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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One
+
+Author: Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16224]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net, from
+images generously made available by gallica (Bibliothèque
+nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+
+Shakespeare Press.
+
+[Illustration: T. F. DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+Engraved by James Thomson from the
+Original Painting by T. Phillips Esq. R.A.
+
+London. Published June 1829 by R. Jennings, Poultry.]
+
+
+
+
+A
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+Antiquarian
+AND
+PICTURESQUE TOUR
+IN
+FRANCE AND GERMANY.
+
+
+BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT.
+
+
+SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LONDON:
+PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.
+1829.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE REVEREND JOHN LODGE, M.A.
+FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, AND
+LIBRARIAN TO THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND,
+
+
+Most grateful it is to me, at all times, to bear in remembrance those
+pleasant discussions in which we were wont so frequently to indulge,
+relating to the LIBRARIES upon the Continent:--but more than ordinarily
+gratifying to me was _that_ moment, when you told me, that, on crossing the
+Rhine, you took the third volume of my Tour under your arm, and on reaching
+the Monasteries of Mölk and Göttwic, gave an off-hand translation to the
+venerable Benedictine Inmates of what I had recorded concerning their MSS.
+and Printed Books, and their hospitable reception of the Author. I
+studiously concealed from You, at the time, the whole of the gratification
+which that intelligence imparted; resolving however that, should this work
+be deemed worthy of a second edition, to dedicate that republication to
+YOURSELF. Accordingly, it now comes forth in its present form, much
+enhanced, in the estimation of its Author, by the respectability of the
+name prefixed to this Dedication; and wishing you many years enjoyment of
+the honourable public situation with which you have been recently, and so
+deservedly, invested, allow me to subscribe myself,
+
+
+Your affectionate
+and obliged Friend,
+
+T.F. DIBDIN.
+
+Wyndham Place,
+June 30, 1829.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+_Passage to Dieppe_
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. _Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St. Remy. Divine
+Worship. Military Mass_
+
+LETTER III.
+
+_Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners and Customs.
+Boulevards_
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. _Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street-Scenery_
+
+LETTER V.
+
+_Ecclesiastical Architecture. Cathedral. Monuments. Religious Ceremonies.
+The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Vincent, St. Vivien,
+St. Gervais, and St. Paul_
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+_Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d'Orleans. (Jeanne d'Arc).
+Basso-Rilievo of the Champ de Drap d'Or. Palace and Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+ROUEN. _The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec. Eaux de Robec
+et d'Aubette. Mont Ste. Catherine. Hospices--Générale et d'Humanité_,
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Early Typography at Rouen. Modern Printers. Chap Books. Booksellers. Book
+Collectors_
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Departure from Rouen. St. George de Boscherville. Duclair. Marivaux. The
+Abbey of Jumieges. Arrival at Caudebec_,
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Montmorenci Castle. Havre de
+Grace_
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen_
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. _Soil. Society. Education. A Duel. Old houses. The Abbey of St.
+Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbé de la Sainte Trinité. Other
+Public Edifices_
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+CAEN. _Literary Society. Abbé de la Rue. Messrs. Pierre-Aimé. Lair and
+Lamouroux. Medal of Malherbe. Booksellers. Memoir of the late M. Moysant,
+Public Librarian. Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Deacons. Crypt of the
+Cathedral_
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apothecary and Book-Vendor. Visit
+to the Bishop. The Chapter Library. Description of the Bayeux Tapestry.
+Trade and Manufacture_
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. The Cathedral of Coutances. Environs.
+Aqueduct. Market-Day. Public Library. Establishment for the Clergy_
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town and Castle
+of_ VIRE
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+VIRE. _Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la Renaudiere. Olivier
+Basselin. M. Séguin. The Public Library_
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+_Departure from Vire. Condé. Pont Ouilly. Arrival at_ FALAISE. _Hotel of
+the Grand Turc. Castle of Falaise. Bibliomaniacal Interview_
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Mons. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinité, Comte de la Fresnaye. Guibray
+Church. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian of
+Falaise. Printing Offices_
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into Paris_
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+Portrait of the Author
+Fille de Chambre, Caen
+Portrait of the Abbé de la Rue
+
+VOL. II.
+
+Anne of Brittany
+Medal of Louis XII
+Pisani
+Denon
+Comte de Brienne
+Stone Pulpit, Strasbourg Cathedral
+
+VOL. III.
+
+Fille de Chambre, Manheim
+Monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra
+Prater, Vienna
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS.
+                                                       Vol.     Page.
+
+Artaria, Dom. Manheim                                  iii.      470
+Barbier, Antoine Alexandre; Paris                       ii.      204
+Bartsch, Adam de; Vienna                               iii.      394
+Beyschlag, Recteur; Augsbourg                          iii.      104
+Brial, Dom; Paris                                       ii.      254
+Brunet, Libraire; Paris                                 ii.      235
+Bure, De, Freres; Paris                                 ii.      220
+Chateaugiron, Marquis de; Paris                          i.  xxxviii
+Dannecker; Stuttgart                                   iii.       54
+Denon; Paris                                            ii.      293
+Gaertner, Corbinian; Salzburg                          iii.      201
+Gail; Paris                                             ii.      259
+Hartenschneider, Udalricus; Chremsminster
+  Monastery                                            iii.      229
+Henri II.                                               ii.      151
+Hess, C.E.; Munich                                     iii.      165
+Lamouroux; Caen                                          i.      137
+Lançon, Durand de; Paris                                 i.  xxxviii
+Langevin; Falaise                                        i.      341
+Langlès, L.; Paris                                      ii.      268
+Larenaudiere, De; Vire                                   i.      309
+Lebret, F.C.; Stuttgart                                iii.       56
+May, Jean Gottlob; Augsbourg                           iii.      104
+Millin, A.L.; Paris                                     ii.      264
+Pallas, Joachim; Mölk Monastery                        iii.      254
+Peignot, Gabriel; Dijon                                  i.    xxvii
+Poitiers, Diane de                                      ii.      151
+Renouard, Ant. Aug.; Paris                              ii.      227
+Schlichtegroll, Frederic; Munich                       iii.      161
+Schweighæuser, Fils; Strasbourg                         ii.      426
+Van Praet; Paris                                        ii.      278
+Veesenmeyer, G.; Ulm                                   iii.       71
+Willemin; Paris                                         ii.      320
+Young,.T.; Vienna                                      iii.      390
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+If I had chosen to introduce myself to the greatest possible advantage to
+the reader, in this Preface to a Second Edition of the "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian, and Picturesque Tour_," I could not have done better than have
+borrowed the language of those Foreigners, who, by a translation of the
+Work (however occasionally vituperative their criticisms) have, in fact,
+conferred an honour upon its Author. In the midst of censure, sometimes
+dictated by spite, and sometimes sharpened by acrimony of feeling, it were
+in my power to select passages of commendation, which would not less
+surprise the Reader than they have done myself: while the history of this
+performance may be said to exhibit the singular phenomenon, of a traveller,
+usually lauding the countries through which he passes, receiving in return
+the reluctant approbation of those whose institutions, manners, and
+customs, have been praised by him. It is admitted, by the most sedulous and
+systematic of my opponents--M. CRAPELET--that "considering the quantity and
+quality of the ornaments and engravings of this Tour, one is surprised that
+its cost is so moderate."[1]
+
+"Few books (says the Bibliographer of Dijon) have been executed with
+greater luxury. It is said that the expenses of printing and engraving
+amounted to 6000 l.--to nearly 140,000 franks of our money. It must be
+admitted that England is the only country in which such an undertaking
+could be carried into effect. Who in France would dare to risk such a
+sum--especially for three, volumes in octavo? He would be ruined, if he
+did."[2] I quote these passages simply to shew under what extraordinary
+obliquity of feeling those gentlemen must have set down to the task of
+translation and abuse--of THAT VERY WORK, which is here admitted to contain
+such splendid representations of the "bibliographical, antiquarian, and
+picturesque" beauties of their country.
+
+A brief account of this foreign _travail_ may be acceptable to the curious
+in literary history. MONS. LICQUET, the successor of M. Gourdin, as Chief
+Librarian to the Public Library at Rouen, led the way in the work of
+warfare. He translated the ninth Letter relating to that Public Library; of
+which translation especial mention is made at p. 99, post. This version was
+printed in 1821, for private, distribution; and only 100 copies were struck
+off. M. Crapelet, in whose office it was printed, felt the embers of
+discontent rekindled in his bosom as it passed through his press; and in
+the following year HE also stepped forward to discharge an arrow at the
+Traveller. Like his predecessor, he printed but a limited number; and as I
+have more particularly remarked upon the spirit of that version by way of
+"Introduction" to the original letter, in vol. ii. 209, &c. I shall not
+waste the time of the Reader by any notice of it in the present place.
+These two partial translators united their forces, about two years
+afterwards, and published the whole of the Tour, as it related to FRANCE,
+in four octavo volumes, in 1825. The ordinary copies were sold for 48
+francs, the large paper for 112 francs per copy. The wood-cuts only were
+republished by them. Of this conjoint, and more enlarged production,
+presently.
+
+Encouraged by the examples of Messrs. Licquet and Crapelet, a Bookbinder of
+the name of LESNÉ (whose poem upon his "Craft," published in 1820, had been
+copiously quoted and _commended_ by me in the previous edition) chose to
+plant his foot within this arena of controversy; and to address a letter to
+me; to which his model, M. Crapelet, was too happy to give circulation
+through the medium of his press.[3] To that letter the following metrical
+lines are prefixed; which the Reader would scarcely forgive me if I failed
+to amuse him by their introduction in this place. "_Lesné, Relieur
+Français, à Mons. T.F. Dibdin, Ministre de la Religion, &c._"
+
+  Avec un ris moqueur, je crois vous voir d'ici,
+  Dédaigneusement dire: Eh, que veut celui-ci?
+  Qu'ai-je donc de commun avec un vil artiste?
+  Un ouvrier français, un _Bibliopégiste_?
+  Ose-t-on ravaler un Ministre à ce point?
+  Que me veut ce _Lesné_? Je ne le connais point.
+    Je crois me souvenir qu'à mon voyage en France,
+  Avec ses pauvres vers je nouai connaissance.
+  Mais c'est si peu de chose un poète à Paris!
+    Savez-vous bien, Monsieur, pourquoi je vous écris?
+  C'est que je crois avoir le droit de vous écrire.
+  Fussiez-vous cent fois plus qu'on ne saurait le dire,
+  Je vois dans un Ministre un homme tel que moi;
+  Devant Dieu je crois même être l'égal d'un roi.
+
+The Letter however is in prose, with some very few exceptions; and it is
+just possible that the indulgent Reader may endure a specimen or two of the
+prose of M. Lesné, as readily as he has that of his poetry. These specimens
+are equally delectable, of their kind. Immediately after the preceding
+poetical burst, the French Bibliopegist continues thus:
+
+    D'après cet exorde, vous pensez sans doute que, bien convaincu de ma
+    dignité d'homme, je me crois en droit de vous dire franchement ma
+    façon de penser; je vous la dirai, Monsieur. Si vous dirigiez un
+    journal bibliographique; que vous fissiez, en un mot, le métier de
+    journaliste, je serai peu surpris de voir dans votre Trentième Lettre,
+    une foule de choses hasardées, de mauvais calembourgs, de
+    grossièretés, que nous ne rencontrons même pas chez nos journalistes
+    du dernier ordre, en ce qu'ils savent mieux leur monde, et que s'ils
+    lancent une epigramme, fût-elle fausse, elle est au moins finement
+    tournée. Mais vous êtes ANGLAIS, et par cela seul dispensé sans doute
+    de cette politesse qui distingue si heureusement notre nation de la
+    vôtre, et que vos compatriotes n'acquièrent pour la plupart qu'après
+    un long séjour en France." p. 6.
+
+Towards the latter part of this most formidable "Tentamen Criticum," the
+irritable author breaks out thus--"C'est une maladie Française de vouloir
+toujours imiter les Anglais; ceux-ci, à leur tour, commencent à en être
+atteints." p. 19. A little farther it is thus: "Enfin c'est _en imitant_
+qu'on reussit presque toujours mal; vous en êtes encore, une preuve
+évidente. J'ai vu en beaucoup d'endroits de votre Lettre, que vous avez
+voulu imiter _Sterne_;[4] qu'est-il arrivé? Vous êtes resté au-dessous de
+lui, comme tous les Imitateurs de nôtre bon La Fontaine sont restés en deçà
+de l'immortel Fabuliste." p. 20. But most especially does the sensitive M.
+Lesné betray his surprise and apprehension, on a gratuitous
+supposition--thrown out by me, by way of pleasantry--that "Mr. Charles
+Lewis was going over to Paris, to establish there a modern School of
+Bookbinding." M. Lesné thus wrathfully dilates upon this supposition:
+
+    "Je me garderai bien de passer sous silence la dernière partie de
+    votre Lettre; _un bruit assez étrange est venu jusqu'à vous_; et
+    Charles Lewis doit vous quitter pour quelque temps pour établir en
+    France une école de reliure d'apres les principes du gôut anglais;
+    mais vous croyez, dites-vous, que ce projet est sûrement chimérique,
+    ou que, si on le tentait, il serait de courte durée.
+
+    Pour cette fois, Monsieur, votre pronostic serait très juste; cette
+    demarche serait une folie: il faudrait s'abuser sur l'engouement des
+    amateurs français, et ceux qui sont atteints de cette maladie ne sont
+    pas en assez grand nombre pour soutenir un pareil établissement. Oui,
+    l'on aime votre genre de reliure; mais on aime les reliures, façon
+    anglaise, faites par les Français. Pensez-vous done, ou Charles Lewis
+    pense-t-il, qu'il n'y ait plus d'esprit national en France?
+
+      Allez, le sang Française coule encore dans nos veines;
+      Nous pourrons éprouver des malheurs et des peines,
+      Que nous devrons peut être à vous autres Anglais;
+      Mais nous voulons rester, nous resterons, Français!
+
+    Ainsi, que Charles Lewis ne se dérange pas; qu'il cesse, s'il les a
+    commencés, les préparatifs de sa descente; qu'il ne prive pas ses
+    compatriotes d'un artiste soi-disant inimitable. Nous en avons ici qui
+    le valent, et qui se feront un plaisir de perpéteur parmi nous le bon
+    gôut, l'élégance, et la noble simplicité. p. 25.[5]
+
+So much for M. Lesne. I have briefly noticed M. Peignot, the Bibliographer
+of Dijon. That worthy wight has made the versions of my Ninth and Thirtieth
+Letters (First Edition) by M.M. Licquet and Crapelet, the substratum of his
+first brochure entitled _Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques_,
+_Paris_, 1822: it being a supplement to his previous Work of _Curiosités
+Bibliographiques_."[6] It is not always agreeable for an Author to have his
+Works reflected through the medium of a translation; especially where the
+Translator suffers a portion, however small, of his _own_ atrabiliousness,
+to be mixed up with the work translated: nor is it always safe for a third
+person to judge of the merits of the original through such a medium. Much
+allowance must therefore be made for M. Peignot; who, to say the truth, at
+the conclusion of his labours, seems to think that he has waded through a
+great deal of _dirt_ of some kind or other, which might have been better
+avoided; and that, in consequence, some general declaration, by way of
+_wiping, off_ a portion of the adhering mud, is due to the original Author.
+Accordingly, at the end of his analysis of M. Licquet's version, (which
+forms the second Letter in the brochure) he does me the honour to devote
+seven pages to the notice of my humble lucubrations:--and he prefaces this
+"_Notice des Ouvrages de M. Dibdin"_, by the following very handsome
+tribute to their worth:
+
+    Si, dans les deux Lettres où nous avons rendu compte des traductions
+    partielles du voyage de M.D., nous avons partagé l'opinion des deux
+    estimable traducteurs, sur quelques erreurs et quelques inconvenances
+    échappées a l'auteur anglais, nous sommes bien éloigné d'envelopper
+    dans le même blame, tout ce qui est sorté de sa plume; car il y auroit
+    injustice a lui refuser des connaissances très étendues en histoire
+    littéraire, et en bibliographie: nous le disons franchement, il
+    faudroit fermer les yeux à la lumière, ou être d'une partialité
+    revoltante, pour ne pas convenir que, juste appréciateur de tous les
+    trésors bibliographiques qu'il a le bonheur d'avoir sous la main, M.
+    Dibdin en a fait connoitre en détail toute la richesse dans de
+    nombreux d'ouvrages, ou très souvent le luxe d'érudition se trouve en
+    harmonie avec le luxe typographique qu'il y a étalé.
