weather which now came on, did not, however, hinder the +natives from visiting us daily; and, in such circumstances, their +visits were very advantageous to us. For they frequently brought us a +tolerable supply of fish, when we could not catch any ourselves with +hook and line; and there was not a proper place near us where we could +draw a net. The fish which they brought us were either sardines, or +what resembled them much; a small kind of bream; and sometimes small +cod. + +On the 11th, notwithstanding the rainy weather, the main-rigging was +fixed and got over head; and our employment, the day after, was to +take down the mizen-mast, the head of which proved to be so rotten, +that it dropped off while in the slings. In the evening we were +visited by a tribe of natives whom we had never seen before, and who, +in general, were better-looking people than most of our old friends, +some of whom attended them. I prevailed upon these visitors to go down +into the cabin for the first time, and observed, that there was not a +single object that fixed the attention of most of them for a moment; +their countenances marking, that they looked upon all our novelties +with the utmost indifference. This, however, was not without +exception; for a few of the company shewed a certain degree of +curiosity. + +In the afternoon of the next day, I went into the woods with a +party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizen-mast. On the day +following, it was brought to the place where the carpenters were +employed upon the fore-mast. In the evening the wind, which had been, +for some time, westerly, veered to S.E., and increased to a very hard +gale, with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, +when it abated, and veered again to the W. + +The fore-mast being by this time finished, we hauled it alongside; but +the bad weather prevented our getting it in till the afternoon; and +we set about rigging it with the greatest expedition, while the +carpenters were going on with the mizen-mast on shore. They had made +very considerable progress in it on the 16th, when they discovered +that the stick upon which they were at work was sprung, or wounded, +owing, as supposed, to some accident in cutting it down. So that all +their labour was thrown away, and it became necessary to get another +tree out of the woods, which employed all hands above half a day. +During these various operations, several of the natives, who were +about the ships, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, which +we did not expect; from their general indifference and inattention. + +On the 18th, a party of strangers, in six or eight canoes, came into +the cove, where they remained, looking at us, for some time, and then +retired, without coming alongside either ship. We supposed, that our +old friends, who were more numerous at this time about us, than these +new visitors, would not permit them to have any intercourse with +us. It was evident, upon this and several other occasions, that the +inhabitants of the adjoining parts of the Sound engrossed us entirely +to themselves; or if, at any time, they did not hinder strangers from +trading with us, they contrived to manage the trade for them in such a +manner, that the price of their commodities was always kept up; while +the value of ours was lessening every day. We also found, that many of +the principal natives, who lived near us, carried on a trade with +more distant tribes, in the articles they had procured from us. For we +observed that they would frequently disappear for four or five days at +a time, and then return with fresh cargoes of skins and curiosities, +which our people were so passionately fond of, that they always +came to a good market. But we received most benefit from such of +the natives as visited us daily. These, after disposing of all their +little trifles, turned their attention to fishing; and we never +failed to partake of what they caught. We also got from these people a +considerable quantity of very good animal oil, which they had reserved +in bladders. In this traffic some would attempt to cheat us, by mixing +water with the oil; and, once or twice, they had the address to carry +their imposition so far, as to fill their bladders with mere water, +without a single drop of oil. It was always better to bear with +these tricks, than to make them the foundation of a quarrel; for our +articles of traffic consisted, for the most part, of mere trifles; and +yet we were put to our shifts to find a constant supply even of these. +Beads, and such other toys, of which I had still some left, were in +little estimation. Nothing would go down with our visitors but metal; +and brass had, by this time, supplanted iron, being so eagerly sought +after, that before we left this place, hardly a bit of it was left in +the ships, except what belonged to our necessary instruments. Whole +suits of clothes were stripped of every button; bureaus of their +furniture; and copper-kettles, tin-cannisters, candle-sticks, and +the like, all went to wreck; so that our American friends here got a +greater medley and variety of things from us, than any other nation +whom we had visited in the course of the voyage. + +After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, we +availed ourselves of it, to get up the top-masts and yards, and to fix +up the rigging. And, having now finished most of our heavy work, I set +out the next morning to take a view of the Sound. I first went to the +W. point, where I found a large village, and, before it, a very snug +harbour, in which was from nine to four fathoms water, over a bottom +of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to +most of whom I was well known, received me very courteously; every one +pressing me to go into his house, or rather his apartment; for several +families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations, +and my hospitable friends, whom I visited, spread a mat for me to sit +down upon, and shewed me every other mark of civility. In most of the +houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before +mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New +Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening +sardines. I had seen a large quantity of them brought on shore from +canoes, and divided by measure amongst several people, who carried +them up to their houses, where the operation of curing them by +smoke-drying is performed. They hang them on small rods, at first, +about a foot from the fire; afterward they remove them higher and +higher, to make room for others, till the rods, on which the fish +hang, reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried, they +are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with +mats. Thus they are kept till wanted; and they are not a disagreeable +article of food. Cod, and other large fish, are also cured in the +same manner by them; though they sometimes dry these in the open air, +without fire. + +From this village I proceeded up the west side of the Sound. For about +three miles, I found the shore covered with small islands, which are +so situated as to form several convenient harbours, having various +depths of water, from thirty to seven fathoms, with a good bottom. Two +leagues within the Sound, on this west side, there runs in an arm in +the direction of N.N.W.; and two miles farther, is another nearly in +the same direction, with a pretty large island before it. I had no +time to examine either of these arms; but have reason to believe, that +they do not extend far inland, as the water was no more than brackish +at their entrances. A mile above the second arm, I found the remains +of a village. The logs or framings of the houses were standing; but +the boards that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. +Before this village were some large fishing wears; but I saw nobody +attending them. These wears were composed of pieces of wicker-work +made of small rods, some closer than others, according to the size of +the fish intended to be caught in them. These pieces of wicker-work +(some of whose _superficies_ are, at least, twenty feet by twelve), +are fixed up edgewise in shallow water, by strong poles or pickets, +that stand firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain +of a few acres extent, covered with the largest pine-trees that I ever +saw. This was more remarkable, as the elevated ground, on most other +parts of this west side of the Sound, was rather naked. + +From this place, I crossed over to the other, or east side of the +Sound, passing an arm of it that runs in N.N.E., to appearance not +far. I now found, what I had before conjectured, that the land, under +which the ships lay, was an island; and that there were many smaller +ones lying scattered in the Sound on the west side of it. Opposite +the north end of our large island, upon the main land, I observed a +village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not so polite +as those of the other I had just visited. But this cold reception +seemed, in a great measure, if not entirely, owing to one surly chief, +who would not let me enter their houses, following me wherever I went; +and several times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience that +I should be gone. I attempted in vain to sooth him by presents, but +though he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some +of the young women, better pleased with us than was their inhospitable +chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and, +assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village, by joining in a +song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. + +The day being now far spent, I proceeded for the ships, round the +north end of the large island; meeting, in my way, with several canoes +laden with sardines, which had been just caught, somewhere in the east +corner of the Sound. When I got on board, I was informed, that, while +I was absent, the ships had been visited by some strangers, in two +or three large canoes, who, by signs, made our people understand that +they had come from the S.E., beyond the bay. They brought several +skins, garments, and other articles, which they bartered. But what +was most singular, two silver table-spoons were purchased from +them, which, from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish +manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round his neck, by +way of ornament. These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully +supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. + +The mizen-mast being finished, it was got in, and rigged, on the 21st; +and the carpenters were set to work to make a new fore-top-mast, to +replace the one that had been carried away some time before. + +Next morning, about eight o'clock, we were visited by a number of +strangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They came into the cove from +the southward, and as soon as they had turned the point of it, they +stopped, and lay drawn up in a body above half an hour, about two or +three hundred yards from the ships. At first, we thought, that they +were afraid to come nearer; but we were mistaken in this, and they +were only preparing an introductory ceremony. On advancing toward the +ships, they all stood up in their canoes, and began to sing. Some +of their songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and +others in quicker time; and they accompanied their notes with the +most regular motions of their hands; or beating in concert, with their +paddles, on the sides of the canoes, and making other very expressive +gestures. At the end of each song, they remained silent a few +seconds, and then began again, sometimes pronouncing the word _hooee!_ +forcibly, as a chorus. After entertaining us with this specimen of +their music, which we listened to with admiration, for above half an +hour, they came alongside the ships, and bartered what they had to +dispose of. Some of our old friends of the Sound were now found to +be amongst them, and they took the whole management of the traffic +between us and the strangers, much to the advantage of the latter. + +Our attendance on these visitors being finished, Captain Clerke and +I went, in the forenoon, with two boats, to the village at the west +point of the Sound. When I was there before, I had observed, that +plenty of grass grew near it; and it was necessary to lay in a +quantity of this, as food for the few goats and sheep which were +still left on board. The inhabitants received us with the same +demonstrations of friendship which I had experienced before; and the +moment we landed, I ordered some of my people to begin their operation +of cutting. I had not the least imagination, that the natives could +make any objection to our furnishing ourselves with what seemed to be +of no use to them, but was necessary for us. However, I was mistaken; +for, the moment that our men began to cut, some of the inhabitants +interposed, and would not permit them to proceed, saying they must +"_makook_," that is, must first buy it. I was now in one of the +houses; but as soon as I heard of this, I went to the field, where I +found about a dozen of the natives, each of whom laid claim to some +part of the grass that grew in this place. I bargained with them for +it, and having completed the purchase, thought that we were now at +liberty to cut wherever we pleased. But here, again, it appeared, that +I was under a mistake; for the liberal manner in which I had paid +the first pretended proprietors, brought fresh demands upon me from +others; so that there did not seem to be a single blade of grass, that +had not a separate owner, and so many of them were to be satisfied, +that I very soon emptied my pockets. When they found that I really +had nothing more to give, their importunities ceased, and we were +permitted to cut where-ever we pleased, and as much as we chose to +carry away. + +Here I must observe, that I have no where, in my several voyages, met +with any uncivilized nation, or tribe, who had such strict notions +of their having a right to the exclusive property of every thing that +their country produces, as the inhabitants of this Sound. At first, +they wanted our people to pay for the wood and water that they carried +on board; and had I been upon the spot, when these demands were +made, I should certainly have complied with them. Our workmen, in my +absence, thought differently, for they took but little notice of such +claims; and the natives, when they found that we were determined +to pay nothing, at last ceased to apply. But they made a merit of +necessity, and frequently afterward took occasion to remind us, that +they had given us wood and water out of friendship.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Similar to the behaviour of the natives of Nootka, on +this occasion, was that of another tribe of Indians, farther north, in +latitude 57 deg. 18', to the Spaniards, who had preceded Captain Cook only +three years, in a voyage to explore the coast of America, northward of +California. See the journal of that voyage, writ by the second pilot +of the fleet, and published by the Honourable Mr Daines Barrington, to +whom the literary world owes so many obligations.--_Miscellanies_, p. +505, 506.--D.] + +During the time I was at this village, Mr Webber, who had attended me +thither, made drawings of every thing that was curious, both within +and without doors. I had also an opportunity of inspecting more +narrowly, the construction of the houses, household furniture, and +utensils, and the striking peculiarities of the customs and modes of +living of the inhabitants. These shall be described in another place, +in the best manner I can, calling in to my assistance the observations +of Mr Anderson. When we had completed all our operations at this +village, the natives and we parted very good friends, and we got back +to the ships in the afternoon. + +The three following days were employed in getting ready to put to +sea; the sails were bent, the observatories and instruments, brewing +vessels, and other things, were moved from the shore; some small +spars, for different uses, and pieces of timber, which might be +occasionally sawn into boards, were prepared and put on board; and +both ships were cleared, and put into a sailing condition. + +Every thing being now ready, in the morning of the 26th, I intended to +have put to sea; but both wind and tide being against us, was obliged +to wait till noon, when the S.W. wind was succeeded by a calm, and +the tide turning in our favour, we cast off the moorings, and with +our boats towed the ships out of the cove. After this, we had variable +light airs and calms, till four in the afternoon, when a breeze +sprung up northerly, with very thick, hazy weather. The mercury in the +barometer fell unusually low, and we had every other fore-runner of +an approaching storm, which we had reason to expect would be from +the southward. This made me hesitate a little, as night was at hand, +whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But +my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of +losing this opportunity of getting out of the Sound, making a greater +impression on my mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger, I +determined to put to sea at all events. + +Our friends, the natives, attended us, till we were almost out of the +Sound; some on board the ships, and others in their canoes. One of +their chiefs, who had, some time before, attached himself to me, was +amongst the last who left us. Having, before he went, bestowed upon +him a small present, I received in return a beaver-skin, of much +greater value. This called upon me to make some addition to my +present, which pleased him so much, that he insisted upon my +acceptance of the beaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which +I knew he was particularly fond. Struck with this instance of +generosity, and desirous that he should be no sufferer by his +friendship to me, I presented to him a new broad sword, with a brass +hilt, the possession of which made him completely happy. He, and also +many others of his countrymen, importuned us much to pay them another +visit; and, by way of encouragement, promised to lay in a good stock +of skins. I made no doubt, that whoever comes after me to this place, +will find the natives prepared accordingly, with no inconsiderable +supply of an article of trade, which, they could observe, we were +eager to possess; and which we found could be purchased to great +advantage.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Captain King, as we shall afterwards find, proposes a +plan for the establishment of a fur-trade with this coast of America. +To this he was incited by the experience of the value of these +articles in the Chinese market. In fact, a settlement for the purpose +of carrying on this trade was commenced in 1786, by an association of +British merchants resident in India. It was soon afterwards seized +on by the Spaniards who pretended a prior right. But they, as we have +already mentioned, vol. xv. p. 157, abandoned all claim to this Sound +in 1790; and in 1795, it was formally taken possession of, in name of +his Britannic Majesty.--E.] + +Such particulars about the country, and its inhabitants, as came to +our knowledge during our short stay, and have not been mentioned +in the course of the narrative, will furnish materials for the two +following sections. + + +SECTION II. + +_The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into it.--Account +of the adjacent Country.--Weather.--Climate.--Trees.--Other Vegetable +Productions.--Quadrupeds, whose Skins were brought for +Sale.--Sea Animals.--Description of a Sea Otter.--Birds.--Water +Fowl.--Fish.--Shell-fish, &c.--Reptiles.--Insects.--Stones, +&c.--Persons of the Inhabitants.--Their Colour.--Common Dress and +Ornaments.--Occasional Dresses, and monstrous Decorations of +wooden Masks.--Their general Dispositions.--Songs.--Musical +Instruments.--Their Eagerness to possess Iron and other Metals._ + +On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the name of King +George's Sound; but I afterward found, that it is called Nootka by the +natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in +the latitude of 49 deg. 33' N., and in the longitude of 233 deg. 12' E. +The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breaker's Point to the +entrance of the Sound, is covered by a chain of sunken rocks, that +seemed to extend some distance from the shore; and, near the Sound, +are some islands and rocks above water. + +We enter this Sound between two rocky points, that lie E.S.E., and +W.N.W. from each other, distant between three and four miles. Within +these points the Sound widens considerably, and extends in, to the +northward, four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches +toward its bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity +to ascertain. But, from the circumstance of finding that the water +freshened where our boats crossed their entrance, it is probable that +they had almost reached its utmost limits. And this probability is +increased by the hills that bounded it toward the land, being covered +with thick snow, when those toward the sea, or where we lay, had not a +speck remaining on them, though, in general, they were much higher. In +the middle of the Sound are a number of islands of various sizes. The +depth of water in the middle of the Sound, and even close home to some +parts of its shore, is from forty-seven to ninety fathoms, and perhaps +more. The harbours, and anchoring-places within its circuit, are +numerous; but we had no time to survey them. The cove in which our +ships lay is on the east side of the Sound, and on the east side of +the largest of the islands. It is covered from the sea, but has little +else to recommend it, being exposed to the S.E. winds, which we found +to blow with great violence; and the devastation they make sometimes +was apparent in many places. + +The land bordering upon the sea-coast is of a middling height and +level; but within the Sound, it rises almost every-where into steep +hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or +blunted tops, with some sharp, though not very prominent, ridges on +their sides. Some of these hills may be reckoned high, while others of +them are of a very moderate height; but even the highest are entirely +covered to their tops with the thickest woods; as well as every flat +part toward the sea. There are sometimes spots upon the sides of some +of the hills which are bare; but they are few, in comparison of +the whole, though they sufficiently point out the general rocky +disposition of these hills. Properly speaking, they have no soil upon +them, except a kind of compost, produced from rotten mosses and trees, +of the depth of two feet or more. Their foundations are, therefore, to +be considered as nothing more than stupendous rocks, of a whitish +or grey cast, where they have been exposed to the weather; but, +when broken, they appeared to be of a blueish grey colour, like that +universal sort which were found at Kerguelen's Land. The rocky shores +are a continued mass of this; and the little coves, in the Sound, have +beaches composed of fragments of it, with a few other pebbles. All +these coves are furnished with a great quantity of fallen wood lying +in them, which is carried in by the tide; and with rills of fresh +water, sufficient for the use of a ship, which seem to be supplied +entirely from the rains, and fogs that hover about the tops of the +hills. For few springs can be expected in so rocky a country, and the +fresh water found farther up the Sound, most probably arose from the +melting of the snow; there being no room to suspect, that any large +river falls into the Sound, either from strangers coming down it, or +from any other circumstance. The water of these rills is perfectly +clear, and dissolves soap easily. + +The weather, during our stay, corresponded pretty nearly with that +which we had experienced off the coast. That is, when the wind was any +where between N. and W., the weather was fine and clear; but if to +the southward of W., hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we had any +experience of it, is infinitely milder than that on the east coast +of America, under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the +thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 42 deg., and +very often, in the day, it rose to 60 deg.. No such thing as frost was +perceived in any of the low ground; on the contrary, vegetation had +made a considerable progress, for I met with grass that was already +above a foot long. + +The trees which chiefly compose the woods, are the Canadian pine, +white cypress, _cypressus thyoides_, the wild pine, with two or +three other sorts of pine less common. The two first make up almost +two-thirds of the whole; and, at a distance, might be mistaken for the +same tree, as they both run up into pointed spire-like tops, but +they are easily distinguished on coming nearer from their colour, the +cypress being of a much paler green, or shade, than the other. The +trees, in general, grow with great vigour, and are all of a large +size. + +There is but little variety of other vegetable productions, though, +doubtless, several had not yet sprung up at the early season when we +visited the place, and many more might be hid from the narrow sphere +of our researches. About the rocks, and verge of the woods, we found +strawberry-plants, some raspberry, currant, and gooseberry bushes, +which were all in a most flourishing state, with a few small +black alder-trees. There are, likewise, a species of sow-thistle, +goose-grass, some crow's-foot, which has a very fine crimson flower, +and two sorts of _anthericum_, one with a large orange flower, and the +other with a blue one. We also found, in these situations, some wild +rose-bushes, which were just budding, a great quantity of young +leeks, with, triangular leaves, a small sort of grass, and some +water-cresses, which grow about the sides of the rills, besides great +abundance of _andromeda_. Within the woods, besides two sorts of +underwood shrubs unknown to us, are mosses and ferns. Of the first +of which, are seven or eight different sorts, of the last, not above +three or four, and the species of both, are mostly such as are common +to Europe and America. + +As the season of the year was unfavourable to our gaining much +knowledge of the vegetable productions of this country, so our own +situation while there, put it out of our power to learn much about +its animals. For as the want of water made it necessary that we +should enter the Sound at first, unforeseen accidents which happened +afterward, though they lengthened our stay, were rather unfavourable +to our obtaining any knowledge of this kind. The emergency of the +case required, that every person should be constantly employed in the +necessary business of the ships, which was the capital object, as the +season was advancing very fast, and the success of the voyage depended +upon their diligence and alacrity in expediting the various tasks +assigned to them. Hence it happened, that excursions of every kind, +either on the land, or by water, were never attempted. And as we lay +in a cove on an island, no other animals were ever seen alive in +the woods there, than two or three racoons, martins, and squirrels. +Besides these, some of our people who, one day, landed on the +continent, near the S.E. side of the entrance of the sound, observed +the prints of a bear's feet near the shore. The account, therefore, +that we can give of the quadrupeds, is taken from the skins which +the natives brought to sell; and these were often so mutilated with +respect to the distinguishing parts, such as the paws, tails, and +heads, that it was impossible even to guess at the animals to whom +they belonged, though others were so perfect, or at least so well +known, that they left no room to doubt about them. + +Of these the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The +bear-skins were in great numbers, few of them very large, but, in +general, of a shining black colour. The deer-skins were scarcer, +and they seem to belong to that sort called the fallow-deer by the +historians of Carolina, though Mr Pennant thinks it quite a different +species from, ours, and distinguishes it by the name of Virginian +deer.[1] The foxes are in great plenty, and of several varieties, +some of their skins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the tail, +others of a deep or reddish yellow, intermixed with black, and a third +sort of a whitish grey or ash-colour, also intermixed with black. Our +people used to apply the name of fox or wolf indiscriminately, when +the skins were so mutilated as to leave room for a doubt. But we got, +at last, an entire wolf's skin with the head on, and it was grey. +Besides the common sort of martin, the pine-martin is also here, and +another, whose skin is of a lighter brown colour than either, with +coarser hair, but is not so common, and is, perhaps, only a mere +variety arising from age, or some other accidental circumstance. The +ermine is also found at this place, but is rare and small, nor is +the hair remarkably fine, though the animal appeared to be perfectly +white, except an inch or more at the tip of the tail. The racoons and +squirrels are of the common sort; but the latter is rather smaller +than ours, and has a deeper rusty colour running along the back. + +[Footnote 1: See Virginian deer. Pennant's Hist. Quad. vol. i. No. 46, +and Arctic Zool. No.6.] + +We were clear as to the existence of all the animals already +mentioned, but there are two others besides, which we could not +distinguish with sufficient certainty. Of the first of these we saw +none of the skins, but what were dressed or tanned like leather. The +natives wear them on some occasions; and from the size as well as +the thickness, they were generally concluded to belong to the elk, or +mouse-deer, though some of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. +The other animal, which seems by no means rare, was guessed to be a +species of the wild cat or lynx. The length of the skins, without the +head, which none of them had, was about two feet two inches. They are +covered with a very fine wool or fur, of a very light-brown or whitish +yellow colour, intermixed with long hairs, which on the back, where +they are shortest, are blackish; on the sides, where they are longer, +of a silver white; and on the belly, where they are longest, of the +colour of the wool, but the whitish, or silver hairs, are often so +predominant, that the whole animal acquires a cast of that kind. The +tail is only three inches long, and has a black tip. The whole skin +being, by the natives, called _wanshee_, that, most probably, is their +name for this animal. Hogs, dogs, and goats, have not as yet found +their way to this place. Nor do the natives seem to have any knowledge +of our brown rats, to which, when they saw them on board the ships, +they applied the name they give to squirrels. And though they called +our goats _eineetla_, this, most probably, is their name for a young +deer or fawn. + +The sea-animals seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, and seals. +The last of these seem only of the common sort, judging from the +skins which we saw here, their colour being either silvery, yellowish, +plain, or spotted with black. The porpoise is the _phocena_. I have +chosen to refer to this class the sea-otter, as living mostly in the +water. It might have been sufficient to have mentioned, that this +animal abounds here, as it is fully described in different books, +taken from the accounts of the Russian adventurers in their +expeditions eastward from Kamtschatka, if there had not been a small +difference in one that we saw. We, for some time, entertained doubts, +whether the many skins which the natives brought, really belonged to +this animal, as our only reason for being of that opinion, was founded +on the size, colour, and fineness of the fur, till a short while +before our departure, when a whole one, that had been just killed, +was purchased from some strangers who came to barter; and of this Mr +Webber made a drawing. It was rather young, weighing only twenty-five +pounds, of a shining or glossy black colour, but many of the hairs +being tipt with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. +The face, throat, and breast were of a yellowish white, or very +light-brown colour, which, in many of the skins, extended the whole +length of the belly. It had six cutting teeth in each jaw, two of +those of the lower jaw being very minute, and placed without, at +the base of the two middle ones. In these circumstances, it seems to +disagree with those found by the Russians, and also in not having the +outer toes of the hind feet skirted with a membrane. There seemed also +a greater variety in the colour of the skins, than is mentioned by +the describers of the Russian sea-otters. These changes of colour +certainly take place at different gradations of life. The very +young ones had brown hair, which was coarse, with very little fur +underneath; but those of the size of the entire animal, which came +into our possession, and just described, had a considerable quantity +of that substance, and both in that colour and state the sea-otters +seem to remain, till they have attained their full growth. After that, +they lose the black colour, and assume a deep brown or sooty colour, +but have then a greater quantity of very fine fur, and scarcely any +long hairs. Others, which we suspected to be still older, were of +a chesnut-brown; and a few skins were seen that had even acquired a +perfectly yellow colour. The fur of these animals, as mentioned in +the Russian accounts, is certainly softer and finer than that of any +others we know of; and, therefore, the discovey of this part of the +continent of North America, where so valuable an article of commerce +may be met with, cannot be a matter of indifference.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Mr Coxe, on the authority of Mr Pallas, informs us, that +the old and middle-aged sea-otters' skins are sold at Kiachta, by the +Russians to the Chinese, from 80 to 180 rubles a skin, that is, from +16l. to 20l. each.--See _Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, p. 13.--D.] + +Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different species, +but very scarce as to numbers; and these few are so shy, that, in all +probability, they are continually harassed by the natives, perhaps to +eat them as food, certainly to get possession of their feathers, which +they use as ornaments. Those which frequent the woods, are crows and +ravens, not at all different from our English ones, a blueish jay or +magpie, common wrens, which are the only singing bird that we heard, +the Canadian or migrating thrush, and a considerable number of +brown eagles, with white heads and tails, which, though they seem +principally to frequent the coast, come into the Sound in bad weather, +and sometimes perch upon the trees. Amongst some other birds, of +which the natives either brought fragments, or dried skins, we could +distinguish a small species of hawk, a heron, and the _alcyon_, or +large-crested American king-fisher. There are also some, which, I +believe, are not mentioned, or at least vary, very considerably, from +the accounts given of them by any writers who have treated professedly +on this part of natural history. The two first of these are _species_ +of wood-peckers. One less than a thrush, of a black colour above, +with white spots on the wings, a crimson head, neck, and breast, and a +yellowish olive-coloured belly, from which last circumstance it might, +perhaps, not improperly be called the yellow-bellied wood-pecker. +The other is a larger, and much more elegant bird, of a dusky brown +colour, on the upper part, richly waved with black, except about the +head, the belly of a reddish cast, with round black spots, a black +spot on the breast, and the under-side of the wings and tail of a +plain scarlet colour, though blackish above, with a crimson streak +running from the angle of the mouth, a little down the neck on each +side. The third and fourth, are a small bird of the finch kind, about +the size of a linnet, of a dark dusky colour, whitish below, with a +black head and neck, and white bill; and a sand-piper, of the size of +a small pigeon, of a dusky brown colour, and white below, except the +throat and breast, with a broad white band across the wings. There are +also humming-birds, which yet seem to differ from the numerous sorts +of this delicate animal already known, unless they be a mere variety +of the _trochilus colubris_ of Linnaeus. These, perhaps, inhabit more +to the southward, and spread northward as the season advances; because +we saw none at first, though, near the time of our departure, the +natives brought them to the ships in great numbers. + +The birds which frequent the waters and the shores, are not more +numerous than the others. The quebrantahuessos, gulls, and shags, were +seen off the coast, and the two last also frequent the Sound. They are +of the common sorts, the shags being our cormorant or water-crow. We +saw two sorts of wild-ducks; one black, with a white head, which were +in considerable flocks, the other white, with a red bill, but of a +larger size; and the greater _lumme_, or diver, found in our northern +countries. There were also seen, once or twice, some swans flying +across the Sound to the northward, but we knew nothing of their +haunts. On the shores, besides the sand-piper, described above, we +found another, about the size of a lark, which bears a great affinity +to the burre, and a plover differing very little from our common +sea-lark. + +Fish are more plentiful in quantity than birds, though the variety is +not very great; and yet, from several circumstances, it is probable, +that even the variety is considerably increased at certain seasons. +The principal sorts, which we found in great numbers, are the common +herring, but scarcely exceeding seven inches in length; a smaller +sort, which is the same with the anchovy, or sardine, though rather +larger; a white, or silver-coloured bream, and another of a gold-brown +colour, with many narrow longitudinal blue stripes. The herrings and +sardines, doubtless, come in large shoals, and only at stated seasons, +as is common with that sort of fish. The bream of both sorts, may +be reckoned the next to these in quantity; and the full-grown ones +weighed, at least, a pound. The other fish, which are all scarce, +are a small brown kind of _sculpin_, such as is found on the coast +of Norway, another of a brownish red cast, frost-fish, a large one, +somewhat resembling the bull-head, with a tough skin, destitute of +scales; and now and then, toward the time of our leaving the Sound, +the natives brought a small brownish cod, spotted with white, and a +red fish of the same size, which some of our people said they had seen +in the strait of Magalhaens, besides another differing little from +the hake. There are also considerable numbers of those fish called the +_chimaerae_, or little sea-wolves, by some, which is akin to, and about +the size of, the _pezegallo_, or elephant-fish. Sharks, likewise, +sometimes frequent the Sound, for the natives have some of their teeth +in their possession; and we saw some pieces of ray, or scate, which +seemed to have been pretty large. The other marine animals that ought +to be mentioned here, are a small cruciated _medusa_, or blubber, +star-fish, which differ somewhat from the common ones, two small sorts +of crabs, and two others which the natives brought, one of them of +a thick, tough, gelatinous consistence, and the other a sort of +membranaceous tube or pipe, both which are probably taken from +the rocks. And we, also, purchased from them once a very large +cuttle-fish. + +There is abundance of large muscles about the rocks, many sea-ears, +and we often saw shells of pretty large plain _chamae_. The smaller +sorts are some _trochi_ of two species, a curious _murex_, rugged +wilks, and a snail, all which are, probably, peculiar to this place, +at least I do not recollect to have seen them in any country near the +same latitude in either hemisphere. There are, besides these, some +small plain cockles, limpets; and some strangers, who come into the +Sound, wore necklaces of a small blueish _volute_ or _panamae_. Many of +the muscles are a span in length, and some having pretty large pearls, +which, however, are both badly shaped and coloured. We may conclude, +that there is red coral in the Sound, or somewhere upon the coast, +some thick pieces, or branches, having been seen in the canoes of the +natives. + +The only animals of the reptile kind observed here, and found in the +woods, were brown snakes two feet long, with whitish stripes on the +back and sides, which are harmless, as we often saw the natives carry +them alive in their hands; and brownish water-lizards, with a tail +exactly like that of an eel, which frequented the small standing pools +about the rocks. + +The insect tribe seem to be more numerous. For though the season, +which is peculiarly fitted to their appearing abroad, was only +beginning, we saw four or five different sorts of butterflies, none +of which were uncommon, a good many humble-bees, some of our common +gooseberry moths, two or three sorts of flies, a few beetles, and some +musquitoes, which, probably, may be more numerous and troublesome in +a country so full of wood, during the summer, though at this time they +did little mischief. + +As to the mineral substances in this country, though we found both +iron and copper here, there is little reason to believe that either of +them belong to the place. Neither were the ores of any metal seen, +if we except a coarse, red, earthy, or ochry substance, used by the +natives in painting themselves, which probably may contain a little +iron, with a white and a black pigment used for the same purpose. But +we did not procure specimens of them, and therefore cannot positively +determine what are their component parts. + +Besides the stone or rock that constitutes the mountains and shores, +which sometimes contains pieces of very coarse _quartz_, we found +amongst the natives, things made of a hard black _granite_, though not +remarkably compact or fine grained, a greyish whetstone, the common +oil-stone of our carpenters, in coarser and finer pieces, and some +black bits which are little inferior to the hone-stone. The natives +also use the transparent leafy _glimmer_, or Muscovy glass, a brown +leafy or martial sort, and they sometimes brought to us pieces of +rock-crystal, tolerably transparent. The two first are, probably, +found near the spot, as they seemed to be in considerable quantities; +but the latter seems to be brought from a greater distance, or is very +scarce; for our visitors always parted with it reluctantly. Some of +the pieces were octangular, and had the appearance of being formed +into that shape by art. + +The persons of the natives are, in general, under the common stature; +but not slender in proportion, being commonly pretty full or plump, +though not muscular. Neither doth the soft fleshiness seem ever to +swell into corpulence; and many of the older people are rather spare +or lean. The visage of most of them is round and full, and sometimes +also broad, with high prominent cheeks; and, above these, the face is +frequently much depressed, or seems fallen in quite across between +the temples; the nose also flattening at its base, with pretty wide +nostrils, and a rounded point. The forehead rather low, the eyes +small, black, and rather languishing than sparkling; the mouth round, +with large round thickish lips, the teeth tolerably equal and well +set, but not remarkably white. They have either no beards at all, +which was most commonly the case, or a small thin one upon the point +of the chin, which does not arise from any natural defect of hair on +that part, but from plucking it out more or less; for some of them, +particularly the old men, have not only considerable beards all over +the chin, but whiskers or mustachios, both on the upper lip, and +running from thence toward the lower jaw obliquely downward.[3] Their +eye-brows are also scanty, and always narrow; but the hair of the head +is in great abundance, very coarse and strong, and, without a single +exception, black, straight, and dank, or hanging down over the +shoulders. The neck is short, the arms and body have no particular +mark of beauty or elegance in their formation, but are rather clumsy; +and the limbs in all are very small in proportion to the other parts, +and crooked or ill-made, with large feet badly shaped, and projecting +ancles. Their last defect seems in a great measure to arise from +their sitting so much on their hams or knees, both in their canoes and +houses. + +[Footnote 3: One of the most curious singularities observable in the +natural history of the human species, is the supposed defect in +the habit and temperature of the bodies of the American Indians, +exemplified in their having no beards, while they are furnished with +a profusion of hair on their heads. M. de Paw, the ingenious author +of Recherches sur les Americains, Dr Robertson, in his History of +America, and, in general, the writers for whose authority we ought to +have the highest deference, adopt this as an indisputable matter +of fact. May we not be permitted to request those who espouse their +sentiments, to reconsider the question, when we can produce Captain +Cook's evidence on the opposite side, at least so far as relates to +the American tribe, whom he had intercourse with at Nootka? Nor is +Captain Cook singular in his report. What he saw on the sea coast, +Captain Carver also met with amongst the American Indians far up in +the country. His words are as follow:--"From minute enquiries, and a +curious inspection, I am able to declare (however respectable I may +hold the authority of these historians in other points), that their +assertions are erroneous, and proceeding from a want of a thorough +knowledge of the customs of the Indians. After the age of puberty, +their bodies, in their natural state, are covered in the same manner +as those of the Europeans. The men, indeed, esteem a beard very +unbecoming, and take great pains to get rid of it, nor is there any +ever to be perceived on their faces, except when they grow old, and +become inattentive to appearances.--The Naudowesses, and the remote +nations, pluck them out with bent pieces of hard wood, formed into a +kind of nippers, whilst those who have communication with Europeans, +procure from them wire, which they twist into a screw or worm; +applying this to the part, they press the rings together, and with +a sudden twitch, draw out all the hairs that are inclosed in +them."--_Carver's Travels_, p. 224, 225. The remark made by Mr +Marsden, who also quotes Carver, is worth attending to, that the visor +or mask of Montezuma's armour, preserved at Brussels, has remarkably +large whiskers; and that those Americans could not have imitated +this ornament, unless nature had presented them with the model. +From Captain Cook's observation on the west coast of North America, +combined with Carver's in the inland parts of that continent, and +confirmed by the Mexican vizor as above, there seems abundant reason +to agree with Mr Marsden, who thus modestly expresses himself: "Were +it not for the numerous and very respectable authorities, from which +we are assured that the natives of America are naturally beardless, I +should think that the common opinion on that subject had been hastily +adopted; and that their appearing thus at a mature age, was only the +consequence of an early practice, similar to that observed among the +Sumatrans. Even now, I must confess, that it would remove some small +degree of doubt from my mind, could it be ascertained that no such +custom prevails."--_Marsden's History of Sumatra_, p. 39, 40.--D.] + +Their colour we could never positively determine, as their bodies were +incrusted with paint and dirt; though, in particular cases, when these +were well rubbed off, the whiteness of the skin appeared almost to +equal that of Europeans; though rather of that pale effete cast which +distinguishes those of our southern nations. Their children, whose +skins had never been stained with paint, also equalled ours in +whiteness. During their youth, some of them have no disagreeable look, +if compared to the generality of the people, but this seems to be +entirely owing to the particular animation attending that period +of life; for, after attaining a certain age, there is hardly any +distinction. Upon the whole, a very remarkable sameness seems to +characterize the countenances of the whole nation; a dull phlegmatic +want of expression, with very little variation, being strongly marked +in all of them. + +The women are nearly of the same size, colour, and form with the +men, from whom it is not easy to distinguish them, as they possess no +natural delicacies sufficient to render their persons agreeable; and +hardly any one was seen, even amongst those who were in the prime of +life, who had the least pretensions to be called handsome. + +Their common dress is a flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented on +the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and, at the lower edge, by +fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied over the +right shoulder, by a string before and one behind, near its middle, by +which means both arms are left free, and it hangs evenly, covering the +left side, but leaving the right open, except from the loose part of +the edges falling upon it, unless when the mantle is fastened by a +girdle (of coarse matting or woollen) round the waist, which is often +done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small cloak +of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape +this resembles a round dish-cover, being quite close, except in the +middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head, and +then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows, +and the body as far as the waist. Their head is covered with a cap, +of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of fine +matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or pointed +knob, or bunch of leather tassels, and there is a string that passes +under the chin, to prevent its blowing off. + +Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the men +frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, +or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and tie it as a cloak near the +upper part, wearing it sometimes before and sometimes behind. In rainy +weather, they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have +also woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The hair is +commonly worn hanging down loose; but some, when they have no cap, tie +it in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their dress, upon the whole, +is convenient, and would, by no means be inelegant, were it kept +clean. But as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint, +of a clayey or coarse ochry substance, mixed with oil, their garments, +by this means, contract a rancid offensive smell, and a greasy +nastiness; so that they make a very wretched dirty appearance, and +what is still worse, their heads and their garments swarm with vermin, +which, so depraved is their taste for cleanliness, we used to see them +pick off with great composure and eat. + +Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, their faces are +often stained with a black, a brighter red, or a white colour, by +way of ornament. The last of these gives them a ghastly, disgusting +aspect. They also strew the brown martial _mica_ upon the paint, which +makes it glitter. The ears of many of them are perforated in the lobe, +where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on the +outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of bone, quills fixed upon a +leathern thong, small shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of +thin copper, which our beads could never supplant. The _septum_ of the +nose, in many, is also perforated, through which they draw a piece of +soft cord; and others wear, at the same place, small thin pieces of +iron, brass, or copper, shaped almost like a horse-shoe, the narrow +opening of which receives the _septum_, so as that the two points may +gently pinch it, and the ornament thus hangs over the upper lip. +The rings of our brass buttons, which they eagerly purchased, were +appropriated to this use. About their wrists they wore bracelets +or bunches of white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly substance, +bunches of thongs, with tassels, or a broad black shining horny +substance, of one piece. And about their ancles they also frequently +wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the sinews of animals twisted +to a considerable thickness. + +Thus far of their ordinary dress and ornaments; but they have some +that seem to be used only on extraordinary occasions, either when they +exhibit themselves as strangers, in visits of ceremony, or when they +go to war. Amongst the first may be considered the skins of animals, +such as wolves or bears, tied on in the usual manner, but ornamented +at the edges with broad borders of fur, or of the woollen stuff +manufactured by them, ingeniously wrought with various figures. These +are worn either separately, or over their own common garments. On +such occasions, the most common head-dress is a quantity of withe, or +half-beaten bark, wrapped about the head, which, at the same time, has +various large feathers, particularly those of eagles, stuck in it, +or is entirely covered, or we may say, powdered with small white +feathers. The face, at the same time, is variously painted, having its +upper and lower parts of different colours, the strokes appearing like +fresh gashes, or it is besmeared with a kind of tallow, mixed with +paint, which is afterward formed into a great variety of regular +figures, and appears like carved work. Sometimes, again, the hair is +separated into small parcels, which are tied at intervals of about two +inches, to the end, with thread, and others tie it together behind, +after our manner, and stick branches of the _cypressus thyoides_ in +it. Thus dressed, they have a truly savage and incongruous appearance, +but this is much heightened when they assume, what may be called, +their monstrous decorations. These consist of an endless variety of +carved wood masks or vizors, applied on the face, or to the upper part +of the head or forehead. Some of these resemble human faces, furnished +with hair, beards, and eye-brows; others, the heads of birds, +particularly of eagles and quebrantahuessos, and many, the heads of +land and sea-animals, such as wolves, deer, and porpoises, and others. +But, in general, these representations much exceed the natural size, +and they are painted, and often strewed with pieces of the foliaceous +_mica_, which makes them glitter, and, serves to augment their +enormous deformity. They even exceed this sometimes, and fix on the +same part of the head large pieces of carved work, resembling the +prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner, and projecting to a +considerable distance. So fond are they of these disguises, that I +have seen one of them put his head into a tin kettle he had got +from us, for want of another sort of mask. Whether they use these +extravagant masquerade ornaments on any particular religious occasion, +or diversion, or whether they be put on to intimidate their enemies +when they go to battle, by their monstrous appearance, or as decoys +when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. But it may be concluded, +that, if travellers or voyagers, in an ignorant and credulous age, +when many unnatural or marvellous things were supposed to exist, had +seen a number of people decorated in this manner, without being able +to approach so near as to be undeceived, they would readily have +believed, and, in their relations, would have attempted to make others +believe, that there existed a race of beings, partaking of the nature +of man and beast, more especially, when, besides the heads of animals +on the human shoulders, they might have seen the whole bodies of their +men-monsters covered with quadrupeds' skins.[4] + +[Footnote 4: The reflection in the text may furnish the admirers of +Herodotus, in particular, with an excellent apology for some of his +wonderful tales of this sort.--D.] + +The only dress amongst the people of Nootka, observed by us, that +seems peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick leathern mantle doubled, +which, from its size, appears to be the skin of an elk or buffalo, +tanned. This they fasten on, in the common manner, and it is so +contrived, that it may reach up, and cover the breast quite to +the throat, falling, at the same time, almost to the heels. It is, +sometimes, ingeniously painted in different compartments; and is not +only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by +signs, even spears cannot pierce it, so that it may be considered as +their coat of mail, or most complete defensive armour. Upon the same +occasion, they sometimes wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered +with rows of dried hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by +leathern thongs, covered with quills, which, when they move, make a +round rattling noise, almost equal to that of many small bells. It +seems doubtful, however, whether this part of their garb be intended +to strike terror in war, or is only to be considered as belonging to +their eccentric ornaments on ceremonious occasions. For we saw one of +their musical entertainments, conducted by a man dressed in this sort +of cloak, with his mask on, and shaking his rattle. + +Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of horror, when +equipped in such extravagant dresses, yet, when divested of them, +and beheld in their common habit and actions, they have not the +least appearance of ferocity in their countenances; and seem, on +the contrary, as observed already, to be of a quiet, phlegmatic, and +inactive disposition, destitute, in some measure, of that degree of +animation and vivacity that would render them agreeable as social +beings. If they are not reserved, they are far from being loquacious; +but their gravity is, perhaps, rather a consequence of the disposition +just mentioned, than of any conviction of its propriety, or the +effect of any particular mode of education. For, even in the greatest +paroxysms of their rage, they seem unable to express it sufficiently; +either with warmth of language, or significancy of gestures. + +Their orations, which are made either when engaged in any altercation +or dispute, or to explain their sentiments publicly on other +occasions, seem little more than short sentences, or rather single +words, forcibly repeated, and constantly in one tone and degree of +strength, accompanied only with a single gesture, which they use at +every sentence, jerking their whole body a little forward, by bending +the knees, their arms hanging down by their sides at the same time. + +Though there is but too much reason, from their bringing to sale human +skulls and bones, to infer that they treat their enemies with a degree +of brutal cruelty, this circumstance rather marks a general agreement +of character with that of almost every tribe of uncivilized man, in +every age, and in every part of the globe, than that they are to be +reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. We had no reason to +judge unfavourably of their disposition in this respect. They seem to +be a docile, courteous, good-natured people; but, notwithstanding the +predominant phlegm of their tempers, quick in resenting what they look +upon as an injury, and, like most other passionate people, as soon +forgetting it. I never found that these fits of passion went farther +than the parties immediately concerned, the spectators not troubling +themselves about the quarrel, whether it was with any of us, or +amongst their own body, and preserving as much indifference as if they +had not known any thing about it. I have often seen one of them rave +and scold, without any of his countrymen paying the least attention +to his agitation; and when none of us could trace the cause, or the +object of his displeasure. In such cases they never discover the least +symptom of timidity, but seem determined, at all events, to punish the +insult. For, even with respect to us, they never appeared to be under +the least apprehension of our superiority; but when any difference +happened, were just as ready to avenge the wrong, as amongst +themselves. + +Their other passions, especially their curiosity, appear in some +measure to lie dormant. For few expressed any desire to see or examine +things wholly unknown to them; and which, to those truly possessed +of that passion, would have appeared astonishing. They were always +contented to procure the articles they knew and wanted, regarding +every thing else with great indifference; nor did our persons, +apparel, and manners, so differ from their own, or even the +extraordinary size and construction of our ships, seem to excite +admiration, or even engage attention. + +One cause of this may be their indolence, which seems considerable. +But, on the other hand, they are certainly not wholly unsusceptible +of the tender passions; if we may judge from their being so fond of +music, which is mostly of the grave or serious, but truly pathetic +sort. They keep the exactest concert in their songs, which are often +sung by great numbers together, as those already mentioned, with which +they used to entertain us in their canoes. These are generally slow +and solemn; but the music is not of that confined sort found +amongst many rude nations, for the variations are very numerous and +expressive, and the cadence or melody powerfully soothing. Besides +their full concerts, sonnets of the same grave cast were frequently +sung by single performers, who keep time by striking the hand +against the thigh. However, the music was sometimes varied, from its +predominant solemnity of air; and there were instances of stanzas +being sung in a more gay and lively strain, and even with a degree of +humour. + +The only instruments of music (if such they may be called) which I saw +amongst them, were a rattle, and a small whistle, about an inch long, +incapable of any variation, from having but one hole. They use the +rattle when they sing; but upon what occasions they use the whistle +I know not, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular +animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I once saw one +of them dressed in a wolf's skin, with the head over his own, and +imitating that animal by making a squeaking noise with one of these +whistles, which he had in his mouth. The rattles are, for the most +part, made in the shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly; +and the tail is the handle. They have others, however, that bear +rather more resemblance to a child's rattle. + +In trafficking with us, some of them would betray a knavish +disposition, and carry off our goods without making any return. But, +in general, it was otherwise; and we had abundant reason to commend +the fairness of their conduct. However, their eagerness to possess +iron and brass, and, indeed, any kind of metal, was so great, that +few of them could resist the temptation to steal it, whenever an +opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, as +appears from a variety of instances in the course of this voyage, +rather than be idle, would steal any thing that they could lay their +hands upon, without ever considering, whether it could be of use to +them or no. The novelty of the object, with them, was a sufficient +motive for their endeavouring, by any indirect means, to get +possession of it; which marked that, in such cases, they were rather +actuated by a childish curiosity, than by a dishonest disposition, +regardless of the modes of supplying real wants. The inhabitants of +Nootka, who invaded our property, cannot have such apology made for +them. They were thieves in the strictest sense of the word; for they +pilfered nothing from us, but what they knew could be converted to the +purposes of private utility, and had a real value according to their +estimation of things. And it was lucky for us, that nothing was +thought valuable by them, but the single articles of our metals. +Linen, and such like things, were perfectly secure from their +depredations, and we could safely leave them hanging out ashore all +night, without watching. The same principle which prompted our Nootka +friends to pilfer from us, it was natural to suppose, would produce +a similar conduct in their intercourse with each other. And, +accordingly, we had abundant reason to believe, that stealing is +much practised amongst them, and that it chiefly gives rise to their +quarrels, of which we saw more than one instance. + + +SECTION III. + +_Manner of Building the Homes in Nootka Sound.--Inside of them +described.--Furniture and Utensils.--Wooden Images.--Employments +of the Men.--Of the Women.--Food, Animal and Vegetable.--Manner of +preparing it.--Weapons.--Manufactures and Mechanic Arts.--Carving +and Painting.--Canoes.--Implements for Fishing and Hunting.--Iron +Tools.--Manner of procuring that Metal.--Remarks on their Language, +and a Specimen of it.--Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in +Nootka Sound._ + +The two towns or villages, mentioned in the course of my journal, seem +to be the only inhabited part of the Sound. The number of inhabitants +in both might be pretty exactly computed from the canoes that were +about the ships the second day after our arrival. They amounted to +about a hundred; which, at a very moderate allowance, must, upon an +average, have held five persons each. But as there were scarcely any +women, very old men, children, or youths amongst them at that time, +I think it will rather be rating the number of the inhabitants of the +two towns too low, if we suppose they could be less than four times +the number of our visitors, that is, two thousand in the whole. + +The village at the entrance of the Sound stands on the side of a +rising ground, which has a pretty steep ascent from the beach to the +verge of the wood, in which space it is situated. + +The houses are disposed in three ranges or rows, rising gradually +behind each other, the largest being that in front, and the others +less, besides a few straggling, or single ones, at each end. These +ranges are interrupted or disjoined at irregular distances, by +narrow paths, or lanes, that pass upward; but those which run in the +direction of the houses, between the rows, are much broader. Though +there be some appearance of regularity in this disposition, there +is none in the single houses, for each of the divisions, made by the +paths, may be considered either as one house, or as many, there +being no regular or complete separation, either without or within, to +distinguish them by. They are built of very long and broad planks[1], +resting upon the edges of each other, fastened or tied by withes +of pine bark here and there, and have only slender posts, or rather +poles, at considerable distances on the outside, to which they also +are tied, but within are some larger poles placed aslant. The height +of the sides and ends of these habitations, is seven or eight feet; +but the back part is a little higher, by which means, the planks that +compose the roof slant forward, and are laid on loose, so as to be +moved about, either to be put close to exclude the rain, or, in fair +weather, to be separated, to let in the light and carry out the +smoke. They are, however, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and +constructed with little care or ingenuity. For, though the side-planks +be made to fit pretty closely in some places, in others they are +quite open, and there are no regular doors into them, the only way +of entrance being either by a hole, where the unequal length of the +planks has accidentally left an opening, or, in some cases, the planks +are made to pass a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two +feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There are also holes, +or windows, in the sides of the houses to look out at; but without any +regularity of shape or disposition; and these have bits of mat hung +before them, to prevent the rain getting in. + +[Footnote 1: The habitations of the natives, more to the north upon +this coast, where Behring's people landed in 1741, seem to resemble +those of Nootka. Muller describes them thus: "Ces cabanes etoient de +bois revetu de planches bien unies, et meme enchainees en quelques +endroits."--Muller, _Decouvertes_, p. 255.--D.] + +On the inside, one may frequently see from one end to the other of +these ranges of building without interruption. For though, in general, +there be the rudiments, or rather vestiges, of separations on each +side, for the accommodation of different families, they are such as do +not intercept the sight; and often consist of no more than pieces of +plank, running from the side toward the middle of the house; so that, +if they were complete, the whole might be compared to a long stable, +with a double range of stalls, and a broad passage in the middle. +Close to the sides, in each of these parts, is a little bench of +boards, raised five or six inches higher than the rest of the floor, +and covered with mats on which the family sit and sleep. These benches +are commonly seven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In +the middle of the floor, between them, is the fire-place, which has +neither hearth nor chimney. In one house, which was in the end of a +middle range, almost quite separated from the rest by a high close +partition, and the most regular, as to design, of any that I saw, +there were four of these benches, each of which held a single family, +at a corner, but without any separation by boards, and the middle part +of the house appeared common to them all. + +Their furniture consists chiefly of a great number of chests and boxes +of all sizes, which are generally piled upon each other, close to the +sides or ends of the house, and contain their spare garments, skins, +masks, and other things which they set a value upon. Some of these are +double, or one covers the other as a lid, others have a lid fastened +with thongs, and some of the very large ones have a square hole, or +scuttle, cut in the upper part, by which the things are put in and +taken out. They are often painted black, studded with the teeth of +different animals, or carved with a kind of freeze-work, and figures +of birds or animals, as decorations. Their other domestic utensils +are mostly square and oblong pails or buckets to hold water and other +things, round wooden cups and bowls, and small shallow wooden troughs, +about two feet long, out of which they eat their food, and baskets of +twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their fishing implements, and other things +also, lie or hang up in different parts of the house, but without the +least order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion; +and the only places that do not partake of this confusion are the +sleeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats, which are +also cleaner, or of a finer sort, than those they commonly have to sit +on in their boats. + +The nastiness and stench of their houses are, however, at least equal +to the confusion. For as they dry their fish within doors, they also +gut them there, which, with their bones and fragments, thrown down at +meals, and the addition of other sorts of filth, lie every where +in heaps, and are, I believe, never carried away till it becomes +troublesome, from their size, to walk over them. In a word, their +houses are as filthy as hog-sties; every thing in and about them +stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. + +But, amidst all the filth and confusion that are found in the houses, +many of them are decorated with images. These are nothing more than +the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly, +or by pairs, at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved +into a human face; the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and +variously painted; so that the whole is a truly monstrous figure. +The general name of these images is _Klumma_; and the names of two +particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four +feet asunder, in one of the houses, were _Natchkoa_ and _Matseeta_. Mr +Webber's view of the inside of a Nootka house, in which these +images are represented, conveys a more perfect idea of them than any +description. A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part, hung before +them, which the natives were not willing, at all times, to remove; +and when they did unveil them, they seemed to speak of them in a very +mysterious manner. It should seem, that they are at times accustomed +to make offerings to them; if we can draw this inference from their +desiring us, as we interpreted their signs, to give something to these +images, when they drew aside the mats that covered them.[2] It was +natural, from these circumstances, for us to think, that they were +representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or +superstitious object: and yet we had proofs of the little real +estimation they were in; for, with a small quantity of iron or brass, +I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the +place. I did not see one that was not offered to me; and I actually +got two or three of the very smallest sort. + +[Footnote 2: It should seem, that Mr Webber was obliged to repeat his +offerings pretty frequently before he could be permitted to finish his +drawing of these images. The following account is in his own words: +"After having made a general view of their habitations, I sought for +an inside, which might furnish me with sufficient matter to convey +a perfect idea of the mode in which these people live. Such was soon +found. While I was employed, a man approached me with a large knife +in his hand, seemingly displeased, when he observed that my eyes were +fixed on two representations of human figures, which were placed at +one end of the apartment, carved on planks, of a gigantic proportion, +and painted after their custom. However, I took as little notice of +him as possible, and proceeded; to prevent which, he soon provided +himself with a mat, and placed it in such a manner as to hinder my +having any longer a sight of them. Being pretty certain that I could +have no future opportunity to finish my drawing, and the object being +too interesting to be omitted, I considered that a little bribery +might probably have some effect. Accordingly, I made an offer of a +button from my coat, which, being of metal, I thought they would be +pleased with. This, instantly, produced the desired effect. For the +mat was removed, and I was left at liberty to proceed as before. +Scarcely had I seated myself, and made a beginning, when he returned, +and renewed his former practice, continuing it till I had parted with +every single button; and when he saw that he had completely stripped +me, I met with no farther obstruction."--D.] + +The chief employment of the men seems to be that of fishing, and +killing land or sea animals for the sustenance of their families; for +we saw few of them doing any thing in the houses; whereas the women +were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and +in preparing the sardines for drying; which they also carry up from +the beach in twig-baskets, after the men have brought them in their +canoes. The women are also sent in the small canoes to gather muscles, +and other shell-fish, and perhaps on some other occasions; for they +manage these with as much dexterity as the men; who, when in the +canoes with them, seem to pay little attention to their sex, by +offering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle; nor indeed +do they treat them with any particular respect or tenderness in other +situations. The young men appeared to be the most indolent or idle set +in this community; for they were either sitting about, in scattered +companies, to bask themselves in the sun, or lay wallowing in the sand +upon the beach, like a number of hogs, for the same purpose, without +any covering. But this disregard of decency was confined to the men. +The women were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost +propriety; justly deserving all commendation for a bashfulness and +modesty becoming their sex; but more meritorious in them, as the men +seem to have no sense of shame. It is impossible, however, that we +should have been able to observe the exact mode of their domestic +life and employments, from a single visit (as the first was quite +transitory) of a few hours. For it may be easily supposed, that, on +such an occasion, most of the labour of all the inhabitants of the +village would cease upon our arrival, and an interruption be given +even to the usual manner of appearing in their houses, during their +more remiss or sociable hours, when left to themselves. We were much +better enabled to form some judgment of their disposition, and, in +some measure, even of their method of living, from the frequent visits +so many of them paid us at our ships in their canoes; in which, it +would seem, they spend a great deal of time, at least in the summer +season. For we observed, that they not only eat and sleep frequently +in them, but strip off their clothes and lay themselves along to +bask in the sun, in the same manner as we had seen practised at their +village. Their canoes of the larger sort are, indeed, sufficiently +spacious for that purpose, and perfectly dry; so that, under shelter +of a skin, they are, except in rainy weather, much more comfortable +habitations than their houses. + +Though their food, strictly speaking, may be said to consist of every +thing animal or vegetable that they can procure, the quantity of the +latter bears an exceeding small proportion to that of the former. +Their greatest reliance seems to be upon the sea, as affording fish, +muscles, and smaller shell-fish, and sea-animals. Of the first, +the principal are herrings and sardines; the two species of bream, +formerly mentioned, and small cod. But the herrings and sardines are +not only eaten fresh, in their season, but likewise serve as stores, +which, after being dried and smoked, are preserved, by being sewed +up in mats, so as to form large bales, three or four feet square. It +seems that the herrings also supply them with another grand resource +for food; which is a vast quantity of roe, very curiously prepared. It +is strewed upon, or as it were incrustated about small branches of +the Canadian pine. They also prepare it upon a long narrow sea-grass, +which grows plentifully upon the rocks, under water. This _caviare_, +if it may be so called, is kept in baskets or bags of mat, and used +occasionally, being first dipped in water. It may be considered as the +winter bread of these people, and has no disagreeable taste. They also +eat the roe of some other fish, which, from the size of its grains, +must be very large; but it has a rancid taste and smell. It does not +appear that they prepare any other fish in this manner, to preserve +them for any length of time. For though they split and dry a few of +the bream and _chimaerae_, which are pretty plentiful, they do not smoke +them as the herrings and sardines. + +The next article, on which they seem to depend for a large proportion +of their food, is the large muscle; great abundance of which are found +in the Sound. These are roasted in their shells, then stuck upon +long wooden-skewers, and taken off occasionally as wanted; being eat +without any other preparation, though they often dip them in oil as a +sauce. The other marine productions, such as the smaller shell-fish, +though they contribute to increase the general stock, are by no means +to be looked upon as a standing or material article of their food, +when compared to those just mentioned. + +Of the sea-animals, the most common that we saw in use amongst them as +food is the porpoise; the fat or rind of which, as well as the flesh, +they cut in large pieces, and having dried them, as they do the +herrings, eat them without any farther preparation. They also prepare +a sort of broth from this animal, in its fresh state, in a singular +manner, putting pieces of it in a square wooden vessel or bucket, with +water, and then throwing heated stones into it. This operation +they repeat till they think the contents are sufficiently stewed or +seethed. They put in the fresh, and take out the other stones, with +a cleft stick, which serves as tongs; the vessel being always placed +near the fire for that purpose. This is a pretty common dish amongst +them, and, from its appearance, seems to be strong, nourishing food. +The oil which they procure from these and other sea-animals, is also +used by them in great quantities; both supping it alone, with a large +scoop or spoon made of horn, or mixing it with other food, as sauce. + +It may also be presumed, that they feed upon other sea-animals, such +as seals, sea-otters, and whales; not only from the skins of the +two first being frequent amongst them, but from the great number of +implements of all sorts intended to destroy these different animals; +which clearly points out their dependence upon them; though perhaps +they do not catch them in great plenty, at all seasons; which seemed +to be the case while we lay there, as no great number of fresh skins, +or pieces of the flesh, were seen. + +The same might, perhaps, be said of the land-animals, which, though +doubtless the natives sometimes kill them, appeared to be scarce at +this time; as we did not see a single piece of the flesh belonging +to any of them; and though their skins be in tolerable plenty, it is +probable that many of these are procured by traffic from other tribes. +Upon the whole, it seems plain, from a variety of circumstances, that +these people procure almost all their animal food from the sea, if we +except a few birds, of which the gulls or sea-fowl, which they shoot +with their arrows, are the most material. + +As the Canadian pine-branches and sea-grass, on which the fish roe is +strewed, may be considered as their only winter vegetables; so, as +the spring advances, they make use of several others as they come in +season. The most common of these, which we observed, were two sorts of +liliaceous roots, one simply tunicated, the other granulated upon +its surface, called _mahkatte_ and _koohquoppa_, which have a mild +sweetish taste, and are mucilaginous, and eaten raw. The next, which +they have in great quantities, is a root called _aheita_, resembling, +in taste, our liquorice; and another fern root, whose leaves were not +yet disclosed. They also eat, raw, another small, sweetish, insipid +root, about the thickness of _sarsaparilla_; but we were ignorant of +the plant to which it belongs; and also of another root, which is very +large and palmated, which we saw them dig tip near the Village, and +afterward eat it. It is also probable, that, as the season advances, +they have many others, which we did not see. For, though there be no +appearance of cultivation amongst them, there are great quantities of +alder, gooseberry, and currant bushes, whose fruits they may eat in +their natural state, as we have seen them eat the leaves of the last, +and of the lilies, just as they were plucked from the plant. It must, +however, be observed, that one of the conditions which they seem to +require, in all food, is, that it should be of the bland, or less +acrid kind; for they would not eat the leek or garlic, though they +brought vast quantities to sell, when they understood we were fond +of it. Indeed, they seemed to have no relish for any of our food; +and when offered spirituous liquors, they rejected them as something +unnatural and disgusting to the palate. + +Though they sometimes eat small marine animals in their fresh state, +raw, it is their common practice to roast or broil their food; for +they are quite ignorant of our method of boiling; unless we allow that +of preparing their porpoise broth is such; and indeed their vessels +being all of wood, they are quite insufficient for this purpose. + +Their manner of eating is exactly consonant to the nastiness of their +houses and persons; for the troughs and platters, in which they put +their food, appear never to have been washed from the time they were +first made, and the dirty remains of a former meal are only sweeped +away by the succeeding one. They also tear every thing solid, or +tough, to pieces, with their hands and teeth; for, though they make +use of their knives to cut off the larger portions, they have not, as +yet, thought of reducing these to smaller pieces and mouthfuls by the +same means, though obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they +seem to have no idea of cleanliness; for they eat the roots which +they dig from the ground, without so much as shaking off the soil that +adheres to them. + +We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals; for we have seen +them eat at all hours in their canoes. And yet, from seeing several +messes of the porpoise broth preparing toward noon, when we visited +the village, I should suspect that they make a principal meal about +that time. + +Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short truncheons +of bone, somewhat like the _patoo patoo_ of New Zealand, and a small +pick-axe, not unlike the common American _tomahawk_. The spear has +generally a long point, made of bone. Some of the arrows are pointed +with iron; but most commonly their points were of indented bone. The +tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed at one end, and +the other end fixed into a handle of wood. This handle resembles +the head and neck of the human figure; and the stone is fixed in the +mouth, so as to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the +resemblance still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. This +weapon they call _taaweesh_, or _tsuskeeah_. They have another stone +weapon called _seeaik_, nine inches or a foot long, with a square +point. + +From the number of stone weapons and others, we might almost conclude, +that it is their custom to engage in close fight; and we had too +convincing proofs that their wars are both frequent and bloody, from +the vast number of human sculls which they brought to sell. + +Their manufactures and mechanic arts are far more extensive and +ingenious, whether we regard the design or the execution, than could +have been expected from the natural disposition of the people, and +the little progress that civilization has made amongst them in other +respects. The flaxen and woollen garments, with which they cover +themselves, must necessarily engage their first care; and are the most +material of those that can be racked under the head of manufactures. +The former of these are made of the bark of a pine-tree, beat into a +hempen state. It is not spun, but, after being properly prepared, is +spread upon a stick, which is fastened across to two others that stand +upright. It is disposed in such a manner, that the manufacturer, who +sits on her hams at this simple machine, knots it across with small +plaited threads, at the distance of half an inch from each other. +Though, by this method, it be not so close or firm as cloth that is +woven, the bunches between the knots make it sufficiently impervious +to the air, by filling the interstices; and it has the additional +advantage of being softer and more pliable. The woollen garments, +though probably manufactured in the same manner, have the strongest +resemblance to woven cloth. But the various figures, which are very +artificially inserted in them, destroy the supposition of their being +wrought in a loom; it being extremely unlikely that these people +should be so dexterous as to be able to finish such a complex work, +unless immediately by their hands. They are of different degrees of +fineness; some resembling our coarsest rugs or blankets; and others +almost equal to our finest sorts, or even softer, and certainly +warmer. The wool, of which they are made, seems to be taken from +different animals, as the fox and brown _lynx_; the last of which is +by far the finest sort, and, in its natural state, differs little from +the colour of our coarser wools; but the hair, with which the animal +is also covered, being intermixed, its appearance, when wrought, is +somewhat different. The ornamental parts or figures in these garments, +which are disposed with great taste, are commonly of a different +colour, being dyed, chiefly either of a deep brown or of a yellow; the +last of which, when it is new, equals the best in our carpets as to +brightness. + +To their taste or design in working figures upon their garments, +corresponds their fondness for carving in every thing they make of +wood. Nothing is without a kind of freeze-work, or the figure of some +animal upon it; but the most general representation is that of the +human face, which is often cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous +figures mentioned before; and even upon their stone and their +bone weapons. The general design of all these things is perfectly +sufficient to convey a knowledge of the object they are intended to +represent; but the carving is not executed with the nicety that a +dexterous artist would bestow even upon an indifferent design. The +same, however, cannot be said of many of the human masks and heads; +where they shew themselves to be ingenious sculptors. They not only +preserve, with great exactness, the general character of their own +faces, but finish the more minute parts with a degree of accuracy in +proportion, and neatness in execution. The strong propensity of this +people to works of this sort, is remarkable, in a vast variety of +particulars. Small whole human figures; representations of birds, +fish, and land and sea-animals; models of their household utensils and +of their canoes, were found amongst them in great abundance. + +The imitative arts being nearly allied, no wonder that, to their skill +in working figures in their garments, and carving them in wood, they +should add that of drawing them in colours. We have sometimes seen the +whole process of their whale-fishery painted on the caps they wear. +This, though rudely executed, serves, at least, to shew, that, though +there be no appearance of the knowledge of letters amongst them, they +have some notion of a method of commemorating and representing actions +in a lasting way, independently of what may be recorded in their songs +and traditions. They have also other figures painted on some of their +things; but it is doubtful if they ought to be considered as symbols, +that have certain established significations, or only the mere +creation of fancy and caprice. + +Their canoes are of a simple structure; but, to appearance, well +calculated for every useful purpose. Even the largest, which carry +twenty people or more, are formed of one tree. Many of them are forty +feet long, seven broad, and about three deep. From the middle, toward +each end, they become gradually narrower, the after-part, or stern, +ending abruptly or perpendicularly, with a small knob on the top; but +the fore-part is lengthened out, stretching forward and upward, ending +in a notched point or prow, considerably higher than the sides of the +canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they +are without any ornament; but some have a little carving, and are +decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface, like studs, as is +their practice on their masks and weapons. A few have, likewise, a +kind of additional head or prow, like a large cut-water, which is +painted with the figure of some animal. They have no seats, nor any +other supporters, on the inside, than several round sticks, little +thicker than a cane, placed across, at mid depth. They are very light, +and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly, without an +out-rigger, which none of them have; a remarkable distinction between +the navigation of all the American nations and that of the southern +parts of the East Indies, and the islands in the Pacific Ocean. Their +paddles are small and light; the shape, in some measure, resembling +that of a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, +and gradually losing itself in the shaft, the whole being about +five feet long. They have acquired great dexterity in managing these +paddles, by constant use; for sails are no part of their art of +navigation. + +Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously +contrived, and well made, are nets, hooks and lines, harpoons, gigs, +and an instrument like an oar. This last is about twenty feet long, +four or five inches broad, and about half an inch thick. Each edge, +for about two-thirds of its length, (the other third being its +handle,) is set with sharp bone-teeth, about two inches long. Herrings +and sardines, and such other small fish as come in shoals, are +attacked with this instrument; which is struck into the shoal, and the +fish are caught either upon or between the teeth. Their hooks are made +of bone and wood, and rather inartificially; but the harpoon, with +which they strike the whales and lesser sea-animals, shew a great +reach of contrivance. It is composed of a piece of bone, cut into two +barbs, in which is fixed the oval blade of a large muscle-shell, in +which is the point of the instrument. To this is fastened about two or +three fathoms of rope; and to throw this harpoon, they use a shaft of +about twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the line or rope is made +fast; and to one end of which the harpoon is fixed, so as to separate +from the shaft, and leave it floating upon the water as a buoy, when +the animal darts away with the harpoon. + +We can say nothing as to the manner of their catching or killing +land-animals, unless we may suppose that they shoot the smaller sorts +with their arrows, and engage bears, or wolves and foxes, with their +spears. They have, indeed, several nets, which are probably applied +to that purpose;[3] as they frequently threw them over their heads, +to shew their use, when they brought them to us for sale. They also, +sometimes, decoy animals, by covering themselves with a skin, and +running about upon all-fours, which they do very nimbly, as appeared +from the specimens of their skill, which they exhibited to us, +making a kind of noise, or neighing, at the same time; and on these +occasions, the masks or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads +of the different animals, are put on. + +[Footnote 3: One of the methods of catching sea-otters, when ashore +at Kamptschatka, is with nets.