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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:48:44 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16378-8.txt b/16378-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c8df7b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/16378-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9137 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Art of Perfumery, by G. W. Septimus Piesse + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Art of Perfumery + And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants + +Author: G. W. Septimus Piesse + +Release Date: July 28, 2005 [EBook #16378] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF PERFUMERY *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + +Transcriber's note: Footnotes moved to end of text + + +The Art + +OF + +PERFUMERY, + +AND METHOD OF OBTAINING + +THE ODORS OF PLANTS. + +[Illustration: DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS.] + +From the rafters of the roof of the Drying House are suspended in +bunches all the herbs that the grower cultivates. To accelerate the +desiccation of rose leaves and other petals, the Drying House is fitted +up with large cupboards, which are slightly warmed with a convolving +flue, heated from a fire below. + +The flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas stretched upon a +frame rack, being not less than twelve feet long by four feet wide. When +charged they are placed on shelves in the warm cupboards till dry. + + + + +THE ART OF PERFUMERY, + +AND METHOD OF OBTAINING THE ODORS OF PLANTS, + +WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, +SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, COSMETIQUES, +PERFUMED SOAP, ETC. + +WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, +ETC. ETC. + +[Illustration] + +BY G.W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE, + +AUTHOR OF THE "ODORS OF FLOWERS," ETC. ETC. + + * * * * * + +PHILADELPHIA: +LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. +1857. + +PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN & SON, +19 St. James Street. + + + + +Preface. + + +By universal consent, the physical faculties of man have been divided +into five senses,--seeing, hearing, touching, tasting, and smelling. It +is of matter pertaining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly +treats. Of the five senses, that of smelling is the least valued, and, +as a consequence, is the least tutored; but we must not conclude from +this, our own act, that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare +and happiness. + +By neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve, we are constantly led to +breathe impure air, and thus poison the body by neglecting the warning +given at the gate of the lungs. Persons who use perfumes are more +sensitive to the presence of a vitiated atmosphere than those who +consider the faculty of smelling as an almost useless gift. + +In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes was in constant +practice, and it had the high sanction of Scriptural authority. + +The patrons of perfumery have always been considered the most civilized +and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing how +to enjoy the faculties which we possess, then must we learn not only how +to distinguish the harmony of color and form, in order to please the +sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear; the comfort of +appropriate fabrics to cover the body, and to please the touch, but the +smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself with the +odoriferous products of the garden and the forest. + +Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes is in the highest degree +prophylactic; the refreshing qualities of the citrine odors to an +invalid is well known. Health has often been restored when life and +death trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of +cedrat in a sick chamber. + +The commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance to the wealth +of nations. But, vast as is the consumption of perfumes by the people +under the rule of the British Empire, little has been done in England +towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw +odorous substances in demand by the manufacturing perfumers of Britain; +consequently nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries. +However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the +attention of the Society of Arts, and favorable results will doubtless +follow. Much of the waste land in England, and especially in Ireland, +could be very profitably employed if cultivated with odor-bearing +plants. + +The climate of some of the British colonies especially fits them for the +production of odors from flowers that require elevated temperature to +bring them to perfection. + +But for the lamented death of Mr. Charles Piesse,[A] Colonial Secretary +for Western Australia, I have every reason to believe that flower-farms +would have been established in that colony long ere the publication of +this work. Though thus personally frustrated in adapting a new and +useful description of labor to British enterprise, I am no less sanguine +of the final result in other hands. + +Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent to England some fine samples +of Oil of Behn. The Moringa, from which it is produced, has been +successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly +inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of +flowers by the maceration process. + +At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace, +Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to +illustrate the commercial use of flowers--eye-lectures on the methods of +obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses. The +horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the +methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate, +entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For many +ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the Cornish +miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus cast away by +ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel between the old +miners and the modern gardeners. + +Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of +Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much +matter that has already passed under their eyes. + +To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book +form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals +all that I considered might be useful to the reader. + +To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W. Bastick, I +respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely +given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice. + + + + +Contents. + + +PREFACE + + +SECTION I. + +INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. + +Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of +its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or +Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to +Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the +Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious +People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense in the Romish +Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of Perfume--Composition of the +Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St. Ephræm's Will--Fragrant +Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the +Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume Drugs--The Art of +Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's admirable Remarks on +Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance +of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of France the principal Seat of +the Art--England noted for Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one +Perfume--Odor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential +Oil or Otto + + +SECTION II. + +Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the Odors:--Expression, +Distillation, Maceration, Absorption + + +SECTION III. + +Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of +1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of +Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, +Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, +Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, +Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, +Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, +Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, +Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, +Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, +Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, +Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, +Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity imported--Statistics, +&c. + + +SECTION IV. + +ANIMAL PERFUMES. + +Ambergris--Civet--Musk + + +SECTION V. + +SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, +Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile + +ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar, +Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic +Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne + + +SECTION VI. + +BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. + +Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of +Plants + +COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus +Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val +d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Délices--The Court Nosegay--Eau de +Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de +Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt +Bouquet--Extract of Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian +Nosegay--English Jockey Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the +Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn +Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden +Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs et Lavender--Delcroix's +Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet de Montpellier--Caprice de la +Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval Nosegay--Bouquet of all +Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du Roi--Bouquet de la Reine +Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) +Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood +Violet--Windsor Castle Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay + + +SECTION VII. + +The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from the Use +of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick Castle--Sachet +Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet à la Frangipanne--Heliotrope +Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet à la +Maréchale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly +Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood +Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet +Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed +Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers + +Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the +Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's +Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume +Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau à Bruler--Eau pour Bruler--Fumigating +Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters + + +SECTION VIII. + +PERFUMED SOAP. + +Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap Trade +in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary Soaps--Curd +Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow Soap--Palm +Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft Soap--The +remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented Soaps + +Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor Soap--Brown Windsor +Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps +Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue, Brown Soaps--Otto of Rose +Soap--Tonquin Musk Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood +Soap--Spermaceti Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly +Soap--Soft or Potash Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap +Powders--Rypophagon Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft +Soap--Transparent hard Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine +Soap--Sulphur Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton +Oil Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases + + +SECTION IX. + +EMULSINES. + +Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to +Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond +Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet +Emulsion + + +SECTION X. + +MILKS OR EMULSIONS. + +Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of Almonds--Milk of +Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of +Pistachio Nuts--Lait Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers + + +SECTION XI. + +COLD CREAM. + +Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation Violet +Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold Cream--Cucumber +Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond +Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip +Salve--White Lip Salve--Common Lip Salve + + +SECTION XII. + +POMADES AND OILS. + +Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless +Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie +Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade called +Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of Flowers--Crystallized +Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow +Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade Double, Millefleurs--Pomade à la +Heliotrope--Huile Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick +Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique + + +SECTION XIII. + +HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. + +Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the Smoke +of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and +Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra Dye--Litharge +Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous Dye--Brown and Black +Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory, Rusma + + +SECTION XIV. + +ABSORBENT POWDERS. + +Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for +Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of +Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink Saucers--Crépon +Rouge + + +SECTION XV. + +TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES. + +Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth Powder--Prepared +Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic Chalk--Cuttle-Fish +Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's Dentifrice--Rose Tooth +Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic +Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and Borax--Myrrh with Eau de +Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne + + +SECTION XVI. + +HAIR WASHES. + +Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair +Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous Wash--Egg +Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline + + + + +Contents of Appendix. + + +Manufacture of Glycerine + +Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils + +Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil + +Coloring matter of Volatile Oils + +Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon + +Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil + +The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce + +Concentrated Elder Water + +ARNALL on Spirits of Wine + +Purification of Spirits by Filtration + +COBB on Otto of Lemons + +BASTICK on Benzoic Acid + +On the Coloring matters of Flowers + +Bleaching Bees' Wax + +Chemical Examination of Naples Soap + +Manufacture of Soap + +How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap + +On the Natural Fats + +Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness + +BASTICK on Fusel Oil + +BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor + +WAGNER'S Essence of Quince + +Preparation of Rum-ether + +Artificial Fruit essences + +Volatile Oil of Gaultheria + +Application of Chemistry to Perfumery + +Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts + +Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants + +French and English Weights and Measures compared + + + + +Illustrations. + + +Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.) + +Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.) + +Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water + +Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil + +The Almond + +Styrax Benzoin + +Cassie Buds + +The Clove + +The Jasmine + +The Orange + +The Patchouly Plant + +Santal-Wood + +Tonquin + +Vanilla + +Vitivert + +Civet Cat + +Musk Pod + +Musk Deer + +The Censer + +Perfume Lamp + +Slab Soap Gauge + +Barring Gauge + +Squaring Gauge + +Soap Scoops + +Soap Press + +Moulds + +Soap Plane + +Oil Runner + + + + +THE ART OF PERFUMERY. + + + + +INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. + +SECTION I. + + "By Nature's swift and secret working hand + The garden glows, and fills the liberal air + With lavish odors. + There let me draw + Ethereal soul, there drink reviving gales, + Profusely breathing from the spicy groves + And vales of fragrance."--THOMSON. + + +Among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of +flowers, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands +pre-eminent. It is proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have +been in use from the earliest periods. The origin of this, like that of +many other arts, is lost in the depth of its antiquity; though it had +its rise, no doubt, in religious observances. Among the nations of +antiquity, an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most +profound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes by +incision and dries as a gum, from _Arbor-thurifera_, was formerly burnt +in the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that were +there adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death because +they would not offer incense to idols. + + "Of the use of these luxuries by the Greeks, and afterwards by the + Romans, Pliny and Seneca gives much information respecting perfume + drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they + sold. Oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used, for even + three times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint and + scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to + the baths in costly and elegant boxes called NARTHECIA." + +In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies, and +particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and other +personages of exalted rank. + +Pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is procured, and +certain passages in his works indicate that dried flowers were used in +his time by way of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed with +spices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls _pot-pourri_, used +for scenting apartments, and generally placed in some ornamental Vase. + +It was not uncommon among the Egyptian ladies to carry about the person +a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the case to the present day +among the Chinese, and to wear beads made of scented wood. The +"bdellium" mentioned by Moses in Genesis is a perfuming gum, resembling +frankincense, if not identical with it. + +Several passages in Exodus prove the use of perfumes at a very early +period among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the Lord +said unto Moses: "1. And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon; +of Shittim wood shalt thou make it." "7. And Aaron shall burn thereon +sweet incense every morning; when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn +incense upon it." "34. Take unto thee sweet spices, stacte, and onycha, +and galbanum; these sweet spices with pure frankincense: of each shall +there be a like weight." "35. And thou shalt make it a perfume, a +confection after the art of the apothecary, tempered together pure and +holy." "36. And thou shalt beat some of it very small, and put of it +before the testimony in the tabernacle of the congregation, where I will +meet with thee; it shall be unto you most holy." "37. And as for the +perfume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according +to the composition thereof; it shall be unto thee holy for the Lord." +"38. Whosoever shall make like unto that to smell thereto, shall even be +cut off from his people." + + "It was from this religious custom, of employing incense in the + ancient temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile + of his, when he petitioned that his prayers might ascend before + the Lord like incense, Luke 1:10. It was while all the multitude + was praying without, at the hour of incense, that there appeared + to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the right side of the + altar of incense. That the nations attached a meaning not only of + personal reverence, but also of religious homage, to an offering + of incense, is demonstrable from the instance of the Magi, who, + having fallen down to adore the new-born Jesus, and recognized his + Divinity, presented Him with gold, myrrh and frankincense. The + primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted + the use of incense at the celebration of the Liturgy. St. Ephræm, + a father of the Syriac Church, directed in his will that no + aromatic perfumes should be bestowed upon him at his funeral, but + that the spices should rather be given to the sanctuary. The use + of incense in all the Oriental churches is perpetual, and almost + daily; nor do any of them ever celebrate their Liturgy without it, + unless compelled by necessity. The Coptic, as well as other + Eastern Christians, observe the same ceremonial as the Latin + Church in incensing their altar, the sacred vessels, and + ecclesiastical personages."--DR. ROCK'S _Hierurgia_. + +Perfumes were used in the Church service, not only under the form of +incense, but also mixed in the oil and wax for the lamps and lights +commanded to be burned in the house of the Lord. The brilliancy and +fragrance which were often shed around a martyr's sepulchre, at the +celebration of his festival, by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with +aromatics, have been noticed by St. Paulinus:-- + + "With crowded lamps are these bright altars crowned, + And waxen tapers, shedding perfume round + From fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray, + To gladden night, and joy e'en radiant day." + + DR. ROCK'S _Hierurgia_. + +Constantine the Great provided fragrant oils, to be burned at the altars +of the greater churches in Rome; and St. Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of +the end of the fourth and beginning of the fifth century, tells us how, +in his times, wax tapers were made for church use, so as to shed +fragrance as they burned:-- + + "Lumina cerates adolentur odora papyris." + +A perfume in common use, even to this day, was the invention of one of +the earliest of the Roman nobles, named Frangipani, and still bears his +name; it is a powder, or sachet, composed of every known spice, in equal +proportions, to which is added ground iris or orris root, in weight +equal to the whole, with one per cent. of musk or civet. A liquid of the +same name, invented by his grandson Mercutio Frangipani, is also in +common use, prepared by digesting the Frangipane powder in rectified +spirits, which dissolves out the fragrant principles. This has the merit +of being the most lasting perfume made. + + "The trade for the East in perfume-drugs caused many a vessel to + spread its sails to the Red Sea, and many a camel to plod over + that tract which gave to Greece and Syria their importance as + markets, and vitality to the rocky city of Petra. Southern Italy + was not long ere it occupied itself in ministering to the luxury + of the wealthy, by manufacturing scented unguents and perfumes. So + numerous were the UNGUENTARII, or perfumers, that they + are said to have filled the great street of ancient + Capua."--HOFMANN. + +As an art, in England, perfumery has attained little or no distinction. +This has arisen from those who follow it as a trade, maintaining a +mysterious secrecy about their processes. No manufacture can ever become +great or important to the community that is carried on under a veil of +mystery. + + "On the subject of trade mystery I will only observe, that I am + convinced that it would be far more to the interest of + manufacturers if they were more willing to profit by the + experience of others, and less fearful and jealous of the supposed + secrets of their craft. It is a great mistake to think that a + successful manufacturer is one who has carefully preserved the + secrets of his trade, or that peculiar modes of effecting simple + things, processes unknown in other factories, and mysteries beyond + the comprehension of the vulgar, are in any way essential to skill + as a manufacturer, or to success as a trader."--PROFESSOR + SOLLY. + +If the horticulturists of England were instructed how to collect the +odors of flowers, a new branch of manufacture would spring up to vie +with our neighbors' skill in it across the Channel. + +Of our five senses, that of SMELLING has been treated with +comparative indifference. However, as knowledge progresses, the various +faculties with which the Creator has thought proper in his wisdom to +endow man will become developed, and the faculty of Smelling will meet +with its share of tuition as well as Sight, Hearing, Touch, and Taste. + +Flowers yield perfumes in all climates, but those growing in the warmer +latitudes are most prolific in their odor, while those from the colder +are the sweetest. Hooker, in his travels in Iceland, speaks of the +delightful fragrance of the flowers in the valley of Skardsheidi; we +know that winter-green, violets, and primroses are found here, and the +wild thyme, in great abundance. Mr. Louis Piesse, in company with +Captain Sturt, exploring the wild regions of South Australia, writes: +"The rains have clothed the earth with a green as beautiful as a +Shropshire meadow in May, and with flowers, too, as sweet as an English +violet; the pure white anemone resembles it in scent. The Yellow Wattle, +when in flower, is splendid, and emits a most fragrant odor." + +Though many of the finest perfumes come from the East Indies, Ceylon, +Mexico, and Peru, the South of Europe is the only real garden of utility +to the perfumer. Grasse and Nice are the principal seats of the art; +from their geographical position, the grower, within comparatively short +distances, has at command that change of climate best fitted to bring to +perfection the plants required for his trade. On the seacoast his Cassiæ +grows without fear of frost, one night of which would destroy all the +plants for a season; while, nearer the Alps, his violets are found +sweeter than if grown in the warmer situations, where the orange tree +and mignionette bloom to perfection. England can claim the superiority +in the growth of lavender and peppermint; the essential oils extracted +from these plants grown at Mitcham, in Surrey, realize eight times the +price in the market of those produced in France or elsewhere, and are +fully worth the difference for delicacy of odor. + +The odors of plants reside in different parts of them, sometimes in the +roots, as in the iris and vitivert; the stem or wood, in cedar and +sandal; the leaves, in mint, patchouly, and thyme; the flower, in the +roses and violets; the seeds in the Tonquin bean and caraway; the bark, +in cinnamon, &c. + +Some plants yield more than one odor, which are quite distinct and +characteristic. The orange tree, for instance, gives three--from the +leaves one called _petit grain_; from the flowers we procure _neroli_; +and from the rind of the fruit, essential oil of orange, _essence of +Portugal_. On this account, perhaps, this tree is the most valuable of +all to the operative perfumer. + +The fragrance or odor of plants is owing, in nearly all cases, to a +perfectly volatile oil, either contained in small vessels, or sacs +within them, or generated from time to time, during their life, as when +in blossom. Some few exude, by incision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin, +olibanum, myrrh, &c.; others give, by the same act, what are called +balsams, which appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous +gum. Some of these balsams are procured in the country to which the +plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a time, straining, and +then boiling again, or evaporating it down till it assumes the +consistency of treacle. In this latter way is balsam of Peru procured +from the _Myroxylon peruiferum_, and the balsam of Tolu from the +_Myroxylon toluiferum_. Though their odors are agreeable, they are not +much applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by some they are +mixed with soap, and in England they are valued more for their medicinal +properties than for their fragrance. + + + + +SECTION II. + + "Were not summer's distillations left + A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass, + Beauty's effect with beauty were bereft, + Nor it, nor no remembrance what it was; + But flowers distilled, though they with winter meet, + Leese but their show, their substance still lives sweet." + + SHAKSPEARE. + + +The extensive flower farms in the neighborhood of Nice, Grasse, +Montpellier, and Cannes, in France, at Adrianople (Turkey in Asia), at +Broussa and Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a +measure indicate the commercial importance of that branch of chemistry +called perfumery. + +British India and Europe consume annually, at the very lowest estimate, +150,000 gallons of perfumed spirits, under various titles, such as eau +de Cologne, essence of lavender, esprit de rose, &c. The art of +perfumery does not, however, confine itself to the production of scents +for the handkerchief and bath, but extends to imparting odor to +inodorous bodies, such as soap, oil, starch, and grease, which are +consumed at the toilette of fashion. Some idea of the commercial +importance of this art may be formed, when we state that one of the +large perfumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs. of +orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers, 54,000 lbs. of +rose-leaves, 32,000 lbs. of jasmine blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets, +20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, besides rosemary, mint, +lemon, citron, thyme, and other odorous plants in large proportion. In +fact, the quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far +beyond the conception of those even used to abstract statistics. + +To the chemical philosopher, the study of perfumery opens a book as yet +unread; for the practical perfumer, on his laboratory shelves, exhibits +many rare essential oils, such as essential oil of the flower of the +_Acacia farnesiana_, essential oil of violets, tubereuse, jasmine, and +others, the compositions of which have yet to be determined. + +The exquisite pleasure derived from smelling fragrant flowers would +almost instinctively induce man to attempt to separate the odoriferous +principle from them, so as to have the perfume when the season denies +the flowers. Thus we find the alchemists of old, torturing the plants in +every way their invention could devise for this end; and it is on their +experiments that the whole art of perfumery has been reared. Without +recapitulating those facts which may be found diffused through nearly +all the old authors on medical botany, chemistry, pharmacy, and works of +this character, from the time of Paracelsus to Celnart, we may state at +once the mode of operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the +present day for preparing the various extracts or essences, waters, +oils, pomades, &c., used in his calling. + +The processes are divided into four distinct operations; viz.-- + +1. _Expression_; 2. _Distillation_; 3. _Maceration_; 4. _Absorption_. + +1. _Expression_ is only adopted where the plant is very prolific in its +volatile or essential oil,--_i.e._ its odor; such, for instance, as is +found in the pellicle or outer peel of the orange, lemon, and citron, +and a few others. In these cases, the parts of the plant containing the +odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth bag, and at others by +themselves into a press, and by mere mechanical force it is squeezed +out. The press is an iron vessel of immense strength, varying in size +from six inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain +one hundred weight or more; it has a small aperture at the bottom to +allow the expressed material to run for collection; in the interior is +placed a perforated false bottom, and on this the substance to be +squeezed is placed, covered with an iron plate fitting the interior; +this is connected with a powerful screw, which, being turned, forces the +substance so closely together, that the little vessels containing the +essential oils are burst, and it thus escapes. The common tincture press +is indeed a model of such an instrument. The oils which are thus +collected are contaminated with watery extracts, which exudes at the +same time, and from which it has to be separated; this it does by itself +in a measure, by standing in a quiet place, and it is then poured off +and strained. + +[Illustration: Pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water.] + +2. _Distillation._--The plant, or part of it, which contains the +odoriferous principle, is placed in an iron, copper, or glass pan, +varying in size from that capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, +and covered with water; to the pan a dome-shaped lid is fitted, +terminating with a pipe, which is twisted corkscrew fashion, and fixed +in a bucket, with the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel. The water +in the still--for such is the name of the apparatus--is made to boil; +and having no other exit, the steam must pass through the coiled pipe; +which, being surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses the +vapor before it can arrive at the tap. With the steam, the volatile +oils--_i.e._ perfume--rises, and is liquefied at the same time. The +liquids which thus run over, on standing for a time, separate into two +portions, and are finally divided with a funnel having a stopcock in the +narrow part of it. By this process, the majority of the volatile or +essential oils are procured. In some few instances alcohol--_i.e._ +rectified spirit of wine--is placed upon the odorous materials in lieu +of water, which, on being distilled, comes away with the perfuming +substance dissolved in it. But this process is now nearly obsolete, as +it is found more beneficial to draw the oil or essence first with water, +and afterwards to dissolve it in the spirit. The low temperature at +which spirit boils, compared with water, causes a great loss of +essential oil, the heat not being sufficient to disengage it from the +plant, especially where seeds such as cloves or caraway are employed. It +so happens, however, that the finest odors, the _recherché_ as the +Parisians say, cannot be procured by this method; then recourse is had +to the next process. + +[Illustration: Tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits +from oil.] + +3. _Maceration._--Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of +flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the least +understood in England; as this operation yields not only the most +exquisite essences indirectly, but also nearly all those fine pomades +known here as "French pomatums," so much admired for the strength of +fragrance, together with "French oils" equally perfumed. The operation +is conducted thus:--For what is called pomade, a certain quantity of +purified mutton or deer suet is put into a clean metal or porcelain pan, +this being melted by a steam heat; the kind of flowers required for the +odor wanted are carefully picked and put into the liquid fat, and +allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours; the fat has a +particular affinity or attraction for the oil of flowers, and thus, as +it were, draws it out of them, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly +perfumed; the fat is strained from the spent flowers, and fresh are +added four or five times over, till the pomade is of the required +strength; these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French +makers as Nos. 6, 12, 18, and 24, the higher numerals indicating the +amount of fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation is +followed; but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived +from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, and the same results are +obtained. These oils are called "Huile Antique" of such and such a +flower. + +When neither of the foregoing processes gives satisfactory results, the +method of procedure adopted is by,-- + +4. _Absorption_, or _Enfleurage._--The odors of some flowers are so +delicate and volatile, that the heat required in the previously named +processes would greatly modify, if not entirely spoil them; this +process is, therefore, conducted cold, thus:--Square frames, about three +inches deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, +are procured; over the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an +inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula; into this the +flower buds are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged completely over it, and +there left from twelve to seventy-two hours. + +Some houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and Sons; Pascal Brothers; H. +Herman, and a few others, have 3000 such frames at work during the +season; as they are filled, they are piled one over the other, the +flowers are changed so long as the plants continue to bloom, which now +and then exceeds two or three months. + +For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are imbued with the +finest olive oil or oil of ben, and stretched upon a frame made of iron; +on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. This +operation is repeated several times, after which the cloths are +subjected to great pressure, to remove the now perfumed oil. + +As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the +reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come +to speak of the individual flower or plant. + + + + +SECTION III. + + +Whenever a Still is named, or an article is said to be distilled or +"drawn," it must be understood to be done so by steam apparatus, as this +is the only mode which can be adopted for obtaining anything like a +delicate odor; the old plan of having the fire immediately under the +still, conveying an empyreumatic or burnt smell to the result, has +become obsolete in every well-regulated perfumatory. + +The steam-still differs from the one described only in the lower part, +or pan, which is made double, so as to allow steam from a boiler to +circulate round the pan for the purpose of boiling the contents, instead +of the direct fire. In macerating, the heat is applied in the same way, +or by a contrivance like the common glue-pot, as made use of nowadays. + +This description of apparatus will be found very useful for experiments +which we will suggest by-and-by. + +The perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops of Paris and +London, are either simple or compound; the former are called extracts, +_extraits_, _esprits_, or essences, and the latter _bouquets_ and +nosegays, which are mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity +that no one flower or odor can be discovered as predominating over +another; and when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully +blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the olfactory nerve, +and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to purchase them. + +We shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple extracts of +flowers. This will be followed by the process for preparing ambergris, +musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin, are of the +utmost importance as forming a large part in the most approved bouquets; +and we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for all +the fashionable bouquets and nosegays, the value of which, we doubt not, +will be estimated according to the labor bestowed upon their analysis. + +In order to render the work more easy of consultation, we have adopted +the alphabetical arrangement in preference to a more scientific +classification. + +Among the collection of ottos of the East India Company at the +Exhibition of 1851, were several hitherto unknown in this country, and +possessing much interest. + +It is to be regretted, that no person having any practical knowledge of +perfumery was placed on the jury of Class IV or XXIX. Had such been the +case, the desires of the exhibitors would probably have been realized, +and European perfumers benefited by the introduction of new odors from +the East. Some of the ottos sent by a native perfumer of Benares were +deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as _Chumeylee_, _Beyla_, +_Begla_, _Moteya_, and many others from the Moluccas, but without any +information respecting them. + +We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than a tithe of the plants +that have a perfume--only those will be mentioned that are used by the +operative perfumer, and such as are imitated by him in consequence of +there being a demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him +from obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under our +notice is-- + +ALLSPICE.--The odoriferous principle of allspice, commonly +called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried fruit, before it is +quite ripe, of the _Eugenia pimenta_ and _Myrtus pimenta_ with water. It +is thus procured as an essential oil; it is but little used in +perfumery, and when so, only in combination with other spice oils; for +scenting soap it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the +smell of cloves, and deserves more attention than it has hitherto +received. Mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with +one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms what may be termed +extract of allspice, which extract will be found very useful in the +manufacture of low-priced bouquets. + +ALMONDS. + + "Mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood; + If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load, + The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign, + Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain." + + VIRGIL. + +This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages. It may be procured by +distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe, and the kernels of +stone fruit; for trade purposes, it is obtained from the bitter +almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after +it is shelled. In the ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press +for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the cake +which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water, and +allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to +distillation. The reason for moistening the cake is well understood to +the practical chemist, and although we are not treating the subject of +perfumery in a chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not +be inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds does +not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that it is produced +by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and emulsine contained +in the almonds, together with the water that is added. Analogous +substances exist in laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be +pursued when they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened +cake into a bag of coarse cloth, or spread it upon a sieve, and then +force the stream through it; in either case, the essential oil of the +almond rises with the watery vapor, and is condensed in the still-worm. +In this concentrated form, the odor of almonds is far from agreeable; +but when diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half +ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very pleasant. + +[Illustration: Almond.] + +The essential oil of almonds, enters into combination with soap, cold +cream, and many other materials prepared by the perfumer; for which see +their respective titles. + +Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential oil. + +In experiments with this substance, it must be carefully remembered that +it is exceedingly _poisonous_, and, therefore, great caution is +necessary in its admixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise +dangerous results may ensue. + +_Artificial Otto of Almonds._--Five or six years ago, Mr. Mansfield, of +Weybridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from +benzole. (Benzole is obtained from tar oil.) His apparatus, according to +the Report of the juries of the 1851 Exhibition, consists of a large +glass tube in the form of a coil, which at the upper end divides into +two tubes; each of which is provided with a funnel. A stream of nitric +acid flows slowly into one of the funnels, and benzole into the other. +The two substances meet at the point of union of the tubes, and a +combination ensues with the evolution of heat. As the newly formed +compound flows down through the coil it becomes cool, and is collected +at the lower extremity; it then requires to be washed with water, and +lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to render it fit for +use. Nitro-benzole, which is the chemical name for this artificial otto +of almonds, has a different odor to the true otto of almonds, but it can +nevertheless be used for perfuming soap. Mr. Mansfield writes to me +under date of January 3d, 1855:--"In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three +King Court, began to make this perfume under my license; latterly I +withdrew the license from them by their consent, and since then it is +not made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris. + +ANISE.--The odorous principle is procured by distilling the +seeds of the plant _Pimpinella anisum_; the product is the oil of +aniseed of commerce. As it congeals at a temperature of about 50° Fahr., +it is frequently adulterated with a little spermaceti, to give a certain +solidity to it, whereby other cheaper essential oils can be added to it +with less chance of detection. As the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in +spirit, and the spermaceti insoluble, the fraud is easily detected. + +This perfume is exceedingly strong, and is, therefore, well adapted for +mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums, but does not do nicely in +compounds for handkerchief use. + +BALM, oil of Balm, called also oil of Melissa, is obtained by +distilling the leaves of the _Melissa officinalis_ with water; it comes +from the still tap with the condensed steam or water, from which it is +separated with the tap funnel. But it is very little used in perfumery, +if we except its combination in _Aqua di Argento_. + +BALSAM.--Under this title there are two or three substances +used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of +storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the +_Myroxylon peruiferum_; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is +also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter +is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like +benzoin. + +Balsam of Tolu flows from the _Toluifera balsammum_. It resembles common +resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like +brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being +soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this +respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of +an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very +useful, though not so much used as they might be. + + "ULEX has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently + adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he + pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when + the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving + sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid, + if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams, + blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is + adulterated with common resin."--_Archives der Pharmacie_. + +Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same +manner, and possessing similar properties, with a slight variation of +odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above. + +They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the +trees that produce them are indigenous. + +BAY, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of +laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation +from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much +used. + +BERGAMOT.--This most useful perfume is procured from the +_Citrus Bergamia_, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a +soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and +good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age, +especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy +from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air, +and acquires a turpentine smell. + +It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar, +and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly +deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all +perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled. + +When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to +their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no +other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented +soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four +ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of +bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though well +covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading +ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see BOUQUETS). + +[Illustration: Styrax Benzoin.] + +BENZOIN, also called Benjamin.--This is a very useful substance +to perfumers. It exudes from the _Styrax benzoin_ by wounding the tree, +and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from +Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter +place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being +interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds. +When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily +condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is +called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic +acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is +derived. + +The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good basis for a +bouquet.[B] Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a +perfume made with an essential oil in spirit. + +The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles +(see PASTILLES), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla +pomade (see POMATUMS). + +CARAWAY.--This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation +from the seeds of the _Carum carui_. It has a very pleasant smell, quite +familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap, +for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the +continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with +oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a +similar way to cloves (see CLOVES). If caraway seeds are +ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see +SACHETS). + +CASCARILLA.--The bark is used in the formation of pastilles, +and also enters into the composition known as _Eau à Bruler_, for +perfuming apartments, to which we refer. + +The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and +that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The _Cascarilla gratissimus_ +is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are +gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both +the _C. fragrans_ and _C. fragilis_ are odoriferous. It behooves +perfumers, therefore, who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain +these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation. + +Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but +it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity. + +CASSIA.--The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling +the outer bark of the _Cinnamomum cassia_. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather +more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color; +in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is +principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military +soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it +therefore finds no place for handkerchief use. + +CASSIE.-- + + "The short narcissus and fair daffodil, + Pansies to please the sight, and _cassie_ sweet to swell." + + DRYDEN'S _Virgil_. + +This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the +best handkerchief bouquets. + +[Illustration: Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.] + +When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather +sickly sweet. + +It is procured by maceration from the _Acacia farnesiana_. The purified +fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for +several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight +or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many +flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in +a liquid state. + +After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient +only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing +for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The +_Huile de Cassie_, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar +manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond +oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a +solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral +fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented +pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that +belongs to the same genus as the _A. farnesiana_, and which grows most +luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle +plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers, +&c. + +To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best +quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best +rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has +digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw +from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich +flowery smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this +process--_maceration_, or, as it may be called, cold _infusion_, give a +more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely +dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit; +moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute +quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c., +it is the only practical mode of proceeding. + +In this, and all other similar cases, the pomatum must be cut up into +very small pieces, after the domestic manner of "chopping suet," prior +to its being infused in the alcohol. The action of the mixture is simply +a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body +by the superior attraction, or affinity, as the chemists say, of the +spirits of wine, in which it freely dissolves. + +The major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off the pomatum +without trouble, but it still retains a portion in the interstices, +which requires time to drain away, and this must be assisted by placing +the pomatum in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to +collect the remainder. Finally, all the pomatum, which is now called +_washed pomatum_, is to be put into a tin, which tin must be set into +hot water, for the purpose of melting its contents; when the pomatum +thus becomes liquefied, any extract that is still in it rises to the +surface, and can be skimmed off, or when the pomatum becomes cold it can +be poured from it. + +The washed pomatum is preserved for use in the manufacture of dressing +for the hair, for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted, on +account of the purity of the grease from which it was originally +prepared, but more particularly on account of a certain portion of odor +which it still retains; and were it not used up in this way, it would be +advisable to put it for a second infusion in spirit, and thus a weaker +extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles. + +I cannot leave cassie without recommending it more especially to the +notice of perfumers and druggists, as an article well adapted for the +purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades +for the hair. When diluted with other odors, it imparts to the whole +such a true flowery fragrance, that it is the admiration of all who +smell it, and has not a little contributed to the great sale which +certain proprietary articles have attained. + +We caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with cassia, which +has a totally different odor. See ACACIA POMADE. + +CEDAR WOOD now and then finds a place in a perfumer's +warehouse; when ground, it does well to form a body for sachet powder. +Slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting lamps, because +while burning an agreeable odor is evolved; some people use it also, in +this condition, distributed among clothes in drawers to "prevent moth." +On distillation it yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant. + +Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use it extensively for scenting soap. + +LEBANON CEDAR WOOD. (_For the Handkerchief._) + +Otto of cedar, 1 oz. +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Esprit rose trip, 1/4 pint. + +The tincture smells agreeably of the wood, from which it can readily be +made. Its crimson color, however, prohibits it from being used for the +handkerchief. It forms an excellent tincture for the teeth, and is the +basis of the celebrated French dentifrice "eau Botot." + +CEDRAT.--This perfume is procured from the rind of the citron +fruit (_Citrus medica_), both by distillation and expression; it has a +very beautiful lemony odor, and is much admired. It is principally used +in the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief, being too expensive +for perfuming grease or soap. What is called extract of cedrat is made +by dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in one +pint of spirits, to which some perfumers add half an ounce of bergamot. + +CINNAMON.--Several species of the plant _Laurus cinnamomum_ +yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be +derived from _China Amomum_, the bark being one of the most valued +spices of the East. Perfumers use both the bark and the oil, which is +obtained by distillation from it. The ground bark enters into the +composition of some pastilles, tooth powders, and sachets. The essential +oil of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from Ceylon; it +is exceedingly powerful, and must be used sparingly. In such compounds +as cloves answer, so will cinnamon. + +CITRON.--On distilling the flowers of the _Citrus medica_, a +very fragrant oil is procured, which is a species of neroli, and is +principally consumed by the manufacturers of eau de Cologne. + +CITRONELLA.--Under this name there is an oil in the market, +chiefly derived from Ceylon and the East Indies; its true origin we are +unable to decide; in odor it somewhat resembles citron fruit, but is +very inferior. Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of the +_Andropogon_ genus. Being cheap, it is extensively used for perfuming +soap. What is now extensively sold as "honey" soap, is a fine yellow +soap slightly perfumed with this oil. Some few use it for scenting +grease, but it is not much admired in that way. + +CLOVES.--Every part of the clove plant (_Caryophyllus +aromaticus_) abounds with aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and +plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud, which are the cloves of +commerce. Cloves have been brought into the European market for more +than 2000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other islands +in the China seas. "The average annual crop of cloves," says Burnett, +"is, from each tree, 2 or 2-1/2 lbs., but a fine tree has been known to +yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a single season, and as 5000 cloves only +weigh one pound, there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this +single tree." + +[Illustration: Clove.] + +The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh +flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, +which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few +essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of +cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be +seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a +leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences, +Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least +expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the +proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit. + +DILL.--Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it +is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more +used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is +rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill +water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the +complexion." + +The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill +(_Anethum graveolens_) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the +surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in +the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit +for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small +proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap. + +EGLANTINE, or SWEET BRIAR, notwithstanding what the +poet Robert Noyes says-- + + "In fragrance yields, + Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields," + +does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name. +This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of +collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more +or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is +discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a +species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:-- + +IMITATION EGLANTINE, OR ESSENCE OF SWEET BRIAR. + +Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1 pint. + " " cassie, 1/4 " + " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " +Esprit de rose, 1/4 " +Oil of neroli, 1/2 drachm. +Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil), 1/2 " + +ELDER (_Sambucus nigra_).--The only preparation of this plant +for its odorous quality used by the perfumer, is elder-flower water. To +prepare it, take nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and +introduce it to the still with four gallons of water; the first three +gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use; one ounce +of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of "water" distilled, +and when bottled it is ready for sale. Other preparations of elder +flowers are made, such as milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which +will be found in their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new +materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter, which are +likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling +qualities of the ingredients; of these we would call attention more +particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers, and to elder oil for the +hair. + +The preparations of elder-flowers, if made according to the +Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the forms therein given show +an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed. + +FENNEL (_Foeniculum vulgare_).--Dried fennel herb, when +ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders. The oil of +fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils, may be used for +perfuming soap. It is procurable by distillation. + +FLAG (SWEET) (_Acorus calamus_).--The roots, or +rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling +oil; 1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil. It can be +used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, +soap, or for extracts, but requires other sweet oils with it to hide its +origin. + +GERANIUM (_Pelargonium odoratissimum_, rose-leaf +geranium).--The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very +agreeable rosy-smelling oil, so much resembling real otto of rose, that +it is used very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil, +and is grown very largely for that express purpose. It is principally +cultivated in the south of France, and in Turkey (by the rose-growers). +In the department of Seine-et-Oise, at Montfort-Lamaury, in France, +hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing. 1 cwt. of leaves will yield +about two ounces of essential oil. Used to adulterate otto of rose, it +is in its turn itself adulterated with ginger grass oil (_Andropogon_), +and thus formerly was very difficult to procure genuine; on account of +the increased cultivation of the plant, it is now, however, easily +procured pure. Some samples are greenish-colored, others nearly white, +but we prefer that of a brownish tint. + +When dissolved in rectified spirit, in the proportion of about six +ounces to the gallon, it forms the "extract of rose-leaf geranium" of +the shops. A word or two is necessary about the oil of geranium, as much +confusion is created respecting it, in consequence of there being an oil +under the name of geranium, but which in reality is derived from the +_Andropogon nardus_, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andropogon +(geranium!) oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium, and hence +we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf +geranium oil fetches about 6_s._ per ounce, while the andropogon oil is +not worth more than that sum per pound. And we may observe here, that +the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale +perfumers, as from the nature of their trade they have a better +knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker. +On account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium, +it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to +give the public great satisfaction. + +HELIOTROPE.--Either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified +fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the _Heliotrope +Peruvianum_ or _H. grandiflorum_. Exquisite as the odor of this plant +is, at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer. +This we think rather a singular fact, especially as the perfume is +powerful and the flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some +experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this +country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which +would most likely lead to successful results. For a small trial in the +first instance, which can be managed by any person having the run of a +garden, we will say, procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use, +which melts the material by the boiling of water; it is in fact a +water-bath, in chemical parlance--one capable of holding a pound or more +of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain half +a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it through a close +hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to drop +into cold spring water; this operation granulates and washes the blood +and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly inodorous +grease, the melting and granulation process may be repeated three or +four times; finally, remelt the fat and cast it into a pan to free it +from adhering water. + +Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in such +a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will keep +it warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you +can, and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time +strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this +operation for a week: we expect at the last straining the fat will have +become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed _Pomade +à la Heliotrope_. + +The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding, is now to be +put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered with spirits as highly +rectified as can be obtained, and left to digest for a week or more; the +spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed; in reality it will be +_extract of Heliotrope_, a delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The +rationale of the operation is simple enough: the fat body has a strong +affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of the +flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes itself +perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a much greater +attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the former, +therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter. The same +experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat. + +The experiment here hinted at, may be varied with any flowers that there +are to spare; indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was +mentioned above, an excellent _millefleur_ pomade and essence might be +produced from every conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive +another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of +form and color. + +We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments +of this nature will not be deterred by saying, "they are not worth the +trouble." It must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the +London perfumery warehouses 16_s._ per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine +_flowery-scented_ pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the +experiments are successful they should be published, as then we may hope +to establish a new and important manufacture in this country. But we are +digressing. + +The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla, and +is well imitated thus:-- + +EXTRACT OF HELIOTROPE. + +Spirituous extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + " " French rose pomatum, 1/4 " + " " orange-flower pomatum, 2 oz. + " " ambergris, 1 oz. +Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. + +A preparation made in this manner under the name of _Extract de +Heliotrope_ is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and +is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a +genuine extract of heliotrope. + +HONEYSUCKLE or WOODBINE:-- + + "Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan, + But well compensating her sickly looks + With never-cloying odors." + +What the poet Cowper here says is quite true; nevertheless, it is a +flower that is not used in practical perfumery, though there is no +reason for abandoning it. The experiments suggested for obtaining the +odor of Heliotrope and Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable +to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good IMITATION OF HONEYSUCKLE +is made thus:-- + +Spirituous extract of rose pomatum, 1 pint. + " " violet " 1 " + " " tubereuse " 1 " +Extract of vanilla, 1/4 " + " Tolu, 1/4 " +Otto neroli, 10 drops. + " almonds, 5 " + +The prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would probably be too +high to meet the demand of a retail druggist; in such cases it may be +diluted with rectified spirit to the extent "to make it pay," and will +yet be a nice perfume. The formula generally given herein for odors is +in anticipation that when bottled they will retail for at least +eighteen-pence the fluid ounce! which is the average price put on the +finest perfumery by the manufacturers of London and Paris. + +HOVENIA.--A perfume under this name is sold to a limited +extent, but if it did not smell better than the plant _Hovenia dulcis_ +or _H. inequalis_, a native of Japan, it would not sell at all. The +article in the market is made thus:-- + +Rectified spirit, 1 quart. +Rose-water, 1/2 pint. +Otto lemons, 1/2 oz. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1/2 " + " neroli, 10 drops. + +First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-water. After +filtration it is ready for sale. When compounds of this kind do not +become bright by passing through blotting-paper, the addition of a +little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them. +The water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article +produced may be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be +better without that "universal friend." + +JASMINE.-- + + "Luxuriant above all, + The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets." + +This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer. Its odor is +delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without comparison, and +as such cannot be imitated. When the flowers of the _Jasminum +odoratissimum_ are distilled, repeatedly using the water of +distillation over fresh flowers, the essential oil of jasmine may be +procured. It is, however, exceedingly rare, on account of the enormous +cost of production. There was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in +the Tunisian department of the Crystal Palace, the price of which was +9_l._ the fluid ounce! The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which +our name is derived. + +In the perfumer's laboratory, the method of obtaining the odor is by +absorption, or, as the French term it, _enfleurage_; that is, by +spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking +the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or +so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers--the grease absorbs +the odor. Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted +at as low a temperature as possible, and strained. + +Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in +the same way. Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben +(obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the _Moringa oleifera_) +are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times; +finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are +squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus produced is the _Huile +antique au jasmin_ of the French houses. + +The "extract of jasmine" is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the +jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to remain together for a +fortnight at a summer heat. The best quality extract requires two +pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit. The same can be done with +the oil of jasmine. If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine +previously to being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be +shaken well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account of +its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface is +exposed to the spirit. After the extract is strained off, the "washed" +pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the composition of +pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any +of the "creams and balms," &c. &c., made up and scented with essential +oils; the one smells of the flower, the other "a nondescript." + +[Illustration: Jasmine.] + +The extract of jasmine enters into the composition of a great many of +the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold by the English and French +perfumers. Extract of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure, +but is one of those scents which, though very gratifying at first, +becomes what people call "sickly" after exposure to the oxidizing +influence of the air, but if judiciously mixed with other perfumes of an +opposite character is sure to please the most fastidious customer. + +JONQUIL.--The scent of the jonquil is very beautiful; for +perfumery purposes it is however but little cultivated in comparison +with jasmine and tubereuse. It is prepared exactly as jasmine. The +Parisian perfumers sell a mixture which they call "extract of jonquil." +The plant, however, only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring, +giving it its name. The so-called jonquil is made thus:-- + +Spirituous extract of jasmine pomade, 1 pint. +" " tubereuse " 1 " +" " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " +Extract of vanilla, 2 fluid ounces. + +LAUREL.--By distillation from the berries of the _Laurus +nobilis_, and from the leaves of the _Laurus cerasus_, an oil and +perfumed water are procurable of a very beautiful and fragrant +character. Commercially, however, it is disregarded, as from the +similarity of odor to the oil distilled from the bitter almond, it is +rarely, if ever, used by the perfumer, the latter being more economical. + +LAVENDER.--The climate of England appears to be better adapted +for the perfect development of this fine old favorite perfume than any +other on the globe. "The ancients," says Burnett, "employed the flowers +and the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a sweet scent to +water in which they washed; hence the generic name of the plant, +_Lavandula_." + +Lavender is grown to an enormous extent at Mitcham, in Surrey, which is +the seat of its production, in a commercial point of view. Very large +quantities are also grown in France, but the fine odor of the British +produce realizes in the market four times the price of that of +Continental growth. Burnett says that the oil of _Lavandula spica_ is +more pleasant than that derived from the other species, but this +statement must not mislead the purchaser to buy the French spike +lavender, as it is not worth a tenth of that derived from the _Lavandulæ +veræ_. Half-a-hundred weight of good lavender flowers yield, by +distillation, from 14 to 16 oz. of essential oil. + +All the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for perfuming +soaps and greases; but the best, that obtained from the Mitcham +lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender +water, but which, more properly, should be called essence or extract of +lavender, to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences +prepared with spirit. + +The number of formulæ published for making a liquid perfume of lavender +is almost endless, but the whole of them may be resolved into essence of +lavender, simple; essence of lavender, compound; and lavender water. + +There are two methods of making essence of lavender:--1. By distilling +a mixture of essential oil of lavender and rectified spirit; and the +other--2. By merely mixing the oil and the spirit together. + +The first process yields the finest quality: it is that which is adopted +by the firm of Smyth and Nephew, whose reputation for this article is +such that it gives a good character in foreign markets, especially +India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture. Lavender +essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by +mixture only always has a yellowish tint, which by age becomes darker +and resinous. + +SMYTH'S LAVENDER. + +To produce a very fine distillate, take-- + +Otto of English Lavender, 4 oz. +Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 5 pints. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Mix and distil five pints for sale. Such essence of lavender is +expensive, but at 10_s._ a pint of 14 oz! there _is_ a margin for +profit. It not being convenient to the general dealer to sell distilled +lavender essence, the following form, by mixture, will produce a +first-rate article, and nearly as white as the above. + +ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. + +Otto of lavender, 3-1/2 oz. +Rectified spirit, 2 quarts. + +The perfumer's retail price for such quality is 8_s._ per pint of 14 oz. + +Many perfumers and druggists in making lavender water or essence, use a +small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving its quality--a very +erroneous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly discolors. + +LAVENDER WATER.--Take: + +English oil of lavender, 4 oz. +Spirit, 3 quarts. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Filter as above, and it is ready for sale. + +COMMON LAVENDER WATER.--Same form as the above, substituting +French lavender for the British. + +Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, +will be given when we come to speak of compound perfumes, which will be +reserved until we have finished explaining the method of making the +simple essences. + +LEMON.--This fine perfume is abstracted from the _Citrus +limonum_, by expression, from the rind of the fruit. The otto of lemons +in the market is principally from Messina, where there are hundreds of +acres of "lemon groves." Otto of lemons, like all the ottos of the +Citrus family, is rapidly prone to oxidation when in contact with air +and exposure to light; a high temperature is also detrimental, and as +such is the case it should be preserved in a cool cellar. Most of the +samples from the gas-heated shelves of the druggists' shops, are as much +like essence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons; rancid oil +of lemons may, in a great measure, be purified by agitation with warm +water and final decantation. When new and good, lemon otto may be freely +used in combination with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming +powders for the nursery. From its rapid oxidation, it should not be used +for perfuming grease, as it assists rather than otherwise all fats to +turn rancid; hence pomatums so perfumed will not keep well. In the +manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved in +spirit, in the proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of +spirit. There is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the +manufacture of Eau de Cologne; that Farina uses it is easily discovered +by adding a few drops of Liq. Ammoniæ fort. to half an ounce of his Eau +de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is thereby brought out in a +remarkable manner. + +Perhaps it is not out of place here to remark, that in attempts to +discover the composition of certain perfumes, we are greatly assisted by +the use of strong Liq. Ammoniæ. Certain of the essential oils combining +with the Ammonia, allow those which do not do so, if present in the +compound, to be smelt. + +LEMON GRASS.--According to Pereira, the otto in the market +under this name is derived from the _Andropogon schoenanthus_ a +species of grass which grows abundantly in India. It is cultivated to a +large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which +from the plant is easily procured by distillation. Lemon grass otto, or, +as it is sometimes called, oil of verbena, on account of its similarity +of odor to that favorite plant, is imported into this country in old +English porter and stout bottles. It is very powerful, well adapted for +perfuming soaps and greases, but its principal consumption is in the +manufacture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively low +price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the lemon grass +otto may be much more used than at present, with considerable advantage +to the retail shopkeeper. + +LILAC.--The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub +is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of +maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the +pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as +previously described for cassie; the odor so much resembles tubereuse, +as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter, the demand for +tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply. A beautiful +IMITATION OF ESSENCE OF WHITE LILAC may be compounded thus:-- + +Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, 1 pint. + " of orange-flower pomade, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. +Extract of civet, 1/2 oz. + +The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the +handkerchief. + +LILY.--The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the +inspired writer, to "consider the lilies of the field." Rich as they are +in odor, they are not cultivated for their perfume. If lilies are thrown +into oil of sweet almonds, or ben oil, they impart to it their sweet +smell; but to obtain anything like fragrance, the infusion must be +repeated a dozen times with the same oil, using fresh flowers for each +infusion, after standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal +quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odor to the alcohol, and +thus extract of lilies _may_ be made. But how it _is_ made is thus:-- + +IMITATION "LILY OF THE VALLEY." + +Extract of tubereuse, 1/2 pint. + " jasmine, 1 oz. + " fleur d'orange, 2 oz. + " vanilla, 3 oz. + " cassie, 1/4 pint. + " rose, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It +is a perfume that is very much admired. + +MACE.--Ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those +scented powders called Sachets. A strong-smelling essential oil may be +procured from it by distillation, but it is rarely used. + +MAGNOLIA.--The perfume of this flower is superb; practically, +however, it is of little use to the manufacturer, the large size of the +blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used, but a +very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under, and is that which +is found in the perfumers' shops of London and Paris. + +IMITATION "ESSENCE OF MAGNOLIA." + +Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum, 1 pint. + " " rose pomatum, 2 pints. + " " tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 pint. + " " violet pomatum, 1/2 " +Essential oil of citron, 3 drs. + " " almonds, 10 drops. + +MARJORAM.--The otto procured by distilling _Origanum majorana_, +commonly called oil of oringeat by the French, is exceedingly powerful, +and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species +of thyme, of which the marjoram is one. One hundred weight of the dry +herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. Oringeat oil is extensively +used for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It is the +chief ingredient used by Gelle Frères, of Paris, for scenting their +"Tablet Monstre Soap," so common in the London shops. + +MEADOW SWEET.--A sweet-smelling otto can be produced by +distilling the _Spiræa ulmaria_, but it is not used by perfumers. + +MELISSA. See BALM. + +MIGNONETTE.--But for the exquisite odor of this little flower, +it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed. Sweet as it is in +its natural state, and prolific in odor, we are not able to maintain its +characteristic smell as an essence. Like many others, during separation +from the plant, the fragrance is more or less modified; though not +perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers. To give +it that sweetness which it appears to want, a certain quantity of +violet is added to bring it up to the market odor. + +As this plant is so very prolific in odor, we think something might be +done with it in England, especially as it flourishes as well in this +country as in France; and we desire to see Flower Farms and organized +Perfumatories established in the British Isles, for the extraction of +essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are +indigenous, or that thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides +opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it +would give healthy employment to many women and children. Open air +employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the +stamina of the future generation; for it cannot be denied that our +factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical +condition of the human family. + +To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette, or, as it is +more often sold under the name of Extrait de Rézéda, is prepared by +infusing the rézéda pomade in rectified spirit, in the proportion of one +pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together +for a fortnight, when the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce +of extrait d'ambré is added to every pint. This is done to give +permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, and does not in any way +alter its odor. + +MIRIBANE.--The French name for artificial essence of almond +(see ALMOND). + +MINT.--All the _Menthidæ_ yield fragrant ottos by +distillation. The otto of the spear-mint (_M. viridis_) is exceedingly +powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in conjunction with +other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture +of mouth-washes and dental liquids. The leading ingredient in the +celebrated "eau Botot" is oil of peppermint in alcohol. A good imitation +may be made thus:-- + +EAU DE BOTOT. + +Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. + " myrrh, 1 oz. +Oil of peppermint, 1/2 dr. + " spear mint, 1/4 dr. + " cloves, 10 drops. + " roses, 10 " + +Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main +object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any +other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must +be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as +for a dentifrice. + +MYRTLE.--A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling +both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will +yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of +myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is +very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:-- + +IMITATION ESSENCE OF MYRTLE. + +Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + " roses 1 " +Extract of fleur d'orange, 1/2 pint. + " tubereuse, 1/2 " + " jasmine, 2 oz. + +Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and +is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction. + +Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and +may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters. + +NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.--Two distinct odors are procurable +from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for +procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a +great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of +inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the +orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose--probably to +all flowers. + +When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by +infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength +and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower +made in the same grease. + +By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the +proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of +spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de +fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume +surpassed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so +much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the +scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar flowery odor +of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a +pure state, but slightly modified with other _extraits_ passes for +"sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance. + +[Illustration: Orange.] + +Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto +of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli +procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be +the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality, +"neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the _Citrus +bigaradia_, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered +inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, obtained by +distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different +species of the citrus. + +The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the +manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit +grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de +neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified +spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the +manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the +extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by +maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from +another plant, yet in theory both these _extraits_ are but alcoholic +solutions of the otto of the flower. + +The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed +from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de +fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for +the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, +and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price. +(See _Syringa_.) + +NUTMEG.--The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. +Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it +is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used +advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent +bags.--See "Sachet's Powders." + +OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this +country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly +interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent +mention is made in the Holy volume.[C] + +"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in +the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the +Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the +altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service." + +Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, +probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated +with the benzoic acid it contains. + +For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum +to 1 gallon of the spirit. + +ORANGE.--Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the +odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of +what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more +frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we +cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants." + +The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, +is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in +order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto. + +Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of +a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant +illumination. + +It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds +many admirers. + +It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau +de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing + +LISBON WATER. + +Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon. +Otto of orange peel, 3 oz. + " lemon peel, 3 oz. + " rose 1/4 oz. + +This is a form for + +EAU DE PORTUGAL. + +Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon. +Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz. + " lemon peel, 1 oz. + " lemon grass, 1/4 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + " otto of rose, 1/4 oz. + +It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet +bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the +ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the +mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be _spirit rinsed_ prior to being +filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences +of orange or lemon peel. + +ORRIS, properly IRIS.--The dried rhizome of _Iris +florentina_ has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better +comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, +exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when +such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless the perfume of iris +root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a +perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used +in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that +celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or, +as the perfumers call it, + +EXTRACT OF ORRIS, + +Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs. +Rectified spirits, 1 gallon. + +After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to +take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent +loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press. +This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated +bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone, +because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand +public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very +great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of +strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and +steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire +inflammable bodies. + +PALM.--The odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to +a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the +odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the +tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and +is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been +made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have +failed from bad seasons. + +PATCHOULY.--_Pogostemon patchouly_ (LINDLEY), +_Plectranthus crassifolius_ (BURNETT), is an herb that grows +extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in +its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy. + +[Illustration: Patchouly.] + +The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and +stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will +yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, +and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it +resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of +any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion +of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other +bodies. + +EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY. + +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. +Otto of patchouly, 1-1/4 oz. + " rose, 1/4 oz. + +The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the +perfumers' shops of Paris and London. Although few perfumes have had +such a fashionable run, yet when smelled at in its pure state, it is far +from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to +Lycopodium, or, as some say, it smells of "old coats." + +The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due to some +admixture of this herb. + +The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in Europe is curious. A +few years ago real Indian shawls bore an extravagant price, and +purchasers could always distinguish them by their odor; in fact, they +were perfumed with patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time +successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor. + +At length they discovered the secret, and began to import the plant to +perfume articles of their make, and thus palm off homespun shawls as +real Indian! From this origin the perfumers have brought it into use. +Patchouly herb is extensively used for scenting drawers in which linen +is kept; for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put them +into muslin sacks, covered with silk, after the manner of the +old-fashioned lavender-bag. In this state it is very efficacious in +preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths. Several +combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes for "bouquets and +nosegays." + +PEA (SWEET).--A very fine odor may be abstracted from +the flowers of the chick-vetch by maceration in any fatty body, and then +digesting the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however, rarely +manufactured, because a very close + +IMITATION OF THE ESSENCE OF SWEET PEA. + +can be prepared thus:-- + +Extract of tuberose, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " + " rose from pomatum, 1/2 " + " vanilla, 1 oz. + +Scents, like sounds, appear to influence the olfactory nerve in certain +definite degrees. There is, as it were, an octave of odors like an +octave in music; certain odors coincide, like the keys of an instrument. +Such as almond, heliotrope, vanilla, and orange-blossoms blend together, +each producing different degrees of a nearly similar impression. Again, +we have citron, lemon, orange-peel, and verbena, forming a higher octave +of smells, which blend in a similar manner. The metaphor is completed by +what we are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and rose geranium +for the half note; petty grain, neroli, a black key, followed by fleur +d'orange. Then we have patchouli, sandal-wood, and vitivert, and many +others running into each other. + +From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper +proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine. + +The odor of some flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost +induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not +evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the +air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in +composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as +camphor, turpentine, rosemary. Hence we may presume that chemistry will +sooner or later produce one from the other, for with many it is merely +an atom of water or an atom of oxygen that causes the difference. It +would be a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rosemary, or +from the rose geranium oil, and theory indicates its possibility. + +The essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains a good deal of +air-oxygen, and but a very little of the oil, spontaneously passes into +another odoriferous body, benzoic acid; which is seen in crystals to +form over the dry parts of the flask. This is a natural illustration of +this idea. In giving the recipe for "sweet pea" as above, we form it +with the impression that its odor resembles the orange-blossom, which +similarity is approached nearer by the addition of the rose and +tuberose. + +The vanilla is used merely to give permanence to the scent on the +handkerchief, and this latter body is chosen in preference to extract of +musk or ambergris, which would answer the same purpose of giving +permanence to the more volatile ingredients; because the vanilla +strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom, and +thus no new idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume +dies off from the handkerchief. When perfumes are not mixed upon this +principle, then we hear that such and such a perfume becomes "sickly" or +"faint" after they have been on the handkerchief a short time. + +PINE-APPLE.--Both Dr. Hoffman and Dr. Lyon Playfair have fallen +into some error in their inferences with regard to the application of +this odor in perfumery. After various practical experiments conducted in +a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so +applied, simply because when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at, +the vapor produces an involuntary action of the larynx, producing cough, +when exceedingly dilute. Even in the infinitesimal portions it still +produces disagreeable irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged, +such as is expected if used upon a handkerchief, is followed by intense +headache. It is obvious, therefore, that the legitimate use of the +essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with benefit to +the manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the confectioner as a +flavoring material. What we have here said refers to the artificial +essence of pine-apple, or butyrate of ethyloxide, which, if very much +diluted with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and hence its +name; but how far the same observations are applicable to the true +essential oil from the fruit or epidermis of the pine-apple, remains to +be seen _when_ we procure it. As the West Indian pine-apples are now +coming freely into the market, the day is probably not distant when +demonstrative experiments can be tried; but hitherto it must be +remembered our experiments have only been performed with a body +_resembling in smell_ the true essential oil of the fruit. The physical +action of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to prevent +their application in perfumery, however useful in confectionary, which +it is understood has to deal with another of the senses,--not of smell, +but of taste. The commercial "essence of pine-apple," or "pine-apple +oil," and "jargonelle pear-oil," are admitted only to be _labelled_ +such, but really are certain organic acid ethers. For the present, then, +perfumers must only look on these bodies as so many lines in the "Poetry +of Science," which, for the present, are without practical application +in his art. + +PINK.--_Dianthus Caryophyllus._--The clove pink emits a most +fragrant odor, "especially at night," says Darwin. + + "The lavish pink that scents the garden round," + +is not, however, at present applied in perfumery, except in name. + +IMITATION ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK. + +Esprit rose, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " + " " de cassie, 1/4 " + " vanilla, 2 oz. +Oil of cloves, 10 drops. + +It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the +flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing." + +RHODIUM.--When rose-wood, the lignum of the _Convolvulus +scoparius_, is distilled, a sweet-smelling oil is procured, resembling +in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose, and hence its name. At +one time, that is, prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf geranium, +the distillates from rose-wood and from the root of the _Genista +canariensis_ (Canary-rose-wood), were principally drawn for the +adulteration of real otto of roses, but as the geranium oil answers so +much better, the oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse, hence its +comparative scarcity in the market at the present day, though our +grandfathers knew it well. One cwt. of wood yields about three ounces of +oil. + +Ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manufacture of sachet +powders for perfuming the wardrobe. + +The French have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood, under the idea +that the plant called jacaranda by the Brazilians yields it, which is +not the case; "the same word has perhaps been the origin of +palisander--palixander, badly written."--_Burnett_. + +ROSE.-- + + "Go, crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom, + And waft its spoils, a sweet perfume, + In incense to the skies." + + OGILVIE. + +This queen of the garden loses not its diadem in the perfuming world. +The oil of roses, or, as it is commonly called, the otto, or attar, of +roses, is procured (contrary to so many opposite statements) simply by +distilling the roses with water. + +The otto, or attar, of rose of commerce is derived from the _Rosa +centifolia provincialis_. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople +(Turkey in Europe); at Broussa, now famous as the residence of +Abd-el-Kader; and at Uslak (Turkey in Asia); also at Ghazepore, in +India. + +The cultivators in Turkey are principally the Christian inhabitants of +the low countries of the Balkan, between Selimno, and Carloya, as far as +Philippopolis, in Bulgaria, about 200 miles from Constantinople. In good +seasons, this district yields 75,000 ounces; but in bad seasons only +20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar are obtained. It is estimated that it +requires at least 2000 rose blooms to yield one drachm of otto. + +The otto slightly varies in odor from different districts; many places +furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than others, and, +therefore, this is not a sure guide of purity, though many consider it +such. That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1851, as "from +Ghazepore," in India, obtained the prize. + + "Attar of roses, made in Cashmere, is considered superior to any + other; a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the + flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty. + A large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run + off into an open vessel, placed over night in a cool running + stream, and in the morning the oil is found floating on the + surface in minute specks, which are taken off very carefully by + means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green + color, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature + about that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of + leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar."--_Indian + Encyclopædia._ + +Pure otto of roses, from its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers; +when diluted, however, there is nothing to equal it in odor, especially +if mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the +esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very +fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto. + +The finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at Grasse, in France. +Here the flowers are not treated for the otto, but are subjected to the +process of maceration in fat, or in oil, as described under jasmine, +heliotrope, &c. + +The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say 8 lbs. of No. 24 +Pomade to one gallon of spirit, yields an esprit de rose of the first +order, very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to +spirit. It is difficult to account for this difference, but it is +sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor. See the article on +fleur d'orange and neroli (pp. 77, 78), which have similar qualities, +previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French rose +pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer; he reserves this to form +part of his _recherche_ bouquets. + +Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it now for some +time to country practitioners, for them to form extemporaneous +rose-water, which it does to great perfection. Roses are cultivated to +a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use, +to make rose-water. In the season when successive crops can be got, +which is about the end of June, or the early part of July, they are +gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to town in sacks. When they +arrive, they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor: otherwise, if +left in a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as +to be quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs +oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered +roses. + +To preserve these roses, the London perfumers immediately pickle them; +for this purpose, the leaves are separated from the stalks, and to every +bushel of flowers, equal to about six pounds' weight, one pound of +common salt is thoroughly rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water existing +in the petals, and rapidly becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty +mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way they will keep +almost any length of time, without the fragrance being seriously +injured. A good rose-water can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of +pickled roses, and 2-1/2 gallons of water. "Draw" off two gallons; the +product will be the double-distilled rose-water of the shops. The +rose-water that is imported from the South of France is, however, very +superior in odor to any that can be produced here. As it is a residuary +product of the distillation of roses for procuring the attar, it has a +richness of aroma which appears to be inimitable with English-grown +roses. There are four modifications of essence of rose for the +handkerchief, which are the _ne plus ultra_ of the perfumer's art. They +are,--esprit de rose triple, essence of white of roses, essence of tea +rose, and essence of moss rose. The following are the recipes for their +formation:-- + +ESPRIT DE ROSE TRIPLE. + +Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. +Otto of rose, 3 oz. + +Mix at a summer heat; in the course of a quarter of an hour the whole of +the otto is dissolved, and is then ready for bottling and sale. In the +winter season beautiful crystals of the otto--if it is good--appear +disseminated through the esprit. + +ESSENCE OF MOSS ROSE. + +Spirituous extract from French Rose pomatum, 1 quart. +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +Extracts fleur d'orange pomatum, 1 " + " of ambergris, 1/2 " + " musk, 4 oz. + +Allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight; then filter, +if requisite, and it is ready for sale. + +ESSENCE OF WHITE ROSE. + +Esprit de rose from pomatum, 1 quart. + " " triple, 1 " + " violette, 1 " +Extracts of jasmine 1 pint. + " patchouly, 1/2 " + +ESSENCE OF TEA ROSE. + +Esprit de rose pomade, 1 pint. +" " triple, 1 " +Extract of rose-leaf geranium, 1 " + " sandal-wood, 1/2 " + " neroli, 1/4 " + " orris, 1/4 " + +ROSEMARY.-- + + "There's rosemary, that's for remembrance." + + SHAKSPEARE. + +By distilling the _Rosmarinus officinalis_ a thin limpid otto is +procured, having the characteristic odor of the plant, which is more +aromatic than sweet. One cwt. of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four +ounces of oil. Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery, +especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap. Eau de +Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary +water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the composition of + +HUNGARY WATER. + +Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. +Otto of English rosemary, 2 oz. +" lemon-peel, 1 oz. +" balm (_Melissa_), 1 oz. +" mint, 1/2 drachm. +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Extract of fleur d'orange, 1 " + +It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to +take its name from one of the queens of Hungary, who is reported to +have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of +seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while +speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their +handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they +contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant +being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief +wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can +understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are +universally said to be "so refreshing!" + +SAGE.--A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation +from any of the _Salvieæ_. It is rarely used, but is nevertheless very +valuable in combination for scenting soap. + +Dried sage-leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets. + +SANTAL.--_Santalum album_. + + "The santal tree perfumes, when riven, + The axe that laid it low." CAMERON. + +This is an old favorite with the lovers of scent; it is the wood that +possesses the odor. The finest santal-wood grows in the island of Timor, +and the Santal-wood Islands, where it is extensively cultivated for the +Chinese market. In the religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos, +and Chinese, santal-wood is burned, by way of incense, to an extent +almost beyond belief. The _Santala_ grew plentifully in China, but the +continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost exterminated the plant +from the Celestial Empire; and such is the demand, that it is about to +be cultivated in Western Australia, in the expectation of a profitable +return, which we doubt not will be realized; England alone would consume +tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other +perfuming substances. The otto which exists in the santal-wood is +readily procured by distillation; 1 cwt. of good wood will yield about +30 ounces of otto. + +[Illustration: Santal-wood.] + +The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every +organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for +santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes, +deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a +valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East. + +The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others +oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color. +When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many +of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the +formulæ of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is +called + +EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE SANTAL. + +Rectified spirits, 7 pints. +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz. + +All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are +nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil +used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's +_mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an +object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to +sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a +perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures +are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides +the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter, +which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously +staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this +reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon +silk handkerchiefs. + +The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the +cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of +roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose. + +By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel." + +SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of +the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and +other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell +than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau +Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but +is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras. + +SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the +_Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.) + +STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way +as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of +tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very +volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last +longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any +perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add +to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as +extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris, +vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion +as to which of these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course, +those which are most compatible with the odor he is making. + +The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance, +renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which +is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential +oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, +together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a +handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the +alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it +contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were, +by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be +made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume +"dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its +composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having +the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and +patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly, +the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have +disappeared. + +SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or +common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the +orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed +"mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, à la +fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than +fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process. +Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of +what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum. + +THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more +particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the +marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are +extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though +well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other +combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an +herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a +consequence, they are not considered _recherché_. + +When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into +the composition of sachet powders. + +TONQUIN, or TONKA.--The seeds of the _Dipterix +odorata_ are the tonquin or _coumarouma_ beans of commerce. When fresh +they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay. +The _Anthoxanthum odoratum_, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which +new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant +principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal +grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly +aromatic when severed from the parent stock. + +Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing, +when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which their odor is +principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral +principal--_Coumarin_. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground, +they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by +infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a +thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength +it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is +"snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use +in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust. + +[Illustration: Tonquin.] + +EXTRACT OF TONQUIN. + +Tonquin beans, 1 lb. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this maceration they are +still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as POT +POURRI, OLLA PODRIA, &c. The extract of tonquin, like +extract of orris and extract of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only +used in the manufacture of compound perfumes. It is the leading +ingredient in _Bouquet du Champ_--The field Bouquet--the great +resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders it a favorite +to the lovers of the pastoral. + +TUBEROSE.--One of the most exquisite odors with which we are +acquainted is obtained by _enfleurage_ from the tuberose flower. It is, +as it were, a nosegay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful +perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close; +consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet +essences. + +EXTRACT OF TUBEROSE. + +Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be +placed into 1 gallon of the best rectified spirit. After standing for +three weeks or a month at summer heat, and with frequent agitation, it +is fit to draw off, and being strained through cotton wool, is ready +either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets. + +This essence of tuberose, like that of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile, +and if sold in its pure state quickly "flies off" the handkerchief; it +is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this +purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris, or half an +ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint of tuberose. + +VANILLA.--The pod or bean of the _Vanilla planifolia_ yields a +perfume of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it +becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing +properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it in +composition. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this, when +viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light. + +[Illustration: Vanilla.] + +EXTRACT OF VANILLA. + +Vanilla pods, 1/2 lb. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut +them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with +occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will +only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is +required. In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed +in the manufacture of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they +are called. + +Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of +hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla +with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards +filtering. + +We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and +confectioners for flavoring. + +VERBENA, or VERVAINE.--The scented species of this +plant, the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora_ (Hooker), gives one of +the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as +yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the +plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be +crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at +the plant. + +The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with +water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the +manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing +the otto of lemon grass, _Andropogon schoenanthus_, with rectified +spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The +following is a good form for making the + +EXTRACT OF VERBENA. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Otto of lemon grass, 3 drachms. + " lemon peel, 2 oz. + " orange peel, 1/2 oz. + +After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit +for sale. + +Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the +same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus--it is sold under +the title + +EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Otto of orange peel, 1 oz. + " lemon peel, 2 oz. + " citron, 1 drachm. + " lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz. + " " tubereuse, 7 oz. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. + +This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant +perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief. +It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and +the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is +sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great +many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court +Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, +with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these +preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the +citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape +spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent +for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in +English. Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or +not we cannot say, but think it is so. + +VIOLET.-- + + "The forward violet thus did I chide: + Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells, + If not from my love's breath?" + +The perfume exhaled by the _Viola odorata_ is so universally admired, +that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand +for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing +perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is +difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of +trade. + +Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the +West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the +affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from +whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive +at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true +smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a +very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with +the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true +impression. Burnett says that the plant _Viola tricolor_ (heart's ease), +when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore, +contains prussic acid. + +The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently +contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated +as the "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare. + +For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in +combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the +methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other +flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, +orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by _enfleurage_, the former +method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is +required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol. + +Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and, +though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and +its odor is perfectly natural. + +The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, +according to the quality and strength of the pomade:--Take from six to +eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into +one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit, +allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the +essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris +root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale. + +We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture +of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels upon them inferring +the contents to be "Extract of Violet;" customers thus once "taken in" +are not likely to be so a second time. + +A good IMITATION ESSENCE OF VIOLETS is best prepared thus-- + +Spirituous extract of cassie pomade, 1 pint. +Esprit de rose, from pomade, 1/2 " +Tincture of orris, 1/2 " +Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, 1/2 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture, it is the +extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose +and tuberose becomes very much like the violet. Moreover, it has a green +color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the +judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell. +Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the +most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many +others. + +VITIVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass. In the +neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an +extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and +sun-shades, called Tatty. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles +water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation +of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very +agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert. It has +a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers--if such +a distinction can be admitted. We classify it with orris root, not that +it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use +in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its +odor. + +About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported, being cut +small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, +produces the + +ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops. In this state it is rarely +used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, +perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in +"the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, +enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old +bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as +"_Mousselaine des Indies_," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the +zenith of his fame, created quite a _furor_ in the fashionable world. + +[Illustration: Vitivert.] + +Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert +in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, +as above. + +MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also +"had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained +in them. + +Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, +and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders. + +Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of +vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much +resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at +Kew. + +VOLKAMERIA.--An exquisite perfume is sold under this name, +presumed, of course, to be derived from the _Volkameria inermis_ +(LINDLEY). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that +plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a +native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic +gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's +enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes +"takes" with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a +fine perfume for a certainty! + +ESSENCE OF VOLKAMERIA. + +Esprit de violette, 1 pint. + " tubereuse, 1 " + " jasmine, 1/4 " + " rose, 1/2 " +Essence de muse, 2 oz. + +WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this +flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and +very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To +this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted +for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our +climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor +has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it +answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the +large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English +wallflower will meet with a demand. + +An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:-- + +Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint. + " vanilla, 1/2 " +Esprit de rose, 1 " +Extract of orris, 1/2 " + " cassie, 1/2 " +Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. + +Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting +it up for sale. + +WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can +be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally +consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of +this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made. + +ICELAND WINTER GREEN. + +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Essence of lavender, 1/4 " +Extract of neroli, 1/2 " + " vanilla, 1/4 " + " vitivert, 1/4 " + " cassie, 1/2 " + " ambergris, 1/4 " + +We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are +used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; +it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, +it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the +methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are +analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the +processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by +_tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified +under certain circumstances. + +There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris, +civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated +separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the +whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. +Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we +have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being +considered as primitive odors. + +On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the +odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or +of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may +probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the +consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named. + +QUANTITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY, +ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852. + + lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 28,574 + " caraway, 3,602 + " cassia, 6,163 + " cloves, 595 +Otto of lavender, 12,776 + " lemon, 67,348 + " peppermint, 16,059 + " roses, 1,268 + " spearmint, 163 + " thyme, 11,418 + " lemon grass, } + " citronella, } 47,380 +And other ottos not otherwise described, } + ------- +Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346 + +at the duty of 1_s._ per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766_l._ +16_s._ + +It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of +cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that +amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very +large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale +and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of +caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the +foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably +to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually. + +There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in +1852-- + +Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, + &c., commonly called "French Pomatums," + average value of 6_s._ per pound, and paying + a duty of 1_s._ per pound, valued by the importers + at £1,306 +Perfumery not otherwise described; value £1,920 + +Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying +a duty of 1_s._ each,[D] 19,777 + +Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 +flacons at 8_d._ = 8,000_l._ annually. + +The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale +of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket +handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000_l._ per annum. +This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home +manufacture of perfumery. + + + + +SECTION IV. + +PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN. + + +In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we +now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin. +The first under our notice is-- + +AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near +the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of +America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of +Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The +shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, +are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical +Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the +first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was +bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London +for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite +within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of +ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at +issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these +animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet +with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti +whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the +cause or effect of the disease. + +Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of +vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name +amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province +of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, +which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern +appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to +any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely +quoting the facts known more than a century ago. + +A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried +cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say +whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its +perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that +HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long +digestion of the human fæces had acquired a very strong and perfect +smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a +great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume +(_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of +the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.) + +Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in +deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many +an agreeable smell. + +Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing +little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives +permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the +perfumer esteems it much. + +ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS + +Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the +public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name + +EXTRAIT D'AMBRE. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. +Extract of ambergris, 1 " +Essence of musk, 1/4 " +Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces. + +This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well +perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been +washed. + +The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which +clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak +alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through +the lavatory ordeal. + +Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little +ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of +strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in +the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming +writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter. + +[Illustration: Civet Cat.] + +CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or +civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between +the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of +Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch. + +When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one +time was common in Amsterdam, they are placed in strong cages, so +constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the +person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is +said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet +with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good +deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut, +capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates. + +In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting +odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is +agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same +substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the +nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such +is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos, +which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively +nasty--such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if +diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their +fragrance is delightful. + +Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the +homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it +that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best +imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood +of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being +covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and +envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after +passing through the post. + +EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce +of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar +material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then +placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating +for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a +"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French +perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who +seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint +is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume. + +CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very +similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in +perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case. + +MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal +secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the +male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods," +and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from +the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain +musk." + +The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great +mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into +Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range, +near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the +borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only +that the musk is produced. + +[Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.] + +It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among +Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most +esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still +lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal +varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single +musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk +is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces +each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case, +it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark, +friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered, +as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we +presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is +remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything +in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor, +although not in actual contact with it. + +It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not +like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the +largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that +the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those +substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so +long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no +musk in it." + +[Illustration: The Musk Deer.] + +The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet +powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of +Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful +odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume +stamps it among the _élite_--its fragrance it owes to musk. + +The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the +odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass +be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true +musk smell. + +EXTRACT OF MUSK. + +Grain musk, 2 oz. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw +off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes. +That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared +thus:-- + +EXTRAIT DE MUSC. + +Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint. + " ambergris, 1/2 " + " rose triple, 1/4 " + +Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling. + +This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to +our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be +seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for +a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile +odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible, +namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, _i.e._ very volatile, +and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period, +_ergo_, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with +esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain +this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the +handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the +original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the +nasal organ. + + + + +SECTION V. + + +AMMONIA.--Under the various titles of "Smelling Salts," +"Preston Salts," "Inexhaustible Salts," "Eau de Luce," "Sal Volatile," +ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively +consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve. + +The perfumer uses liq. amm. fortis, that is, strong liquid ammonia, and +the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing the various "salts" that +he sells. These materials he does not attempt to make; in fact, it is +quite out of his province so to do, but he procures them ready for his +hand through some manufacturing chemist. The best preparation for +smelling-bottles is what is termed INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS, which +is prepared thus:-- + +Liquid ammonia, 1 pint. +Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm. + " English lavender, 1 " + " bergamot, 1/2 " + " cloves, 1/2 " + +Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and +well-stoppered bottle. + +This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous +absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge +cuttings, that have been well beaten, washed, and dried. These cuttings +can be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers, +being the trimming or roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut off +before the merchants send it into the retail market. After the bottles +are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the scented +ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain, when the +bottles are inverted; as, if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is +spilt over certain colored fabrics, it causes a stain. When such an +accident happens, the person who sold it is invariably blamed. + +When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the ammoniacal +odor longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled +in this way are called "inexhaustible," which name, however, they do not +sustain more than two or three months with any credit; the warm hand +soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to +be refilled. + +For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use +what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass). The bottles +being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, +scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. The necks of the bottles +are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from +the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and +causes complaints to be made. The crystals are prettier in colored +bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite +as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia better than +any other material. Perfumers sell also what is called WHITE +SMELLING SALTS, and PRESTON SALTS. The White Smelling Salt +is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any +perfuming otto that is thought fit,--lavender otto giving, as a general +rule, the most satisfaction. + +PRESTON SALTS, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal +compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and +lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate +of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with +this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is +poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of French +lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely +mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed +over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to +which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of +ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though +properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made--which is very +rarely the case--it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which +renders it characteristic. + +EAU DE LUCE. + +Tincture of benzoin: or, } + " balsam of Peru, } 1 oz. +Otto of lavender, 10 drops. +Oil of amber, 5 " +Liquor ammonia, 2 oz. + +If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered, +as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion. + +ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--The pungency of the odor +of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of +perfumery. + +The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is +the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists. + +The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized +with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus-- + +AROMATIC VINEGAR. + +Concentrated acetic acid, 8 oz. +Otto of English lavender, 2 drachms. + " " rosemary, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1 " + " camphor, 1 oz. + +First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the +perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional +agitation, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use. + +Several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published, +almost all of which, however, appear to complicate and mystify a process +that is all simplicity. + +The most popular article of this kind is-- + +HENRY'S VINEGAR. + +Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, + mint, and lavender flowers, each, 1/2 oz. +Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and + camphor, each, 1/4 oz. +Alcohol (rectified), 4 oz. +Concentrated acetic acid, 16 oz. + +Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid, and +digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14° C. or 15° C. +Finally, press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it. + +As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press, +for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue, it is +best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can, by means of a common +funnel, and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs, +by tying them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure by +means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer, or similar device. + +VINAIGRE A LA ROSE. + +Concentrated acetic acid, 1 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm. + +Well shaken together. + +It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a +similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto +of roses. All these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as +perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an +ornamental "smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of +sulphate of potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or +upon sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their +French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in the +presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of +infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the story of the "four +thieves' vinegar," which is thus rendered in Lewis's Dispensatory: + +"It is said that during the plague at Marseilles, four persons, by the +use of this preservative, attended, unhurt, multitudes of those that +were affected; that under the color of these services, they robbed both +the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards apprehended, one of +them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the +prophylactic (a very likely story!!), which was as follows:-- + +VINAIGRE DES QUATRE VOLEURS, OR FOUR THIEVES' VINEGAR. + +Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman + wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of + each, 3/4 oz. +Lavender flowers, 1 oz. +Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, + and nutmeg, each, 1 drachm. +Camphor, 1/2 oz. +Alcohol or brandy, 1 oz. +Strong vinegar, 4 pints. + +Digest all the materials, except the camphor and spirit, in a closely +covered vessel for a fortnight, at a summer heat; then express and +filter the vinaigre produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved +in the brandy or spirit." + +A very similar and quite as effective a preparation may be made by +dissolving the odorous principle of the plants indicated in a mixture of +alcohol and acetic acid. Such preparations, however, are more within the +province of the druggist than perfumer. There are, however, several +preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for mixing with +the water for lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors endeavoring +to place them in competition with Eau de Cologne, but with little +avail. Among them may be enumerated-- + +HYGIENIC OR PREVENTIVE VINEGAR. + +Brandy, 1 pint. +Otto of cloves, 1 drachm. + " lavender, 1 " + " marjoram, 1/2 drachm. +Gum benzoin, 1 oz. + +Macerate these together for a few hours, then add-- + +Brown vinegar, 2 pints. + +and strain or filter, if requisite, to be bright. + +TOILET VINEGAR (_à la Violette_). + +Extract of cassie, 1/2 pint. + " orris, 1/4 " +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/4 " +White wine vinegar, 2 pints. + +TOILET VINEGAR (_à la Rose_). + +Dried rose-leaves, 4 oz. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 pint. +White wine vinegar, 2 pints. + +Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle for +sale. + +VINAIGRE DE COLOGNE. + +To eau de Cologne, 1 pint, +Add, strong acetic acid, 1/2 oz. + +Filter if necessary. + +Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulæ, it will be obvious to +the reader that vinegar of any flower may be prepared in a similar way +to those above noticed; thus, for vinaigre à la jasmine, or for vinaigre +à la fleur d'orange, we have only to substitute the esprit de jasmine, +or the esprit de fleur d'orange, in place of the Eau de Cologne, to +produce orange-flower or jasmine vinegars; however, these latter +articles are not in demand, and our only reason for explaining how such +preparations may be made, is in order to suggest the methods of +procedure to any one desirous of making them leading articles in their +trade. + +We perhaps may observe, _en passant_, that where economy in the +production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of consideration, +they have only to be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable +strength required. + +Any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce opalescence, +when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic +vinegar, as above. Either myrrh, benzoin, storax, or tolu, answer +equally well. + + + + +SECTION VI. + +BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. + + +In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of +preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants. It will +have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the +form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not +been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty +body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the +exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems. +Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, +Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of +these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in +which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards +infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the +most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils +(_i.e._ otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The +simple odors, when isolated, are called ESSENTIAL OILS or +OTTOS; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by +the English they are termed ESSENCES, and by the French +EXTRAITS or ESPRITS; a few exceptions prove this rule. +Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed +in the trade "Essence" of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of +essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature +is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the +fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the +writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it +would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant, +brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that +such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We +should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender, +&c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used +the word OTTO in place of "essential oil," in accordance with +his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat +oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered +obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"--oil of +jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will +use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these +differences of composition. + +There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants +should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad +principle to give any class of substances the same signification as +those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing +qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical +reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large +class of substances known as the aroma of plants! + +When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies +were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the +old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a +little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use. +We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential +oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term +sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the +odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy +bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with +salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils, +_i.e._ what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the +contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances. + +The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its +literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy +substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials +which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled +with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no +longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have +almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like. + +It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates +to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulæ for preparing the +most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are +but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, +produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the +smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious +sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure. + +THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME. + +Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint. + " geranium, 1/2 " + " acacia, 1/4 " + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " + " civet, 1/4 " + +THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET. + +Extract of acacia, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange, } + " tubereuse, } + " civet, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 10 drops. + +BOUQUET D'AMOUR. + +Esprit de rose, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " violette, } + " cassie, } +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } + +Mix and filter. + +BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE. + +Extrait de jasmine, } + " rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " violette, } + " tuberose, } +Extract of orris, 1 " +Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz. + +BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET. + +Extrait de fleur d'orange,} + " cassie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " rose, } +Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. + " lavender, 1/2 " + " rose, 1 " + +BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES. + +Extrait de rose, } + " violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " tuberose, } +Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, } + " Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz. + " cedret, } + +THE COURT NOSEGAY. + +Extrait de rose, } + " violette, } of each, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } +Esprit de rose triple, 1 " +Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, } + " neroli, 1 drachm. + +EAU DE CHYPRE. + +This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the +_Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the +Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus-- + +Extract of musk, 1 pint. + " ambergris, } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/2 " + " tonquin bean, } + " orris, } +Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints. + +The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be +made. + +EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY. + +Extract of musk, } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " tonquin, } + " neroli, } + " geranium, } + " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " + " santal, } + +ESTERHAZY BOUQUET. + +Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint. +Esprit de rose triple, 1 " +Extract of vitivert, } + " vanilla, } of each, 2 " + " orris, } + " tonquin, } +Esprit de neroli, 1 " +Extract of ambergris, 1/2 " +Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm. + " cloves, 1/2 " + +Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that +gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited +greater _furor_ while in fashion. + +ESS BOUQUET. + +The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of +the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the +shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close +imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, +who are, in truth, the original makers. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. + " orris, 8 " +Otto of lemons, 1/4 " + " bergamot, 1 " + +The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere +contraction of "essence" of bouquet. + +EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La première qualité._) + +Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons. +Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz. + " " _Bigarade_, 1 " + " rosemary, 2 " + " orange-peel, 5 " + " citron-peel, 5 " + " bergamot-peel, 2 " + +Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly +quiet, before bottling. + +EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxième qualité._) + +Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons. +Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz. + " " _Petale_, 1/2 " + " rosemary, 2 " + " orange-peel, } + " lemon, } of each, 4 " + " bergamot, } + +Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a +sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, +not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial +qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the +purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public +taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and +evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called +"refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we +cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important +thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and +that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter +impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to +resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to +make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original +article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" +of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived +from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and +characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. +The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which +it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to +fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit, +that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous +substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives +a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence +the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of +this substance. + +Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the +ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, +first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the +mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, +such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne. + +A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been +published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no +knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on +paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the +aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, +hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, +cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, +peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c. + +All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit, +and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the +article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak +spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; +because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is +retained. + +The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show +that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit. + +FLOWERS OF ERIN. + +Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint. + " vanilla, 1 oz. + +ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +" neroli, } +" acacia, } +" fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 " +" musk, } +" orris, } +" tonquin, 1/2 " +Otto of citron 2 drachms. + +BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS. + +Esprit de rose,} +" tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. +" violette, } +Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 2 " +" lemon, } +" orange, } of each, 1/2 " + +THE GUARDS' BOUQUET. + +Esprit de rose, 2 pints. + " neroli, 1/2 pint. +Extract of vanilla, 2 oz. + " orris, 2 " + " musk, 1/4 pint. +Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. + +FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY. + +Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. + " rose triple, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " +Extract of cassie, 1/2 " + " musk, } + " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. + +JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._) + +Extract of orris root, 2 pints. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade, 1 " +Extrait de cassie, } + " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " + " ambergris, } 1/2 " +Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz. + +JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._) + +Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. + " tubereuse, 1 " + " cassie, 1/2 " + " jasmine, 1/4 " +Extract of civet, 3 oz. + +Independently of the materials employed being different to the original +English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are +made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are +made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for +some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on +account of the predominance of its own aroma. + +We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and +French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes +made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different +spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of +their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a +superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly +admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than +with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly +the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, +ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to +retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with +the British spirit. + +All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau +de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to +perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract +of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy +spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the +olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape +spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. +This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its +compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the +Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown +there. + +On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de +Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by +Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a +failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, +but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover +instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between +"Patent British" and foreign brandy. + +Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in +this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, +foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, +a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the +difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of +the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated +Cognac. + +Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have +thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to +impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the +market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very +badly made butyric ether. + +On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation +of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the +market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England +we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These +adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the +primitive alcohols. + +A JAPANESE PERFUME. + +Extract of rose triple, } + " vitivert, } + " patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " cedar, } + " santal, } + " vervaine, 1/4 " + +KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY. + +Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint. + " cassie, } + " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " jasmine, } + " geranium, 1/2 " + " musk, } of each, 3 oz. + " ambergris, } + +EAU DES MILLEFLEURS. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade,} + " tubereuse, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange,} + " cassie, } + " violette, } +Extract of cedar, 1/4 " +Extract of vanilla, } + " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. + " musk, } +Otto of almonds, } + " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. + " cloves, } + " bergamot, 1 oz. + +These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then +filtered prior to sale. + +MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER. + +Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint. +Eau des millefleurs, 1 " + +DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER. + +Spirits from grape, 1 pint. +French otto of lavender, 1 oz. +Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. + +The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its +peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although +some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; +hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, +and has almost superseded the original preparations. + +There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the +leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as +lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., +all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with +about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients. + +BOUQUET DU MARECHALE. + +Esprit de rose triple, } + } of each, 1 pint. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, } + + " vitivert, } + " vanilla, } + " orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " tonquin, } +Esprit de neroli, } +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " ambergris, } +Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. + " santal, } + +EAU DE MOUSSELAINE. + +Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint. +Extrait de cassie, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " tubereuse,} + " rose, } +Otto of santal, 2 drachms. + +BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER. + +Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade, 1 " + " rose triple, 1 " +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. + " bergarmot, 1/2 oz. + +CAPRICE DE LA MODE. + +Extrait de jasmine, } + " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " cassie, } + " fleur d'orange, } +Otto of almonds, 10 drops. + " nutmegs, 10 " +Extract of civet, 1/4 pint. + +MAY FLOWERS. + +Extract of rose (de pomade), } + " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, } + " cassie, } + " vanilla, 1 " +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY. + +Extrait de rose, triple, } + " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " vitivert, } + " patchouly, } + " verbena, 1/8 " + +BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS. + +Countries wherein the Odors + are produced. +TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. +AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " +ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 " +FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 " +SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 " +TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 " +ITALY, " violet, 1 " +HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 " +CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. +SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz. +TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint. + +ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET. + +Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. + " vitivert, 1/4 " + " santal, 1 " + " rose, 1/2 " + +BOUQUET DU ROI. + +Extract of jasmine, } + " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " rose } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " vitivert, } + " musk, } of each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + " cloves, 1 drachm. + +BOUQUET DE LA REINE. + +Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. +Extrait de violette, } + " tubereuse, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + +RONDELETIA. + +The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most +gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, +Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this +odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the +R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before +observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve +produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different +sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract +of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet +the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are +certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new +aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is +exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when +mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and +blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are +united, the compound color is known as puce or violet. + +Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce +a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that +constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, +is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, +and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when +so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used +accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a +like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal +proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or +hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that +patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the +vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most +delicate. + +Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we +express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, +as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. +By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in +the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is +pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a +warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to +cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the +general benefit of health. + +To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed +formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its +peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk, +vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other +bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the +handkerchief. + +ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA. + +Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. +Otto of lavender, 2 oz. + " cloves, 1 oz. + " roses, 3 drachms. + " bergamot, 1 oz. +Extract of musk, } + " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. + " ambergris, } + +The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. +Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit. + +BOUQUET ROYAL. + +Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " +Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " + " violet, } + " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. + " cassie, } +Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. + " bergamot, } +Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } + +SUAVE. + +Extract of tubereuse, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. + " cassie, } + " rose, } + " vanilla, 5 oz. + " musk, } each, 2 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + " cloves, 1 drachm. + +SPRING FLOWERS. + +Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. + " violet, } + " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. + " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. +Extract of ambergris, 1 oz. + +The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the +very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing +perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being +unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there +is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of +the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to +which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that +neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is +due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor +upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients +it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an +Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that +does not attempt an imitation. + + +TULIP NOSEGAY. + +Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are +inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an +exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the +purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, +and makes an excellent imitation thus:-- + +Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint. + " violet, } + " rose, 1/2 " + " orris, 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + + +VIOLETTE DES BOIS. + +Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing +the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers +sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of +the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:-- + +Extract of violet, 1 pint. +" orris, 3 oz. +" cassie, 3 oz. +" rose (from pomade) 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer +than the pure violet. + +WINDSOR CASTLE BOUQUET. + +Alcohol, 1 pint. +Otto of neroli, } +" rose, } each, 1/4 oz. +" lavender, } +" bergamot, } +" cloves, 8 drops. +Extract of orris, 1 pint. +" jasmine, } each, 1/4 " +" cassie, } +" musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz. +" ambergris, } + +YACHT CLUB BOUQUET. + +Extract of santal, 1 pint. + " neroli, 1 " + " jasmine, } each, 1/2 " + " rose triple, } + " vanilla, 1/4 " +Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz. + +We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates +to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too +much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of +so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. +Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar +character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand +recipes that have been practically tried. + +Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of +flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles. + + + + +SECTION VII. + + +The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the +present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,--sachet powders, tablets, +pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. +&c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more +than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and +shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very +extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures +for proofs:--"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and +frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, +3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is +considered as a sign of humiliation:--"The Lord will take away the +tablets, and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there +shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in +this passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, +and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of +buildings, which would explain the word _palaces_, in Psalm 14:8:--"All +thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of the ivory +palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt. +2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most +valuable gifts which man could bestow;--"And when they (the wise men) +had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; +gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all +the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period +of the world were _dry_ perfumes, consisting of spikenard (_Nardostachys +jatamansi_), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which +are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities +shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian +catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a +pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We +have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were +for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used. + + +SACHET POWDERS. + +The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these +substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, +find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of +imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. +The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either +to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted. + +SACHET AU CYPRE. + +Ground rose-wood, 1 lb. + " cedar-wood, 1 lb. + " santal-wood, 1 lb. +Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose, 3 drachms. + +Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale. + +SACHET A LA FRANGIPANNE. + +Orris-root powder, 3 lbs. +Vitivert powder, 1/4 lb. +Santal-wood powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of neroli, } + " rose, } of each, 1 drachm. + " santal, } +Musk-pods, ground, 1 oz. + +The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from +a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an +alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called +rosolis, or ros-solis, _sun-dew_, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as +a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, +in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk. + +HELIOTROPE SACHET. + +Powdered orris, 2 lbs. +Rose leaves, ground, 1 lb. +Tonquin beans, ground, 1/2 lb. +Vanilla beans, 1/4 lb. +Grain musk, 1/4 oz. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale. + +It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly _au naturel_ in +its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person +unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to +be any other than the "real thing." + +LAVENDER SACHET. + +Lavender flowers, ground, 1 lb. +Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lavender, 1/4 oz. + + +SACHET A LA MARECHALE. + +Powder of santal-wood, 1/2 lb. + " orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Rose-leaves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cassia-bark, 1/4 lb. +Grain musk, 1/2 drachm. + +SACHET A LA MOUSSELAINE. + +Vitivert, in powder, 1 lb. +Santal-wood, } +Orris, } each, 1/2 lb. +Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1/2 lb. +Benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of thyme, 5 drops. + " roses, 1/2 drachm. + +MILLEFLEUR SACHET. + +Lavender-flowers, ground, } +Orris, } each, 1 lb. +Rose-leaves, } +Benzoin, } +Tonquin, } +Vanilla, } each, 1/4 lb. +Santal, } +Musk and civet, 2 drachms. +Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. +Allspice, } + +PORTUGAL SACHET. + +Dried orange-peel, 1 lb. + " lemon-peel, 1/2 lb. + " orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Otto of orange-peel, 1 oz. + " neroli, 1/4 drachm. + " lemon-grass, 1/4 " + +PATCHOULY SACHET. + +Patchouly herb, ground, 1 lb. +Otto of patchouly, 1/4 drachm. + +Patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state, as imported, tied up +in bundles of half a pound each. + +POT POURRI. + +This is a mixture of dried flowers and spices _not_ ground. + +Dried lavender, 1 lb. +Whole rose-leaves, 1 lb. +Crushed orris (coarse), 1/2 lb. +Broken cloves, } + " cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. + " allspice, } +Table salt, 1 lb. + +We need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to increase the bulk +and weight of the product, in order to sell it cheap. + +OLLA PODRIDA. + +This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be +given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse +and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of +perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture +or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, +orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., +mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs. + +ROSE SACHET. + +Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. +Santal-wood, ground, 1/2 lb. +Otto of roses, 1/4 oz. + +SANTAL-WOOD SACHET. + +This is a good and economical sachet, and simply consists of the ground +wood. Santal-wood is to be purchased from some of the wholesale +drysalters; the drug-grinders are the people to reduce it to powder for +you--any attempt to do so at home will be found unavailable, on account +of its toughness. + +SACHET (_without a name_). + +Dried thyme, } + " lemon thyme, } of each, 1/4 lb. + " mint, } + " marjoram, } + " lavender, 1/2 lb. + " rose heels, 1 lb. +Ground cloves, 2 oz. +Allspice, 2 oz. +Musk in grain, 1 drachm. + +VERVAIN SACHET. + +Lemon-peel, dried and ground, 1 lb. + " thyme, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lemon-grass, 1 drachm. + " " peel, 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + +VITIVERT SACHET. + +The fibrous roots of the _Anthoxanthum muricatum_ being ground, +constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from the +Tamool name, _vittie vayer_, and by the Parisian _vetiver_. Its odor +resembles myrrh. Vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches, as +imported from India, than ground, and is used for the prevention of +moth, rather than as a perfume. + +VIOLET SACHET. + +Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1 lb. +Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. +Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. +Grain musk, 1 " +Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/2 lb. + +Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in a +glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale. + +There are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given, +but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater +variety than those named. There are, however, many other substances used +in a similar way; the most popular is the + +PEAU D'ESPAGNE. + +Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly perfumed +leather. Good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a +mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins, +thus:--Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of each half an ounce; otto +of lavender, verbena, bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce; otto of +cloves and cinnamon, of each two drachms; with any others thought fit. +In this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin; now place the +skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it over a line to dry. A +paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with +one drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum +tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence; a little of any of the +ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &c., +greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body; the skin being cut +up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over, +plaster fashion, with the last-named compost; two pieces being put +together, having the civet plaster inside them, are then to be placed +between sheets of paper, weighed or pressed, and left to dry thus for a +week; finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be +enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the taste of +the vender. + +Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and +hence they are frequently called "the inexhaustible sachet." Being +flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-paper. + +The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to +many; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is +tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree, with +which it is curried. The odor of Russia leather is, however, not +_recherché_ enough to be considered as a perfume; but, nevertheless, +leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any +sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree, especially +with otto of santal or lemon-grass (_Verbena_). In this manner the odor +of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly varied, and gives great +satisfaction, on account of the permanence of its perfume. + + +PERFUMED LETTER-PAPER. + +If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with paper, the latter +absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as "perfumed;" it is obvious +that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous +tinctures or ottos, on account of such matters interfering with the +fluidity of the ink and action of the pen; therefore, by the process of +infection, as it were, alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage. + +Besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as +dry perfumes, such as scented wadding, used for quilting into all sorts +of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir. Pincushions, jewel +cases, and the like are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply +steeped in some strong essence of musk, &c. + +PERFUMED BOOK-MARKERS. + +We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous +substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board +treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for +sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, +others with embroidery. + +CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS. + +Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, +perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. +The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made +glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the +vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or +gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things +are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in +the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used. + +PASTILS. + +There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils, or +pastilles, as they are more often called, from the French, has been +derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the +religious services:--"According to the custom of the priest's office, +his lot (Zacharias') was to burn incense when he went into the temple +of the Lord." (Luke 1:9.) "And thou shalt make an altar to burn +incense.... And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning +when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when he lighteth the lamps he +shall burn incense upon it." (Exodus 30.) + +An analogous practice is in use to the present day in the Roman Catholic +churches, but, instead of being consumed upon an altar, the incense is +burned in a censer, as doubtless many of our readers have seen. "As soon +as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the +holy place was filled with perfume, and the congregation without joined +in prayers." (_Carpenters Temple service of the Hebrews._) + +THE CENSER. + +"On the walls of every temple in Egypt, from Meröe to Memphis, the +censer is depicted smoking before the presiding deity of the place; on +the walls of the tombs glow in bright colors the preparation of spices +and perfumes." In the British Museum there is a vase (No. 2595) the body +of which is intended to contain a lamp, the sides being perforated to +admit the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes; which +are intended to contain ottos of flowers placed in the small vases at +the end of the tubes; the heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly +perfumes an apartment. This vase or censer is from an Egyptian catacomb. + +[Illustration: The Censer.] + +The Censer, as used in the "holy places," is made either of brass, +German silver, or the precious metals; its form somewhat resembles a +saucer and an inverted cup, which latter is perforated, to allow the +escape of the perfume. In the outer saucer is placed an inner one of +copper, which can be taken out and filled with ignited charcoal. When in +use, the ignited carbon is placed in the censer, and is then covered +with the incense; the heat rapidly volatilizes it in visible fumes. The +effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer, attached +to three long chains, in the air. The manner of swinging the censer +varies slightly in the churches in Rome, in France, and in England, some +holding it above the head. At LA MADELEINE the method is always +to give the censer a full swing at the greatest length of the chains +with the right hand, and to catch it up short with the left hand. + +Several samples of "incense prepared for altar service," as sent out by +Mr. Martin, of Liverpool, appear to be nothing more than gum olibanum, +of indifferent quality, and not at all like the composition as +especially commanded by God, the form for which is given in full in +Exodus. + +The pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight modification of +the incense of the ancients. For many years they were called Osselets of +Cyprus. In the old books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known +gum-resins was called Suffitus, which being thrown upon hot ashes +produced a vapor which was considered to be salutary in many diseases. + +It is under the same impression that pastils are now used, or at least +to cover the _mal odeur_ of the sick-chamber. + +There is not much variety in the formula of the pastils that are now in +use; we have first the + +INDIAN, OR YELLOW PASTILS. + +Santal-wood, in powder, 1 lb. +Gum benzoin, 1-1/2 lb. + " Tolu, 1/4 lb. +Otto of santal, } + " cassia, } each, 3 drachms. + " cloves, } +Nitrate of potass, 1-1/2 oz. +Mucilage of tragacantha, q.s. to make the whole into a stiff paste. + +The benzoin, santal-wood, and Tolu, are to be powdered and mixed by +sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre being dissolved in the +mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar, the pastils are +formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried. + +The Chinese josticks are of a similar composition, but contain no Tolu. +Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the +Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value +of santal-wood. + +DR. PARIS'S PASTILS. + +Benzoin, } +Cascarilla, } of each, 1/4 lb. +Myrrh, 1-1/4 oz. +Charcoal, 1-1/2 lb. +Otto of nutmegs, } of each, + " cloves, } 3/4 oz. +Nitre, 2 oz. + +Mix as in the preceding. + +PERFUMER'S PASTILS. + +Well-burned charcoal, 1 lb. +Benzoin, 3/4 lb. +Tolu, } +Vanilla pods, } of each, 1/4 lb. +Cloves, } +Otto of santal, } + " neroli, } of each, 2 dr. +Nitre, 1-1/2 oz. +Mucilage tragacantha, _q.s._ + +PIESSE'S PASTILS. + +Willow charcoal, 1/2 lb. +Benzoic acid, 6 oz. +Otto of thyme, } + " caraway, } + " rose, } of each, 1/2 dr. + " lavender,} + " cloves, } + " santal, } + +Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or +ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and +then allow it to dry in a warm place. + +When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed +ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting +(the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and +mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to +bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better. + +A great variety of formulæ have been published for the manufacture of +pastils; nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark, or aromatic +seeds. Now, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if +the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion--the slow +combustion--materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor; +in fact, the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized +aromatic ingredients; it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used +in lieu of other substances. The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely +for burning, producing, during its combustion, the heat required to +quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded. +The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and therefore +does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil. Such is, +however, not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not +in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of +heat. If combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the +aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides the +volatilized otto which the wood contains, all the compounds naturally +produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter, spoiling the true odor +of the other ingredients volatilized. + +There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally +where these products are the materials sought. By such fumigation, as +when brown paper is allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combustion) in a +room for the purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of +tobacco, that is, combustion with flame, there is no odor developed, but +by its slow combustion, according to the method adopted by those who +indulge in "the weed," the familiar aroma, "the cloud," is generated, +and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil +should not develope any odor of its own, but simply volatilize that +fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We think that +the fourth formula given above carries out that object. + +It does not follow that the formulæ that are here given produce at all +times the odor that is most approved; it is evident that in pastils, as +with other perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste. Many persons very +much object to the aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes +of cascarilla. + +THE PERFUME LAMP. + +Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum +remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of +Cambridge, made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of +perfuming apartments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Eau de +Cologne, and "trimmed" with a wick in the usual manner. Over the centre +of the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch above it, a small +ball of spongy platinum is placed, maintained in its position by being +fixed to a thin glass rod, which is inserted into the wick. + +[Illustration: Perfume Lamp.] + +Thus arranged, the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to burn until the +platinum becomes red hot; the flame may then be blown out, nevertheless +the platinum remains incandescent for an indefinite period. The +proximity of a red-hot ball to a material of the physical quality of Eau +de Cologne, diffused over a surface of cotton wick, as a matter of +course causes its rapid evaporation, and as a consequence the diffusion +of odor. + +Instead of the lamp being charged with Eau de Cologne, we may use Eau de +Portugal, vervaine, or any other spirituous essence. Several perfumers +make a particular mixture for this purpose, which is called + +EAU A BRULER. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 pint. +Tincture of benzoin, 2 oz. + " vanilla, 1 oz. +Otto of thyme, } + " mint, } of each, 1/2 drachm. + " nutmeg, } + +Another form, called + +EAU POUR BRULER. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Benzoic acid, 1/2 oz. +Otto of thyme, } of each, 1 drachm. + " caraway, } + " bergamot, 2 oz. + +Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps will, however +frequently observe that, whatever difference there may be in the +composition of the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of +similarity in the odor of the result when the platinum is in action. +This arises from the fact, that so long as there is the vapor of +alcohol, mixed with oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain +definite products always result, namely, acetic acid, aldehyde, and +acetal, which are formed more or less and impart a peculiar and rather +agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but which overpowers any other odor +that is present. + +FUMIGATING PAPER. + +There are two modes of preparing this article:-- + +1. Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip them into a solution of +alum--say, alum, one ounce; water, one pint. After they are thoroughly +moistened, let them be well dried; upon one side of this paper spread a +mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of Tolu +or Peruvian balsam, or the benzoin may be used alone. To spread the gum, +&c., it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel and +poured thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the surface with a hot +spatula. When required for use, slips of this paper are held over a +candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous matter, but not to +ignite it. The alum in the paper prevents it a to certain extent from +burning. + +2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of +saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one pint of +water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried. + +Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be +dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit, and with a brush spread +upon one side of the paper, which, being hung up, rapidly dries. + +Slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills, to be ignited, and +then to be blown out. + +The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion, +diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous +gums. If two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the +surface is dry, they will join and become as one. When cut into slips, +they form what are called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills. + + + + +SECTION VIII. + +PERFUMED SOAP. + + +The word soap, or sope, from the Greek _sapo_, first occurs in the works +of Pliny and Galen. Pliny informs us that soap was first discovered by +the Gauls, that it was composed of tallow and ashes, and that the German +soap was reckoned the best. According to Sismondi, the French historian, +a soapmaker was included in the retinue of Charlemagne. + +At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius A.D. 79), a +soap-boiler's shop with soap in it was discovered during some +excavations made there not many years ago. (_Starke's Letters from +Italy._) + +From these statements it is evident that the manufacture of soap is of +very ancient origin; indeed, Jeremiah figuratively mentions it--"For +though thou wash thee with natron, and take thee much soap, yet thine +iniquity is marked before me." (Jer. 2:22.) + +Mr. Wilson says that the earliest record of the soap trade in England is +to be found in a pamphlet in the British Museum, printed in 1641, +entitled "A short Account of the Soap Business." It speaks more +particularly about the duty, which was then levied for the first time, +and concerning certain patents which were granted to persons, chiefly +Popish recusants, for some pretended new invention of white soap, +"which in truth was not so." Sufficient is said here to prove that at +that time soap-making was no inconsiderable art. + +It would be out of place here to enter into the details of soap-making, +because perfumers do not manufacture that substance, but are merely +"remelters," to use a trade term. The dyer purchases his dye-stuffs from +the drysalters already fabricated, and these are merely modified under +his hands to the various purposes he requires; so with the perfumer, he +purchases the various soaps in their raw state from the soap-makers, +these he mixes by remelting, scents and colors according to the article +to be produced. + +The primary soaps are divided into hard and soft soaps: the hard soaps +contain soda as the base; those which are soft are prepared with potash. +These are again divisible into varieties, according to the fatty matter +employed in their manufacture, also according to the proportion of +alkali. The most important of these to the perfumer is what is termed +curd soap, as it forms the basis of all the highly-scented soaps. + +CURD SOAP is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine +tallow. + +OIL SOAP, as made in England, is an uncolored combination of +olive oil and soda, hard, close grain, and contains but little water in +combination. + +CASTILE SOAP, as imported from Spain, is a similar combination, +but is colored by protosulphate of iron. The solution of the salt being +added to the soap after it is manufactured, from the presence of +alkali, decomposition of the salt takes place, and protoxide of iron is +diffused through the soap of its well-known black color, giving the +familiar marbled appearance to it. When the soap is cut up into bars, +and exposed to the air, the protoxide passes by absorption of oxygen +into peroxide; hence, a section of a bar of Castile soap shows the outer +edge red-marbled, while the interior is black-marbled. Some Castile soap +is not artificially colored, but a similar appearance is produced by the +use of a barilla or soda containing sulphuret of the alkaline base, and +at other times from the presence of an iron salt. + +MARINE SOAP is a cocoanut-oil soap, of soda containing a great +excess of alkali, and much water combination. + +YELLOW SOAP is a soda soap, of tallow, resin, of lard, &c. &c. + +PALM SOAP is a soda soap of palm oil, retaining the peculiar +odor and color of the oil unchanged. The odoriferous principle of palm +oil resembling that from orris-root, can be dissolved out of it by +tincturation with alcohol; like ottos generally, it remains intact in +the presence of an alkali, hence, soap made of palm oil retains the odor +of the oil. + +The public require a soap that will not shrink and change shape after +they purchase it. It must make a profuse lather during the act of +washing. It must not leave the skin rough after using it. It must be +either quite inodorous or have a pleasant aroma. None of the above soaps +possess all these qualities in union, and, therefore, to produce such an +article is the object of the perfumer in his remelting process. + +Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap, in 1853, it was a +commercial impossibility for a perfumer to _manufacture_ soap, because +the law did not allow less than one ton of soap to be made at a time. +This law, which, with certain modifications had been in force since the +reign of Charles I, confined the actual manufacture of that article to +the hands of a few capitalists. Such law, however, was but of little +importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling plant and apparatus is not +very compatible with a laboratory of flowers; yet, in some exceptional +instances, these excise regulations interfered with him; such, for +instance, as that in making soft soap of lard and potash, known, when +perfumed, as _Crême d'Amande_; or unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream, +which has, in consequence of that law, been entirely thrown into the +hands of our continental neighbors. + +FIG SOFT SOAP is a combination of oils, principally olive oil +of the commonest kind, with potash. + +NAPLES SOFT SOAP is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil) and +potash, colored brown for the London shavers, retaining, when pure, its +unsophisticated "fishy" odor. + +The above soaps constitute the real body or base of all the fancy +scented soaps as made by the perfumers, which are mixed and remelted +according to the following formula:-- + +The remelting process is exceedingly simple. The bar soap is first cut +up into thin slabs, by pressing them against a wire fixed upon the +working bench. This cutting wire (piano wire is the kind) is made taut +upon the bench, by being attached to two screws. These screws regulate +the height of the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the +slabs from the bars. The soap is cut up into thin slabs, because it +would be next to impossible to melt a bar whole, on account of soap +being one of the worst conductors of heat. + +The melting pan is an iron vessel, of various sizes, capable of holding +from 28 lbs. to 3 cwt., heated by a steam jacket, or by a water-bath. +The soap is put into the pan by degrees, or what is in the vernacular +called "rounds," that is, the thin slabs are placed perpendicularly all +round the side of the pan; a few ounces of water are at the same time +introduced, the steam of which assists the melting. The pan being +covered up, in about half an hour the soap will have "run down." Another +round is then introduced, and so continued every half hour until the +whole "melting" is finished. The more water a soap contains, the easier +is it melted; hence a round of marine soap, or of new yellow soap, will +run down in half the time that it requires for old soap. + +When different soaps are being remelted to form one kind when finished, +the various sorts are to be inserted into the pan in alternate rounds, +but each round must consist only of one kind, to insure uniformity of +condition. As the soap melts, in order to mix it, and to break up lumps, +&c., it is from time to time "_crutched_." The "crutch" is an instrument +or tool for stirring up the soap; its name is indicative of its form, a +long handle with a short cross--an inverted 'T', curved to fit the curve +of the pan. When the soaps are all melted, it is then colored, if so +required, and then the perfume is added, the whole being thoroughly +incorporated with the crutch. + +[Illustration: Frame and Slab Gauge.] + +The soap is then turned into the "frame." The frame is a box made in +sections, in order that it can be taken to pieces, so that the soap can +be cut up when cold; the sections or "lifts" are frequently made of the +width of the intended bar of soap. + +[Illustration: Barring Gauge.] + +Two or three days after the soap has been in the frame, it is cool +enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or sections of the +frame; these slabs are set up edgeways to cool for a day or two more; it +is then barred by means of a wire. The lifts of the frame regulate the +widths of the bars; the gauge regulates their breadth. The density of +the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so that the +soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights; +that is, either into squares of four, six, or eight to the pound weight. +Latterly, various mechanical arrangements have been introduced for +soap-cutting, which in very large establishments, such as those at +Marseilles in France, are great economisers of labor; but in England the +"wire" is still used. + +[Illustration: Squaring Gauge.] + +[Illustration: Soap Scoop.] + +For making tablet shapes the soap is first cut into squares, and is +then put into a mould, and finally under a press--a modification of an +ordinary die or coin press. Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a +little tool called a "scoop," made of brass or ivory, being, in fact, a +ring-shaped knife. Balls are also made in the press with a mould of +appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained +by the press and appropriate moulds. The fruit-shaped soaps, after +leaving the mould, are dipped into melted wax, and are then colored +according to artificial fruit-makers' rules. + +[Illustration: Soap Press.] + +[Illustration: Moulds.] + +The "variegated" colored soaps are produced by adding the various +colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously mixed with water, to the +soap in a melted state; these colors are but slightly crutched in, hence +the streaky appearance or party color of the soap; this kind is also +termed "marbled" soap. + +ALMOND SOAP. + +This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil," +and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is +in reality constituted thus:-- + +Finest curd soap, 1 cwt. + " oil soap, 14 lbs. + " marine, 14 lbs. +Otto of almonds, 1-1/2 lb. + " cloves, 1/4 lb. + " caraway, 1/2 lb. + +By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be +added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish +with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before +turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume. + +Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial +essence of almonds (see ALMOND) for perfuming soap, it being +far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has +proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned by +Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it. + +CAMPHOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 28 lbs. +Otto of rosemary, 1-1/4 lb. +Camphor, 1-1/4 lb. + +Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition +of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted +and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch +for mixing. + +HONEY SOAP. + +Best yellow soap, 1 cwt. +Fig soft soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of citronella, 1-1/2 lb. + +WHITE WINDSOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 1 cwt. +Marine soap, 21 lbs. +Oil soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of caraway, 1-1/2 lbs. +" thyme, } +" rosemary, } of each 1/2 lb. +" cassia,} +" cloves,} of each 1/4 lb. + +BROWN WINDSOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 3/4 cwt. +Marine soap, 1/4 " +Yellow soap, 1/4 " +Oil soap, 1/4 " +Brown coloring (caramel), 1/2 pint. +Otto of caraway, } +" cloves, } +" thyme, } each, 1/2 lb. +" cassia, } +" petit grain, } +" French lavender, } + +SAND SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Marine soap, 7 lbs. +Sifted silver sand, 28 lbs. +Otto of thyme, } + " cassia, } + " caraway, } each, 2 oz. + " French lavender, } + +FULLER'S EARTH SOAP. + +Curd soap, 10-1/2 lbs. +Marine soap, 3-1/2 lbs. +Fuller's earth (baked), 14 lbs. +Otto of French lavender, 2 oz. +" origanum, 1 oz. + +The above forms are indicative of the method adopted for perfuming soaps +while hot or melted. + +All the very highly scented soaps are, however, perfumed cold, in order +to avoid the loss of scent, 20 per cent. of perfume being evaporated by +the hot process. + +The variously named soaps, from the sublime "Sultana" to the ridiculous +"Turtle's Marrow," we cannot of course be expected to notice; the reader +may, however, rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission. + +The receipts given produce only the finest quality of the article +named. Where cheap soaps are required, not much acumen is necessary to +discern that by omitting the expensive perfumes, or lessening the +quantity, the object desired is attained. Still lower qualities of +scented soap are made by using greater proportions of yellow soap, and +employing a very common curd, omitting the oil soap altogether. + +SCENTING SOAPS HOT. + +In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scenting soap involved +the necessity of melting it. The high temperature of the soap under +these circumstances involves the obvious loss of a great deal of perfume +by evaporation. With very highly scented soaps, and with perfume of an +expensive character, the loss of ottos is too great to be borne in a +commercial sense; hence the adoption of the plan of + +SCENTING SOAPS COLD. + +This method is exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small +batches, involving merely mechanical labor, the tools required being +simply an ordinary carpenter's plane, and a good marble mortar, and +lignum vitæ pestle. + +The woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at each end, so that when +placed over the mortar it remains firm and not easily moved by the +parallel pressure of the soap against its projecting blade. + +To commence operations, we take first 7 lbs., 14 lbs., or 21 lbs. of the +bars of the soap that it is intended to perfume. The plane is now laid +upside down across the top of the mortar. + +Things being thus arranged, the whole of the soap is to be pushed across +the plane until it is all reduced into fine shavings. Like the French +"Charbonnier," who does not saw the wood, but woods the saw, so it will +be perceived that in this process we do not plane the soap, but that we +soap the plane, the shavings of which fall lightly into the mortar as +quickly as produced. + +[Illustration: Soaping the Plane.] + +Soap, as generally received from the maker, is the proper condition for +thus working; but if it has been in stock any time it becomes too hard, +and must have from one to three ounces of distilled water sprinkled in +the shaving for every pound of soap employed, and must lay for at least +twenty-four hours to be absorbed before the perfume is added. + +When it is determined what size the cakes of soap are to be, what they +are to sell for, and what it is intended they should cost, then the +maker can measure out his perfume. + +In a general way, soaps scented in this way retail from 4_s._ to 10_s._ +per pound, bearing about 100 per cent. profit, which is not too much +considering their limited sale. The soap being in a proper physical +condition with regard to moisture, &c., is now to have the perfume well +stirred into it. The pestle is then set to work for the process of +incorporation. After a couple of hours of "warm exercise," the soap is +generally expected to be free from streaks, and to be of one uniform +consistency. + +For perfuming soap in large portions by the cold process, instead of +using the pestle and mortar as an incorporator, it is more convenient +and economical to employ a mill similar in construction to a cake +chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill; any mechanical apparatus that +answers for mixing paste and crushing lumps will serve pretty well for +blending soap together. + +Before going into the mill, the soap is to be reduced to shavings, and +have the scent and color stirred in; after leaving it, the flakes or +ribands of soap are to be finally bound together by the pestle and +mortar into one solid mass; it is then weighed out in quantities for the +tablets required, and moulded by the hand into egg-shaped masses; each +piece being left in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet +of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the +press, which is the same as that previously mentioned. It is usual, +before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to dust them over with a +little starch-powder, or else to very slightly oil the mould; either of +these plans prevents the soap from adhering to the letters or embossed +work of the mould--a condition essential for turning out a clean +well-struck tablet. + +The body of all the fine soaps mentioned below should consist of the +finest and whitest curd soap, or of a soap previously melted and colored +to the required shade, thus:-- + +ROSE-COLORED SOAP is curd soap stained with vermilion, ground +in water, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted, and not very +hot. + +GREEN SOAP is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap, to +which is added powdered smalt ground with water. + +BLUE SOAP, curd soap colored with smalt. + +BROWN SOAP, curd soap with caramel, _i.e._ burnt sugar. + +The intensity of color varies, of course, with the quantity of coloring. + +Some kinds of soap become colored or tinted to a sufficient extent by +the mere addition of the ottos used for scenting, such as "spermaceti +soap," "lemon soap," &c., which become of a beautiful pale lemon color +by the mere mixing of the perfume with the curd soap. + + +OTTO OF ROSE SOAP. + +(_To retail at 10s. per pound_.) + +Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion), 4-1/2 lbs. +Otto of rose, 1 oz. +Spirituous extract of musk, 2 oz. +Otto of santal, 1/4 oz. + " geranium, 1/4 oz. + +Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together. + +TONQUIN MUSK SOAP. + +Pale brown-colored curd soap, 5 lbs. +Grain musk, 1/4 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + +Rub the musk with the bergamot, then add it to the soap, and beat up. + +ORANGE-FLOWER SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Otto of neroli, 3-1/2 oz. + +SANTAL-WOOD SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Otto of santal, 7 oz. +" bergamot, 2 oz. + +SPERMACETI SOAP. + +Curd soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 2-1/2 lbs. + " lemon, 1/2 lb. + +CITRON SOAP. + +Curd soap, 6 lbs. +Otto of citron, 3/4 lb. + " verbena (lemon-grass), 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, 4 oz. + " lemon, 2 oz. + +One of the best of fancy soaps that is made. + +FRANGIPANNE SOAP. + +Curd soap (previously colored light brown), 7 lbs. +Civet, 1/4 oz. +Otto of neroli, 1/2 oz. +" santal, 1-1/2 oz. +" rose, 1/4 oz. +" vitivert, 1/2 oz. + +Rub the civet with the various ottos, mix, and beat in the usual manner. + +PATCHOULY SOAP. + +Curd soap, 4-1/2 lbs. +Otto of patchouly, 1 oz. +" santal, } +" vitivert, } of each, 1/4 oz. + +SAPONACEOUS CREAM OF ALMONDS. + +The preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap of lard. It +has a beautiful pearly appearance, and has met with extensive demand as +a shaving soap. Being also used in the manufacture of +EMULSINES, it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by +the perfumer. It is made thus:-- + +Clarified lard, 7 lbs. +Potash of lye (containing 26 per cent. of caustic + potash), 3-3/4 lbs. +Rectified spirit, 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 2 drachms. + +_Manipulation_.--Melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by a salt-water +bath, or by a steam heat under 15 lbs. pressure; then run in the lye, +_very slowly_, agitating the whole time; when about half the lye is in, +the mixture begins to curdle; it will, however, become so firm that it +cannot be stirred. The crême is then finished, but is not pearly; it +will, however, assume that appearance by long trituration in a mortar, +gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved the perfume. + +SOAP POWDERS. + +These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifrice and at others for +shaving; they are made by reducing the soap into shavings by a plane, +then thoroughly drying them in a warm situation, afterwards grinding in +a mill, then perfuming with any otto desired. + +RYPOPHAGON SOAP. + +Best yellow soap, } +Fig soft soap, } equal parts melted together. + +Perfume with anise and citronella. + +AMBROSIAL CREAM. + +Color the grease very strongly with alkanet root, then proceed as for +the manufacture of saponaceous cream. The cream colored in this way has +a blue tint; when it is required of a purple color we have merely to +stain the white saponaceous cream with a mixture of vermilion and smalt +to the shade desired. Perfume with otto of oringeat. + +TRANSPARENT SOFT SOAP. + +Solution caustic potash (_Lond. Ph_.), 6 lbs. +Olive oil, 1 lb. + +Perfume to taste. + +Before commencing to make the soap, reduce the potash lye to one half +its bulk by continued boiling. Now proceed as for the manufacture of +saponaceous cream. After standing a few days, pour off the waste liquor. + +TRANSPARENT HARD SOAP. + +Reduce the soap to shavings, and dry them as much as possible, then +dissolve in alcohol, using as little spirit as will effect the solution, +then color and perfume as desired, and cast the product in appropriate +moulds; finally dry in a warm situation. + +Until the Legislature allows spirit to be used for manufacturing +purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our neighbors in this +article. + +JUNIPER TAR SOAP. + +This soap is made from the tar of the wood of the _Juniperus communis_, +by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable oil, such as almond or olive oil, +or in fine tallow, and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye, after +the customary manner. This yields a moderately firm and clear soap, +which may be readily used by application to parts affected with +eruptions at night, mixed with a little water, and carefully washed off +the following morning. This soap has lately been much used for eruptive +disorders, particularly on the Continent, and with varying degrees of +success. It is thought that the efficient element in its composition is +a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known in Paris under the +name _huile de cade_. On account of its ready miscibility with water, it +possesses great advantage over the common tar ointment. + +MEDICATED SOAPS. + +Six years ago I began making a series of medicated soaps, such as +SULPHUR SOAP, IODINE SOAP, BROMINE SOAP, CREOSOTE SOAP, MERCURIAL +SOAP, CROTON OIL SOAP, and many others. These soaps are prepared by +adding the medicant to curd soap, and then making in a tablet form for +use. For sulphur soap, the curd soap may be melted, and flowers of +sulphur added while the soap is in a soft condition. For antimony soap +and mercurial soap, the low oxides of the metals employed may also be +mixed in the curd soap in a melted state. Iodine, bromine, creosote +soap, and others containing very volatile substances, are best prepared +cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant +with it by long beating. + +In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they +will prove of infinite service as auxiliaries to the general treatment. +It is obvious that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active +during the lavoratory process; such soap must not, therefore, be used +except by the special advice of a medical man. Probably these soaps will +be found useful for internal application. The precedent of the use of +Castile soap (containing oxide of iron) renders it likely that when +prejudice has passed away, such soaps will find a place in the +pharmacopoeias. The discovery of the solubility, under certain +conditions, of the active alkaloids, quinine, morphia, &c., in oil, by +Mr. W. Bastick, greatly favors the supposition of analogous compounds in +soap. + + + + +SECTION IX. + +EMULSINES. + + +From soaps proper we now pass to those compounds used as substitutes for +soap, which are classed together under one general title as above, for +the reason that all cosmetiques herein embraced have the property of +forming emulsions with water. + +Chemically considered, they are an exceedingly interesting class of +compounds, and are well worthy of study. Being prone to decomposition, +as might be expected from their composition, they should be made only in +small portions, or, at least, only in quantities to meet a ready sale. + +While in stock they should be kept as cool as possible, and free from a +damp atmosphere. + +AMANDINE. + +Fine almond oil, 7 lbs. +Simple syrup,[E] 4 oz. +White soft soap, or saponaceous cream, _i.e._ } + Crême d'Amande, } 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + " cloves, 1/2 oz. + +Rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture is homogeneous, then +rub in the oil by degrees; the perfume having been previously mixed with +the oil. + +[Illustration: Oil-Runner in Emulsine Process.] + +In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the difficulty is to get in +the quantity of oil indicated, without which it does not assume that +transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. To attain +this end, the oil is put into "a runner," that is, a tin or glass +vessel, at the bottom of which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The +oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run slowly into the mortar +in which the amandine is being made, just as fast as the maker finds +that he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and syrup; and so long +as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the +hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar quicker than the +workman can blend it with the paste, then the paste becomes "oiled," and +may be considered as "done for," unless, indeed, the whole process be +gone through again, starting off with fresh syrup and soap, using up the +greasy mass as if it were pure oil. This liability to "go off," +increases as the amandine nears the finish; hence extra caution and +plenty of "elbow grease" must be used during the addition of the last +two pounds of oil. If the oil be not perfectly fresh, or if the +temperature of the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat, it +will be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the +formula into combination; when the mass becomes bright and of a +crystalline lustre, it will be well to stop the further addition of oil +to it. + +This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the +lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to +exclude air. When the amandine is filled into the jars, the top or face +of it is marked or ornamented with a tool made to the size of half the +diameter of the interior of the jar, in a similar way to a saw; a piece +of lead or tortoise-shell, being serrated with an angular file, or piece +of an "old saw," will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, +and turn the jar gently round. + +OLIVINE. + +Gum acacia, in powder, 2 oz. +Honey, 6 oz. +Yolk of eggs, in number, 5. +White soft soap, 3 oz. +Olive oil, 2 lbs. +Green oil, 1 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" lemon, 1 oz. +" cloves, 1/2 oz. +" thyme and cassia, each, 1/2 drachm. + +Rub the gum and honey together until incorporated, then add the soap +and egg. Having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the +mixture is to be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly +as indicated for amandine. + +HONEY AND ALMOND PASTE. (_Pâte d'Amande au Miel_.) + +Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1/2 lb. +Honey, 1 lb. +Yolk of eggs, in number, 8. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + " cloves, 1/4 oz. + +Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and +finally the ground almonds and the perfume. + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1-1/2 lb. +Rose-water, 1-1/2 pint. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 16 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 3 oz. + +Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stewpan; +with a slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their granular +texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the +whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan, +and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odor. + +The large quantity of otto of almonds which is volatilized during the +process, renders it essential that the operator should avoid the vapor +as much as possible. + +When the almonds are nearly cooked, the remaining water is to be added; +finally the paste is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the pestle; +then the perfume and spirit are added. Before potting this paste, as +well as honey paste, it should be passed through a medium fine sieve, to +insure uniformity of texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly. + +Other pastes, such as _Pâte de Pistache_, _Pâte de Cocos_, _Pâte de +Guimauve_, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is +unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not be +confounded with preparations bearing a similar name made by +confectioners. + +ALMOND MEAL. + +Ground almonds, 1 lb. +Wheat flour, 1 lb. +Orris-root powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. + " almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +PISTACHIO NUT MEAL, OR ANY OTHER NUT. + +Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds } + are bleached), } 1 lb. +Orris powder, 1 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1 drachm. + " lemons, 1/2 oz. + +Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are +occasionally in demand, and are prepared as the foregoing. + +All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory process as +substitutes for soap, and to "render the skin pliant, soft, and fair!" + +EMULSIN AU JASMIN. + +Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. +Simple syrup, 1-1/2 oz. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Best jasmine oil, 1/2 lb. + +EMULSIN A LE VIOLETTE. + +Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. +Syrup of violets, 1-1/2 oz. +Best violet oil, 1-1/2 lb. + +Emulsin of other odors can be prepared with tubereuse, rose, or cassie +(acacia) oil (prepared by enfleurage or maceration). + +For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see "Amandine," p. 195. + +On account of the high price of the French oils, these preparations are +expensive, but they are undoubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques. + + + + +SECTION X. + +MILK, OR EMULSIONS. + + +In the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready sale than +that class of cosmetiques denominated milks. It has long been known that +nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts, when decorticated +and freed from their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and +rubbed with about four times their weight of water, produce fluid which +has every analogy to cow's milk. The milky appearance of these emulsions +is due to the minute mechanical division of the oil derived from the +nuts being diffused through the water. All these emulsions possess great +chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition, and the +products emanating from their fermentation, especially that made with +sweet almonds and pistachios (_Pistachia vera_). + +In the manufacture of various milks for sale, careful manipulation is of +the utmost importance, otherwise these emulsions "will not keep;" hence +more loss than profit. + +"Transformation takes place in the elements of vegetable caseine +(existing in seeds) from _the very moment_ that sweet almonds are +converted into almond-milk."--LIEBIG. This accounts for the +difficulty many persons find in making milk of almonds that does not +spontaneously divide, a day or so after its manufacture. + +MILK OF ROSES. + +Valencia almonds (blanched), 1/2 lb. +Rose-water, 1 quart. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 1/4 pint. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. +White wax, spermaceti, oil soap, each, 1/2 oz. + +_Manipulation_.--Shave up the soap, and place it in a vessel that can be +heated by steam or water-bath; add to it two or three ounces of +rose-water. When the soap is perfectly melted, add the wax and +spermaceti, without dividing them more than is necessary to obtain the +correct weight; this insures their melting slowly, and allows time for +their partial saponification by the fluid soap; occasional stirring is +necessary. While this is going on, blanch the almonds, carefully +excluding every particle that is in the least way damaged. Now proceed +to beat up the almonds in a scrupulously clean mortar, allowing the +rose-water to trickle into the mass by degrees; the runner, as used for +the oil in the manufacture of olivine, is very convenient for this +purpose. When the emulsion of almonds is thus finished, it is to be +strained, _without pressure_, through clean _washed_ muslin (_new_ +muslin often contains starch, flour, gum, or dextrine). + +The previously-formed saponaceous mixture is now to be placed in the +mortar, and the ready-formed emulsion in the runner; the soapy compound +and the emulsion is then carefully blended together. As the last of the +emulsion runs into the mortar, the spirit, in which the otto of roses +has been dissolved, is to take its place, and to be _gradually_ trickled +into the other ingredients. A too sudden addition of the spirit +frequently coagulates the milk and causes it to be curdled; as it is, +the temperature of the mixture rises, and every means must be taken to +keep it down; the constant agitation and cold mortar effecting that +object pretty well. Finally, the now formed milk of roses is to be +strained. + +The almond residue may be washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water, +in order to prevent any loss in bulk to the whole given quantity. The +newly-formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a tap in it +about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. After standing perfectly +quiet for twenty-four hours it is fit to bottle. All the above +precautions being taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without +precipitate or creamy supernatation. These directions apply to all the +other forms of milk now given. + +MILK OF ALMONDS. + +Bitter almonds (blanched), 10 oz. +Distilled (or rose) water, 1 quart. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 3/4 pint.[F] +Otto of almonds, 1/2 drachm. + " bergamot, 2 drachms. +Wax, spermaceti, } +Almond oil, curd soap, } each, 1/2 oz. + +MILK OF ELDER. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Elder-flower water, 1 pint. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 8 oz. +Oil of elder flowers, prepared by maceration, 1/2 oz. +Wax, sperm, soap, each, 1/2 oz. + +MILK OF DANDELION. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. +Expressed juice of dandelion root, 1 oz. +Esprit tubereuse, 8 oz. +Green oil, wax, } +Curd soap, } each 1/2 oz. + +Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh pressed; as it is in +itself an emulsion, it may be put into the mortar after the almonds are +broken up, and stirred with the water and spirit in the usual manner. + +MILK OF CUCUMBER. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Expressed juice of cucumbers, 1 pint. +Spirit (60 o.p.), 8 oz. +Essence of cucumbers, 1/4 pint. +Green oil, wax, } +Curd soap, } each 1/2 oz. + +Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute, +cool it as quickly as possible, then strain through fine muslin; proceed +to manipulate in the usual manner. + +ESSENCE OF CUCUMBERS. + +Break up in a mortar 28 lbs. of good fresh cucumbers; with the pulp +produced mix 2 pints rectified spirit (sp. gr. .837), and allow the +mixture to stand for a day and night; then distil the whole, and draw +off a pint and a half. The distillation may be continued so as to obtain +another pint fit for ulterior purposes. + +CREME DE PISTACHE. (_Milk of Pistachio Nuts_.) + +Pistachio nuts, 3 oz. +Orange-flower water, 3-1/4 pints. +Esprit neroli, 3/4 pint. +Palm soap, } +Green oil, wax, } each, 1 oz. +Spermaceti, } + +LAIT VIRGINAL. + +Rose-water, 1 quart. +Tincture benzoin, 1/2 oz. + +Add the water very slowly to the tincture; by so doing an opalescent +milky fluid is produced, which will retain its consistency for many +years; by reversing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, +a cloudy precipitate of the resinous matter ensues, which does not again +become readily suspended in the water. + +EXTRACT OF ELDER FLOWERS. + +Elder-flower water, 1 quart. +Tincture benzoin, 1 oz. + +Manipulate as for virgin's milk. + +Similar compounds may, of course, be made with orange-flower and other +waters. + + + + +SECTION XI. + +COLD CREAM. + + +GALEN, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in Asia, but who +distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria, and Rome, about 1700 years +ago, was the inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and +water, which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as +_Ceratum Galeni_ in Pharmacy. + +The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a different thing +to that given in the works of Galen in point of odor and quality, +although substantially the same--grease and water. In perfumery there +are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor, such as +that of camphor, almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by +English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but +throughout Europe; the quantity exported, and which can only be reckoned +by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements that may +be seen in the shops on the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of +"Cold Crême Anglaise," is good proof of the estimation in which it is +held. + +ROSE COLD CREAM. + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +White wax, } +spermaceti, } each, 1 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm. + +_Manipulation_.--Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel, which +should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice +the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm; now +put the jar into a boiling bath of water; when these materials are +melted, add the oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the +flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied; now remove the jar and contents, +and set it under a runner containing the rose-water: the runner may be a +tin can, with a small tap at the bottom, the same as used for the +manufacture of milk of roses. A stirrer must be provided, made of +lancewood, flat, and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence, +resembling in form a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is +set running, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the +water has passed into it; now and then the flow of water must be +stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down, +and incorporated with that which remains fluid. When the whole of the +water has been incorporated, the cream will be cool enough to pour into +the jars for sale; at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The +reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious--the +heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by +evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars +into which it is poured, and retains "a face" resembling pure wax, +although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream. +When the pots are well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years. +If desired for exportation to the East or West Indies, it should always +be sent out in stoppered bottles. + +COLD CREAM OF ALMONDS + +Is prepared precisely as the above; but in place of otto of roses otto +of almonds is used. + +VIOLET COLD CREAM. + +Huile violette, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Wax and spermaceti, each, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +VIOLET COLD CREAM. IMITATION. + +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Huile cassie, 1/4 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Sperm and wax, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired. + +TUBEREUSE, JASMINE, AND FLEUR D'ORANGE COLD CREAMS. + +Are prepared in similar manner to violet (first form); they are all very +exquisite preparations, but as they _cost_ more than rose cold cream, +perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter. + +CAMPHOR COLD CREAM. (_Otherwise Camphor Ice_.) + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Wax and Spermaceti, 1 oz. +Camphor, 2 oz. +Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm. + +Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil, then manipulate as for +cold cream of roses. + +CUCUMBER COLD CREAM. (_Crême de Concombre_.) + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Green oil, 1 oz. +Juice of cucumber, 1 lb. +Wax and sperm, each, 1 oz. +Otto of neroli, 1/4 drachm. + +The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to +pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be raised to a +temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which +it contains, and then strained through fine linen, as the heat is +detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto +of cucumber. The following method may be adopted with advantage:--Slice +the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the oil; +after remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation, +using fresh fruit in the strained oil; no warmth is necessary, or at +most, not more than a summer heat; then proceed to make the cold cream +in the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorized, the rose-water, +and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with +a little neroli. + +Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the +Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit, +thus:--The lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a +water-bath; the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it; the vessel +containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool. +The lard will rise to the surface, and when cold must be removed from +the fluid juice; the same manipulation being repeated as often as +required, according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the +grease. + +PIVERS' POMADE OF CUCUMBER. + +Benzoinated lard, 6 lbs. +Spermaceti, 2 lbs. +Essence of cucumbers, 1 lb. + +Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep it constantly in motion while +it cools, now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the essence +of cucumbers; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated, +and the pomade is beautifully white. + +_Melons_ and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same +way. (See "Essence of Cucumbers," p. 204.) + +POMADE DIVINE. + +Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade divine, like James's +powder, has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine +expectations of its concoctors. This article strictly belongs to the +druggist, being sold as a remedial agent; nevertheless, what _is_ sold +is almost always vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus:-- + +Spermaceti, 1/4 lb. +Lard, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Gum benzoin, 1/4 lb. +Vanilla beans, 1-1/2 oz. + +Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not +exceeding 90° C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may be +poured into the bottles for sale. (Must be _stamped_ if its medicinal +qualities are stated.) + +ALMOND BALLS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1/2 lb. +Otto of almonds, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1/4 drachm. + +CAMPHOR BALLS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1/2 lb. +Camphor, 1/4 lb. +Otto of French lavender or rosemary, 1/2 oz. + +Both the above articles are sold either white or colored with alkanet +root. When thoroughly melted, the material is cast in a mould; ounce +gallipots with smooth bottoms answer very well for casting in. Some +venders use only large pill-boxes. + +CAMPHOR PASTE. + +Sweet almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Purified lard, 1/4 lb. +Wax and spermaceti, } +Camphor, } each, 1 oz. + +GLYCERINE BALSAM. + +White wax, } +Spermaceti, } each, 1 oz. +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Glycerine, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm. + +Of the remedial action of any of the above preparations we cannot here +discuss; in giving the formulæ, it is enough for us that they are sold +by perfumers. + +ROSE LIP SALVE. + +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Spermaceti and wax, each, 2 oz. +Alkanet root, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm. + +Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated +by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest +on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; +finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it +cools. + +WHITE LIP SALVE. + +Almond oil, 1/4 lb. +Wax and Spermaceti, each, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1/2 drachm. + " geranium, 1/4 " + +After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron +must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat +radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it +an even face. + +COMMON LIP SALVE + +Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet +root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve. + + + + +SECTION XII. + +POMADES AND OILS. + + +The name of pomatum is derived from _pomum_, an apple, because it was +originally made by macerating over-ripe apples in grease. + +If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves, then exposed +to the air for a few days, and afterwards macerated in purified melted +lard, or any other fatty matter, the grease will become perfumed. +Repeating the operation with the same grease several times, produces +real "pomatum." + +According to a recipe published more than a century ago the form given +is:--"Kid's grease, an orange sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water, +and half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last +sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds." The author, Dr. Quincy, observes, +that "the apple is of no significance at all in the recipe," and, like +many authors of the present day, concludes that the reader is as well +acquainted with the subject as the writer, and therefore considers that +the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe are, likewise, of no +significance. According to ancient writers, unguent, pomatum, ointment, +are synonymous titles for medicated and perfumed greases. Among biblical +interpreters, the significant word is mostly rendered "ointment;" thus +we have in Prov. 27:9, "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart;" in +Eccles. 9:8, "Let thy head lack no ointment." + +Perfumers, acting upon their own or Dr. Quincy's advice, pay no regard +to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming +lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of them +or all blended, to produce a particular result, according to the name +that it bears. + +The most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum, &c., +is to start off with a _perfectly inodorous_ grease, whatever that +grease may be. + +Inodorous lard is obtained thus:--Take, say 28 lbs. of _perfectly fresh_ +lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel, that can be submitted to the +heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam under a slight pressure; +when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two +ounces of table salt; maintain the heat for some time, in fact till a +scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine +compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off; when the liquid +grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold. + +The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a time, +and is a work of much labor, which, however, is amply repaid by the +result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a +little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over +it; the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative +working a muller over it, precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in +oil. In this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt, also the +last traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole +is washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to +drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished. + +Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and takes a good +deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for perfuming with +flowers, because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its +_mal odeur_ than the expense of thus deodorizing it. Moreover, if lard +be used that "smells of the pig," it is next to impossible to impart to +it any delicate odor; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos, +the unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly becomes rancid. Under +any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not _perfectly inodorous_ +is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades. + +In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are +made by ENFLEURAGE, or by MACERATION[G] (see pp. 37, +38), the purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures is +of sufficient importance to become a separate trade. + +The purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great measure the same +as that for lard: the greater solidity of suets requires a mechanical +arrangement for washing them of a more powerful nature than can be +applied by hand labor. Mr. Ewen, who is undoubtedly the best +fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating upon a circular +slab; motion is given to the roller by an axle which passes through the +centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which the suet is placed; +being higher in the centre than at the sides, the stream of water flows +away after it has once passed over the suet; in other respects the +treatment is the same as for lard. These greases used by perfumers have +a general title of "body," tantamount to the French nomenclature of +_corps_; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft +corps (lard). For making _extraits_, such as extrait de violette, +jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred; but when scented +pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair, pomades of +soft corps are the most useful. + +The method of perfuming grease by the direct process with flowers having +already been described under the respective names of the flowers that +impart the odor thereto, it remains now only to describe those compounds +that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected +with this branch of perfumery as has not been previously mentioned. + +ACACIA POMADE, commonly called CASSIE POMATUM, is made +with a purified body-grease, by maceration with the little round yellow +buds of the _Acacia Farnesiana_. + +Black currant leaves, and which the French term _cassie_, have an odor +very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used extensively for +adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils. The near similarity of +name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical +connection), together with the word _cassia_, a familiar perfume in +England, has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the +true origin of the odor now under discussion. Cassie, casse, cassia, it +will be understood now, are three distinct substances; and in order to +render the matter more perspicuous in future, the materials will always +be denominated ACACIA, if prepared from the _Acacia +Farnesiana_; CASSE, when from _black currant_; and +CASSIA, if derived from the bark of the _Cinnamomum Cassia_. + +BENZOIN POMADE AND OIL. + +Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an ounce of +benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil, +deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals +that effloresce from vanilla beans; a portion of the acid, however, +remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to +it the peculiar aroma of benzoin; upon this idea is based the principle +of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process, that is, by +macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours, +at a temperature of about 80° C. to 90° C. Nearly all the gum-resins +give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies, when treated in the +same way; this fact becoming generally known, will probably give rise to +the preparation of some new remedial ointments, such as _Unguentum +myrrhæ_, _Unguentum assafoetida_, and the like. + +TONQUIN POMADE, and TONQUIN OIL, are prepared by +macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either melted fat or warm oil, +from twelve to twenty-eight hours, in the proportion of + +Tonquin beans, 1/2 lb. +Fat or oil, 4 lbs. + +Strain through fine muslin; when cold, the grease will have a fine odor +of the beans. + +VANILLA OIL AND POMADE. + +Vanilla pods, 1/4 lb. +Fat or oil, 4 lbs. + +Macerate at a temperature of 25° C. for three or four days; finally +strain. + +These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles +already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all +the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and +oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various +ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the +foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease, +however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is +far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos. + +The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly +because their perfume is lasting and flowery. + +POMADE CALLED BEAR'S GREASE. + +The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:-- + +Huile de rose, } +" fleur d'orange, } +" acacia, } of each, 1/2 lb. +" tubereuse and jasmin,} +Almond oil, 10 lbs. +Lard, 12 lbs. +Acacia pomade, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 4 oz. +" cloves, 2 oz. + +Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath, +then add the ottos. + +Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to "set" in the pots at +a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if required for exportation to +the East or West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums +instead of oils, or more lard and less almond oil. + +CIRCASSIAN CREAM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +Benzoin suet, 1 lb. +French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, colored with alkanet, 2 lbs. +Otto of rose, 1/4 oz. + +BALSAM OF FLOWERS. + +French rose pomatum, 12 oz. +" violet pomatum, 12 oz. +Almond oil, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + +CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_First quality_). + +Huile de rose, 1 lb. +" tubereuse, 1 lb. +" fleur d'orange, 1/2 lb. +Spermaceti, 8 oz. + +CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_Second quality_.) + +Almond, 2-1/2 lbs. +Spermaceti, 1/2 lb. +Otto of lemon, 3 oz. + +Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath, then add the +oils; continue the heat until all flocks disappear; let the jars into +which it is poured be warm; cool as slowly as possible, to insure good +crystals; if cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of +crystals. This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far sells +well; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head +scurfy; indeed, the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in +flakes after it has been used a week or two. + +CASTOR OIL POMATUM. + +Tubereuse pomatum, 1 lb. +Castor oil, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + +BALSAM OF NEROLI. + +French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. +" jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1 drachm. + +MARROW CREAM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Palm oil, 1 oz. +Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. +" bergamot, 1/2 oz. +" lemon, 1-1/2 oz. + +MARROW POMATUM. + +Purified lard, 4 lbs. +" suet, 2 lbs. +Otto of lemon, 1 oz. +" bergamot, 1/2 oz. +" cloves, 3 drachms. + +Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula +for half an hour or more; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air +are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only increase the bulk of the +mixtures, but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation, rendering the +pomatum light and spongy; in this state it is obvious that it fills out +more profitably than otherwise. + +COMMON VIOLET POMATUM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +_Washed_ acacia pomatum, 6 oz. +" rose pomatum, 4 oz. + +Manipulate as for marrow pomatum. + +In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufacturing perfumers +used the washed French pomatums and the washed French oils for making +their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that +originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage +and by maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles have been +subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the +handkerchief. After the spirit has been on the pomatums, &c., it is +poured off; the residue is then called _washed_ pomatum, and still +retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases. + +For pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to substitute rose, +jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the acacia pomatum in the +above formulæ. + +POMADE DOUBLE, MILLEFLEURS. + +Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all made in +winter, with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-third best French oils; +in summer, equal parts. + +POMADE A LA HELIOTROPE. + +French rose pomade, 1 lb. +Vanilla oil, 1/2 lb. +Huile de jasmine, 4 oz. +" tubereuse, 2 oz. +" fleur d'orange, 2 oz. +Otto of almonds, 6 drops. +" cloves, 3 drops. + +HUILE ANTIQUE. (_A la Heliotrope_.) + +Same as the above, substituting rose oil for the pomade. + + +PHILOCOME. + +The name of this preparation, which is a compound of Greek and Latin, +signifying "a friend to the hair," was first introduced by the Parisian +perfumers; and a very good name it is, for Philocome is undoubtedly one +of the best unguents for the hair that is made. + +PHILOCOME. (_First quality_.) + +White wax, 10 oz. +Fresh rose-oil, 1 lb. +" acacia oil, 1/2 lb. +" jasmine oil, 1/2 lb. +" fleur d'orange oil, 1 lb. +" tubereuse oil, 1 lb. + +Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath, at the lowest possible +temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour out the Philocome +until it is nearly cool enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots +into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or at least of the +same temperature as the Philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the +material as it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture. + +PHILOCOME. (_Second quality_.) + +White wax, 5 oz. +Almond oil, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" lemon, 1/2 oz. +" lavender, 2 drachms. +" cloves, 1 drachm. + +FLUID PHILOCOME. + +Take 1 ounce of wax to 1 pound of oil. + +POMMADE HONGROISE. (_For the Moustache_.) + +Lead plaster, 1 lb. +Acacia huile, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 2 drachms. +" cloves, 1 drachm. +" almonds, 1 drachm. + +Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil; mix the +ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water. +Lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil: it is +best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists. + +HARD OR STICK POMATUMS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1 lb. +Jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. + +ANOTHER FORM,--_cheaper_. + +Suet, 1 lb. +Wax, 1/2 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" cassia, 1 drachm. + +The above recipes produce WHITE BATONS. BROWN and +BLACK BATONS are also in demand. They are made in the same way +as the above, but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such +colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's. + +BLACK AND BROWN COSMETIQUE. + +Such as is sold by RIMMEL, is prepared with a nicely-scented +soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber. The soap is melted, +and the coloring added while the soap is soft; when cold it is cut up in +oblong pieces. + +It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied with a small +brush and water. + + + + +SECTION XIII. + +HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY. + + +By way of personal adornment, few practices are of more ancient origin +than that of painting the face, dyeing the hair, and blackening the +eyebrows and eyelashes. + +It is a practice universal among the women of the higher and middle +classes in Egypt, and very common among those of the lower orders, to +blacken the edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a +black powder, which they term _kohhl_. The kohhl is applied with a small +probe of wood, ivory, or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. +This is moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped in the powder, +and drawn along the edges of the eyelids. It is thought to give a very +soft expression to the eye, the size of which, in appearance, it +enlarges; to which circumstances probably Jeremiah refers when he +writes, "Though thou rentest thy face (or thine eyes) with painting, in +vain shalt thou make thyself fair."--_Jer._ 4:30. See also +LANE'S _Modern Egyptians_, vol. i, p. 41, et seq. + +A singular custom is observable both among Moorish and Arab +females--that of ornamenting the face between the eyes with clusters of +bluish spots or other small devices, and which, being stained, become +permanent. The chin is also spotted in a similar manner, and a narrow +blue line extends from the point of it, and is continued down the +throat. The eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and extremities of +the eyelids, are colored black. The soles, and sometimes other parts of +the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, +are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna +(_Lawsonia inermis_), the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle, +and is dried for the purposes above mentioned. The back of the hand is +also often colored and ornamented in this way with different devices. On +holidays they paint their cheeks of a red brick color, a narrow red line +being also drawn down the temples. + +In Greece, "for coloring the lashes and sockets of the eye they throw +incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire, intercept the smoke which +ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, +sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and closing one of her eyes, +took the two lashes between the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, +pulled them forward, and then, thrusting in at the external corner a +sort of bodkin or probe which had been immersed in the soot, and +withdrawing it, the particles previously adhering to the probe remained +within the eyelashes."--CHANDLER'S _Travels in Greece._ + +Dr. Shaw states that among other curiosities that were taken out of the +tombs at Sahara relating to Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common +reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of this +powder. + +In England the same practice is adopted by many persons that have gray +hair; but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder, +it is employed as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body, +such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous +article. + +TURKISH HAIR DYE. + +In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly Armenians, who +devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics, and obtain large sums +of money from those desirous of learning this art. Amongst these +cosmetics is a black dye for the hair, which, according to Landerer, is +prepared in the following manner:-- + +Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste, which +is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve, upon +which the residue is triturated with water into a paste, and heated +again to dryness. At the same time a metallic mixture, which is brought +from Egypt to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in +Turkish _Rastiko-petra_, or _Rastik-Yuzi_, is employed for this purpose. +This metal, which looks like dross, is by some Armenians intentionally +fused, and consists of iron and copper. It obtains its name from its use +for the coloration of the hair, and particularly the eyebrows--for +_rastik_ means eyebrows, and _yuzi_ stone. The fine powder of this metal +is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a +paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it acquires the +blackening property. In some cases this mass is mixed with, the powder +of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes, and +called _harsi_, that is, pleasant odor; and of these the principal +ingredient is ambergris. To blacken the hair a little of this dye is +triturated in the hand or between the fingers, with which the hair or +beard is well rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully +black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are +met with in the East among the Turks who use this black dye. Another and +important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein, that the +hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black, when it has been +once dyed with this substance. That the coloring properties of this dye +are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found by +treating the mass with water, may be with certainty assumed. + +LITHARGE HAIR DYE. + +Powdered litharge, 2 lbs. +Quicklime, 1/2 lb. +Calcined magnesia, 1/2 lb. + +Slake the lime, using as little water as possible to make it +disintegrate, then mix the whole by a sieve. + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Slaked lime, 3 lbs. +White lead in powder, 2 lbs. +Litharge, 1 lb. + +Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork. + +_Directions_ to be sold with the above.--"Mix the powder with enough +water to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush; +completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light +brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight +hours; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act unless it is moist, +it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or +other waterproof cap. + +"After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the +head with plain water; when dry, the hair must be oiled." + +SIMPLE SILVER DYE. (_Otherwise "Vegetable Dye._") + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by +washing it with soda or pearlash and water. The hair must be quite dry +prior to applying the dye, which is best laid on with an old +tooth-brush. This dye does not "strike" for several hours. It needs +scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by +exposing the hair to sunshine and air. + +HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Brown._) + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. +Rose-water, 9 oz. " +_The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. +" Water, 8 oz. " + +HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Black._) + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. +Water, 6 oz. " +_The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. + " Water, 6 oz. " + +The mordant is to be applied to the hair first; when dry, the silver +solution. + +Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made, or at least, +well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead of the mordant +acting to make to make the hair black, it will tend to impart a _yellow_ +hue. When the mordant is good, it has a very disagreeable odor, and +although this is the quickest and best dye, its unpleasant smell has +given rise to the + +INODOROUS DYE. + +_Blue bottles._--Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the +above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes +cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to add +ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the +oxide of silver being redissolved. + +_White bottles_.--Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three +ounces of powdered gall-nuts; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms +the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like +the sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one. + +FRENCH BROWN DYE. + +_Blue Bottles_.--Saturated solution of sulphate of copper; to this add +ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as +with the silver in the above), producing the azure liquid. + +_White Bottles_.--_Mordant_.--Saturated solution of prussiate of +potass. + +Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in the same +manner as wool. + +There are in the market several other hair dyes, but all of them are but +modifications of the above, possessing no marked advantage. + +LEAD DYE. + +Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, may be thus +prepared:--Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassæ as much +freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the +resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water. Care must +be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it. + +QUICK DEPILATORY OR RUSMA. (_For removing hair._) + +As the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper +lip, upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to +beauty, those who are troubled with such physical indications of good +health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory +for removing it. + +This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from +the East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages. + +Best lime slaked, 3 lb. +Orpiment, in powder, 1/2 lbs. + +Mix the material by means of a drum sieve; preserve the same for sale +in well-corked or stoppered bottles. + +_Directions_ to be sold with the above. Mix the depilatory powder with +enough water to render it of a creamy consistency; lay it upon the hair +for about five minutes, or until its caustic action upon the skin +renders it necessary to be removed; a similar process to shaving is then +to be gone through, but instead of using a razor, operate with an ivory +or bone paper-knife; then wash the part with plenty of water, and apply +a little cold cream. + +The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated +cannot be given, because there is a physical difference in the nature of +hair. "Raven tresses" require more time than "flaxen locks;" the +sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered. A small feather is +a very good test for its action. + +A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding that I have only +given one formula for depilatory. The receipts might easily have been +increased in number, but not in quality. The use of arsenical compounds +is objectionable, but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of +the compounds. A few compilers of "Receipt Books," "Supplements to +Pharmacopoeias," and others, add to the lime "charcoal powder," +"carbonate of potass," "starch," &c.; but what action have these +materials--chemically--upon hair? The simplest depilatory is moistened +quicklime, but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above; +it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom time is no +object. + + + + +SECTION XIV. + +ABSORBENT POWDERS. + + +A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent +powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the +skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in +advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can +be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal +adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights +of such powders are used in this country annually. They are principally +composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various +nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc--of Haüy, steatite +(soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. The +most popular is what is termed + +VIOLET POWDER. + +Wheat starch, 12 lbs. +Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. +Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. +" bergamot, 3/4 oz. +" cloves, 2 drachms. + +ROSE FACE POWDER. + +Wheat starch, 7 lbs. +Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm. +Otto of rose, 2 drachms. +" santal, 2 " + +PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER + +Is pure wheat starch. + +FACE POWDER. + +Starch, 1 lb. +Oxide of Bismuth, 4 oz. + +PERLE POWDER. + +French chalk, 1 lb. +Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz. +Oxide of zinc, 1 oz. + +BLANC DE PERLE + +Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder. + +FRENCH BLANC + +Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve. + +This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor +from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere. + +LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE). + +The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely +necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is +incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to +subdue it. + +Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than +half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:-- + +Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint. +Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz. + +Mixed by long trituration. + +CALCINED TALC + +Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various +names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind. + +ROUGE AND RED PAINTS. + +These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by +private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the +complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that +termed + +BLOOM OF ROSES. + +Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz. +Finest carmine, 1/4 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. +Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz. + +Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow +them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then +add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet +situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine +will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for +sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; +nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less +sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration. + +Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for +commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of +Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without +doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal +operative in the establishment is an old Englishman. + +"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on +the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are +engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being +costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently +made."--DR. URE. + +In the _Encyclopédie Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes +for preparing carmine; the number of formulæ will convince the most +superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld. + +Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of +manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete +success. + +Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; +but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them. + +TOILET ROUGES. + +Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc +powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two +ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These +rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the +latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum +tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some +instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick +paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. +This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is +known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has +been imported into this country for many years. + +When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton +wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful +rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from +the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower +(_Carthamus tinctorius_); from this plant also is made + +PINK SAUCERS. + +The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is +removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a +weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated +into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution. + +Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the +same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as +Crépon rouge. + + + + +SECTION XV. + +TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES. + + +TOOTH powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the +teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, +as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of +the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the +act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most +useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful +and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss +of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the +swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect +resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, +and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the +gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the +action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious, +if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder +sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon +the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, +will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in +such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, +spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by +adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A +tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish +these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend +such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard +and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble +by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there +to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles +as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, +and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the +following formula:-- + +MIALHE'S TOOTH POWDER. + +Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen +parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much +as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition. + +His directions for the preparation of this tooth powder, are, to rub +well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, +previously powdered and sifted; and lastly, the essential oils are to be +carefully mixed with the powdered substances. Experience has convinced +him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of +which, will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state. +For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of +the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation:-- + +MIALHE'S DENTIFRICE. + +Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany +root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture +of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; +essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part. + +The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for +seven or eight days; and after filtration, the other articles are to be +added. A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four +spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the mouth, after the use of +the tooth powder. + +CAMPHORATED CHALK. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powdered orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Powdered camphor, 1/4 lb. + +Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little +spirit, then sift the whole well together. On account of the volatility +of camphor, the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in +boxes lined with tinfoil. + +QUININE TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Starch Powder, 1/2 lb. +Orris powder, 1/2 lb. +Sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm. + +After sifting, it is ready for sale. + +PREPARED CHARCOAL. + +Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs. +Prepared chalk, 1 lb. +Orris-root, 1 lb. +Catechu, 1/2 lb. +Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. +Myrrh, 1/4 lb. + +Sift. + +PERUVIAN BARK POWDER. + +Peruvian bark in powder, 1/2 lb. +Bole Ammoniac, 1 lb. +Orris powder, 1 lb. +Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. +Powdered myrrh, 1/2 lb. +Precipitated chalk, 1/2 lb. +Otto of cloves, 3/4 oz. + +HOMOEOPATHIC CHALK. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powder orris, 1 oz. +" starch, 1 oz. + +CUTTLE FISH POWDER. + +Powdered cuttle-fish, 1/2 lb. +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powder orris, 1/2 lb. +Otto of lemons, 1 oz. +" neroli, 1/2 drachm. + +BORAX AND MYRRH TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Borax powder, 1/2 lb. +Myrrh powder, 1/4 lb. +Orris, 1/4 lb. + +FARINA PIESSE'S POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 2 lbs. +Orris-root, 2 lbs. +Rose pink, 1 drachm. +Very fine powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. +" lemons, 1/4 oz. +" bergamot, 1/4 oz. +" orange-peel, 1/4 oz. +" rosemary, 1 drachm. + +ROSE TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Orris, 1/2 lb. +Rose pink, 2 drachms. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. +" santal, 1/4 drachm. + +OPIATE TOOTH PASTE. + +Honey, 1/2 lb. +Chalk, 1/2 lb. +Orris, 1/2 lb. +Rose Pink, 2 drachms. +Otto of cloves, } +" nutmeg, } each, 1/2 drachm. +" rose, } +Simple syrup, enough to form a paste. + + +MOUTH WASHES. + +VIOLET MOUTH WASH. + +Tincture of orris, 1/2 pint. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. +Spirit, 1/2 pint. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +EAU BOTOT. + +Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. +" myrrh, 1/4 pint. +" rhatany, 1/4 pint. +Otto of peppermint, 5 drops. + +All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at least with +pale unsweetened brandy. + +BOTANIC STYPTIC. + +Rectified spirit, 1 quart. +Rhatany root, } +Gum myrrh, } of each, 2 oz. +Whole cloves, } + +Macerate for fourteen days, and strain. + +TINCTURE OF MYRRH AND BORAX. + +Spirits of wine, 1 quart. +Borax, } +Honey, } of each, 1 oz. +Gum myrrh, 1 oz. +Red sanders wood, 1 oz. + +Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually add +the spirit, which should not be stronger than .920, _i.e._ proof spirit, +the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days. + +TINCTURE OF MYRRH WITH EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. +Gum myrrh, 1 oz. + +Macerate for fourteen days, and filter. + +CAMPHORATED EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. +Camphor, 5 oz. + + + + +SECTION XVI. + +HAIR WASHES. + + +ROSEMARY WATER. + +Rosemary free from stalk, 10 lbs. +Water, 12 gallons. + +Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture. + +ROSEMARY HAIR WASH. + +Rosemary water, 1 gallon. +Rectified spirit, 1/2 pint. +Pearlash, 1 oz. + +Tinted with brown coloring. + +ATHENIAN WATER. + +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Alcohol, 1 pint. +Sassafras wood, 1/4 lb. +Pearlash, 1 oz. + +Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel; then, when cold, add +the pearlash and spirit. + +VEGETABLE OR BOTANIC EXTRACT. + +Rose-water, } +Rectified spirits, } of each, 2 quarts. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, } +" jasmin, } +" acacia, } of each, 1/4 pint. +" rose, } +" tubereuse, } +Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + +This is a very beautifully-scented hair wash. It retails at a price +commensurate with its cost. + +ASTRINGENT EXTRACT OF ROSES AND ROSEMARY. + +Rosemary water, 2 quarts. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. +Rectified spirit, 1-1/2 pint. +Extract of vanilla, 1 quart. +Magnesia to clear it, 2 oz. + +Filter through paper. + +SAPONACEOUS WASH. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Extract of rondeletia, 1/2 pint. +Transparent soap, 1/2 oz. +Hay saffron, 1/2 drachm. + +Shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the +rose-water; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the +spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After +standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling. By transmitted +light it is transparent, but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly +and singular wavy appearance when shaken. A similar preparation is +called Egg Julep. + +BANDOLINES. + +Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any +particular form. Some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum +containing wax, made up into rolls, called thence _Baton Fixeteur._ The +little "feathers" of hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by +the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth. For their formula, see +p. 224, 225. + +The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made +either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also +by boiling quince-seed with water. Perfumers, however, chiefly make +bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exudes from a shrub of that name +which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey. + +ROSE BANDOLINE. + +Gum tragacanth, 6 oz. +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Otto of roses, 1/2 oz. + +Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a +thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After +about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a +coarse clean linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, and +passed through a linen cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of +consistency; when this is the case, the otto of rose is to be thoroughly +incorporated. The cheap bandoline is made without the otto; for colored +bandoline, it is to be tinted with ammoniacal solution of carmine, i.e. +_Bloom of Roses_. See p. 236. + +ALMOND BANDOLINE + +Is made precisely as the above, scenting with a quarter of an ounce of +otto of almonds in place of the roses. + + "Nor the sweet smell + Of different flowers in odor and in hue + Can make me any longer story tell." + + Shakspeare. + +[Illustration] + + + + +APPENDIX. + + * * * * * + +MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE. + + +Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by +directly saponifying oil with the oxide of lead, or, on the other, from +the "waste liquor" of soap manufacturers. To obtain glycerine by means +of the first of these methods is the reverse of simple, and at the same +time somewhat expensive; and by means of the second process, the +difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the waste liquor +renders it next to impossible to procure a perfectly pure result. To +meet both these difficulties, and to meet the steadily increasing demand +for glycerine, Dr. Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, +which, he asserts, he has found, by experience, to combine the desirable +advantages of economy as regards time, trouble, and expense. One hundred +pounds of oil, tallow, lard, or stearin are to be placed in a clean +iron-bound barrel, and melted by the direct application of a current of +steam. Whilst still fluid and warm, add to it fifteen pounds of lime, +previously slaked, and made into a milky mixture with two and a half +gallons of water; then cover the vessel, and continue the steaming for +several hours, or until the saponification shall be completed. This may +be known when a sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright +surface on being scraped with the finger-nail, and at the same time, +breaks with a crackling noise. By this process the fat or oil is +decomposed, its acids uniting with the lime to form insoluble lime-soap, +while the eliminated glycerine remains in solution in the water along +with the excess of the lime. After it has been sufficiently boiled, it +is allowed to cool and to settle, and it is then to be strained. + +The strained liquid contains only the glycerine and excess of lime, and +requires to be carefully concentrated by heated steam. During +evaporation, a portion of the lime is deposited, on account of its +lesser solubility in hot than in cold water. The residue is removed by +treating the evaporated liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, +boiling by heated steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that +may have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting or +straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the precipitated +carbonate of lime, and evaporating still further, as before, if +necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water. As nothing fixed or +injurious is employed in this process, glycerine, prepared in this +manner, may be depended upon for its almost absolute purity. + +M. Jahn's process is as follows:-- + +Take of finely-powdered litharge five pounds, and olive oil nine pounds. +Boil them together over a gentle fire, constantly stirring, with the +addition occasionally of a small quantity of warm water, until the +compound has the consistence of plaster. Jahn boils this plaster for +half an hour with an equal weight of water, keeping it at the same time +constantly stirred. When cold, he pours off the supernatant fluid, and +repeats the boiling three times at least with a fresh portion of water. +The sweet fluids which result are mixed, and evaporated to six pounds, +and sulphuretted hydrogen conducted through them as long as sulphuret +of lead is precipitated. The liquid filtered from the sulphuret of lead +is to be reduced to a thin syrupy consistence by evaporation. To remove +the brown coloring matter, it must be treated with purified animal +charcoal. However, this agent does not prevent the glycerine becoming +slightly colored upon further evaporation. It possesses also still a +slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which may be removed by diluting +it with water, and by digestion with animal charcoal, and some fresh +burnt-wood charcoal. After filtration, this liquid must be evaporated +until it has acquired a specific gravity of 1.21, when it will be found +to be free from smell, and of a pale yellow color. For the preparation +of glycerine, distilled water is necessary, to prevent it being +contaminated with the impurities of common water. Jahn obtained, by this +method, from the above quantity of lead plaster, upwards of seven ounces +of glycerine.--_Archives der Pharmacie_. + + * * * * * + +TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL OILS. + + +J.J. Bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash. When to an +ethereal oil, contaminated with alcohol, dry acetate of potash is added, +this salt dissolves in the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the +volatile oil separates. If the oil be free from alcohol, this salt +remains dry therein. + +Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, has suggested the following +method of applying it as the best:--In a dry test-tube, about half an +inch in diameter, and five or six inches long, put no more than eight +grains of powdered dry acetate of potash; then fill the tube two-thirds +full with the essential oil to be examined. The contents of the tube +must be well stirred with a glass rod, taking care not to allow the salt +to rise above the oil; afterwards set aside for a short time. If the +salt be found at the bottom of the tube dry, it is evident that the oil +contains no spirit. Oftentimes, instead of the dry salt, beneath the oil +is found a clear syrupy fluid, which is a solution of the salt in the +spirit, with which the oil was mixed. When the oil contains only a +little spirit, a small portion of the solid salt will be found under the +syrupy solution. Many essential oils frequently contain a trace of +water, which does not materially interfere with this test, because, +although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby, it still retains +its pulverent form. + +A still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a +water-bath. All the essential oils which have a higher boiling-point +than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the +receiver with only a trace of the oil, where the alcohol may be +recognized by the smell and taste. Should, however, a doubt exist, add +to the distillate a little acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid, +and heat the mixture in a test-tube to the boiling-point, when the +characteristic odor of acetic ether will be manifest, if any alcohol be +present. + + * * * * * + +DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS. + + +It is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from +the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air by the first not +being convertible into elaidic acid, consequently it does not become +solid. Professor Wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for +the formation of elaidin, which is applicable for the purpose of +detecting the adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils. He +produces nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with +nitric acid. The vapor of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube +into water, upon which the oil to be tested is placed. If the oil of +almonds or olives contains only a small quantity of poppy oil when thus +treated, it is entirely converted into crystallized elaidin, whilst the +poppy oil swims on the top in drops. + + * * * * * + +COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE OILS. + +BY G.E. SACHSSE. + + +It is well known that most ethereal oils are colorless; however, there +are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some +yellow. Up to the present time the question has not been decided, +whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a color, +or whether their color is not due to the presence of some coloring +matter which can be removed. It is most probable that their color arises +from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils +can at first, by careful distillation, be obtained colorless, whilst +later the colored portion passes over. Subsequent appearances lead to +the solution of the question, and are certain evidence that ethereal +oils, when they are colored, owe their color to peculiar substances +which, by certain conditions, may be communicated from one oil to +another. When a mixture of oils of wormwood, lemons, and cloves is +subjected to distillation, the previously green-colored oil of wormwood +passes over, at the commencement, colorless, while, towards the end of +the distillation, after the receiver has been frequently charged, the +oil of cloves distils over in very dense drops of a dark green color. It +therefore appears that the green coloring matter of the oil of wormwood +has been transferred to the oil of cloves.--_Zeitschrift für Pharmacie._ + + * * * * * + +ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF CINNAMON. + +BY A. STRECKER. + + +Some years since, Strecker has shown that styrone, which is obtained +when styracine is treated with potash, is the alcohol of cinnamic acid. +Wolff has converted this alcohol by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid. +The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which +ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of +cinnamic acid, that is, oil of cinnamon. It is only necessary to moisten +platinum black with styrone, and let it remain in the air some days, +when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound +may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the +addition of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is +afterwards procured pure. These crystals also dissolve in nitric acid, +and then form after a few moments crystals of the nitrate of the hyduret +of cinnamyle. The conversion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle by +the action of the platinum black is shown by the following equation: + + C_{18}H_{10}O_{2} + 2 O = C_{18}H_{8}O_{2} + 2 HO.--_Comptes Rendus._ + + * * * * * + +DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE IN LAVENDER OIL + +BY DR. J. GASTELL. + + +There are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce; one, which is +very dear, and is obtained from the flowers of the _Lavandula vera_; the +other is much cheaper, and is prepared from the flowers of the +_Lavandula spica_. The latter is generally termed oil of spike. In the +south of France, whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the +_Lavandula vera_ or _Lavandula spica_, it is named oil of lavender. + +By the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk and the leaves, +a small quantity of oil is obtained, which is rich in camphor, and is +there called oil of spike. Pure oil of lavender should have a specific +gravity from .876 to .880, and be completely soluble in five parts of +alcohol of a specific gravity of .894. A greater specific gravity shows +that it is mixed with oil of spike; and a less solubility, that it +contains oil of turpentine. + + * * * * * + +DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE + +BY M. LEGUAY. + + +There are three sorts of orange-flower waters found in commerce. The +first is distilled from the flowers; the second is made with distilled +water and neroli; and the third is distilled from the leaves, the stems, +and the young unripe fruit of the orange tree. The first may be easily +distinguished by the addition of a few drops of sulphuric acid to some +of the water in a tube; a fine rose color is almost immediately +produced. The second also gives the same color when it is freshly +prepared; but after a certain time, two or three months at the farthest, +this color is no longer produced, and the aroma disappears completely. +The third is not discolored by the addition of the sulphuric acid; it +has scarcely any odor, and that rather an odor of the lemon plant than +of orange-flowers.--_Bulletin de la Société Pharmaceutique d'Indre et +Loire._ + + * * * * * + +A FORMULA FOR CONCENTRATED ELDER-FLOWER WATER. + + +Krembs recommends the following process for making a concentrated +elder-flower water, from which he states the ordinary water can be +extemporaneously prepared, of excellent quality, and of uniform +strength:--2 lbs. of the flowers are to be distilled with water until +that which passes into the receiver has lost nearly all perfume. This +will generally happen when from 15 to 18 pounds have passed over. To the +distillate, 2 lbs. of alcohol are to be added, and the mixture distilled +until about 5 lbs. are collected. This liquor contains all the odor of +the flowers. To make the ordinary water, 2 ounces of the concentrated +water are to be added to 10 ounces of distilled water.--_Buchner's +Report._ + + * * * * * + +PRACTICAL REMARKS ON SPIRIT OF WINE. + +BY THOMAS ARNALL. + + +The strength of spirit of wine is, by law, regulated by proof spirit +(sp. gr. .920) as a standard; and accordingly as it is either stronger +or weaker than the above, it is called so much per cent. above or below +proof. The term _per cent._ is used in this instance in a rather +peculiar sense. Thus, spirit of wine at 56 per cent. overproof, +signifies that 100 gallons of it are equal to 156 gallons of proof +spirit; while a spirit at 20 per cent. underproof, signifies that 100 +gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. The rectified spirit of the +Pharmacopoeia is 56 per cent. overproof, and may be reduced to proof +by strictly adhering to the directions there given, viz., to mix five +measures with three of water. The result, however, will not be eight +measures of proof spirit; in consequence of the _contraction_ which +ensues, there will be a deficiency of about [Symbol: oz.]iv in each +gallon. This must be borne in mind in preparing tinctures. + +During a long series of experiments on the preparation of ethers, it +appeared a desideratum to find a ready method of ascertaining how much +spirit of any density would be equal to one chemical equivalent of +absolute alcohol. By a modification of a rule employed by the Excise, +this question may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows:-- + +To reduce from any given strength to any required strength, _add_ the +_overproof_ per centage _to_ 100, or _subtract_ the _underproof_ per +centage _from_ 100. Multiply the result by the quantity of spirit, and +divide the product by the number obtained by _adding_ the _required_ per +centage overproof, or _subtracting_ the _required_ per centage +underproof, to or from 100, as the case may be. The result will give the +measure of the spirit at the strength required. + +Thus, suppose you wished to reduce 10 gallons of spirit, at 54 +overproof, down to proof, add 54 to 100 = 154; multiply by the quantity, +10 gallons (154 × 10) = 1540. The required strength being proof, of +course there is nothing either to add to or take from 100; therefore, +1540 divided by 100 = 15.4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons +must be made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by the addition +of water. + +To ascertain what quantity of spirit of any given strength will contain +one equivalent of absolute alcohol. Add the overproof per centage of the +given spirit to 100, as before; and with the number thus obtained divide +4062.183. The result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four +equivalents (46 × 4). + +_Example._--How much spirit at 54 per cent. overproof is equal to 1 +equivalent of absolute alcohol? + +Here, + +54 + 100 = 154 and 4062.183 = 26.3778 galls., or 26 galls. 