+
+At the risk of incurring the imputation of vanity, I annex the preceding
+extract; because I am persuaded that the candid Reader will appreciate it
+in its proper light. I might, had I chosen to do so, have lengthened the
+extract by a yet more complimentary passage: but enough of M. Peignot--who,
+so far from suffering ill will or acerbity to predominate over a kind
+disposition, hath been pleased, since his publication, to write to me a
+very courteous Letter,[7] and to solicit a "continuance of my favours."
+
+Agreeably to the intimation expressed in a preceding page, I am now, in due
+order, to notice the labours of my translators M.M. LICQUET and CRAPELET.
+Their united version appeared in 1825, in four octavo volumes, of which the
+small paper was but indifferently well printed.[8] The preface to the first
+two volumes is by M. Licquet: and it is not divested of point and merit. It
+begins by attacking the _Quarterly Review_, (June 1821, p. 147.) for its
+severity of animadversion on the supposed listlessness and want of
+curiosity of the French in exploring the architectural antiquities of their
+country; and that, in consequence of such supineness, the English,
+considering them as their own property, have described them accordingly.
+"The decision (says the French translator) is severe; happily it is without
+foundation." After having devoted several pages to observations by way of
+reply to that critical Journal, M. Licquet continues thus:--unless I have
+unintentionally misrepresented him.
+
+    The Englishman who travels in Normandy, meets, at every step, with
+    reminiscences of his kings, his ancestors, his institutions, and his
+    customs. Churches yet standing, after the lapse of seven centuries;
+    majestic ruins; tombs--even to the very sound of the clock--all unite
+    in affecting, here, the heart of a British subject: every thing seems
+    to tell him that, in former times, HERE was his country; here the
+    residence of his sovereigns; and here the cradle of his manners. This
+    was more than sufficient to enflame the lively imagination of Mr. D.
+    and to decide him to visit, in person, a country already explored by a
+    great number of his countrymen; but he conceived that his narrative
+    should embody other topics than those which ordinarily appeared in the
+    text of his predecessors.
+
+    "His work then is not only a description of castles, towns, churches,
+    public monuments of every kind:--it is not only a representation of
+    the general aspect of the country, as to its picturesque
+    appearances--but it is an extended, minute, though occasionally
+    inexact, account of public and private libraries; with reflections
+    upon certain customs of the country, and upon the character of those
+    who inhabit it. It is in short the personal history of the author,
+    throughout the whole length of his journey. Not the smallest incident,
+    however indifferent, but what has a place in the letters of the
+    Bibliographer. Thus, he mentions every Inn where he stops: recommends
+    or scolds the landlord--according to his civility or exaction. Has the
+    author passed a bad night? the reader is sure to know it on the
+    following morning. On the other hand, has he had a good night's rest
+    in a comfortable bed? [dans un lit _comfortable_?] We are as sure to
+    know this also, as soon as he awakes:--and thus far we are relieved
+    from anxiety about the health of the traveller. Cold and heat--fine
+    weather and bad weather--every variation of atmosphere is scrupulously
+    recorded.
+
+What immediately follows, is unworthy of M. Licquet; because it not only
+implies a charge of a heinous description--accusing me of an insidious
+intrusion into domestic circles, a violation of confidence, and a
+systematic derision of persons and things--but because the French
+translator, exercising that sense and shrewdness which usually distinguish
+him, MUST have known that such a charge _could_ not have been founded in
+FACT. He must have known that any gentleman, leaving England with those
+letters which brought me in contact with some of the first circles on the
+Continent, MUST have left it without leaving his character _behind_ him;
+and that such a character could not, in the natural order of things--seen
+even through the sensitive medium of a French critic--have been guilty of
+the grossness and improprieties imputed to me by M. Licquet. I treat
+therefore this "damnation in wholesale" with scorn and contempt: and hasten
+to impress the reader with a more favourable opinion of my Norman
+translator. He _will_ have it that
+
+    "the English Traveller's imagination is lively and ardent--and his
+    spirit, that of raillery and lightness. He examines as he runs along;
+    that is to say, he does not give himself time to examine; he examines
+    ill; he deceives himself; and he subjects his readers to be deceived
+    with him. He traverses, at a hard trot, one of the most ancient towns
+    in France; puts his head out of his carriage window--and boldly
+    decides that the town is of the time of Francis I."![9] p. xviij.
+
+There is pleasantry, and perhaps some little truth, in this vein of
+observation; and it had been better, perhaps, for the credit of the good
+taste and gentleman-like feeling of Mons. Licquet, if he had uniformly
+maintained his character in these respects. I have however, in the
+subsequent pages,[10] occasionally grappled with my annotator in proving
+the fallacy, or the want of charity, of many of his animadversions: and the
+reader probably may not be displeased, if, by way of "avant propos," I
+indulge him here with a specimen of them--taken from his preface. M.
+Licquet says, that I "create scenes; arrange a drama; trace characters;
+imagine a dialogue, frequently in French--and in what French--gracious
+God!--in assigning to postilions a ridiculous language, and to men of the
+world the language of postilions." These be sharp words:[11] but what does
+the Reader imagine may be the probable "result" of the English Traveller's
+inadvertencies?... A result, ("gracious Heaven!") very little anticipated
+by the author. Let him ponder well upon the awful language which ensues.
+"What (says M. Licquet) will quickly be the result, with us, of such
+indiscretions as those of which M. Dibdin is guilty? The necessity of
+SHUTTING OUR PORTS, or at least of placing a GUARD UPON OUR LIPS!" There is
+some consolation however left for me, in balancing this tremendous
+denunciation by M. Licquet's eulogy of my good qualities--which a natural
+diffidence impels me to quote in the original words of their author.
+
+    "A Dieu ne plaise, toutefois, que j'accuse ici LE COEUR de M. Dibdin.
+    Je n'ai jamais eu l'honneur de le voir: je ne le connais que par ses
+    ecrits; principalement par son _Splendid Tour_, et je ne balance pas à
+    déclarer que l'auteur doit être doué d'une ame honnête, et de ces
+    qualités fondamentales qui constituent l'homme de bien. Il préfère sa
+    croyance; mais il respecte la croyance des autres; son érudition
+    parait....[12] variée. Son amour pour les antiquités est immense; et
+    par antiquités j'entends ici tout ce qui est _antique_ ou seulement
+    _ancien_, quellesque soient d'ailleurs la nature et la forme des
+    objets." Pref. p. xv. xvij.
+
+Once more; and to conclude with M. Licquet. After these general
+observations upon the _Text_ of the Tour, M. Licquet favours us with the
+following--upon the _Plates_. "These plates (says he) are intended to
+represent some of the principal monuments; the most beautiful landscapes,
+and the most remarkable persons, comprehending even the servants of an inn.
+If _talent_ be sought in these Engravings, it will doubtless be found in
+them; but strangers must not seek for _fidelity_ of representation from
+what is before their eyes. The greater number of the Designs are, in some
+sort, ideal compositions, which, by resembling every thing, resemble
+nothing in particular: and it is worthy of remark that the Artist, in
+imitation of the Author, seems to have thought that he had only to shew
+himself _clever_, without troubling himself to be _faithful_." To this, I
+reply in the very words of M. Licquet himself: "the decision is severe;
+luckily it is unjust." The only portions of the designs of their skilful
+author, which may be taxed with a tendency to extravagance, are the
+_groups_: which, when accompanied by views of landscapes, or of monuments,
+are probably too profusely indulged in; but the _individuals_, constituting
+those groups, belong precisely to the _country_ in which they are
+represented. In the first and second volumes they are _French_; in the
+third they are _Germans_--all over. Will M. Licquet pretend to say that the
+churches, monasteries, streets, and buildings, with which the previous
+Edition of this Tour is so elaborately embellished, have the slightest
+tendency to IMAGINED SCENERY? If he do, his optics must be peculiarly his
+own. I have, in a subsequent page, (p. 34, note) slightly alluded to the
+cost and risk attendant on the Plates; but I may confidently affirm, from
+experience, that two thirds of the expense incurred would have secured the
+same sale at the same price. However, the die is cast; and the voice of
+lamentation is fruitless.
+
+I now come to the consideration of M. Licquet's coadjutor, M. CRAPELET.
+Although the line of conduct pursued by that very singular gentleman be of
+an infinitely more crooked description than that of his Predecessor, yet,
+in this place, I shall observe less respecting it; inasmuch as, in the
+subsequent pages, (pp. 209, 245, 253, 400, &c.) the version and annotations
+of M. Crapelet have been somewhat minutely discussed. Upon the SPIRIT which
+could give rise to such a version, and such annotations, I will here only
+observe, that it very much resembles that of searchers of our
+street-pavements; who, with long nails, scrape out the dirt from the
+interstices of the stones, with the hope of making a discovery of some lost
+treasure which may compensate the toil of perseverance. The love of lucre
+may, or may not, have influenced my Parisian translator; but the love of
+discovery of latent error, and of exposure of venial transgression, has
+undoubtedly, from beginning to end, excited his zeal and perseverance. That
+carping spirit, which shuts its eyes upon what is liberal and kind, and
+withholds its assent to what is honourable and just, it is the
+distinguished lot--and, perhaps, as the translator may imagine, the
+distinguished felicity--of M. Crapelet to possess. Never was greater
+reluctance displayed in admitting even the palpable truths of a text, than
+what is displayed in the notes of M. Crapelet: and whenever a concurring
+sentiment comes from him, it seems to exude like his heart's life-blood.
+Having already answered, in detail, his separate publication confined to my
+30th Letter[13]--(the 8th of the second volume, in _this_ edition) and
+having replied to those animadversions which appear in his translation of
+the whole of the second volume, in this edition--it remains here only to
+consign the Translator to the careful and impartial consideration of the
+Reader, who, it is requested, may be umpire between both parties. Not to
+admit that the text of this Edition is in many places improved, from the
+suggestions of my Translators, by corrections of "Names of Persons, Places,
+and Things," would be to betray a stubbornness or obtuseness of feeling
+which certainly does not enter into the composition of its author.
+
+I now turn, not without some little anxiety, yet not wholly divested of the
+hope of a favourable issue, to the character and object of the Edition HERE
+presented to the Public. It will be evident, at first glance, that it is
+greatly "shorn of its beams" in regard to graphic decorations and
+typographical splendour. Yet its garb, if less costly, is not made of
+coarse materials: for it has been the wish and aim of the Publishers, that
+this impression should rank among books worthy of the DISTINGUISHED PRESS
+from which it issues. Nor is it unadorned by the sister art of _Engraving_;
+for, although on a reduced scale, some of the repeated plates may even
+dispute the palm of superiority with their predecessors. Several of the
+GROUPS, executed on _copper_ in the preceding edition, have been executed
+on _wood_ in the present; and it is for the learned in these matters to
+decide upon their relative merits. To have attempted portraits upon wood,
+would have inevitably led to failure. There are however, a few NEW PLATES,
+which cannot fail to elicit the Purchaser's particular attention. Of these,
+the portraits of the _Abbé de la Rue_ (procured through the kind offices of
+my excellent friend Mr. Douce), and the _Comte de Brienne_, the _Gold Medal
+of Louis XII_. the _Stone Pulpit of Strasbourg Cathedral,_ and the _Prater
+near Vienna_--are particularly to be noticed.[14] This Edition has also
+another attraction, rather popular in the present day, which may add to its
+recommendation even with those possessed of its precursor. It contains
+fac-similes of the AUTOGRAPHS of several distinguished Literati and Artists
+upon the Continent;[15] who, looking at the text of the work through a less
+jaundiced medium than the Parisian translator, have continued a
+correspondence with the Author, upon the most friendly terms, since its
+publication. The accuracy of these fac-similes must be admitted, even by
+the parties themselves, to be indisputable. Among them, are several,
+executed by hands.. which now CEASE to guide the pen! I had long and fondly
+hoped to have been gratified by increasing testimonies of the warmth of
+heart which had directed several of the pens in question--hoped ... even
+against the admonition of a pagan poet ...
+
+  "Vitae summa brevis SPEM nos vetat inchoare LONGAM."
+
+But such hopes are now irretrievably cut off; and the remembrance of the
+past must solace the anticipations of the future.
+
+So much respecting the _decorative_ department of this new edition of the
+Tour. I have now to request the Reader's attention to a few points more
+immediately connected with what may be considered its _intrinsic_ worth. In
+the first place, it may be pronounced to be an Edition both _abridged_ and
+_enlarged_: abridged, as regards the lengthiness of description of many of
+the MSS. and Printed Books--and enlarged, as respects the addition, of many
+notes; partly of a controversial, and partly of an obituary, description.
+The "Antiquarian and Picturesque" portions remain nearly as heretofore; and
+upon the whole I doubt whether the amputation of matter has extended beyond
+_an eighth_ of what appeared in the previous edition. It had long ago been
+suggested to me--from a quarter too high and respectable to doubt the
+wisdom of its decision--that the Contents of this Tour should be made known
+to the Public through a less costly medium:--that the objects described in
+it were, in a measure, new and interesting--but that the high price of the
+purchase rendered it, to the majority of Readers, an inaccessible
+publication. I hope that these objections are fully met, and successfully
+set aside, by the Work in its PRESENT FORM. To have produced it, _wholly
+divested_ of ornament, would have been as foreign to my habits as repugnant
+to my feelings. I have therefore, as I would willingly conclude, hit upon
+the happy medium--between sterility and excess of decoration.
+
+After all, the greater part of the ground here trodden, yet continues to be
+untrodden ground to the public. I am not acquainted with any publication
+which embraces all the objects here described; nor can I bring myself to
+think that a perusal of the first and third volumes may not be unattended
+with gratification of a peculiar description, to the lovers of antiquities
+and picturesque beauties. The second volume is rather the exclusive
+province of the Bibliographer. In retracing the steps here marked out, I
+will not be hypocrite enough to dissemble a sort of triumphant feeling
+which accompanies a retrospection of the time, labour, and money devoted..
+in doing justice, according to my means, to the attractions and worth of
+the Countries which these pages describe. Every such effort is, in its way,
+a NATIONAL effort. Every such attempt unites, in stronger bonds, the
+reciprocities of a generous feeling between rival Nations; and if my reward
+has not been in _wealth_, it has been in the hearty commendation of the
+enlightened and the good: "Mea me virtute involvo."[16]
+
+I cannot boast of the commendatory strains of public Journals in my own
+country. No intellectual steam-engine has been put in motion to manufacture
+a review of unqualified approbation of the Work now submitted to the public
+eye--at an expense, commensurate with the ordinary means of purchase. With
+the exception of an indirect and laudatory notice of it, in the immortal
+pages of the Author of Waverley, of the Sketch book, and of Reginald
+Dalton, this Tour has had to fight its way under the splendour of its own
+banners, and in the strength of its own cause. The previous Edition is now
+a scarce and a costly book. Its Successor has enough to recommend it, even
+to the most fastidious collector, from the elegance of its type and
+decorations, and from the reasonableness of its price; but the highest
+ambition of its author is, that it may be a part of the furniture of every
+Circulating Library in the Kingdom. If he were not conscious that GOOD
+would result from its perusal, he would not venture upon such an avowal.
+"FELIX FAUSTUMQUE SIT!"
+
+
+[1] M. Crapelet is of course speaking of the PREVIOUS edition of the Tour.
+    He continues thus: "M. Dibdin, dans son voyage en France, a visité nos
+    départemens de l'ouest et de l'est, toutes leurs principales villes,
+    presque tous les lieux remarquables par les antiquités, par les
+    monumens, par les beautés du site, ou par les souvenirs historiques.
+    Il a visité les châteaux, les églises, les chapelles; il a observé nos
+    moeurs, nos coutumes; nos habitudes; il a examiné nos Musées et nos
+    premiers Cabinets de curiosité; il s'est concentré dans nos
+    Bibliothéques. Il parle de notre littérature et des hommes de lettres,
+    des arts et de nos artistes; il critique les personnes comme les
+    choses; il loue quelquefois, il plaisante souvent; la vivacité de son
+    esprit l'égare presque toujours." A careful perusal of the notes in
+    THIS edition will shew that my veracity has not "almost always led me
+    astray."
+
+[2] GABRIEL PEIGNOT; _Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques, 1822,
+    8vo. p. 4_.
+
+[3] _Lettre d'un Relieur Francais à un Bibliographe Anglais; à Paris, de
+    l'Imprimerie de Crapelet_, 1822, 8vo. p.p. 28.
+
+[4] It is a little curious that M. Lesné has not been singular in this
+    supposition. My amiable and excellent friend M. Schweighæuser of
+    Strasbourg had the same notion: at least, he told me that the style of
+    the Tour very frequently reminded him of that of Sterne. I can only
+    say--and say very honestly--that I as much thought of Sterne as I did
+    of ... William Caxton!