--See _Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, p. +13.--D.] + +As to the materials, of which they make their various articles, it +is to be observed, that every thing of the rope kind is formed either +from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen +substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The sinews often +appeared to be of such a length, that it might be presumed they could +be of no other animal than the whale. And the same may be said of +the bones of which they made their weapons already mentioned; such as +their bark-beating instruments, the points of their spears, and the +barbs of their harpoons. + +Their great dexterity in works of wood, may, in some measure, be +ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools. For, as far +as we know, they use no other; at least we saw only one chisel of +bone. And though originally their tools must have been of different +materials, it is not improbable that many of their improvements have +been made since they acquired a knowledge of that metal, which now +is universally used in their various wooden works. The chisel and the +knife are the only forms, as far as we saw, that iron assumes amongst +them. The chisel is a long flat piece, filled into a handle of wood. A +stone serves for a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher. +I have seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten inches long, +and three or four inches broad, but, in general, they were smaller. +The knives are of various sizes; some very large; and their blades are +crooked, somewhat like our pruning-knife, but the edge is on the back +or convex part. Most of them that we saw were about the breadth and +thickness of an iron-hoop, and their singular form marks that they +are not of European make. Probably they are imitations of their own +original instruments, used for the same purposes. They sharpen these +iron tools upon a coarse slate whetstone, and likewise keep the whole +instrument constantly bright. + +Iron, which they call _seekemaile_, (which name they also give to tin +and all white metals,) being familiar to these people, it was very +natural for us to speculate about the mode of its being conveyed to +them. Upon our arrival in the Sound, they immediately discovered a +knowledge of traffic, and an inclination for it; and we were convinced +afterward, that they had not received this knowledge from a cursory +interview with any strangers, but, from their method, it seemed to be +an established practice, of which they were fond, and in which they +were also well skilled. With whom they carry on this traffic, may, +perhaps, admit of some doubt. For though we found amongst them things +doubtless of European manufacture, or at least derived, from some +civilized nation, such as iron and brass, it by no means appears +that they receive them immediately from these nations. For we never +observed the least sign of their having seen ships like ours before, +nor of their having traded with such people. Many circumstances +serve to prove this almost beyond a doubt. They were earnest in their +enquiries, by signs, on our arrival, if we meant to settle amongst +them, and if we came as friends; signifying, at the same time, that +they gave the wood and water freely, from friendship. This not only +proves, that they considered the place as entirely their property, +without fearing any superiority; but the enquiry would have been an +unnatural one, on a supposition that any ships had been here before; +had trafficked, and supplied themselves with wood and water; and had +then departed; for, in that case, they might reasonably expect we +would do the same. They, indeed, expressed no marks of surprise at +seeing our ships. But this, as I observed before, may be imputed to +their natural indolence of temper, and want of curiosity. Nor were +they even startled at the report of a musquet; till one day, upon +their endeavouring to make us sensible, that their arrows and spears +could not penetrate the hide-dresses, one of our gentlemen shot a +musquet-ball through one of them, folded six times. At this they were +so much staggered, that they plainly discovered their ignorance of the +effect of fire-arms. This was very often confirmed afterward, when we +used them at their village and other places to shoot birds, the manner +of which plainly confounded them; and our explanations of the use of +shot and ball were received with the most significant marks of their +having no previous ideas on this matter. + +Some account of a Spanish voyage to this coast, in 1774, or 1775, +had reached England before I sailed; but the foregoing circumstances +sufficiently prove that these ships had not been at Nootka.[4] Besides +this, it was evident, that iron was too common here; was in too many +hands; and the uses of it were too well known, for them to have had +the first knowledge of it so very lately; or indeed at any earlier +period, by an accidental supply from a ship. Doubtless, from the +general use they make of this metal, it maybe supposed to come from +some constant source, by way of traffic, and that not of a very late +date; for they are as dexterous in using their tools as the longest +practice can make them. The most probable way, therefore, by which we +can suppose that they get their iron, is by trading for it with other +Indian tribes, who either have immediate communication with European +settlements upon that continent, or receive it, perhaps, through +several intermediate nations. The same might be said of the brass and +copper found amongst them. + +[Footnote 4: We now know that Captain Cook's conjecture was well +founded. It appears, from the Journal of this Voyage, already referred +to, that the Spaniards had intercourse with the natives of this coast +only in three places, in latitude 41 deg. 7'; in latitude 47 deg. 21'; and in +latitude 57 deg. 18'. So that they were not within two degrees of Nootka; +and it is most probable that the people there never heard of these +Spanish ships.--D.] + +Whether these things be introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, +from the Indians, who deal with our traders, and so successively +across from one tribe to the other; or whether they be brought from +the north-western parts of Mexico in the same manner, perhaps cannot +be easily determined. But it should seem, that not only the rude +materials, but some articles in their manfactured state, find their +way hither. The brass ornaments for noses, in particular, are so +neatly made, that I am doubtful whether the Indians are capable +of fabricating them. The materials, certainly, are European; as no +American tribes have been found, who knew the method of making brass; +though copper has been commonly met with, and, from its softness, +might be fashioned into any shape, and also polished. If our traders +to Hudson's Bay and Canada do not use such articles in their traffic +with the natives, they must have been introduced at Nootka from the +quarter of Mexico, from whence, no doubt, the two silver table-spoons, +met with here, were originally derived. It is most probable, however, +that the Spaniards are not such eager traders, nor have formed such +extensive connections with the tribes north of Mexico, as to supply +them with quantities of iron, from which they can spare so much to the +people here.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Though the two silver table-spoons, found at Nootka +Sound, most probably came from the Spaniards in the south, there seems +to be sufficient grounds for believing that the regular supply of iron +comes from a different quarter. It is remarkable, that the Spaniards, +in 1775, found at _Puerto de la Trinidad_, in latitude 41 deg.7', _arrows +pointed with copper or iron, which they understood were procured +from the north_. Mr Daines Barrington, in a note at this part of the +Spanish journal, p. 20, says "I should conceive, that the copper and +iron here mentioned, must have originally been bartered at our forts +in Hudson's Bay."--D.] + +Of the political and religious institutions established amongst +them, it cannot be supposed that we should learn much. This we could +observe, that there are such men as chiefs, who are distinguished by +the name or title of _Acweek_, and to whom the others are, in some +measure, subordinate. But I should guess, the authority of each +of these great men extends no farther than the family to which he +belongs, and who own him as their head. These _Acweeks_ were not +always elderly men; from which I concluded that this title came to +them by inheritance. + +I saw nothing that could give the least insight into their notions +of religion, besides the figures before mentioned, called by them +_Klumma_. Most probably these were idols; but as they frequently +mentioned the word _acweek_, when they spoke of them, we may, perhaps, +be authorised to suppose, that they are the images of some of their +ancestors, whom they venerate as divinities. But all this is mere +conjecture; for we saw no act of religious homage paid to them; nor +could we gain any information, as we had learned little more of their +language than to ask the names of things, without being able to hold +any conversation with the natives, that might instruct us as to their +institutions or traditions. + +In drawing up the preceding account of the people of this Sound, I +have occasionally blended Mr Anderson's observations with my own; +but I owe every thing to him. that relates to their language; and the +following remarks are in his own words. + +"Their language is by no means harsh or disagreeable, farther +than proceeds from their using the _k_ and _h_ with more force, or +pronouncing them with less softness than we do; and, upon the whole, +it abounds rather with what we may call labial and dental, than with +guttural sounds. The simple sounds, which we have not heard them use, +and which, consequently, may be reckoned rare, or wanting in their +language, are those represented by the letters _b, d, f, g, r,_ and +_v_. But, on the other hand, they have one, which is very frequent, +and not used by us. It is formed, in a particular manner, by clashing +the tongue partly against the roof of the mouth with considerable +force, and may be compared to a very coarse or harsh method of +lisping. It is difficult to represent this sound by any composition of +our letters, unless somehow from _lszthl_. This is one of their most +usual terminations, though we sometimes found it in the beginning of +words. The next most general termination is composed of _tl_; and many +words end with _z_ and _ss_. A specimen or two of each of these is +here put down: + + _Opulszthl_, The sun. + _Onulszthl_, The moon. + _Kahsheetl_, Dead. + _Teeshcheetl_, To throw a stone. + _Kooomitz_, A human scull. + _Quahmiss_, Fish roe. + +"They seem to take so great a latitude in their mode of speaking, that +I have sometimes observed four or five different terminations of +the same word. This is a circumstance very puzzling at first to a +stranger, and marks a great imperfection in their language. + +"As to the composition of it, we can say very little; having been +scarcely able to distinguish the several parts of speech. It can only +be inferred, from their method of speaking, which is very slow and +distinct, that it has few prepositions or conjunctions; and, as far +as we could discover, is destitute of even a single interjection, to +express admiration or surprise. From its having few conjunctions, +it may be conceived, that these being thought unnecessary, as being +understood, each single word with them will also express a great deal, +or comprehend several simple ideas; which seems to be the case. But, +for the same reason, the language will be defective in other respects; +not having words to distinguish or express differences which really +exist, and hence not sufficiently copious. This was observed to be +the case in many instances, particularly with respect to the names +of animals. The relation or affinity it may bear to other languages, +either on this or on the Asiatic continent, I have not been able +sufficiently to trace for want of proper specimens to compare it +with, except those of the Esquimaux and Indians about Hudson's Bay; +to neither of which it bears the least resemblance. On the other hand, +from the few Mexican words I have been able to procure, there is the +most obvious agreement, in the very frequent terminations of the words +in _l_, _tl_, or _z_, throughout the language."[6] + +[Footnote 6: May we not, in confirmation of Mr Anderson's remark, +observe, that _Opulszthl_, the Nootka name of the Sun; and +_Vitziputzli_, the name of the Mexican Divinity, have no very distant +affinity in sound?--D.] + + +The large vocabulary of the Nootka language, collected by Mr Anderson, +shall be reserved for another place,[7] as its insertion here would +too much interrupt our narration. At present I only select their +numerals, for the satisfaction of such of our readers as love to +compare those of different nations in different parts of the world: + + _Tsawack_, One. + _Akkla_, Two. + _Katsitsa_, Three. + _Mo_, or _Moo_, Four. + _Sochah_, Five. + _Nofpo_, Six. + _Atstepoo_, Seven. + _Atlaquolthl_, Eight. + _Tsawaquulthl_, Nine. + _Haeeoo_, Ten. + +[Footnote 7: It will be found at the end of the voyage.] + +Were I to affix a name to the people of Nootka, as a distinct nation, +I would call them _Wakashians_; from the word _wakash_, which was +very frequently in their mouths. It seemed to express applause, +approbation, and friendship. For when they appeared to be satisfied, +or well pleased with any thing they saw, or any incident that +happened, they would, with one voice, call out, _wakash! wakash!_ +I shall take my leave of them, with remarking, that, differing so +essentially, as they certainly do, in their persons, their customs, +and language, from the inhabitants of the islands in the Pacific +Ocean, we cannot suppose their respective progenitors to have been +united in the same tribe, or to have had any intimate connection, when +they emigrated from their original settlements, into the places where +we now find their descendants. + +My account of the transactions in Nootka Sound would be imperfect, +without adding the astronomical and nautical observations made by us, +while the ships were in that station. + + _Latitude._ + + The latitude of the \ Sun 49 deg. 36' 1", 15"' + observatory, by } Stars / South 49 36 8, 36 + / \ North 49 36 10, 30 + ________________ + The mean of these means 49 36 6, 47 north. + + _Longitude._ + + | Twenty sets \ + | taken on the | 233 deg. 26' 18", 7"' + | 21st and 23d | + | of March. / + | + The longitude, by / Ninety-three \ + lunar observations. \ taken at the } 233 18 6, 6 + | observatory / + + | Twenty-four \ + | taken on the | 233 7 16, 7 + | 1st, 2d, and | + | 3d of May. / + The mean of these means 233 17 14, 0 East. + + But by reducing each set, taken | + before we arrived in the Sound, | + and after we left it, by the time- \ 233 deg. 17' 30", 5"' + keeper, and adding them up / + with those made on the spot, | + the mean of the 137 sets, will be | + + Longitude by the / Greenwich rate 235 deg. 46' 51", 0"' + time-keeper \ Ulietea rate 333 59 24, 0 + + +From the results of the last fifteen days observations of equal +altitudes of the sun, the daily rate of the time-keeper was losing, +on mean time, 7"; and on the 16th of April, she was too slow for mean +time by 16^h 0^m 58",45. There was found an irregularity in her rate +greater than at any time before. It was thought proper to reject the +first five days, as the rate in them differed so much from that of the +fifteen following; and even in these, each day differed from another +more than usual. + + _Variation of the Compass._ + + /A.M.\ Observatory / 15 deg. 57' 48-1/2" \ + April 4.{ } { } 15 deg. 49' 25" East. + \PM / Mean of four Needles\ 15 41 2 / + + 5. /A.M.\ On board the ship / 9 deg. 50 49 \ + { } { } 19 44 47-1/2 + 6. \P.M./ Mean of four Needles\ 19 38 46 / + +The variation found on board the ship ought to be taken for the true +one; not only as it agreed with what we observed at sea, but because +it was found that there was something ashore that had a considerable +effect upon the compasses; in some places more than others. At one +spot, on the west point of the Sound, the needle was attracted 113/4 +points from its proper direction. + + _Inclination of the Dipping Needle._ + + April 5th. /Marked \End North \ 71 deg. 26' 22-1/2"\ + On board with { } } } 71 deg. 40' 22-1/2" + balanced needle. \Unmarked /and dipping / 71 54 22-1/2 / + + The Same needle /Marked \End North \ 72 3 45 \ + at the { } } } 70 0 0 + observatory. \Unmarked /and dipping / 71 56 15 / + + /Marked \End North \ 71 58 20 \ + 18th ditto { } } } 72 7 15 + \Unmarked /and dipping / 72 16 10 / + + 5th. Spare needle /Marked \End North \ 72 32 30 \ + at the { } } } 72 49 15 + observatory \Unmarked /and dipping / 73 6 0 / + + /Marked \End North \ 72 55 0 \ + 18th ditto { } } } 73 11 45 + \Unmarked /and dipping / 73 28 30 / + + 22d. Spare /Marked \End North \ 73 28 38 \ + needle on { } } } 73 11 0 + board \Unmarked /and dipping / 72 53 30 / + + Hence the mean dip, with both needles, on shore, was 72 32 3-1/4 + + On board 72 25 45-1/4 + +This is as near as can be expected; and shews, that whatever it was +that affected the compasses, whether on board or ashore, it had no +effect upon the dipping needles. + +_Tides._ + +It is high water on the days of the new and full moon at 12^h 20^m. +The perpendicular rise and fall, eight feet nine inches; which is to +be understood of the day-tides, and those which happen two or three +days after the full and new moon. The night-tides, at this time, rise +near two feet higher. This was very conspicuous during the spring-tide +of the full moon, which happened soon after our arrival; and it was +obvious, that it would be the same in those of the new moon, though we +did not remain here long enough to see the whole of its effect. + +Some circumstances, that occurred daily, relating to this, deserve +particular notice. In the cove, where we got wood and water, was a +great deal of drift wood thrown ashore; a part of which we had to +remove to come at the water. It often happened, that large pieces of +trees, which we had removed in the day out of the reach of the then +high water, were found, the next morning, floated again in our way; +and all our spouts, for conveying down the water, thrown out of their +places, which were immoveable during the day-tides. We also found, +that wood, which we had split up for fuel, and had deposited beyond +the reach of the day-tide, floated away during the night. Some of +these circumstances happened every night or morning, for three or +four days in the height of the spring-tides; during which time we were +obliged to attend every morning-tide, to remove the large logs out of +the way of watering. + +I cannot say whether the flood-tide falls into the Sound from the +north-west, south-west, or south-east. I think it does not come +from the last quarter; but this is only conjecture, founded upon the +following observations: The south-east gales, which we had in the +Sound, were so far from increasing the rise of the tide, that they +rather diminished it; which would hardly have happened, if the flood +and wind had been in the same direction. + + +SECTION IV. + +_A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound.--Resolution springs +a Leak.--Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed +unexamined.--Progress along the Coast of America.--Behring's +Bay.--Kaye's Island.--Account of it.--The Ships come to an +Anchor.--Visited by the Natives.--Their Behaviour.--Fondness for +Beads and Iron.--Attempt to plunder the Discovery.--Resolution's Leak +stopped.--Progress up the Sound.--Messrs Gore and Roberts sent to +examine its Extent.--Reasons against a Passage to the North through +it.--The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea._ + +Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, as before related, with +strong signs of an approaching storm, these signs did not deceive +us. We were hardly out of the Sound, before the wind, in an instant, +shifted from north-east to south-east by east, and increased to a +strong gale, with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky, that we +could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the +experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the wind veering +more to the south, which would put us in danger of a lee-shore, we got +the tacks on board, and stretched off to the south-west, under all +the sail that the ships could bear. Fortunately, the wind veered +no farther southerly than south-east; so that at day-light the next +morning we were quite clear of the coast. + +The Discovery being at some distance a-stern, I brought-to till she +came up, and then bore away, steering north-west; in which direction I +supposed the coast to lie. The wind was at south-east, blew very +hard, and in squalls, with thick hazy weather. At half-past one in +the afternoon, it blew a perfect hurricane; so that I judged it highly +dangerous to run any longer before it, and therefore brought the +ships to, with their heads to the southward, under the foresails and +mizen-stay-sails. At this time the Resolution sprung a leak, which, at +first, alarmed us not a little. It was found to be under the starboard +buttock; where, from the bread-room, we could both hear and see the +water rush in; and, as we then thought, two feet under water. But in +this we were happily mistaken; for it was afterward found to be even +with the water-line, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It +was no sooner discovered, than the fish-room was found to be full of +water, and the casks in it afloat; but this was, in a great measure, +owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals +that lay in the bottom of the room. For, after the water was baled +out, which employed us till midnight, and had found its way directly +from the leak to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, +which gave us no small satisfaction. In the evening, the wind veered +to the south, and its fury, in some degree, ceased. On this we set +the main-sail, and two topsails close-reefed, and stretched to the +westward. But at eleven o'clock the gale again increased, and obliged +us to take in the topsails, till five o'clock the next morning, when +the storm began to abate, so that we could bear to set them again. + +The weather now began to clear up, and being able to see several +leagues round us, I steered more to the northward. At noon, the +latitude, by observation, was 50 deg. 1'; longitude 229 deg. 26'.[1] I now +steered N.W. by N., with a fresh gale at S.S.E. and fair weather. But +at nine in the evening, it began again to blow hard, and in squalls, +with rain. With such weather, and the wind between S.S.E. and S.W. I +continued the same course till the 30th, at four in the morning, when +I steered N. by W. in order to make the land. I regretted very much +indeed that I could not do it sooner; for this obvious reason, that +we were now passing the place where geographers[2] have placed the +pretended strait of Admiral de Fonte. For my own part, I give no +credit to such vague and improbable stories, that carry their own +confutation along with them. Nevertheless, I was very desirous of +keeping the American coast aboard, in order to clear up this point +beyond dispute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me to have +engaged with the land in weather so exceedingly tempestuous, or to +have lost the advantage of a fair wind by waiting for better weather. +This same day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 53 deg. 22', and in the +longitude of 225 deg. 14'. + +[Footnote 1: As in the remaining part of this chapter, the latitude +and longitude are very frequently set down, the former being +invariably North, and the latter East, the constant repetition of the +two words, _North_ and _East_, has been omitted, to avoid unnecessary +precision.] + +[Footnote 2: See de Lisle's _Generale des Decouvertes de l'Amiral de +Fonte_, &c. Paris, 1752; and many other maps.] + +The next morning, being the 1st of May, seeing nothing of the land, +I steered north-easterly, with a fresh breeze at S.S.E. and S., with +squalls, and showers of rain and hail. Our latitude at noon 54 deg. 43', +and our longitude 224 deg. 44'. At seven in the evening, being in the +latitude of 55 deg. 20', we got sight of the land, extending from N.N.E. +to E., or E. by S. about twelve or fourteen leagues distant. An hour +after, I steered N. by W.; and at four the next morning, the coast +was seen from N. by W. to S.E. the nearest part about six leagues +distant.[3] + +[Footnote 3: This must be very near that part of the American coast +where Tscherikow anchored in 1741, for Muller places its latitude +in 56 deg.. Had this Russian navigator been so fortunate as to proceed a +little farther northward along the coast, he would have found, as we +now learn from Captain Cook, bays, and harbours, and islands, where +his ship might have been sheltered, and his people protected in +landing. For the particulars of the misfortunes he met with here, two +boats' crews, which he sent ashore, having never returned, probably +cut off by the natives, see _Muller's Decouvertes de Russes_, p. 248, +254. The Spaniards, in 1775, found two good harbours on this part +of the coast; that called _Guadalupe_, in latitude 57 deg. 11', and the +other, _De los Remedios_, in latitude 57 deg. 18'.--D.] + +At this time the northern point of an inlet, or what appeared to be +one, bore E. by S. It lies in the latitude of 56 deg.; and from it to +the northward, the coast seemed to be much broken, forming bays or +harbours every two or three leagues, or else appearances much deceived +us. At six o'clock, drawing nearer the land, I steered N.W. by N., +this being the direction of the coast; having a fresh gale at S.E. +with some showers of hail, snow, and sleet. Between eleven and twelve +o'clock, we passed a group of small islands, lying under the main +land, in the latitude of 56 deg. 48'; and off, or rather to the northward +of the south point of a large bay. An arm of this bay, in the northern +part of it, seemed to extend in toward the north, behind a round +elevated mountain that lies between it and the sea. This mountain I +called _Mount Edgcumbe_; and the point of land that shoots out from it +_Cape Edgcumbe_. The latter lies in the latitude of 57 deg. 3', and in +the longitude of 224 deg. 7'; and at noon it bore north 20 deg. W. six leagues +distant. + +The land, except in some places close to the sea, is all of a +considerable height, and hilly; but Mount Edgcumbe far out-tops all +the other hills. It was wholly covered with snow; as were also all +the other elevated hills; but the lower ones, and the flatter spots, +bordering upon the sea, were free from it, and covered with wood. + +As we advanced to the north, we found the coast from Cape Edgcumbe +to trend north and north-easterly for six or seven leagues, and there +form a large bay. In the entrance of that bay are some islands; for +which reason I named it the _Bay of Islands_. It lies in the latitude +of 57 deg. 20';[4] and seemed to branch into several arms, one of which +turned to the south, and may probably communicate with the bay on the +east side of Cape Edgcumbe, and make the land of the Cape an island. +At eight o'clock in the evening, the Cape bore S.E. 1/2 S.; the Bay +of Islands N. 53 deg. E.; and another inlet, before which are also some +islands, bore N. 52 deg. E. five leagues distant. I continued to steer +N.N.W. 1/2 W. and N.W. by W. as the coast trended, with a fine gale at +N.E. and clear weather. + +[Footnote 4: It should seem, that, in this very bay, the Spaniards, in +1775, found their port which they call _De los Remedios_. The latitude +is exactly the same; and their journal mentions its being protected +by a long ridge of high islands. See Miscellanies, by the Honourable +Daines Barrington, p. 503, 504.--D.] + +At half-an-hour past four in the morning, on the 3d, Mount Edgcumbe +bore S. 54 deg. E.; a large inlet, N. 50 deg. E., distant six leagues; and +the most advanced point of the land, to the N.W. lying under a very +high-peaked mountain, which obtained the name of _Mount Fairweather_, +bore N. 32 deg. W. The inlet was named _Cross Sound_, as being first +seen on that day, so marked in our calendar. It appeared to branch in +several arms, the largest of which turned to the northward. The S.E. +point of this Sound is a high promontory, which obtained the name of +_Cross Cape_. It lies in the latitude of 57 deg. 57', and its longitude +is 223 deg. 21'. At noon it bore S.E.; and the point under the peaked +mountain, which was called _Cape Fairweather_, N. by W. 1/4 W., +distant thirteen leagues. Our latitude at this time was 58 deg. 17', and +our longitude 222 deg. 14'; and we were distant from the shore three or +four leagues. In this situation we found the variation of the compass +to be from 24 deg. 11' to 26 deg. 11' E. + +Here the N.E. wind left us, and was succeeded by light breezes from +the N.W. which lasted for several days. I stood to the S.W. and W.S.W. +till eight o'clock the next morning, when we tacked, and stood toward +the shore. At noon, the latitude was 58 deg. 22', and the longitude 220 deg. +45'. Mount Fairweather, the peaked mountain over the Cape of the same +name, bore N. 63 deg. E.; the shore under it twelve leagues distant. This +mountain, which lies in the latitude of 58 deg. 52', and in the longitude +of 222 deg., and five leagues inland, is the highest of a chain, or rather +a ridge of mountains, that rise at the N.W. entrance of Cross Sound, +and extend to the N.W. in a parallel direction with the coast. These +mountains were wholly covered with snow, from the highest summit down +to the sea-coast; some few places excepted, where we could perceive +trees rising, as it were, out of the sea; and which, therefore, we +supposed, grew on low land, or on islands bordering upon the shore of +the continent.[5] At five in the afternoon, our latitude being +then 58 deg. 53', and our longitude 220 deg. 52', the summit of an elevated +mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing N., 26 deg. W., and, as +was afterwards found, forty leagues distant. We supposed it to be +Beering's Mount St Elias; and it stands by that name in our chart. + +[Footnote 5: According to Muller, Beering fell in with the coast of +North America in latitude 58 deg. 28', and he describes its aspect thus: +"_L'aspect du pays etoit affrayaut par ses hautes montagnes couvertes +de niege._" The chain or ridge of mountains covered with snow, +mentioned here by Captain Cook, in the same latitude, exactly agrees +with what Beering met with. See Muller's _Voyages et Decouvertes de +Russes_, p. 248-254.--D.] + +This day we saw several whales, seals, and porpoises; many gulls, and +several flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head; the +tip of the tail, and the upper part of the wings, with a black band; +and the rest bluish above and white below. We also saw a brownish +duck, with a black or deep-blue head and neck, sitting upon the water. + +Having but light winds, with some calms, we advanced slowly; so that +on the 6th at noon we were only in the latitude of 59 deg. 8', and in +the longitude of 220 deg. 19'. Mount Fairweather bore S. 63 deg. E. and Mount +Elias N. 30 deg. W.; the nearest land about eight leagues distant. In the +direction of N. 47 deg. E. from this station, there was the appearance +of a bay, and an island off the S. point of it that was covered with +wood. It is here where I suppose Commodore Beering to have anchored. +The latitude, which is 59 deg. 18', corresponds pretty well with the map +of his voyage,[6] and the longitude is 221 deg. E. Behind the bay, (which +I shall distinguish by the name of Beering's Bay, in honour of its +discoverer,) or rather to the south of it, the chain of mountains +before mentioned is interrupted by a plain of a few leagues extent; +beyond which the sight was unlimited; so that there is either a level +country or water behind it. In the afternoon, having a few hours calm, +I took this opportunity to sound, and found seventy fathoms water, +over a muddy bottom. The calm was succeeded by a light breeze from the +N., with which we stood to the westward; and at noon the next day, we +were in the latitude of 59 deg. 27', and the longitude of 219 deg. 7'. In this +situation, Mount Fairweather bore S. 70 deg. E.; Mount St Elias N. 1/2 +W.; the westernmost land in sight N. 52 deg. W.; and our distance from +the shore four or five leagues; the depth of water being eighty-two +fathoms over a muddy bottom. From this station we could see a bay +(circular to appearance) under the high land, with low wood-land on +each side of it. + +[Footnote 6: Probably Captain Cook means Muller's map, prefixed to his +History of the Russian Discoveries.--D.] + +We now found the coast to trend very much to the west, inclining +hardly any thing to the north; and as we had the wind mostly from the +westward, and but little of it, our progress was slow. On the 9th +at noon, the latitude was 59 deg. 30', and the longitude 217 deg.. In this +situation the nearest land was nine leagues distant; and Mount St +Elias bore N., 30 deg. E, nineteen leagues distant. This mountain lies +twelve leagues inland in the latitude of 60 deg. 27', and in the longitude +of 219 deg.. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high mountains, that +may be reckoned a continuation of the former, as they are only divided +from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the west +as the longitude of 217 deg.; where, although they do not end, they lose +much of their height, and become more broken and divided. + +At noon on the 10th, our latitude was 59 deg. 51', and our longitude +215 deg. 56', being no more than three leagues from, the coast of the +continent, which extended from E. 1/2 N., to N.W. 1/2 W., as far as +the eye could reach. To the westward of this last direction was an +island that extended from N., 52 deg. W., to S., 85 deg. W., distant six +leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the N.E. end of +the island, bearing, at this time, N., 30 deg. W., five or six leagues +distant. This point I named _Cape Suckling_. The point of the cape is +low; but within it, is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from +the mountains by low land; so that, at a distance, the cape looks like +an island. On the north side of Cape Suckling is a bay that appeared +to be of some extent, and to be covered from most winds. To this bay I +had some thoughts of going, to stop our leak, as all our endeavours to +do it at sea had proved ineffectual. With this view, I steered for +the cape; but as we had only variable light breezes, we approached +it slowly. However, before night, we were near enough to see some low +land spitting out from the cape to the north-west, so as to cover +the east part of the bay from the south wind. We also saw some small +islands in the bay, and elevated rocks between the cape and the +north-east end of the island. But still there appeared to be a passage +on both sides of these rocks; and I continued steering for them all +night, having from forty-three to twenty-seven fathoms water over a +muddy bottom. + +At four o'clock next morning, the wind, which had been mostly at N.E., +shifted to N. This being against us, I gave up the design of going +within the island, or into the bay, as neither could be done without +loss of time. I therefore bore up for the west end of the island. The +wind blew faint, and at ten o'clock it fell calm. Being not far from +the island, I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a view of +seeing what lay on the other side; but finding it farther to the hills +than I expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was obliged to +drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far +from the shore, I left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were +inscribed the names of the ships, and the date of our discovery. And +along with it, I inclosed two silver two-penny pieces of his majesty's +coin, of the date 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by +the Reverend Dr Kaye;[7] and, as a mark of my esteem and regard for +that gentleman, I named the island, after him, _Kaye's Island_. It is +eleven or twelve leagues in length, in the direction of N.E. and S.W.; +but its breadth is not above a league, or a league and a half, in any +part of it. The S.W. point, which lies in the latitude of 59 deg. 49', +and the longitude of 216 deg. 58', is very remarkable, being a naked +rock, elevated considerably above the land within it. There is also an +elevated rock lying off it, which, from some points of view, appears +like a ruined castle. Toward the sea, the island terminates in a kind +of bare-sloping cliffs, with a beach, only a few paces across to +their foot, of large pebble stones, intermixed in some places with a +brownish clayey sand, which the sea seems to deposit after rolling +in, having been washed down from the higher parts, by the rivulets or +torrents. The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or rock, in a soft +or mouldering state, except in a few places. There are parts of the +shore interrupted by small vallies and gullies. In each of these, a +rivulet or torrent rushes down with considerable impetuosity; though +it may be supposed that they are only furnished from the snow, and +last no longer than till it is all melted. These vallies are filled +with pine-trees, which grow down close to the entrance, but only to +about half way up the higher or middle part of the island. The woody +part also begins, every-where, immediately above the cliffs, and is +continued to the same height with the former; so that the island is +covered, as it were, with a broad girdle of wood, spread upon its +side, included between the top of the cliffy shore; and the higher +parts in the centre. The trees, however, are far from being of an +uncommon growth; few appearing to be larger than one might grasp round +with his arms, and about forty or fifty feet high; so that the only +purpose they could answer for shipping, would be to make top-gallant +masts, and other small things. How far we may judge of the size of the +trees which grow on the neighbouring continent, it may be difficult +to determine. But it was observed, that none larger than those we saw +growing, lay upon the beach amongst the drift-wood. The pine-trees +seemed all of one sort; and there was neither the Canadian pine, nor +cypress, to be seen. But there were a few which appeared to be the +alder, that were but small, and had not yet shot forth their leaves. +Upon the edges of the cliffs, and on some sloping ground, the surface +was covered with a kind of turf, about half a foot thick, which seemed +composed of the common moss; and the top, or upper part of the island, +had almost the same appearance as to colour; but whatever covered +it seemed to be thicker. I found amongst the trees some currant and +hawberry bushes; a small yellow-flowered violet; and the leaves +of some other plants not yet in flower, particularly one which Mr +Anderson supposed to be the _heracleum_ of Linnaeus, the sweet herb, +which Steller, who attended Beering, imagined the Americans here dress +for food, in the same manner as the natives of Kamtschatka. + +[Footnote 7: Then sub-almoner and chaplain to his majesty, afterwards +Dean of Lincoln.--D.] + +We saw, flying about the wood, a crow; two or three of the +white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka; and another sort full as +large, which appeared also of the same colour, or blacker, and had +only a white breast.[8] In the passage from the ship to the shore, +we saw a great many fowls sitting upon the water, or flying about +in flocks or pairs; the chief of which were a few quebrantaheuses, +divers, ducks, or large peterels, gulls, shags, and burres. The divers +were of two sorts; one very large, of a black colour, with a white +breast and belly; the other smaller, and with a longer and more +pointed bill, which seemed to be the common guillemot. The ducks were +also of two sorts; one brownish, with a black or deep blue head and +neck, and is perhaps the stone-duck described by Steller. The others +fly in larger flocks, but are smaller than these, and are of a dirty +black colour. The gulls were of the common sort, and those which fly +in flocks. The shags were large and black, with a white spot behind +the wings as they flew; but probably only the larger water cormorant. +There was also a single bird seen flying about, to appearance of the +gull kind, of a snowy white colour, with black along part of the upper +side of its wings. I owe all these remarks to Mr Anderson. At the +place where we landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyed +us with very little emotion, walking leisurely without any signs of +fear. He was of a reddish-yellow colour, like some of the skins we +bought at Nootka, but not of a large size. We also saw two or three +little seals off shore; but no other animals or birds, nor the least +signs of inhabitants having ever been upon the island. + +[Footnote 8: This species is in the Leverian Museum, and described by +Mr Latham, in his Synopsis of Birds, vol. i. p. 33, No. 72, under the +name of the _White-bellied Eagle_.] + +I returned on board at half past two in the afternoon; and, with a +light breeze easterly, steered for the S.W. point of the island, which +we got round by eight o'clock, and then stood for the westernmost land +now in sight, which, at this time, bore N.W. 1/2 N. On the N.W. side +of the N.E. end of Kaye's Island, lies another island, stretching S.E. +and N.W. about three leagues, to within the same distance of the N.W. +boundary of the bay above mentioned, which is distinguished by the +name of _Comptroller's Bay_. + +Next morning, at four o'clock, Kaye's Island was still in sight, +bearing E. 1/4 S. At this time, we were about four or five leagues +from the main; and the most western part in sight bore N.W. 1/2 N. +We had now a fresh gale at E.S.E., and as we advanced to the N.W., we +raised land more and more westerly, and, at last, to the southward of +W.; so that, at noon, when the latitude was 61 deg. 11", and the longitude +213 deg. 28', the most advanced land bore from us S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At the +same time, the E. point of a large inlet bore W.N.W., three leagues +distant. + +From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which I named _Cape +Hinchingbroke_, the direction of the coast is nearly E. and W. Beyond +this, it seemed to incline to the southward; a direction so contrary +to the modern charts founded upon the late Russian discoveries, that +we had reason to expect that, by the inlet before us, we should find +a passage to the N.; and that the land to the W. and S.W. was nothing +but a group of islands. Add to this, that the wind was now at S.E., +and we were threatened with a fog and a storm; and I wanted to get +into some place to stop the leak, before we encountered another gale. +These reasons induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no +sooner reached, than the weather became so foggy, that we could not +see a mile before us, and it became necessary to secure the ships in +some place, to wait for a clearer sky. With this view, I hauled close +under Cape Hinchingbroke, and anchored before a small cove, a little +within the cape, in eight fathoms water, a clayey bottom, and about a +quarter of a mile from the shore. + +The boats were then hoisted out, some to sound, and others to fish. +The seine was drawn in the cove; but without success, for it was torn. +At some short intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave us a sight +of the lands around us. The cape bore S. by W. 1/2 W., one league +distant; the W. point of the inlet S.W. by W., distant five leagues; +and the land on that side extended as far as W. by N. Between this +point and N.W. by W., we could see no land; and what was in the last +direction seemed to be at a great distance. The westernmost point we +had in sight on the N. shore, bore N.N.W. 1/2 W., two leagues distant. +Between this point, and the shore under which we were at anchor, is a +bay about three leagues deep; on the S.E. side of which there are two +or three coves, such as that before which we had anchored, and in the +middle some rocky islands. + +To these islands Mr Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes of shooting +some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to them, before about twenty +natives made their appearance in two large canoes; on which he thought +proper to return to the ships, and they followed him. They would not +venture alongside, but kept at some distance, hollowing aloud, and +alternately clasping and extending their arms; and, in a short time, +began a kind of song exactly after the manner of those at Nootka. +Their heads were also powdered with feathers. One man held out a white +garment, which we interpreted as a sign of friendship; and another +stood up in the canoe, quite naked, for almost a quarter of an hour, +with his arms stretched out like a cross, and motionless. The canoes +were not constructed of wood, as at King George's or Nootka Sound. The +frame only, being slender laths, was of that substance; the outside +consisting of the skins of seals, or of such like animals. Though +we returned all their signs of friendship, and, by every expressive +gesture, tried to encourage them to come alongside, we could not +prevail. Some of our people repeated several of the common words of +the Nootka language, such as _seekemaile_, and _mahook_; but they did +not seem to understand them. After receiving some presents, which were +thrown to them, they retired toward that part of the shore from whence +they came; giving us to understand by signs, that they would visit us +again the next morning. Two of them, however, each in a small +canoe, waited upon us in the night; probably with a design to pilfer +something, thinking we should be all asleep; for they retired as soon +as they found themselves discovered. + +During the night, the wind was at S.S.E., blowing hard and in squalls, +with rain, and very thick weather. At ten o'clock next morning, the +wind became more moderate, and the weather being somewhat clearer, +we got under sail, in order to look out for some snug place, where +we might search for, and stop the leak; our present station being too +much exposed for this purpose. At first I proposed to have gone up the +bay, before which we had anchored; but the clearness of the weather +tempted me to steer to the northward, farther up the great inlet, as +being all in our way. As soon as we had passed the N.W. point of the +bay above mentioned, we found the coast on that side to turn short +to the eastward. I did not follow it, but continued our course to the +north, for a point of land which we saw in that direction. + +The natives who visited us the preceding evening, came off again in +the morning, in five or six canoes; but not till we were under sail; +and although they followed us for some time, they could not get up +with us. Before two in the afternoon, the bad weather returned again, +with so thick a haze, that we could see no other land besides the +point just mentioned, which we reached at half past four, and found it +to be a small island, lying about two miles from the adjacent coast, +being a point of land, on the east side of which we discovered a fine +bay, or rather harbour. To this we plied up, under reefed topsails +and courses. The wind blew strong at S.E., and in excessively +hard squalls, with rain. At intervals, we could see land in every +direction; but in general the weather was so foggy, that we could see +none but the shores of the bay into which we were plying. In passing +the island, the depth of water was twenty-six fathoms, with a muddy +bottom. Soon after, the depth increased to sixty and seventy fathoms, +a rocky bottom; but in the entrance of the bay, the depth was from +thirty to six fathoms; the last very near the shore. At length, at +eight o'clock, the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in +thirteen fathoms, before we had got so far into the bay as I intended; +but we thought ourselves fortunate that we had already sufficiently +secured ourselves at this hour; for the night was exceedingly stormy. + +The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the natives from +paying us a visit. They came off in two canoes; two men in one, and +one in the other, being the number each could carry. For they were +built and constructed in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux; +only in the one were two holes for two men to sit in, and in the other +but one. Each of these men had a stick, about three feet long, with +the large feathers or wing of birds tied to it. These they frequently +held up to us, with a view, as we guessed, to express their pacific +disposition.[9] + +[Footnote 9: Exactly corresponding to this, was the manner of +receiving Beering's people, at the Schumagin Islands, on this coast, +in 1741. Muller's words are--"On sait ce que c'est que le _Calumet_, +que les Americans septentrionaux presentent en signe de paix. Ceux-ci +en tenoient de pareils en main. C'etoient des batons avec _ailes de +faucon_ attachees au bout"--Decouvertes, p. 268.--D.] + +The treatment these men met with, induced many more to visit us, +between one and two the next morning, in both great and small canoes. +Some ventured on board the ship; but not till some of our people +had stepped into their boats. Amongst those who came on board, was a +good-looking middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the chief. +He was cloathed in a dress made of the sea-otter's skin; and had on +his head such a cap as is worn by the people of King George's Sound, +ornamented with sky-blue glass beads, about the size of a large pea. +He seemed to set a much higher value upon these, than upon our white +glass beads. Any sort of beads, however, appeared to be in high +estimation with these people; and they readily gave whatever they had +in exchange for them, even their fine sea-otter skins. But here I must +observe, that they set no more value upon these than upon other skins, +which was also the case at King George's Sound, till our people set +a higher price upon them; and even after that, the natives of both +places would sooner part with a dress made of these, than with one +made of the skins of wild-cats or of martins. + +These people were also desirous of iron; but they wanted pieces eight +or ten inches long at least, and of the breadth of three or four +fingers. For they absolutely rejected small pieces. Consequently, they +got but little from us; iron having, by this time, become rather a +scarce article. The points of some of their spears or lances were of +that metal; others were of copper, and a few of bone; of which the +points of their darts, arrows, &c. were composed. I could not prevail +open the chief to trust himself below the upper deck; nor did he and +his companions remain long on board. But while we had their company, +it was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a +thievish disposition. At length, after being about three at four +hours alongside the Resolution, they all left her, and went to the +Discovery; none having been there before, except one man, who, at this +time, came from her, and immediately returned thither in company +with the rest. When I observed this, I thought this man had met with +something there, which he knew would please his countrymen better than +what they met with at our ship. But in this I was mistaken, as will +soon appear. + +As soon as they were gone, I sent a boat to sound the head of the +bay. For, as the wind was moderate, I had thoughts of laying the ship +ashore, if a convenient place could be found where I might begin our +operations to stop the leak. It was not long before all the Americans +left the Discovery, and instead of returning to us, made their way +toward our boat employed as above. The officer in her seeing, this, +returned to the ship, and was followed by all the canoes. The boat's +crew had no sooner come on board, leaving in her two of their number +by way of a guard, than some of the Americans stepped into her. Some +presented their spears before the two men; others cast loose the rope +which fastened her to the ship; and the rest attempted to tow her +away. But the instant they saw us preparing to oppose them, they let +her go, stepped out of her into their canoes, and made signs to us +to lay down our arms, having the appearance of being as perfectly +unconcerned as if they had done nothing amiss. This, though rather a +more daring attempt, was hardly equal to what they had meditated on +board the Discovery. The man who came and carried all his countrymen +from the Resolution to the other ship had first been on board of her, +where, after looking down all the hatchways, and seeing nobody but the +officer of the watch, and one or two more, he no doubt thought they +might plunder her with ease, especially as she lay at some distance +from us. It was unquestionably with this view, that they all repaired +to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board; drew +their knives; made signs to the officer and people on deck to keep +off; and began to look about them for plunder. The first thing +they met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they threw +over-board to those of their party who had remained in the canoes. +Before they had time to find another object that pleased their +fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck armed with +cutlasses. On seeing this, the whole company of plunderers sneaked off +into their canoes, with as much deliberation and indifference as they +had given up the boat; and they were observed describing to those who +had not been on board, how much longer the knives of the ship's crew +were than their own. It was at this time, that my boat was on the +sounding duty, which they must have seen; for they proceeded directly +for her, after their disappointment at the Discovery. I have not the +least doubt, that their visiting us so very early in the morning was +with a view to plunder; on a supposition, that they should find every +body asleep. + +May we not, from these circumstances, reasonably infer, that these +people are unacquainted with fire-arms? For, certainly, if they +had known any thing of their effect, they never would have dared to +attempt taking a boat from under ship's guns, in the face of above a +hundred men; for most of my people were looking at them, at the very +instant they made the attempt. However, after all these tricks, we +had the good fortune to leave them as ignorant, in this respect, as we +found them. For they neither heard nor saw a musquet fired, unless at +birds. + +Just as we were going to weigh the anchor, to proceed farther up the +bay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as before; so that we +were obliged to veer away the cable again, and lay fast. Toward the +evening, finding that the gale did not moderate, and that it might be +some time before an opportunity offered to get higher up, I came to a +resolution to heel the ship where we were; and, with this view, moored +her with a kedge-anchor and hawser. In heaving the anchor out of the +boat, one of the seamen, either through ignorance or carelessness, or +both, was carried over-board by the buoy-rope, and followed the +anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable, that, in this very critical +situation, he had presence of mind to disengage himself, and come up +to the surface of the water, where he was taken up, with one of his +legs fractured in a dangerous manner. + +Early the next morning, we gave the ship a good heel to port, in order +to come at, and stop the leak. On ripping off the sheathing, it was +found to be in the seams, which were very open, both in and under the +wale, and, in several places, not a bit of oakum in them. While the +carpenters were making good these defects, we filled all our empty +water-casks, at a stream hard by the ship. The wind was now moderate, +but the weather was thick and hazy, with rain. + +The natives, who left us the preceding day, when the bad weather came +on, paid us another visit this morning. Those who came first, were +in small canoes; others, afterward, arrived in large boats; in one of +which were twenty women, and one man, besides children. + +In the evening of the 16th, the weather cleared up, and we then found +ourselves surrounded on every side by land. Our station was on +the east side of the Sound, in a place, which in the chart is +distinguished by the name of _Snug Corner Bay_. And a very snug place +it is. I went, accompanied by some of the officers, to view the head +of it, and we found that it was sheltered from all winds, with a depth +of water from even to three fathoms over a muddy bottom. The land, +near the shore, is low, part clear, and part wooded. The clear ground +was covered, two or three feet thick, with snow; but very little lay +in the woods. The very summits of the neighbouring hills were covered +with wood; but those farther inland seemed to be naked rocks, buried +in snow. + +The leak being stopped, and the sheathing made good over it, at four +o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we weighed, and steered to the +north-westward, with a light breeze at E.N.E.; thinking, if there +should be any passage to the north through this inlet, that it must be +in that direction. Soon after we were under sail, the natives, in +both great and small canoes, paid us another visit, which gave us +an additional opportunity of forming a more perfect idea of their +persons, dress, and other particulars, which shall be afterward +described. Our visitors seemed to have no other business, but to +gratify their curiosity; for they entered into no sort of traffic with +us. After we had got over to the N.W. point of the arm in which we had +anchored, we found that the flood-tide came into the inlet through the +same channel by which we had entered. Although this circumstance did +not make wholly against a passage, it was, however, nothing in its +favour. After passing the point above mentioned, we met with a good +deal of foul ground, and many sunken rocks, even out in the middle of +the channel, which is here five or six leagues wide. At this time the +wind failed us, and was succeeded by calms and light airs from every +direction; so that we had some trouble to extricate ourselves from the +threatening danger. At length, about one o'clock, with the assistance +of our boats, we got to an anchor, under the eastern shore, in +thirteen fathoms water, and about four leagues to the north of our +last station. In the morning, the weather had been very hazy; but it +afterward cleared up, so as to give us a distinct view of all the land +round us, particularly to the northward, where it seemed to close. +This left us but little hopes of finding a passage that way, or, +indeed, in any other direction, without putting out again to sea. + +To enable me to form a better judgment, I dispatched Mr Gore, with +two armed boats, to examine the northern arm; and the master, with two +other boats, to examine another arm that seemed to take an easterly +direction. Late in the evening they both returned. The master +reported, that the arm he had been sent to, communicated with that +from which we had last come; and that one side of it was only formed +by a group of islands. Mr Gore informed me, that he had seen the +entrance of an arm, which, he was of opinion, extended a long way to +the N.E.; and that, probably by it, a passage might be found. On the +other hand, Mr Roberts, one of the mates, whom I had sent with Mr Gore +to sketch out the parts they had examined, was of opinion, that they +saw the head of this arm. The disagreement of these two opinions, +and the circumstance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering the +Sound from the south, rendered the existence of a passage this way +very doubtful. And, as the wind in the morning had become favourable +for getting out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching +for a passage in a place that promised so little success. Besides +this, I considered, that, if the land on the west should prove to be +islands, agreeably to the late Russian Discoveries,[10] we could +not fail of getting far enough to the north, and that in good time, +provided we did not lose the season in searching places, where a +passage was not only doubtful, but improbable. We were now upward +of five hundred and twenty leagues to the westward of any part of +Baffin's, or of Hudson's Bay. And whatever passage there may be, it +must be, or, at least, part of it, must lie to the north of latitude +72 deg..[11] Who could expect to find a passage or strait of such extent? + +[Footnote 10: Captain Cook seems to take his ideas of these from Mr +Staehlin's map, prefixed to the account of the Northern Archipelago, +published by Dr Maty. London, 1774.--D.] + +[Footnote 11: On what evidence Captain Cook formed his judgment as to +this, is mentioned in the Introduction.--D.] + +Having thus taken my resolution, next morning at three o'clock, we +weighed, and with a gentle breeze at north, proceeded to the southward +down the inlet, and met with the same broken ground, as on the +preceding day. However, we soon extricated ourselves from it, and +afterward never struck ground with a line of forty fathoms. Another +passage into this inlet was now discovered to the S.W. of that by +which we came in, which enabled us to shorten our way out to sea. It +is separated from the other by an island, extending eighteen leagues +in the direction of N.E. and S.W.; to which I gave the name of +_Montagu Island_. + +In this S.W. channel are several islands. Those that lie in the +entrance, next the open sea, are high and rocky. But those within are +low ones; and being entirely free from snow, and covered with wood and +verdure, on this account they were called _Green Islands_. + +At two in the afternoon, the wind veered to the S.W., and S.W. by S., +which reduced us to the necessity of plying. I first stretched over +to within two miles of the eastern, shore, and tacked in fifty-three +fathoms water. In standing back to Montagu Island, we discovered a +ledge of rocks, some above, and others under water, lying three miles +to the north of the northern point of Green Islands. Afterward, some +others were seen in the middle of the channel farther out than the +islands. These rocks made unsafe plying in the night (though not very +dark); and, for that reason, we spent it standing off and on, under +Montagu Island; for the depth of water was too great to come to an +anchor. + +At day-break, the next morning, the wind came more favourable, and we +steered for the channel between Montagu Island and the Green Islands, +which is between two and three leagues broad, and from thirty-four to +seventeen fathoms deep. We had but little wind all the day, and, at +eight o'clock in the evening, it was a dead calm, when we anchored in +twenty-one fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, about two miles from +the shore of Montagu's Island. The calm continued till ten o'clock the +next morning, when, it was succeeded by a small breeze from the north, +with which we weighed; and, by six o'clock in the evening, we were +again in the open sea, and found the coast trending west by south, as +far as the eye could reach. + + +SECTION V. + +_The Inlet called Prince William's Sound.--Its Extent.--Persons of +the Inhabitants described.--Their Dress.--Incision of the +Under-lip.--Various other Ornaments.--Their Boats.--Weapons, fishing, +and hunting Instruments.--Utensils.--Tools.--Uses Iron is +applied to.--Food.--Language, and a Specimen of +it.--Animals.--Birds.--Fish.--Iron and Beads, whence received._ + +To the inlet, which we had now left, I gave the name of _Prince +William's Sound_. To judge of this Sound from what we saw of it, +it occupies, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of +longitude, exclusive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is +not known. + +The natives, who came to make us several visits while we were in the +Sound, were generally not above the common height, though many of them +were under it. They were square, or strongly-chested, and the most +disproportioned part of their body seemed to be their heads, which +were very large, with thick, short necks, and large, broad or +spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though +not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the size of their faces; and +their noses had full, round points, hooked, or turned up at the tip. +Their teeth were broad, white, equal in size, and evenly set. Their +hair was black, thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in +general, thin, or wanting; but the hairs about the lips of those who +have them, were stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown colour. +And several of the elderly men had even large and thick, but straight +beards. + +Though, in general, they agree in the make of their persons, and +largeness of their heads, there is a considerable variety in their +features; but very few can be said to be of the handsome sort, though +their countenance commonly indicates a considerable share of vivacity, +good-nature, and frankness. And yet some of them had an air of +sullenness and reserve. Some of the women have agreeable faces; and +many are easily distinguishable from the men by their features, +which are more delicate; but this should be understood chiefly of the +youngest sort, or middle-aged. The complexion of some of the women, +and of the children, is white; but without any mixture of red. And +some of the men, who were seen naked, had rather a brownish or swarthy +cast, which could scarcely be the effect of any stain; for they do not +paint their bodies. + +Their common dress (for men, women, and children are cloathed alike), +is a kind of close frock, or rather robe; reaching generally to the +ancles, though sometimes only to the knees. At the upper part is a +hole just sufficient to admit the head, with sleeves that reach to the +wrist. These frocks are made of the skins of different animals; the +most common of which are those of the sea-otter, grey fox, racoon, and +pine-martin, with many of seal-skins, and, in general, they are worn +with the hairy side outward. Some also have these frocks made of the +skins of fowls, with only the down remaining on them, which they glue +on other substances. And we saw one or two woollen garments like those +of Nootka. At the seams, where the different skins are sewed together, +they are commonly ornamented with tassels or fringes of narrow thongs, +cut out of the same skins. A few have a kind of cape, or collar, and +some a hood; but the other is the most common form, and seems to be +their whole dress in good weather. When it rains, they put over this +another frock, ingeniously made from the intestines of whales, or some +other large animal, prepared so skilfully, as almost to resemble +our gold-beater's leaf. It is made to draw tight round the neck; its +sleeves reach as low as the wrist, round which they are tied with a +string; and its skirts, when they are in their canoes, are drawn over +the rim of the hole in which they sit, so that no water can enter. At +the same time, it keeps the men entirely dry upward. For no water can +penetrate through it, any more than through a bladder. It must be kept +continually moist or wet, otherwise it is apt to crack or break. +This, as well as the common frock made of the skins, bears a great +resemblance to the dress of the Greenlanders, as described by +Crantz.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. i. p. 136-138. The +reader will find in Crantz many very striking instances, in which the +Greenlanders, and Americans of Prince William's Sound, resemble each +other, besides those mentioned in this Section by Captain Cook. The +dress of the people of Prince William's Sound, as described by Captain +Cook, also agrees with that of the inhabitants of Schumagin's Islands, +discovered by Beering in 1741. Muller's words are, "Leur habillement +etoit de boyaux de baleines pour le haut du corps, et de peaux de +chiens-marins pour le bas."--_Decouvertes des Russes_, p. 274.] + +In general, they do not cover their legs or feet; but a few have +a kind of skin-stockings, which reach half-way up the thigh; and +scarcely any of them are without mittens for the hands, made of +the skins of bears' paws. Those who wear any thing on their heads, +resembled, in this respect, our friends at Nootka, having high +truncated conic caps, made of straw, and sometimes of wood, resembling +a seal's head well painted. + +The men commonly wear the hair cropt round the neck and forehead; but +the women allow it to grow long, and most of them tie a small lock of +it on the crown, or a few club it behind, after our manner. Both sexes +have the ears perforated with several holes, about the outer and lower +part of the edge, in which they hang little bunches of beads, made of +the same tubulous shelly substance used for this purpose by those of +Nootka. The _septum_ of the nose is also perforated, through which +they frequently thrust the quill-feathers of small birds, or little +bending ornaments, made of the above shelly substance, strung on a +stiff string or cord, three or four inches long, which give them +a truly grotesque appearance. But the most uncommon and unsightly +ornamental fashion, adopted by some of both sexes, is their having the +under-lip slit, or cut, quite through, in the direction of the mouth, +a little below the swelling part. This incision, which is made even +in the sucking children, is often above two inches long, and either by +its natural retraction, when the wound is fresh, or by the repetition +of some artificial management, assumes the true shape of lips, and +becomes so large as to admit the tongue through. This happened to be +the case, when the first person having this incision was seen by +one of the seamen, who called out, that the man had two mouths, and, +indeed, it does not look unlike it. In this artificial mouth they +stick a flat narrow ornament, made chiefly out of a solid shell or +bone, cut into little narrow pieces, like small teeth, almost down to +the base or thickest part, which has a small projecting bit at each +end that supports it when put into the divided lip, the cut part then +appearing outward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into +separate holes, and then the ornament consists of as many distinct +shelly studs, whose points are pushed through these holes, and their +heads appear within the lip, as another row of teeth immediately under +their own. + +These are their native ornaments. But we found many beads of European +manufacture among them, chiefly of a pale-blue colour, which they hang +in their ears, about their caps, or join to their lip-ornaments, which +have a small hole drilled in each point to which they are fastened, +and others to them, till they hang sometimes as low as the point of +the chin. But, in this last case, they cannot remove them so easily; +for, as to their own lip-ornaments, they can take them out with their +tongue, or suck them in, at pleasure. They also wear bracelets of the +shelly-beads, or others of a cylindrical shape, made of a substance +like amber, with such also as are used in their ears and noses. And so +fond are they, in general, of ornament, that they stick any thing in +their perforated lip; one man appearing with two of our iron nails +projecting from it like prongs; and another endeavouring to put a +large brass button into it. + +The men frequently paint their faces of a bright red, and of a black +colour, and sometimes of a blue, or leaden colour, but not in any +regular figure; and the women, in some measure, endeavoured to imitate +them, by puncturing or staining the chin with black, that comes to a +point in each cheek; a practice very similar to which is in fashion +amongst the females of Greenland, as we learn from Crantz. Their +bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the scarcity of proper +materials; for all the colours which they brought to sell in bladders, +were in very small quantities. Upon the whole, I have no where seen +savages who take more pains than these people do, to ornament, or +rather to disfigure, their persons. + +Their boats or canoes are of two sorts, the one being large and open, +and the other small and covered. I mentioned already, that in one of +the large boats were twenty women, and one man, besides children. +I attentively examined and compared the construction of this, with +Crantz's description of what he calls the great, or women's boat in +Greenland, and found that they were built in the same manner, parts +like parts, with no other difference than in the form of the head and +stern; particularly of the first, which bears some resemblance to the +head of a whale. The framing is of slender pieces of wood, over which +the skins of seals, or of other larger sea-animals, are stretched, to +compose the outside. It appeared also, that the small canoes of these +people are made nearly of the same form, and of the same materials +with those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; at least the +difference is not material. Some of these, as I have before observed, +carry two men. They are broader in proportion to their length, than +those of the Esquimaux, and the head or fore-part curves somewhat like +the head of a violin. + +The weapons, and instruments for fishing and hunting, are the very +same that are made use of by the Esquimaux and Greenlanders; and it +is unnecessary to be particular in my account of them, as they are all +very accurately described by Crantz. I did not see a single one with +these people that he has not mentioned, nor has he mentioned, one that +they have not. For defensive armour they have a kind of jacket, or +coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound together with sinews, which +makes it quite flexible, though so close as not to admit an arrow or +dart. It only covers the trunk of the body, and may not be improperly +compared to a woman's stays. + +As none of these people lived in the bay where we anchored, or where +any of us landed, we saw none of their habitations, and I had not time +to look after them. Of their domestic utensils, they brought in their +boats some round and oval shallow dishes of wood, and others of a +cylindrical shape much deeper. The sides were made of one piece, bent +round, like our chip-boxes, though thick, neatly fastened with thongs, +and the bottoms fixed in with small wooden pegs. Others were smaller, +and of a more elegant shape, somewhat resembling a large oval +butterboat, without a handle, but more shallow, made from a piece of +wood, or horny substance. These last were sometimes neatly carved. +They had many little square bags, made of the same gut with their +outer frocks, neatly ornamented with very minute red feathers +interwoven with it, in which were contained some very fine sinews, and +bundles of small cord, made from them, most ingeniously plaited. They +also brought many chequered baskets, so closely wrought as to hold +water; some wooden models of their canoes; a good many little images, +four or five inches long, either of wood, or stuffed, which were +covered with a bit of fur, and ornamented with pieces of small quill +feathers, in imitation of their shelly beads, with hair fixed on +their heads. Whether these might be mere toys for children, or held +in veneration, as representing their deceased friends, and applied to +some superstitious purpose, we could not determine. But they have many +instruments made of two or three hoops, or concentric pieces of wood, +with a cross-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To these are +fixed a great number of dried barnacle-shells, with threads, which +serve as a rattle, and make a loud noise; when they shake them. This +contrivance seems to be a substitute for the rattling-bird at Nootka; +and perhaps both of them are employed on the same occasions.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The rattling-ball found by Steller, who attended Beering +in 1741, at no great distance from this Sound, seems to be for a +similar use. See Muller, p, 256.--D.] + +With what tools they make their wooden utensils, frames of boats, and +other things, is uncertain; as the only one seen amongst them was a +kind of stone-adze, made almost after the manner of those of Otaheite, +and the other islands of the South Sea. They have a great many iron +knives; some of which are straight, others a little curved, and some +very small ones, fixed in pretty long handles, with the blades bent +upward, like some of our shoe-makers' instruments. But they have still +knives of another sort, which are sometimes near two feet long, shaped +almost like a dagger, with a ridge in the middle. These they wear in +sheaths of skins, hung by a thong round the neck, under their robe, +and they are, probably, only used as weapons; the other knives being +apparently applied to other purposes. Every thing they have, however, +is as well and ingeniously made, as if they were furnished with the +most complete tool-chest; and their sewing, plaiting of sinews, and +small work on their little bags, may be put in competition with the +most delicate manufactures found in any part of the known world. In +short, considering the otherwise uncivilized or rude slate in +which these people are, their northern situation, amidst a country +perpetually covered with snow, and the wretched materials they have +to work with, it appears, that their invention and dexterity, in all +manual works, are at least equal to that of any other nation. + +The food which we saw them eat, was dried fish, and the flesh of some +animal, either broiled or roasted. Some of the latter that was bought, +seemed to be bear's flesh, but with a fishy taste. They also eat +the larger sort of fern root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked, or +dressed in some other way; and some of our people saw them eat +freely of a substance which they supposed to be the inner part of the +pine-bark. Their drink is most probably water; for in their boats they +brought snow in the wooden vessels, which they swallowed by mouthfuls. +Perhaps it could be carried with less trouble in these open vessels, +than water itself. Their method of eating seems decent and cleanly; +for they always took care to separate any dirt that might adhere to +their victuals. And though they sometimes did eat the raw fat of some +sea-animal, they cut it carefully into mouthfuls, with their small +knives. The same might be said of their persons, which, to appearance, +were always clean and decent, without grease or dirt; and the wooden +vessels, in which their victuals are probably put, were kept in +excellent order, as well as their boats, which were neat, and free +from lumber. + +Their language seems difficult to be understood at first; not from any +indistinctness or confusion in their words and sounds, but from the +various significations they have. For they appeared to use the very +same word, frequently, on very different occasions; though doubtless +this might, if our intercourse had been of longer duration, have been +found to be a mistake on our side. The only words I could obtain, and +for them I am indebted to Mr Anderson,[3] were those that follow; the +first of which was also used at Nootka, in the same sense; though +we could not trace an affinity between the two dialects in any other +instance. + +[Footnote 3: We are also indebted to him for many remarks in +this Section, interwoven with those of Captain Cook, as throwing +considerable light on many parts of his journal.--D.] + + Akashou, _What's the name of that?_ + Namuk, _An ornament for the ear._ + Lukluk, _A brown shaggy skin, perhaps a bear's._ + Aa, _Yes._ + Natooneshuk, _The skin of a sea-otter._ + Keeta, _Give me something._ + Naema, _Give me something in exchange_, or _barter_. + + / _Of_, or _belonging to me.--Will_ + Ooonaka, { _you barter for this that belongs_ + \ _to me_? + + Manaka, + Ahleu, _A spear._ + Weena, _or_ Veena, _Stranger--calling to one._ + Keelashuk, _Guts of which they make jackets._ + Tawuk, _Keep it._ + + / _A piece of white bear's skin_, or + Amilhtoo, { _perhaps the hair that covered_ + \ _it._ + + Whaehai, _Shall I keep it? do you give it me?_ + Yaut, _I'll go_; or _shall I go?_ + Chilke, _One._ + Taiha, _Two._ + Tokke, _Three._ + (Tinke,) + Chukelo,[4] _Four?_ + Koeheene, _Five?_ + Takulai, _Six?_ + Keichilho, _Seven?_ + Klu, _or_ Kliew, _Eight?_ + +[Footnote 4: With regard to these numerals, Mr Anderson observes, +that the words corresponding to ours, are not certain after passing +_three_; and therefore he marks those, about whose position he is +doubtful, with a point of interrogation.