3 pts. + -------- + 154 + +which, divided by 4, gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 15 oz. + +Suppose the spirit to be 60 overproof,-- + + 4062.183 {one-fourth of which is equal +then ---------- = 25.388 gallons, {to 6 gallons, 2 pints, + (100 + 60) {15-1/2 oz. + +This rule is founded on the following data. As a gallon of water weighs +10 lbs., it is obvious that the specific gravity of any liquid +multiplied by 10 will give the weight of one gallon. The specific +gravity of absolute alcohol is 0.793811; hence, the weight of one gallon +will be 7.93811 lbs., and its strength is estimated at 75.25 overproof. + +4 equivalents of alcohol = 46 × 4 = 184, + +and + +23.17936 gallons × 7.93811 lbs. per gallon, also = 184.0003094. + +Hence it appears that 23.17936 gallons of absolute alcohol are equal to +4 equivalents. By adding the overproof per centage (75.25) to 100, and +multiplying by the quantity (23.17936 gallons) we get the constant +number 4062.183. + +The rule might have been calculated so as to show _at once_ the +equivalent, without dividing by 4; but it would have required several +more places of decimals; it will give the required quantity to a +fraction of a fluid drachm. + + * * * * * + +PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS BY FILTRATION. + +BY MR. W. SCHAEFFER. + + +Instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the +purification of spirits, Mr. Schaeffer proposes the use of a filter. In +a suitable vessel, the form of which is not material, a filtering bed is +constructed in the following manner:--On a false perforated bottom, +covered with woollen or other fabric, a layer of about six inches of +well-washed and very clean river sand is placed; next about twelve +inches of granular charcoal, preferring that made from birch; on the +charcoal is placed a layer of about one inch of wheat, boiled to such an +extent as to cause it to swell as large as possible, and so that it will +readily crush between the fingers. Above this is laid about ten inches +of charcoal, then about one inch of broken oyster shells, and then about +two inches more of charcoal, over which is placed a layer of woollen or +other fabric, and over it a perforated partition, on to which the spirit +to be filtered is poured; the filter is kept covered, and in order that +the spirit may flow freely into the compartment of the filter below the +filtering materials, a tube connects such lower compartment with the +upper compartment of the filter, so that the air may pass freely +between the lower and upper compartments of the filter. On each, of the +several strata above described, it is desirable to place a layer of +filtering paper. + +The charcoal suitable for the above purpose is not such as is obtained +in the ordinary mode of preparation. It is placed in a retort or oven, +and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed off, and the +flame become red. The charcoal is then cooled in water, in which +carbonate of potash has previously been dissolved, in the proportion of +two ounces of carbonate to fifty gallons of water. The charcoal being +deprived of the water is then reduced to a granular state, in which +condition it is ready for use. + + * * * * * + +ON ESSENTIAL OIL OR OTTO OF LEMONS. + +BY JOHN S. COBB. + +(_Read before the Chemical Discussion Society._) + + +I have recently made some experiments with oil of lemons, of which the +following is a short account:-- + +Being constantly annoyed by the deposit and alteration in my essence of +lemons, I have tried various methods of remedying the inconvenience. + +I first tried redistilling it, but besides the loss consequent on +distilling small quantities, the flavor is thereby impaired. As the oil +became brighter when heated, I anticipated that all its precipitable +matter would be thrown down at a low temperature, and I applied a +freezing mixture, keeping the oil at zero for some hours. No such +change, however, took place. + +The plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best which I had +arrived at, was to shake up the oil with a little boiling water, and to +leave the water in the bottle; a mucilaginous preparation forms on the +top of the water, and acquires a certain tenacity, so that the oil may +be poured off to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit. +Perhaps cold water would answer equally well, were it carefully agitated +with the oil and allowed some time to settle. A consideration of its +origin and constitution, indeed, strengthens this opinion; for although +lemon otto is obtained both by distillation and expression, that which +is usually found in commerce is prepared by removing the "flavedo" of +lemons with a rasp, and afterwards expressing it in a hair sack, +allowing the filtrate to stand, that it may deposit some of its +impurities, decanting and filtering. Thus obtained it still contains a +certain amount of mucilaginous matter, which undergoes spontaneous +decomposition, and thus (acting, in short, as a ferment) accelerates a +similar change in the oil itself. If this view of its decomposition be a +correct one, we evidently, in removing this matter by means of the +water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain the same +result as we should by distillation, without its waste or deterioration +in flavor. + +I am, however, aware that some consider the deposit to be modified +resin.[H] Some curious experiments of Saussure have shown that volatile +oils absorb oxygen immediately they have been drawn from the plant, and +are partially converted into a resin, which remains dissolved in the +remainder of the essence. + +He remarked that this property of absorbing oxygen gradually increases, +until a maximum is attained, and again diminishes after a certain lapse +of time. In the oil of lavender this maximum remained only seven days, +during each of which it absorbed seven times its volume of oxygen. In +the oil of lemons the maximum was not attained until at the end of a +month; it then lasted twenty-six days; during each of which it absorbed +twice its volume of oxygen. The oil of turpentine did not attain the +maximum for five months, it then remained for one month, during which +time it absorbed daily its own volume of oxygen. + +It is the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen, and remaining +dissolved in the essence, which destroys its original flavor. The oil of +lemons presents a very great analogy with that of oil of turpentine, so +far as regards its transformations, and its power of rotating a ray of +polarized light. Authorities differ as regards this latter property. +Pereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained by distillation with +water, from American turpentine, has a molecular power of right-handed +rotation, while the French oil of turpentine had a left-handed rotation. +Oil of lemons rotates a ray of light to the right, but in France a +distilled oil of lemons, sold as scouring drops for removing spots of +grease, possesses quite the opposite power of rotation, and has lost all +the original peculiar flavor of the oil. Oil of lemons combines with +hydrochloric acid to form an artificial camphor, just in the same manner +as does oil of turpentine, but its atom is only one half that of the oil +of turpentine. The artificial camphor of oil of lemons is represented by +the formula, C_{10}H_{8}HCl; the artificial camphor of oil of turpentine +by C_{20}H_{16}HCl. + +According to M. Biot, the camphor formed by the oil of lemons does not +exercise any action on polarized light, whilst the oil of lemons itself +rotates a ray to the right. The camphor from oil of turpentine, on the +contrary, does exercise on the polarized ray the same power as the oil +possessed while in its isolated state, of rotating to the left. These +molecular properties establish an essential difference between the oils +of turpentine and lemons, and may serve to detect adulteration and +fraud. It is also a curious fact, that from the decomposition of these +artificial camphors by lime, volatile oils may be obtained by +distillation, isomeric with the original oils from which the camphors +were formed; but in neither case has the new product any action on +polarized light. + +In conclusion, I would recommend that this oil, as well as all other +essential oils, be kept in a cool, dark place, where no very great +changes of temperature occur. + + * * * * * + +BENZOIC ACID, AND TESTS FOR ITS PURITY. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +Dr. Mohr's process for obtaining benzoic acid, which is adopted by the +Prussian Pharmacopoeia, unquestionably has the reputation of being the +best. According to this process, coarsely-powdered gum benzoin is to be +strewed on the flat bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of +nine inches, and a height of about two inches. On the surface of the pot +is spread a piece of filtering paper, which is fastened to its rim by +starch paste. A cylinder of very thick paper is attached by means of a +string to the top of the iron pot. Heat is then applied by placing the +pot on a plate covered with sand, over the mouth of a furnace. It must +remain exposed to a gentle fire from four to six hours. Mohr usually +obtains about an ounce and a half of benzoic acid from twelve ounces of +gum benzoin by the first sublimation. As the gum is not exhausted by the +first operation, it may be bruised when cold and again submitted to the +action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid will sublime from +it. This acid thus obtained, is not perfectly pure and white, and Mohr +states that it is a question, in a medicinal and perfumery point of +view, whether it is so valuable when perfectly pure, as when it contains +a small portion of a fragrant volatile oil, which rises with it from the +gum in the process of sublimation. + +The London Pharmacopoeia directs that it shall be prepared by +sublimation, and does not prescribe that it shall be free from this oil, +to which it principally owes its agreeable odor. + +By the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid is not +volatilized. What remains in the resin may be separated by boiling it +with caustic lime, and precipitating the acid from the resulting +benzoate of lime with hydrochloric acid. Benzoic acid can be obtained +also in the wet way, and the resin yields a greater product in this +process than in the former; yet it has a less perfumery value, because +it is free from the volatile oil which, as above stated, gives it its +peculiar odor. The wet method devised by Scheele is as follows:--Make +one ounce of freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces +of hot water. To the milk of lime, four ounces of powdered benzoin and +thirty ounces of water are to be added, and the mixture boiled for half +an hour, and stirred during this operation, and afterwards strained +through linen. The residue must be a second time boiled with twenty +ounces of water and strained, and a third time with ten ounces; the +fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to one-fourth of their +volume, and sufficient hydrochloric acid added to render them slightly +acid. When quite cold, the crystals are to be separated from the fluid +by means of a linen strainer, upon which they are to be washed with cold +water, and pressed, and then dissolved in hot distilled water, from +which the crystals separate on cooling. When hydrochloric acid is added +to a cold concentrated solution of the salts of benzoic acid, it is +precipitated as a white powder. If the solution of the salts of this +acid is too dilute and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid +will be separated. However, the weaker the solution is, and the more +slowly it is cooled, the larger will be the crystals of this acid. In +the preparation of this acid in the wet way, lime is to be preferred to +every other base, because it forms insoluble combinations with the +resinous constituents of the benzoin, and because it prevents the +gum-resin from conglomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an +excess of this base is but slightly soluble. + +Stoltze has recommended a method by which all the acid can be removed +from the benzoin:--The resin is to be dissolved in spirit, to which is +to be added a watery solution of carbonate of soda, decomposed +previously by alcohol. The spirit is to be removed by distillation, and +the remaining watery solution, from which the resin has been separated +by filtration, treated with dilute sulphuric acid, to precipitate the +benzoic acid. This method gives the greatest quantity of acid, but is +attended with a sacrifice of time and alcohol, which renders it in an +economical point of view inferior to the above process of Scheele. It +is so far valuable, that the total acid contents of the resin can be +determined by it. + +Dr. Gregory considers the following process for obtaining benzoic acid +the most productive. Dissolve benzoin in strong alcohol, by the aid of +heat, and add to the solution, whilst hot, hydrochloric acid, in +sufficient quantity to precipitate the resin. When the mixture is +distilled, the benzoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether. +Distillation must be continued as long as any ether passes over. Water +added towards the end of the operation will facilitate the expulsion of +the ether from the retort. When the ether ceases to pass over, the hot +water in the retort is filtered, which deposits benzoic acid on cooling. +The benzoic ether and all the distilled liquids are now treated with +caustic potash until the ether is decomposed, and the solution is heated +to boiling, and super-saturated with hydrochloric acid, which +afterwards, on cooling, deposits, in crystals, benzoic acid. + +Benzoic acid, as it exists in the resin, is the natural production of +the plant from which the resin is derived. It may also be produced +artificially. Abel found that when cumole (C_{18}H_{12}) was treated +with nitric acid, so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several +days, this hydro-carbon was converted into benzoic acid. Guckelberger +has, by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese and sulphuric +acid, obtained as one of the products benzoic acid. Albumen, fibrin, and +gelatin yielded similar results when treated as above. Wöhler has +detected benzoic acid in Canadian castor, along with salicin. It is also +formed by the oxidation of the volatile oil of bitter almonds. Benzoate +of potash results when chloride of benzoyle is treated with caustic +potash. Benzoic acid in the animal economy is converted into hippuric +acid, which may by the action of acids, be reconverted into benzoic +acid. + +Benzoic acid should be completely volatile, without leaving any ash or +being carbonized when heated. When dissolved in warm water, to which a +little nitric acid has been added, nitrate of silver and chloride of +barium should produce no precipitates. Oxalate of potash should give no +turbidity to an ammoniacal solution of this acid. When heated with an +excess of caustic potash it should evolve no smell of ammonia, +otherwise, it has been adulterated with sal ammoniac. In spirit, benzoic +acid is easily soluble, and requires 200 parts of cold and 20 parts of +boiling water to dissolve one part of it. + + * * * * * + +ON THE COLORING-MATTERS OF FLOWERS. + +BY FREMY AND CLOEZ. + + +Chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of the coloring +matters of flowers. Their investigation involves difficulties which +cannot be mistaken. The matters which color flowers are uncrystallized; +they frequently change by the action of the reagents employed for their +preparation; and, also, very brilliantly-colored flowers owe their color +to very small quantities of coloring matter. + +On the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several opinions have +been expressed. Some observers have assumed that flowers owe their color +to only two coloring matters, one of which is termed anthocyan, and the +other anthoxanthine. Others will find a relation between the green +coloring of leaves, the chlorophylle, and the coloring matters of +flowers. They support their opinion generally on the results of the +elementary analysis of those different bodies; but all chemists know +that chlorophylle has not yet been prepared in a pure condition. +Probably, it retains various quantities of fatty and albuminous bodies. +Further, the coloring matters of flowers are scarcely known, so that it +is impossible to establish relations supported by the necessarily +uncertain composition of impure bodies. + +Some time since the blue color of flowers was ascribed to the presence +of indigo; but Chevreul has shown, in a certain way, that the blue +substance of flowers is always reddened by acids; and that with indigo +it is quite different, which, as is known, retains its blue color even +when the strongest acids are allowed to act on it. + +It is thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have heretofore +only in a superficial manner been examined, and that it is important to +again undertake their complete examination, as these bodies are +interesting to the chemist, because they are employed as reagents in the +laboratory for the recognition of alkalies; and by an improved knowledge +of them the florist might find the way by which he could give to +cultivated flowers various colors. + +We have believed that before undertaking their elementary analysis, +methods must be carefully sought for which can be followed for the +obtainment of the coloring matters of flowers, and that it should be +proved whether these substances are to be considered as independent +bodies, or whether they proceed from one and the same matter, which is +changed in various ways by the juices of the plant. + +We now publish the results of our first investigations. + +_Blue Coloring Matter of Flowers (Cyanine)._--The blue coloring matter +of flowers we propose to call cyanine. To obtain this substance we treat +the petals of _Centauria cyanus_, _Viola odorata_, or _Iris +pseudacorus_, with boiling alcohol, by which the flowers are +decolorized; and the liquid acquires immediately a fine blue color. + +If the coloring matter is allowed to remain some time in contact with +alcohol, it is perceived that the blue of the liquid gradually +disappears, and soon a yellow brown coloration takes its place. The +coloring matter has in this case suffered an actual reduction by the +prolonged action of the alcohol, but it will again assume its original +color when the alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air. Nevertheless, +the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too long with the +coloring matter, because the alcoholic extract will not then again +assume its blue coloration by the action of oxygen. + +The residue remaining from the evaporation of the alcohol is treated +with water, which separates a fatty and resinous substance. The watery +solution which contains the coloring matter is then precipitated by +neutral acetate of lead. The precipitate, which possesses a beautiful +green color, can be washed with plenty of water, and then decomposed +with sulphuretted hydrogen; the coloring matter passes into the watery +solution, which is carefully evaporated in a water-bath; the residue is +again dissolved in absolute alcohol; and lastly, the alcoholic solution +is mixed with ether, which precipitates the cyanine in the form of blue +flocks. + +Cyanine is uncrystallizable, soluble in water and alcohol, insoluble in +ether; acids, and acid salts color it immediately red; by alkalies it +is, as known, colored green. Cyanine appears to behave as an acid, at +least it forms with lime, baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green +compounds insoluble in water. + +Bodies absorbing oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphorous acid, and +alcohols, decolorize it; under the influence of oxygen its color is +restored. + +We must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beautiful blue substance +from _Centauria cyanus_ by treatment with absolute alcohol. + +_Rose-red Coloring Matter._--We have employed alcohol to extract the +substance which colors rose-red certain dahlias, roses, poeonias, &c. +For the procuration of this coloring matter the method pursued is +exactly as that for the preparation of cyanine. + +By an attentive comparison of the properties of this coloring matter +with those of cyanine, we have found that the rose-red coloring matter +is the same as the blue, or at least results from a modification of the +same independent principle. It appears in the rose-red modification, +when the juice of the plant, with which it exists in contact, possesses +an acid reaction. We have always observed this acid reaction in the +juices of plants with red or rose-red coloration, while the blue juices +of plants have always exhibited an alkaline reaction. + +We have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored flowers which are +cultivated in the Paris Museum to the influence of alkalies, and have +seen that they first become blue and then green by their action. + +It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those of the +_Mallow_, and in particular those of the _Hibiscus Syriacus_, acquire by +fading a blue and then a green coloration, which change, as we have +found, depends on the decomposition of an organic nitrogenous substance, +which is found very frequently in the petals. This body generates as it +decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the flowers the blue or green +color. By action of weak acids, the petals can be restored to their +rose-red color. + +The alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also be +observed when the petals are very rapidly dried, for example, in +_vacuo_, by which it cannot be easily assumed that a nitrogenous body +has undergone decomposition to the evolution of ammonia. But, before all +things, it must be mentioned that in this case the modification of color +passes into violet, and never arrives at green; and, further, that it is +always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid, which we have +detected by a direct experiment. Petals which were before rose-red, and +have become violet by slight drying, evolve carbonic acid, and on that +account it may be assumed that the rose-red color is produced in the +petals by this carbonic acid, and that by its expulsion the petals +assume the blue color, by which the flowers with neutral juices are +characterized. + +We believe that we are able to speak with certainty that flowers with a +rose-red, violet, or blue color, owe their coloration to one and the +same substance, but which is modified in various ways by the influence +of the juices of plants. + +Scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened by an acid, but in +such cases this substance is mixed with a yellow coloring matter which +we will now describe. + +_Yellow Coloring Matter._--The simplest experiments show that no analogy +exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow and that of +which we have already spoken. The agents which generate so easily with +cyanine, the rose-red, violet, or green coloration, cannot in any case +impart these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers. + +By the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers, we have +ascertained that they owe their coloration to two substances, which +differ from one another in their properties, and appear not to be +derived from the same independent principle. One is completely insoluble +in water, which we have termed xanthine, a name which Runge has given +to a yellow matter from madder. As this name has not been accepted in +science, we have employed it to denote one of the coloring matters of +yellow flowers. The other substance is very soluble in water, and is by +us termed xantheine. + +_Xanthine, or the Yellow Coloring Matter insoluble in water._--We have +prepared this coloring matter from many yellow flowers, but chiefly from +_Helianthus annuus_. + +To obtain it we treat the flowers with boiling absolute alcohol, which +dissolves the coloring matter in the heat, and by cooling almost +completely allows it again to precipitate. The yellow deposit which is +obtained in this way, is not pure xanthine, as it contains a rather +considerable quantity of oil. To separate this oil we have recourse to a +moderate saponification; thus, we heat the yellow precipitate with a +small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the +xanthine, which even contains the xanthine dissolved. As the coloring +matter is soluble in the soap solution, we do not treat the mass with +water, but decompose it with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the +fatty acids resulting from the saponification. This precipitate we treat +with cold alcohol, which leaves behind the fatty acids, and dissolves +the xanthine. This substance is a fine yellow color, insoluble in water, +but soluble in alcohol and ether, which are thereby colored golden +yellow. It appears to be uncrystallizable, and possesses the general +properties of resins. + +Xanthine, in combination with cyanine, modified by the various juices of +plants, communicates in variable proportions orange-yellow, scarlet-red, +and red colors to flowers. + +_Xantheine, or the Coloring Matter soluble in water._--By the +preparation of the substance which colors yellow certain dahlias, it is +at once perceived that it has no analogy to xanthine. The latter is as +known insoluble in water, while the coloring matter under consideration +is readily soluble in water. + +To obtain the xanthine we treat the petals of yellow flowering dahlias +with alcohol, which quickly dissolves the yellow coloring matter, +besides the fat and resin. The solution is evaporated to dryness, and +the residue treated with water, whereby the fat and resin are separated. +The water is again evaporated to dryness, and the residue treated with +absolute alcohol. The resulting solution diluted with water is mixed +with neutral acetate of lead, which precipitates the coloring matters. +The lead precipitate is then decomposed with sulphuric acid, upon which +the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water is purified by +alcohol. + +Xantheine is soluble in water, alcohol, and ether, but crystallizes from +none of these solutions. Alkalies color it intensely brown. Its power of +coloration is considerable. It dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone, +which is without brilliancy. Acids again destroy the brown coloration +produced by alkalies. Xantheine combines with most metallic bases, and +forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble lakes. + +The facts here related agree with all which has been previously observed +regarding the coloring matters of flowers. It is known that blue flowers +can become red, and even white, where their coloring matter is +destroyed, but never yellow--and _vice versâ_. These three coloring +matters can generate the colors either alone or by admixture, which are +seen in flowers; but whether they are the only matters which color +flowers, we are at present unable to determine.--_Journal de +Pharmacie._ + + * * * * * + +IMPROVED PROCESS FOR BLEACHING BEES'-WAX AND THE FATTY ACIDS. + +BY MR. G.F. WILSON. + + +This improved process consists of two parts:--1st, the application of +highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters under treatment, by which +means the requisite heat for melting these substances is obtained, and +at the same time the atmosphere is thereby excluded; the heated steam so +applied in its passage off, carries with it the offensive smells given +off by the fatty matters, and being made to traverse a pipe or passage +up or along which gaseous chlorine is allowed to flow, a complete +disinfection of the offensive products is thereby effected. 2dly, the +treating of bees'-wax in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees'-wax, with +compounds of chlorine and oxygen, preferring to employ that disengaged +from chlorate of potash by treating it with sulphuric acid. For this +purpose, Mr. Wilson takes at the rate, say, of a ton of yellow +bees'-wax, and melts and boils it up with free steam for about half an +hour. It is then allowed to stand a short time, and is then decanted +into another vessel provided with a steam-pipe to emit free steam; about +20 lbs. of chlorate of potash is added, and the steam turned on; 80 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, diluted with a like weight of water, is then +gradually added. The matters are allowed to stand for a short time, and +are then decanted into another vessel, and again boiled up with free +steam, and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid. The +bees'-wax is then decanted into a receiver, and is ready for use. The +bees'-wax may, before undergoing these processes, be combined and boiled +up with a hard fatty acid, and then treated as above described. + + * * * * * + +CHEMICAL EXAMINATION OF NAPLES SOAP. + + +A. Faiszt has submitted this celebrated shaving soap to analysis. He +states that it is made by saponifying mutton fat with lime, and then +separating the fatty acids from the soap thus formed, by means of a +mineral acid. These fatty acids are afterwards combined with ordinary +caustic potash to produce the Naples soap. He found that 100 parts of +this soap contained + + Parts. +Fatty acids, 57.14 +Potash combined with the fatty acids, 10.39 +Sulphate of potash, chloride of potassium, + with a trace of carbonate of potash, 4.22 +Silica, &c., 0.46 +Water, 27.68 + ----- + 99.89 +_Gewerbeblatt aus Wurttemberg._ + + * * * * * + +MANUFACTURE OF SOAP. + + +The removal of the duty from soap, and the consequent emancipation of +this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the Excise, has given +a fresh impetus to the manufacture of this important article of daily +use, and enabled some processes to be practically carried out in +England, which, previous to the removal of the duty, could not be +adopted in this part of her Majesty's dominions. + +It will doubtless appear strange to those unacquainted with the +circumstances, that owing to the mode of levying the duty by +admeasurement, and not by actual weight, the maker of a particular kind +of soap was debarred the privilege of manufacturing in this country. +Fortunately for him, the manufacture of soap being free from all Excise +restrictions in Ireland, he was enabled to carry out his process in the +sister kingdom, whence it was exported to England, and admitted here on +payment of the Customs' duty, which was the same as the Excise duty on +its manufacture here. All this roundabout method of doing business is +now done away with, and no restriction now exists to mar the peace of +the soap manufacturer. + +Amongst various new processes lately introduced is that of Mr. H.C. +Jennings, which is practically carried out in the following manner:-- + +Combine 1000 lbs. of stearic or margaric acid, as free from elaine or +oleine as possible, or palmatine, or any vegetable or animal stearine or +margarine, at the temperature of 212° Fahr., with a solution of +bicarbonate of potash or soda, specific gravity 1500. Constantly stir or +mix until an intimate combination is obtained, and that the elements +will not part when tried upon glass or any other similar substance. When +the mass is cooled down to about 60° Fahr. add one pound per cent. of +liquor ammoniæ, specific gravity 880, and one pound per cent. of +strongest solution of caustic potash; these are to be added gradually, +and fully mixed or stirred until perfectly combined. Dissolve 15 to 18 +pounds per cent. of common resin of commerce, by boiling it with a +solution of subcarbonate of potash and common soda of commerce, in equal +parts, as much as will give the solution a specific gravity of about +1800, when boiling hot. Mix these perfectly with the above-mentioned +stearic or margaric acids, and carbonated alkali; then add a strong +solution of caustic potash or soda, until a perfect saponification is +produced. The dose of caustic alkali will much depend upon the purity of +the stearine or margarine employed. The separation is now effected by +using common salt, or sulphate of soda, &c., as is known and practised +by soap manufacturers. If the soap intended to be produced is to be +colorless, no resin must be employed, and a larger dose of liquor +ammoniæ and caustic alkali must be used, according to the dryness of the +stearine matters to be operated upon. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE AND CERTAIN METHOD TO DETERMINE THE COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP. + +BY DR. ALEXANDER MÜLLER. + + +In consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are +determined in one portion of the soap, and the alkali by the +incineration of another, I consider the following method is not unworthy +of publication, because it appears to afford quicker and more correct +results by reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation. It is +available principally for soda soaps, which are the most common; but it +may be also employed with corresponding alterations for soaps which have +other bases. + +A piece of soap weighing two or three grammes is dissolved in a tared +beaker glass of about 160 cubic centimetres capacity with 80 to 100 +cubic centimetres of water, by heat, in a water-bath, and then three or +four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as much as is +necessary to decompose the soap, added from a burette. When, after +repeated agitation, the fatty acids have separated in a transparent +clear stratum from the aqueous solution, it is allowed to cool, and then +the contents of the beaker glass are placed in a moistened filter, which +has been previously dried at 212° Fahr. and weighed. The contents of the +filter are washed until their acid reaction disappears. In the meanwhile +the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath, so that, it being already +dry, may support the washed and partly dry filter, which is laid on the +mouth of the glass as if it were in the funnel. The fatty acids soon +pass through the paper, and for the most part flow ultimately to the +bottom of the beaker glass; the increase of weight of which, after +cooling, and the subtraction of the weight of the filter, gives the +quantity of fatty acids present in the soap. A second drying and +weighing is not necessary, if on the cold sides of the interior of the +glass no damp is to be observed, which is occasioned by a trace of water +still present. If the quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap +is considerable, it may be easily found by incinerating the filter and +determining the weight of the residue. + +The fluid runs from the fatty acids on the filter, which, with the +washings, has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker glass, is +colored with tincture of litmus, and decomposed with a test alkaline +solution until the blue color appears. The difference of the quantity of +alkali required to neutralize the sulphuric acid, and the quantity of +sulphuric acid used in the first instance, allows a calculation to be +made as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap, for example:-- + +23.86 grms. of soap (partly cocoa-nut oil soap). +17.95 " fatty acids with filter. +04.44 " filter. +----- +13.51 grms. of hydrates of fatty acids = 56.62 per cent. + +28.00 cub. cent. of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the + decomposition of the soap, of which 100 cub. cent. + represent 2982 grms. of carbonate of soda. + +17.55 cub. cent. of alkaline fluid, which were used for the + saturation of the above acid, and of which 100 cub. + cent. saturate an equal quantity of that acid. +---- +10.45 cub. cent. of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali + contained in the soap, representing 0.1823 grms. of + soda = 7.64 per cent. + +A determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in another portion +of soap 9.57 per cent. of soda, because the sulphate of soda and +chloride of sodium present in the soap gave up their alkali. + +The alkaline fluid applied by me was a saccharine solution of lime, +which can be naturally replaced by a solution of soda, and must be if +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be +determined in the following way:-- + +The fluid again exactly neutralized with alkali is evaporated to +dryness, and the residue gently heated to redness. As in the above +manipulation, the fluid was not heated to the boiling point, the +original chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda are contained in the +weighed residue, besides the soda of the soap and that which has been +added with the sulphuric acid, forming sulphate of soda. A second +exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the whole residue +into sulphate of soda, and from the increase of weight, by a comparison +of the equivalents of NaCl and NaO, SO_{3} the quantity of the former +may be decided. According to the equivalents which Kopp furnished in +1850, the increase of weight to the chloride of sodium is as 1:4.68. The +original sulphate of soda must be, lastly, found by the subtraction of +the same salt formed plus the calculated chloride of sodium from the +first heated residue. + +In practice, it is seldom necessary to proceed with the determination of +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda, except with stirred and +cocoa-nut oil soaps; certainly less of the truth is seen if, after the +above determination of the fatty acids and the effective alkali, the +absent per centage of water is introduced in the calculation, than if +the water is reckoned, which is never completely evolved from soap, even +technically prepared at 302° Fahr., and another determination made of +the fatty acids or alkali _en bloc_ the fatty acids, or even the +alkaline contents. + +The method here given partakes of the usual imperfections, that the +fatty acids as well as the unsaponified soap are equally estimated, and +the mixed hydrate or carbonate of the alkali as well as the combined +alkali. The presence of the carbonate can be easily recognized by the +foaming of the soap solution, upon the addition of the sulphuric acid. +These imperfections, however, are of little importance. + +It must be granted that the minutely correct determination of the +constitution of soap must be always yielded up to those who are +technically conversant with this department of chemistry, the estimation +of free alkali and unchanged fat excluded in, at least, by certain ages +of the soap. Further, a considerable excess of one or another ingredient +soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the +characteristic properties of a good product, and a small excess can be +judged sufficiently exact from the proportion of the alkali, which, +supposing soda present, should not amount to more than 13 per cent. with +a pure cocoa-nut oil soap, not less than 11.5 per cent. with a tallow +soap; but with palm oil and mixed soaps the one or the other limit +approximates.--_Journal für Praktische Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +ON THE NATURAL FATS. + +BY DR. CHARLES LÖWIG. + + +The fats which exist in nature can be divided into the general and the +special; the former exist in almost all plants and parts of plants; the +latter includes only some vegetable substances, as _laurostearine_, +_myristicine_, and _palmatine_. The consistence of fats of the general +kind depend upon the proportions of margarine, stearine, and oleine +contained in them. The former preponderate in the solid fats (butter, +lard, and tallow); and the latter in the fluid ones or oils. According +as an oil contains oleic acid or olinic acid, it is termed a fatty or +drying oil. To the class of fatty oils belong olive, almond, hazel-nut, +beech, rape oils, &c.; to that of drying oils, linseed, nut, hemp, +poppy, grape-seed, oils, &c.; which are used for varnishes. + +In the vegetable kingdom the fats are chiefly in the seeds and in their +coverings, seldom in the perispemium (poppy), and in the fleshy +substance surrounding the seed (olive). The fat in the seed is mostly +enclosed in cells with a proteine compound. In the animal kingdom +certain parts of the body are quite filled with fat-cells, particularly +under the skin (_Paniculus adiposus_), in the cavities of the abdomen, +in the so-called _omentum_, in the kidneys and the tubulated canals of +the bones. Fat is also enclosed in cells (fatty globules) in milk. + +It is established, without a doubt, that a greater portion of the fat +which exists in the animal kingdom originates from the vegetable +kingdom, for it is introduced into the body cotemporaneously with the +proteine compounds of that kingdom. A portion of the fat as well as wax +is formed in the animal organismus, as shown by a number of +observations, and in most cases it is unquestionable that the +non-nitrogenous nutriments, as starch, serve for the formation of fat by +a process of deoxidation; nevertheless, the formation of fat in the +animal body appears only to take place when the substances containing +starch enter the body simultaneously with fat. + +If the fat existing in the animal body is contained in cellular tissue, +its separation may be simply effected by placing the incised tissue in +hot water. The cells burst and the fat collects itself on the surface of +the water. If vegetable substances contain fat in large quantity, as, +for example, seeds, it may be obtained by expression. The dried seeds +are bruised and expressed between either cold or hot metallic plates. +Olives are laid in heaps before expression; when they begin to ferment, +they can be completely expressed. If animal and vegetable substances +contain only a little fat, it must be extracted by ether. + +In the pure condition the fats are mostly odorless and tasteless; when +they possess an odor, it arises mostly from the presence of small +quantities of volatile fatty acids, as butyric acid, capric acid, &c.; +which becomes free through the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl +combinations. This ensues by the presence of water and air through a +kind of fermentation, and as it appears, by the presence of a +nitrogenous substance. The fats are insoluble in water, and, with the +exception of castor oil, are taken up by cold alcohol in very small +quantities, however, more in proportion as they contain oleine. In +boiling alcohol they are dissolved, but are, for the most part, again +separated on cooling, particularly those rich in stearine. All fats are +taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest +quantity. + +Their specific gravities fluctuate between .91 and .93. When heated, +fats assume a dark color, and boil between 482° and 572° Fahr., but the +boiling-point continuously rises, while an uninterrupted decomposition +proceeds. From oxide of glycyl ensues acroline; oleic acid affords a +fatty acid, and among the decomposition products of fats containing +stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid, and, at the same +time, some hydro-carbons are formed. When exposed quickly to a high +temperature, fats are completely decomposed. (Oil gas.) In closed +vessels the pure fats undergo no change, but, placed in thin layers in +the air, the fats containing oleine and oline rapidly absorb oxygen +under the strong evolution of heat, which will inflame porous bodies, as +cotton wool. The purer the fats are the more quickly their oxidation +results. When the fats contain slimy materials, these latter can be +destroyed with a little oxide of lead and water. (Preparation for the +application of varnishes.) The action of nitric acid, nitrous acid, +chlorine, sulphuric acid, &c., on fats is the same as that of these +bodies on the fatty acids. The fatty oils dissolve sulphur in the heat +which is again partly precipitated on cooling. When sulphur is heated +with fatty oils, namely, with linseed oil, it dissolves by degrees, and +a thick dark mass is formed, the so-called balsam of sulphur. By raising +the heat, a violent reaction ensues under the evolution of sulphuretted +hydrogen, and, at the same time, an oil resembling oil of garlic +volatilizes. This oil begins to boil at 160° Fahr., but its +boiling-point rises continually. + + * * * * * + +PERFUMES AS PREVENTIVES OF MOULDINESS. + + +An interesting paper on this subject has been published by Dr. +Macculloch. We presume our readers are aware that mouldiness is +occasioned by the growth of minute vegetables. Ink, paste, leather, and +seeds, are the substances that most frequently suffer from it. The +effect of cloves in preserving ink is well known; any of the essential +oils answer equally well. Leather may be kept free from mould by the +same substances. Thus Russian leather, which is perfumed with the tar of +birch, never becomes mouldy; indeed it prevents it from occurring in +other bodies. A few drops of any essential oil are sufficient also to +keep books entirely free from it. For harness, oil of turpentine is +recommended. Bookbinders, in general, employ alum for preserving their +paste; but mould frequently forms on it. Shoemakers' resin is sometimes +also used for the same purpose; but it is less effectual than oil of +turpentine. The best preventives, however, are the essential oils, even +in small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise, or cassia, by which +paste may be kept almost any length of time; indeed, it has, in this +way, been preserved for years. The paste recommended by Dr. Macculloch +is made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little +corrosive sublimate; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the +sublimate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by +insects. After it is made, a few drops of any of the essential oils are +added. Paste made in this way dries when exposed to the air, and may be +used merely by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, +it ought to be put into covered pots. Seeds may also be preserved by +the essential oils; and this is of great consequence, when they are to +be sent to a distance. Of course moisture must be excluded as much as +possible, as the oils or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould. + + * * * * * + +FUSEL OIL. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +This organic compound was first discovered by Scheele, as one of the +distillation products of the wort obtained from the fermentation of +potatoes. It has been subsequently examined by Pelletier, Dumas, +Cahours, and others. It is generally now termed the hydrate of the oxide +of amyl, from amyl being supposed to be its base or radical, as cyanogen +is regarded to be the radical of another series of compounds. + +It passes over towards the termination of the distillation process in a +white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery and alcoholic solution of +the fusel oil. The crude oil, consisting of about one-half of its weight +of alcohol and water, may be purified, being shaken with water and +redistilled, with the previous addition of chloride of calcium. When the +temperature of the contents of retort reaches 296° Fahr., pure fusel oil +distils over. + +Fusel oil is a colorless oily fluid, which possesses at first not an +unagreeable odor, but at last is very disgusting, producing oppression +at the chest and exciting cough. It has a sharp hot taste, and burns +with a white blue flame. It boils at 296° Fahr., and at temperature of +-4° Fahr. it becomes solid, and forms crystals. Its specific gravity at +59° Fahr. is 0.8124, and its formula C_{10}H_{12}O_{2}. On paper it +produces a greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and when exposed to +the action of the air it acquires an acid reaction. Fusel oil is +slightly soluble in water, to which it imparts its odor; and soluble in +all proportions in alcohol, ether, volatile and fixed oils, and acetic +acid. It dissolves phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine without any +noticeable change, and also mixes with caustic soda and potash. It +rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid, with the disengagement of heat. When +mixed with concentrated sulphuric acid, the mixture becomes of a +violet-red color, and bisulphate of amyloxide is formed. Nitric acid and +chlorine decompose it. By its distillation with anhydrous phosphoric +acid, a fluid, oily combination of hydrogen and carbon results. By +oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, fusel oil yields +valerianic acid, which is used in medicine, and apple-oil, employed as a +flavoring ingredient in confectionery. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF PINE-APPLE. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +The above essence is, as already known, butyric ether more or less +diluted with alcohol; to obtain which pure, on the large scale and +economically, the following process is recommended:-- + +Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid, in 26 lbs. +of boiling water. Let the solution stand for several days; then add 8 +ounces of putrid cheese broken up with 3 lbs. of skimmed and curdled +sour milk and 3 lbs. of levigated chalk. The mixture should be kept and +stirred daily in a warm place, at the temperature of about 92° Fahr., +as long as gas is evolved, which is generally the case for five or six +weeks. + +The liquid thus obtained, is mixed with an equal volume of cold water, +and 8 lbs. of crystallized carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in +water, added. It is then filtered from the precipitated carbonate of +lime; the filtrate is to be evaporated down to 10 lbs., when 5-1/2 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are +to be carefully added. The butyric acid, which separates on the surface +of the liquid as a dark-colored oil, is to be removed, and the rest of +the liquid distilled; the distillate is now neutralized with carbonate +of soda, and the butyric acid separated as before, with sulphuric acid. + +The whole of the crude acid is to be rectified with the addition of an +ounce of sulphuric acid to every pound. The distillate is then saturated +with fused chloride of calcium, and redistilled. The product will be +about 28 ounces of pure butyric acid. To prepare the butyric acid or +essence of pine-apple, from this acid proceed as follows:--Mix, by +weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol, and two +parts of sulphuric acid in a retort, and submit the whole, with a +sufficient heat, to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes +over ceases to emit a fruity odor. By treating the distillate with +chloride of calcium, and by its redistillation, the pure ether may be +obtained. + +The boiling-point of butyric ether is 238° Fahr. Its specific gravity, +0.904, and its formula, + +C_{12}H_{12}O_{4}, or C_{4}H_{5}O + C_{8}H_{7}O_{3}. + +Bensch's process, above described, for the production of butyric acid, +affords a remarkable exemplification of the extraordinary +transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or +by catalytic action. When cane sugar is treated with tartaric acid, +especially under the influence of heat, it is converted into grape +sugar. This grape sugar, in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous +substances, such as cheese, is transformed in the first instance into +lactic acid, which combines with the lime of the chalk. The acid of the +lactate of lime, thus produced, is by the further influence of the +ferment changed into butyric acid. Hence, butyrate of lime is the final +result of the catalytic action in the process we have here recommended. + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION OF CRUDE PELARGONATE OF ETHYL-OXIDE (ESSENCE OF QUINCE.) + +BY DR. R. WAGNER. + + +It has been believed, until the most recent period, that the peel of +quinces contains oenanthylate of ethyl-oxide. New researches, however, +have led to the supposition that the odorous principle of quinces is +derived from the ether of pelargonic acid. In my last research on the +action of nitric acid on oil of rue, I found that besides the fatty +acids, which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic acid is formed. +This process may be advantageously employed for the preparation of crude +pelargonate of ethyl-oxide, which, on account of its extremely agreeable +odor, may be applied as a fruit essence equally with those prepared by +Dobereiner, Hofmann, and Fehling. For the preparation of the liquid, +which can be named the essence of quince, oil of rue is treated with +double its quantity of very diluted nitric acid, and the mixture heated +until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to be observed +in the liquid: the upper one is brownish, and the lower one consists of +the products of the oxidation of oil of rue and the excess of nitric +acid. The lower layer is freed from the greater part of its nitric acid +by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath. The white flocks frequently +found in the acid liquid, which are probably fatty acids, are separated +by filtration. The filtrate is mixed with spirit, and long digested in a +gentle heat, by which a fluid is formed, which has the agreeable odor of +quince in the highest degree, and may be purified by distillation. The +spirituous solution of pelargonic ether may also be profitably prepared +from oleic acid, according to Gottlieb's method.--_Journal für +Praktische Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION OF RUM-ETHER. + + +Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric acid, each twelve pounds; +of alcohol, twenty-six pounds; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds. Mix, +and distil twelve pints. The ether, as above prepared, is an article of +commerce in Austria, being the body to which rum owes its peculiar +flavor.--_Austrian Journal of Pharmacy._ + + * * * * * + +ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. + +BY FEHLING. + + +_Pine-apple Oil_ is a solution of one part of butyric ether, in eight or +ten parts of alcohol. For the preparation of this ether, pure butyric +acid must be first obtained by the fermentation of sugar, according to +the method of Bensch. One pound of this acid is dissolved in one pound +of strong alcohol, and mixed with from a quarter to half an ounce of +sulphuric acid; the mixture is heated for some minutes, whereby the +butyric ether separates as a light stratum. The whole is mixed with half +its volume of water, and the upper stratum then removed; the heavy fluid +is distilled, by which more butyric ether is obtained. The distillate +and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water, the lighter +portion of the liquid removed, which at last, by being shaken with water +and a little soda, is freed from adhering acid. + +For the preparation of the essence of pine-apple, one pound of this +ether is dissolved in 8 or 10 pounds of alcohol. 20 or 25 drops of this +solution is sufficient to give to one pound of sugar a strong taste of +pine-apple, if a little citric or tartaric acid has been added. + +_Pear-oil._--This is an alcoholic solution of acetate of amyloxide, and +acetate of ethyloxide. For its preparation, one pound of glacial acetic +acid is added to an equal weight of fusel-oil (which has been prepared +by being washed with soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature +between 254° and 284° Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of sulphuric +acid. The mixture is digested for some hours at a temperature of 254°, +by which means acetate of amyloxide separates, particularly on the +addition of some water. The crude acetate of amyloxide obtained by +separation, and by the distillation of the liquid to which the water has +been added, is finally purified by being washed with soda and water. +Fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of +acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of alcohol; this is the essence of +pear, which, when employed to flavor sugar or syrup, to which a little +citric or tartaric acid has been added, affords the flavor of bergamot +pears, and a fruity, refreshing taste. + +_Apple-oil_ is an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyloxide. It is +obtained impure, as a by product, when for the preparation of valerianic +acid, fusel-oil is distilled with bichromate of potash and sulphuric +acid. It is better prepared in the following manner:--For the +preparation of valerianic acid, 1 part of fusel-oil is mixed gradually +with 3 parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 parts of water added. A solution +of 2-1/4 parts of bichromate of potash, with 4-1/2 parts of water, is +heated in a tubulated retort, and into this fluid the former mixture is +gradually poured, so that the ebullition is not too rapid. The +distillate is saturated with carbonate of soda, and warmed, when a +solution of 3 parts of crystallized carbonate of soda, 2 parts of strong +sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal quantity of water, are added. The +valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum. + +One part, by weight, of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal +weight of sulphuric acid. The cold solution is added to 1-1/4 parts of +the above valerianic acid; the mixture is warmed for some minutes (not +too long or too much) in a water-bath, and then mixed with a little +water, by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates, +which is washed with water and carbonate of soda. For use as an essence +of apples, one part of this valerianate of amyloxide is dissolved in 6 +or 8 parts of alcohol. + + * * * * * + +VOLATILE OIL OF GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +The chemical history of this oil is one of great importance and +interest, affording, as it does, one of the examples where the progress +of modern chemistry has succeeded in producing artificially a complex +organic body, previously only known as the result of vital force. + +This volatile oil is obtained from the winter-green, an American shrub +of the heath family, by distillation. When this plant is distilled, at +first an oil passes over which consists of C_{10}H_{8}, but when the +temperature reaches 464° Fahr., a pure oil distils into the receiver. +Therefore the essential oil of this plant, like many others, consists of +two portions--one a hydro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated compound; +this latter is the chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so +much chemical interest, from the fact that it has been artificially +prepared. + +It is termed, when thus prepared, the spiroylate of the oxide of methyl, +and is obtained when two parts of wood spirit, one and a half parts of +spiroylic acid, and one part of sulphuric acid are distilled together. +It is a colorless liquid, of an agreeable aromatic odor and taste; it +dissolves slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether and +alcohol; it boils between 411° and 435° Fahr., and has a specific +gravity of 1.173. This compound expels carbonic acid from its +combinations, and forms a series of salts, which contain one atom of +base and one atom of spiroylate of the oxide of methyl. It behaves +therefore as a conjugate acid. Its formula is C_{14}H_{5}O_{5} + +C_{2}H_{3}O. + +The spiroylic acid may be separated from the natural oil by treating it +with a concentrated solution of caustic potash at a temperature of 113° +Fahr., when wood spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution +contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with +sulphuric acid, the spiroylic acid separates and subsides in the fluid. + +Spiroylic acid is also formed by the oxidation of spiroyligenic acid, +and when saligenin, salicin, courmacin, or indigo, is heated with +caustic potash. + + * * * * * + +ON THE APPLICATION OF ORGANIC CHEMISTRY TO PERFUMERY. + +BY DR. A.W. HOFMANN, + +_Professor to the Royal College of Chemistry, London_. + + +Cahours' excellent researches concerning the essential oil of +_Gaultheria procumbens_ (a North American plant of the natural order of +the Ericinæ of Jussieu), which admits of so many applications in +perfumery,[I] have opened a new field in this branch of industry. The +introduction of this oil among compound ethers must necessarily direct +the attention of perfumers[J] towards this important branch of +compounds, the number of which is daily increasing by the labors of +those who apply themselves to organic chemistry. The striking similarity +of the smell of these ethers to that of fruit had not escaped the +observation of chemistry; however, it was reserved to practical men to +discover by which choice and combinations it might be possible to +imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety, that makes it +probable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural combination +identical to that produced by art; so much so, as to enable the chemist +to produce from fruits the said combinations, provided he could have at +his disposal a sufficient quantity to operate upon. The manufacture of +artificial aromatic oils for the purpose of perfumery[K] is, of course, +a recent branch of industry; nevertheless, it has already fallen into +the hands of several distillers, who produce sufficient quantity to +supply the trade; a fact, which has not escaped the observation of the +Jury at the London Exhibition. In visiting the stalls of English and +French perfumers at the Crystal Palace, we found a great variety of +these chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at the same time +practically illustrated by confectionery flavored by them. However, as +most of the samples of the oils sent to the Exhibition were but small, I +was prevented, in many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. +The largest samples were those of a compound labelled "pear-oil," which, +by analysis, I discovered to be an alcoholic solution of pure acetate of +amyloxide. Not having sufficient quantity to purify it for combustion, I +dissolved it with potash, by which free fusel-oil was separated, and +determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver salt. + + 0.3080 gram. of silver salt = 0.1997 gram. of silver. + +The per centage of silver in acetate of silver is, according to + + Theory, 64.68 + Experiment, 64.55 + +The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of preparing +it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part fusel-oil, and two +parts of acetate of potash, had a striking smell of fruit, but it +acquired the pleasant flavor of the jargonelle pear only after having +been diluted with six times its volume of spirit of wine. + +Upon further inquiry I learned that considerable quantities of this oil +are manufactured by some distillers,--from fifteen to twenty pounds +weekly,--and sold to confectioners, who employ it chiefly in flavoring +pear-drops, which are nothing else but barley-sugar, flavored with this +oil. + +I found, besides the pear-oil, also an _apple-oil_, which, according to +my analysis, is nothing but valerianate of amyloxide. Every one must +recollect the insupportable smell of rotten apples which fills the +laboratory whilst making valerianic acid. By operating upon this raw +distillate produced with diluted potash, valerianic acid is removed, and +an ether remains behind, which, diluted in five or six times its volume +of spirits of wine, is possessed of the most pleasant flavor of apples. + +The essential oil[L] most abundant in the Exhibition was the pine-apple +oil, which, as you well know, is nothing else but the butyrate of +ethyloxide. Even in this combination, like in the former, the pleasant +flavor or scent is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol. The +butyric ether which is employed in Germany to flavor bad rum, is +employed in England to flavor an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale. +For this purpose they generally do not employ pure butyric acid, but a +product obtained by saponification of butter, and subsequent +distillation of the soap with concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol; +which product contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but +nevertheless can be used for flavoring spirits. The sample I analyzed +was purer, and appeared to have been made with pure butyric ether. + +Decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt, it gave + +0.4404 gram. of silver salt = 0.2437 gram. of silver. + +The per centage of silver in the butyrate of silver is according to + +Theory, 55.38 +Experiment, 55.33 + +Both English and French exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac-oil +and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the common sorts of brandy. +As these samples were very small, I was prevented from making an +accurate analysis. However, I am certain that the grape-oil is a +combination of amyl, diluted with much alcohol; since, when acted upon +with concentrated sulphuric acid, and the oil freed from alcohol by +washing it with water, it gave amylsulphuric acid, which was identified +by the analysis of the salt of barytes. + +1.2690 gram. of amylsulphate of barytes gave 0.5825 gram. of sulphate of +barytes. This corresponds to 45.82 per cent. of sulphate of barytes. + +Amylsulphate of barytes, crystallized with two equivalents of water, +contains, according to the analysis of Cahours and Kekule, 45.95 per +cent. of sulphate of barytes. It is curious to find here a body, which, +on account of its noxious smell, is removed with great care from +spirituous liquors, to be applied under a different form for the purpose +of imparting to them a pleasant flavor. + +I must needs here also mention the artificial oil of bitter almonds. +When Mitscherlich, in the year 1834, discovered the nitrobenzol, he +would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the +purpose of perfumery, and, after twenty years, appear in fine labelled +samples at the London Exhibition. It is true that, even at the time of +the discovery of nitrobenzol, he pointed out the striking similarity of +its smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds. However, at that time, +the only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases +and the distillation of benzoic acid, consequently the enormity of its +price banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of +bitter almonds. However, in the year 1845, I succeeded by means of the +anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common +coal-tar oil; and, in the year 1849, C.B. Mansfield proved, by careful +experiments, that benzol can be won without difficulty in great +quantity from coal-tar oil. In his essay, which contains many +interesting details about the practical use of benzol, he speaks +likewise of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented +nitrobenzol in great quantity. The Exhibition has proved that his +observation has not been left unnoticed by the perfumers. Among French +perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter +almonds, and under the still more poetical name of "essence de mirbane," +several samples of essential oils, which are no more nor less than +nitrobenzol. I was not able to obtain accurate details about the extent +of this branch of manufacture, which seems to be of some importance. In +London, this article is manufactured with success. The apparatus +employed is that of Mansfield, which is very simple. It consists of a +large glass worm, the upper extremity of which divides in two branches +or tubes, which are provided with funnels. Through one of these funnels +passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid; the other is destined as a +receiver of benzol, which, for this purpose, requires not to be quite +pure; at the angle from where the two tubes branch out, the two bodies +meet together, and instantly the chemical combination takes place, which +cools sufficiently by passing through the glass worm. The product is +afterwards washed with water, and some diluted solution of carbonate of +soda; it is then ready for use. Notwithstanding the great physical +similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of bitter almonds, there is yet a +slight _difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced +nose_.[M] However, nitrobenzol is very useful in scenting soap, and +might be employed with great advantage by confectioners and cooks, +particularly on account of its safety, being entirely free from prussic +acid. + +There were, besides the above, several other artificial oils; they all, +however, were more or less complicated, and in so small quantities, that +it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature, and it was doubtful +whether they had the same origin as the former. + +The application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new; it is +probable that the study of all the ethers or ethereal combinations +already known, and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily +discovering, will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications. +The capryl-ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their +aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide is possessed of the most +intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the +manufacturers of perfumes.--_Annalen der Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE "JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS."[N] + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY. + + +SIR, + +When such periodicals as "Household Words" and the "Family Herald" +contain scientific matters, treated in a manner to popularize science, +all real lovers of philosophy must feel gratified; a little fiction, a +little metaphor, is expected, and is accepted with the good intention +with which it is given, in such popular prints; but when the "Journal of +the Society of Arts" reprints quotations from such sources, without +modifying or correcting their expressions, it conveys to its readers a +tissue of fiction rather too flimsy to bear a truthful analysis.[O] + +In the article on Chemistry and Perfumery, in No. 47, you quote that +"some of the most delicate perfumes are now made by chemical artifice, +and not, as of old, by distilling them from flowers." Now, sir, this +statement conveys to the public a very erroneous idea; because the +substances afterwards spoken of are named essences of fruit, and not +essences of flowers, and the essences of fruits named in your article +never are, and never can be, used in perfumery. This assertion is based +on practical experience. The artificial essences of fruits are ethers: +when poured upon a handkerchief, and held up to the nose, they act, as +is well known, like chloroform. Dare a perfumer sell a bottle of such a +preparation to an "unprotected female?" + +Again, you quote that "the drainings of cow-houses are the main source +to which the manufacturer applies for the production of his most +delicate and admired perfumes." + +Shade of Munchausen! must I refute this by calling your attention to the +fact that in the south of France more than 80,000 persons are employed, +directly and indirectly, in the cultivation of flowers, and in the +extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers? that Italy +cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as +extensive as the whole of some English counties? that tracts of +flower-farms exist in the Balkan, in Turkey, more extensive than the +whole of Yorkshire? Our own flower-farms at Mitcham, in Surrey, need not +be mentioned in comparison, although important. These, sir, are the main +sources of perfumes. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and in +the West Indies; but enough has been said, I hope, to refute the +cow-house story. This story is founded on the fact that Benzoic acid +_can be_ obtained from the draining of stables, and that Benzoic acid +has rather a pleasant odor. Some of the largest wholesale perfumers use +five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic +acid. The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared +for commercial purposes; as also the fruit essences. Those of your +readers interested in what _really is used_ in perfumery, are referred +to the last six numbers of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Practical +Chemistry," article "Perfumery." + + Your obedient servant, + SEPTIMUS PIESSE. + + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[P] + +SIR, + +The discussion about chemistry and perfumery, in reality amounts to +this: Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the term "perfumery" to such things +as Eau de Cologne, &c.; perfumed soaps, groceries, &c., he does not +appear to class as "perfumery." Now the artificial scents are as yet +chiefly used for the latter substances, which in common language, and, I +should say, in a perfumer's nomenclature also, would be included in +perfumery. The authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to +be found in a little French work called, I believe, "La Chimie de +l'Odorat" in which a full description is given of the collection of +fresh urine and its application to this purpose. I need scarcely say, +that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous +principle. + + Your obedient servant, + A PERFUMER. + +[When benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes, it is _free +from the fragrant volatile oil_ which accompanies it when prepared by +sublimation from the resin, and to which oil the acid of commerce owes +its peculiar odor. This fact completely nullifies the above +assertion.--SEPTIMUS PIESSE.] + + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[Q] + + +Sir, + +If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery, published in No. +50 of your Journal, and intended as a reply to mine--though none was +needed--which appeared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature +implies, he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, +"confine the term perfumery" to various odoriferous substances, and +exclude scented soaps; because he would be aware that one-third of the +returns of every manufacturing perfumer is derived from perfumed soap. I +do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, "groceries, +&c.," the _et cætera_ meaning, I presume, "confectionery," because +perfumery has to do with one of the senses, SMELLING, while +groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another, TASTE; and had +not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and +manufactures would have defined them: I therefore repeat, that the +artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery, as stated in +No. 47, from the quoted authorities. If any man can deny this assertion, +let him now do so, "or forever after hold his peace," at least upon +this subject. The "Journal of the Society of Arts" is not a medium of +mere controversy. If a statement be made in error, let truth correct it, +which, if gain-sayed, it should be done, not under the veil of an +anonymous correspondent, but with a name to support the assertion. +Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the political +alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller. + + I am, sir, yours faithfully, + SEPTIMUS PIESSE. + 42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road. + +[If the word _flavor_ had been used by the various authors who have +written upon this subject, in place of the word _perfume_, the +dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented: the word +perfume, applied to pear-oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the +general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer, +that these substances are used by perfumers, who not only do not, but +cannot use them in their trade. + +But for _flavoring_ nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or +oils as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in +accordance with assertions of Hoffman, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. +However, the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost +anything by this misapplication of a trade term.--SEPTIMUS +PIESSE.] + + * * * * * + +OTTOS FROM PLANTS. + +QUANTITIES OF OTTOS, OTHERWISE ESSENTIAL OILS, YIELDED BY VARIOUS +PLANTS. + + + Pounds Of otto. +Orange-peel, 10 yield about 1 oz. +Dry marjoram herb, 20 " 3 oz. +Fresh " " 100 " 3 oz. + " Peppermint, 100 " 3 to 4 oz. +Dry " 25 " 3 to 4 oz. + " Origanum, 25 " 2 to 3 oz. + " Thyme, 20 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. + " Calamus, 25 " 3 to 4 oz. +Anise-seed, 25 " 9 to 12 oz. +Caraway, 25 " 16 oz. +Cloves, 1 " 2-1/2 oz. +Cinnamon, 25 " 3 oz. +Cassia, 25 " 3 oz. +Cedar-wood, 28 " 4 oz. +Mace, 2 " 3 oz. +Nutmegs, 2 " 3 to 4 oz. +Fresh balm herb, 60 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. +Cake of bitter almond, 14 " 1 oz. +Sweet flag root, 112 " 16 oz. +Geranium leaves, 112 " 2 oz. +Lavender flowers, 112 " 30 to 32 oz. +Myrtle leaves, 112 " 5 oz. +Patchouly herb, 112 " 28 oz. +Province rose blossom, 112 " 1-1/2 to 2 drachms. +Rhodium-wood, 112 " 3 to 4 oz. +Santal-wood, 112 " 30 oz. +Vitivert or kus-kus-root, 112 " 15 oz. + + * * * * * + +WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + + +FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH ENGLISH. + +_____________________________________________________________ +| |Imperial | |Troy |Kilo- |Lbs. | +|Litres. |Gallons. |Grammes. |Grains. |grammes. |Avoird. | +| 1, | 0.22010 | 1, | 15.434 | 1, | 2.20486 | +| 2, | 0.44019 | 2, | 30.868 | 2, | 4.40971 | +| 3, | 0.66029 | 3, | 46.302 | 3, | 6.61457 | +| 4, | 0.88039 | 4, | 61.736 | 4, | 8.81943 | +| 5, | 1.10048 | 5, | 77.170 | 5, | 11.02429 | +| 6, | 1.32058 | 6, | 92.604 | 6, | 13.22914 | +| 7, | 1.54068 | 7, | 108.038 | 7, | 15.43400 | +| 8, | 1.76077 | 8, | 123.472 | 8, | 17.63886 | +| 9, | 1.98087 | 9, | 138.906 | 9, | 19.84371 | +------------------------------------------------------------- + + +ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH FRENCH. + +_____________________________________________________________ +|Imp. | |Troy | |Lbs. |Kilo- | +|Gallons. |Litres. |Grains. |Grammes. |Avoird. |grammes. | +| 1, | 4.54346 | 1, | 0.06479 | 1, | 0.45354 | +| 2, | 9.08692 | 2, | 0.12958 | 2, | 0.90709 | +| 3, | 13.63038 | 3, | 0.19438 | 3, | 1.36063 | +| 4, | 18.17384 | 4, | 0.25917 | 4, | 1.81418 | +| 5, | 22.71730 | 5, | 0.32396 | 5, | 2.26772 | +| 6, | 27.26076 | 6, | 0.38875 | 6, | 2.72126 | +| 7, | 31.80422 | 7, | 0.45354 | 7, | 3.17481 | +| 8, | 36.34768 | 8, | 0.51834 | 8, | 3.62835 | +| 9, | 40.89114 | 9, | 0.58313 | 9, | 4.08190 | +------------------------------------------------------------- + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] Brother of the Author. + +[B] See Appendix, "Benzoic Acid." + +[C] See "Incense." + +[D] The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last tariff, +8_d._ per flacon of 4 oz., or 20_s._ per gallon. + +[E] Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a minute +in one pint, imperial, of distilled water. + +[F] The imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers. + +[G] Annals of Pharmacy, vol. ii, pp. 168, 169. + +[H] The deposit is nearly insoluble in water, is acid and astringent to +the taste, gives an acid reaction with litmus. Spirit of wine dissolves +out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous +substance, having a rancid smell. Ether leaves a pleasant-smelling +resin, somewhat resembling camphor. The remainder is nearly insoluble in +liq. ammoniæ, liq. potassæ, more soluble in nitric acid, and well +deserves to be further examined. + +[I] Qy. Confectionery? + +[J] Qy. Confectioners? + +[K] Confectionery. + +[L] The writer means ether! + +[M] See "Almond." + +[N] No. 49. + +[O] If our Correspondent had carefully read the article he so fiercely +attacks, he would have seen that the authorities were Dr. Lyon +Playfair's Lecture, and Professsor Fehling, in the "Wurtemberg Journal +of Industry."--ED. + +[P] No. 50. + +[Q] No. 52. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Art of Perfumery, by G. W. 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W. Septimus Piesse + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Art of Perfumery + And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants + +Author: G. W. Septimus Piesse + +Release Date: July 28, 2005 [EBook #16378] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF PERFUMERY *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<p><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a></p> +<h1>The Art</h1> + +<h2>OF</h2> + +<h1>PERFUMERY,</h1> + +<h3>AND METHOD OF OBTAINING</h3> + +<h3>THE ODORS OF PLANTS.</h3> +<p><a name="herb_image" id="herb_image"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 314px;"> +<img src="images/image002.png" width="314" height="316" alt="DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS.</span> +</div><p><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a></p> + +<p>From the rafters of the roof of the Drying House are suspended in +bunches all the herbs that the grower cultivates. To accelerate the +desiccation of rose leaves and other petals, the Drying House is fitted +up with large cupboards, which are slightly warmed with a convolving +flue, heated from a fire below.</p> + +<p>The flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas stretched upon a +frame rack, being not less than twelve feet long by four feet wide. When +charged they are placed on shelves in the warm cupboards till dry.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a></p> +<h2><a name="THE_ART_OF_PERFUMERY" id="THE_ART_OF_PERFUMERY"></a>THE ART OF PERFUMERY,</h2> + +<h3>AND METHOD OF OBTAINING THE ODORS OF PLANTS,</h3> + +<h4>WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, +SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, COSMETIQUES, +PERFUMED SOAP, ETC.</h4> + +<h4>WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, +ETC. ETC.</h4> +<p><a name="intro_image" id="intro_image"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;"> +<img src="images/image003.png" width="336" height="309" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>BY G.W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE,</h2> + +<h4>AUTHOR OF THE "ODORS OF FLOWERS," ETC. ETC.</h4> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p> +PHILADELPHIA:<br /> +LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON.<br /> +1857.<br /> +<br /> +PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN & SON,<br /><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a> +19 St. James Street.<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a></p> +<h2><a name="Preface" id="Preface"></a>Preface.</h2> + + +<p>By universal consent, the physical faculties of man have been divided +into five senses,—seeing, hearing, touching, tasting, and smelling. It +is of matter pertaining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly +treats. Of the five senses, that of smelling is the least valued, and, +as a consequence, is the least tutored; but we must not conclude from +this, our own act, that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare +and happiness.</p> + +<p>By neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve, we are constantly led to +breathe impure air, and thus poison the body by neglecting the warning +given at the gate of the lungs. Persons who use perfumes are more +sensitive to the presence of a vitiated atmosphere than those who +consider the faculty of smelling as an almost useless gift.</p> + +<p>In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes was in constant +practice, and it had the high sanction of Scriptural authority.</p> + +<p>The patrons of perfumery have always been considered <a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>the most civilized +and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing how +to enjoy the faculties which we possess, then must we learn not only how +to distinguish the harmony of color and form, in order to please the +sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear; the comfort of +appropriate fabrics to cover the body, and to please the touch, but the +smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself with the +odoriferous products of the garden and the forest.</p> + +<p>Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes is in the highest degree +prophylactic; the refreshing qualities of the citrine odors to an +invalid is well known. Health has often been restored when life and +death trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of +cedrat in a sick chamber.</p> + +<p>The commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance to the wealth +of nations. But, vast as is the consumption of perfumes by the people +under the rule of the British Empire, little has been done in England +towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw +odorous substances in demand by the manufacturing perfumers of Britain; +consequently nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries. +However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the +attention of the Society of Arts, and favorable results will doubtless +follow. Much of the waste land in England, and especially in Ireland, +could <a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>be very profitably employed if cultivated with odor-bearing +plants.</p> + +<p>The climate of some of the British colonies especially fits them for the +production of odors from flowers that require elevated temperature to +bring them to perfection.</p> + +<p>But for the lamented death of Mr. Charles Piesse,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Colonial Secretary +for Western Australia, I have every reason to believe that flower-farms +would have been established in that colony long ere the publication of +this work. Though thus personally frustrated in adapting a new and +useful description of labor to British enterprise, I am no less sanguine +of the final result in other hands.</p> + +<p>Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent to England some fine samples +of Oil of Behn. The Moringa, from which it is produced, has been +successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly +inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of +flowers by the maceration process.</p> + +<p>At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace, +Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to +illustrate the commercial use of flowers—eye-lectures on the methods of +obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses.<a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a> The +horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the +methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate, +entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For many +ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the Cornish +miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus cast away by +ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel between the old +miners and the modern gardeners.</p> + +<p>Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of +Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much +matter that has already passed under their eyes.</p> + +<p>To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book +form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals +all that I considered might be useful to the reader.</p> + +<p>To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W. Bastick, I +respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely +given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a></p> +<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents.</h2> + + +<h3><a href="#Preface">Preface</a></h3> + + +<h3><a href="#INTRODUCTION_AND_HISTORY">SECTION I.</a></h3> + +<h4>INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.</h4> + + +<p>Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods—Origin lost +in the Depth of its Antiquity—Possibly derived from +Religious Observances—Incense or Frankincense +burned in Honor of the Divinities—Early Christians +put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols—Use +of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans—Pliny +and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious +People scent themselves Three Times a Day—Use +of Incense in the Romish Church—Scriptural Authority +for the use of Perfume—Composition of the +Holy Perfume—The Prophet's Simile—St. Ephræm's +Will—Fragrant Tapers—Constantine provides fragrant +Oil to burn at the Altars—Frangipanni—Trade +in the East in Perfume Drugs—The Art of +Perfumery of little Distinction in England—Solly's +admirable Remarks on Trade Secrets—British Horticulturists +neglect to collect the Fragrance of the +Flowers they cultivate—The South of France the +principal Seat of the Art—England noted for Lavender—Some +Plants yield more than one Perfume—Odor +of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known +as Essential Oil or Otto</p> + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_II">SECTION II.</a></h3> + +<p>Consumption of Perfumery—Methods of obtaining the +Odors:—Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_III">SECTION III.</a></h3> + +<p>Steam-Still—Macerating Pan—Ottos exhibited at the +Crystal Palace of 1851—Simple Extracts:—Allspice, +Almond, Artificial Otto of Almonds, Anise, +Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, +Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, +Citron, Citronella, Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet +Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, Heliotrope, +Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, +Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, +Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, +Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, +Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory +of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields +two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, Sassafras, +Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, +Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, +Wallflower, Winter-green—Duty on Essential +Oils—Quantity imported—Statistics, &c.,</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_IV">SECTION IV.</a></h3> + +<h4>ANIMAL PERFUMES.</h4> + +<p>Ambergris—Civet—Musk</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_V">SECTION V.</a></h3> + +<p>Smelling Salts:—Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible +Salts, Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile +Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery.—Aromatic +Vinegar, Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four +Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, +Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_VI">SECTION VI.</a></h3> + +<h4>BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.</h4> + +<p>Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous +Principle of Plants</p> + +<p>Compound Odors:—The Alhambra Perfume—The Bosphorus +Bouquet—Bouquet d'Amour—Bouquet des +Fleurs du Val d'Andorre—Buckingham Palace +Bouquet—Délices—The Court Nosegay—Eau de Chypre—The +Empress Eugenie's Nosegay—Esterhazy—Ess +Bouquet—Eau de Cologne. (French and English +Spirit.) Flowers of Erin—Royal Hunt Bouquet—Extract +of Flowers—The Guards' Bouquet—Italian +Nosegay—English Jockey Club—French +Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English +and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape +and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume—The +Kew Garden Nosegay—Millefleurs—Millefleurs et +Lavender—Delcroix's Lavender—Marechale—Mousselaine—Bouquet +de Montpellier—Caprice de la +Mode—May Flowers—Neptune, or Naval Nosegay—Bouquet +of all Nations—Isle of Wight Bouquet—Bouquet +du Roi—Bouquet de la Reine Victoria—Rondeletia. +(Odors properly blended produce +new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal—Suave—Spring +Flowers—Tulip Nosegay—The Wood Violet—Windsor +Castle Bouquet—Yacht Club Nosegay</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_VII">SECTION VII.</a></h3> + +<p>The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums—Abstaining +from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation—The +Vase at Alnwick Castle—Sachet Powders—Sachet +au Chypre—Sachet à la Frangipanne—Heliotrope +Sachet—Lavender Sachet—Sachet à la +Maréchale—Mousselaine—Millefleur—Portugal Sachet—Patchouly +Sachet—Pot Pourri—Olla Podrida—Rose +Sachet—Santal-wood Sachet—Sachet (without +a name)—Vervain Sachet—Vitivert—Violet +Sachet—Perfumed Leather—Russia Leather—Peau +d'Espagne—Perfumed Letter Paper—Perfumed +Book-markers—Cassolettes, and Printaniers</p> + +<p>Pastils—The Censer—Vase in the British Museum—Method +of using the Censer—Incense for Altar Service—Yellow +Pastils—Dr. Paris's Pastils—Perfumer's +Pastils—Piesse's Pastils—Fumigation—The +Perfume Lamp—Incandescent Platinum—Eau à +Bruler—Eau pour Bruler—Fumigating Paper—Perfuming +Spills—Odoriferous Lighters</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_VIII">SECTION VIII.</a></h3> + +<h4>PERFUMED SOAP.</h4> + +<p>Perfumed Soap—Ancient Origin of Soap—Early Records +of the Soap Trade in England—Perfumers not Soap +Makers—Remelting—Primary Soaps—Curd Soap—Oil +Soap—Castile Soap—Marine Soap—Yellow Soap—Palm +Soap—Excise Duty on Soap—Fig Soft Soap—Naples +Soft Soap—The remelting Process—Soap +cutting—Soap stamping—Scented Soaps</p> + +<p>Almond Soap—Camphor Soap—Honey Soap—White +Windsor Soap—Brown Windsor Soap—Sand Soap—Fuller's +Earth Soap—Scenting Soaps Hot—Scenting +Soaps Cold—Colored Soaps:—Red, Green, Blue, +Brown Soaps—Otto of Rose Soap—Tonquin Musk +Soap—Orange-Flower Soap—Santal-wood Soap—Spermaceti +Soap—Citron Soap—Frangipanne Soap—Patchouly +Soap—Soft or Potash Soaps—Saponaceous +Cream of Almonds—Soap Powders—Rypophagon +Soap—Ambrosial Cream—Transparent soft +Soap—Transparent hard Soap—Medicated Soaps—Juniper +Tar Soap—Iodine Soap—Sulphur Soap—Bromine +Soap—Creosote Soap—Mercurial Soap—Croton +Oil Soap—Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases </p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_IX">SECTION IX.</a></h3> + +<h4>EMULSINES.</h4> + +<p>Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water—Prone +to Change—Amandine—Olivine—Honey and +Almond Paste—Pure Almond Paste—Almond Meal—Pistachio +Nut Meal—Jasmine Emulsion—Violet +Emulsion</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_X">SECTION X.</a></h3> + +<h4>MILKS OR EMULSIONS.</h4> + +<p>Liebig's notice of Almond Milk—Milk of Roses—Milk +of Almonds—Milk of Elder—Milk of Dandelion—Milk +of Cucumber—Essence of Cucumber—Milk of +Pistachio Nuts—Lait Virginal—Extract of Elder +Flowers</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XI">SECTION XI.</a></h3> + +<h4>COLD CREAM.</h4> + +<p>Manipulation—Cold Cream of Almonds—Violet Cold +Cream—Imitation Violet Cold Cream—Cold Cream of +various Flowers—Camphor Cold Cream—Cucumber +Cold Cream—Piver's Pomade of Cucumber—Pomade +Divine—Almond Balls—Camphor Balls—Camphor +Paste—Glycerine Balsam—Rose Lip Salve—White +Lip Salve—Common Lip Salve</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XII">SECTION XII.</a></h3> + +<h4>POMADES AND OILS.</h4> + +<p>Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with +Apples—Scentless Grease—Enfleurage and Maceration +process—Acacia, or Cassie Pomade—Benzoin +Pomade and Oil—Vanilla Oil and Pomade—Pomade +called Bear's Grease—Circassian Cream—Balsam of +Flowers—Crystallized Oils—Castor Oil Pomatum—Balsam +of Neroli—Marrow Cream—Marrow Pomatum—Violet +Pomatum—Pomade Double, Millefleurs—Pomade +à la Heliotrope—Huile Antique—Philocome—Pomade +Hongroise—Hard or Stick Pomatums—Black +and Brown Cosmetique</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XIII">SECTION XIII.</a></h3> + +<h4>HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.</h4> + +<p>Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt—Kohhl, +the Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by +the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets +of the Eye—Turkish Hair Dye—Rastikopetra Dye—Litharge +Dye—Silver Dye—Hair Dyes, with Mordant—Inodorous +Dye—Brown and Black Hair Dye—Liquid +Lead Dye—Depilatory, Rusma</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XIV">SECTION XIV.</a></h3> + +<h4>ABSORBENT POWDERS.</h4> + +<p>Violet Powder—Rose Face Powder—Perle Powder—Liquid +Blanc for Theatrical Use—Calcined Talc—Rouge +and Red Paints—Bloom of Roses—Carmine +Toilet Rouge—Carthamus Flowers—Pink Saucers—Crépon +Rouge</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XV">SECTION XV.</a></h3> + +<h4>TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.</h4> + +<p>Mialhi's Tooth Powder—Camphorated Chalk—Quinine +Tooth Powder—Prepared Charcoal—Peruvian Bark +Powder—Homœopathic Chalk—Cuttle-Fish Powder—Borax +and Myrrh—Farina Piesse's Dentifrice—Rose +Tooth Powder—Opiate Paste—Violet Mouth +Wash—Eau Botot—Botanic Styptic—Tincture of +Myrrh and Borax—Myrrh with Eau de Cologne—Camphorated +Eau de Cologne</p> + + +<h3><a href="#SECTION_XVI">SECTION XVI.</a></h3> + +<h4>HAIR WASHES.</h4> + +<p>Rosemary Hair Wash—Athenian Water—Vegetable or +Botanic Hair Wash—Astringent Extract of Roses +and Rosemary—Saponaceous Wash—Egg Julep—Bandolines—Rose +and Almond Bandoline</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a></p> +<h2>Contents of Appendix.</h2> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Page.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manufacture of Glycerine,</td><td align='left'><a href="#MANUFACTURE_OF_GLYCERINE"><b>249</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils,</td><td align='left'><a href="#TEST_FOR_ALCOHOL_IN_ESSENTIAL_OILS"><b>251</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil,</td><td align='left'><a href="#DETECTION_OF_POPPY_AND_OTHER_DRYING_OILS_IN_ALMOND_AND_OLIVE_OILS"><b>252</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coloring matter of Volatile Oils,</td><td align='left'><a href="#COLORING_MATTER_OF_VOLATILE_OILS"><b>253</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ARTIFICIAL_PREPARATION_OF_OIL_OF_CINNAMON"><b>254</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil,</td><td align='left'><a href="#DETECTION_OF_SPIKE_OIL_AND_TURPENTINE_IN_LAVENDER_OIL"><b>255</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce,</td><td align='left'><a href="#DIFFERENT_ORANGE-FLOWER"><b>255</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Concentrated Elder Water,</td><td align='left'><a href="#A_FORMULA_FOR_CONCENTRATED"><b>256</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Arnall on Spirits of Wine,</td><td align='left'><a href="#PRACTICAL_REMARKS_ON_SPIRIT_OF_WINE"><b>256</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Purification of Spirits by Filtration,</td><td align='left'><a href="#PURIFICATION_OF_SPIRITS"><b>259</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cobb on Otto of Lemons,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ON_ESSENTIAL_OIL_OR_OTTO_OF_LEMONS"><b>260</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bastick on Benzoic Acid,</td><td align='left'><a href="#BENZOIC_ACID_AND_TESTS_FOR_ITS_PURITY"><b>263</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>On the Coloring matters of Flowers,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ON_THE_COLORING-MATTERS_OF_FLOWERS"><b>267</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bleaching Bees' Wax,</td><td align='left'><a href="#IMPROVED_PROCESS_FOR"><b>274</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chemical Examination of Naples Soap,</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHEMICAL_EXAMINATION_OF_NAPLES"><b>275</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Manufacture of Soap,</td><td align='left'><a href="#MANUFACTURE_OF_SOAP"><b>275</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap,</td><td align='left'><a href="#A_SIMPLE_AND_CERTAIN_METHOD_TO_DETERMINE"><b>277</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>On the Natural Fats,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ON_THE_NATURAL_FATS"><b>281</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness,</td><td align='left'><a href="#PERFUMES_AS_PREVENTIVES"><b>284</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bastick on Fusel Oil,</td><td align='left'><a href="#FUSEL_OIL"><b>285</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bastick's Pine Apple Flavor,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ESSENCE_OF_PINE-APPLE"><b>286</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wagner's Essence of Quince,</td><td align='left'><a href="#PREPARATION_OF_CRUDE_PELARGONATE"><b>288</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Preparation of Rum-ether,</td><td align='left'><a href="#PREPARATION_OF_RUM-ETHER"><b>289</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Artificial Fruit essences,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ARTIFICIAL_FRUIT_ESSENCES"><b>289</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Volatile Oil of Gaultheria,</td><td align='left'><a href="#VOLATILE_OIL_OF_GAULTHERIA"><b>291</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Application of Chemistry to Perfumery,</td><td align='left'><a href="#ON_THE_APPLICATION_OF_ORGANIC"><b>293</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts,</td><td align='left'><a href="#CORRESPONDENCE_FROM_THE"><b>298</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants,</td><td align='left'><a href="#OTTOS_FROM_PLANTS"><b>303</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>French and English Weights and Measures compared,</td><td align='left'><a href="#WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES"><b>304</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a></p> +<h2><a name="Illustrations" id="Illustrations"></a>Illustrations.</h2> + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Page</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey,</td><td align='left'>(<a href="#herb_image"><b>Frontispiece</b></a>.)</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery,</td><td align='left'>(<a href="#intro_image"><b>Vignette</b></a>.)</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water,</td><td align='left'><a href="#pipette"><b>36</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil,</td><td align='left'><a href="#funnel"><b>37</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Almond,</td><td align='left'><a href="#almond"><b>43</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Styrax Benzoin,</td><td align='left'><a href="#styrax"><b>48</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cassie Buds,</td><td align='left'><a href="#Acacia"><b>50</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Clove,</td><td align='left'><a href="#Clove"><b>55</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Jasmine,</td><td align='left'><a href="#jasmine"><b>66</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Orange,</td><td align='left'><a href="#Orange"><b>78</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Patchouly Plant,</td><td align='left'><a href="#patchouly"><b>83</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-Wood,</td><td align='left'><a href="#santal"><b>96</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin,</td><td align='left'><a href="#tonquin"><b>101</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla,</td><td align='left'><a href="#vanilla"><b>103</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vitivert,</td><td align='left'><a href="#vitivert"><b>109</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Civet Cat,</td><td align='left'><a href="#civet"><b>117</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Musk Pod,</td><td align='left'><a href="#musk"><b>120</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Musk Deer,</td><td align='left'><a href="#deer"><b>121</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The Censer,</td><td align='left'><a href="#censer"><b>166</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Perfume Lamp,</td><td align='left'><a href="#lamp"><b>171</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Slab Soap Gauge,</td><td align='left'><a href="#gauge"><b>180</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Barring Gauge,</td><td align='left'><a href="#barring"><b>180</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Squaring Gauge,</td><td align='left'><a href="#squaring"><b>181</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Soap Scoops,</td><td align='left'><a href="#scoop"><b>181</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Soap Press,</td><td align='left'><a href="#press"><b>182</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Moulds,</td><td align='left'><a href="#moulds"><b>182</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Soap Plane,</td><td align='left'><a href="#plane"><b>187</b></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil Runner,</td><td align='left'><a href="#emulsine"><b>196</b></a></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a></p> +<h2>THE ART OF PERFUMERY.</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION_AND_HISTORY" id="INTRODUCTION_AND_HISTORY"></a>INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.</h2> + +<h3>SECTION I.</h3> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"By Nature's swift and secret working hand<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The garden glows, and fills the liberal air<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With lavish odors.<br /></span> +<span class="i8">There let me draw<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ethereal soul, there drink reviving gales,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Profusely breathing from the spicy groves<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And vales of fragrance."—<span class="smcap">Thomson</span>.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<p>Among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of +flowers, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands +pre-eminent. It is proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have +been in use from the earliest periods. The origin of this, like that of +many other arts, is lost in the depth of its antiquity; though it had +its rise, no doubt, in religious observances. Among the nations of +antiquity, an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most +profound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes by +incision and <a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>dries as a gum, from <i>Arbor-thurifera</i>, was formerly burnt +in the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that were +there adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death because +they would not offer incense to idols.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Of the use of these luxuries by the Greeks, and afterwards by the +Romans, Pliny and Seneca gives much information respecting perfume +drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they +sold. Oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used, for even +three times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint and +scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to +the baths in costly and elegant boxes called <span class="smcap">Narthecia</span>."</p></div> + +<p>In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies, and +particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and other +personages of exalted rank.</p> + +<p>Pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is procured, and +certain passages in his works indicate that dried flowers were used in +his time by way of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed with +spices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls <i>pot-pourri</i>, used +for scenting apartments, and generally placed in some ornamental Vase.</p> + +<p>It was not uncommon among the Egyptian ladies to carry about the person +a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the case to the present day +among the Chinese, and to wear beads made of scented wood. The +"bdellium" mentioned by Moses in Genesis is a perfuming gum, resembling +frankincense, if not identical with it.</p> + +<p>Several passages in Exodus prove the use of perfumes <a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>at a very early +period among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the Lord +said unto Moses: "1. And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon; +of Shittim wood shalt thou make it." "7. And Aaron shall burn thereon +sweet incense every morning; when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn +incense upon it." "34. Take unto thee sweet spices, stacte, and onycha, +and galbanum; these sweet spices with pure frankincense: of each shall +there be a like weight." "35. And thou shalt make it a perfume, a +confection after the art of the apothecary, tempered together pure and +holy." "36. And thou shalt beat some of it very small, and put of it +before the testimony in the tabernacle of the congregation, where I will +meet with thee; it shall be unto you most holy." "37. And as for the +perfume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according +to the composition thereof; it shall be unto thee holy for the Lord." +"38. Whosoever shall make like unto that to smell thereto, shall even be +cut off from his people."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It was from this religious custom, of employing incense in the +ancient temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile +of his, when he petitioned that his prayers might ascend before +the Lord like incense, Luke 1:10. It was while all the multitude +was praying without, at the hour of incense, that there appeared +to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the right side of the +altar of incense. That the nations attached a meaning not only of +personal reverence, but also of religious homage, to an offering +of incense, is demonstrable from the instance of the Magi, who, +having fallen down to adore the new-born Jesus, and recognized his +Divinity, presented Him with gold, myrrh <a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>and frankincense. The +primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted +the use of incense at the celebration of the Liturgy. St. Ephræm, +a father of the Syriac Church, directed in his will that no +aromatic perfumes should be bestowed upon him at his funeral, but +that the spices should rather be given to the sanctuary. The use +of incense in all the Oriental churches is perpetual, and almost +daily; nor do any of them ever celebrate their Liturgy without it, +unless compelled by necessity. The Coptic, as well as other +Eastern Christians, observe the same ceremonial as the Latin +Church in incensing their altar, the sacred vessels, and +ecclesiastical personages."—<span class="smcap">Dr. Rock's</span> <i>Hierurgia</i>.</p></div> + +<p>Perfumes were used in the Church service, not only under the form of +incense, but also mixed in the oil and wax for the lamps and lights +commanded to be burned in the house of the Lord. The brilliancy and +fragrance which were often shed around a martyr's sepulchre, at the +celebration of his festival, by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with +aromatics, have been noticed by St. Paulinus:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"With crowded lamps are these bright altars crowned,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And waxen tapers, shedding perfume round<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To gladden night, and joy e'en radiant day."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Dr. Rock's</span> <i>Hierurgia</i>.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Constantine the Great provided fragrant oils, to be burned at the altars +of the greater churches in Rome; and St. Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of +the end of the fourth and beginning of the fifth century, tells us how, +in his times, wax tapers were made for church use, so as to shed +fragrance as they burned:—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Lumina cerates adolentur odora papyris."</p></div> + +<p><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>A perfume in common use, even to this day, was the invention of one of +the earliest of the Roman nobles, named Frangipani, and still bears his +name; it is a powder, or sachet, composed of every known spice, in equal +proportions, to which is added ground iris or orris root, in weight +equal to the whole, with one per cent. of musk or civet. A liquid of the +same name, invented by his grandson Mercutio Frangipani, is also in +common use, prepared by digesting the Frangipane powder in rectified +spirits, which dissolves out the fragrant principles. This has the merit +of being the most lasting perfume made.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The trade for the East in perfume-drugs caused many a vessel to +spread its sails to the Red Sea, and many a camel to plod over +that tract which gave to Greece and Syria their importance as +markets, and vitality to the rocky city of Petra. Southern Italy +was not long ere it occupied itself in ministering to the luxury +of the wealthy, by manufacturing scented unguents and perfumes. So +numerous were the <span class="smcap">Unguentarii</span>, or perfumers, that they +are said to have filled the great street of ancient +Capua."—<span class="smcap">Hofmann</span>.</p></div> + +<p>As an art, in England, perfumery has attained little or no distinction. +This has arisen from those who follow it as a trade, maintaining a +mysterious secrecy about their processes. No manufacture can ever become +great or important to the community that is carried on under a veil of +mystery.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"On the subject of trade mystery I will only observe, that I am +convinced that it would be far more to the interest of +manufacturers if they were more willing to profit by the +experience of others, and less fearful and jealous of the supposed +secrets of their craft. It is a great mistake to think that a +successful <a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>manufacturer is one who has carefully preserved the +secrets of his trade, or that peculiar modes of effecting simple +things, processes unknown in other factories, and mysteries beyond +the comprehension of the vulgar, are in any way essential to skill +as a manufacturer, or to success as a trader."—<span class="smcap">Professor +Solly</span>.</p></div> + +<p>If the horticulturists of England were instructed how to collect the +odors of flowers, a new branch of manufacture would spring up to vie +with our neighbors' skill in it across the Channel.</p> + +<p>Of our five senses, that of <span class="smcap">Smelling</span> has been treated with +comparative indifference. However, as knowledge progresses, the various +faculties with which the Creator has thought proper in his wisdom to +endow man will become developed, and the faculty of Smelling will meet +with its share of tuition as well as Sight, Hearing, Touch, and Taste.</p> + +<p>Flowers yield perfumes in all climates, but those growing in the warmer +latitudes are most prolific in their odor, while those from the colder +are the sweetest. Hooker, in his travels in Iceland, speaks of the +delightful fragrance of the flowers in the valley of Skardsheidi; we +know that winter-green, violets, and primroses are found here, and the +wild thyme, in great abundance. Mr. Louis Piesse, in company with +Captain Sturt, exploring the wild regions of South Australia, writes: +"The rains have clothed the earth with a green as beautiful as a +Shropshire meadow in May, and with flowers, too, as sweet as an English +violet; the pure white anemone resembles it in scent. The Yellow Wattle, +<a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>when in flower, is splendid, and emits a most fragrant odor."</p> + +<p>Though many of the finest perfumes come from the East Indies, Ceylon, +Mexico, and Peru, the South of Europe is the only real garden of utility +to the perfumer. Grasse and Nice are the principal seats of the art; +from their geographical position, the grower, within comparatively short +distances, has at command that change of climate best fitted to bring to +perfection the plants required for his trade. On the seacoast his Cassiæ +grows without fear of frost, one night of which would destroy all the +plants for a season; while, nearer the Alps, his violets are found +sweeter than if grown in the warmer situations, where the orange tree +and mignionette bloom to perfection. England can claim the superiority +in the growth of lavender and peppermint; the essential oils extracted +from these plants grown at Mitcham, in Surrey, realize eight times the +price in the market of those produced in France or elsewhere, and are +fully worth the difference for delicacy of odor.</p> + +<p>The odors of plants reside in different parts of them, sometimes in the +roots, as in the iris and vitivert; the stem or wood, in cedar and +sandal; the leaves, in mint, patchouly, and thyme; the flower, in the +roses and violets; the seeds in the Tonquin bean and caraway; the bark, +in cinnamon, &c.</p> + +<p>Some plants yield more than one odor, which are quite distinct and +characteristic. The orange tree, for instance, gives three—from the +leaves one called<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> <i>petit grain</i>; from the flowers we procure <i>neroli</i>; +and from the rind of the fruit, essential oil of orange, <i>essence of +Portugal</i>. On this account, perhaps, this tree is the most valuable of +all to the operative perfumer.</p> + +<p>The fragrance or odor of plants is owing, in nearly all cases, to a +perfectly volatile oil, either contained in small vessels, or sacs +within them, or generated from time to time, during their life, as when +in blossom. Some few exude, by incision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin, +olibanum, myrrh, &c.; others give, by the same act, what are called +balsams, which appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous +gum. Some of these balsams are procured in the country to which the +plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a time, straining, and +then boiling again, or evaporating it down till it assumes the +consistency of treacle. In this latter way is balsam of Peru procured +from the <i>Myroxylon peruiferum</i>, and the balsam of Tolu from the +<i>Myroxylon toluiferum</i>. Though their odors are agreeable, they are not +much applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by some they are +mixed with soap, and in England they are valued more for their medicinal +properties than for their fragrance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="SECTION_II" id="SECTION_II"></a>SECTION II.</h2> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Were not summer's distillations left<br /></span> +<span class="i2">A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Beauty's effect with beauty were bereft,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Nor it, nor no remembrance what it was;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But flowers distilled, though they with winter meet,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Leese but their show, their substance still lives sweet."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Shakspeare</span>.<br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<p>The extensive flower farms in the neighborhood of Nice, Grasse, +Montpellier, and Cannes, in France, at Adrianople (Turkey in Asia), at +Broussa and Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a +measure indicate the commercial importance of that branch of chemistry +called perfumery.</p> + +<p>British India and Europe consume annually, at the very lowest estimate, +150,000 gallons of perfumed spirits, under various titles, such as eau +de Cologne, essence of lavender, esprit de rose, &c. The art of +perfumery does not, however, confine itself to the production of scents +for the handkerchief and bath, but extends to imparting odor to +inodorous bodies, such as soap, oil, starch, and grease, which are +consumed at the toilette of fashion. Some idea of the commercial +importance of this art may be formed, when we state that one of the +large perfumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs. of +orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers, 54,000 lbs. of +rose-leaves, 32,000 lbs. of jasmine blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets, +20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, besides rosemary, mint, +lemon, citron, thyme, and other odorous plants in <a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>large proportion. In +fact, the quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far +beyond the conception of those even used to abstract statistics.</p> + +<p>To the chemical philosopher, the study of perfumery opens a book as yet +unread; for the practical perfumer, on his laboratory shelves, exhibits +many rare essential oils, such as essential oil of the flower of the +<i>Acacia farnesiana</i>, essential oil of violets, tubereuse, jasmine, and +others, the compositions of which have yet to be determined.</p> + +<p>The exquisite pleasure derived from smelling fragrant flowers would +almost instinctively induce man to attempt to separate the odoriferous +principle from them, so as to have the perfume when the season denies +the flowers. Thus we find the alchemists of old, torturing the plants in +every way their invention could devise for this end; and it is on their +experiments that the whole art of perfumery has been reared. Without +recapitulating those facts which may be found diffused through nearly +all the old authors on medical botany, chemistry, pharmacy, and works of +this character, from the time of Paracelsus to Celnart, we may state at +once the mode of operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the +present day for preparing the various extracts or essences, waters, +oils, pomades, &c., used in his calling.</p> + +<p>The processes are divided into four distinct operations; viz.—</p> + +<p><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>1. <i>Expression</i>; 2. <i>Distillation</i>; 3. <i>Maceration</i>; 4. <i>Absorption</i>.</p> + +<p>1. <i>Expression</i> is only adopted where the plant is very prolific in its +volatile or essential oil,—<i>i.e.</i> its odor; such, for instance, as is +found in the pellicle or outer peel of the orange, lemon, and citron, +and a few others. In these cases, the parts of the plant containing the +odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth bag, and at others by +themselves into a press, and by mere mechanical force it is squeezed +out. The press is an iron vessel of immense strength, varying in size +from six inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain +one hundred weight or more; it has a small aperture at the bottom to +allow the expressed material to run for collection; in the interior is +placed a perforated false bottom, and on this the substance to be +squeezed is placed, covered with an iron plate fitting the interior; +this is connected with a powerful screw, which, being turned, forces the +substance so closely together, that the little vessels containing the +essential oils are burst, and it thus escapes. The common tincture press +is indeed a model of such an instrument. The oils which are thus +collected are contaminated with watery extracts, which exudes at the +same time, and from which it has to be separated; this it does by itself +in a measure, by standing in a quiet place, and it is then poured off +and strained.</p> +<p><a name="pipette" id="pipette"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 319px;"> +<img src="images/image032.png" width="319" height="319" alt="Pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water.</span> +</div> + +<p>2. <i>Distillation.</i>—The plant, or part of it, which <a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>contains the +odoriferous principle, is placed in an iron, copper, or glass pan, +varying in size from that capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, +and covered with water; to the pan a dome-shaped lid is fitted, +terminating with a pipe, which is twisted corkscrew fashion, and fixed +in a bucket, with the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel. The water +in the still—for such is the name of the apparatus—is made to boil; +and having no other exit, the steam must pass through the coiled pipe; +which, being surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses the +vapor before it can arrive at the tap. With the steam, the volatile +oils—<i>i.e.</i> perfume—rises, and is liquefied at the same time. The +liquids which thus run over, on standing for a time, separate into two +portions, and are finally divided with a funnel having a stopcock in the +narrow part of it. By this process, <a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>the majority of the volatile or +essential oils are procured. In some few instances alcohol—<i>i.e.</i> +rectified spirit of wine—is placed upon the odorous materials in lieu +of water, which, on being distilled, comes away with the perfuming +substance dissolved in it. But this process is now nearly obsolete, as +it is found more beneficial to draw the oil or essence first with water, +and afterwards to dissolve it in the spirit. The low temperature at +which spirit boils, compared with water, causes a great loss of +essential oil, the heat not being sufficient to disengage it from the +plant, especially where seeds such as cloves or caraway are employed. It +so happens, however, that the finest odors, the <i>recherché</i> as the +Parisians say, cannot be procured by this method; then recourse is had +to the next process.</p> +<p><a name="funnel" id="funnel"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 347px;"> +<img src="images/image033.png" width="347" height="345" alt="Tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits +from oil." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits +from oil.</span> +</div> + +<p>3. <i>Maceration.</i>—Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of +flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the least +understood in England; as this operation yields not only the most +exquisite <a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>essences indirectly, but also nearly all those fine pomades +known here as "French pomatums," so much admired for the strength of +fragrance, together with "French oils" equally perfumed. The operation +is conducted thus:—For what is called pomade, a certain quantity of +purified mutton or deer suet is put into a clean metal or porcelain pan, +this being melted by a steam heat; the kind of flowers required for the +odor wanted are carefully picked and put into the liquid fat, and +allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours; the fat has a +particular affinity or attraction for the oil of flowers, and thus, as +it were, draws it out of them, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly +perfumed; the fat is strained from the spent flowers, and fresh are +added four or five times over, till the pomade is of the required +strength; these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French +makers as Nos. 6, 12, 18, and 24, the higher numerals indicating the +amount of fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation is +followed; but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived +from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, and the same results are +obtained. These oils are called "Huile Antique" of such and such a +flower.</p> + +<p>When neither of the foregoing processes gives satisfactory results, the +method of procedure adopted is by,—</p> + +<p>4. <i>Absorption</i>, or <i>Enfleurage.</i>—The odors of some flowers are so +delicate and volatile, that the heat required in the previously named +processes would <a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>greatly modify, if not entirely spoil them; this +process is, therefore, conducted cold, thus:—Square frames, about three +inches deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, +are procured; over the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an +inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula; into this the +flower buds are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged completely over it, and +there left from twelve to seventy-two hours.</p> + +<p>Some houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and Sons; Pascal Brothers; H. +Herman, and a few others, have 3000 such frames at work during the +season; as they are filled, they are piled one over the other, the +flowers are changed so long as the plants continue to bloom, which now +and then exceeds two or three months.</p> + +<p>For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are imbued with the +finest olive oil or oil of ben, and stretched upon a frame made of iron; +on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. This +operation is repeated several times, after which the cloths are +subjected to great pressure, to remove the now perfumed oil.</p> + +<p>As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the +reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come +to speak of the individual flower or plant.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_III" id="SECTION_III"></a>SECTION III.</h2> + + +<p>Whenever a Still is named, or an article is said to be distilled or +"drawn," it must be understood to be done so by steam apparatus, as this +is the only mode which can be adopted for obtaining anything like a +delicate odor; the old plan of having the fire immediately under the +still, conveying an empyreumatic or burnt smell to the result, has +become obsolete in every well-regulated perfumatory.</p> + +<p>The steam-still differs from the one described only in the lower part, +or pan, which is made double, so as to allow steam from a boiler to +circulate round the pan for the purpose of boiling the contents, instead +of the direct fire. In macerating, the heat is applied in the same way, +or by a contrivance like the common glue-pot, as made use of nowadays.</p> + +<p>This description of apparatus will be found very useful for experiments +which we will suggest by-and-by.</p> + +<p>The perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops of Paris and +London, are either simple or compound; the former are called extracts, +<i>extraits</i>, <i>esprits</i>, or essences, and the latter <i>bouquets</i> and +nosegays, which are mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity +that no one flower or odor can be discovered as predominating over +another; and when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully +blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the <a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>olfactory nerve, +and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to purchase them.</p> + +<p>We shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple extracts of +flowers. This will be followed by the process for preparing ambergris, +musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin, are of the +utmost importance as forming a large part in the most approved bouquets; +and we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for all +the fashionable bouquets and nosegays, the value of which, we doubt not, +will be estimated according to the labor bestowed upon their analysis.</p> + +<p>In order to render the work more easy of consultation, we have adopted +the alphabetical arrangement in preference to a more scientific +classification.</p> + +<p>Among the collection of ottos of the East India Company at the +Exhibition of 1851, were several hitherto unknown in this country, and +possessing much interest.</p> + +<p>It is to be regretted, that no person having any practical knowledge of +perfumery was placed on the jury of Class IV or XXIX. Had such been the +case, the desires of the exhibitors would probably have been realized, +and European perfumers benefited by the introduction of new odors from +the East. Some of the ottos sent by a native perfumer of Benares were +deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as <i>Chumeylee</i>, <i>Beyla</i>, +<i>Begla</i>, <i>Moteya</i>, and many others from the Moluccas, but without any +information respecting them.</p> + +<p>We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than <a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>a tithe of the plants +that have a perfume—only those will be mentioned that are used by the +operative perfumer, and such as are imitated by him in consequence of +there being a demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him +from obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under our +notice is—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Allspice.</span>—The odoriferous principle of allspice, commonly +called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried fruit, before it is +quite ripe, of the <i>Eugenia pimenta</i> and <i>Myrtus pimenta</i> with water. It +is thus procured as an essential oil; it is but little used in +perfumery, and when so, only in combination with other spice oils; for +scenting soap it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the +smell of cloves, and deserves more attention than it has hitherto +received. Mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with +one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms what may be termed +extract of allspice, which extract will be found very useful in the +manufacture of low-priced bouquets.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Almonds.</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Virgil.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages. It may be procured by +distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe, and the kernels of +stone fruit; for trade purposes, it is obtained from the <a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>bitter +almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after +it is shelled. In the ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press +for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the cake +which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water, and +allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to +distillation. The reason for moistening the cake is well understood to +the practical chemist, and although we are not treating the subject of +perfumery in a chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not +be inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds does +not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that it is produced +by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and emulsine contained +in the almonds, together with the water that is added. Analogous +substances exist in laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be +pursued when they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened +cake into a bag of coarse <a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>cloth, or spread it upon a sieve, and then +force the stream through it; in either case, the essential oil of the +almond rises with the watery vapor, and is condensed in the still-worm. +In this concentrated form, the odor of almonds is far from agreeable; +but when diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half +ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very pleasant.</p> +<p><a name="almond" id="almond"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;"> +<img src="images/image039.png" width="361" height="350" alt="Almond." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Almond.</span> +</div> + +<p>The essential oil of almonds, enters into combination with soap, cold +cream, and many other materials prepared by the perfumer; for which see +their respective titles.</p> + +<p>Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential oil.</p> + +<p>In experiments with this substance, it must be carefully remembered that +it is exceedingly <i>poisonous</i>, and, therefore, great caution is +necessary in its admixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise +dangerous results may ensue.</p> + +<p><i>Artificial Otto of Almonds.</i>—Five or six years ago, Mr. Mansfield, of +Weybridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from +benzole. (Benzole is obtained from tar oil.) His apparatus, according to +the Report of the juries of the 1851 Exhibition, consists of a large +glass tube in the form of a coil, which at the upper end divides into +two tubes; each of which is provided with a funnel. A stream of nitric +acid flows slowly into one of the funnels, and benzole into the other. +The two substances meet at the point of union of the tubes, and a +combination ensues with the evolution of heat. As the <a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>newly formed +compound flows down through the coil it becomes cool, and is collected +at the lower extremity; it then requires to be washed with water, and +lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to render it fit for +use. Nitro-benzole, which is the chemical name for this artificial otto +of almonds, has a different odor to the true otto of almonds, but it can +nevertheless be used for perfuming soap. Mr. Mansfield writes to me +under date of January 3d, 1855:—"In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three +King Court, began to make this perfume under my license; latterly I +withdrew the license from them by their consent, and since then it is +not made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Anise.</span>—The odorous principle is procured by distilling the +seeds of the plant <i>Pimpinella anisum</i>; the product is the oil of +aniseed of commerce. As it congeals at a temperature of about 50° Fahr., +it is frequently adulterated with a little spermaceti, to give a certain +solidity to it, whereby other cheaper essential oils can be added to it +with less chance of detection. As the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in +spirit, and the spermaceti insoluble, the fraud is easily detected.</p> + +<p>This perfume is exceedingly strong, and is, therefore, well adapted for +mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums, but does not do nicely in +compounds for handkerchief use.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Balm</span>, oil of Balm, called also oil of Melissa, is obtained by +distilling the leaves of the <i>Melissa officinalis</i> with water; it comes +from the still tap with the condensed <a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>steam or water, from which it is +separated with the tap funnel. But it is very little used in perfumery, +if we except its combination in <i>Aqua di Argento</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Balsam.</span>—Under this title there are two or three substances +used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of +storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the +<i>Myroxylon peruiferum</i>; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is +also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter +is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like +benzoin.</p> + +<p>Balsam of Tolu flows from the <i>Toluifera balsammum</i>. It resembles common +resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like +brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being +soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this +respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of +an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very +useful, though not so much used as they might be.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"<span class="smcap">Ulex</span> has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently +adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he +pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when +the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving +sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid, +if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams, +blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is +adulterated with common resin."—<i>Archives der Pharmacie</i>.</p></div> + +<p>Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same +manner, and possessing similar <a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>properties, with a slight variation of +odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above.</p> + +<p>They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the +trees that produce them are indigenous.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bay</span>, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of +laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation +from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much +used.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bergamot.</span>—This most useful perfume is procured from the +<i>Citrus Bergamia</i>, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a +soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and +good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age, +especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy +from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air, +and acquires a turpentine smell.</p> + +<p>It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar, +and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly +deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all +perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled.</p> + +<p>When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to +their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no +other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented +soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four +ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of +bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though <a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>well +covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading +ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see <span class="smcap">Bouquets</span>).</p> +<p><a name="styrax" id="styrax"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 304px;"> +<img src="images/image044.png" width="304" height="391" alt="Styrax Benzoin." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Styrax Benzoin.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Benzoin</span>, also called Benjamin.—This is a very useful substance +to perfumers. It exudes from the <i>Styrax benzoin</i> by wounding the tree, +and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from +Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter +place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being +interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds. +When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily +condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is +called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic +acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is +derived.</p> + +<p>The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good <a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>basis for a +bouquet.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a +perfume made with an essential oil in spirit.</p> + +<p>The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles +(see <span class="smcap">Pastilles</span>), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla +pomade (see <span class="smcap">Pomatums</span>).</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Caraway.</span>—This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation +from the seeds of the <i>Carum carui</i>. It has a very pleasant smell, quite +familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap, +for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the +continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with +oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a +similar way to cloves (see <span class="smcap">Cloves</span>). If caraway seeds are +ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see +<span class="smcap">Sachets</span>).</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cascarilla.</span>—The bark is used in the formation of pastilles, +and also enters into the composition known as <i>Eau à Bruler</i>, for +perfuming apartments, to which we refer.</p> + +<p>The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and +that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The <i>Cascarilla gratissimus</i> +is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are +gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both +the <i>C. fragrans</i> and <i>C. fragilis</i> are odoriferous. It behooves +perfumers, therefore, <a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain +these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation.</p> + +<p>Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but +it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cassia.</span>—The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling +the outer bark of the <i>Cinnamomum cassia</i>. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather +more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color; +in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is +principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military +soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it +therefore finds no place for handkerchief use.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cassie.—</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The short narcissus and fair daffodil,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Pansies to please the sight, and <i>cassie</i> sweet to swell."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Dryden's</span> <i>Virgil</i>.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the +best handkerchief bouquets.</p> +<p><a name="Acacia" id="Acacia"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 524px;"> +<img src="images/image046.png" width="524" height="237" alt="Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.</span> +</div> + +<p>When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather +sickly sweet.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>It is procured by maceration from the <i>Acacia farnesiana</i>. The purified +fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for +several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight +or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many +flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in +a liquid state.</p> + +<p>After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient +only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing +for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The +<i>Huile de Cassie</i>, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar +manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond +oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a +solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral +fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented +pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that +belongs to the same genus as the <i>A. farnesiana</i>, and which grows most +luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle +plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers, +&c.</p> + +<p>To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best +quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best +rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has +digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw +from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich +flowery <a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this +process—<i>maceration</i>, or, as it may be called, cold <i>infusion</i>, give a +more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely +dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit; +moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute +quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c., +it is the only practical mode of proceeding.</p> + +<p>In this, and all other similar cases, the pomatum must be cut up into +very small pieces, after the domestic manner of "chopping suet," prior +to its being infused in the alcohol. The action of the mixture is simply +a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body +by the superior attraction, or affinity, as the chemists say, of the +spirits of wine, in which it freely dissolves.</p> + +<p>The major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off the pomatum +without trouble, but it still retains a portion in the interstices, +which requires time to drain away, and this must be assisted by placing +the pomatum in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to +collect the remainder. Finally, all the pomatum, which is now called +<i>washed pomatum</i>, is to be put into a tin, which tin must be set into +hot water, for the purpose of melting its contents; when the pomatum +thus becomes liquefied, any extract that is still in it rises to the +surface, and can be skimmed off, or when the pomatum becomes cold it can +be poured from it.</p> + +<p>The washed pomatum is preserved for use in the <a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>manufacture of dressing +for the hair, for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted, on +account of the purity of the grease from which it was originally +prepared, but more particularly on account of a certain portion of odor +which it still retains; and were it not used up in this way, it would be +advisable to put it for a second infusion in spirit, and thus a weaker +extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles.</p> + +<p>I cannot leave cassie without recommending it more especially to the +notice of perfumers and druggists, as an article well adapted for the +purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades +for the hair. When diluted with other odors, it imparts to the whole +such a true flowery fragrance, that it is the admiration of all who +smell it, and has not a little contributed to the great sale which +certain proprietary articles have attained.</p> + +<p>We caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with cassia, which +has a totally different odor. See <span class="smcap">Acacia Pomade</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cedar Wood</span> now and then finds a place in a perfumer's +warehouse; when ground, it does well to form a body for sachet powder. +Slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting lamps, because +while burning an agreeable odor is evolved; some people use it also, in +this condition, distributed among clothes in drawers to "prevent moth." +On distillation it yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant.</p> + +<p>Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use it extensively for scenting soap.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>Lebanon Cedar Wood</span>. (<i>For the Handkerchief.</i>)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cedar,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit rose trip,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>The tincture smells agreeably of the wood, from which it can readily be +made. Its crimson color, however, prohibits it from being used for the +handkerchief. It forms an excellent tincture for the teeth, and is the +basis of the celebrated French dentifrice "eau Botot."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cedrat</span>.—This perfume is procured from the rind of the citron +fruit (<i>Citrus medica</i>), both by distillation and expression; it has a +very beautiful lemony odor, and is much admired. It is principally used +in the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief, being too expensive +for perfuming grease or soap. What is called extract of cedrat is made +by dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in one +pint of spirits, to which some perfumers add half an ounce of bergamot.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cinnamon</span>.—Several species of the plant <i>Laurus cinnamomum</i> +yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be +derived from <i>China Amomum</i>, the bark being one of the most valued +spices of the East. Perfumers use both the bark and the oil, which is +obtained by distillation from it. The ground bark enters into the +composition of some pastilles, tooth powders, and sachets. The essential +oil of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from Ceylon; it +is exceedingly powerful, and must <a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>be used sparingly. In such compounds +as cloves answer, so will cinnamon.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Citron</span>.—On distilling the flowers of the <i>Citrus medica</i>, a +very fragrant oil is procured, which is a species of neroli, and is +principally consumed by the manufacturers of eau de Cologne.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Citronella</span>.—Under this name there is an oil in the market, +chiefly derived from Ceylon and the East Indies; its true origin we are +unable to decide; in odor it somewhat resembles citron fruit, but is +very inferior. Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of the +<i>Andropogon</i> genus. Being cheap, it is extensively used for perfuming +soap. What is now extensively sold as "honey" soap, is a fine yellow +soap slightly perfumed with this oil. Some few use it for scenting +grease, but it is not much admired in that way.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cloves</span>.—Every part of the clove plant (<i>Caryophyllus +aromaticus</i>) abounds with aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and +plentiful in the unexpanded <a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>flower-bud, which are the cloves of +commerce. Cloves have been brought into the European market for more +than 2000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other islands +in the China seas. "The average annual crop of cloves," says Burnett, +"is, from each tree, 2 or 2-1/2 lbs., but a fine tree has been known to +yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a single season, and as 5000 cloves only +weigh one pound, there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this +single tree."</p> +<p><a name="Clove" id="Clove"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;"> +<img src="images/image051.png" width="355" height="322" alt="Clove." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Clove.</span> +</div> + +<p>The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh +flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, +which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few +essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of +cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be +seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a +leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences, +Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least +expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the +proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Dill</span>.—Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it +is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more +used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is +rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill +water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the +complexion."</p> + +<p>The oil of dill is procured by submitting the <a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>crushed fruit of dill +(<i>Anethum graveolens</i>) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the +surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in +the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit +for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small +proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Eglantine</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sweet Briar</span>, notwithstanding what the +poet Robert Noyes says—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">"In fragrance yields,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name. +This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of +collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more +or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is +discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a +species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Imitation Eglantine, or Essence of Sweet Briar.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil),</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Elder</span> (<i>Sambucus nigra</i>).—The only preparation of this plant +for its odorous quality used by the perfumer, is elder-flower water. To +prepare it, take <a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and +introduce it to the still with four gallons of water; the first three +gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use; one ounce +of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of "water" distilled, +and when bottled it is ready for sale. Other preparations of elder +flowers are made, such as milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which +will be found in their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new +materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter, which are +likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling +qualities of the ingredients; of these we would call attention more +particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers, and to elder oil for the +hair.</p> + +<p>The preparations of elder-flowers, if made according to the +Pharmacopœias, are perfectly useless, as the forms therein given show +an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fennel</span> (<i>Fœniculum vulgare</i>).—Dried fennel herb, when +ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders. The oil of +fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils, may be used for +perfuming soap. It is procurable by distillation.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Flag</span> (<span class="smcap">Sweet</span>) (<i>Acorus calamus</i>).—The roots, or +rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling +oil; 1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil. It can be +used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, +soap, or for extracts, but requires other sweet oils with it to hide its +origin.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>Geranium</span> (<i>Pelargonium odoratissimum</i>, rose-leaf +geranium).