+
+[5] Copious as are the above quotations, from the thoroughly original M.
+    Lesné, I cannot resist the risking of the readers patience and good
+    opinion, by the subjoining of the following passage--with which the
+    brochure concludes. "D'après la multitude de choses hasardées que
+    contient votre Lettre, vous en aurez probablement recu quelques unes
+    de personnes que vous aurez choquées plus que moi, qui vous devrais
+    plutôt des remercimens pour avoir pris la peine de traduire quelques
+    pages de mon ouvrage; mais il n'en est pas de même de bien des gens,
+    et cela ne doit pas les engager à être autant communicatif avec vous,
+    si vous reveniez en France. Je souhaite, dans ce dernier cas, que tous
+    les typographes, les bibliothècaires, les bibliognostes, les
+    bibliographes, les bibliolathes, les bibliomanes, les biblophiles, les
+    bibliopoles, ceux qui exercent la bibliuguiancie et les bibliopégistes
+    même, soient pour vous autant de bibliotaphes; vous ne seriez plus à
+    même de critiquer ce que vous sauriez et ce que vous ne sauriez pas,
+    comme vous l'aviez si souvent fait inconsidérément:
+
+      Mais tous vos procédés ne nous étonnent pas,
+      C'est le sort des Français de faire DES INGRATS;
+      On les voit servir ceux qui leur furent nuisibles;
+      Je crois que sur ce point ils sont incorrigibles.
+
+    Je vous avouerai cependant que je suis loin d'être fâché de vous voir
+    en agir ainsi envers mes compatriotes: je désirerais que beaucoup
+    d'Anglais fissent de même; cela pourrait désangliciser ou
+    désanglomaniser les Français. Vous, Monsieur, qui aimez les mots
+    nouveaux, aidez-moi, je vous prie, à franciser, à purifier celui-ci.
+    Quant à moi
+
+      Je ne fus pas nourri de Grec et de Latin,
+      J'appris à veiller tard, à me lever matin,
+      La nature est le livre où je fis mes études,
+      Et tous ces mots nouveaux me semblent long-temps rudes;
+      Je trouve qu'on ne peut très bien les prononcer
+      Sans affectation, au moins sans grimacer;
+      Que tous ces mots tirés des langues étrangères,
+      Devraient être l'objet de critiques sévères.
+      Faites donc de l'esprit en depit du bon sens,
+      On vous critiquera; quant à moi j'y consens.
+
+    Je terminerai cette longue Lettre de deux manières: à l'anglaise, en
+    vous souhaitant le bon jour ou le bon soir, suivant l'heure à laquelle
+    vous la recevrez; à la française, en vous priant de me croire,
+
+    Monsieur,
+
+    Votre très humble serviteur,
+
+    LESNÉ.
+
+[6] The above brochure consists of two Letters; each to an anonymous
+    bibliographical "Confrere:" one is upon the subject of M. Crapelet's
+    version--the other, upon that of M. Licquet's version--of a portion of
+    the Tour. The notice of the Works of the Author of the Tour; a list of
+    the prices for which the Books mentioned in it have been sold; a
+    Notice of the "Hours of Charlemagne" (see vol. ii. 199) and some
+    account of the late Mr. Porson "Librarian of the London
+    Institution"--form the remaining portion of this little volume of
+    about 160 pages. For the "Curiosités Bibliographiques," consult the
+    _Bibliomania_, pp. 90, 91, &c. &c.
+
+[7] This letter accompanied another Work of M. Peignot, relating to
+    editions and translations of the Roman Classics:--and as the reader
+    will find, in the ensuing pages, that I have been sometime past
+    labouring under the frightful, but popular, mania of AUTOGRAPHS, I
+    subjoin with no small satisfaction a fac-simile of the Autograph of
+    this enthusiastic and most diligent Bibliographer.
+
+    [Autograph: Votre tres humble et obéissant serviteur, G. Peignot]
+
+[8] See page xviii.--ante.
+
+[9] M. Licquet goes on to afford an exemplification of this precipitancy of
+    conjecture, in my having construed the word _Allemagne_--a village
+    near to Caen--by that of _Germany_. I refer the reader to p. 168 post,
+    to shew with what perfect frankness I have admitted and corrected this
+    "_hippopotamos_" error.
+
+[10] More especially at pages 82, 100, 367.
+
+[11] "Sharp" as they may be, they are softened, in some measure, by the
+    admission of my bitterest annotator, M. Crapelet, that "I speak and
+    understand the French language well." vol. ii. p. 253. It is painful
+    and unusual with me to have recourse to such apparently
+    self-complimentary language; but when an adversary drives one into a
+    corner, and will not allow of fair space and fair play, one must fight
+    with feet as well as with hands ... "manibus pedibusque" ...
+
+[12] This _hiatus_ must not be filled by the Author: ... "haud equidem
+    tali me dignor honore."
+
+[13] See vol. ii. p. 210-11.
+
+[14] See vol. i. p. 186, vol. ii. pp. 49, 296, 392. The other fresh plates
+    are, _Portrait of the Author_, frontispiece; Bird's-eye views of the
+    _Monasteries of St. Peter's, Salzburg, and of Molk:_ vol. iii. pp.
+    195, 248, 381, _Black Eagle Inn_, Munich, p. 156. But the Reader will
+    be pleased to examine the _List of Plates prefixed_--in a preceding
+    page.
+
+[15] Among these distinguished Literati, I here enrol with peculiar
+    satisfaction the names of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUGIRON and Mons. DURAND
+    DE LANCON. No opportunity having occurred in the subsequent pages to
+    incorporate fac-similes of the Autographs of these distinguished
+    _Bibliophiles_, they are annexed in the present place.
+
+    [Autographs: M. de Chateaugiron, D. de Lancon]
+
+[16] It is more than a negative consolation to me, to have lived to see the
+    day, that, although comparatively impoverished, _others_ have
+    been enriched by my labours. When I noticed a complete set of my
+    lucubrations on LARGE PAPER, valued at 250_l_. in a bookseller's
+    catalogue, (Mr. Pickering's) and afterwards learnt that this set had
+    found a PURCHASER, I had reason to think that I had "deserved well" of
+    the Literature of my country: and I resolved to live "mihi carior" in
+    consequence.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+
+Antiquarian
+
+AND
+
+PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+
+
+
+The Notes peculiar to THIS EDITION are distinguished by being inserted
+between brackets: as thus:--[]
+
+*** The Index is placed at the end of the First Volume, for the purpose of
+equalising the size of the Volumes.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.
+
+_Dieppe, April 20, 1818_.
+
+
+At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian_,[17] and _Picturesque Tour"_ is carried into execution; and
+the Tourist is safely landed on the shores of Normandy. "Vous voilà donc,
+Monsieur à Dieppe!"--exclaimed the landlord of the Grand Hôtel
+d'Angleterre--as I made my way through a vociferating crowd of old and
+young, of both sexes, with cards of addresses in their hands; entreating me
+to take up my abode at their respective hotels.... But I know your love of
+method, and that you will be angry with me if I do not "begin at the
+beginning."
+
+It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left my home, on
+the 14th of this present month, for the land of castles, churches, and
+ancient chivalry. The wind from the south-east was blowing pretty smartly
+at the time; but the sky was without a cloud, and I could not but look upon
+the brilliancy of every external object as a favourable omen of the
+progress and termination of my tour. Adverse winds, or the indolence or
+unwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole
+days--instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day following
+our arrival. We were to form the first ship's company which had visited
+France this season. On approaching our gallant little bark, the
+_Nancy_,[18] commanded by Captain BLABER, the anchor was weighed, and
+hoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day began to improve upon us. The
+gloomy appearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A host of black
+clouds rolled heavily away. The sun at length shone in his full meridian
+splendour, and the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves. As I
+supposed us to near the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain an early
+glimpse of something in the shape of cliff or jettie. But the wind
+continued determinedly in the south east: the waves rose in larger masses;
+and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of foam as we entered on the
+various tacks.
+
+It is a grand sight--that vast, and apparently interminable ocean--
+
+  .... maria undique et undique coelum!
+
+We darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French coast: and as
+the sun declined, we found it most prudent to put the Captain's advice, of
+going below, into execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the voyage.
+The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture and
+pain in our respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over
+the deck, sky-light, and binnacle: and down came, in consequence, drenched
+with the briny wave, the hardiest of our crew, who, till then, had ventured
+to linger upon deck. That crew was various; and not without a few of the
+natives of those shores which we were about to visit.
+
+To cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only farther to say, that,
+towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw "the lights of
+Dieppe"--a joyful sound to us miserable wretches below. I well remember, at
+this moment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless eye, and
+perceiving the light of the moon still lingering upon the main-sail,--but I
+shall never forget how much more powerfully my sensations were excited,
+when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, I looked up, and saw an old
+wrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on begirt with large blue,
+puckered, short petticoats--in possession of the helm--about to steer the
+vessel into harbour![19]
+
+About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and agitated, and
+of a dingy colour: while
+
+    .... heavily with clouds came on the day,
+
+as we slowly approached the outward harbour of DIEPPE. A grey morning with
+drizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a first visit to a foreign
+shore. Nevertheless every thing was new, and strange, and striking; and the
+huge crucifix, to the right, did not fail to make a very forcible
+impression. As we approached the, inner harbour, the shipping and the
+buildings more distinctly presented themselves. The harbour is large, and
+the vessels are entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishing
+smacks: but the manner in which the latter harmonized with the tint and
+structure of the houses--the bustle upon shore--the casks, deal planks,
+ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays,--all formed a most
+animated and interesting scene. The population seemed countless, and
+chiefly females; whose high caps and enormous ear-rings, with the rest of
+their paraphernalia, half persuaded me that instead of being some few
+twenty-five leagues only from our own white cliffs, I had in fact dropt
+upon the Antipodes! What a scene (said I to my companion) for our CALCOTT
+to depict![20] It was a full hour before we landed--saluted, and even
+assailed on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hotels. We were
+not long however in fixing our residence at the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, of
+which the worthy Mons. De La Rue[21] is the landlord.
+
+
+[17] [Mons. Licquet, my translator, thinks, that in using the word
+    "_Antiquaire_"--as appears in the previous edition of this work,
+    incorporated in the gallicised sentence of "_Voyage Bibliographique
+    Antiquaire_, &c."--I have committed an error; as the word
+    "_Archéologique_" ought, in his opinion, to have been adopted--and he
+    supposes that he best expresses my meaning by its adoption. Such a
+    correction may be better French; but "Archaeological" is not exactly
+    what is usually meant--in our language--by "Antiquarian."]
+
+[18] This smart little vessel, of about 70 tons burden, considered to be
+    the fastest sailing packet from Dieppe, survived our voyage only about
+    eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on
+    board of her. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound
+    for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew was with
+    difficulty saved--and the vessel went down within about twenty-five
+    minutes after the shock.
+
+[19] The English are not permitted to bring their own vessels into
+    harbour--for obvious reasons.
+
+[20] [This "scene" has been, in fact, subsequently depicted by. the
+    masterly pencil of J.M.W.TURNER, Esq. R. A: and the picture, in which
+    almost all the powers of that surprising Artist are concentrated, was
+    lately offered for sale by public auction. How it was suffered to be
+    _bought in_ for three hundred and eighty guineas, is at once a riddle
+    and a reproach to public taste.]
+
+[21] [I learn that he is since DECEASED. Thus the very first chapter of
+    this second edition has to record an instance of the casualties and
+    mutabilities which the short space of ten years has effected. Mons. De
+    la Rue was a man of worth and of virtue.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JAQUES AND ST. REMY. DIVINE
+WORSHIP. MILITARY MASS.
+
+
+The town of Dieppe contains a population of about twenty-thousand
+souls.[22] Of these, by much the greater _stationary_ part are females;
+arising from one third at least of the males being constantly engaged in
+the FISHERIES. As these fisheries are the main support of the inhabitants,
+it is right that you should know something about them. The _herring_
+fishery takes place twice a year: in August and October. The August fishery
+is carried on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty to
+eighty vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty tons burthen each, with about
+fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are freighted with
+salt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing the fish, and they return
+about the end of October. The herrings caught in August are considerably
+preferable to those caught in October. The October fishery is carried on
+with smaller vessels, along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre.
+From one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty vessels, are engaged
+in this latter navigation; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferior
+flavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost entirely to
+the provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh. So much for the
+herring.[23]
+
+The _Mackarel_ fishery usually commences towards the month of July, along
+the coast of Picardy; because, being a sort of fish of passage, it gets
+into the channel in the month of April. It then moves towards the straits
+of Dover, as summer approaches. For this fishery they make use of large
+decked-vessels, from twenty to fifty tons burthen, manned with from twelve
+to twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats employed in this fishery
+which go as far as the Scilly Islands and Ushant, towards the middle of
+April. They carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, which
+are afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior of
+France. The _cod fishery_ is divided into the fresh and dried fish. The
+former continues from the beginning of February to the end of April--and
+the vessels employed, which go as far as Newfoundland, are two deckers, and
+from one hundred to one hundred and fifty tons burthen--although, in fact,
+they rarely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. The
+dried-cod fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes; but it is
+essential that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is more
+cumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about the
+month of March or April, in order that they may have the advantage of the
+summer season, to dry the fish. There are vessels which go to Newfoundland
+laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and woollen cloths, which
+they dispose of to the inhabitants of the French colonies in exchange for
+dried cod. This latter species of commerce may be carried on in the summer
+months--as late as July.
+
+In the common markets for retail trade, they are not very nice in the
+quality or condition of their fish; and enormous conger eels, which would
+be instantly rejected by the middling, or even lower classes in England,
+are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and relished with glee. A few francs
+will procure a dish of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays are
+constantly crowded, but there seems to be more of bustle than of business.
+The town is certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are very
+little more than a century old, and the streets are formal and
+comparatively wide. Indeed it should seem that the houses were built
+expressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited by
+tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans, in apparently very indifferent
+circumstances. I scarcely saw six private houses which could be called
+elegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet noticed in the
+streets. But if the _Dieppois_ are not rich, they seem happy, and are in a
+constant state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, or
+in an insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet (as indeed do all the
+tradesmen's wives), and works or sings as humour sways her. A man sells
+gingerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his customer's coming,
+reads some popular history or romance. Most of the upper windows are wholly
+destitute of glass; but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers.
+The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote to
+odors of a very different description; and here we begin to have a too
+convincing proof of the general character of the country in regard to the
+want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a better-regulated
+police, would speedily get rid of such nuisances. The want of public sewers
+is another great and grievous cause of smells of every description. At
+Dieppe there are fountains in abundance; and if some of the limpid streams,
+which issue from them, were directed to cleansing the streets, (which are
+excellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious and
+pleasant--especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen.
+
+We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, when a loud and clattering sound
+was heard; and down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercing
+crackings of the whip, the thundering _Diligence_: large, lofty, and of
+most unwieldy dimensions: of a structure, too, strong enough to carry a
+half score of elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly _sui
+generis_: gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms with himself.
+He wears the royal livery, red and blue; with a plate of the fleur de lis
+upon his left arm. His hair is tied behind, in a thick, short, tightly
+fastened queue: with powder and pomatum enough to weather a whole winter's
+storm and tempest.[24] As he never rises in his stirrups,[25] I leave you
+to judge of the merciless effects of this ever-beating club upon the
+texture of his jacket. He is however fond of his horses: is well known by
+them; and there is all flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his
+treatment of them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions; such as we see
+sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. of the XVth century.
+He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind him. He sits upon
+the near of the two wheel horses, with three horses before him. His
+turnings are all adroitly and correctly made; and, upon the whole, he is a
+clever fellow in the exercise of his office.
+
+You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly celebrated for its
+manufactures in _Ivory_; but the present aspect of the ivory-market affords
+only a faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth and
+seventeenth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of a
+religious character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter of
+evidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerable
+manufacture of _thread lace_; and between three and four thousand females
+are supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by it.[26]
+
+My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly induced me to visit the
+CHURCHES; and I set out with two English gentlemen to pay our respects to
+the principal church, St. JAQUES. As we entered it, a general gloom
+prevailed, and a sort of premature evening came on; while the clatter of
+the sabots was sufficiently audible along the aisles. In making the circuit
+of the side chapels, an unusual light proceeded from a sort of grated door
+way. We approached, and witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet our
+attention. In what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several
+figures, cut in stone, and coloured after life, (of which they were the
+size) representing the _Three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of Arimathea_..