--D.] + +As to the animals of this part of the continent, the same must be +understood as of those at Nootka; that is, that the knowledge we have +of them is entirely taken from the skins which the natives brought to +sell. These were chiefly of seals; a few foxes; the whitish cat, or +_lynx_; common and pine-martins; small ermines; bears; racoons; and +sea-otters. Of these, the most common were the martin, racoon, and +sea-otter skins, which composed the ordinary dress of the natives; but +the skins of the first, which in general were of a much lighter brown +than those at Nootka, were far superior to them in fineness; whereas +the last, which, as well as the martins, were far more plentiful than +at Nootka, seemed greatly inferior in the fineness and thickness of +their fur, though they greatly exceeded them in size, and were almost +all of the glossy black sort, which is doubtless the colour most +esteemed in those skins. Bear and seal skins were also pretty common, +and the last were in general white, very beautifully spotted with +black, or sometimes simply white; and many of the bears here were of a +brown, or sooty colour. + +Besides these animals, which were all seen at Nootka, there are some +others in this place which we did not find there; such as the white +bear, of whose skins the natives brought several pieces, and some +entire skins of cubs, from which their size could not be determined. +We also found the wolverene, or quickhatch, which had very bright +colours; a larger sort of ermine than the common one, which is the +same as at Nootka, varied with a brown colour, and with scarcely any +black on its tail. The natives also brought the skin of the head of +some very large animal; but it could not be positively determined what +it was; though, from the colour and shagginess of the hair, and its +unlikeness to any land animal, we judged it might probably be that of +the large male ursine seal, or sea-bear. But one of the most beautiful +skins, and which seems peculiar to this place, as we never saw it +before, is that of a small animal about ten inches long, of a brown +or rusty colour on the back, with a great number of obscure whitish +specks, and the sides of a blueish ash colour, also with a few of +these specks. The tail is not above a third of the length, of its +body, and is covered with hair of a whitish colour at the edges. It +is no doubt the same with those called spotted field mice, by Mr +Staehlin,[5] in his short account of the New Northern Archipelago. But +whether they be really of the mouse kind, or a squirrel, we could not +tell, for want of perfect skins; though Mr Anderson was inclined +to think that it is the same animal described under the name of the +_Casan_ marmot, by Mr Pennant. The number of skins we found here, +points out the great plenty of these several animals just mentioned; +but it is remarkable, that we neither saw the skins of the mouse nor +of the common deer. + +[Footnote 5: In his account of Kodjak, p. 32 and 34.] + +Of the birds mentioned at Nootka, we found here only the white-headed +eagle, the shag, the _alcyon_, or great kingfisher, which had very +fine bright colours, and the humming-bird, which came frequently and +flew about the ship, while at anchor, though it can scarcely live here +in the winter, which must be very severe. The water-fowls were geese, +a small sort of duck, almost like that mentioned at Kerguelen's Land; +another sort which none of us knew; and some of the black seapyes, +with red bills, which we found at Van Diemen's Land and New Zealand. +Some of the people who went on shore, killed a grouse, a snipe, and +some plover. But though, upon the whole, the water-fowls were pretty +numerous, especially the ducks and geese, which frequent the shores, +they were so shy, that it was scarcely possible to get within shot; so +that we obtained a very small supply of them as refreshment. The duck +mentioned above is as large as the common wild-duck, of a deep black +colour, with a short pointed tail, and red feet. The bill is white, +tinged with red toward the point, and has a large black spot, almost +square, near its base, on each side, where it is also enlarged or +distended. And on the forehead is a large triangular while spot, with +one still larger on the back part of the neck. The female has much +duller colours, and none of the ornaments of the bill, except the two +black spots, which are obscure. + +There is likewise a species of diver here, which seems peculiar to +the place. It is about the size of a partridge, has a short, black, +compressed bill, with the head and upper part of the neck of a brown +black, the rest of a deep brown, obscurely waved with black, except +the under-part, which is entirely of a blackish cast, very minutely +varied with white; the other (perhaps the female) is blacker above, +and whiter below. A small land bird, of the finch kind, about the size +of a yellow-hammer, was also found; but was suspected to be one +of those which change their colour with the season, and with their +migrations. At this time, it was of a dusky brown colour, with a +reddish tail, and the supposed male had a large yellow spot on the +crown of the head, with some varied black on the upper part of the +neck; but the last was on the breast of the female. + +The only fish we got were some torsk and halibut, which were chiefly +brought by the natives to sell; and we caught a few sculpins about +the ship, with some purplish star-fish, that had seventeen or eighteen +rays. The rocks were observed to be almost destitute of shell-fish; +and the only other animal of this tribe seen, was a red crab, covered +with spines of a very large size. + +The metals we saw were copper and iron; both which, particularly the +latter, were in such plenty, as to constitute the points of most of +the arrows and lances. The ores, with which they painted themselves, +were a red, brittle, unctuous ochre, or iron-ore, not much unlike +cinnabar in colour; a bright blue pigment, which we did not procure; +and black-lead. Each of these seems to be very scarce, as they brought +very small quantities of the first and last, and seemed to keep them +with great care. + +Few vegetables of any kind were seen; and the trees which chiefly grew +here, were the Canadian and spruce-pine, and some of them tolerably +large. + +The beads and iron found amongst these people, left no room to doubt, +that they must have received them from some civilized nation. We were +pretty certain, from circumstances already mentioned, that we were the +first Europeans with whom they had ever communicated directly; and +it remains only to be decided, from what quarter they had got our +manufactures by intermediate conveyance. And there cannot be the +least doubt of their having received these articles, through the +intervention of the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the +settlements on the Canadian lakes; unless it can be supposed, (which, +however, is less likely,) that the Russian traders, from Kamtschatka, +have already extended their traffic thus far; or at least that the +natives of their most easterly fox islands communicate along the coast +with those of Prince William's Sound.[6] + +[Footnote 6: There is a circumstance mentioned by Muller, in his +account of Beering's voyage to the coast of America in 1741, which +seems to decide this question. His people found iron at the Schumagin +Islands, as may be fairly presumed from the following quotation: +"Un seul homme avoit un couteau pendu a sa ceinture, qui parut fort +singulier a nos gens par sa figure. Il etoit long de huit pouces, et +fort epais, et large a l'endroit ou devoit etre la pointe. On ne pent +savoir quel etoit l'usage de cet outil." _Decouvertes des Russes_, p. +274. + +If there was iron amongst the natives on this part of the American +coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and before there +was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka, what reason +can there be to make the least doubt of the people of Prince William's +Sound, as well as those of Schumagin's Islands, having got this +metal from the only probable source, the European settlements on the +north-east coast of this continent?--D.] + +As to the copper, these people seem to procure it themselves, or at +most it passes through few hands to them; for they used to express its +being in a sufficient quantity amongst them, when they offered any +to barter, by pointing to their weapons; as if to say, that having so +much of this metal of their own, they wanted no more. + +It is, however, remarkable, if the inhabitants of this Sound be +supplied with European articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to +the east coast, that they should, in return, never have given to +the more inland Indians any of their sea-otter skins, which would +certainly have been seen, some time or other, about Hudson's Bay. +But, as far as I know, that is not the case; and the only method of +accounting for this, must be by taking into consideration the very +great distance, which, though it might not prevent European goods +coming so far, as being so uncommon, might prevent the skins, which +are a common article, from passing through more than two or three +different tribes, who might use them for their own cloathing, and +send others, which they esteemed less valuable, as being of their own +animals, eastward, till they reach the traders from Europe. + + +SECTION VI. + +_Progress along the Coast.--Cape Elizabeth.--Cape St +Hermogenes.--Accounts of Beering's Voyage very defective.--Point +Banks--Cape Douglas.--Cape Bede.--Mount St Augustin.--Hopes of finding +a Passage up an Inlet.--The Ships proceed up it.--Indubitable Marks +of its being a River.--Named Cook's River.--The Ships return down +it.--Various Visits from the Natives.--Lieutenant King lands, and +takes Possession of the Country.--His Report.--The Resolution +runs aground on a Shoal.--Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's +River.--The considerable Tides in it accounted for._ + +After leaving Prince William's Sound, I steered to the S.W., with a +gentle breeze at N.N.E.; which, at four o'clock, the next morning, +was succeeded by a calm, and soon after, the calm was succeeded by +a breeze from S.W. This freshening, and veering to N.W., we still +continued to stretch to the S.W., and passed a lofty promontory, +situated in the latitude of 59 deg. 10', and the longitude of 207 deg. 45'. +As the discovery of it was connected with the Princess Elizabeth's +birth-day, I named it _Cape Elizabeth_. Beyond it we could see no +land; so that, at first, we were in hopes that it was the western +extremity of the continent; but not long after, we saw our mistake, +for fresh land appeared in sight, bearing W.S.W. + +The wind, by this time, had increased to a very strong gale, and +forced us to a good distance from the coast. In the afternoon of +the 22d, the gale abated, and we stood to the northward for Cape +Elizabeth, which at noon, the next day, bore W., ten leagues distant. +At the same time, a new land was seen, bearing S. 77 deg. W., which was +supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth with the land we had seen to the +westward. + +The wind continued at W., and I stood to the southward till noon the +next day, when we were within three leagues of the coast which we had +discovered on the 23d. It here formed a point that bore W.N.W. At the +same time more land was seen extending to the southward, as far as +S.S.W., the whole being twelve or fifteen leagues distant. On it was +seen a ridge of mountains covered with snow, extending to the N.W., +behind the first land, which we judged to be an island, from the very +inconsiderable quantity of snow that lay upon it. This point of land +is situated in the latitude of 58 deg. 15', and in the longitude of 207 deg. +42'; and by what I can gather from the account of Beering's voyage, +and the chart that accompanies it in the English edition,[1] I +conclude, that it must be what he called Cape St Hermogenes. But the +account of that voyage is so very much abridged, and the chart so +extremely inaccurate, that it is hardly possible, either by the one or +by the other, or by comparing both together, to find out any one +place which that navigator either saw or touched at. Were I to form a +judgment of Beering's proceedings on this coast, I should suppose that +he fell in with the continent near Mount Fairweather. But I am by no +means certain, that the bay to which I have given his name, is the +place where he anchored. Nor do I know, that what I called Mount St +Elias, is the same conspicuous mountain to which he gave that name. +And as to his Cape St Elias, I am entirely at a loss to pronounce +where it lies.[2] + +[Footnote 1: Captain Cook means Muller's, of which a translation had +been published in London some time before be sailed.--D.] + +[Footnote 2: Mr Coxe, who has been at considerable pains in +endeavouring to reconcile the accounts of Muller and Steller, and in +comparing them with the journals of Cook and Vancouver, is induced to +conjecture that Beering first discovered the continent of America +in the neighbourhood of Kaye's Island, and not where Captain Cook +assigns. This is a very probable opinion, as might easily be shewn, +but not without anticipating matter that belongs to another voyage. +It is enough just now to hint at the circumstance, lest the remarks of +Cook, always well entitled to respect, should be too much confided in +by the reader. No man's judgment is to be disparaged, because of an +error committed, where so little information has been given for its +guidance.--E.] + +On the N.E. side of Cape St Hermogenes, the coast turned toward the +N.W., and appeared to be wholly unconnected with the land seen by +us the preceding day. In the chart above mentioned, there is here +a space, where Beering is supposed to have seen no land. This also +favoured the later account published by Mr Staehlin, who makes Cape St +Hermogenes, and all the land that Beering discovered to the S.W. of +it, to be a cluster of islands; placing St Hermogenes amongst those +which are destitute of wood. What we now saw seemed to confirm this, +and every circumstance inspired us with hopes of finding here a +passage northward, without being obliged to proceed any farther to the +S.W. + +We were detained off the Cape, by variable light airs and calms, till +two o'clock the next morning, when a breeze springing up at N.E. we +steered N.N.W. along the coast; and soon found the land of Cape St +Hermogenes to be an island, about six leagues in circuit, separated +from the adjacent coast by a channel only one league broad. A league +and a half to the north of this island, lie some rocks above water; on +the N.E. side of which we had from thirty to twenty fathoms. + +At noon, the island of St Hermogenes bore S. 1/2 E. eight leagues +distant; and the land to the N.W. of it extended from S. 1/2 W. to +near W. In this last direction it ended in a low point, now five +leagues distant, which was called _Point Banks_. The latitude of the +ship, at this time, was 58 deg. 41', and its longitude 207 deg. 44'. In this +situation, the land, which was supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth with +this S.W. land, was in sight, bearing N.W. 1/2 N. I steered directly +for it; and, on a nearer approach, found it to be a group of high +islands and rocks, entirely unconnected with any other land. They +obtained the name of _Barren Isles_, from their very naked appearance. +Their situation is in the latitude of 59 deg., and in a line with Cape +Elizabeth and Point Banks; three leagues distant from the former, and +five from the latter. + +I intended going through one of the channels that divide these +islands; but meeting with a strong current setting against us, I +bore up, and went to the leeward of them all. Toward the evening, the +weather, which had been hazy all day, cleared up, and we got sight +of a very lofty promontory, whose elevated summit, forming two +exceedingly high mountains, was seen above the clouds. This promontory +I named _Cape Douglas_, in honour of my very good friend, Dr Douglas, +canon of Windsor.[3] It is situated in the latitude of 58 deg. 56', and +in the longitude of 206 deg. 10'; ten leagues to the westward of Barren +Isles, and twelve from Point Banks, in the direction of N.W. by W. 1/2 +W. + +[Footnote 3: The reader of course is aware, that this gentleman, +afterwards successively Bishop of Carlisle and Salisbury, is the +person to whom we are indebted for the original edition of this +voyage, as we have elsewhere mentioned.--E.] + +Between this point and Cape Douglas, the coast seemed to form a large +and deep bay; which, from some smoke that had been seen on Point +Banks, obtained the name of _Smokey Bay_. + +At day-break, the next morning, being the 26th, having got to the +northward of the Barren Isles, we discovered more land, extending +from Cape Douglas to the north. It formed a chain of mountains of vast +height; one of which, far more conspicuous than the rest, was named +_Mount St Augustin_. The discovery of this land did not discourage +us, as it was supposed to be wholly unconnected with the land of Cape +Elizabeth. For, in a N.N.E. direction, the sight was unlimited by +every thing but the horizon. We also thought that there was a passage +to the N.W., between, Cape Douglas and Mount St Augustin. In short, +it was imagined, that the land on our larboard, to the N. of Cape +Douglas, was composed of a group of islands, disjoined by so many +channels, any one of which we might make use of according as the wind +should serve. + +With these flattering ideas, having a fresh-gale at N.N.E., we stood +to the N.W. till eight o'clock, when we clearly saw, that what we had +taken for islands were summits of mountains, every where connected by +lower land, which the haziness of the horizon had prevented us from +seeing at a greater distance. This land was every where covered with +snow, from the tops of the hills down to the very sea-beach; and had +every other appearance of being part of a great continent. I was now +fully persuaded that I should find no passage by this inlet; and my +persevering in the search of it here, was more to satisfy other people +than to confirm my own opinion. + +At this time Mount St Augustin bore N., 40 W., three or four +leagues distant. This mountain is of a conical figure, and of very +considerable height; but it remains undetermined whether it be an +island or part of the continent. Finding that nothing could be done +to the W., we tacked, and stood over to Cape Elizabeth, under which +we fetched at half-past five in the afternoon. On the N. side of Cape +Elizabeth, between it and a lofty promontory, named Cape Bede,[4] is a +bay, in the bottom of which there appeared to be two snug harbours. We +stood well into this bay, where we might have anchored in twenty-three +fathoms water; but as I had no such view, we tacked and stood to the +westward, with the wind at N. a very strong gale, attended by rain, +and thick hazy weather. + +[Footnote 4: In naming this and Mount St Augustin, Captain Cook was +directed by our Calendar.--D.] + +The next morning the gale abated; but the same weather continued till +three o'clock in the afternoon, when it cleared up. Cape Douglas bore +S.W. by W.; Mount St Augustin W. 1/2 S.; and Cape Bede S., 15 deg. E., +five leagues distant. In this situation, the depth of water was forty +fathoms, over a rocky bottom. From Cape Bede, the coast trended +N.E. by E. with a chain of mountains inland, extending in the same +direction. The land on the coast was woody; and there seemed to be +no deficiency of harbours. But, what was not much in our favour, we +discovered low land in the middle of the inlet, extending from N.N.E. +to N.E. by E. 1/2 E. However, as this was supposed to be an island, +it did not discourage us. About this time we got a light breeze +southerly, and I steered to the westward of this low land; nothing +appeared to obstruct us in that direction. Our soundings during the +night were from thirty to twenty-five fathoms. + +On the 28th, in the morning, having but very little wind, and +observing the ship to drive to the southward, in order to stop her, I +dropped a kedge-anchor, with an eight-inch hawser bent to it. But, +in bringing the ship up, the hawser parted near the inner end; and we +lost both it and the anchor. For although we brought the ship up with +one of the bowers, and spent most of the day in sweeping for them, it +was to no effect. By an observation, we found our station to be in the +latitude of 59 deg. 51'; the low land above mentioned extended from N.E. +to S., 75 deg. E., the nearest part two leagues distant. The land on the +western shore was about seven leagues distant, and extended from S. +35 deg. W., to N. 7 deg. E.; so that the extent of the inlet was now reduced +to three points and a half of the compass; that is, from N. 1/2 E. +to N.E. Between these two points no land was to be seen. Here was a +strong tide setting to the southward out of the inlet. It was the ebb, +and ran between three and four knots in an hour; and it was low water +at ten o'clock. A good deal of sea-weed, and some drift-wood, were +carried out with the tide. The water, too, had become thick like that +in rivers; but we were encouraged to proceed, by finding it as salt +at low water as the ocean. The strength of the flood-tide was three +knots, and the stream ran up till four in the afternoon. + +As it continued calm all day, I did not move till eight o'clock in the +evening; when, with a light breeze at E., we weighed, and stood to +the N., up the inlet. We had not been long under sail, before the wind +veered to the N., increasing to a fresh gale, and blowing in squalls, +with rain. This did not, however, hinder us from plying up as long +as the flood continued; which was till near five o'clock the next +morning. We had soundings from thirty-five to twenty-four fathoms. In +this last depth we anchored about two leagues from the eastern shore, +in the latitude of 60 deg. 8'; some low land, that we judged to be an +island, lying under the western shore, extended from N. 1/2 W. to N.W. +by N., distant three or four leagues. + +The weather had how become fair and tolerably clear, so that we +could see any land that might lie within our horizon; and in a N.N.E. +direction, no land, nor any thing to obstruct our progress, was +visible. But on each side was a ridge of mountains, rising one behind +another, without the least separation. I judged it to be low water, by +the shore, about ten o'clock; but the ebb ran down till near noon. +The strength of it was four knots and a half; and it fell, upon a +perpendicular, ten feet three inches, that is; while we lay at anchor; +so that there is reason to believe that this was not the greatest +fall. On the eastern shore we now saw two columns of smoke; a sure +sign that there were inhabitants. + +At one in the afternoon we weighed, and plied up under double-reefed +top-sails and courses, having a very strong gale at N.N.E. nearly +right down the inlet. We stretched over to the western shore, and +fetched within two leagues of the south end of the low land, or island +before mentioned, under which I intended to have taken shelter till +the gale should cease. But falling suddenly into twelve fathoms water, +from upward of forty, and seeing the appearance of a shoal ahead, +spitting out from the low land, I tacked, and stretched back to the +eastward, and anchored under that shore in nineteen fathoms water, +over a bottom of small pebble stones. + +Between one and two in the morning of the 30th, we weighed again with +the first of the flood, the gale having, by this time quite abated, +but still continuing contrary; so that we plied up till near seven +o'clock, when the tide being done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, +under the same shore as before. The N.W. part of it, forming a bluff +point, bore N., 20 deg. E., two leagues distant; a point on the other +shore opposite to it, and nearly of the same height, bore N., 36 deg. W.; +our latitude, by observation, 60 deg. 37'. + +About noon, two canoes, with a man in each, came off to the ship from +near the place where we had seen the smoke the preceding day. They +laboured very hard in paddling across the strong tide, and hesitated +a little before they would come quite close; but upon signs being +made to them, they approached. One of them talked a great deal to no +purpose; for we did not understand a word he said. He kept pointing +to the shore, which we interpreted to be an invitation to go thither. +They accepted a few trifles from me, which I conveyed to them from the +quarter-gallery. These men, in every respect, resembled the people we +had met with in Prince William's Sound, as to their persons and dress. +Their canoes were also of the same construction. One of our visitors +had his face painted jet black, and seemed to have no beard; but the +other, who was more elderly, had no paint, and a considerable beard, +with a visage much like the common sort of the Prince William's +people. There was also smoke seen upon the flat western shore this +day, from whence we may infer that these lower spots and islands are +the only inhabited places. + +When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes left us. I stood +over to the western shore, with a fresh gale at N.N.E., and fetched +under the point above-mentioned. This, with the other on the opposite +shore, contracted the channel to the breadth of four leagues. Through +this channel ran a prodigious tide. It looked frightful to us, who +could not tell whether the agitation of the water was occasioned by +the stream, or by the breaking of the waves against rocks or sands. As +we met with no shoal, it was concluded to be the former; but, in the +end, we found ourselves mistaken. I now kept the western shore aboard, +it appearing to be the safest. Near the shore we had a depth of +thirteen fathoms; and two or three miles off, forty and upwards. At +eight in the evening, we anchored under a point of land which bore +N.E., three leagues distant, in fifteen fathoms water. Here we lay +during the ebb, which ran near five knots in the hour. + +Until we got thus far, the water had retained the same degree of +saltness at low as at high water; and at both periods was as salt as +that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river displayed themselves. +The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowest, was found to be very +considerably fresher than any we had hitherto tasted; insomuch that +I was convinced that we were in a large river, and not in a strait, +communicating with the northern seas. But as we had proceeded thus +far, I was desirous of having stronger proofs; and therefore weighed +with the next flood in the morning of the 31st, and plied higher up, +or rather drove up with the tide; for we had but little wind. + +About eight o'clock, we were visited by several of the natives, in +one large and several small canoes. The latter carried only one person +each; and some had a paddle, with a blade at each end, after the +manner of the Esquimaux. In the large canoes, were men, women, and +children. Before they reached the ship, they displayed a leathern +frock, upon a long pole, as a sign, as we understood it, of their +peaceable intentions. This frock they conveyed into the ship, +in return for some trifles which I gave them. I could observe no +difference between the persons, dress, ornaments, and boats of these +people, and those of Prince William's Sound, except that the small +canoes were rather of a less size, and carried only one man. We +procured from them some of their fur dresses, made of the skins of +sea-otters, martins, hares, and other animals; a few of their darts, +and a small supply of salmon and halibut. In exchange for these they +took old clothes, beads, and pieces of iron. We found that they were +in possession of large iron knives, and of sky-blue glass beads, such +as we had found amongst the natives of Prince William's Sound. These +latter they seemed to value much, and consequently those which we now +gave them. But their inclination led them especially to ask for large +pieces of iron; which metal, if I was not much mistaken, they called +by the name of _goone_; though, like their neighbours in Prince +William's Sound, they seemed to have many significations to one word. +They evidently spoke the same language; as the words _keeta_, _naema_, +_oonaka_, and a few others of the most common we heard in that Sound, +were also frequently used by this new tribe. After spending about +two hours between the one ship and the other, they all retired to the +western shore. + +At nine o'clock, we came to an anchor, in sixteen fathoms water, about +two leagues from the west shore, and found the ebb already begun. At +its greatest strength, it ran only three knots in the hour, and fell, +upon a perpendicular, after we had anchored, twenty-one feet. The +weather was misty, with drizzling rain, and clear, by turns. At +the clear intervals, we saw an opening between the mountains on the +eastern shore, bearing east from the station of the ships, with low +land, which we supposed to be islands lying between us and the main +land. Low land was also seen to the northward, that seemed to extend +from the foot of the mountains on the one side to those on the other; +and at low water we perceived large shoals stretching out from this +low land, some of which were at no great distance from us. From these +appearances we were in some doubt whether the inlet did not take an +easterly direction through the above opening; or whether that opening +was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued its northern +direction through the low land now in sight. The continuation and +direction of the chain of mountains on each side of it, strongly +indicated the probability of the latter supposition. + +To determine this point, and to examine the shoals, I dispatched two +boats under the command of the master, and as soon as the flood-tide +made, followed with the ships; but as it was a dead calm, and the +tide strong, I anchored, after driving about ten miles in an east +direction. At the lowest of the preceding ebb, the water at the +surface, and for near a foot below it, was found to be perfectly +fresh; retaining, however, a considerable degree of saltness at +a greater depth. Besides this, we had now many other, and but too +evident proofs of being in a great river; such as low shores; very +thick and muddy water; large trees, and all manner of dirt and +rubbish, floating up and down with the tide. In the afternoon, the +natives, in several canoes, paid us another visit; and trafficked with +our people for some time, without ever giving us reason to accuse them +of any act of dishonesty. + +At two o'clock next morning, being the 1st of June, the master +returned, and reported, that he found the inlet, or rather river, +contracted to the breadth of one league, by low land on each side, +through which it took a northerly direction. He proceeded three +leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigable for the +largest ships, being from twenty to seventeen fathoms deep. The +least water, at a proper distance from the shore and shoals, was ten +fathoms; and this was before he entered the narrow part. While the ebb +or stream run down, the water was perfectly fresh; but after the flood +made it became brackish; and toward high water, very much so, even as +high up as he went. He landed upon an island, which lies between this +branch and the eastern one; and upon it saw some currant bushes, with +the fruit already set; and some other fruit-trees and bushes, unknown +to him. The soil appeared to be clay, mixed with sand. About three +leagues beyond the extent of his search, or to the northward of it, +he observed there was another separation in the eastern chain of +mountains, through which he supposed the river took a N.E. direction; +but it seemed rather more probable that this was only another branch, +and that the main channel kept its northern direction, between the two +ridges or chains of mountains before mentioned. He found that these +two ridges, as they extended to the north, inclined more and more to +each other, but never appeared to close; nor was any elevated land +seen between them, only low land, part woody, and part clear. + +All hopes of finding a passage were now given up. But as the ebb was +almost spent, and we could not return against the flood, I thought I +might as well take the advantage of the latter to get a nearer view +of the eastern branch; and by that means finally to determine, whether +the low land on the east side of the river was an island, as we had +supposed, or not. With this purpose in view, we weighed with the first +breeze of the flood, and having a faint breeze at N.E. stood over +for the eastern shore, with boats ahead, sounding. Our depth was from +twelve to five fathoms; the bottom a hard gravel, though the water was +exceedingly muddy. At eight o'clock a fresh breeze sprung up at east, +blowing in an opposite direction to our course; so that I despaired of +reaching the entrance of the river, to which we were plying up, before +high water. But thinking, that what the ships could not do might be +done by boats, I dispatched two, under the command of Lieutenant King, +to examine the tides, and to make such other observations as might +give us some insight into the nature of the river. + +At ten o'clock, finding the ebb began, I anchored in nine fathoms +water, over a gravelly bottom. Observing the tide to be too strong for +the boats to make head against it, I made a signal for them to return +on board, before they had got half way to the entrance of the river +they were sent to examine, which bore from us S. 80 deg. E., three leagues +distant. The principal information gained by this tide's work, was +the determining that all the low land, which we had supposed to be +an island or islands, was one continued tract, from the banks of the +great river to the foot of the mountains, to which it joined; and that +it terminated at the south entrance of this eastern branch, which I +shall distinguish by the name of _River Turnagain_. On the north side +of this river, the low land again begins, and stretches out from the +foot of the mountains down to the banks of the great river; so that, +before the river Turnagain, it forms a large bay, on the south side +of which we were now at anchor, and where we had from twelve to five +fathoms, from half-flood to high water. + +After we had entered the bay, the flood set strong into the river +Turnagain, and ebb came out with still greater force; the water +falling, while we lay at anchor, twenty feet upon a perpendicular. +These circumstances convinced me, that no passage was to be expected +by this side-river anymore than by the main branch. However, as the +water, during the ebb, though very considerably fresher, had still a +strong degree of saltness, it is but reasonable to suppose, that both +these branches are navigable by ships much farther than we examined +them; and that by means of this river, and its several branches, a +very extensive inland communication lies open. We had traced it as +high as the latitude of 61 deg. 30', and the longitude of 210 deg.; which is +seventy leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the least +appearance of its source. + +If the discovery of this great river,[5] which promises to vie with +the most considerable ones already known to be capable of extensive +inland navigation, should prove of use either to the present or to any +future age, the time we spent in it ought to be the less regretted. +But to us, who had a much greater object in view, the delay thus +occasioned was an essential loss. The season was advancing apace. We +knew not how far we might have to proceed to the south; and we were +now convinced, that the continent of North America extended farther to +the west, than from the modern most reputable charts we had reason to +expect. This made the existence of a passage into Baffin's or Hudson's +Bay less probable, or at least shewed it to be of greater extent. +It was a satisfaction to me, however, to reflect, that, if I had not +examined this very considerable inlet, it would have been assumed, by +speculative fabricators of geography, as a fact, that it communicated +with the sea to the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the +east; and been marked, perhaps, on future maps of the world, with +greater precision, and more certain signs of reality, than the +invisible, because imaginary, Straits of de Fuca and de Fonte. + +[Footnote 5: Captain Cook having here left a blank which he had not +filled up with any particular name, Lord Sandwich directed, with the +greatest propriety, that it should be called _Cook's River_.--D. + +Some readers may require to be informed, that, for reasons mentioned +in the account of his voyage, Captain Vancouver has called it _Cook's +Inlet_.--E.] + +In the afternoon, I sent Mr King again, with two armed boats, with +orders to land on the north-eastern point of the low land, on the +south-east side of the river; there to display the flag; to take +possession of the country and river in his majesty's name; and to bury +in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin of the +year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships, +and the date of our discovery. In the mean time, the ships were got +under sail, in order to proceed down the river. The wind still blew +fresh, easterly; but a calm ensued, not long after we were under way; +and the flood-tide meeting us off the point where Mr King landed, (and +which thence got the name of _Point Possession_,) we were obliged to +drop anchor in six fathoms water, with the point bearing S., two miles +distant. + +When Mr King returned, he informed me, that as he approached the +shore, about twenty of the natives made their appearance, with their +arms extended; probably to express thus their peaceable disposition, +and to shew that they were without weapons. On Mr King's, and the +gentlemen with him, landing, with musquets in their hands, they seemed +alarmed, and made signs, expressive of their request to lay them down. +This was accordingly done; and then they suffered the gentlemen to +walk up to them, and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had +with them a few pieces of fresh salmon, and several dogs. Mr Law, +surgeon of the Discovery, who was one of the party, having bought +one of the latter, took it down toward the boat, and shot it dead, in +their sight. This seemed to surprise them exceedingly; and as if they +did not think themselves safe in such company, they walked away; but +it was soon after discovered, that their spears, and other weapons, +were hid in the bushes close behind them. Mr King also informed me, +that the ground was swampy, and the soil poor, light, and black. It +produced a few trees and shrubs; such as pines, alders, birch, and +willows; rose and currant bushes; and a little grass; but they saw not +a single plant in flower. + +We weighed anchor as soon as it was high water, and, with a faint +breeze, southerly, stood over to the west shore, where the return of +the flood obliged us to anchor early next morning. Soon after, several +large, and some small canoes, with natives, came off, who bartered +their skins; after which they sold their garments, till many of them +were quite naked. Amongst others, they brought a number of white hare +or rabbit skins; and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes; but there +were only two or three skins of otters. They also sold us some pieces +of salmon and halibut. They preferred iron to every thing else offered +to them in exchange. The lip ornaments did not seem so frequent +amongst them as at Prince William's Sound; but they had more of those +which pass through the nose, and in general these were also much +longer. They had, however, a greater quantity of a kind of white and +red embroidered work on some parts of their garments, and on other +things, such as their quivers and knife-cases. + +At half-past ten, we weighed with the first of the ebb, and having a +gentle breeze at south, plied down the river; in the doing of which, +by the inattention and neglect of the man at the lead, the Resolution +struck, and stuck fast on a bank, that lies nearly in the middle of +the river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points +before mentioned. This bank was, no doubt, the occasion of that very +strong rippling, or agitation of the stream, which we had observed +when turning up the river. There was not less than twelve feet depth +of water about the ship, at the lowest of the ebb, but other parts of +the bank were dry. As soon as the ship came aground, I made a signal +for the Discovery to anchor. She, as I afterward understood, had been +near ashore on the west side of the bank. As the flood-tide came +in, the ship floated off, soon after five o'clock in the afternoon, +without receiving the least damage, or giving us any trouble; and, +after standing over to the west shore into deep water, we anchored to +wait for the ebb, as the wind was still contrary. + +We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night; and, between +four and five next morning, when the tide was finished, once more cast +anchor, about two miles below the bluff point, on the west shore, in +nineteen fathoms water. A good many of the natives came off when we +were in this station, and attended upon us all the morning. Their +company was very acceptable; for they brought with them a large +quantity of very fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles +as we had to give them. Most of it was split ready for drying; and +several hundred weight of it was procured for the two ships. + +In the afternoon, the mountains, for the first time since our entering +the river, were clear of clouds; and we discovered a volcano in one +of those on the west side. It is in the latitude of 60 deg. 23'; and it is +the first high mountain to the north of Mount St Augustin. The volcano +is on that side of it that is next the river, and not far from the +summit. It did not now make any striking appearance, emitting only a +white smoke, but no fire. + +The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it down the river; +and on the 5th, in the morning, coming to the place where we had lost +our kedge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without success. +Before we left this place, six canoes came off from the east shore; +some conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained at a +little distance from the ships, viewing them with a kind of silent +surprise, at least half an hour, without exchanging a single word +with us, or with one another. At length they took courage, and came +alongside; began to barter with our people; and did not leave us till +they had parted with every thing they brought with them, consisting +of a few skins and some salmon. And here it may not be improper to +remark, that all the people we had met with, in this river, seemed, by +every striking instance of resemblance, to be of the same nation with +those who inhabit Prince William's Sound, but differing essentially +from those of Nootka, or King George's Sound, both in their persons +and language. The language of these is rather more guttural; but, +like the others, they speak strongly and distinct, in words which seem +sentences. + +I have before observed, that they are in possession of iron; that is, +they have the points of their spears and knives of this metal; and +some of the former are also made of copper. Their spears are like +our spontoons; and their knives, which they keep in sheaths, are of +a considerable length. These, with a few glass beads, are the only +things we saw amongst them that were not of their own manufacture. +I have already offered my conjectures from whence they derive their +foreign articles; and shall only add here, that if it were probable +that they found their way to them from such of their neighbours with +whom the Russians may have established a trade, I will be bold to say, +the Russians themselves have never been amongst them; for if that +had been the case, we should hardly have found them clothed in such +valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. + +There is not the least doubt, that a very beneficial fur-trade might +be carried on with the inhabitants of this vast coast. But unless +a northern passage should be found practicable, it seems rather too +remote for Great Britain to receive any emolument from it. It must, +however, be observed, that the most valuable, or rather the only +valuable skins I saw on this west side of America, were those of the +sea-otter. All their other skins seemed to be of an inferior quality; +particularly those of their foxes and martins. It must also be +observed, that most of the skins which we purchased were made up into +garments. However, some of these were in good condition; but others +were old and ragged enough; and all of them very lousy. But as these +poor people make no other use of skins but for clothing themselves, +it cannot be supposed that they are at the trouble of dressing more +of them than are necessary for this purpose. And, perhaps, this is the +chief use for which they kill the animals; for the sea and the rivers +seem to supply them with their principal articles of food. It would, +probably, be much otherwise, were they once habituated to a constant +trade with foreigners. This intercourse would increase their wants, by +introducing them to an acquaintance with new luxuries; and, in order +to be enabled to purchase these, they would be more assiduous in +procuring skins, which they would soon discover to be the commodity +most sought for; and a plentiful supply of which, I make no doubt, +would be had in the country. + +It will appear, from what has been said occasionally of the tide, +that it is considerable in this river, and contributes very much to +facilitate the navigation of it. It is high-water in the stream, on +the days of the new and full moon, between two and three o'clock; and +the tide rises, upon a perpendicular, between three and four fathoms. +The reason of the tide's being greater here than at other parts of +this coast, is easily accounted for. The mouth of the river being +situated in a corner of the coast, the flood that comes from the ocean +is forced into it by both shores, and by that means swells the tide to +a great height. + +The variation of the compass was 25 deg. 40' E. + + +SECTION VII. + +_Discoveries after leaving Cook's River.--Island of +St Hermogenes.--Cape Whitsunday.--Cape Greville.--Cape +Barnabas.--Two-headed Point.--Trinity Island.--Beering's Foggy +Island.--A beautiful Bird described.--Kodiak and the Schumagin +Islands.--A Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native.--Conjectures +about it.--Rock Point.--Halibut Island.--A Volcano +Mountain.--Providential Escape.--Arrival of the Ships at +Oonalaschka.--Intercourse with the Natives there.--Another Russian +Letter.--Samganoodha Harbour described._ + +As soon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed, and, with a +light breeze, between W.S.W., and S.S.W., plied down the river, till +the flood obliged us to anchor again. At length, about one o'clock +next morning, a fresh breeze sprung up at W., with which we got under +sail, and, at eight, passed the Barren Islands, and stretched away +for Cape St Hermogenes. At noon, this cape bore S.S.E., eight leagues +distant; and the passage between the island of that name, and the main +land, bore S. For this passage I steered, intending to go through it. +But soon after the wind failed us, and we had baffling light airs +from the eastward, so that I gave up my design of carrying the ships +between the island and the main. + +At this time we saw several columns of smoke on the coast of the +continent, to the northward of the passage; and, most probably, they +were meant as signals to attract us thither. Here the land forms a +bay, or perhaps a harbour, off the N.W. point of which lies a +low, rocky island. There are also some other islands of the same +appearance, scattered along the coast, between this place and Point +Banks. + +At eight in the evening, the island of St Hermogenes extended from S. +1/2 E. to S.S.E. 1/4 E., and the rocks that lie on the N. side of +it bore S.E., three miles distant. In this situation, we had forty +fathoms water over a bottom of sand and shells. Soon after, on putting +over hooks and lines, we caught several halibut. + +At midnight, being past the rocks, we bore up to the southward, and, +at noon, St Hermogenes bore N., four leagues distant. At this time, +the southernmost point of the main land, within or to the westward of +St Hermogenes, lay N. 1/2 W., distant five leagues. This promontory, +which is situated in the latitude of 58 deg. 15', and in the longitude of +207 deg. 24', was named, after the day, _Cape Whitsunday_. A large bay, +which lies to the W. of it, obtained the name of _Whitsuntide Bay_. +The land on the E. side of this bay, of which Cape Whitsunday is the +most southern point, and Point Banks the northern one, is, in all +respects, like the island of St Hermogenes, seemingly destitute of +wood, and partly free from snow. It was supposed to be covered with a +mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. There were some reasons +to think it was an island. If this be so, the last-mentioned bay is +only the strait or passage that separates it from the main land.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Such seems to be the opinion of Arrowsmith, as indicated +by his map of America, 1804. That map, however, is far from being +minute or satisfactory as to this part of the voyage. The chart of +the Russian and English discoveries, which Mr Coxe has inserted in his +work so often alluded to, is perhaps a better guide. But indeed both +are faulty. The reader need not be informed that the geography of this +region is still very imperfect.--E.] + +Between one and two in the afternoon, the wind, which had been at +N.E., shifted at once to the southward. It was unsettled till six, +when it fixed at S., which was the very direction of our course, so +that we were obliged to ply up the coast. The weather was gloomy, and +the air dry, but cold. We stood to the eastward till midnight, then +tacked, and stood in for the land; and, between seven and eight in the +morning of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and not more +than half a league from some sunken rocks, which bore W.S.W. In this +situation we tacked in thirty-five fathoms water, the island of St +Hermogenes bearing N. 20 deg. E., and the southernmost land in sight, S. + +In standing in for this coast, we crossed the mouth of Whitsuntide +Bay, and saw land all round the bottom of it, so that either the land +is connected, or else the points lock in, one behind another. I am +more inclined to think, that the former is the case, and that the +land, east of the bay, is a part of the continent. Some small islands +lie on the west of the bay. The sea-coast to the southward of it is +rather low, with projecting rocky points, between which are small bays +or inlets. There was no wood, and but little snow upon the coast; but +the mountains, which lie at some distance inland, were wholly covered +with the latter. We stood off till noon, then tacked, and stood in +for the land. The latitude, at this time, was 57 deg. 52-1/2'; Cape St +Hermogenes bore N. 30 deg. W., eight leagues distant, and the southernmost +part of the coast in sight; the same that was seen before, bore S.W., +ten leagues distant. The land here forms a point, which was named +_Cape Greville_. It lies in the latitude of 57 deg. 33', and in the +longitude of 207 deg. 15', and is distant fifteen leagues from Cape St +Hermogenes, in the direction of S. 17 deg. W. + +The three following days we had almost constant misty weather, with +drizzling rain, so that we seldom had a sight of the coast. The wind +was S.E. by S., and S.S.E., a gentle breeze, and the air raw and cold. +With this wind and weather, we continued to ply up the coast, making +boards of six or eight leagues each. The depth of water was from +thirty to fifty-five fathoms, over a coarse, black sandy bottom. + +The fog clearing up, with the change of the wind to S.W., in the +evening of the 12th, we had a sight of the land bearing W., twelve +leagues distant. We stood in for it early next morning. At noon we +were not above three miles from it; an elevated point, which obtained +the name of _Cape Barnabas_, lying in the latitude of 57 deg. 13', bore +N.N. E. 1/2 E., ten miles distant, and the coast extended from N. 42 deg. +E., to W.S.W. The N.E. extreme was lost in a haze, but the point to +the S.W., whose elevated summit terminated in two round hills, on +that account was called _Two-headed Point_. This part of the coast, +in which are several small bays, is composed of high hills and deep +valleys, and in some places we could see the tops of other hills, +beyond those that form the coast, which was but little encumbered with +snow, but had a very barren appearance. Not a tree or bush was to be +seen upon it; and, in general, it had a brownish hue, probably the +effect of a mossy covering. + +I continued to ply to the S.W. by W., as the coast trended, and, at +six in the evening, being midway between Cape Barnabas and Two-headed +Point, and two leagues from the shore, the depth of water was +sixty-two fathoms. From this station, a low point of land made its +appearance beyond Two-headed Point, bearing S. 69 deg. W., and, without +it, other land that had the appearance of an island, bore S. 59 deg. W. + +At noon, on the 13th, being in latitude 56 deg. 49', Cape St Barnabas bore +N. 52 deg. E., Two-headed Point, N. 14 deg. W., seven or eight miles distant, +and the coast of the continent extended as far as S. 72 1/2 W., and +the land seen the preceding evening, and supposed to be an island, now +appeared like two islands. From whatever quarter Two-headed Point +was viewed, it had the appearance of being an island, or else it is a +peninsula, on each side of which the shore forms a bay. The wind +still continued westerly, a gentle breeze, the weather rather dull and +cloudy, and the air sharp and dry. + +We were well up with the southernmost land next morning, and found it +to be an island, which was named _Trinity Island_. Its greatest extent +is six leagues in the direction of E. and W. Each end is elevated +naked land, and in the middle it is low, so that, at a distance, from +some points of view, it assumes the appearance of two islands. It lies +in the latitude of 56 deg. 36', and in the longitude of 205 deg., and between +two and three leagues from the continent, which space is interspersed +with small islands and rocks, but there seemed to be good passage +enough, and also safe anchorage. At first we were inclined to think, +that this was Beering's _Foggy Island_,[2] but its situation so near +the main does not suit his chart. + +[Footnote 2: _Tumannoi-ostrow_, c'est-a-dire, _L'isle +Nebuleuse_.--Muller, p. 261.] + +At eight in the evening, we stood in for the land, till we were within +a league of the above-mentioned small islands. The westernmost part of +the continent now in sight, being a low point facing Trinity Island, +and which we called _Cape Trinity_, now bore W.N.W. In this situation, +having tacked in fifty-four fathoms water, over a bottom of black +sand, we stood over for the island, intending to work up between it +and the main. The land to the westward of Two-headed Point, is not so +mountainous as it is to the N.E. of it, nor does so much snow lie upon +it. There are, however, a good many hills considerably elevated, but +they are disjoined by large tracts of flat land that appeared to be +perfectly destitute of wood, and very barren. + +As we were standing over toward the island, we met two men in a small +canoe, paddling from it to the main. Far from approaching us, they +seemed rather to avoid it. The wind now began to incline to the +S., and we had reason to expect, that it would soon be at the S.E. +Experience having taught us, that a south-easterly wind was here +generally, if not always, accompanied by a thick fog, I was afraid to +venture through between the island and the continent, lest the passage +should not be accomplished before night, or before the thick weather +came on, when we should be obliged to anchor, and by that means lose +the advantage of a fair wind. These reasons induced me to stretch out +to sea, and we passed two or three rocky islets that lie near the east +end of Trinity Island. At four in the afternoon, having weathered the +island, we tacked, and steered west-southerly, with a fresh gale at +S.S.E., which, before midnight, veered to the S.E., and was, as usual, +attended with misty, drizzling, rainy weather. + +By the course we steered all night, I was in hopes of falling in with +the continent in the morning. And, doubtless, we should have seen it, +had the weather been in the least clear, but the fog prevented. Seeing +no land at noon, and the gale increasing, with a thick fog and rain, I +steered W.N.W., under such sail as we could easily haul the wind with, +being fully sensible of the danger of running before a strong gale +in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown coast. It was, however, +necessary to run some risk when the wind favoured us; for clear +weather, we had found, was generally accompanied with winds from the +west. + +Between two and three in the afternoon, land was seen through the fog, +bearing N.W., not more than three or four miles distant. Upon this, +we immediately hauled up south, close to the wind. Soon after, the two +courses were split, so that we had others to bring to the yards, and +several others of our sails received considerable damage. At nine, the +gale abated, the weather cleared up, and we lost sight of the coast +again, extending from W. by S. to N.W., about four or five leagues +distant. On sounding, we found a hundred fathoms water, over a muddy +bottom. Soon after, the fog returned, and we saw no more of the land +all night. + +At four next morning, the fog being now dispersed, we found ourselves +in a manner surrounded by land; the continent, or what was supposed +to be the continent, extending from W.S.W. to N.E. by N., and some +elevated land bearing S.E. 1/2 S., by estimation eight or nine leagues +distant. The N.E. extreme of the main was the same point of land that +we had fallen in with during the fog, and we named it _Foggy Cape_. It +lies in latitude 56 deg. 31'. At this time, having had but little wind all +night, a breeze sprung up at N.W. With this we stood to the southward, +to make the land, seen in that direction, plainer. + +At nine o'clock, we found it to be an island of about nine leagues +in compass, lying in the latitude of 56 deg. 10', and in the longitude of +202 deg. 46'; and it is distinguished in our chart by the name of _Foggy +Island_, having reason to believe, from its situation, that it is the +same which had that name given to it by Beering. At the same time, +three or four islands, lying before a bay, formed by the coast of the +main land; bore N. by W.; a point, with three or four pinnacle rocks +upon it, which was called _Pinnacle Point_, bore N.W. by W.; and a +cluster of small islets, or rocks, lying about nine leagues from the +coast, S.S.E. + +At noon, when our latitude was 56 deg. 9', and our longitude 201 deg. 45', +these rocks bore S. 58' E., ten miles distant; Pinnacle Point, N.N.W., +distant seven leagues; the nearest part of the main land N.W. by W., +six leagues distant; and the most advanced land to the S.W., which had +the appearance of being an island, bore W., a little southerly. In +the afternoon, we had little or no wind, so that our progress was +inconsiderable. At eight in the evening, the coast extended from S.W. +to N.N.E., the nearest part about eight leagues distant. + +On the 17th, the wind was between W. and N.W., a gentle breeze, and +sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp +and dry. At noon, the continent extended from S.W. to N. by E., the +nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands lying +about the same distance from the continent, extended from S. 26 deg. W. to +S. 52 deg. W. + +It was calm great part of the 18th, and the weather was clear and +pleasant. We availed ourselves of this, by making observations for the +longitude and variation. The latter was found to be 21 deg. 27' E. There +can be no doubt that there is a continuation of the continent between +Trinity Island and Foggy Cape, which the thick weather prevented us +from seeing. For some distance to the S.W., of that cape, this country +is more broken or rugged than any part we had yet seen, both with +respect to the hills themselves, and to the coast, which seemed full +of creeks, or small inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great +depth. Perhaps, upon a closer examination, some of the projecting +points between these inlets will be found to be islands. Every part +had a very barren aspect, and was covered with snow, from the summits +of the highest hills, down to a very small distance from the sea +coast. + +Having occasion to send a boat on board the Discovery, one of the +people in her shot a very beautiful bird of the hawk kind. It is +somewhat less than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore-part +of the head, which is white, and from above and behind each eye arises +an elegant yellowish-white crest, revolved backward as a ram's horn. +The bill and feet are red. It is, perhaps, the _alca monochroa_ of +Steller, mentioned in the history of Kamtschatka.[3] I think the first +of these birds was seen by us a little to the southward of Cape St +Hermogenes. From that time, we generally saw some of them every day, +and sometimes in large flocks. Besides these, we daily saw most of +the other sea-birds, that are commonly found in other northern oceans, +such as gulls, shags, puffins, sheerwaters, and sometimes ducks, +geese, and swans. And seldom a day passed without seeing seals, +whales, and ether large fish. + +[Footnote 3: P. 158. Eng. Trans.--The Tufted Aek.--_Pennant's Arct. +Zool._ ii. N deg.. 432.] + +In the afternoon, we got a light breeze of wind southerly, which +enabled us to steer W., for the channel that appeared between the +islands and the continent; and, at day-break next morning, we were +at no great distance from it, and found several other islands, +within those already seen by us, of various extent both in height and +circuit. But between these last islands, and those before seen, there +seemed to be a clear channel, for which I steered, being afraid to +keep the coast of the continent aboard, lest we should mistake some +point of it for an island, and, by that means, be drawn into some +inlet, and lose the advantage of the fair wind, which at this time +blew. + +I therefore kept along the southernmost chain of islands, and at noon +we were in the latitude of 55 deg. 18', and in the narrowest part of the +channel, formed by them and those which lie along the continent, where +it is about a league and a half, or two leagues over. The largest +island in this group was now on our left, and is distinguished by +the name of _Kodiak_,[4] according to the information we afterwards +received. I left the rest of them without names. I believe them to be +the same that Beering calls Schumagin's Islands,[5] or those which he +called by that name, to be a part of them, for this group is pretty +extensive. We saw islands as far to the southward as an island could +be seen. They commence in the longitude of 200 deg. 15' E., and extend +a degree and a half, or two degrees, to the westward. I cannot be +particular, as we could not distinguish all the islands from the coast +of the continent. Most of these islands are of a good height, +very barren and rugged, abounding with rocks and steep cliffs, and +exhibiting other romantic appearances. There are several snug bays +and coves about them, streams of fresh water run from their elevated +parts, some drift-wood was floating around, but not a tree or bush was +to be seen growing on the land. A good deal of snow still lay on +many of them, and the parts of the continent, which shewed themselves +between the innermost islands, were quite covered with it.[6] + +[Footnote 4: See an account of Kodiac, in Staehlin's New Northern +Archipelago, p. 30-39.] + +[Footnote 5: See Muller's _Decouvertes des Russes_, p. 262-277.] + +[Footnote 6: Coxe's work maybe advantageously consulted for +information respecting the islands now mentioned. But few persons, it +is presumed, feel so interested about them, as to desire any addition +to the text. Besides, though a connected account of this archipelago +might be either amusing or necessary, it is obvious that detached +notices would have little value to commend them to attention.--E.] + +At four in the afternoon, we had passed all the islands that lay to +the southward of us; the southernmost, at this time, bearing S. 5 deg. +E., and the westernmost point of land now in sight, S. 82 deg. W. For +this point we steered, and passed between it and two or three elevated +rocks that lie about a league to the east of it. + +Some time after we had got through this channel, in which we found +forty fathoms water, the Discovery, now about two miles astern, fired +three guns, and brought-to, and made a signal to speak with us. This +alarmed me not a little; and, as no apparent danger had been remarked +in the passage through the channel, it was apprehended that some +accident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. A boat was +immediately sent to her, and in a short time returned with Captain +Clerke. I now learned from him, that some natives, in three or four +canoes, who had been following the ship for some time, at length got +under his stern. One of them then made many signs, taking off his cap, +and bowing, after the manner of Europeans. A rope being handed down +from the ship, to this he fastened a small thin wooden case or box, +and having delivered this safe, and spoken something, and made some +more signs, the canoes dropped astern, and left the Discovery. No one +on board her had any suspicion that the box contained any thing, till +after the departure of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, +and a piece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which +something was written in the Russian language, as was supposed. The +date 1778 was prefixed to it, and, in the body of the written note, +there was a reference to the year 1776. Not learned enough to decypher +the alphabet of the writer, his numerals marked sufficiently that +others had preceded us in visiting this dreary part of the globe, who +were united to us by other ties besides those of our common nature; +and the hopes of soon meeting with some of the Russian traders could +not but give a sensible satisfaction to those who had, for such a +length of time, been conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, +and of the continent of North America. + +Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion, that some Russians had been +shipwrecked here, and that these unfortunate persons, seeing our ships +pass, had taken this method to inform us of their situation. Impressed +with humane sentiments, on such an occasion, he was desirous of +our stopping till they might have time to join us. But no such idea +occurred to me. It seemed obvious, that if this had been the case, it +would have been the first step taken by such shipwrecked persons, in +order to secure to themselves, and to their companions, the relief +they could not but be solicitous about, to send some of their body off +to the ships in the canoes. For this reason, I rather thought that the +paper contained a note of information, left by some Russian trader, +who had lately been amongst these islands, to be delivered to the next +of their countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, seeing +our ships pass, and supposing us to be Russians, had resolved to bring +off the note, thinking it might induce us to stop. Fully convinced of +this, I did not stay to enquire any farther into the matter, but +made sail, and stood away to the westward, along the coast; perhaps +I should say along the islands, for we could not pronounce, with +certainty, whether the nearest land, within us, was continent or +islands. If not the latter, the coast here forms some tolerably large +and deep bays. + +We continued to run all night with a gentle breeze at N.E., and, at +two o'clock next morning, some breakers were seen within us, at the +distance of about two miles. Two hours after, others were seen a-head, +and on our larboard bow, and between us and the land, they were +innumerable. We did but just clear them, by holding a south course. +These breakers were occasioned by rocks, some of which were above +water. They extend seven leagues from the land, and are very +dangerous, especially in thick weather, to which this coast seems +much subject. At noon, we had just got on their outside, and, by +observation, we were in the latitude of 54 deg. 44', and in the longitude +of 198 deg.. The nearest land, being an elevated bluff point, which was +called _Rock Point_, bore N., seven or eight leagues distant; the +westernmost part of the main, or what was supposed to be the main, +bore N. 80 deg. W.; and a round hill, without, which was found to be +an island, and was called _Halibut-Head_, bore S. 64 deg. W., thirteen +leagues distant. + +On the 21st at noon, having made but little progress, on account of +faint winds and calms, Halibut-Head, which lies in the latitude of 54 deg. +27', and in the longitude of 197 deg., bore N. 24 deg. W., and the island on +which it is, and called _Halibut Island_, extended from N. by E. to +N.W. by W., two leagues distant. This island is seven or eight leagues +in circuit, and, except the head, the land of it is low and very +barren. There are several small islands near it, all of the same +appearance, but there seemed to be a passage between them and the +main, two or three leagues broad.[7] + +[Footnote 7: So Arrowsmith's map has it. The chart in Coxe's work, 4th +edition, does not mention Halibut Island.--E.] + +The rocks and breakers, before mentioned, forced us so far from the +continent, that we had but a distant view of the coast between Rock +Point and Halibut Island. Over this and the adjoining islands we could +see the main land covered with snow, but particularly some hills, +whose elevated tops were seen, towering above the clouds, to a +most stupendous height. The most south-westerly of these hills was +discovered to have a _volcano_, which continually threw up vast +columns of black smoke. It stands not far from the coast, and in the +latitude of 54 deg. 48', and in the longitude of 195 deg. 45'. It is also +remarkable from its figure, which is a complete cone, and the volcano +is at the very summit. We seldom saw this (or indeed any other of +these mountains) wholly clear of clouds. At times, both base and +summit would be clear, when a narrow cloud, sometimes two or three, +one above another, would embrace the middle like a girdle, which, with +the column of smoke, rising perpendicular to a great height out of its +top, and spreading before the wind into a tail of vast length, made a +very picturesque appearance. It may be worth remarking, that the +wind, at the height to which the smoke of this volcano reached, moved +sometimes in a direction contrary to what it did at sea, even when it +blew a fresh gale. + +In the afternoon, having three hours calm, our people caught upwards +of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds, and +none less than twenty pounds. This was a very seasonable refreshment +to us. In the height of our fishing, which was in thirty-five +fathoms water, and three or four miles from the shore, a small canoe, +conducted by one man, came to us from the large island. On approaching +the ship, be took off his cap, and bowed, as the other had done, +who visited the Discovery the preceding day. It was evident that the +Russians must have a communication and traffic with these people, +not only from their acquired politeness, but from the note before +mentioned. But we had now a fresh proof of it; for our present visitor +wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth or +stuff, under the gut-shirt or frock of his own country. He had nothing +to barter, except a grey fox skin, and some fishing implements or +harpoons, the heads of the shafts of which, for the length of a foot +or more, were neatly made of bone, as thick as a walking cane, and +carved. He had with him a bladder full of something, which we supposed +to be oil, for he opened it, took a mouthful, and then fastened it +again. + +His canoe was of the same make with those we had seen before, but +rather smaller. He used a double bladed-paddle, as did also those +who had visited the Discovery. In his size and features, he exactly +resembled those we saw in Prince William's Sound, and in the Great +River, but he was quite free from paint of any kind, and had the +perforation of his lips made in an oblique direction, without any +ornament in it. He did not seem to understand any of the words +commonly used by our visitors in the Sound, when repeated to him. But, +perhaps, our faulty pronunciation, rather than his ignorance of the +dialect, may be inferred from this. + +The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then sunshine, till the +afternoon of the 22d, when the wind came round to the S.E., and, as +usual, brought thick rainy weather. Before the fog came on, no part of +the main land was in sight, except the volcano, and another mountain +close by it. I continued to steer W. till seven in the evening, when, +being apprehensive of falling in with the land in thick weather, we +hauled the wind to the southward, till two o'clock next morning, +and then bore away W. We made but little progress, having the wind +variable, and but little of it, till at last it fixed in the western +board, and at five in the afternoon, having a gleam of sunshine, we +saw land bearing N. 59 deg. W., appearing in hillocks like islands. + +At six in the morning of the 24th, we got a sight of the continent, +and at nine it was seen extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. 1/2 +W., the nearest part about four leagues distant. The land to the +S.W. proved to be islands, the same that had been seen the preceding +evening. But the other was a continuation of the continent, without +any islands to obstruct our view of it. In the evening, being about +four leagues from the shore, in forty-two fathoms water, having little +or no wind, we had recourse to our hooks and lines, but only two or +three small cod were caught. + +The next morning we got a breeze easterly, and what was uncommon with +this wind, clear weather, so that we not only saw the volcano, but +other mountains, both to the east and west of it, and all the coast +of the main land under them, much plainer than at any time before. It +extended from N.E. by N. to N.W. 1/2 W., where it seemed to terminate. +Between this point and the islands without it, there appeared a large +opening, for which I steered, till we raised land beyond it. This +land, although we did not perceive that it joined the continent, made +a passage through the opening very doubtful. It also made it doubtful, +whether the land which we saw to the S.W., was insular or continental, +and, if the latter, it was obvious that the opening would be a deep +bay or inlet, from which, if once we entered it with an easterly wind, +it would not be so easy to get out. Not caring, therefore, to trust +too much to appearances, I steered to the southward. Having thus got +without all the land in sight, I then steered west, in which direction +the islands lay, for such we found this land to be. + +By eight o'clock we had passed three of them, all of a good height. +More of them were now seen to the westward, the south-westernmost part +of them bearing W.N.W. The weather, in the afternoon, became gloomy, +and at length turned to a mist, and the wind blew fresh at E. I +therefore, at ten at night, hauled the wind to the southward till +day-break, when we resumed our course to the W. + +Day-light availed us little, for the weather was so thick, that we +could not see a hundred yards before us; but as the wind was now +moderate, I ventured to run. At half-past four, we were alarmed at +hearing the sound of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving +the lead, we found twenty-eight fathoms water, and the next cast, +twenty-five. I immediately brought the ship to, with her head to the +northward, and anchored in this last depth, over a bottom of coarse +sand, calling to the Discovery, she being close by us, to anchor also. + +A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared +that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three +quarters of a mile from the N.E. side of an island, which extended +from S. by W. 1/2 W. to N. by E. 1/2 E., each extreme about a league +distant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing S. by E., and the other +E. by S., were about half a league each from us, and about the same +distance from each other. There were several breakers about them, and +yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the ships through, between +these rocks, which I should not have ventured in a clear day, and to +such an anchoring-place, that I could not have chosen a better. + +Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine what +it produced. In the afternoon she returned, and the officer, who +commanded her, reported, that it produced some tolerable good grass, +and several other small plants, one of which was like purslain, and +eat very well, either in soups or as a sallad. There was no appearance +of shrubs or trees, but on the beach were a few pieces of drift wood. +It was judged to be low water between ten and eleven o'clock, and we +found, where we lay at anchor, that the flood-tide came from the E. or +S.E. + +In the night, the wind blew fresh at S., but was more moderate toward +the morning, and the fog partly dispersed. Having weighed at seven +o'clock, we steered to the northward, between the island under which +we had anchored, and another small one near it. The channel is not +above a mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, +and we were obliged to anchor in thirty-four fathoms water. We had now +land in every direction. That to the S., extended to the S.W., in +a ridge of mountains, but our sight could not determine whether it +composed one or more islands. We afterward found it to be only one +island, and known by the name of _Oonalashka_. Between it, and the +land to the N., which had the appearance of being a group of islands, +there seemed to be a channel, in the direction of N.W. by N. On a +point, which bore W. from the ship, three quarters of a mile distant, +were several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw them +tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of +them, now and then, came off to the ships, and bartered a few trifling +things with our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour +at a time. On the contrary, they rather seemed shy, and yet we could +judge that they were no strangers to vessels, in some degree, like +ours. They behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage +tribes. + +At one o'clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at N.E., and +the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed, and steered for the +channel above-mentioned, in hopes, after we were through, of finding +the land trend away to the northward, or, at least, a passage out to +sea to the W. For we supposed ourselves, as it really happened, to be +amongst islands, and not in an inlet of the continent. We had not been +long under sail, before the wind veered to the N., which obliged us +to ply. The soundings were from forty to twenty-seven fathoms, over a +bottom of sand and mud. In the evening, the ebb making against us, we +anchored about three leagues from our last station, with the passage +bearing N.W. + +At day-break the next morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at S., +which carried us up to the passage, when it was succeeded by variable +light airs from all directions. But as there run a rapid tide in our +favour, the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery +was not so fortunate. She was carried back, got into the race, and had +some trouble to get clear of it. As soon as we were through, the land +on one side was found to trend W. and S.W., and that on the other side +to trend N. This gave us great reason to hope, that the continent had +here taken a new direction, which was much in our favour. Being in +want of water, and perceiving that we run some risk of driving about +in a rapid tide, without wind to govern the ship, I stood for a +harbour, lying on the S. side of the passage, but we were very soon +driven past it, and, to prevent being forced back through the passage, +came to an anchor in twenty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the +southern shore, out of the reach of the strong tide. And yet, even +here, we found it to run full five knots and a half in the hour. + +While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us, each in a +canoe, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, +a young man, overset his canoe, while along-side of one of our boats. +Our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift, and, being +picked up by another, was carried ashore. The youth, by this accident, +was obliged to come into the ship; and he went down into my cabin, +upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or +uneasiness. His dress was an upper garment, like a shirt, made of the +large gut of some sea-animal, probably the whale, and an under garment +of the same shape, made of the skins of birds, dressed with the +feathers on, and neatly sewed together, the feathered side being wore +next his skin. It was mended or patched with pieces of silk-stuff, and +his cap was ornamented with two or three sorts of glass beads. His own +clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with +as much ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and that of +some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to +Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in +our ships that greatly excited their curiosity; for such as could not +come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at +them.[8] + +[Footnote 8: Of Oonalashka, Unalashka, or Aghunalaska, for it is known +by these three names, Mr Coxe has presented several interesting +enough notices. The Russians were no strangers to it previous to this +voyage.--E.] + +At low water, having weighed and towed the ship into the harbour, we +anchored there in nine fathoms water, over a bottom of sand and mud. +The Discovery got in soon after. A launch was now sent for water, and +a boat to draw the seine, but we caught only four trout, and a few +other small fish. + +Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such +another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it +to me, but it was written in the Russian language, which, as already +observed, none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and +might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and +dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, +by making several low bows as he retired. + +In walking, next day, along the shore, I met with a group of natives +of both sexes, seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of raw +fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a +turbot, served up with the richest sauce. By the evening, we had +completed our water, and made such observations as the time and +weather would permit. I have taken notice of the rapidity of the tide +without the harbour, but it was inconsiderable within. It was low +water at noon, and high water at half-past six in the evening, and the +water rose, upon a perpendicular, three feet four inches, but there +were marks of its sometimes rising a foot higher. + +Thick fogs, and a contrary-wind, detained us till the 2d of July, +which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the +country and of its inhabitants. The result of our observations will +be mentioned in another place. At present I shall only describe the +harbour. + +It is called, by the natives, _Samganoodha_, and is situated on the +north side of Oonalashka, in the latitude of 58 deg. 55', in the longitude +of 193 deg. 30'; and in the strait, or passage, that separates this island +from those that lie to the north of it, and whose position before the +harbour shelters it from the winds that blow from that quarter. It +runs in S. by W., about four miles, and is about a mile broad at the +entrance, narrowing toward the head, where its breadth is not above a +quarter of a mile, and where ships can lie land-locked, in seven, six, +and four fathoms water. Great plenty of good water may be easily got, +but not a single stick of wood of any size. + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka.--The Islands +Oonella and Acootan.--Ooneemak.--Shallowness of the Water along +the Coast--Bristol Bay.--Round Island.--Calm Point.--Cape +Newenham.--Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report.--Bristol +Bay, and its Extent.--The Ships obliged to return on account of +Shoals.--Natives come off to the Ships.--Death of Mr Anderson; his +Character; and Island named after him.--Point Rodney.--Sledge Island, +and Remarks on Landing there.--King's Island.--Cape Prince of Wales, +the Western Extreme of America. Course Westward.--Anchor in a Bay on +the Coast of Asia._ + +Having put to sea with a light breeze, at S.S.E., we steered to the +N., meeting with nothing to obstruct us in this course. For, as I +observed before, the island of Oonalashka on the one side, trended +S.W., and on the other, no land was to be seen in a direction more +northerly than N.E., the whole of which laud was a continuation of the +same group of islands which we had fallen in with on the 25th of June. +That which lies before Samganoodha, and forms the N.E. side of the +passage through which we came, is called _Oonella_, and is about seven +leagues in circumference. Another island to the N.E. of it, is called +_Acootan_, which is considerably larger than Oonella, and hath in it +some very high mountains which were covered with snow. It appeared, +that we might have gone very safely between, these two islands and +the continent, the S.W. point of which opened off the N.E. point of +Acootan, in the direction of N. 60 deg. E.; and which proved to be the +same point of land we had seen when we quitted the coast of the +continent, on the 25th of June, to go without the islands. It is +called by the people of these parts _Ooneemak_, and lies in the +latitude of 54 deg. 30', and in the longitude of 192 deg. 30'. Over the cape, +which of itself is high land, is a round elevated mountain, at this +time entirely covered with snow. + +At six in the evening, this mountain bore E. 2 deg. N., and at eight we +had no land in sight. Concluding, therefore, that the coast of the +continent had now taken a north-easterly direction, I ventured to +steer the same course till one o'clock the next morning, when the +watch on deck thought they saw land a-head. Upon this we wore, and +stood to the S.W. for two hours, and then resumed our course to the +E.N.E. + +At six o'clock, land was seen a-head, bearing S.E., about five leagues +distant. As we advanced, we raised more and more land, all connected, +and seemingly in the direction of our course. At noon, it extended +from S.S.W. to E., the nearest part five or six leagues distant; Our +latitude at this time was 55 deg. 21', and our longitude 195 deg. 18'. This +coast is on the N.W. side of the volcano mountain, so that we must +have seen it, if the weather had been tolerably clear. + +At six in the evening, after having run eight leagues upon an E. by +N. course from noon, we sounded, and found forty-eight fathoms, over +a bottom of black sand. Being at this time four leagues from the land, +the eastern part in sight bore E.S.E., and appeared as a high round +hummock, seemingly detached from the main. + +Having continued to steer E.N.E. all night, at eight in the morning of +the 4th, the coast was seen from S.S.W. to E. by S.; and at times we +could see high land, covered with snow behind it. Soon after it fell +calm, and being in thirty fathoms water, we put over hooks and lines, +and caught a good number of cod-fish. At noon, having now a breeze +from the east, and the weather being clear, we found ourselves six +leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to E. by S. The +hummock, seen the preceding evening, bore S.W. by S. ten leagues +distant. Our latitude was now 55 deg. 50', and our longitude 197 deg. 3'. A +great hollow swell, from W.S.W., assured us that there was no main +land near in that direction. I stood to the N. till six in the +afternoon, when the wind having veered to S.E., enabled us to steer +E.N.E. The coast lay in this direction, and at noon, the next day, was +about four leagues distant. + +On the 6th and 7th, the wind being northerly, we made but little +progress. At eight in the evening of the latter, we were in nineteen +fathoms water, and about three or four leagues from the coast, which, +on the 8th, extended from S.S.W. to E. by N., and was all low +land, with a ridge of mountains behind it, covered with snow. It is +probable, that this low coast extends, some distance, to the S.W.; and +that such places as we sometimes, took for inlets or bays, are only +valleys between the mountains. + +On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at N.W., we steered E. by N., +to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were in the latitude of 57 deg. 49', +and in the longitude of 201 deg. 33', and about two leagues from the land, +which extended from S. by E. to E.N.E.; being all a low coast, with +points shooting out in some places, which, from the deck, appeared +like islands; but, from the mast-head, low land was seen to connect +them. In this situation, the depth of water was fifteen fathoms, the +bottom a fine black sand. + +As we had advanced to the N.E., we had found the depth of water +gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more and more northerly. +But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same +direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of the low +land, between the foot of the mountains and the sea-coast, insensibly +increased. Both high and low grounds were perfectly destitute of wood; +but seemed to be covered with a green turf, except the mountains, +which were covered with snow. Continuing to steer along the coast, +with a gentle breeze, westerly, the water gradually shoaled from +fifteen to ten fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten +miles from the shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated mountain, +which had been in sight for some time, bore S.E. by E., twenty-one +leagues distant. Some other mountains, belonging to the same chain, +and much farther distant, bore E. 3 deg. N. The coast extended as far as +N.E. 1/2 N., where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which we +hoped and expected, that it would take a more easterly direction. But, +soon after, we discovered low land, extending from behind this point, +as far as N.W. by W., where it was lost in the horizon; and behind it +was high land, that appeared in detached hills. + +Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north vanished in a +moment. I stood on till nine o'clock, for so long it was light, and +then the point above mentioned bore N.E. 1/2 E., about three miles +distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed +to be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water +appeared to be discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have +given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, +through the great flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the +S.E., and the hills to the N.W. It must abound with salmon, as we saw +many leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found +in the maws of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, +distinguished by the name of _Bristol River_, lies in the latitude of +58 deg. 27', and in the longitude of 201 deg. 55'.