—The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very +agreeable rosy-smelling oil, so much resembling real otto of rose, that +it is used very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil, +and is grown very largely for that express purpose. It is principally +cultivated in the south of France, and in Turkey (by the rose-growers). +In the department of Seine-et-Oise, at Montfort-Lamaury, in France, +hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing. 1 cwt. of leaves will yield +about two ounces of essential oil. Used to adulterate otto of rose, it +is in its turn itself adulterated with ginger grass oil (<i>Andropogon</i>), +and thus formerly was very difficult to procure genuine; on account of +the increased cultivation of the plant, it is now, however, easily +procured pure. Some samples are greenish-colored, others nearly white, +but we prefer that of a brownish tint.</p> + +<p>When dissolved in rectified spirit, in the proportion of about six +ounces to the gallon, it forms the "extract of rose-leaf geranium" of +the shops. A word or two is necessary about the oil of geranium, as much +confusion is created respecting it, in consequence of there being an oil +under the name of geranium, but which in reality is derived from the +<i>Andropogon nardus</i>, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andropogon +(geranium!) oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium, and hence +we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf +geranium oil fetches about 6<i>s.</i> per ounce, while the andropogon oil is +not worth more than that <a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>sum per pound. And we may observe here, that +the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale +perfumers, as from the nature of their trade they have a better +knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker. +On account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium, +it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to +give the public great satisfaction.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Heliotrope.</span>—Either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified +fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the <i>Heliotrope +Peruvianum</i> or <i>H. grandiflorum</i>. Exquisite as the odor of this plant +is, at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer. +This we think rather a singular fact, especially as the perfume is +powerful and the flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some +experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this +country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which +would most likely lead to successful results. For a small trial in the +first instance, which can be managed by any person having the run of a +garden, we will say, procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use, +which melts the material by the boiling of water; it is in fact a +water-bath, in chemical parlance—one capable of holding a pound or more +of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain half +a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it through a close +hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to drop +into cold spring water; <a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>this operation granulates and washes the blood +and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly inodorous +grease, the melting and granulation process may be repeated three or +four times; finally, remelt the fat and cast it into a pan to free it +from adhering water.</p> + +<p>Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in such +a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will keep +it warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you +can, and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time +strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this +operation for a week: we expect at the last straining the fat will have +become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed <i>Pomade +à la Heliotrope</i>.</p> + +<p>The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding, is now to be +put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered with spirits as highly +rectified as can be obtained, and left to digest for a week or more; the +spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed; in reality it will be +<i>extract of Heliotrope</i>, a delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The +rationale of the operation is simple enough: the fat body has a strong +affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of the +flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes itself +perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a much greater +attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the former, +therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense <a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>of the latter. The same +experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat.</p> + +<p>The experiment here hinted at, may be varied with any flowers that there +are to spare; indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was +mentioned above, an excellent <i>millefleur</i> pomade and essence might be +produced from every conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive +another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of +form and color.</p> + +<p>We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments +of this nature will not be deterred by saying, "they are not worth the +trouble." It must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the +London perfumery warehouses 16<i>s.</i> per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine +<i>flowery-scented</i> pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the +experiments are successful they should be published, as then we may hope +to establish a new and important manufacture in this country. But we are +digressing.</p> + +<p>The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla, and +is well imitated thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Heliotrope.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " French rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " orange-flower pomatum,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essential oil of almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>A preparation made in this manner under the name <a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>of <i>Extract de +Heliotrope</i> is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and +is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a +genuine extract of heliotrope.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Honeysuckle</span> or <span class="smcap">Woodbine</span>:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But well compensating her sickly looks<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With never-cloying odors."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>What the poet Cowper here says is quite true; nevertheless, it is a +flower that is not used in practical perfumery, though there is no +reason for abandoning it. The experiments suggested for obtaining the +odor of Heliotrope and Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable +to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good <span class="smcap">Imitation of Honeysuckle</span> +is made thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " violet "</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " tubereuse "</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " Tolu,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto neroli,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>The prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would probably be too +high to meet the demand of a retail druggist; in such cases it may be +diluted with rectified spirit to the extent "to make it pay," and will +yet be a nice perfume. The formula generally given herein for odors is +in anticipation that when bottled they will retail for at least +eighteen-pence <a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>the fluid ounce! which is the average price put on the +finest perfumery by the manufacturers of London and Paris.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hovenia.</span>—A perfume under this name is sold to a limited +extent, but if it did not smell better than the plant <i>Hovenia dulcis</i> +or <i>H. inequalis</i>, a native of Japan, it would not sell at all. The +article in the market is made thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto lemons,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-water. After +filtration it is ready for sale. When compounds of this kind do not +become bright by passing through blotting-paper, the addition of a +little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them. +The water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article +produced may be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be +better without that "universal friend."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Jasmine.</span>—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">"Luxuriant above all,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer. Its odor is +delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without comparison, and +as such cannot be imitated. When the flowers of the <i>Jasminum +odoratissimum</i><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a> are distilled, repeatedly using the water of +distillation over fresh flowers, the essential oil of jasmine may be +procured. It is, however, exceedingly rare, on account of the enormous +cost of production. There was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in +the Tunisian department of the Crystal Palace, the price of which was +9<i>l.</i> the fluid ounce! The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which +our name is derived.</p> + +<p>In the perfumer's laboratory, the method of obtaining the odor is by +absorption, or, as the French term it, <i>enfleurage</i>; that is, by +spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking +the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or +so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers—the grease absorbs +the odor. Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted +at as low a temperature as possible, and strained.</p> + +<p>Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in +the same way. Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben +(obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the <i>Moringa oleifera</i>) +are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times; +finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are +squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus produced is the <i>Huile +antique au jasmin</i> of the French houses.</p> + +<p>The "extract of jasmine" is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the +jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to remain together for a +fortnight at a summer heat. The best quality extract requires two +<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit. The same can be done with +the oil of jasmine. If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine +previously to being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be +shaken well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account of +its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface is +exposed to the spirit. After the extract is strained off, the "washed" +pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the composition of +pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any +of the "creams and balms," &c. &c., made up and scented with essential +oils; the one smells of the flower, the other "a nondescript."</p> +<p><a name="jasmine" id="jasmine"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 307px;"> +<img src="images/image062.png" width="307" height="341" alt="Jasmine." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Jasmine.</span> +</div> + +<p>The extract of jasmine enters into the composition <a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>of a great many of +the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold by the English and French +perfumers. Extract of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure, +but is one of those scents which, though very gratifying at first, +becomes what people call "sickly" after exposure to the oxidizing +influence of the air, but if judiciously mixed with other perfumes of an +opposite character is sure to please the most fastidious customer.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Jonquil</span>.—The scent of the jonquil is very beautiful; for +perfumery purposes it is however but little cultivated in comparison +with jasmine and tubereuse. It is prepared exactly as jasmine. The +Parisian perfumers sell a mixture which they call "extract of jonquil." +The plant, however, only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring, +giving it its name. The so-called jonquil is made thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of jasmine pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " tubereuse "</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>2 fluid ounces.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laurel</span>.—By distillation from the berries of the <i>Laurus +nobilis</i>, and from the leaves of the <i>Laurus cerasus</i>, an oil and +perfumed water are procurable of a very beautiful and fragrant +character. Commercially, however, it is disregarded, as from the +similarity of odor to the oil distilled from the bitter almond, it is +rarely, if ever, used by the perfumer, the latter being more economical.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lavender</span>.—The climate of England appears to be better adapted +for the perfect development of this <a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>fine old favorite perfume than any +other on the globe. "The ancients," says Burnett, "employed the flowers +and the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a sweet scent to +water in which they washed; hence the generic name of the plant, +<i>Lavandula</i>."</p> + +<p>Lavender is grown to an enormous extent at Mitcham, in Surrey, which is +the seat of its production, in a commercial point of view. Very large +quantities are also grown in France, but the fine odor of the British +produce realizes in the market four times the price of that of +Continental growth. Burnett says that the oil of <i>Lavandula spica</i> is +more pleasant than that derived from the other species, but this +statement must not mislead the purchaser to buy the French spike +lavender, as it is not worth a tenth of that derived from the <i>Lavandulæ +veræ</i>. Half-a-hundred weight of good lavender flowers yield, by +distillation, from 14 to 16 oz. of essential oil.</p> + +<p>All the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for perfuming +soaps and greases; but the best, that obtained from the Mitcham +lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender +water, but which, more properly, should be called essence or extract of +lavender, to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences +prepared with spirit.</p> + +<p>The number of formulæ published for making a liquid perfume of lavender +is almost endless, but the whole of them may be resolved into essence of +lavender, simple; essence of lavender, compound; and lavender water.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>There are two methods of making essence of lavender:—1. By distilling +a mixture of essential oil of lavender and rectified spirit; and the +other—2. By merely mixing the oil and the spirit together.</p> + +<p>The first process yields the finest quality: it is that which is adopted +by the firm of Smyth and Nephew, whose reputation for this article is +such that it gives a good character in foreign markets, especially +India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture. Lavender +essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by +mixture only always has a yellowish tint, which by age becomes darker +and resinous.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Smyth's Lavender.</span></h4> + +<p>To produce a very fine distillate, take—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of English Lavender,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit (60 over proof),</td><td align='left'>5 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix and distil five pints for sale. Such essence of lavender is +expensive, but at 10<i>s.</i> a pint of 14 oz! there <i>is</i> a margin for +profit. It not being convenient to the general dealer to sell distilled +lavender essence, the following form, by mixture, will produce a +first-rate article, and nearly as white as the above.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Lavender.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'>3-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>2 quarts.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The perfumer's retail price for such quality is 8<i>s.</i> per pint of 14 oz.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>Many perfumers and druggists in making lavender water or essence, use a +small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving its quality—a very +erroneous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly discolors.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Lavender Water.</span>—Take:</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>English oil of lavender,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit,</td><td align='left'>3 quarts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>Filter as above, and it is ready for sale.<br /> +</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Common Lavender Water.</span>—Same form as the above, substituting +French lavender for the British.</p> + +<p>Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, +will be given when we come to speak of compound perfumes, which will be +reserved until we have finished explaining the method of making the +simple essences.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lemon.</span>—This fine perfume is abstracted from the <i>Citrus +limonum</i>, by expression, from the rind of the fruit. The otto of lemons +in the market is principally from Messina, where there are hundreds of +acres of "lemon groves." Otto of lemons, like all the ottos of the +Citrus family, is rapidly prone to oxidation when in contact with air +and exposure to light; a high temperature is also detrimental, and as +such is the case it should be preserved in a cool cellar. Most of the +samples from the gas-heated shelves of the druggists' shops, are as much +like essence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons; rancid oil +of lemons may, in a great measure, be purified <a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>by agitation with warm +water and final decantation. When new and good, lemon otto may be freely +used in combination with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming +powders for the nursery. From its rapid oxidation, it should not be used +for perfuming grease, as it assists rather than otherwise all fats to +turn rancid; hence pomatums so perfumed will not keep well. In the +manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved in +spirit, in the proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of +spirit. There is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the +manufacture of Eau de Cologne; that Farina uses it is easily discovered +by adding a few drops of Liq. Ammoniæ fort. to half an ounce of his Eau +de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is thereby brought out in a +remarkable manner.</p> + +<p>Perhaps it is not out of place here to remark, that in attempts to +discover the composition of certain perfumes, we are greatly assisted by +the use of strong Liq. Ammoniæ. Certain of the essential oils combining +with the Ammonia, allow those which do not do so, if present in the +compound, to be smelt.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lemon Grass.</span>—According to Pereira, the otto in the market +under this name is derived from the <i>Andropogon schœnanthus</i> a +species of grass which grows abundantly in India. It is cultivated to a +large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which +from the plant is easily procured by distillation. Lemon grass otto, or, +as it is sometimes called, oil of verbena, on account of its similarity +<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>of odor to that favorite plant, is imported into this country in old +English porter and stout bottles. It is very powerful, well adapted for +perfuming soaps and greases, but its principal consumption is in the +manufacture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively low +price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the lemon grass +otto may be much more used than at present, with considerable advantage +to the retail shopkeeper.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lilac</span>.—The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub +is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of +maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the +pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as +previously described for cassie; the odor so much resembles tubereuse, +as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter, the demand for +tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply. A beautiful +<span class="smcap">Imitation of Essence of White Lilac</span> may be compounded thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " of orange-flower pomade,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of civet,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the +handkerchief.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lily</span>.—The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the +inspired writer, to "consider the lilies of the field." Rich as they are +in odor, they are not cultivated for their perfume. If lilies are thrown +into <a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>oil of sweet almonds, or ben oil, they impart to it their sweet +smell; but to obtain anything like fragrance, the infusion must be +repeated a dozen times with the same oil, using fresh flowers for each +infusion, after standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal +quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odor to the alcohol, and +thus extract of lilies <i>may</i> be made. But how it <i>is</i> made is thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Imitation "Lily of the Valley."</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It +is a perfume that is very much admired.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mace.</span>—Ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those +scented powders called Sachets. A strong-smelling essential oil may be +procured from it by distillation, but it is rarely used.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Magnolia.</span>—The perfume of this flower is superb; practically, +however, it is of little use to the manufacturer, the large size of the +blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used, but a +very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under, and is that which +is found in the perfumers' shops of London and Paris.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>Imitation "Essence of Magnolia."</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " tubereuse pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " violet pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essential oil of citron,</td><td align='left'>3 drs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " almonds,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Marjoram</span>.—The otto procured by distilling <i>Origanum majorana</i>, +commonly called oil of oringeat by the French, is exceedingly powerful, +and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species +of thyme, of which the marjoram is one. One hundred weight of the dry +herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. Oringeat oil is extensively +used for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It is the +chief ingredient used by Gelle Frères, of Paris, for scenting their +"Tablet Monstre Soap," so common in the London shops.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Meadow Sweet</span>.—A sweet-smelling otto can be produced by +distilling the <i>Spiræa ulmaria</i>, but it is not used by perfumers.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Melissa</span>. See <span class="smcap">Balm</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mignonette</span>.—But for the exquisite odor of this little flower, +it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed. Sweet as it is in +its natural state, and prolific in odor, we are not able to maintain its +characteristic smell as an essence. Like many others, during separation +from the plant, the fragrance is more or less modified; though not +perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers. To give +it that sweetness which it appears to want, a <a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>certain quantity of +violet is added to bring it up to the market odor.</p> + +<p>As this plant is so very prolific in odor, we think something might be +done with it in England, especially as it flourishes as well in this +country as in France; and we desire to see Flower Farms and organized +Perfumatories established in the British Isles, for the extraction of +essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are +indigenous, or that thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides +opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it +would give healthy employment to many women and children. Open air +employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the +stamina of the future generation; for it cannot be denied that our +factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical +condition of the human family.</p> + +<p>To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette, or, as it is +more often sold under the name of Extrait de Rézéda, is prepared by +infusing the rézéda pomade in rectified spirit, in the proportion of one +pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together +for a fortnight, when the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce +of extrait d'ambré is added to every pint. This is done to give +permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, and does not in any way +alter its odor.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Miribane.</span>—The French name for artificial essence of almond +(see <span class="smcap">Almond</span>).</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mint.</span>—All the <i>Menthidæ</i> yield fragrant ottos by +<a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>distillation. The otto of the spear-mint (<i>M. viridis</i>) is exceedingly +powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in conjunction with +other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture +of mouth-washes and dental liquids. The leading ingredient in the +celebrated "eau Botot" is oil of peppermint in alcohol. A good imitation +may be made thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Botot.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of cedar wood,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " myrrh,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of peppermint,</td><td align='left'>1/2 dr.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " spear mint,</td><td align='left'>1/4 dr.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " roses,</td><td align='left'>10 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main +object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any +other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must +be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as +for a dentifrice.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Myrtle</span>.—A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling +both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will +yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of +myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is +very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Imitation Essence of Myrtle.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " roses</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and +is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and +may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Neroli, or Orange-flower.</span>—Two distinct odors are procurable +from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for +procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a +great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of +inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the +orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose—probably to +all flowers.</p> + +<p>When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by +infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength +and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower +made in the same grease.</p> + +<p>By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the +proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of +spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de +fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume +surpassed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so +much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the +scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar <a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>flowery odor +of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a +pure state, but slightly modified with other <i>extraits</i> passes for +"sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance.</p> +<p><a name="Orange" id="Orange"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 305px;"> +<img src="images/image074.png" width="305" height="336" alt="Orange." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Orange.</span> +</div> + +<p>Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto +of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli +procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be +the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality, +"neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the <i>Citrus +bigaradia</i>, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered +inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, <a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>obtained by +distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different +species of the citrus.</p> + +<p>The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the +manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit +grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de +neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified +spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the +manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the +extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by +maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from +another plant, yet in theory both these <i>extraits</i> are but alcoholic +solutions of the otto of the flower.</p> + +<p>The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed +from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de +fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for +the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, +and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price. +(See <i>Syringa</i>.)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nutmeg</span>.—The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. +Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it +is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used +advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent +bags.—See "Sachet's Powders."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Olibanum</span> is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this +country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly +interesting as being one of <a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>those odoriferous bodies of which frequent +mention is made in the Holy volume.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a></p> + +<p>"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in +the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the +Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the +altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service."</p> + +<p>Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, +probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated +with the benzoic acid it contains.</p> + +<p>For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum +to 1 gallon of the spirit.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Orange.</span>—Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the +odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of +what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more +frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,—a name, however, which we +cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants."</p> + +<p>The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, +is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in +order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.</p> + +<p>Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of +a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant +illumination.</p> + +<p>It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds +many admirers.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau +de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Lisbon Water.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof),</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of orange peel,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon peel,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>This is a form for</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Portugal.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit (60 over proof),</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essential oil of orange peel,</td><td align='left'>6 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon peel,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon grass,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet +bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the +ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the +mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be <i>spirit rinsed</i> prior to being +filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences +of orange or lemon peel.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Orris</span>, properly <span class="smcap">Iris</span>.—The dried rhizome of <i>Iris +florentina</i> has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better +comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, +exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when +such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless <a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>the perfume of iris +root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a +perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used +in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that +celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or, +as the perfumers call it,</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Orris,</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Take orris root, crushed,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirits,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to +take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent +loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press. +This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated +bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone, +because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand +public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very +great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of +strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and +steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire +inflammable bodies.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Palm.</span>—The odor of palm oil—the fat oil of commerce—is due to +a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the +odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the +tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and +is not likely to be brought into use, <a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>though several attempts have been +made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have +failed from bad seasons.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Patchouly</span>.—<i>Pogostemon patchouly</i> (<span class="smcap">Lindley</span>), +<i>Plectranthus crassifolius</i> (<span class="smcap">Burnett</span>), is an herb that grows +extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in +its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy.</p> +<p><a name="patchouly" id="patchouly"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;"> +<img src="images/image079.png" width="343" height="484" alt="Patchouly." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Patchouly.</span> +</div> + +<p>The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and +stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will +yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, +and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it +resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of +any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in <a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>the proportion +of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other +bodies.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Patchouly.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of patchouly,</td><td align='left'>1-1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the +perfumers' shops of Paris and London. Although few perfumes have had +such a fashionable run, yet when smelled at in its pure state, it is far +from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to +Lycopodium, or, as some say, it smells of "old coats."</p> + +<p>The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due to some +admixture of this herb.</p> + +<p>The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in Europe is curious. A +few years ago real Indian shawls bore an extravagant price, and +purchasers could always distinguish them by their odor; in fact, they +were perfumed with patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time +successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor.</p> + +<p>At length they discovered the secret, and began to import the plant to +perfume articles of their make, and thus palm off homespun shawls as +real Indian! From this origin the perfumers have brought it into use. +Patchouly herb is extensively used for scenting drawers in which linen +is kept; for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put them +into muslin sacks, covered with silk, after the manner of the +old-fashioned <a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>lavender-bag. In this state it is very efficacious in +preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths. Several +combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes for "bouquets and +nosegays."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pea</span> (<span class="smcap">Sweet</span>).—A very fine odor may be abstracted from +the flowers of the chick-vetch by maceration in any fatty body, and then +digesting the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however, rarely +manufactured, because a very close</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Imitation of the Essence of Sweet Pea.</span></h4> + +<p>can be prepared thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of tuberose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose from pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Scents, like sounds, appear to influence the olfactory nerve in certain +definite degrees. There is, as it were, an octave of odors like an +octave in music; certain odors coincide, like the keys of an instrument. +Such as almond, heliotrope, vanilla, and orange-blossoms blend together, +each producing different degrees of a nearly similar impression. Again, +we have citron, lemon, orange-peel, and verbena, forming a higher octave +of smells, which blend in a similar manner. The metaphor is completed by +what we are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and rose geranium +for the half note; petty grain, neroli, a black key, followed by fleur +d'orange. Then we have patchouli, sandal-wood, and vitivert, and many +others running into each other.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper +proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine.</p> + +<p>The odor of some flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost +induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not +evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the +air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in +composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as +camphor, turpentine, rosemary. Hence we may presume that chemistry will +sooner or later produce one from the other, for with many it is merely +an atom of water or an atom of oxygen that causes the difference. It +would be a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rosemary, or +from the rose geranium oil, and theory indicates its possibility.</p> + +<p>The essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains a good deal of +air-oxygen, and but a very little of the oil, spontaneously passes into +another odoriferous body, benzoic acid; which is seen in crystals to +form over the dry parts of the flask. This is a natural illustration of +this idea. In giving the recipe for "sweet pea" as above, we form it +with the impression that its odor resembles the orange-blossom, which +similarity is approached nearer by the addition of the rose and +tuberose.</p> + +<p>The vanilla is used merely to give permanence to the scent on the +handkerchief, and this latter body is chosen in preference to extract of +musk or ambergris, which would answer the same purpose of giving +permanence <a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>to the more volatile ingredients; because the vanilla +strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom, and +thus no new idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume +dies off from the handkerchief. When perfumes are not mixed upon this +principle, then we hear that such and such a perfume becomes "sickly" or +"faint" after they have been on the handkerchief a short time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pine-apple.</span>—Both Dr. Hoffman and Dr. Lyon Playfair have fallen +into some error in their inferences with regard to the application of +this odor in perfumery. After various practical experiments conducted in +a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so +applied, simply because when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at, +the vapor produces an involuntary action of the larynx, producing cough, +when exceedingly dilute. Even in the infinitesimal portions it still +produces disagreeable irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged, +such as is expected if used upon a handkerchief, is followed by intense +headache. It is obvious, therefore, that the legitimate use of the +essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with benefit to +the manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the confectioner as a +flavoring material. What we have here said refers to the artificial +essence of pine-apple, or butyrate of ethyloxide, which, if very much +diluted with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and hence its +name; but how far the same observations are applicable to the true +essential oil from the fruit <a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>or epidermis of the pine-apple, remains to +be seen <i>when</i> we procure it. As the West Indian pine-apples are now +coming freely into the market, the day is probably not distant when +demonstrative experiments can be tried; but hitherto it must be +remembered our experiments have only been performed with a body +<i>resembling in smell</i> the true essential oil of the fruit. The physical +action of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to prevent +their application in perfumery, however useful in confectionary, which +it is understood has to deal with another of the senses,—not of smell, +but of taste. The commercial "essence of pine-apple," or "pine-apple +oil," and "jargonelle pear-oil," are admitted only to be <i>labelled</i> +such, but really are certain organic acid ethers. For the present, then, +perfumers must only look on these bodies as so many lines in the "Poetry +of Science," which, for the present, are without practical application +in his art.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pink.</span>—<i>Dianthus Caryophyllus.</i>—The clove pink emits a most +fragrant odor, "especially at night," says Darwin.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The lavish pink that scents the garden round,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>is not, however, at present applied in perfumery, except in name.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Imitation Essence of Clove Pink.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " de cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of cloves,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the +flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rhodium</span>.—When rose-wood, the lignum of the <i>Convolvulus +scoparius</i>, is distilled, a sweet-smelling oil is procured, resembling +in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose, and hence its name. At +one time, that is, prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf geranium, +the distillates from rose-wood and from the root of the <i>Genista +canariensis</i> (Canary-rose-wood), were principally drawn for the +adulteration of real otto of roses, but as the geranium oil answers so +much better, the oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse, hence its +comparative scarcity in the market at the present day, though our +grandfathers knew it well. One cwt. of wood yields about three ounces of +oil.</p> + +<p>Ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manufacture of sachet +powders for perfuming the wardrobe.</p> + +<p>The French have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood, under the idea +that the plant called jacaranda by the Brazilians yields it, which is +not the case; "the same word has perhaps been the origin of +palisander—palixander, badly written."—<i>Burnett</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rose.—</span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Go, crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And waft its spoils, a sweet perfume,<br /></span> +<span class="i6">In incense to the skies."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Ogilvie.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This queen of the garden loses not its diadem in <a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>the perfuming world. +The oil of roses, or, as it is commonly called, the otto, or attar, of +roses, is procured (contrary to so many opposite statements) simply by +distilling the roses with water.</p> + +<p>The otto, or attar, of rose of commerce is derived from the <i>Rosa +centifolia provincialis</i>. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople +(Turkey in Europe); at Broussa, now famous as the residence of +Abd-el-Kader; and at Uslak (Turkey in Asia); also at Ghazepore, in +India.</p> + +<p>The cultivators in Turkey are principally the Christian inhabitants of +the low countries of the Balkan, between Selimno, and Carloya, as far as +Philippopolis, in Bulgaria, about 200 miles from Constantinople. In good +seasons, this district yields 75,000 ounces; but in bad seasons only +20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar are obtained. It is estimated that it +requires at least 2000 rose blooms to yield one drachm of otto.</p> + +<p>The otto slightly varies in odor from different districts; many places +furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than others, and, +therefore, this is not a sure guide of purity, though many consider it +such. That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1851, as "from +Ghazepore," in India, obtained the prize.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Attar of roses, made in Cashmere, is considered superior to any +other; a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the +flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty. +A large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run +off into an open vessel, placed over night in a cool running +stream, and in the morning the oil is found floating on the +surface in minute specks, which are taken off very <a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>carefully by +means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green +color, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature +about that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of +leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar."—<i>Indian +Encyclopædia.</i></p></div> + +<p>Pure otto of roses, from its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers; +when diluted, however, there is nothing to equal it in odor, especially +if mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the +esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very +fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto.</p> + +<p>The finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at Grasse, in France. +Here the flowers are not treated for the otto, but are subjected to the +process of maceration in fat, or in oil, as described under jasmine, +heliotrope, &c.</p> + +<p>The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say 8 lbs. of No. 24 +Pomade to one gallon of spirit, yields an esprit de rose of the first +order, very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to +spirit. It is difficult to account for this difference, but it is +sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor. See the article on +fleur d'orange and neroli (pp. 77, 78), which have similar qualities, +previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French rose +pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer; he reserves this to form +part of his <i>recherche</i> bouquets.</p> + +<p>Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it now for some +time to country practitioners, for them to form extemporaneous +rose-water, which <a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>it does to great perfection. Roses are cultivated to +a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use, +to make rose-water. In the season when successive crops can be got, +which is about the end of June, or the early part of July, they are +gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to town in sacks. When they +arrive, they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor: otherwise, if +left in a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as +to be quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs +oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered +roses.</p> + +<p>To preserve these roses, the London perfumers immediately pickle them; +for this purpose, the leaves are separated from the stalks, and to every +bushel of flowers, equal to about six pounds' weight, one pound of +common salt is thoroughly rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water existing +in the petals, and rapidly becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty +mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way they will keep +almost any length of time, without the fragrance being seriously +injured. A good rose-water can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of +pickled roses, and 2-1/2 gallons of water. "Draw" off two gallons; the +product will be the double-distilled rose-water of the shops. The +rose-water that is imported from the South of France is, however, very +superior in odor to any that can be produced here. As it is a residuary +product of the distillation of roses for procuring the attar, it has a +richness of aroma which <a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>appears to be inimitable with English-grown +roses. There are four modifications of essence of rose for the +handkerchief, which are the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of the perfumer's art. They +are,—esprit de rose triple, essence of white of roses, essence of tea +rose, and essence of moss rose. The following are the recipes for their +formation:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Esprit de Rose Triple.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified alcohol,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix at a summer heat; in the course of a quarter of an hour the whole of +the otto is dissolved, and is then ready for bottling and sale. In the +winter season beautiful crystals of the otto—if it is good—appear +disseminated through the esprit.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Moss Rose.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract from French Rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extracts fleur d'orange pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " of ambergris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight; then filter, +if requisite, and it is ready for sale.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of White Rose.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose from pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " triple,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extracts of jasmine</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " patchouly,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>Essence of Tea Rose.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " triple,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rose-leaf geranium,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " sandal-wood,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rosemary.</span>—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"There's rosemary, that's for remembrance."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Shakspeare.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>By distilling the <i>Rosmarinus officinalis</i> a thin limpid otto is +procured, having the characteristic odor of the plant, which is more +aromatic than sweet. One cwt. of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four +ounces of oil. Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery, +especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap. Eau de +Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary +water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the composition of</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Hungary Water.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified alcohol,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of English rosemary,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon-peel,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " balm (<i>Melissa</i>),</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " mint,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to +take its name from one of the <a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>queens of Hungary, who is reported to +have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of +seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while +speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their +handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they +contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant +being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief +wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can +understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are +universally said to be "so refreshing!"</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sage</span>.—A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation +from any of the <i>Salvieæ</i>. It is rarely used, but is nevertheless very +valuable in combination for scenting soap.</p> + +<p>Dried sage-leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Santal</span>.—<i>Santalum album</i>.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The santal tree perfumes, when riven,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The axe that laid it low." <span class="smcap">Cameron.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This is an old favorite with the lovers of scent; it is the wood that +possesses the odor. The finest santal-wood grows in the island of Timor, +and the Santal-wood Islands, where it is extensively cultivated for the +Chinese market. In the religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos, +and Chinese, santal-wood is burned, by way of incense, to an extent +almost beyond belief. The <i>Santala</i> grew plentifully in China, but <a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>the +continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost exterminated the plant +from the Celestial Empire; and such is the demand, that it is about to +be cultivated in Western Australia, in the expectation of a profitable +return, which we doubt not will be realized; England alone would consume +tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other +perfuming substances. The otto which exists in the santal-wood is +readily procured by distillation; 1 cwt. of good wood will yield about +30 ounces of otto.</p> +<p><a name="santal" id="santal"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 346px;"> +<img src="images/image092.png" width="346" height="440" alt="Santal-wood." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Santal-wood.</span> +</div> + +<p>The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every +organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for +santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes, +<a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a +valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East.</p> + +<p>The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others +oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color. +When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many +of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the +formulæ of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is +called</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extrait de Bois de Santal.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirits,</td><td align='left'>7 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essential oil, <i>i.e.</i>otto, of santal,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>All those <span class="smcap">Extracts</span>, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are +nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil +used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate <i>odeur</i> to a lady's +<i>mouchoir</i>, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an +object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to +sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a +perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures +are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides +the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter, +which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously +staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this +reason this latter <a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>method should never be adopted, except for use upon +silk handkerchiefs.</p> + +<p>The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the +cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of +roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose.</p> + +<p>By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel."</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sassafras.</span>—Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of +the wood of the <i>Laurus sassafras</i> in the manufacture of hair-washes and +other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell +than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The <i>Eau +Athenienne</i>, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but +is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Spike.</span>—French oil of lavender, which is procured from the +<i>Lavandula spica</i>, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Storax</span> and <span class="smcap">Tolu</span> are used in perfumery in the same way +as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of +tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very +volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last +longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any +perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add +to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as +extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris, +vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion +as to which of <a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course, +those which are most compatible with the odor he is making.</p> + +<p>The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance, +renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which +is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential +oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, +together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a +handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the +alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it +contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were, +by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be +made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume +"dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its +composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having +the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and +patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly, +the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have +disappeared.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Syringa</span>.—The flowers of the <i>Philadelphus coronarius</i>, or +common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the +orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed +"mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, à la +fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than +fine suet perfumed <a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>with syringa blossoms by the maceration process. +Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of +what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Thyme.</span>—All the different species of thyme, but more +particularly the lemon thyme, the <i>Thymus serpyllum</i>, as well as the +marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are +extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though +well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other +combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an +herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a +consequence, they are not considered <i>recherché</i>.</p> + +<p>When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into +the composition of sachet powders.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tonquin</span>, or <span class="smcap">Tonka</span>.—The seeds of the <i>Dipterix +odorata</i> are the tonquin or <i>coumarouma</i> beans of commerce. When fresh +they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay. +The <i>Anthoxanthum odoratum</i>, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which +new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant +principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal +grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly +aromatic when severed from the parent stock.</p> + +<p>Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing, +when fresh, a fragrant volatile <a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>otto (to which their odor is +principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral +principal—<i>Coumarin</i>. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground, +they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by +infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a +thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength +it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is +"snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use +in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust.</p> +<p><a name="tonquin" id="tonquin"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 338px;"> +<img src="images/image097.png" width="338" height="430" alt="Tonquin." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Tonquin.</span> +</div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Tonquin</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin beans,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this maceration they are +still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as <span class="smcap">Pot +Pourri</span>,<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a> <span class="smcap">Olla Podria</span>, &c. The extract of tonquin, like +extract of orris and extract of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only +used in the manufacture of compound perfumes. It is the leading +ingredient in <i>Bouquet du Champ</i>—The field Bouquet—the great +resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders it a favorite +to the lovers of the pastoral.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tuberose</span>.—One of the most exquisite odors with which we are +acquainted is obtained by <i>enfleurage</i> from the tuberose flower. It is, +as it were, a nosegay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful +perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close; +consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet +essences.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Tuberose</span>.</h4> + +<p>Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be +placed into 1 gallon of the best rectified spirit. After standing for +three weeks or a month at summer heat, and with frequent agitation, it +is fit to draw off, and being strained through cotton wool, is ready +either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets.</p> + +<p>This essence of tuberose, like that of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile, +and if sold in its pure state quickly "flies off" the handkerchief; it +is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this +purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris, or half an +ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint of tuberose.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vanilla</span>.—The pod or bean of the <i>Vanilla planifolia</i><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a> yields a +perfume of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it +becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing +properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it in +composition. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this, when +viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light.</p> +<p><a name="vanilla" id="vanilla"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 483px;"> +<img src="images/image099.png" width="483" height="307" alt="Vanilla." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Vanilla.</span> +</div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Vanilla</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla pods,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut +them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with +occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will +only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is +required. In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed +in the manufacture <a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they +are called.</p> + +<p>Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of +hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla +with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards +filtering.</p> + +<p>We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and +confectioners for flavoring.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Verbena</span>, or <span class="smcap">Vervaine</span>.—The scented species of this +plant, the lemon verbena, <i>Aloysia citriodora</i> (Hooker), gives one of +the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as +yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the +plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be +crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at +the plant.</p> + +<p>The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with +water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the +manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing +the otto of lemon grass, <i>Andropogon schœnanthus</i>, with rectified +spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The +following is a good form for making the</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Verbena</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon grass,</td><td align='left'>3 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon peel,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orange peel,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit +for sale.</p> + +<p>Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the +same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus—it is sold under +the title</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extrait de Verveine</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of orange peel,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon peel,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " citron,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon grass,</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>7 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>7 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant +perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief. +It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and +the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is +sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great +many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court +Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, +with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these +preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the +citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape +spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent +for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in +English. Whether this be due <a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>to the oil of wine (œanthic ether) or +not we cannot say, but think it is so.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Violet</span>.—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The forward violet thus did I chide:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">If not from my love's breath?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The perfume exhaled by the <i>Viola odorata</i> is so universally admired, +that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand +for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing +perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is +difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of +trade.</p> + +<p>Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the +West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the +affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from +whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive +at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true +smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a +very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with +the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true +impression. Burnett says that the plant <i>Viola tricolor</i> (heart's ease), +when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore, +contains prussic acid.</p> + +<p>The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently +contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated +as the<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a> "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare.</p> + +<p>For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in +combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the +methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other +flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, +orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by <i>enfleurage</i>, the former +method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is +required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol.</p> + +<p>Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and, +though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and +its odor is perfectly natural.</p> + +<p>The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, +according to the quality and strength of the pomade:—Take from six to +eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into +one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit, +allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the +essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris +root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale.</p> + +<p>We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture +of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels upon them inferring +the contents to be "Extract of Violet;" customers thus once "taken in" +are not likely to be so a second time.</p> + +<h4>A good <span class="smcap">Imitation Essence of Violets</span> is best prepared thus—</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of cassie pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, from pomade,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture, it is the +extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose +and tuberose becomes very much like the violet. Moreover, it has a green +color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the +judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell. +Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the +most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many +others.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vitivert</span>, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass. In the +neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an +extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and +sun-shades, called Tatty. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles +water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation +of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very +agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert. It has +a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers—if such +a distinction can be admitted. We classify it with orris root, not that +it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use +in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its +odor.</p> + +<p>About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is <a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>imported, being cut +small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, +produces the</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Essence of Vitivert</span> of the shops. In this state it is rarely +used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, +perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in +"the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, +enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old +bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as +"<i>Mousselaine des Indies</i>," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the +zenith of his fame, created quite a <i>furor</i> in the fashionable world.</p> +<p><a name="vitivert" id="vitivert"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 603px;"> +<img src="images/image105.png" width="603" height="218" alt="Vitivert." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Vitivert.</span> +</div> + +<p>Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert +in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, +as above.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Marechale</span> and <span class="smcap">Bouquet du Roi</span>, perfumes which have also +"had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained +in them.</p> + +<p>Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, +and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders.</p> + +<p>Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of +vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, <a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>which in appearance very much +resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at +Kew.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Volkameria</span>.—An exquisite perfume is sold under this name, +presumed, of course, to be derived from the <i>Volkameria inermis</i> +(<span class="smcap">Lindley</span>). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that +plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a +native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic +gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's +enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes +"takes" with the fashionable world—the plant which christens it has a +fine perfume for a certainty!</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Volkameria</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de violette,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence de muse,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Wallflower</span> (<i>Cherianthus</i>).—Exquisite as is the odor of this +flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and +very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To +this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted +for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our +climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor +has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it +answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the +large way, and there is no <a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>fear but that the scent of the old English +wallflower will meet with a demand.</p> + +<h4>An <span class="smcap">Imitation Essence of Wallflower</span> can be compounded thus:—</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essential oil of almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting +it up for sale.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Winter Green</span> (<i>Trientalis Europœa</i>).—A perfuming otto can +be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally +consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of +this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Iceland Winter Green</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence of lavender,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are +used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; +it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is <a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>unnoticed, +it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the +methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are +analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the +processes of <i>maceration</i>, <i>absorption</i>, or <i>enfleurage</i> for flowers, by +<i>tincturation</i> for roots, and by <i>distillation</i> for seeds, modified +under certain circumstances.</p> + +<p>There are, however, three other important derivative odors—ambergris, +civet, and musk—which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated +separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the +whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. +Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we +have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being +considered as primitive odors.</p> + +<p>On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the +odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or +of those compound <i>odors</i> sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may +probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the +consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Quantities of Essential Oils, or Ottos, Paying 1<i>s.</i> per Pound Duty, +entered for Home Consumption in the Year 1852.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='center'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>28,574</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " caraway,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>3,602</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>6,163</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>595</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>12,776</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>67,348</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " peppermint,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>16,059</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " roses,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>1,268</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " spearmint,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>163</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " thyme,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>11,418</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon grass,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " citronella,</td><td align='left'>}</td><td align='right'>47,380</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>And other ottos not otherwise described,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>————</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>195,346</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>at the duty of 1<i>s.</i> per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766<i>l.</i> +16<i>s.</i></p> + +<p>It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of +cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that +amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very +large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale +and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of +caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the +foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably +to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually.</p> + +<p>There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in +1852—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c., commonly called "French Pomatums,"</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>average value of 6<i>s.</i>per pound, and paying a duty of 1<i>s.</i>per pound, valued by the importers at</td><td align='left'> £1,306</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Perfumery not otherwise described; value</td><td align='left'>£1,920</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of 1<i>s.</i> each,<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">[D]</a></td><td align='left'>19,777</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 flacons at 8<i>d.</i> = 8,000<i>l.</i> annually.</p> + +<p>The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale +of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket +handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000<i>l.</i> per annum. +This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home +manufacture of perfumery.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="SECTION_IV" id="SECTION_IV"></a>SECTION IV.</h2> + +<h3>PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.</h3> + + +<p>In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we +now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin. +The first under our notice is—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ambergris</span>.—This substance is found in the sea, floating near +the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of +America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of +Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The +shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, +are the principal <a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical +Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the +first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was +bought on the spot for 20<i>l.</i>, but which afterwards was sold in London +for more than 100<i>l.</i> (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite +within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of +ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at +issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these +animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet +with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti +whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the +cause or effect of the disease.</p> + +<p>Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of +vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name +amber-<i>gris</i> (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province +of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, +which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern +appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to +any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely +quoting the facts known more than a century ago.</p> + +<p>A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried +cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say +whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that <a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>its +perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that +<span class="smcap">Homberg</span> found that "a vessel in which he had made a long +digestion of the human fæces had acquired a very strong and perfect +smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a +great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume +(<i>odor!</i>) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of +the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.)</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in +deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many +an agreeable smell.</p> + +<p>Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing +little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives +permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the +perfumer esteems it much.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Ambergris</span></h4> + +<p>Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the +public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extrait d'Ambre.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of ambergris,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence of musk,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>2 ounces.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well +perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been +washed.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which +clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak +alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through +the lavatory ordeal.</p> + +<p>Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes—little +ivory or bone boxes perforated—which are made to contain a paste of +strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in +the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming +writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.</p> +<p><a name="civet" id="civet"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;"> +<img src="images/image113.png" width="448" height="343" alt="Civet Cat." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Civet Cat.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Civet</span>.—This substance is secreted by the <i>Viverra civetta</i>, or +civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between +the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of +Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch.</p> + +<p>When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one +time was common in Amsterdam, <a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>they are placed in strong cages, so +constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the +person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is +said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet +with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good +deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut, +capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates.</p> + +<p>In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting +odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is +agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same +substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the +nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such +is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos, +which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively +nasty—such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if +diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their +fragrance is delightful.</p> + +<p>Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the +homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it +that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best +imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood +of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being +covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and +envelopes delightfully, and so much so, <a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>that they retain the odor after +passing through the post.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Extract of Civet</span> is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce +of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar +material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then +placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating +for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a +"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French +perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who +seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint +is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Castor</span> is a secretion of the <i>Castor fiber</i>, or beaver, very +similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in +perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Musk</span>.—This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal +secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the +male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods," +and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from +the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain +musk."</p> + +<p>The musk deer (<i>Moschus moschatus</i>) is an inhabitant of the great +mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into +Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range, +near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, <a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>but always on the +borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only +that the musk is produced.</p> +<p><a name="musk" id="musk"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;"> +<img src="images/image116.png" width="375" height="376" alt="Musk Pod, actual size." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Musk Pod, actual size.</span> +</div> + +<p>It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among +Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most +esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still +lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal +varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single +musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk +is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces +each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case, +it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark, +friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered, +as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we +presume that the best musk <a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is +remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything +in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor, +although not in actual contact with it.</p> + +<p>It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not +like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the +largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that +the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those +substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale—so +long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no +musk in it."</p> +<p><a name="deer" id="deer"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<img src="images/image117.png" width="415" height="336" alt="The Musk Deer." title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Musk Deer.</span> +</div> + +<p>The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet +powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of +Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful +odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, <a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>but its perfume +stamps it among the <i>élite</i>—its fragrance it owes to musk.</p> + +<p>The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the +odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass +be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true +musk smell.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Musk.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Grain musk,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw +off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes. +That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared +thus:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extrait de Musc.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk (as above),</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling.</p> + +<p>This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to +our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be +seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for +a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile +odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible, +namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, <i>i.e.</i><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a> very volatile, +and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period, +<i>ergo</i>, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with +esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain +this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the +handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the +original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the +nasal organ.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_V" id="SECTION_V"></a>SECTION V.</h2> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Ammonia</span>.—Under the various titles of "Smelling Salts," +"Preston Salts," "Inexhaustible Salts," "Eau de Luce," "Sal Volatile," +ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively +consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve.</p> + +<p>The perfumer uses liq. amm. fortis, that is, strong liquid ammonia, and +the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing the various "salts" that +he sells. These materials he does not attempt to make; in fact, it is +quite out of his province so to do, but he procures them ready for his +hand through some manufacturing chemist. The best preparation for +smelling-bottles is what is termed <span class="smcap">Inexhaustible Salts</span>, which +is prepared thus:—</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Liquid ammonia,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " English lavender,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and +well-stoppered bottle.</p> + +<p>This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous +absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge +cuttings, that have been well beaten, washed, and dried. These cuttings +can <a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers, +being the trimming or roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut off +before the merchants send it into the retail market. After the bottles +are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the scented +ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain, when the +bottles are inverted; as, if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is +spilt over certain colored fabrics, it causes a stain. When such an +accident happens, the person who sold it is invariably blamed.</p> + +<p>When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the ammoniacal +odor longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled +in this way are called "inexhaustible," which name, however, they do not +sustain more than two or three months with any credit; the warm hand +soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to +be refilled.</p> + +<p>For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use +what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass). The bottles +being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, +scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. The necks of the bottles +are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from +the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and +causes complaints to be made. The crystals are prettier in colored +bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite +as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the <a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>ammonia better than +any other material. Perfumers sell also what is called <span class="smcap">White +Smelling Salts</span>, and <span class="smcap">Preston Salts</span>. The White Smelling Salt +is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any +perfuming otto that is thought fit,—lavender otto giving, as a general +rule, the most satisfaction.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Preston Salts</span>, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal +compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and +lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate +of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with +this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is +poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of French +lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely +mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed +over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to +which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of +ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though +properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made—which is very +rarely the case—it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which +renders it characteristic.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Luce.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of benzoin: or,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " balsam of Peru,</td><td align='left'>}</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of amber,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>5 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Liquor ammonia,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered, +as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery</span>.—The pungency of the odor +of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of +perfumery.</p> + +<p>The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is +the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists.</p> + +<p>The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized +with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Aromatic Vinegar</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Concentrated acetic acid,</td><td align='left'>8 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of English lavender,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " camphor,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the +perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional +agitation, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use.</p> + +<p>Several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published, +almost all of which, however, appear to complicate and mystify a process +that is all simplicity.</p> + +<p>The most popular article of this kind is—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Henry's Vinegar.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol (rectified),</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Concentrated acetic acid,</td><td align='left'>16 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid, and +digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14° C. or 15° C. +Finally, press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it.</p> + +<p>As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press, +for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue, it is +best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can, by means of a common +funnel, and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs, +by tying them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure by +means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer, or similar device.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre a la Rose.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Concentrated acetic acid,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Well shaken together.</p> + +<p>It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a +similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto +of roses. All these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as +perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an +ornamental "smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of +sulphate of potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or +upon sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their +French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in the +presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of +infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the story of the "four +thieves' vinegar," which is thus rendered in Lewis's Dispensatory:</p> + +<p><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>"It is said that during the plague at Marseilles, four persons, by the +use of this preservative, attended, unhurt, multitudes of those that +were affected; that under the color of these services, they robbed both +the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards apprehended, one of +them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the +prophylactic (a very likely story!!), which was as follows:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre des quatre Voleurs, or Four Thieves' Vinegar</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of each,</td><td align='left'>3/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lavender flowers,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, each,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol or brandy,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Strong vinegar,</td><td align='left'>4 pints.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Digest all the materials, except the camphor and spirit, in a closely +covered vessel for a fortnight, at a summer heat; then express and +filter the vinaigre produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved +in the brandy or spirit."</p> + +<p>A very similar and quite as effective a preparation may be made by +dissolving the odorous principle of the plants indicated in a mixture of +alcohol and acetic acid. Such preparations, however, are more within the +province of the druggist than perfumer. There are, however, several +preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for mixing with +the water for lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors endeavoring +<a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>to place them in competition with Eau de Cologne, but with little +avail. Among them may be enumerated—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Hygienic or Preventive Vinegar.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Brandy,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " marjoram,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum benzoin,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Macerate these together for a few hours, then add—</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Brown vinegar,</td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>and strain or filter, if requisite, to be bright.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Toilet Vinegar</span> (<i>à la Violette</i>).</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, triple,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wine vinegar,</td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Toilet Vinegar</span> (<i>à la Rose</i>).</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Dried rose-leaves,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, triple,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wine vinegar,</td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle for +sale.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vinaigre de Cologne.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>To eau de Cologne,</td><td align='left'>1 pint,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Add, strong acetic acid,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Filter if necessary.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulæ, it will be obvious to +the reader that vinegar of any flower may be prepared in a similar way +to those above noticed; thus, for vinaigre à la jasmine, or for vinaigre +à la fleur d'orange, we have only to substitute the esprit de jasmine, +or the esprit de fleur d'orange, in place of the Eau de Cologne, to +produce orange-flower or jasmine vinegars; however, these latter +articles are not in demand, and our only reason for explaining how such +preparations may be made, is in order to suggest the methods of +procedure to any one desirous of making them leading articles in their +trade.</p> + +<p>We perhaps may observe, <i>en passant</i>, that where economy in the +production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of consideration, +they have only to be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable +strength required.</p> + +<p>Any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce opalescence, +when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic +vinegar, as above. Either myrrh, benzoin, storax, or tolu, answer +equally well.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_VI" id="SECTION_VI"></a>SECTION VI.</h2> + +<h3>BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.</h3> + + +<p>In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of +preparing the primitive perfumes—the original odors of plants. It will +have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the +form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not +been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty +body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the +exception of otto of rose—that diamond among the odoriferous gems. +Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, +Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of +these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in +which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards +infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the +most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils +(<i>i.e.</i> otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The +simple odors, when isolated, are called <span class="smcap">Essential Oils</span> or +<span class="smcap">Ottos</span>; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by +the English they are termed <span class="smcap">Essences</span>, and by the French +<span class="smcap">Extraits</span> or <span class="smcap">Esprits</span>; a few exceptions prove this rule. +Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed +in the trade "Essence"<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a> of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of +essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature +is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the +fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the +writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it +would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant, +brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that +such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We +should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender, +&c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used +the word <span class="smcap">otto</span> in place of "essential oil," in accordance with +his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat +oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered +obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"—oil of +jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will +use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these +differences of composition.</p> + +<p>There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants +should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad +principle to give any class of substances the same signification as +those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing +qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical +reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large +class of substances known as the aroma of plants!</p> + +<p><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies +were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the +old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a +little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use. +We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential +oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term +sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the +odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy +bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with +salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils, +<i>i.e.</i> what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the +contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances.</p> + +<p>The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its +literal meaning refers—fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy +substances—and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials +which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled +with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no +longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have +almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like.</p> + +<p>It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates +to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulæ for preparing the +most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as <a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>before stated, are +but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, +produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,—an effect upon the +smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious +sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">The Alhambra Perfume</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " geranium,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " acacia,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " civet,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">The Bosphorus Bouquet</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of acacia,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'>}of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " civet,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet d'Amour</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix and filter.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d'Andorre</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tuberose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of geranium,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Buckingham Palace Bouquet</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Caroline; also called Bouquet des Delices</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td> <td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tuberose,}</td><td align='left'> }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " Limette,</td><td align='left'> } of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cedret,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">The Court Nosegay</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>Eau de Chypre</span>.</h4> + +<p>This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the +<i>Cyperus esculentus</i> by some, and by others to be so named after the +Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tonquin bean,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be +made.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Empress Eugenie's Nosegay</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tonquin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " geranium,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Esterhazy Bouquet</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vitivert,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tonquin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that +gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited +greater <i>furor</i> while in fashion.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Ess Bouquet.</span></h4> + +<p>The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of +the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the +shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close +imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, +who are, in truth, the original makers.</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of ambergris,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>8 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemons,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere +contraction of "essence" of bouquet.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Cologne.</span> (<i>La première qualité.</i>)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof,</td><td align='left'>6 gallons.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli, <i>Petale</i>,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " <i>Bigarade</i>,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rosemary,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>5 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " citron-peel,</td><td align='left'>5 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot-peel,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly +quiet, before bottling.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>Eau de Cologne.</span> (<i>La deuxième qualité.</i>)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit (from corn),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>6 gallons.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,<i>Petit-grain</i>,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " <i>Petale</i>,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rosemary,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a +sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, +not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial +qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the +purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public +taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and +evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called +"refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we +cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important +thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and +that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter +impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to +resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to +make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original +article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" +of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived +from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and +characteristic <a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. +The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the œanthic ether which +it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to +fusel oil. So powerful is the œanthic ether in the French spirit, +that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous +substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives +a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence +the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of +this substance.</p> + +<p>Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the +ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, +first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the +mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, +such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne.</p> + +<p>A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been +published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no +knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on +paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the +aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, +hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, +cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, +peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.</p> + +<p>All these, however, are but hum—! Where it is a mere matter of profit, +and the formula that we <a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>have given is too expensive to produce the +article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak +spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; +because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is +retained.</p> + +<p>The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show +that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Flowers of Erin.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of white rose (see White Rose),</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Royal Hunt Bouquet</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " acacia,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td><td align='left'>of each</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tonquin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of citron</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Flora; otherwise, Extract of Flowers.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of benzoin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orange,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>The Guards' Bouquet.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Fleur d'Italie; or Italian Nosegay.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, from pomade,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, each,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of cassie,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Jockey Club Bouquet.</span> (<i>English formula.</i>)</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris root,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose de pomade,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>} de pomade, of each</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Jockey Club Bouquet.</span> (<i>French formula.</i>)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, de pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of civet,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Independently of the materials employed being different to the original +English recipe, it must be <a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>remembered that all the French perfumes are +made of brandy, <i>i.e.</i> grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are +made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for +some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on +account of the predominance of its own aroma.</p> + +<p>We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and +French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes +made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different +spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of +their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a +superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly +admit that <i>some</i> odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than +with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly +the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, +ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to +retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with +the British spirit.</p> + +<p>All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau +de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to +perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract +of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy +spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the +olfactory nerve—so completely does the œanthic ether of the grape +spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. +This solves the paradox that English extract of <a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>violet and its +compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the +Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown +there.</p> + +<p>On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de +Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by +Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a +failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, +but judges of the article—and they alone can stamp its merit—discover +instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between +"Patent British" and foreign brandy.</p> + +<p>Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in +this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, +foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, +a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the +difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of +the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated +Cognac.</p> + +<p>Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have +thought that some flavoring, or that œanthic ether, was used to +impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the +market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very +badly made butyric ether.</p> + +<p>On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation +of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the +market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England +we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the <a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>corn spirit. These +adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the +primitive alcohols.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">A Japanese Perfume.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rose triple,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " patchouly,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cedar,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vervaine,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Kew Garden Nosegay.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de neroli (<i>Petale</i>),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " geranium,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau des Millefleurs</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose de pomade,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vjasmine,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violette,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of cedar,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then +filtered prior to sale.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Millefleurs et Lavender</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence of lavender (<i>Mitcham</i>),</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eau des millefleurs,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Decroix's Milleflower Lavender.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirits from grape,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>French otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of ambergris,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its +peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although +some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; +hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, +and has almost superseded the original preparations.</p> + +<p>There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the +leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as +lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., +all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with +about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet du Marechale.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tonquin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau de Mousselaine.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Bouquet maréchale,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet de Montpellier.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de tubereuse,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose de pomade,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'> }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergarmot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Caprice de la Mode.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " nutmegs,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of civet,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">May Flowers.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rose (de pomade),</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>Neptune, or Naval Nosegay</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de rose, triple,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " patchouly,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " verbena,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/8 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet of all Nations</span>.</h4> + +<p>Countries wherein the Odors are produced.</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Turkey,</td><td align='left'>Esprit de rose triple,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Africa,</td><td align='left'>Extract of jasmine,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>England,</td><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>France,</td><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>South America,</td><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Timor,</td><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Italy,</td><td align='left'> " violet,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hindoostan,</td><td align='left'> " patchouly,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ceylon,</td><td align='left'>Otto of citronella,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sardinia,</td><td align='left'> " lemons,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin,</td><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Isle of Wight Bouquet</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet du Roi</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of jasmine,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violet,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>Bouquet de la Reine</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, of each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de violette,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Rondeletia</span>.</h3> + +<p>The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most +gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, +Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the <i>name</i> of this +odor from the <i>Rondeletia</i>, the <i>Chyn-len</i> of the Chinese; or from the +R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before +observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve +produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different +sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract +of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet +the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are +certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new +aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is +exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when +mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and +blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are +united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.</p> + +<p>Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce +a new fragrance, <i>i.e.</i> Rondeletia!<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a> It is such combinations that +constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, +is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, +and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when +so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used +accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a +like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal +proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or +hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that +patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the +vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most +delicate.</p> + +<p>Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we +express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, +as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. +By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in +the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is +pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a +warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to +cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the +general benefit of health.</p> + +<p>To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed +formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its +peculiar character—that is, cloves and lavender—it contains musk, +vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in <a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>nearly all other +bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the +handkerchief.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Rondeletia</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " roses,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. +Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bouquet Royal</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rose (from pomade),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose, triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violet,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " verbena,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemons,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of musk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Suave</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>5 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>Spring Flowers</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rose,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade, each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violet,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose, triple,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the +very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing +perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being +unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there +is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of +the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to +which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that +neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is +due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor +upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients +it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an +Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that +does not attempt an imitation.</p> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Tulip Nosegay</span>.</h4> + +<p>Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are +inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an +exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the +purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its <a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>poetical name, +and makes an excellent imitation thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>} from pomade each,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violet,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violette des Bois</span>.</h4> + +<p>Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing +the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers +sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of +the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of violet,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose (from pomade)</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer +than the pure violet.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle Bouquet</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>8 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassie,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " musk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " ambergris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>Yacht Club Bouquet</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose triple,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Flowers of benzoin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates +to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too +much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of +so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. +Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar +character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand +recipes that have been practically tried.</p> + +<p>Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of +flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_VII" id="SECTION_VII"></a>SECTION VII.</h2> + + +<p>The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the +present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,—sachet powders, tablets, +pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. +&c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more +than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and +shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very +extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures +for proofs:—"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and +frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, +3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is +considered as a sign of humiliation:—"The Lord will take away the +tablets, and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there +shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in +this passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, +and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of +buildings, which would explain the word <i>palaces</i>, in Psalm 14:8:—"All +thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of the ivory +palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt. +2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most +valuable gifts which man could bestow;—"And <a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>when they (the wise men) +had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; +gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all +the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period +of the world were <i>dry</i> perfumes, consisting of spikenard (<i>Nardostachys +jatamansi</i>), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which +are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities +shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian +catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a +pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We +have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were +for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Sachet Powders</span>.</h3> + +<p>The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these +substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, +find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of +imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. +The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either +to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sachet au Cypre</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Ground rose-wood,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cedar-wood,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal-wood,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>3 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sachet a la Frangipanne</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vitivert powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-wood powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Musk-pods, ground,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from +a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an +alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called +rosolis, or ros-solis, <i>sun-dew</i>, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as +a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, +in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Heliotrope Sachet</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered orris,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose leaves, ground,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin beans, ground,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla beans,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grain musk,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale.</p> + +<p>It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly <i>au naturel</i> in +its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person +unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to +be any other than the "real thing."</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>Lavender Sachet</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Lavender flowers, ground,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum benzoin, in powder,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lavender,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sachet a la Marechale</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Powder of santal-wood,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris-root,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-leaves, ground,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cloves, ground,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cassia-bark,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grain musk,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sachet a la Mousselaine</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Vitivert, in powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-wood,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Black-currant leaves (<i>casse</i>),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoin, in powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of thyme,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " roses,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Millefleur Sachet</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Lavender-flowers, ground,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-leaves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Musk and civet,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cloves, ground,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cinnamon,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Allspice,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>Portugal Sachet.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Dried orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon-peel,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orris-root,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon-grass,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Patchouly Sachet.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Patchouly herb, ground,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of patchouly,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state, as imported, tied up +in bundles of half a pound each.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pot Pourri.</span></h4> + +<p>This is a mixture of dried flowers and spices <i>not</i> ground.</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Dried lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Whole rose-leaves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Crushed orris (coarse),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Broken cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cinnamon,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " allspice,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Table salt,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>We need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to increase the bulk +and weight of the product, in order to sell it cheap.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Olla Podrida.</span></h3> + +<p>This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be +given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse +and spent <a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of +perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture +or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, +orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., +mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Sachet.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose heels or leaves,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-wood, ground,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Santal-wood Sachet.</span></h4> + +<p>This is a good and economical sachet, and simply consists of the ground +wood. Santal-wood is to be purchased from some of the wholesale +drysalters; the drug-grinders are the people to reduce it to powder for +you—any attempt to do so at home will be found unavailable, on account +of its toughness.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sachet</span> (<i>without a name</i>).</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Dried thyme,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon thyme,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " mint,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " marjoram,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose heels,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ground cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Allspice,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Musk in grain,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>Vervain Sachet.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Lemon-peel, dried and ground,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " thyme,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon-grass,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " " peel,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vitivert Sachet.</span></h4> + +<p>The fibrous roots of the <i>Anthoxanthum muricatum</i> being ground, +constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from the +Tamool name, <i>vittie vayer</i>, and by the Parisian <i>vetiver</i>. Its odor +resembles myrrh. Vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches, as +imported from India, than ground, and is used for the prevention of +moth, rather than as a perfume.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Sachet.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Black-currant leaves (<i>casse</i>),</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose heels or leaves,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root powder,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grain musk,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum benzoin, in powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in a +glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale.</p> + +<p>There are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given, +but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater +variety than those named. There are, however, many other substances used +in a similar way; the most popular is the</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>Peau d'Espagne</span>.</h4> + +<p>Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly perfumed +leather. Good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a +mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins, +thus:—Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of each half an ounce; otto +of lavender, verbena, bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce; otto of +cloves and cinnamon, of each two drachms; with any others thought fit. +In this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin; now place the +skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it over a line to dry. A +paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with +one drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum +tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence; a little of any of the +ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &c., +greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body; the skin being cut +up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over, +plaster fashion, with the last-named compost; two pieces being put +together, having the civet plaster inside them, are then to be placed +between sheets of paper, weighed or pressed, and left to dry thus for a +week; finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be +enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the taste of +the vender.</p> + +<p>Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and +hence they are frequently called<a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a> "the inexhaustible sachet." Being +flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-paper.</p> + +<p>The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to +many; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is +tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree, with +which it is curried. The odor of Russia leather is, however, not +<i>recherché</i> enough to be considered as a perfume; but, nevertheless, +leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any +sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree, especially +with otto of santal or lemon-grass (<i>Verbena</i>). In this manner the odor +of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly varied, and gives great +satisfaction, on account of the permanence of its perfume.</p> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Perfumed Letter-Paper.</span></h4> + +<p>If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with paper, the latter +absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as "perfumed;" it is obvious +that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous +tinctures or ottos, on account of such matters interfering with the +fluidity of the ink and action of the pen; therefore, by the process of +infection, as it were, alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage.</p> + +<p>Besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as +dry perfumes, such as scented wadding, used for quilting into all sorts +of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir. Pincushions, jewel +<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>cases, and the like are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply +steeped in some strong essence of musk, &c.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Perfumed Book-markers</span>.</h4> + +<p>We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous +substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board +treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for +sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, +others with embroidery.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Cassolettes and Printaniers</span>.</h4> + +<p>Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, +perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. +The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made +glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the +vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or +gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things +are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in +the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pastils</span>.</h4> + +<p>There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils, or +pastilles, as they are more often called, from the French, has been +derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the +religious services:—"According to the custom of the priest's office, +his lot (Zacharias') was to burn incense <a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>when he went into the temple +of the Lord." (Luke 1:9.) "And thou shalt make an altar to burn +incense.... And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning +when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when he lighteth the lamps he +shall burn incense upon it." (Exodus 30.)</p> + +<p>An analogous practice is in use to the present day in the Roman Catholic +churches, but, instead of being consumed upon an altar, the incense is +burned in a censer, as doubtless many of our readers have seen. "As soon +as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the +holy place was filled with perfume, and the congregation without joined +in prayers." (<i>Carpenters Temple service of the Hebrews.</i>)</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">The Censer.</span></h4> + +<p>"On the walls of every temple in Egypt, from Meröe to Memphis, the +censer is depicted smoking before the presiding deity of the place; on +the walls of the tombs glow in bright colors the preparation of spices +and perfumes." In the British Museum there is a vase (No. 2595) the body +of which is intended to contain a lamp, the sides being perforated to +admit the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes; which +are intended to contain ottos of flowers placed in the small vases at +the end of the tubes; the heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly +perfumes an apartment. This vase or censer is from an Egyptian catacomb.</p> +<p><a name="censer" id="censer"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 307px;"> +<img src="images/image162.png" width="307" height="422" alt="The Censer." title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Censer.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Censer, as used in the "holy places," is made either of brass, +German silver, or the precious metals; <a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>its form somewhat resembles a +saucer and an inverted cup, which latter is perforated, to allow the +escape of the perfume. In the outer saucer is placed an inner one of +copper, which can be taken out and filled with ignited charcoal. When in +use, the ignited carbon is placed in the censer, and is then covered +with the incense; the heat rapidly volatilizes it in visible fumes. The +effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer, attached +to three long chains, in the air. The manner of swinging the censer +varies slightly in the churches in Rome, in France, and in England, some +holding it above the head. At <span class="smcap">La Madeleine</span> the method is always +to <a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>give the censer a full swing at the greatest length of the chains +with the right hand, and to catch it up short with the left hand.</p> + +<p>Several samples of "incense prepared for altar service," as sent out by +Mr. Martin, of Liverpool, appear to be nothing more than gum olibanum, +of indifferent quality, and not at all like the composition as +especially commanded by God, the form for which is given in full in +Exodus.</p> + +<p>The pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight modification of +the incense of the ancients. For many years they were called Osselets of +Cyprus. In the old books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known +gum-resins was called Suffitus, which being thrown upon hot ashes +produced a vapor which was considered to be salutary in many diseases.</p> + +<p>It is under the same impression that pastils are now used, or at least +to cover the <i>mal odeur</i> of the sick-chamber.</p> + +<p>There is not much variety in the formula of the pastils that are now in +use; we have first the</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Indian, or Yellow Pastils</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-wood, in powder,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum benzoin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " Tolu,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>3 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitrate of potass,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mucilage of tragacantha,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'> q.s. to make the whole into a stiff paste.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>The benzoin, santal-wood, and Tolu, are to be powdered and mixed by +sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre being dissolved in the +mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar, the pastils are +formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried.</p> + +<p>The Chinese josticks are of a similar composition, but contain no Tolu. +Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the +Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value +of santal-wood.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Dr. Paris's Pastils.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cascarilla,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Myrrh,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Charcoal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of nutmegs,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>3/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitre,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix as in the preceding.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Perfumer's Pastils.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Well-burned charcoal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tolu,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla pods,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>2 dr.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitre,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mucilage tragacantha,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>q.s.