+in the act of entombing Christ: the figure of our Saviour being half sunk
+into the tomb. The whole was partially illuminated by some two dozen of
+shabby and nearly consumed tallow candles; affording a striking contrast to
+the increasing darkness of the nave and the side aisles. We retired, more
+and more struck with the novelty of every object around us, to our supper
+and beds, which were excellent; and a good night's rest made me forget the
+miseries of the preceding evening.
+
+The next morning, being Sunday, we betook ourselves in good time to the
+service of ST. JAQUES:[27] but on our way thither, we saw a waxen figure of
+Christ (usually called an "Ecce Homo") enclosed within a box, of which the
+doors were opened. The figure and box are the property of the man who plays
+on a violin, close to the box; and who is selling little mass books,
+supposed to be rendered more sacred by having been passed across the feet
+and hands of the waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motley
+group, must strike you with astonishment--as a Sunday morning's recreation.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By half past ten the congregation had assembled within the Church; and
+every side-chapel (I think about twelve in number) began to be filled by
+the penitent flocks: each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair--with
+which the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of which the _Tarif_
+(or terms of hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure,
+full eighteen women to one man: which may in part be accounted for, by the
+almost uniform absence of a third of the male population occupied in the
+fisheries. I think there could not have been fewer than two thousand souls
+present. But what struck me as the most ludicrously solemn thing I had ever
+beheld, was a huge tall figure, dressed like a drum-major, with a large
+cocked hat and three white plumes, (the only covered male figure in the
+congregation,) a broad white sash upon a complete suit of red, including
+red stockings;--representing what in our country is called a _Beadle_. He
+was a sturdy, grim-looking fellow; bearing an halberd in his right hand,
+which he wielded with a sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into the
+young, and commanding the admiration of the old. I must not, however, omit
+to inform you, that half the service was scarcely performed when the
+preacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermon
+from a printed book. I shall long have a distinct recollection of the
+figure and attitude of the _Verger_ who attended the preacher. He followed
+him to the pulpit, fastened the door, became stationary, and rested his
+left arm over the railings of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff-box
+with his right hand, and regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the most
+joyous and comfortably-abstracted manner imaginable. There he remained till
+the conclusion of the discourse; not one word of which seemed to afford him
+half the satisfaction as did the contents of his snuff-box.
+
+_Military Mass_ was performed about an hour after, at the church of ST.
+REMY, whither I strolled quietly, to witness the devotion of the
+congregation previous to the entry of the soldiers; and I will not
+dissemble being much struck and gratified by what I saw. There was more
+simplicity: a smaller congregation: softer music: a lower-toned organ; less
+rush of people; and in very many of the flock the most intense and
+unfeigned expression of piety. At the elevation of the host, from the end
+of the choir, (near which was suspended a white flag with the portrait of
+the present King[28] upon it) a bell was rung from the tower of the church;
+the sound, below, was soft and silver-toned--accompanied by rather a quick
+movement on the organ, upon the diapason stop; which, united with the
+silence and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded the
+reverence of the most profane.
+
+There is nothing, my dear friend, more gratifying, in a foreign land, than
+the general appearance of earnestness of devotion on a sabbath day;
+especially within the HOUSE OF GOD. However, I quickly heard the clangor of
+the trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and up
+marched two or three troops of the national guard to perform military mass.
+I retired precipitately to the Inn, being well pleased to have escaped this
+strange and distracting sight: so little in harmony with the rites and
+ceremonies of our own church, and in truth so little accordant with the
+service which I had just beheld.
+
+
+[22] [Mons. Licquet says that there were about 17,000 souls in 1824; so
+    that the above number may be that of the amount of its _present_
+    population. "Several changes (says my French translator) have taken
+    place at Dieppe since I saw it: among the rest, there is a magnificent
+    establishment of BATHS, where a crowd of people, of the first
+    distinction, every year resort. Her Royal Highness, the Duchesse de
+    Berri, may be numbered among these Visitors.]
+
+[23] [The common people to this day call a _herring_, a _child of
+    Dieppe._ LICQUET.]
+
+[24] ["Sterne reproaches the French for their hyperbolical language: the
+    air of the country had probably some influence on M. Dibdin when he
+    adopted this phrase." LICQUET.]
+
+[25] ["Signifying, that the French postilions do not ride like the
+    English." LICQUET.]
+
+[26] ["Dieppe for a long time was the rival of Argentan and Caen in the
+    lace-manufactory: at the present day, this branch of commerce is
+    almost annihilated there."--LICQUET.]
+
+[27] [In a note attached to the previous edition--I have said, "Here also,
+    as well as at Rouen; they will have it that the ENGLISH built the
+    Churches." Upon which M. Licquet remarks thus: "M. Dibdin's expression
+    conveys too general an idea. It is true that _popular_ opinion
+    attributes the erection of our gothic edifices to the ENGLISH: but
+    there exists _another_ opinion, which is not deceptive upon this
+    subject." What is meant to be here conveyed? Either the popular
+    opinion is true or false; and it is a matter of perfect indifference
+    to the author whether it be one or the other. For Mons. Licquet's
+    comfort, I will freely avow that I believe it to be _false_.]
+
+[28] [Louis XVIII.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSEMENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
+BOULEVARDS.
+
+
+As I had received especial injunctions from our friend P--- not to leave
+Dieppe without paying a visit to the famous _Chateau d'Arques_[29], in its
+neighbourhood, I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably fair, or
+rather gray-looking day, to go and pay due homage to those venerable
+remains of antiquity. The road thither is completely rural: apple-trees,
+just beginning to burst their blossoms; hamlets, small farm-houses: a
+profusion of rich herbage of various kinds--delighted and regaled me as I
+pursued my tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating character;
+but the flats or meadows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subject
+to constant inundation from the sea; and in an agricultural point of view
+are consequently of little use, except for summer grazing of the cattle.
+
+It was drawing on to vespers as I approached the _Village of Arques_. The
+old castle had frequently peeped out upon me, in my way thither, from its
+elevated situation; but being resolved to see "all that could be seen," a
+French village, for the first time, was not to be overlooked. For a country
+church, I know of few finer ones than that of Arques.[30]
+
+The site of the castle is admirable. My approach was to the western
+extremity; which, as you look down, brings the village and church of Arques
+in the back ground. If the eye were to be considered as a correct judge,
+this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, intermixed with brick,
+would perhaps claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over most of the
+castles of the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a bold
+acclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, to
+the foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers at the
+extremities, and a square citadel or donjon within. To the north, a good
+deal of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of the wall. The
+day harmonised admirably with the venerable object before me. The sunshine
+lasted but for a minute: when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not a
+single catch of radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All was
+quiet, and of a sombre aspect,--and what _you_, in your admiration of art,
+would call in perfectly "fine keeping."
+
+I descended the hill, bidding a long adieu to this venerable relic of the
+hardihood of other times, and quickened my pace towards Dieppe. In gaining
+upon the town, I began to discern groups of rustics, as well as of
+bourgeoises, assembling and mingling in the dance. The women never think of
+wearing bonnets, and you have little idea how picturesquely the red and
+blue[31] (the colours of Raffaelle's Madonnas) glanced backwards and
+forwards amidst the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit-stirring
+violin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gave
+the finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and to
+their credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily dressed than the
+men. The couples are frequently female, for want of a sufficient number of
+swains; but, whether correctly or incorrectly paired, they dance with
+earnestness, if not with grace. It was a picture à la Teniers, without its
+occasional grossness. This then, said I to myself, is what I have so often
+heard of the sabbath-gambols of the French--and long may they enjoy them!
+They are surely better than the brutal orgies of the pot-house, or the
+fanatical ravings of the tabernacle.[32]
+
+A late plain dinner, with my favourite vin ordinaire, recruited my
+strength, and kept me in perfectly good humour with Dieppe.
+
+The deportment of the _Dieppois_[33] towards the English, is, upon the
+whole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits by the
+liberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, as soon
+as they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing the _G---- d----_;
+and a few horribly-deformed and importunate beggars are for ever assailing
+the doors of the hotels. But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil
+as I had anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate the
+poverty of the inhabitants; their houses being too large to be entirely
+occupied. Bonaparte appears to have been anxious about the strengthening of
+the harbour; the navigation into which is somewhat difficult and intricate.
+The sides of the walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong; and
+raised batteries would render any hostile approach extremely hazardous to
+the assailants.
+
+There is no ship-building at this moment going on: the ribs of about half a
+dozen, half rotted, small merchant-craft, being all that is discernible.
+But much is projected, and much is hoped from such projects. Dieppe has
+questionless many local advantages both by land and by sea; yet it will
+require a long course of years to infuse confidence and beget a love of
+enterprise. In spite of all the _naval zeal_, it is here exhibited chiefly
+as affording means of subsistence from the fisheries. I must not however
+conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far and near
+for a good bookseller and for some old books--but found nothing worth the
+search, except a well-printed early _Rouen Missal_, and _Terence_ by
+_Badius Ascensius_. The booksellers are supplied with books chiefly from
+Rouen; the local press being too insignificant to mention.
+
+
+[29] The French Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the
+    11th century, supposing it to have been built by _William d'Arques_,
+    Count of Tallon, son of the second marriage of Richard Duke of
+    Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built, the sea almost washed
+    its base: for it is known to have occupied the whole of what is called
+    the _Valley of Arques_, running as far as _Bouteilles_. Its position,
+    in reference to the art of war, must have been almost impregnable.
+    Other hypotheses assign its origin to the ninth or tenth century.
+    Whenever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1144, it
+    was commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the
+    crosier, but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history,
+    up to the sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details; but in
+    the wars of Henry IV. with the League, in 1589, it was taken by
+    surprise by soldiers in the disguise of sailors: who, killing the
+    centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry caused
+    it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the eighteenth
+    century it received very severe treatment from pillage, for the
+    purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe. At present
+    (in the language of the author of the _Rouen Itinerary_) "it is the
+    abode of silence--save when that silence is interrupted by owls and
+    other nocturnal birds." The view of it in Mr. Cotman's work is very
+    faithful.
+
+[30] The _Itinéraire de Rouen_, 1816, p. 202, says, absurdly, that
+    this church is of the XIth century. It is perhaps with more truth of
+    the beginning of the XIVth century. A pleasing view of it is in Mr.
+    Dawson Turner's elegant Tour in Normandy, 1818, 8vo. 2 vol. It
+    possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV., which is supposed to have been
+    placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by Henry over
+    the Duke of Mayenne in 1589.
+
+[31] The blue gown and red petticoat; or vice versa.
+
+[32] [I am anxious that the above sentence should stand precisely as it
+    appeared in the first edition of this work; because a circumstance has
+    arisen from it, which could have been as little in the anticipation,
+    as it is in the comprehension, of the author. A lady, of high
+    connections, and of respectable character, conceived the passage in
+    question to be somewhat indecorous; or revolting to the serious sense
+    entertained by all Christians, and especially by CHRISTIAN MINISTERS,
+    of the mode of devoting the Sabbath day. In consequence, being in
+    possession of a copy of this work, she DIVIDED it into two; not being
+    willing to sully the splendour of the plates by the supposed impurity
+    of such a passage:--and the prints were accordingly bound APART. The
+    passage--as applied to the FRENCH PEOPLE--requires neither comment nor
+    qualification; and in the same unsophisticated view of religious
+    duties, the _latter_ part may be as strictly applied to the
+    ENGLISH.]
+
+[33] The dress of the _sailors_ is the same as it was in the XIVth
+    century; and so probably is that of the women. The illuminations in
+    Froissard and Monstrelet clearly give us the Norman cauchoise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY.
+
+
+Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary city in the
+world. One rubs one's eyes, and fancies one is dreaming, upon being carried
+through the streets of this old-fashioned place: or that, by some secret
+talismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objects
+of art, at the commencement of the sixteenth century: so very curious, and
+out of the common appearance of things, is almost every object connected
+with ROUEN. But before I commence my observations upon the _town_, I must
+give you a brief sketch of my _journey_ hither. We had bespoke our places
+in the cabriolet of the Diligence, which just holds three tolerably
+comfortable; provided there be a disposition to accommodate each other.
+This cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, or
+phaeton seat, with a covering of leather in the front of the coach. It is
+fortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece of
+iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means of a hook on the
+perpendicular supporter of the head. There are stiffish leathern curtains
+on each side, to be drawn, if necessary, as a protection against the rain,
+&c. You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no very
+uncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4th
+day after our arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we could
+hardly refrain from loud laughter at the novelty of our situation, and the
+grotesqueness of the conveyance. Our Postilion was a rare specimen of his
+species, and a perfectly _unique copy_. He fancied himself, I suppose,
+rather getting "into the vale of years," and had contrived to tinge his
+cheeks with a plentiful portion of rouge.[34] His platted and powdered hair
+was surmounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded ribband:
+his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his order (the royal
+arms) upon his left arm. What struck me as not a little singular, was, that
+his countenance was no very faint resemblance of that of _Voltaire_, when
+he might have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly he
+resembled him in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of his
+mouth. We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, and
+sometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through which we
+were compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of _cord_; which, however
+keep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidity
+of the descent by conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel or
+rubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that,
+to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process, the
+effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little in
+changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed, and in
+general no accidents occur.
+
+The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition.
+There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient
+line of demarkation. The country is open, and gently undulating; with
+scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-scenery, till you get
+towards the conclusion of the first stage. Nothing particularly strikes you
+till you approach _Malaunai_, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and
+of course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautiful
+village repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should have
+been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk serpentine trout stream are
+studded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear to
+be carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hanging
+woods; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the branches
+with green in our own country, yet _here_ there was a general freshness of
+verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple; altogether
+rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there were
+delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have
+embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for the
+gratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not quickly
+fall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained their
+purses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road-side
+there were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptied
+cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, where
+Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistas,
+and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles, and numerous
+riding and walking groups, increased upon us; and every thing announced
+that we were approaching a _great and populous city_.
+
+The approach to ROUEN is indeed magnificent. I speak of the immediate
+approach; after you reach the top of a considerable rise, and are stopped
+by the barriers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly paved
+road, lined with a double row of trees on each side. As the foliage was not
+thickly set, we could discern, through the delicately-clothed branches, the
+tapering spire of the CATHEDRAL, and the more picturesque tower of the
+ABBAYE ST. OUEN--with hanging gardens, and white houses, to the
+left--covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink as it were
+into the _Boulevards_, and which is called the _Faubourg Cauchoise_. To the
+right, through the trees, you see the river SEINE (here of no despicable
+depth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in motion: the voice of
+commerce, and the stir of industry, cheering and animating you as you
+approach the town. I was told that almost every vessel which I saw (some of
+them of two hundred, and even of three hundred tons burthen) was filled
+with brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of long
+ropes, across the road; and the whole scene is of a truly novel and
+imposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what I
+experienced, as, turning to the left, and leaving the broader streets which
+flank the quay, I began to enter the _penetralia_ of this truly antiquated
+town? What narrow streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre,
+capricious ornaments! What a mixture of modern with ancient art! What
+fragments, or rather ruins, of old delicately-built Gothic churches! What
+signs of former and of modern devastation! What fountains, gutters, groups
+of never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay, all occupied, and all
+apparently happy! The _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_ (so called from a huge,
+clumsy, antiquated clock which goes across it) struck me as being not among
+the least singular streets of Rouen. In five minutes I was within the
+court-yard of the _Hôtel Vatel_, the favourite residence of the English.
+
+It was evening when I arrived, in company with three Englishmen. We were
+soon saluted by the _laquais de place_--the leech-like hangers-on of every
+hotel--who begged to know if we would walk upon the Boulevards. We
+consented; turned to the right; and, gradually rising, gained a
+considerable eminence. Again we turned to the right, walking upon a raised
+promenade; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundred
+walled gardens, perfumed the air with a delicious fragrance. As we
+continued our route along the _Boulevard Beauvoisine_, we gained one of the
+most interesting and commanding views imaginable of the city of Rouen--just
+at that moment lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious sun-set--which
+gave a breadth and a mellower tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral and
+the Abbey of St. Ouen. The situation of Rouen renders it necessarily
+picturesque, view it from what spot you will.
+
+The population of Rouen is supposed to be full one hundred thousand souls.
+In truth, there is no end to the succession of human beings. They swarm
+like bees, and like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of their
+industry. You have all the bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill;
+only that the ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half as
+broad. Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-street,--and yet
+you cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen: filled with the flaunting
+cauchoise, and echoing to the eternal tramp of the sabot. There they are;
+men, women, and children--all abroad in the very centre of the streets:
+alternately encountering the splashing of the gutter, and the jostling of
+their townsmen--while the swift cabriolet, or the slow-paced cart, or the
+thundering _Diligence_, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only that
+they may seem to be yet more condensely united. For myself, it is with
+difficulty I believe that I am not living in the times of our Henry VIII.