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Mr Arrowsmith lays down this river, but without naming +it. Mr Coxe does neither. Both of them specify Bristol Bay. Mr A.'s +delineation of the coast of the peninsular projection, corresponds +extremely well with Captain Cook's description.--E.] + +Having spent the night in making short boards, at day-break on the +morning of the 10th, we made sail to the W.S.W., with a gentle breeze +at N.E. At eleven o'clock, we thought the coast to the N.W. terminated +in a point, bearing N.W. by W.; and as we had now deepened the water +from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering the +Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run a mile, she made a +signal for shoal water. At that instant we had the depth of seven +fathoms; and before we could get the ship's head the other way, had +less than five; but the Discovery had less than four. + +We stood back to the N.E. three or four miles; but finding there was +a strong tide or current setting to the W.S.W., that is toward the +shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. Two +hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward; +which proved, that it was the tide of ebb that came from, the river +above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had taken +up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea-water. This +furnished another proof that we were before a large river. + +At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to S.W., we weighed, and +stood to the southward, with boats ahead, sounding; and passed over +the south end of the shoal in six fathoms water. We then got into +thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored, at half-past +eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the S.E. shore, in +sight, bearing S.E. 1/2 S., and the westernmost land, on the other +shore, N.W. We had, in the course of the day, seen high land, bearing +N. 60 deg. W., by estimation twelve leagues distant. + +Having weighed next morning, at two o'clock, with a light breeze +at S.W. by W., we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the +flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in +twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had +prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, +we weighed, and plied to the S.W. in the evening, the wind was very +variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before since our +arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance. + +The wind having settled again in the S.W. quarter, in the morning of +the 12th, we stood to the N.W., and at ten saw the continent. At noon, +it extended from N.E. by N., to N.W. 1/4 W.; and an elevated hill bore +N.N.W., ten leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which, +from its figure, obtained the name of _Round Island_. It lies in the +latitude of 58 deg. 37', and in the longitude of 200 deg. 6', and seven miles +from the continent. In the evening, at nine, having stood to the +northward to within three leagues of the shore, we tacked in fourteen +fathoms water; the extremes of the coast bearing E.S.E. 1/2 E. and W. +The wind veering to the N.W. enabled us to make a good stretch along +shore till two o'clock in the morning, when we got all at once into +six fathoms water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. +After edging off a little, our depth gradually increased, and at +noon we had twenty fathoms, when the latitude was 53 deg. 13', and the +longitude 199 deg.. Round Island bore N., 5 deg. E.; and the west extreme of +the coast N., 16 deg. W., seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, +which obtained the name of _Calm Point_, from our having calm weather +when off it. To the N.W. of Round Island are two or three hillocks +that appeared like islands; and it is possible they may be such; for +we had but a distant view of the coast in this place.[2] + +[Footnote 2: Both Round Island and Calm Point are named by Coxe; +Arrowsmith marks them, but has omitted the names.--E.] + +During the 14th and 15th our progress was slow, having little wind, +and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the +ship. The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we +had tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few +flat fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared +up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point +bore N., 72 deg. E., and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction +of W., bore N., 30 deg. E., three miles distant. Between these two points, +the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly +visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the N.W. side of +this last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which at this +time bore N., 36 deg. W. sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant +Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what +direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced; +for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the +flood-tide setting strongly to the N.W. along the coast. At noon it +was high water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues +distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in +our favour, we weighed, and drove with it, for there was no wind. + +Soon after, Mr Williamson returned; and reported, that he had landed +on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found, that +the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took +possession of the country in his majesty's name; and left on the hill +a bottle, in which was inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of +the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which +he gave the name of _Cape Newenham_, is a rocky point, of tolerable +height, situated in the latitude of 58 deg. 42', and in the longitude +of 197 deg. 36'. Over, or within it, are two elevated hills, rising one +behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The +country, as far as Mr Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor +shrub. The hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and +other plants, very few of which were in flower. He saw no other animal +but a doe and a fawn; and a dead sea-horse or cow upon the beach. Of +these animals we had lately seen a great many. + +As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that Cape +fixes the northern limit of the great bay and gulf lying before the +river Bristol, which, in honour of the Admiral, Earl of Bristol, was +named _Bristol Bay_. _Cape Ooneemak_ is the south limit of this bay; +and is distant eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction +of S.S.W.[3] + +[Footnote 3: Cape Newenham is mentioned by Arrowsmith, but not by +Coxe; both have Shoal Ness, soon to be spoken of.--E.] + +About eight in the evening, a light breeze springing up, which fixed +at S.S.E., we steered N.W. and N.N.W., round Cape Newenham, which, at +noon next day, bore S. by E., distant four leagues. At this time the +most advanced land to the northward bore N., 30 deg. E.; our depth of +water was seventeen fathoms, and the nearest shore 3-1/2 leagues +distant. We had but little wind all the afternoon; so that, at ten at +night, we had only made three leagues upon a north course. + +We steered N. by W. till eight the next morning, when, our depth of +water decreasing suddenly to five and seven fathoms, we brought-to, +till a boat from each ship was sent ahead to sound, and then steered +N.E. after them; and at noon we had deepened the water to seventeen +fathoms. At this time, Cape Newenham bore S., 9 deg. E., distant eleven or +twelve leagues; the N.E. extreme of the land in sight N., 66 deg. E.; and +the nearest shore about four or five leagues distant. Our latitude, by +observation, was 59 deg. 16'. + +Between this latitude and Cape Newenham, the coast is composed of +hills and low land, and appeared to form several bays. A little before +one o'clock, the boats ahead made the signal for meeting with shoal +water. It seems they had only two fathoms; and at the same time the +ships were in six fathoms. By hauling a little more to the northward, +we continued in much the same depth till between five and six o'clock, +when the boats meeting with less and less water, I made the signal +to the Discovery, she being then ahead, to anchor, which we did soon +after. In bringing our ship up, the cable parted at the clinch, which +obliged us to come-to with the other anchor. We rode in six fathoms +water, a sandy bottom, and about four or five leagues from the +main land; Cape Newenham bearing S., seventeen leagues distant. The +farthest hills we could see to the north, bore N.E. by E.; but there +was low land stretching out from the high land as far as N. by E. +Without this was a shoal of sand and stones, that was dry at half ebb. + +I had sent the two masters, each in a boat, to sound between this +shoal and the coast. On their return, they reported, that there was a +channel, in which they found six and seven fathoms water; but that it +was narrow and intricate. At low water, we made an attempt to get a +hawser round the lost anchor, but did not succeed then. However, +being determined not to leave it behind me, as long as there was a +probability of recovering it, I persevered in my endeavours, and at +last succeeded in the evening of the 20th. + +While we were thus employed, I ordered Captain Clerke to send his +master in a boat to look for a passage in the S.W. quarter. He did so; +but no channel was to be found in that direction; nor did there appear +to be any way to get clear of these shoals, but to return by the track +which had brought us in. For although, by following the channel +we were in, we might probably have got farther down the coast; and +though, possibly, this channel might have led us at last to the north, +clear of the shoals, still the attempt would have been attended with +vast risk; and if we should not have succeeded, there would have been +a considerable loss of time that could ill be spared. These reasons +induced me to return by the way in which we came; and so get without +the shoals. + +A number of lunar observations, made by Mr King and myself on this +and the four preceding days, and all reduced to the ship's present +station, gave the longitude + + 197 deg. 45' 48" + By the time-keeper it was 197 26 48 + Our latitude was 59 37 30 + Variation by the \ A.M. 23 deg. 34' 3" \ + mean of three } P.M. 22 19 40 / mean 22 deg. 56' 51" E. + compasses, / + +The northernmost part of the coast that we could see from this +station, I judged to lie in the latitude of 60 deg.. It seemed to form a +low point, which obtained the name of _Shoal-Ness_. + +The tide of flood sets to the north, and the ebb to the south. It +rises and falls, upon a perpendicular, five or six feet; and I reckon +it to be high-water on the full and change days at eight o'clock. + +Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, with a light +breeze at N.N.W., we steered back to the southward, having three boats +ahead to direct us. But, notwithstanding this precaution, we found +more difficulty in returning than we had in advancing; and at last +were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had +only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the +country, each in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached +with great caution, hollowing and opening their arms as they advanced. +This, we understood, was to express their pacific intentions. At +length, some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were +thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture alongside; and +a traffic presently commenced between them and our people; who got +dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our +visitors taking in exchange for these whatever was offered them. They +seemed to be the same sort of people that we had of late met with all +along this coast; wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and +noses; but were far more dirty, and not so well clothed. They appeared +to be wholly unacquainted with people like us; they knew not the use +of tobacco; nor was any foreign article seen in their possession, +unless a knife may be looked upon as such. This, indeed, was only a +piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the +purpose of a knife. They, however, knew the value and use of this +instrument so well, that it seemed to be the only article they wished +for. Most of them had their hair shaved or cut short off, leaving only +a few locks behind, or on one side. For a covering for the head they +wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which appeared to be of wool. One +part of their dress, which we got from them, was a kind of girdle, +very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending from it, and +passing between the legs, so as to conceal the adjoining parts. By +the use of such a girdle, it should seem that they sometimes go naked, +even in this high latitude; for they would hardly wear it under their +other clothing. + +The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen; +only with this difference, that these were broader, and the hole in +which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our +boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all +left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done. + +It was the 22d in the evening before we got clear of these shoals, and +then I durst not venture to steer to the westward in the night, but +spent it off Cape Newenham; and at day-break, next morning, steered +to the N.W., ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two +leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. Fearing, if +we continued this course, that we should find less and less water, I +hauled to the southward; the wind being at east, a fresh breeze. This +course brought us gradually. into eighteen fathoms, and having that +depth, I ventured to steer a little westerly; and afterward west, when +we at last found twenty-six fathoms water. + +On the 24th at noon, we were, by observation in the latitude of 58 deg. +7', and in the longitude of 194 deg. 22'. Three leagues to the westward +of this station we had twenty-eight fathoms water, and then steered +W.N.W., the water gradually deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I +would have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that +direction, I could not. + +The 25th, in the evening, having a very thick fog, and but little +wind, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. Our latitude was now +58 deg. 29', and our longitude 191 deg. 37'. At six, the next morning, the +weather clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a small breeze +at east, steered north, our soundings being from twenty-eight to +twenty-five fathoms. After running nine leagues upon this course, +the wind returned back to the north, which obliged us to steer more +westerly. + +The weather continued for the most part foggy till toward noon on the +28th, when we had a few hours clear sunshine; during which we made +several lunar observations. The mean result of them, reduced to +noon, when the latitude was 59 deg. 55', gave 190 deg. 6' longitude; and the +time-keeper gave 189 deg. 59'. The variation of the compass was 18 deg. 40' +E. Continuing our westerly course, the water having now deepened to +thirty-six fathoms, at four o'clock next morning we discovered land, +bearing N.W. by W., six leagues distant. We stood toward it till +half-past ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water, being at +this time a league from the land, which bore N.N.W. It was the S.E. +extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of considerable height; on +which account it was called _Point Upright_, and lies in the latitude +of 60 deg. 17', and in the longitude of 187 deg. 30'. More land was seen to +the westward of the point; and, at a clear interval, we saw another +elevated portion of land in the direction of W. by S.; and this +seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we met with an +incredible number of birds, all of the awk kind before described. + +We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that we made but +little progress; and the weather was not clear enough to enable us to +determine the extent of the land before us. We supposed it to be one +of the many islands laid down by Mr Staehlin, in his map of the New +Northern Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more of +them.[4] + +[Footnote 4: The opinion here given, we shall find, is afterwards +corrected; and the land in question proved to be a discovery unknown +to the Russians.--E.] + +At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore N.W. by N., +six leagues distant. About this time, a light breeze springing up at +N.N.W., we stood to the N.E. till four o'clock next morning, when the +wind veering to the eastward, we tacked, and stood to the N.W. Soon +after the wind came to S.E.; and we steered N.E. by N.; which course +we continued, with soundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till +next day at noon. At this time we were in the latitude of 60 deg. 58', and +in the longitude of 191 deg.. The wind now veering to N.E., I first made +a stretch of ten leagues to the N.W.; and then, seeing no land in that +direction, I stood back to the eastward about fifteen leagues, and +met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The soundings were from +twenty-two to nineteen fathoms. + +Variable, light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all the 2d; but +fixing in the S.E. quarter in the morning of the 3d, we resumed our +course to the northward. At noon, we were, by observation, in the +latitude of 62 deg. 34', our longitude was 192 deg., and our depth of water +sixteen fathoms. + +Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption +for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this +afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well +skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge +in other branches of science. The reader of this Journal will have +observed how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the +voyage; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, +I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications, on +various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, +as would have abundantly shewn that he was not unworthy of this +commendation.[5] Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to +the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island; +and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very +great regard, I named it _Anderson's Island_. The next day, I removed +Mr Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and +appointed Mr Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be +surgeon of the Discovery. + +[Footnote 5: Mr Anderson's Journal seems to have been discontinued for +about two months before his death; the last date in his MSS. being of +the 3d of June.--D. + +The Biographia Britannica informs us, that Mr Anderson left his papers +to Sir Joseph Banks; but that the Admiralty took possession of the +larger part of them, and, for what reason is not mentioned, retained +them. Such parts, however, it is said, as related solely to natural +history, were delivered by Captain King to the Baronet, who bears +testimony "to the excellence of Mr A.'s character, the utility of his +observations, and to the great probability, that, if he had survived, +he would have given to the world something which would have done him +credit." Much of this commendatory opinion might be inferred from +what has been published of Mr A.'s labours, which constitute no +inconsiderable portion, either in bulk or value, of Captain Cook's +communications.--E.] + +On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending from +N.N.E. to N.W. We stood on toward it till four o'clock, when, being +four or five miles from it, we tacked; and, soon after, the wind +falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom; +being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in the +latitude of 64 deg. 27', and in the longitude of 194 deg. 18'. At intervals, +we could see the coast extending from E. to N.W., and a pretty high +island, bearing W. by N. three leagues distant. + +The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent of America, +appeared low next the sea; but, inland, it swelled into hills, which +rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. It had a greenish +hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay +at anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, and set to +the west, till between ten and eleven o'clock. From that time till two +the next morning, the stream set to the eastward, and the water fell +three feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb; +from which I concluded, that, besides the ebb, there was a westerly +current. + +At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at S.W., we ran down, +and anchored between the island and the continent, in seven fathoms +water. Soon after I landed upon the island, accompanied by Mr King and +some others of the officers. I hoped to have had from it a view of +the coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in that +direction, that the prospect was not more extensive than from +the ship. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the +northward, at a low point, named _Point Rodney_, which bore from the +island N.W. 1/2 W., three or four leagues distant; but the high land, +which took a more northerly direction, was seen a great way farther. + +This island, which was named _Sledge Island_, and lies in the latitude +of 64 deg. 30', and in the longitude of 193 deg. 57', is about four leagues in +circuit. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large +loose stones, that are, in many places, covered with moss and other +vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different +sorts, and most of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree, +either upon this island or on the continent. On a small low spot, near +the beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild purslain, pease, +long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one +fox, a few plovers, and some other small birds; and we met with some +decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately +been on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently visit +it for some purpose or other, as there was a beaten path from the +one end to the other. We found, a little way from the shore where +we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the +island, it seemed to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make +use of to convey goods from place to place over the ice or snow. It +was ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had a kind of rail-work +on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was +admirable, and all the parts neatly put together; some with wooden +pins, but mostly with thongs or lashings of whalebone, which made me +think it was entirely the workmanship of the natives. + +At three o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded to the +north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. We had an opportunity +to observe the sun's meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get +altitudes, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude +by the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, +we advanced but slowly; and at eight in the evening, finding the ships +settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored in seven +fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. Sledge Island bore S., 51 deg. +E., ten leagues distant, and was seen over the south point of the main +land. + +Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been misty, +clearing up, we saw high land extending from N., 40 deg. E., to N., +30 deg. W., apparently disjoined from the coast, under which we were at +anchor, which seemed to trend away N.E. At the same time, an island +was seen bearing N., 81 deg. W., eight or nine leagues distant. It +appeared to have no great extent, and was named _King's Island_. We +rode here till eight o'clock next morning, when we weighed, and stood +to the N.W. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got sight +of the N.W. land, extending from N. by W. to N.W. by N., distant about +three leagues. We spent the night making short boards, the weather +being misty and rainy, with little wind; and, between four and five +of the morning of the 8th, we had again a sight of the N.W. land; and +soon after, on account of a calm, and a current driving us toward the +shore, we found it necessary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, about +two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme is an elevated +peaked hill, situated in latitude 65 deg. 36', and in longitude 192 deg. 18'. +A breeze at N.E. springing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and stood +to the S.E., in hopes of finding a passage between the coast on which +we had anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this N.W. land. But we +soon got into seven fathoms water, and discovered low land connecting +the two coasts, and the high land behind it. + +Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, I tacked, +and stood away for its N.W. part, and came to an anchor under it in +seventeen fathoms water. The weather at this time was very thick with +rain; but at four next morning it cleared up, so that we could see +the land about us. A high steep rock or island bore W. by S.; another +island to the N. of it; and much larger, bore W. by N.; the peaked +hill above mentioned S.E. by E.; and the point under it, S., 32 deg. E. +Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out towards the N.W., +the extreme point of which bore N.E. by E., about three miles +distant. Over and beyond it some high land was seen, supposed to be a +continuation of the continent. + +This point of land, which I named _Cape Prince of Wales_, is the more +remarkable, by being the western extremity of all America hitherto +known. It is situated in the latitude of 65 deg. 45', and in the longitude +of 191 deg. 45'. The observations by which both were determined, though +made in sight of it, were liable to some small error, on account of +the haziness of the weather. We thought we saw some people upon the +coast; and probably we were not mistaken, as some elevations, like +stages, and others like huts, were seen at the same place. We saw the +same things on the continent within Sledge Island, and on some other +parts of the coast. + +It was calm till eight o'clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at +north springing up, we weighed. But we had scarcely got our sails set, +when it began to blow and rain very hard, with misty weather. The wind +and current being in contrary directions, raised such a sea that it +frequently broke into the ship. We had a few minutes sunshine at noon; +and from the observation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned +latitude. + +Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little +effect, I bore up for the island we had seen to the westward, +proposing to come to an anchor under it till the gale should cease. +But on getting to this land, we found it composed of two small +islands, each not above three or four leagues in circuit, and +consequently they could afford us little shelter. Instead of +anchoring, therefore, we continued to stretch to the westward; and at +eight o'clock, land was seen in that direction, extending from N.N.W. +to W. by S., the nearest part six leagues distant. I stood on till +ten, and then made a board to the eastward, in order to spend the +night. + +At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the +west for the land we had seen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes +after seven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189 deg. 24', it +extended from S. 72 deg. W. to N. 41 deg. E. Between the S.W. extreme, and a +point which bore W., two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay, +in which we anchored at ten o'clock in the forenoon, about two miles +from the north shore, in ten fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. +The south part of the bay bore S. 58 deg. W., the north point N. 43 deg. E., +the bottom of the bay N. 60 deg. W., two or three leagues distant, and. +the two islands we had passed the preceding day, N. 72 deg. E., distant +fourteen leagues. + + +SECTION IX. + +_Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing +the Ships.--Interview with some of them.--Their +Weapons.--Persons.--Ornaments.--Clothing.--Winter and Summer +Habitations.--The Ships cross the Strait, to the Coast of +America.--Progress Northward.--Cape Mulgrave.--Appearance of Fields of +Ice.--Situation of Icy Cape.--The Sea blocked up with Ice.--Sea-horses +killed, and used as Provisions.--These Animals described.--Dimensions +of one of them.--Cape Lisburne.--Fruitless Attempt to get through the +Ice at a Distance from the Coast.--Observations on the Formation of +thin Ice.--Arrival on the Coast of Asia.--Cape North.--The Prosecution +of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year._ + +As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore a +village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have +thrown into confusion or fear. We could plainly see persons running +up the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations +I proposed to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats, +accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each +armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising +ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down +toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to +make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire +them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, for the +moment we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed them alone, +without any thing in my hand; and by signs and gestures prevailed on +them to stop, and to receive some trifling presents. In return for +these they gave me two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I +cannot say whether they or I made the first present; for it appeared +to me that they had brought down with them these things for this very +purpose, and that they would have given them to me, even though I had +made no return. + +They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their desire by +signs, that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. +On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back +several paces. In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward, +always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, +while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with +their arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three of my companions, +got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to those about us, soon +created a kind of confidence, so that they were not alarmed when a +few more of our people joined us, and, by degrees, a sort of traffic +between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and +other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows. +But nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with a +spear or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never once +quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid +theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then, +they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in +an instant, and, for their security, they desired us to sit down. + +The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of +them had barbs, and some had a round blunt point. What use these +may be applied to I cannot say, unless it be to kill small animals, +without damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the +American coast, and like those that were used by the Esquimaux. +The spears, or spontoons, were of iron or steel; and of European +or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to +ornament them with carving, and inlayings of brass, and of a white +metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, +had the spear slung over their right shoulder by a leathern strap. A +leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows; +and some of these quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of red +leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments. + +Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed that +they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what one +could expect to find amongst so northern a people. All the Americans +we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of +stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we +now were amongst, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were +stout and well-made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different +nation. We saw neither women nor children of either sex, nor any +aged, except one man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who +carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under +than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark across his +face, which I did not see in any others. All of them had their ears +bored, and some had glass beads hanging to them. These were the only +fixed ornaments we saw about them, for they wear none to the lips. +This is another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had +lately seen. + +Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair +of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins +of deer, dogs, seals, &c. and extremely well dressed, some with the +hair or fur on, but others without it. The caps were made to fit the +head very close; and besides these caps, which most of them wore, +we got from them some hoods, made of skins of dogs, that were large +enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be +black; but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off, +and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got +from us, knives and tobacco were what they valued most. + +We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter +habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which +is sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I +examined was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or +more high. The framing was composed of wood and the ribs of whales, +disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller +materials of the same sort. Over this framing is laid a covering of +strong coarse grass, and that again is covered with earth, so that, +on the outside, the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a +wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two +sides and one end. At the other end, the earth is raised sloping, to +walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof +over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, +in which I saw nothing but water. And at the end of each house was +a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms +communicated with the house, by a dark passage, and with the open air, +by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon; +but they cannot be said to be wholly under ground, for one end reached +to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was +built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, +composed of the large bones of large fish. + +The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a +point at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered +with the skins of sea-animals. I examined the inside of one. There was +a fire-place just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all +very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about +half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; for there +were several partitions made with skins. The bed and bedding were of +deer-skins, and most of them were dry and clean. + +About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet +high, such as we had observed on some parts of the American coast. +They were wholly composed of bones, and seemed intended for drying +their fish and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their +dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, +rather large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like +wool. They are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in winter. For +sledges they have, as I saw a good many laid up in one of the winter +huts. It is also not improbable, that dogs may constitute a part of +their food. Several lay dead that had been killed that morning. + +The canoes of these people are of the same sort with those of the +Northern Americans, some, both of the large and of the small ones, +being seen lying in a creek under the village. + +By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-animals, it appeared that +the sea supplied them with the greatest part of their subsistence. The +country appeared to be exceedingly barren, yielding neither tree nor +shrub, that we could see. At some distance westward, we observed a +ridge of mountains covered with snow that had lately fallen. + +At first, we supposed this land to be a part of the island of +Alaschka, laid down in Mr Staehlin's map before-mentioned. But from the +figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, +and from the longitude, we soon began to think that it was, more +probably, the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of +Asia, explored by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without +farther examination, I must have pronounced Mr Staehlin's map, and +his account of the new northern archipelago, to be either exceedingly +erroneous, even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment +which I had no right to pass upon a publication so respectably +vouched, without producing the clearest proofs.[1] + +[Footnote 1: If the account of Beering's voyage had been accurately +given, Captain Cook need not have hesitated about the situation +or nature of the place he now visited. Captain Billings afterwards +anchored in the same bay on his voyage to complete the discoveries of +Cook, as related in Mr Coxe's work. Still, however, our acquaintance +with this part of Asia is very imperfect. Captain Cook, it may be +proper to remark here, had the merit of ascertaining the vicinity of +the two continents, which had been but vaguely conjectured before his +time.--E.] + +After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we +returned to our ships, and soon after, the wind veering to the south, +we weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the N.E., +between the coast and the two islands. The next day, at noon, the +former extended from S. 80 deg. W. to N. 84 deg. W., the latter bore S. 40 deg. +W., and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36 deg. +E., with land extending from it as far as S. 75 deg. E. The latitude of +the ship was 66 deg. 5-1/4', the longitude 191 deg. 19', our depth of water +twenty-eight fathoms, and our position nearly in the middle of the +channel between the two coasts, each being seven leagues distant. + +From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American +coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and there being +little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth tailing, I +was obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy we +had left to prevent the ships driving into less. The nearest part of +the western land bore W., twelve leagues distant, the peaked hill +over Cape Prince of Wales, S. 16 deg. W., and the northernmost part of +the American continent in sight, E.S.E., the nearest part about four +leagues distant. After we had anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and +the water was found to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay +at anchor, which was from six to nine in the evening, we found little +or no current, nor could we perceive that the water either rose or +fell. + +A breeze of wind springing up at N., we weighed, and stood to the +westward, which course soon brought us into deep water, and, during +the 12th, we plied to the N., both coasts being in sight, but we kept +nearest to that of America. + +At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing up at S., I +steered N.E. by N., till four o'clock next morning, when, seeing no +land, we directed our course E. by N., and between nine and ten, land, +supposed to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended +from E. by S. to E. by N., and soon after we saw more land, bearing +N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms water, at two +in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we stood in again +for the land, which was seen soon after, extending from N. to S.E., +the nearest part three or four leagues distant. The coast here forms a +point, named _Point Mulgrave_, which lies in the latitude of 67 deg. 45', +and in the longitude of 194 deg. 51'. The land appeared very low next the +sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate height. The +whole was free from snow, and, to appearance, destitute of wood. I now +tacked, and bore away N.W. by W., but soon after, thick weather with +rain coming on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to the west. + +Next morning, at two o'clock, the wind veered to S.W. by S.; and blew +a strong gale, which abated at noon; and the sun shining out, we found +ourselves, by observation, in the latitude of 68 deg. 18'. I now steered +N.E., till six o'clock the next morning, when I steered two points +more easterly. In this run, we met with several sea-horses and +flights of birds, some like sand-larks, and others no bigger than +hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen, so that we judged ourselves +to be not far from land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not +expect to see any; and, as the wind blew strong, it was not prudent +to continue a course which was most likely to bring us to it. From the +noon of this day, to six o'clock in the morning of the following, I +steered E. by N., which course brought us into sixteen fathoms water. +I now steered N.E. by E., thinking, by this course, to deepen our +water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms, +which made me think it proper to haul close to the wind that now +blew at west. Toward noon, both sun and moon were seen clearly at +intervals, and we got some flying observations for the longitude, +which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70 deg. 33', gave 197 deg. 41'. +The time-keeper, for the same time, gave 198 deg., and the variation was +35 deg. 1' 22" E. We had, afterward, reason to believe, that the observed +longitude was within a very few miles of the truth. + +Some time before noon, we perceived a brightness in the northern +horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. +It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable we +should meet with ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air, and +gloominess of the weather, for two or three days past, seemed to +indicate some sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a +large field of ice, left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the +brightness of the horizon. At half-past two, we tacked, close to +the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the +latitude of 70 deg. 41', not being able to stand on any farther. For the +ice was quite impenetrable, and extended from W. by N. to E. by N. as +far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses, some in +the water, but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of hoisting out +the boats to kill some, but the wind freshening, I gave up the design, +and continued to ply to the southward, or rather to the westward, for +the wind came from that quarter. + +We gained nothing; for, on the 18th at noon, our latitude was 70 deg. 44', +and we were near five leagues farther to the eastward. We were, at +this time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a +wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. But, farther +north, it appeared much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged; and +here and there, we saw upon it pools of water. + +We now stood to the southward; and, after running six leagues, shoaled +the water to seven fathoms, but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At +this time, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we +saw land extending from S. to S.E. by E., about three or four miles +distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered +with ice, for which reason it obtained the name of _Icy Cape_. Its +latitude is 70 deg. 29', and its longitude 198 deg. 20'. The other extreme of +the land was lost in the horizon, so that there can be no doubt of its +being a continuation of the American continent. The Discovery being +about a mile astern, and to leeward, found less water than we did, +and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to prevent +separation. + +Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in shoal water, +upon a lee-shore, and the main body of the ice to windward, driving +down upon us. It was evident, that if we remained much longer between +it and the land, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen +to take the ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to +leeward; and the only direction that was open, was to the S.W. After +making a short board to the northward, I made the signal for the +Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved +rather favourable, so that we lay up S.W. and S.W. by W. + +At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to W., I +tacked to the northward, and, at noon, the latitude was 70 deg. 6', and +the longitude 195 deg. 42'. In this situation, we had a good deal of +drift-ice about us; and the main ice was about two leagues to the N. +At half-past one, we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact +as that which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, and +in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the +ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses; and, as we were in want of +fresh provisions, the boats from each ship were sent to get some. + +By seven o'clock in the evening, we had received, on board the +Resolution, nine of these animals, which, till now, we had supposed +to be sea-cows; so that we were not a little disappointed, especially +some of the seamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been +feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor would they have been +disappointed now, nor have known the difference, if we had not +happened to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, and +declared what animals these were, and that no one ever eat of them. +But, notwithstanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lasted; +and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt meat. + +The fat; at first, is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows +rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will keep much longer. +The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste; and +the heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when +melted, yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and +their hides, which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging. +The teeth or tusks of most of them were, at this time, very small; +even some of the largest and oldest of these animals had them not +exceeding six inches in length. From this we concluded, that they had +lately shed their old teeth. + +They lie, in herds of many hundreds, upon the ice, huddling one over +the other like swine, and roar or bray very loud, so that, in the +night or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the +ice before we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep, some +being always upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, +would wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually +communicated, the whole herd would be awake presently. But they were +seldom in a hurry to get away, till after they had once been fired at. +Then they would tumble one over the other, into the sea, in the utmost +confusion. And if we did not, at the first discharge, kill those we +fired at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They +did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal some authors +have described, not even when attacked. They are rather more so to +appearance than in reality. Vast numbers of them would follow, and +come close up to the boats. But the flash of a musket in the pan, +or even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them down in an +instant. The female will defend the young one to the very last, and +at the expense of her own life, whether in the water, or upon the ice. +Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she be dead; so that, if +you kill one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water, +holds the young one between her fore-fins. + +Mr Pennant, in his _Synopsis Quadr._ p. 835,[2] has given a very good +description of this animal under the name of _Arctic Walrus_, but I +have no where seen a good drawing of one. Why they should be called +sea-horses is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the +Russian name _Morse_, for they have not the least resemblance of a +horse. This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the +Gulf of St Laurence, and there called Sea-cow. It is certainly more +like a cow than a horse; but this likeness consists in nothing but the +snout. In short, it is an animal like a seal, but incomparably larger. +The dimensions and weight of one, which was none of the largest, were +as follows:-- + + Feet. Inches. + + Length from the snout to the tail 9 4 + Length of the neck, from the snout to the + shoulder-bone 2 6 + Height of the shoulder 5 0 + + Length of the fins { Fore 2 4 + { Hind 2 6 + + Breadth of the fins { Fore 1 2-1/2 + { Hind 2 0 + + Snout { Breadth 0 5-1/2 + { Depth 1 3 + + Circumference of the neck close to the ears 2 7 + Circumference of the body at the shoulder 7 10 + Circumference near the hind fins 5 6 + From the snout to the eyes 0 7 + + + lbs. + Weight of the carcase, without + the head, skin, or entrails 854 + Head 41-1/2 + Skin 205 + +[Footnote 2: Mr Pennant, since Captain Cook wrote this, has described +this animal in a work which he calls Arctic Zoology. We refer the +reader to N deg. 72. of that work.--D.] + +I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There was nothing +in the maws of those we killed. + +It is worth observing, that for some days before this date, we had +frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. They were of +two sorts, the one much larger than the other, the largest were of +a brown colour; and, of the small sort, either the duck or drake was +black and white, and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also. +Does not this indicate that there must be land to the north, where +these birds find shelter, in the proper season, to breed, and from +whence they were now returning to a warmer climate? + +By the time that we had got our sea-horses on board, we were, in a +manner, surrounded with the ice, and had no way left to clear it, but +by standing to the southward, which was done till three o'clock next +morning, with a gentle breeze westerly, and for the most part, thick, +foggy weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We +then tacked, and stood to the north till ten o'clock, when the wind +veering to the northward, we directed our course to the S.W. and W. At +two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of +which we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses, +for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near +midnight, when we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of +the sea upon the main ice. + +The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now hauled to the +southward; and, at ten o'clock the next morning, the fog clearing +away, we saw the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to +E. by S., and at noon, from S.W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five +leagues distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 69 deg. 32', +and in the longitude of 195 deg. 48'; and as the main ice was at no great +distance from us, it is evident that it now covered a part of the sea, +which, but a few days before, had been clear, and that it extended +farther to the S., than where we first fell in with it. It must not be +understood, that I supposed any part of this ice which we had seen +to be fixed; on the contrary, I am well assured, that the whole was a +moveable mass. + +Having but little wind in the afternoon, I sent the master in a boat, +to try if there was any current, but he found none. I continued to +steer in for the American land, until eight o'clock, in order to get a +nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour; but seeing nothing like +one, I stood again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this +time, the coast, extended from S.W. to E., the nearest part four or +five leagues distant. The southern extreme seemed to form a point, +which was named _Cape Lisburne_. It lies in the latitude of 69 deg. 5', +and in the longitude of 194 deg. 42', and appeared to be pretty high land, +even down to the sea. But there may be low land under it, which we +might not see, being not less than ten leagues distant from it. Every +where else, as we advanced northward, we had found a low coast, from +which the land rises to a middle height. The coast now before us was +without snow, except in one or two places, and had a greenish hue. But +we could not perceive any wood upon it. + +On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather mostly foggy, +with some intervals of sunshine. At eight in the evening it fell calm, +which continued till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sea +against the ice, and had several loose pieces about us. A light breeze +now sprung up at N.E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to +the southward to clear the ice. At eight o'clock next morning, the fog +dispersed, and I hauled to the westward. For, finding that I could not +get to the north near the coast, on account of the ice, I resolved to +try what could be done at a distance from it; and as the wind seemed +to be settled at north, I thought it a good opportunity. + +As we advanced to the west, the water deepened gradually to +twenty-eight fathoms, which was the most we had. With the northerly +wind the air was raw, sharp, and cold, and we had fogs, sunshine, +showers of snow and sleet, by turns. At ten in the morning of the +26th, we fell in with the ice. At noon, it extended from N.W. to E. +by N., and appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, by +observation, in the latitude 69 deg. 36', and in the longitude of 184 deg.; so +that it now appeared we had no better prospect of getting to the north +here, than nearer the shore. + +I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, when +we were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high, and very +close in the N.W. and N.E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice +about the edge of the main field. At this time we had baffling light +winds, but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale, +with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to the +eastward, this being the only direction in which the sea was clear of +ice. + +At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood to the W., +and, at seven in the evening, we were close in with the edge of the +ice, which lay E.N.E., and W.S.W., as far each way as the eye could +reach. Having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine the +state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces, of various +extent, and so close together, that I could hardly enter the outer +edge with a boat; and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it, +as if it had been so many rocks. I took particular notice, that it was +all pure transparent ice, except the upper surface, which was a little +porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to +have been all formed at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or +rather impossibility, of such huge masses floating out of rivers, in +which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions of +the land were found incorporated, or fixed in it, which must have +unavoidably been the case, had it been formed in rivers, either great +or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field, +were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five; and I +judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under +the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable, that +this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone. +I should suppose it rather to have been the production of a great many +winters. Nor was it less improbable, according to my judgment, that +the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of +what now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted upon +it the full influence of his rays. Indeed I am of opinion, that the +sun contributes very little toward reducing these great masses. For +although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it +seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and often is +not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the +waves raised by the wind, that brings down the bulk of these enormous +masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and +washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. +This was evident, from our observing, that the upper surface of many +pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part +remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above +water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the +depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the +ships might have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth, +I would not have believed that there was a sufficient weight of ice +above the surface to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it +may happen, that more ice is destroyed in one stormy season, than is +formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation is prevented. +But that there is always a remaining store, every one who has been +upon the spot will conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers +will dispute.[3] + +[Footnote 3: These observations of Captain Cook, in addition to some +remarks which were formerly given on the subject, seem conclusive +against the supposition of such large masses of ice being the product +of rivers, as has not unfrequently been maintained. They may, however, +have proceeded from land in another way, being occasioned by the +consolidation of snow into such masses as were of sufficient weight +to separate from the declivities where they had been formed. This +undoubtedly may sometimes happen; but the explanation of their origin +formerly offered, seems much more entitled to consideration, as a +generally operating cause. The last remark which Captain Cook makes, +appears to have been levelled at some would-be-wise heads, who had +hazarded reflections about the possibility of some time or other +finding an open sea in high latitudes. But, however illiberally +stated, it is in all probability just, though for a reason unknown to +Cook. The chemical reader will perceive we allude to the circumstance +of the absorption of heat that takes places during the liquefaction +of ice, in consequence of which the temperature of the surrounding +atmosphere is reduced so much, as to prevent any more of the ice being +dissolved. A contrary operation, as is now well known, takes place +during the congelation of water, and heat is evolved. Thus then the +cold of winter is moderated. And so, on the whole, the temperature +is kept more uniform, than, without such adjustment, would be the +case.--E.] + +A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats, +hastened me aboard, rather sooner than I could have wished, with one +sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to +bring them with us. The number of these animals, on all the ice that +we had seen, is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and +on amongst the drift ice; and at nine o'clock the next morning, +the fog having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for +sea-horses. For, by this time, our people began to relish them, and +those we had procured before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude +was 69 deg. 17', our longitude 183 deg., the variation by the morning +azimuths, 25 deg. 56' E., and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. At +two o'clock, having got on board as much marine beef as was thought +necessary, and the wind freshening at S.S.E., we took on board the +boats, and stretched to the S.W. But not being able to weather the ice +upon this tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the east, +till eight o'clock, then resumed our course to the S.W., and before +midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of the ice. Soon +after, the wind shifted to the N.W., blowing a stiff gale, and we +stretched to the S.W., close hauled. + +In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the northward, and +not long after, land bearing S.W. by W. Presently after this, more +land shewed itself, bearing W. It shewed itself in two hills like +islands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we approached +the land, the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at noon, +when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms, being three miles from the +coast, which extended from S., 30 deg. E., to N., 60 deg. W. This last extreme +terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above mentioned. + +The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain; but +soon after it cleared, especially to the southward, westward, and +northward. This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast, +which, in every respect, is like the opposite one of America; that +is, low land next the sea, with elevated land farther back. It was +perfectly destitute of wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered +with a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. In the low +ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake, +extending to the S.E., farther than we could see. As we stood off, the +westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the bluff +point, in the direction of N.W. It had the appearance of being an +island; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did +not see it. And if so, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between +them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named _Cape North_. +Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68 deg. 56', and in the +longitude of 180 deg. 51'. The coast beyond it must take a very westerly +direction; for we could see no land to the northward of it, though the +horizon was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more of +the coast to the westward, we tacked again at two o'clock in the +afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. But finding we could +not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on, with much snow, and +being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I +had formed of plying to the westward, and stood off shore again. + +The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is +expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent +with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a passage into the +Atlantic this year, in any direction, so little was the prospect of +succeeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out some +place where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the +object uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should spend the winter, so +as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the +same time, be in a condition to return to the north, in farther search +of a passage, the ensuing summer. + + +SECTION X. + +_Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia.--Views of the +Country.--Burner's Island.--Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern Limit +of Beering's Voyage.--Pass the East Cape of Asia.--Description and +Situation of it.--Observations on Muller.--The Tschutski.--Bay +of Saint Laurence.--Two other Bays, and Habitations of the +Natives.--Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi.--Beering's Position of this +Coast accurate.--Island of Saint Laurence.--Pass to the +American Coast.--Cape Darby.--Bald Head.--Cape Denbigh, on a +Peninsula.--Besborough Island.--Wood and Water procured.--Visits +from the Natives.--Their Persons and Habitations.--Produce of the +Country.--Marks that the Peninsula had formerly been surrounded by +the Sea.--Lieutenant King's Report.--Norton Sound.--Lunar Observations +there.--Staehlin's Map proved to be erroneous,--Plan of future +Operations._ + +After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms water, I +bore up to the eastward, along the coast, which, by this time; it was +pretty certain, could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind +blew fresh, with a very heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was +necessary to proceed with great caution. I therefore brought-to for a +few hours in the night. + +At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered such a course as +I thought would bring us in with the land, being in a great measure +guided by the lead. For the weather was as thick as ever, and it +snowed incessantly. At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing S.W., +four miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water to +seven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or spit, +bore S.S.W., two or three miles distant; to the E. of which there +appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into some water that we saw +over the point. Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here +with the sea. + +At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably +good view of the coast, which extended from S.E. to N.W. by W. Some +parts appeared higher than others; but in general it was very low, +with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered with +snow, which had lately fallen quite down to the sea. I continued to +range along the coast at two leagues distance, till ten at night, +when we hauled off; but we resumed our course next morning, soon after +day-break, when we got sight of the coast again, extending from W. +to S.E. by S. At eight, the eastern part bore S., and proved to be an +island, which at noon bore S.W. 1/2 S., four or five miles distant. It +is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a +steep, rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the main, in +the latitude of 67 deg. 45', and distinguished in the chart by the name of +_Burney's Island_. + +The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which are of +a considerable height. The land was covered with snow, except a few +spots upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than +farther westward. For the two preceding days, the mean height of the +mercury in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing +point, and often below it; so that the water in the vessels upon the +deck was frequently covered with a sheet of ice. + +I continued to steer S.S.E., nearly in the direction of the coast, +till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing S., 50 deg. E., +which we presently found to be a continuation of the coast, and hauled +up for it. Being abreast of the eastern land at ten at night, and in +doubts of weathering it, we tacked, and made a board to the westward, +till past one the next morning, when we stood again to the east, and +found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance from the +coast, the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying continually +from N. to N.E. At half an hour past eight, the eastern extreme above +mentioned bore S. by E., six or seven miles distant. At the same time, +a head-land appeared in sight, bearing E. by S., 1/2 S.; and, soon +after, we could trace the whole coast lying between them, and a small +island at some distance from it. + +The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a low +shore, without the least appearance of a harbour. At some distance +from the sea, the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills. +The highest of these were covered with snow, and, in other respects, +the whole country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, two points of +land, at some distance beyond the eastern head, opened off it, in the +direction of S., 37 deg. E. I was now well assured, of what I had believed +before, that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the N.E. coast +of Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this +head, which Muller says is called _Serdze Kamen_, on account of a +rock upon it, shaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr Muller's +knowledge of the geography of these parts is very imperfect. There are +many elevated rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of +them may have the shape or a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory, +with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and lies in the latitude of +67 deg. 3', and in the longitude of 188 deg. 11'. To the eastward of it, the +coast is high and bold; but to the westward it is low, and trends +N.N.W., and N.W. by W., which is nearly its direction all the way +to Cape North. The soundings are every where the same at the same +distance from the shore, which is also the case on the opposite +shore of America. The greatest depth we found in ranging along it +was twenty-three fathoms. And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the +soundings are no bad guide in sailing along either of these shores. + +At eight o'clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced land +to the S.E., bore S., 25 deg. E., and from this point of view had the +appearance of being an island. But the thick snow showers, which +succeeded one another pretty, fast, and settled upon the land, hid +great part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the +sun, whose face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the +intervals between the showers, and, in some measure, freed the coast +from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be +connected. The wind still continued at north, the air was cold, and +the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 35 deg., and was sometimes +as low as 30 deg.. At noon the observed latitude was 66 deg. 37', Cape Serdze +Kamen bore N., 52 deg. W., thirteen leagues distant; the southernmost +point of land in sight S., 41 deg. E., the nearest part of the coast two +leagues distant, and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms. + +We had now fair weather and sunshine, and as we ranged along +the coast, at the distance of four miles, we saw several of the +inhabitants, and some of their habitations, which looked like little +hillocks of earth. In the evening we passed the _Eastern Cape_, or the +point above mentioned, from which the coast changes its direction, and +trends S.W. It is the same point of land which we had passed on the +11th of August. They who believed implicitly in Mr Staehlin's map, then +thought it the east point of his island Alaschka; but we had, by +this time, satisfied ourselves, that it is no other than the eastern +promontory of Asia, and probably the proper _Tschukotskoi Noss_, +though the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to +the S.W. + +Though Mr Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, places the +Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75 deg. of latitude, and extends it somewhat +to the eastward of this cape, it appears to me, that he had no +good authority for so doing. Indeed, his own accounts, or rather +Deshneff's,[1] of the distance between the Noss, and the river Anadir, +cannot be reconciled with this very northerly position. But as I hope +to visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion of this point +till then. In the mean time, I must conclude, as Beering did before +me, that this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of +considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to +appearance, narrow neck of land. It shews a steep rocky clift next the +sea, and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated +in the latitude of 66 deg. 6', and in the longitude of 190 deg. 22', and is +distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, thirteen +leagues, in the direction of N., 53 deg. W. The land about this promontory +is composed of hills and vallies. The former terminate at the sea in +steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills seemed to +be naked rocks; but the vallies had a greenish hue, but destitute of +tree or shrub.[2] + +[Footnote 1: Avec le vent le plus favorable, on peut aller par mer de +cette pointe (des Tschukotschis), jusqu' a l'Anadir en trois fois +24 heures; et par terre le chemin ne peut guere etre plus +long.--_Muller_, p. 13.--D.] + +[Footnote 2: Deshnef's voyage in 1648, is considered the only one +previous to this of Cook, in which the north-eastern extremity of Asia +was doubled. Some account of it is given in Coxe's work. Others have +pretended to this achievement, but there is not evidence to warrant +belief of the fact. Beering, indeed, in 1728, got as far north as +67 deg. 18'; but as he immediately returned, and made no progress on the +Asiatic coast, he is not entitled to this merit, although the extent +of his discovery, as to the separation of the two continents, has +procured him the honour of giving a name to the Strait which divides +them.--E.] + +After passing the cape, I steered S.W. 1/2 W., for the northern point +of St Laurence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last +month. We reached it by eight o'clock next morning, and saw some of +the inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before, as well as +several others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, however, +attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little extraordinary, +as the weather was favourable enough; and those whom we had lately +visited had no reason, that I know of, to dislike our company. These +people must be the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr Muller +wrote, the Russians had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole +of their conduct with us, it appears that they have not, as yet, +brought them under subjection; though it is obvious that they must +have a trade with the Russians, either directly, or by means of some +neighbouring nation, as we cannot otherwise account for their being in +possession of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice. + +This bay of St Laurence[3] is, at least, five leagues broad at the +entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing towards the bottom, +where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds, +provided there be a sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not +wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour +in those parts, to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one +where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. +From the south point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65 deg. +30', the coast trends W. by S., for about nine leagues, and there +forms a deep bay, or river, or else the land there is so low that we +could not see it. + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it +on St Laurence's day, August 10. It is remarkable, that Beering sailed +past this very place on the 10th of August 1728; on which account, the +neighbouring island was named by him after the same Saint.--D. + +But Dr Douglas seems to err in this observation. At least, according +to Mr Coxe's account, it would appear, that it was the island of St +Laurence, which we shall immediately find Captain Cook afterwards fell +in with, and not the bay so named, which Beering passed on the 10th +August. This, however, is a trivial correction, if even the imperfect +relation we possess of Beering's progress could prove it to be +one.--E.] + +At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what +was first taken for a rock; but it proved to be a dead whale, which +some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing ashore. +They seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen +by us. This was unnecessary, for we pursued our course, without taking +any notice of them. + +At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the N.W., in order to get a +nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; but the wind, soon +after, veering to that direction, I gave up the design; and steered to +the southward along the coast, past two bays, each about two leagues +deep. The northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by +being rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is an island +lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a +sufficient depth for ships in either of these bays, as we always met +with shoal water, when we edged in for the shore. The country here is +exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground, next +the sea, were the dwellings of the natives; and near all of them were +erected stages of bones, such as before described. These may be seen +at a great distance, on account of their whiteness. + +At noon the latitude was 64 deg. 31', and the longitude 188 deg. 45'; the +southernmost point of the main in sight bore S., 48 deg. W., and the +nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time, the +wind had veered again to the N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather +was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the +coast, as I found that it look a westerly direction toward the Gulf +of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the +southward, in order to get a sight of the island of St Laurence, +discovered by Beering, which accordingly shewed itself, and at eight +o'clock in the evening, it bore S., 20 deg. E., by estimation, eleven +leagues distant. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main +land bore S., 83 deg. W., distant twelve leagues. I take this to be +the point which Beering calls the east point of Suchotski, or _Cape +Tschukotskoi_; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it +was from this part of the coast that the natives came off to him, who +called themselves of the nation of Tschutski. I make its latitude to +be 64 deg. 13', and its longitude 186 deg. 36'. + +In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he has +delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude +of the points better than could be expected from the methods he had +to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr Muller's account of +the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr Campbell's +account of it in his edition of Harris's collection, and a map thereto +annexed, which is both more circumstantial and accurate than that of +Mr Muller. + +The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the +more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr Staehlin's map of the New Northern +Archipelago with my observations; and I had no way to account for the +great difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some part of +what he calls the island of Alaschka for the American continent, and +had missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there +would still have been a considerable difference. It was with me a +matter of some consequence, to clear up this point the present season, +that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as these +northern isles are represented by him as abounding with wood, I was +in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article, +which we now began to be in great want of on board. + +With these views, I steered over for the American coast; and, at five +in the afternoon the next day, saw land bearing S. 1/4 E., which +we took to be Anderson's Island, or some other land near it, and +therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the +morning, we got sight of the American coast near Sledge Island; and +at six, the same evening, this island bore N., 6 deg. E., ten leagues +distant; and the easternmost land in sight N., 49 deg. E. If any part of +what I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the island +of Alaschka, it was that now before us; and in that case, I must have +missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west, +instead of the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not, +therefore, at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these doubts. + +At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in with the land, +Sledge Island bearing N. 85 deg. W., eight or nine leagues distant; +and the eastern part of the coast N. 70 deg. E., with high land in the +direction of E. by N., seemingly at a great distance beyond the +point. At this time we saw a light ashore, and two canoes, filled with +people, coming off toward us. I brought-to, that they might have time +to come up. But it was to no purpose; for, resisting all the signs of +friendship we could exhibit, they kept at the distance of a quarter of +a mile; so that we left them, and pursued our course along the coast. + +At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast, +we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and +then resumed our course along the coast, which we found to trend E., +and E. 1/2 S. At seven in the evening, we were abreast of a point, +lying in the latitude of 64 deg. 21', and in the longitude of 197 deg., beyond +which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight, this +point, which obtained the name of _Cape Darby_, bore S. 62 deg. W.; the +northernmost land in sight, N. 32 deg. E., and the nearest shore three +miles distant. In this situation we anchored in thirteen fathoms +water, over a muddy bottom. + +Next morning, at day-break, we weighed, and sailed along the coast. +Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at that time seen, the +one bearing S. 70 deg. E., and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves +upon a coast covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which of late +we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we +raised land in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N., which proved to be a +continuation of the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the +islands, seemingly at a good distance beyond them. This was thought +to be the continent, and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it +was already doubtful, whether we should find a passage between them; +for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced further to the north. +In this situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships, and +I ordered the Discovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, +between the coast on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our +starboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon, when, having +passed the island, we had not more than three fathoms and a half of +water, and the Resolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the +bottom. More water was not to be found in any part of the channel, +for, with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side. + +I therefore thought it high time to return, especially as the wind was +in such a quarter that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was +the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the +ships in danger of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west +shore, which is distinguished by the name of _Bald Head_, bore N. by +W., one league distant. The coast beyond it extended as far as N.E. by +N., where it seemed to end in a point, behind which the coast of the +high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself, and some thought +they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the +shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw +a number of huts or habitations of the natives. + +Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break the next morning +we had got into six fathoms water. At nine o'clock, being about a +league from the west shore, I took two boats, and landed, attended by +Mr King, to seek wood and water. We landed where the coast projects +out into a bluff head, composed of perpendicular _strata_ of a rock of +a dark-blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the +beach a narrow border of land, now covered with long grass, and where +we met with some _angelica_. Beyond this, the ground rises abruptly. +At the top of this elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a +variety of berries; and further on, the country was level, and thinly +covered with small spruce-trees, and birch and willows no bigger than +broom-stuff. We observed tracks of deer and foxes on the beach; on +which also lay a great quantity of drift-wood, and there was no want +of fresh water. I returned on board, with an intention to bring the +ships to an anchor here; but the wind then veering to N.E., which blew +rather on this shore, I stretched over to the opposite one, in the +expectation of finding wood there also, and anchored at eight o'clock +in the evening, under the south end of the northernmost island, so +we then supposed it to be; but, next morning, we found it to be a +peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side +of which the coast forms a bay. We plied into the southernmost, and +about noon anchored in five fathoms water, over a bottom of mud; the +point of the peninsula, which obtained the name of _Cape Denbigh_, +bearing N. 68 deg. W., three miles distant. + +Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man came off in a +small canoe. I gave him a knife, and a few beads, with which he seemed +well pleased. Having made signs to him to bring us something to eat, +he immediately left us, and paddled toward the shore. But meeting +another man coming off, who happened to have two dried salmon, he got +them from him; and on returning to the ship, would give them to nobody +but me. Some of our people thought that he asked for me under the name +of _Capitane_; but in this they were probably mistaken. He knew who +had given him the knife and beads, but I do not see how he could know +that I was the captain. Others of the natives soon after came off, and +exchanged a few dry fish, for such trifles as they could get, or we +had to give them. They were most desirous of knives, and they had no +dislike to tobacco. + +After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, to see if +wood and water were there to be got, or rather water; for the whole +beach round the bay seemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the same +time, a boat was sent from each ship, to sound round the bay; and, at +three in the afternoon, the wind freshening at N.E., we weighed, in +order to work farther in. But it was soon found to be impossible, +on account of the shoals, which extended quite round the bay, to the +distance of two or three miles from the shore, as the officers, who +had been sent to sound, reported. We, therefore, kept standing off +and on with the ships, waiting for Mr Gore, who returned about eight +o'clock, with the launch laden with wood. + +He reported, that there was but little fresh water; and that wood +was difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some +distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the +other shore; and, at eight o'clock the next morning, sent all the +boats, and a party of men with an officer, to get wood from the place +where I had landed two days before. We continued for a while to +stand on and off with the ships; but, at length, came to an anchor in +one-fourth less than five fathoms, half a league from the coast, the +south point of which bore S. 26 deg. W.; and Bald Head, N. 60 deg. E., +nine leagues distant. Cape Denbigh bore S. 72 deg. E., twenty-six miles +distant; and the island under the east shore, to the southward of +Cape Denbigh, named _Besborough Island_, S. 52 deg. E., fifteen leagues +distant. + +As this was a very open road, and consequently not a safe station, +I resolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require some +time; but only to supply the ships with wood, and then to go in search +of a more convenient place for the other article. We took off the +drift-wood that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along +shore, the boats could sail both ways, which enabled us to make great +dispatch. + +In the afternoon, I went ashore, and walked a little into the country, +which, where there was no wood, was covered with heath and other +plants, some of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries +were ripe, the hurtle-berries too much so, and hardly a single plant +was in flower. The underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders, +rendered it very troublesome walking amongst the trees, which were all +spruce, and none of them above six or eight inches in diameter. But +we found some lying upon the beach more than twice this size. All the +drift-wood in these northern parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any +other sort. + +Next day, a family of the natives came near to the place where we were +taking off wood. I know not how many there were at first; but I saw +only the husband, the wife, and their child; and a fourth person who +bore the human shape, and that was all; for he was the most deformed +cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind; +and neither he nor his wife were such good-looking people as we had +sometimes seen amongst the natives of this coast. The under-lips +of both were bored; and they had in their possession some such +glass-beads as I had met with before amongst their neighbours. But +iron was their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made out +of an old iron hoop, I got from them near four hundred pounds weight +of fish, which they had caught on this or the preceding day. Some were +trout, and the rest were, in size and taste, somewhat between a mullet +and a herring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads; on which +the mother burst into tears, then the father, then the cripple, and +at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself. But this music +continued not long.