</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>Piesse's Pastils.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Willow charcoal,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoic acid,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>6 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of thyme,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " caraway,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 dr.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or +ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and +then allow it to dry in a warm place.</p> + +<p>When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed +ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting +(the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and +mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to +bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better.</p> + +<p>A great variety of formulæ have been published for the manufacture of +pastils; nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark, or aromatic +seeds. Now, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if +the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion—the slow +combustion—materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor; +in fact, the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized +aromatic ingredients; it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used +in lieu of other substances. The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely +for burning, <a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>producing, during its combustion, the heat required to +quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded. +The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and therefore +does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil. Such is, +however, not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not +in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of +heat. If combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the +aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides the +volatilized otto which the wood contains, all the compounds naturally +produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter, spoiling the true odor +of the other ingredients volatilized.</p> + +<p>There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally +where these products are the materials sought. By such fumigation, as +when brown paper is allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combustion) in a +room for the purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of +tobacco, that is, combustion with flame, there is no odor developed, but +by its slow combustion, according to the method adopted by those who +indulge in "the weed," the familiar aroma, "the cloud," is generated, +and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil +should not develope any odor of its own, but simply volatilize that +fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We think that +the fourth formula given above carries out that object.</p> + +<p>It does not follow that the formulæ that are here given produce at all +times the odor that is most <a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>approved; it is evident that in pastils, as +with other perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste. Many persons very +much object to the aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes +of cascarilla.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">The Perfume Lamp.</span></h4> + +<p>Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum +remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of +Cambridge, made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of +perfuming apartments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Eau de +Cologne, and "trimmed" with a wick in the usual manner. Over the centre +of the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch above it, a small +ball of spongy platinum is placed, maintained in its position by being +fixed to a thin glass rod, which is inserted into the wick.</p> +<p><a name="lamp" id="lamp"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 383px;"> +<img src="images/image167.png" width="383" height="315" alt="Perfume Lamp." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Perfume Lamp.</span> +</div> + +<p>Thus arranged, the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to burn until the +platinum becomes red hot; the flame may then be blown out, nevertheless +the platinum remains incandescent for an indefinite <a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>period. The +proximity of a red-hot ball to a material of the physical quality of Eau +de Cologne, diffused over a surface of cotton wick, as a matter of +course causes its rapid evaporation, and as a consequence the diffusion +of odor.</p> + +<p>Instead of the lamp being charged with Eau de Cologne, we may use Eau de +Portugal, vervaine, or any other spirituous essence. Several perfumers +make a particular mixture for this purpose, which is called</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau a Bruler</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Eau de Cologne,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of benzoin,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of thyme,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " mint,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " nutmeg,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Another form, called</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Eau pour Bruler</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoic acid,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of thyme,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " caraway,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps will, however +frequently observe that, whatever difference there may be in the +composition of the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of +similarity in the odor of the result when the platinum is in action. +This arises from the fact, that <a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>so long as there is the vapor of +alcohol, mixed with oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain +definite products always result, namely, acetic acid, aldehyde, and +acetal, which are formed more or less and impart a peculiar and rather +agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but which overpowers any other odor +that is present.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Fumigating Paper.</span></h4> + +<p>There are two modes of preparing this article:—</p> + +<p>1. Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip them into a solution of +alum—say, alum, one ounce; water, one pint. After they are thoroughly +moistened, let them be well dried; upon one side of this paper spread a +mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of Tolu +or Peruvian balsam, or the benzoin may be used alone. To spread the gum, +&c., it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel and +poured thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the surface with a hot +spatula. When required for use, slips of this paper are held over a +candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous matter, but not to +ignite it. The alum in the paper prevents it a to certain extent from +burning.</p> + +<p>2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of +saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one pint of +water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried.</p> + +<p>Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be +dissolved to saturation in <a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>rectified spirit, and with a brush spread +upon one side of the paper, which, being hung up, rapidly dries.</p> + +<p>Slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills, to be ignited, and +then to be blown out.</p> + +<p>The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion, +diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous +gums. If two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the +surface is dry, they will join and become as one. When cut into slips, +they form what are called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_VIII" id="SECTION_VIII"></a>SECTION VIII.</h2> + +<h3>PERFUMED SOAP.</h3> + + +<p>The word soap, or sope, from the Greek <i>sapo</i>, first occurs in the works +of Pliny and Galen. Pliny informs us that soap was first discovered by +the Gauls, that it was composed of tallow and ashes, and that the German +soap was reckoned the best. According to Sismondi, the French historian, +a soapmaker was included in the retinue of Charlemagne.</p> + +<p>At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 79), a +soap-boiler's shop with soap in it was discovered during some +excavations made there not many years ago. (<i>Starke's Letters from +Italy.</i>)</p> + +<p>From these statements it is evident that the manufacture of soap is of +very ancient origin; indeed, Jeremiah figuratively mentions it—"For +though thou wash thee with natron, and take thee much soap, yet thine +iniquity is marked before me." (Jer. 2:22.)</p> + +<p>Mr. Wilson says that the earliest record of the soap trade in England is +to be found in a pamphlet in the British Museum, printed in 1641, +entitled "A short Account of the Soap Business." It speaks more +particularly about the duty, which was then levied for the first time, +and concerning certain patents which were granted to persons, chiefly +Popish recusants, for some pretended new invention of white <a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>soap, +"which in truth was not so." Sufficient is said here to prove that at +that time soap-making was no inconsiderable art.</p> + +<p>It would be out of place here to enter into the details of soap-making, +because perfumers do not manufacture that substance, but are merely +"remelters," to use a trade term. The dyer purchases his dye-stuffs from +the drysalters already fabricated, and these are merely modified under +his hands to the various purposes he requires; so with the perfumer, he +purchases the various soaps in their raw state from the soap-makers, +these he mixes by remelting, scents and colors according to the article +to be produced.</p> + +<p>The primary soaps are divided into hard and soft soaps: the hard soaps +contain soda as the base; those which are soft are prepared with potash. +These are again divisible into varieties, according to the fatty matter +employed in their manufacture, also according to the proportion of +alkali. The most important of these to the perfumer is what is termed +curd soap, as it forms the basis of all the highly-scented soaps.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Curd Soap</span> is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine +tallow.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Oil Soap</span>, as made in England, is an uncolored combination of +olive oil and soda, hard, close grain, and contains but little water in +combination.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Castile Soap</span>, as imported from Spain, is a similar combination, +but is colored by protosulphate of iron. The solution of the salt being +added to the soap after it is manufactured, from the presence of +<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>alkali, decomposition of the salt takes place, and protoxide of iron is +diffused through the soap of its well-known black color, giving the +familiar marbled appearance to it. When the soap is cut up into bars, +and exposed to the air, the protoxide passes by absorption of oxygen +into peroxide; hence, a section of a bar of Castile soap shows the outer +edge red-marbled, while the interior is black-marbled. Some Castile soap +is not artificially colored, but a similar appearance is produced by the +use of a barilla or soda containing sulphuret of the alkaline base, and +at other times from the presence of an iron salt.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Marine Soap</span> is a cocoanut-oil soap, of soda containing a great +excess of alkali, and much water combination.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Yellow Soap</span> is a soda soap, of tallow, resin, of lard, &c. &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Palm Soap</span> is a soda soap of palm oil, retaining the peculiar +odor and color of the oil unchanged. The odoriferous principle of palm +oil resembling that from orris-root, can be dissolved out of it by +tincturation with alcohol; like ottos generally, it remains intact in +the presence of an alkali, hence, soap made of palm oil retains the odor +of the oil.</p> + +<p>The public require a soap that will not shrink and change shape after +they purchase it. It must make a profuse lather during the act of +washing. It must not leave the skin rough after using it. It must be +either quite inodorous or have a pleasant aroma. None of the above soaps +possess all these qualities in union, and, therefore, to produce such an +article is the object of the perfumer in his remelting process.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap, in 1853, it was a +commercial impossibility for a perfumer to <i>manufacture</i> soap, because +the law did not allow less than one ton of soap to be made at a time. +This law, which, with certain modifications had been in force since the +reign of Charles I, confined the actual manufacture of that article to +the hands of a few capitalists. Such law, however, was but of little +importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling plant and apparatus is not +very compatible with a laboratory of flowers; yet, in some exceptional +instances, these excise regulations interfered with him; such, for +instance, as that in making soft soap of lard and potash, known, when +perfumed, as <i>Crême d'Amande</i>; or unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream, +which has, in consequence of that law, been entirely thrown into the +hands of our continental neighbors.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fig Soft Soap</span> is a combination of oils, principally olive oil +of the commonest kind, with potash.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Naples Soft Soap</span> is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil) and +potash, colored brown for the London shavers, retaining, when pure, its +unsophisticated "fishy" odor.</p> + +<p>The above soaps constitute the real body or base of all the fancy +scented soaps as made by the perfumers, which are mixed and remelted +according to the following formula:—</p> + +<p>The remelting process is exceedingly simple. The bar soap is first cut +up into thin slabs, by pressing them against a wire fixed upon the +working bench. This cutting wire (piano wire is the kind) is made <a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>taut +upon the bench, by being attached to two screws. These screws regulate +the height of the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the +slabs from the bars. The soap is cut up into thin slabs, because it +would be next to impossible to melt a bar whole, on account of soap +being one of the worst conductors of heat.</p> + +<p>The melting pan is an iron vessel, of various sizes, capable of holding +from 28 lbs. to 3 cwt., heated by a steam jacket, or by a water-bath. +The soap is put into the pan by degrees, or what is in the vernacular +called "rounds," that is, the thin slabs are placed perpendicularly all +round the side of the pan; a few ounces of water are at the same time +introduced, the steam of which assists the melting. The pan being +covered up, in about half an hour the soap will have "run down." Another +round is then introduced, and so continued every half hour until the +whole "melting" is finished. The more water a soap contains, the easier +is it melted; hence a round of marine soap, or of new yellow soap, will +run down in half the time that it requires for old soap.</p> + +<p>When different soaps are being remelted to form one kind when finished, +the various sorts are to be inserted into the pan in alternate rounds, +but each round must consist only of one kind, to insure uniformity of +condition. As the soap melts, in order to mix it, and to break up lumps, +&c., it is from time to time "<i>crutched</i>." The "crutch" is an instrument +or tool for stirring up the soap; its name is indicative of its form, a +long handle with a short cross—an <a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>inverted 'T', +curved to fit the curve of the pan. When the soaps are all melted, +it is then colored, if so required, and then the perfume is added, the +whole being thoroughly incorporated with the crutch.</p> +<p><a name="gauge" id="gauge"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 472px;"> +<img src="images/image1-176.png" width="472" height="325" alt="Frame and Slab Gauge." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Frame and Slab Gauge.</span> +</div> + +<p>The soap is then turned into the "frame." The frame is a box made in +sections, in order that it can be taken to pieces, so that the soap can +be cut up when cold; the sections or "lifts" are frequently made of the +width of the intended bar of soap.</p> +<p><a name="barring" id="barring"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<img src="images/image2-176.png" width="414" height="215" alt="Barring Gauge." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Barring Gauge.</span> +</div> + +<p>Two or three days after the soap has been in the frame, it is cool +enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or sections of the +frame; these slabs are set up edgeways to cool for a day or two more; it +is <a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>then barred by means of a wire. The lifts of the frame regulate the +widths of the bars; the gauge regulates their breadth. The density of +the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so that the +soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights; +that is, either into squares of four, six, or eight to the pound weight. +Latterly, various mechanical arrangements have been introduced for +soap-cutting, which in very large establishments, such as those at +Marseilles in France, are great economisers of labor; but in England the +"wire" is still used.</p> +<p><a name="squaring" id="squaring"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 509px;"> +<img src="images/image1-177.png" width="509" height="259" alt="Squaring Gauge." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Squaring Gauge.</span> +</div> +<p><a name="scoop" id="scoop"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;"> +<img src="images/image2-177.png" width="490" height="298" alt="Soap Scoop." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Soap Scoop.</span> +</div> + +<p>For making tablet shapes the soap is first cut into <a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>squares, and is +then put into a mould, and finally under a press—a modification of an +ordinary die or coin press. Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a +little tool called a "scoop," made of brass or ivory, being, in fact, a +ring-shaped knife. Balls are also made in the press with a mould of +appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained +by the press and appropriate moulds. The fruit-shaped soaps, after +leaving the mould, are dipped <a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>into melted wax, and are then colored +according to artificial fruit-makers' rules.</p> +<p><a name="press" id="press"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> +<img src="images/image1-178.png" width="382" height="304" alt="Soap Press." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Soap Press.</span> +</div> +<p><a name="moulds" id="moulds"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 436px;"> +<img src="images/image2-178.png" width="436" height="194" alt="Moulds." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Moulds.</span> +</div> + +<p>The "variegated" colored soaps are produced by adding the various +colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously mixed with water, to the +soap in a melted state; these colors are but slightly crutched in, hence +the streaky appearance or party color of the soap; this kind is also +termed "marbled" soap.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Soap</span>.</h4> + +<p>This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil," +and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is +in reality constituted thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Finest curd soap,</td><td align='left'>1 cwt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " oil soap,</td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " marine,</td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " caraway,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> +<p>By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be +added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish +with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before +turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume.</p> + +<p>Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial +essence of almonds (see <span class="smcap">Almond</span>) for perfuming soap, it being +far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has +proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned <a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>by +Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>28 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1-1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>1-1/4 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition +of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted +and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch +for mixing.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Honey Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Best yellow soap,</td><td align='left'>1 cwt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fig soft soap,</td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of citronella,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">White Windsor Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 cwt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marine soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>21 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of caraway,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " thyme,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rosemary,</td><td align='left'>} of each</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Brown Windsor Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3/4 cwt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marine soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yellow soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Brown coloring (caramel),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of caraway,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " thyme,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " petit grain,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " French lavender,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Sand Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marine soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sifted silver sand,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>28 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of thyme,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " caraway,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " French lavender,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Fuller's Earth Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>10-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marine soap,</td><td align='left'>3-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fuller's earth (baked),</td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of French lavender,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " origanum,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The above forms are indicative of the method adopted for perfuming soaps +while hot or melted.</p> + +<p>All the very highly scented soaps are, however, perfumed cold, in order +to avoid the loss of scent, 20 per cent. of perfume being evaporated by +the hot process.</p> + +<p>The variously named soaps, from the sublime "Sultana" to the ridiculous +"Turtle's Marrow," we cannot of course be expected to notice; the reader +may, however, rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission.</p> + +<p>The receipts given produce only the finest quality <a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>of the article +named. Where cheap soaps are required, not much acumen is necessary to +discern that by omitting the expensive perfumes, or lessening the +quantity, the object desired is attained. Still lower qualities of +scented soap are made by using greater proportions of yellow soap, and +employing a very common curd, omitting the oil soap altogether.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Scenting Soaps hot</span>.</h4> + +<p>In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scenting soap involved +the necessity of melting it. The high temperature of the soap under +these circumstances involves the obvious loss of a great deal of perfume +by evaporation. With very highly scented soaps, and with perfume of an +expensive character, the loss of ottos is too great to be borne in a +commercial sense; hence the adoption of the plan of</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Scenting Soaps cold</span>.</h4> + +<p>This method is exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small +batches, involving merely mechanical labor, the tools required being +simply an ordinary carpenter's plane, and a good marble mortar, and +lignum vitæ pestle.</p> + +<p>The woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at each end, so that when +placed over the mortar it remains firm and not easily moved by the +parallel pressure of the soap against its projecting blade.</p> + +<p>To commence operations, we take first 7 lbs., 14 lbs., or 21 lbs. of the +bars of the soap that it is intended <a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>to perfume. The plane is now laid +upside down across the top of the mortar.</p> + +<p>Things being thus arranged, the whole of the soap is to be pushed across +the plane until it is all reduced into fine shavings. Like the French +"Charbonnier," who does not saw the wood, but woods the saw, so it will +be perceived that in this process we do not plane the soap, but that we +soap the plane, the shavings of which fall lightly into the mortar as +quickly as produced.</p> +<p><a name="plane" id="plane"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 429px;"> +<img src="images/image183.png" width="429" height="306" alt="Soaping the Plane." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Soaping the Plane.</span> +</div> + +<p>Soap, as generally received from the maker, is the proper condition for +thus working; but if it has been in stock any time it becomes too hard, +and must have from one to three ounces of distilled water sprinkled in +the shaving for every pound of soap employed, and must lay for at least +twenty-four hours to be absorbed before the perfume is added.</p> + +<p>When it is determined what size the cakes of soap are to be, what they +are to sell for, and what it is intended they should cost, then the +maker can measure out his perfume.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>In a general way, soaps scented in this way retail from 4<i>s.</i> to 10<i>s.</i> +per pound, bearing about 100 per cent. profit, which is not too much +considering their limited sale. The soap being in a proper physical +condition with regard to moisture, &c., is now to have the perfume well +stirred into it. The pestle is then set to work for the process of +incorporation. After a couple of hours of "warm exercise," the soap is +generally expected to be free from streaks, and to be of one uniform +consistency.</p> + +<p>For perfuming soap in large portions by the cold process, instead of +using the pestle and mortar as an incorporator, it is more convenient +and economical to employ a mill similar in construction to a cake +chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill; any mechanical apparatus that +answers for mixing paste and crushing lumps will serve pretty well for +blending soap together.</p> + +<p>Before going into the mill, the soap is to be reduced to shavings, and +have the scent and color stirred in; after leaving it, the flakes or +ribands of soap are to be finally bound together by the pestle and +mortar into one solid mass; it is then weighed out in quantities for the +tablets required, and moulded by the hand into egg-shaped masses; each +piece being left in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet +of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the +press, which is the same as that previously mentioned. It is usual, +before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to dust them over with a +little starch-powder, or else to very slightly oil the mould; <a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>either of +these plans prevents the soap from adhering to the letters or embossed +work of the mould—a condition essential for turning out a clean +well-struck tablet.</p> + +<p>The body of all the fine soaps mentioned below should consist of the +finest and whitest curd soap, or of a soap previously melted and colored +to the required shade, thus:—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rose-colored Soap</span> is curd soap stained with vermilion, ground +in water, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted, and not very +hot.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Green Soap</span> is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap, to +which is added powdered smalt ground with water.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Blue Soap</span>, curd soap colored with smalt.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Brown Soap</span>, curd soap with caramel, <i>i.e.</i> burnt sugar.</p> + +<p>The intensity of color varies, of course, with the quantity of coloring.</p> + +<p>Some kinds of soap become colored or tinted to a sufficient extent by +the mere addition of the ottos used for scenting, such as "spermaceti +soap," "lemon soap," &c., which become of a beautiful pale lemon color +by the mere mixing of the perfume with the curd soap.</p> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Otto of Rose Soap</span>.</h4> + +<h4>(<i>To retail at 10s. per pound</i>.)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion),</td><td align='left'>4-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirituous extract of musk,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " geranium,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Tonquin Musk Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Pale brown-colored curd soap,</td><td align='left'>5 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Grain musk,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Rub the musk with the bergamot, then add it to the soap, and beat up.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Orange-Flower Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>3-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Santal-wood Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of santal,</td><td align='left'>7 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Spermaceti Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>14 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Citron Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>6 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of citron,</td><td align='left'>3/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " verbena (lemon-grass),</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>One of the best of fancy soaps that is made.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>Frangipanne Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap (previously colored light brown),</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Civet,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Rub the civet with the various ottos, mix, and beat in the usual manner.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Patchouly Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>4-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of patchouly,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " vitivert,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Saponaceous Cream of Almonds</span>.</h4> + +<p>The preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap of lard. It +has a beautiful pearly appearance, and has met with extensive demand as +a shaving soap. Being also used in the manufacture of +<span class="smcap">Emulsines</span>, it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by +the perfumer. It is made thus:—</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Clarified lard,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Potash of lye (containing 26 per cent. of caustic potash),</td><td align='left'>3-3/4 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><i>Manipulation</i>.—Melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by a salt-water +bath, or by a steam heat under 15 lbs. pressure; then run in the lye, +<i>very slowly</i>, agitating <a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>the whole time; when about half the lye is in, +the mixture begins to curdle; it will, however, become so firm that it +cannot be stirred. The crême is then finished, but is not pearly; it +will, however, assume that appearance by long trituration in a mortar, +gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved the perfume.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Soap Powders</span>.</h4> + +<p>These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifrice and at others for +shaving; they are made by reducing the soap into shavings by a plane, +then thoroughly drying them in a warm situation, afterwards grinding in +a mill, then perfuming with any otto desired.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rypophagon Soap</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Best yellow soap,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fig soft soap,</td><td align='left'>} equal parts melted together.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Perfume with anise and citronella.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Ambrosial Cream</span>.</h4> + +<p>Color the grease very strongly with alkanet root, then proceed as for +the manufacture of saponaceous cream. The cream colored in this way has +a blue tint; when it is required of a purple color we have merely to +stain the white saponaceous cream with a mixture of vermilion and smalt +to the shade desired. Perfume with otto of oringeat.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Transparent Soft Soap</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Solution caustic potash (<i>Lond. Ph</i>.),</td><td align='left'>6 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olive oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Perfume to taste.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>Before commencing to make the soap, reduce the potash lye to one half +its bulk by continued boiling. Now proceed as for the manufacture of +saponaceous cream. After standing a few days, pour off the waste liquor.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Transparent Hard Soap</span>.</h4> + +<p>Reduce the soap to shavings, and dry them as much as possible, then +dissolve in alcohol, using as little spirit as will effect the solution, +then color and perfume as desired, and cast the product in appropriate +moulds; finally dry in a warm situation.</p> + +<p>Until the Legislature allows spirit to be used for manufacturing +purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our neighbors in this +article.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Juniper Tar Soap</span>.</h4> + +<p>This soap is made from the tar of the wood of the <i>Juniperus communis</i>, +by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable oil, such as almond or olive oil, +or in fine tallow, and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye, after +the customary manner. This yields a moderately firm and clear soap, +which may be readily used by application to parts affected with +eruptions at night, mixed with a little water, and carefully washed off +the following morning. This soap has lately been much used for eruptive +disorders, particularly on the Continent, and with varying degrees of +success. It is thought that the efficient element in its composition is +a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known in Paris under the +name <i>huile de cade</i>. On account of its ready miscibility with water, it +possesses great advantage over the common tar ointment.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>Medicated Soaps</span>.</h4> + +<p>Six years ago I began making a series of medicated soaps, such as +<span class="smcap">Sulphur Soap, Iodine Soap, Bromine Soap, Creosote Soap, Mercurial +Soap, Croton Oil Soap</span>, and many others. These soaps are prepared by +adding the medicant to curd soap, and then making in a tablet form for +use. For sulphur soap, the curd soap may be melted, and flowers of +sulphur added while the soap is in a soft condition. For antimony soap +and mercurial soap, the low oxides of the metals employed may also be +mixed in the curd soap in a melted state. Iodine, bromine, creosote +soap, and others containing very volatile substances, are best prepared +cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant +with it by long beating.</p> + +<p>In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they +will prove of infinite service as auxiliaries to the general treatment. +It is obvious that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active +during the lavoratory process; such soap must not, therefore, be used +except by the special advice of a medical man. Probably these soaps will +be found useful for internal application. The precedent of the use of +Castile soap (containing oxide of iron) renders it likely that when +prejudice has passed away, such soaps will find a place in the +pharmacopœias. The discovery of the solubility, under certain +conditions, of the active alkaloids, quinine, morphia, &c., in oil, by +Mr. W. Bastick, greatly favors the supposition of analogous compounds in +soap.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_IX" id="SECTION_IX"></a>SECTION IX.</h2> + +<h3>EMULSINES.</h3> + + +<p>From soaps proper we now pass to those compounds used as substitutes for +soap, which are classed together under one general title as above, for +the reason that all cosmetiques herein embraced have the property of +forming emulsions with water.</p> + +<p>Chemically considered, they are an exceedingly interesting class of +compounds, and are well worthy of study. Being prone to decomposition, +as might be expected from their composition, they should be made only in +small portions, or, at least, only in quantities to meet a ready sale.</p> + +<p>While in stock they should be kept as cool as possible, and free from a +damp atmosphere.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Amandine</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Fine almond oil,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Simple syrup,<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_E_5" class="fnanchor">[E]</a> </td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White soft soap, or saponaceous cream, <i>i.e.</i> Crême d'Amande,</td><td align='left'> 1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'> 1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture <a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>is homogeneous, then +rub in the oil by degrees; the perfume having been previously mixed with +the oil.</p> +<p><a name="emulsine" id="emulsine"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;"> +<img src="images/image192.png" width="426" height="312" alt="Oil-Runner in Emulsine Process." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Oil-Runner in Emulsine Process.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the difficulty is to get in +the quantity of oil indicated, without which it does not assume that +transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. To attain +this end, the oil is put into "a runner," that is, a tin or glass +vessel, at the bottom of which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The +oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run slowly into the mortar +in which the amandine is being made, just as fast as the maker finds +that he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and syrup; and so long +as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the +hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar quicker than the +workman can blend it with the paste, then the paste becomes "oiled," and +may be considered as "done for," unless, indeed, the whole process be +gone through again, starting off with fresh syrup and soap, using up the +greasy mass as if it were <a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>pure oil. This liability to "go off," +increases as the amandine nears the finish; hence extra caution and +plenty of "elbow grease" must be used during the addition of the last +two pounds of oil. If the oil be not perfectly fresh, or if the +temperature of the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat, it +will be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the +formula into combination; when the mass becomes bright and of a +crystalline lustre, it will be well to stop the further addition of oil +to it.</p> + +<p>This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the +lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to +exclude air. When the amandine is filled into the jars, the top or face +of it is marked or ornamented with a tool made to the size of half the +diameter of the interior of the jar, in a similar way to a saw; a piece +of lead or tortoise-shell, being serrated with an angular file, or piece +of an "old saw," will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, +and turn the jar gently round.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Olivine</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum acacia, in powder,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Honey,</td><td align='left'>6 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yolk of eggs, in number,</td><td align='left'>5.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White soft soap,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olive oil,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Green oil,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " thyme and cassia, each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>Rub the gum and honey together until incorporated, then add the soap +and egg. Having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the +mixture is to be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly +as indicated for amandine.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Honey and Almond Paste</span>. (<i>Pâte d'Amande au Miel</i>.)</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Bitter almonds, blanched and ground,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Honey,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yolk of eggs, in number,</td><td align='left'>8.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and +finally the ground almonds and the perfume.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Paste</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Bitter almonds, blanched and ground,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol (60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'>16 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stewpan; +with a slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their granular +texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the +whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan, +and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odor.</p> + +<p>The large quantity of otto of almonds which is volatilized during the +process, renders it essential <a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>that the operator should avoid the vapor +as much as possible.</p> + +<p>When the almonds are nearly cooked, the remaining water is to be added; +finally the paste is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the pestle; +then the perfume and spirit are added. Before potting this paste, as +well as honey paste, it should be passed through a medium fine sieve, to +insure uniformity of texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly.</p> + +<p>Other pastes, such as <i>Pâte de Pistache</i>, <i>Pâte de Cocos</i>, <i>Pâte de +Guimauve</i>, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is +unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not be +confounded with preparations bearing a similar name made by +confectioners.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Meal</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Ground almonds,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat flour,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root powder,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " almonds,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pistachio Nut Meal, or any other Nut</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds are bleached),</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris powder,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemons,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are +occasionally in demand, and are prepared as the foregoing.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory process as +substitutes for soap, and to "render the skin pliant, soft, and fair!"</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Emulsin au Jasmin</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Saponaceous cream,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Simple syrup,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Best jasmine oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Emulsin a le Violette</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Saponaceous cream,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Syrup of violets,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Best violet oil,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Emulsin of other odors can be prepared with tubereuse, rose, or cassie +(acacia) oil (prepared by enfleurage or maceration).</p> + +<p>For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see "Amandine," p. 195.</p> + +<p>On account of the high price of the French oils, these preparations are +expensive, but they are undoubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_X" id="SECTION_X"></a>SECTION X.</h2> + +<h3>MILK, OR EMULSIONS.</h3> + + +<p>In the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready sale than +that class of cosmetiques denominated milks. It has long been known that +nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts, when decorticated +and freed from their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and +rubbed with about four times their weight of water, produce fluid which +has every analogy to cow's milk. The milky appearance of these emulsions +is due to the minute mechanical division of the oil derived from the +nuts being diffused through the water. All these emulsions possess great +chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition, and the +products emanating from their fermentation, especially that made with +sweet almonds and pistachios (<i>Pistachia vera</i>).</p> + +<p>In the manufacture of various milks for sale, careful manipulation is of +the utmost importance, otherwise these emulsions "will not keep;" hence +more loss than profit.</p> + +<p>"Transformation takes place in the elements of vegetable caseine +(existing in seeds) from <i>the very moment</i> that sweet almonds are +converted into almond-milk."—<span class="smcap">Liebig</span>. This accounts for the +difficulty many persons find in making milk of almonds that does not +spontaneously divide, a day or so after its manufacture.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>Milk of Roses</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Valencia almonds (blanched),</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol (60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax, spermaceti, oil soap, each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><i>Manipulation</i>.—Shave up the soap, and place it in a vessel that can be +heated by steam or water-bath; add to it two or three ounces of +rose-water. When the soap is perfectly melted, add the wax and +spermaceti, without dividing them more than is necessary to obtain the +correct weight; this insures their melting slowly, and allows time for +their partial saponification by the fluid soap; occasional stirring is +necessary. While this is going on, blanch the almonds, carefully +excluding every particle that is in the least way damaged. Now proceed +to beat up the almonds in a scrupulously clean mortar, allowing the +rose-water to trickle into the mass by degrees; the runner, as used for +the oil in the manufacture of olivine, is very convenient for this +purpose. When the emulsion of almonds is thus finished, it is to be +strained, <i>without pressure</i>, through clean <i>washed</i> muslin (<i>new</i> +muslin often contains starch, flour, gum, or dextrine).</p> + +<p>The previously-formed saponaceous mixture is now to be placed in the +mortar, and the ready-formed emulsion in the runner; the soapy compound +and the emulsion is then carefully blended together. As the last of the +emulsion runs into the mortar, the spirit, in which the otto of roses +has been dissolved, is to take its place, and to be <i>gradually</i> trickled +into the <a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>other ingredients. A too sudden addition of the spirit +frequently coagulates the milk and causes it to be curdled; as it is, +the temperature of the mixture rises, and every means must be taken to +keep it down; the constant agitation and cold mortar effecting that +object pretty well. Finally, the now formed milk of roses is to be +strained.</p> + +<p>The almond residue may be washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water, +in order to prevent any loss in bulk to the whole given quantity. The +newly-formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a tap in it +about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. After standing perfectly +quiet for twenty-four hours it is fit to bottle. All the above +precautions being taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without +precipitate or creamy supernatation. These directions apply to all the +other forms of milk now given.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Milk of Almonds</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Bitter almonds (blanched),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Distilled (or rose) water,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol (60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3/4 pint.<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_F_6" class="fnanchor">[F]</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax, spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil, curd soap,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Milk of Elder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet almonds,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Elder-flower water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol (60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'>8 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of elder flowers, prepared by maceration,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax, sperm, soap, each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>Milk of Dandelion</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Expressed juice of dandelion root,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit tubereuse,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>8 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Green oil, wax,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>} each</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh pressed; as it is in +itself an emulsion, it may be put into the mortar after the almonds are +broken up, and stirred with the water and spirit in the usual manner.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Milk of Cucumber</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet almonds,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Expressed juice of cucumbers,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit (60 o.p.),</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>8 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence of cucumbers,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Green oil, wax,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Curd soap,</td><td align='left'>} each</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute, +cool it as quickly as possible, then strain through fine muslin; proceed +to manipulate in the usual manner.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Essence of Cucumbers</span>.</h4> + +<p>Break up in a mortar 28 lbs. of good fresh cucumbers; with the pulp +produced mix 2 pints rectified spirit (sp. gr. .837), and allow the +mixture to stand for a day and night; then distil the whole, and draw +off a pint and a half. The distillation may be continued so as to obtain +another pint fit for ulterior purposes.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>Creme de Pistache</span>. (<i>Milk of Pistachio Nuts</i>.)</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Pistachio nuts,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orange-flower water,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3-1/4 pints.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit neroli,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>3/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Palm soap,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Green oil, wax,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Lait Virginal</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture benzoin,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Add the water very slowly to the tincture; by so doing an opalescent +milky fluid is produced, which will retain its consistency for many +years; by reversing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, +a cloudy precipitate of the resinous matter ensues, which does not again +become readily suspended in the water.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Extract of Elder Flowers</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Elder-flower water,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture benzoin,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Manipulate as for virgin's milk.</p> + +<p>Similar compounds may, of course, be made with orange-flower and other +waters.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XI" id="SECTION_XI"></a>SECTION XI.</h2> + +<h3>COLD CREAM.</h3> + + +<p>Galen, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in Asia, but who +distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria, and Rome, about 1700 years +ago, was the inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and +water, which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as +<i>Ceratum Galeni</i> in Pharmacy.</p> + +<p>The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a different thing +to that given in the works of Galen in point of odor and quality, +although substantially the same—grease and water. In perfumery there +are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor, such as +that of camphor, almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by +English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but +throughout Europe; the quantity exported, and which can only be reckoned +by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements that may +be seen in the shops on the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of +"Cold Crême Anglaise," is good proof of the estimation in which it is +held.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Cold Cream</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax, }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>spermaceti, } each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a><i>Manipulation</i>.—Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel, which +should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice +the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm; now +put the jar into a boiling bath of water; when these materials are +melted, add the oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the +flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied; now remove the jar and contents, +and set it under a runner containing the rose-water: the runner may be a +tin can, with a small tap at the bottom, the same as used for the +manufacture of milk of roses. A stirrer must be provided, made of +lancewood, flat, and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence, +resembling in form a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is +set running, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the +water has passed into it; now and then the flow of water must be +stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down, +and incorporated with that which remains fluid. When the whole of the +water has been incorporated, the cream will be cool enough to pour into +the jars for sale; at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The +reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious—the +heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by +evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars +into which it is poured, and retains "a face" resembling pure wax, +although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream. +When the pots are well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years. +If desired for exportation <a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>to the East or West Indies, it should always +be sent out in stoppered bottles.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Cold Cream of Almonds</span></h4> + +<p>Is prepared precisely as the above; but in place of otto of roses otto +of almonds is used.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Cold Cream.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Huile violette,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax and spermaceti, each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Cold Cream. Imitation.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>3/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Huile cassie,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sperm and wax,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Tubereuse, Jasmine, and Fleur d'Orange Cold Creams.</span></h4> + +<p>Are prepared in similar manner to violet (first form); they are all very +exquisite preparations, but as they <i>cost</i> more than rose cold cream, +perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Cold Cream.</span> (<i>Otherwise Camphor Ice</i>.)</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax and Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil, then manipulate as for +cold cream of roses.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Cucumber Cold Cream</span>. (<i>Crême de Concombre</i>.)</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Green oil,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Juice of cucumber,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax and sperm, each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to +pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be raised to a +temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which +it contains, and then strained through fine linen, as the heat is +detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto +of cucumber. The following method may be adopted with advantage:—Slice +the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the oil; +after remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation, +using fresh fruit in the strained oil; no warmth is necessary, or at +most, not more than a summer heat; then proceed to make the cold cream +in the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorized, the rose-water, +and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with +a little neroli.</p> + +<p>Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the +Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit, +thus:—The <a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a +water-bath; the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it; the vessel +containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool. +The lard will rise to the surface, and when cold must be removed from +the fluid juice; the same manipulation being repeated as often as +required, according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the +grease.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pivers' Pomade of Cucumber.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoinated lard,</td><td align='left'>6 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Essence of cucumbers,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep it constantly in motion while +it cools, now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the essence +of cucumbers; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated, +and the pomade is beautifully white.</p> + +<p><i>Melons</i> and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same +way. (See "Essence of Cucumbers," p. 204.)</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pomade Divine.</span></h4> + +<p>Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade divine, like James's +powder, has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine +expectations of its concoctors. This article strictly belongs to the +druggist, being sold as a remedial agent; nevertheless, what <i>is</i> sold +is almost always vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lard,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>3/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum benzoin,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla beans,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not +exceeding 90° C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may be +poured into the bottles for sale. (Must be <i>stamped</i> if its medicinal +qualities are stated.)</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Balls</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified suet,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Balls</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified suet,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of French lavender or rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Both the above articles are sold either white or colored with alkanet +root. When thoroughly melted, the material is cast in a mould; ounce +gallipots with smooth bottoms answer very well for casting in. Some +venders use only large pill-boxes.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphor Paste</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet almond oil,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified lard,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax and spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>Glycerine Balsam</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Glycerine,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Of the remedial action of any of the above preparations we cannot here +discuss; in giving the formulæ, it is enough for us that they are sold +by perfumers.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Lip Salve</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti and wax, each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alkanet root,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated +by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest +on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; +finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it +cools.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">White Lip Salve</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax and Spermaceti, each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " geranium,</td><td align='left'>1/4 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron +must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat +radiated from <a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it +an even face.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Common Lip Salve</span></h4> + +<p>Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet +root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XII" id="SECTION_XII"></a>SECTION XII.</h2> + +<h3>POMADES AND OILS.</h3> + + +<p>The name of pomatum is derived from <i>pomum</i>, an apple, because it was +originally made by macerating over-ripe apples in grease.</p> + +<p>If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves, then exposed +to the air for a few days, and afterwards macerated in purified melted +lard, or any other fatty matter, the grease will become perfumed. +Repeating the operation with the same grease several times, produces +real "pomatum."</p> + +<p>According to a recipe published more than a century ago the form given +is:—"Kid's grease, an orange sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water, +and half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last +sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds." The author, Dr. Quincy, observes, +that "the apple is of no significance at all in the recipe," and, like +many authors of the present day, concludes that the reader is as well +acquainted with the subject as the writer, and therefore considers that +the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe are, likewise, of no +significance. According to ancient writers, unguent, pomatum, ointment, +are synonymous titles for medicated and perfumed greases. Among biblical +interpreters, the significant word is mostly rendered "ointment;" thus +we have in Prov. 27:9, "Ointment and perfume rejoice <a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>the heart;" in +Eccles. 9:8, "Let thy head lack no ointment."</p> + +<p>Perfumers, acting upon their own or Dr. Quincy's advice, pay no regard +to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming +lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of them +or all blended, to produce a particular result, according to the name +that it bears.</p> + +<p>The most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum, &c., +is to start off with a <i>perfectly inodorous</i> grease, whatever that +grease may be.</p> + +<p>Inodorous lard is obtained thus:—Take, say 28 lbs. of <i>perfectly fresh</i> +lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel, that can be submitted to the +heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam under a slight pressure; +when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two +ounces of table salt; maintain the heat for some time, in fact till a +scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine +compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off; when the liquid +grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold.</p> + +<p>The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a time, +and is a work of much labor, which, however, is amply repaid by the +result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a +little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over +it; the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative +working a muller over it, precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in +oil. In this way the water removes any traces of <a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>alum or salt, also the +last traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole +is washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to +drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished.</p> + +<p>Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and takes a good +deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for perfuming with +flowers, because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its +<i>mal odeur</i> than the expense of thus deodorizing it. Moreover, if lard +be used that "smells of the pig," it is next to impossible to impart to +it any delicate odor; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos, +the unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly becomes rancid. Under +any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not <i>perfectly inodorous</i> +is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades.</p> + +<p>In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are +made by <span class="smcap">Enfleurage</span>, or by <span class="smcap">Maceration</span><a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_G_7" class="fnanchor">[G]</a> (see pp. 37, +38), the purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures is +of sufficient importance to become a separate trade.</p> + +<p>The purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great measure the same +as that for lard: the greater solidity of suets requires a mechanical +arrangement for washing them of a more powerful nature than can be +applied by hand labor. Mr. Ewen, who is undoubtedly the best +fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating upon a circular +slab; motion is given <a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>to the roller by an axle which passes through the +centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which the suet is placed; +being higher in the centre than at the sides, the stream of water flows +away after it has once passed over the suet; in other respects the +treatment is the same as for lard. These greases used by perfumers have +a general title of "body," tantamount to the French nomenclature of +<i>corps</i>; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft +corps (lard). For making <i>extraits</i>, such as extrait de violette, +jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred; but when scented +pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair, pomades of +soft corps are the most useful.</p> + +<p>The method of perfuming grease by the direct process with flowers having +already been described under the respective names of the flowers that +impart the odor thereto, it remains now only to describe those compounds +that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected +with this branch of perfumery as has not been previously mentioned.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Acacia Pomade</span>, commonly called <span class="smcap">Cassie Pomatum</span>, is made +with a purified body-grease, by maceration with the little round yellow +buds of the <i>Acacia Farnesiana</i>.</p> + +<p>Black currant leaves, and which the French term <i>cassie</i>, have an odor +very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used extensively for +adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils. The near similarity of +name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical +connection), together with the word<a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a> <i>cassia</i>, a familiar perfume in +England, has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the +true origin of the odor now under discussion. Cassie, casse, cassia, it +will be understood now, are three distinct substances; and in order to +render the matter more perspicuous in future, the materials will always +be denominated <span class="smcap">Acacia</span>, if prepared from the <i>Acacia +Farnesiana</i>; <span class="smcap">Casse</span>, when from <i>black currant</i>; and +<span class="smcap">Cassia</span>, if derived from the bark of the <i>Cinnamomum Cassia</i>.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Benzoin Pomade and Oil.</span></h4> + +<p>Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an ounce of +benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil, +deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals +that effloresce from vanilla beans; a portion of the acid, however, +remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to +it the peculiar aroma of benzoin; upon this idea is based the principle +of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process, that is, by +macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours, +at a temperature of about 80° C. to 90° C. Nearly all the gum-resins +give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies, when treated in the +same way; this fact becoming generally known, will probably give rise to +the preparation of some new remedial ointments, such as <i>Unguentum +myrrhæ</i>, <i>Unguentum assafœtida</i>, and the like.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tonquin Pomade</span>, and <span class="smcap">Tonquin Oil</span>, are prepared by +macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either <a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>melted fat or warm oil, +from twelve to twenty-eight hours, in the proportion of</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tonquin beans,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fat or oil,</td><td align='left'>4 lbs.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Strain through fine muslin; when cold, the grease will have a fine odor +of the beans.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vanilla Oil and Pomade.</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla pods,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fat or oil,</td><td align='left'>4 lbs.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Macerate at a temperature of 25° C. for three or four days; finally +strain.</p> + +<p>These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles +already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all +the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and +oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various +ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the +foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet—for grease, +however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is +far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos.</p> + +<p>The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly +because their perfume is lasting and flowery.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pomade called Bear's Grease.</span></h4> + +<p>The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Huile de rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " acacia,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse and jasmin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>10 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lard,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>12 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Acacia pomade,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath, +then add the ottos.</p> + + +<p>Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to "set" in the pots at +a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if required for exportation to +the East or West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums +instead of oils, or more lard and less almond oil.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Circassian Cream</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified lard,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Benzoin suet,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>French rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil, colored with alkanet,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Balsam of Flowers</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>French rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>12 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " violet pomatum,</td><td align='left'>12 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Crystallized Oil</span>. (<i>First quality</i>).</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Huile de rose,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>8 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>Crystallized Oil</span>. (<i>Second quality</i>.)</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond,</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spermaceti,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon,</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath, then add the +oils; continue the heat until all flocks disappear; let the jars into +which it is poured be warm; cool as slowly as possible, to insure good +crystals; if cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of +crystals. This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far sells +well; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head +scurfy; indeed, the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in +flakes after it has been used a week or two.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Castor Oil Pomatum</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tubereuse pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castor oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Balsam of Neroli</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>French rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>3/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Marrow Cream</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified lard,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Palm oil,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>Marrow Pomatum</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified lard,</td><td align='left'>4 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " suet,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>3 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula +for half an hour or more; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air +are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only increase the bulk of the +mixtures, but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation, rendering the +pomatum light and spongy; in this state it is obvious that it fills out +more profitably than otherwise.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Common Violet Pomatum</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified lard,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Washed</i> acacia pomatum,</td><td align='left'>6 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose pomatum,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Manipulate as for marrow pomatum.</p> + +<p>In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufacturing perfumers +used the washed French pomatums and the washed French oils for making +their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that +originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage +and by maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles have been +subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the +handkerchief. After the spirit has been on the pomatums, &c., it is +poured off; the residue is then called <i>washed</i> pomatum, <a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>and still +retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases.</p> + +<p>For pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to substitute rose, +jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the acacia pomatum in the +above formulæ.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pomade Double, Millefleurs</span>.</h4> + +<p>Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all made in +winter, with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-third best French oils; +in summer, equal parts.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pomade a la Heliotrope</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>French rose pomade,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vanilla oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Huile de jasmine,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>6 drops.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>3 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Huile Antique</span>. (<i>A la Heliotrope</i>.)</h4> + +<p>Same as the above, substituting rose oil for the pomade.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Philocome</span>.</h3> + +<p>The name of this preparation, which is a compound of Greek and Latin, +signifying "a friend to the hair," was first introduced by the Parisian +perfumers; and a very good name it is, for Philocome is undoubtedly one +of the best unguents for the hair that is made.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>Philocome</span>. (<i>First quality</i>.)</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>10 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fresh rose-oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " acacia oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmine oil,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " fleur d'orange oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse oil,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath, at the lowest possible +temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour out the Philocome +until it is nearly cool enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots +into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or at least of the +same temperature as the Philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the +material as it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Philocome</span>. (<i>Second quality</i>.)</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>5 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Almond oil,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemon,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lavender,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Fluid Philocome</span>.</h4> + +<p>Take 1 ounce of wax to 1 pound of oil.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pommade Hongroise</span>. (<i>For the Moustache</i>.)</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Lead plaster,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Acacia huile,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " almonds,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil; mix the +ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water. +Lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil: it is +best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Hard or Stick Pomatums</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Purified suet,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White wax,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Jasmine pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tubereuse pomatum,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Another Form</span>,—<i>cheaper</i>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Suet,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wax,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cassia,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The above recipes produce <span class="smcap">White Batons</span>. <span class="smcap">Brown</span> and +<span class="smcap">Black Batons</span> are also in demand. They are made in the same way +as the above, but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such +colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Black and Brown Cosmetique</span>.</h4> + +<p>Such as is sold by <span class="smcap">Rimmel</span>, is prepared with a nicely-scented +soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber. The soap is melted, +and the coloring added while the soap is soft; when cold it is cut up in +oblong pieces.</p> + +<p>It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied with a small +brush and water.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XIII" id="SECTION_XIII"></a>SECTION XIII.</h2> + +<h3>HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY.</h3> + + +<p>By way of personal adornment, few practices are of more ancient origin +than that of painting the face, dyeing the hair, and blackening the +eyebrows and eyelashes.</p> + +<p>It is a practice universal among the women of the higher and middle +classes in Egypt, and very common among those of the lower orders, to +blacken the edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a +black powder, which they term <i>kohhl</i>. The kohhl is applied with a small +probe of wood, ivory, or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. +This is moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped in the powder, +and drawn along the edges of the eyelids. It is thought to give a very +soft expression to the eye, the size of which, in appearance, it +enlarges; to which circumstances probably Jeremiah refers when he +writes, "Though thou rentest thy face (or thine eyes) with painting, in +vain shalt thou make thyself fair."—<i>Jer.</i> 4:30. See also +<span class="smcap">Lane's</span> <i>Modern Egyptians</i>, vol. i, p. 41, et seq.</p> + +<p>A singular custom is observable both among Moorish and Arab +females—that of ornamenting the face between the eyes with clusters of +bluish spots or other small devices, and which, being stained, become +permanent. The chin is also spotted in a similar manner, and a narrow +blue line extends from <a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>the point of it, and is continued down the +throat. The eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and extremities of +the eyelids, are colored black. The soles, and sometimes other parts of +the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, +are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna +(<i>Lawsonia inermis</i>), the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle, +and is dried for the purposes above mentioned. The back of the hand is +also often colored and ornamented in this way with different devices. On +holidays they paint their cheeks of a red brick color, a narrow red line +being also drawn down the temples.</p> + +<p>In Greece, "for coloring the lashes and sockets of the eye they throw +incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire, intercept the smoke which +ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, +sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and closing one of her eyes, +took the two lashes between the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, +pulled them forward, and then, thrusting in at the external corner a +sort of bodkin or probe which had been immersed in the soot, and +withdrawing it, the particles previously adhering to the probe remained +within the eyelashes."—<span class="smcap">Chandler's</span> <i>Travels in Greece.</i></p> + +<p>Dr. Shaw states that among other curiosities that were taken out of the +tombs at Sahara relating to Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common +reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of this +powder.</p> + +<p>In England the same practice is adopted by many <a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>persons that have gray +hair; but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder, +it is employed as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body, +such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous +article.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Turkish Hair Dye</span>.</h4> + +<p>In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly Armenians, who +devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics, and obtain large sums +of money from those desirous of learning this art. Amongst these +cosmetics is a black dye for the hair, which, according to Landerer, is +prepared in the following manner:—</p> + +<p>Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste, which +is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve, upon +which the residue is triturated with water into a paste, and heated +again to dryness. At the same time a metallic mixture, which is brought +from Egypt to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in +Turkish <i>Rastiko-petra</i>, or <i>Rastik-Yuzi</i>, is employed for this purpose. +This metal, which looks like dross, is by some Armenians intentionally +fused, and consists of iron and copper. It obtains its name from its use +for the coloration of the hair, and particularly the eyebrows—for +<i>rastik</i> means eyebrows, and <i>yuzi</i> stone. The fine powder of this metal +is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a +paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it acquires the +blackening property. In some cases this <a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>mass is mixed with, the powder +of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes, and +called <i>harsi</i>, that is, pleasant odor; and of these the principal +ingredient is ambergris. To blacken the hair a little of this dye is +triturated in the hand or between the fingers, with which the hair or +beard is well rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully +black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are +met with in the East among the Turks who use this black dye. Another and +important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein, that the +hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black, when it has been +once dyed with this substance. That the coloring properties of this dye +are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found by +treating the mass with water, may be with certainty assumed.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Litharge Hair Dye</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered litharge,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Quicklime,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Calcined magnesia,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Slake the lime, using as little water as possible to make it +disintegrate, then mix the whole by a sieve.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Another Way</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Slaked lime,</td><td align='left'>3 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>White lead in powder,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Litharge,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork.</p> + +<p><i>Directions</i> to be sold with the above.—"Mix the <a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>powder with enough +water to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush; +completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light +brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight +hours; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act unless it is moist, +it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or +other waterproof cap.</p> + +<p>"After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the +head with plain water; when dry, the hair must be oiled."</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Simple Silver Dye</span>. (<i>Otherwise "Vegetable Dye.</i>")</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitrate of silver,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by +washing it with soda or pearlash and water. The hair must be quite dry +prior to applying the dye, which is best laid on with an old +tooth-brush. This dye does not "strike" for several hours. It needs +scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by +exposing the hair to sunshine and air.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Hair Dye, with Mordant</span>. (<i>Brown.</i>)</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitrate of silver,</td><td align='left'>1 oz., blue bottles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>9 oz. "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>The mordant</i>.—Sulphuret of potassium,</td><td align='left'>1 oz., white bottles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " Water,</td><td align='left'>8 oz. "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Hair Dye, with Mordant</span>. (<i>Black.</i>)</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Nitrate of silver,</td><td align='left'>1 oz., blue bottles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Water,</td><td align='left'>6 oz. "</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>The mordant</i>.—Sulphuret of potassium,</td><td align='left'>1 oz., white bottles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " Water,</td><td align='left'>6 oz. "</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>The mordant is to be applied to the hair first; when dry, the silver +solution.</p> + +<p>Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made, or at least, +well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead of the mordant +acting to make to make the hair black, it will tend to impart a <i>yellow</i> +hue. When the mordant is good, it has a very disagreeable odor, and +although this is the quickest and best dye, its unpleasant smell has +given rise to the</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Inodorous Dye</span>.</h4> + +<p><i>Blue bottles.</i>—Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the +above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes +cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to add +ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the +oxide of silver being redissolved.</p> + +<p><i>White bottles</i>.—Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three +ounces of powdered gall-nuts; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms +the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like +the sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">French Brown Dye</span>.</h4> + +<p><i>Blue Bottles</i>.—Saturated solution of sulphate of copper; to this add +ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as +with the silver in the above), producing the azure liquid.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a><i>White Bottles</i>.—<i>Mordant</i>.—Saturated solution of prussiate of +potass.</p> + +<p>Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in the same +manner as wool.</p> + +<p>There are in the market several other hair dyes, but all of them are but +modifications of the above, possessing no marked advantage.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Lead Dye</span>.</h4> + +<p>Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, may be thus +prepared:—Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassæ as much +freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the +resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water. Care must +be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Quick Depilatory or Rusma</span>. (<i>For removing hair.</i>)</h4> + +<p>As the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper +lip, upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to +beauty, those who are troubled with such physical indications of good +health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory +for removing it.</p> + +<p>This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from +the East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages.</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Best lime slaked,</td><td align='left'>3 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orpiment, in powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lbs.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mix the material by means of a drum sieve; preserve <a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>the same for sale +in well-corked or stoppered bottles.</p> + +<p><i>Directions</i> to be sold with the above. Mix the depilatory powder with +enough water to render it of a creamy consistency; lay it upon the hair +for about five minutes, or until its caustic action upon the skin +renders it necessary to be removed; a similar process to shaving is then +to be gone through, but instead of using a razor, operate with an ivory +or bone paper-knife; then wash the part with plenty of water, and apply +a little cold cream.</p> + +<p>The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated +cannot be given, because there is a physical difference in the nature of +hair. "Raven tresses" require more time than "flaxen locks;" the +sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered. A small feather is +a very good test for its action.</p> + +<p>A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding that I have only +given one formula for depilatory. The receipts might easily have been +increased in number, but not in quality. The use of arsenical compounds +is objectionable, but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of +the compounds. A few compilers of "Receipt Books," "Supplements to +Pharmacopœias," and others, add to the lime "charcoal powder," +"carbonate of potass," "starch," &c.; but what action have these +materials—chemically—upon hair? The simplest depilatory is moistened +quicklime, but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above; +it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom time is no +object.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XIV" id="SECTION_XIV"></a>SECTION XIV.</h2> + +<h3>ABSORBENT POWDERS.</h3> + + +<p>A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent +powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the +skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in +advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can +be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal +adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights +of such powders are used in this country annually. They are principally +composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various +nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc—of Haüy, steatite +(soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. The +most popular is what is termed</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat starch,</td><td align='left'>12 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root powder,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemon,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>3/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " cloves,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Face Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat starch,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose Pink,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>Plain or Unscented Hair Powder</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Is pure wheat starch.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Face Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Starch,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oxide of Bismuth,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Perle Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>French chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oxide of bismuth,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oxide of zinc,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Blanc de Perle</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">French Blanc</span></h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor +from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Liquid Blanc (for theatrical use)</span>.</h4> + +<p>The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely +necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is +incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to +subdue it.</p> + +<p>Madame V——, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than +half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose or orange-flower water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oxide of bismuth,</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Mixed by long trituration.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>Calcined Talc</span></h4> + +<p>Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various +names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rouge and Red Paints</span>.</h4> + +<p>These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by +private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the +complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that +termed</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Bloom of Roses</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Strong liquid ammonia,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Finest carmine,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose (triple),</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow +them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then +add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet +situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine +will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for +sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; +nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less +sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.</p> + +<p>Carmine cannot be manufactured <i>profitably</i> on a small scale for +commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of +Europe! M.<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a> Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without +doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal +operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.</p> + +<p>"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on +the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are +engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being +costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently +made."—<span class="smcap">Dr. Ure</span>.</p> + +<p>In the <i>Encyclopédie Roret</i> will be found no less than a dozen recipes +for preparing carmine; the number of formulæ will convince the most +superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.</p> + +<p>Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of +manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete +success.</p> + +<p>Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; +but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Toilet Rouges</span>.</h4> + +<p>Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc +powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two +ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These +rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the +latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum +tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some +instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon <a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>thick +paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. +This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is +known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has +been imported into this country for many years.</p> + +<p>When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton +wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful +rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from +the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower +(<i>Carthamus tinctorius</i>); from this plant also is made</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Pink Saucers</span>.</h4> + +<p>The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is +removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a +weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated +into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.</p> + +<p>Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the +same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as +Crépon rouge.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XV" id="SECTION_XV"></a>SECTION XV.</h2> + +<h3>TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.</h3> + + +<p>Tooth powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the +teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, +as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of +the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the +act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most +useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful +and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss +of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the +swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect +resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, +and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the +gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the +action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious, +if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder +sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon +the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, +will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in +such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, +spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome <a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>by +adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A +tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish +these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend +such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard +and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble +by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there +to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles +as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, +and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the +following formula:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Mialhe's Tooth Powder</span>.</h4> + +<p>Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen +parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much +as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition.</p> + +<p>His directions for the preparation of this tooth powder, are, to rub +well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, +previously powdered and sifted; and lastly, the essential oils are to be +carefully mixed with the powdered substances. Experience has convinced +him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of +which, will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state. +For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of +the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation:—</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>Mialhe's Dentifrice</span>.</h4> + +<p>Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany +root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture +of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; +essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part.</p> + +<p>The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for +seven or eight days; and after filtration, the other articles are to be +added. A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four +spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the mouth, after the use of +the tooth powder.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphorated Chalk.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered orris-root,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered camphor,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little +spirit, then sift the whole well together. On account of the volatility +of camphor, the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in +boxes lined with tinfoil.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Quinine Tooth Powder.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Starch Powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sulphate of quinine,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>After sifting, it is ready for sale.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>Prepared Charcoal</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder,</td><td align='left'>7 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Prepared chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Catechu,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cassia bark,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Myrrh,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Sift.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Peruvian Bark Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Peruvian bark in powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bole Ammoniac,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris powder,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cassia bark,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered myrrh,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'>3/4 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Homœopathic Chalk</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Powder orris,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " starch,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Cuttle Fish Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Powdered cuttle-fish,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Powder orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of lemons,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Borax and Myrrh Tooth Powder</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Borax powder,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Myrrh powder,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>Farina Piesse's Powder.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris-root,</td><td align='left'>2 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose pink,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Very fine powdered sugar,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of neroli,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " lemons,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " bergamot,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>1/4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rosemary,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Tooth Powder.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Precipitated chalk,</td><td align='left'>1 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose pink,</td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of rose,</td><td align='left'>1 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " santal,</td><td align='left'>1/4 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Opiate Tooth Paste.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Honey,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Chalk,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orris,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose Pink,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of cloves,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " nutmeg,</td><td align='left'>} each,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Simple syrup,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>enough to form a paste.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h3>MOUTH WASHES.</h3> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Violet Mouth Wash.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of orris,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirit,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of almonds,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h4><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>Eau Botot.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tincture of cedar wood,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " myrrh,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rhatany,</td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of peppermint,</td><td align='left'>5 drops.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at least with +pale unsweetened brandy.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Botanic Styptic.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rhatany root, }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum myrrh, } of each,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Whole cloves, }</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Macerate for fourteen days, and strain.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Tincture of Myrrh and Borax.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Spirits of wine,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Borax,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Honey,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum myrrh,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Red sanders wood,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually add +the spirit, which should not be stronger than .920, <i>i.e.</i> proof spirit, +the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Tincture of Myrrh with Eau de Cologne.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Eau de Cologne,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum myrrh,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Macerate for fourteen days, and filter.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Camphorated Eau de Cologne.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Eau de Cologne,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor,</td><td align='left'>5 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a></p> +<h2><a name="SECTION_XVI" id="SECTION_XVI"></a>SECTION XVI.</h2> + +<h3>HAIR WASHES.</h3> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rosemary Water</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rosemary free from stalk,</td><td align='left'>10 lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Water,</td><td align='left'>12 gallons.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rosemary Hair Wash</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rosemary water,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pearlash,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Tinted with brown coloring.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Athenian Water</span>.</h4> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sassafras wood,</td><td align='left'>1/4 lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pearlash,</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel; then, when cold, add +the pearlash and spirit.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Vegetable or Botanic Extract</span>.</h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirits,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'>2 quarts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extrait de fleur d'orange,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " jasmin,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " acacia,</td><td align='left'>} of each,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/4 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " rose,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'> " tubereuse,</td><td align='left'>}</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>This is a very beautifully-scented hair wash. It retails at a price +commensurate with its cost.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rosemary water,</td><td align='left'>2 quarts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Esprit de rose,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of vanilla,</td><td align='left'>1 quart.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Magnesia to clear it,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Filter through paper.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Saponaceous Wash.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Rectified spirit,</td><td align='left'>1 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Extract of rondeletia,</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Transparent soap,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hay saffron,</td><td align='left'>1/2 drachm.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the +rose-water; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the +spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After +standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling. By transmitted +light it is transparent, but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly +and singular wavy appearance when shaken. A similar preparation is +called Egg Julep.</p> + +<h3><span class="smcap"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>Bandolines</span>.</h3> + +<p>Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any +particular form. Some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum +containing wax, made up into rolls, called thence <i>Baton Fixeteur.</i> The +little "feathers" of hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by +the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth. For their formula, see +p. 224, 225.</p> + +<p>The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made +either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also +by boiling quince-seed with water. Perfumers, however, chiefly make +bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exudes from a shrub of that name +which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Rose Bandoline.</span></h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Gum tragacanth,</td><td align='left'>6 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rose-water,</td><td align='left'>1 gallon.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Otto of roses,</td><td align='left'>1/2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a +thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After +about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a +coarse clean linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, and +passed through a linen cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of +consistency; when this is the case, the otto of rose is to be thoroughly +incorporated. The cheap bandoline is made without the otto; for colored +bandoline, it is to be tinted with <a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>ammoniacal solution of carmine, i.e. +<i>Bloom of Roses</i>. See p. 236.</p> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Almond Bandoline</span></h4> + +<p>Is made precisely as the above, scenting with a quarter of an ounce of +otto of almonds in place of the roses.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">"Nor the sweet smell<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of different flowers in odor and in hue<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Can make me any longer story tell."<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Shakspeare.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 203px;"> +<img src="images/image244.png" width="203" height="172" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a></p> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="MANUFACTURE_OF_GLYCERINE" id="MANUFACTURE_OF_GLYCERINE"></a>MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE.</h3> + + +<p>Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by +directly saponifying oil with the oxide of lead, or, on the other, from +the "waste liquor" of soap manufacturers. To obtain glycerine by means +of the first of these methods is the reverse of simple, and at the same +time somewhat expensive; and by means of the second process, the +difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the waste liquor +renders it next to impossible to procure a perfectly pure result. To +meet both these difficulties, and to meet the steadily increasing demand +for glycerine, Dr. Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, +which, he asserts, he has found, by experience, to combine the desirable +advantages of economy as regards time, trouble, and expense. One hundred +pounds of oil, tallow, lard, or stearin are to be placed in a clean +iron-bound barrel, and melted by the direct application of a current of +steam. Whilst still fluid and warm, add to it fifteen pounds of lime, +previously slaked, and made into a milky mixture with two and a half +gallons of water; then cover the vessel, and continue the steaming for +several hours, or until the saponification shall be completed. This may +be known when a <a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright +surface on being scraped with the finger-nail, and at the same time, +breaks with a crackling noise. By this process the fat or oil is +decomposed, its acids uniting with the lime to form insoluble lime-soap, +while the eliminated glycerine remains in solution in the water along +with the excess of the lime. After it has been sufficiently boiled, it +is allowed to cool and to settle, and it is then to be strained.</p> + +<p>The strained liquid contains only the glycerine and excess of lime, and +requires to be carefully concentrated by heated steam. During +evaporation, a portion of the lime is deposited, on account of its +lesser solubility in hot than in cold water. The residue is removed by +treating the evaporated liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, +boiling by heated steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that +may have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting or +straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the precipitated +carbonate of lime, and evaporating still further, as before, if +necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water. As nothing fixed or +injurious is employed in this process, glycerine, prepared in this +manner, may be depended upon for its almost absolute purity.</p> + +<p>M. Jahn's process is as follows:—</p> + +<p>Take of finely-powdered litharge five pounds, and olive oil nine pounds. +Boil them together over a gentle fire, constantly stirring, with the +addition occasionally of a small quantity of warm water, until the +compound has the consistence of plaster. Jahn boils this plaster for +half an hour with an equal weight of water, keeping it at the same time +constantly stirred. When cold, he pours off the supernatant fluid, and +repeats the boiling three times at least with a fresh portion of water. +The sweet fluids which result are mixed, and evaporated to six pounds, +and sulphuretted <a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a>hydrogen conducted through them as long as sulphuret +of lead is precipitated. The liquid filtered from the sulphuret of lead +is to be reduced to a thin syrupy consistence by evaporation. To remove +the brown coloring matter, it must be treated with purified animal +charcoal. However, this agent does not prevent the glycerine becoming +slightly colored upon further evaporation. It possesses also still a +slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which may be removed by diluting +it with water, and by digestion with animal charcoal, and some fresh +burnt-wood charcoal. After filtration, this liquid must be evaporated +until it has acquired a specific gravity of 1.21, when it will be found +to be free from smell, and of a pale yellow color. For the preparation +of glycerine, distilled water is necessary, to prevent it being +contaminated with the impurities of common water. Jahn obtained, by this +method, from the above quantity of lead plaster, upwards of seven ounces +of glycerine.—<i>Archives der Pharmacie</i>.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="TEST_FOR_ALCOHOL_IN_ESSENTIAL_OILS" id="TEST_FOR_ALCOHOL_IN_ESSENTIAL_OILS"></a>TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL OILS.</h3> + + +<p>J.J. Bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash. When to an +ethereal oil, contaminated with alcohol, dry acetate of potash is added, +this salt dissolves in the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the +volatile oil separates. If the oil be free from alcohol, this salt +remains dry therein.</p> + +<p>Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, has suggested the following +method of applying it as the best:—In a dry test-tube, about half an +inch in diameter, and five or six inches long, put no more than eight +grains of powdered <a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>dry acetate of potash; then fill the tube two-thirds +full with the essential oil to be examined. The contents of the tube +must be well stirred with a glass rod, taking care not to allow the salt +to rise above the oil; afterwards set aside for a short time. If the +salt be found at the bottom of the tube dry, it is evident that the oil +contains no spirit. Oftentimes, instead of the dry salt, beneath the oil +is found a clear syrupy fluid, which is a solution of the salt in the +spirit, with which the oil was mixed. When the oil contains only a +little spirit, a small portion of the solid salt will be found under the +syrupy solution. Many essential oils frequently contain a trace of +water, which does not materially interfere with this test, because, +although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby, it still retains +its pulverent form.</p> + +<p>A still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a +water-bath. All the essential oils which have a higher boiling-point +than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the +receiver with only a trace of the oil, where the alcohol may be +recognized by the smell and taste. Should, however, a doubt exist, add +to the distillate a little acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid, +and heat the mixture in a test-tube to the boiling-point, when the +characteristic odor of acetic ether will be manifest, if any alcohol be +present.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="DETECTION_OF_POPPY_AND_OTHER_DRYING_OILS_IN_ALMOND_AND_OLIVE_OILS" id="DETECTION_OF_POPPY_AND_OTHER_DRYING_OILS_IN_ALMOND_AND_OLIVE_OILS"></a>DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS.</h3> + + +<p>It is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from +the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air by the first not +being convertible into elaidic <a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a>acid, consequently it does not become +solid. Professor Wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for +the formation of elaidin, which is applicable for the purpose of +detecting the adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils. He +produces nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with +nitric acid. The vapor of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube +into water, upon which the oil to be tested is placed. If the oil of +almonds or olives contains only a small quantity of poppy oil when thus +treated, it is entirely converted into crystallized elaidin, whilst the +poppy oil swims on the top in drops.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="COLORING_MATTER_OF_VOLATILE_OILS" id="COLORING_MATTER_OF_VOLATILE_OILS"></a>COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE OILS.</h3> + +<h4>BY G.E. SACHSSE.</h4> + + +<p>It is well known that most ethereal oils are colorless; however, there +are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some +yellow. Up to the present time the question has not been decided, +whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a color, +or whether their color is not due to the presence of some coloring +matter which can be removed. It is most probable that their color arises +from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils +can at first, by careful distillation, be obtained colorless, whilst +later the colored portion passes over. Subsequent appearances lead to +the solution of the question, and are certain evidence that ethereal +oils, when they are colored, owe their color to peculiar substances +which, by certain conditions, may be communicated from one oil to +another. When a mixture <a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>of oils of wormwood, lemons, and cloves is +subjected to distillation, the previously green-colored oil of wormwood +passes over, at the commencement, colorless, while, towards the end of +the distillation, after the receiver has been frequently charged, the +oil of cloves distils over in very dense drops of a dark green color. It +therefore appears that the green coloring matter of the oil of wormwood +has been transferred to the oil of cloves.—<i>Zeitschrift für Pharmacie.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ARTIFICIAL_PREPARATION_OF_OIL_OF_CINNAMON" id="ARTIFICIAL_PREPARATION_OF_OIL_OF_CINNAMON"></a>ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF CINNAMON.</h3> + +<h4>BY A. STRECKER.</h4> + + +<p>Some years since, Strecker has shown that styrone, which is obtained +when styracine is treated with potash, is the alcohol of cinnamic acid. +Wolff has converted this alcohol by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid. +The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which +ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of +cinnamic acid, that is, oil of cinnamon. It is only necessary to moisten +platinum black with styrone, and let it remain in the air some days, +when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound +may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the +addition of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is +afterwards procured pure. These crystals also dissolve in nitric acid, +and then form after a few moments crystals of the nitrate of the hyduret +of cinnamyle. The conversion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle by +the action of the platinum black is shown by the following equation:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">C<sub>18</sub>H<sub>10</sub>O<sub>2</sub> + 2 O = C<sub>18</sub>H<sub>8</sub>O<sub>2</sub> + 2 HO.—<i>Comptes Rendus.</i><br /></span> +</div></div><p><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="DETECTION_OF_SPIKE_OIL_AND_TURPENTINE_IN_LAVENDER_OIL" id="DETECTION_OF_SPIKE_OIL_AND_TURPENTINE_IN_LAVENDER_OIL"></a>DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE IN LAVENDER OIL</h3> + +<h4>BY DR. J. GASTELL.</h4> + + +<p>There are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce; one, which is +very dear, and is obtained from the flowers of the <i>Lavandula vera</i>; the +other is much cheaper, and is prepared from the flowers of the +<i>Lavandula spica</i>. The latter is generally termed oil of spike. In the +south of France, whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the +<i>Lavandula vera</i> or <i>Lavandula spica</i>, it is named oil of lavender.</p> + +<p>By the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk and the leaves, +a small quantity of oil is obtained, which is rich in camphor, and is +there called oil of spike. Pure oil of lavender should have a specific +gravity from .876 to .880, and be completely soluble in five parts of +alcohol of a specific gravity of .894. A greater specific gravity shows +that it is mixed with oil of spike; and a less solubility, that it +contains oil of turpentine.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="DIFFERENT_ORANGE-FLOWER" id="DIFFERENT_ORANGE-FLOWER"></a>DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE</h3> + +<h4>BY M. LEGUAY.</h4> + + +<p>There are three sorts of orange-flower waters found in commerce. The +first is distilled from the flowers; the second is made with distilled +water and neroli; and the third is distilled from the leaves, the stems, +and the young unripe fruit of the orange tree. The first may be easily +distinguished by the addition of a few drops of sulphuric <a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a>acid to some +of the water in a tube; a fine rose color is almost immediately +produced. The second also gives the same color when it is freshly +prepared; but after a certain time, two or three months at the farthest, +this color is no longer produced, and the aroma disappears completely. +The third is not discolored by the addition of the sulphuric acid; it +has scarcely any odor, and that rather an odor of the lemon plant than +of orange-flowers.—<i>Bulletin de la Société Pharmaceutique d'Indre et +Loire.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="A_FORMULA_FOR_CONCENTRATED" id="A_FORMULA_FOR_CONCENTRATED"></a>A FORMULA FOR CONCENTRATED ELDER-FLOWER WATER.</h3> + + +<p>Krembs recommends the following process for making a concentrated +elder-flower water, from which he states the ordinary water can be +extemporaneously prepared, of excellent quality, and of uniform +strength:—2 lbs. of the flowers are to be distilled with water until +that which passes into the receiver has lost nearly all perfume. This +will generally happen when from 15 to 18 pounds have passed over. To the +distillate, 2 lbs. of alcohol are to be added, and the mixture distilled +until about 5 lbs. are collected. This liquor contains all the odor of +the flowers. To make the ordinary water, 2 ounces of the concentrated +water are to be added to 10 ounces of distilled water.—<i>Buchner's +Report.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="PRACTICAL_REMARKS_ON_SPIRIT_OF_WINE" id="PRACTICAL_REMARKS_ON_SPIRIT_OF_WINE"></a>PRACTICAL REMARKS ON SPIRIT OF WINE.</h3> + +<h4>BY THOMAS ARNALL.</h4> + + +<p>The strength of spirit of wine is, by law, regulated by proof spirit +(sp. gr. .920) as a standard; and accordingly <a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>as it is either stronger +or weaker than the above, it is called so much per cent. above or below +proof. The term <i>per cent.</i> is used in this instance in a rather +peculiar sense. Thus, spirit of wine at 56 per cent. overproof, +signifies that 100 gallons of it are equal to 156 gallons of proof +spirit; while a spirit at 20 per cent. underproof, signifies that 100 +gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. The rectified spirit of the +Pharmacopœia is 56 per cent. overproof, and may be reduced to proof +by strictly adhering to the directions there given, viz., to mix five +measures with three of water. The result, however, will not be eight +measures of proof spirit; in consequence of the <i>contraction</i> which +ensues, there will be a deficiency of about ℥iv in each +gallon. This must be borne in mind in preparing tinctures.</p> + +<p>During a long series of experiments on the preparation of ethers, it +appeared a desideratum to find a ready method of ascertaining how much +spirit of any density would be equal to one chemical equivalent of +absolute alcohol. By a modification of a rule employed by the Excise, +this question may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows:—</p> + +<p>To reduce from any given strength to any required strength, <i>add</i> the +<i>overproof</i> per centage <i>to</i> 100, or <i>subtract</i> the <i>underproof</i> per +centage <i>from</i> 100. Multiply the result by the quantity of spirit, and +divide the product by the number obtained by <i>adding</i> the <i>required</i> per +centage overproof, or <i>subtracting</i> the <i>required</i> per centage +underproof, to or from 100, as the case may be. The result will give the +measure of the spirit at the strength required.</p> + +<p>Thus, suppose you wished to reduce 10 gallons of spirit, at 54 +overproof, down to proof, add 54 to 100 = 154; multiply by the quantity, +10 gallons (154 × 10) = 1540. The <a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a>required strength being proof, of +course there is nothing either to add to or take from 100; therefore, +1540 divided by 100 = 15.4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons +must be made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by the addition +of water.</p> + +<p>To ascertain what quantity of spirit of any given strength will contain +one equivalent of absolute alcohol. Add the overproof per centage of the +given spirit to 100, as before; and with the number thus obtained divide +4062.183. The result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four +equivalents (46 × 4).</p> + +<p><i>Example.</i>—How much spirit at 54 per cent. overproof is equal to 1 +equivalent of absolute alcohol?</p> + +<p>Here,</p> + +<p> +54 + 100 = 154 and 4062.183 = 26.3778 galls., or 26 galls. 3 pts.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 9.5em;">————</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 10.5em;">154</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>which, divided by 4, gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 15 oz.</p> + +<p>Suppose the spirit to be 60 overproof,—</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 3em;">4062.183 {one-fourth of which is equal</span><br /> +then ————— = 25.388 gallons, {to 6 gallons, 2 pints,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">(100 + 60) {15-1/2 oz.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>This rule is founded on the following data. As a gallon of water weighs +10 lbs., it is obvious that the specific gravity of any liquid +multiplied by 10 will give the weight of one gallon. The specific +gravity of absolute alcohol is 0.793811; hence, the weight of one gallon +will be 7.93811 lbs., and its strength is estimated at 75.25 overproof.</p> + +<p> +4 equivalents of alcohol = 46 × 4 = 184,<br /> +<br /> +and<br /> +<br /> +23.17936 gallons × 7.93811 lbs. per gallon, also = 184.0003094.<br /> +</p> + +<p>Hence it appears that 23.17936 gallons of absolute alcohol <a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>are equal to +4 equivalents. By adding the overproof per centage (75.25) to 100, and +multiplying by the quantity (23.17936 gallons) we get the constant +number 4062.183.</p> + +<p>The rule might have been calculated so as to show <i>at once</i> the +equivalent, without dividing by 4; but it would have required several +more places of decimals; it will give the required quantity to a +fraction of a fluid drachm.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="PURIFICATION_OF_SPIRITS" id="PURIFICATION_OF_SPIRITS"></a>PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS BY FILTRATION.</h3> + +<h4>BY MR. W. SCHAEFFER.</h4> + + +<p>Instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the +purification of spirits, Mr. Schaeffer proposes the use of a filter. In +a suitable vessel, the form of which is not material, a filtering bed is +constructed in the following manner:—On a false perforated bottom, +covered with woollen or other fabric, a layer of about six inches of +well-washed and very clean river sand is placed; next about twelve +inches of granular charcoal, preferring that made from birch; on the +charcoal is placed a layer of about one inch of wheat, boiled to such an +extent as to cause it to swell as large as possible, and so that it will +readily crush between the fingers. Above this is laid about ten inches +of charcoal, then about one inch of broken oyster shells, and then about +two inches more of charcoal, over which is placed a layer of woollen or +other fabric, and over it a perforated partition, on to which the spirit +to be filtered is poured; the filter is kept covered, and in order that +the spirit may flow freely into the compartment of the filter below the +filtering materials, a tube connects such lower compartment with the +upper compartment of the filter, so that the air <a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a>may pass freely +between the lower and upper compartments of the filter. On each, of the +several strata above described, it is desirable to place a layer of +filtering paper.</p> + +<p>The charcoal suitable for the above purpose is not such as is obtained +in the ordinary mode of preparation. It is placed in a retort or oven, +and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed off, and the +flame become red. The charcoal is then cooled in water, in which +carbonate of potash has previously been dissolved, in the proportion of +two ounces of carbonate to fifty gallons of water. The charcoal being +deprived of the water is then reduced to a granular state, in which +condition it is ready for use.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ON_ESSENTIAL_OIL_OR_OTTO_OF_LEMONS" id="ON_ESSENTIAL_OIL_OR_OTTO_OF_LEMONS"></a>ON ESSENTIAL OIL OR OTTO OF LEMONS.</h3> + +<h4>BY JOHN S. COBB.</h4> + +<p>(<i>Read before the Chemical Discussion Society.</i>)</p> + + +<p>I have recently made some experiments with oil of lemons, of which the +following is a short account:—</p> + +<p>Being constantly annoyed by the deposit and alteration in my essence of +lemons, I have tried various methods of remedying the inconvenience.</p> + +<p>I first tried redistilling it, but besides the loss consequent on +distilling small quantities, the flavor is thereby impaired. As the oil +became brighter when heated, I anticipated that all its precipitable +matter would be thrown down at a low temperature, and I applied a +freezing mixture, keeping the oil at zero for some hours. No such +change, however, took place.</p> + +<p>The plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best <a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a>which I had +arrived at, was to shake up the oil with a little boiling water, and to +leave the water in the bottle; a mucilaginous preparation forms on the +top of the water, and acquires a certain tenacity, so that the oil may +be poured off to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit. +Perhaps cold water would answer equally well, were it carefully agitated +with the oil and allowed some time to settle. A consideration of its +origin and constitution, indeed, strengthens this opinion; for although +lemon otto is obtained both by distillation and expression, that which +is usually found in commerce is prepared by removing the "flavedo" of +lemons with a rasp, and afterwards expressing it in a hair sack, +allowing the filtrate to stand, that it may deposit some of its +impurities, decanting and filtering. Thus obtained it still contains a +certain amount of mucilaginous matter, which undergoes spontaneous +decomposition, and thus (acting, in short, as a ferment) accelerates a +similar change in the oil itself. If this view of its decomposition be a +correct one, we evidently, in removing this matter by means of the +water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain the same +result as we should by distillation, without its waste or deterioration +in flavor.</p> + +<p>I am, however, aware that some consider the deposit to be modified +resin.<a name="FNanchor_H_8" id="FNanchor_H_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_H_8" class="fnanchor">[H]</a> Some curious experiments of Saussure have shown that volatile +oils absorb oxygen immediately they have been drawn from the plant, and +are partially converted <a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a>into a resin, which remains dissolved in the +remainder of the essence.</p> + +<p>He remarked that this property of absorbing oxygen gradually increases, +until a maximum is attained, and again diminishes after a certain lapse +of time. In the oil of lavender this maximum remained only seven days, +during each of which it absorbed seven times its volume of oxygen. In +the oil of lemons the maximum was not attained until at the end of a +month; it then lasted twenty-six days; during each of which it absorbed +twice its volume of oxygen. The oil of turpentine did not attain the +maximum for five months, it then remained for one month, during which +time it absorbed daily its own volume of oxygen.</p> + +<p>It is the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen, and remaining +dissolved in the essence, which destroys its original flavor. The oil of +lemons presents a very great analogy with that of oil of turpentine, so +far as regards its transformations, and its power of rotating a ray of +polarized light. Authorities differ as regards this latter property. +Pereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained by distillation with +water, from American turpentine, has a molecular power of right-handed +rotation, while the French oil of turpentine had a left-handed rotation. +Oil of lemons rotates a ray of light to the right, but in France a +distilled oil of lemons, sold as scouring drops for removing spots of +grease, possesses quite the opposite power of rotation, and has lost all +the original peculiar flavor of the oil. Oil of lemons combines with +hydrochloric acid to form an artificial camphor, just in the same manner +as does oil of turpentine, but its atom is only one half that of the oil +of turpentine. The artificial camphor of oil of lemons is represented by +the formula, C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>8</sub>HCl; the artificial camphor of oil of turpentine +by C<sub>20</sub>H<sub>16</sub>HCl.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>According to M. Biot, the camphor formed by the oil of lemons does not +exercise any action on polarized light, whilst the oil of lemons itself +rotates a ray to the right. The camphor from oil of turpentine, on the +contrary, does exercise on the polarized ray the same power as the oil +possessed while in its isolated state, of rotating to the left. These +molecular properties establish an essential difference between the oils +of turpentine and lemons, and may serve to detect adulteration and +fraud. It is also a curious fact, that from the decomposition of these +artificial camphors by lime, volatile oils may be obtained by +distillation, isomeric with the original oils from which the camphors +were formed; but in neither case has the new product any action on +polarized light.</p> + +<p>In conclusion, I would recommend that this oil, as well as all other +essential oils, be kept in a cool, dark place, where no very great +changes of temperature occur.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="BENZOIC_ACID_AND_TESTS_FOR_ITS_PURITY" id="BENZOIC_ACID_AND_TESTS_FOR_ITS_PURITY"></a>BENZOIC ACID, AND TESTS FOR ITS PURITY.</h3> + +<h4>BY W. BASTICK.</h4> + + +<p>Dr. Mohr's process for obtaining benzoic acid, which is adopted by the +Prussian Pharmacopœia, unquestionably has the reputation of being the +best. According to this process, coarsely-powdered gum benzoin is to be +strewed on the flat bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of +nine inches, and a height of about two inches. On the surface of the pot +is spread a piece of filtering paper, which is fastened to its rim by +starch paste. A cylinder of very thick paper is attached by means of a +string to the top of <a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a>the iron pot. Heat is then applied by placing the +pot on a plate covered with sand, over the mouth of a furnace. It must +remain exposed to a gentle fire from four to six hours. Mohr usually +obtains about an ounce and a half of benzoic acid from twelve ounces of +gum benzoin by the first sublimation. As the gum is not exhausted by the +first operation, it may be bruised when cold and again submitted to the +action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid will sublime from +it. This acid thus obtained, is not perfectly pure and white, and Mohr +states that it is a question, in a medicinal and perfumery point of +view, whether it is so valuable when perfectly pure, as when it contains +a small portion of a fragrant volatile oil, which rises with it from the +gum in the process of sublimation.</p> + +<p>The London Pharmacopœia directs that it shall be prepared by +sublimation, and does not prescribe that it shall be free from this oil, +to which it principally owes its agreeable odor.</p> + +<p>By the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid is not +volatilized. What remains in the resin may be separated by boiling it +with caustic lime, and precipitating the acid from the resulting +benzoate of lime with hydrochloric acid. Benzoic acid can be obtained +also in the wet way, and the resin yields a greater product in this +process than in the former; yet it has a less perfumery value, because +it is free from the volatile oil which, as above stated, gives it its +peculiar odor. The wet method devised by Scheele is as follows:—Make +one ounce of freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces +of hot water. To the milk of lime, four ounces of powdered benzoin and +thirty ounces of water are to be added, and the mixture boiled for half +an hour, and stirred during this operation, and afterwards strained +through linen. The <a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>residue must be a second time boiled with twenty +ounces of water and strained, and a third time with ten ounces; the +fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to one-fourth of their +volume, and sufficient hydrochloric acid added to render them slightly +acid. When quite cold, the crystals are to be separated from the fluid +by means of a linen strainer, upon which they are to be washed with cold +water, and pressed, and then dissolved in hot distilled water, from +which the crystals separate on cooling. When hydrochloric acid is added +to a cold concentrated solution of the salts of benzoic acid, it is +precipitated as a white powder. If the solution of the salts of this +acid is too dilute and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid +will be separated. However, the weaker the solution is, and the more +slowly it is cooled, the larger will be the crystals of this acid. In +the preparation of this acid in the wet way, lime is to be preferred to +every other base, because it forms insoluble combinations with the +resinous constituents of the benzoin, and because it prevents the +gum-resin from conglomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an +excess of this base is but slightly soluble.</p> + +<p>Stoltze has recommended a method by which all the acid can be removed +from the benzoin:—The resin is to be dissolved in spirit, to which is +to be added a watery solution of carbonate of soda, decomposed +previously by alcohol. The spirit is to be removed by distillation, and +the remaining watery solution, from which the resin has been separated +by filtration, treated with dilute sulphuric acid, to precipitate the +benzoic acid. This method gives the greatest quantity of acid, but is +attended with a sacrifice of time and alcohol, which renders it in an +economical point of view inferior to the above process of Scheele. It +is so far valuable, that the total acid contents of the resin can be +determined by it.</p> + +<p>Dr. Gregory considers the following process for obtaining benzoic acid +the most productive. Dissolve benzoin in strong alcohol, by the aid of +heat, and add to the solution, whilst hot, hydrochloric acid, in +sufficient quantity to precipitate the resin. When the mixture is +distilled, the benzoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether. +Distillation must be continued as long as any ether passes over. Water +added towards the end of the operation will facilitate the expulsion of +the ether from the retort. When the ether ceases to pass over, the hot +water in the retort is filtered, which deposits benzoic acid on cooling. +The benzoic ether and all the distilled liquids are now treated with +caustic potash until the ether is decomposed, and the solution is heated +to boiling, and super-saturated with hydrochloric acid, which +afterwards, on cooling, deposits, in crystals, benzoic acid.</p> + +<p>Benzoic acid, as it exists in the resin, is the natural production of +the plant from which the resin is derived. It may also be produced +artificially. Abel found that when cumole (C<sub>18</sub>H<sub>12</sub>) was treated +with nitric acid, so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several +days, this hydro-carbon was converted into benzoic acid. Guckelberger +has, by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese and sulphuric +acid, obtained as one of the products benzoic acid. Albumen, fibrin, and +gelatin yielded similar results when treated as above. Wöhler has +detected benzoic acid in Canadian castor, along with salicin. It is also +formed by the oxidation of the volatile oil of bitter almonds. Benzoate +of potash results when chloride of benzoyle is treated with caustic +potash. Benzoic acid in the animal economy is converted into hippuric +acid, which may by the action of acids, be reconverted into benzoic +acid.</p> + +<p>Benzoic acid should be completely volatile, without leaving any ash or +being carbonized when heated. When dissolved in warm water, to which a +little nitric acid has been added, nitrate of silver and chloride of +barium should produce no precipitates. Oxalate of potash should give no +turbidity to an ammoniacal solution of this acid. When heated with an +excess of caustic potash it should evolve no smell of ammonia, +otherwise, it has been adulterated with sal ammoniac. In spirit, benzoic +acid is easily soluble, and requires 200 parts of cold and 20 parts of +boiling water to dissolve one part of it.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ON_THE_COLORING-MATTERS_OF_FLOWERS" id="ON_THE_COLORING-MATTERS_OF_FLOWERS"></a>ON THE COLORING-MATTERS OF FLOWERS.</h3> + +<h4>BY FREMY AND CLOEZ.</h4> + + +<p>Chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of the coloring +matters of flowers. Their investigation involves difficulties which +cannot be mistaken. The matters which color flowers are uncrystallized; +they frequently change by the action of the reagents employed for their +preparation; and, also, very brilliantly-colored flowers owe their color +to very small quantities of coloring matter.</p> + +<p>On the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several opinions have +been expressed. Some observers have assumed that flowers owe their color +to only two coloring matters, one of which is termed anthocyan, and the +other anthoxanthine. Others will find a relation between the green +coloring of leaves, the chlorophylle, and the coloring matters of +flowers. They support their opinion generally on the results <a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>of the +elementary analysis of those different bodies; but all chemists know +that chlorophylle has not yet been prepared in a pure condition. +Probably, it retains various quantities of fatty and albuminous bodies. +Further, the coloring matters of flowers are scarcely known, so that it +is impossible to establish relations supported by the necessarily +uncertain composition of impure bodies.</p> + +<p>Some time since the blue color of flowers was ascribed to the presence +of indigo; but Chevreul has shown, in a certain way, that the blue +substance of flowers is always reddened by acids; and that with indigo +it is quite different, which, as is known, retains its blue color even +when the strongest acids are allowed to act on it.</p> + +<p>It is thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have heretofore +only in a superficial manner been examined, and that it is important to +again undertake their complete examination, as these bodies are +interesting to the chemist, because they are employed as reagents in the +laboratory for the recognition of alkalies; and by an improved knowledge +of them the florist might find the way by which he could give to +cultivated flowers various colors.</p> + +<p>We have believed that before undertaking their elementary analysis, +methods must be carefully sought for which can be followed for the +obtainment of the coloring matters of flowers, and that it should be +proved whether these substances are to be considered as independent +bodies, or whether they proceed from one and the same matter, which is +changed in various ways by the juices of the plant.</p> + +<p>We now publish the results of our first investigations.</p> + +<p><i>Blue Coloring Matter of Flowers (Cyanine).