+and of their Francis I.; and am half disposed to inquire after the
+residence of _Guillaume Tailleur_ the printer--the associate, or foreign
+agent of your favourite _Pynson_.[35]
+
+
+[34] [Mons. Licquet here observes, "This is the first time I have heard it
+    said that our Postilions put on rouge." What he adds, shall be given
+    in his own pithy expression.--"Où la coquetterie va-t-elle se nicher?"
+    What, however is above stated, was stated from a _conviction_ of
+    its being TRUE]
+
+[35] [The third English Printer.] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_,
+    vol. ii. p. 137, 8.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.
+THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST. VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN,
+ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL.
+
+
+I have now made myself pretty well acquainted with the geography of Rouen.
+How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a satisfactory, description of
+it? It cannot be done. You love old churches, old books, and relics of
+ancient art. These be my themes, therefore: so fancy yourself either
+strolling leisurely with me, arm in arm, in the streets--or sitting at my
+elbow. First for THE CATHEDRAL:--for what traveller of taste does not doff
+his bonnet to the _Mother Church_ of the town through which he happens to
+be travelling--or in which he takes up a temporary abode? The
+west-front,[36] always the _forte_ of the architect's skill, strikes you as
+you go down, or come up, the principal street--_La Rue des Carmes_,--which
+seems to bisect the town into equal parts. A small open space, (which
+however has been miserably encroached upon by petty shops) called the
+_Flower-garden_, is before this western front; so that it has some little
+breathing room in which to expand its beauties to the wondering eyes of the
+beholder. In my poor judgment, this western front has very few elevations
+comparable with it[37]--including even those of _Lincoln_ and _York_. The
+ornaments, especially upon the three porches, between the two towers, are
+numerous, rich, and for the greater part entire:--in spite of the
+Calvinists,[38] the French revolution, and time. Among the lower and
+smaller basso-relievos upon these porches, is the subject of the daughter
+of Herodias dancing before Herod. She is manoeuvering on her hands, her
+feet being upwards. To the right, the decapitation of St. John is taking
+place.
+
+The southern transept makes amends for the defects of the northern. The
+space before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable market: curious old
+houses encircle this space: and the ascent to the door, but more especially
+the curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open spaces in the upper
+part--light, fanciful and striking to a degree--produce an effect as
+pleasing as it is extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of
+devotees, going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the frittered
+ornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour and
+activity of devotion is almost equal to that of business.[39]
+
+As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps,
+you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and with the
+lightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. Perhaps the
+nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large tower
+is beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massive
+clustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference;[40] but on casting
+your eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless division of the choir
+from the nave by what is called a _Grecian screen_: and the interior of the
+transepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows
+of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit your
+attention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, upon
+entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral: of a date,
+little less ancient than that of the northern tower; and perhaps of the end
+of the twelfth century. It contains by much the finest specimens of stained
+glass--of the early part of the XVIth century. There is also some beautiful
+stained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,[41] behind the
+choir; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being
+composed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost
+all the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been made
+among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists.[42]
+
+Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous ROLLO lies in
+one of the side-chapels, farther down to the right, upon entering; although
+his monument cannot be older than the thirteenth century. My attachment to
+the bibliomanical celebrity of JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, will naturally lead
+me to the notice of his interment and monumental inscription. The latter is
+thus;
+
+    _Ad dextrum Altaris Latus_
+
+    _Jacet_
+
+    IOANNES DUX BETFORDI
+
+    _Normanniæ pro Rex_
+
+    _Obiit Anno_
+
+    MCCCCXXXV.
+
+The Duke's tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford's Genealogical
+History,[43] p. 314; which plate, in fact, is the identical one used by
+Ducarel; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-Norman
+Antiquities without any expense to himself![44]
+
+There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye's _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale
+de Rouen_, p. 203, respecting the Duke's taking the habit of a canon of the
+cathedral. He attended, with his first wife, ANNE OF BURGUNDY, and threw
+himself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received by
+them as one of their order: "il les prioit d'être receu parmy eux comme un
+de leurs frères, et d'avoir tous les jours distribution de pain et de vin,
+et pour marque de fraternité d'être vétu du surplis et de l'aumusse: comme
+aussi d'être associé, luy et sa très généreuse et très illustre épouse, aux
+suffrages de leur compagnie, et à la participation de tous les biens qu'il
+plaira à Dieu leur donner la grace d'opérer," p. 204. A grand procession
+marked the day of the Duke's admission into the monkish fraternity. The
+whole of this, with an account of the Duke's superb presents to the
+sacristy, his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion of
+"eight loaves and four gallons of wine," are distinctly narrated by the
+minute Pommeraye.
+
+As you approach the _Chapel of the Virgin_, you pass by an ancient
+monument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing behind a thin
+pillar, within a pretty ornamented Gothic arch.[45] To the eye of a
+tasteful antiquary this cannot fail to have its due attraction. While
+however we are treading upon hallowed ground, rendered if possible more
+sacred by the ashes of the illustrious dead, let us move gently onwards
+towards the _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir. See, what bold and
+brilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar! How
+gracefully they kneel and how devoutly they pray! They are the figures of
+the CARDINALS D'AMBOISE--uncle and nephew:--the former, minister of Louis
+XII.[46] and (what does not necessarily follow, but what gives him as high
+a claim upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beautifier of the
+glorious building in which you are contemplating his figure. This splendid
+monument is entirely of black and white marble, of the early part of the
+sixteenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneeling
+upon cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fretwork. They are in their
+professional robes; their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with the
+hair in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of _St. George_,
+their tutelary saint, is below them, in gilded marble: and the whole base,
+or lower frieze, of the monument, is surrounded by six delicately
+sculptured females, about three feet high, emblematic of the virtues for
+which these cardinals were so eminently distinguished. These figures,
+representing Faith, Charity, Prudence, Force, Justice, and Temperance, are
+flanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved niches; while, above them,
+are the twelve Apostles, not less beautifully executed.[47]
+
+On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and liberality--and
+with one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of the deceased--let us
+fancy we hear the sound of the GREAT BELL from the south-west tower ...
+called the _Amboise Tower_ ... erected, both the bell and the tower, by the
+uncle and minister AMBOISE. Know, my dear friend, that there was _once_ a
+bell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to send forth its
+sound, for three successive centuries, from the said tower. This bell was
+broken about thirty years ago, and destroyed in the ravages of the
+immediately succeeding years.[48] The south-west tower remains, and the
+upper part of the central tower, with the whole of the lofty wooden
+spire:--the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men of whom such
+honourable mention has been made. Considering that this spire is very
+lofty, and composed of wood, _it is surprising that it has not been
+destroyed by tempest, or by lightning_.[49] The taste of it is rather
+capricious than beautiful.
+
+I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only commenced the
+account of them.[50] Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of the
+altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I have just been dilating.
+It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly expression of countenance,
+representing the moment when the last breath has escaped from the body. It
+is the figure of the Grand SENESCHAL DE BREZE,[51]--Governor of Rouen, and
+husband of the celebrated DIANE DE POICTIERS--that thus claims our
+attention. This figure is quite naked, lying upon its back, with the right
+hand placed on the stomach, but in an action which indicates _life_--and
+therefore it is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned; for the head
+being fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly expression of
+countenance--indicating that some time has elapsed since it breathed its
+last--the hand could not rest in this position. The cenotaph is of black
+marble, disfigured by the names of idle visitors who choose to leave such
+impertinent memorials behind. The famous GOUJON is supposed to be the
+sculptor of the figure, which is painfully clever, but it strikes me as
+being too small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong and
+fleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the countenance.
+Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and lifeless, there is another and a
+very clever representation of him, on a smaller scale, on horseback.
+
+On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious injury) are two
+females in white marble; one representing the VIRGIN, and the other DIANE
+DE POICTIERS:[52] they are little more than half the size of life. The
+whole is in the very best style of the sculpture of the time of Francis I.
+These precious specimens of art, as well as several other similar remains,
+were carried away during the revolution, to a place of safety. The choir is
+spacious, and well adapted to its purposes; but who does not grieve to see
+the Archbishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the Gothic
+order, and executed at the end of the XVth century, transformed into a
+stately common-place canopy, supported by columns of chestnut-wood carved
+in the Grecian style? The LIBRARY, which used to terminate the north
+transept, is--not gone--but transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with an
+appropriate inscription,[53] yet attest that it was formerly an appendage
+to that part of the edifice.
+
+Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to tell you
+something relating to the rites performed therein. Let us quit therefore
+the dead for the living. Of course we saw, here, a repetition of the
+ceremonies observed at Dieppe; but previously to the feast of the
+_Ascension_ we were also present at the confirmation of three hundred boys
+and three hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately dressed, in a
+sort of sabbath attire, and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand.
+The girls were dressed in white, with white veils; and the rich lent veils
+to those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral,
+especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair, stood
+up, and gazed as earnestly as the rest. The interest excited among the
+parents, and especially the mothers, was very striking. "Voila la
+petite--qu'elle a l'air charmant!--le petit ange!"....A stir is made ...
+they rise... and approach, in the most measured order, the rails of the
+choir ... There they deposit their tapers. The priests, very numerous,
+extinguish them as dexterously as they can; and the whole cathedral is
+perfumed with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on
+approaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel down; then shut
+their eyes, open their mouths; and the priests deposit the consecrated
+wafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a different direction.
+They all went into the nave, where a sermon was preached to the young
+people, expressly upon the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of
+the cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popularity. He had one of the
+most meagre and forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was
+black and unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently:
+making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left arm--and
+displaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner, wholly exempt
+from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and feelings of his
+youthful audience. His subject was "belief in Christ Jesus;" on which he
+gave very excellent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin, but clear,
+and distinctly heard.
+
+And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this détour of the
+CATHEDRAL, suppose we take a promenade to the next most important
+ecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you therefore to a
+stroll to the ABBEY of ST. OUEN? "Willingly," methinks I hear you reply. To
+the abbey therefore let us go.
+
+Leaving the Cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of the
+early time of Francis I.) which stands at the corner of a street, to the
+right; and which, from its central situation, is visited the live-long day
+for the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then, turning
+to the right, you get into a sort of square, and observe the ABBEY--or
+rather the _west-front_ of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are first
+struck with its matchless window: call it rose, or marygold, as you please.
+I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is perfectly
+unrivalled. There is a play of line in the mullions, which, considering
+their size and strength, may be pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You
+approach, regretting the neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter,
+through the large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the
+Abbey. It was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening
+was beautiful; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through the
+stained glass of the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The
+window itself, as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the
+centre of it, from the remote end of the Abbey, or the _Lady's Chapel_, was
+a perfect blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemed
+magically illumined ...
+
+  Seemed all on fire--within, around;
+  Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound....
+
+  _Lay of the Last Minstrel_.
+
+We declared instinctively that the ABBEY OF ST. OUEN could hardly have a
+rival;--certainly not a superior.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel and recess
+was rendered doubly impressive by the devotion of numerous straggling
+supplicants; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the place, reached
+the ears and touched the hearts of the bystanders. The grand western
+entrance presents you with the most perfect view of the choir--a magical
+circle, or rather oval--flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and free
+from the surrounding obstruction of screens, &c. Nothing more airy and more
+captivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and delicacy of these
+pillars are quite surprising. Above, below, around--every thing is in the
+purest style of the XIVth and XVth centuries. The central tower is a tower
+of beauty as well as of strength. Yet in regard to further details,
+connected with the interior, it must be admitted that there is very little
+more which is deserving of particular description; except it be _the
+gallery_, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir, and which is
+considerably more light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A great
+deal has been said about the circular windows at the end of the south
+transept, and they are undoubtedly elegant: but compared with the one at
+the extremity of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the tale
+attached to them, than from their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, is
+briefly this. These windows were finished (as well as the larger one at the
+west front) about the year 1439. One of them was executed by the
+master-mason, the other by his apprentice; and on being criticised by
+competent judges, the performance of the _latter_ was said to eclipse that
+of the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and revengeful,
+and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned,
+and executed; but an existing monument to his memory attests the humanity
+of the monks in giving him Christian interment.[54] On the whole, it is the
+absence of all obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which gives to the
+interior of this building that light, unencumbered, and faery-like effect
+which so peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that I
+never remember to have felt within any other similar edifice.
+
+Let me however put in a word for the _Organ_. It is immense, and perhaps
+larger than that belonging to the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those of
+the organ in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced the
+pavement beneath, and think that this organ cannot be short of forty
+English feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches which I have yet seen,
+the organs strike me as being of magnificent dimensions.
+
+You should be informed however that the extreme length of the interior,
+from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its opposite western
+extremity, is about four hundred and fifty English feet; while the height,
+from the pavement to the roof of the nave, or the choir, is one hundred and
+eight English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and forty feet in
+length. The central tower, upon the whole, is not only the grandest tower
+in Rouen, but there is nothing for its size in our own country that can
+compare with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof of the
+church; and is supported below, or rather within, by four magnificent
+cluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference. Its
+area, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty-six feet square. The choir
+is flanked by flying buttresses, which have a double tier of small arches,
+altogether "marvellous and curious to behold."
+
+I could not resist stealing quietly round to the porch of the _south
+transept_, and witnessing, in that porch, one of the most chaste, light,
+and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be contemplated.
+Indeed, I hardly know any thing like it.[55] The leaves of the poplar and
+ash were beginning to mantle the exterior; and, seen through their green
+and gay lattice work, the traceries of the porch seemed to assume a more
+interesting aspect. They are now mending the upper part of the façade with
+new stone of peculiar excellence--but it does not harmonise with the old
+work. They merit our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remains
+of this precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern and
+north-eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded with promenades
+and trees: so that, occasionally, either when walking, or sitting upon the
+benches, within these gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginable
+of the abbey.
+
+At this early season of the year, much company is assembled every evening
+in these walks: while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing the
+western end, the national guard is exercised in the day time--and troops of
+fair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening,
+while a platform is erected for the instrumental performers, and for the
+exhibition of feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouen
+without being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to
+"make revel" within the Abbot's house. Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III,
+each took a fancy to this spot--but especially the famous HENRI QUATRE. It
+is reported that that monarch sojourned here for four months--- and his
+reply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved
+both in MS. and by engravings. "The King having arrived at St. Ouen (says
+an old MS.)[56] the keys of the tower were presented to him, in the
+presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a
+velvet-cushion. The keys were gilt. The King took them, and replacing them
+in the hands of the governor, said--"Mon cousin, je vous les baille pour
+les rendre, qu'ils les gardent;"--then, addressing the aldermen, he added,
+"Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi que
+vous ayez jamais eu."
+
+Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, "go by all means and see the church _St.
+Maclou_"--say your friends and your guides. The Abbé Turquier accompanied
+me thither. The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch.
+Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains. This is about 160
+English feet in height. Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet
+in height, constructed of wood and lead--but which has been nearly
+destroyed for the sake of the lead,--for the purpose of slaughter or
+resistance during the late revolution.[57] The exteriors of the porches are
+remarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the _Rue
+Martainville._ They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed
+to be after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they are rather
+encumbered with ornament, and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste,
+which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen.
+However, let critics determine as they will upon this point--they must at
+least unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate
+pieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of
+staring yellow ochre!
+
+Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four: two of them chiefly
+remarkable for their interior, and two for their extreme antiquity. Of the
+two former, that of _St. Vincent_ presents you with a noble organ, with a
+light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent
+taste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich,
+varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen
+of this species of art in the present ecclesiastical remains of the city.
+_St. Vivien_ is the second of these two former. It is a fine open church,
+with a large organ, having a very curious wooden screen in front,
+elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of the
+sixteenth century. I ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to be
+open, I examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre
+edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Such
+pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time,
+within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir: walked
+gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature was
+in the church) and, "with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured to
+open the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide,
+thick, and ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed in
+every respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were extremely
+indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad,
+are open at all times of the day: the ancient or more massive door, or
+portal, is secured from shutting; but a temporary, small, shabby wooden
+door, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular
+hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one.
+
+Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of _St. Gervais_, is
+situated considerably to the north of where the _Boulevards Cauchoise_ and
+_Bouvreuil_ meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman
+historians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses:
+considering it as a _lieu de plaisance._ Here too it was that the Conqueror
+came to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace
+in the city, for the benefit of the pure air.[58] I walked with M. Le
+Prevost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the
+_Crypt_ is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity.
+The same accomplished guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation of
+the capitals of the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in a
+rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character.