[4] Before night, we had got the ships, amply +supplied with wood; and had carried on board about twelve tons of +water to each. + +[Footnote 4: Captain King has communicated the following account of +an interview with the same family: "On the 12th, while I attended the +wooding party, a canoe, full of natives, approached us; and, beckoning +them to land, an elderly man and woman came on shore. I gave the woman +a small knife, making her understand, that I would give, her a much +larger one for some fish. She made signs to me to follow her. I had +proceeded with them about a mile, when the man, in crossing a stony +beach, fell down, and cut his foot very much. This made me stop; upon +which the woman pointed to the man's eyes, which, I observed, were +covered with a thick, white film. He afterward kept close to his wife, +who apprised him of the obstacles in his way. The woman had a little +child on her back, covered with the hood of her jacket; and which I +took for a bundle till I heard it cry. At about two miles distant we +came to their open skin boat, which was turned on its side, the convex +part towards the wind, and served for their house. I was now made to +perform a singular operation on the man's eyes. First, I was directed +to hold my breath; afterwards, to breathe on the diseased eyes; and, +next, to spit on them. The woman then took both my hands, and pressing +them to his stomach, held them there for some time, while she related +some calamitous history of her family; pointing sometimes to her +husband, sometimes to a frightful cripple belonging to the family, and +sometimes to her child. I purchased all the fish they had, consisting +of very fine salmon, salmon-trout, and mullet; which were delivered +most faithfully to the man I sent for them. The man was about five +feet two inches high, and well made; his colour of a light copper; his +hair black and short, and with little beard. He had two holes in his +under-lip, but no ornaments in them. The woman was short and squat, +with a plump round face; wore a deer-skin jacket, with a large hood, +and had on wide boots. The teeth of both were black, and seemed as if +they had been filed down level with the gums. The woman was punctured +from the lip to the chin."--D.] + +On the 14th, a party of men were sent on shore to cut brooms, which +we were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer. +Toward noon, every body was taken on board; for the wind freshening, +had raised such a surf on the beach, that the boats could not continue +to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being still entertained, +whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island or the +American continent; and the shallowness of the water putting it out +of our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King, +with two boats under his command, to make such searches as might leave +no room for a variety of opinions on the subject.[5] Next day, the +ships removed over to the bay, which is on the S.E. side of Cape +Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the +natives came off in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon +for such trifles as our people had to give them. + +[Footnote 5: Captain King has been so good as to communicate his +instructions on this occasion, and the particulars of the fatigue he +underwent, in carrying them into execution: + +"You are to proceed to the northward as far as the extreme point we +saw on Wednesday last, or a little further, if you think it necessary; +land there, and endeavour, from the heights, to discover whether the +land you are then upon, supposed to be the island of Alaschka, is +really an island, or joins to the land on the east, supposed to be the +continent of America. If the former, you are to satisfy yourself with +the depth of water in the channel between them, and which way the +flood-tide comes. But if you find the two lands connected, lose no +time in sounding; but make the best of your way back to the ship, +which you will find at anchor near the point of land we anchored under +on Friday last. If you perceive any likelihood of a change of weather +for the worse, you are, in that case, to return to the ship, although +you have not performed the service you are sent upon; and, at any +rate, you are not to remain longer upon it than four or five days; +but the sooner it is done the better. If any unforeseen or unavoidable +accident should force the ships off the coast, so that they cannot +return at a reasonable time, the rendezvous is at the harbour of +Samganoodha; that is, the place where we last completed our water. + + "JAMES COOK." + +"_To Lieutenant King_." + +"Our cutter being hoisted out, and the signal made for the +Discovery's, at eight o'clock at night on the 14th, we set out. It was +a little unlucky that the boats' crews had been much fatigued during +the whole day in bringing things from the shore. They pulled stoutly, +without rest or intermission, toward the land, till one o'clock in the +morning of the 15th. I wanted much to have gone close to it, to +have had the advantage of the wind, which had, very regularly in the +evening, blown from the land, and in the day-time down the Sound, from +the N.N.E., and was contrary to our course; but the men were at this +time too much fatigued to press them farther. We, therefore, set our +sails, and stood across the bay, which the coast forms to the west of +Baldhead, and steered for it. But, as I expected, by three o'clock, +the wind headed us; and, as it was in vain to endeavour to fetch +Baldhead with our sails, we again took to the oars. The Discovery's +boat, (being a heavy king's-built cutter, while ours was one from +Deal,) had, in the night-time, detained us very much, and now we soon +pulled out of sight of her; nor would I wait, being in great hopes to +reach the extreme point that was in sight time enough to ascend the +heights before dark, as the weather was at this time remarkably clear +and fine, and we could see to a great distance. By two o'clock we had +got within two miles of Baldhead, under the lee of the high land, and +in smooth water; but, at the moment our object was nearly attained, +all the men but two were so overcome with fatigue and sleep, that my +utmost endeavours to make them put on were ineffectual. They at length +dropped their oars, quite exhausted, and fell asleep in the bottom of +the boat. Indeed, considering that they had set out fatigued, and had +now been sixteen hours out of the eighteen since they left the ship, +pulling in a poppling sea, it was no wonder that their strength and +spirits should be worn out for want of sleep and refreshments. The two +gentlemen who were with me and myself, were now obliged to lay hold of +the oars; and, by a little after three, we landed between the Baldhead +and a projecting point to the eastward."--D.] + +At day-break, on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a +visit. They approached the ship with some caution; and evidently +came with no other view than to gratify their curiosity. They drew up +abreast of each other, under our stern, and gave us a song; while one +of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand +antic motions with his hands and body. There was, however, nothing +savage either in the song or in the gestures that accompanied it. None +of us could perceive any difference between these people, either as to +their size or features, and those whom we had met with on every other +part of the coast, King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which +consisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same fashion; +and they observed the custom of boring their under-lips, and fixing +ornaments to them. + +The dwellings of these people were seated close to the beach. They +consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side-walls, composed of +logs, and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with +logs; the entrance is at one end; the fire-place just within it, and a +small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke. + +After breakfast, a party of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms +and spruce. At the same time, half the remainder of the people in +each ship had leave to go and pick berries. These returned on board at +noon, when the other half went on the same errand. The berries to be +got here were wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries, +and heath-berries. I also went ashore myself, and walked over part +of the peninsula. In several places there was very good grass; and +I hardly saw a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The +low land which connects this peninsula with the continent is full of +narrow creeks; and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were +already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustards; but +so shy, that it was not possible to get within musket-shot of them. We +also met with some snipes, and on the high ground were partridges of +two sorts. Where there was any wood, musquitoes were in plenty. Some +of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met with a few of +the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility. + +It appeared to me, that this peninsula must have been an island in +remote times; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the +isthmus. And even now, it appeared to be kept out by a bank of +sand, stones, and wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank, it was +evident, that the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was +easy to trace its gradual formation. + +About seven, in the evening, Mr King returned from his expedition; and +reported, that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues +farther than the ships had been able to go; that he then landed on the +west side; that, from the heights, he could see the two coasts join, +and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which +were banks of sand or mud; and every where shoal water. The land, too, +was low and swampy for some distance to the northward; then it swelled +into hills; and the complete junction of those, on each side of the +inlet, was easily traced. + +From the elevated spot on which Mr King surveyed the Sound, he could +distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running through them, +well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate +height. One of these rivers to the N.W. appeared to be considerable; +and from its direction, he was inclined to think, that it emptied +itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who +penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger the +farther they advanced.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Here Mr Arrowsmith's map is to be preferred, as +accurately following the description Captain King has given. Several +names are omitted by Mr Coxe, and his delineation of the coast is +rather unsatisfactory.--E.] + +In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton,[7] Speaker of the House of Commons, +and Mr King's nearest relation, I named this inlet _Norton Sound_. It +extends to the northward as far as the latitude of 64 deg. 55'. The bay, +in which we were now at anchor, lies on the S.E. side of it; and is +called by the natives _Chacktoole_. It is but an indifferent station, +being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a +harbour in all this Sound. But we were so fortunate as to have the +wind from the N. and N.E. all the time, with remarkable fine weather. +This gave us an opportunity to make no less than seventy-seven sets of +lunar observations between the 6th and 7th inclusive. The mean result +of these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side +of the Sound, to be + + 197 deg. 13' + Latitude 64 31 + Variation of the compass 25 45 east. + Dip of the needle 76 25 + +[Footnote 7: Afterwards Lord Grantley.] + +Of the tides, it was observed, that the night-flood rose about two or +three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable. + +Having now fully satisfied myself, that Mr Staehlin's map must be +erroneous; and having restored the American continent to that space +which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was +high time to think of leaving these northern regions, add to retire to +some place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for +my people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the +harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely +to furnish either the one or the other for so large a number of men. +I had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time. +The first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike +I had to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would have been +the necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts. +No place was so conveniently within our reach, where we could +expect to have our wants relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them, +therefore, I determined to proceed. But, before this could be carried +into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With this view I +resolved to search the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding +along it to the southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey +of this part of it with that lying immediately to the north of Cape +Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there my plan was then +to proceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon as our place of +rendezvous, in case of separation. + + +SECTION XI. + +_Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound.--Stuart's Island.--Cape +Stephens.--Point Shallow-Water.--Shoals on the American +Coast.--Clerke's Island.--Gore's Island.--Pinnacle Island.--Arrival at +Oonalashka.--Intercourse with the Natives and Russian Traders.--Charts +of the Russian Discoveries, communicated by Mr Ismyloff.--Their +Errors pointed out.--Situation of the Islands visited by the +Russians.--Account of their Settlement at Oonalashka.--Of the Natives +of the Island.--Their Persons.--Dress.--Ornaments.--Food.--Houses +and domestic Utensils.--Manufactures.--Manner of producing +Fire.--Canoes.--Fishing and Hunting Implements.--Fishes, and Sea +Animals.--Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.--Land Animals and +Vegetables.--Manner of burying the Dead.--Resemblance of the +Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and +Esquimaux.--Tides.--Observations for determining the Longitude of +Oonalashka._ + +Having weighed, on the 17th in the morning, with a light breeze +at east, we steered to the southward, and attempted to pass within +Besborough Island; but though it lies six or seven miles from the +continent, were prevented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but +little wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and +the night was spent under an easy sail. + +We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along the coast. +At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the +latitude was 63 deg. 37'. Besborough, Island now bore N., 42 deg. E.; the +southernmost land in sight, which proved also to be an island, S., 66 deg. +W.; the passage between it and the main S., 40 deg. W.; and the nearest +land about two miles distant. I continued to steer for this passage, +until the boats, which were ahead, made the signal for having no more +than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the island; and +made the signal for the Resolution's boat to keep between the ships +and the shore. + +This island, which obtained the name of _Stuart's Island_, lies in the +latitude of 63 deg. 35', and seventeen leagues from. Cape Denbigh, in the +direction of S., 27 deg. W. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some +parts of it are of a middling height; but, in general, it is low; with +some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is, +for the most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. It +forms a point, opposite the island, which was named _Cape Stephens_, +and lies in latitude 63 deg. 33', and in longitude 197 deg. 41'. Some +drift wood was seen upon the shores, both of the island and of the +continent; but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might +anchor, upon occasion, between the N.E. side of this island and +the continent, in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerly, +southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wholly +exposed to the northerly winds, the land, in that direction, being at +too great distance to afford any security. Before we reached Stuart's +Island, we passed two small islands, lying between us and the main; +and as we ranged along the coast, several people appeared upon the +shore, and, by signs, seemed to invite us to approach them. + +As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W., for the +southernmost point of the continent in sight, till eight o'clock in +the evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less +than four, I tacked, and stood to the northward, into five fathoms, +and then spent the night plying off and on. At the time we tacked, the +southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was +named _Point Shallow-Water_, bore S. 1/2 E., seven leagues distant. + +We resumed our course to the southward at day-break next morning, but +shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length, we got +so far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a N.N.W. course, +meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at +E.N.E. it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast, +upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I +therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deepened the +water to eight fathoms. At the same time we hauled the wind, we were +at least twelve leagues, from the continent, and nine to the westward +of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point +Shallow-Water, which I judge to lie in the latitude of 63 deg.. So that, +between this latitude and Shoal Ness, in latitude 60 deg., the coast is +entirely unexplored. Probably, it is accessible only to boats, or very +small vessels; or at least, if there be channels for large vessels, it +would require some time to find them; and I am of opinion, that they +must be looked for near the coast. From the mast-head, the sea within +us appeared to be chequered with shoals; the water was very much +discoloured and muddy, and considerably fresher than at any of the +places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, that a +considerable river runs into the sea in this unknown part.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Mr Arrowsmith has filled up the coast betwixt the two +points now mentioned, and supplied it also with rivers, according to +the conjecture of Captain Cook. But it is obvious, that this is not +sufficient authority; and therefore, unless better be given, Mr Coxe +seems to have done more correctly, in indicating the space by a dotted +line, the usual mark of an unexplored region.--E.] + +As soon as we got into eight fathoms water, I steered to the westward, +and afterward more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th, +which, at noon the next day, bore S.W. by W., ten or eleven leagues +distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at north, with showers of +hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea; so that we got +clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land +before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named +it _Clerke's Island_. It lies in the latitude of 63 deg. 15', and in the +longitude of 190 deg. 30'. It seemed to be a pretty large island, in which +are four or more hills, all connected by low ground; so that, at a +distance, it looks like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a +small island, remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not +only the greater island, but this small spot, was inhabited.[2] + +[Footnote 2: It is somewhat singular, that neither Arrowsmith nor Coxe +mentions Anderson's Island. The former, on additional authority, has +marked but one island in the position specified, under the name of +Eivoogiena, or Clerke's Island.--E.] + +We got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about six o'clock, +and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought-to during the +night. At day-break, next morning, we stood in again for the coast, +and continued to range along it in search of a harbour till noon; +when, seeing no likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered +S.S.W. for the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July, +having a fresh gale at north, with showers of sleet and snow. I +remarked, that as soon as we opened the channel which separates +the two continents, cloudy weather, with snow showers, immediately +commenced; whereas, all the time we were in Norton Sound, we had, +with the same wind, clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by +the mountains to the north of that place attracting the vapours, and +hindering them to proceed any farther? + +At day-break, in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned +appeared in sight, bearing S.W., six or seven leagues distant. From +this point of view it resembled a group of islands; but it proved to +be but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N.W. and +S.E.; the S.E. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The +island is but narrow; especially at the low necks of land that connect +the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly unknown to the +Russians; and therefore, considering it as a discovery of our own, +I named it _Gore's Island_. It appeared to be barren, and without +inhabitants; at least we saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about +it as when we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters; an +animal which we had not met with to the northward of this latitude.[3] +Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of S., 72 deg. W., lies +a small island, whose elevated summit terminates in several pinnacled +rocks. On this account it was named _Pinnacle Island_. At two in +the afternoon, after passing Cape Upright, I steered S.E. by S., for +Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at N.N.W., being resolved to spend +no more time in searching for a harbour amongst islands, which I now +began to suspect had no existence; at least not in the latitude and +longitude where modern map-makers have thought proper to place them. +In the evening of the 24th, the wind veered to S.W. and S., and +increased to a fresh gale. + +[Footnote 3: Mr Arrowsmith, as in the case of the island mentioned in +the last note, has given the native name to this island, viz. Matwi, +retaining also, however, the name of Gore.--E.] + +We continued to stretch to the eastward, till eight o'clock in the +morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 191 deg. 10', we tacked +and stood to the west; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were +reduced to two courses, and close-reefed main top-sails. Not long +after, the Resolution sprung a leak, under the starboard buttock, +which filled the spirit-room with water before it was discovered; and +it was so considerable as to keep one pump constantly employed. We +durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of getting upon +the shoals that lie to the N.W. of Cape Newenham; but continued +standing to the west till six in the evening of the 26th, when we wore +and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no longer troubled us. +This proved that it was above the water line, which was no small +satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained at S. and +S.W. for some days longer. + +At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we saw the island of +Oonalashka, bearing S.E. But as this was to us a new point of view, +and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our +situation till noon, when the observed latitude determined it. As +all harbours were alike to me, provided they were equally safe and +convenient, I hauled into a bay, that lies ten miles to the westward +of Samganoodha, known by the name of _Egoochshac_; but we found very +deep water; so that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many +of whom lived here, visited us at different times, bringing with them +dried salmon and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for +tobacco. But, a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in +the ship had been distributed among them; and the quantity was not +half sufficient to answer their demands. Notwithstanding this, so +improvident a creature is an English sailor, that they were as profuse +in making their bargains, as if we had now arrived at a port in +Virginia; by which means, in less than eight and forty hours, the +value of this article of barter was lowered above a thousand per cent. + +At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha +harbour; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to +work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale, on the starboard +side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite open; so that it was +no wonder that so much water had found its way into the ship. While +we lay here, we cleared the fish and spirit rooms, and the after-hold; +disposing things in such a manner, that in case we should happen to +have any more leaks of the same nature, the water might find its way +to the pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we +cleared the fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a quantity of +ballast. + +The vegetables which we had met with when we were here before, were +now mostly in a state of decay; so that we were but little benefited +by the great quantities of berries every where found ashore. In order +to avail ourselves as much as possible of this useful refreshment, +one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. +Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives. +If there were any seeds of the scurvy, in either ship, these berries, +and the use of spruce beer, which they had to drink every other day, +effectually eradicated them. + +We also got plenty of fish; at first mostly salmon, both fresh and +dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in +high perfection; but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed, +from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the +seine several times, at the head of the bay; and caught a good +many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and +fifty-four pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and +lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without +eight or ten halibut; which was more than sufficient to serve all +our people. The halibut was excellent, and there were few who did not +prefer them to salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply of fish +for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This +enabled us to make a considerable saving of our provisions, which was +an object of no small importance. + +On the 8th, I received, by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named +Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering the place. It was a +rye loaf, or rather a pye made in, the form of a loaf, for it inclosed +some salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like +present for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a +character which none of us could read. It was natural to suppose, +that this present was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood; and +therefore we sent, by the same hand, to these our unknown friends, +a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter; which we thought would be as +acceptable as anything we had besides; and we soon knew that in +this we had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk, +Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, with orders, +that if he met with any Russians, he should endeavour to make them +understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their +nation.[4] + +[Footnote 4: We must be allowed to notice some particulars in the +history of this remarkable enough man, well known, it is probable, +to most readers, who have been interested in the operations of the +African Association, but, perhaps, not immediately recognised in +the humble situation of a corporal of marines. Some years after this +voyage, viz. in 1786, Lediard, by birth an American, resolved on a +pedestrian excursion across his native continent; for which purpose, +he, first of all, fixed on travelling to Siberia, whence he expected +to be able to obtain a passage to its north-west coast. Sir Joseph +Banks, and other gentlemen, favouring his project, subscribed a sum of +money, not much exceeding fifty pounds, to enable him to put it into +execution. He proceeded to Hamburgh; from thence to Copenhagen; and, +as the gulf of Bothnia was not frozen over, actually walked round its +shores by the way of Tornea, till he arrived at Petersburgh, in the +beginning of March 1787. Here he remained till May, when he obtained +permission to go with a convoy of military stores, intended for +Captain Billings, formerly his ship-mate in Cook's voyage, and now +waiting for it to commence his own examination of the American +coast, &c. With this convoy, Lediard, in the month of August, reached +Irkutsk, in Siberia, at which place, after having gone to Yakutsk, +where he met with Billings, he purposed to remain a part of the +winter, till an opportunity occurred of going to Ochotsk, from which +his passage to America seemed very practicable. So far, then, he +had to congratulate himself on his success. But his enterprise was +speedily interrupted, and all his hopes frustrated, by an order from +the empress; in consequence of which he was arrested, and, under the +guard of an officer and two soldiers, hurried off in a sledge for +Moscow, without being suffered to carry with him either his clothes, +his money, or his papers. The reason of this extraordinary conduct has +not been explained in the communication made by Sir Joseph Banks +to the Biographia Britannica, from which we have collected these +particulars. We are told, however, that the disappointed adventurer +was successively conveyed from Moscow to Moialoff, in White Russia, +and Tolochin, in Poland; at which last place, he was informed, that +the empress had directed he should never enter her dominions again +without her express permission. During the whole of his route, since +he had been made a prisoner, he suffered extreme hardship from ill +health, fatigue, and mortification. At last he reached Konigsberg; +and, to use his own words, in a letter to his patron, after "a +miserable journey, in a miserable country, in a miserable season, in +miserable health, and with a miserable purse," arrived in England. +The ardour of his mind, however, was still entire; and he appeared +as ready as ever to engage in any service, however perilous, which +promised to gratify his own curiosity, and was recommended by men +whose judgment he respected. Accordingly, almost immediately on his +return, it was proposed to him to undertake the first speculative +excursion which the society alluded to projected. On this occasion it +was, as is noticed by the ingenious Mr Forster, in his valuable Essay +on Decision of Character, that he surprised the official person, +who put the Question to him, "When he would be ready for his African +journey?" by instantly answering, "To-morrow!" It may be doubted, +if his acquirements were altogether equally well suited to this +undertaking, as his undaunted spirit and enterprising disposition. +These, indeed, promised interest; and no one could hesitate to +believe, that he would zealously employ every faculty he possessed in +accomplishing the objects committed to him. It was appointed him to +traverse the continent of Africa from east to west, in the latitude of +the river Niger. But this he never accomplished; as, on his arrival at +Cairo, he was seized with a bilious disorder, which terminated in his +death. So much, it seemed but justice to record in this place, of the +person now employed by Captain Cook.--E.] + +On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Russian seamen, or furriers, +who, with some others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had a +dwelling-house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons +burthen. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel, +another of them wrote a very good hand and understood figures, and +they were all three well-behaved intelligent men, and very ready +to give me all the information I could desire. But for want of an +interpreter, we had some difficulty to understand each other. They +appeared to have a thorough knowledge of the attempts that had been +made by their countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of +the discoveries which had been made from Kamtschatka, by Beering, +Tscherikoff, and Spanberg. But they seemed to know no more of +Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd, than his name.[5] Nor had they the least +idea what part of the world Mr Staehlin's map referred to, when it was +laid before them. When I pointed out Kamtschatka, and some other known +places, upon that map, they asked, whether I had seen the islands +there laid down; and on my answering in the negative, one of them +put his finger upon a part of this map, where a number of islands are +represented, and said, that he had cruized there for land, but never +could find any. I then laid before them my own chart, and found that +they were strangers to every part of the American coast, except what +lies opposite this island. One of these men said, that he had been +with Beering in his American voyage, but must then have been very +young, for he had not now, at the distance of thirty-seven years, the +appearance of being aged. Never was there greater respect paid to +the memory of any distinguished person, than by these men to that of +Beering.[6] The trade in which they are engaged is very beneficial; +and its being undertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamtschatka, +was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of that able +navigator, whose misfortunes proved to be the source of much private +advantage to individuals, and of public utility to the Russian nation. +And yet, if his distresses had not accidentally carried him to die in +the island which bears his name, and from whence the miserable remnant +of his ship's crew brought back sufficient specimens of its valuable +furs, probably the Russians never would have undertaken any future +voyages, which could lead them to make discoveries in this sea, toward +the coast of America. Indeed, after his time, government seems to have +paid less attention to this; and we owe what discoveries have been +since made, principally to the enterprising spirit of private traders, +encouraged, however, by the superintending care of the court of +Petersburg. The three Russians having remained with me all night, +visited Captain Clerke next morning, and then left us, very well +satisfied with the reception they had met with, promising to return +in a few days, and to bring with them a chart of the islands lying +between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka. + +[Footnote 5: See the little that is known of Synd's voyage, +accompanied with a chart, in Mr Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. +300.--D.] + +[Footnote 6: This may be considered as a very decisive testimony to +the truth of the character given of him in Mr Coxe's publication. +We are indebted to the same work for ample evidence in proof of the +following remarks of Captain Cook--E.] + +On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr Webber and I were at a village +at a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian landed there, who, I +found, was the principal person amongst his countrymen in this and the +neighbouring islands. His name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin Ismyloff. +He arrived in a canoe carrying three persons, attended by twenty or +thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice, that +the first thing they did after landing, was to make a small tent for +Ismyloff, of materials which they brought with them, and then they +made others for themselves, of their canoes and paddles, which they +covered with grass; so that the people of the village were at no +trouble to find them lodging. Ismyloff having invited us into his +tent, set before us some dried salmon and berries, which, I was +satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared to be a sensible +intelligent man; and I felt no small mortification in not being able +to converse with him, unless by signs, assisted by figures and other +characters, which however were a very great help. I desired to see +him on board the next day; and accordingly he came, with all his +attendants. Indeed, he had moved into our neighbourhood, for the +express purpose of waiting upon us. + +I was in hopes to have had by him, the chart which his three +countrymen had promised, but I was disappointed. However, he assured +me I should have it; and he kept his word. I found that he was very +well acquainted with the geography of these parts, and with all the +discoveries that had been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the +modern maps, he at once pointed out their errors. He told me, he +had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd as he called him, in his +expedition to the north; and, according to his account, they did not +proceed farther than the Tschukotskoi Noss, or rather than the bay +of St Laurence, for he pointed on our chart to the very place where I +landed. From thence, he said, they went to an island in latitude 63 deg., +upon which they did not land, nor could he tell me its name. But I +should guess it to be the same to which I gave the name of Clerke's +Island. To what place Synd went after that, or in what manner he spent +the two years, during which, as Ismyloff said, his researches lasted, +he either could not or would not inform us. Perhaps he did not +comprehend our enquiries about this; and yet, in almost every other +thing, we could make him understand us. This created a suspicion, +that he had not really been in that expedition, notwithstanding his +assertion. + +Both Ismyloff and the others affirmed, that they knew nothing of the +continent of America to the northward; and that neither Lieutenant +Synd, nor any other Russian, had ever seen it. They call it by +the same name which Mr Staehlin gives to his great island, that is +Alaschka. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a +name quite unknown to these people, natives of the islands as well as +Russians; but both, of them know it by the name of America. From what +we could gather from Ismyloff and his countrymen, the Russians +have made several attempts to get a footing upon that part of this +continent that lies contiguous to Oonalashka and the adjoining +islands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they +describe as a very treacherous people. They mentioned two or three +captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them; and some of the +Russians shewed us wounds which, they said, they had received there. + +Some other information which we got from Ismyloff is worth recording, +whether true or false. He told us, that in the year 1773, an +expedition had been made into the Frozen Sea in sledges, over the +ice, to three large islands that lie opposite the mouth of the river +Kovyma. We were in some doubt, whether he did not mean the same +expedition of which Muller gives an account; and yet he wrote down the +year, and marked the islands on the chart.[7] But a voyage which he +himself had performed, engaged our attention more than any other. He +said, that on the 12th of May, 1771, he sailed from Bolscheretzk, in +a Russian vessel, to one of the Kuril islands, named Mareekan, in the +latitude of 47 deg., where there is a harbour, and a Russian settlement. +From this island, he proceeded to Japan, where be seems to have made +but a short stay. For when the Japanese came to know that he and his +companions were Christians, they made signs for them to be gone; but +did not, so far as we could understand him, offer any insult or force. +From Japan, he got to Canton, and from thence to France, in a French +ship. From France, he travelled to Petersburgh, and was afterward sent +out again to Kamtschatka. What became of the vessel in which he first +embarked, we could not learn, nor what was the principal object of +the voyage. His not being able to speak one word of French, made this +story a little suspicious. He did not even know the name of any one of +the most common things that must have been in use every day, while he +was on board the ship, and in France. And yet he seemed clear as to +the times of his arriving at the different places, and of his leaving +them, which he put down in writing.[8] + +[Footnote 7: The latest expedition of this kind, taken notice of by Mr +Muller, was in 1724. But in justice to Mr Ismyloff, it may be proper +to mention, which is done on the authority of a MS. communicated by +Mr Pennant, and the substance of which has been published by Mr +Coxe, that, so late as 1768, the Governor of Siberia sent three young +officers over the ice in sledges to the islands opposite the mouth of +the Kovyma. There seems no reason for not supposing, that a subsequent +expedition of this sort might also be undertaken in 1773. Mr Coxe, p. +324, places the expedition on sledges in 1764, but Mr Pennant's MS. +may be depended upon.--D.] + +[Footnote 8: There is nothing at all unlikely in the voyage now spoken +of. According to Captain Krusenstern, whose information is in all +probability quite unexceptionable, the Kuril islands and Jesso have +been often visited by Russian merchants since 1741, when Spanberg +and Walton reached the coast of Japan; though without any positive +advantage, he says, accruing either to science or commerce from their +visits.--E.] + +The next morning, he would fain have made me a present of a sea-otter +skin, which, he said, was worth eighty rubles at Kamtschatka. However, +I thought proper to decline it; but I accepted of some dried fish, and +several baskets of the lily, or _saranne_ root, which is described at +large in the History of Kamtschatka.[9] In the afternoon, Mr Ismyloff, +after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, +promising to return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he made +us another visit, and brought with him the charts before-mentioned, +which he allowed me to copy, and the contents of which furnish matter +for the following observations:-- + +There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing every mark of +authenticity. The first comprehended the _Penschinskian Sea_, the +coast of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41 deg., the Kuril islands, +and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. Since this map had been made, +Wawseelee Irkecchoff, captain of the fleet, explored, in 1758, the +coast of Tartary, from Okotsk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 41 deg. +of latitude. Mr Ismyloff also informed us, that great part of the +sea-coast of the peninsula of Kamtschatka had been corrected by +himself, and described the instrument he made use of, which must have +been a _theodolite_. He also informed us, that there were only two +harbours fit for shipping, on all the east coast of Kamtschatka, viz. +the bay of _Awatska_, and the river _Olutora_, in the bottom of the +gulf of the same name, that there was not a single harbour upon its +west coast, and that _Yamsk_ was the only one on all the west side of +the Penschinskian Sea, except Okotsk, till we come to the river Amur. +The Kuril islands afford only one harbour, and that is on the N.E. +side of Mareekan, in the latitude of 47-1/2 deg., where, as I have before +observed, the Russians have a settlement. + +[Footnote 9: English translation, p. 83, 84.] + +The second chart was to me the most interesting; for it comprehended +all the discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of +Kamtschatka, toward America, which, if we exclude the voyage of +Beering and Tscherikoff, will amount to little or nothing. The part of +the American coast, with which the latter fell in, is marked in this +chart, between the latitude of 58 deg. and 58-1/2 deg., and 75 deg. of longitude +from Okotsk, or, 218-1/2 deg. from Greenwich; and the place where the +former anchored, in 59-1/2 deg. of latitude, and 63-1/2 deg. of longitude from +Okotsk, or 207 deg. from Greenwich. To say nothing of the longitude, +which may be erroneous from many causes, the latitude of the coast, +discovered by these two navigators, especially the part of it +discovered by Tscherikoff, differs considerably from the account +published by Mr Muller, and his chart. Indeed, whether Muller's +chart, or this now produced by Mr Ismyloff, be most erroneous in this +respect, it may be hard to determine, though it is not now a point +worth discussing. But the islands that lie dispersed between 52 deg. and +55 deg. of latitude, in the space between Kamtschatka and America, deserve +some notice. According to Mr Ismyloff's account, neither the number +nor the situation of these islands is well ascertained. He struck out +about one-third of them, assuring me they had no existence, and he +altered the situation of others considerably, which, he said, was +necessary, from his own observations. And there was no reason to doubt +about this. As these islands lie all nearly under the same parallel, +different navigators, being misled by their different reckonings, +might easily mistake one island, or group of islands, for another, and +fancy they had made a new discovery, when they had only found old ones +in a different position from that assigned to them by their former +visitors. + +The islands of St Macarius, St Stephen, St Theodore, St Abraham, +Seduction Island, and some others, which are to be found in Mr +Muller's chart, had no place in this now produced to us; nay, both Mr +Ismyloff, and the others, assured me, that they had been several times +sought for in vain. And yet it is difficult to believe how Mr Muller, +from whom subsequent map-makers have adopted them, could place them in +this chart without some authority. Relying, however, on the testimony +of these people, whom I thought competent witnesses, I have left them +out of my chart, and made such corrections amongst the other islands +as I was told was necessary. I found there was wanting another +correction; for the difference of longitude, between the Bay of +Awatska, and the harbour of Samganoodha, according to astronomical +observations, made at these two places, is greater by five degrees +and a half, than it is by the chart. This error I have supposed to +be infused throughout the whole, though it may not be so in reality. +There was also an error in the latitude of some places, but this +hardly exceeded a quarter of a degree. + +I shall now give some account of the islands, beginning with those +that lie nearest to Kamtschatka, and reckoning the longitude from +the harbour of Petropaulowska, in the Bay of Awatska. The first is +_Beering's Island_, in 55 deg. of latitude, and 6 deg. of longitude. Ten +leagues from the south end of this, in the direction of E. by S., or +E.S.E., lies _Meidenoi Ostroff_, or the Copper Island. The next island +is _Atakou_, laid down in 52 deg. 45' of latitude, and in 15 deg. or 16 deg. of +longitude. This island is about eighteen leagues in extent, in the +direction of E. and W., and seems to be the same land which Beering +fell in with, and named _Mount St John_. But there are no islands +about it, except two inconsiderable ones, lying three or four leagues +from the east end, in the direction of E.N.E. + +We next come to a group, consisting of six or more islands, two of +which, _Atghka_ and _Amluk_ are tolerably large, and in each of them +is a good harbour. The middle of this group lies in the latitude of +52 deg. 30', and 28 deg. of longitude from Awatska, and its extent, E. and W., +is four degrees. These are the isles that Mr Ismyloff said were to be +removed four degrees to the E., which was done. And in the situation +they have in my chart, was a group, consisting of ten small islands, +which, I was told, were wholly to be struck out, and also two islands +lying between them and the group to which Oonalashka belongs. In the +place of these two, an island called Amoghta (which in the chart was +situated in the latitude of 51 deg. 45', and 4 deg. of longitude to the W.) +was brought. + +Nothing more need be said to shew how erroneous the situation of many +of these islands may be, and for which I am in nowise accountable. But +the position of the largest group, of which Oonalashka is one of the +principal islands, and the only one in which there is a harbour, is +not liable to any such errors. Most of these islands were seen by +us, and consequently their latitude and longitude were pretty exactly +determined, particularly the harbour of Samganoodha in Oonalashka, +which must be looked upon as a fixed point. This group of islands +maybe said to extend as far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leagues +from Oonalashka toward the E.N.E. Within these isles, a passage was +marked in Ismyloff's chart, communicating with Bristol Bay, which +converts about fifteen leagues of the coast, that I had supposed to +belong to the continent, into an island, distinguished by the name of +_Ooneemak_. This passage might easily escape us, as we were informed, +that it is very narrow, shallow, and only to be navigated through with +boats, or very small vessels.[10] + +[Footnote 10: This passage is marked on all the modern maps, no doubt +on the somewhat scanty authority here given. With respect to most of +the islands now alluded to, the opinion entertained of their utter +insignificance, will account for and perhaps justify the sparing +solicitude we have used to ascertain their number and position. Some +less suspicious data than are to be met with in the accounts of early +Russian voyages, would be requisite, to induce much attention to a +subject of even greater importance.--E.] + +It appeared by the chart, as well as by the testimony of Ismyloff and +the other Russians, that this is as far as their countrymen have made +any discoveries, or have extended themselves, since Beering's time. +They all said, that no Russians had settled themselves so far to the +east as the place where the natives gave the note to Captain Clerke, +which Mr Ismyloff, to whom I delivered it, on perusing it, said, had +been written at Oomanak. It was, however, from him that we got the +name of _Kodiak_, the largest of Schumagin's Islands; for it had no +name upon the chart produced by him.[11] The names of all the other +islands were taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by +him. He said, they were all such as the natives themselves called +their islands by; but, if so, some of the names seem to have been +strangely altered. It is worth observing, that no names were put to +the islands which Ismyloff told us were to be struck out of the +chart, and I considered this as some confirmation that they have no +existence. + +[Footnote 11: A Russian ship had been at Kodiak in 1776, as appears +from a MS. obligingly communicated by Mr Pennant.--D.] + +I have already observed, that the American continent is here called +by the Russians, as well as by the islanders, Alaschka; which name, +though it properly belong only to the country adjoining to Oonemak, is +used by them when speaking of the American continent in general, which +they know perfectly well to be a great land. + +This is all the information I got from these people, relating to the +geography of this part of the world; and I have reason to believe that +this was all the information they were able to give. For they assured +me, over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides +those which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had +ever seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, +except that which lies opposite the country of the Tschutskis. + +If Mr Staehlin was not grossly imposed upon, what could induce him +to publish a map so singularly erroneous, and in which many of these +islands are jumbled together in regular confusion, without the least +regard to truth; and yet he is pleased to call it _a very accurate +little map_.[12] Indeed, it is a map to which the most illiterate of +his illiterate sea-faring countrymen would have been ashamed to set +his name. + +[Footnote 12: Staehlin's New Northern Archipelago, p. 15.] + +Mr Ismyloff remained with us till the 21st, in the evening, when he +took his final leave. To his care I intrusted a letter to the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was inclosed a chart of +all the northern coasts I had visited. He said there would be an +opportunity of sending it to Kamtschatka, or Okotsk, the ensuing +spring, and that it would be at Petersburg the following winter. He +gave me a letter to Major Behm, governor of Kamtschatka, who +resides at Bolscheretsk, and another to the commanding officer, +at Petropaulowska. Mr Ismyloff seemed to have abilities that might +entitle him to a higher station in life, than that in which we found +him. He was tolerably well versed in astronomy, and in the most useful +branches of the mathematics. I made him a present of an Hadley's +octant; and though, probably, it was the first he had ever seen, he +made himself acquainted, in a very short time, with most of the uses +to which that instrument can be applied. + +In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get to sea, with +the wind at S.E., which miscarried. The following afternoon, we were +visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposnicoff, a Russian, who commanded +a boat, or small vessel, at Oomanak. This man had a great share of +modesty, and would drink no strong liquor, of which the rest of his +countrymen, whom we had met with here, were immoderately fond. He +seemed to know more accurately what supplies could be got at the +harbour of Petropaulowska, and the price of the different articles, +than Mr Ismyloff. But, by all accounts, every thing we should want +at that place was very scarce, and bore a high price. Flour, for +instance, was from three to five roubles the pood,[13] and deer from +three to five roubles each. This man told us that he was to be at +Petropaulowska in May next, and, as I understood, was to have the +charge of my letter. He seemed to be exceedingly desirous of having +some token from me to carry to Major Behm, and to gratify him, I sent +a small spying-glass. + +[Footnote 13: 36 lb.] + +After we became acquainted with these Russians, some of our gentlemen, +at different times, visited their settlement on the island, where +they always met with a hearty welcome. This settlement consisted of a +dwelling-house and two store-houses. And, besides the Russians, there +was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the natives, as servants, +or slaves, to the former. Some others of the natives, who seemed +independent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them +as belonged to the Russians were all males, and they are taken, or +perhaps purchased, from their parents when young. There was, at this +time, about twenty of these, who could be looked upon in no other +light than, as children. They all live in the same house; the Russians +at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the natives at +the lower end, where is fixed a large boiler for preparing their food, +which consists chiefly of what the sea produces, with the addition of +wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the first +and last table, besides what is produced by cookery, in which the +Russians have the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have eat +whale's flesh of their dressing, which I thought very good; and they +made a kind of pan-pudding of salmon roe, beaten up fine, and fried, +that is no bad _succedaneum_ for bread. They may, now and then, taste +real bread, or have a dish in which flour is an ingredient; but this +can only be an occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries +which they sip at their meals, they have no other liquor besides pure +water; and it seems to be very happy for them that they have nothing +stronger. + +As the island supplies them with food, so it does, in a great measure, +with clothing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is, perhaps, the +best they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner's +frock, and reaches as low as the knee. Besides this, they wear a +waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pair of boots, +the soles and upper leathers of which are of Russian leather, but the +legs are made of some kind of strong gut. Their two chiefs, Ismyoff +and Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock, and they, as well as some +others, had shirts, which were of silk. These, perhaps, were the only +part of their dress not made amongst themselves. + +There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands between +Oonalashka and Kamtschatka, for the sole purpose of collecting furs. +Their great object is the sea-beaver or otter. I never heard them +enquire after any other animal; though those, whose skins are of +inferior value, are also made part of their cargoes. I never thought +to ask how long they have had a settlement upon Oonalashka, and the +neighbouring isles; but to judge from the great subjection the natives +are under, this cannot be of a very late date.[14] All these furriers +are relieved, from time to time, by others. Those we met with arrived +here from Okotsk, in 1776, and are to return in 1781; so that their +stay at the island will be four years at least.[15] + +[Footnote 14: The Russians began to frequent Oonalashka in 1762. See +_Coxe's Russian Discoveries_, ch. viii. p. 80.--D.] + +[Footnote 15: Captain Cook says nothing of the condition of these +furriers, and probably indeed knew nothing of it. According to +Krusenstern, who cannot be supposed to seek for occasion to censure +his countrymen, it is wretched in the extreme. He himself admits that +his transcript, though softened down from his original notes made at +the time, will nevertheless expose him to the anger of a number of +persons for whom, in other respects, he entertains the highest regard. +But one may question if any of the accounts that have been given of +the African slave-trade produce greater horror than this modified +description occasions. The reader must not imagine that the physical +difficulties of the climate constitute the misery of these deluded +beings. These are certainly very formidable, and of themselves present +a sufficient barrier to the enjoyment of any thing bearing the shape +of comfort. But evils of another sort, arising from avarice and the +abuse of power, are so galling, as would induce a man "to fly from +even the most beautiful and the best-gifted country," if his +residence in it subjected him to their tyranny. The agents of the +Russian-American Company, as the reader will instantly divine, are +chargeable with the enormous barbarity and injustice to which these +remarks apply; and the fearless seaman does not scruple to expose +them to public indignation, in consequence. We shall communicate a +few particulars, referring those who desire more information on the +subject to the work itself. The persons who engage in the Company's +service, we are informed, are vagabonds and adventurers,--but not +criminals, be it remembered,--to whom the fabulous reports of the +state of affluence to be easily attained, which are industriously +circulated, operate as an incentive to sail to America in the +condition of Promiischleniks, a word originally signifying any who +carry on a trade, but here, as it is the only occupation, restricted +to those who collect furs. Their misery commences with their voyage, +which is generally performed in vessels so exceedingly crowded, that a +large proportion of the passengers are necessitated to sleep upon the +deck, which, in such a climate, it is obvious, must expose them to +almost certain disease and death. This last, indeed, is the most +desirable destiny they can experience, as those who have the +misfortune to survive are subjected to almost incalculable calamities +from the want of proper food and clothing, under the rigours of the +climate, and the still more relentless severity of their task-masters. +From the treatment which the sick receive, we may perhaps, with some +exercise of imagination, infer, what the mode of life must be, +of those whom superior force of constitution preserves in health. +Speaking of a particular case which he had an opportunity of +witnessing, Captain K. says, "We went to visit the sick, and it is +impossible for me to describe the shocking, the disgusting state in +which we found them; nearly all appeared to labour under incurable +scorbutic and venereal sores, although they had been ten months on +shore, and had enjoyed the assistance of the surgeon of St Peter and +St Paul. Even of this they were now about to be deprived, and on the +point of being removed, by a long and tedious navigation, to places +where they must either forego all surgical attendance, or obtain it +from people totally unskilled in the practice. I was curious to learn +on what food the sick were kept, and was shewn two casks of salt meat +destined for them. I requested to see a piece of it; but, on opening +the cask, so disgusting and pestilential a smell took possession +of the hold as compelled me instantly to quit it. Two tons of this +stinking salt meat, and some sacks of mouldy black biscuit, were the +only nourishing provisions on board for twenty invalids, for, to this +number, (out of seventy,) they actually amounted before the Maria (the +vessel they were on board) left St Peter and St Paul (for Kodiak)." +Was not the practice said to have been adopted at Jaffa by an +extraordinary character, to be esteemed for mercifulness in comparison +of this? Train oil and the flesh of the sea-lion, with a mixture of +rye-meal and water, form the choicest provisions of those who are +well, either on board a ship or on shore; these, it must be owned, are +quite suitable to the iron rule of the agent, under whom there can +be neither personal property nor individual security, because he is +subject to no law, and there are no courts of justice in Kodiak, or +any other of the company's possessions. Few of these wretched outcasts +ever again reach Russian ground, very few indeed attain the object +of their wishes (we dare not say hopes) to return to Europe. Disease, +disappointment, innumerable sufferings, continual drunkenness, the +only solace in which, for obvious reasons, they are indulged, bring +them speedily to the end of their unhappy existence, and leave a +vacant stage for the miseries of new victims. Should a remnant have +a more lengthened career, and having, by infinite pain and trouble, +amassed a little property, get back to Ochotsk, thinking to return +home and spend their days in comfort with their relatives, they are +beset by fresh and perhaps still more aggravated vexations. They +cannot leave that place, it seems, till they have closed accounts with +the agents, and, as this is frequently protracted, no doubt with +the most diabolical design, they become idle, spend what they had +acquired, run into debt, (for sufficient credit is allowed them), +and at last are necessitated to revert to their former slavery with +perhaps far less ability than formerly, and with no other expectation +of relief than what is afforded by the certainty of their dissolution. +It is impossible to contemplate this distressing picture a moment +longer. Let us leave it.--E.] + +It is now time to give some account of the native inhabitants. To all +appearance, they are the most peaceable, inoffensive people, I ever +met with. And, as to honesty, they might serve as a pattern to the +most civilized nation upon earth. But, from what I saw of their +neighbours, with whom the Russians have no connection, I doubt whether +this was their original disposition, and rather think that it has been +the consequence of their present state of subjection. Indeed, if some +of our gentlemen did not misunderstand the Russians, they had been +obliged to make some severe examples, before they could bring the +islanders into any order. If there were severities inflicted at first, +the best apology for them is, that they have produced the happiest +consequences, and, at present, the greatest harmony subsists between +the two nations. The natives have their own chiefs in each island, and +seem to enjoy liberty and property unmolested. But whether or no they +are tributaries to the Russians, we could never find out. There was +some reason to think that they are.[16] + +[Footnote 16: See the particulars of hostilities between the Russians +and the natives, in Coxe, as cited above.--D. + +It will readily be inferred from what has already been mentioned of +the conduct of the Russian agents towards their own countrymen, that +the circumstance of the unfortunate islanders, who are also subjected +to their sway, cannot be very eligible. A single quotation from the +work referred to, will answer every purpose we can have in view in +alluding to them in this place. "The chief agent of the American +Company is the boundless despot over an extent of country, which, +comprising the Aleutic islands, stretches from 57 to 61 degrees +of latitude, and from 130 to 190 degrees of east longitude. The +population of the islanders annually decreasing, and the wretched +condition of the Russians living there, sufficiently proves, that, +from their first migration to these islands and to the American +coast, up to the present moment, the Company's possessions have been +entrusted to people, who were, indeed, zealous for its own advantage, +but frequently more so for that of a few subordinate agents." A +Lieutenant Davidoff, he gives us to understand, had collected some +very important notices respecting these possessions of the Company, +and had imparted to him a fragment of them relative to the +situation of the islanders and their conquerors. This however is +not communicated, apparently for a reason mentioned, viz. that this +officer proposed publishing on the subject when he returned to St +Petersburg; and that though unfortunately he lost his life in the +Neva before that took place, his manuscript, which was in the hands of +Admiral Schischkoff, will be printed by the Admiralty. We shall wonder +if it be so, concluding as to its contents from what is already made +known. Though it is possible, indeed, to imagine, that it may be made +use of as a testimony against the bad management and inhuman conduct +of the agents of the Company, in order to justify the interference of +the legislature in their concerns, which certainly appears to be much +wanted. Altogether, it is obvious then, that the statement of matters +which Captain Cook has given in the text, applies to a golden age, +in comparison of what we are assured was lately existing in these +regions. What changes have been wrought by the representations of +Krusenstern we have not heard.--E.] + +These people are rather low of stature, but plump and well-shaped, +with rather short necks, swarthy chubby faces, black eyes, small +beards, and long, straight, black hair, which the men wear loose +behind and cut before, but the women tie up in a bunch. + +Their dress has been occasionally mentioned. Both sexes wear the same +in fashion, the only difference is in the materials. The women's frock +is made of seal-skin, and that of the men, of the skins of birds, both +reaching below the knee. This is the whole dress of the women. But +over their frock, the men wear another made of gut, which resists +water, and has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some of them +wear boots, and all of them have a kind of oval snouted cap, made of +wood, with a rim to admit the head. These caps are dyed with green and +other colours; and round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long +bristles of some sea-animal, on which are strung glass-beads, and on +the front is a small image or two made of bone. + +They make use of no paint; but the women puncture their faces +slightly; and both men and women bore the under-lip, to which they +fix pieces of bone. But it is as uncommon, at Oonalashka, to see a man +with this ornament, as to see a woman without it. Some fix beads to +the upper-lip, under the nostrils; and all of them hang ornaments in +their ears. + +Their food consists of fish, sea-animals, birds, roots, and berries, +and even of sea-weed. They dry large quantities of fish in summer, +which they lay up in small huts for winter use; and probably they +preserve roots and berries for the same time of scarcity. They eat +almost every thing raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of +cookery that I saw them make use of; and the first was probably learnt +from the Russians. Some have got little brass-kettles; and those who +have not, make one of a flat stone, with sides of clay, not unlike a +standing pye. + +I was once present, when the chief of Oonalashka made his dinner of +the raw head of a large halibut, just caught. Before any was given +to the chief, two of his servants eat the gills, without any other +dressing, besides squeezing out the slime. This done, one of them cut +off the head of the fish, took it to the sea and washed it, then came +with it, and sat down by the chief, first pulling up some grass, upon +a part of which the head was laid, and the rest was strewed before the +chief. He then cut large pieces of the cheeks, and laid these +within the reach of the great man, who swallowed them with as much +satisfaction as we should do raw oysters. When he had done, the +remains of the head were cut in pieces, and given to the attendants, +who tore off the meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones like so +many dogs. + +As these people use no paint, they are not so dirty in their persons +as the savages who thus besmear themselves; but they are full as lousy +and filthy in their houses. Their method of building is as follows: +They dig in the ground an oblong square pit, the length of which +seldom exceeds fifty feet, and the breadth twenty; but in general the +dimensions are smaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of +wood which the sea throws ashore. This roof is covered first with +grass, and then with earth, so that the outward appearance is like a +dunghill. In the middle of the roof, toward each end, is left a square +opening, by which the light is admitted; one of these openings being +for this purpose only, and the other being also used to go in and out +by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a post, with steps cut in +it.[17] In some houses there is another entrance below; but this is +not common. Round the sides and ends of the huts, the families, (for +several are lodged together) have their separate apartments, where +they sleep, and sit at work, not upon benches, but in a kind of +concave trench, which is dug all round the inside of the house, and +covered with mats; so that this part is kept tolerably decent. But +the middle of the house, which is common to all the families, is +far otherwise. For, although it be covered with dry grass, it is a +receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the urine trough; +the stench of which is not mended by raw hides, or leather being +almost continually steeped in it. Behind and over the trench, are +placed the few effects they are possessed of, such as their cloathing, +mats, and skins. + +[Footnote 17: Mr Coxe's description of the habitations of the natives +of Oonalashka, and the other Fox Islands, in general, agrees with +Captain Cook's. See _Russian Discoveries_, p. 149. See also _Histoire +des differents Peuples soumis a la Domination des Russes_, par M. +Levesque, tom. i. p. 40, 41.--D.] + +Their household furniture consists of bowls, spoons, buckets, piggins +or cans, matted-baskets, and perhaps a Russian kettle or pot. All +these utensils are very neatly made, and well formed; and yet we saw +no other tools among them but the knife and the hatchet, that is, +a small flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a +crooked wooden handle. These were the only instruments we met with +there made of iron. For although the Russians live amongst them, we +found much less of this metal in their possession, than we had met +with in the possession of other tribes on the American continent, who +had never seen, nor perhaps had any intercourse with, the Russians. +Probably a few beads, a little tobacco, and snuff, purchase all they +have to spare. There are few, if any of them, that do not both smoke +and chew tobacco, and take snuff; a luxury that bids fair to keep them +always poor. + +They did not seem to wish for more iron, or to want any other +instruments, except sewing-needles, their own being made of bone. With +these they not only sew their canoes, and make their clothes, but +also very curious embroidery. Instead of thread they use the fibres +of sinews, which they split to the thickness which each sort of work +requires. All sewing is performed by the women. They are the tailors, +shoe-makers, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers; for the men, most +probably, construct the frame of wood over which the skins are sewed. +They make mats and baskets of grass, that are both beautiful and +strong. Indeed, there is a neatness and perfection in most of their +work, that shews they neither want ingenuity nor perseverance. + +I saw not a fire-place in any one of their houses; they are lighted as +well as heated, by lamps, which are simple, and yet answer the purpose +very well. They are made of a flat stone, hollowed on one side like a +plate, and about the same size, or rather larger. In the hollow part +they put the oil, mixed with a little dry grass, which serves the +purpose of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies +over one of these lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their +garments, and sitting thus over it for a few minutes. + +They produce fire both by collision and by attrition; the former by +striking two stones one against another, on one of which a good deal +of brimstone is first rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of +wood; one of which is a stick of about eighteen inches in length, and +the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the slick they press upon +the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing fire in +a few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is +practised by the Kamtschadales, by these people, by the Greenlanders, +by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and +probably by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men +have founded an argument on this custom to prove, that this and that +nation are of the same extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few +particular instances, will not authorise such a conclusion; nor will +a disagreement, either in manners or customs, between two different +nations, of course, prove that they are of different extraction. I +could support this opinion by many instances besides the one just +mentioned.[18] + +[Footnote 18: We formerly hazarded some observations, on this subject, +which may properly claim regard, if the concurrent opinion of Cook +be any commendation. It is rare with him to venture on theoretic +conjectures; but his truly excellent remarks, so indicative of candid +and unbiassed enquiry, may justly serve as the basis of very extensive +reasoning. His professional career, in short, may be considered as +a course of experimental investigations, from which there results a +system of philosophy of no ordinary interest or importance. Can one +help regretting, that he did not live, like Newton, to deduce the +legitimate consequences of his own discoveries? But, alas! how rapidly +are we now approaching to the last suggestions of his sagacious +mind!--E.] + +No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen +amongst the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot suppose that the Russians +found them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that, for +their own security, they have disarmed them. Political reasons too +may have induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have +any large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none such +originally, as we found them amongst all their neighbours. However, +we saw none here but one or two belonging to the Russians. The canoes +made use of by the natives are the smallest we had any where seen +upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some +little difference in the construction. The stern of these terminates +a little abruptly; the head is forked, the upper point of the fork +projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface +of the water. Why they should thus construct them is difficult to +conceive; for the fork is apt to catch hold of every thing that comes +in the way; to prevent which, they fix a piece of small stick from +point to point. In other respects, their canoes are built after the +manner of those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; the framing +being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about +twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or +fourteen inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two persons; one +of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the other sits +in the seat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this +hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut-skin, that can +be drawn together, or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted +to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin +tight round his body over his gut-frock, and brings the ends of the +thongs or purse-string, over the shoulder to keep it in its place. +The sleeves of his frock are tied tight round his wrists, and it being +close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is +confined by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his body, +or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the +boatman carries a piece of spunge, with which he dries it up. He uses +the double-bladed paddle, which is held with both hands in the middle, +striking the water with a quick regular motion, first on one side +and then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a +great rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn. In +sailing from Egoochshak to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way +with the ship, though she was going at the rate of seven miles an +hour. + +Their fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under +straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, +of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the +Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only difference is +in the point of the missile dart, which, in some we saw here, is +not above an inch long; whereas Crantz says, that those of the +Greenlanders are a foot and a half in length. Indeed, these darts, as +well as some others of their instruments, are so curious, that they +deserve a particular description; but, as many of them were brought +away on board the ships, this can be done at any time, if thought +necessary. These people are very expert in striking fish, both in the +sea, and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets and +wears. The hooks are composed of bone, and the lines of sinews. + +The fishes which are common to other northern seas, are found here; +such as whales, grampusses, porpoises, swordfish, halibut, cod, +salmon, trout, seals, flat-fish; several other sorts of small fish; +and there may be many more that we had no opportunity of seeing. +Halibut and salmon seem to be in the greatest plenty, and on them the +inhabitants of these isles subsist chiefly; at least, they were the +only sort of fish, except a few cod, which we observed to be laid up +for their winter store. To the north of 60 deg., the sea is, in a manner, +destitute of small fish of every kind; but then whales are more +numerous. + +Seals and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous as +in many other seas. Nor can this be thought strange, since there is +hardly any part of the coast, on either continent, nor any of +the islands lying between them, that is not inhabited, and whose +inhabitants hunt these animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses +are, indeed, in prodigious numbers about the ice; and the sea-otter +is, I believe, no where found but in this sea. We sometimes saw an +animal, with a head like a seal's, that blew after the manner of +whales. It was larger than a seal, and its colour was white, with some +dark spots. Probably this was the sea-cow, or _manati_. + +I think I may venture to assert, that sea and water fowls are neither +in such numbers, nor in such variety, as with us in the northern parts +of the Atlantic Ocean. There are some, however, here, that I do +not remember to have seen any where else; particularly the _alca +monochroa_ of Steller, before mentioned; and a black and white duck, +which I conceive to be different from the stone-duck described by +Krascheninicoff.[19] All the other birds seen by us are mentioned by +this author, except some that we met with near the ice; and most, if +not all, of these, are described by Martin in his voyage to Greenland. +It is a little extraordinary, that penguins, which are common in many +parts of the world, should not be found in this sea. Albatrosses too +are so very scarce, that I cannot help thinking that this is not their +proper climate. + +[Footnote 19: History of Kamtschatka. Eng. Trans. p. 160.] + +The few land birds that we met with are the same with those in Europe; +but there may be many others which we had no opportunity of knowing. A +very beautiful bird was shot in the woods at Norton Sound, which, I +am told, is sometimes found in England, and known by the name of +Chatterer. Our people met with other small birds there, but in no +great variety and abundance; such as the wood pecker, the bullfinch, +the yellow finch, and a small bird called a tit-mouse. + +As our excursions and observations were confined wholly to the +sea-coast, it is not to be expected, that we could know much of the +animals or vegetables of the country. Except musquitoes, there are +few other insects; nor reptiles, that I saw, but lizards. There are no +deer upon Oonalashka, or upon any other of the islands. Nor have they +any domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and weasels were the only +quadrupeds we saw; but they told us, that they had hares also, and +the _marmottas_ mentioned by Krascheninicoff.[20] Hence it is evident, +that the sea and rivers supply the greatest share of food to the +inhabitants. They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood made +use of for building, and other necessary purposes; for not a stick +grows upon any of the islands, nor upon the adjacent coast of the +continent. + +[Footnote 20: History of Kamtschatka, p. 99.] + +The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are, by various means, +conveyed from one part of the world to another, even to islands in the +midst of great oceans, and far remote from any other land. How comes +it to pass, that there are no trees growing on this part of the +continent of America, nor any of the islands lying near it? They are +certainly as well situated for receiving seeds, by all the various +ways I have heard of, as any of those coasts are that abound in wood. +May not nature have denied to some soil the power of raising trees, +without the assistance of art? As to the drift-wood upon the shores of +the islands, I have no doubt that it comes from America. For although +there may be none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow farther +up the country, which torrents in the spring may break loose, and +bring down to the sea. And not a little may be conveyed from the woody +coasts, though they lie at a greater distance.[21] + +[Footnote 21: More extensive observations than what Cook's time +allowed him to make, would be requisite to determine the questions +which he has just now started. Besides, it is fair to remark, that +there is some reason for demurring at one of the premises, with which +he sets out, viz. that the islands, he speaks of, are as well situate +for receiving seeds, as any of the coasts are that abound in wood. +At least, before admitting it, we ought to be assured of the equal +vicinity of sources from which these seeds might be received, the +predominance or occasional alteration of currents fit for their +conveyance, &c. On the other hand, what is conjectured about the +variety of soils, is so obvious, as to need no pointing out. With +respect to the drift-wood, it may be right to state, by way of +corroborating a supposition hazarded by Cook, that there is reason to +believe, that much of the internal parts of North America, and even +the declivities, though not the summits of most of the high ranges of +mountains traversing it, either have been, or are, well covered +with trees. Here, it is worth while to allude to a very singular +circumstance mentioned in the account of Lewis and Clarke's Travels to +the Source of the Missouri, &c. viz. that a great number of the trunks +of trees of the pine genus were found standing erect, and with their +roots fixed, but in a state of decay, in the bottom of the Columbia +river, on the west coast. It is difficult to explain this, but on the +supposition of some considerable change in the course of the river; +and it is sufficiently obvious, that such changes, which we know have +often occurred elsewhere, might soon occasion the removal of trees +from their original situation to any distance. We cannot spare time or +room to carry on the investigation of the subject; but no reader +can be at a loss to estimate the probable results of the fact now +mentioned. To some persons, however, it may be necessary to mention, +that the Missouri itself is a striking instance of both changeability +of course, and a corresponding operation in transporting trees, &c.; +the latter circumstance being apparently both the cause and the effect +of the former. Thus we are informed in the work already referred +to, that at the place where the party embarked on the last-mentioned +river, its current, which was extremely rapid, brought down great +quantities of drift-wood, that its bottom was full of logs of trees, +and that the course of the water was frequently varying from the +effects of sand-bars, &c. of its own formation. For an obvious reason, +it is to be wished, that Cook had mentioned to what species of trees +the drift-wood he found had belonged. How rarely are even intelligent +persons quite aware of the importance of the facts which are presented +to them; and how much has been lost, or which is, in fact, the same +thing, not gained to science, in consequence of the carelessness with +which they have been examined!