</i>—The blue coloring matter +of flowers we propose to call cyanine. To obtain this substance we treat +the petals of <i>Centauria cyanus</i>,<a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a> <i>Viola odorata</i>, or <i>Iris +pseudacorus</i>, with boiling alcohol, by which the flowers are +decolorized; and the liquid acquires immediately a fine blue color.</p> + +<p>If the coloring matter is allowed to remain some time in contact with +alcohol, it is perceived that the blue of the liquid gradually +disappears, and soon a yellow brown coloration takes its place. The +coloring matter has in this case suffered an actual reduction by the +prolonged action of the alcohol, but it will again assume its original +color when the alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air. Nevertheless, +the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too long with the +coloring matter, because the alcoholic extract will not then again +assume its blue coloration by the action of oxygen.</p> + +<p>The residue remaining from the evaporation of the alcohol is treated +with water, which separates a fatty and resinous substance. The watery +solution which contains the coloring matter is then precipitated by +neutral acetate of lead. The precipitate, which possesses a beautiful +green color, can be washed with plenty of water, and then decomposed +with sulphuretted hydrogen; the coloring matter passes into the watery +solution, which is carefully evaporated in a water-bath; the residue is +again dissolved in absolute alcohol; and lastly, the alcoholic solution +is mixed with ether, which precipitates the cyanine in the form of blue +flocks.</p> + +<p>Cyanine is uncrystallizable, soluble in water and alcohol, insoluble in +ether; acids, and acid salts color it immediately red; by alkalies it +is, as known, colored green. Cyanine appears to behave as an acid, at +least it forms with lime, baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green +compounds insoluble in water.</p> + +<p>Bodies absorbing oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphorous <a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a>acid, and +alcohols, decolorize it; under the influence of oxygen its color is +restored.</p> + +<p>We must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beautiful blue substance +from <i>Centauria cyanus</i> by treatment with absolute alcohol.</p> + +<p><i>Rose-red Coloring Matter.</i>—We have employed alcohol to extract the +substance which colors rose-red certain dahlias, roses, pœonias, &c. +For the procuration of this coloring matter the method pursued is +exactly as that for the preparation of cyanine.</p> + +<p>By an attentive comparison of the properties of this coloring matter +with those of cyanine, we have found that the rose-red coloring matter +is the same as the blue, or at least results from a modification of the +same independent principle. It appears in the rose-red modification, +when the juice of the plant, with which it exists in contact, possesses +an acid reaction. We have always observed this acid reaction in the +juices of plants with red or rose-red coloration, while the blue juices +of plants have always exhibited an alkaline reaction.</p> + +<p>We have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored flowers which are +cultivated in the Paris Museum to the influence of alkalies, and have +seen that they first become blue and then green by their action.</p> + +<p>It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those of the +<i>Mallow</i>, and in particular those of the <i>Hibiscus Syriacus</i>, acquire by +fading a blue and then a green coloration, which change, as we have +found, depends on the decomposition of an organic nitrogenous substance, +which is found very frequently in the petals. This body generates as it +decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the flowers the blue or green +color. By action of weak acids, the petals can be restored to their +rose-red color.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>The alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also be +observed when the petals are very rapidly dried, for example, in +<i>vacuo</i>, by which it cannot be easily assumed that a nitrogenous body +has undergone decomposition to the evolution of ammonia. But, before all +things, it must be mentioned that in this case the modification of color +passes into violet, and never arrives at green; and, further, that it is +always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid, which we have +detected by a direct experiment. Petals which were before rose-red, and +have become violet by slight drying, evolve carbonic acid, and on that +account it may be assumed that the rose-red color is produced in the +petals by this carbonic acid, and that by its expulsion the petals +assume the blue color, by which the flowers with neutral juices are +characterized.</p> + +<p>We believe that we are able to speak with certainty that flowers with a +rose-red, violet, or blue color, owe their coloration to one and the +same substance, but which is modified in various ways by the influence +of the juices of plants.</p> + +<p>Scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened by an acid, but in +such cases this substance is mixed with a yellow coloring matter which +we will now describe.</p> + +<p><i>Yellow Coloring Matter.</i>—The simplest experiments show that no analogy +exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow and that of +which we have already spoken. The agents which generate so easily with +cyanine, the rose-red, violet, or green coloration, cannot in any case +impart these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers.</p> + +<p>By the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers, we have +ascertained that they owe their coloration to two substances, which +differ from one another in their properties, and appear not to be +derived from the same independent principle. One is completely insoluble +in water, <a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a>which we have termed xanthine, a name which Runge has given +to a yellow matter from madder. As this name has not been accepted in +science, we have employed it to denote one of the coloring matters of +yellow flowers. The other substance is very soluble in water, and is by +us termed xantheine.</p> + +<p><i>Xanthine, or the Yellow Coloring Matter insoluble in water.</i>—We have +prepared this coloring matter from many yellow flowers, but chiefly from +<i>Helianthus annuus</i>.</p> + +<p>To obtain it we treat the flowers with boiling absolute alcohol, which +dissolves the coloring matter in the heat, and by cooling almost +completely allows it again to precipitate. The yellow deposit which is +obtained in this way, is not pure xanthine, as it contains a rather +considerable quantity of oil. To separate this oil we have recourse to a +moderate saponification; thus, we heat the yellow precipitate with a +small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the +xanthine, which even contains the xanthine dissolved. As the coloring +matter is soluble in the soap solution, we do not treat the mass with +water, but decompose it with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the +fatty acids resulting from the saponification. This precipitate we treat +with cold alcohol, which leaves behind the fatty acids, and dissolves +the xanthine. This substance is a fine yellow color, insoluble in water, +but soluble in alcohol and ether, which are thereby colored golden +yellow. It appears to be uncrystallizable, and possesses the general +properties of resins.</p> + +<p>Xanthine, in combination with cyanine, modified by the various juices of +plants, communicates in variable proportions orange-yellow, scarlet-red, +and red colors to flowers.</p> + +<p><i>Xantheine, or the Coloring Matter soluble in water.</i>—By <a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a>the +preparation of the substance which colors yellow certain dahlias, it is +at once perceived that it has no analogy to xanthine. The latter is as +known insoluble in water, while the coloring matter under consideration +is readily soluble in water.</p> + +<p>To obtain the xanthine we treat the petals of yellow flowering dahlias +with alcohol, which quickly dissolves the yellow coloring matter, +besides the fat and resin. The solution is evaporated to dryness, and +the residue treated with water, whereby the fat and resin are separated. +The water is again evaporated to dryness, and the residue treated with +absolute alcohol. The resulting solution diluted with water is mixed +with neutral acetate of lead, which precipitates the coloring matters. +The lead precipitate is then decomposed with sulphuric acid, upon which +the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water is purified by +alcohol.</p> + +<p>Xantheine is soluble in water, alcohol, and ether, but crystallizes from +none of these solutions. Alkalies color it intensely brown. Its power of +coloration is considerable. It dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone, +which is without brilliancy. Acids again destroy the brown coloration +produced by alkalies. Xantheine combines with most metallic bases, and +forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble lakes.</p> + +<p>The facts here related agree with all which has been previously observed +regarding the coloring matters of flowers. It is known that blue flowers +can become red, and even white, where their coloring matter is +destroyed, but never yellow—and <i>vice versâ</i>. These three coloring +matters can generate the colors either alone or by admixture, which are +seen in flowers; but whether they are the only matters which color +flowers, we are at present unable to determine.—<i>Journal de +Pharmacie.</i></p><p><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="IMPROVED_PROCESS_FOR" id="IMPROVED_PROCESS_FOR"></a>IMPROVED PROCESS FOR BLEACHING BEES'-WAX AND THE FATTY ACIDS.</h3> + +<h4>BY MR. G.F. WILSON.</h4> + + +<p>This improved process consists of two parts:—1st, the application of +highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters under treatment, by which +means the requisite heat for melting these substances is obtained, and +at the same time the atmosphere is thereby excluded; the heated steam so +applied in its passage off, carries with it the offensive smells given +off by the fatty matters, and being made to traverse a pipe or passage +up or along which gaseous chlorine is allowed to flow, a complete +disinfection of the offensive products is thereby effected. 2dly, the +treating of bees'-wax in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees'-wax, with +compounds of chlorine and oxygen, preferring to employ that disengaged +from chlorate of potash by treating it with sulphuric acid. For this +purpose, Mr. Wilson takes at the rate, say, of a ton of yellow +bees'-wax, and melts and boils it up with free steam for about half an +hour. It is then allowed to stand a short time, and is then decanted +into another vessel provided with a steam-pipe to emit free steam; about +20 lbs. of chlorate of potash is added, and the steam turned on; 80 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, diluted with a like weight of water, is then +gradually added. The matters are allowed to stand for a short time, and +are then decanted into another vessel, and again boiled up with free +steam, and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid. The +bees'-wax is then decanted into a receiver, and is ready for use. The +bees'-wax may, before undergoing these processes, be combined and boiled +up with a hard fatty acid, and then treated as above described.</p><p><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="CHEMICAL_EXAMINATION_OF_NAPLES" id="CHEMICAL_EXAMINATION_OF_NAPLES"></a>CHEMICAL EXAMINATION OF NAPLES SOAP.</h3> + + +<p>A. Faiszt has submitted this celebrated shaving soap to analysis. He +states that it is made by saponifying mutton fat with lime, and then +separating the fatty acids from the soap thus formed, by means of a +mineral acid. These fatty acids are afterwards combined with ordinary +caustic potash to produce the Naples soap. He found that 100 parts of +this soap contained</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Parts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fatty acids,</td><td align='left'>57.14</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Potash combined with the fatty acids,</td><td align='left'>10.39</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sulphate of potash, chloride of potassium, with a trace of carbonate of potash,</td><td align='left'>4.22</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Silica, &c.,</td><td align='left'>0.46</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Water,</td><td align='left'>27.68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>———</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>99.89</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i>Gewerbeblatt aus Wurttemberg.</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="MANUFACTURE_OF_SOAP" id="MANUFACTURE_OF_SOAP"></a>MANUFACTURE OF SOAP.</h3> + + +<p>The removal of the duty from soap, and the consequent emancipation of +this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the Excise, has given +a fresh impetus to the manufacture of this important article of daily +use, and enabled some processes to be practically carried out in +England, which, previous to the removal of the duty, could not be +adopted in this part of her Majesty's dominions.</p> + +<p>It will doubtless appear strange to those unacquainted <a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a>with the +circumstances, that owing to the mode of levying the duty by +admeasurement, and not by actual weight, the maker of a particular kind +of soap was debarred the privilege of manufacturing in this country. +Fortunately for him, the manufacture of soap being free from all Excise +restrictions in Ireland, he was enabled to carry out his process in the +sister kingdom, whence it was exported to England, and admitted here on +payment of the Customs' duty, which was the same as the Excise duty on +its manufacture here. All this roundabout method of doing business is +now done away with, and no restriction now exists to mar the peace of +the soap manufacturer.</p> + +<p>Amongst various new processes lately introduced is that of Mr. H.C. +Jennings, which is practically carried out in the following manner:—</p> + +<p>Combine 1000 lbs. of stearic or margaric acid, as free from elaine or +oleine as possible, or palmatine, or any vegetable or animal stearine or +margarine, at the temperature of 212° Fahr., with a solution of +bicarbonate of potash or soda, specific gravity 1500. Constantly stir or +mix until an intimate combination is obtained, and that the elements +will not part when tried upon glass or any other similar substance. When +the mass is cooled down to about 60° Fahr. add one pound per cent. of +liquor ammoniæ, specific gravity 880, and one pound per cent. of +strongest solution of caustic potash; these are to be added gradually, +and fully mixed or stirred until perfectly combined. Dissolve 15 to 18 +pounds per cent. of common resin of commerce, by boiling it with a +solution of subcarbonate of potash and common soda of commerce, in equal +parts, as much as will give the solution a specific gravity of about +1800, when boiling hot. Mix these perfectly with the above-mentioned +stearic or margaric acids, and carbonated alkali; then add a strong +<a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a>solution of caustic potash or soda, until a perfect saponification is +produced. The dose of caustic alkali will much depend upon the purity of +the stearine or margarine employed. The separation is now effected by +using common salt, or sulphate of soda, &c., as is known and practised +by soap manufacturers. If the soap intended to be produced is to be +colorless, no resin must be employed, and a larger dose of liquor +ammoniæ and caustic alkali must be used, according to the dryness of the +stearine matters to be operated upon.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="A_SIMPLE_AND_CERTAIN_METHOD_TO_DETERMINE" id="A_SIMPLE_AND_CERTAIN_METHOD_TO_DETERMINE"></a>A SIMPLE AND CERTAIN METHOD TO DETERMINE THE COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP.</h3> + +<h4>BY DR. ALEXANDER MÜLLER.</h4> + + +<p>In consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are +determined in one portion of the soap, and the alkali by the +incineration of another, I consider the following method is not unworthy +of publication, because it appears to afford quicker and more correct +results by reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation. It is +available principally for soda soaps, which are the most common; but it +may be also employed with corresponding alterations for soaps which have +other bases.</p> + +<p>A piece of soap weighing two or three grammes is dissolved in a tared +beaker glass of about 160 cubic centimetres capacity with 80 to 100 +cubic centimetres of water, by heat, in a water-bath, and then three or +four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as much as is +necessary to decompose the soap, added from a burette. When, <a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>after +repeated agitation, the fatty acids have separated in a transparent +clear stratum from the aqueous solution, it is allowed to cool, and then +the contents of the beaker glass are placed in a moistened filter, which +has been previously dried at 212° Fahr. and weighed. The contents of the +filter are washed until their acid reaction disappears. In the meanwhile +the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath, so that, it being already +dry, may support the washed and partly dry filter, which is laid on the +mouth of the glass as if it were in the funnel. The fatty acids soon +pass through the paper, and for the most part flow ultimately to the +bottom of the beaker glass; the increase of weight of which, after +cooling, and the subtraction of the weight of the filter, gives the +quantity of fatty acids present in the soap. A second drying and +weighing is not necessary, if on the cold sides of the interior of the +glass no damp is to be observed, which is occasioned by a trace of water +still present. If the quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap +is considerable, it may be easily found by incinerating the filter and +determining the weight of the residue.</p> + +<p>The fluid runs from the fatty acids on the filter, which, with the +washings, has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker glass, is +colored with tincture of litmus, and decomposed with a test alkaline +solution until the blue color appears. The difference of the quantity of +alkali required to neutralize the sulphuric acid, and the quantity of +sulphuric acid used in the first instance, allows a calculation to be +made as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap, for example:—</p> + +<p> +23.86 grms. of soap (partly cocoa-nut oil soap).<br /> +17.95 " fatty acids with filter.<br /> +04.44 " filter.<br /> +-----<br /> +13.51 grms. of hydrates of fatty acids = 56.62 per cent.<br /> +<br /> +28.00 cub. cent. of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the<br /><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">decomposition of the soap, of which 100 cub. cent.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">represent 2982 grms. of carbonate of soda.</span><br /> +<br /> +17.55 cub. cent. of alkaline fluid, which were used for the<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">saturation of the above acid, and of which 100 cub.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">cent. saturate an equal quantity of that acid.</span><br /> +----<br /> +10.45 cub. cent. of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">contained in the soap, representing 0.1823 grms. of</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">soda = 7.64 per cent.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>A determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in another portion +of soap 9.57 per cent. of soda, because the sulphate of soda and +chloride of sodium present in the soap gave up their alkali.</p> + +<p>The alkaline fluid applied by me was a saccharine solution of lime, +which can be naturally replaced by a solution of soda, and must be if +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be +determined in the following way:—</p> + +<p>The fluid again exactly neutralized with alkali is evaporated to +dryness, and the residue gently heated to redness. As in the above +manipulation, the fluid was not heated to the boiling point, the +original chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda are contained in the +weighed residue, besides the soda of the soap and that which has been +added with the sulphuric acid, forming sulphate of soda. A second +exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the whole residue +into sulphate of soda, and from the increase of weight, by a comparison +of the equivalents of NaCl and NaO, SO<sub>3</sub> the quantity of the former +may be decided. According to the equivalents which Kopp furnished in +1850, the increase of weight to the chloride of sodium is as 1:4.68. The +original sulphate of soda must be, lastly, found <a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>by the subtraction of +the same salt formed plus the calculated chloride of sodium from the +first heated residue.</p> + +<p>In practice, it is seldom necessary to proceed with the determination of +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda, except with stirred and +cocoa-nut oil soaps; certainly less of the truth is seen if, after the +above determination of the fatty acids and the effective alkali, the +absent per centage of water is introduced in the calculation, than if +the water is reckoned, which is never completely evolved from soap, even +technically prepared at 302° Fahr., and another determination made of +the fatty acids or alkali <i>en bloc</i> the fatty acids, or even the +alkaline contents.</p> + +<p>The method here given partakes of the usual imperfections, that the +fatty acids as well as the unsaponified soap are equally estimated, and +the mixed hydrate or carbonate of the alkali as well as the combined +alkali. The presence of the carbonate can be easily recognized by the +foaming of the soap solution, upon the addition of the sulphuric acid. +These imperfections, however, are of little importance.</p> + +<p>It must be granted that the minutely correct determination of the +constitution of soap must be always yielded up to those who are +technically conversant with this department of chemistry, the estimation +of free alkali and unchanged fat excluded in, at least, by certain ages +of the soap. Further, a considerable excess of one or another ingredient +soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the +characteristic properties of a good product, and a small excess can be +judged sufficiently exact from the proportion of the alkali, which, +supposing soda present, should not amount to more than 13 per cent. with +a pure cocoa-nut oil soap, not less than 11.5 per cent. with a tallow +soap; but with palm oil and mixed soaps the one or the other limit +approximates.—<i>Journal für Praktische Chemie.</i></p><p><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ON_THE_NATURAL_FATS" id="ON_THE_NATURAL_FATS"></a>ON THE NATURAL FATS.</h3> + +<h4>BY DR. CHARLES LÖWIG.</h4> + + +<p>The fats which exist in nature can be divided into the general and the +special; the former exist in almost all plants and parts of plants; the +latter includes only some vegetable substances, as <i>laurostearine</i>, +<i>myristicine</i>, and <i>palmatine</i>. The consistence of fats of the general +kind depend upon the proportions of margarine, stearine, and oleine +contained in them. The former preponderate in the solid fats (butter, +lard, and tallow); and the latter in the fluid ones or oils. According +as an oil contains oleic acid or olinic acid, it is termed a fatty or +drying oil. To the class of fatty oils belong olive, almond, hazel-nut, +beech, rape oils, &c.; to that of drying oils, linseed, nut, hemp, +poppy, grape-seed, oils, &c.; which are used for varnishes.</p> + +<p>In the vegetable kingdom the fats are chiefly in the seeds and in their +coverings, seldom in the perispemium (poppy), and in the fleshy +substance surrounding the seed (olive). The fat in the seed is mostly +enclosed in cells with a proteine compound. In the animal kingdom +certain parts of the body are quite filled with fat-cells, particularly +under the skin (<i>Paniculus adiposus</i>), in the cavities of the abdomen, +in the so-called <i>omentum</i>, in the kidneys and the tubulated canals of +the bones. Fat is also enclosed in cells (fatty globules) in milk.</p> + +<p>It is established, without a doubt, that a greater portion of the fat +which exists in the animal kingdom originates from the vegetable +kingdom, for it is introduced into the body cotemporaneously with the +proteine compounds of that kingdom. A portion of the fat as well as wax +is formed in <a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a>the animal organismus, as shown by a number of +observations, and in most cases it is unquestionable that the +non-nitrogenous nutriments, as starch, serve for the formation of fat by +a process of deoxidation; nevertheless, the formation of fat in the +animal body appears only to take place when the substances containing +starch enter the body simultaneously with fat.</p> + +<p>If the fat existing in the animal body is contained in cellular tissue, +its separation may be simply effected by placing the incised tissue in +hot water. The cells burst and the fat collects itself on the surface of +the water. If vegetable substances contain fat in large quantity, as, +for example, seeds, it may be obtained by expression. The dried seeds +are bruised and expressed between either cold or hot metallic plates. +Olives are laid in heaps before expression; when they begin to ferment, +they can be completely expressed. If animal and vegetable substances +contain only a little fat, it must be extracted by ether.</p> + +<p>In the pure condition the fats are mostly odorless and tasteless; when +they possess an odor, it arises mostly from the presence of small +quantities of volatile fatty acids, as butyric acid, capric acid, &c.; +which becomes free through the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl +combinations. This ensues by the presence of water and air through a +kind of fermentation, and as it appears, by the presence of a +nitrogenous substance. The fats are insoluble in water, and, with the +exception of castor oil, are taken up by cold alcohol in very small +quantities, however, more in proportion as they contain oleine. In +boiling alcohol they are dissolved, but are, for the most part, again +separated on cooling, particularly those rich in stearine. All fats are +taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest +quantity.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a>Their specific gravities fluctuate between .91 and .93. When heated, +fats assume a dark color, and boil between 482° and 572° Fahr., but the +boiling-point continuously rises, while an uninterrupted decomposition +proceeds. From oxide of glycyl ensues acroline; oleic acid affords a +fatty acid, and among the decomposition products of fats containing +stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid, and, at the same +time, some hydro-carbons are formed. When exposed quickly to a high +temperature, fats are completely decomposed. (Oil gas.) In closed +vessels the pure fats undergo no change, but, placed in thin layers in +the air, the fats containing oleine and oline rapidly absorb oxygen +under the strong evolution of heat, which will inflame porous bodies, as +cotton wool. The purer the fats are the more quickly their oxidation +results. When the fats contain slimy materials, these latter can be +destroyed with a little oxide of lead and water. (Preparation for the +application of varnishes.) The action of nitric acid, nitrous acid, +chlorine, sulphuric acid, &c., on fats is the same as that of these +bodies on the fatty acids. The fatty oils dissolve sulphur in the heat +which is again partly precipitated on cooling. When sulphur is heated +with fatty oils, namely, with linseed oil, it dissolves by degrees, and +a thick dark mass is formed, the so-called balsam of sulphur. By raising +the heat, a violent reaction ensues under the evolution of sulphuretted +hydrogen, and, at the same time, an oil resembling oil of garlic +volatilizes. This oil begins to boil at 160° Fahr., but its +boiling-point rises continually.</p><p><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="PERFUMES_AS_PREVENTIVES" id="PERFUMES_AS_PREVENTIVES"></a>PERFUMES AS PREVENTIVES OF MOULDINESS.</h3> + + +<p>An interesting paper on this subject has been published by Dr. +Macculloch. We presume our readers are aware that mouldiness is +occasioned by the growth of minute vegetables. Ink, paste, leather, and +seeds, are the substances that most frequently suffer from it. The +effect of cloves in preserving ink is well known; any of the essential +oils answer equally well. Leather may be kept free from mould by the +same substances. Thus Russian leather, which is perfumed with the tar of +birch, never becomes mouldy; indeed it prevents it from occurring in +other bodies. A few drops of any essential oil are sufficient also to +keep books entirely free from it. For harness, oil of turpentine is +recommended. Bookbinders, in general, employ alum for preserving their +paste; but mould frequently forms on it. Shoemakers' resin is sometimes +also used for the same purpose; but it is less effectual than oil of +turpentine. The best preventives, however, are the essential oils, even +in small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise, or cassia, by which +paste may be kept almost any length of time; indeed, it has, in this +way, been preserved for years. The paste recommended by Dr. Macculloch +is made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little +corrosive sublimate; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the +sublimate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by +insects. After it is made, a few drops of any of the essential oils are +added. Paste made in this way dries when exposed to the air, and may be +used merely by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, +it ought to be put into covered pots. Seeds may also be <a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a>preserved by +the essential oils; and this is of great consequence, when they are to +be sent to a distance. Of course moisture must be excluded as much as +possible, as the oils or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="FUSEL_OIL" id="FUSEL_OIL"></a>FUSEL OIL.</h3> + +<h4>BY W. BASTICK.</h4> + + +<p>This organic compound was first discovered by Scheele, as one of the +distillation products of the wort obtained from the fermentation of +potatoes. It has been subsequently examined by Pelletier, Dumas, +Cahours, and others. It is generally now termed the hydrate of the oxide +of amyl, from amyl being supposed to be its base or radical, as cyanogen +is regarded to be the radical of another series of compounds.</p> + +<p>It passes over towards the termination of the distillation process in a +white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery and alcoholic solution of +the fusel oil. The crude oil, consisting of about one-half of its weight +of alcohol and water, may be purified, being shaken with water and +redistilled, with the previous addition of chloride of calcium. When the +temperature of the contents of retort reaches 296° Fahr., pure fusel oil +distils over.</p> + +<p>Fusel oil is a colorless oily fluid, which possesses at first not an +unagreeable odor, but at last is very disgusting, producing oppression +at the chest and exciting cough. It has a sharp hot taste, and burns +with a white blue flame. It boils at 296° Fahr., and at temperature of +-4° Fahr. it becomes solid, and forms crystals. Its specific gravity at<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a> +59° Fahr. is 0.8124, and its formula C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>12</sub>O<sub>2</sub>. On paper it +produces a greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and when exposed to +the action of the air it acquires an acid reaction. Fusel oil is +slightly soluble in water, to which it imparts its odor; and soluble in +all proportions in alcohol, ether, volatile and fixed oils, and acetic +acid. It dissolves phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine without any +noticeable change, and also mixes with caustic soda and potash. It +rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid, with the disengagement of heat. When +mixed with concentrated sulphuric acid, the mixture becomes of a +violet-red color, and bisulphate of amyloxide is formed. Nitric acid and +chlorine decompose it. By its distillation with anhydrous phosphoric +acid, a fluid, oily combination of hydrogen and carbon results. By +oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, fusel oil yields +valerianic acid, which is used in medicine, and apple-oil, employed as a +flavoring ingredient in confectionery.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ESSENCE_OF_PINE-APPLE" id="ESSENCE_OF_PINE-APPLE"></a>ESSENCE OF PINE-APPLE.</h3> + +<h4>BY W. BASTICK.</h4> + + +<p>The above essence is, as already known, butyric ether more or less +diluted with alcohol; to obtain which pure, on the large scale and +economically, the following process is recommended:—</p> + +<p>Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid, in 26 lbs. +of boiling water. Let the solution stand for several days; then add 8 +ounces of putrid cheese broken up with 3 lbs. of skimmed and curdled +sour milk and 3 lbs. of levigated chalk. The mixture should be kept and +stirred <a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>daily in a warm place, at the temperature of about 92° Fahr., +as long as gas is evolved, which is generally the case for five or six +weeks.</p> + +<p>The liquid thus obtained, is mixed with an equal volume of cold water, +and 8 lbs. of crystallized carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in +water, added. It is then filtered from the precipitated carbonate of +lime; the filtrate is to be evaporated down to 10 lbs., when 5-1/2 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are +to be carefully added. The butyric acid, which separates on the surface +of the liquid as a dark-colored oil, is to be removed, and the rest of +the liquid distilled; the distillate is now neutralized with carbonate +of soda, and the butyric acid separated as before, with sulphuric acid.</p> + +<p>The whole of the crude acid is to be rectified with the addition of an +ounce of sulphuric acid to every pound. The distillate is then saturated +with fused chloride of calcium, and redistilled. The product will be +about 28 ounces of pure butyric acid. To prepare the butyric acid or +essence of pine-apple, from this acid proceed as follows:—Mix, by +weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol, and two +parts of sulphuric acid in a retort, and submit the whole, with a +sufficient heat, to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes +over ceases to emit a fruity odor. By treating the distillate with +chloride of calcium, and by its redistillation, the pure ether may be +obtained.</p> + +<p>The boiling-point of butyric ether is 238° Fahr. Its specific gravity, +0.904, and its formula,</p> + +<p> +C<sub>12</sub>H<sub>12</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, or C<sub>4</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O + C<sub>8</sub>H<sub>7</sub>O<sub>3</sub>.<br /> +</p> + +<p>Bensch's process, above described, for the production of butyric acid, +affords a remarkable exemplification of the extraordinary +transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or +by catalytic action. When cane <a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a>sugar is treated with tartaric acid, +especially under the influence of heat, it is converted into grape +sugar. This grape sugar, in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous +substances, such as cheese, is transformed in the first instance into +lactic acid, which combines with the lime of the chalk. The acid of the +lactate of lime, thus produced, is by the further influence of the +ferment changed into butyric acid. Hence, butyrate of lime is the final +result of the catalytic action in the process we have here recommended.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="PREPARATION_OF_CRUDE_PELARGONATE" id="PREPARATION_OF_CRUDE_PELARGONATE"></a>PREPARATION OF CRUDE PELARGONATE OF ETHYL-OXIDE (ESSENCE OF QUINCE.)</h3> + +<h4>BY DR. R. WAGNER.</h4> + + +<p>It has been believed, until the most recent period, that the peel of +quinces contains œnanthylate of ethyl-oxide. New researches, however, +have led to the supposition that the odorous principle of quinces is +derived from the ether of pelargonic acid. In my last research on the +action of nitric acid on oil of rue, I found that besides the fatty +acids, which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic acid is formed. +This process may be advantageously employed for the preparation of crude +pelargonate of ethyl-oxide, which, on account of its extremely agreeable +odor, may be applied as a fruit essence equally with those prepared by +Dobereiner, Hofmann, and Fehling. For the preparation of the liquid, +which can be named the essence of quince, oil of rue is treated with +double its quantity of very diluted nitric acid, and the mixture heated +until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to be observed +in the liquid: the upper <a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a>one is brownish, and the lower one consists of +the products of the oxidation of oil of rue and the excess of nitric +acid. The lower layer is freed from the greater part of its nitric acid +by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath. The white flocks frequently +found in the acid liquid, which are probably fatty acids, are separated +by filtration. The filtrate is mixed with spirit, and long digested in a +gentle heat, by which a fluid is formed, which has the agreeable odor of +quince in the highest degree, and may be purified by distillation. The +spirituous solution of pelargonic ether may also be profitably prepared +from oleic acid, according to Gottlieb's method.—<i>Journal für +Praktische Chemie.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="PREPARATION_OF_RUM-ETHER" id="PREPARATION_OF_RUM-ETHER"></a>PREPARATION OF RUM-ETHER.</h3> + + +<p>Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric acid, each twelve pounds; +of alcohol, twenty-six pounds; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds. Mix, +and distil twelve pints. The ether, as above prepared, is an article of +commerce in Austria, being the body to which rum owes its peculiar +flavor.—<i>Austrian Journal of Pharmacy.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ARTIFICIAL_FRUIT_ESSENCES" id="ARTIFICIAL_FRUIT_ESSENCES"></a>ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES.</h3> + +<h4>BY FEHLING.</h4> + + +<p><i>Pine-apple Oil</i> is a solution of one part of butyric ether, in eight or +ten parts of alcohol. For the preparation of this ether, pure butyric +acid must be first obtained by the fermentation of sugar, according to +the method of Bensch.<a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a> One pound of this acid is dissolved in one pound +of strong alcohol, and mixed with from a quarter to half an ounce of +sulphuric acid; the mixture is heated for some minutes, whereby the +butyric ether separates as a light stratum. The whole is mixed with half +its volume of water, and the upper stratum then removed; the heavy fluid +is distilled, by which more butyric ether is obtained. The distillate +and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water, the lighter +portion of the liquid removed, which at last, by being shaken with water +and a little soda, is freed from adhering acid.</p> + +<p>For the preparation of the essence of pine-apple, one pound of this +ether is dissolved in 8 or 10 pounds of alcohol. 20 or 25 drops of this +solution is sufficient to give to one pound of sugar a strong taste of +pine-apple, if a little citric or tartaric acid has been added.</p> + +<p><i>Pear-oil.</i>—This is an alcoholic solution of acetate of amyloxide, and +acetate of ethyloxide. For its preparation, one pound of glacial acetic +acid is added to an equal weight of fusel-oil (which has been prepared +by being washed with soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature +between 254° and 284° Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of sulphuric +acid. The mixture is digested for some hours at a temperature of 254°, +by which means acetate of amyloxide separates, particularly on the +addition of some water. The crude acetate of amyloxide obtained by +separation, and by the distillation of the liquid to which the water has +been added, is finally purified by being washed with soda and water. +Fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of +acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of alcohol; this is the essence of +pear, which, when employed to flavor sugar or syrup, to which a little +citric or tartaric acid has been added, affords the flavor of bergamot +pears, and a fruity, refreshing taste.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a><i>Apple-oil</i> is an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyloxide. It is +obtained impure, as a by product, when for the preparation of valerianic +acid, fusel-oil is distilled with bichromate of potash and sulphuric +acid. It is better prepared in the following manner:—For the +preparation of valerianic acid, 1 part of fusel-oil is mixed gradually +with 3 parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 parts of water added. A solution +of 2-1/4 parts of bichromate of potash, with 4-1/2 parts of water, is +heated in a tubulated retort, and into this fluid the former mixture is +gradually poured, so that the ebullition is not too rapid. The +distillate is saturated with carbonate of soda, and warmed, when a +solution of 3 parts of crystallized carbonate of soda, 2 parts of strong +sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal quantity of water, are added. The +valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum.</p> + +<p>One part, by weight, of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal +weight of sulphuric acid. The cold solution is added to 1-1/4 parts of +the above valerianic acid; the mixture is warmed for some minutes (not +too long or too much) in a water-bath, and then mixed with a little +water, by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates, +which is washed with water and carbonate of soda. For use as an essence +of apples, one part of this valerianate of amyloxide is dissolved in 6 +or 8 parts of alcohol.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="VOLATILE_OIL_OF_GAULTHERIA" id="VOLATILE_OIL_OF_GAULTHERIA"></a>VOLATILE OIL OF GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS.</h3> + +<h4>BY W. BASTICK.</h4> + + +<p>The chemical history of this oil is one of great importance and +interest, affording, as it does, one of the examples <a name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></a>where the progress +of modern chemistry has succeeded in producing artificially a complex +organic body, previously only known as the result of vital force.</p> + +<p>This volatile oil is obtained from the winter-green, an American shrub +of the heath family, by distillation. When this plant is distilled, at +first an oil passes over which consists of C<sub>10</sub>H<sub>8</sub>, but when the +temperature reaches 464° Fahr., a pure oil distils into the receiver. +Therefore the essential oil of this plant, like many others, consists of +two portions—one a hydro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated compound; +this latter is the chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so +much chemical interest, from the fact that it has been artificially +prepared.</p> + +<p>It is termed, when thus prepared, the spiroylate of the oxide of methyl, +and is obtained when two parts of wood spirit, one and a half parts of +spiroylic acid, and one part of sulphuric acid are distilled together. +It is a colorless liquid, of an agreeable aromatic odor and taste; it +dissolves slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether and +alcohol; it boils between 411° and 435° Fahr., and has a specific +gravity of 1.173. This compound expels carbonic acid from its +combinations, and forms a series of salts, which contain one atom of +base and one atom of spiroylate of the oxide of methyl. It behaves +therefore as a conjugate acid. Its formula is C<sub>14</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O<sub>5</sub> + +C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>3</sub>O.</p> + +<p>The spiroylic acid may be separated from the natural oil by treating it +with a concentrated solution of caustic potash at a temperature of 113° +Fahr., when wood spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution +contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with +sulphuric acid, the spiroylic acid separates and subsides in the fluid.</p> + +<p>Spiroylic acid is also formed by the oxidation of spiroyligenic acid, +and when saligenin, salicin, courmacin, or indigo, is heated with +caustic potash.</p><p><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="ON_THE_APPLICATION_OF_ORGANIC" id="ON_THE_APPLICATION_OF_ORGANIC"></a>ON THE APPLICATION OF ORGANIC CHEMISTRY TO PERFUMERY.</h3> + +<h4>BY DR. A.W. HOFMANN,</h4> + +<p><i>Professor to the Royal College of Chemistry, London</i>.</p> + + +<p>Cahours' excellent researches concerning the essential oil of +<i>Gaultheria procumbens</i> (a North American plant of the natural order of +the Ericinæ of Jussieu), which admits of so many applications in +perfumery,<a name="FNanchor_I_9" id="FNanchor_I_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_I_9" class="fnanchor">[I]</a> have opened a new field in this branch of industry. The +introduction of this oil among compound ethers must necessarily direct +the attention of perfumers<a name="FNanchor_J_10" id="FNanchor_J_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_J_10" class="fnanchor">[J]</a> towards this important branch of +compounds, the number of which is daily increasing by the labors of +those who apply themselves to organic chemistry. The striking similarity +of the smell of these ethers to that of fruit had not escaped the +observation of chemistry; however, it was reserved to practical men to +discover by which choice and combinations it might be possible to +imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety, that makes it +probable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural combination +identical to that produced by art; so much so, as to enable the chemist +to produce from fruits the said combinations, provided he could have at +his disposal a sufficient quantity to operate upon. The manufacture of +artificial aromatic oils for the purpose of perfumery<a name="FNanchor_K_11" id="FNanchor_K_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_K_11" class="fnanchor">[K]</a> is, of course, +a recent branch of industry; nevertheless, it has already fallen into +the hands of several distillers, who produce sufficient quantity to +supply the trade; a fact, which has <a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a>not escaped the observation of the +Jury at the London Exhibition. In visiting the stalls of English and +French perfumers at the Crystal Palace, we found a great variety of +these chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at the same time +practically illustrated by confectionery flavored by them. However, as +most of the samples of the oils sent to the Exhibition were but small, I +was prevented, in many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. +The largest samples were those of a compound labelled "pear-oil," which, +by analysis, I discovered to be an alcoholic solution of pure acetate of +amyloxide. Not having sufficient quantity to purify it for combustion, I +dissolved it with potash, by which free fusel-oil was separated, and +determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver salt.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">0.3080 gram. of silver salt = 0.1997 gram. of silver.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The per centage of silver in acetate of silver is, according to</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Theory, 64.68</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Experiment, 64.55</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of preparing +it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part fusel-oil, and two +parts of acetate of potash, had a striking smell of fruit, but it +acquired the pleasant flavor of the jargonelle pear only after having +been diluted with six times its volume of spirit of wine.</p> + +<p>Upon further inquiry I learned that considerable quantities of this oil +are manufactured by some distillers,—from fifteen to twenty pounds +weekly,—and sold to confectioners, who employ it chiefly in flavoring +pear-drops, which are nothing else but barley-sugar, flavored with this +oil.</p> + +<p>I found, besides the pear-oil, also an <i>apple-oil</i>, which, according to +my analysis, is nothing but valerianate of amyloxide. Every one must +recollect the insupportable smell <a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a>of rotten apples which fills the +laboratory whilst making valerianic acid. By operating upon this raw +distillate produced with diluted potash, valerianic acid is removed, and +an ether remains behind, which, diluted in five or six times its volume +of spirits of wine, is possessed of the most pleasant flavor of apples.</p> + +<p>The essential oil<a name="FNanchor_L_12" id="FNanchor_L_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_L_12" class="fnanchor">[L]</a> most abundant in the Exhibition was the pine-apple +oil, which, as you well know, is nothing else but the butyrate of +ethyloxide. Even in this combination, like in the former, the pleasant +flavor or scent is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol. The +butyric ether which is employed in Germany to flavor bad rum, is +employed in England to flavor an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale. +For this purpose they generally do not employ pure butyric acid, but a +product obtained by saponification of butter, and subsequent +distillation of the soap with concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol; +which product contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but +nevertheless can be used for flavoring spirits. The sample I analyzed +was purer, and appeared to have been made with pure butyric ether.</p> + +<p>Decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt, it gave</p> + +<p> +0.4404 gram. of silver salt = 0.2437 gram. of silver.<br /> +</p> + +<p>The per centage of silver in the butyrate of silver is according to</p> + +<p> +Theory, 55.38<br /> +Experiment, 55.33<br /> +</p> + +<p>Both English and French exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac-oil +and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the common sorts of brandy. +As these samples were <a name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></a>very small, I was prevented from making an +accurate analysis. However, I am certain that the grape-oil is a +combination of amyl, diluted with much alcohol; since, when acted upon +with concentrated sulphuric acid, and the oil freed from alcohol by +washing it with water, it gave amylsulphuric acid, which was identified +by the analysis of the salt of barytes.</p> + +<p>1.2690 gram. of amylsulphate of barytes gave 0.5825 gram. of sulphate of +barytes. This corresponds to 45.82 per cent. of sulphate of barytes.</p> + +<p>Amylsulphate of barytes, crystallized with two equivalents of water, +contains, according to the analysis of Cahours and Kekule, 45.95 per +cent. of sulphate of barytes. It is curious to find here a body, which, +on account of its noxious smell, is removed with great care from +spirituous liquors, to be applied under a different form for the purpose +of imparting to them a pleasant flavor.</p> + +<p>I must needs here also mention the artificial oil of bitter almonds. +When Mitscherlich, in the year 1834, discovered the nitrobenzol, he +would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the +purpose of perfumery, and, after twenty years, appear in fine labelled +samples at the London Exhibition. It is true that, even at the time of +the discovery of nitrobenzol, he pointed out the striking similarity of +its smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds. However, at that time, +the only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases +and the distillation of benzoic acid, consequently the enormity of its +price banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of +bitter almonds. However, in the year 1845, I succeeded by means of the +anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common +coal-tar oil; and, in the year 1849, C.B. Mansfield proved, by careful +experiments, that <a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>benzol can be won without difficulty in great +quantity from coal-tar oil. In his essay, which contains many +interesting details about the practical use of benzol, he speaks +likewise of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented +nitrobenzol in great quantity. The Exhibition has proved that his +observation has not been left unnoticed by the perfumers. Among French +perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter +almonds, and under the still more poetical name of "essence de mirbane," +several samples of essential oils, which are no more nor less than +nitrobenzol. I was not able to obtain accurate details about the extent +of this branch of manufacture, which seems to be of some importance. In +London, this article is manufactured with success. The apparatus +employed is that of Mansfield, which is very simple. It consists of a +large glass worm, the upper extremity of which divides in two branches +or tubes, which are provided with funnels. Through one of these funnels +passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid; the other is destined as a +receiver of benzol, which, for this purpose, requires not to be quite +pure; at the angle from where the two tubes branch out, the two bodies +meet together, and instantly the chemical combination takes place, which +cools sufficiently by passing through the glass worm. The product is +afterwards washed with water, and some diluted solution of carbonate of +soda; it is then ready for use. Notwithstanding the great physical +similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of bitter almonds, there is yet a +slight <i>difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced +nose</i>.<a name="FNanchor_M_13" id="FNanchor_M_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_M_13" class="fnanchor">[M]</a> However, nitrobenzol is very useful in scenting soap, and +might be employed with great advantage by confectioners and cooks, +particularly on account of its safety, being entirely free from prussic +acid.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>There were, besides the above, several other artificial oils; they all, +however, were more or less complicated, and in so small quantities, that +it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature, and it was doubtful +whether they had the same origin as the former.</p> + +<p>The application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new; it is +probable that the study of all the ethers or ethereal combinations +already known, and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily +discovering, will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications. +The capryl-ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their +aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide is possessed of the most +intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the +manufacturers of perfumes.—<i>Annalen der Chemie.</i></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="CORRESPONDENCE_FROM_THE" id="CORRESPONDENCE_FROM_THE"></a>CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE "JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS."<a name="FNanchor_N_14" id="FNanchor_N_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_N_14" class="fnanchor">[N]</a></h3> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Chemistry and Perfumery</span>.</h4> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir,</span></p> + +<p>When such periodicals as "Household Words" and the "Family Herald" +contain scientific matters, treated in a manner to popularize science, +all real lovers of philosophy must feel gratified; a little fiction, a +little metaphor, is expected, and is accepted with the good intention +with which it is given, in such popular prints; but when the "Journal of +the Society of Arts" reprints quotations from such sources, without +modifying or correcting their expressions, it conveys <a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a>to its readers a +tissue of fiction rather too flimsy to bear a truthful analysis.<a name="FNanchor_O_15" id="FNanchor_O_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_O_15" class="fnanchor">[O]</a></p> + +<p>In the article on Chemistry and Perfumery, in No. 47, you quote that +"some of the most delicate perfumes are now made by chemical artifice, +and not, as of old, by distilling them from flowers." Now, sir, this +statement conveys to the public a very erroneous idea; because the +substances afterwards spoken of are named essences of fruit, and not +essences of flowers, and the essences of fruits named in your article +never are, and never can be, used in perfumery. This assertion is based +on practical experience. The artificial essences of fruits are ethers: +when poured upon a handkerchief, and held up to the nose, they act, as +is well known, like chloroform. Dare a perfumer sell a bottle of such a +preparation to an "unprotected female?"</p> + +<p>Again, you quote that "the drainings of cow-houses are the main source +to which the manufacturer applies for the production of his most +delicate and admired perfumes."</p> + +<p>Shade of Munchausen! must I refute this by calling your attention to the +fact that in the south of France more than 80,000 persons are employed, +directly and indirectly, in the cultivation of flowers, and in the +extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers? that Italy +cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as +extensive as the whole of some English counties? that tracts of +flower-farms exist in the Balkan, in Turkey, more extensive than the +whole of Yorkshire? Our own flower-farms at Mitcham, in Surrey, need not +be mentioned in comparison, although important. These, sir, are the main +sources of <a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a>perfumes. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and in +the West Indies; but enough has been said, I hope, to refute the +cow-house story. This story is founded on the fact that Benzoic acid +<i>can be</i> obtained from the draining of stables, and that Benzoic acid +has rather a pleasant odor. Some of the largest wholesale perfumers use +five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic +acid. The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared +for commercial purposes; as also the fruit essences. Those of your +readers interested in what <i>really is used</i> in perfumery, are referred +to the last six numbers of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Practical +Chemistry," article "Perfumery."</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Your obedient servant,<br /></span> +<span class="i4"><span class="smcap">Septimus Piesse.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Chemistry and Perfumery.</span><a name="FNanchor_P_16" id="FNanchor_P_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_P_16" class="fnanchor">[P]</a></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir,</span></p> + +<p>The discussion about chemistry and perfumery, in reality amounts to +this: Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the term "perfumery" to such things +as Eau de Cologne, &c.; perfumed soaps, groceries, &c., he does not +appear to class as "perfumery." Now the artificial scents are as yet +chiefly used for the latter substances, which in common language, and, I +should say, in a perfumer's nomenclature also, would be included in +perfumery. The authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to +be found in a little French work called, I believe, "La Chimie de +l'Odorat" in which a full description is given of the collection of +fresh urine and its application to this purpose. I need scarcely say, +<a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a>that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous +principle.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Your obedient servant,<br /></span> +<span class="i4"><span class="smcap">A Perfumer.</span><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>[When benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes, it is <i>free +from the fragrant volatile oil</i> which accompanies it when prepared by +sublimation from the resin, and to which oil the acid of commerce owes +its peculiar odor. This fact completely nullifies the above +assertion.—<span class="smcap">Septimus Piesse.</span>]</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Chemistry and Perfumery.</span><a name="FNanchor_Q_17" id="FNanchor_Q_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_Q_17" class="fnanchor">[Q]</a></p> + + +<p>Sir,</p> + +<p>If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery, published in No. +50 of your Journal, and intended as a reply to mine—though none was +needed—which appeared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature +implies, he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, +"confine the term perfumery" to various odoriferous substances, and +exclude scented soaps; because he would be aware that one-third of the +returns of every manufacturing perfumer is derived from perfumed soap. I +do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, "groceries, +&c.," the <i>et cætera</i> meaning, I presume, "confectionery," because +perfumery has to do with one of the senses, <span class="smcap">smelling</span>, while +groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another, <span class="smcap">taste</span>; and had +not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and +manufactures would have defined them: I therefore repeat, that the +artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery, as stated in +No. 47, from the quoted authorities. If any man can deny this assertion, +let him now do so, "or forever after hold his peace," at <a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a>least upon +this subject. The "Journal of the Society of Arts" is not a medium of +mere controversy. If a statement be made in error, let truth correct it, +which, if gain-sayed, it should be done, not under the veil of an +anonymous correspondent, but with a name to support the assertion. +Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the political +alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">I am, sir, yours faithfully,<br /></span> +<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Septimus Piesse</span>.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>[If the word <i>flavor</i> had been used by the various authors who have +written upon this subject, in place of the word <i>perfume</i>, the +dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented: the word +perfume, applied to pear-oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the +general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer, +that these substances are used by perfumers, who not only do not, but +cannot use them in their trade.</p> + +<p>But for <i>flavoring</i> nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or +oils as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in +accordance with assertions of Hoffman, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. +However, the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost +anything by this misapplication of a trade term.—<span class="smcap">Septimus +Piesse.</span>]</p><p><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a></p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="OTTOS_FROM_PLANTS" id="OTTOS_FROM_PLANTS"></a>OTTOS FROM PLANTS.</h3> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Quantities of Ottos, otherwise Essential oils, yielded by various +Plants.</span></h4> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Pounds</td><td align='left'>Of otto.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Orange-peel,</td><td align='left'>10 yield about</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dry marjoram herb,</td><td align='left'>20 "</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fresh " "</td><td align='left'>100 "</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>" Peppermint,</td><td align='left'>100 "</td><td align='left'>3 to 4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dry "</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>3 to 4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>" Origanum,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>2 to 3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>" Thyme,</td><td align='left'>20 "</td><td align='left'>1 to 1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>" Calamus,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>3 to 4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Anise-seed,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>9 to 12 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Caraway,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>16 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cloves,</td><td align='left'>1 "</td><td align='left'>2-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cinnamon,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cassia,</td><td align='left'>25 "</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cedar-wood,</td><td align='left'>28 "</td><td align='left'>4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Mace,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nutmegs,</td><td align='left'>2 "</td><td align='left'>3 to 4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fresh balm herb,</td><td align='left'>60 "</td><td align='left'>1 to 1-1/2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cake of bitter almond,</td><td align='left'>14 "</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sweet flag root,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>16 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Geranium leaves,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lavender flowers,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>30 to 32 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Myrtle leaves,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>5 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Patchouly herb,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>28 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Province rose blossom,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>1-1/2 to 2 drachms.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Rhodium-wood,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>3 to 4 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Santal-wood,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>30 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vitivert or kus-kus-root,</td><td align='left'>112 "</td><td align='left'>15 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h3><a name="WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES" id="WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES"></a>WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.</h3> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">French Weights and Measures compared with English</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Imperial</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Troy</td><td align='left'>Kilo-</td><td align='left'>Lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Litres.</td><td align='left'>Gallons.</td><td align='left'>Grammes.</td><td align='left'>Grains.</td><td align='left'>grammes.</td><td align='left'>Avoird.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>0.22010</td><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>15.434</td><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>2.20486</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>0.44019</td><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>30.868</td><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>4.40971</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>0.66029</td><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>46.302</td><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>6.61457</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>0.88039</td><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>61.736</td><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>8.81943</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>1.10048</td><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>77.170</td><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>11.02429</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>1.32058</td><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>92.604</td><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>13.22914</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>1.54068</td><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>108.038</td><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>15.43400</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>1.76077</td><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>123.472</td><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>17.63886</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>1.98087</td><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>138.906</td><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>19.84371</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">English Weights and Measures compared with French</span>.</h4> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Imp.</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Troy</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>Lbs.</td><td align='left'>Kilo-</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Gallons.</td><td align='left'>Litres.</td><td align='left'>Grains.</td><td align='left'>Grammes.</td><td align='left'>Avoird.</td><td align='left'>grammes.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>4.54346</td><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>0.06479</td><td align='center'>1,</td><td align='center'>0.45354</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>9.08692</td><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>0.12958</td><td align='center'>2,</td><td align='center'>0.90709</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>13.63038</td><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>0.19438</td><td align='center'>3,</td><td align='center'>1.36063</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>18.17384</td><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>0.25917</td><td align='center'>4,</td><td align='center'>1.81418</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>22.71730</td><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>0.32396</td><td align='center'>5,</td><td align='center'>2.26772</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>27.26076</td><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>0.38875</td><td align='center'>6,</td><td align='center'>2.72126</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>31.80422</td><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>0.45354</td><td align='center'>7,</td><td align='center'>3.17481</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>36.34768</td><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>0.51834</td><td align='center'>8,</td><td align='center'>3.62835</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>40.89114</td><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>0.58313</td><td align='center'>9,</td><td align='center'>4.08190</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Brother of the Author.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> See Appendix, "Benzoic Acid."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> See "Incense."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last +tariff, 8<i>d.</i> per flacon of 4 oz., or 20<i>s.</i> per gallon.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E_5"><span class="label">[E]</span></a> Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a +minute in one pint, imperial, of distilled water.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_F_6"><span class="label">[F]</span></a> The imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_G_7"><span class="label">[G]</span></a> Annals of Pharmacy, vol. ii, pp. 168, 169.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_H_8" id="Footnote_H_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_H_8"><span class="label">[H]</span></a> The deposit is nearly insoluble in water, is acid and +astringent to the taste, gives an acid reaction with litmus. Spirit of +wine dissolves out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a +thick oleo-resinous substance, having a rancid smell. Ether leaves a +pleasant-smelling resin, somewhat resembling camphor. The remainder is +nearly insoluble in liq. ammoniæ, liq. potassæ, more soluble in nitric +acid, and well deserves to be further examined.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_I_9" id="Footnote_I_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_I_9"><span class="label">[I]</span></a> Qy. Confectionery?</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_J_10" id="Footnote_J_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_J_10"><span class="label">[J]</span></a> Qy. Confectioners?</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_K_11" id="Footnote_K_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_K_11"><span class="label">[K]</span></a> Confectionery.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_L_12" id="Footnote_L_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_L_12"><span class="label">[L]</span></a> The writer means ether!</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_M_13" id="Footnote_M_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_M_13"><span class="label">[M]</span></a> See "Almond."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_N_14" id="Footnote_N_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_N_14"><span class="label">[N]</span></a> No. 49.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_O_15" id="Footnote_O_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_O_15"><span class="label">[O]</span></a> If our Correspondent had carefully read the article he so +fiercely attacks, he would have seen that the authorities were Dr. Lyon +Playfair's Lecture, and Professsor Fehling, in the "Wurtemberg Journal +of Industry."—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_P_16" id="Footnote_P_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_P_16"><span class="label">[P]</span></a> No. 50.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_Q_17" id="Footnote_Q_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_Q_17"><span class="label">[Q]</span></a> No. 52.</p></div> + +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Art of Perfumery, by G. 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-0,0 +1,9137 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Art of Perfumery, by G. W. Septimus Piesse + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Art of Perfumery + And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants + +Author: G. W. Septimus Piesse + +Release Date: July 28, 2005 [EBook #16378] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF PERFUMERY *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + +Transcriber's note: Footnotes moved to end of text + + +The Art + +OF + +PERFUMERY, + +AND METHOD OF OBTAINING + +THE ODORS OF PLANTS. + +[Illustration: DRYING HOUSE FOR HERBS.] + +From the rafters of the roof of the Drying House are suspended in +bunches all the herbs that the grower cultivates. To accelerate the +desiccation of rose leaves and other petals, the Drying House is fitted +up with large cupboards, which are slightly warmed with a convolving +flue, heated from a fire below. + +The flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas stretched upon a +frame rack, being not less than twelve feet long by four feet wide. When +charged they are placed on shelves in the warm cupboards till dry. + + + + +THE ART OF PERFUMERY, + +AND METHOD OF OBTAINING THE ODORS OF PLANTS, + +WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, +SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, COSMETIQUES, +PERFUMED SOAP, ETC. + +WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, +ETC. ETC. + +[Illustration] + +BY G.W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE, + +AUTHOR OF THE "ODORS OF FLOWERS," ETC. ETC. + + * * * * * + +PHILADELPHIA: +LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. +1857. + +PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN & SON, +19 St. James Street. + + + + +Preface. + + +By universal consent, the physical faculties of man have been divided +into five senses,--seeing, hearing, touching, tasting, and smelling. It +is of matter pertaining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly +treats. Of the five senses, that of smelling is the least valued, and, +as a consequence, is the least tutored; but we must not conclude from +this, our own act, that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare +and happiness. + +By neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve, we are constantly led to +breathe impure air, and thus poison the body by neglecting the warning +given at the gate of the lungs. Persons who use perfumes are more +sensitive to the presence of a vitiated atmosphere than those who +consider the faculty of smelling as an almost useless gift. + +In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes was in constant +practice, and it had the high sanction of Scriptural authority. + +The patrons of perfumery have always been considered the most civilized +and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing how +to enjoy the faculties which we possess, then must we learn not only how +to distinguish the harmony of color and form, in order to please the +sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear; the comfort of +appropriate fabrics to cover the body, and to please the touch, but the +smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself with the +odoriferous products of the garden and the forest. + +Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes is in the highest degree +prophylactic; the refreshing qualities of the citrine odors to an +invalid is well known. Health has often been restored when life and +death trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of +cedrat in a sick chamber. + +The commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance to the wealth +of nations. But, vast as is the consumption of perfumes by the people +under the rule of the British Empire, little has been done in England +towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw +odorous substances in demand by the manufacturing perfumers of Britain; +consequently nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries. +However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the +attention of the Society of Arts, and favorable results will doubtless +follow. Much of the waste land in England, and especially in Ireland, +could be very profitably employed if cultivated with odor-bearing +plants. + +The climate of some of the British colonies especially fits them for the +production of odors from flowers that require elevated temperature to +bring them to perfection. + +But for the lamented death of Mr. Charles Piesse,[A] Colonial Secretary +for Western Australia, I have every reason to believe that flower-farms +would have been established in that colony long ere the publication of +this work. Though thus personally frustrated in adapting a new and +useful description of labor to British enterprise, I am no less sanguine +of the final result in other hands. + +Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent to England some fine samples +of Oil of Behn. The Moringa, from which it is produced, has been +successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly +inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of +flowers by the maceration process. + +At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace, +Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to +illustrate the commercial use of flowers--eye-lectures on the methods of +obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses. The +horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the +methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate, +entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For many +ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the Cornish +miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus cast away by +ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel between the old +miners and the modern gardeners. + +Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of +Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much +matter that has already passed under their eyes. + +To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book +form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals +all that I considered might be useful to the reader. + +To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W. Bastick, I +respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely +given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice. + + + + +Contents. + + +PREFACE + + +SECTION I. + +INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. + +Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of +its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or +Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to +Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the +Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious +People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense in the Romish +Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of Perfume--Composition of the +Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St. Ephraem's Will--Fragrant +Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the +Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume Drugs--The Art of +Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's admirable Remarks on +Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance +of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of France the principal Seat of +the Art--England noted for Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one +Perfume--Odor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential +Oil or Otto + + +SECTION II. + +Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the Odors:--Expression, +Distillation, Maceration, Absorption + + +SECTION III. + +Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of +1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of +Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, +Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, +Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, +Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, +Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, +Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, +Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, +Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, +Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, +Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, +Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity imported--Statistics, +&c. + + +SECTION IV. + +ANIMAL PERFUMES. + +Ambergris--Civet--Musk + + +SECTION V. + +SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, +Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile + +ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar, +Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre a la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic +Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne + + +SECTION VI. + +BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. + +Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of +Plants + +COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus +Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val +d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Delices--The Court Nosegay--Eau de +Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de +Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt +Bouquet--Extract of Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian +Nosegay--English Jockey Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the +Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn +Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden +Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs et Lavender--Delcroix's +Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet de Montpellier--Caprice de la +Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval Nosegay--Bouquet of all +Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du Roi--Bouquet de la Reine +Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) +Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood +Violet--Windsor Castle Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay + + +SECTION VII. + +The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from the Use +of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick Castle--Sachet +Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet a la Frangipanne--Heliotrope +Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet a la +Marechale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly +Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood +Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet +Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed +Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers + +Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the +Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's +Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume +Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau a Bruler--Eau pour Bruler--Fumigating +Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters + + +SECTION VIII. + +PERFUMED SOAP. + +Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap Trade +in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary Soaps--Curd +Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow Soap--Palm +Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft Soap--The +remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented Soaps + +Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor Soap--Brown Windsor +Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps +Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue, Brown Soaps--Otto of Rose +Soap--Tonquin Musk Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood +Soap--Spermaceti Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly +Soap--Soft or Potash Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap +Powders--Rypophagon Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft +Soap--Transparent hard Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine +Soap--Sulphur Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton +Oil Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases + + +SECTION IX. + +EMULSINES. + +Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to +Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond +Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet +Emulsion + + +SECTION X. + +MILKS OR EMULSIONS. + +Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of Almonds--Milk of +Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of +Pistachio Nuts--Lait Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers + + +SECTION XI. + +COLD CREAM. + +Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation Violet +Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold Cream--Cucumber +Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond +Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip +Salve--White Lip Salve--Common Lip Salve + + +SECTION XII. + +POMADES AND OILS. + +Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless +Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie +Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade called +Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of Flowers--Crystallized +Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow +Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade Double, Millefleurs--Pomade a la +Heliotrope--Huile Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick +Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique + + +SECTION XIII. + +HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. + +Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the Smoke +of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and +Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra Dye--Litharge +Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous Dye--Brown and Black +Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory, Rusma + + +SECTION XIV. + +ABSORBENT POWDERS. + +Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for +Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of +Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink Saucers--Crepon +Rouge + + +SECTION XV. + +TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES. + +Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth Powder--Prepared +Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic Chalk--Cuttle-Fish +Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's Dentifrice--Rose Tooth +Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic +Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and Borax--Myrrh with Eau de +Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne + + +SECTION XVI. + +HAIR WASHES. + +Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair +Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous Wash--Egg +Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline + + + + +Contents of Appendix. + + +Manufacture of Glycerine + +Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils + +Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil + +Coloring matter of Volatile Oils + +Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon + +Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil + +The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce + +Concentrated Elder Water + +ARNALL on Spirits of Wine + +Purification of Spirits by Filtration + +COBB on Otto of Lemons + +BASTICK on Benzoic Acid + +On the Coloring matters of Flowers + +Bleaching Bees' Wax + +Chemical Examination of Naples Soap + +Manufacture of Soap + +How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap + +On the Natural Fats + +Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness + +BASTICK on Fusel Oil + +BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor + +WAGNER'S Essence of Quince + +Preparation of Rum-ether + +Artificial Fruit essences + +Volatile Oil of Gaultheria + +Application of Chemistry to Perfumery + +Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts + +Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants + +French and English Weights and Measures compared + + + + +Illustrations. + + +Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.) + +Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.) + +Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water + +Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil + +The Almond + +Styrax Benzoin + +Cassie Buds + +The Clove + +The Jasmine + +The Orange + +The Patchouly Plant + +Santal-Wood + +Tonquin + +Vanilla + +Vitivert + +Civet Cat + +Musk Pod + +Musk Deer + +The Censer + +Perfume Lamp + +Slab Soap Gauge + +Barring Gauge + +Squaring Gauge + +Soap Scoops + +Soap Press + +Moulds + +Soap Plane + +Oil Runner + + + + +THE ART OF PERFUMERY. + + + + +INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY. + +SECTION I. + + "By Nature's swift and secret working hand + The garden glows, and fills the liberal air + With lavish odors. + There let me draw + Ethereal soul, there drink reviving gales, + Profusely breathing from the spicy groves + And vales of fragrance."--THOMSON. + + +Among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of +flowers, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands +pre-eminent. It is proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have +been in use from the earliest periods. The origin of this, like that of +many other arts, is lost in the depth of its antiquity; though it had +its rise, no doubt, in religious observances. Among the nations of +antiquity, an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most +profound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes by +incision and dries as a gum, from _Arbor-thurifera_, was formerly burnt +in the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that were +there adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death because +they would not offer incense to idols. + + "Of the use of these luxuries by the Greeks, and afterwards by the + Romans, Pliny and Seneca gives much information respecting perfume + drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they + sold. Oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used, for even + three times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint and + scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to + the baths in costly and elegant boxes called NARTHECIA." + +In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies, and +particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and other +personages of exalted rank. + +Pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is procured, and +certain passages in his works indicate that dried flowers were used in +his time by way of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed with +spices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls _pot-pourri_, used +for scenting apartments, and generally placed in some ornamental Vase. + +It was not uncommon among the Egyptian ladies to carry about the person +a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the case to the present day +among the Chinese, and to wear beads made of scented wood. The +"bdellium" mentioned by Moses in Genesis is a perfuming gum, resembling +frankincense, if not identical with it. + +Several passages in Exodus prove the use of perfumes at a very early +period among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the Lord +said unto Moses: "1. And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon; +of Shittim wood shalt thou make it." "7. And Aaron shall burn thereon +sweet incense every morning; when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn +incense upon it." "34. Take unto thee sweet spices, stacte, and onycha, +and galbanum; these sweet spices with pure frankincense: of each shall +there be a like weight." "35. And thou shalt make it a perfume, a +confection after the art of the apothecary, tempered together pure and +holy." "36. And thou shalt beat some of it very small, and put of it +before the testimony in the tabernacle of the congregation, where I will +meet with thee; it shall be unto you most holy." "37. And as for the +perfume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according +to the composition thereof; it shall be unto thee holy for the Lord." +"38. Whosoever shall make like unto that to smell thereto, shall even be +cut off from his people." + + "It was from this religious custom, of employing incense in the + ancient temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile + of his, when he petitioned that his prayers might ascend before + the Lord like incense, Luke 1:10. It was while all the multitude + was praying without, at the hour of incense, that there appeared + to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the right side of the + altar of incense. That the nations attached a meaning not only of + personal reverence, but also of religious homage, to an offering + of incense, is demonstrable from the instance of the Magi, who, + having fallen down to adore the new-born Jesus, and recognized his + Divinity, presented Him with gold, myrrh and frankincense. The + primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted + the use of incense at the celebration of the Liturgy. St. Ephraem, + a father of the Syriac Church, directed in his will that no + aromatic perfumes should be bestowed upon him at his funeral, but + that the spices should rather be given to the sanctuary. The use + of incense in all the Oriental churches is perpetual, and almost + daily; nor do any of them ever celebrate their Liturgy without it, + unless compelled by necessity. The Coptic, as well as other + Eastern Christians, observe the same ceremonial as the Latin + Church in incensing their altar, the sacred vessels, and + ecclesiastical personages."--DR. ROCK'S _Hierurgia_. + +Perfumes were used in the Church service, not only under the form of +incense, but also mixed in the oil and wax for the lamps and lights +commanded to be burned in the house of the Lord. The brilliancy and +fragrance which were often shed around a martyr's sepulchre, at the +celebration of his festival, by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with +aromatics, have been noticed by St. Paulinus:-- + + "With crowded lamps are these bright altars crowned, + And waxen tapers, shedding perfume round + From fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray, + To gladden night, and joy e'en radiant day." + + DR. ROCK'S _Hierurgia_. + +Constantine the Great provided fragrant oils, to be burned at the altars +of the greater churches in Rome; and St. Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of +the end of the fourth and beginning of the fifth century, tells us how, +in his times, wax tapers were made for church use, so as to shed +fragrance as they burned:-- + + "Lumina cerates adolentur odora papyris." + +A perfume in common use, even to this day, was the invention of one of +the earliest of the Roman nobles, named Frangipani, and still bears his +name; it is a powder, or sachet, composed of every known spice, in equal +proportions, to which is added ground iris or orris root, in weight +equal to the whole, with one per cent. of musk or civet. A liquid of the +same name, invented by his grandson Mercutio Frangipani, is also in +common use, prepared by digesting the Frangipane powder in rectified +spirits, which dissolves out the fragrant principles. This has the merit +of being the most lasting perfume made. + + "The trade for the East in perfume-drugs caused many a vessel to + spread its sails to the Red Sea, and many a camel to plod over + that tract which gave to Greece and Syria their importance as + markets, and vitality to the rocky city of Petra. Southern Italy + was not long ere it occupied itself in ministering to the luxury + of the wealthy, by manufacturing scented unguents and perfumes. So + numerous were the UNGUENTARII, or perfumers, that they + are said to have filled the great street of ancient + Capua."--HOFMANN. + +As an art, in England, perfumery has attained little or no distinction. +This has arisen from those who follow it as a trade, maintaining a +mysterious secrecy about their processes. No manufacture can ever become +great or important to the community that is carried on under a veil of +mystery. + + "On the subject of trade mystery I will only observe, that I am + convinced that it would be far more to the interest of + manufacturers if they were more willing to profit by the + experience of others, and less fearful and jealous of the supposed + secrets of their craft. It is a great mistake to think that a + successful manufacturer is one who has carefully preserved the + secrets of his trade, or that peculiar modes of effecting simple + things, processes unknown in other factories, and mysteries beyond + the comprehension of the vulgar, are in any way essential to skill + as a manufacturer, or to success as a trader."--PROFESSOR + SOLLY. + +If the horticulturists of England were instructed how to collect the +odors of flowers, a new branch of manufacture would spring up to vie +with our neighbors' skill in it across the Channel. + +Of our five senses, that of SMELLING has been treated with +comparative indifference. However, as knowledge progresses, the various +faculties with which the Creator has thought proper in his wisdom to +endow man will become developed, and the faculty of Smelling will meet +with its share of tuition as well as Sight, Hearing, Touch, and Taste. + +Flowers yield perfumes in all climates, but those growing in the warmer +latitudes are most prolific in their odor, while those from the colder +are the sweetest. Hooker, in his travels in Iceland, speaks of the +delightful fragrance of the flowers in the valley of Skardsheidi; we +know that winter-green, violets, and primroses are found here, and the +wild thyme, in great abundance. Mr. Louis Piesse, in company with +Captain Sturt, exploring the wild regions of South Australia, writes: +"The rains have clothed the earth with a green as beautiful as a +Shropshire meadow in May, and with flowers, too, as sweet as an English +violet; the pure white anemone resembles it in scent. The Yellow Wattle, +when in flower, is splendid, and emits a most fragrant odor." + +Though many of the finest perfumes come from the East Indies, Ceylon, +Mexico, and Peru, the South of Europe is the only real garden of utility +to the perfumer. Grasse and Nice are the principal seats of the art; +from their geographical position, the grower, within comparatively short +distances, has at command that change of climate best fitted to bring to +perfection the plants required for his trade. On the seacoast his Cassiae +grows without fear of frost, one night of which would destroy all the +plants for a season; while, nearer the Alps, his violets are found +sweeter than if grown in the warmer situations, where the orange tree +and mignionette bloom to perfection. England can claim the superiority +in the growth of lavender and peppermint; the essential oils extracted +from these plants grown at Mitcham, in Surrey, realize eight times the +price in the market of those produced in France or elsewhere, and are +fully worth the difference for delicacy of odor. + +The odors of plants reside in different parts of them, sometimes in the +roots, as in the iris and vitivert; the stem or wood, in cedar and +sandal; the leaves, in mint, patchouly, and thyme; the flower, in the +roses and violets; the seeds in the Tonquin bean and caraway; the bark, +in cinnamon, &c. + +Some plants yield more than one odor, which are quite distinct and +characteristic. The orange tree, for instance, gives three--from the +leaves one called _petit grain_; from the flowers we procure _neroli_; +and from the rind of the fruit, essential oil of orange, _essence of +Portugal_. On this account, perhaps, this tree is the most valuable of +all to the operative perfumer. + +The fragrance or odor of plants is owing, in nearly all cases, to a +perfectly volatile oil, either contained in small vessels, or sacs +within them, or generated from time to time, during their life, as when +in blossom. Some few exude, by incision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin, +olibanum, myrrh, &c.; others give, by the same act, what are called +balsams, which appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous +gum. Some of these balsams are procured in the country to which the +plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a time, straining, and +then boiling again, or evaporating it down till it assumes the +consistency of treacle. In this latter way is balsam of Peru procured +from the _Myroxylon peruiferum_, and the balsam of Tolu from the +_Myroxylon toluiferum_. Though their odors are agreeable, they are not +much applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by some they are +mixed with soap, and in England they are valued more for their medicinal +properties than for their fragrance. + + + + +SECTION II. + + "Were not summer's distillations left + A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass, + Beauty's effect with beauty were bereft, + Nor it, nor no remembrance what it was; + But flowers distilled, though they with winter meet, + Leese but their show, their substance still lives sweet." + + SHAKSPEARE. + + +The extensive flower farms in the neighborhood of Nice, Grasse, +Montpellier, and Cannes, in France, at Adrianople (Turkey in Asia), at +Broussa and Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a +measure indicate the commercial importance of that branch of chemistry +called perfumery. + +British India and Europe consume annually, at the very lowest estimate, +150,000 gallons of perfumed spirits, under various titles, such as eau +de Cologne, essence of lavender, esprit de rose, &c. The art of +perfumery does not, however, confine itself to the production of scents +for the handkerchief and bath, but extends to imparting odor to +inodorous bodies, such as soap, oil, starch, and grease, which are +consumed at the toilette of fashion. Some idea of the commercial +importance of this art may be formed, when we state that one of the +large perfumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs. of +orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers, 54,000 lbs. of +rose-leaves, 32,000 lbs. of jasmine blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets, +20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, besides rosemary, mint, +lemon, citron, thyme, and other odorous plants in large proportion. In +fact, the quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far +beyond the conception of those even used to abstract statistics. + +To the chemical philosopher, the study of perfumery opens a book as yet +unread; for the practical perfumer, on his laboratory shelves, exhibits +many rare essential oils, such as essential oil of the flower of the +_Acacia farnesiana_, essential oil of violets, tubereuse, jasmine, and +others, the compositions of which have yet to be determined. + +The exquisite pleasure derived from smelling fragrant flowers would +almost instinctively induce man to attempt to separate the odoriferous +principle from them, so as to have the perfume when the season denies +the flowers. Thus we find the alchemists of old, torturing the plants in +every way their invention could devise for this end; and it is on their +experiments that the whole art of perfumery has been reared. Without +recapitulating those facts which may be found diffused through nearly +all the old authors on medical botany, chemistry, pharmacy, and works of +this character, from the time of Paracelsus to Celnart, we may state at +once the mode of operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the +present day for preparing the various extracts or essences, waters, +oils, pomades, &c., used in his calling. + +The processes are divided into four distinct operations; viz.-- + +1. _Expression_; 2. _Distillation_; 3. _Maceration_; 4. _Absorption_. + +1. _Expression_ is only adopted where the plant is very prolific in its +volatile or essential oil,--_i.e._ its odor; such, for instance, as is +found in the pellicle or outer peel of the orange, lemon, and citron, +and a few others. In these cases, the parts of the plant containing the +odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth bag, and at others by +themselves into a press, and by mere mechanical force it is squeezed +out. The press is an iron vessel of immense strength, varying in size +from six inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain +one hundred weight or more; it has a small aperture at the bottom to +allow the expressed material to run for collection; in the interior is +placed a perforated false bottom, and on this the substance to be +squeezed is placed, covered with an iron plate fitting the interior; +this is connected with a powerful screw, which, being turned, forces the +substance so closely together, that the little vessels containing the +essential oils are burst, and it thus escapes. The common tincture press +is indeed a model of such an instrument. The oils which are thus +collected are contaminated with watery extracts, which exudes at the +same time, and from which it has to be separated; this it does by itself +in a measure, by standing in a quiet place, and it is then poured off +and strained. + +[Illustration: Pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water.] + +2. _Distillation._--The plant, or part of it, which contains the +odoriferous principle, is placed in an iron, copper, or glass pan, +varying in size from that capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, +and covered with water; to the pan a dome-shaped lid is fitted, +terminating with a pipe, which is twisted corkscrew fashion, and fixed +in a bucket, with the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel. The water +in the still--for such is the name of the apparatus--is made to boil; +and having no other exit, the steam must pass through the coiled pipe; +which, being surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses the +vapor before it can arrive at the tap. With the steam, the volatile +oils--_i.e._ perfume--rises, and is liquefied at the same time. The +liquids which thus run over, on standing for a time, separate into two +portions, and are finally divided with a funnel having a stopcock in the +narrow part of it. By this process, the majority of the volatile or +essential oils are procured. In some few instances alcohol--_i.e._ +rectified spirit of wine--is placed upon the odorous materials in lieu +of water, which, on being distilled, comes away with the perfuming +substance dissolved in it. But this process is now nearly obsolete, as +it is found more beneficial to draw the oil or essence first with water, +and afterwards to dissolve it in the spirit. The low temperature at +which spirit boils, compared with water, causes a great loss of +essential oil, the heat not being sufficient to disengage it from the +plant, especially where seeds such as cloves or caraway are employed. It +so happens, however, that the finest odors, the _recherche_ as the +Parisians say, cannot be procured by this method; then recourse is had +to the next process. + +[Illustration: Tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits +from oil.] + +3. _Maceration._--Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of +flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the least +understood in England; as this operation yields not only the most +exquisite essences indirectly, but also nearly all those fine pomades +known here as "French pomatums," so much admired for the strength of +fragrance, together with "French oils" equally perfumed. The operation +is conducted thus:--For what is called pomade, a certain quantity of +purified mutton or deer suet is put into a clean metal or porcelain pan, +this being melted by a steam heat; the kind of flowers required for the +odor wanted are carefully picked and put into the liquid fat, and +allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours; the fat has a +particular affinity or attraction for the oil of flowers, and thus, as +it were, draws it out of them, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly +perfumed; the fat is strained from the spent flowers, and fresh are +added four or five times over, till the pomade is of the required +strength; these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French +makers as Nos. 6, 12, 18, and 24, the higher numerals indicating the +amount of fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation is +followed; but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived +from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, and the same results are +obtained. These oils are called "Huile Antique" of such and such a +flower. + +When neither of the foregoing processes gives satisfactory results, the +method of procedure adopted is by,-- + +4. _Absorption_, or _Enfleurage._--The odors of some flowers are so +delicate and volatile, that the heat required in the previously named +processes would greatly modify, if not entirely spoil them; this +process is, therefore, conducted cold, thus:--Square frames, about three +inches deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, +are procured; over the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an +inch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spatula; into this the +flower buds are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged completely over it, and +there left from twelve to seventy-two hours. + +Some houses, such as that of Messrs. Pilar and Sons; Pascal Brothers; H. +Herman, and a few others, have 3000 such frames at work during the +season; as they are filled, they are piled one over the other, the +flowers are changed so long as the plants continue to bloom, which now +and then exceeds two or three months. + +For oils of the same plants, coarse linen cloths are imbued with the +finest olive oil or oil of ben, and stretched upon a frame made of iron; +on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days. This +operation is repeated several times, after which the cloths are +subjected to great pressure, to remove the now perfumed oil. + +As we cannot give any general rule for working, without misleading the +reader, we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come +to speak of the individual flower or plant. + + + + +SECTION III. + + +Whenever a Still is named, or an article is said to be distilled or +"drawn," it must be understood to be done so by steam apparatus, as this +is the only mode which can be adopted for obtaining anything like a +delicate odor; the old plan of having the fire immediately under the +still, conveying an empyreumatic or burnt smell to the result, has +become obsolete in every well-regulated perfumatory. + +The steam-still differs from the one described only in the lower part, +or pan, which is made double, so as to allow steam from a boiler to +circulate round the pan for the purpose of boiling the contents, instead +of the direct fire. In macerating, the heat is applied in the same way, +or by a contrivance like the common glue-pot, as made use of nowadays. + +This description of apparatus will be found very useful for experiments +which we will suggest by-and-by. + +The perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops of Paris and +London, are either simple or compound; the former are called extracts, +_extraits_, _esprits_, or essences, and the latter _bouquets_ and +nosegays, which are mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity +that no one flower or odor can be discovered as predominating over +another; and when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully +blended, they produce an exquisite sensation on the olfactory nerve, +and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to purchase them. + +We shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple extracts of +flowers. This will be followed by the process for preparing ambergris, +musk, and civet, substances, which, though of animal origin, are of the +utmost importance as forming a large part in the most approved bouquets; +and we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for all +the fashionable bouquets and nosegays, the value of which, we doubt not, +will be estimated according to the labor bestowed upon their analysis. + +In order to render the work more easy of consultation, we have adopted +the alphabetical arrangement in preference to a more scientific +classification. + +Among the collection of ottos of the East India Company at the +Exhibition of 1851, were several hitherto unknown in this country, and +possessing much interest. + +It is to be regretted, that no person having any practical knowledge of +perfumery was placed on the jury of Class IV or XXIX. Had such been the +case, the desires of the exhibitors would probably have been realized, +and European perfumers benefited by the introduction of new odors from +the East. Some of the ottos sent by a native perfumer of Benares were +deemed worthy of honorable mention. Such as _Chumeylee_, _Beyla_, +_Begla_, _Moteya_, and many others from the Moluccas, but without any +information respecting them. + +We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than a tithe of the plants +that have a perfume--only those will be mentioned that are used by the +operative perfumer, and such as are imitated by him in consequence of +there being a demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him +from obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under our +notice is-- + +ALLSPICE.--The odoriferous principle of allspice, commonly +called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried fruit, before it is +quite ripe, of the _Eugenia pimenta_ and _Myrtus pimenta_ with water. It +is thus procured as an essential oil; it is but little used in +perfumery, and when so, only in combination with other spice oils; for +scenting soap it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the +smell of cloves, and deserves more attention than it has hitherto +received. Mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with +one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms what may be termed +extract of allspice, which extract will be found very useful in the +manufacture of low-priced bouquets. + +ALMONDS. + + "Mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood; + If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load, + The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign, + Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain." + + VIRGIL. + +This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages. It may be procured by +distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe, and the kernels of +stone fruit; for trade purposes, it is obtained from the bitter +almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after +it is shelled. In the ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press +for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the cake +which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water, and +allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to +distillation. The reason for moistening the cake is well understood to +the practical chemist, and although we are not treating the subject of +perfumery in a chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not +be inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds does +not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that it is produced +by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and emulsine contained +in the almonds, together with the water that is added. Analogous +substances exist in laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be +pursued when they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened +cake into a bag of coarse cloth, or spread it upon a sieve, and then +force the stream through it; in either case, the essential oil of the +almond rises with the watery vapor, and is condensed in the still-worm. +In this concentrated form, the odor of almonds is far from agreeable; +but when diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half +ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very pleasant. + +[Illustration: Almond.] + +The essential oil of almonds, enters into combination with soap, cold +cream, and many other materials prepared by the perfumer; for which see +their respective titles. + +Fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential oil. + +In experiments with this substance, it must be carefully remembered that +it is exceedingly _poisonous_, and, therefore, great caution is +necessary in its admixture with substances used as a cosmetic, otherwise +dangerous results may ensue. + +_Artificial Otto of Almonds._--Five or six years ago, Mr. Mansfield, of +Weybridge, took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from +benzole. (Benzole is obtained from tar oil.) His apparatus, according to +the Report of the juries of the 1851 Exhibition, consists of a large +glass tube in the form of a coil, which at the upper end divides into +two tubes; each of which is provided with a funnel. A stream of nitric +acid flows slowly into one of the funnels, and benzole into the other. +The two substances meet at the point of union of the tubes, and a +combination ensues with the evolution of heat. As the newly formed +compound flows down through the coil it becomes cool, and is collected +at the lower extremity; it then requires to be washed with water, and +lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda, to render it fit for +use. Nitro-benzole, which is the chemical name for this artificial otto +of almonds, has a different odor to the true otto of almonds, but it can +nevertheless be used for perfuming soap. Mr. Mansfield writes to me +under date of January 3d, 1855:--"In 1851, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three +King Court, began to make this perfume under my license; latterly I +withdrew the license from them by their consent, and since then it is +not made that I am aware of." It is, however, quite common in Paris. + +ANISE.--The odorous principle is procured by distilling the +seeds of the plant _Pimpinella anisum_; the product is the oil of +aniseed of commerce. As it congeals at a temperature of about 50 deg. Fahr., +it is frequently adulterated with a little spermaceti, to give a certain +solidity to it, whereby other cheaper essential oils can be added to it +with less chance of detection. As the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in +spirit, and the spermaceti insoluble, the fraud is easily detected. + +This perfume is exceedingly strong, and is, therefore, well adapted for +mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums, but does not do nicely in +compounds for handkerchief use. + +BALM, oil of Balm, called also oil of Melissa, is obtained by +distilling the leaves of the _Melissa officinalis_ with water; it comes +from the still tap with the condensed steam or water, from which it is +separated with the tap funnel. But it is very little used in perfumery, +if we except its combination in _Aqua di Argento_. + +BALSAM.--Under this title there are two or three substances +used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of +storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the +_Myroxylon peruiferum_; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is +also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter +is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like +benzoin. + +Balsam of Tolu flows from the _Toluifera balsammum_. It resembles common +resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like +brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being +soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this +respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of +an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very +useful, though not so much used as they might be. + + "ULEX has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently + adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he + pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when + the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving + sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid, + if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams, + blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is + adulterated with common resin."--_Archives der Pharmacie_. + +Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same +manner, and possessing similar properties, with a slight variation of +odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above. + +They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the +trees that produce them are indigenous. + +BAY, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of +laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation +from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much +used. + +BERGAMOT.--This most useful perfume is procured from the +_Citrus Bergamia_, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a +soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and +good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age, +especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy +from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air, +and acquires a turpentine smell. + +It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar, +and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly +deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all +perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled. + +When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to +their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no +other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented +soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four +ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of +bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though well +covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading +ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see BOUQUETS). + +[Illustration: Styrax Benzoin.] + +BENZOIN, also called Benjamin.--This is a very useful substance +to perfumers. It exudes from the _Styrax benzoin_ by wounding the tree, +and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from +Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter +place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being +interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds. +When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily +condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is +called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic +acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is +derived. + +The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good basis for a +bouquet.[B] Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a +perfume made with an essential oil in spirit. + +The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles +(see PASTILLES), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla +pomade (see POMATUMS). + +CARAWAY.--This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation +from the seeds of the _Carum carui_. It has a very pleasant smell, quite +familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap, +for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the +continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with +oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a +similar way to cloves (see CLOVES). If caraway seeds are +ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see +SACHETS). + +CASCARILLA.--The bark is used in the formation of pastilles, +and also enters into the composition known as _Eau a Bruler_, for +perfuming apartments, to which we refer. + +The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and +that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The _Cascarilla gratissimus_ +is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are +gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both +the _C. fragrans_ and _C. fragilis_ are odoriferous. It behooves +perfumers, therefore, who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain +these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation. + +Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but +it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity. + +CASSIA.--The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling +the outer bark of the _Cinnamomum cassia_. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather +more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color; +in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is +principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military +soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it +therefore finds no place for handkerchief use. + +CASSIE.-- + + "The short narcissus and fair daffodil, + Pansies to please the sight, and _cassie_ sweet to swell." + + DRYDEN'S _Virgil_. + +This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the +best handkerchief bouquets. + +[Illustration: Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.] + +When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather +sickly sweet. + +It is procured by maceration from the _Acacia farnesiana_. The purified +fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for +several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight +or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many +flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in +a liquid state. + +After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient +only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing +for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The +_Huile de Cassie_, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar +manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond +oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a +solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral +fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented +pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that +belongs to the same genus as the _A. farnesiana_, and which grows most +luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle +plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers, +&c. + +To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best +quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best +rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has +digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw +from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich +flowery smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this +process--_maceration_, or, as it may be called, cold _infusion_, give a +more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely +dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit; +moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute +quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c., +it is the only practical mode of proceeding. + +In this, and all other similar cases, the pomatum must be cut up into +very small pieces, after the domestic manner of "chopping suet," prior +to its being infused in the alcohol. The action of the mixture is simply +a change of place in the odoriferous matter, which leaves the fat body +by the superior attraction, or affinity, as the chemists say, of the +spirits of wine, in which it freely dissolves. + +The major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off the pomatum +without trouble, but it still retains a portion in the interstices, +which requires time to drain away, and this must be assisted by placing +the pomatum in a large funnel, supported by a bottle, in order to +collect the remainder. Finally, all the pomatum, which is now called +_washed pomatum_, is to be put into a tin, which tin must be set into +hot water, for the purpose of melting its contents; when the pomatum +thus becomes liquefied, any extract that is still in it rises to the +surface, and can be skimmed off, or when the pomatum becomes cold it can +be poured from it. + +The washed pomatum is preserved for use in the manufacture of dressing +for the hair, for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted, on +account of the purity of the grease from which it was originally +prepared, but more particularly on account of a certain portion of odor +which it still retains; and were it not used up in this way, it would be +advisable to put it for a second infusion in spirit, and thus a weaker +extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles. + +I cannot leave cassie without recommending it more especially to the +notice of perfumers and druggists, as an article well adapted for the +purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades +for the hair. When diluted with other odors, it imparts to the whole +such a true flowery fragrance, that it is the admiration of all who +smell it, and has not a little contributed to the great sale which +certain proprietary articles have attained. + +We caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with cassia, which +has a totally different odor. See ACACIA POMADE. + +CEDAR WOOD now and then finds a place in a perfumer's +warehouse; when ground, it does well to form a body for sachet powder. +Slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting lamps, because +while burning an agreeable odor is evolved; some people use it also, in +this condition, distributed among clothes in drawers to "prevent moth." +On distillation it yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant. + +Messrs. Rigge and Co., of London, use it extensively for scenting soap. + +LEBANON CEDAR WOOD. (_For the Handkerchief._) + +Otto of cedar, 1 oz. +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Esprit rose trip, 1/4 pint. + +The tincture smells agreeably of the wood, from which it can readily be +made. Its crimson color, however, prohibits it from being used for the +handkerchief. It forms an excellent tincture for the teeth, and is the +basis of the celebrated French dentifrice "eau Botot." + +CEDRAT.--This perfume is procured from the rind of the citron +fruit (_Citrus medica_), both by distillation and expression; it has a +very beautiful lemony odor, and is much admired. It is principally used +in the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief, being too expensive +for perfuming grease or soap. What is called extract of cedrat is made +by dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in one +pint of spirits, to which some perfumers add half an ounce of bergamot. + +CINNAMON.--Several species of the plant _Laurus cinnamomum_ +yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its name is said to be +derived from _China Amomum_, the bark being one of the most valued +spices of the East. Perfumers use both the bark and the oil, which is +obtained by distillation from it. The ground bark enters into the +composition of some pastilles, tooth powders, and sachets. The essential +oil of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from Ceylon; it +is exceedingly powerful, and must be used sparingly. In such compounds +as cloves answer, so will cinnamon. + +CITRON.--On distilling the flowers of the _Citrus medica_, a +very fragrant oil is procured, which is a species of neroli, and is +principally consumed by the manufacturers of eau de Cologne. + +CITRONELLA.--Under this name there is an oil in the market, +chiefly derived from Ceylon and the East Indies; its true origin we are +unable to decide; in odor it somewhat resembles citron fruit, but is +very inferior. Probably it is procured from one of the grasses of the +_Andropogon_ genus. Being cheap, it is extensively used for perfuming +soap. What is now extensively sold as "honey" soap, is a fine yellow +soap slightly perfumed with this oil. Some few use it for scenting +grease, but it is not much admired in that way. + +CLOVES.--Every part of the clove plant (_Caryophyllus +aromaticus_) abounds with aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and +plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud, which are the cloves of +commerce. Cloves have been brought into the European market for more +than 2000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other islands +in the China seas. "The average annual crop of cloves," says Burnett, +"is, from each tree, 2 or 2-1/2 lbs., but a fine tree has been known to +yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a single season, and as 5000 cloves only +weigh one pound, there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this +single tree." + +[Illustration: Clove.] + +The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh +flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation, +which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few +essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of +cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be +seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a +leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences, +Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least +expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the +proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit. + +DILL.--Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it +is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more +used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is +rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill +water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the +complexion." + +The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill +(_Anethum graveolens_) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the +surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in +the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit +for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small +proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap. + +EGLANTINE, or SWEET BRIAR, notwithstanding what the +poet Robert Noyes says-- + + "In fragrance yields, + Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields," + +does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name. +This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of +collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more +or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is +discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a +species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:-- + +IMITATION EGLANTINE, OR ESSENCE OF SWEET BRIAR. + +Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1 pint. + " " cassie, 1/4 " + " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " +Esprit de rose, 1/4 " +Oil of neroli, 1/2 drachm. +Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil), 1/2 " + +ELDER (_Sambucus nigra_).--The only preparation of this plant +for its odorous quality used by the perfumer, is elder-flower water. To +prepare it, take nine pounds of elder-flowers, free from stalk, and +introduce it to the still with four gallons of water; the first three +gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use; one ounce +of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of "water" distilled, +and when bottled it is ready for sale. Other preparations of elder +flowers are made, such as milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which +will be found in their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new +materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter, which are +likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling +qualities of the ingredients; of these we would call attention more +particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers, and to elder oil for the +hair. + +The preparations of elder-flowers, if made according to the +Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the forms therein given show +an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed. + +FENNEL (_Foeniculum vulgare_).--Dried fennel herb, when +ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders. The oil of +fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils, may be used for +perfuming soap. It is procurable by distillation. + +FLAG (SWEET) (_Acorus calamus_).--The roots, or +rhizome, of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling +oil; 1 cwt. of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil. It can be +used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease, +soap, or for extracts, but requires other sweet oils with it to hide its +origin. + +GERANIUM (_Pelargonium odoratissimum_, rose-leaf +geranium).--The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very +agreeable rosy-smelling oil, so much resembling real otto of rose, that +it is used very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil, +and is grown very largely for that express purpose. It is principally +cultivated in the south of France, and in Turkey (by the rose-growers). +In the department of Seine-et-Oise, at Montfort-Lamaury, in France, +hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing. 1 cwt. of leaves will yield +about two ounces of essential oil. Used to adulterate otto of rose, it +is in its turn itself adulterated with ginger grass oil (_Andropogon_), +and thus formerly was very difficult to procure genuine; on account of +the increased cultivation of the plant, it is now, however, easily +procured pure. Some samples are greenish-colored, others nearly white, +but we prefer that of a brownish tint. + +When dissolved in rectified spirit, in the proportion of about six +ounces to the gallon, it forms the "extract of rose-leaf geranium" of +the shops. A word or two is necessary about the oil of geranium, as much +confusion is created respecting it, in consequence of there being an oil +under the name of geranium, but which in reality is derived from the +_Andropogon nardus_, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andropogon +(geranium!) oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium, and hence +we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf +geranium oil fetches about 6_s._ per ounce, while the andropogon oil is +not worth more than that sum per pound. And we may observe here, that +the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale +perfumers, as from the nature of their trade they have a better +knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker. +On account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium, +it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to +give the public great satisfaction. + +HELIOTROPE.--Either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified +fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the _Heliotrope +Peruvianum_ or _H. grandiflorum_. Exquisite as the odor of this plant +is, at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer. +This we think rather a singular fact, especially as the perfume is +powerful and the flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some +experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this +country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which +would most likely lead to successful results. For a small trial in the +first instance, which can be managed by any person having the run of a +garden, we will say, procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use, +which melts the material by the boiling of water; it is in fact a +water-bath, in chemical parlance--one capable of holding a pound or more +of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain half +a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it through a close +hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to drop +into cold spring water; this operation granulates and washes the blood +and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly inodorous +grease, the melting and granulation process may be repeated three or +four times; finally, remelt the fat and cast it into a pan to free it +from adhering water. + +Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in such +a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will keep +it warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you +can, and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time +strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this +operation for a week: we expect at the last straining the fat will have +become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed _Pomade +a la Heliotrope_. + +The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding, is now to be +put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered with spirits as highly +rectified as can be obtained, and left to digest for a week or more; the +spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed; in reality it will be +_extract of Heliotrope_, a delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The +rationale of the operation is simple enough: the fat body has a strong +affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of the +flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes itself +perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a much greater +attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the former, +therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter. The same +experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat. + +The experiment here hinted at, may be varied with any flowers that there +are to spare; indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was +mentioned above, an excellent _millefleur_ pomade and essence might be +produced from every conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive +another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of +form and color. + +We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments +of this nature will not be deterred by saying, "they are not worth the +trouble." It must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the +London perfumery warehouses 16_s._ per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine +_flowery-scented_ pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the +experiments are successful they should be published, as then we may hope +to establish a new and important manufacture in this country. But we are +digressing. + +The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla, and +is well imitated thus:-- + +EXTRACT OF HELIOTROPE. + +Spirituous extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + " " French rose pomatum, 1/4 " + " " orange-flower pomatum, 2 oz. + " " ambergris, 1 oz. +Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. + +A preparation made in this manner under the name of _Extract de +Heliotrope_ is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and +is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a +genuine extract of heliotrope. + +HONEYSUCKLE or WOODBINE:-- + + "Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan, + But well compensating her sickly looks + With never-cloying odors." + +What the poet Cowper here says is quite true; nevertheless, it is a +flower that is not used in practical perfumery, though there is no +reason for abandoning it. The experiments suggested for obtaining the +odor of Heliotrope and Millefleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable +to this, as also to Hawthorn. A good IMITATION OF HONEYSUCKLE +is made thus:-- + +Spirituous extract of rose pomatum, 1 pint. + " " violet " 1 " + " " tubereuse " 1 " +Extract of vanilla, 1/4 " + " Tolu, 1/4 " +Otto neroli, 10 drops. + " almonds, 5 " + +The prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would probably be too +high to meet the demand of a retail druggist; in such cases it may be +diluted with rectified spirit to the extent "to make it pay," and will +yet be a nice perfume. The formula generally given herein for odors is +in anticipation that when bottled they will retail for at least +eighteen-pence the fluid ounce! which is the average price put on the +finest perfumery by the manufacturers of London and Paris. + +HOVENIA.--A perfume under this name is sold to a limited +extent, but if it did not smell better than the plant _Hovenia dulcis_ +or _H. inequalis_, a native of Japan, it would not sell at all. The +article in the market is made thus:-- + +Rectified spirit, 1 quart. +Rose-water, 1/2 pint. +Otto lemons, 1/2 oz. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1/2 " + " neroli, 10 drops. + +First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-water. After +filtration it is ready for sale. When compounds of this kind do not +become bright by passing through blotting-paper, the addition of a +little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them. +The water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article +produced may be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be +better without that "universal friend." + +JASMINE.-- + + "Luxuriant above all, + The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets." + +This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer. Its odor is +delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without comparison, and +as such cannot be imitated. When the flowers of the _Jasminum +odoratissimum_ are distilled, repeatedly using the water of +distillation over fresh flowers, the essential oil of jasmine may be +procured. It is, however, exceedingly rare, on account of the enormous +cost of production. There was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in +the Tunisian department of the Crystal Palace, the price of which was +9_l._ the fluid ounce! The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which +our name is derived. + +In the perfumer's laboratory, the method of obtaining the odor is by +absorption, or, as the French term it, _enfleurage_; that is, by +spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray, and sticking +the fresh-gathered flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or +so, and repeating the operation with fresh flowers--the grease absorbs +the odor. Finally, the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate, melted +at as low a temperature as possible, and strained. + +Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in +the same way. Layers of cotton wool, previously steeped in oil of ben +(obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the _Moringa oleifera_) +are covered with jasmine flowers, which is repeated several times; +finally, the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use, are +squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus produced is the _Huile +antique au jasmin_ of the French houses. + +The "extract of jasmine" is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the +jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to remain together for a +fortnight at a summer heat. The best quality extract requires two +pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit. The same can be done with +the oil of jasmine. If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine +previously to being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be +shaken well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account of +its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface is +exposed to the spirit. After the extract is strained off, the "washed" +pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the composition of +pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any +of the "creams and balms," &c. &c., made up and scented with essential +oils; the one smells of the flower, the other "a nondescript." + +[Illustration: Jasmine.] + +The extract of jasmine enters into the composition of a great many of +the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold by the English and French +perfumers. Extract of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure, +but is one of those scents which, though very gratifying at first, +becomes what people call "sickly" after exposure to the oxidizing +influence of the air, but if judiciously mixed with other perfumes of an +opposite character is sure to please the most fastidious customer. + +JONQUIL.--The scent of the jonquil is very beautiful; for +perfumery purposes it is however but little cultivated in comparison +with jasmine and tubereuse. It is prepared exactly as jasmine. The +Parisian perfumers sell a mixture which they call "extract of jonquil." +The plant, however, only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring, +giving it its name. The so-called jonquil is made thus:-- + +Spirituous extract of jasmine pomade, 1 pint. +" " tubereuse " 1 " +" " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " +Extract of vanilla, 2 fluid ounces. + +LAUREL.--By distillation from the berries of the _Laurus +nobilis_, and from the leaves of the _Laurus cerasus_, an oil and +perfumed water are procurable of a very beautiful and fragrant +character. Commercially, however, it is disregarded, as from the +similarity of odor to the oil distilled from the bitter almond, it is +rarely, if ever, used by the perfumer, the latter being more economical. + +LAVENDER.--The climate of England appears to be better adapted +for the perfect development of this fine old favorite perfume than any +other on the globe. "The ancients," says Burnett, "employed the flowers +and the leaves to aromatize their baths, and to give a sweet scent to +water in which they washed; hence the generic name of the plant, +_Lavandula_." + +Lavender is grown to an enormous extent at Mitcham, in Surrey, which is +the seat of its production, in a commercial point of view. Very large +quantities are also grown in France, but the fine odor of the British +produce realizes in the market four times the price of that of +Continental growth. Burnett says that the oil of _Lavandula spica_ is +more pleasant than that derived from the other species, but this +statement must not mislead the purchaser to buy the French spike +lavender, as it is not worth a tenth of that derived from the _Lavandulae +verae_. Half-a-hundred weight of good lavender flowers yield, by +distillation, from 14 to 16 oz. of essential oil. + +All the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for perfuming +soaps and greases; but the best, that obtained from the Mitcham +lavender, is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender +water, but which, more properly, should be called essence or extract of +lavender, to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences +prepared with spirit. + +The number of formulae published for making a liquid perfume of lavender +is almost endless, but the whole of them may be resolved into essence of +lavender, simple; essence of lavender, compound; and lavender water. + +There are two methods of making essence of lavender:--1. By distilling +a mixture of essential oil of lavender and rectified spirit; and the +other--2. By merely mixing the oil and the spirit together. + +The first process yields the finest quality: it is that which is adopted +by the firm of Smyth and Nephew, whose reputation for this article is +such that it gives a good character in foreign markets, especially +India, to all products of lavender of English manufacture. Lavender +essence, that which is made by the still, is quite white, while that by +mixture only always has a yellowish tint, which by age becomes darker +and resinous. + +SMYTH'S LAVENDER. + +To produce a very fine distillate, take-- + +Otto of English Lavender, 4 oz. +Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 5 pints. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Mix and distil five pints for sale. Such essence of lavender is +expensive, but at 10_s._ a pint of 14 oz! there _is_ a margin for +profit. It not being convenient to the general dealer to sell distilled +lavender essence, the following form, by mixture, will produce a +first-rate article, and nearly as white as the above. + +ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. + +Otto of lavender, 3-1/2 oz. +Rectified spirit, 2 quarts. + +The perfumer's retail price for such quality is 8_s._ per pint of 14 oz. + +Many perfumers and druggists in making lavender water or essence, use a +small portion of bergamot, with an idea of improving its quality--a very +erroneous opinion; moreover, such lavender quickly discolors. + +LAVENDER WATER.