+"Perhaps," said M. Le Prevost, "the last efforts of Roman art previous to
+the relinquishment of the Romans." Among these capitals there is one of the
+perfect Doric order; while in another you discover the remains of two Roman
+eagles. The columns are all of the same height; and totally unlike every
+thing of the kind which I have seen or heard of.
+
+We descended the hill upon which _St. Gervais_ is built, and walked onward
+towards _St. Paul_, situated at the further and opposite end of the town,
+upon a gentle eminence, just above the Banks of the Seine.[59] M. Le
+Prevost was still our conductor. This small edifice is certainly of remote
+antiquity, but I suspect it to be completely Norman. The eastern end is
+full of antiquarian curiosities. We observed something like a Roman mask as
+the centre ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; and
+Mr. Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in the
+exterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fashion. The _Saxon whiskers_
+are discoverable upon several of these faces. Upon the whole, it is
+possible that parts of this church may have been built at the latter end of
+the tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves completely masters
+of this part of the kingdom; yet it is more probable that there is no
+vestige left which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of the
+eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of _St. Sever_,[60]
+supposed by some to be yet more ancient: but I had no opportunity of taking
+a particular survey of it.
+
+Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES
+of Rouen. They merit indeed a volume of themselves. This city could once
+boast of upwards of _thirty parish churches_; of which very nearly a
+_dozen_ have been recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into
+_warehouses_. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy mélange--this strange
+misappropriation of what was formerly held most sacred, to the common and
+lowest purposes of civil life! You enter these warehouses, or offices of
+business, and see the broken shaft, the battered capital, and
+half-demolished altar-piece--the gilded or the painted frieze--in the midst
+of bales of goods--casks, ropes, and bags of cotton: while, without, the
+same spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured column, and tottering
+arch way. Thus time brings its changes and decays--premature as well as
+natural: and the noise of the car-men and injunctions of the clerk are now
+heard, where formerly there reigned a general silence, interrupted only by
+the matin or evening chaunt! I deplored this sort of sacrilegious
+adaptation, to a respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doors
+upon a chair, and smoking his pipe--"c'est dommage, Monsieur, qu'on a
+converti l'église à"--He stopped me: raised his left hand: then took away
+his pipe with his right; gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up his
+shoulders, half archly and half drily exclaimed--"Mais que voulez vous,
+Monsieur?--ce sont des événemens qu'on ne peut ni prévoir ni prévenir.
+Voilà ce que c'est!" Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable morceau
+of philosophy, consider me ever, &c.
+
+
+[36] A most ample and correct view of this west front will be found in Mr.
+    _Cotman's Norman Antiquities_.
+
+[37] It is about 180 English feet in width, by about 150 in the highest
+    part of its elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr. Frere's,
+    bookseller, upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois,
+    were very inadequate representations of the building.
+
+[38] The ravages committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of
+    the towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the
+    year 1560, afford a melancholy proof of the effects of RELIGIOUS
+    ANIMOSITY. But the Calvinists were bitter and ferocious persecutors.
+    Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale de
+    Rouen_, 1686, has devoted nearly one hundred pages to an account of
+    Calvinistic depredations.
+
+[39] [Mr. Cotman has a plate of the elevation of the front of this south
+    transept; and a very minute and brilliant one will be found in the
+    previous edition of this Tour--by Mr. Henry le Keux: for which that
+    distinguished Artist received the sum of 100 guineas. The remuneration
+    was well merited.]
+
+[40] [Mons. Licquet says each clustered pillar contains thirty-one
+    columns.]
+
+[41] This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in
+    width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de
+    Champagne, at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering
+    so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the
+    XIVth century: the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the
+    XVth. On completing the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to
+    count not fewer than _twenty-five_ chapels.
+
+[42] [Mons. Licquet is paraphrastically warm in his version, here. He
+    renders it thus: "les atteintes effroyables du vandalisme
+    révolutionaire," vol. i. p. 64.]
+
+[43] Sandford, after telling us that he thinks there "never was any
+    portraiture" of the Duke, thus sums up his character. "He was justly
+    accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed out of the
+    royal stem of PLANTAGENET. His valour was not more terrible to his
+    enemies than his memory honourable; for (doubtful whether with more
+    glory to him, or to the speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh being
+    counselled by certain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with
+    him, saith one, was buried all English men's good fortune in France)
+    used these indeed princely words: 'What honour shall it be to us, or
+    you, to break this monument, and to pull out of the ground the bones
+    of HIM, whom, in his life time, neither my father nor your
+    progenitors, with all their puissance, were once able to make flie a
+    foot backwarde? who, by his strength, policy and wit kept them all out
+    of the principal dominions of France, and out of this noble duchy of
+    Normandy? Wherefore, I say first, GOD SAVE HIS SOUL; and let his body
+    now lie in rest, which when he was alive, would have disquieted the
+    proudest of us all. And for THIS TOMB, I assure you it is not so
+    worthy or convenient as his honour and acts have deserved.'" p. 314-5,
+    Ed. 1707[A] The famous MISSAL, once in the possession of this
+    celebrated nobleman, and containing the only authenticated portrait of
+    him (which is engraved in the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. i. p.
+    cxxxvii.) is now the property of John Milner, Esq. of York Place,
+    Portman Square, who purchased it of the Duke of Marlborough. The Duke
+    had purchased it at the sale of the library of the late James Edwards,
+    Esq. for 687l. 15s.
+
+        [A] [Upon this, Mons. Licquet, with supposed shrewdness and
+        success, remarks,--"All very well: but we must not forget that the
+        innocent Joan of Arc was burnt alive--thanks to this said Duke of
+        Bedford, as every one knows!"]
+
+[44] [A different tale may be told of ONE of his Successors in the same
+    Anglo-Norman pursuit. The expenses attending the graphic
+    embellishments alone of the previous edition of this work, somewhat
+    exceeded the sum of _four thousand seven hundred pounds._ The risk was
+    entirely my own. The result was the loss of about 200l.: exclusively
+    of the expences incurred in travelling about 2000 miles. The
+    _copper-plates_ (notwithstanding every temptation, and many
+    entreaties, to _multiply_ impressions of several of the subjects
+    engraved) were DESTROYED. There may be something more than a mere
+    negative consolation, in finding that the work is RISING in price,
+    although its author has long ceased to partake of any benefit
+    resulting from it.]
+
+[45] A plate of this Monument is published in the Tour of Normandy by
+    Dawson Turner, Esq.
+
+[46] The Cardinal died in his fiftieth year only; and his funeral was
+    graced and honoured by the presence of his royal master. Guicciardini
+    calls him "the oracle and right arm of Louis." Of eight brothers, whom
+    he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His nephew
+    succeeded him as Archbishop. See also _Historia Genealogica Magnatum
+    Franciae_; vol. vii. p. 129; quoted in the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. col. 96.
+
+    It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of
+    Amboise--namely, that of CHARLES of BOURBON--that the _Calvanistic
+    persecution_ commenced. "Tunc vero coepit civitas, dioecesis,
+    universaque provincia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, saevientibus
+    ob religionis dissidia plusquam civilibus bellis," &c. But then the
+    good Archbishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor
+    at _Roncesvalles_, (when he escorted Philip II.'s first wife
+    Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. to the confines of Spain, after he
+    had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the
+    irritated minds of the Calvinists, by BURNING ALIVE, in 1559, _John
+    Cottin_, one of their most eminent preachers, by way of striking
+    terror into the rest! Well might the Chronicler observe, as the
+    result, "novas secta illa in dies acquirebat vires." About 1560-2, the
+    Calvinists got the upper hand; and repaid the Catholics with a
+    vengeance. Charles of Bourbon died in 1590: so that he had an arduous
+    and agitated time of it.
+
+[47] How long will this monument--(matchless of its kind)--continue
+    unrepresented by the BURIN? If Mr. Henry Le Keux were to execute it in
+    his best style, the world might witness in it a piece of Art entirely
+    perfect of its kind. But let the pencils of Messrs. Corbould and Blore
+    be first exercised on the subject. In the mean while, why is GALLIC
+    ART inert?
+
+[48] The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or
+    rather from the space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass
+    grating, full of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments--another
+    testimony of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister
+    of Louis XII.: whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St.
+    George, were seen in the centre of every compartment ... The
+    Revolution has not left a vestige behind!
+
+[49] [In this edition, I put the above passage in _Italics_,--to
+    mark, that, within three years of writing it, the spire was consumed
+    by LIGHTNING. The newspapers of both France and England were full of
+    this melancholy event; and in the year 1823, Monsieur Hyacinthe
+    Langlois, of Rouen, published an account of it, together with some
+    views (indifferently lithographised) of the progress of the burning.
+    "It should seem (says Mons. Licquet) that the author had a
+    presentiment of what was speedily to take place:--for the rest, the
+    same species of destruction threatens all similar edifices, for the
+    want of conductors." I possess a fragment of the lead of the roof, as
+    it was collected after a state of _fusion_--and sent over to me
+    by some friend at Rouen. The fusion has caused portions of the lead to
+    assume a variety of fantastic shapes--not _altogether_ unlike a
+    gothic building.]
+
+[50] Let me add that the whole length of the cathedral is about four
+    hundred and forty feet; and the transept about one hundred and
+    seventy-five; English measure. The height of the nave is about ninety,
+    and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The
+    length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet.
+
+[51] He died in 1531. Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are
+    inserted by Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin; and formerly there was
+    seen, in the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal
+    habited as a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did
+    not outlive the Revolution.
+
+[52] It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses
+
+      _Indivulsa tibi quondam et fidissima conjux
+      Vt fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo_.
+
+    to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have "moved
+    the bile" of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and have excited the
+    taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subsequent connexion,
+    in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second of France. Henry
+    however endeavoured to compensate for his indiscretions by the pomp
+    and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so celebrated of old for the
+    entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been in a perfect blaze of
+    splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana--"qui fut plus magnifique que
+    toutes celles qu'on avoit vu jusqu'alors:" see _Farin's Hist. de la
+    Ville de Rouen_, vol. i. p. 121, where there is a singularly minute
+    and gay account of all the orders and degrees of citizens--(with their
+    gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet hats, rich brocades,
+    and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom the processions were composed.
+    It must have been a perfectly dramatic sight, upon the largest
+    possible scale. It was from respect to the character or the memory of
+    DIANA, that so many plaster-representations of her were erected on the
+    exteriors of buildings: especially of those within small squares or
+    quadrangles. In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old
+    mansions of this kind.
+
+[53] The inscription is this:
+
+      _Si quem sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas,
+      Hic poterit residens, sacris intendere libris_.
+
+    Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossiping chapter [Chap. xxii.]
+    "De la Bibliothêque de la Cathédrale;" p. 163: to which FRANÇOIS DE
+    HARLAY, about the year 1630, was one of the most munificent
+    benefactors.
+
+[54] _Christian interment_.]--"Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de
+    compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la
+    justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu'il leur avoit
+    rendus dans la construction de leur église, nonobstant sa fin
+    tragique, ne laissèrent pas de luy fair l'honneur de l'inhumer dans la
+    chapelle de sainte Agnes, ou sa tombe se voit encore auec cet
+    Epitaphe:
+
+        _Cy gist_ M. ALEXANDRE DE BERNEUAL,
+        _Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie._
+
+[55] Even Dr. Ducarel became warm--on contemplating this porch! "The porch
+    at the south entrance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of
+    the spectator's attention, being highly enriched with architectonic
+    ornaments; particularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the
+    combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from
+    the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing effect." p. 28.
+
+[56] Consult the account given by M. Le Prevost in the "_Précis
+    Analytique des Travaux de l'Academie, &c. de Rouen_," for the year
+    1816, p. 151, &c.
+
+[57] Farin tells us that you could go from the top of the lantern to the
+    cross, or to the summit of the belfry, "outside, without a ladder; so
+    admirable was the workmanship." "Strangers (adds he) took models of it
+    for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they were sold publicly
+    at Rome." _Hist. de la Ville de Rouen_, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154.
+    There are thirteen chapels within this church; of which however the
+    building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the XVIth
+    century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about 155 by
+    82 feet English. Even in Du Four's time the population of this parish
+    was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most
+    regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it--"on
+    va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pavées; et, deux de ces
+    galeries sont decorées de deux autels," &c. p. 150.
+
+    Alas! time--or the revolution--has annihilated all this. Let me
+    however add that M. COTMAN has published a view of the _staircase_ in
+    the church of which I am speaking.
+
+[58] Ordericus Vitalis says, that the dying monarch requested to be
+    conveyed thither, to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town.
+    Rouen is described to be, in _his_ time, "populosa civitas."
+    Consult Duchesne's _Historiæ Normannor. Scrip. Antiq._ p.656.
+
+[59] A view of it is published by M. Cotman.
+
+[60] _St. Sever_. This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs,
+    by the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &c. As
+    you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you leave it
+    to the right; but it is not so old as _St. Paul_--where, Farin says,
+    the worship of ADONIS was once performed!
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE D'ORLEANS (JEANNE D'ARC.)
+BASSO-RILIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR. PALACE AND COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city of Rouen,
+before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of _Mont St.
+Catherine_. We must visit some relics of antiquity, and take a yet more
+familiar survey of the town, ere we strive
+
+  ... superas evadere ad auras.
+
+Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured in its
+acquisition. The only town in England that can give you any notion of
+Rouen, is CHESTER; although the similitude holds only in some few
+particulars. I must, in the first place then, make especial mention of the
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. The _markets_ here are numerous and abundant, and are
+of all kinds. Cloth, cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat,
+corn, and wine; these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle,
+wood, iron, earthenware, seeds, and implements of agriculture; these for
+the supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each market
+has its appropriate site. For picturesque effect, you must visit the _Vieux
+Marché_, for vegetables and fish; which is kept in an open space, once
+filled by the servants and troops of the old Dukes of Normandy, having the
+ancient ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head whence the minor
+markets are supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrella
+spread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat; and, seen from some
+points of view, the effect of all this, with the ever-restless motion of
+the tongues and feet of the vendors, united to their strange attire, is
+exceedingly singular and interesting.
+
+Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the _Marché Neuf_, where
+fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this season of the year there
+is necessarily little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat pocket
+with eggs for less than half a franc. While on the subject of buying and
+selling, let us go to the _Halles_ of _Rouen_; being large public buildings
+now exclusively appropriated to the sale of cloths, linen, and the varied
+_et-ceteras_ of mercery. These are at once spacious and interesting in a
+high degree. They form the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, where
+the markets just mentioned are held; and were formerly the appurtenances of
+the palaces and chateaux of the old Dukes of Normandy: the _latter_ of
+which are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning,
+to witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England: unless
+it be at a similar scene in _Leeds_. By six o'clock the busy world is in
+motion within these halls. Then commences the incessant and inconceivable
+vociferation of buying and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carried
+on in several large stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars in
+the centre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and twenty
+English feet in length, by fifty-five in width. The centre, in each
+division, contains tables and counters for the display of cloth, cotton,
+stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The display of divers colours--the
+commendations bestowed by the seller, and the reluctant assent of the
+purchaser--the animated eye of the former, and the calculating brow of the
+latter--the removal of one set of wares, and the bringing on of another--in
+short, the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights astonishes the
+gravity of an Englishman; whose astonishment is yet heightened by the
+extraordinary good humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the joke,
+the équivoque, and reply, were worth being recorded in pointed metre;--and
+what metre but that of Crabbe could possibly render it justice? By nine of
+the clock all is hushed. The sale is over: the goods are cleared; and both
+buyers and sellers have quitted the scene.
+
+From _still_, let me conduct you to _active_ life. In other words, let us
+hasten to take a peep at the _Horse and Cattle Market_; which is fixed in
+the very opposite part of the town; that is, towards the northern
+Boulevards. The horses are generally entire: and indeed you have scarcely
+any thing in England which exceeds the _Norman horse_, properly so
+understood. This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength
+of his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained; and a
+Norman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough harness upon
+his back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a cart-horse almost buried
+beneath a profusion of ornament by way of collar; and have beheld a
+farmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and
+striking as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. The
+carts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels,
+which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
+wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while the
+eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. On
+market days, the horses stand pretty close to each other for sale; and are
+led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive very
+dexterously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem to
+have an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, seems to
+demand forethought and deliberation.