--E.] + +There are a greater variety of plants at Oonalashka, and most of them +were in flower the latter end of June. Several of them are such as +we find in Europe, and in other parts of America, particularly +in Newfoundland; and others of them, which are also met with in +Kamtschatka, are eat by the natives both there and here. Of these, +Krascheninicoff has given us descriptions. The principal one is the +_saranne_, or lily root, which is about the size of a root of garlic, +round, made up of a number of small cloves, and grains like +groats. When boiled, it is somewhat like saloop; the taste is not +disagreeable, and we found means to make some good dishes with it. It +does not seem to be in great plenty; for we got none but what Ismyloff +gave us. We must reckon amongst the food of the natives, some other +wild roots; the stalk of a plant resembling _angelica_, and berries +of several different sorts; such as bramble-berries, cran-berries, +hurtle-berries, heath-berries, a small red berry, which, in +Newfoundland, is called partridge-berry, and another brown berry, +unknown to us. This has somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike +it in every other respect. It is very astringent, if eaten in any +quantity. Brandy might be distilled from it. Captain Clerke attempted +to preserve some; but they fermented, and became as strong as if they +had been steeped in spirits. + +There were a few other plants, which we found serviceable, but are +not made use of by either Russians or natives. Such as wild purslain, +pea-tops, a kind of scurvy-grass, cresses, and some others. All these +we found very palatable, dressed either in soups or in sallads. On the +low ground, and in the vallies, is plenty of grass, which grows very +thick, and to a great length. I am of opinion, that cattle might +subsist at Oonalashka all the year round, without being housed. And +the soil, in many places, seemed capable of producing grain, roots, +and vegetables. But, at present, the Russian traders, and the natives, +seem satisfied with what nature brings forth. + +Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the island; but I +had no opportunity of learning where they got it. We found also ochre, +a stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good +green. It may be doubted, whether this last is known. In its natural +state, it is of a greyish green colour, coarse and heavy. It easily +dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely loses its +properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka; but we were told, +that it was in greater plenty on the island Oonemak. As to the +stones about the shore and hills, I saw nothing in them that was +uncommon.[22] + +[Footnote 22: Very probably the stone that gave a green colour was +an ore of copper; but the scanty description renders it difficult to +ascertain the species. The other, which is said to have given a purple +colour, may also have contained the same metal.--E.] + +The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and +raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country, +one of the natives, who attended me, pointed out several of these +receptacles of the dead. There was one of them, by the side of the +road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a +heap of stones. It was observed, that every one who passed it, added +one to it. I saw in the country several stone-hillocks, that seemed +to have been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of great +antiquity. + +What their notions are of the Deity, and of a future state, I know +not. I am equally unacquainted with their diversions; nothing having +been seen that could give us an insight into either. + +They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each other, and +always behaved with great civility to us. The Russians told us, that +they never had any connections with their women, because they were not +Christians. Our people were not so scrupulous; and some of them had +reason to repent that the females of Oonalashka encouraged their +addresses without any reserve; for their health suffered by a +distemper that is not unknown here. The natives of this island are +also subject to the cancer, or a complaint like it, which those +whom it attacks are very careful to conceal. They do not seem to +be long-lived. I no where saw a person, man or woman, whom I could +suppose to be sixty years of age; and but very few who appeared to +be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means of +shortening their days. + +I have frequently had occasion to mention, from the time of our +arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably the natives, on this +north-west side of America, resemble the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, +in various particulars of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the +like. However, I was much less struck with this, than with the +affinity which we found subsisting between the dialects of the +Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of Norton's Sound and +Oonalashka. This will appear from a table of corresponding words which +I put together. + +It must he observed, however, with regard to the words which we +collected on this side of America, that too much stress is not to be +laid upon their being accurately represented; for, after Mr Anderson's +death, we had few who took much pains about such matters; and I have +frequently found, that the same words written down by two or more +persons, from the mouth of the same native, on being compared +together, differed not a little. But still, enough is certain, to +warrant this judgment, that there is great reason to believe, that +all these nations are of the same extraction; and if so, there can be +little doubt of there being a northern communication of some sort, +by sea, between this west side of America and the east side, through +Baffin's Bay, which communication, however, may be effectually shut +up against ships by ice, and other impediments. Such, at least, was my +opinion at this time.[23] + +[Footnote 23: This subject has been alluded to in the Introduction, +and will in all probability receive consideration in the course of +this Collection. It is unnecessary, therefore, to enter upon it in +this place. We shall merely mention a few particulars. The west coast +of Greenland has not been explored beyond 72 deg. latitude. Little or +nothing, that can be relied on, is known concerning the sea of Davis +or Baffin's Bay; the latter, indeed, being generally considered as +imaginary, and having no other evidence for its existence, than the +assertions, of a man conceived unworthy of credit. The whole distance +from the coast of that bay, as commonly laid down, to the point where +Hearne saw the sea, viz. in 69 deg. latitude, being about sixty degrees +of longitude, is totally unknown. The same thing is to be said of +both the space betwixt the last mentioned spot, and that at which +Mackenzie's river is conceived to enter, which is denominated the +Arctic Sea, amounting to upwards of twenty degrees more, and also +of about an equal space betwixt this last position and Icy Cape, the +highest point at which Captain Cook arrived in this voyage. If any +passage do exist, it is certain, that it must be beyond 69 deg. latitude, +as high as which, it has been indubitably proved by the labours of +Cook, Mackenzie, and Hearne, that the continent of America is unbroken +by any navigable passage from sea to sea. Above that latitude, it +is not only possible, but also even probable, that the Arctic Sea, +supposing it to be the same which Mackenzie and Hearne saw, and that +it is equally low down, or nearly so, throughout the other spaces +alluded to, may, in some peculiarly mild seasons, admit the passage +of canoes, if not of larger vessels. The circumstance of a much higher +latitude having been actually navigated in the Atlantic Ocean, might +seem to warrant such an opinion, and would, of course, justify some +renewed attempts in such an enterprise, were it not, that it has been +proved by the present voyage, that the ice extends lower down in the +Pacific Ocean, and that there is no small reason to believe, that +Greenland forms an integral part of the American continent. Still, +however, in every view of the subject, there does appear encouragement +to make some experiments of the nature of Hearne's and Mackenzie's, +particularly towards the east of the track explored by the former; and +it is even extremely probable, that some marine co-operation in the +direction of both Hudson's Bay and Davis' Strait, would facilitate and +secure some discovery of more utility, than a mere improvement of our +maps. But it is improper to disburden imagination on such a subject in +this place.--E.] + +I shall now quit these northern regions, with a few particulars +relative to the tides and currents upon the coast, and an account of +the astronomical observations made by us in Samganoodha harbour. + +The tide is no where considerable but in the great river.[24] + +[Footnote 24: Cook's River.] + +The flood comes from the south or south-east, every where following +the direction of the coast to the north-westward. Between Norton +Sound and Cape Prince of Wales, we found a current setting to the +north-west, particularly off the cape and within Sledge Island. But +this current extended only a little way from the coast, nor was it +either consistent or uniform. To the north of Cape Prince of Wales, +we found neither tide nor current, either on the American or on the +Asiatic coast, though several times looked for. This gave rise to an +opinion entertained by some on board our ships, that the two coasts +were connected, either by land or by ice; which opinion received some +strength, by our never having any hollow waves from the north, and by +our seeing ice almost the whole way across. + +The following are the results of the several observations made ashore, +during our stay in the harbour of Samganoodha. + + The latitude, by the mean of several observed + meridian altitudes of the sun, 53 deg. 5' 0" + By the mean of 20 sets \ + of lunar observations, } 193 47 45 + / with the sun east of the } + The longitude { moon / + \By the mean of 14 sets, \ + with the sun and stars } 193 11 45 + west of the moon / + ------------- + The mean of these 193 29 45 + The longitude assumed 193 30 0 + + By the mean of equal altitudes of the sun, + taken on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 21st, + the time-keeper was found to be losing + on mean time 8", 8 each day; and, on + the last of these days, was too slow for + mean time 13^h 46^m 43^s, 98. Hence the + time-keeper must have been too slow on + the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13^h + 44^m 26^s, 62; and the longitude, by Greenwich + rate, will be 13^h 23^m 53^s, 8 200 58 27 + + By King George's (or Nootka) Sound rate, + 12^h 56^m 40^s, 4 194 10 6 + + The 30th of June, the time-keeper, by the + same rate, gave 193 12 0 + + The error of the time-keeper, at that time, + was 0 18 0 W. + + At this time, its error was 0 39 54 E. + + The error of the time-keeper, between our + leaving Samganoodha, and our return to + it again, was 0 57 54 + + On the 12th of October, the variation /A.M. 20 deg. 17' 2"\ Mean 19 deg. 59' + By the mean of three compasses, \P.M. 19 41' 27 / 15" East. + + Dip of the needle / Unmarked end \Dipping, /68 deg. 45'\ Face / 69 deg. 30' + \ Marked end / face East \69 55 / West \ 69 17 + + Mean of the dip of the north end of the needle 62 deg. 23' 30". + + +SECTION XII. + +_Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views,--The Island +Amoghta.--Situation of a remarkable Rock.--The Strait between +Oonalashka and Oonella repassed.--Progress to the South.--Melancholy +Accident on board the Discovery.--Mowee, one of the Sandwich +Islands, discovered.--Intercourse with the Natives.--Visit from +Terreeoboo.--Another Island, called Owhyhee, discovered.--The +Ships ply to windward to get round it.--An Eclipse of the Moon +observed.--The Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane Beer.--Cordage +deficient in Strength.--Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee.--The +Resolution gets to Windward of the Island.--Her Progress down +the South-East Coast.--Views of the Country, and Visits from the +Natives.--The Discovery joins.--Slow Progress Westward.--Karakakooa +Bay examined by Mr Bligh.--Vast Concourse of the Natives.--The Ships +anchor in the Bay._ + +In the morning of Monday the 26th, we put to sea from Samganoodha +harbour; and, as the wind was southerly, stood away to the westward. + +My intention was now to proceed to Sandwich Islands, there to spend +a few of the winter months, in case we should meet with the necessary +refreshments, and then to direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to +endeavour to be there by the middle of May, the ensuing summer. In +consequence of this resolution, I gave Captain Clerke orders how to +proceed, in case of separation; appointing Sandwich Islands for the +first place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropaulowska, in +Kamtschatka, for the second. + +Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered to the S.E. and +E.S.E., which, by the evening, carried us as far as the western part +of Oonalashka, where we got the wind at S. With this we stretched to +the westward, till seven o'clock the next morning, when we wore, and +stood to the E. The wind, by this time, had increased in such a manner +as to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in very heavy squalls, +attended with rain, hail, and snow. + +At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the island of Oonalashka +bore S.E., four leagues distant. We then wore and stood to the +westward. The strength of the gale was now over, and toward evening +the little wind that blew insensibly veered round to the E., where it +continued but a short time before it got to N.E., and increased to a +very hard gale with rain. I steered first to the southward, and as the +wind inclined to the N. and N.W., I steered more westerly. + +On the 29th, at half past six in the morning, we saw land extending +from E. by S. to S. by W., supposed to be the island Amoghta. At +eight, finding that we could not weather the island, as the wind had +now veered, to the westward, I gave over plying, and bore away for +Oonalashka, with a view of going to the northward and eastward of that +island, not daring to attempt a passage to the S.E. of it, in so hard +a gale of wind. At the time we bore away, the land extended from E. +by S. 1/2 S. to S.S.W., four leagues distant. The longitude by the +time-keeper was 191 deg. 17', and the latitude 53 deg. 38'. This will give a +very different situation to this island from that assigned to it upon +the Russian map. But it must be remembered, that this is one of the +islands which Mr Ismyloff said was wrong placed. Indeed, it is a doubt +if this be Amoghta;[1] for after Ismyloff had made the correction, no +land appeared upon the map in this latitude; but, as I have observed +before, we must not look for accuracy in this chart. + +[Footnote 1: On the chart of Krenitzen's and Levasheff's voyage in +1768 and 1769, which we find in Mr Coxe's book, p. 251, an island +called Amuckta, is laid down, not very far from the place assigned to +Amoghta by Captain Cook.--D.] + +At eleven o'clock, as we were steering to the N.E., we discovered +an elevated rock, like a tower, bearing N.N.E. 1/2 E., four leagues +distant. It lies in the latitude of 53 deg. 57', and in the longitude of +191 deg. 2', and hath no place in the Russian map.[2] We must have passed +very near it in the night. We could judge of its steepness from this +circumstance, that the sea, which now run very high, broke no where +but against it. At three in the afternoon, after getting a sight of +Oonalashka, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind, not having time to +get through the passage before night. At day-break the next morning, +we bore away under courses, and close-reefed top-sails, having a very +hard gale at W.N.W., with heavy squalls, attended with snow. At noon, +we were in the middle of the Strait, between Oonalashka, and Oonella, +the harbour of Samganoodha bearing S.S.E., one league distant. At +three in the afternoon, being through the Strait, and clear of the +isles, Cape Providence bearing W.S.W., two or three leagues distant, +we steered to the southward, under double-reefed top-sails and +courses, with the wind at W.N.W., a strong gale, and fair weather. + +[Footnote 2: Though this rock had no place in the Russian map +produced by Ismyloff, it has a place in the chart of Krenitzen's and +Levasheff's voyage above referred to. That chart also agrees with +Captain Cook's, as to the general position of this group of islands. +The singularly indented shores of the island of Oonalashka are +represented in both charts much alike. These circumstances are worth +attending to, as the more modern Russian maps of this Archipelago are +so wonderfully erroneous.--D.] + +On Monday, the 2d of November, the wind veered to the southward; and, +before night, blew a violent storm, which obliged us to bring to. The +Discovery fired several guns, which we answered; but without knowing +on what occasion they were fired. At eight o'clock, we lost sight of +her, and did not see her again till eight the next morning. At ten, +she joined us; and, as the height of the gale was now over, and the +wind had veered back to W.N.W., we made sail, and resumed our course +to the southward. + +The 6th, in the evening, being in the latitude of 42 deg. 12', and in the +longitude of 201 deg. 26'", the variation was 17 deg. 15' E. The next morning, +our latitude being 41 deg. 20', and our longitude 202 deg., a shag, or +cormorant, flew several times round the ship. As these birds are +seldom, if ever, known to fly far out of sight of land, I judged +that some was not far distant. However, we could see none. In the +afternoon, there being but little wind, Captain Clerke came on board, +and informed me of a melancholy accident that happened on board his +ship, the second night after we left Samganoodha. The main tack gave +way, killed one man, and wounded the boatswain, and two or three more. +In addition to this misfortune, I now learned, that, on the evening of +the 2d, his sails and rigging received considerable damage; and that +the guns which he fired were the signal to bring to.' + +On the 8th, the wind was at N.; a gentle breeze with clear weather. On +the 9th, in the latitude of 39-1/2 deg., we had eight hours calm. This +was succeeded by the wind from, the S., attended with fair weather. +Availing ourselves of this, as many of our people as could handle a +needle, were set to work to repair the sails; and the carpenters were +employed to put the boats in order. + +On the 12th at noon, being then in the latitude of 38 deg. 14', and in the +longitude of 206 deg. 17', the wind returned back to the northward; and, +on the 15th, in the latitude of 33 deg. 30', it veered to the E. At this +time, we saw a tropic-bird, and a dolphin, the first that we had +observed during the passage. On the 17th, the wind veered to the +southward, where it continued till the afternoon of the 19th, when a +squall of wind and rain brought it at once round by the W. to the N. +This was in the latitude of 32 deg. 26', and in the longitude of 207 deg. 30'. + +The wind presently increased to a very strong gale, attended with +rain, so as to bring us under double-reefed top-sails. In lowering +down the main top-sail to reef it, the wind tore it quite out of the +foot rope, and it was split in several other parts. This sail had only +been brought to the yard the day before, after having had a repair. +The next morning we got another top-sail to the yard. This gale proved +to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which, in, latitude 25 deg., +veered to E. and E.S.E. + +I continued to steer to the southward till day-light in the morning +of the 25th, at which time we were in the latitude of 20 deg. 55'. I now +spread the ships, and steered to the W. In the evening we joined, +and at midnight brought-to. At day-break, next morning, land was seen +extending from S.S.E. to W. We made sail, and stood for it. At eight, +it extended from S.E. 1/2 S. to W., the nearest part two leagues +distant. It was supposed that we saw the extent of the land to the +east, but not to the west. We were now satisfied, that the group of +the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered; as those +of them which we had visited in our progress northward, all lie to the +leeward of our present station. + +In the country was an elevated saddle hill, whose summit appeared +above the clouds. From this hill, the land fell in a gentle slope, and +terminated in a steep rocky coast, against which the sea broke in a +dreadful surf. Finding that we could not weather the island, I bore +up, and ranged along the coast to the westward. It was not long before +we saw people on several parts of the shore, and some houses and +plantations. The country seemed to be both well wooded and watered, +and running streams were seen falling into the sea in various places. + +As it was of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at +these islands; and experience having taught me that I could have no +chance to succeed in this if a free trade with the natives were to be +allowed; that is, if it were left to every man's discretion to +trade for what he pleased, and in the manner he pleased; for this +substantial reason, I now published an order, prohibiting all persons +from trading, except such as should be appointed by me and Captain +Clerke; and even these were enjoined to trade only for provisions and +refreshments. Women were also forbidden to be admitted into the ships, +except under certain restrictions. But the evil I meant to prevent by +this regulation, I soon found, had already got amongst them. + +At noon, the coast extended from S., 81 deg. E., to N. 56 deg. W.; a low flat, +like an isthmus, bore S., 42 deg. W.; the nearest shore three or four +miles distant; the latitude was 20 deg. 59', and the longitude 203 deg. 50'. +Seeing some canoes coming off to us, I brought-to. As soon as they got +alongside, many of the people, who conducted them, came into the ship, +without the least hesitation. We found them to be of the same nation +with the inhabitants of the islands more to leeward, which we had +already visited; and, if we did not mistake them, they knew of our +having been there. Indeed, it rather appeared too evident; for these +people had got amongst them, the venereal distemper; and, as yet, I +knew of no other way of its reaching them but by an intercourse with +their neighbours since our leaving them. + +We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish for nails and +pieces of iron. They brought very little fruit and roots; but told us +that they had plenty or them on their island, as also hogs and fowls. +In the evening, the horizon being clear to the westward, we judged +the westernmost land in sight to be an island, separated from that off +which we now were. Having no doubt that the people would return to the +ships next day, with the produce of their country, I kept plying off +all night, and in the morning stood close in shore. At first, only a +few of the natives visited us; but, toward noon, we had the company +of a good many, who brought with them bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro, +or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs; all of which they +exchanged for nails and iron tools. Indeed, we had nothing else to +give them. We continued trading with, them till four o'clock in the +afternoon, when, having disposed of all their cargoes, and not seeming +inclined to fetch more, we made sail, and stood off shore. + +While we were lying-to, though the wind blew fresh, I observed that +the ships drifted to the east, consequently there must have been +a current setting in that direction. This encouraged me to ply to +windward, with a view to get round the east end of the island, and so +have the whole lee-side before us. In the afternoon of the 30th, being +off the N.E. end of the island, several canoes came off to the ships. +Most of these belonged to a chief, named Terreeoboo, who came in one +of them. He made me a present of two or three small pigs; and we got, +by barter, from the other people, a little fruit. After a stay +of about two hours they all left us, except six or eight of their +company, who chose to remain on board. A double-sailing canoe came +soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all night. +In the evening, we discovered another island to windward, which the +natives call _Owhyhee_. The name of that, off which we had been for +some days, we were also told is _Mowee_. + +On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, Owhyhee extended from +S., 22' E, to S. 12 deg. W.; and Mowee from N. 41 deg. to N. 83 deg. W. Finding +that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it; and our visitors from +Mowee not choosing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe, and went +ashore. At seven in the evening, we were close up with the north side +of Owhyhee; where we spent the night, standing off and on. + +In the morning of the 2d, we were surprised to see the summits of the +mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. They did not appear to be of +any extraordinary height; and yet, in some places, the snow seemed to +be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there some time. As we +drew near the shore, some of the natives came off to us. They were a +little shy at first; but we soon enticed some of them on board; and at +last prevailed upon them to return to the island, and bring off what +we wanted. Soon after they reached the shore, we had company enough; +and few coming empty-handed, we got a tolerable supply of small pigs, +fruit, and roots. We continued trading with them till six in the +evening; when we made sail, and stood off, with a view of plying to +windward round the island. + +In the evening of the 4th, we observed an eclipse of the moon. Mr King +made use of a night-telescope, a circular aperture being placed at +the object end, about one-third of the size of the common aperture. +I observed with the telescope of one of Ramsden's sextants; which, I +think, answers this purpose as well as any other. The following times +are the means, as observed by us both: + + Longitude. + 6^h 3' 25" beginning of the eclipse 204 deg. 40' 45" + 8 27 25 end of the eclipse 204 25 15 + ------------ + Mean 204 35 0 + + +The _penumbra_ was visible at least ten minutes before the beginning +and after the end of the eclipse. I measured the uneclipsed part of +the moon with one of Ramsden's sextants, several times before, at, and +after the middle of the eclipse; but did not get the middle so near +as might have been effected by this method. Indeed, these observations +were made only as an experiment, without aiming at much nicety. I also +measured mostly one way; whereas I ought to have brought alternately +the reflected and direct images on contrary sides with respect to each +other; reading the numbers off the quadrant, in one case, to the left +of the beginning of the divisions; and, in the other case, to the +right hand of the same. It is evident, that half the sum of these two +numbers must be the true measurement, independent of the error of the +quadrant; and this is the method that I would recommend. + +But I am well assured, that it might have been observed much nearer; +and that this method maybe useful when neither the beginning nor end +of an eclipse can be observed, which may often happen. + +Immediately after the eclipse was over, we observed the distance of +each limb of the moon from _Pollux_ and _alpha Arietis_; the one being +to the east, and the other to the west. An opportunity to observe, +under all these circumstances, seldom happens; but when it does, it +ought not to be omitted; as, in this case, the local errors to which +these observations are liable, destroy each other; which, in all other +cases, would require the observations of a whole moon. The following +are the results of these observations: + + Myself with / _a Arietis_ - 204 deg. 22' 07" \ mean 204 deg. 21' 5" + \ _Pollux_ - 204 20 4 / + + Mr King with / _a Arietis_ - 204 27 45 \ mean 204 18 29 + \ _Pollux_ - 204 9 12 / + ----------- + Mean of the two means 204 19 47 + + The time-keeper, at 4^h 30', to which time all the \ 204 04 45 + lunar observations are reduced / + +The current which I have mentioned, as setting to the eastward, had +now ceased; for we gained but little by plying. On the 6th, in the +evening, being about five leagues farther up the coast, and near the +shore, we had some traffic with the natives. But, as it had furnished +only a trifling supply, I stood in again next morning, when we had +a considerable number of visitors; and we lay-to, trading with them, +till two in the afternoon. By that time, we had procured pork, fruit, +and roots, sufficient for four or five days. We then made sail, and +continued to ply to windward. + +Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane; and having, upon a trial, +made but a few days before, found, that a strong decoction of it +produced a very palatable beer, I ordered some more to be brewed for +our general use. But when the cask was now broached, not one of my +crew-would even so much as taste it. As I had no motive in preparing +this beverage, but to save our spirit for a colder climate, I gave +myself no trouble, either by exerting authority, or by having recourse +to persuasion, to prevail upon them to drink it; knowing that there +was no danger of the scurvy, so long as we could get a plentiful +supply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be disappointed in +my views, I gave orders that no grog should be served in either ship. +I myself, and the officers, continued to make use of the sugar-cane +beer whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of +which we had some on board, improved it much. It has the taste of +new malt beer; and I believe no one will doubt of its being very +wholesome. And yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it was injurious +to their health. + +They had no better reason to support a resolution, which they took on +our first arrival in King George's Sound, not to drink the spruce-beer +made there. But, whether from a consideration that it was not the +first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from some +other reason, they did not attempt to carry their purpose into actual +execution; and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed +their ignorant opposition to my best endeavours to serve them. Every +innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so much to +the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest +disapprobation. Both portable soup, and sour krout, were, at first, +condemned as stuff unfit for human beings. Few commanders have +introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of +food and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders have had the +same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to +the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great +measure, owing to various little deviations from established practice, +that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from +that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has, perhaps, destroyed +more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by +the enemy in military expeditions.[3] + +[Footnote 3: So much for the effect of ignorance and prejudice. One +requires the strong evidence of such a careful observer as Captain +Cook to be convinced of their existence, in such intense degree, among +a set of people, accustomed, from the nature of their profession, to +witness the vast variety of different manners and modes of life in +different countries; though every notion we could form of their habits +and tempers might lead us to infer _a priori_, the obstinacy with +which they would resist any innovation on their established practices. +Probably, however, when left to themselves, they readily enough fall +in with changes; and hence it may often be more judicious to put +temptations in their way, in order to obtain a salutary purpose, than +to recommend or enforce it as conducive to their welfare. It is easy +to understand, on the common principles of human nature, that the +former method will generally prove most efficient; whereas the +latter, because it implies a kind of restraint, will, consequently, be +disliked, and opposed or evaded. Sailors, on the whole, perhaps, bear +the greatest resemblance to children of any of the full-grown species. +It is of some consequence to know how to treat them as such. A little +coaxing and flattery is a very necessary ingredient in any thing +intended for them; and often it may be extremely politic to seem to +refuse, or to be averse to give them what we are at the same time +really anxious they should have. But it is easy to prescribe in such +cases!--E.] + +I kept at some distance from the coast, till the 13th, when I stood +in again, six leagues farther to windward than we had as yet reached; +and, after having some trade with the natives who visited us, returned +to sea. I should have got near the shore again on the 15th, for a +supply of fruit or roots, but the wind happening to be at S.E. by S., +and S.S.E., I thought this a good time to stretch to the eastward, in +order to get round, or, at least, to get a sight of the S.E. end of +the island. The wind continued at S.E. by S., most part of the 16th. +It was variable between S. and E, on the 17th; and on the 18th, it was +continually veering from one quarter to another; blowing, sometimes, +in hard squalls, and, at other times, calm, with thunder, lightning, +and rain. In the afternoon, we had the wind westerly for a few +hours; but in the evening it shifted to E. by S., and we stood to the +southward, close hauled, under an easy sail, as the Discovery was at +some distance astern. At this time the S.E. point of the island bore +S.W. by S., about five leagues distant; and I made no doubt that I +should be able to weather it. But at one o'clock, next morning, it +fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a north-easterly swell, +which impelled us fast towards the land; so that, long before +day-break, we saw lights upon the shore, which was not more than a +league distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. + +At three o'clock, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the S.E. by +E., blowing in squalls, with rain. We stood to the N.E., thinking it +the best tack to clear the coast; but, if it had been day-light, +we should have chosen the other. At day-break, the coast was seen +extending from N. by W., to S.W. by W.; a dreadful surf breaking +upon the shore, which was not more than half a league distant. It was +evident that we had been in the most imminent danger. Nor were we yet +in safety, the wind veering more easterly; so that, for some time, we +did but just keep our distance from the coast. What made our situation +more alarming, was the leach-rope of the main top-sail giving way, +which was the occasion of the sail's being rent in two; and the two +top-gallant sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn +out. By taking a favourable opportunity, we soon got others to the +yards, and then we left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at +some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see +her till eight o'clock. + +On this occasion, I cannot help observing, that I have always found, +that the bolt-ropes to our sails have not been of sufficient strength +or substance. This at different times, has been the source of infinite +trouble and vexation, and of much expence of canvas, ruined by their +giving way. I wish also, that I did not think there is room for +remarking, that the cordage and canvas, and, indeed, all the other +stores made use of in the navy, are not of equal goodness with those, +in general, used in the merchant service. + +It seems to be a very prevalent opinion, amongst naval officers of all +ranks, that the king's stores are better than any others, and that no +ships are so well fitted out as those of the navy. Undoubtedly they +are in the right, as to the quantity; but, I fear, not as to the +quality of the stores. This, indeed, is seldom tried; for things are +generally condemned, or converted to some other use, by such time as +they are half worn out. It is only on such voyages as ours, that we +have an opportunity of making the trial, as our situation makes it +necessary to wear every thing to the very utmost.[4] + +[Footnote 4: Captain Cook may, in part, be right in his comparison of +some cordage used in the king's service, with what is used in that +of the merchants; especially in time of war, when part of the cordage +wanted in the navy is, from necessity, made by contract. But it is +well known, that there is no better cordage than what is made in the +king's yards. This explanation of the preceding paragraph has been +subjoined, on the authority of a naval officer of distinguished rank, +and great professional ability, who has, at the same time, recommended +it as a necessary precaution, that ships fitted out on voyages of +discovery, should be furnished with no cordage, but what is made in +the king's yards; and, indeed, that every article of their store, of +every kind, should be the best that can be made.--D.] + +As soon as day-light appeared, the natives ashore displayed a white +flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friendship. Some +of them ventured out after us; but the wind freshening, and it not +being safe to wait, they were soon left astern. + +In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather the eastern +extreme, which, failed, I gave it up, and run down to the Discovery. +Indeed, it was of no consequence to get round the island; for we had +seen its extent to the S.E., which was the thing I aimed at; and, +according to the information which we had got from the natives, there +is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we were +so near the S.E. end of it, and as the least shift of wind, in our +favour, would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the +idea of weathering it, and therefore continued to ply. + +On the 20th, at noon, this S.E. point bore S., three leagues distant; +the snowy hills W.N.W., and we were about four miles from the nearest +shore. In the afternoon, some of the natives came off in their canoes, +bringing with them a few pigs and plantains. The latter were very +acceptable, having had no vegetables for some days; but the supply we +now received was so inconsiderable, being barely sufficient for one +day, that I stood in again the next morning, till within three or four +miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes, laden with +provisions. We brought-to, and continued trading with the people +in them, till four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty good +supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward. + +I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion, +in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we experienced in the +people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the +ship the several articles they brought off for barter; afterward, they +would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. +The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to +put so much confidence in us. I infer from this, that those of Owhyhee +must be more faithful in their dealings with one another, than the +inhabitants of Otaheite are. For, if little faith were observed +amongst themselves, they would not be so ready to trust strangers. +It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never +once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to commit a theft. They +understand trading as well as most people; and seemed to comprehend +clearly the reason of our plying upon the coast. For, though they +brought off provisions in great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they +kept up their price; and, rather than dispose of them for less than +they thought they were worth, would take them on shore again.[5] + +[Footnote 5: The reader is desired to pay particular attention to the +high testimony borne by Cook to the characters of these islanders. It +is a circumstance too singularly interesting not to give rise to some +painful reflections, that, on apparently good grounds, he should have +entertained the best opinion of those very people, from whom he was +destined shortly afterwards to receive the greatest of injuries. +However that event is to be explained, it seems very fair that his +evidence in their favour obtain full regard, and that they, therefore, +be entitled to any benefits it may be supposed to confer.--E.] + +On the 22d, at eight in the morning, we tacked to the southward, with +a fresh breeze at E. by N. At noon, the latitude was 20 deg. 28' 30"; and +the snowy peak bore S.W. 1/2 S. We had a good view of it the preceding +day, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased, and to extend +lower down the hill. I stood to the S.E. till midnight, then tacked +to the N. till four in the morning, when we returned to the S.E. tack; +and, as the wind was at N.E. by E., we had hopes of weathering the +island. We should have succeeded, if the wind had not died away, and +left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward +the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length, we got our +head off, and some light puffs of wind, which came with showers +of rain, put us out of danger. While we lay, as it were, becalmed, +several of the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. +Out of one canoe we got a goose, which was about the size of a Muscovy +duck. Its plumage was dark-grey, and the bill and legs black. + +At four in the afternoon, after purchasing every thing that the +natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasion +for, we made sail, and stretched to the N., with the wind at E.N.E. At +midnight, we tacked, and stood to the S.E. Upon a supposition that the +Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted; but she did not +see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the N.; +for at day-light next morning she was not in sight. At this time the +weather being hazy we could not see far, so that it was possible the +Discovery might be following us; and, being past the N.E. part of the +island, I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering to N.E., +we could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently we +could not stand to the N, to join, or look for, the Discovery. At +noon, we were, by observation, in latitude of 19 deg. 55', and in the +longitude of 205 deg. 3'; the S.E. point of the island bore S. by E. 1/4 +E, six leagues distant; the other extreme bore N, 60 deg. W., and we +were two leagues from the nearest shore. At six in the evening, the +southernmost extreme of the island bore S.W., the nearest shore seven +or eight miles distant; so that we had now succeeded in getting +to windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much +perseverance. + +The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen. But the wind, as we +had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded, that +it would not be long before she joined us. I therefore kept cruizing +off this S.E. point of the island, which lies in the latitude of +19 deg. 34', and in the longitude of 205 deg. 6', till I was satisfied that +Captain Clerke could not join me here. I now conjectured, that he had +not been able to weather the N.E. part of the island, and had gone to +leeward, in order to meet me that way. + +As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes, +except one, came off to us till the 28th, when we were visited by a +dozen or fourteen. The people who conducted them brought, as usual, +the produce of the island. I was very sorry that they had taken the +trouble to come so far. For we could not trade with them, our +old stock not being, as yet, consumed; and we had found, by late +experience, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots +preserved from putrefaction, many days. However, I intended not to +leave this part of the island before I got a supply, as it would not +be easy to return to it again, in case it should be found necessary. + +We began to be in want on the 30th, and I would have stood in near +the shore, but was prevented by a calm; but a breeze springing up at +midnight from S. and S.W., we were enabled to stand in for the land at +day-break. At ten o'clock in the morning, we were met by the islanders +with fruit and roots; but, in all the canoes, were only three small +pigs. Our not having bought those which had been lately brought +off, may be supposed to be the reason of this very scanty supply. We +brought-to for the purposes of trade; but, soon after, our marketing +was interrupted by a very hard rain, and, besides, we were rather too +far from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer; for I could not depend upon +the wind's remaining where it was for a moment; the swell also being +high, and setting obliquely upon the shore, against which it broke +in a frightful surf. In the evening the weather mended; the night was +clear, and it was spent in making short boards. + +Before day-break, the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, +and the new year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued, +at intervals, till past ten o'clock. The wind was southerly; a light +breeze with some calms, when the rain ceased and the sky cleared, and +the breeze freshened. Being, at this time, about five miles from the +land, several canoes arrived with fruit and roots, and, at last, +some hogs were brought off. We lay to, trading with, them till three +o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable supply, we made +sail, with a view of proceeding to the N.W., or lee-side of the +island, to look for the Discovery. It was necessary, however, the wind +being at S., to stretch first to the eastward, till midnight, when +the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. +For several days past, both wind and weather had been exceedingly +unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain. + +The three following days were spent in running down the S.E. side of +the island. For, during the nights, we stood off and on; and part of +each day was employed in lying-to, in order to furnish an opportunity +to the natives of trading with us. They sometimes came on board, +while we were five leagues from the shore. But, whether from a fear +of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of a market, +they never brought much with them. The principal article procured was +salt, which was extremely good. + +On the 5th in the morning, we passed the south point of the island, +which lies in the latitude of 18 deg. 54', and beyond it we found the +coast to trend N. 60 deg. W. On this point stands a pretty large village, +the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs and women. +It was not possible to keep the latter from coming on board, and no +women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it appeared to me, +that they visited us with no other view, than to make a surrender of +their persons. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no +hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under +size. However, we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds +weight. It was happy for us, that we had still some vegetables on +board, for we now received few such productions. Indeed this part of +the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording +them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a +volcano, every where presented themselves; and though we had as yet +seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had +made in this neighbourhood, was visible to the naked eye. + +This part of the coast is sheltered from the reigning winds, but we +could find no bottom to anchor upon, a line of an hundred and sixty +fathoms not reaching it, within the distance of half a mile from the +shore. The islanders having all left us, toward the evening, we ran +a few miles down the coast, and then spent the night standing off and +on. + +The next morning, the natives visited us again, bringing with them the +same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, I sent +Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to +land, and to look for fresh water. Upon his return, he reported, that, +at two cables' lengths from the shore, he had found no soundings with +a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms; that, when he landed, he +found no stream or spring, but only rain-water, deposited in holes +upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, +and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and +ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven we +saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the +island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Clerke then +coming on board, informed me, that he had cruised four or five days +where we were separated, and then plied round the east side of the +island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried +to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board +all this time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to +quit the ship, though opportunities had offered. + +Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again the next +morning, and when we were about a league from the shore, many of the +natives visited us. At noon, the observed latitude was 19 deg. 1', and the +longitude, by the time-keeper, was 203 deg. 26', the island extending from +S. 74 deg. E. to N. 13 deg. W., the nearest part two leagues distant. + +At day-break on the 8th, we found that the currents, during the +night, which we spent in plying, had carried us back considerably to +windward; so that we were now off the S.W. point of the island. There +we brought-to, in order to give the natives an opportunity of trading +with us. At noon our observed latitude was 19 deg. 1', and our longitude, +by the time-keeper, was 203 deg. 13', the S.W. point of the island N. 30 deg. +E., two miles distant. + +We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It happened, that +four men and ten women who had come on board the preceding day, still +remained with us. As I did not like the company of the latter, I stood +in shore towards noon, principally with a view to get them out of the +ship; and some canoes coming off, I took that opportunity of sending +away our guests. + +We had light airs from N.W. and S.W., and calms, till eleven in the +morning of the 10th, when the wind freshened at W.N.W., which, with a +strong current setting to the S.E., so much retarded us, that, in the +evening, between seven and eight o'clock, the S. point of the island +bore N. 10-1/2 deg. W., four leagues distant. The south snowy hill now +bore N. 1-1/2 deg. E. + +At four in the morning of the 11th, the wind having fixed at W., I +stood in for the land, in order to get some refreshments. As we drew +near the shore, the natives began to come off. We lay to, or stood on +and off, trading with them all the day, but got a very scanty supply +at last. Many canoes visited us, whose people had not a single thing +to barter, which convinced us, that this part of the island must be +very poor, and that we had already got all that they could spare. We +spent the 12th plying off and on, with a fresh gale at W. A mile from +the shore and to the N.E. of the S. point of the island, having tried +soundings, we found ground at fifty-five fathoms depth, the bottom a +fine sand. At five in the evening, we stood to the S.W., with the wind +at W.N.W., and soon after midnight we had a calm. + +At eight o'clock next morning, having got a small breeze at S.S.E., we +steered to the N.N.W., in for the land. Soon after, a few canoes came +along-side with some hogs, but without any vegetables, which articles +we most wanted. We had now made some progress; for at noon the S. +point of the island bore S. 86-1/2 deg. E., the S.W. point N. 13 deg. W., the +nearest shore two leagues distant; latitude, by observation, 18 deg. 56', +and our longitude, by the time-keeper, 203 deg. 40'. We had got the length +of the S.W. point of the island in the evening, but the wind now +veering to the westward and northward, during the night we lost all +that we had gained. Next morning, being still off the S.W. point of +the island, some canoes came off; but they had nothing that we were +in want of. We had now neither fruit nor roots, and were under a +necessity of making use of some of our sea-provisions. At length, some +canoes from the northward brought us a small supply of hogs and roots. + +We had variable light airs next to a calm, the following day, till +five in the afternoon, when a small breeze at E.N.E. springing up, +we were at last enabled to steer along shore to the northward. The +weather being fine, we had plenty of company this day, and abundance +of every thing. Many of our visitors remained with us on board all +night, and we towed their canoes astern. + +At day-break on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr +Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time +three leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts; so that +before ten o'clock, there were no fewer than a thousand about the two +ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs and +other productions of the island. We had the most satisfying proof of +their friendly intentions; for we did not see a single person who had +with him a weapon of any sort. Trade and curiosity alone had brought +them off. Among such numbers as we had at times on board, it is no +wonder that some should betray a thievish disposition. One of our +visitors took out of the ship a boat's rudder. He was discovered, +but too late to recover it. I thought this a good opportunity to shew +these people the use of fire-arms; and two or three muskets, and as +many four-pounders, were fired over the canoe, which carried off +the rudder. As it was not intended that any of the shot should take +effect, the surrounding multitude of natives seemed rather more +surprised than frightened. + +In the evening Mr Bligh returned, and reported, that he had found +a bay in which was good anchorage, and fresh water in a situation +tolerably easy to be come at. Into this bay I resolved to carry the +ships, there to refit, and supply ourselves with every refreshment +that the place could afford. As night approached, the greater part of +our visitors retired to the shore, but numbers of them requested our +permission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at +least with some; for, the next morning, several things were missing, +which determined me not to entertain so many another night. + +At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we anchored in the bay, (which is +called by the natives _Karakakooa_,) in thirteen fathoms water, over +a sandy bottom, and about a quarter of a mile from the N.E. shore. +In this situation, the S. point of the bay bore S. by W., and the +N. point W. 1/2 N. We moored with the stream-anchor and cable to the +northward, unbent the sails, and struck yards and top-masts. The ships +continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a +multitude of canoes. I had no where, in the course of my voyage, seen +so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. For, besides +those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was +covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round +the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the +singularity of this scene; and perhaps there were few on board who +now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern +passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our +having it in our power to revisit the _Sandwich Islands_, and to +enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed, in +many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by +Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Thus ends Captain Cook's journal of his proceedings, and +the visible satisfaction which pervades the concluding sentences, as +is noticed in the Biog. Brit., must strike the mind of every reader. +They indicate the high value which our navigator attached to this last +discovery, now so irrevocably, but so painfully, associated with the +honours of his name; whilst, in his unapprehending confidence, and the +wonted calmness of his style, we see the agency of that beneficent law +in our system, by which we are preserved ignorant of the evils that +every hour and moment of our time may bring over us. Nor ought we +to omit remarking as something peculiar, that Cook's allusion to the +present comfortable opinion and feelings of his associates on the +failure of their labours in the northern hemisphere, founded, no +doubt, on the general expression of satisfaction, serves as a material +aggravation, in the way of contrast, to our conceptions of their +subsequent distress and grief, under the calamity of his most +afflicting death.--E.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CAPTAIN KING'S JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURNING TO THE +SANDWICH ISLANDS.[1] + + +SECTION I. + +_Description of Karakakooa Bay.--Vast Concourse of the Natives.--Power +of the Chiefs over the inferior People.--Visit from Koah, a Priest and +Warrior.--The Morai at Kakooa described.--Ceremonies at the Landing +of Captain Cook.--Observatories erected.--Powerful Operation of the +Taboo.--Method of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates.--Society of +Priests discovered.--Their Hospitality and Munificence.--Reception of +Captain Cook.--Artifice of Koah.--Arrival of Terreoboo, King of the +Island.--Returned by Captain Cook._ + +[Footnote 1: The reader is informed once for all, that the notes to +the remainder of this voyage, to which no signature is attached, +are to be considered as forming a part of Captain King's own +publication.--E.] + +Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island of Owhyhee, +in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded +by two low points of land, at the distance of half a league, and +bearing S.S.E. and N.N.W. from each other. On the north point, which +is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa; and in the bottom +of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another +village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa; between them runs +a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea shore. On the south +side, the coast, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; +beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is +overspread with cultivated enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, +where the habitations of the natives are scattered in great numbers. +The shore, all round the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, +which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather, except at the +village of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, with a _morai_, +or burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of fresh water at +the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit +the ships, and lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, +we moored on the north side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, +Kowrowa bearing W.N.W. + +As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in +the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and +expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety +of wild and extravagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of +both ships were soon completely covered with them, and a multitude +of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming +round us in shoals, many of whom not finding room on board, remained +the whole day playing in the water. + +Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young +man, called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person of great +authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that +he was _Jakanee_[2] to the king of the island, who was at that time +engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return +within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached +him entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to +us in the management of his countrymen, as we had soon occasion to +experience. For we had not been long at anchor, when it was observed +that the Discovery had such a number of people hanging on one side, as +occasioned her to heel considerably; and that the men were unable to +keep off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, +being apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed out the +danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared +the ship of its encumbrances, and drove away the canoes that +surrounded her. + +[Footnote 2: We afterward met with several others of the same +denomination; but whether it be an office, or some degree of affinity, +we could never learn with certainty.] + +The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared from +this incident to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance +of it happened the same day on board the Resolution, where the crowd +being so great, as to impede the necessary business of the ship, we +were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of +their chiefs, who had likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. +The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he immediately +ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel; and we were not a little +surprised to see them jump overboard, without a moment's hesitation, +all except one man, who, loitering behind, and shewing some +unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms, and threw him +into the sea. + +Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, +and of countenances remarkably pleasing; Kaneena especially, whose +portrait Mr Webber has drawn, was one of the finest men I ever saw. +He was about six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with +lively, dark eyes; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. + +It has been already mentioned, that, during our long cruise off this +island, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairness and +honesty in their dealings, and had not shewn the slightest propensity +to theft, which appeared to us the more extraordinary, because those +with whom we had hitherto held any intercourse, were of the lowest +rank, either servants or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly +altered. The immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every part +of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering +without risk of discovery, but our inferiority in number held forth +a prospect of escaping with impunity in case of detection. Another +circumstance, to which we attributed this alteration in their +behaviour, was the presence and encouragement of their chiefs; +for, generally tracing the booty into the possession of some men +of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these +depredations were committed at their instigation. + +Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, +Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, +we were told, was a priest, and had been in his youth a distinguished +warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure, his eyes +exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous +scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the _ava_. Being led into +the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw +over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along +with him. Then stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a +small pig which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse +that lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently +repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many +circumstances, to be a sort of religious adoration. Their idols we +found always arrayed with red cloth, in the same manner as was done +to Captain Cook, and a small pig was their usual offering to the +_Eatooas_. Their speeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a +readiness and volubility that indicated them to be according to some +formulary. + +When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating +plentifully of what was set before him, but, like the rest of the +inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed +on to taste a second time our wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain +Cook, attended by Mr Bayly and myself, accompanied him on ashore. We +landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands +tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud +voice a short sentence, in which we could only distinguish the word +_Orono_.[3] The crowd, which had been collected on the shore, retired +at our approach; and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying +prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. + +[Footnote 3: Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the +natives of Owhyhee, but we could never learn its precise meaning. +Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, +lived in the heavens. We also found that it was a title belonging to a +personage of great rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty +much the Delai Lama of the Tartars, and the ecclesiastical emperor of +Japan.] + +Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain +Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this +fatal island, it will be necessary to describe the _morai_, situated, +as I have already mentioned, at the south side of the beach at +_Kakooa_. It was a square solid pile of stones, about forty yards +long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well +paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the sculls +of the captives, sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the +centre of the area, stood a ruinous old building of wood, connected +with a rail, on each side, by a stone wall, which divided the whole +space into two parts. On the side next the country were five poles, +upward of twenty feet high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold; +on the opposite side, toward the sea, stood two small houses, with a +covered communication. + +We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an easy ascent, +leading from the beach to the N.W. corner of the area. At the +entrance, we saw two large wooden images, with features violently +distorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form +inverted, rising from the top of their heads, the rest was without +form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall +young man, with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to the +images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by +Koah, they led us to that end of the _morai_ where the five poles were +fixed. At the foot of them were twelve images ranged in a semicircular +form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or table, +exactly resembling the _whatta_[4] of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid +hog, and under it pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, +plantains, and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the captain under +this stand, took down the hog, and held it toward him; and after +having a second time addressed him in a long speech, pronounced with +much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him +to the scaffolding, which they began to climb together, not without +great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming in solemn +procession, at the entrance of the top of the _morai_, ten men +carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced +a few paces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves; and Kaireekeea, +the young man above-mentioned, went to them and received the cloth, +carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the captain, and afterward +offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with the same +ceremony. + +[Footnote 4: See Captain Cook's former voyage.] + +Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, swathed +round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongst the +pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, +chanting sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately. This lasted +a considerable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and +the captain descended together. He then led him to the images before +mentioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, +snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in +the centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared +to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he +prostrated himself, and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the +same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole +of this ceremony. + +We were now led back into the other division of the _morai_, where +there was a space, ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet +below the level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook +was seated between two wooden idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, +whilst I was desired to support the other. At this time arrived a +second procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, some +bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached +us, Kaireekeea put himself at their head, and presenting the pig to +Captain Cook in the usual manner, began the same kind of chant as +before, his companions making regular responses. We observed, that, +after every response, their parts became gradually shorter, till, +toward the close, Kaireekeea's consisted of only two or three words, +which the rest answered by the word _orono_. + +When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter of an hour, +the natives sat down fronting us, and began to cut up the baked +hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts, whilst others +employed themselves in brewing the _ava_, which is done by chewing it, +in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took +part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it +in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, hands, +arms, and shoulders. The _ava_ was then handed round, and after we +had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog in +pieces, and to put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to +being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person, but Captain +Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not +swallow a morsel; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not +diminished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, +had chewed it for him. + +When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an end +to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the _morai_, after +distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron and other trifles, +with which they seemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted +us to the boats, repeating the same words as before. The people again +retired, and the few that remained, prostrated themselves as we passed +along the shore. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what +we had seen, and extremely well satisfied with the good disposition of +our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies with which +we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and +singularity, have been related at length, can only be the subject +of conjectures, and those uncertain and partial; they were, however, +without doubt, expressive of high respect on the part of the natives; +and, as far as related to the person of Captain Cook, they seemed +approaching to adoration. + +The next morning, I went on shore with a guard of eight marines, +including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the +observatory in such a situation as might best enable me to superintend +and protect the waterers, and the other working parties that were to +be on shore. As we were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this +purpose, in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready +to shew both his power and his good-will, offered to pull down some +houses that would have obstructed our observations. However, we +thought it proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet +potatoes adjoining to the _morai_, which was readily granted us; and +the priests, to prevent the intrusion of the natives, immediately +consecrated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which +it was enclosed. + +This sort of religious interdiction they call _taboo_, a word we heard +often repeated, during our stay amongst these islanders, and found +to be of very powerful and extensive operation. A more particular +explanation of it will be given in the general account of these +islands, under the article of religion; at present it is only +necessary to observe, that it procured us even more privacy than we +desired. No canoes ever presumed to land near us; the natives sat on +the wall, but none offered to come within the _tabooed_ space, till he +had obtained our permission. But though the men, at our request, would +come across the field with provisions, yet not all our endeavours +could prevail on the women to approach us. Presents were tried, but +without effect; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in +vain; we were invariably answered, that the _Eatooa_ and _Terreeoboo_ +(which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumstance +afforded no small matter of amusement to our friends on board, where +the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to +flock thither, obliged them almost every hour to clear the vessel, in +order to have room to do the necessary duties of the ship. On these +occasions, two or three hundred women were frequently made to jump +into the water at once, where they continued swimming and playing +about, till they could again procure admittance. + +From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us to attend +Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of the island, nothing +very material happened on board. The caulkers were set to work on +the sides of the ships, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and +repaired. The salting of hogs for sea-store was also a constant, +and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's attention. As the +success we met with in this experiment, during our present voyage, was +much more complete than it had been in any former attempt of the same +kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the +operation. + +It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flesh of +animals by salting in tropical climates, the progress of putrefaction +being so rapid, as not to allow time for the salt to take (as they +express it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of +the pickle. We do not find that experiments, relative to this subject, +have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In +his first trials, which were made in 1774, during his second voyage to +the Pacific Ocean, the success he met with, though very imperfect, was +yet sufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. +As the voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be +protracted a year beyond the time for which the ships had been +victualled, he was under the necessity of providing, by some such +means, for the subsistence of the crews, or of relinquishing +the further prosecution of his discoveries. He therefore lost no +opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event answered his most +sanguine expectations. + +The hogs which we made use of for this purpose, were of various sizes, +weighing from four to twelve stone.[5] The time of slaughtering was +always in the afternoon; and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and +the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight +pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out, and, in +the larger sort, the ribs also. Every piece then being carefully wiped +and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were +handed to the salters, whilst the flesh remained still warm. After +they had been well rubbed with salt, they were placed in a heap on a +stage raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with +the heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this situation they +remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and +examined, and the suspicious parts taken away. They were then put into +a tub of strong pickle, where they were always looked over once +or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the salt, which was +readily discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were immediately +taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces put to fresh pickle. +This, however, after the precautions before used, seldom happened. +After six days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and +being again slightly pressed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin +layer of salt between them. I brought home with me some barrels of +this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January, 1779, and was +tasted by several persons in England about Christmas, 1780, and found +perfectly sound and wholesome.[6] + +[Footnote 5: 14 lb.] + +[Footnote 6: Since these papers were prepared for the press, I have +been informed by Mr Vancouver, who was one of my midshipmen in the +Discovery, and was afterward appointed lieutenant of the Martin sloop +of war, that he tried the method here recommended, both with English +and Spanish pork, during a cruize on the Spanish Main, in the year +1782, and succeeded to the utmost of his expectations. He also +made the experiment at Jamaica with the beef served by the +victualling-office to the ships, but not with the same success, which +he attributes to the want of the necessary precautions in killing and +handling the beasts; to their being hung up and opened before they +had sufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-vessels were +exposed to the air, and the blood condensed before it had time to +empty itself, and to their being hard driven and bruised. He adds, +that having himself attended to the killing of an ox, which was +carefully taken on board the Martin, he salted a part of it, which, at +the end of the week, was found to have taken the salt completely, +and he has no doubt would have kept for any length of time; but the +experiment was not tried.] + +I shall now return to our transactions on shore at the observatory, +where we had not been long settled before we discovered, in our +neighbourhood, the habitation of a society of priests, whose regular +attendance at the _morai_ had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood +round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut +trees, which separated them from the beach and the rest of the +village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my +acquainting Captain Cook with these circumstances, he resolved to pay +them a visit; and, as he expected to be received in the same manner +as before, he brought Mr Webber with him to make a drawing of the +ceremony. + +On his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a sacred building +called _Harre-no-Orono_, or the house of _Orono_, and seated before +the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the same kind with +those on the _morai_. I was here again made to support one of his +arms; and, after wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by +twelve priests, made an offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. +The pig was then strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown +into the embers, and after the hair was singed off, it was again +presented, with a repetition of the chanting in the manner described. +The dead pig was then held for a short time under the captain's +nose, after which it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the +performers sat down. The _ava_ was then brewed, and handed round; a +fat hog, ready dressed, was brought in, and we were fed as before. + +During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain +Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of these priests, who went +before him, giving notice that the _Orono_ had landed, and ordering +the people to prostrate themselves. The same person, also, constantly +accompanied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a +wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives who +were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay +down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the +observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their +appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and presented them +with the usual solemnities. It was on these occasions that some of +the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an +offering to the _Orono_. When this was granted, they presented the +hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their +countenances, whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their +accustomed hymns. + +The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to mere +ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received from them, every day, +a constant supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for our +subsistence; and several canoes, loaded with provisions, were sent to +the ships with the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or +even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents were made +with a regularity, more like the discharge of a religious duty, than +the effect of mere liberality; and when we enquired at whose charge +all this munificence was displayed, we were told, it was at the +expence of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and +grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was at that time absent attending the +king of the island. + +As every thing relating to the character and behaviour of this people +must be interesting to the reader, on account of the tragedy that was +afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we +had not always so much reason to be satisfied with the conduct of the +warrior chiefs, or _Earees_, as with that of the priests. In all our +dealings with the former, we found them sufficiently attentive to +their own interests; and besides their habit of stealing, which may +admit of some excuse, from the universality of the practice amongst +the islanders of these seas, they made use of other artifices +equally dishonourable. I shall only mention one instance, in which +we discovered, with regret, our friend Koah to be a party principally +concerned. As the chiefs, who brought us presents of hogs, were always +sent back handsomely rewarded, we had generally a greater supply than +we could make use of. On these occasions, Koah, who never failed in +his attendance on us, used to beg such as we did not want, and +they were always given to him. It one day happened, that a pig was +presented us by a man whom Koah himself introduced as a chief, who was +desirous of paying his respects, and we recollected the pig to be +the same that had been given to Koah just before. This leading us to +suspect some trick, we found, on further enquiry, the pretended +chief to be an ordinary person; and on connecting this with other +circumstances, we had reason to suspect, that it was not the first +time we had been the dupes of the like imposition. + +Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we were a good deal +surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to put off from the +shore, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several +hours suspense, we learned that the bay was _tabooed_, and all +intercourse with us interdicted, on account of the arrival of +Terreeoboo. As we had not foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews +of both ships were obliged to pass the day without their usual supply +of vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by +threats and promises, to induce the natives to come along-side; and as +some of them were at last venturing to put off, a chief was observed +attempting to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over +his head, to make him desist, which had the desired effect, and +refreshments were soon after purchased, as usual. In the afternoon, +Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the ships in a private manner, +attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He +staid on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village +of Kowrowa. + +The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by +two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward the ships in +great state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first +canoe was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered +cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers; in the +second, came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his +brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were +busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered +with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner +with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a +black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a double row +of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of their features, +were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and +various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in +the centre-canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity; and, after +paddling round the ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, +they made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed.[7] + +[Footnote 7: The presents were made to Captain Cook after he went on +shore.] + +As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to +receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on +shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted +them into the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when the +king rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the captain's +shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet upon his +head, and a curious fan into his hand. He also spread at his feet five +or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest +value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with +sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the +ceremony was concluded by the king's exchanging names with Captain +Cook, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is +esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of priests, +with a venerable old personage at their head, now appeared, followed +by a long train, of men leading large hogs, and others carrying +plantains, sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and gestures of +Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the +priests before mentioned, on whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He +had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain +Cook's shoulders, and afterwards presented him with a small pig in +the usual form. A seat was then made for him, next to the king, after +which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and +the chiefs joining in the responses. + +I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the same infirm +and emaciated old man, that came on board the Resolution when we were +off the north-east side of the island of Mowee; and we soon discovered +amongst his attendants, most of the persons who at that time had +remained with us all night. Of this number were the two younger sons +of the king, the eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and +his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at first we had some difficulty in +recollecting, his hair being plastered over with a dirty brown paste +and powder, which was no mean heightening to the most savage face I +ever beheld. + +As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over. Captain Cook +carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on +board the Resolution. They were received with every mark of respect +that could be shewn them; and Captain Cook, in return for the +feathered cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, and girt his own +hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half a dozen old chiefs, +remained on shore, and took up their abode at the priests' houses. +During all this time, not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives +either kept within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. Before +the king left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the +natives to come and trade with the ships as usual; but the women, for +what reason we could not learn, still continued under the effects of +the _taboo_; that is, were forbidden to stir from home, or to have any +communication with us. + + +SECTION II. + +_Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives.--Their +Hospitality.--Propensity to Theft.--Description of a Boxing +Match.--Death of one of our Seamen.--Behaviour of the Priests at +his funeral.--The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchased.--The +Natives inquisitive about our Departure.--Their Opinion about the +Design of our Voyage.--Magnificent Presents of Terreeoboo to Captain +Cook.--The Ships leave the Island.