--Take: + +English oil of lavender, 4 oz. +Spirit, 3 quarts. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Filter as above, and it is ready for sale. + +COMMON LAVENDER WATER.--Same form as the above, substituting +French lavender for the British. + +Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other lavender compounds, +will be given when we come to speak of compound perfumes, which will be +reserved until we have finished explaining the method of making the +simple essences. + +LEMON.--This fine perfume is abstracted from the _Citrus +limonum_, by expression, from the rind of the fruit. The otto of lemons +in the market is principally from Messina, where there are hundreds of +acres of "lemon groves." Otto of lemons, like all the ottos of the +Citrus family, is rapidly prone to oxidation when in contact with air +and exposure to light; a high temperature is also detrimental, and as +such is the case it should be preserved in a cool cellar. Most of the +samples from the gas-heated shelves of the druggists' shops, are as much +like essence of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons; rancid oil +of lemons may, in a great measure, be purified by agitation with warm +water and final decantation. When new and good, lemon otto may be freely +used in combination with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming +powders for the nursery. From its rapid oxidation, it should not be used +for perfuming grease, as it assists rather than otherwise all fats to +turn rancid; hence pomatums so perfumed will not keep well. In the +manufacture of other compound perfumes, it should be dissolved in +spirit, in the proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of +spirit. There is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the +manufacture of Eau de Cologne; that Farina uses it is easily discovered +by adding a few drops of Liq. Ammoniae fort. to half an ounce of his Eau +de Cologne, the smell of the lemon is thereby brought out in a +remarkable manner. + +Perhaps it is not out of place here to remark, that in attempts to +discover the composition of certain perfumes, we are greatly assisted by +the use of strong Liq. Ammoniae. Certain of the essential oils combining +with the Ammonia, allow those which do not do so, if present in the +compound, to be smelt. + +LEMON GRASS.--According to Pereira, the otto in the market +under this name is derived from the _Andropogon schoenanthus_ a +species of grass which grows abundantly in India. It is cultivated to a +large extent in Ceylon and in the Moluccas purposely for the otto, which +from the plant is easily procured by distillation. Lemon grass otto, or, +as it is sometimes called, oil of verbena, on account of its similarity +of odor to that favorite plant, is imported into this country in old +English porter and stout bottles. It is very powerful, well adapted for +perfuming soaps and greases, but its principal consumption is in the +manufacture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively low +price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the lemon grass +otto may be much more used than at present, with considerable advantage +to the retail shopkeeper. + +LILAC.--The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub +is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of +maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and afterwards treating the +pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit, in the same manner as +previously described for cassie; the odor so much resembles tubereuse, +as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter, the demand for +tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply. A beautiful +IMITATION OF ESSENCE OF WHITE LILAC may be compounded thus:-- + +Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade, 1 pint. + " of orange-flower pomade, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. +Extract of civet, 1/2 oz. + +The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the +handkerchief. + +LILY.--The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the +inspired writer, to "consider the lilies of the field." Rich as they are +in odor, they are not cultivated for their perfume. If lilies are thrown +into oil of sweet almonds, or ben oil, they impart to it their sweet +smell; but to obtain anything like fragrance, the infusion must be +repeated a dozen times with the same oil, using fresh flowers for each +infusion, after standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal +quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odor to the alcohol, and +thus extract of lilies _may_ be made. But how it _is_ made is thus:-- + +IMITATION "LILY OF THE VALLEY." + +Extract of tubereuse, 1/2 pint. + " jasmine, 1 oz. + " fleur d'orange, 2 oz. + " vanilla, 3 oz. + " cassie, 1/4 pint. + " rose, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It +is a perfume that is very much admired. + +MACE.--Ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those +scented powders called Sachets. A strong-smelling essential oil may be +procured from it by distillation, but it is rarely used. + +MAGNOLIA.--The perfume of this flower is superb; practically, +however, it is of little use to the manufacturer, the large size of the +blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used, but a +very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under, and is that which +is found in the perfumers' shops of London and Paris. + +IMITATION "ESSENCE OF MAGNOLIA." + +Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum, 1 pint. + " " rose pomatum, 2 pints. + " " tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 pint. + " " violet pomatum, 1/2 " +Essential oil of citron, 3 drs. + " " almonds, 10 drops. + +MARJORAM.--The otto procured by distilling _Origanum majorana_, +commonly called oil of oringeat by the French, is exceedingly powerful, +and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species +of thyme, of which the marjoram is one. One hundred weight of the dry +herb yields about ten ounces of the otto. Oringeat oil is extensively +used for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It is the +chief ingredient used by Gelle Freres, of Paris, for scenting their +"Tablet Monstre Soap," so common in the London shops. + +MEADOW SWEET.--A sweet-smelling otto can be produced by +distilling the _Spiraea ulmaria_, but it is not used by perfumers. + +MELISSA. See BALM. + +MIGNONETTE.--But for the exquisite odor of this little flower, +it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed. Sweet as it is in +its natural state, and prolific in odor, we are not able to maintain its +characteristic smell as an essence. Like many others, during separation +from the plant, the fragrance is more or less modified; though not +perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers. To give +it that sweetness which it appears to want, a certain quantity of +violet is added to bring it up to the market odor. + +As this plant is so very prolific in odor, we think something might be +done with it in England, especially as it flourishes as well in this +country as in France; and we desire to see Flower Farms and organized +Perfumatories established in the British Isles, for the extraction of +essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are +indigenous, or that thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides +opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it +would give healthy employment to many women and children. Open air +employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the +stamina of the future generation; for it cannot be denied that our +factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical +condition of the human family. + +To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette, or, as it is +more often sold under the name of Extrait de Rezeda, is prepared by +infusing the rezeda pomade in rectified spirit, in the proportion of one +pound of pomade to one pint of spirit, allowing them to digest together +for a fortnight, when the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce +of extrait d'ambre is added to every pint. This is done to give +permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, and does not in any way +alter its odor. + +MIRIBANE.--The French name for artificial essence of almond +(see ALMOND). + +MINT.--All the _Menthidae_ yield fragrant ottos by +distillation. The otto of the spear-mint (_M. viridis_) is exceedingly +powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in conjunction with +other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture +of mouth-washes and dental liquids. The leading ingredient in the +celebrated "eau Botot" is oil of peppermint in alcohol. A good imitation +may be made thus:-- + +EAU DE BOTOT. + +Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. + " myrrh, 1 oz. +Oil of peppermint, 1/2 dr. + " spear mint, 1/4 dr. + " cloves, 10 drops. + " roses, 10 " + +Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main +object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any +other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must +be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as +for a dentifrice. + +MYRTLE.--A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling +both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will +yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of +myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is +very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:-- + +IMITATION ESSENCE OF MYRTLE. + +Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + " roses 1 " +Extract of fleur d'orange, 1/2 pint. + " tubereuse, 1/2 " + " jasmine, 2 oz. + +Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and +is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction. + +Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and +may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters. + +NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.--Two distinct odors are procurable +from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for +procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a +great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of +inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the +orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose--probably to +all flowers. + +When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by +infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength +and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower +made in the same grease. + +By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the +proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of +spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de +fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume +surpassed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so +much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the +scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar flowery odor +of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a +pure state, but slightly modified with other _extraits_ passes for +"sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance. + +[Illustration: Orange.] + +Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto +of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli +procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be +the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality, +"neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the _Citrus +bigaradia_, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered +inferior to the preceding, is the neroli petit grain, obtained by +distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different +species of the citrus. + +The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the +manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The petit +grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de +neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified +spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the +manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the +extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by +maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from +another plant, yet in theory both these _extraits_ are but alcoholic +solutions of the otto of the flower. + +The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed +from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de +fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for +the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, +and it is astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price. +(See _Syringa_.) + +NUTMEG.--The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all. +Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it +is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used +advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent +bags.--See "Sachet's Powders." + +OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this +country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly +interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent +mention is made in the Holy volume.[C] + +"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in +the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the +Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the +altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service." + +Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, +probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated +with the benzoic acid it contains. + +For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum +to 1 gallon of the spirit. + +ORANGE.--Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the +odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of +what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more +frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we +cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants." + +The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, +is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in +order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto. + +Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of +a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant +illumination. + +It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds +many admirers. + +It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau +de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing + +LISBON WATER. + +Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon. +Otto of orange peel, 3 oz. + " lemon peel, 3 oz. + " rose 1/4 oz. + +This is a form for + +EAU DE PORTUGAL. + +Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon. +Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz. + " lemon peel, 1 oz. + " lemon grass, 1/4 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + " otto of rose, 1/4 oz. + +It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet +bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the +ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the +mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be _spirit rinsed_ prior to being +filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences +of orange or lemon peel. + +ORRIS, properly IRIS.--The dried rhizome of _Iris +florentina_ has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better +comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, +exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when +such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless the perfume of iris +root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a +perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used +in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that +celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or, +as the perfumers call it, + +EXTRACT OF ORRIS, + +Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs. +Rectified spirits, 1 gallon. + +After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to +take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent +loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press. +This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated +bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone, +because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand +public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very +great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of +strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and +steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire +inflammable bodies. + +PALM.--The odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to +a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the +odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the +tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and +is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been +made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have +failed from bad seasons. + +PATCHOULY.--_Pogostemon patchouly_ (LINDLEY), +_Plectranthus crassifolius_ (BURNETT), is an herb that grows +extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in +its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy. + +[Illustration: Patchouly.] + +The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and +stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will +yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, +and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it +resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of +any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion +of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other +bodies. + +EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY. + +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. +Otto of patchouly, 1-1/4 oz. + " rose, 1/4 oz. + +The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the +perfumers' shops of Paris and London. Although few perfumes have had +such a fashionable run, yet when smelled at in its pure state, it is far +from agreeable, having a kind of mossy or musty odor, analogous to +Lycopodium, or, as some say, it smells of "old coats." + +The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due to some +admixture of this herb. + +The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in Europe is curious. A +few years ago real Indian shawls bore an extravagant price, and +purchasers could always distinguish them by their odor; in fact, they +were perfumed with patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time +successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor. + +At length they discovered the secret, and began to import the plant to +perfume articles of their make, and thus palm off homespun shawls as +real Indian! From this origin the perfumers have brought it into use. +Patchouly herb is extensively used for scenting drawers in which linen +is kept; for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put them +into muslin sacks, covered with silk, after the manner of the +old-fashioned lavender-bag. In this state it is very efficacious in +preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths. Several +combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes for "bouquets and +nosegays." + +PEA (SWEET).--A very fine odor may be abstracted from +the flowers of the chick-vetch by maceration in any fatty body, and then +digesting the pomade produced in spirit. It is, however, rarely +manufactured, because a very close + +IMITATION OF THE ESSENCE OF SWEET PEA. + +can be prepared thus:-- + +Extract of tuberose, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, 1/2 " + " rose from pomatum, 1/2 " + " vanilla, 1 oz. + +Scents, like sounds, appear to influence the olfactory nerve in certain +definite degrees. There is, as it were, an octave of odors like an +octave in music; certain odors coincide, like the keys of an instrument. +Such as almond, heliotrope, vanilla, and orange-blossoms blend together, +each producing different degrees of a nearly similar impression. Again, +we have citron, lemon, orange-peel, and verbena, forming a higher octave +of smells, which blend in a similar manner. The metaphor is completed by +what we are pleased to call semi-odors, such as rose and rose geranium +for the half note; petty grain, neroli, a black key, followed by fleur +d'orange. Then we have patchouli, sandal-wood, and vitivert, and many +others running into each other. + +From the odors already known we may produce, by uniting them in proper +proportion, the smell of almost any flower, except jasmine. + +The odor of some flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost +induced to believe them to be the same thing, or, at least, if not +evolved from the plant as such, to become so by the action of the +air-oxidation. It is known that some actually are identical in +composition, although produced from totally different plants, such as +camphor, turpentine, rosemary. Hence we may presume that chemistry will +sooner or later produce one from the other, for with many it is merely +an atom of water or an atom of oxygen that causes the difference. It +would be a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rosemary, or +from the rose geranium oil, and theory indicates its possibility. + +The essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains a good deal of +air-oxygen, and but a very little of the oil, spontaneously passes into +another odoriferous body, benzoic acid; which is seen in crystals to +form over the dry parts of the flask. This is a natural illustration of +this idea. In giving the recipe for "sweet pea" as above, we form it +with the impression that its odor resembles the orange-blossom, which +similarity is approached nearer by the addition of the rose and +tuberose. + +The vanilla is used merely to give permanence to the scent on the +handkerchief, and this latter body is chosen in preference to extract of +musk or ambergris, which would answer the same purpose of giving +permanence to the more volatile ingredients; because the vanilla +strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom, and +thus no new idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume +dies off from the handkerchief. When perfumes are not mixed upon this +principle, then we hear that such and such a perfume becomes "sickly" or +"faint" after they have been on the handkerchief a short time. + +PINE-APPLE.--Both Dr. Hoffman and Dr. Lyon Playfair have fallen +into some error in their inferences with regard to the application of +this odor in perfumery. After various practical experiments conducted in +a large perfumatory, we have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so +applied, simply because when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at, +the vapor produces an involuntary action of the larynx, producing cough, +when exceedingly dilute. Even in the infinitesimal portions it still +produces disagreeable irritation of the air-pipes, which, if prolonged, +such as is expected if used upon a handkerchief, is followed by intense +headache. It is obvious, therefore, that the legitimate use of the +essence of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adapted with benefit to +the manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the confectioner as a +flavoring material. What we have here said refers to the artificial +essence of pine-apple, or butyrate of ethyloxide, which, if very much +diluted with alcohol, resembles the smell of pine-apple, and hence its +name; but how far the same observations are applicable to the true +essential oil from the fruit or epidermis of the pine-apple, remains to +be seen _when_ we procure it. As the West Indian pine-apples are now +coming freely into the market, the day is probably not distant when +demonstrative experiments can be tried; but hitherto it must be +remembered our experiments have only been performed with a body +_resembling in smell_ the true essential oil of the fruit. The physical +action of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to prevent +their application in perfumery, however useful in confectionary, which +it is understood has to deal with another of the senses,--not of smell, +but of taste. The commercial "essence of pine-apple," or "pine-apple +oil," and "jargonelle pear-oil," are admitted only to be _labelled_ +such, but really are certain organic acid ethers. For the present, then, +perfumers must only look on these bodies as so many lines in the "Poetry +of Science," which, for the present, are without practical application +in his art. + +PINK.--_Dianthus Caryophyllus._--The clove pink emits a most +fragrant odor, "especially at night," says Darwin. + + "The lavish pink that scents the garden round," + +is not, however, at present applied in perfumery, except in name. + +IMITATION ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK. + +Esprit rose, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " + " " de cassie, 1/4 " + " vanilla, 2 oz. +Oil of cloves, 10 drops. + +It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the +flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing." + +RHODIUM.--When rose-wood, the lignum of the _Convolvulus +scoparius_, is distilled, a sweet-smelling oil is procured, resembling +in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose, and hence its name. At +one time, that is, prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf geranium, +the distillates from rose-wood and from the root of the _Genista +canariensis_ (Canary-rose-wood), were principally drawn for the +adulteration of real otto of roses, but as the geranium oil answers so +much better, the oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse, hence its +comparative scarcity in the market at the present day, though our +grandfathers knew it well. One cwt. of wood yields about three ounces of +oil. + +Ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manufacture of sachet +powders for perfuming the wardrobe. + +The French have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood, under the idea +that the plant called jacaranda by the Brazilians yields it, which is +not the case; "the same word has perhaps been the origin of +palisander--palixander, badly written."--_Burnett_. + +ROSE.-- + + "Go, crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom, + And waft its spoils, a sweet perfume, + In incense to the skies." + + OGILVIE. + +This queen of the garden loses not its diadem in the perfuming world. +The oil of roses, or, as it is commonly called, the otto, or attar, of +roses, is procured (contrary to so many opposite statements) simply by +distilling the roses with water. + +The otto, or attar, of rose of commerce is derived from the _Rosa +centifolia provincialis_. Very extensive rose farms exist at Adrianople +(Turkey in Europe); at Broussa, now famous as the residence of +Abd-el-Kader; and at Uslak (Turkey in Asia); also at Ghazepore, in +India. + +The cultivators in Turkey are principally the Christian inhabitants of +the low countries of the Balkan, between Selimno, and Carloya, as far as +Philippopolis, in Bulgaria, about 200 miles from Constantinople. In good +seasons, this district yields 75,000 ounces; but in bad seasons only +20,000 to 30,000 ounces of attar are obtained. It is estimated that it +requires at least 2000 rose blooms to yield one drachm of otto. + +The otto slightly varies in odor from different districts; many places +furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than others, and, +therefore, this is not a sure guide of purity, though many consider it +such. That which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace of 1851, as "from +Ghazepore," in India, obtained the prize. + + "Attar of roses, made in Cashmere, is considered superior to any + other; a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the + flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty. + A large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run + off into an open vessel, placed over night in a cool running + stream, and in the morning the oil is found floating on the + surface in minute specks, which are taken off very carefully by + means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green + color, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature + about that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of + leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar."--_Indian + Encyclopaedia._ + +Pure otto of roses, from its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers; +when diluted, however, there is nothing to equal it in odor, especially +if mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the +esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very +fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto. + +The finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at Grasse, in France. +Here the flowers are not treated for the otto, but are subjected to the +process of maceration in fat, or in oil, as described under jasmine, +heliotrope, &c. + +The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say 8 lbs. of No. 24 +Pomade to one gallon of spirit, yields an esprit de rose of the first +order, very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to +spirit. It is difficult to account for this difference, but it is +sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor. See the article on +fleur d'orange and neroli (pp. 77, 78), which have similar qualities, +previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French rose +pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer; he reserves this to form +part of his _recherche_ bouquets. + +Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it now for some +time to country practitioners, for them to form extemporaneous +rose-water, which it does to great perfection. Roses are cultivated to +a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use, +to make rose-water. In the season when successive crops can be got, +which is about the end of June, or the early part of July, they are +gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to town in sacks. When they +arrive, they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor: otherwise, if +left in a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as +to be quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs +oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered +roses. + +To preserve these roses, the London perfumers immediately pickle them; +for this purpose, the leaves are separated from the stalks, and to every +bushel of flowers, equal to about six pounds' weight, one pound of +common salt is thoroughly rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water existing +in the petals, and rapidly becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty +mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way they will keep +almost any length of time, without the fragrance being seriously +injured. A good rose-water can be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of +pickled roses, and 2-1/2 gallons of water. "Draw" off two gallons; the +product will be the double-distilled rose-water of the shops. The +rose-water that is imported from the South of France is, however, very +superior in odor to any that can be produced here. As it is a residuary +product of the distillation of roses for procuring the attar, it has a +richness of aroma which appears to be inimitable with English-grown +roses. There are four modifications of essence of rose for the +handkerchief, which are the _ne plus ultra_ of the perfumer's art. They +are,--esprit de rose triple, essence of white of roses, essence of tea +rose, and essence of moss rose. The following are the recipes for their +formation:-- + +ESPRIT DE ROSE TRIPLE. + +Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. +Otto of rose, 3 oz. + +Mix at a summer heat; in the course of a quarter of an hour the whole of +the otto is dissolved, and is then ready for bottling and sale. In the +winter season beautiful crystals of the otto--if it is good--appear +disseminated through the esprit. + +ESSENCE OF MOSS ROSE. + +Spirituous extract from French Rose pomatum, 1 quart. +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +Extracts fleur d'orange pomatum, 1 " + " of ambergris, 1/2 " + " musk, 4 oz. + +Allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight; then filter, +if requisite, and it is ready for sale. + +ESSENCE OF WHITE ROSE. + +Esprit de rose from pomatum, 1 quart. + " " triple, 1 " + " violette, 1 " +Extracts of jasmine 1 pint. + " patchouly, 1/2 " + +ESSENCE OF TEA ROSE. + +Esprit de rose pomade, 1 pint. +" " triple, 1 " +Extract of rose-leaf geranium, 1 " + " sandal-wood, 1/2 " + " neroli, 1/4 " + " orris, 1/4 " + +ROSEMARY.-- + + "There's rosemary, that's for remembrance." + + SHAKSPEARE. + +By distilling the _Rosmarinus officinalis_ a thin limpid otto is +procured, having the characteristic odor of the plant, which is more +aromatic than sweet. One cwt. of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four +ounces of oil. Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery, +especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap. Eau de +Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary +water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the composition of + +HUNGARY WATER. + +Rectified alcohol, 1 gallon. +Otto of English rosemary, 2 oz. +" lemon-peel, 1 oz. +" balm (_Melissa_), 1 oz. +" mint, 1/2 drachm. +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Extract of fleur d'orange, 1 " + +It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne, and is said to +take its name from one of the queens of Hungary, who is reported to +have derived great benefit from a bath containing it, at the age of +seventy-five years. There is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while +speaking for any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their +handkerchief with Hungary water or eau de Cologne, as the rosemary they +contain excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the stimulant +being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief +wetted with these "waters." Shakspeare giving us the key, we can +understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are +universally said to be "so refreshing!" + +SAGE.--A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation +from any of the _Salvieae_. It is rarely used, but is nevertheless very +valuable in combination for scenting soap. + +Dried sage-leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets. + +SANTAL.--_Santalum album_. + + "The santal tree perfumes, when riven, + The axe that laid it low." CAMERON. + +This is an old favorite with the lovers of scent; it is the wood that +possesses the odor. The finest santal-wood grows in the island of Timor, +and the Santal-wood Islands, where it is extensively cultivated for the +Chinese market. In the religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos, +and Chinese, santal-wood is burned, by way of incense, to an extent +almost beyond belief. The _Santala_ grew plentifully in China, but the +continued offerings to the Buddahs have almost exterminated the plant +from the Celestial Empire; and such is the demand, that it is about to +be cultivated in Western Australia, in the expectation of a profitable +return, which we doubt not will be realized; England alone would consume +tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other +perfuming substances. The otto which exists in the santal-wood is +readily procured by distillation; 1 cwt. of good wood will yield about +30 ounces of otto. + +[Illustration: Santal-wood.] + +The white ant, which is so common in India and China, eating into every +organic matter that it comes across, appears to have no relish for +santal-wood; hence it is frequently made into caskets, jewel-boxes, +deed-cases, &c. This quality, together with its fragrance, renders it a +valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the East. + +The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all others +oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a dark straw color. +When dissolved in spirit, it enters into the composition of a great many +of the old-fashioned bouquets, such as "Marechale," and others, the +formulae of which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is +called + +EXTRAIT DE BOIS DE SANTAL. + +Rectified spirits, 7 pints. +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz. + +All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are +nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil +used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's +_mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an +object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to +sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a +perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures +are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides +the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter, +which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously +staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this +reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon +silk handkerchiefs. + +The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the +cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of +roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose. + +By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel." + +SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of +the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and +other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell +than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau +Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but +is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras. + +SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the +_Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.) + +STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way +as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of +tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very +volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last +longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any +perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add +to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as +extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris, +vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion +as to which of these materials are to be employed, choosing, of course, +those which are most compatible with the odor he is making. + +The power which these bodies have of "fixing" a volatile substance, +renders them valuable to the perfumer, independent of their aroma, which +is due in many cases to benzoic acid, slightly modified by an esential +oil peculiar to each substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, +together with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a +handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first: thus, after the +alcohol has evaporated, the odor of the ottos appear stronger; if it +contains any resinous body, the ottos are held in solution, as it were, +by the resin, and thus retained on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be +made of otto only, without any "fixing" substance, then, as the perfume +"dies away," the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its +composition, for it spontaneously analyzes itself, no two ottos having +the same volatility: thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine, and +patchouly; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose, and, lastly, +the patchouly, which will be found hours after the others have +disappeared. + +SYRINGA.--The flowers of the _Philadelphus coronarius_, or +common garden syringa, have an intense odor resembling the +orange-blossom; so much so, that in America the plant is often termed +"mock orange." A great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin, a la +fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of Cannes, is nothing more than +fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process. +Fine syringa pomade could be made in England at a quarter the cost of +what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum. + +THYME.--All the different species of thyme, but more +particularly the lemon thyme, the _Thymus serpyllum_, as well as the +marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant ottos, that are +extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps; though +well adapted for this purpose, they do not answer at all in any other +combinations. Both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an +herby smell (very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a +consequence, they are not considered _recherche_. + +When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they usefully enter into +the composition of sachet powders. + +TONQUIN, or TONKA.--The seeds of the _Dipterix +odorata_ are the tonquin or _coumarouma_ beans of commerce. When fresh +they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odor of newly made hay. +The _Anthoxanthum odoratum_, or sweet-smelling vernal grass, to which +new hay owes its odor, probably yields identically the same fragrant +principle, and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal +grass, while actually growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly +aromatic when severed from the parent stock. + +Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting, containing, +when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which their odor is +principally due), benzoic acid, a fat oil and a neutral +principal--_Coumarin_. In perfumery they are valuable, as, when ground, +they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet, and by +infusion in spirit, the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a +thousand of the compound essences; but on account of its great strength +it must be used with caution, otherwise people say your perfume is +"snuffy," owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use +in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust. + +[Illustration: Tonquin.] + +EXTRACT OF TONQUIN. + +Tonquin beans, 1 lb. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this maceration they are +still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as POT +POURRI, OLLA PODRIA, &c. The extract of tonquin, like +extract of orris and extract of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only +used in the manufacture of compound perfumes. It is the leading +ingredient in _Bouquet du Champ_--The field Bouquet--the great +resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field, renders it a favorite +to the lovers of the pastoral. + +TUBEROSE.--One of the most exquisite odors with which we are +acquainted is obtained by _enfleurage_ from the tuberose flower. It is, +as it were, a nosegay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful +perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close; +consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet +essences. + +EXTRACT OF TUBEROSE. + +Eight pounds of No. 24 tuberose pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be +placed into 1 gallon of the best rectified spirit. After standing for +three weeks or a month at summer heat, and with frequent agitation, it +is fit to draw off, and being strained through cotton wool, is ready +either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets. + +This essence of tuberose, like that of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile, +and if sold in its pure state quickly "flies off" the handkerchief; it +is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient, and for this +purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris, or half an +ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint of tuberose. + +VANILLA.--The pod or bean of the _Vanilla planifolia_ yields a +perfume of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it +becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing +properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it in +composition. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this, when +viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light. + +[Illustration: Vanilla.] + +EXTRACT OF VANILLA. + +Vanilla pods, 1/2 lb. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut +them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with +occasional agitation for about a month; the tincture thus formed will +only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is +required. In this state it is rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed +in the manufacture of compound odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they +are called. + +Extract of Vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of +hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla +with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water, and afterwards +filtering. + +We need scarcely mention, that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and +confectioners for flavoring. + +VERBENA, or VERVAINE.--The scented species of this +plant, the lemon verbena, _Aloysia citriodora_ (Hooker), gives one of +the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as +yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the +plant; some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be +crushed in this act, as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at +the plant. + +The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with +water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the +manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing +the otto of lemon grass, _Andropogon schoenanthus_, with rectified +spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The +following is a good form for making the + +EXTRACT OF VERBENA. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Otto of lemon grass, 3 drachms. + " lemon peel, 2 oz. + " orange peel, 1/2 oz. + +After standing together for a few hours and then filtering, it is fit +for sale. + +Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the +same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus--it is sold under +the title + +EXTRAIT DE VERVEINE. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Otto of orange peel, 1 oz. + " lemon peel, 2 oz. + " citron, 1 drachm. + " lemon grass, 2-1/2 drachms. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz. + " " tubereuse, 7 oz. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. + +This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant +perfumes that is made. Being white, it does not stain the handkerchief. +It is best when sold fresh made, as by age the citrine oils oxidize, and +the perfume acquires an ethereal odor, and then customers say "it is +sour." The vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great +many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title "Court +Bouquet," and others which are mixtures of violet, rose, and jasmine, +with verbena or vervaine in different proportions. In these +preparations, as also in Eau de Portugal, and in fact where any of the +citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is obtained by using grape +spirit or brandy in preference to the English corn spirit as a solvent +for them. Nor do they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in +English. Whether this be due to the oil of wine (oeanthic ether) or +not we cannot say, but think it is so. + +VIOLET.-- + + "The forward violet thus did I chide: + Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells, + If not from my love's breath?" + +The perfume exhaled by the _Viola odorata_ is so universally admired, +that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous. The demand +for the "essence of violets" is far greater than the manufacturing +perfumers are at present able to supply, and as a consequence, it is +difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of +trade. + +Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail perfumers of the +West End of London, but at a price that prohibits its use except by the +affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion. The violet farms from +whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive +at Nice and Grasse, also in the neighborhood of Florence. The true +smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated: a +very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with +the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is probably a true +impression. Burnett says that the plant _Viola tricolor_ (heart's ease), +when bruised, smells like peach kernels, and doubtless, therefore, +contains prussic acid. + +The flowers of the heart's ease are scentless, but the plant evidently +contains a principle which in other species of the Viola, is eliminated +as the "sweet that smells" so beautifully alluded to by Shakspeare. + +For commercial purposes, the odor of the violet is procured in +combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely according to the +methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other +flowers before mentioned, such as those for cassie, jasmine, +orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or by _enfleurage_, the former +method being principally adopted, followed by, when "essence" is +required, digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol. + +Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green color, and, +though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain a white fabric, and +its odor is perfectly natural. + +The essence of violet, as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, +according to the quality and strength of the pomade:--Take from six to +eight pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it into +one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit, +allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain off the +essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris +root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie; it is then fit for sale. + +We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture +of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels upon them inferring +the contents to be "Extract of Violet;" customers thus once "taken in" +are not likely to be so a second time. + +A good IMITATION ESSENCE OF VIOLETS is best prepared thus-- + +Spirituous extract of cassie pomade, 1 pint. +Esprit de rose, from pomade, 1/2 " +Tincture of orris, 1/2 " +Spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, 1/2 " +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture, it is the +extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but modified by the rose +and tuberose becomes very much like the violet. Moreover, it has a green +color, like the extract of violet; and as the eye influences the +judgment by the sense of taste, so it does with the sense of smell. +Extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the +most popular bouquets, such as extract of spring flowers and many +others. + +VITIVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass. In the +neighborhood of Calcutta, and in the city, this material has an +extensive use by being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and +sun-shades, called Tatty. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles +water over them; this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation +of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the atmosphere, in a very +agreeable manner, with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert. It has +a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers--if such +a distinction can be admitted. We classify it with orris root, not that +it has any odor resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use +in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its +odor. + +About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported, being cut +small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight, +produces the + +ESSENCE OF VITIVERT of the shops. In this state it is rarely +used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by those who, +perhaps, have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in +"the Eastern clime." The extract, essence, or tincture of vitivert, +enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old +bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in England, such as +"_Mousselaine des Indies_," for which preparation M. Delcroix, in the +zenith of his fame, created quite a _furor_ in the fashionable world. + +[Illustration: Vitivert.] + +Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of otto of vitivert +in 1 gallon of spirit; this preparation is stronger than the tincture, +as above. + +MARECHALE and BOUQUET DU ROI, perfumes which have also +"had their day," owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained +in them. + +Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth, +and, when ground, is used to manufacture certain sachet powders. + +Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation; a hundred-weight of +vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appearance very much +resembles otto of santal. I have placed a sample of it in the museum at +Kew. + +VOLKAMERIA.--An exquisite perfume is sold under this name, +presumed, of course, to be derived from the _Volkameria inermis_ +(LINDLEY). Whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that +plant, or whether the plant blooms at all, we are unable to say. It is a +native of India, and seems to be little known even in the botanic +gardens of this country; however, the plant has a name, and that's +enough for the versatile Parisian perfumer, and if the mixture he makes +"takes" with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a +fine perfume for a certainty! + +ESSENCE OF VOLKAMERIA. + +Esprit de violette, 1 pint. + " tubereuse, 1 " + " jasmine, 1/4 " + " rose, 1/2 " +Essence de muse, 2 oz. + +WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this +flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and +very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To +this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted +for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our +climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor +has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it +answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the +large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English +wallflower will meet with a demand. + +An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:-- + +Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint. + " vanilla, 1/2 " +Esprit de rose, 1 " +Extract of orris, 1/2 " + " cassie, 1/2 " +Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops. + +Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting +it up for sale. + +WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can +be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally +consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of +this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made. + +ICELAND WINTER GREEN. + +Esprit de rose, 1 pint. +Essence of lavender, 1/4 " +Extract of neroli, 1/2 " + " vanilla, 1/4 " + " vitivert, 1/4 " + " cassie, 1/2 " + " ambergris, 1/4 " + +We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are +used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; +it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, +it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the +methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are +analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the +processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by +_tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified +under certain circumstances. + +There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris, +civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated +separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the +whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. +Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we +have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being +considered as primitive odors. + +On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the +odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or +of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may +probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the +consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named. + +QUANTITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY, +ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852. + + lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 28,574 + " caraway, 3,602 + " cassia, 6,163 + " cloves, 595 +Otto of lavender, 12,776 + " lemon, 67,348 + " peppermint, 16,059 + " roses, 1,268 + " spearmint, 163 + " thyme, 11,418 + " lemon grass, } + " citronella, } 47,380 +And other ottos not otherwise described, } + ------- +Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346 + +at the duty of 1_s._ per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766_l._ +16_s._ + +It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of +cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that +amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very +large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale +and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of +caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the +foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably +to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually. + +There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in +1852-- + +Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, + &c., commonly called "French Pomatums," + average value of 6_s._ per pound, and paying + a duty of 1_s._ per pound, valued by the importers + at L1,306 +Perfumery not otherwise described; value L1,920 + +Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying +a duty of 1_s._ each,[D] 19,777 + +Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 +flacons at 8_d._ = 8,000_l._ annually. + +The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale +of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket +handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000_l._ per annum. +This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home +manufacture of perfumery. + + + + +SECTION IV. + +PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN. + + +In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we +now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin. +The first under our notice is-- + +AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near +the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of +America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of +Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The +shores of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, +are the principal places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical +Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the +first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was +bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London +for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite +within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of +ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at +issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these +animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet +with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti +whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the +cause or effect of the disease. + +Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of +vegetable production, and analogous to amber; hence its name +amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province +of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, +which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern +appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to +any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely +quoting the facts known more than a century ago. + +A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried +cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say +whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its +perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that +HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long +digestion of the human faeces had acquired a very strong and perfect +smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a +great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume +(_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of +the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.) + +Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in +deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many +an agreeable smell. + +Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing +little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives +permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the +perfumer esteems it much. + +ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS + +Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the +public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name + +EXTRAIT D'AMBRE. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. +Extract of ambergris, 1 " +Essence of musk, 1/4 " +Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces. + +This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well +perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been +washed. + +The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which +clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak +alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through +the lavatory ordeal. + +Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little +ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of +strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in +the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming +writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter. + +[Illustration: Civet Cat.] + +CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or +civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between +the anus and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of +Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch. + +When the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement, which at one +time was common in Amsterdam, they are placed in strong cages, so +constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the +person employed in collecting the secreted substance. This operation is +said to be performed twice a week, and is done by scraping out the civet +with a small spoon: about a drachm at a time is thus obtained. A good +deal of the civet now brought to European markets is from Calicut, +capital of the province of Malabar, and from Bassora on the Euphrates. + +In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most disgusting +odor; but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is +agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same +substance, modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the +nose, should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve; but such +is the case with nearly all odorous bodies, especially with ottos, +which, if smelled at, are far from nice, and in some cases, positively +nasty--such as otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly; but if +diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their +fragrance is delightful. + +Otto of rose to many has a sickly odor, but when eliminated in the +homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom, who is it +that will not admit that "the rose is sweet?" The odor of civet is best +imparted, not by actual contact, but by being placed in the neighborhood +of absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, which, being +covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk, perfumes the paper and +envelopes delightfully, and so much so, that they retain the odor after +passing through the post. + +EXTRACT OF CIVET is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce +of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar +material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then +placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating +for a month, it is fit to strain off. It is principally used as a +"fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor. The French +perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who +seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint +is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume. + +CASTOR is a secretion of the _Castor fiber_, or beaver, very +similar to civet. Though we have often heard of its being used in +perfumery, we do not personally know that such is the case. + +MUSK.--This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal +secretion; it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the +male animal. In the perfumery trade these little bags are called "pods," +and as imported it is called "pod musk." When the musk is separated from +the skin or sack in which it is contained, it is then called "grain +musk." + +The musk deer (_Moschus moschatus_) is an inhabitant of the great +mountain range which belts the north of India, and branches out into +Siberia, Thibet, and China. And it is also found in the Altaic range, +near Lake Baikal, and in some other mountain ranges, but always on the +borders of the line of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only +that the musk is produced. + +[Illustration: Musk Pod, actual size.] + +It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is still so among +Eastern nations. The musk from Boutan, Tonquin, and Thibet, is most +esteemed, that from Bengal is inferior, and from Russia is of still +lower quality. The strength and the quantity produced by a single animal +varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A single +musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk. Musk +is imported into England from China, in caddies of from 50 to 100 ounces +each. When adulterated with the animal's blood, which is often the case, +it forms into lumps or clots; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark, +friable earth. Those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered, +as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk; upon this rule, we +presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration. Musk is +remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent; everything +in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and long retains its odor, +although not in actual contact with it. + +It is a fashion of the present day for people to say "that they do not +like musk;" but, nevertheless, from great experience in one of the +largest manufacturing perfumatories in Europe, we are of opinion that +the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires. Those +substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so +long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer "that there is no +musk in it." + +[Illustration: The Musk Deer.] + +The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap, sachet +powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery. The just reputation of +Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in the main, to its delightful +odor. The soap is, doubtless, of the finest quality, but its perfume +stamps it among the _elite_--its fragrance it owes to musk. + +The alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the +odoriferous principle of musk. If, however, a strong solution of potass +be poured on to grain musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true +musk smell. + +EXTRACT OF MUSK. + +Grain musk, 2 oz. +Rectified spirit, 1 gallon. + +After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is fit to draw +off. Such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes. +That extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale, is prepared +thus:-- + +EXTRAIT DE MUSC. + +Extract of musk (as above), 1 pint. + " ambergris, 1/2 " + " rose triple, 1/4 " + +Mix and filter it; it is then fit for bottling. + +This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to +our first formula, and is also more profitable to the vendor. It will be +seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for +a fixing ingredient in other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile +odor; customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incompatible, +namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, _i.e._ very volatile, +and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period, +_ergo_, not volatile! Small portions of extract of musk, mixed with +esprit de rose, violet, tuberose, and others, do, in a measure, attain +this object; that is, after the violet, &c., has evaporated, the +handkerchief still retains an odor, which, although not that of the +original smell, yet gives satisfaction, because it is pleasant to the +nasal organ. + + + + +SECTION V. + + +AMMONIA.--Under the various titles of "Smelling Salts," +"Preston Salts," "Inexhaustible Salts," "Eau de Luce," "Sal Volatile," +ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies, has been very extensively +consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve. + +The perfumer uses liq. amm. fortis, that is, strong liquid ammonia, and +the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing the various "salts" that +he sells. These materials he does not attempt to make; in fact, it is +quite out of his province so to do, but he procures them ready for his +hand through some manufacturing chemist. The best preparation for +smelling-bottles is what is termed INEXHAUSTIBLE SALTS, which +is prepared thus:-- + +Liquid ammonia, 1 pint. +Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm. + " English lavender, 1 " + " bergamot, 1/2 " + " cloves, 1/2 " + +Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and +well-stoppered bottle. + +This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous +absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge +cuttings, that have been well beaten, washed, and dried. These cuttings +can be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers, +being the trimming or roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut off +before the merchants send it into the retail market. After the bottles +are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the scented +ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain, when the +bottles are inverted; as, if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is +spilt over certain colored fabrics, it causes a stain. When such an +accident happens, the person who sold it is invariably blamed. + +When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the ammoniacal +odor longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled +in this way are called "inexhaustible," which name, however, they do not +sustain more than two or three months with any credit; the warm hand +soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to +be refilled. + +For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use +what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass). The bottles +being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, +scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. The necks of the bottles +are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from +the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and +causes complaints to be made. The crystals are prettier in colored +bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite +as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia better than +any other material. Perfumers sell also what is called WHITE +SMELLING SALTS, and PRESTON SALTS. The White Smelling Salt +is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any +perfuming otto that is thought fit,--lavender otto giving, as a general +rule, the most satisfaction. + +PRESTON SALTS, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal +compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and +lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate +of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with +this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is +poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of French +lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely +mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed +over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to +which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of +ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though +properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made--which is very +rarely the case--it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which +renders it characteristic. + +EAU DE LUCE. + +Tincture of benzoin: or, } + " balsam of Peru, } 1 oz. +Otto of lavender, 10 drops. +Oil of amber, 5 " +Liquor ammonia, 2 oz. + +If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered, +as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion. + +ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--The pungency of the odor +of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of +perfumery. + +The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is +the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists. + +The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized +with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus-- + +AROMATIC VINEGAR. + +Concentrated acetic acid, 8 oz. +Otto of English lavender, 2 drachms. + " " rosemary, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1 " + " camphor, 1 oz. + +First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the +perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional +agitation, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use. + +Several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published, +almost all of which, however, appear to complicate and mystify a process +that is all simplicity. + +The most popular article of this kind is-- + +HENRY'S VINEGAR. + +Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, + mint, and lavender flowers, each, 1/2 oz. +Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and + camphor, each, 1/4 oz. +Alcohol (rectified), 4 oz. +Concentrated acetic acid, 16 oz. + +Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid, and +digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 14 deg. C. or 15 deg. C. +Finally, press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it. + +As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press, +for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue, it is +best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can, by means of a common +funnel, and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs, +by tying them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure by +means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer, or similar device. + +VINAIGRE A LA ROSE. + +Concentrated acetic acid, 1 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm. + +Well shaken together. + +It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a +similar manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto +of roses. All these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as +perfumed ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an +ornamental "smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of +sulphate of potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or +upon sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their +French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in the +presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of +infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the story of the "four +thieves' vinegar," which is thus rendered in Lewis's Dispensatory: + +"It is said that during the plague at Marseilles, four persons, by the +use of this preservative, attended, unhurt, multitudes of those that +were affected; that under the color of these services, they robbed both +the sick and the dead; and that being afterwards apprehended, one of +them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the +prophylactic (a very likely story!!), which was as follows:-- + +VINAIGRE DES QUATRE VOLEURS, OR FOUR THIEVES' VINEGAR. + +Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman + wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of + each, 3/4 oz. +Lavender flowers, 1 oz. +Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, + and nutmeg, each, 1 drachm. +Camphor, 1/2 oz. +Alcohol or brandy, 1 oz. +Strong vinegar, 4 pints. + +Digest all the materials, except the camphor and spirit, in a closely +covered vessel for a fortnight, at a summer heat; then express and +filter the vinaigre produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved +in the brandy or spirit." + +A very similar and quite as effective a preparation may be made by +dissolving the odorous principle of the plants indicated in a mixture of +alcohol and acetic acid. Such preparations, however, are more within the +province of the druggist than perfumer. There are, however, several +preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for mixing with +the water for lavatory purposes and the bath, their vendors endeavoring +to place them in competition with Eau de Cologne, but with little +avail. Among them may be enumerated-- + +HYGIENIC OR PREVENTIVE VINEGAR. + +Brandy, 1 pint. +Otto of cloves, 1 drachm. + " lavender, 1 " + " marjoram, 1/2 drachm. +Gum benzoin, 1 oz. + +Macerate these together for a few hours, then add-- + +Brown vinegar, 2 pints. + +and strain or filter, if requisite, to be bright. + +TOILET VINEGAR (_a la Violette_). + +Extract of cassie, 1/2 pint. + " orris, 1/4 " +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/4 " +White wine vinegar, 2 pints. + +TOILET VINEGAR (_a la Rose_). + +Dried rose-leaves, 4 oz. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 pint. +White wine vinegar, 2 pints. + +Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle for +sale. + +VINAIGRE DE COLOGNE. + +To eau de Cologne, 1 pint, +Add, strong acetic acid, 1/2 oz. + +Filter if necessary. + +Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulae, it will be obvious to +the reader that vinegar of any flower may be prepared in a similar way +to those above noticed; thus, for vinaigre a la jasmine, or for vinaigre +a la fleur d'orange, we have only to substitute the esprit de jasmine, +or the esprit de fleur d'orange, in place of the Eau de Cologne, to +produce orange-flower or jasmine vinegars; however, these latter +articles are not in demand, and our only reason for explaining how such +preparations may be made, is in order to suggest the methods of +procedure to any one desirous of making them leading articles in their +trade. + +We perhaps may observe, _en passant_, that where economy in the +production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of consideration, +they have only to be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable +strength required. + +Any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce opalescence, +when mixed with water, must contain some gum-resin, like the hygienic +vinegar, as above. Either myrrh, benzoin, storax, or tolu, answer +equally well. + + + + +SECTION VI. + +BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. + + +In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of +preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants. It will +have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the +form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not +been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty +body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the +exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems. +Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, +Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of +these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in +which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards +infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the +most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils +(_i.e._ otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The +simple odors, when isolated, are called ESSENTIAL OILS or +OTTOS; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by +the English they are termed ESSENCES, and by the French +EXTRAITS or ESPRITS; a few exceptions prove this rule. +Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed +in the trade "Essence" of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of +essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature +is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the +fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the +writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it +would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant, +brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that +such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We +should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender, +&c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used +the word OTTO in place of "essential oil," in accordance with +his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat +oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered +obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"--oil of +jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will +use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these +differences of composition. + +There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants +should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad +principle to give any class of substances the same signification as +those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing +qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical +reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large +class of substances known as the aroma of plants! + +When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies +were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the +old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a +little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use. +We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential +oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term +sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the +odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy +bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with +salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils, +_i.e._ what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the +contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances. + +The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its +literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy +substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials +which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled +with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no +longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have +almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like. + +It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates +to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulae for preparing the +most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are +but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, +produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the +smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious +sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure. + +THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME. + +Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint. + " geranium, 1/2 " + " acacia, 1/4 " + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " + " civet, 1/4 " + +THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET. + +Extract of acacia, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange, } + " tubereuse, } + " civet, 1/4 " +Otto of almonds, 10 drops. + +BOUQUET D'AMOUR. + +Esprit de rose, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " violette, } + " cassie, } +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } + +Mix and filter. + +BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE. + +Extrait de jasmine, } + " rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " violette, } + " tuberose, } +Extract of orris, 1 " +Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz. + +BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET. + +Extrait de fleur d'orange,} + " cassie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " rose, } +Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. + " lavender, 1/2 " + " rose, 1 " + +BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES. + +Extrait de rose, } + " violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " tuberose, } +Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, } + " Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz. + " cedret, } + +THE COURT NOSEGAY. + +Extrait de rose, } + " violette, } of each, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } +Esprit de rose triple, 1 " +Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, } + " neroli, 1 drachm. + +EAU DE CHYPRE. + +This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the +_Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the +Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus-- + +Extract of musk, 1 pint. + " ambergris, } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/2 " + " tonquin bean, } + " orris, } +Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints. + +The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be +made. + +EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY. + +Extract of musk, } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " tonquin, } + " neroli, } + " geranium, } + " rose triple, } of each, 1/2 " + " santal, } + +ESTERHAZY BOUQUET. + +Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint. +Esprit de rose triple, 1 " +Extract of vitivert, } + " vanilla, } of each, 2 " + " orris, } + " tonquin, } +Esprit de neroli, 1 " +Extract of ambergris, 1/2 " +Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm. + " cloves, 1/2 " + +Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that +gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited +greater _furor_ while in fashion. + +ESS BOUQUET. + +The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of +the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the +shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close +imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, +who are, in truth, the original makers. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. + " orris, 8 " +Otto of lemons, 1/4 " + " bergamot, 1 " + +The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere +contraction of "essence" of bouquet. + +EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La premiere qualite._) + +Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons. +Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz. + " " _Bigarade_, 1 " + " rosemary, 2 " + " orange-peel, 5 " + " citron-peel, 5 " + " bergamot-peel, 2 " + +Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly +quiet, before bottling. + +EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxieme qualite._) + +Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons. +Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz. + " " _Petale_, 1/2 " + " rosemary, 2 " + " orange-peel, } + " lemon, } of each, 4 " + " bergamot, } + +Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a +sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place, +not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial +qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the +purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public +taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and +evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called +"refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we +cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important +thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and +that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter +impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to +resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to +make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original +article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity" +of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived +from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and +characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other. +The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which +it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to +fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit, +that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous +substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives +a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence +the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of +this substance. + +Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the +ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better, +first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the +mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies, +such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne. + +A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been +published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no +knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on +paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the +aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, +hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, +cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, +peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c. + +All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit, +and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the +article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak +spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form; +because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is +retained. + +The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show +that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit. + +FLOWERS OF ERIN. + +Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint. + " vanilla, 1 oz. + +ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. +" neroli, } +" acacia, } +" fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 " +" musk, } +" orris, } +" tonquin, 1/2 " +Otto of citron 2 drachms. + +BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS. + +Esprit de rose,} +" tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. +" violette, } +Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 2 " +" lemon, } +" orange, } of each, 1/2 " + +THE GUARDS' BOUQUET. + +Esprit de rose, 2 pints. + " neroli, 1/2 pint. +Extract of vanilla, 2 oz. + " orris, 2 " + " musk, 1/4 pint. +Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. + +FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY. + +Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. + " rose triple, 1 pint. + " jasmine, } + " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " +Extract of cassie, 1/2 " + " musk, } + " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. + +JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._) + +Extract of orris root, 2 pints. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade, 1 " +Extrait de cassie, } + " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " + " ambergris, } 1/2 " +Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz. + +JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._) + +Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. + " tubereuse, 1 " + " cassie, 1/2 " + " jasmine, 1/4 " +Extract of civet, 3 oz. + +Independently of the materials employed being different to the original +English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are +made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are +made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for +some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on +account of the predominance of its own aroma. + +We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and +French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes +made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different +spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of +their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a +superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly +admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than +with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly +the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, +ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to +retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with +the British spirit. + +All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau +de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to +perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract +of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy +spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the +olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape +spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it. +This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its +compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the +Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown +there. + +On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de +Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by +Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a +failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit, +but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover +instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between +"Patent British" and foreign brandy. + +Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in +this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is, +foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme, +a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the +difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of +the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated +Cognac. + +Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have +thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to +impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the +market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very +badly made butyric ether. + +On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation +of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the +market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England +we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These +adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the +primitive alcohols. + +A JAPANESE PERFUME. + +Extract of rose triple, } + " vitivert, } + " patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " cedar, } + " santal, } + " vervaine, 1/4 " + +KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY. + +Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint. + " cassie, } + " tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " jasmine, } + " geranium, 1/2 " + " musk, } of each, 3 oz. + " ambergris, } + +EAU DES MILLEFLEURS. + +Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade,} + " tubereuse, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange,} + " cassie, } + " violette, } +Extract of cedar, 1/4 " +Extract of vanilla, } + " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. + " musk, } +Otto of almonds, } + " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. + " cloves, } + " bergamot, 1 oz. + +These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then +filtered prior to sale. + +MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER. + +Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint. +Eau des millefleurs, 1 " + +DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER. + +Spirits from grape, 1 pint. +French otto of lavender, 1 oz. +Extract of ambergris, 2 oz. + +The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its +peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although +some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; +hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, +and has almost superseded the original preparations. + +There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the +leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as +lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and marechale, &c., +all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with +about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients. + +BOUQUET DU MARECHALE. + +Esprit de rose triple, } + } of each, 1 pint. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, } + + " vitivert, } + " vanilla, } + " orris, } of each, 1/2 " + " tonquin, } +Esprit de neroli, } +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " ambergris, } +Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. + " santal, } + +EAU DE MOUSSELAINE. + +Bouquet marechale, 1 pint. +Extrait de cassie, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " + " tubereuse,} + " rose, } +Otto of santal, 2 drachms. + +BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER. + +Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. + " rose de pomade, 1 " + " rose triple, 1 " +Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " + " ambergris, } +Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. + " bergarmot, 1/2 oz. + +CAPRICE DE LA MODE. + +Extrait de jasmine, } + " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " cassie, } + " fleur d'orange, } +Otto of almonds, 10 drops. + " nutmegs, 10 " +Extract of civet, 1/4 pint. + +MAY FLOWERS. + +Extract of rose (de pomade), } + " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " fleur d'orange, } + " cassie, } + " vanilla, 1 " +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY. + +Extrait de rose, triple, } + " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. + " vitivert, } + " patchouly, } + " verbena, 1/8 " + +BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS. + +Countries wherein the Odors + are produced. +TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. +AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " +ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 " +FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 " +SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 " +TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 " +ITALY, " violet, 1 " +HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 " +CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. +SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz. +TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint. + +ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET. + +Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. + " vitivert, 1/4 " + " santal, 1 " + " rose, 1/2 " + +BOUQUET DU ROI. + +Extract of jasmine, } + " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. + " rose } + " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. + " vitivert, } + " musk, } of each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + " cloves, 1 drachm. + +BOUQUET DE LA REINE. + +Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. +Extrait de violette, } + " tubereuse, 1/2 " + " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + +RONDELETIA. + +The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most +gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, +Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this +odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the +R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before +observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve +produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different +sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract +of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet +the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are +certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new +aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is +exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when +mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and +blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are +united, the compound color is known as puce or violet. + +Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce +a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that +constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, +is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, +and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when +so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used +accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a +like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal +proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or +hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that +patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the +vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most +delicate. + +Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we +express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, +as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. +By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in +the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is +pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a +warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to +cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the +general benefit of health. + +To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed +formulae, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its +peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk, +vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other +bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the +handkerchief. + +ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA. + +Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. +Otto of lavender, 2 oz. + " cloves, 1 oz. + " roses, 3 drachms. + " bergamot, 1 oz. +Extract of musk, } + " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. + " ambergris, } + +The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. +Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit. + +BOUQUET ROYAL. + +Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. +Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " +Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " + " violet, } + " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. + " cassie, } +Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. + " bergamot, } +Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. + " ambergris, } + +SUAVE. + +Extract of tubereuse, } + " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. + " cassie, } + " rose, } + " vanilla, 5 oz. + " musk, } each, 2 oz. + " ambergris, } +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + " cloves, 1 drachm. + +SPRING FLOWERS. + +Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. + " violet, } + " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. + " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. +Extract of ambergris, 1 oz. + +The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the +very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing +perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being +unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there +is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of +the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to +which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that +neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is +due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor +upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients +it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an +Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that +does not attempt an imitation. + + +TULIP NOSEGAY. + +Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are +inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an +exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the +purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, +and makes an excellent imitation thus:-- + +Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint. + " violet, } + " rose, 1/2 " + " orris, 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + + +VIOLETTE DES BOIS. + +Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing +the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers +sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of +the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:-- + +Extract of violet, 1 pint. +" orris, 3 oz. +" cassie, 3 oz. +" rose (from pomade) 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 3 drops. + +This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer +than the pure violet. + +WINDSOR CASTLE BOUQUET. + +Alcohol, 1 pint. +Otto of neroli, } +" rose, } each, 1/4 oz. +" lavender, } +" bergamot, } +" cloves, 8 drops. +Extract of orris, 1 pint. +" jasmine, } each, 1/4 " +" cassie, } +" musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz. +" ambergris, } + +YACHT CLUB BOUQUET. + +Extract of santal, 1 pint. + " neroli, 1 " + " jasmine, } each, 1/2 " + " rose triple, } + " vanilla, 1/4 " +Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz. + +We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates +to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too +much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of +so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. +Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar +character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand +recipes that have been practically tried. + +Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of +flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles. + + + + +SECTION VII. + + +The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the +present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,--sachet powders, tablets, +pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. +&c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more +than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and +shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very +extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures +for proofs:--"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and +frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, +3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is +considered as a sign of humiliation:--"The Lord will take away the +tablets, and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there +shall be a stink." (Exod. 35:22; Isaiah 3:20, 24.) The word tablets in +this passage means perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal, wood, +and ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of +buildings, which would explain the word _palaces_, in Psalm 14:8:--"All +thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of the ivory +palaces, whereby they have made thee glad." From what is said in Matt. +2:11, it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most +valuable gifts which man could bestow;--"And when they (the wise men) +had opened their treasures, they presented unto him (Christ) gifts; +gold, and frankincense, and myrrh." As far as we are able to learn, all +the perfumes used by the Egyptians and Persians during the early period +of the world were _dry_ perfumes, consisting of spikenard (_Nardostachys +jatamansi_), myrrh, olibanum, and other gum-resins, nearly all of which +are still in use by the manufacturers of odors. Among the curiosities +shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken from an Egyptian +catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum-resin, &c., which evolve a +pleasant odor to the present day, although probably 3000 years old. We +have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were +for perfuming apartments, in the same way that pot pourri is now used. + + +SACHET POWDERS. + +The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these +substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes, +find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of +imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. +The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either +to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted. + +SACHET AU CYPRE. + +Ground rose-wood, 1 lb. + " cedar-wood, 1 lb. + " santal-wood, 1 lb. +Otto of rhodium, or otto of rose, 3 drachms. + +Mix and sift; it is then fit for sale. + +SACHET A LA FRANGIPANNE. + +Orris-root powder, 3 lbs. +Vitivert powder, 1/4 lb. +Santal-wood powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of neroli, } + " rose, } of each, 1 drachm. + " santal, } +Musk-pods, ground, 1 oz. + +The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from +a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an +alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called +rosolis, or ros-solis, _sun-dew_, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as +a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, +in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk. + +HELIOTROPE SACHET. + +Powdered orris, 2 lbs. +Rose leaves, ground, 1 lb. +Tonquin beans, ground, 1/2 lb. +Vanilla beans, 1/4 lb. +Grain musk, 1/4 oz. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale. + +It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly _au naturel_ in +its odor to the flower from which it derives its name, that no person +unacquainted with its composition would, for an instant, believe it to +be any other than the "real thing." + +LAVENDER SACHET. + +Lavender flowers, ground, 1 lb. +Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lavender, 1/4 oz. + + +SACHET A LA MARECHALE. + +Powder of santal-wood, 1/2 lb. + " orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Rose-leaves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cassia-bark, 1/4 lb. +Grain musk, 1/2 drachm. + +SACHET A LA MOUSSELAINE. + +Vitivert, in powder, 1 lb. +Santal-wood, } +Orris, } each, 1/2 lb. +Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1/2 lb. +Benzoin, in powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of thyme, 5 drops. + " roses, 1/2 drachm. + +MILLEFLEUR SACHET. + +Lavender-flowers, ground, } +Orris, } each, 1 lb. +Rose-leaves, } +Benzoin, } +Tonquin, } +Vanilla, } each, 1/4 lb. +Santal, } +Musk and civet, 2 drachms. +Cloves, ground, 1/4 lb. +Cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. +Allspice, } + +PORTUGAL SACHET. + +Dried orange-peel, 1 lb. + " lemon-peel, 1/2 lb. + " orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Otto of orange-peel, 1 oz. + " neroli, 1/4 drachm. + " lemon-grass, 1/4 " + +PATCHOULY SACHET. + +Patchouly herb, ground, 1 lb. +Otto of patchouly, 1/4 drachm. + +Patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state, as imported, tied up +in bundles of half a pound each. + +POT POURRI. + +This is a mixture of dried flowers and spices _not_ ground. + +Dried lavender, 1 lb. +Whole rose-leaves, 1 lb. +Crushed orris (coarse), 1/2 lb. +Broken cloves, } + " cinnamon, } each, 2 oz. + " allspice, } +Table salt, 1 lb. + +We need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to increase the bulk +and weight of the product, in order to sell it cheap. + +OLLA PODRIDA. + +This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be +given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse +and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of +perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture +or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, +orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., +mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs. + +ROSE SACHET. + +Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. +Santal-wood, ground, 1/2 lb. +Otto of roses, 1/4 oz. + +SANTAL-WOOD SACHET. + +This is a good and economical sachet, and simply consists of the ground +wood. Santal-wood is to be purchased from some of the wholesale +drysalters; the drug-grinders are the people to reduce it to powder for +you--any attempt to do so at home will be found unavailable, on account +of its toughness. + +SACHET (_without a name_). + +Dried thyme, } + " lemon thyme, } of each, 1/4 lb. + " mint, } + " marjoram, } + " lavender, 1/2 lb. + " rose heels, 1 lb. +Ground cloves, 2 oz. +Allspice, 2 oz. +Musk in grain, 1 drachm. + +VERVAIN SACHET. + +Lemon-peel, dried and ground, 1 lb. + " thyme, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lemon-grass, 1 drachm. + " " peel, 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + +VITIVERT SACHET. + +The fibrous roots of the _Anthoxanthum muricatum_ being ground, +constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from the +Tamool name, _vittie vayer_, and by the Parisian _vetiver_. Its odor +resembles myrrh. Vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches, as +imported from India, than ground, and is used for the prevention of +moth, rather than as a perfume. + +VIOLET SACHET. + +Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1 lb. +Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb. +Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. +Grain musk, 1 " +Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/2 lb. + +Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in a +glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale. + +There are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given, +but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater +variety than those named. There are, however, many other substances used +in a similar way; the most popular is the + +PEAU D'ESPAGNE. + +Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly perfumed +leather. Good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a +mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins, +thus:--Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of each half an ounce; otto +of lavender, verbena, bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce; otto of +cloves and cinnamon, of each two drachms; with any others thought fit. +In this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin; now place the +skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it over a line to dry. A +paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with +one drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum +tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence; a little of any of the +ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &c., +greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body; the skin being cut +up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over, +plaster fashion, with the last-named compost; two pieces being put +together, having the civet plaster inside them, are then to be placed +between sheets of paper, weighed or pressed, and left to dry thus for a +week; finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be +enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the taste of +the vender. + +Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and +hence they are frequently called "the inexhaustible sachet." Being +flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-paper. + +The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to +many; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is +tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree, with +which it is curried. The odor of Russia leather is, however, not +_recherche_ enough to be considered as a perfume; but, nevertheless, +leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any +sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree, especially +with otto of santal or lemon-grass (_Verbena_). In this manner the odor +of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly varied, and gives great +satisfaction, on account of the permanence of its perfume. + + +PERFUMED LETTER-PAPER. + +If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with paper, the latter +absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as "perfumed;" it is obvious +that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous +tinctures or ottos, on account of such matters interfering with the +fluidity of the ink and action of the pen; therefore, by the process of +infection, as it were, alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage. + +Besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as +dry perfumes, such as scented wadding, used for quilting into all sorts +of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir. Pincushions, jewel +cases, and the like are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply +steeped in some strong essence of musk, &c. + +PERFUMED BOOK-MARKERS. + +We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous +substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board +treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for +sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, +others with embroidery. + +CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS. + +Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, +perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. +The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made +glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the +vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or +gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things +are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in +the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used. + +PASTILS. + +There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils, or +pastilles, as they are more often called, from the French, has been +derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the +religious services:--"According to the custom of the priest's office, +his lot (Zacharias') was to burn incense when he went into the temple +of the Lord." (Luke 1:9.) "And thou shalt make an altar to burn +incense.... And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning +when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when he lighteth the lamps he +shall burn incense upon it." (Exodus 30.) + +An analogous practice is in use to the present day in the Roman Catholic +churches, but, instead of being consumed upon an altar, the incense is +burned in a censer, as doubtless many of our readers have seen. "As soon +as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled, the +holy place was filled with perfume, and the congregation without joined +in prayers." (_Carpenters Temple service of the Hebrews._) + +THE CENSER. + +"On the walls of every temple in Egypt, from Meroee to Memphis, the +censer is depicted smoking before the presiding deity of the place; on +the walls of the tombs glow in bright colors the preparation of spices +and perfumes." In the British Museum there is a vase (No. 2595) the body +of which is intended to contain a lamp, the sides being perforated to +admit the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes; which +are intended to contain ottos of flowers placed in the small vases at +the end of the tubes; the heat volatilizes the ottos, and quickly +perfumes an apartment. This vase or censer is from an Egyptian catacomb. + +[Illustration: The Censer.] + +The Censer, as used in the "holy places," is made either of brass, +German silver, or the precious metals; its form somewhat resembles a +saucer and an inverted cup, which latter is perforated, to allow the +escape of the perfume. In the outer saucer is placed an inner one of +copper, which can be taken out and filled with ignited charcoal. When in +use, the ignited carbon is placed in the censer, and is then covered +with the incense; the heat rapidly volatilizes it in visible fumes. The +effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer, attached +to three long chains, in the air. The manner of swinging the censer +varies slightly in the churches in Rome, in France, and in England, some +holding it above the head. At LA MADELEINE the method is always +to give the censer a full swing at the greatest length of the chains +with the right hand, and to catch it up short with the left hand. + +Several samples of "incense prepared for altar service," as sent out by +Mr. Martin, of Liverpool, appear to be nothing more than gum olibanum, +of indifferent quality, and not at all like the composition as +especially commanded by God, the form for which is given in full in +Exodus. + +The pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight modification of +the incense of the ancients. For many years they were called Osselets of +Cyprus. In the old books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known +gum-resins was called Suffitus, which being thrown upon hot ashes +produced a vapor which was considered to be salutary in many diseases. + +It is under the same impression that pastils are now used, or at least +to cover the _mal odeur_ of the sick-chamber. + +There is not much variety in the formula of the pastils that are now in +use; we have first the + +INDIAN, OR YELLOW PASTILS. + +Santal-wood, in powder, 1 lb. +Gum benzoin, 1-1/2 lb. + " Tolu, 1/4 lb. +Otto of santal, } + " cassia, } each, 3 drachms. + " cloves, } +Nitrate of potass, 1-1/2 oz. +Mucilage of tragacantha, q.s. to make the whole into a stiff paste. + +The benzoin, santal-wood, and Tolu, are to be powdered and mixed by +sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre being dissolved in the +mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar, the pastils are +formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried. + +The Chinese josticks are of a similar composition, but contain no Tolu. +Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the +Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value +of santal-wood. + +DR. PARIS'S PASTILS. + +Benzoin, } +Cascarilla, } of each, 1/4 lb. +Myrrh, 1-1/4 oz. +Charcoal, 1-1/2 lb. +Otto of nutmegs, } of each, + " cloves, } 3/4 oz. +Nitre, 2 oz. + +Mix as in the preceding. + +PERFUMER'S PASTILS. + +Well-burned charcoal, 1 lb. +Benzoin, 3/4 lb. +Tolu, } +Vanilla pods, } of each, 1/4 lb. +Cloves, } +Otto of santal, } + " neroli, } of each, 2 dr. +Nitre, 1-1/2 oz. +Mucilage tragacantha, _q.s._ + +PIESSE'S PASTILS. + +Willow charcoal, 1/2 lb. +Benzoic acid, 6 oz. +Otto of thyme, } + " caraway, } + " rose, } of each, 1/2 dr. + " lavender,} + " cloves, } + " santal, } + +Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or +ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and +then allow it to dry in a warm place. + +When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed +ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting +(the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and +mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to +bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better. + +A great variety of formulae have been published for the manufacture of +pastils; nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark, or aromatic +seeds. Now, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if +the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion--the slow +combustion--materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor; +in fact, the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized +aromatic ingredients; it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used +in lieu of other substances. The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely +for burning, producing, during its combustion, the heat required to +quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded. +The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and therefore +does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil. Such is, +however, not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not +in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of +heat. If combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the +aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides the +volatilized otto which the wood contains, all the compounds naturally +produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter, spoiling the true odor +of the other ingredients volatilized. + +There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally +where these products are the materials sought. By such fumigation, as +when brown paper is allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combustion) in a +room for the purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of +tobacco, that is, combustion with flame, there is no odor developed, but +by its slow combustion, according to the method adopted by those who +indulge in "the weed," the familiar aroma, "the cloud," is generated, +and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil +should not develope any odor of its own, but simply volatilize that +fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We think that +the fourth formula given above carries out that object. + +It does not follow that the formulae that are here given produce at all +times the odor that is most approved; it is evident that in pastils, as +with other perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste. Many persons very +much object to the aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes +of cascarilla. + +THE PERFUME LAMP. + +Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum +remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of +Cambridge, made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of +perfuming apartments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Eau de +Cologne, and "trimmed" with a wick in the usual manner. Over the centre +of the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch above it, a small +ball of spongy platinum is placed, maintained in its position by being +fixed to a thin glass rod, which is inserted into the wick. + +[Illustration: Perfume Lamp.] + +Thus arranged, the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to burn until the +platinum becomes red hot; the flame may then be blown out, nevertheless +the platinum remains incandescent for an indefinite period. The +proximity of a red-hot ball to a material of the physical quality of Eau +de Cologne, diffused over a surface of cotton wick, as a matter of +course causes its rapid evaporation, and as a consequence the diffusion +of odor. + +Instead of the lamp being charged with Eau de Cologne, we may use Eau de +Portugal, vervaine, or any other spirituous essence. Several perfumers +make a particular mixture for this purpose, which is called + +EAU A BRULER. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 pint. +Tincture of benzoin, 2 oz. + " vanilla, 1 oz. +Otto of thyme, } + " mint, } of each, 1/2 drachm. + " nutmeg, } + +Another form, called + +EAU POUR BRULER. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Benzoic acid, 1/2 oz. +Otto of thyme, } of each, 1 drachm. + " caraway, } + " bergamot, 2 oz. + +Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps will, however +frequently observe that, whatever difference there may be in the +composition of the fluid introduced into the lamp, there is a degree of +similarity in the odor of the result when the platinum is in action. +This arises from the fact, that so long as there is the vapor of +alcohol, mixed with oxygen-air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain +definite products always result, namely, acetic acid, aldehyde, and +acetal, which are formed more or less and impart a peculiar and rather +agreeable fragrance to the vapor, but which overpowers any other odor +that is present. + +FUMIGATING PAPER. + +There are two modes of preparing this article:-- + +1. Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip them into a solution of +alum--say, alum, one ounce; water, one pint. After they are thoroughly +moistened, let them be well dried; upon one side of this paper spread a +mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of Tolu +or Peruvian balsam, or the benzoin may be used alone. To spread the gum, +&c., it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel and +poured thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the surface with a hot +spatula. When required for use, slips of this paper are held over a +candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous matter, but not to +ignite it. The alum in the paper prevents it a to certain extent from +burning. + +2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of +saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one pint of +water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried. + +Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be +dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit, and with a brush spread +upon one side of the paper, which, being hung up, rapidly dries. + +Slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills, to be ignited, and +then to be blown out. + +The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion, +diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous +gums. If two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the +surface is dry, they will join and become as one. When cut into slips, +they form what are called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills. + + + + +SECTION VIII. + +PERFUMED SOAP. + + +The word soap, or sope, from the Greek _sapo_, first occurs in the works +of Pliny and Galen. Pliny informs us that soap was first discovered by +the Gauls, that it was composed of tallow and ashes, and that the German +soap was reckoned the best. According to Sismondi, the French historian, +a soapmaker was included in the retinue of Charlemagne. + +At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius A.D. 79), a +soap-boiler's shop with soap in it was discovered during some +excavations made there not many years ago. (_Starke's Letters from +Italy._) + +From these statements it is evident that the manufacture of soap is of +very ancient origin; indeed, Jeremiah figuratively mentions it--"For +though thou wash thee with natron, and take thee much soap, yet thine +iniquity is marked before me." (Jer. 2:22.) + +Mr. Wilson says that the earliest record of the soap trade in England is +to be found in a pamphlet in the British Museum, printed in 1641, +entitled "A short Account of the Soap Business." It speaks more +particularly about the duty, which was then levied for the first time, +and concerning certain patents which were granted to persons, chiefly +Popish recusants, for some pretended new invention of white soap, +"which in truth was not so." Sufficient is said here to prove that at +that time soap-making was no inconsiderable art. + +It would be out of place here to enter into the details of soap-making, +because perfumers do not manufacture that substance, but are merely +"remelters," to use a trade term. The dyer purchases his dye-stuffs from +the drysalters already fabricated, and these are merely modified under +his hands to the various purposes he requires; so with the perfumer, he +purchases the various soaps in their raw state from the soap-makers, +these he mixes by remelting, scents and colors according to the article +to be produced. + +The primary soaps are divided into hard and soft soaps: the hard soaps +contain soda as the base; those which are soft are prepared with potash. +These are again divisible into varieties, according to the fatty matter +employed in their manufacture, also according to the proportion of +alkali. The most important of these to the perfumer is what is termed +curd soap, as it forms the basis of all the highly-scented soaps. + +CURD SOAP is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine +tallow. + +OIL SOAP, as made in England, is an uncolored combination of +olive oil and soda, hard, close grain, and contains but little water in +combination. + +CASTILE SOAP, as imported from Spain, is a similar combination, +but is colored by protosulphate of iron. The solution of the salt being +added to the soap after it is manufactured, from the presence of +alkali, decomposition of the salt takes place, and protoxide of iron is +diffused through the soap of its well-known black color, giving the +familiar marbled appearance to it. When the soap is cut up into bars, +and exposed to the air, the protoxide passes by absorption of oxygen +into peroxide; hence, a section of a bar of Castile soap shows the outer +edge red-marbled, while the interior is black-marbled. Some Castile soap +is not artificially colored, but a similar appearance is produced by the +use of a barilla or soda containing sulphuret of the alkaline base, and +at other times from the presence of an iron salt. + +MARINE SOAP is a cocoanut-oil soap, of soda containing a great +excess of alkali, and much water combination. + +YELLOW SOAP is a soda soap, of tallow, resin, of lard, &c. &c. + +PALM SOAP is a soda soap of palm oil, retaining the peculiar +odor and color of the oil unchanged. The odoriferous principle of palm +oil resembling that from orris-root, can be dissolved out of it by +tincturation with alcohol; like ottos generally, it remains intact in +the presence of an alkali, hence, soap made of palm oil retains the odor +of the oil. + +The public require a soap that will not shrink and change shape after +they purchase it. It must make a profuse lather during the act of +washing. It must not leave the skin rough after using it. It must be +either quite inodorous or have a pleasant aroma. None of the above soaps +possess all these qualities in union, and, therefore, to produce such an +article is the object of the perfumer in his remelting process. + +Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap, in 1853, it was a +commercial impossibility for a perfumer to _manufacture_ soap, because +the law did not allow less than one ton of soap to be made at a time. +This law, which, with certain modifications had been in force since the +reign of Charles I, confined the actual manufacture of that article to +the hands of a few capitalists. Such law, however, was but of little +importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling plant and apparatus is not +very compatible with a laboratory of flowers; yet, in some exceptional +instances, these excise regulations interfered with him; such, for +instance, as that in making soft soap of lard and potash, known, when +perfumed, as _Creme d'Amande_; or unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream, +which has, in consequence of that law, been entirely thrown into the +hands of our continental neighbors. + +FIG SOFT SOAP is a combination of oils, principally olive oil +of the commonest kind, with potash. + +NAPLES SOFT SOAP is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil) and +potash, colored brown for the London shavers, retaining, when pure, its +unsophisticated "fishy" odor. + +The above soaps constitute the real body or base of all the fancy +scented soaps as made by the perfumers, which are mixed and remelted +according to the following formula:-- + +The remelting process is exceedingly simple. The bar soap is first cut +up into thin slabs, by pressing them against a wire fixed upon the +working bench. This cutting wire (piano wire is the kind) is made taut +upon the bench, by being attached to two screws. These screws regulate +the height of the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the +slabs from the bars. The soap is cut up into thin slabs, because it +would be next to impossible to melt a bar whole, on account of soap +being one of the worst conductors of heat. + +The melting pan is an iron vessel, of various sizes, capable of holding +from 28 lbs. to 3 cwt., heated by a steam jacket, or by a water-bath. +The soap is put into the pan by degrees, or what is in the vernacular +called "rounds," that is, the thin slabs are placed perpendicularly all +round the side of the pan; a few ounces of water are at the same time +introduced, the steam of which assists the melting. The pan being +covered up, in about half an hour the soap will have "run down." Another +round is then introduced, and so continued every half hour until the +whole "melting" is finished. The more water a soap contains, the easier +is it melted; hence a round of marine soap, or of new yellow soap, will +run down in half the time that it requires for old soap. + +When different soaps are being remelted to form one kind when finished, +the various sorts are to be inserted into the pan in alternate rounds, +but each round must consist only of one kind, to insure uniformity of +condition. As the soap melts, in order to mix it, and to break up lumps, +&c., it is from time to time "_crutched_." The "crutch" is an instrument +or tool for stirring up the soap; its name is indicative of its form, a +long handle with a short cross--an inverted 'T', curved to fit the curve +of the pan. When the soaps are all melted, it is then colored, if so +required, and then the perfume is added, the whole being thoroughly +incorporated with the crutch. + +[Illustration: Frame and Slab Gauge.] + +The soap is then turned into the "frame." The frame is a box made in +sections, in order that it can be taken to pieces, so that the soap can +be cut up when cold; the sections or "lifts" are frequently made of the +width of the intended bar of soap. + +[Illustration: Barring Gauge.] + +Two or three days after the soap has been in the frame, it is cool +enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or sections of the +frame; these slabs are set up edgeways to cool for a day or two more; it +is then barred by means of a wire. The lifts of the frame regulate the +widths of the bars; the gauge regulates their breadth. The density of +the soap being pretty well known, the gauges are made so that the +soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or eights; +that is, either into squares of four, six, or eight to the pound weight. +Latterly, various mechanical arrangements have been introduced for +soap-cutting, which in very large establishments, such as those at +Marseilles in France, are great economisers of labor; but in England the +"wire" is still used. + +[Illustration: Squaring Gauge.] + +[Illustration: Soap Scoop.] + +For making tablet shapes the soap is first cut into squares, and is +then put into a mould, and finally under a press--a modification of an +ordinary die or coin press. Balls are cut by hand, with the aid of a +little tool called a "scoop," made of brass or ivory, being, in fact, a +ring-shaped knife. Balls are also made in the press with a mould of +appropriate form. The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained +by the press and appropriate moulds. The fruit-shaped soaps, after +leaving the mould, are dipped into melted wax, and are then colored +according to artificial fruit-makers' rules. + +[Illustration: Soap Press.] + +[Illustration: Moulds.] + +The "variegated" colored soaps are produced by adding the various +colors, such as smalt and vermilion, previously mixed with water, to the +soap in a melted state; these colors are but slightly crutched in, hence +the streaky appearance or party color of the soap; this kind is also +termed "marbled" soap. + +ALMOND SOAP. + +This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil," +and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is +in reality constituted thus:-- + +Finest curd soap, 1 cwt. + " oil soap, 14 lbs. + " marine, 14 lbs. +Otto of almonds, 1-1/2 lb. + " cloves, 1/4 lb. + " caraway, 1/2 lb. + +By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be +added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish +with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before +turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume. + +Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial +essence of almonds (see ALMOND) for perfuming soap, it being +far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has +proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned by +Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it. + +CAMPHOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 28 lbs. +Otto of rosemary, 1-1/4 lb. +Camphor, 1-1/4 lb. + +Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition +of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted +and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch +for mixing. + +HONEY SOAP. + +Best yellow soap, 1 cwt. +Fig soft soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of citronella, 1-1/2 lb. + +WHITE WINDSOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 1 cwt. +Marine soap, 21 lbs. +Oil soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of caraway, 1-1/2 lbs. +" thyme, } +" rosemary, } of each 1/2 lb. +" cassia,} +" cloves,} of each 1/4 lb. + +BROWN WINDSOR SOAP. + +Curd soap, 3/4 cwt. +Marine soap, 1/4 " +Yellow soap, 1/4 " +Oil soap, 1/4 " +Brown coloring (caramel), 1/2 pint. +Otto of caraway, } +" cloves, } +" thyme, } each, 1/2 lb. +" cassia, } +" petit grain, } +" French lavender, } + +SAND SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Marine soap, 7 lbs. +Sifted silver sand, 28 lbs. +Otto of thyme, } + " cassia, } + " caraway, } each, 2 oz. + " French lavender, } + +FULLER'S EARTH SOAP. + +Curd soap, 10-1/2 lbs. +Marine soap, 3-1/2 lbs. +Fuller's earth (baked), 14 lbs. +Otto of French lavender, 2 oz. +" origanum, 1 oz. + +The above forms are indicative of the method adopted for perfuming soaps +while hot or melted. + +All the very highly scented soaps are, however, perfumed cold, in order +to avoid the loss of scent, 20 per cent. of perfume being evaporated by +the hot process. + +The variously named soaps, from the sublime "Sultana" to the ridiculous +"Turtle's Marrow," we cannot of course be expected to notice; the reader +may, however, rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission. + +The receipts given produce only the finest quality of the article +named. Where cheap soaps are required, not much acumen is necessary to +discern that by omitting the expensive perfumes, or lessening the +quantity, the object desired is attained. Still lower qualities of +scented soap are made by using greater proportions of yellow soap, and +employing a very common curd, omitting the oil soap altogether. + +SCENTING SOAPS HOT. + +In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scenting soap involved +the necessity of melting it. The high temperature of the soap under +these circumstances involves the obvious loss of a great deal of perfume +by evaporation. With very highly scented soaps, and with perfume of an +expensive character, the loss of ottos is too great to be borne in a +commercial sense; hence the adoption of the plan of + +SCENTING SOAPS COLD. + +This method is exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small +batches, involving merely mechanical labor, the tools required being +simply an ordinary carpenter's plane, and a good marble mortar, and +lignum vitae pestle. + +The woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at each end, so that when +placed over the mortar it remains firm and not easily moved by the +parallel pressure of the soap against its projecting blade. + +To commence operations, we take first 7 lbs., 14 lbs., or 21 lbs. of the +bars of the soap that it is intended to perfume. The plane is now laid +upside down across the top of the mortar. + +Things being thus arranged, the whole of the soap is to be pushed across +the plane until it is all reduced into fine shavings. Like the French +"Charbonnier," who does not saw the wood, but woods the saw, so it will +be perceived that in this process we do not plane the soap, but that we +soap the plane, the shavings of which fall lightly into the mortar as +quickly as produced. + +[Illustration: Soaping the Plane.] + +Soap, as generally received from the maker, is the proper condition for +thus working; but if it has been in stock any time it becomes too hard, +and must have from one to three ounces of distilled water sprinkled in +the shaving for every pound of soap employed, and must lay for at least +twenty-four hours to be absorbed before the perfume is added. + +When it is determined what size the cakes of soap are to be, what they +are to sell for, and what it is intended they should cost, then the +maker can measure out his perfume. + +In a general way, soaps scented in this way retail from 4_s._ to 10_s._ +per pound, bearing about 100 per cent. profit, which is not too much +considering their limited sale. The soap being in a proper physical +condition with regard to moisture, &c., is now to have the perfume well +stirred into it. The pestle is then set to work for the process of +incorporation. After a couple of hours of "warm exercise," the soap is +generally expected to be free from streaks, and to be of one uniform +consistency. + +For perfuming soap in large portions by the cold process, instead of +using the pestle and mortar as an incorporator, it is more convenient +and economical to employ a mill similar in construction to a cake +chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill; any mechanical apparatus that +answers for mixing paste and crushing lumps will serve pretty well for +blending soap together. + +Before going into the mill, the soap is to be reduced to shavings, and +have the scent and color stirred in; after leaving it, the flakes or +ribands of soap are to be finally bound together by the pestle and +mortar into one solid mass; it is then weighed out in quantities for the +tablets required, and moulded by the hand into egg-shaped masses; each +piece being left in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet +of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the +press, which is the same as that previously mentioned. It is usual, +before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to dust them over with a +little starch-powder, or else to very slightly oil the mould; either of +these plans prevents the soap from adhering to the letters or embossed +work of the mould--a condition essential for turning out a clean +well-struck tablet. + +The body of all the fine soaps mentioned below should consist of the +finest and whitest curd soap, or of a soap previously melted and colored +to the required shade, thus:-- + +ROSE-COLORED SOAP is curd soap stained with vermilion, ground +in water, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted, and not very +hot. + +GREEN SOAP is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap, to +which is added powdered smalt ground with water. + +BLUE SOAP, curd soap colored with smalt. + +BROWN SOAP, curd soap with caramel, _i.e._ burnt sugar. + +The intensity of color varies, of course, with the quantity of coloring. + +Some kinds of soap become colored or tinted to a sufficient extent by +the mere addition of the ottos used for scenting, such as "spermaceti +soap," "lemon soap," &c., which become of a beautiful pale lemon color +by the mere mixing of the perfume with the curd soap. + + +OTTO OF ROSE SOAP. + +(_To retail at 10s. per pound_.) + +Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion), 4-1/2 lbs. +Otto of rose, 1 oz. +Spirituous extract of musk, 2 oz. +Otto of santal, 1/4 oz. + " geranium, 1/4 oz. + +Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together. + +TONQUIN MUSK SOAP. + +Pale brown-colored curd soap, 5 lbs. +Grain musk, 1/4 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + +Rub the musk with the bergamot, then add it to the soap, and beat up. + +ORANGE-FLOWER SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Otto of neroli, 3-1/2 oz. + +SANTAL-WOOD SOAP. + +Curd soap, 7 lbs. +Otto of santal, 7 oz. +" bergamot, 2 oz. + +SPERMACETI SOAP. + +Curd soap, 14 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 2-1/2 lbs. + " lemon, 1/2 lb. + +CITRON SOAP. + +Curd soap, 6 lbs. +Otto of citron, 3/4 lb. + " verbena (lemon-grass), 1/2 oz. + " bergamot, 4 oz. + " lemon, 2 oz. + +One of the best of fancy soaps that is made. + +FRANGIPANNE SOAP. + +Curd soap (previously colored light brown), 7 lbs. +Civet, 1/4 oz. +Otto of neroli, 1/2 oz. +" santal, 1-1/2 oz. +" rose, 1/4 oz. +" vitivert, 1/2 oz. + +Rub the civet with the various ottos, mix, and beat in the usual manner. + +PATCHOULY SOAP. + +Curd soap, 4-1/2 lbs. +Otto of patchouly, 1 oz. +" santal, } +" vitivert, } of each, 1/4 oz. + +SAPONACEOUS CREAM OF ALMONDS. + +The preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap of lard. It +has a beautiful pearly appearance, and has met with extensive demand as +a shaving soap. Being also used in the manufacture of +EMULSINES, it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by +the perfumer. It is made thus:-- + +Clarified lard, 7 lbs. +Potash of lye (containing 26 per cent. of caustic + potash), 3-3/4 lbs. +Rectified spirit, 3 oz. +Otto of almonds, 2 drachms. + +_Manipulation_.--Melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by a salt-water +bath, or by a steam heat under 15 lbs. pressure; then run in the lye, +_very slowly_, agitating the whole time; when about half the lye is in, +the mixture begins to curdle; it will, however, become so firm that it +cannot be stirred. The creme is then finished, but is not pearly; it +will, however, assume that appearance by long trituration in a mortar, +gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved the perfume. + +SOAP POWDERS. + +These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifrice and at others for +shaving; they are made by reducing the soap into shavings by a plane, +then thoroughly drying them in a warm situation, afterwards grinding in +a mill, then perfuming with any otto desired. + +RYPOPHAGON SOAP. + +Best yellow soap, } +Fig soft soap, } equal parts melted together. + +Perfume with anise and citronella. + +AMBROSIAL CREAM. + +Color the grease very strongly with alkanet root, then proceed as for +the manufacture of saponaceous cream. The cream colored in this way has +a blue tint; when it is required of a purple color we have merely to +stain the white saponaceous cream with a mixture of vermilion and smalt +to the shade desired. Perfume with otto of oringeat. + +TRANSPARENT SOFT SOAP. + +Solution caustic potash (_Lond. Ph_.), 6 lbs. +Olive oil, 1 lb. + +Perfume to taste. + +Before commencing to make the soap, reduce the potash lye to one half +its bulk by continued boiling. Now proceed as for the manufacture of +saponaceous cream. After standing a few days, pour off the waste liquor. + +TRANSPARENT HARD SOAP. + +Reduce the soap to shavings, and dry them as much as possible, then +dissolve in alcohol, using as little spirit as will effect the solution, +then color and perfume as desired, and cast the product in appropriate +moulds; finally dry in a warm situation. + +Until the Legislature allows spirit to be used for manufacturing +purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our neighbors in this +article. + +JUNIPER TAR SOAP. + +This soap is made from the tar of the wood of the _Juniperus communis_, +by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable oil, such as almond or olive oil, +or in fine tallow, and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye, after +the customary manner. This yields a moderately firm and clear soap, +which may be readily used by application to parts affected with +eruptions at night, mixed with a little water, and carefully washed off +the following morning. This soap has lately been much used for eruptive +disorders, particularly on the Continent, and with varying degrees of +success. It is thought that the efficient element in its composition is +a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known in Paris under the +name _huile de cade_. On account of its ready miscibility with water, it +possesses great advantage over the common tar ointment. + +MEDICATED SOAPS. + +Six years ago I began making a series of medicated soaps, such as +SULPHUR SOAP, IODINE SOAP, BROMINE SOAP, CREOSOTE SOAP, MERCURIAL +SOAP, CROTON OIL SOAP, and many others. These soaps are prepared by +adding the medicant to curd soap, and then making in a tablet form for +use. For sulphur soap, the curd soap may be melted, and flowers of +sulphur added while the soap is in a soft condition. For antimony soap +and mercurial soap, the low oxides of the metals employed may also be +mixed in the curd soap in a melted state. Iodine, bromine, creosote +soap, and others containing very volatile substances, are best prepared +cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant +with it by long beating. + +In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they +will prove of infinite service as auxiliaries to the general treatment. +It is obvious that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active +during the lavoratory process; such soap must not, therefore, be used +except by the special advice of a medical man. Probably these soaps will +be found useful for internal application. The precedent of the use of +Castile soap (containing oxide of iron) renders it likely that when +prejudice has passed away, such soaps will find a place in the +pharmacopoeias. The discovery of the solubility, under certain +conditions, of the active alkaloids, quinine, morphia, &c., in oil, by +Mr. W. Bastick, greatly favors the supposition of analogous compounds in +soap. + + + + +SECTION IX. + +EMULSINES. + + +From soaps proper we now pass to those compounds used as substitutes for +soap, which are classed together under one general title as above, for +the reason that all cosmetiques herein embraced have the property of +forming emulsions with water. + +Chemically considered, they are an exceedingly interesting class of +compounds, and are well worthy of study. Being prone to decomposition, +as might be expected from their composition, they should be made only in +small portions, or, at least, only in quantities to meet a ready sale. + +While in stock they should be kept as cool as possible, and free from a +damp atmosphere. + +AMANDINE. + +Fine almond oil, 7 lbs. +Simple syrup,[E] 4 oz. +White soft soap, or saponaceous cream, _i.e._ } + Creme d'Amande, } 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1 oz. + " bergamot, 1 oz. + " cloves, 1/2 oz. + +Rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture is homogeneous, then +rub in the oil by degrees; the perfume having been previously mixed with +the oil. + +[Illustration: Oil-Runner in Emulsine Process.] + +In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the difficulty is to get in +the quantity of oil indicated, without which it does not assume that +transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. To attain +this end, the oil is put into "a runner," that is, a tin or glass +vessel, at the bottom of which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The +oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run slowly into the mortar +in which the amandine is being made, just as fast as the maker finds +that he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and syrup; and so long +as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the +hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar quicker than the +workman can blend it with the paste, then the paste becomes "oiled," and +may be considered as "done for," unless, indeed, the whole process be +gone through again, starting off with fresh syrup and soap, using up the +greasy mass as if it were pure oil. This liability to "go off," +increases as the amandine nears the finish; hence extra caution and +plenty of "elbow grease" must be used during the addition of the last +two pounds of oil. If the oil be not perfectly fresh, or if the +temperature of the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat, it +will be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the +formula into combination; when the mass becomes bright and of a +crystalline lustre, it will be well to stop the further addition of oil +to it. + +This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the +lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to +exclude air. When the amandine is filled into the jars, the top or face +of it is marked or ornamented with a tool made to the size of half the +diameter of the interior of the jar, in a similar way to a saw; a piece +of lead or tortoise-shell, being serrated with an angular file, or piece +of an "old saw," will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, +and turn the jar gently round. + +OLIVINE. + +Gum acacia, in powder, 2 oz. +Honey, 6 oz. +Yolk of eggs, in number, 5. +White soft soap, 3 oz. +Olive oil, 2 lbs. +Green oil, 1 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" lemon, 1 oz. +" cloves, 1/2 oz. +" thyme and cassia, each, 1/2 drachm. + +Rub the gum and honey together until incorporated, then add the soap +and egg. Having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the +mixture is to be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly +as indicated for amandine. + +HONEY AND ALMOND PASTE. (_Pate d'Amande au Miel_.) + +Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1/2 lb. +Honey, 1 lb. +Yolk of eggs, in number, 8. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + " cloves, 1/4 oz. + +Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and +finally the ground almonds and the perfume. + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1-1/2 lb. +Rose-water, 1-1/2 pint. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 16 oz. +Otto of bergamot, 3 oz. + +Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stewpan; +with a slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their granular +texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the +whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan, +and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odor. + +The large quantity of otto of almonds which is volatilized during the +process, renders it essential that the operator should avoid the vapor +as much as possible. + +When the almonds are nearly cooked, the remaining water is to be added; +finally the paste is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the pestle; +then the perfume and spirit are added. Before potting this paste, as +well as honey paste, it should be passed through a medium fine sieve, to +insure uniformity of texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly. + +Other pastes, such as _Pate de Pistache_, _Pate de Cocos_, _Pate de +Guimauve_, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is +unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not be +confounded with preparations bearing a similar name made by +confectioners. + +ALMOND MEAL. + +Ground almonds, 1 lb. +Wheat flour, 1 lb. +Orris-root powder, 1/4 lb. +Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. + " almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +PISTACHIO NUT MEAL, OR ANY OTHER NUT. + +Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds } + are bleached), } 1 lb. +Orris powder, 1 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1 drachm. + " lemons, 1/2 oz. + +Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are +occasionally in demand, and are prepared as the foregoing. + +All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory process as +substitutes for soap, and to "render the skin pliant, soft, and fair!" + +EMULSIN AU JASMIN. + +Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. +Simple syrup, 1-1/2 oz. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Best jasmine oil, 1/2 lb. + +EMULSIN A LE VIOLETTE. + +Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. +Syrup of violets, 1-1/2 oz. +Best violet oil, 1-1/2 lb. + +Emulsin of other odors can be prepared with tubereuse, rose, or cassie +(acacia) oil (prepared by enfleurage or maceration). + +For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see "Amandine," p. 195. + +On account of the high price of the French oils, these preparations are +expensive, but they are undoubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques. + + + + +SECTION X. + +MILK, OR EMULSIONS. + + +In the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready sale than +that class of cosmetiques denominated milks. It has long been known that +nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts, when decorticated +and freed from their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and +rubbed with about four times their weight of water, produce fluid which +has every analogy to cow's milk. The milky appearance of these emulsions +is due to the minute mechanical division of the oil derived from the +nuts being diffused through the water. All these emulsions possess great +chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition, and the +products emanating from their fermentation, especially that made with +sweet almonds and pistachios (_Pistachia vera_). + +In the manufacture of various milks for sale, careful manipulation is of +the utmost importance, otherwise these emulsions "will not keep;" hence +more loss than profit. + +"Transformation takes place in the elements of vegetable caseine +(existing in seeds) from _the very moment_ that sweet almonds are +converted into almond-milk."--LIEBIG. This accounts for the +difficulty many persons find in making milk of almonds that does not +spontaneously divide, a day or so after its manufacture. + +MILK OF ROSES. + +Valencia almonds (blanched), 1/2 lb. +Rose-water, 1 quart. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 1/4 pint. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. +White wax, spermaceti, oil soap, each, 1/2 oz. + +_Manipulation_.--Shave up the soap, and place it in a vessel that can be +heated by steam or water-bath; add to it two or three ounces of +rose-water. When the soap is perfectly melted, add the wax and +spermaceti, without dividing them more than is necessary to obtain the +correct weight; this insures their melting slowly, and allows time for +their partial saponification by the fluid soap; occasional stirring is +necessary. While this is going on, blanch the almonds, carefully +excluding every particle that is in the least way damaged. Now proceed +to beat up the almonds in a scrupulously clean mortar, allowing the +rose-water to trickle into the mass by degrees; the runner, as used for +the oil in the manufacture of olivine, is very convenient for this +purpose. When the emulsion of almonds is thus finished, it is to be +strained, _without pressure_, through clean _washed_ muslin (_new_ +muslin often contains starch, flour, gum, or dextrine). + +The previously-formed saponaceous mixture is now to be placed in the +mortar, and the ready-formed emulsion in the runner; the soapy compound +and the emulsion is then carefully blended together. As the last of the +emulsion runs into the mortar, the spirit, in which the otto of roses +has been dissolved, is to take its place, and to be _gradually_ trickled +into the other ingredients. A too sudden addition of the spirit +frequently coagulates the milk and causes it to be curdled; as it is, +the temperature of the mixture rises, and every means must be taken to +keep it down; the constant agitation and cold mortar effecting that +object pretty well. Finally, the now formed milk of roses is to be +strained. + +The almond residue may be washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water, +in order to prevent any loss in bulk to the whole given quantity. The +newly-formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a tap in it +about a quarter of an inch from the bottom. After standing perfectly +quiet for twenty-four hours it is fit to bottle. All the above +precautions being taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without +precipitate or creamy supernatation. These directions apply to all the +other forms of milk now given. + +MILK OF ALMONDS. + +Bitter almonds (blanched), 10 oz. +Distilled (or rose) water, 1 quart. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 3/4 pint.[F] +Otto of almonds, 1/2 drachm. + " bergamot, 2 drachms. +Wax, spermaceti, } +Almond oil, curd soap, } each, 1/2 oz. + +MILK OF ELDER. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Elder-flower water, 1 pint. +Alcohol (60 o.p.), 8 oz. +Oil of elder flowers, prepared by maceration, 1/2 oz. +Wax, sperm, soap, each, 1/2 oz. + +MILK OF DANDELION. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. +Expressed juice of dandelion root, 1 oz. +Esprit tubereuse, 8 oz. +Green oil, wax, } +Curd soap, } each 1/2 oz. + +Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh pressed; as it is in +itself an emulsion, it may be put into the mortar after the almonds are +broken up, and stirred with the water and spirit in the usual manner. + +MILK OF CUCUMBER. + +Sweet almonds, 4 oz. +Expressed juice of cucumbers, 1 pint. +Spirit (60 o.p.), 8 oz. +Essence of cucumbers, 1/4 pint. +Green oil, wax, } +Curd soap, } each 1/2 oz. + +Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute, +cool it as quickly as possible, then strain through fine muslin; proceed +to manipulate in the usual manner. + +ESSENCE OF CUCUMBERS. + +Break up in a mortar 28 lbs. of good fresh cucumbers; with the pulp +produced mix 2 pints rectified spirit (sp. gr. .837), and allow the +mixture to stand for a day and night; then distil the whole, and draw +off a pint and a half. The distillation may be continued so as to obtain +another pint fit for ulterior purposes. + +CREME DE PISTACHE. (_Milk of Pistachio Nuts_.) + +Pistachio nuts, 3 oz. +Orange-flower water, 3-1/4 pints. +Esprit neroli, 3/4 pint. +Palm soap, } +Green oil, wax, } each, 1 oz. +Spermaceti, } + +LAIT VIRGINAL. + +Rose-water, 1 quart. +Tincture benzoin, 1/2 oz. + +Add the water very slowly to the tincture; by so doing an opalescent +milky fluid is produced, which will retain its consistency for many +years; by reversing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, +a cloudy precipitate of the resinous matter ensues, which does not again +become readily suspended in the water. + +EXTRACT OF ELDER FLOWERS. + +Elder-flower water, 1 quart. +Tincture benzoin, 1 oz. + +Manipulate as for virgin's milk. + +Similar compounds may, of course, be made with orange-flower and other +waters. + + + + +SECTION XI. + +COLD CREAM. + + +GALEN, the celebrated physician of Pergamos, in Asia, but who +distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria, and Rome, about 1700 years +ago, was the inventor of that peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and +water, which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as +_Ceratum Galeni_ in Pharmacy. + +The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a different thing +to that given in the works of Galen in point of odor and quality, +although substantially the same--grease and water. In perfumery there +are several kinds of cold cream, distinguished by their odor, such as +that of camphor, almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by +English perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but +throughout Europe; the quantity exported, and which can only be reckoned +by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the repeated announcements that may +be seen in the shops on the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of +"Cold Creme Anglaise," is good proof of the estimation in which it is +held. + +ROSE COLD CREAM. + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +White wax, } +spermaceti, } each, 1 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/2 drachm. + +_Manipulation_.--Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel, which +should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable of holding twice +the quantity of cream that is to be made, place the wax and sperm; now +put the jar into a boiling bath of water; when these materials are +melted, add the oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the +flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied; now remove the jar and contents, +and set it under a runner containing the rose-water: the runner may be a +tin can, with a small tap at the bottom, the same as used for the +manufacture of milk of roses. A stirrer must be provided, made of +lancewood, flat, and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence, +resembling in form a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is +set running, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the +water has passed into it; now and then the flow of water must be +stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down, +and incorporated with that which remains fluid. When the whole of the +water has been incorporated, the cream will be cool enough to pour into +the jars for sale; at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The +reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious--the +heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by +evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars +into which it is poured, and retains "a face" resembling pure wax, +although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream. +When the pots are well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years. +If desired for exportation to the East or West Indies, it should always +be sent out in stoppered bottles. + +COLD CREAM OF ALMONDS + +Is prepared precisely as the above; but in place of otto of roses otto +of almonds is used. + +VIOLET COLD CREAM. + +Huile violette, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Wax and spermaceti, each, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +VIOLET COLD CREAM. IMITATION. + +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Huile cassie, 1/4 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Sperm and wax, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. + +This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired. + +TUBEREUSE, JASMINE, AND FLEUR D'ORANGE COLD CREAMS. + +Are prepared in similar manner to violet (first form); they are all very +exquisite preparations, but as they _cost_ more than rose cold cream, +perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter. + +CAMPHOR COLD CREAM. (_Otherwise Camphor Ice_.) + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Rose-water, 1 lb. +Wax and Spermaceti, 1 oz. +Camphor, 2 oz. +Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm. + +Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil, then manipulate as for +cold cream of roses. + +CUCUMBER COLD CREAM. (_Creme de Concombre_.) + +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Green oil, 1 oz. +Juice of cucumber, 1 lb. +Wax and sperm, each, 1 oz. +Otto of neroli, 1/4 drachm. + +The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to +pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be raised to a +temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which +it contains, and then strained through fine linen, as the heat is +detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto +of cucumber. The following method may be adopted with advantage:--Slice +the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the oil; +after remaining together for twenty-four hours, repeat the operation, +using fresh fruit in the strained oil; no warmth is necessary, or at +most, not more than a summer heat; then proceed to make the cold cream +in the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorized, the rose-water, +and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming, if necessary, with +a little neroli. + +Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the +Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit, +thus:--The lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a +water-bath; the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it; the vessel +containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool. +The lard will rise to the surface, and when cold must be removed from +the fluid juice; the same manipulation being repeated as often as +required, according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the +grease. + +PIVERS' POMADE OF CUCUMBER. + +Benzoinated lard, 6 lbs. +Spermaceti, 2 lbs. +Essence of cucumbers, 1 lb. + +Melt the stearine with the lard, then keep it constantly in motion while +it cools, now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the essence +of cucumbers; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated, +and the pomade is beautifully white. + +_Melons_ and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same +way. (See "Essence of Cucumbers," p. 204.) + +POMADE DIVINE. + +Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade divine, like James's +powder, has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine +expectations of its concoctors. This article strictly belongs to the +druggist, being sold as a remedial agent; nevertheless, what _is_ sold +is almost always vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus:-- + +Spermaceti, 1/4 lb. +Lard, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Gum benzoin, 1/4 lb. +Vanilla beans, 1-1/2 oz. + +Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not +exceeding 90 deg. C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may be +poured into the bottles for sale. (Must be _stamped_ if its medicinal +qualities are stated.) + +ALMOND BALLS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1/2 lb. +Otto of almonds, 1 drachm. + " cloves, 1/4 drachm. + +CAMPHOR BALLS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1/2 lb. +Camphor, 1/4 lb. +Otto of French lavender or rosemary, 1/2 oz. + +Both the above articles are sold either white or colored with alkanet +root. When thoroughly melted, the material is cast in a mould; ounce +gallipots with smooth bottoms answer very well for casting in. Some +venders use only large pill-boxes. + +CAMPHOR PASTE. + +Sweet almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Purified lard, 1/4 lb. +Wax and spermaceti, } +Camphor, } each, 1 oz. + +GLYCERINE BALSAM. + +White wax, } +Spermaceti, } each, 1 oz. +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Glycerine, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm. + +Of the remedial action of any of the above preparations we cannot here +discuss; in giving the formulae, it is enough for us that they are sold +by perfumers. + +ROSE LIP SALVE. + +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Spermaceti and wax, each, 2 oz. +Alkanet root, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 1/4 drachm. + +Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated +by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest +on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; +finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it +cools. + +WHITE LIP SALVE. + +Almond oil, 1/4 lb. +Wax and Spermaceti, each, 1 oz. +Otto of almonds, 1/2 drachm. + " geranium, 1/4 " + +After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron +must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat +radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it +an even face. + +COMMON LIP SALVE + +Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet +root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve. + + + + +SECTION XII. + +POMADES AND OILS. + + +The name of pomatum is derived from _pomum_, an apple, because it was +originally made by macerating over-ripe apples in grease. + +If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves, then exposed +to the air for a few days, and afterwards macerated in purified melted +lard, or any other fatty matter, the grease will become perfumed. +Repeating the operation with the same grease several times, produces +real "pomatum." + +According to a recipe published more than a century ago the form given +is:--"Kid's grease, an orange sliced, pippins, a glass of rose-water, +and half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last +sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds." The author, Dr. Quincy, observes, +that "the apple is of no significance at all in the recipe," and, like +many authors of the present day, concludes that the reader is as well +acquainted with the subject as the writer, and therefore considers that +the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe are, likewise, of no +significance. According to ancient writers, unguent, pomatum, ointment, +are synonymous titles for medicated and perfumed greases. Among biblical +interpreters, the significant word is mostly rendered "ointment;" thus +we have in Prov. 27:9, "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart;" in +Eccles. 9:8, "Let thy head lack no ointment." + +Perfumers, acting upon their own or Dr. Quincy's advice, pay no regard +to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming +lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of them +or all blended, to produce a particular result, according to the name +that it bears. + +The most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum, &c., +is to start off with a _perfectly inodorous_ grease, whatever that +grease may be. + +Inodorous lard is obtained thus:--Take, say 28 lbs. of _perfectly fresh_ +lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel, that can be submitted to the +heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam under a slight pressure; +when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two +ounces of table salt; maintain the heat for some time, in fact till a +scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine +compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off; when the liquid +grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold. + +The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a time, +and is a work of much labor, which, however, is amply repaid by the +result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a +little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over +it; the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative +working a muller over it, precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in +oil. In this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt, also the +last traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole +is washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to +drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished. + +Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and takes a good +deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for perfuming with +flowers, because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its +_mal odeur_ than the expense of thus deodorizing it. Moreover, if lard +be used that "smells of the pig," it is next to impossible to impart to +it any delicate odor; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos, +the unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly becomes rancid. Under +any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not _perfectly inodorous_ +is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades. + +In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are +made by ENFLEURAGE, or by MACERATION[G] (see pp. 37, +38), the purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures is +of sufficient importance to become a separate trade. + +The purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great measure the same +as that for lard: the greater solidity of suets requires a mechanical +arrangement for washing them of a more powerful nature than can be +applied by hand labor. Mr. Ewen, who is undoubtedly the best +fat-purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating upon a circular +slab; motion is given to the roller by an axle which passes through the +centre of the slab, or rather stone bed, upon which the suet is placed; +being higher in the centre than at the sides, the stream of water flows +away after it has once passed over the suet; in other respects the +treatment is the same as for lard. These greases used by perfumers have +a general title of "body," tantamount to the French nomenclature of +_corps_; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet), pomades of soft +corps (lard). For making _extraits_, such as extrait de violette, +jasmin, the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred; but when scented +pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair, pomades of +soft corps are the most useful. + +The method of perfuming grease by the direct process with flowers having +already been described under the respective names of the flowers that +impart the odor thereto, it remains now only to describe those compounds +that are made from them, together with such incidental matter connected +with this branch of perfumery as has not been previously mentioned. + +ACACIA POMADE, commonly called CASSIE POMATUM, is made +with a purified body-grease, by maceration with the little round yellow +buds of the _Acacia Farnesiana_. + +Black currant leaves, and which the French term _cassie_, have an odor +very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used extensively for +adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils. The near similarity of +name, their analogous odor (although the plants have no botanical +connection), together with the word _cassia_, a familiar perfume in +England, has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the +true origin of the odor now under discussion. Cassie, casse, cassia, it +will be understood now, are three distinct substances; and in order to +render the matter more perspicuous in future, the materials will always +be denominated ACACIA, if prepared from the _Acacia +Farnesiana_; CASSE, when from _black currant_; and +CASSIA, if derived from the bark of the _Cinnamomum Cassia_. + +BENZOIN POMADE AND OIL. + +Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an ounce of +benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil, +deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals, similar to the crystals +that effloresce from vanilla beans; a portion of the acid, however, +remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to +it the peculiar aroma of benzoin; upon this idea is based the principle +of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process, that is, by +macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours, +at a temperature of about 80 deg. C. to 90 deg. C. Nearly all the gum-resins +give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies, when treated in the +same way; this fact becoming generally known, will probably give rise to +the preparation of some new remedial ointments, such as _Unguentum +myrrhae_, _Unguentum assafoetida_, and the like. + +TONQUIN POMADE, and TONQUIN OIL, are prepared by +macerating the ground Tonquin beans in either melted fat or warm oil, +from twelve to twenty-eight hours, in the proportion of + +Tonquin beans, 1/2 lb. +Fat or oil, 4 lbs. + +Strain through fine muslin; when cold, the grease will have a fine odor +of the beans. + +VANILLA OIL AND POMADE. + +Vanilla pods, 1/4 lb. +Fat or oil, 4 lbs. + +Macerate at a temperature of 25 deg. C. for three or four days; finally +strain. + +These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles +already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all +the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and +oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various +ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the +foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease, +however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is +far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos. + +The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly +because their perfume is lasting and flowery. + +POMADE CALLED BEAR'S GREASE. + +The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:-- + +Huile de rose, } +" fleur d'orange, } +" acacia, } of each, 1/2 lb. +" tubereuse and jasmin,} +Almond oil, 10 lbs. +Lard, 12 lbs. +Acacia pomade, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 4 oz. +" cloves, 2 oz. + +Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath, +then add the ottos. + +Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to "set" in the pots at +a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if required for exportation to +the East or West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums +instead of oils, or more lard and less almond oil. + +CIRCASSIAN CREAM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +Benzoin suet, 1 lb. +French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, colored with alkanet, 2 lbs. +Otto of rose, 1/4 oz. + +BALSAM OF FLOWERS. + +French rose pomatum, 12 oz. +" violet pomatum, 12 oz. +Almond oil, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. + +CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_First quality_). + +Huile de rose, 1 lb. +" tubereuse, 1 lb. +" fleur d'orange, 1/2 lb. +Spermaceti, 8 oz. + +CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_Second quality_.) + +Almond, 2-1/2 lbs. +Spermaceti, 1/2 lb. +Otto of lemon, 3 oz. + +Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath, then add the +oils; continue the heat until all flocks disappear; let the jars into +which it is poured be warm; cool as slowly as possible, to insure good +crystals; if cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of +crystals. This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far sells +well; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head +scurfy; indeed, the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in +flakes after it has been used a week or two. + +CASTOR OIL POMATUM. + +Tubereuse pomatum, 1 lb. +Castor oil, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 1/2 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. + +BALSAM OF NEROLI. + +French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb. +" jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Almond oil, 3/4 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1 drachm. + +MARROW CREAM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +Almond oil, 1 lb. +Palm oil, 1 oz. +Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm. +" bergamot, 1/2 oz. +" lemon, 1-1/2 oz. + +MARROW POMATUM. + +Purified lard, 4 lbs. +" suet, 2 lbs. +Otto of lemon, 1 oz. +" bergamot, 1/2 oz. +" cloves, 3 drachms. + +Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula +for half an hour or more; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of air +are inclosed by the pomatum, which not only increase the bulk of the +mixtures, but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation, rendering the +pomatum light and spongy; in this state it is obvious that it fills out +more profitably than otherwise. + +COMMON VIOLET POMATUM. + +Purified lard, 1 lb. +_Washed_ acacia pomatum, 6 oz. +" rose pomatum, 4 oz. + +Manipulate as for marrow pomatum. + +In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufacturing perfumers +used the washed French pomatums and the washed French oils for making +their greases. Washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that +originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage +and by maceration with the flowers; which pomades and huiles have been +subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the +handkerchief. After the spirit has been on the pomatums, &c., it is +poured off; the residue is then called _washed_ pomatum, and still +retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases. + +For pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to substitute rose, +jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the acacia pomatum in the +above formulae. + +POMADE DOUBLE, MILLEFLEURS. + +Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all made in +winter, with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-third best French oils; +in summer, equal parts. + +POMADE A LA HELIOTROPE. + +French rose pomade, 1 lb. +Vanilla oil, 1/2 lb. +Huile de jasmine, 4 oz. +" tubereuse, 2 oz. +" fleur d'orange, 2 oz. +Otto of almonds, 6 drops. +" cloves, 3 drops. + +HUILE ANTIQUE. (_A la Heliotrope_.) + +Same as the above, substituting rose oil for the pomade. + + +PHILOCOME. + +The name of this preparation, which is a compound of Greek and Latin, +signifying "a friend to the hair," was first introduced by the Parisian +perfumers; and a very good name it is, for Philocome is undoubtedly one +of the best unguents for the hair that is made. + +PHILOCOME. (_First quality_.) + +White wax, 10 oz. +Fresh rose-oil, 1 lb. +" acacia oil, 1/2 lb. +" jasmine oil, 1/2 lb. +" fleur d'orange oil, 1 lb. +" tubereuse oil, 1 lb. + +Melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath, at the lowest possible +temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour out the Philocome +until it is nearly cool enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots +into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or at least of the +same temperature as the Philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the +material as it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture. + +PHILOCOME. (_Second quality_.) + +White wax, 5 oz. +Almond oil, 2 lbs. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" lemon, 1/2 oz. +" lavender, 2 drachms. +" cloves, 1 drachm. + +FLUID PHILOCOME. + +Take 1 ounce of wax to 1 pound of oil. + +POMMADE HONGROISE. (_For the Moustache_.) + +Lead plaster, 1 lb. +Acacia huile, 2 oz. +Otto of roses, 2 drachms. +" cloves, 1 drachm. +" almonds, 1 drachm. + +Color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil; mix the +ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water. +Lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil: it is +best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists. + +HARD OR STICK POMATUMS. + +Purified suet, 1 lb. +White wax, 1 lb. +Jasmine pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Tubereuse pomatum, 1/2 lb. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. + +ANOTHER FORM,--_cheaper_. + +Suet, 1 lb. +Wax, 1/2 lb. +Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. +" cassia, 1 drachm. + +The above recipes produce WHITE BATONS. BROWN and +BLACK BATONS are also in demand. They are made in the same way +as the above, but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil. Such +colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's. + +BLACK AND BROWN COSMETIQUE. + +Such as is sold by RIMMEL, is prepared with a nicely-scented +soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber. The soap is melted, +and the coloring added while the soap is soft; when cold it is cut up in +oblong pieces. + +It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied with a small +brush and water. + + + + +SECTION XIII. + +HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORY. + + +By way of personal adornment, few practices are of more ancient origin +than that of painting the face, dyeing the hair, and blackening the +eyebrows and eyelashes. + +It is a practice universal among the women of the higher and middle +classes in Egypt, and very common among those of the lower orders, to +blacken the edge of the eyelids, both above and below the eye, with a +black powder, which they term _kohhl_. The kohhl is applied with a small +probe of wood, ivory, or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. +This is moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped in the powder, +and drawn along the edges of the eyelids. It is thought to give a very +soft expression to the eye, the size of which, in appearance, it +enlarges; to which circumstances probably Jeremiah refers when he +writes, "Though thou rentest thy face (or thine eyes) with painting, in +vain shalt thou make thyself fair."--_Jer._ 4:30. See also +LANE'S _Modern Egyptians_, vol. i, p. 41, et seq. + +A singular custom is observable both among Moorish and Arab +females--that of ornamenting the face between the eyes with clusters of +bluish spots or other small devices, and which, being stained, become +permanent. The chin is also spotted in a similar manner, and a narrow +blue line extends from the point of it, and is continued down the +throat. The eyelashes, eyebrows, and also the tips and extremities of +the eyelids, are colored black. The soles, and sometimes other parts of +the feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the nails, +are dyed with a yellowish-red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna +(_Lawsonia inermis_), the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle, +and is dried for the purposes above mentioned. The back of the hand is +also often colored and ornamented in this way with different devices. On +holidays they paint their cheeks of a red brick color, a narrow red line +being also drawn down the temples. + +In Greece, "for coloring the lashes and sockets of the eye they throw +incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire, intercept the smoke which +ascends with a plate, and collect the soot. This I saw applied. A girl, +sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa, and closing one of her eyes, +took the two lashes between the forefinger and thumb of her left hand, +pulled them forward, and then, thrusting in at the external corner a +sort of bodkin or probe which had been immersed in the soot, and +withdrawing it, the particles previously adhering to the probe remained +within the eyelashes."--CHANDLER'S _Travels in Greece._ + +Dr. Shaw states that among other curiosities that were taken out of the +tombs at Sahara relating to Egyptian women, he saw a joint of the common +reeds, which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of this +powder. + +In England the same practice is adopted by many persons that have gray +hair; but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder, +it is employed as a crayon, the color being mixed with a greasy body, +such as the brown and black stick pomatums, described in the previous +article. + +TURKISH HAIR DYE. + +In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly Armenians, who +devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics, and obtain large sums +of money from those desirous of learning this art. Amongst these +cosmetics is a black dye for the hair, which, according to Landerer, is +prepared in the following manner:-- + +Finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste, which +is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve, upon +which the residue is triturated with water into a paste, and heated +again to dryness. At the same time a metallic mixture, which is brought +from Egypt to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in +Turkish _Rastiko-petra_, or _Rastik-Yuzi_, is employed for this purpose. +This metal, which looks like dross, is by some Armenians intentionally +fused, and consists of iron and copper. It obtains its name from its use +for the coloration of the hair, and particularly the eyebrows--for +_rastik_ means eyebrows, and _yuzi_ stone. The fine powder of this metal +is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a +paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it acquires the +blackening property. In some cases this mass is mixed with, the powder +of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes, and +called _harsi_, that is, pleasant odor; and of these the principal +ingredient is ambergris. To blacken the hair a little of this dye is +triturated in the hand or between the fingers, with which the hair or +beard is well rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully +black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are +met with in the East among the Turks who use this black dye. Another and +important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein, that the +hair remains soft, pliant, and for a long time black, when it has been +once dyed with this substance. That the coloring properties of this dye +are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found by +treating the mass with water, may be with certainty assumed. + +LITHARGE HAIR DYE. + +Powdered litharge, 2 lbs. +Quicklime, 1/2 lb. +Calcined magnesia, 1/2 lb. + +Slake the lime, using as little water as possible to make it +disintegrate, then mix the whole by a sieve. + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Slaked lime, 3 lbs. +White lead in powder, 2 lbs. +Litharge, 1 lb. + +Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork. + +_Directions_ to be sold with the above.--"Mix the powder with enough +water to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush; +completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light +brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight +hours; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act unless it is moist, +it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or +other waterproof cap. + +"After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the +head with plain water; when dry, the hair must be oiled." + +SIMPLE SILVER DYE. (_Otherwise "Vegetable Dye._") + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. + +Before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by +washing it with soda or pearlash and water. The hair must be quite dry +prior to applying the dye, which is best laid on with an old +tooth-brush. This dye does not "strike" for several hours. It needs +scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by +exposing the hair to sunshine and air. + +HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Brown._) + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. +Rose-water, 9 oz. " +_The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. +" Water, 8 oz. " + +HAIR DYE, WITH MORDANT. (_Black._) + +Nitrate of silver, 1 oz., blue bottles. +Water, 6 oz. " +_The mordant_.--Sulphuret of potassium, 1 oz., white bottles. + " Water, 6 oz. " + +The mordant is to be applied to the hair first; when dry, the silver +solution. + +Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made, or at least, +well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead of the mordant +acting to make to make the hair black, it will tend to impart a _yellow_ +hue. When the mordant is good, it has a very disagreeable odor, and +although this is the quickest and best dye, its unpleasant smell has +given rise to the + +INODOROUS DYE. + +_Blue bottles._--Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the +above, then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes +cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver, continue to add +ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the +oxide of silver being redissolved. + +_White bottles_.--Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three +ounces of powdered gall-nuts; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms +the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like +the sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one. + +FRENCH BROWN DYE. + +_Blue Bottles_.--Saturated solution of sulphate of copper; to this add +ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as +with the silver in the above), producing the azure liquid. + +_White Bottles_.--_Mordant_.--Saturated solution of prussiate of +potass. + +Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in the same +manner as wool. + +There are in the market several other hair dyes, but all of them are but +modifications of the above, possessing no marked advantage. + +LEAD DYE. + +Liquid hair dye, not to blacken the skin, may be thus +prepared:--Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassae as much +freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the +resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water. Care must +be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it. + +QUICK DEPILATORY OR RUSMA. (_For removing hair._) + +As the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper +lip, upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to +beauty, those who are troubled with such physical indications of good +health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory +for removing it. + +This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from +the East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages. + +Best lime slaked, 3 lb. +Orpiment, in powder, 1/2 lbs. + +Mix the material by means of a drum sieve; preserve the same for sale +in well-corked or stoppered bottles. + +_Directions_ to be sold with the above. Mix the depilatory powder with +enough water to render it of a creamy consistency; lay it upon the hair +for about five minutes, or until its caustic action upon the skin +renders it necessary to be removed; a similar process to shaving is then +to be gone through, but instead of using a razor, operate with an ivory +or bone paper-knife; then wash the part with plenty of water, and apply +a little cold cream. + +The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated +cannot be given, because there is a physical difference in the nature of +hair. "Raven tresses" require more time than "flaxen locks;" the +sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered. A small feather is +a very good test for its action. + +A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding that I have only +given one formula for depilatory. The receipts might easily have been +increased in number, but not in quality. The use of arsenical compounds +is objectionable, but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of +the compounds. A few compilers of "Receipt Books," "Supplements to +Pharmacopoeias," and others, add to the lime "charcoal powder," +"carbonate of potass," "starch," &c.; but what action have these +materials--chemically--upon hair? The simplest depilatory is moistened +quicklime, but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above; +it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom time is no +object. + + + + +SECTION XIV. + +ABSORBENT POWDERS. + + +A lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent +powder; indeed, from our earliest infancy, powder is used for drying the +skin with the greatest benefit; no wonder that its use is continued in +advanced years, if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can +be employed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of "personal +adornment." We are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights +of such powders are used in this country annually. They are principally +composed of various starches, prepared from wheat, potatoes, and various +nuts, mixed more or less with powdered talc--of Hauey, steatite +(soap-stone), French chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. The +most popular is what is termed + +VIOLET POWDER. + +Wheat starch, 12 lbs. +Orris-root powder, 2 lbs. +Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. +" bergamot, 3/4 oz. +" cloves, 2 drachms. + +ROSE FACE POWDER. + +Wheat starch, 7 lbs. +Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm. +Otto of rose, 2 drachms. +" santal, 2 " + +PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER + +Is pure wheat starch. + +FACE POWDER. + +Starch, 1 lb. +Oxide of Bismuth, 4 oz. + +PERLE POWDER. + +French chalk, 1 lb. +Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz. +Oxide of zinc, 1 oz. + +BLANC DE PERLE + +Is pure oxide of bismuth in powder. + +FRENCH BLANC + +Is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve. + +This is the best face powder made, particularly as it does not discolor +from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere. + +LIQUID BLANC (FOR THEATRICAL USE). + +The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely +necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is +incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to +subdue it. + +Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than +half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:-- + +Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint. +Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz. + +Mixed by long trituration. + +CALCINED TALC + +Is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold under various +names; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind. + +ROUGE AND RED PAINTS. + +These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical use, but by +private individuals. Various shades of color are made, to suit the +complexions of the blonde and brunette. One of the best kind is that +termed + +BLOOM OF ROSES. + +Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz. +Finest carmine, 1/4 oz. +Rose-water, 1 pint. +Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz. + +Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow +them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then +add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet +situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine +will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for +sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; +nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less +sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration. + +Carmine cannot be manufactured _profitably_ on a small scale for +commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of +Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without +doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal +operative in the establishment is an old Englishman. + +"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on +the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are +engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being +costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently +made."--DR. URE. + +In the _Encyclopedie Roret_ will be found no less than a dozen recipes +for preparing carmine; the number of formulae will convince the most +superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld. + +Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of +manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete +success. + +Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from this source; +but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them. + +TOILET ROUGES. + +Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc +powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two +ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These +rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the +latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum +tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some +instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick +paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. +This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is +known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has +been imported into this country for many years. + +When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton +wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful +rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from +the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower +(_Carthamus tinctorius_); from this plant also is made + +PINK SAUCERS. + +The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is +removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a +weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated +into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution. + +Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the +same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as +Crepon rouge. + + + + +SECTION XV. + +TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES. + + +TOOTH powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the +teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, +as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of +the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the +act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most +useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful +and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss +of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the +swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect +resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, +and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the +gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the +action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious, +if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder +sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon +the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, +will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in +such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, +spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by +adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A +tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish +these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend +such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard +and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble +by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there +to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles +as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, +and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the +following formula:-- + +MIALHE'S TOOTH POWDER. + +Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen +parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much +as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition. + +His directions for the preparation of this tooth powder, are, to rub +well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add the sugar of milk, +previously powdered and sifted; and lastly, the essential oils are to be +carefully mixed with the powdered substances. Experience has convinced +him of the efficacy of this tooth powder, the habitual employment of +which, will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state. +For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of +the gums, he recommends the following astringent preparation:-- + +MIALHE'S DENTIFRICE. + +Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany +root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture +of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; +essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part. + +The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for +seven or eight days; and after filtration, the other articles are to be +added. A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four +spoonfuls of water, should be used to rinse the mouth, after the use of +the tooth powder. + +CAMPHORATED CHALK. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powdered orris-root, 1/2 lb. +Powdered camphor, 1/4 lb. + +Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little +spirit, then sift the whole well together. On account of the volatility +of camphor, the powder should always be sold in bottles, or at least in +boxes lined with tinfoil. + +QUININE TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Starch Powder, 1/2 lb. +Orris powder, 1/2 lb. +Sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm. + +After sifting, it is ready for sale. + +PREPARED CHARCOAL. + +Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs. +Prepared chalk, 1 lb. +Orris-root, 1 lb. +Catechu, 1/2 lb. +Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. +Myrrh, 1/4 lb. + +Sift. + +PERUVIAN BARK POWDER. + +Peruvian bark in powder, 1/2 lb. +Bole Ammoniac, 1 lb. +Orris powder, 1 lb. +Cassia bark, 1/2 lb. +Powdered myrrh, 1/2 lb. +Precipitated chalk, 1/2 lb. +Otto of cloves, 3/4 oz. + +HOMOEOPATHIC CHALK. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powder orris, 1 oz. +" starch, 1 oz. + +CUTTLE FISH POWDER. + +Powdered cuttle-fish, 1/2 lb. +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Powder orris, 1/2 lb. +Otto of lemons, 1 oz. +" neroli, 1/2 drachm. + +BORAX AND MYRRH TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Borax powder, 1/2 lb. +Myrrh powder, 1/4 lb. +Orris, 1/4 lb. + +FARINA PIESSE'S POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 2 lbs. +Orris-root, 2 lbs. +Rose pink, 1 drachm. +Very fine powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. +Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm. +" lemons, 1/4 oz. +" bergamot, 1/4 oz. +" orange-peel, 1/4 oz. +" rosemary, 1 drachm. + +ROSE TOOTH POWDER. + +Precipitated chalk, 1 lb. +Orris, 1/2 lb. +Rose pink, 2 drachms. +Otto of rose, 1 drachm. +" santal, 1/4 drachm. + +OPIATE TOOTH PASTE. + +Honey, 1/2 lb. +Chalk, 1/2 lb. +Orris, 1/2 lb. +Rose Pink, 2 drachms. +Otto of cloves, } +" nutmeg, } each, 1/2 drachm. +" rose, } +Simple syrup, enough to form a paste. + + +MOUTH WASHES. + +VIOLET MOUTH WASH. + +Tincture of orris, 1/2 pint. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. +Spirit, 1/2 pint. +Otto of almonds, 5 drops. + +EAU BOTOT. + +Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint. +" myrrh, 1/4 pint. +" rhatany, 1/4 pint. +Otto of peppermint, 5 drops. + +All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at least with +pale unsweetened brandy. + +BOTANIC STYPTIC. + +Rectified spirit, 1 quart. +Rhatany root, } +Gum myrrh, } of each, 2 oz. +Whole cloves, } + +Macerate for fourteen days, and strain. + +TINCTURE OF MYRRH AND BORAX. + +Spirits of wine, 1 quart. +Borax, } +Honey, } of each, 1 oz. +Gum myrrh, 1 oz. +Red sanders wood, 1 oz. + +Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually add +the spirit, which should not be stronger than .920, _i.e._ proof spirit, +the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days. + +TINCTURE OF MYRRH WITH EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. +Gum myrrh, 1 oz. + +Macerate for fourteen days, and filter. + +CAMPHORATED EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Eau de Cologne, 1 quart. +Camphor, 5 oz. + + + + +SECTION XVI. + +HAIR WASHES. + + +ROSEMARY WATER. + +Rosemary free from stalk, 10 lbs. +Water, 12 gallons. + +Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture. + +ROSEMARY HAIR WASH. + +Rosemary water, 1 gallon. +Rectified spirit, 1/2 pint. +Pearlash, 1 oz. + +Tinted with brown coloring. + +ATHENIAN WATER. + +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Alcohol, 1 pint. +Sassafras wood, 1/4 lb. +Pearlash, 1 oz. + +Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel; then, when cold, add +the pearlash and spirit. + +VEGETABLE OR BOTANIC EXTRACT. + +Rose-water, } +Rectified spirits, } of each, 2 quarts. +Extrait de fleur d'orange, } +" jasmin, } +" acacia, } of each, 1/4 pint. +" rose, } +" tubereuse, } +Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint. + +This is a very beautifully-scented hair wash. It retails at a price +commensurate with its cost. + +ASTRINGENT EXTRACT OF ROSES AND ROSEMARY. + +Rosemary water, 2 quarts. +Esprit de rose, 1/2 pint. +Rectified spirit, 1-1/2 pint. +Extract of vanilla, 1 quart. +Magnesia to clear it, 2 oz. + +Filter through paper. + +SAPONACEOUS WASH. + +Rectified spirit, 1 pint. +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Extract of rondeletia, 1/2 pint. +Transparent soap, 1/2 oz. +Hay saffron, 1/2 drachm. + +Shave up the soap very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the +rose-water; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the +spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After +standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling. By transmitted +light it is transparent, but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly +and singular wavy appearance when shaken. A similar preparation is +called Egg Julep. + +BANDOLINES. + +Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any +particular form. Some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum +containing wax, made up into rolls, called thence _Baton Fixeteur._ The +little "feathers" of hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by +the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth. For their formula, see +p. 224, 225. + +The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature, being made +either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water variously perfumed, also +by boiling quince-seed with water. Perfumers, however, chiefly make +bandoline from gum tragacanth, which exudes from a shrub of that name +which grows plentifully in Greece and Turkey. + +ROSE BANDOLINE. + +Gum tragacanth, 6 oz. +Rose-water, 1 gallon. +Otto of roses, 1/2 oz. + +Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a +thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After +about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a +coarse clean linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, and +passed through a linen cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of +consistency; when this is the case, the otto of rose is to be thoroughly +incorporated. The cheap bandoline is made without the otto; for colored +bandoline, it is to be tinted with ammoniacal solution of carmine, i.e. +_Bloom of Roses_. See p. 236. + +ALMOND BANDOLINE + +Is made precisely as the above, scenting with a quarter of an ounce of +otto of almonds in place of the roses. + + "Nor the sweet smell + Of different flowers in odor and in hue + Can make me any longer story tell." + + Shakspeare. + +[Illustration] + + + + +APPENDIX. + + * * * * * + +MANUFACTURE OF GLYCERINE. + + +Glycerine is generally made on the large scale, on the one hand, by +directly saponifying oil with the oxide of lead, or, on the other, from +the "waste liquor" of soap manufacturers. To obtain glycerine by means +of the first of these methods is the reverse of simple, and at the same +time somewhat expensive; and by means of the second process, the +difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the waste liquor +renders it next to impossible to procure a perfectly pure result. To +meet both these difficulties, and to meet the steadily increasing demand +for glycerine, Dr. Campbell Morfit recommends the following process, +which, he asserts, he has found, by experience, to combine the desirable +advantages of economy as regards time, trouble, and expense. One hundred +pounds of oil, tallow, lard, or stearin are to be placed in a clean +iron-bound barrel, and melted by the direct application of a current of +steam. Whilst still fluid and warm, add to it fifteen pounds of lime, +previously slaked, and made into a milky mixture with two and a half +gallons of water; then cover the vessel, and continue the steaming for +several hours, or until the saponification shall be completed. This may +be known when a sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright +surface on being scraped with the finger-nail, and at the same time, +breaks with a crackling noise. By this process the fat or oil is +decomposed, its acids uniting with the lime to form insoluble lime-soap, +while the eliminated glycerine remains in solution in the water along +with the excess of the lime. After it has been sufficiently boiled, it +is allowed to cool and to settle, and it is then to be strained. + +The strained liquid contains only the glycerine and excess of lime, and +requires to be carefully concentrated by heated steam. During +evaporation, a portion of the lime is deposited, on account of its +lesser solubility in hot than in cold water. The residue is removed by +treating the evaporated liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas, +boiling by heated steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that +may have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate, decanting or +straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the precipitated +carbonate of lime, and evaporating still further, as before, if +necessary, so as to drive off any excess of water. As nothing fixed or +injurious is employed in this process, glycerine, prepared in this +manner, may be depended upon for its almost absolute purity. + +M. Jahn's process is as follows:-- + +Take of finely-powdered litharge five pounds, and olive oil nine pounds. +Boil them together over a gentle fire, constantly stirring, with the +addition occasionally of a small quantity of warm water, until the +compound has the consistence of plaster. Jahn boils this plaster for +half an hour with an equal weight of water, keeping it at the same time +constantly stirred. When cold, he pours off the supernatant fluid, and +repeats the boiling three times at least with a fresh portion of water. +The sweet fluids which result are mixed, and evaporated to six pounds, +and sulphuretted hydrogen conducted through them as long as sulphuret +of lead is precipitated. The liquid filtered from the sulphuret of lead +is to be reduced to a thin syrupy consistence by evaporation. To remove +the brown coloring matter, it must be treated with purified animal +charcoal. However, this agent does not prevent the glycerine becoming +slightly colored upon further evaporation. It possesses also still a +slight smell and taste of lead plaster, which may be removed by diluting +it with water, and by digestion with animal charcoal, and some fresh +burnt-wood charcoal. After filtration, this liquid must be evaporated +until it has acquired a specific gravity of 1.21, when it will be found +to be free from smell, and of a pale yellow color. For the preparation +of glycerine, distilled water is necessary, to prevent it being +contaminated with the impurities of common water. Jahn obtained, by this +method, from the above quantity of lead plaster, upwards of seven ounces +of glycerine.--_Archives der Pharmacie_. + + * * * * * + +TEST FOR ALCOHOL IN ESSENTIAL OILS. + + +J.J. Bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash. When to an +ethereal oil, contaminated with alcohol, dry acetate of potash is added, +this salt dissolves in the alcohol, and forms a solution from which the +volatile oil separates. If the oil be free from alcohol, this salt +remains dry therein. + +Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, has suggested the following +method of applying it as the best:--In a dry test-tube, about half an +inch in diameter, and five or six inches long, put no more than eight +grains of powdered dry acetate of potash; then fill the tube two-thirds +full with the essential oil to be examined. The contents of the tube +must be well stirred with a glass rod, taking care not to allow the salt +to rise above the oil; afterwards set aside for a short time. If the +salt be found at the bottom of the tube dry, it is evident that the oil +contains no spirit. Oftentimes, instead of the dry salt, beneath the oil +is found a clear syrupy fluid, which is a solution of the salt in the +spirit, with which the oil was mixed. When the oil contains only a +little spirit, a small portion of the solid salt will be found under the +syrupy solution. Many essential oils frequently contain a trace of +water, which does not materially interfere with this test, because, +although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby, it still retains +its pulverent form. + +A still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a +water-bath. All the essential oils which have a higher boiling-point +than spirit, remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the +receiver with only a trace of the oil, where the alcohol may be +recognized by the smell and taste. Should, however, a doubt exist, add +to the distillate a little acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid, +and heat the mixture in a test-tube to the boiling-point, when the +characteristic odor of acetic ether will be manifest, if any alcohol be +present. + + * * * * * + +DETECTION OF POPPY AND OTHER DRYING OILS IN ALMOND AND OLIVE OILS. + + +It is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from +the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air by the first not +being convertible into elaidic acid, consequently it does not become +solid. Professor Wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for +the formation of elaidin, which is applicable for the purpose of +detecting the adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils. He +produces nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with +nitric acid. The vapor of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube +into water, upon which the oil to be tested is placed. If the oil of +almonds or olives contains only a small quantity of poppy oil when thus +treated, it is entirely converted into crystallized elaidin, whilst the +poppy oil swims on the top in drops. + + * * * * * + +COLORING MATTER OF VOLATILE OILS. + +BY G.E. SACHSSE. + + +It is well known that most ethereal oils are colorless; however, there +are a great number colored, some of which are blue, some green, and some +yellow. Up to the present time the question has not been decided, +whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a color, +or whether their color is not due to the presence of some coloring +matter which can be removed. It is most probable that their color arises +from the presence of a foreign substance, as the colored ethereal oils +can at first, by careful distillation, be obtained colorless, whilst +later the colored portion passes over. Subsequent appearances lead to +the solution of the question, and are certain evidence that ethereal +oils, when they are colored, owe their color to peculiar substances +which, by certain conditions, may be communicated from one oil to +another. When a mixture of oils of wormwood, lemons, and cloves is +subjected to distillation, the previously green-colored oil of wormwood +passes over, at the commencement, colorless, while, towards the end of +the distillation, after the receiver has been frequently charged, the +oil of cloves distils over in very dense drops of a dark green color. It +therefore appears that the green coloring matter of the oil of wormwood +has been transferred to the oil of cloves.--_Zeitschrift fuer Pharmacie._ + + * * * * * + +ARTIFICIAL PREPARATION OF OIL OF CINNAMON. + +BY A. STRECKER. + + +Some years since, Strecker has shown that styrone, which is obtained +when styracine is treated with potash, is the alcohol of cinnamic acid. +Wolff has converted this alcohol by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid. +The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which +ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of +cinnamic acid, that is, oil of cinnamon. It is only necessary to moisten +platinum black with styrone, and let it remain in the air some days, +when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound +may be obtained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the +addition of diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is +afterwards procured pure. These crystals also dissolve in nitric acid, +and then form after a few moments crystals of the nitrate of the hyduret +of cinnamyle. The conversion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle by +the action of the platinum black is shown by the following equation: + + C_{18}H_{10}O_{2} + 2 O = C_{18}H_{8}O_{2} + 2 HO.--_Comptes Rendus._ + + * * * * * + +DETECTION OF SPIKE OIL AND TURPENTINE IN LAVENDER OIL + +BY DR. J. GASTELL. + + +There are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce; one, which is +very dear, and is obtained from the flowers of the _Lavandula vera_; the +other is much cheaper, and is prepared from the flowers of the +_Lavandula spica_. The latter is generally termed oil of spike. In the +south of France, whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the +_Lavandula vera_ or _Lavandula spica_, it is named oil of lavender. + +By the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk and the leaves, +a small quantity of oil is obtained, which is rich in camphor, and is +there called oil of spike. Pure oil of lavender should have a specific +gravity from .876 to .880, and be completely soluble in five parts of +alcohol of a specific gravity of .894. A greater specific gravity shows +that it is mixed with oil of spike; and a less solubility, that it +contains oil of turpentine. + + * * * * * + +DIFFERENT ORANGE-FLOWER WATERS FOUND IN COMMERCE + +BY M. LEGUAY. + + +There are three sorts of orange-flower waters found in commerce. The +first is distilled from the flowers; the second is made with distilled +water and neroli; and the third is distilled from the leaves, the stems, +and the young unripe fruit of the orange tree. The first may be easily +distinguished by the addition of a few drops of sulphuric acid to some +of the water in a tube; a fine rose color is almost immediately +produced. The second also gives the same color when it is freshly +prepared; but after a certain time, two or three months at the farthest, +this color is no longer produced, and the aroma disappears completely. +The third is not discolored by the addition of the sulphuric acid; it +has scarcely any odor, and that rather an odor of the lemon plant than +of orange-flowers.--_Bulletin de la Societe Pharmaceutique d'Indre et +Loire._ + + * * * * * + +A FORMULA FOR CONCENTRATED ELDER-FLOWER WATER. + + +Krembs recommends the following process for making a concentrated +elder-flower water, from which he states the ordinary water can be +extemporaneously prepared, of excellent quality, and of uniform +strength:--2 lbs. of the flowers are to be distilled with water until +that which passes into the receiver has lost nearly all perfume. This +will generally happen when from 15 to 18 pounds have passed over. To the +distillate, 2 lbs. of alcohol are to be added, and the mixture distilled +until about 5 lbs. are collected. This liquor contains all the odor of +the flowers. To make the ordinary water, 2 ounces of the concentrated +water are to be added to 10 ounces of distilled water.--_Buchner's +Report._ + + * * * * * + +PRACTICAL REMARKS ON SPIRIT OF WINE. + +BY THOMAS ARNALL. + + +The strength of spirit of wine is, by law, regulated by proof spirit +(sp. gr. .920) as a standard; and accordingly as it is either stronger +or weaker than the above, it is called so much per cent. above or below +proof. The term _per cent._ is used in this instance in a rather +peculiar sense. Thus, spirit of wine at 56 per cent. overproof, +signifies that 100 gallons of it are equal to 156 gallons of proof +spirit; while a spirit at 20 per cent. underproof, signifies that 100 +gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. The rectified spirit of the +Pharmacopoeia is 56 per cent. overproof, and may be reduced to proof +by strictly adhering to the directions there given, viz., to mix five +measures with three of water. The result, however, will not be eight +measures of proof spirit; in consequence of the _contraction_ which +ensues, there will be a deficiency of about [Symbol: oz.]iv in each +gallon. This must be borne in mind in preparing tinctures. + +During a long series of experiments on the preparation of ethers, it +appeared a desideratum to find a ready method of ascertaining how much +spirit of any density would be equal to one chemical equivalent of +absolute alcohol. By a modification of a rule employed by the Excise, +this question may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows:-- + +To reduce from any given strength to any required strength, _add_ the +_overproof_ per centage _to_ 100, or _subtract_ the _underproof_ per +centage _from_ 100. Multiply the result by the quantity of spirit, and +divide the product by the number obtained by _adding_ the _required_ per +centage overproof, or _subtracting_ the _required_ per centage +underproof, to or from 100, as the case may be. The result will give the +measure of the spirit at the strength required. + +Thus, suppose you wished to reduce 10 gallons of spirit, at 54 +overproof, down to proof, add 54 to 100 = 154; multiply by the quantity, +10 gallons (154 x 10) = 1540. The required strength being proof, of +course there is nothing either to add to or take from 100; therefore, +1540 divided by 100 = 15.4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons +must be made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by the addition +of water. + +To ascertain what quantity of spirit of any given strength will contain +one equivalent of absolute alcohol. Add the overproof per centage of the +given spirit to 100, as before; and with the number thus obtained divide +4062.183. The result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four +equivalents (46 x 4). + +_Example._--How much spirit at 54 per cent. overproof is equal to 1 +equivalent of absolute alcohol? + +Here, + +54 + 100 = 154 and 4062.183 = 26.3778 galls., or 26 galls. 3 pts. + -------- + 154 + +which, divided by 4, gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 15 oz. + +Suppose the spirit to be 60 overproof,-- + + 4062.183 {one-fourth of which is equal +then ---------- = 25.388 gallons, {to 6 gallons, 2 pints, + (100 + 60) {15-1/2 oz. + +This rule is founded on the following data. As a gallon of water weighs +10 lbs., it is obvious that the specific gravity of any liquid +multiplied by 10 will give the weight of one gallon. The specific +gravity of absolute alcohol is 0.793811; hence, the weight of one gallon +will be 7.93811 lbs., and its strength is estimated at 75.25 overproof. + +4 equivalents of alcohol = 46 x 4 = 184, + +and + +23.17936 gallons x 7.93811 lbs. per gallon, also = 184.0003094. + +Hence it appears that 23.17936 gallons of absolute alcohol are equal to +4 equivalents. By adding the overproof per centage (75.25) to 100, and +multiplying by the quantity (23.17936 gallons) we get the constant +number 4062.183. + +The rule might have been calculated so as to show _at once_ the +equivalent, without dividing by 4; but it would have required several +more places of decimals; it will give the required quantity to a +fraction of a fluid drachm. + + * * * * * + +PURIFICATION OF SPIRITS BY FILTRATION. + +BY MR. W. SCHAEFFER. + + +Instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the +purification of spirits, Mr. Schaeffer proposes the use of a filter. In +a suitable vessel, the form of which is not material, a filtering bed is +constructed in the following manner:--On a false perforated bottom, +covered with woollen or other fabric, a layer of about six inches of +well-washed and very clean river sand is placed; next about twelve +inches of granular charcoal, preferring that made from birch; on the +charcoal is placed a layer of about one inch of wheat, boiled to such an +extent as to cause it to swell as large as possible, and so that it will +readily crush between the fingers. Above this is laid about ten inches +of charcoal, then about one inch of broken oyster shells, and then about +two inches more of charcoal, over which is placed a layer of woollen or +other fabric, and over it a perforated partition, on to which the spirit +to be filtered is poured; the filter is kept covered, and in order that +the spirit may flow freely into the compartment of the filter below the +filtering materials, a tube connects such lower compartment with the +upper compartment of the filter, so that the air may pass freely +between the lower and upper compartments of the filter. On each, of the +several strata above described, it is desirable to place a layer of +filtering paper. + +The charcoal suitable for the above purpose is not such as is obtained +in the ordinary mode of preparation. It is placed in a retort or oven, +and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed off, and the +flame become red. The charcoal is then cooled in water, in which +carbonate of potash has previously been dissolved, in the proportion of +two ounces of carbonate to fifty gallons of water. The charcoal being +deprived of the water is then reduced to a granular state, in which +condition it is ready for use. + + * * * * * + +ON ESSENTIAL OIL OR OTTO OF LEMONS. + +BY JOHN S. COBB. + +(_Read before the Chemical Discussion Society._) + + +I have recently made some experiments with oil of lemons, of which the +following is a short account:-- + +Being constantly annoyed by the deposit and alteration in my essence of +lemons, I have tried various methods of remedying the inconvenience. + +I first tried redistilling it, but besides the loss consequent on +distilling small quantities, the flavor is thereby impaired. As the oil +became brighter when heated, I anticipated that all its precipitable +matter would be thrown down at a low temperature, and I applied a +freezing mixture, keeping the oil at zero for some hours. No such +change, however, took place. + +The plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best which I had +arrived at, was to shake up the oil with a little boiling water, and to +leave the water in the bottle; a mucilaginous preparation forms on the +top of the water, and acquires a certain tenacity, so that the oil may +be poured off to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit. +Perhaps cold water would answer equally well, were it carefully agitated +with the oil and allowed some time to settle. A consideration of its +origin and constitution, indeed, strengthens this opinion; for although +lemon otto is obtained both by distillation and expression, that which +is usually found in commerce is prepared by removing the "flavedo" of +lemons with a rasp, and afterwards expressing it in a hair sack, +allowing the filtrate to stand, that it may deposit some of its +impurities, decanting and filtering. Thus obtained it still contains a +certain amount of mucilaginous matter, which undergoes spontaneous +decomposition, and thus (acting, in short, as a ferment) accelerates a +similar change in the oil itself. If this view of its decomposition be a +correct one, we evidently, in removing this matter by means of the +water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain the same +result as we should by distillation, without its waste or deterioration +in flavor. + +I am, however, aware that some consider the deposit to be modified +resin.[H] Some curious experiments of Saussure have shown that volatile +oils absorb oxygen immediately they have been drawn from the plant, and +are partially converted into a resin, which remains dissolved in the +remainder of the essence. + +He remarked that this property of absorbing oxygen gradually increases, +until a maximum is attained, and again diminishes after a certain lapse +of time. In the oil of lavender this maximum remained only seven days, +during each of which it absorbed seven times its volume of oxygen. In +the oil of lemons the maximum was not attained until at the end of a +month; it then lasted twenty-six days; during each of which it absorbed +twice its volume of oxygen. The oil of turpentine did not attain the +maximum for five months, it then remained for one month, during which +time it absorbed daily its own volume of oxygen. + +It is the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen, and remaining +dissolved in the essence, which destroys its original flavor. The oil of +lemons presents a very great analogy with that of oil of turpentine, so +far as regards its transformations, and its power of rotating a ray of +polarized light. Authorities differ as regards this latter property. +Pereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained by distillation with +water, from American turpentine, has a molecular power of right-handed +rotation, while the French oil of turpentine had a left-handed rotation. +Oil of lemons rotates a ray of light to the right, but in France a +distilled oil of lemons, sold as scouring drops for removing spots of +grease, possesses quite the opposite power of rotation, and has lost all +the original peculiar flavor of the oil. Oil of lemons combines with +hydrochloric acid to form an artificial camphor, just in the same manner +as does oil of turpentine, but its atom is only one half that of the oil +of turpentine. The artificial camphor of oil of lemons is represented by +the formula, C_{10}H_{8}HCl; the artificial camphor of oil of turpentine +by C_{20}H_{16}HCl. + +According to M. Biot, the camphor formed by the oil of lemons does not +exercise any action on polarized light, whilst the oil of lemons itself +rotates a ray to the right. The camphor from oil of turpentine, on the +contrary, does exercise on the polarized ray the same power as the oil +possessed while in its isolated state, of rotating to the left. These +molecular properties establish an essential difference between the oils +of turpentine and lemons, and may serve to detect adulteration and +fraud. It is also a curious fact, that from the decomposition of these +artificial camphors by lime, volatile oils may be obtained by +distillation, isomeric with the original oils from which the camphors +were formed; but in neither case has the new product any action on +polarized light. + +In conclusion, I would recommend that this oil, as well as all other +essential oils, be kept in a cool, dark place, where no very great +changes of temperature occur. + + * * * * * + +BENZOIC ACID, AND TESTS FOR ITS PURITY. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +Dr. Mohr's process for obtaining benzoic acid, which is adopted by the +Prussian Pharmacopoeia, unquestionably has the reputation of being the +best. According to this process, coarsely-powdered gum benzoin is to be +strewed on the flat bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of +nine inches, and a height of about two inches. On the surface of the pot +is spread a piece of filtering paper, which is fastened to its rim by +starch paste. A cylinder of very thick paper is attached by means of a +string to the top of the iron pot. Heat is then applied by placing the +pot on a plate covered with sand, over the mouth of a furnace. It must +remain exposed to a gentle fire from four to six hours. Mohr usually +obtains about an ounce and a half of benzoic acid from twelve ounces of +gum benzoin by the first sublimation. As the gum is not exhausted by the +first operation, it may be bruised when cold and again submitted to the +action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid will sublime from +it. This acid thus obtained, is not perfectly pure and white, and Mohr +states that it is a question, in a medicinal and perfumery point of +view, whether it is so valuable when perfectly pure, as when it contains +a small portion of a fragrant volatile oil, which rises with it from the +gum in the process of sublimation. + +The London Pharmacopoeia directs that it shall be prepared by +sublimation, and does not prescribe that it shall be free from this oil, +to which it principally owes its agreeable odor. + +By the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid is not +volatilized. What remains in the resin may be separated by boiling it +with caustic lime, and precipitating the acid from the resulting +benzoate of lime with hydrochloric acid. Benzoic acid can be obtained +also in the wet way, and the resin yields a greater product in this +process than in the former; yet it has a less perfumery value, because +it is free from the volatile oil which, as above stated, gives it its +peculiar odor. The wet method devised by Scheele is as follows:--Make +one ounce of freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces +of hot water. To the milk of lime, four ounces of powdered benzoin and +thirty ounces of water are to be added, and the mixture boiled for half +an hour, and stirred during this operation, and afterwards strained +through linen. The residue must be a second time boiled with twenty +ounces of water and strained, and a third time with ten ounces; the +fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to one-fourth of their +volume, and sufficient hydrochloric acid added to render them slightly +acid. When quite cold, the crystals are to be separated from the fluid +by means of a linen strainer, upon which they are to be washed with cold +water, and pressed, and then dissolved in hot distilled water, from +which the crystals separate on cooling. When hydrochloric acid is added +to a cold concentrated solution of the salts of benzoic acid, it is +precipitated as a white powder. If the solution of the salts of this +acid is too dilute and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid +will be separated. However, the weaker the solution is, and the more +slowly it is cooled, the larger will be the crystals of this acid. In +the preparation of this acid in the wet way, lime is to be preferred to +every other base, because it forms insoluble combinations with the +resinous constituents of the benzoin, and because it prevents the +gum-resin from conglomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an +excess of this base is but slightly soluble. + +Stoltze has recommended a method by which all the acid can be removed +from the benzoin:--The resin is to be dissolved in spirit, to which is +to be added a watery solution of carbonate of soda, decomposed +previously by alcohol. The spirit is to be removed by distillation, and +the remaining watery solution, from which the resin has been separated +by filtration, treated with dilute sulphuric acid, to precipitate the +benzoic acid. This method gives the greatest quantity of acid, but is +attended with a sacrifice of time and alcohol, which renders it in an +economical point of view inferior to the above process of Scheele. It +is so far valuable, that the total acid contents of the resin can be +determined by it. + +Dr. Gregory considers the following process for obtaining benzoic acid +the most productive. Dissolve benzoin in strong alcohol, by the aid of +heat, and add to the solution, whilst hot, hydrochloric acid, in +sufficient quantity to precipitate the resin. When the mixture is +distilled, the benzoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether. +Distillation must be continued as long as any ether passes over. Water +added towards the end of the operation will facilitate the expulsion of +the ether from the retort. When the ether ceases to pass over, the hot +water in the retort is filtered, which deposits benzoic acid on cooling. +The benzoic ether and all the distilled liquids are now treated with +caustic potash until the ether is decomposed, and the solution is heated +to boiling, and super-saturated with hydrochloric acid, which +afterwards, on cooling, deposits, in crystals, benzoic acid. + +Benzoic acid, as it exists in the resin, is the natural production of +the plant from which the resin is derived. It may also be produced +artificially. Abel found that when cumole (C_{18}H_{12}) was treated +with nitric acid, so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several +days, this hydro-carbon was converted into benzoic acid. Guckelberger +has, by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese and sulphuric +acid, obtained as one of the products benzoic acid. Albumen, fibrin, and +gelatin yielded similar results when treated as above. Woehler has +detected benzoic acid in Canadian castor, along with salicin. It is also +formed by the oxidation of the volatile oil of bitter almonds. Benzoate +of potash results when chloride of benzoyle is treated with caustic +potash. Benzoic acid in the animal economy is converted into hippuric +acid, which may by the action of acids, be reconverted into benzoic +acid. + +Benzoic acid should be completely volatile, without leaving any ash or +being carbonized when heated. When dissolved in warm water, to which a +little nitric acid has been added, nitrate of silver and chloride of +barium should produce no precipitates. Oxalate of potash should give no +turbidity to an ammoniacal solution of this acid. When heated with an +excess of caustic potash it should evolve no smell of ammonia, +otherwise, it has been adulterated with sal ammoniac. In spirit, benzoic +acid is easily soluble, and requires 200 parts of cold and 20 parts of +boiling water to dissolve one part of it. + + * * * * * + +ON THE COLORING-MATTERS OF FLOWERS. + +BY FREMY AND CLOEZ. + + +Chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of the coloring +matters of flowers. Their investigation involves difficulties which +cannot be mistaken. The matters which color flowers are uncrystallized; +they frequently change by the action of the reagents employed for their +preparation; and, also, very brilliantly-colored flowers owe their color +to very small quantities of coloring matter. + +On the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several opinions have +been expressed. Some observers have assumed that flowers owe their color +to only two coloring matters, one of which is termed anthocyan, and the +other anthoxanthine. Others will find a relation between the green +coloring of leaves, the chlorophylle, and the coloring matters of +flowers. They support their opinion generally on the results of the +elementary analysis of those different bodies; but all chemists know +that chlorophylle has not yet been prepared in a pure condition. +Probably, it retains various quantities of fatty and albuminous bodies. +Further, the coloring matters of flowers are scarcely known, so that it +is impossible to establish relations supported by the necessarily +uncertain composition of impure bodies. + +Some time since the blue color of flowers was ascribed to the presence +of indigo; but Chevreul has shown, in a certain way, that the blue +substance of flowers is always reddened by acids; and that with indigo +it is quite different, which, as is known, retains its blue color even +when the strongest acids are allowed to act on it. + +It is thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have heretofore +only in a superficial manner been examined, and that it is important to +again undertake their complete examination, as these bodies are +interesting to the chemist, because they are employed as reagents in the +laboratory for the recognition of alkalies; and by an improved knowledge +of them the florist might find the way by which he could give to +cultivated flowers various colors. + +We have believed that before undertaking their elementary analysis, +methods must be carefully sought for which can be followed for the +obtainment of the coloring matters of flowers, and that it should be +proved whether these substances are to be considered as independent +bodies, or whether they proceed from one and the same matter, which is +changed in various ways by the juices of the plant. + +We now publish the results of our first investigations. + +_Blue Coloring Matter of Flowers (Cyanine)._--The blue coloring matter +of flowers we propose to call cyanine. To obtain this substance we treat +the petals of _Centauria cyanus_, _Viola odorata_, or _Iris +pseudacorus_, with boiling alcohol, by which the flowers are +decolorized; and the liquid acquires immediately a fine blue color. + +If the coloring matter is allowed to remain some time in contact with +alcohol, it is perceived that the blue of the liquid gradually +disappears, and soon a yellow brown coloration takes its place. The +coloring matter has in this case suffered an actual reduction by the +prolonged action of the alcohol, but it will again assume its original +color when the alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air. Nevertheless, +the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too long with the +coloring matter, because the alcoholic extract will not then again +assume its blue coloration by the action of oxygen. + +The residue remaining from the evaporation of the alcohol is treated +with water, which separates a fatty and resinous substance. The watery +solution which contains the coloring matter is then precipitated by +neutral acetate of lead. The precipitate, which possesses a beautiful +green color, can be washed with plenty of water, and then decomposed +with sulphuretted hydrogen; the coloring matter passes into the watery +solution, which is carefully evaporated in a water-bath; the residue is +again dissolved in absolute alcohol; and lastly, the alcoholic solution +is mixed with ether, which precipitates the cyanine in the form of blue +flocks. + +Cyanine is uncrystallizable, soluble in water and alcohol, insoluble in +ether; acids, and acid salts color it immediately red; by alkalies it +is, as known, colored green. Cyanine appears to behave as an acid, at +least it forms with lime, baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green +compounds insoluble in water. + +Bodies absorbing oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphorous acid, and +alcohols, decolorize it; under the influence of oxygen its color is +restored. + +We must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beautiful blue substance +from _Centauria cyanus_ by treatment with absolute alcohol. + +_Rose-red Coloring Matter._--We have employed alcohol to extract the +substance which colors rose-red certain dahlias, roses, poeonias, &c. +For the procuration of this coloring matter the method pursued is +exactly as that for the preparation of cyanine. + +By an attentive comparison of the properties of this coloring matter +with those of cyanine, we have found that the rose-red coloring matter +is the same as the blue, or at least results from a modification of the +same independent principle. It appears in the rose-red modification, +when the juice of the plant, with which it exists in contact, possesses +an acid reaction. We have always observed this acid reaction in the +juices of plants with red or rose-red coloration, while the blue juices +of plants have always exhibited an alkaline reaction. + +We have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored flowers which are +cultivated in the Paris Museum to the influence of alkalies, and have +seen that they first become blue and then green by their action. + +It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those of the +_Mallow_, and in particular those of the _Hibiscus Syriacus_, acquire by +fading a blue and then a green coloration, which change, as we have +found, depends on the decomposition of an organic nitrogenous substance, +which is found very frequently in the petals. This body generates as it +decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the flowers the blue or green +color. By action of weak acids, the petals can be restored to their +rose-red color. + +The alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also be +observed when the petals are very rapidly dried, for example, in +_vacuo_, by which it cannot be easily assumed that a nitrogenous body +has undergone decomposition to the evolution of ammonia. But, before all +things, it must be mentioned that in this case the modification of color +passes into violet, and never arrives at green; and, further, that it is +always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid, which we have +detected by a direct experiment. Petals which were before rose-red, and +have become violet by slight drying, evolve carbonic acid, and on that +account it may be assumed that the rose-red color is produced in the +petals by this carbonic acid, and that by its expulsion the petals +assume the blue color, by which the flowers with neutral juices are +characterized. + +We believe that we are able to speak with certainty that flowers with a +rose-red, violet, or blue color, owe their coloration to one and the +same substance, but which is modified in various ways by the influence +of the juices of plants. + +Scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened by an acid, but in +such cases this substance is mixed with a yellow coloring matter which +we will now describe. + +_Yellow Coloring Matter._--The simplest experiments show that no analogy +exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow and that of +which we have already spoken. The agents which generate so easily with +cyanine, the rose-red, violet, or green coloration, cannot in any case +impart these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers. + +By the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers, we have +ascertained that they owe their coloration to two substances, which +differ from one another in their properties, and appear not to be +derived from the same independent principle. One is completely insoluble +in water, which we have termed xanthine, a name which Runge has given +to a yellow matter from madder. As this name has not been accepted in +science, we have employed it to denote one of the coloring matters of +yellow flowers. The other substance is very soluble in water, and is by +us termed xantheine. + +_Xanthine, or the Yellow Coloring Matter insoluble in water._--We have +prepared this coloring matter from many yellow flowers, but chiefly from +_Helianthus annuus_. + +To obtain it we treat the flowers with boiling absolute alcohol, which +dissolves the coloring matter in the heat, and by cooling almost +completely allows it again to precipitate. The yellow deposit which is +obtained in this way, is not pure xanthine, as it contains a rather +considerable quantity of oil. To separate this oil we have recourse to a +moderate saponification; thus, we heat the yellow precipitate with a +small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the +xanthine, which even contains the xanthine dissolved. As the coloring +matter is soluble in the soap solution, we do not treat the mass with +water, but decompose it with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the +fatty acids resulting from the saponification. This precipitate we treat +with cold alcohol, which leaves behind the fatty acids, and dissolves +the xanthine. This substance is a fine yellow color, insoluble in water, +but soluble in alcohol and ether, which are thereby colored golden +yellow. It appears to be uncrystallizable, and possesses the general +properties of resins. + +Xanthine, in combination with cyanine, modified by the various juices of +plants, communicates in variable proportions orange-yellow, scarlet-red, +and red colors to flowers. + +_Xantheine, or the Coloring Matter soluble in water._--By the +preparation of the substance which colors yellow certain dahlias, it is +at once perceived that it has no analogy to xanthine. The latter is as +known insoluble in water, while the coloring matter under consideration +is readily soluble in water. + +To obtain the xanthine we treat the petals of yellow flowering dahlias +with alcohol, which quickly dissolves the yellow coloring matter, +besides the fat and resin. The solution is evaporated to dryness, and +the residue treated with water, whereby the fat and resin are separated. +The water is again evaporated to dryness, and the residue treated with +absolute alcohol. The resulting solution diluted with water is mixed +with neutral acetate of lead, which precipitates the coloring matters. +The lead precipitate is then decomposed with sulphuric acid, upon which +the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water is purified by +alcohol. + +Xantheine is soluble in water, alcohol, and ether, but crystallizes from +none of these solutions. Alkalies color it intensely brown. Its power of +coloration is considerable. It dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone, +which is without brilliancy. Acids again destroy the brown coloration +produced by alkalies. Xantheine combines with most metallic bases, and +forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble lakes. + +The facts here related agree with all which has been previously observed +regarding the coloring matters of flowers. It is known that blue flowers +can become red, and even white, where their coloring matter is +destroyed, but never yellow--and _vice versa_. These three coloring +matters can generate the colors either alone or by admixture, which are +seen in flowers; but whether they are the only matters which color +flowers, we are at present unable to determine.--_Journal de +Pharmacie._ + + * * * * * + +IMPROVED PROCESS FOR BLEACHING BEES'-WAX AND THE FATTY ACIDS. + +BY MR. G.F. WILSON. + + +This improved process consists of two parts:--1st, the application of +highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters under treatment, by which +means the requisite heat for melting these substances is obtained, and +at the same time the atmosphere is thereby excluded; the heated steam so +applied in its passage off, carries with it the offensive smells given +off by the fatty matters, and being made to traverse a pipe or passage +up or along which gaseous chlorine is allowed to flow, a complete +disinfection of the offensive products is thereby effected. 2dly, the +treating of bees'-wax in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees'-wax, with +compounds of chlorine and oxygen, preferring to employ that disengaged +from chlorate of potash by treating it with sulphuric acid. For this +purpose, Mr. Wilson takes at the rate, say, of a ton of yellow +bees'-wax, and melts and boils it up with free steam for about half an +hour. It is then allowed to stand a short time, and is then decanted +into another vessel provided with a steam-pipe to emit free steam; about +20 lbs. of chlorate of potash is added, and the steam turned on; 80 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, diluted with a like weight of water, is then +gradually added. The matters are allowed to stand for a short time, and +are then decanted into another vessel, and again boiled up with free +steam, and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid. The +bees'-wax is then decanted into a receiver, and is ready for use. The +bees'-wax may, before undergoing these processes, be combined and boiled +up with a hard fatty acid, and then treated as above described. + + * * * * * + +CHEMICAL EXAMINATION OF NAPLES SOAP. + + +A. Faiszt has submitted this celebrated shaving soap to analysis. He +states that it is made by saponifying mutton fat with lime, and then +separating the fatty acids from the soap thus formed, by means of a +mineral acid. These fatty acids are afterwards combined with ordinary +caustic potash to produce the Naples soap. He found that 100 parts of +this soap contained + + Parts. +Fatty acids, 57.14 +Potash combined with the fatty acids, 10.39 +Sulphate of potash, chloride of potassium, + with a trace of carbonate of potash, 4.22 +Silica, &c., 0.46 +Water, 27.68 + ----- + 99.89 +_Gewerbeblatt aus Wurttemberg._ + + * * * * * + +MANUFACTURE OF SOAP. + + +The removal of the duty from soap, and the consequent emancipation of +this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the Excise, has given +a fresh impetus to the manufacture of this important article of daily +use, and enabled some processes to be practically carried out in +England, which, previous to the removal of the duty, could not be +adopted in this part of her Majesty's dominions. + +It will doubtless appear strange to those unacquainted with the +circumstances, that owing to the mode of levying the duty by +admeasurement, and not by actual weight, the maker of a particular kind +of soap was debarred the privilege of manufacturing in this country. +Fortunately for him, the manufacture of soap being free from all Excise +restrictions in Ireland, he was enabled to carry out his process in the +sister kingdom, whence it was exported to England, and admitted here on +payment of the Customs' duty, which was the same as the Excise duty on +its manufacture here. All this roundabout method of doing business is +now done away with, and no restriction now exists to mar the peace of +the soap manufacturer. + +Amongst various new processes lately introduced is that of Mr. H.C. +Jennings, which is practically carried out in the following manner:-- + +Combine 1000 lbs. of stearic or margaric acid, as free from elaine or +oleine as possible, or palmatine, or any vegetable or animal stearine or +margarine, at the temperature of 212 deg. Fahr., with a solution of +bicarbonate of potash or soda, specific gravity 1500. Constantly stir or +mix until an intimate combination is obtained, and that the elements +will not part when tried upon glass or any other similar substance. When +the mass is cooled down to about 60 deg. Fahr. add one pound per cent. of +liquor ammoniae, specific gravity 880, and one pound per cent. of +strongest solution of caustic potash; these are to be added gradually, +and fully mixed or stirred until perfectly combined. Dissolve 15 to 18 +pounds per cent. of common resin of commerce, by boiling it with a +solution of subcarbonate of potash and common soda of commerce, in equal +parts, as much as will give the solution a specific gravity of about +1800, when boiling hot. Mix these perfectly with the above-mentioned +stearic or margaric acids, and carbonated alkali; then add a strong +solution of caustic potash or soda, until a perfect saponification is +produced. The dose of caustic alkali will much depend upon the purity of +the stearine or margarine employed. The separation is now effected by +using common salt, or sulphate of soda, &c., as is known and practised +by soap manufacturers. If the soap intended to be produced is to be +colorless, no resin must be employed, and a larger dose of liquor +ammoniae and caustic alkali must be used, according to the dryness of the +stearine matters to be operated upon. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE AND CERTAIN METHOD TO DETERMINE THE COMMERCIAL VALUE OF SOAP. + +BY DR. ALEXANDER MUeLLER. + + +In consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are +determined in one portion of the soap, and the alkali by the +incineration of another, I consider the following method is not unworthy +of publication, because it appears to afford quicker and more correct +results by reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation. It is +available principally for soda soaps, which are the most common; but it +may be also employed with corresponding alterations for soaps which have +other bases. + +A piece of soap weighing two or three grammes is dissolved in a tared +beaker glass of about 160 cubic centimetres capacity with 80 to 100 +cubic centimetres of water, by heat, in a water-bath, and then three or +four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as much as is +necessary to decompose the soap, added from a burette. When, after +repeated agitation, the fatty acids have separated in a transparent +clear stratum from the aqueous solution, it is allowed to cool, and then +the contents of the beaker glass are placed in a moistened filter, which +has been previously dried at 212 deg. Fahr. and weighed. The contents of the +filter are washed until their acid reaction disappears. In the meanwhile +the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath, so that, it being already +dry, may support the washed and partly dry filter, which is laid on the +mouth of the glass as if it were in the funnel. The fatty acids soon +pass through the paper, and for the most part flow ultimately to the +bottom of the beaker glass; the increase of weight of which, after +cooling, and the subtraction of the weight of the filter, gives the +quantity of fatty acids present in the soap. A second drying and +weighing is not necessary, if on the cold sides of the interior of the +glass no damp is to be observed, which is occasioned by a trace of water +still present. If the quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap +is considerable, it may be easily found by incinerating the filter and +determining the weight of the residue. + +The fluid runs from the fatty acids on the filter, which, with the +washings, has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker glass, is +colored with tincture of litmus, and decomposed with a test alkaline +solution until the blue color appears. The difference of the quantity of +alkali required to neutralize the sulphuric acid, and the quantity of +sulphuric acid used in the first instance, allows a calculation to be +made as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap, for example:-- + +23.86 grms. of soap (partly cocoa-nut oil soap). +17.95 " fatty acids with filter. +04.44 " filter. +----- +13.51 grms. of hydrates of fatty acids = 56.62 per cent. + +28.00 cub. cent. of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the + decomposition of the soap, of which 100 cub. cent. + represent 2982 grms. of carbonate of soda. + +17.55 cub. cent. of alkaline fluid, which were used for the + saturation of the above acid, and of which 100 cub. + cent. saturate an equal quantity of that acid. +---- +10.45 cub. cent. of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali + contained in the soap, representing 0.1823 grms. of + soda = 7.64 per cent. + +A determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in another portion +of soap 9.57 per cent. of soda, because the sulphate of soda and +chloride of sodium present in the soap gave up their alkali. + +The alkaline fluid applied by me was a saccharine solution of lime, +which can be naturally replaced by a solution of soda, and must be if +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be +determined in the following way:-- + +The fluid again exactly neutralized with alkali is evaporated to +dryness, and the residue gently heated to redness. As in the above +manipulation, the fluid was not heated to the boiling point, the +original chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda are contained in the +weighed residue, besides the soda of the soap and that which has been +added with the sulphuric acid, forming sulphate of soda. A second +exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the whole residue +into sulphate of soda, and from the increase of weight, by a comparison +of the equivalents of NaCl and NaO, SO_{3} the quantity of the former +may be decided. According to the equivalents which Kopp furnished in +1850, the increase of weight to the chloride of sodium is as 1:4.68. The +original sulphate of soda must be, lastly, found by the subtraction of +the same salt formed plus the calculated chloride of sodium from the +first heated residue. + +In practice, it is seldom necessary to proceed with the determination of +the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda, except with stirred and +cocoa-nut oil soaps; certainly less of the truth is seen if, after the +above determination of the fatty acids and the effective alkali, the +absent per centage of water is introduced in the calculation, than if +the water is reckoned, which is never completely evolved from soap, even +technically prepared at 302 deg. Fahr., and another determination made of +the fatty acids or alkali _en bloc_ the fatty acids, or even the +alkaline contents. + +The method here given partakes of the usual imperfections, that the +fatty acids as well as the unsaponified soap are equally estimated, and +the mixed hydrate or carbonate of the alkali as well as the combined +alkali. The presence of the carbonate can be easily recognized by the +foaming of the soap solution, upon the addition of the sulphuric acid. +These imperfections, however, are of little importance. + +It must be granted that the minutely correct determination of the +constitution of soap must be always yielded up to those who are +technically conversant with this department of chemistry, the estimation +of free alkali and unchanged fat excluded in, at least, by certain ages +of the soap. Further, a considerable excess of one or another ingredient +soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the +characteristic properties of a good product, and a small excess can be +judged sufficiently exact from the proportion of the alkali, which, +supposing soda present, should not amount to more than 13 per cent. with +a pure cocoa-nut oil soap, not less than 11.5 per cent. with a tallow +soap; but with palm oil and mixed soaps the one or the other limit +approximates.--_Journal fuer Praktische Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +ON THE NATURAL FATS. + +BY DR. CHARLES LOeWIG. + + +The fats which exist in nature can be divided into the general and the +special; the former exist in almost all plants and parts of plants; the +latter includes only some vegetable substances, as _laurostearine_, +_myristicine_, and _palmatine_. The consistence of fats of the general +kind depend upon the proportions of margarine, stearine, and oleine +contained in them. The former preponderate in the solid fats (butter, +lard, and tallow); and the latter in the fluid ones or oils. According +as an oil contains oleic acid or olinic acid, it is termed a fatty or +drying oil. To the class of fatty oils belong olive, almond, hazel-nut, +beech, rape oils, &c.; to that of drying oils, linseed, nut, hemp, +poppy, grape-seed, oils, &c.; which are used for varnishes. + +In the vegetable kingdom the fats are chiefly in the seeds and in their +coverings, seldom in the perispemium (poppy), and in the fleshy +substance surrounding the seed (olive). The fat in the seed is mostly +enclosed in cells with a proteine compound. In the animal kingdom +certain parts of the body are quite filled with fat-cells, particularly +under the skin (_Paniculus adiposus_), in the cavities of the abdomen, +in the so-called _omentum_, in the kidneys and the tubulated canals of +the bones. Fat is also enclosed in cells (fatty globules) in milk. + +It is established, without a doubt, that a greater portion of the fat +which exists in the animal kingdom originates from the vegetable +kingdom, for it is introduced into the body cotemporaneously with the +proteine compounds of that kingdom. A portion of the fat as well as wax +is formed in the animal organismus, as shown by a number of +observations, and in most cases it is unquestionable that the +non-nitrogenous nutriments, as starch, serve for the formation of fat by +a process of deoxidation; nevertheless, the formation of fat in the +animal body appears only to take place when the substances containing +starch enter the body simultaneously with fat. + +If the fat existing in the animal body is contained in cellular tissue, +its separation may be simply effected by placing the incised tissue in +hot water. The cells burst and the fat collects itself on the surface of +the water. If vegetable substances contain fat in large quantity, as, +for example, seeds, it may be obtained by expression. The dried seeds +are bruised and expressed between either cold or hot metallic plates. +Olives are laid in heaps before expression; when they begin to ferment, +they can be completely expressed. If animal and vegetable substances +contain only a little fat, it must be extracted by ether. + +In the pure condition the fats are mostly odorless and tasteless; when +they possess an odor, it arises mostly from the presence of small +quantities of volatile fatty acids, as butyric acid, capric acid, &c.; +which becomes free through the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl +combinations. This ensues by the presence of water and air through a +kind of fermentation, and as it appears, by the presence of a +nitrogenous substance. The fats are insoluble in water, and, with the +exception of castor oil, are taken up by cold alcohol in very small +quantities, however, more in proportion as they contain oleine. In +boiling alcohol they are dissolved, but are, for the most part, again +separated on cooling, particularly those rich in stearine. All fats are +taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest +quantity. + +Their specific gravities fluctuate between .91 and .93. When heated, +fats assume a dark color, and boil between 482 deg. and 572 deg. Fahr., but the +boiling-point continuously rises, while an uninterrupted decomposition +proceeds. From oxide of glycyl ensues acroline; oleic acid affords a +fatty acid, and among the decomposition products of fats containing +stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid, and, at the same +time, some hydro-carbons are formed. When exposed quickly to a high +temperature, fats are completely decomposed. (Oil gas.) In closed +vessels the pure fats undergo no change, but, placed in thin layers in +the air, the fats containing oleine and oline rapidly absorb oxygen +under the strong evolution of heat, which will inflame porous bodies, as +cotton wool. The purer the fats are the more quickly their oxidation +results. When the fats contain slimy materials, these latter can be +destroyed with a little oxide of lead and water. (Preparation for the +application of varnishes.) The action of nitric acid, nitrous acid, +chlorine, sulphuric acid, &c., on fats is the same as that of these +bodies on the fatty acids. The fatty oils dissolve sulphur in the heat +which is again partly precipitated on cooling. When sulphur is heated +with fatty oils, namely, with linseed oil, it dissolves by degrees, and +a thick dark mass is formed, the so-called balsam of sulphur. By raising +the heat, a violent reaction ensues under the evolution of sulphuretted +hydrogen, and, at the same time, an oil resembling oil of garlic +volatilizes. This oil begins to boil at 160 deg. Fahr., but its +boiling-point rises continually. + + * * * * * + +PERFUMES AS PREVENTIVES OF MOULDINESS. + + +An interesting paper on this subject has been published by Dr. +Macculloch. We presume our readers are aware that mouldiness is +occasioned by the growth of minute vegetables. Ink, paste, leather, and +seeds, are the substances that most frequently suffer from it. The +effect of cloves in preserving ink is well known; any of the essential +oils answer equally well. Leather may be kept free from mould by the +same substances. Thus Russian leather, which is perfumed with the tar of +birch, never becomes mouldy; indeed it prevents it from occurring in +other bodies. A few drops of any essential oil are sufficient also to +keep books entirely free from it. For harness, oil of turpentine is +recommended. Bookbinders, in general, employ alum for preserving their +paste; but mould frequently forms on it. Shoemakers' resin is sometimes +also used for the same purpose; but it is less effectual than oil of +turpentine. The best preventives, however, are the essential oils, even +in small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise, or cassia, by which +paste may be kept almost any length of time; indeed, it has, in this +way, been preserved for years. The paste recommended by Dr. Macculloch +is made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little +corrosive sublimate; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the +sublimate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by +insects. After it is made, a few drops of any of the essential oils are +added. Paste made in this way dries when exposed to the air, and may be +used merely by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, +it ought to be put into covered pots. Seeds may also be preserved by +the essential oils; and this is of great consequence, when they are to +be sent to a distance. Of course moisture must be excluded as much as +possible, as the oils or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould. + + * * * * * + +FUSEL OIL. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +This organic compound was first discovered by Scheele, as one of the +distillation products of the wort obtained from the fermentation of +potatoes. It has been subsequently examined by Pelletier, Dumas, +Cahours, and others. It is generally now termed the hydrate of the oxide +of amyl, from amyl being supposed to be its base or radical, as cyanogen +is regarded to be the radical of another series of compounds. + +It passes over towards the termination of the distillation process in a +white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery and alcoholic solution of +the fusel oil. The crude oil, consisting of about one-half of its weight +of alcohol and water, may be purified, being shaken with water and +redistilled, with the previous addition of chloride of calcium. When the +temperature of the contents of retort reaches 296 deg. Fahr., pure fusel oil +distils over. + +Fusel oil is a colorless oily fluid, which possesses at first not an +unagreeable odor, but at last is very disgusting, producing oppression +at the chest and exciting cough. It has a sharp hot taste, and burns +with a white blue flame. It boils at 296 deg. Fahr., and at temperature of +-4 deg. Fahr. it becomes solid, and forms crystals. Its specific gravity at +59 deg. Fahr. is 0.8124, and its formula C_{10}H_{12}O_{2}. On paper it +produces a greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and when exposed to +the action of the air it acquires an acid reaction. Fusel oil is +slightly soluble in water, to which it imparts its odor; and soluble in +all proportions in alcohol, ether, volatile and fixed oils, and acetic +acid. It dissolves phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine without any +noticeable change, and also mixes with caustic soda and potash. It +rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid, with the disengagement of heat. When +mixed with concentrated sulphuric acid, the mixture becomes of a +violet-red color, and bisulphate of amyloxide is formed. Nitric acid and +chlorine decompose it. By its distillation with anhydrous phosphoric +acid, a fluid, oily combination of hydrogen and carbon results. By +oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, fusel oil yields +valerianic acid, which is used in medicine, and apple-oil, employed as a +flavoring ingredient in confectionery. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF PINE-APPLE. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +The above essence is, as already known, butyric ether more or less +diluted with alcohol; to obtain which pure, on the large scale and +economically, the following process is recommended:-- + +Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid, in 26 lbs. +of boiling water. Let the solution stand for several days; then add 8 +ounces of putrid cheese broken up with 3 lbs. of skimmed and curdled +sour milk and 3 lbs. of levigated chalk. The mixture should be kept and +stirred daily in a warm place, at the temperature of about 92 deg. Fahr., +as long as gas is evolved, which is generally the case for five or six +weeks. + +The liquid thus obtained, is mixed with an equal volume of cold water, +and 8 lbs. of crystallized carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in +water, added. It is then filtered from the precipitated carbonate of +lime; the filtrate is to be evaporated down to 10 lbs., when 5-1/2 lbs. +of sulphuric acid, previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are +to be carefully added. The butyric acid, which separates on the surface +of the liquid as a dark-colored oil, is to be removed, and the rest of +the liquid distilled; the distillate is now neutralized with carbonate +of soda, and the butyric acid separated as before, with sulphuric acid. + +The whole of the crude acid is to be rectified with the addition of an +ounce of sulphuric acid to every pound. The distillate is then saturated +with fused chloride of calcium, and redistilled. The product will be +about 28 ounces of pure butyric acid. To prepare the butyric acid or +essence of pine-apple, from this acid proceed as follows:--Mix, by +weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol, and two +parts of sulphuric acid in a retort, and submit the whole, with a +sufficient heat, to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes +over ceases to emit a fruity odor. By treating the distillate with +chloride of calcium, and by its redistillation, the pure ether may be +obtained. + +The boiling-point of butyric ether is 238 deg. Fahr. Its specific gravity, +0.904, and its formula, + +C_{12}H_{12}O_{4}, or C_{4}H_{5}O + C_{8}H_{7}O_{3}. + +Bensch's process, above described, for the production of butyric acid, +affords a remarkable exemplification of the extraordinary +transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or +by catalytic action. When cane sugar is treated with tartaric acid, +especially under the influence of heat, it is converted into grape +sugar. This grape sugar, in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous +substances, such as cheese, is transformed in the first instance into +lactic acid, which combines with the lime of the chalk. The acid of the +lactate of lime, thus produced, is by the further influence of the +ferment changed into butyric acid. Hence, butyrate of lime is the final +result of the catalytic action in the process we have here recommended. + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION OF CRUDE PELARGONATE OF ETHYL-OXIDE (ESSENCE OF QUINCE.) + +BY DR. R. WAGNER. + + +It has been believed, until the most recent period, that the peel of +quinces contains oenanthylate of ethyl-oxide. New researches, however, +have led to the supposition that the odorous principle of quinces is +derived from the ether of pelargonic acid. In my last research on the +action of nitric acid on oil of rue, I found that besides the fatty +acids, which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic acid is formed. +This process may be advantageously employed for the preparation of crude +pelargonate of ethyl-oxide, which, on account of its extremely agreeable +odor, may be applied as a fruit essence equally with those prepared by +Dobereiner, Hofmann, and Fehling. For the preparation of the liquid, +which can be named the essence of quince, oil of rue is treated with +double its quantity of very diluted nitric acid, and the mixture heated +until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to be observed +in the liquid: the upper one is brownish, and the lower one consists of +the products of the oxidation of oil of rue and the excess of nitric +acid. The lower layer is freed from the greater part of its nitric acid +by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath. The white flocks frequently +found in the acid liquid, which are probably fatty acids, are separated +by filtration. The filtrate is mixed with spirit, and long digested in a +gentle heat, by which a fluid is formed, which has the agreeable odor of +quince in the highest degree, and may be purified by distillation. The +spirituous solution of pelargonic ether may also be profitably prepared +from oleic acid, according to Gottlieb's method.--_Journal fuer +Praktische Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION OF RUM-ETHER. + + +Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric acid, each twelve pounds; +of alcohol, twenty-six pounds; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds. Mix, +and distil twelve pints. The ether, as above prepared, is an article of +commerce in Austria, being the body to which rum owes its peculiar +flavor.--_Austrian Journal of Pharmacy._ + + * * * * * + +ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. + +BY FEHLING. + + +_Pine-apple Oil_ is a solution of one part of butyric ether, in eight or +ten parts of alcohol. For the preparation of this ether, pure butyric +acid must be first obtained by the fermentation of sugar, according to +the method of Bensch. One pound of this acid is dissolved in one pound +of strong alcohol, and mixed with from a quarter to half an ounce of +sulphuric acid; the mixture is heated for some minutes, whereby the +butyric ether separates as a light stratum. The whole is mixed with half +its volume of water, and the upper stratum then removed; the heavy fluid +is distilled, by which more butyric ether is obtained. The distillate +and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water, the lighter +portion of the liquid removed, which at last, by being shaken with water +and a little soda, is freed from adhering acid. + +For the preparation of the essence of pine-apple, one pound of this +ether is dissolved in 8 or 10 pounds of alcohol. 20 or 25 drops of this +solution is sufficient to give to one pound of sugar a strong taste of +pine-apple, if a little citric or tartaric acid has been added. + +_Pear-oil._--This is an alcoholic solution of acetate of amyloxide, and +acetate of ethyloxide. For its preparation, one pound of glacial acetic +acid is added to an equal weight of fusel-oil (which has been prepared +by being washed with soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature +between 254 deg. and 284 deg. Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of sulphuric +acid. The mixture is digested for some hours at a temperature of 254 deg., +by which means acetate of amyloxide separates, particularly on the +addition of some water. The crude acetate of amyloxide obtained by +separation, and by the distillation of the liquid to which the water has +been added, is finally purified by being washed with soda and water. +Fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of +acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of alcohol; this is the essence of +pear, which, when employed to flavor sugar or syrup, to which a little +citric or tartaric acid has been added, affords the flavor of bergamot +pears, and a fruity, refreshing taste. + +_Apple-oil_ is an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyloxide. It is +obtained impure, as a by product, when for the preparation of valerianic +acid, fusel-oil is distilled with bichromate of potash and sulphuric +acid. It is better prepared in the following manner:--For the +preparation of valerianic acid, 1 part of fusel-oil is mixed gradually +with 3 parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 parts of water added. A solution +of 2-1/4 parts of bichromate of potash, with 4-1/2 parts of water, is +heated in a tubulated retort, and into this fluid the former mixture is +gradually poured, so that the ebullition is not too rapid. The +distillate is saturated with carbonate of soda, and warmed, when a +solution of 3 parts of crystallized carbonate of soda, 2 parts of strong +sulphuric acid, diluted with an equal quantity of water, are added. The +valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum. + +One part, by weight, of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal +weight of sulphuric acid. The cold solution is added to 1-1/4 parts of +the above valerianic acid; the mixture is warmed for some minutes (not +too long or too much) in a water-bath, and then mixed with a little +water, by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates, +which is washed with water and carbonate of soda. For use as an essence +of apples, one part of this valerianate of amyloxide is dissolved in 6 +or 8 parts of alcohol. + + * * * * * + +VOLATILE OIL OF GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS. + +BY W. BASTICK. + + +The chemical history of this oil is one of great importance and +interest, affording, as it does, one of the examples where the progress +of modern chemistry has succeeded in producing artificially a complex +organic body, previously only known as the result of vital force. + +This volatile oil is obtained from the winter-green, an American shrub +of the heath family, by distillation. When this plant is distilled, at +first an oil passes over which consists of C_{10}H_{8}, but when the +temperature reaches 464 deg. Fahr., a pure oil distils into the receiver. +Therefore the essential oil of this plant, like many others, consists of +two portions--one a hydro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated compound; +this latter is the chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so +much chemical interest, from the fact that it has been artificially +prepared. + +It is termed, when thus prepared, the spiroylate of the oxide of methyl, +and is obtained when two parts of wood spirit, one and a half parts of +spiroylic acid, and one part of sulphuric acid are distilled together. +It is a colorless liquid, of an agreeable aromatic odor and taste; it +dissolves slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether and +alcohol; it boils between 411 deg. and 435 deg. Fahr., and has a specific +gravity of 1.173. This compound expels carbonic acid from its +combinations, and forms a series of salts, which contain one atom of +base and one atom of spiroylate of the oxide of methyl. It behaves +therefore as a conjugate acid. Its formula is C_{14}H_{5}O_{5} + +C_{2}H_{3}O. + +The spiroylic acid may be separated from the natural oil by treating it +with a concentrated solution of caustic potash at a temperature of 113 deg. +Fahr., when wood spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution +contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with +sulphuric acid, the spiroylic acid separates and subsides in the fluid. + +Spiroylic acid is also formed by the oxidation of spiroyligenic acid, +and when saligenin, salicin, courmacin, or indigo, is heated with +caustic potash. + + * * * * * + +ON THE APPLICATION OF ORGANIC CHEMISTRY TO PERFUMERY. + +BY DR. A.W. HOFMANN, + +_Professor to the Royal College of Chemistry, London_. + + +Cahours' excellent researches concerning the essential oil of +_Gaultheria procumbens_ (a North American plant of the natural order of +the Ericinae of Jussieu), which admits of so many applications in +perfumery,[I] have opened a new field in this branch of industry. The +introduction of this oil among compound ethers must necessarily direct +the attention of perfumers[J] towards this important branch of +compounds, the number of which is daily increasing by the labors of +those who apply themselves to organic chemistry. The striking similarity +of the smell of these ethers to that of fruit had not escaped the +observation of chemistry; however, it was reserved to practical men to +discover by which choice and combinations it might be possible to +imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety, that makes it +probable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural combination +identical to that produced by art; so much so, as to enable the chemist +to produce from fruits the said combinations, provided he could have at +his disposal a sufficient quantity to operate upon. The manufacture of +artificial aromatic oils for the purpose of perfumery[K] is, of course, +a recent branch of industry; nevertheless, it has already fallen into +the hands of several distillers, who produce sufficient quantity to +supply the trade; a fact, which has not escaped the observation of the +Jury at the London Exhibition. In visiting the stalls of English and +French perfumers at the Crystal Palace, we found a great variety of +these chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at the same time +practically illustrated by confectionery flavored by them. However, as +most of the samples of the oils sent to the Exhibition were but small, I +was prevented, in many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. +The largest samples were those of a compound labelled "pear-oil," which, +by analysis, I discovered to be an alcoholic solution of pure acetate of +amyloxide. Not having sufficient quantity to purify it for combustion, I +dissolved it with potash, by which free fusel-oil was separated, and +determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver salt. + + 0.3080 gram. of silver salt = 0.1997 gram. of silver. + +The per centage of silver in acetate of silver is, according to + + Theory, 64.68 + Experiment, 64.55 + +The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of preparing +it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part fusel-oil, and two +parts of acetate of potash, had a striking smell of fruit, but it +acquired the pleasant flavor of the jargonelle pear only after having +been diluted with six times its volume of spirit of wine. + +Upon further inquiry I learned that considerable quantities of this oil +are manufactured by some distillers,--from fifteen to twenty pounds +weekly,--and sold to confectioners, who employ it chiefly in flavoring +pear-drops, which are nothing else but barley-sugar, flavored with this +oil. + +I found, besides the pear-oil, also an _apple-oil_, which, according to +my analysis, is nothing but valerianate of amyloxide. Every one must +recollect the insupportable smell of rotten apples which fills the +laboratory whilst making valerianic acid. By operating upon this raw +distillate produced with diluted potash, valerianic acid is removed, and +an ether remains behind, which, diluted in five or six times its volume +of spirits of wine, is possessed of the most pleasant flavor of apples. + +The essential oil[L] most abundant in the Exhibition was the pine-apple +oil, which, as you well know, is nothing else but the butyrate of +ethyloxide. Even in this combination, like in the former, the pleasant +flavor or scent is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol. The +butyric ether which is employed in Germany to flavor bad rum, is +employed in England to flavor an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale. +For this purpose they generally do not employ pure butyric acid, but a +product obtained by saponification of butter, and subsequent +distillation of the soap with concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol; +which product contains, besides the butyric ether, other ethers, but +nevertheless can be used for flavoring spirits. The sample I analyzed +was purer, and appeared to have been made with pure butyric ether. + +Decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt, it gave + +0.4404 gram. of silver salt = 0.2437 gram. of silver. + +The per centage of silver in the butyrate of silver is according to + +Theory, 55.38 +Experiment, 55.33 + +Both English and French exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac-oil +and grape-oil, which are employed to flavor the common sorts of brandy. +As these samples were very small, I was prevented from making an +accurate analysis. However, I am certain that the grape-oil is a +combination of amyl, diluted with much alcohol; since, when acted upon +with concentrated sulphuric acid, and the oil freed from alcohol by +washing it with water, it gave amylsulphuric acid, which was identified +by the analysis of the salt of barytes. + +1.2690 gram. of amylsulphate of barytes gave 0.5825 gram. of sulphate of +barytes. This corresponds to 45.82 per cent. of sulphate of barytes. + +Amylsulphate of barytes, crystallized with two equivalents of water, +contains, according to the analysis of Cahours and Kekule, 45.95 per +cent. of sulphate of barytes. It is curious to find here a body, which, +on account of its noxious smell, is removed with great care from +spirituous liquors, to be applied under a different form for the purpose +of imparting to them a pleasant flavor. + +I must needs here also mention the artificial oil of bitter almonds. +When Mitscherlich, in the year 1834, discovered the nitrobenzol, he +would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the +purpose of perfumery, and, after twenty years, appear in fine labelled +samples at the London Exhibition. It is true that, even at the time of +the discovery of nitrobenzol, he pointed out the striking similarity of +its smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds. However, at that time, +the only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases +and the distillation of benzoic acid, consequently the enormity of its +price banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of +bitter almonds. However, in the year 1845, I succeeded by means of the +anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common +coal-tar oil; and, in the year 1849, C.B. Mansfield proved, by careful +experiments, that benzol can be won without difficulty in great +quantity from coal-tar oil. In his essay, which contains many +interesting details about the practical use of benzol, he speaks +likewise of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented +nitrobenzol in great quantity. The Exhibition has proved that his +observation has not been left unnoticed by the perfumers. Among French +perfumeries we have found, under the name of artificial oil of bitter +almonds, and under the still more poetical name of "essence de mirbane," +several samples of essential oils, which are no more nor less than +nitrobenzol. I was not able to obtain accurate details about the extent +of this branch of manufacture, which seems to be of some importance. In +London, this article is manufactured with success. The apparatus +employed is that of Mansfield, which is very simple. It consists of a +large glass worm, the upper extremity of which divides in two branches +or tubes, which are provided with funnels. Through one of these funnels +passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid; the other is destined as a +receiver of benzol, which, for this purpose, requires not to be quite +pure; at the angle from where the two tubes branch out, the two bodies +meet together, and instantly the chemical combination takes place, which +cools sufficiently by passing through the glass worm. The product is +afterwards washed with water, and some diluted solution of carbonate of +soda; it is then ready for use. Notwithstanding the great physical +similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of bitter almonds, there is yet a +slight _difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced +nose_.[M] However, nitrobenzol is very useful in scenting soap, and +might be employed with great advantage by confectioners and cooks, +particularly on account of its safety, being entirely free from prussic +acid. + +There were, besides the above, several other artificial oils; they all, +however, were more or less complicated, and in so small quantities, that +it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature, and it was doubtful +whether they had the same origin as the former. + +The application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new; it is +probable that the study of all the ethers or ethereal combinations +already known, and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily +discovering, will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications. +The capryl-ethers lately discovered by Bouis are remarkable for their +aromatic smells (the acetate of capryloxide is possessed of the most +intense and pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the +manufacturers of perfumes.--_Annalen der Chemie._ + + * * * * * + +CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE "JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS."[N] + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY. + + +SIR, + +When such periodicals as "Household Words" and the "Family Herald" +contain scientific matters, treated in a manner to popularize science, +all real lovers of philosophy must feel gratified; a little fiction, a +little metaphor, is expected, and is accepted with the good intention +with which it is given, in such popular prints; but when the "Journal of +the Society of Arts" reprints quotations from such sources, without +modifying or correcting their expressions, it conveys to its readers a +tissue of fiction rather too flimsy to bear a truthful analysis.[O] + +In the article on Chemistry and Perfumery, in No. 47, you quote that +"some of the most delicate perfumes are now made by chemical artifice, +and not, as of old, by distilling them from flowers." Now, sir, this +statement conveys to the public a very erroneous idea; because the +substances afterwards spoken of are named essences of fruit, and not +essences of flowers, and the essences of fruits named in your article +never are, and never can be, used in perfumery. This assertion is based +on practical experience. The artificial essences of fruits are ethers: +when poured upon a handkerchief, and held up to the nose, they act, as +is well known, like chloroform. Dare a perfumer sell a bottle of such a +preparation to an "unprotected female?" + +Again, you quote that "the drainings of cow-houses are the main source +to which the manufacturer applies for the production of his most +delicate and admired perfumes." + +Shade of Munchausen! must I refute this by calling your attention to the +fact that in the south of France more than 80,000 persons are employed, +directly and indirectly, in the cultivation of flowers, and in the +extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers? that Italy +cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as +extensive as the whole of some English counties? that tracts of +flower-farms exist in the Balkan, in Turkey, more extensive than the +whole of Yorkshire? Our own flower-farms at Mitcham, in Surrey, need not +be mentioned in comparison, although important. These, sir, are the main +sources of perfumes. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and in +the West Indies; but enough has been said, I hope, to refute the +cow-house story. This story is founded on the fact that Benzoic acid +_can be_ obtained from the draining of stables, and that Benzoic acid +has rather a pleasant odor. Some of the largest wholesale perfumers use +five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic +acid. The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared +for commercial purposes; as also the fruit essences. Those of your +readers interested in what _really is used_ in perfumery, are referred +to the last six numbers of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Practical +Chemistry," article "Perfumery." + + Your obedient servant, + SEPTIMUS PIESSE. + + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[P] + +SIR, + +The discussion about chemistry and perfumery, in reality amounts to +this: Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the term "perfumery" to such things +as Eau de Cologne, &c.; perfumed soaps, groceries, &c., he does not +appear to class as "perfumery." Now the artificial scents are as yet +chiefly used for the latter substances, which in common language, and, I +should say, in a perfumer's nomenclature also, would be included in +perfumery. The authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to +be found in a little French work called, I believe, "La Chimie de +l'Odorat" in which a full description is given of the collection of +fresh urine and its application to this purpose. I need scarcely say, +that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous +principle. + + Your obedient servant, + A PERFUMER. + +[When benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes, it is _free +from the fragrant volatile oil_ which accompanies it when prepared by +sublimation from the resin, and to which oil the acid of commerce owes +its peculiar odor. This fact completely nullifies the above +assertion.--SEPTIMUS PIESSE.] + + +CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[Q] + + +Sir, + +If the author of the Letter on Chemistry and Perfumery, published in No. +50 of your Journal, and intended as a reply to mine--though none was +needed--which appeared in No. 49, really be a perfumer, as his signature +implies, he would know that I could not, though ever so inclined, +"confine the term perfumery" to various odoriferous substances, and +exclude scented soaps; because he would be aware that one-third of the +returns of every manufacturing perfumer is derived from perfumed soap. I +do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery, "groceries, +&c.," the _et caetera_ meaning, I presume, "confectionery," because +perfumery has to do with one of the senses, SMELLING, while +groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another, TASTE; and had +not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and +manufactures would have defined them: I therefore repeat, that the +artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery, as stated in +No. 47, from the quoted authorities. If any man can deny this assertion, +let him now do so, "or forever after hold his peace," at least upon +this subject. The "Journal of the Society of Arts" is not a medium of +mere controversy. If a statement be made in error, let truth correct it, +which, if gain-sayed, it should be done, not under the veil of an +anonymous correspondent, but with a name to support the assertion. +Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the political +alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller. + + I am, sir, yours faithfully, + SEPTIMUS PIESSE. + 42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road. + +[If the word _flavor_ had been used by the various authors who have +written upon this subject, in place of the word _perfume_, the +dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented: the word +perfume, applied to pear-oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the +general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer, +that these substances are used by perfumers, who not only do not, but +cannot use them in their trade. + +But for _flavoring_ nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or +oils as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in +accordance with assertions of Hoffman, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. +However, the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost +anything by this misapplication of a trade term.--SEPTIMUS +PIESSE.] + + * * * * * + +OTTOS FROM PLANTS. + +QUANTITIES OF OTTOS, OTHERWISE ESSENTIAL OILS, YIELDED BY VARIOUS +PLANTS. + + + Pounds Of otto. +Orange-peel, 10 yield about 1 oz. +Dry marjoram herb, 20 " 3 oz. +Fresh " " 100 " 3 oz. + " Peppermint, 100 " 3 to 4 oz. +Dry " 25 " 3 to 4 oz. + " Origanum, 25 " 2 to 3 oz. + " Thyme, 20 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. + " Calamus, 25 " 3 to 4 oz. +Anise-seed, 25 " 9 to 12 oz. +Caraway, 25 " 16 oz. +Cloves, 1 " 2-1/2 oz. +Cinnamon, 25 " 3 oz. +Cassia, 25 " 3 oz. +Cedar-wood, 28 " 4 oz. +Mace, 2 " 3 oz. +Nutmegs, 2 " 3 to 4 oz. +Fresh balm herb, 60 " 1 to 1-1/2 oz. +Cake of bitter almond, 14 " 1 oz. +Sweet flag root, 112 " 16 oz. +Geranium leaves, 112 " 2 oz. +Lavender flowers, 112 " 30 to 32 oz. +Myrtle leaves, 112 " 5 oz. +Patchouly herb, 112 " 28 oz. +Province rose blossom, 112 " 1-1/2 to 2 drachms. +Rhodium-wood, 112 " 3 to 4 oz. +Santal-wood, 112 " 30 oz. +Vitivert or kus-kus-root, 112 " 15 oz. + + * * * * * + +WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + + +FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH ENGLISH. + +_____________________________________________________________ +| |Imperial | |Troy |Kilo- |Lbs. | +|Litres. |Gallons. |Grammes. |Grains. |grammes. |Avoird. | +| 1, | 0.22010 | 1, | 15.434 | 1, | 2.20486 | +| 2, | 0.44019 | 2, | 30.868 | 2, | 4.40971 | +| 3, | 0.66029 | 3, | 46.302 | 3, | 6.61457 | +| 4, | 0.88039 | 4, | 61.736 | 4, | 8.81943 | +| 5, | 1.10048 | 5, | 77.170 | 5, | 11.02429 | +| 6, | 1.32058 | 6, | 92.604 | 6, | 13.22914 | +| 7, | 1.54068 | 7, | 108.038 | 7, | 15.43400 | +| 8, | 1.76077 | 8, | 123.472 | 8, | 17.63886 | +| 9, | 1.98087 | 9, | 138.906 | 9, | 19.84371 | +------------------------------------------------------------- + + +ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED WITH FRENCH. + +_____________________________________________________________ +|Imp. | |Troy | |Lbs. |Kilo- | +|Gallons. |Litres. |Grains. |Grammes. |Avoird. |grammes. | +| 1, | 4.54346 | 1, | 0.06479 | 1, | 0.45354 | +| 2, | 9.08692 | 2, | 0.12958 | 2, | 0.90709 | +| 3, | 13.63038 | 3, | 0.19438 | 3, | 1.36063 | +| 4, | 18.17384 | 4, | 0.25917 | 4, | 1.81418 | +| 5, | 22.71730 | 5, | 0.32396 | 5, | 2.26772 | +| 6, | 27.26076 | 6, | 0.38875 | 6, | 2.72126 | +| 7, | 31.80422 | 7, | 0.45354 | 7, | 3.17481 | +| 8, | 36.34768 | 8, | 0.51834 | 8, | 3.62835 | +| 9, | 40.89114 | 9, | 0.58313 | 9, | 4.08190 | +------------------------------------------------------------- + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] Brother of the Author. + +[B] See Appendix, "Benzoic Acid." + +[C] See "Incense." + +[D] The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last tariff, +8_d._ per flacon of 4 oz., or 20_s._ per gallon. + +[E] Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a minute +in one pint, imperial, of distilled water. + +[F] The imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers. + +[G] Annals of Pharmacy, vol. ii, pp. 168, 169. + +[H] The deposit is nearly insoluble in water, is acid and astringent to +the taste, gives an acid reaction with litmus. Spirit of wine dissolves +out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous +substance, having a rancid smell. Ether leaves a pleasant-smelling +resin, somewhat resembling camphor. The remainder is nearly insoluble in +liq. ammoniae, liq. potassae, more soluble in nitric acid, and well +deserves to be further examined. + +[I] Qy. Confectionery? + +[J] Qy. Confectioners? + +[K] Confectionery. + +[L] The writer means ether! + +[M] See "Almond." + +[N] No. 49. + +[O] If our Correspondent had carefully read the article he so fiercely +attacks, he would have seen that the authorities were Dr. Lyon +Playfair's Lecture, and Professsor Fehling, in the "Wurtemberg Journal +of Industry."--ED. + +[P] No. 50. + +[Q] No. 52. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Art of Perfumery, by G. W. 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