+
+Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the _Great Clock--(Rue
+de la Grosse Horloge)_ which runs in a straight line from the western front
+of the Cathedral, at right angles with the _Rue des Carmes_, is probably
+the most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our
+entrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to the upper
+part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost in
+admiration at the singularity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and
+enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on one
+side of this arch; over which is sculptured a motley group of insipid
+figures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock
+merits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, on
+looking at it. It was within this old tower that a bell was formerly
+tolled, at nine o'clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to
+return within the walls of the city.[61]
+
+Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, we
+observed a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called _La Place de
+la Pucelle_: that is, the place where the famous JEANNE D'ARC[62] was
+imprisoned, and afterwards burnt. What sensations possess us as we gaze on
+each surrounding object!--although, now, each surrounding object has
+undergone a palpable change! Ah, my friend--what emotions were _once_
+excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind,
+mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge, and the
+exclamations of pity! But life now goes on just the same as if nothing of
+the kind had happened here. The past is forgotten. This hapless Joan of Arc
+is one of the many, who, having been tortured as heretics, have been
+afterwards reverenced as martyrs. Her statue was, not very long after her
+execution, almost _adored_ upon that very spot where her body had been
+consigned with execrations to the flames. The square, in which this statue
+stands, contains probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen--and as
+interesting as it is ancient. It is invisible from without: but you open a
+wooden gate, and quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, having
+three of its sides covered with basso-rilievo figures in plaster. That side
+which faces you is evidently older than the left: indeed I have no
+hesitation in assigning it to the end of the XVth century. The clustered
+ornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the exterior
+is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures,
+chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of the
+same period. The taste which prevails in them is half French and half
+Flemish. Not so is the character of the plaster figures which cover the
+_left_ side on entering. These, my friend, are no less than the
+representation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the
+famous CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has published
+engravings. Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the
+copy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be most
+egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it to be
+worth all the "huge clocks" in Rouen put together. I hardly know how to
+take you from this interesting spot--from this exhibition of beautiful old
+art--especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied the
+mansion, and held a Council here, with both English and French; that his
+bugles once sounded from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets once
+sparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust
+that the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relic
+to perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful representation
+of it.[64]
+
+While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossing
+the _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_, contrive to place you in the centre of the
+square which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider
+this building as the principal _lion_ in their city. It has indeed claims
+to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic
+in Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the entreaty
+of the provincial States, through the interest of the famous Cardinal
+d'Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks the
+restoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of
+architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth,
+this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many
+respects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure
+Grecian--but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are
+running up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the
+Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing,
+taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. The
+external ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and elaborate
+execution; and they seem to be _stuck on_ to the main building without
+rhyme or reason.
+
+The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisoners
+are confined in the lower part of the building to the left: above which you
+mount by a flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularly
+curious hall,[65] about one hundred and seventy-five English feet in
+length--roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a
+most curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This is justly shewn
+and commented upon to the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building are
+devoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost
+every description. The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly in
+the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken a
+very different turn. Upon the whole, this _Town Hall_, or call it what you
+will, is rather a magnificent structure; and certainly superior to most
+provincial buildings of the kind which we possess in England. I should tell
+you that the courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, at
+the south part of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither,
+(and who possesses the choicest library[66] of antiquarian books, of all
+descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see)
+carried me to the _Hall of Commerce_, which, among other apartments,
+contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with
+_fleurs de lys_ upon a light blue ground. It is now however much in need of
+reparation. Fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary to
+harmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which is
+represented the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies
+of the town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well painted
+after the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances. On enquiring how
+many of them were now living, I was told that--ALL WERE DEAD! The fate of
+the _principal_ figure is but too well known. They should have this
+interesting subject--interesting undoubtedly to the inhabitants--executed
+by one of their best engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quite
+in the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I
+have yet seen in painting or in engraving.
+
+It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal for the
+determination of commercial causes, there sits a very respectable Bench of
+Judges: among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the figure, air, and
+countenance, of an Englishman. On enquiry of my guide, I found my
+supposition verified. He _was_ an Englishman; but had been thirty years a
+resident in _Rouen_. The judicial costume is appropriate in every respect;
+but I could not help smiling, the other morning, upon meeting my friend the
+judge, standing before the door of his house, in the open street--with a
+hairy cap on--leisurely smoking his pipe--And wherein consisted the harm of
+such a _delassement_?
+
+
+[61] [I apprehend this custom to be prevalent in fortified towns:--as
+    Rouen _formerly_ was--and as I found such custom to obtain at the
+    present day, at Strasbourg. Mons. Licquet says that the allusion to
+    the curfew--or _couvre-feu_--as appears in the previous
+    edition--and which the reader well knows was established by the
+    Conqueror with us--was no particular badge of the slavery of the
+    English. It had been _previously_ established by William in NORMANDY.
+    Millot is referred to as the authority.]
+
+[62] _the famous_ JEANNE D'ARC.] Goube, in the second volume of his
+    _Histoire du Duché de Normandie_, has devoted several spiritedly
+    written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this
+    heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the English--from
+    earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had been completely
+    prejudged; for that, previously to the sentence being passed, they
+    began to erect "a scaffold of plaster, so raised, that the flames
+    could not at first reach her--and she was in consequence consumed by a
+    slow fire: her tortures being long and horrible." Hume has been rather
+    too brief: but he judiciously observes that the conduct of the Duke of
+    Bedford "was equally barbarous and dishonourable." Indeed it were
+    difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest
+    abhorrence--the imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of
+    Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford?
+
+    The _identical_ spot on which she suffered is not now visible,
+    according to Millin; that place having been occupied by the late
+    _Marché des Veaux_. It was however not half a stone's throw from the
+    site of the present statue. In the _Antiquités Nationales_ of the last
+    mentioned author (vol. iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates
+    connected with the History of JOAN of ARC. The _first_ plate
+    represents the _Porte Bouvreuil_ to the left, and the circular old
+    tower to the right--in which latter Joan was confined, with some
+    houses before it; the middle ground is a complete representation of
+    the rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen
+    are yet surrounded; and French taste has enlivened the foreground with
+    a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling
+    themselves with a flagon of wine. The old circular tower ("qui vit
+    gémir cette infortunée," says Millin) exists no longer. The second
+    plate represents the fountain which was built in the market-place upon
+    the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which spot was at first
+    designated by the erection of a cross. From the style of the
+    embellishments it appears to have been of the time of Francis I.
+
+    Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or demolished
+    in 1755; upon the site of which was built the present tasteless
+    production--resembling, as the author of the _Itinéraire de Rouen_ (p.
+    69) well observes, "rather a Pallas than the heroine of Orleans." The
+    name of the author was STODTS. Millin's _third_ plate--of this present
+    existing fountain, is desirable; in as much as it shews the front of
+    the house, in the interior of which are the basso-rilievos of the
+    _Champ de drap d'Or_: for an account of which see afterwards.
+
+    Millin allows that all PORTRAITS of her--whether in sculpture, or
+    painting, or engraving--are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in
+    point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass window
+    of the church of the _Minimes_ at Chaillot: although the building was
+    not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a
+    copy of some coeval production. In regard to oil paintings, I take it
+    that the portrait of JUDITH, with a sword in one hand, and the head of
+    Holofernes in the other, has been usually copied (with the omission of
+    the latter accompaniment) as that of JEANNE D'ARC. I hardly know a
+    more interesting collection of books than that which may be acquired
+    respecting the fate of this equally brave and unfortunate heroine.
+
+[63] Far be it from me to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon. But those
+    who have not the means of getting at that learned antiquarian's
+    _Monarchie Françoise_ may possibly have an opportunity of examining
+    precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded
+    to, in _Ducarel's Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, Plate XII. Till the year
+    1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was supposed to represent
+    the _Council of Trent_; but the Abbé Noel, happening to find a
+    salamander marked upon the back of one of the figures, supposed, with
+    greater truth, that it was a representation of the abovementioned
+    procession; and accordingly sent Montfaucon an account of the whole.
+    The Abbé might have found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if
+    he had looked closely into this extraordinary exterior; and possibly,
+    in his time, the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of
+    the human features, might not have sustained the injuries which time
+    and accident now seem to have inflicted on them. [A beautiful effort
+    in the graphic way representing the entire interior front of this
+    interesting mansion, is said to be published at Rouen.]
+
+[64] In the previous edition of this work, there appeared a facsimile of a
+    small portion of this bas-relief, representing--as I imagine--the
+    setting out of Francis to meet Henry. Nothing, as far as correctness
+    of detail goes, can give a more faithful resemblance of the PRECISE
+    STATE in which the original appears: the defaced and the entire parts
+    being represented with equal fidelity. Mons. Langlois has given a
+    plate of the entire façade or front--in outline--with great ability;
+    but so small as to give little or no notion of the character of the
+    original.
+
+[65] In Ducarel's time, "the ground story consisted of a great quadrangle
+    surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone staircase
+    led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as well as
+    external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, Westminster Hall.
+    Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of the long robe, in
+    their gowns and bands, walking up and down with briefs in their hands,
+    and making a great show of business." _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_,
+    p. 32. [According to Mons. Licquet, this "singularly curious hall" was
+    begun to be built in 1493. It was afterwards, and is still called,
+    _la Salle des Procureurs_.]
+
+[66] _the choicest library_] Monsieur Riaux, Archiviste de la Chambre
+    de Commerce. This amiable man unites a love of literature with that of
+    architectural antiquities. The library of M. Le Prevost is however as
+    copious as that of Mons. R.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE ROBEC ET
+D'AUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES--GÉNÉRAL ET D'HUMANITÉ.
+
+
+Still tarrying within this old fashioned place? I have indeed yet much to
+impart before I quit it, and which I have no scruple in avowing will be
+well deserving of your attention.
+
+Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the famous
+chemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (_Rue Beauvoisine_) and the yet more
+wonderful spectacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sawing wood of all
+descriptions, into small or large planks, by means of water works--I must
+take you along THE QUAYS for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by an
+architectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the original
+plan, would present us with one of the noblest structures in Europe. This
+stone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. but many and prosperous
+must be the years of art, of commerce, and of peace, before money
+sufficient can be raised for the successful completion of the pile. The
+quays are long, broad, and full of bustle of every description; while in
+some of the contiguous squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth,
+and linen, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of this
+varied and animated scene, walks a well-known character, in his large
+cocked hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemonade or
+coffee, surmounted by a bell--which "ever and anon" is sounded for the sake
+of attracting customers. He is here copied to the life.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid Seine, and
+its _Bridge of Boats_, you cannot help glancing now and then down the
+narrow old-fashioned streets, which run at right angles with the
+quays--with the innumerable small tile-fashioned pieces of wood, like
+scales, upon the roofs--which seem as if they would be demolished by every
+blast. The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together with the bold
+and overwhelming projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford a
+striking contrast to the animated scene upon the quays:--where the sun
+shines with full freedom, as it were; and where the glittering streamers,
+at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and prosperity of the town. If
+the day happen to be fine, you may devote half a morning in contemplating,
+and mingling with, so interesting a scene.
+
+We have had frequent thunder-storms of late; and the other Sunday evening,
+happening to be sauntering at a considerable height above the north-west
+Boulevards, towards the _Faubourg Cauchoise_, I gained a summit, upon the
+edge of a gravel pit, whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitously
+upon the town below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over the
+whole city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it, shining
+like a broad silver chord: while the barren, ascending plains, through
+which the road to Caen passes, were gradually becoming dusk with the
+overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which seemed to be rushing down
+in one immense torrent. The tops of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St.
+Ouen were almost veiled in darkness, by the passing storm; but the lower
+part of the tower, and the whole of the nave of each building, were in one
+stream of golden light--from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In
+ten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober, uniform
+tint of evening; but I can never forget the rich bed of purple and pink,
+fringed with burnished gold, in which the sun of that evening set! I
+descended--absorbed in the recollection of the lovely objects which I had
+just contemplated--and regaled by the sounds of a thousand little gurgling
+streamlets, created by the passing tempest, and hastening to precipitate
+themselves into the Seine.
+
+Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on in Rouen
+with the greatest success, those connected with the _cotton manufactories_
+cannot fail to claim your attention; and I fancied I saw, in some of the
+shop-windows, shawls and gowns which might presume to vie with our
+Manchester and Norwich productions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French
+were extremely partial to British manufactures: and cotton stockings,
+coloured muslins, and what are called ginghams, are coveted by them with
+the same fondness as we prize their cambric and their lace. Their best
+articles in watches, clocks, silver ornaments, and trinkets, are obtained
+from Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois the
+justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare with their
+_escrutoires_ and other articles of furniture made of the walnut tree.
+These upright escrutoires, or writing desks, are in almost every bed-room
+of the more respectable hotels: but of course their polish is gone when
+they become stationary furniture in an inn--for the art of rubbing, or what
+is called _elbow-grease_ with us--is almost unknown on either side of the
+Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine specimen of a side board, or an
+escrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by one of their best
+cabinet-makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and tone of colour are
+equally gratifying; and resemble somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer
+aspect. The _or-molu_ ornaments are tastefully put on; but the general
+shape, or contour, of the several pieces of furniture, struck me as being
+in bad taste.
+
+He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene, connected
+with _trade_, should walk leisurely down the RUE DE ROBEC. It is surely the
+oddest, and as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable: But who
+that has a rational curiosity could resist such a walk? Here live the
+_dyers of clothes_--and in the middle of the street rushes the precipitous
+stream, called _L'Eau de Robec_[67]--receiving colours of all hues. To-day
+it is nearly jet black: to-morrow it is bright scarlet: a third day it is
+blue, and a fourth day it is yellow! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by
+little bridges, communicating with the manufactories, or with that side of
+the street where the work-people live: and the whole has a dismal and
+disagreeable aspect--especially in dirty weather: but if you go to one end
+of it (I think to the east--as it runs east and west) and look down upon
+the descending street, with the overhanging upper stories and roofs--the
+foreshortened, numerous bridges--the differently-coloured dyed clothes,
+suspended from the windows, or from poles--the constant motion of men,
+women, and children, running across the bridges--with the rapid, _camelion_
+stream beneath--you cannot fail to acknowledge that this is one of the most
+singular, grotesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working city of
+Rouen. I ought to tell you that the first famous Cardinal d'Amboise (of
+whom the preceding pages have made such frequent honourable mention) caused
+the _Eau de Robec_ to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from its
+original channel or source in a little valley near _St. Martin du Vivien_.
+Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of these "teinturiers" in the
+Rue de Robec--but they have of late sought more capacious premises in the
+fauxbourgs _de St. Hilaire_ and _de Martainville_. The neighbouring
+sister-stream, _l'Eau d'Aubette_, is destined to the same purposes as that
+of which I have been just discoursing; but I do not at this moment
+recollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a few
+corn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thundering
+noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church of
+St. Maclou, will not be easily forgotten. Thus you see of what various,
+strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise,
+life and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes of
+sea coal:--hilarity and apparent contentment:--the spruce bourgeoise and
+the slattern fille de chambre:--attired in vestments of deep crimson and
+dark blue--every thing flits before you as if touched by magic, and as if
+sorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants.
+
+"Paullò majora canamus." In other words, let us leave the Town for the
+Country. Let us hurry through a few more narrow and crowded alleys, courts,
+and streets--and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to
+enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE.
+CATHARINE.... Indeed, my friend, I sincerely wish that you could have
+accompanied me to the summit of this enchanting eminence: but as you are
+far away, you must be content with a brief description of our little
+expedition thither.[68] The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk,
+is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen;
+or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which the
+city is to be viewed to the greatest possible advantage. It lies to the
+left of the Seine, in your way from the town; and the ascent begins
+considerably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the route to Paris. We
+took an excellent _fiacre_ to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that
+our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities
+immediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon
+commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was not much
+labour or much difficulty: so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on each
+little eminence, our admiration seemed to encrease--till, gaining the
+highest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediately
+above the town and the whole of its environs....
+
+    "Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread around!"
+
+The prospect was indeed "goodly--" being varied, extensive, fertile, and
+luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively backward spring. The city was the
+main object, not only of attraction, but of astonishment. Although the
+point from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with
+the summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as
+it were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw each
+church, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we began to think
+we could discover almost every individual stirring in them. The soldiers,
+exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two
+stones' throw from us; while the sounds of their music reached us in the
+most distinct and gratifying manner. No "Diable boiteux" could ever have
+transported a "Don Cleophas Léandro Perez Zambullo" to a more favourable
+situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a city; and if the houses
+had been unroofed, we could have almost discerned whether the _escrutoires_
+were made of mahogany or walnut-wood! This wonder-working effect proceeds
+from the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence of
+sea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue--the generality of the roofs were
+also composed of blue slate: this, added to the incipient verdure of the
+boulevards, and the darker hues of the trunks of the trees, upon the
+surrounding hills--the lengthening forests to the left, and the numerous
+white "maisons de plaisance"[69] to the right--while the Seine, with its
+hundred vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you--with
+its cultivated little islands--and the sweeping meadows or race-ground[70]
+on the other side--all, or indeed any, of these objects could not fail to
+excite our warmest admiration, and to make us instinctively exclaim "that
+such a panorama was perfectly unrivalled!"