--The Resolution damaged in a Gale, +and obliged to return._ + +The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having taken away +every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate to trust ourselves +amongst them at all times, and in all situations. The officers of both +ships went daily up the country, in small parties, or even singly, +and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endless to +recount all the instances of kindness and civility which we received +upon those occasions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, +eager to offer every assistance in their power, and highly gratified, +if their services were accepted. Various little arts were practised to +attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran +before, as we walked through their villages, and stopped us at every +opening, where there was room to form a group for dancing. At one +time, we were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some +other refreshment, under the shade of their huts; at another, we were +seated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their skill and +agility to amuse us with songs and dances. + +The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hospitality was, +however, frequently interrupted by the propensity to stealing, which +they have in common with all the other islanders of these seas. This +circumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged us +to have recourse to acts of severity, which we should willingly have +avoided, if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for +them. Some of their most expert swimmers were one day discovered under +the ships, drawing out the filling nails of the sheathing, which +they performed very dexterously by means of a short stick, with a +flint-stone fixed in the end of it. To put a stop to this practice, +which endangered the very existence of the vessels, we at first fired +small shot at the offenders; but they easily got out of our reach by +diving under the ship's bottom. It was therefore found necessary to +make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Discovery. + +About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both ships, set out +on an excursion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of +examining its natural productions. An account of this journey will be +given in a subsequent part of our narrative. It is, therefore, +only necessary at present to observe, that it afforded Kaoo a fresh +opportunity of shewing his attention and generosity. For as soon as he +was informed of their departure, he sent a large supply of provisions +after them, together with orders, that the inhabitants of the country +through which they were to pass, should give them every assistance in +their power. And, to complete the delicacy and disinterestedness of +his conduct, even the people he employed could not be prevailed on +to accept the smallest present. After remaining out six days, our +officers returned, without having been able to penetrate above twenty +miles into the island, partly from want of proper guides, and partly +from the impracticability of the country. + +The head of the Resolution's rudder being found exceedingly shaken, +and most of the pintles either loose or broken, it was unhung, and +sent on shore on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough +repair. At the same time the carpenters were sent into the country, +under conduct of some of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the head +rail-work, which was also entirely decayed and rotten. + +On the 28th, Captain Clerke, whose ill health confined him, for the +most part, on board, paid Terreeoboo, his first visit, at his hut on +shore. He was received with the same formalities as were observed +with Captain Cook; and, on his coming away, though the visit was quite +unexpected, he received a present of thirty large hogs, and as much +fruit and roots as his crew could consume in a week. + +As we had not yet seen any thing of their sports or athletic +exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our officers, +entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though these games +were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and magnificence, +as in the skill and powers of the combatants, to what we had seen +exhibited at the Friendly Islands; yet, as they differed in some +particulars, it may not be improper to give a short account of them. +We found a vast concourse of people assembled on a level spot of +ground, at a little distance from our tents. A long space was left +vacant in the midst of them, at the upper end of which sat the judges, +under three standards, from which hung slips of cloth of various +colours, the skins of two wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches +of feathers. When the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given +by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came +forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing +their hands along the soles. As they approached, they frequently +eyed each other from head to foot, in a contemptuous manner, casting +several arch looks at the spectators, straining their muscles, and +using a variety of affected gestures. Being advanced within reach of +each other, they stood with both arms held out straight before their +faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They struck, in what +appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm; +made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an +inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly +decided; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by +accident, he was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed +his triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was +intended, a loud laugh among the spectators. He then waited for a +second antagonist, and, if again victorious, for a third, till he +was at last, in his turn, defeated. A singular rule observed in these +combats is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person +may step in, and choose either of them for his antagonist, when the +other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each +other in this manner, before the match was settled. When the combat +proved longer than usual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs +generally stepped in, and ended it by putting a stick between the +combatants. The same good humour was preserved throughout, which we +before so much admired in the Friendly Islanders. As these games were +given at our desire, we found it universally expected that we should +have borne our part in them; but our people, though much pressed by +the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full +well the blows they got at the Friendly Islands. + +This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew; an event +which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very +rare amongst us. He was an old man, and much respected on account of +his attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine +twenty-one years; after which, he entered as a seaman on board the +Resolution in 1772, and served with. Captain Cook in his voyage +toward the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich +hospital, through the captain's interest, at the same time with +himself; and being resolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his +benefactor, he also quitted it along with him, on his being appointed +to the command of the present expedition. During the voyage, he had +been frequently subject to slight fevers, and was a convalescent when +we came into the bay, where, being sent on shore for a few days, +he conceived himself perfectly recovered, and, at his own desire, +returned on board; but the day following, he had a paralytic stroke, +which in two days more carried him off. + +At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on the +_morai_, and the ceremony was performed with as much solemnity as our +situation permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were spectators, and +preserved the most profound silence and attention, whilst the service +was reading. When we began to fill up the grave, they approached +it with great reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and +plantains; and, for three nights afterward, they surrounded it, +sacrificing hogs, and performing their usual ceremonies of hymns and +prayers, which continued till day-break. + +At the head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed upon it +a square piece of board, on which was inscribed the name of the +deceased, his age, and the day of his death. This they promised not to +remove; and we have no doubt but that it will be suffered to remain as +long as the frail materials of which it is made will permit. + +The ships being in great want of fuel, the captain desired me, on the +2d of February, to treat with the priests, for the purchase of the +rail that surrounded the top of the _morai_. I must confess, I had, +at first, some doubt about the decency of this proposal, and was +apprehensive, that even the bare mention of it might be considered, by +them, as a piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself +mistaken. Not the smallest surprise was expressed at the application, +and the wood was readily given, even without stipulating for any thing +in return. Whilst the sailors were taking it away, I observed one of +them carrying off a carved image; and, on farther enquiry, I found +that they had conveyed to the boats the whole semicircle.[1] Though +this was done in the presence of the natives, who had not shewn any +mark of resentment at it, but had even assisted them in the removal. +I thought it proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very +indifferent about the matter, and only desired, that we would restore +the centre image I have mentioned before, which he carried into one of +the priests houses. + +[Footnote 1: See description of the _morai_ in the preceding Section.] + +Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been very inquisitive +about the time of our departure. This circumstance had excited in me a +great curiosity to know what opinion this people had formed of us, and +what were their ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. +I took some pains to satisfy myself on these points; but could never +learn any thing farther, than that they imagined we came from some +country where provisions had failed; and that our visit to them was +merely for the purpose of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre +appearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we sat +down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase, +and carry off, as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to +such a conclusion. To these may be added, a circumstance which puzzled +them exceedingly, our having no women with us; together with our quiet +conduct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous enough to see them +stroking the sides, and patting the bellies of the sailors, (who were +certainly much improved in the sleekness of their looks during our +short stay in the island), and telling them, partly by signs, and +partly by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would +come again the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able to +supply their wants.[2] We had now been sixteen days in the bay; and if +our enormous consumption of hogs and vegetables be considered, it need +not be wondered that they should wish to see us take our leave. It +is very probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view in his +enquiries at present, than a desire of making sufficient preparation +for dismissing us with presents suitable to the respect and kindness +with which he had received us. For, on our telling him we should +leave the island on the next day but one, we observed, that a sort of +proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require +the people to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to +present to the _Orono_, on his departure. + +[Footnote 2: Let the reader keep this intimation in mind, when he +comes to judge of the melancholy transactions which issued in the +death of Cook. It is most clear, that these people were disposed to +be on good terms with their visitors; but that they were equally +sensible, on the other hand, of the burden which so many half-starved +guests had imposed on their hospitality. Even this, however, it would +seem, they were willing to bear, provided only they had had time to +make arrangements to do so, in a manner consistent with their own +notions of good cheer. It is perfectly easy then to understand, that +when, instead of the necessary absence of the strangers till the next +season of plenty, there elapsed a few days only, as we shall find, it +was impossible for them to form any other conception of the nature +or object of the visit, than what served to give a very different +direction to their feelings. And yet perhaps we shall be induced to +believe, that all their surprise and uneasiness would have quietly +subsided, if an unfortunate, and, in fact, merely partial altercation +had not excited it beyond its original intensity, and produced a +momentary determination to get rid by any means of such troublesome +encroachers.--E.] + +We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of +one of the natives. He held in his hand an instrument, of the sort +described in the last volume; some bits of sea-weed were tied round +his neck, and round each leg a piece of strong netting, about nine +inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loosely +fastened in rows. His style of dancing was entirely burlesque, and +accompanied with strange grimaces, and pantomimical distortions of +the face, which, though at times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet, on the +whole, was without much meaning or expression. Mr Webber thought it +worth his while to make a drawing of this person, as exhibiting a +tolerable specimen of the natives; the manner in which the _maro_ +is tied; the figure of the instrument before mentioned, and of the +ornaments round the legs, which, at other times, we also saw used by +their dancers. + +In the evening, we were again entertained with wrestling and +boxing-matches; and we displayed, in return, the few fireworks we had +left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration +of these islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our great +superiority, than an exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already +described the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Hapaee; +and though the present was, in every respect, infinitely inferior, yet +the astonishment of the natives was not less. + +I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both ships, had +been sent up the country, to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the +Resolution. This was the third day since their departure; and having +received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for +their safety. We were communicating our apprehensions to old Kaoo, who +appeared as much concerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures +with him, for sending after them, when they arrived all safe. They had +been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, +before they met with trees fit for their purpose; and it was this +circumstance, together with the badness of the roads, and the +difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained them so +long. They spoke in high terms of their guides, who both supplied them +with provisions, and guarded their tools with the utmost fidelity. + +The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain +Cook and myself to attend him on the 3d, to the place where Kaoo +resided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of +cloth; a vast quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres +of cocoa-nut husks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces +of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little +distance from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables, of every +kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. At first, we imagined +the whole to be intended as a present for us, till Kaireekeea informed +me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people of that district +to the king; and, accordingly, as soon as we were seated, they +brought all the bundles, and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet; +spreading out the cloth, and displaying the feathers, and iron-ware, +before him. The king seemed much pleased with this mark of their duty; +and having selected about a third part of the iron-ware, the same +proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, these were set +aside, by themselves; and the remainder of the cloth, together with +all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward presented to Captain Cook +and myself. We were astonished at the value and magnitude of this +present, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had seen, +either at the Friendly or Society Islands. Boats were immediately sent +to carry them on board; the large hogs were picked out, to be salted +for sea-store; and upward of thirty smaller pigs, and the vegetables, +were divided between the two crews. + +The same day, we quitted the _morai_, and got the tents and +astronomical instruments on board. The charm of the _taboo_ was now +removed; and we had no sooner left the place, than the natives rushed +in, and searched eagerly about, in expectation of finding something +of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the +last on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came +crowding about me, and having made me sit down by them, began to +lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was +able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a +trifling occurrence, in which I was principally concerned. Having had +the command of the party on shore, during the whole time w were in +the bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the +natives, and of being better known to them, than those whose duty +required them to be generally on board. As I had every reason to be +satisfied with their kindness, in general, so I cannot too often, nor +too particularly, mention the unbounded and constant friendship of +their priests. + +On my part, I spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and +gain their esteem; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, +that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was strongly +solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the most flattering +kind. When I excused myself, by saying, that Captain Cook would +not give his consent, they proposed, that I should retire into the +mountains, where, they said, they would conceal me, till after the +departure of the ships; and on my farther assuring them, that the +captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo +waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a formal +request, that I might be left behind. The captain, to avoid giving a +positive refusal, to an offer so kindly intended, told them, that he +could not part with me at that time, but that he should return to the +island next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter to +their satisfaction. + +Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and sailed out of the +bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great +number of canoes. Captain Cook's design was to finish the survey of +Owhyhee, before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with +a road better sheltered than the bay we had just left; and in case of +not succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the south-east part +of Mowee, where the natives informed us we should find an excellent +harbour. + +We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our +progress to the northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great +number of the natives in their canoes; and Terreeoboo gave a fresh +proof of his friendship to Captain Cook, by a large present of hogs +and vegetables, that was sent after him. + +In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, we made +some way to the northward; and in the morning of the 6th, having +passed the westernmost point of the island, we found ourselves abreast +of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes +that this bay would furnish us with a safe and commodious harbour, +as we saw, to the north-east, several fine streams of water, and the +whole had the appearance of being well sheltered. These observations +agreeing with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain +Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into +Britannee, the pinnace was hoisted out, and the master, with Britannee +for his guide, was sent to examine the bay, whilst the ships worked up +after them. + +In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind, +that blew off the land, were so violent, as to make it necessary to +take in all the sails, and bring-to, under the mizen stay-sail. All +the canoes left us, at the beginning of the gale; and Mr Bligh, on +his return, had the satisfaction of saving an old woman, and two men, +whose canoe had been overset by the violence of the wind, as they were +endeavouring to gain the shore. Besides these distressed people, we +had a great many women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in +their hurry to shift for themselves. + +The master reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only +village he saw, on the north side of the bay, where he was directed +to some wells of water; but found they would by no means answer our +purpose; that he afterward proceeded farther into the bay, which +runs inland to a great depth, and stretches toward the foot of a +very conspicuous high mountain, situated on the north-west end of the +island; but that, instead of meeting with safe anchorage, as Britannee +had taught him to expect, he found the shores low and rocky, and a +flat bed of coral rocks running along the coast, and extending upward +of a mile from the land; on the outside of which the depth of water +was twenty fathoms, over a sandy bottom; and that, in the mean time, +Britannee had contrived to slip away, being afraid of returning, as we +imagined, because his information had not proved true and successful. + +In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made sail; +but, about midnight, it blew so violently, as to split both the fore +and main topsails. On the morning of the 7th, we bent fresh sails, +and had fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by +observation, was 20 deg. 1' N., the W. point of the island bearing S., 7 deg. +E., and the N.W. point N., 38 deg. E. As we were, at this time, four or +five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, none +of the canoes would venture out, so that our guests were obliged to +remain with us, much, indeed, to their dissatisfaction; for they were +all sea-sick, and many of them had left young children behind them. + +In the afternoon, though the weather was still squally, we stood in +for the land, and being about three leagues from it, we saw a canoe, +with two men paddling towards us, which we immediately conjectured +had been driven off the shore by the late boisterous weather; and +therefore stopped the ship's way, in order to take them in. These poor +wretches were so entirely exhausted with fatigue, that had not one of +the natives on board, observing their weakness, jumped into the canoe +to their assistance, they would scarcely have been able to fasten it +to the rope we had thrown out for that purpose. It was with difficulty +we got them up the ship's side, together with a child, about four +years old, which they had lashed under the thwarts of the canoe, where +it had lain with only its head above water. They told us, they had +left the shore the morning before, and had been from that time +without food or water. The usual precautions were taken in giving +them victuals; and the child being committed to the care of one of the +women, we found them all next morning perfectly recovered. + +At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to double reef +the topsails, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at +day-break, we found that the foremast had again given way, the fishes, +which were put on the head, in King George's, or Nootka Sound, on the +coast of America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, as +to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to +unstep the mast. In this difficulty, Captain Cook was for some time in +doubt, whether he should run the chance of meeting with a harbour in +the islands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not +so remarkably commodious, in any respect, but that a better might +probably be expected, both for the purpose of repairing the masts, +and for procuring refreshments, of which, it was imagined, that the +neighbourhood of Karakakooa had been already pretty well drained. On +the other hand, it was considered as too great a risk to leave a +place that was tolerably sheltered, and which, once left, could not be +regained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the failure of +which might, perhaps, have left us without resource. + +We, therefore, continued standing on toward the land, in order to give +the natives an opportunity of releasing their friends on board from +their confinement; and at noon, being within a mile of the shore, a +few canoes came off to us, but so crowded with people, that there was +not room in them for any of our guests; we therefore hoisted out the +pinnace to carry them on shore; and the master, who went with them, +had directions to examine the south coasts of the bay for water; but +returned, without finding any. + +The winds being variable, and a current setting strong to the +northward, we made but little progress in our return; and at eight +o'clock in the evening of the 9th, it began to blow very hard from the +south-east, which obliged us to close reef the topsails; and at two in +the morning of the 10th, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close +in with the breakers, that lie to the northward of the west point +of Owhyhee. We had just room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired +several guns to apprise the Discovery of the danger. + +In the forenoon the weather was more moderate, and a few canoes came +off to us; from which we learnt that the late storms had done much +mischief, and that several large canoes had been lost. During the +remainder of the day we kept beating to windward; and, before night, +we were within a mile of the bay; but, not choosing to run on while +it was dark, we stood off and on till day-light next morning, when we +dropt anchor nearly in the same place as before. + + +SECTION III. + +_Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to Karakakooa +Bay.--Theft on Board the Discovery and its Consequences.--The +Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her.--Captain Cook's +Observations on the Occasion.--Attempt at the Observatory.--The Cutter +of the Discovery stolen.--Measures taken by Captain Cook for its +Recovery.--Goes on Shore to invite the King on Board--The King being +stopped by his Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises.--News arrives of +one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People.--Ferment on this +Occasion.--One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is shot by +him.--General Attack by the Natives.--Death of Captain Cook. Account +of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his Character._[1] + +[Footnote 1: Every reader must feel so deeply interested in the +subject of this section, that he will naturally desire to possess +every information as to all the facts and circumstances in which it +was involved. Captain King's narrative, it may be conceived, is +likely to have every claim to implicit confidence, and to require no +additional statement in order to the most satisfactory conviction +of every mind. Such an opinion is only partially correct; and it is +evident, that the latter assertion is not a necessary inference from +the former. The narrative may be imperfect, though quite consistent +with truth, so far as it goes; and perhaps it cannot be carefully +read, without producing an impression somewhat unfavourable to +the notion of its completeness. This might be pointed out, as we +proceeded, in the usual manner of notes. But a moment's reflection +will suggest, that such interference in a case of the kind would prove +destructive of the general and proper effect of the relation, and +at the same time appear unjust towards the describer. A much better +method, and one more likely to obtain attention, presents itself. That +is, to insert the circumstantial narrative of the whole transaction, +which was drawn up by Mr Samwell, surgeon of the Discovery, and +communicated, with the highest approbation and credit, in the +Biographia Britannica, after having been separately published, by the +advice of the editor of that work, for two years, without experiencing +any objection or a single impeachment. This, therefore, will be given +at the end of the section; and will be found so extremely interesting, +as to justify its reception in an entire form. Its length, however, +and minuteness, in addition to reasons already mentioned, will +preclude both room and occasion for any other notice of the +subject.--E.] + +We were employed the whole of the 11th, and part of the 12th, in +getting out the foremast, and sending it with the carpenters, on +shore. Besides the damage which the head of the mast had sustained, we +found the heel exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle +of it, capable of holding four or five cocoa nuts. It was not, +however, thought necessary to shorten it; and, fortunately, the logs +of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks, were +found fit to replace the sprung part of the fishes. As these repairs +were likely to take up several days, Mr Bayly and myself got the +astronomical apparatus on shore, and pitched our tents on the _morai_; +having with us a guard of a corporal and six marines. We renewed +our friendly correspondence with the priests, who, for the greater +security of the workmen and their tools, _tabooed_ the place where the +mast lay, sticking their wands round it, as before. The sail-makers +were also sent on shore, to repair the damages which had taken place +in their department during the late gales. They were lodged in a house +adjoining to the _morai_ that was lent us by the priests. Such were +our arrangements on shore. I shall now proceed to the account of those +other transactions with the natives, which led, by degrees, to the +fatal catastrophe of the 14th. + +Upon coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our reception very +different from what it had been on our first arrival; no shouts, no +bustle, no confusion; but a solitary bay, with only here and there a +canoe, stealing close along the shore. The impulse of curiosity, which +had before operated to so great a degree, might now indeed be supposed +to have ceased; but the hospitable treatment we had invariably met +with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us some reason +to expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy +on our return. + +We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of this +extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by +the return of a boat, which had been sent on shore, and brought us +word, that Terreeoboo was absent, and had left the bay under the +_taboo_. Though this account appeared very satisfactory to most of +us, yet others were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by +subsequent events, to imagine, that there was something, at this +time, very suspicious in the behaviour of the natives; and that the +interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the king's +absence, was only to give him time to consult with his chiefs in what +manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions were +well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we +were never able to ascertain. For, though it is not improbable that +our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent cause, and the +necessity of which we afterward found it very difficult to make them +comprehend, might occasion some alarm; yet the unsuspicious conduct +of Terreeoboo, who, on his supposed arrival, the next morning, came +immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the +natives to their former friendly intercourse with us, are strong +proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended any change of conduct. + +In support of this opinion, I may add the account of another accident, +precisely of the same kind which happened to us on our first visit, +the day before the arrival of the king. A native had sold a hog on +board the Resolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, +passing by advised the man not to part with the hog, without an +advanced price. For this he was sharply spoken to, and pushed away; +and the _taboo_ being soon after laid on the bay, we had at first +no doubt but that it was in consequence of the offence given to the +chief. Both these accidents serve to shew, how very difficult it is +to draw any certain conclusion from the actions of people, with whose +customs, as well as language, we are so imperfectly acquainted; at the +same time, some idea may be formed from them, of the difficulties, +at the first view, perhaps, not very apparent, which those have to +encounter, who, in all their transactions with these strangers, have +to steer their course amidst so much uncertainty, where a trifling +error may be attended with even the most fatal consequences. However +true or false our conjectures may be, things went on in their usual +quiet course till the afternoon of the 13th. + +Toward the evening of that day, the officer, who commanded the +watering-party of the Discovery, came to inform me, that several +chiefs had assembled at the well near the beach, driving away the +natives, whom he had hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the +casks to the shore. He told me, at the same time, that he thought +their behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they meant to give him +some farther disturbance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine +along with him, but suffered him to take only his side-arms. In a +short time the officer returned, and, on his acquainting me, that +the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were grown very +tumultuous I went myself to the spot, attended by a marine, with his +musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones; and, on my +speaking to some of the chiefs, the mob were driven away, and those +who chose it were suffered to assist in filling the casks. Having left +things quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming on +shore in the pinnace. I related to him what had just passed; and he +ordered me, in case of their beginning to throw stones, or behave +insolently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accordingly +gave orders to the corporal, to have the pieces of the sentinels +loaded with ball, instead of small shot. + +Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued +fire of muskets from the Discovery, which we observed to be directed +at a canoe that we saw paddling toward the shore in great haste, +pursued by one of our small boats. We immediately concluded that the +firing was in consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered +me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the +people as they came on shore. Accordingly, we ran toward the place +where we supposed the canoe would land, but were too late; the people +having quitted it, and made their escape into the country before our +arrival. + +We were at this time ignorant that the goods had been already +restored; and as we thought it probable, from the circumstances we had +at first observed, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to +relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having, therefore, enquired +of the natives, which way the people had fled, we followed them till +it was near dark, when, judging ourselves to be about three miles from +the tents, and suspecting that the natives, who frequently encouraged +us in the pursuit, were amusing us with false information, we thought +it in vain to continue our search any longer, and returned to the +beach. + +During our absence, a difference of a more serious and unpleasant +nature had happened. The officer, who had been sent in the small boat, +and was returning on board, with the goods which had been restored, +observing Captain Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, +thought it his duty to seize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the +shore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Pareea, who, arriving +at the same moment from on board the Discovery, claimed his property, +with many protestations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give +it up, and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting +for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea was knocked down, +by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. The natives, who were +collected about the spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, +immediately attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as +forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and swim off to a +rock, at some distance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately +ransacked by the islanders; and, but for the timely interposition of +Pareea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at +the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having +driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people, that they might +come and take possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour +to get back the things which had been, taken out of it. After their +departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a midshipman's cap, and +some other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent +concern at what had happened, asked, if the Orono would kill him, and +whether he would permit him to come on board the next day? On being +assured that he would be well received, he joined noses (as their +custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship, and paddled over +to the village of Kowrowa. + +When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he expressed much +uneasiness at it; and, as we were returning on board, "I am afraid," +said he, "that these people will oblige me to use some violent +measures; for," he added, "they must not be left to imagine that they +have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take +any steps this evening, he contented himself with giving orders, that +every man and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the +ship. As soon us this order was executed, I returned on shore; and our +former confidence in the natives being now much abated, by the events +of the day, I posted a double guard on the _morai_, with orders to +call me, if they saw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven +o'clock, five islanders were observed creeping round the bottom of +the _morai_; they seemed very cautious in approaching us; and at last, +finding themselves discovered, retired out of sight. About midnight, +one of them venturing up close to the observatory, the sentinel fired +over him; on which the men, fled, and we passed the remainder of the +night without farther disturbance. + +Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Resolution for +the time-keeper; and, in my way, was hailed by the Discovery, and +informed, that their cutter had been stolen, during the night, from +the buoy where it was moored. + +When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook +loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I was relating to him +what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me, with some +eagerness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, +and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been +his usual practice, whenever any thing of consequence was lost at +any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the +principal _Erees_, on board, and to keep them as hostages, till it was +restored. This method, which had been always attended with success, +he meant to pursue on the present occasion; and, at the same time, had +given orders to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the +bay, with an intention of seizing and destroying them, if he could not +recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly, the boats of both +ships, well manned and armed, were stationed across the bay; and, +before I left the ship, some great guns had been fired at two large +canoes that were attempting to make their escape. + +It was between seven and eight o'clock when we quitted the ship +together; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr Phillips and nine +marines with him; and myself in the small boat. The last orders I +received from him, were, to quiet the minds of the natives on our +side of the bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt; to keep my +people together, and to be on my guard. We then parted; the captain +went toward Kowrowa, where the king resided; and I proceeded to the +beach. My first care, on going ashore, was to give strict orders to +the marines to remain within the tent; to load their pieces with ball, +and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old +Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them, as well as I could, the +object of the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed +them. I found that they had already heard of the cutter's being +stolen; and I assured them, that though Captain Cook was resolved to +recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and +the people of the village on our side, need not be under the smallest +apprehension of suffering any evil from us. I desired the priests to +explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to +continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great earnestness, +if Terreeoboo was to be hurt; I assured him he was not; and both, +he and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with this +assurance. + +In the mean time, Captain Cook having called off the launch, which was +stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, +proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. +He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with +the usual marks of respect; the people prostrating themselves before +him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding +that there was no suspicion of his design, his next step was to +enquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his sons, who had been his +constant guests on board the Resolution. In a short time, the boys +returned, along with the natives, who had been sent in search of +them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king +had slept. They found the old man just awoke from sleep; and, after +a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain +Cook was convinced that he was in no wise privy to it, he invited him +to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. To +this proposal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to +accompany him. + +Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already +in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the +water-side, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kabareea, the mother +of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, +and, with many tears and entreaties, besought him not to go on board. +At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of +him, and, insisting that he should go no farther, forced him to sit +down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the +shore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, +and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round +Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieutenant of +marines, observing that his men were huddled close together in the +crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms, if any occasion should +require it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks, +close to the waters edge; and the crowd readily making way for them +to pass they were drawn up in a line, at the distance of about thirty +yards from the place where the king was sitting. + +All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest +marks of terror and dejection in his countenance; Captain Cook, +not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on shore, +continuing to urge him, in the most pressing manner, to proceed; +whilst, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to +follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at first +with prayers and entreaties, but afterward had recourse to force and +violence, and insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Cook, +therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and +that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off without +bloodshed, at last gave up the point; observing to Mr Phillips, that +it would be impossible to compel him to go on board, without the risk +of killing a great number of the inhabitants. + +Though the enterprise, which had carried Captain Cook on shore, had +now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have +been in the least danger, till an accident happened which gave a fatal +turn to the affair. The boats, which had been stationed across the +bay, having fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, +unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his +death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, just as he had +left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment +it occasioned was very conspicuous; the women and children were +immediately sent off; and the men put on their war-mats, and armed +themselves with spears and stones. One of the natives, having in his +hands a stone, and a long iron pike, (which they call a _pahooa_,) +came up to the captain, flourishing his weapon, by way of defiance, +and threatening to throw the stone. The captain desired him to desist; +but the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length provoked to +fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot +were not able to penetrate, this had no other effect than to irritate +and encourage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines; and one +of the _Erees_ attempted to stab Mr Phillips with his _pahooa_, but +failed in the attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt end +of his musket. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with +ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general attack +with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of +musketry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The islanders, +contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire with great +firmness; and, before the marines had time to reload, they broke in +upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of +the utmost horror and confusion. + +Four of the marines were cut off among the rocks in their retreat, and +fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy; three more were dangerously +wounded; and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the +shoulders with a _pahooa_, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot +the man who had wounded him, just as he was going to repeat his blow. +Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was +standing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to cease +firing, and to pull in. If it be true, as some of those who were +present have imagined, that the marines and boatmen had fired without +his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any further +bloodshed, it is not improbable, that his humanity, on this occasion, +proved fatal to him: For it was remarked, that whilst he faced the +natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that having +turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the +back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing him fall, the +islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged +on shore, and surrounded, by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out +of each other's hands, shewed a savage eagerness to have a share in +his destruction. + +Thus fell our great and excellent commander. After a life of so much +distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards +himself, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the +great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather +removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the acquisition of +glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by those who had +so long found their general security in his skill and conduct, and +every consolation, under their hardships, in his tenderness and +humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe; +much less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were +struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so +dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The reader will not be displeased +to turn from so sad a scene, to the contemplation of his character and +virtues, whilst I am paying my last tribute to the memory of a +dear and honoured friend, in a short history of his life and public +services. + +Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkshire, on the 27th +of October, 1728; and, at an early age, was put apprentice to a +shopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His natural inclination not +having been consulted on this occasion, he soon quitted the counter +from disgust, and bound himself, for nine years, to the master of a +vessel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war, in 1755, +he entered into the king's service, on board the Eagle, at that time +commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir Hugh Palliser, who +soon discovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. + +In the year 1758, we find him master of the Northumberland, the +flag-ship of Lord Colville, who had then the command of the squadron +stationed on the coast of America. It was here, as I have often heard +him say, that, during a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied +himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any other +assistance than what a few books, and his own industry, afforded him. +At the same time that he thus found means to cultivate and improve +his mind, and to supply the deficiencies of an early education, he was +engaged in most of the busy and active scenes of the war in America. +At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge +the execution of services of the first importance in the naval +department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency; +conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham; examined the +passage, and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in +proceeding up the river. The courage and address with which he +acquitted himself in these services, gained him the warm friendship of +Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronize him +during the rest of their lives, with the greatest zeal and affection. +At the conclusion of the war, he was appointed, through the +recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Palliser, to survey the +Gulf of St Laurence and the coasts of Newfoundland. In this employment +he continued till the year 1767, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward +Hawke to command an expedition to the South Seas, for the purpose of +observing the transit of Venus, and prosecuting discoveries in that +part of the globe. From this period, as his services are too well +known to require a recital here, so his reputation has proportionably +advanced to a height too great to be affected by my panegyrick. +Indeed, he appears to have been most eminently and peculiarly +qualified for this species of enterprise. The earliest habits of his +life, the course of his services, and the constant application of +his mind, all conspired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of +professional knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few. + +The constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable +of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without +difficulty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance +in him was scarcely a virtue; so great was the indifference with which +be submitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind +were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His +understanding was strong and perspicuous. His judgment, in whatever +related to the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs +were bold and manly; and both in the conception, and in the mode of +execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage +was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable presence of +mind in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. +His temper might, perhaps, have been justly blamed, as subject to +hastiness and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition +the most benevolent and humane. + +Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its most +distinguishing feature was, that unremitting perseverance in the +pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the opposition +of dangers, and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the +want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in +which he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were never in the +least abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment; +even those intervals of recreation, which sometimes unavoidably +occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons, who +have experienced the fatigues of service, will readily excuse, were +submitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could +not be employed in making further provision for the more effectual +prosecution of his designs. + +It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in which these +qualities were displayed, during the great and important enterprises +in which he was engaged. I shall content myself with stating the +result of those services, under the two principal heads to which they +maybe referred, those of geography and navigation, placing each in a +separate and distinct point of view. + +Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from the labours of +a single man, than geography has done from those of Captain Cook. In +his first voyage to the South Seas, he discovered the Society Islands; +determined the insularity of New Zealand; discovered the straits which +separate the two islands, and are called after his name; and made a +complete survey of both. He afterward explored the eastern coast of +New Holland, hitherto unknown; an extent of twenty seven degrees of +latitude, or upward of two thousand miles. + +In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem of a southern +continent, having traversed that hemisphere, between the latitudes +of 40 deg. and 70 deg., in such a manner as not to leave a possibility of its +existence, unless near the Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. +During this voyage be discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in +the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand; the island of Georgia; and +an unknown coast, which he named Sandwich Land, the _Thule_ of the +southern hemisphere; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he +settled the situations of the old, and made several new discoveries. + +But the voyage we are now relating is distinguished, above all the +rest, by the extent and importance of its discoveries. Besides several +smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, he discovered, to the north +of the equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Islands; which, +from their situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an +object of consequence, in the system of European navigation, than +any other discovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had +hitherto remained unknown of the western coast of America; from the +latitude of 43 deg. to 70 deg. N., containing an extent of three thousand five +hundred miles; ascertained the proximity of the two great continents +of Asia and America; passed the straits between them, and surveyed +the coast, on each side, to such a height of northern latitude, as to +demonstrate the impracticability of a passage in that hemisphere, from +the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, either by an eastern or a western +course. In short, if we except the sea of Amur, and the Japanese +Archipelago, which still remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has +completed the hydrography of the habitable globe. + +As a navigator, his services were not, perhaps, less splendid; +certainly not less important and meritorious. The method which he +discovered, and so successfully pursued, of preserving the health of +seamen, forms a new aera in navigation; and will transmit his name to +future ages amongst the friends and benefactors of mankind. + +Those who are conversant in naval history need not be told, at how +dear a rate the advantages which have been sought through the medium +of long voyages at sea, have always been purchased. That dreadful +disorder, which is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages +have marked the tracks of discoverers with circumstances almost too +shocking to relate, must, without exercising an unwarrantable tyranny +over the lives of our seamen, have proved an insuperable obstacle to +the prosecution of such enterprises. It was reserved for Captain +Cook to shew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be +protracted to the unusual length of three, or even four years, in +unknown regions, and under every change and rigour of climate, not +only without affecting the health, but even without diminishing the +probability of life in the smallest degree. The method he pursued has +been fully explained by himself in a paper which was read before +the Royal Society in the year 1776;[2] and whatever improvements the +experience of the present age has suggested, are mentioned in their +proper places. + +[Footnote 2: Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him on +this occasion.] + +With respect to his professional abilities, I shall leave them to +the judgment of those who are best acquainted with the nature of the +services in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge, that, +to have conducted three expeditions of so much danger and difficulty, +of so unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation, with +uniform and invariable success, must have required not only a +thorough and accurate knowledge of his business, but a powerful and +comprehensive genius, fruitful in resources, and equally ready in the +application of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the service +required. + +Having given the most faithful account I have been able to collect, +both from my own observation and the relations of others, of the death +of my ever-honoured friend, and also of his character and services, +I shall now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration of +posterity; accepting with, a melancholy satisfaction, the honour which +the loss of him hath procured me, of seeing my name joined with his; +and of testifying that affection and respect for his memory, which, +whilst he lived, it was no less my inclination, than my constant +study, to shew him.[3] + +[Footnote 3: We shall not easily find a more excellent specimen of +biographical eulogium than what Captain King has now given us. It does +justice to his subject--and this, be it remembered, is a merit of +the highest kind; and it does justice to himself, to his own sense +of propriety and principle, which, in the warmth of their friendship, +professed admirers are too apt to sacrifice at the shrine of departed +worth. The style is suitable to the sentiments, possessing a dignified +simplicity, and an apparent rectitude of aim, which it is impossible +not to consider, as, in a great degree, resulting from intimacy +with the truly great character whom it so forcibly recommends to our +esteem, and which, therefore, may be held as no mean illustration of +the efficacy of those virtues which so eminently adorned him. In this +respect, then, Cook was peculiarly fortunate, were there no other +record to which posterity might appeal--more fortunate, by much, +indeed, than many, whose lives have been blazoned by vain-glorious +historians. We appeal, therefore, to the feelings of every reader, +whether this very circumstance, so providentially directed towards the +perpetuity of his fame, does not indicate the real superiority of such +a man as Cook over the mass of vulgar conquerors, whom, unfortunately +for the world, it has been so much and so long the fashion to admire? +Shall we ever witness the time, when the wanton destroyers of our +species, under whatever name or trappings they vaunt themselves, shall +inherit the abhorrence and the curses of humanity; and when the only +claim to applause that shall be sanctioned, must be founded, like +that of our navigator, on the ability and the disposition to confer +benefits on society? It has often been regretted, as is said in the +Biographia Britannica, that a monument has not yet been erected to +the memory of Captain Cook in Westminster Abbey. The uneasiness is not +superfluous, in so far as the honour of our country is concerned, to +which, perhaps, his exertions have really contributed as much as those +of almost any individual whose greatness is there embalmed; but to the +reputation of Cook, a monument in Westminster Abbey, we agree with +the work alluded to, would be of little or no consequence. "His fame +stands upon a wider base, and will survive the comparatively perishing +materials of brass, or stone, or marble. The name of Cook will be held +in honour, and recited with applause, so long as the records of human +events shall continue in the earth."--E. + +The following particulars, respecting the death of Captain Cook, +are taken from Mr Samwell's Narrative, as given in the Biographia +Britannica; to which, also, we are indebted for the most minute and +satisfactory account of this illustrious man ever yet published, and +to which, therefore, we refer the more inquisitive reader. + +"On the 6th of February, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the +next night, the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head +of her foremast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was +obliged to return to Keragegooah,[1] in order to have it repaired; for +we could find no other convenient harbour on the island. The same +gale had occasioned much distress among some canoes that had paid us a +visit from the shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, +was picked up by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the +men, having toiled hard all night in attempting to reach the land, +were so much exhausted that they could hardly mount the ship's side. +When they got upon the quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and +seemed much affected with the dangerous situation from which they had +escaped; but the little child appeared lively and cheerful. One of +the Resolution's boats was also so fortunate as to save a man and two +women, whose canoe had been upset by the violence of the waves. They +were brought on board, and, with the others, partook of the kindness +and humanity of Captain Cook. + +"On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles of +the harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appeared +many of our old acquaintance, who seemed to have come to welcome us +back. Among them was Coo,aha, a priest; he had brought a small pig +and some cocoa nuts in his hand, which, after having chaunted a +few sentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, +and hastened on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendly +ceremony before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day, +we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first +rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the +Discovery. His name was Ka,mea,mea: He was dressed in a very rich +feathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but would +part with it for nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, some +time before our departure, had preferred to every other article; for, +having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, they +began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea procured +nine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, he +and his attendants slept on board that night. + +"In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again in +Keragegooah bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing +the Resolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians, +because there were but few in the bay. On our departure, those +belonging to other parts had repaired to their several habitations, +and were again to collect from various quarters before we could +expect to be surrounded by such multitudes as we had once seen in that +harbour. In the afternoon, I walked about a mile into the country to +visit an Indian friend, who had, a few days before, come near twenty +miles, in a small canoe, to see me, while the ship lay becalmed. As +the canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on, I was +alarmed for the consequence; however, I had the pleasure to find that +my friend had escaped unhurt, though not without some difficulties. I +take notice of this short excursion, merely because it afforded me +an opportunity of observing that there appeared no change in the +disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that could +induce me to think that they were displeased with our return, or +jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, that +abundant good-nature, which had always characterised them, seemed +still to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance.[2] The +next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo by the +chiefs; a solemnity, it seems, that was requisite to be observed, +before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, after +his return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution, +attended by a large train, some of which bore the presents designed +for Captain Cook; who received him in his usual friendly manner, and +gave him several articles in return. This amicable ceremony being +settled, the taboo was dissolved; matters went on in the usual train; +and the next day, February the 13th, we were visited by the natives in +great numbers. The Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomical +observatories erected on their former situation. I landed, with +another gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a great +number of canoes, just arrived from different parts of the island, +and the Indians busy in erecting temporary huts on the beach for their +residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on board the +Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected in stealing +the armourer's tongs from the forge; for which he received a pretty +severe flogging, and was sent out from the ship. Notwithstanding the +example made of this man, in the afternoon another had the audacity +to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with which he +jumped overboard, and swam for the shore. The master and a midshipman +were instantly dispatched after him in the small cutter. The Indian, +seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymen took him on +board, and paddled as swift as they could towards the shore; we fired +several muskets at them, but to no effect, for they soon got out of +the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, who was at that time +on board the Discovery, understanding what had happened, immediately +went ashore, promising to bring back the stolen goods. Our boat was +so far distanced, in chacing the canoe which had taken the thief on +board, that he had time to make his escape into the country. Captain +Cook, who was then ashore, endeavoured to intercept his landing; but +it seems that he was led out of the way by some of the natives, who +had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As the master was +approaching near the landing-place, he was met by some of the Indians +in a canoe. They had brought back the tongs and chisel, together with +another article that we had not missed, which happened to be the lid +of the water-cask. Having recovered these things, he was returning on +board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, with five men in +her, who, without any orders, had come from the observatories to his +assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced, he thought himself +strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or the canoe which took +him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he turned back; and +having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparing to launch it +into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and insisted upon his +not taking it away, as it was his property. The officer not regarding +him, the chief seized upon him, pinioned his arms behind, and held him +by the hair of his head; on which one of the sailors struck him with +an oar. Pareah instantly quitted the officer, snatched the oar out of +the man's hand, and snapped it in two across his knee. At length +the multitude began to attack our people with stones. They made some +resistance, but were soon overpowered, and obliged to swim for safety +to the small cutter, which lay farther out than the pinnace. The +officers, not being expert swimmers, retreated to a small rock in the +water, where they were closely pursued by the Indians. One man darted +a broken oar at the master, but his foot slipping at the time, he +missed him, which fortunately saved that officer's life. At last, +Pareah interfered, and put an end to their violence. The gentlemen, +knowing that his presence was their only defence against the fury of +the natives, entreated him to stay with them till they could get off +in the boats; but that he refused, and left them. The master went +to seek assistance from the party at the observatories; but the +midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. He was very rudely treated +by the mob, who plundered the boat of every thing that was loose on +board, and then began to knock her to pieces for the sake of the +iron work; but Pareah fortunately returned in time to prevent +her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his way to the +observatories, and, suspecting his errand, had forced him to return. +He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to return on +board. They represented that all their oars had been taken out of the +boat; on which he brought some of them back, and the gentlemen were +glad to get off, without farther molestation. They had not proceeded +far, before they were overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe. He delivered +the midshipman's cap, which had been taken from him in the scuffle, +joined noses with them, in token of reconciliation, and was anxious +to know if Captain Cook would kill him for what had happened. They +assured him of the contrary, and made signs of friendship to him in +return. He then left them, and paddled over to the town of Kavaroah, +and that was the last time we ever saw him. Captain Cook returned on +board soon after, much displeased with the whole of this disagreeable +business; and the same night sent a lieutenant on board the Discovery +to learn the particulars of it, as it had originated in that ship. It +was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusion +attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on terms +particularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened, +with a hog to sell on board the Discovery; it was of an extraordinary +large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger, of an unusual +length. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. Captain +Clerke not having one of that length, told him, he would get one made +for him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the +hog, and went ashore without making any stay with us. It will not +be altogether foreign to the subject, to mention a circumstance that +happened to-day on board the Resolution. An Indian chief asked Captain +Cook at his table if he was a _Tata Toa_, which mean's a fighting man, +or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see his +wounds; Captain Cook held out his right-hand, which had a scar +upon it, dividing the thumb from the finger the whole length of the +metacarpal bones. The Indian being thus convinced of his being a Toa, +put the same question to another gentleman present, but he happened to +have none of those distinguishing marks; the chief then said, that he +himself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some wounds he had received +in battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories were disturbed, +during the night, with shrill and melancholy sounds, issuing from +the adjacent villages, which they took to be the lamentations of the +women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have filled their minds +with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands; but, be that as +it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual awe and +terror. + +"To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night, +took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy +of one of her anchors; they had carried her off so quietly, that we +did not miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain +Clerke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook, to acquaint him with +the accident; he returned on board, with orders for the launch and +small cutter to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and +lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes +that might attempt to get out, and, if he found it necessary, to fire +upon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution, +with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service, to the +opposite point of the bay; and the master was dispatched in the large +cutter in pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making the +best of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and by +firing a few muskets, drove her on shore, and the Indians left her; +this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title of +Orono. He was on board himself, and it would have been fortunate if +our people had secured him, for his person was held as sacred as that +of the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing to go ashore +himself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person of +Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another +part of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual +step that could be taken on the present occasion for the recovery of +the boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similar +cases, at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended +with the desired success; in fact, it would be difficult to point out +any other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain +the object in view.[3] We had reason to suppose, that the king and his +attendants had fled when the alarm was first given; in that case, it +was Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which were +hauled up on the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attended +by the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, corporal, and seven private +men; the pinnace's crew were also armed, and under the command of Mr +Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, Captain Cook ordered the +launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order to +assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice; for +it clearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting with +resistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparation +for the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, that +from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not +one, beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutely +requisite; so little did his conduct on the occasion bear the marks of +rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed with the marines +at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah; the Indians immediately +flocked round as usual, and shewed him the customary marks of +respect, by prostrating themselves before him. There were no signs of +hostilities, or much alarm among them. Captain Cook, however, did not +seem willing to trust to appearances, but was particularly attentive +to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept clear of the +crowd. He first enquired for the king's sons, two youths who were much +attached to him, and generally his companions on board. Messengers +being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informing him that +their father was asleep at a house not far from them, he accompanied +them thither, and took the marines along with them. As he passed +along, the natives every where prostrated themselves before him, and +seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always shewn to +his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom was Kanynah, +and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order, according +to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intention in +coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs or other +provisions; he told them that he did not, and that his business was +to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some of the +Indians to go in and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without to speak +with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of returning +any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red cloth to him, +which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house; he +therefore desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. The lieutenant +found the old man just awaked from sleep, and seemingly alarmed at the +message; but he came out without hesitation. Captain Cook took him by +the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go on board, to which +he very readily consented. Thus far matters appeared in a favourable +train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed or apprehensive +of hostility on our side, at which Captain Cook expressed himself +a little surprised, saying, that as the inhabitants of that town +appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molest them, +but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down before his +door, and was surrounded by a great crowd; Kanynah and his brother +were both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time, +however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears, +clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use as +armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming, +on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side of the +bay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed by +one of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had also +delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, +the women who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, and +conversing familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and +a confused murmur spread through the crowd. An old priest came to +Captain Cook, with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to him +as a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desired +to be silent, but in vain; he continued importunate and troublesome, +and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or his noise; it +seemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen, +who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in every +quarter. Captain Cook being at the same time surrounded by a great +crowd, thought his situation rather hazardous; he therefore ordered +the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to the water-side, +where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore; the Indians +readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt +them. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards; +Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied +him very willingly; he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several +chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage +noise. Keowa, the younger son, went directly into the pinnace, +expecting his father to follow, but just as he arrived at the +water-side, his wife threw her arms about his neck, and, with the +assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of a +double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose; +they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him, that he would +be put to death if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct +seemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head, +and appeared much distressed. + +"While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, +of the name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger, +partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly, with the intention +of stabbing Captain Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latter +proposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho +closing upon them, obliged the officer to strike him with his piece, +which made him retire. Another Indian laid hold of the serjeant's +musquet, and endeavoured to wrench it from him, but was prevented by +the lieutenant's making a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the tumult +increase, and the Indians growing more daring and resolute, observed, +that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do it +without sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He then paused a +little, and was on the point of giving his orders to reimbark, when a +man threw a stone at him, which he returned with a discharge of small +shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded.) The +man having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt; he +brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who +being still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with +ball, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with +the most forward of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He had +given up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appeared +impracticable; and his care was then only to act on the defensive, and +to secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which was closely +pressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king's son, +who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first fire, was, +at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for even at that time, Mr +Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook's +person was in any danger; otherwise he would have detained the prince, +which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One +man was observed, behind a double canoe, in the action of darting +his spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his own +defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward in +the tumult; the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he aimed +at, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By +this time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; +they fell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on +by those behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of +stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it +with a general discharge of musquetry, which was instantly followed by +a fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his +astonishment; he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease +firing, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr Roberts +immediately brought the pinnace as close to the shore as he could, +without grounding, notwithstanding the showers of stones that fell +among the people; but ----, the lieutenant, who commanded in the +launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook, +withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment that every thing seems to +have depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By +his own account, he mistook the signal; but be that as it may, this +circumstance appears to me to have decided the fatal turn of the +affair, and to have removed every chance which remained with Captain +Cook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marines +out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the +pinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, in +a great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what +assistance they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that +he seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the +assistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For, +notwithstanding that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from the +situation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusion +which ensued on her being withdrawn, to say the least of it, must have +prevented the full effect, that the prompt co-operation of the two +boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards the +preservation of himself and his people.[4] At that time, it was to the +boats alone, that Captain Cook had to look for his safety; for, when +the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, and forced them +into the water, where four of them were killed; their lieutenant was +wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace. +Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock; he was +observed making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the +back of his head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his +musquet under the other arm. An Indian was seen following him, +but with caution and timidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if +undetermined to proceed. At last he advanced upon him unawares, and +with a large club,[5] or common stake, gave him a blow on the back of +the head, and then precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have +stunned Captain Cook; he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand +and one knee, and dropped his musquet. As he was rising, and before he +could recover his feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the +neck with an iron dagger. He then fell into a bite of water about +knee deep, where others crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him +under: but struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and +casting his look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. +Though the boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet +from the crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems, it was not +in their power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in +deeper water; he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and +being almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, +and was endeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him +a blow with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him up +lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure in +using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of +each other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction of piercing the +fallen victim of their barbarous rage. + +"I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on this +occasion, or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough to say, +that no man was ever more beloved or admired; and it is truly painful +to reflect, that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want +of being properly supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as +having fallen to his lot, who had ever been conspicuous for his care +of those under his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as +much attention to their preservation, as to that of his own life. If +any thing could have added to the shame and indignation universally +felt on this occasion, it was to find, that his remains had been +deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although they might have +been brought off. It appears, from the information of four or five +midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of the fatal +business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by the +Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and +dispersed through the town; so that there seemed no great obstacle +to prevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenant +returned on board without making the attempt. It is unnecessary to +dwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complaints +and censures that fell on the conduct of the lieutenant. It will be +sufficient to observe, that they were so loud as to oblige Captain +Clerke publicly to notice them, and to take the depositions of his +accusers down in writing. The captain's bad state of health and +approaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy these +papers a short time before his death. It is a painful task, to be +obliged to notice circumstances, which seem to reflect upon the +character of any man. A strict regard to truth, however, compelled me +to the insertion of these facts, which I have offered merely as +facts, without presuming to connect with them any comment of my own; +esteeming it the part of a faithful historian, 'to extenuate nothing, +nor set down aught in malice.' The fatal accident happened at eight +o'clock in the morning, about an hour after Captain Cook landed. It +did not seem, that the king, or his sons, were witnesses to it; but +it is supposed that they withdrew in the midst of the tumult. The +principal actors were the other chiefs, many of them the king's +relations and attendants; the man who stabbed him with the dagger was +called Nooah. I happened to be the only one who recollected his person +from having on a former occasion mentioned his name in the journal I +kept. I was induced to take particular notice of him, more from his +personal appearance than any other consideration, though he was of +high rank, and a near relation of the king; he was stout and tall, +with a fierce look and demeanour, and one who united in his figure the +two qualities of strength and agility, in a greater degree, than ever +I remembered to have seen before in any other man. His age might be +about thirty, and by the white scurf on his skin, and his sore eyes, +he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. He was a constant companion +of the king, with whom I first saw him, when he paid a visit to +Captain Clerke. The chief who first struck Captain Cook with the club, +was called Karimano, craha, but I did not know him by his name. These +circumstances I learnt of honest Kaireekea, the priest, who added, +that they were both held in great esteem on account of that action; +neither of them came near us afterwards. When the boats left the +shore, the Indians carried away the dead body of Captain Cook and +those of the marines, to the rising ground, at the back of the town, +where we could plainly see them with our glasses from the ships. This +most melancholy accident appears to have been altogether unexpected +and unforeseen, as well on the part of the natives as ourselves. I +never saw sufficient reason to induce me to believe, that there was +any thing of design, or a pre-concerted plan, on their side, or that +they purposely sought to quarrel with us; thieving, which gave rise +to the whole, they were equally guilty of, in our first and second +visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened +between us; their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but +sometimes slightly punished; the boat, which they at last ventured +to take away, was an object of no small magnitude to people in our +situation, who could not possibly replace her, and therefore not +slightly to be given up. We had no other chance of recovering her, +but by getting the person of the king into our possession; on our +attempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, and +naturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the sudden +conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing +our excellent commander, in the manner already related. It is in this +light the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely accidental, +and not in the least owing to any previous offence received, or +jealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives. Pareah seems +to have been the principal instrument in bringing about this fatal +disaster. We learnt afterwards, that it was he who had employed some +people to steal the boat; the king did not seem to be privy to it, or +even apprized of what had happened, till Captain Cook landed. It +was generally remarked, that, at first, the Indians shewed great +resolution in facing our fire-arms; but it was entirely owing to +ignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats would +defend them from a ball, as well as from a stone; but being soon +convinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how such +execution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem, +which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew their +ingenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of the +musquets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract their +effect, and therefore, very sagaciously, dipped their mats, or armour, +in the sea, just as they came on to face our people; but finding this +last resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach +entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at the +greatest hazard, to carry off their slain; a custom, probably owing to +the barbarity with which they treat the dead body of an enemy, and the +trophies they make of his bones."[6]] + +[Footnote 1: It is proper to take notice, that Mr Samwell spells the +names of several persons and places differently from what is done +in the history of the voyage. For instance, Karakakooa, he +calls Ke,rag,e,goo,ah; Terreeoboo, Kariopoo; Kowrowa, Kavaroah; +Kaneecabareea, Kaneekapo berei; Mahai mahai, Ka,mea,mea.] + +[Footnote 2: Mr King relates, that our voyagers, upon coming to +anchor, were surprised to find their reception very different from +what it had been on their first arrival. He acknowledges, however, +that the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, the next morning, +came immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of +the natives to their former friendly intercourse with the English, are +strong proofs, that they neither meant nor apprehended any change of +conduct. "Things," says Mr King, "went on in their usual quiet course +till the afternoon of the 13th."] + +[Footnote 3: Mr King acknowledges, that he was always fearful, that +the degree of confidence which Captain Cook had acquired from his +long and uninterrupted course of success, in his transactions with the +natives of these seas, might, at some unlucky moment, put him too much +off his guard.] + +[Footnote 4: I have been informed, on the best authority, that, in +the opinion of Captain Philips, who commanded the marines, and whose +judgment must be of the greatest weight, it is extremely doubtful +whether any thing could successfully have been done to preserve the +life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had been committed on the +part of the launch.] + +[Footnote 5: I have heard one of the gentlemen who were present +say, that the first injury he received was from a dagger, as it is +represented in the voyage; but, from the account of many others, who +were also eye-witnesses, I am confident, in saying, that he was first +struck with a club. I was afterwards confirmed in this, by Kaireekea, +the priest, who particularly mentioned the name of the man who gave +him the blow, as well as that of the chief, who afterwards struck him +with the dagger. This is a point not worth disputing about; I mention +it, as being solicitous to be accurate in this account, even in +circumstances, of themselves, not very material.] + +[Footnote 6: Samwell's Narrative of the Death of Captain James Cook, +p. 2-20.] + + +SECTION IV. + +_Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of Captain +Cook.--Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.--Dangerous +Situation of the Party at the Morai.--Bravery of one of the +Natives.--Consultation respecting future Measures.--Demand of the +Body of Captain Cook.--Evasive and insidious Conduct of Koah and +the Chiefs.--Insolent Behaviour of the Natives.--Promotion +of Officers.--Arrival of two Priests with Part of the +Body.--Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys.--Burning of the Village +of Kakooa.--Unfortunate Destruction of the Dwellings of the +Priests.--Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.--Departure from +Karakakooa Bay._ + +It has been already stated, that four of the marines, who attended +Captain Cook, were killed by the islanders on the spot. The rest, with +Mr Phillips, their lieutenant, threw themselves into the water, and +escaped, under cover of a smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, +a remarkable instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his +men, was shewn by that officer; for he had scarcely got into the boat, +when, seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in +the water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately +jumped into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself; +and, after receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly +sent him to the bottom, be caught the man by the hair, and brought him +safe off. + +Our people continued for some time to keep up a constant fire from the +boats (which, during the whole transaction, were not more than twenty +yards from the land,) in order to afford their unfortunate companions, +if any of them should still remain alive, an opportunity of escaping. +These efforts, seconded by a few guns that were fired at the same time +from the Resolution, having forced the natives at last to retire, a +small boat, manned by five of our young midshipmen, pulled toward the +shore, where they saw the bodies, without any signs of life, lying +on the ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, +with so small a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, +they returned to the ships, leaving them in possession of the +islanders, together with ten stands of arms. + +As soon as the general consternation, which the news of this calamity +occasioned throughout both crews, had a little subsided, their +attention was called to our party at the _morai_, where the mast +and sails were on shore, with a guard of only six marines. It is +impossible for me to describe the emotions of my own mind, during the +time these transactions had been carrying on at the other side of the +bay. Being at the distance of only a short mile from the village of +Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense crowd collected on the +spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. We heard the firing +of the musketry, and could perceive some extraordinary bustle and +agitation in the multitude. We afterwards saw the natives flying, +the boats retire from the shore, and passing and repassing, in great +stillness, between the ships. I must confess, that my heart soon +misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was concerned, it was +impossible not to be alarmed, by appearances both new and threatening. +But, besides this, I knew that a long and uninterrupted course of +success, in his transactions with the natives of these seas, had given +the captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful might, +at some unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard; and I now saw +all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without receiving +much consolation from considering the experience that had given rise +to it.[1] + +[Footnote 1: This is a very happy reflection, and implies a +discriminating power and good sense, of which, it is justice to his +talents to say, Captain King has exhibited no few or inconsiderable +examples.--E.] + +My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was, to assure the +people, who had assembled in considerable numbers round the wall of +our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how +to account for what they had seen and heard, that they should not be +molested; and that, at all events, I was desirous of continuing on +peaceable terms with them. We remained in this posture till the boats +had returned on board, when Captain Clerke, observing through his +telescope, that we were surrounded by the natives, and apprehending +they meant to attack us, ordered two four-pounders to be fired at +them. Fortunately, these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, +and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of +the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party +of them were sitting; and the other shivered a rock that stood in an +exact line with them. As I had just before given them the strongest +assurances of their safety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of +hostility; and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately dispatched +a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at present, I was on the +most friendly terms with the natives; and that, if occasion should +hereafter arise for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoist +a jack, as a signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his +power. + +We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience; and, +after remaining a quarter of an hour under the most torturing anxiety +and suspense, our fears were at length confirmed by the arrival of Mr +Bligh, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as possible, and to +send the sails that were repairing on board. Just at the same moment, +our friend Kaireekeea, having also received intelligence of the death +of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side +of the bay, came to me, with great sorrow and dejection in his +countenance, to enquire if it was true. + +Our situation was, at this time, extremely critical and important; not +only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of +at least one of the ships, being involved in the same common danger. +We had the mast of the Resolution, and the greatest part of our sails, +on shore, under the protection of only six marines: Their loss would +have been irreparable; and though the natives had not as yet shewn the +smallest disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer +for the alteration which the news of the transaction at Kowrowa might +produce. I therefore thought it prudent to dissemble my belief of +the death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage +the report; lest either the fear of our resentment, or the successful +example of their countrymen, might lead them to seize the favourable +opportunity, which at this time offered itself, of giving us a second +blow. At the same time I advised him to bring old Kaoo and the rest of +the priests, into a large house that was close to the _morai_; partly +out of regard to their safety, in case it should have been found +necessary to proceed to extremities; and, partly, to have him near us, +in order to make use of his authority with the people, if it could be +instrumental in preserving peace. + +Having placed the marines on the top of the _morai_, which formed +a strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr Bligh, +giving him the most positive directions to act entirely on the +defensive, I went on board the Discovery, in order to represent to +Captain Clerke the dangerous situation of our affairs. As soon as I +quitted the spot, the natives began to annoy our people with stones; +and I had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of the +marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where I found things +growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and +putting on their mats; and their numbers increased very fast. I could +also perceive several large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff +which separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, +where the village of Kowrowa is situated. + +They began at first to attack us with stones, from behind the walls +of their enclosures; and finding no resistance on our part, they +soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows, having crept along the +beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the +foot of the _morai_, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on +the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part; and were +not dislodged, till after they had stood a considerable number of +shot, and seen one of their party fall. + +The bravery of one of these assailants well deserves to be +particularly mentioned; for, having returned to carry off his +companion, amidst the fire of our whole party, a wound which he +received made him quit the body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he +again appeared, and being again wounded, he was obliged a second +time to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the _morai_, and saw him +return the third time, bleeding and faint; and being informed of what +had happened, I forbade the soldiers to fire, and he was suffered to +carry off his friend; which he was just able to perform, and then fell +down himself, and expired. + +About this time a strong reinforcement from both ships having landed, +the natives retreated behind their walls; which, giving me access to +our friendly priests, I sent one of them to endeavour to bring their +countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would +desist from throwing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. This +truce was agreed to; and we were suffered to launch the mast, and +carry off the sails, and our astronomical apparatus, unmolested. As +soon as we had quitted the _morai_, they took possession of it, and +some of them threw a few stones, but without doing us any mischief. + +It was half an hour past eleven o'clock when I got on board the +Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our +future proceedings. The restitution of the boat, and the recovery of +the body of Captain Cook, were the objects which, on all hands, we +agreed to insist on; and it was my opinion that some vigorous steps +should be taken, in case the demand of them was not immediately +complied with. + +Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured friend, may +be suspected to have had some share in this opinion, yet there were +certainly other reasons, and those of the most serious kind, that had +considerable weight with me. The confidence which their success in +killing our chief, and forcing us to quit the shore, must naturally +have inspired; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had +obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, encourage +them to make some further dangerous attempts; and the more especially, +as they had little reason, from what they had hitherto seen, to dread +the effects of our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations +of every one, this sort of weapon had produced no signs of terror in +them. On our side, such was the condition of the ships, and the state +of discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous attack been made on +us in the night, it would have been impossible to answer for the +consequences. + +In these apprehensions, I was supported by the opinion of most of the +officers on board; and nothing seemed to me so likely to encourage the +natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined +to an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weakness or +fear. + +In favour of more conciliatory measures, it was justly urged, that +the mischief was done, and irreparable; that the natives had a +strong claim to our regard, on account of their former friendship and +kindness; and the more especially, as the late melancholy accident did +not appear to have arisen from any premeditated design; that, on +the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readiness to +accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually sent his +two sons into the boat, must free him from the smallest degree of +suspicion; that the conduct of his women and the _Erees_ might easily +be accounted for, from the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force +with which Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations +in the bay; appearances so different from the terms of friendship and +confidence, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming +of the natives was evidently with a design to resist the attempt, +which they had some reason to imagine would be made, to carry off +their king by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people +full of affection and attachment to their chiefs. + +To these motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were +added; that we were in want of water and other refreshments; that +our foremast would require six or eight days work before it could +be stepped; that the spring was advancing apace; and that the speedy +prosecution of our next northern expedition ought now to be our sole +object; that, therefore, to engage in a vindictive contest with the +inhabitants, might not only lay us under the imputation of unnecessary +cruelty, but would occasion an unavoidable delay in the equipment of +the ships. + +In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and though I was +convinced, that an early display of vigorous resentment would more +effectually have answered every object both of prudence and humanity, +I was not sorry that the measures I had recommended were rejected. +For, though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their +subsequent opposition to our necessary operations on shore, arising, +I have no doubt, from a misconstruction of our lenity, compelled us at +last to have recourse to violence in our own defence; yet I am not so +sure that the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of +the world, have justified the use of force on our part in the first +instance. Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious; and has this +additional objection to it, that the severity of a preventive course, +when it best succeeds, leaves its expediency the least apparent. + +During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting some plan for +our future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives still kept +possession of the shore; and some of them came off in canoes, and +had the boldness to approach, within pistol-shot of the ships, and to +insult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great +difficulty we could restrain the sailors from the use of their arms +on these occasions; but as pacific measures had been, resolved on, the +canoes were suffered to return unmolested. In pursuance of this plan, +it was determined, that I should proceed toward the shore, with the +boats of both ships, well manned and armed; with a view to bring the +natives to a parley, and, if possible, to obtain a conference with +some of the chiefs. + +If this attempt succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and +particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them with our vengeance +in case of a refusal; but by no means to fire, unless attacked; and +not to land on any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me +before the whole party, and in the most positive manner. + +I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon; and, as we +approached the shore, I perceived every indication of a hostile +reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion; the women and +children retiring; the men putting on their war-mats, and arming +themselves with long spears and daggers. We also observed, that since +the morning they had thrown up stone breast-works along the beach +where Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an attack at +that place; and as soon as we were within reach, they began to throw +stones at us with slings, but without doing any mischief. Concluding, +therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in +vain, unless I first gave them some ground for mutual confidence, I +ordered the armed boats to stop, and went on in the small boat alone, +with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the +natives, I had the satisfaction to find was instantly understood. The +women immediately returned from the side of the hill, whither they had +retired; the men threw off their mats, and all sat down together +by the water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on +shore. + +Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly disposition, +yet I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its sincerity. +But when I saw Koah, with a boldness and assurance altogether +unaccountable, swimming off toward the boat, with a white flag in his +hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and +therefore received him into the boat, though armed; a circumstance +which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess I had long +harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. The priests had always +told us that he was of a malicious disposition, and no friend of ours; +and the repeated detections of his fraud and treachery had convinced +us of the truth of their representations. Add to all this, the +shocking transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a +principal part, made me feel the utmost horror at finding myself so +near him; and as he came up to me, with feigned tears, and embraced +me, I was so distrustful of his intentions, that I could not help +taking hold of the point of the _pahooah_, which he held in his hand, +and turning it from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the +body of Captain Cook; and to declare war against them, unless it +was instantly restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as +possible; and that he would go himself for that purpose; and, after +begging of me a piece of iron, with as much assurance as if nothing +extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore, +calling out to his countrymen that we were all friends again. + +We waited near an hour, with great anxiety, for his return; during +which time the rest of the boats had approached so near the shore +as to enter into conversation with a party of the natives, at some +distance from us; by whom they were plainly given to understand, that +the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of +this circumstance I was not informed till our return to the ships. + +I began now to express some impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the +chiefs pressed me to come on shore; assuring me, that if I would go +myself to Terreeoboo, the body would certainly be restored to me. When +they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under +a pretence of wishing to converse with more ease, to decoy our boat +among some rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut +us off from the rest. It was no difficult matter to see through these +artifices; and I was, therefore, strongly inclined to break off all +further communication with them, when a chief came to us, who was +the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of the +Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed when we last left the +bay, intending to take his passage to _Mowee_. He told us, that he +came from Terreeoboo, to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the +country; but that it should be brought to us the next morning. There +appeared a great deal of sincerity in his manner; and being asked if +he told a falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is +understood amongst these islanders as the sign of truth; in the use of +which they are very scrupulous. + +As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent Mr Vancouver +to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had passed; that my opinion +was they meant not to keep their word with us; and were so far from +being sorry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were +full of spirits and confidence on account of their late success, and +sought only to gain time, till they could contrive some scheme for +getting us into their power. Mr Vancouver came back with orders for me +to return on board; having given the natives to understand, that, +if the body was not brought the next morning, the town should be +destroyed. + +When they saw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us +by the most insulting and contemptuous gestures. Some of our people +said they could distinguish several of the natives parading about +in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades; and among them a chief, +brandishing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the scabbard. +Indeed, there can be no doubt but that our behaviour had given them a +mean opinion of our courage, for they could have but little notion of +the motives of humanity that directed it. + +In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I +conceived to be the present temper and disposition of the islanders, +the most effectual measures were taken to guard against any attack +they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; +additional sentinels were posted on both ships; and guard-boats were +stationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from +cutting the cables. During the night we observed a prodigious number +of lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they were +removing their effects back into the country, in consequence of our +threats. But I rather believe them to have been sacrifices that were +performing on account of the war in which they imagined themselves +about to be engaged; and, most probably, the bodies of our slain +countrymen were at that time burning. We afterwards saw fires of the +same kind, as we passed the island of Morotoi; and which, we were told +by some natives then on board, were made on account of the war they +had declared against a neighbouring island. And this agrees with what +we learned amongst the Friendly and Society Isles, that, previous +to any expedition against an enemy, the chiefs always endeavoured to +animate and inflame the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings +in the night. + +We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by the howlings and +lamentations which were heard on shore; and early the next morning +Koah came alongside the Resolution, with a present of cloth and a +small pig, which he desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned +before, that I was supposed, by the natives, to be the son of Captain +Cook; and as he, in his lifetime, had always suffered them to believe +it, I was probably considered as the chief after his death. As soon as +I came on deck, I questioned, him about the body; and on his returning +me nothing but evasive answers, I refused to accept his presents; +and was going to dismiss him, with some expressions of anger and +resentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it best, at all events, to +keep up the appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that he +should be treated with the usual respect. + +This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during the course of +the forenoon, with some trifling present or other; and, as I always +observed him eyeing every part of the ship with great attention, I +look care he should see we were well prepared for our defence. + +He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myself, to go +on shore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the +other chiefs; and assuring us that every thing might be settled to +our satisfaction by a personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, +his conduct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this +request; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which +proved the entire falsehood of his pretences: For we were told, that, +immediately after the action, in which Captain Cook was killed, the +old king had retired to a cave in the steep part of the mountain that +hangs over the bay, which was accessible only by the help of ropes, +and where he remained for many days, having his victuals let down to +him by cords. + +When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive that his +countrymen, who had been collected, by break of day, in vast crowds on +the shore, thronged about him with great eagerness; as if to learn the +intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in consequence +of it. It is very probable, that they expected we should attempt to +put our threats in execution; and they seemed fully resolved to stand +their ground. During the whole morning we heard conchs blowing in +different parts of the coast; large parties were seen marching over +the hills; and, in short, appearances were so alarming, that we +carried out a stream-anchor, to enable us to haul the ship abreast +of the town, in case of an attack; and stationed boats off the north +point of the bay, to prevent a surprise from that quarter. + +The breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, and +the warlike posture in which they at this time appeared, occasioned +fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to be pursued. +It was at last determined, that nothing should be suffered to +interfere with the repair of the mast, and the preparations for our +departure; but that we should, nevertheless, continue our negotiations +for the recovery of the bodies. + +The greatest part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-mast +into a proper situation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; +and in making the necessary alterations in the commissions of the +officers. The command of the expedition having devolved on Captain +Clerke, he removed on board the Resolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore +to be captain of the Discovery, and promoted Mr Harvey, a midshipman, +who had been with Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the vacant +lieutenancy. During the whole day we met with no interruption from the +natives; and at night the launch was again moored with a top-chain; +and guard-boats stationed round both ships as before. + +About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling +toward the ship; and as soon as it was seen both the sentinels on +deck fired into it. There were two persons in the canoe, and they +immediately roared out "_Tinnee!_" which was the way in which they +pronounced my name, and said they were friends, and had something +for me belonging to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw +themselves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily, +neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had +gone through the canoe. One of them was the person, whom I have before +mentioned under the name of the _Taboo man_, who constantly attended +Captain Cook with the circumstances of ceremony I have already +described; and who, though a man of rank in the island, could scarcely +be hindered from performing for him the lowest offices of a menial +servant. After lamenting, with abundance of tears, the loss of the +_Orono_, he told us, that he had brought us a part of his body. He +then presented to us a small bundle, wrapped up in cloth, which he +brought under his arm; and it is impossible to describe the horror +which seized us, on finding in it a piece of human flesh, about nine +or ten pounds weight. This, he said, was all that remained of the +body; that the rest was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the head +and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the +possession of Terreeoboo and the other _Erees_; that what we saw had +been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, to be made use of +in some religious ceremony; and that he had sent it as a proof of his +innocence and attachment to us. + +This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves whether they were +cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We first tried, by many indirect +questions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the rest +of the bodies had been disposed of; and finding them very constant in +one story, that, after the flesh had been cut off, it was all burnt, +we at last put the direct question, whether they had not eat some of +it? They immediately shewed as much horror at the idea as any European +would have done; and asked, very naturally, if that was the custom +amongst us? They afterward asked us, with great earnestness and +apparent apprehension, "When the _Orono_ would come again; and what he +would do to them on his return?" The same enquiry was frequently made +afterward by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenor of +their conduct toward him, which shewed that they considered him as a +being of a superior nature. + +We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning, +but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction should come to the +knowledge of the king, or chiefs, it might be attended with the most +fatal consequences to their whole society; in order to prevent which +they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the same +precaution would be necessary in returning on shore. They informed +us farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their +countrymen; and particularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, +they said, was our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing +more ardently than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing +of the conchs, we heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge. + +We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were +killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were chiefs; +and that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were +unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the +observatory, three of whom were also of the first rank. + +About eleven o'clock our two friends left us, and took the precaution +to desire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had passed +the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which might alarm +their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the danger of +being discovered. This request was complied with; and we had the +satisfaction to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to land. + +During the remainder of this night, we heard the same loud howling +and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, +we received another visit from Koah. I must confess, I was a little +piqued to find, that notwithstanding the most evident marks of +treachery in his conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends +the priests, he should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, +and to make us at least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. +Indeed our situation was become extremely awkward and unpromising; +none of the purposes for which this pacific course of proceeding had +been adopted, having hitherto been in the least forwarded by it. No +satisfactory answer whatever had been given to our demands; we did not +seem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the islanders; +they still kept in force on the shore, as if determined to resist +any attempts we might make to land; and yet the attempt was become +absolutely necessary, as the completing our supply of water would not +admit of any longer delay. + +However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain +Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great number of the +natives, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, +an attack could not have been made without some danger; and that the +loss of a very few men might have been severely felt by us, during the +remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of +our threats, though on the one hand it lessened their opinion of our +power, had the effect of causing them to disperse on the other. For +this day, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great +bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of +defiance, marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward. +Those, however, who remained, were not the less daring and insolent. +One man had the audacity to come within musket-shot a-head of the +ship; and, after slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain +Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting +and encouraging his boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this +insult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, begged they might +no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations; and +requested me to obtain permission for them from Captain Clerke, to +avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of +their commander. On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave +orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore; and +promised the crew, that if they should meet with any molestation at +the watering-place the next day, they should then be left at liberty +to chastise them. + +It is somewhat remarkable, that before we could bring our guns to +bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions, from the stir they +saw in the ship, and had retired behind their houses and walls. +We were therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random; +notwithstanding which, our shot produced all the effects that could +have been desired; for, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, +with extreme haste, and on his arrival we learned, that some people +had been killed, and amongst the rest, Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, +and a near relation of the king.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The word _matee_ is commonly used, in the language of +these islands, to express either killing or wounding; and we were +afterwards told, that this chief had only received a slight blow on +the face from a stone, which had been struck by one of the balls.] + +Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from, the _morai_ +toward the ships, having each a long spear in his hand; and after +they had approached pretty near, they began to chant a song in a very +solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often mentioning +the word _Orono_, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was +killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung +in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the +whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the +Discovery and delivered their spears, and after making a short stay, +returned on shore. Who sent them, or what was the object of this +ceremony, we were never able to learn. + +At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the +ships; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had visited +us the night before, came off again. They assured us, that though the +effects of our great guns, this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs +exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile intentions, +and advised us to be on our guard. + +The next morning, the boats of both ships were sent ashore for water, +and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover +that service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests +had sent us, was not without foundation; and that the natives were +resolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when, it could be +done without much risk. + +Throughout all this group of islands, the villages, for the most part, +are situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with +stone walls, about three feet high. These, we at first imagined, were +intended for the division of property; but we now discovered, that +they served, and probably were principally designed, for a defence +against invasion. They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants +are very dexterous in shifting them with great quickness, to such +situations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the sides +of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have also little +holes, or caves, of considerable depth, the entrance of which is +secured by a fence of the same kind. From behind both these defences, +the natives kept perpetually harassing our waterers with stones; nor +could the small force we had on shore, with the advantage of muskets, +compel them to retreat. + +In this exposed situation, our people were so taken up in attending +to their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling +only one ton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this +service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, +the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with her great guns, +which being effected by a few discharges, the men landed without +molestation. However, the natives soon after made their appearance +again, in their usual mode of attack; and it was now found absolutely +necessary to burn down some straggling houses near the well, behind +which they had taken shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to +add, that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty +and devastation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their +resentment of the repeated insults and contemptuous behaviour of the +islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging the loss of their +commander. But, at the same time, their conduct served strongly to +convince me, that the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, +though but for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands +of private seamen or soldiers on such occasions. The rigour of +discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is +kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough to +conceive, that whatever they have the power; they have also the right +to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they +are accustomed to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the +only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that +what they can do with impunity, they may do with justice and honour. +So that the feelings of humanity, which are inseparable from us all, +and that generosity toward an unresisting enemy, which at other times +is the distinguishing mark of brave men, become but weak restraints +to the exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire they naturally +have of shewing their own independence and power.[3] + +[Footnote 3: In the preceding remarks, we have another strong +confirmation, if any additional one were wanting, of the opinions +formerly given respecting the character and usual conduct of sailors. +Nor are they less imperative, as to the expediency of modifying the +education and treatment of that useful class of subjects, than what +we ventured, on another occasion, to suggest. They have, however, the +recommendation of experience, to which, in general, more regard is +properly enough shewn, than can be expected towards arguments drawn +from merely abstract opinions, too often so remote from the common +track of life as to be quite inapplicable to the diversities and +complicated relations of human societies.--E.] + +I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to burn only a +few straggling huts, which afforded shelter to the natives. We were +therefore a good deal surprised to see the whole village on fire; and +before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, +could reach the shore, the houses of our old and constant friends, the +priests, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that +confined me on board this day. The priests had always been under my +protection; and unluckily the officers who were then on duty, having +been seldom ashore at the _morai_, were not much acquainted with +the circumstances of the place. Had I been present myself, I might +probably have been, the means of saving their little society from +destruction. + +Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape from the +flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought +them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us +all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was shot at by one of +the marines. The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw +from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before +described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater +courage and fierceness, till at last, after having kept two of our +people at bay for a considerable time, he expired, covered with +wounds. It was this accident that first brought us acquainted with the +use of these caverns. + +At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on +board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never +saw horror so strongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor so +violent a transition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, +and told he might go away in safety. He shewed us he did not want +gratitude, as he frequently afterward returned with presents of +provisions, and also did us other services. + +Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down the hill, +a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white +cloth, green boughs, and plantains, &c. in their hands. I know not how +it happened, that this peaceful embassy, as soon as they were within +reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not +stop them. They continued their procession, and the officer on duty +came up in time to prevent a second discharge. As they approached +nearer, it was found to be our much-esteemed friend Kairekeea, who had +fled on our first setting fire to the village, and had now returned, +and desired to be sent on board the Resolution. + +When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We +endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of +setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his +brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with +us on our want of friendship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it +was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had +done them. He told us, that relying on the promises I had made them, +and on the assurances they had afterward received from the men, who +had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their +effects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, but +had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what +they had collected from us, into a house close to the _morai_, where +they had the mortification to see it all set on fire by ourselves.[4] + +[Footnote 4: How painful, on the other hand, must this occurrence +have proved to a man of King's refined feelings and sentiments! But it +ought not to be forgotten, that even such an event, though not at all +intended, was almost a necessary consequence of the conduct, which, in +a moment of irritation, not however totally disjoined from every plea +of prudence, he himself had thought right to prescribe. So impolitic, +and so blind in the distribution of mischief, is revenge, though +apparently sanctioned by the hope and calculation of advantage.--E.] + +On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on +the deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great +earnestness, that they might be thrown overboard. This request Captain +Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with. + +In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met +with no farther interruption. We passed a gloomy night; the cries and +lamentations we heard on shore being far more deadful than ever. Our +only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occasion, in +future, for a repetition of such severities. + +It is very extraordinary, that amidst all these disturbances, the +women of the island who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor +discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their +friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of +them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire +the sight, and frequently cried out, that it was _maitai_, or very +fine. + +The next morning, Koah came off as usual to the ships. As there +existed no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was +allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the side of +the ship, singing a song, and offering me a hog and some plantains, I +ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without +Captain Cook's bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his +frequent breach of promise. He did not appear much mortified with this +reception, but went immediately on shore, and joined a party of his +countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the +young man who had been killed the day before, was found this morning, +lying at the entrance of the cave; and some of our people went and +threw a mat over it; soon after which, they saw some men carrying him +off on their shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, +a mournful song. + +The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the want of +ability to punish them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their +provocations, desisted from giving us any farther molestation; and, in +the evening, a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom +we knew to be a man of the very first consequence, came with presents +from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, and he +was dismissed with the same answer which had before been given, that +until the remains of Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would +be granted. We learned from this person, that the flesh of all the +bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been +burnt, that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongst the +inferior chiefs, and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of +in the following manner: The head to a great chief called Kahoo-opeon, +the hair to Maiha-maiha, and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. +After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and +other vegetables, and we also received two large presents of the same +articles from Kaireekeea. + +The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages +which passed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very +pressing that one of our officers should go on shore; and, in the mean +time, offered to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, +it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a +promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach, the +waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives; who, +notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again, without +the smallest appearance of diffidence or apprehension. + +Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction of getting +the foremast stepped. It was an operation attended with great +difficulty and some danger, our ropes being so exceedingly rotten, +that the purchase gave way several times. + +Between ten and eleven o'clock, we saw a great number of people +descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession, +each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and +bread-fruit, _taro_, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded +by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by +a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those who had +followed them, advanced one by one, and having deposited the presents +they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came +in sight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great +solemnity in his hands; and having placed himself on a rock, he made +signs for a boat to be sent to him. + +Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain +Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to +receive them, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we +arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered +to the captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new +cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. +He afterward attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed +upon to go on board, probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, +to be present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the +hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable +scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the +whole length of the metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp +separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the +scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it; +the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to +them; the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet. +The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident +marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the +flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places, and crammed with +salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a +cut in the back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. +The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had been +seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every means +to recover them. + +The next morning, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought +with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrels of his gun, +his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took +great pains to convince us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, +were most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the +most convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been +prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were +still our enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of +six chiefs we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best +friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people, +very probably in revenge for the blow that had been given him, and +that it had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines which +we had also demanded, he assured us had been carried off by the common +people, and were irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone having +been preserved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the Erees. + +Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and +unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to _taboo_ +all the bay; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a +coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the +deep with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this +occasion I leave the world to conceive; those who were present know +that it is not in my power to express them. + +During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the +bay; the _taboo_ which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our +request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. +We assured him that we were now entirely satisfied; and that as the +_Orono_ was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with +him. We afterward desired him to take off the _taboo_, and to make +it known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The +ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came +on board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their +satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who +did not visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. +Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was refused +admittance. + +As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke imagining, +that if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to +leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders, to unmoor. +About eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo +and the friendly Kaireekeea took an affectionate leave of us. We +immediately weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were +collected on the shore in great numbers; and, as we passed along, +received our last farewells with every mark of affection and +good-will.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Would it not be generally advantageous for mankind +to consider, when they are about to engage, or are engaged, in +hostilities against each other, that it is highly probable, nay +in most cases certain, that they shall one day come to a good +understanding, and regret that their altercation had been so mutually +destructive? Would not a notion of this kind, far enough indeed from +being any effect or symptom of weakness, contribute essentially to +what is surely always a good thing, the moderation of men's passions; +and have, therefore, the beneficial tendency, at really the least +expence and suffering, to accomplish the only legitimate and avowed +end of war, a safe and honourable peace? But no termination of a +struggle is entitled to be called either the one or the other, which, +resulting merely from the experience of common exhaustion and mutual +inability, leaves the parties to grumble over the relics of their +animosity, and to brood on their misfortunes, till new means and +spirits be produced to resume the conflict. There is much wisdom in +the language which a deceased statesman used, when he spoke of "making +peace in the spirit of peace," as the only remedy for the political +disorders of the world. But this disposition, it seems morally +certain, cannot exist, unless in union with the anticipation of the +comforts and vastly superior benefits which such a consummation can +afford,--E.] + + +SECTION V. + +_Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the South-East +Side of Mowee.--Driven to Leeward by the Easterly Winds and +Current.--Pass the Island of Tahoorowha.--Description of the +South-West Side of Mowee.--Run along the Coasts of Ranai and +Morotoi to Woahoo.--Description of the North-East Coast of +Woahoo.--Unsuccessful Attempt to Water.--Passage to Atooi.--Anchor in +Wymoa Bay.--Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.--Civil +Dissensions in the Islands.--Visit from the contending Chiefs.--Anchor +off Oneeheow.--Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands._ + +We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood +to the northward, with an intention of searching for a harbour on the +S.E. side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the +natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to leeward by a +heavy swell from the N.E., and a fresh gale springing up from the +same quarter, carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we +tacked, and stood to the S. for four hours, in order to keep clear of +the land; and at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small +barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to +the S.W. of Mowee. + +All prospect of examining more nearly the S.E. parts of Mowee being +now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the S.E. side of Tahoorowa. +As we were steering close round its western extremity, with an +intention of fetching the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our +water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks almost +right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when +we again steered to the northward; and, after passing over a bank, +with nineteen fathoms water, stood for a passage between Mowee and an +island called Ranai. At noon the latitude was by observation, 20 deg. 42' +N., and the longitude 203 deg. 22' E.; the southern extremity of Mowee +bearing E.S.E. 1/4 E.; the southern extremity of Ranai W.N.W. 1/4 W.; +Morotoi, N.W. and by N.; and the western extremity of Tahoorowa, S. +by E., seven miles distant. Our longitude was accurately deduced from +observations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared +with the longitude found by a great many distances of the moon from +the sun and stars, which were also observed the same day. + +In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the W., +we stood on to the N.N.W.; but at sun-set, observing a shoal, which +appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the W. point +of Mowee, toward the middle of the passage, and the weather being +unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the S. + +The S.W. side of this island, which we now had passed without being +able to get near the shore, forms the same distant view with the N.E., +as seen on our return from the N., in November 1778; the mountainous +parts, which are connected by a low flat isthmus, appearing at first +like two separate islands. This deception continued on the S.W. side, +till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the coast, which, +bending inward to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The +westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned runs, is +made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which there +is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the shore, and a number of +cocoa-nut trees growing about them. + +During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the +natives, who came off to sell provisions, and we soon found that they +had heard of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were +very curious to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed +herself on board the Resolution, in order to take her passage to +Atooi; enquiring eagerly after Pareea and some other chiefs, and +appearing much shocked at the death of Kaneena and his brother. We +had, however, the satisfaction to find that, in whatever light the +woman might have represented this business, it had no bad effect on +their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and submissive. + +The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning +of the 25th, having the wind at E., we ran along the S. side of Ranai, +till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till +evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the W. +part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from +the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the N.E., changed its +direction to the S.E. + +During the night, the wind was again variable; but early next morning +it settled at E., and blew so fresh as to oblige us to double-reef +the top-sails. At seven, in hauling round the W. point of Morotoi, we +opened a small bay, at the distance of about two leagues, with a fine +sandy beach; but seeing no appearance of fresh water, we stood on to +the N., in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we +had seen at our first visit in January 1778. + +At two in the afternoon, we saw the land bearing W. by N., eight +leagues distant; and having tacked as soon as it was dark, we again +bore away at day-light on the 27th; and at half-past ten, were within +a league of the shore, near the middle of the N.E. side of the island. + +The coast to the northward is formed of detached hills, rising +perpendicularly from the sea, with ragged and broken summits, the +sides covered with wood, and the vallies between them of a fertile and +well-cultivated appearance. To the southward we saw an extensive bay, +bounded by a low point of land to the S.E., which was covered with +cocoa-nut trees, and off it stood a high insulated rock, about a +mile from the shore. The haziness of the weather prevented our seeing +distinctly the land to the southward of the point, we could only +perceive that it was high and broken. + +As the wind continued to blow very fresh, we thought it dangerous to +entangle ourselves with a lee-shore, and therefore did not attempt to +examine the bay, but hauled up, and steered to the northward in the +direction of the coast. At noon, we were abreast of the N. point of +the island, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, +and has a reef stretching off it to the distance of near a mile and a +half. The latitude, by observation, 21 deg. 50' N., longitude 202 deg. 15' E., +the extreme parts of the island in sight bearing S.S.E. 1/4 E., and +S.W. by S. 3/4 W. + +Between the N. point and a distant head-land which we saw to the S.W., +the land bends inward considerably, and appeared likely to afford a +good road. We therefore directed our course along the shore, at the +distance of about a mile, carrying regular soundings from twenty to +thirteen fathoms. At a quarter past two, the sight of a fine river, +running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in +thirteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom; the extreme points of the +bay bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., and N.E. by E. 3/4 E., and the mouth of +the river S.E. 1/2 E., one mile distant. In the afternoon I attended +the two captains on shore, where we found but few of the natives, and +those mostly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to +fight Tahyterree, but that their chief, Perreeoranee, who had stayed +behind, would certainly visit us as soon as he heard of our arrival. + +We were much disappointed to find the water had a brackish taste for +two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marshy ground through +which it empties itself into the sea. Beyond this it was perfectly +fresh, and formed a fine running stream, along the side of which I +walked till I came to the conflux of two small rivulets, that branched +off to the right and left of a remarkably steep and romantic mountain. +The banks of this river, and indeed the whole we saw of the N.W. part +of Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of +the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturesque. + +As the watering at this place would have been attended with great +labour, I was sent to examine the coast to leeward; but not being able +to land, on account of a reef of coral which stretched along the shore +to the distance of half a mile, Captain Clerke determined, without +farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning we +weighed, and stood to the northward till day-light on the 28th, when +we bore away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon; and +about sun-set, were off its eastern extremity, which shews itself in a +fine green flat point. + +It being too late to run for the road on the S.W. side of the island, +where we had been the last year, we passed the night in plying on and +off, and at nine the next morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five +fathoms water, and moored with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, +the bluff-head on the west side of the village, bearing N.E. by N. 3/4 +E., two miles distant; the extremes of the island, N.W. by W. 3/4 W., +and S.E. by E. 1/2 E.; the island Oneeheow W. by S. 1/2 W. In running +down to the road, from the S.E. point of the island, we saw the +appearance of shoal water in several places, at a considerable +distance from the land; and when we were about two miles to the +eastward of the anchoring-place, and two or three miles from the +shore, we got into four and a half fathoms water, although our +soundings had usually been seven and eight fathoms. + +We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several canoes came +along-side of us; but we could observe that they did not welcome us +with the same cordiality in their manner, and satisfaction in their +countenances, as when we were here before. As soon as they got on +board, one of the men began to tell us, that we had left a disorder +amongst their women, of which several persons of both sexes had died. +He was himself afflicted with the venereal disease, and gave a very +full and minute account of the various symptoms with which it had been +attended. As there was not the slightest appearance of that disorder +amongst them on our first arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied +that we were the authors of this irreparable mischief. + +Our principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost +expedition; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, with the +pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner of the Resolution +accompanied me to trade for provisions, and we had a guard of five +marines. We found a considerable number of people collected upon the +beach, who received us at first with great kindness; but as soon as +we got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former +experience having taught me how difficult it was to repress this +disposition, without having recourse to the authority of their chiefs, +I was very sorry to find that they were all at another part of the +island. Indeed we soon felt the want of their assistance; for it was +with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our +usual practice, for the convenience and security of the trading party, +and had no sooner done it, and posted guards to keep off the crowd, +than I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldiers' +muskets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his +hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired, +but returned in a moment, with a spear in one hand and a dagger in the +other; and his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying +his prowess with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by the latter's +having given the man a slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make +him keep without the line. + +I now perceived that our situation required great circumspection and +management; and accordingly gave the strictest orders that no one +should fire, nor have recourse to any other act of violence, without +positive commands. As soon as I had given these directions, I was +called to the assistance of the watering party, where I found the +natives equally inclined to mischief. They had demanded from our +people a large hatchet for every cask of water, and this not being +complied with, they would not suffer the sailors to roll them down to +the boats. + +I had no sooner joined them than one of the natives advanced up to me, +with great insolence, and made the same claim. I told him that, as a +friend, I was very willing to present him with a hatchet, but that I +should certainly carry off the water without paying any thing for +it; and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their +business, and called three marines from the traders to protect them. + +Though this shew of spirit succeeded so far as to make the natives +desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, they still continued to +behave in the most teazing and provoking manner. Whilst some of them, +under pretence of assisting the men in rolling down the casks, turned +them out of their course, and gave them a wrong direction; others were +stealing the hats from off the sailors' heads, pulling them backward +by their clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd, +all this time, shouting and laughing, with a strange mixture of +childishness and malice. They afterward found means to steal the +cooper's bucket, and took away his bag by force; but the objects +they were most eager to possess themselves of were the muskets of the +marines, who were every instant complaining of their attempts to force +them out of their hands. Though they continued, for the most part, to +pay great deference and respect to me, yet they did not suffer me to +escape without contributing my share to their stock of plunder. One +of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great management +diverted my attention, whilst another, wrenching the hanger, which I +held carelessly in my hand, from me, ran off with it like lightning. + +It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by force; guarding +therefore against its effects, in the best manner we were able, we had +nothing to do but to submit patiently to it. My apprehensions were, +however, a little alarmed, by the information I soon after received +from the serjeant of marines, who told me that, turning suddenly +round, he saw a man behind me holding a dagger in the position of +striking. In this he might possibly be mistaken; yet our situation was +certainly alarming and critical, and the smallest error on our side +might have been fatal to us. As our people were separated into three +small parties, one at the lake filling casks; another rolling them +down to the shore; and the third, at some distance, purchasing +provisions; it had once occurred to me, that it might be proper to +collect them altogether, and to execute and protect one duty at a +time. But on second thoughts, I judged it more advisable to let them +continue as they were. In case of a real attack, our whole force, +however advantageously disposed, could have made but a poor +resistance. On the other hand, I thought it of some consequence to +shew the natives that we were under no fears; and, what was still more +material, the crowd was by this means kept divided, and a considerable +part of them fully employed in bartering provisions. + +It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms was the +principal cause of their backwardness in attacking us; and, indeed, +the confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by opposing +only five marines to their whole force, must have raised in them a +very high idea of our superiority. It was our business to keep up this +opinion as much as possible; and in justice to the whole party, I must +observe, that no men could possibly behave better, for the purpose of +strengthening these impressions. Whatever could be taken in jest, they +bore with the utmost temper and patience; and whenever any serious +attempt was made to interrupt them, they opposed it with bold looks +and menaces. By this management we succeeded so far as to get all the +casks down to the water side without any material accident. + +While we were getting them into the launch, the natives, perceiving +the opportunity of plundering would soon, be over, became every moment +more daring and insolent. On this occasion I was indebted to the +serjeant of marines, for suggesting to me the advantage that would +arise from sending off his party first into the boats; by which means +the muskets of the soldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were +the objects the islanders had principally in view, would be removed +out of their reach; and in case of an attack, the marines themselves +might be employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were +on shore. + +We had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr Anderson the +gunner, a seaman of the boat's crew, and myself, remained on shore. +As the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which we were obliged +to swim, I told them to make the best of their way to it, and that I +should follow them. With this order I was surprised to find them +both refuse to comply; and the consequence was a contest among us who +should be the last on shore. It seems that some hasty words I had just +before used to the sailor, which he thought reflected on his courage, +was the cause of this odd fancy in him; and the old gunner, finding a +point of honour started, thought he could not well avoid taking a part +in it. In this ridiculous situation we might have remained some time, +had not our dispute been soon settled by the stones that began to +fly about us, and by the cries of the people from the boats, to make +haste, as the natives were following us into the water with clubs +and spears. I reached the side of the pinnace first, and finding Mr +Anderson was at some distance behind, and not yet entirely out of +danger, I called out to the marines to fire one musket. In the hurry +of executing my orders, they fired two; and when I had got into the +boat I saw the natives running away, and one man, with a woman sitting +by him, left behind on the beach. The man made several attempts to +rise without being able; and it was with much regret, I perceived +him to be wounded in the groin. The natives soon after returned, and +surrounded the wounded man, brandishing their spears and daggers at +us, with an air of threatening and defiance; but before we reached +the ships, we saw some persons, whom we supposed to be the chiefs, now +arrived, driving them away from the shore. + +During our absence, Captain Clerke had been under the greatest anxiety +for our safety. And these apprehensions were considerably increased, +from his having entirely mistaken the drift of the conversation he had +held with some natives who had been on board. The frequent mention +of the name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial +descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude, that the +knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and +that these were what they alluded to; whereas all they had in view +was, to make known to him the wars that had arisen, in consequence of +the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the slaughter +of the poor goats themselves, during the struggle for the property of +them. Captain Clerke, applying this earnestness of conversation, and +these terrible representations, to our calamitous transactions at +Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, kept his telescope fixed +upon us, and the moment he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the +boats to be manned and armed, and to put off to our assistance. + +The next morning I was again ordered on shore, with the watering +party. The risk we had run the preceding day, determined Captain +Clerke to send a considerable force from both ships for our guard, +amounting in all to forty men under arms. This precaution, however, +was now unnecessary; for we found the beach left entirely to +ourselves, and the ground between the landing-place and the lake +_tabooed_ with small white flags. We concluded, from this appearance, +that some of the chiefs had certainly visited this quarter; and that +not being able to stay, they had kindly and considerately taken this +step, for our greater security and convenience. We saw several men +armed with long spears and daggers, on the other side of the river, +on our right; but they did not offer to give us the least molestation. +Their women came over, and sat down on the banks close by us, and at +noon we prevailed on some of the men to bring hogs and roots for our +people, and to dress them for us. As soon as we had left the beach, +they came down to the sea-side, and one of them threw a stone at us; +but his conduct seeming to be highly disapproved of by all the rest, +we did not think it proper to shew any resentment. + +The next day we completed our watering, without meeting with any +material difficulty. On our return to the ships, we found that several +chiefs had been on board, and had made excuses for the behaviour of +their countrymen, attributing their riotous conduct to the quarrels +which subsisted at that time amongst the principal people of +the island, and which had occasioned a general want of order and +subordination amongst them. The government of Atooi was in dispute +between Toneoneo, who had the supreme power when we were here last +year, and a boy named Teavee. They are both, by different fathers, +the grandsons of Perreeorannee, king of Woahoo, who had given the +government of Atooi to the former, and that of Oneeheow to the latter. +The quarrel had arisen about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the +last year; the right of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on +the pretence of that island's being a dependency of his. The friends +of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both parties prepared +to maintain their pretensions by force; and a few days before our +arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been worsted. +The consequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a +much deeper manner than by the mere loss of the objects in dispute; +for the mother of Teavee having married a second husband, who was +a chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he +thought that the present opportunity was not to be neglected, of +driving Toneoneo entirely out of the island, and of advancing his +son-in-law to the government. I have already had occasion to mention, +that the goats, which had increased to the number of six, and would +probably in a few years have stocked all these islands, were destroyed +in the contest. + +On the 4th, the mother and sister of the young prince and his +father-in-law, with many other chiefs of that party, came on board the +Resolution, and made several curious and valuable presents to Captain +Clerke. Amongst the former, were some fish-hooks, which they assured +us were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, who +had been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon the island of Woahoo; +and a fly-flap, presented to him by the prince's sister, the handle +of which was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her +father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as +we were told, in performing some religious ceremonies, in consequence +of the victory he had obtained, which were to last twenty days. + +This and the two following days were employed on shore, in completing +the Discovery's water; and the carpenters were busy on board, in +caulking the ships, and in making other preparations for our next +cruise. The natives desisted from giving us any further disturbance, +and we procured from them a plentiful supply of pork and vegetables. + +At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the +Discovery, to be fashioned into the shape of a _pahooah_. It was +carefully examined both by the officers and men, and appeared to be +the bolt of some large ship-timbers. They were not able to discover to +what nation it belonged; but from the pale colour[1] of the iron, and +its not corresponding in shape to our bolts, they concluded that it +certainly was not English. This led them to make a strict enquiry of +the native, when and where he got it; and, if they comprehended him +right, it had been taken out of a piece of timber, larger than the +cable-bit, to which he pointed. This piece of wood, they farther +understood from, him, to have been driven upon their island, since we +were here in January 1778. + +[Footnote 1: It was evident, that the iron we found in possession of +the natives at Nootka Sound, and which was mostly made into knives, +was of a much paler sort than ours.] + +On the 7th, we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. When +he heard the dowager-princess was in the ship, it was with great +difficulty we could prevail on him to come on board, not from any +apprehension that he appeared to entertain of his safety, but from an +unwillingness to see her. Their meeting was with sulky and lowering +looks on both sides. He staid but a short time, and seemed much +dejected; but we remarked, with some surprise, that the women, both at +his coming and going way, prostrated themselves before him; and that +he was treated by all the natives on board with the respect +usually paid to those of his rank. Indeed, it must appear somewhat +extraordinary, that a person who was at this time in a state of actual +hostility with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another +battle, should trust himself almost alone within the power of his +enemies. It is therefore to be observed, that the civil dissentions, +which are very frequent throughout all the South-Sea Islands, seem to +be carried on without much acrimony or bloodshed; and that the deposed +governor still continues to enjoy the rank of an _Eree_, and is left +to make use of such means as may arise for the regaining his lost +consequence. But I shall have occasion to speak more particularly on +this subject in the next section; in which the best account will be +given, which we were able to collect, of the political state of those +countries. + +On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and sailed toward +Oneeheow; and at three in the afternoon anchored in twenty fathoms +water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. We moored with the +other anchor in twenty-six fathoms water. The high bluff, on the south +end of the island, bore E.S.E.; the north point of the road, N. 1/2 E; +and a bluff head to the south of it, N.E. by N. During the night, we +had a strong gale from the eastward; and, in the morning of the 9th, +found the ship had driven a whole cable's length, and brought both +anchors almost ahead. We shortened in the best bower-cable; but the +wind blowing too fresh to unmoor, we were obliged to remain this and +the two following days with the anchors still ahead. + +On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was sent to the +north-west side of the island, to look for a more convenient place for +anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, close round the +west point of the road where we now lay, which is also the westernmost +point of the island, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen +fathoms water, a clear sandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on +which the surf beats, but not so as to hinder landing. The direction +of the points of the bay were N. by E., and S. by W.; and, in that +line, the soundings seven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the north +side of the bay was a small village; and a quarter of a mile to the +eastward were four small wells of good water; the road to them level, +and fit for rolling casks. Mr Bligh went afterward so far to the +north as to satisfy himself, that Oreehoua was a separate island from +Oneeheow, and that there was a passage between them, which before we +only conjectured to exist. + +In the afternoon we hoisted in all the boats, and made ready for going +to sea in the morning. + +END OF VOLUME SIXTEENTH. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Volume 16, by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GENERAL HISTORY AND *** + +***** This file should be named 16471.txt or 16471.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/4/7/16471/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. +Produced from images generously made available by the +Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** + diff --git a/16471.zip b/16471.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d328d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/16471.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..451e1f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #16471 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16471) |