+
+We descended Mont Ste. Catharine on the side facing the _Hospice Général_:
+a building of a very handsome form, and considerable dimensions. It is a
+noble establishment for foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes.
+I was told that not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings were
+sheltered in this asylum; a number, which equally astonished and delighted
+me. The descent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing; being
+composed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of trees and
+shrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred yards from the
+hospital. The architecture of this extensive building is more mixed than
+that of its neighbour the _Hospice d'Humanité_, on account of the different
+times in which portions of it were added: but, upon the whole, you are
+rather struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence of
+style. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good breeding of
+its motley inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly, with their arms behind
+them, between rows of trees:--others were tranquilly sitting upon benches:
+a third group would be in motion within the squares of the building: a
+fourth appeared in deep consultation whether the _potage_ of to day were
+not inferior to that of the preceding day?--"Que cherchez vous, Monsieur?"
+said a fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off, his cocked hat;
+"I wish to see the Abbé Turquier,"--rejoined I. "Ah, il vient de
+sortir--par ici, Monsieur." "Thank you." "Monsieur je vous souhaite le bon
+jour--au plaisir de vous revoir!" And thus I paced through the squares of
+this vast building. The "Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie would
+have seized with avidity, and copied with inimitable spirit and fidelity.
+
+
+[67] Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being
+    "aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleüe, violée & autres
+    couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus, la
+    diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures." _Antiquitez
+    de Caen_, p. 36.
+
+[68] _expedition thither_.]--When John Evelyn visited this
+    neighbourhood, in 1644, "the country so abounded with _wolves_, that a
+    shepherd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was
+    strangled by one of them the day before--and that, in the midst of the
+    flock! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and
+    apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with
+    quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance." _Memoirs of
+    the Life and Writings of John Evelyn_, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1818. My
+    friend Mr. J. H. Markland visited Mont St. Catharine the year after
+    the visit above described. He was of course enchanted with the view;
+    and told me, that a friend whom he met there, and who had travelled
+    pretty much in Italy, assured him there was nothing like it on the
+    banks of either the _Arno_ or the _Po_. In short, it is quite peculiar
+    to itself--and cannot be surpassed.
+
+[69] It is thus prettily observed in the little _Itineraire de Rouen_
+    --"Ces agréables maisons de plaisance appartiennent à des habitants de
+    Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison, se délasser des
+    embarras de la ville et des fatigues du commerce." p. 153.
+
+[70] _race-ground_]--When the English cavalry were quartered here in
+    1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each
+    other. These races were gaily attended by the inhabitants; and I
+    heard, from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations bestowed
+    upon the fleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOK
+COLLECTORS.
+
+
+Now for a little gossip and chit-chat about _Paper, Ink, Books,
+Printing-Offices_, and curiosities of a GRAPHIC description. Perhaps the
+most regular method would be to speak of a few of the principal _Presses_,
+before we take the _productions_ of these presses into consideration. And
+first, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen.[71] The art of printing is
+supposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of the name of MAUFER,
+between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen _Missals_
+and _Breviaries_, especially of those by MORIN, who was the second printer
+in this city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, and
+rather striking, is here enclosed for your gratification.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Few provincial towns have been more fertile in typographical productions;
+and the reputation of TALLEUR, GUALTIER, and VALENTIN, gave great
+respectability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+Yet I am not able to ascertain whether these presses were very fruitful in
+Romances, Chronicles, and Old Poetry. I rather think, however, that they
+were not deficient in this popular class of literature, if I am to judge
+from the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of the
+curious. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could never repress the
+natural love of the French, from time immemorial, for light and fanciful
+reading.
+
+You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old courts,
+by-lanes, and unfrequented corners--in search of what is curious, or
+precious, or rare in the book way. But ere we touch that enchanting chord,
+let us proceed according to the plan laid down. First therefore for
+printing-offices. Of these, the names of PÉRIAUX, (_Imprimeur de
+l'Academie_,) BAUDRY, (_Imprimeur du Roi_) MÉGARD, (_Rue Martainville_) and
+LECRENE-LABBEY, (_Imprimeur-Libraire et Marchand de Papiers_) are masters
+of the principal presses; but such is the influence of Paris, or of
+metropolitan fashions, that a publisher will sometimes prefer getting his
+work printed at the capital.[72] Of the foregoing printers, it behoves me
+to make some mention; and yet I can speak personally but of two: Messieurs
+Périaux and Mégard. M. Periaux is printer to the _Académie des Sciences,
+Belles-Lettres et Arts de Rouen_, of which academy, indeed, he is himself
+an accomplished member. He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and obliging
+to the last degree; and may be considered the _Henry Stephen_ of the Rouen
+Printers. He urged me to call often: but I could visit him only twice. Each
+time I found him in his counting house, with his cap on--shading his eyes:
+a pen in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoiced
+at seeing me, I could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, he
+wished me to "say my saying quickly,"[73] and to leave him to his _deles_
+and _stets_! He has a great run of business, and lives in one of those
+strange, old-fashioned houses, in the form of a square, with an outside
+spiral staircase, so common in this extraordinary city. He introduced me to
+his son, an intelligent young man--well qualified to take the labouring
+oar, either upon the temporary or permanent retirement of his parent.[74]
+
+Of Monsieur MÉGARD, who may be called the ancient _Jenson_, or the modern
+_Bulmer_, of Rouen, I can speak only in terms of praise--both as a civil
+gentleman and as a successful printer. He is doubtless the most elegant
+printer in this city; and being also a publisher, his business is very
+considerable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among the
+neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the fruits of
+his enterprise and industry. On my first visit, M. Mégard was from home;
+but Madame, "son épouse, l'attendoit à chaque moment!" There is a
+particular class of women among the French, which may be said to be
+singularly distinguished for their intelligence, civility, and good
+breeding. I mean the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus I found
+it, in addition to a hundred similar previous instances, with Madame
+Mégard. "Mais Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?" "I
+wish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am an enthusiastic
+lover of the art of printing. I search every where for skilful printers,
+and thus it is that I come to pay my respects to Monsieur Mégard." We both
+sat down and conversed together; and I found in Madame Mégard a
+communicative, and well-instructed, representative of the said ancient
+Jenson, or modern Bulmer. "Enfin, voilà mon mari qui arrive"--said Madame,
+turning round, upon the opening of the door:--when I looked forward, and
+observed a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a countenance
+perfectly English--but accoutred in the dress of the _national guard_, with
+a grenadier cap on his head. Madame saw my embarrassment: laughed: and in
+two minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit. He began by
+expressing his dislike of the military garb: but admitted the absolute
+necessity of adopting such a measure as that of embodying a national guard.
+"Soyez le bien venu; Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible, Monsieur, de
+l'honneur que vous me faites--vû que vous êtes antiquaire typographique, et
+que vous avez publié des ouvrages relatifs à notre art. Mais ce n'est pas
+ici qu'il faut en chercher de belles épreuves. C'est à Paris."
+
+I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well acquainted with
+the fine productions of _Didot_, and had also seen the less aspiring ones
+of himself; of which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen might be
+proud. This I spoke with the utmost sincerity. My first visit concluded
+with two elegant little book-presents, on the part of M. Megard--one being
+_Heures de Rouen, à l'usage du Diocese_, 1814, 12mo. and the other
+_Etrennes nouvelles commodes et utiles_; 1815, 12mo.--the former bound in
+green morocco; and the latter in calf, with gilt leaves, but printed on a
+sort of apricot-tinted paper--producing no unpleasing effect. Both are
+exceedingly well executed. My visits to M. Mégard were rather frequent. He
+has a son at the Collége Royale, or Lycée, whither I accompanied him, one
+Sunday morning, and took the church of that establishment in the way. It is
+built entirely in the Italian style of architecture: is exceedingly
+spacious: has a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I saw
+in it, although by no means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that it
+is in churches of _Roman_, and not of _Gothic_ architecture, that paintings
+produce the most harmonious effect. This college and church form a noble
+establishment, situated in one of the most commanding eminences of the
+town. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbey
+of St. Ouen, with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hills
+and woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriously
+picturesque manner.
+
+But the printer who does the most business--or rather whose business lies
+in the lower department of the art, in bringing forth what are called _chap
+books_--is LECRENE-LABBEY--_imprimeur-libraire et marchand de papiers_. The
+very title imports a sort of _Dan Newberry's_ repository. I believe however
+that Lecrêne-Labbey's business is much diminished. He once lived in the
+_Rue de la Grosse-Horloge_, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in one
+of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the premises he
+now occupies were once an old church or monastery, and that a thousand
+fluttering sheets are now suspended, where formerly was seen the solemn
+procession of silken banners, with religious emblems, emblazoned in colours
+of all hues. I called at the old shop, and supplied myself with a dingy
+copy of the _Catalogue de la Bibliothéque Bleue_--from which catalogue
+however I could purchase but little; as the greater part of the old books,
+several of the _Caxtonian stamp_, had taken their departures. It was from
+this Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the works destined
+for common reading; and from hence inferred, what I stated to you a little
+time ago, that _Romances, Rondelays_, and chivalrous stories, are yet read
+with pleasure by the good people of France. It is, in short, from this
+lower, or _lowest_ species of literature--if it must be so designated--that
+we gather the real genius, or mental character of the ordinary classes of
+society. I do assure you that some of these _chap_ publications are
+singularly droll and curious. Even the very rudiments of learning, or the
+mere alphabet-book, meets the eye in a very imposing manner--as in the
+following facsimile.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Love, Marriage_, and _Confession_, are fertile themes in these little
+farthing chap books. Yonder sits a fille de chambre, after her work is
+done. She is intent upon some little manual, taken from the _Bibliothèque
+Bleue_. Approach her, and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, and
+readily shews you _Catéchisme à l'usage des Grandes Filles pour être
+Mariées; ensemble la manière d'attirer les Amans_. At the first glance of
+it, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to end, a wild and
+probably somewhat indecorous manual of instruction. By no means; for read
+the _Litanies_ and _Prayer_ with which it concludes, and which I here send;
+admitting that they exhibit a strange mixture of the simple and the
+serious.
+
+    LITANIES.
+
+    _Pour toutes les Filles qui désirent entrer en menage_.
+
+    _Kyrie,_ je voudrois,
+    _Christe_, être mariée.
+    _Kyrie_, je prie tous les Saints,
+    _Christe_, que ce soin demain.
+    _Sainte Marie_, tout le Monde se marie.
+    _Saint Joseph_, que vous ai-je fait?
+    _Saint Nicolas_, ne m'oubliez pas.
+    _Saint Médérie_, que j'aie un bon mari.
+    _Saint Matthieu_, qu'il craigne Dieu.
+    _Saint Jean_, qu'il m'aime tendrement.
+    _Saint Bruno_, qu'il soit juli & beau.
+    _Saint Francois_, qu'il me soit fidele.
+    _Saint André_, qu'il soit à mon gré.
+    _Saint Didier_, qu'il aime à travailler.
+    _Saint Honoré_, qu'il n'aime pas à jouer.
+    _Saint Severin_, qu'il n'aime pas le vin.
+    _Saint Clément_, qu'il soit diligent.
+    _Saint Sauveur_, qu'il ait bon coeur.
+    _Saint Nicaise_, que je sois à mon aise.
+    _Saint Josse_, qu'il me donne un carrosse.
+    _Saint Boniface_, que mon mariage se fasse,
+    _Saint Augustin_, dès demain matin.
+
+    ORAISON.
+
+    Seigneur, qui avez formé Adam de la terre, et qui lui avez
+    donné Eve pour sa compagne; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un
+    bon mari pour compagnon, non pour la volupté, mais pour vous
+    honorer & avoir des enfants qui vous bénissent. Ainsi soit il.
+
+Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a singularly
+amusing little manual called "_La Confession de la Bonne Femme_." It is
+really not divested of merit. Whether however it may not have been written
+during the Revolution, with a view to ridicule the practice of auricular
+confession which yet obtains throughout France, I cannot take upon me to
+pronounce; but there are undoubtedly some portions of it which seem so
+obviously to satirise this practice, that one can hardly help drawing a
+conclusion in the affirmative. On the other hand it may perhaps be
+inferred, with greater probability, that it is intended to shew with what
+extreme facility a system of _self-deception_ may be maintained.[75]
+Referring however to the little manual in question, among the various
+choice morceaus which it contains, take the following extracts:
+exemplificatory of a woman's _evading the main points of confession_.
+
+    _Confesseur_. Ne voulez vous pas me répondre; en un mot, combien
+    y a-t-il de temps que vous ne vous êtes confessée?
+
+    _La Pénitente._ Il y a un mois tout juste, car c'étoit le
+    quatrième jour du mois passé, & nous sommes au cinquième du mois
+    courant; or comptez, mon pere, & vous trouverez justement que ...
+
+    C. C'est assez, ne parlez point tant, & dites moi en peu de mots vos
+    péchés.
+
+    _Elle raconte les péchés d'autrui._
+
+    _La Pénitente_. J'ai un enfant qui est le plus méchant garçon que
+    vous ayez jamais vu: il jure, bat sa soeur, il fuit l'école, dérobe
+    tout ce qu'il peut pour jouer; il suit de méchans fripons: l'autre
+    jour en courant il perdit son chapeau. Enfin, c'est un méchant garçon,
+    je veux vous l'amener afin que vous me l'endoctriniez un peu s'il vous
+    plaît.
+
+    C. Dites-moi vos péchés.
+
+    P. Mais, mon père, j'ai une fille qui est encore pire. Je ne la peux
+    faire lever le matin: Je l'appelle cent fois: _Marguerite: plait-il ma
+    Mere? lève-toi promptement et descends: j'y vais_. Elle ne bouge pas.
+    _Si tu ne viens maintenant, tu seras battue._ Elle s'en moque. Quand
+    je l'envoie à la Ville, je lui dis _reviens promptement, ne t'amuse
+    pas_. Cependant, elle s'arrête à toutes les portes comme l'âne d'un
+    meûnier, elle babille avec tous ceux qu'elle rencontre; & quand elle
+    me fait cela, je la bats: ne fais-je pas bien, mon père?
+
+    C. Dites-moi _vos_ péchés et non pas ceux de _vos enfans_.
+
+    P. Il se trouve, mon père, que nous avons dans notre rue une voisine
+    qui est la plus méchante de toutes les femmes: elle jure, elle
+    querelle tous ceux qui passent, personne ne la peut souffrir, ni son
+    mari, ni ses enfans, & bien souvent elle s'enivre, & vous me dites,
+    mon père, quelle est celle-la? c'est ...
+
+    C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer; car à la confession il ne faut
+    jamais fair connoitre les personnes dont vous déclarez les péchés.
+
+    P. C'est elle qui vient se confesser après moi: grondez-la bien, car
+    vous ne lui en sauriez trop dire.
+
+    C. Taisez-vous donc, & ne parlez que de _vos_ péchés, non pas de ceux
+    _des autres_.
+
+    _Elle s'accuse de ce qui n'est point péché._
+
+    _Pénitente_.--Ah! mon père, j'ai fait un grand péché, ah! le
+    grand péché! Hélas je serai damnée, quoique mon confesseur m'ait
+    defendu de le dire j'amais, néanmoins mon père je vais vous le
+    declarer.
+
+    C. Ne le dites point, puisque votre confesseur vous l'a defendu, je ne
+    veux point l'entendre.
+
+    P. Ah! n'importe; je veux vous le dire, c'est un trop grand péché:
+    J'ai battu ma mère.
+
+    C. Vous avez battu votre mère! Ah! misérable, c'est un cas réservé &
+    un crime qui mérite la potence. Et quand l'avez-vous battue?
+
+    P. Quand j'étois petite de l'âge de quatre ans.
+
+    C. Ah! simple, ne savez-vous pas que tout ce que les enfans font avant
+    l'âge de raison, qui est environ l'âge de sept ans, ne sauroit être un
+    péché.
+
+There is however one thing, which I must frankly declare to you as entitled
+to distinct notice and especial commendation. It is, the method of teaching
+"catechisms" of a different and higher order: I mean the CHURCH CATECHISMS.
+Both the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels.
+Within these side chapels are collected, on stated days of the week, the
+young of both sexes. They are arranged in a circle. A priest, in his white
+robes, is seated, or stands, in the centre of them. He examines, questions,
+corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls for it. His manner is
+winning and persuasive. His action is admirable. The lads shew him great
+respect, and are rarely rude, or seen to laugh. Those who answer well, and
+pay the greater attention, receive, with words of commendation, gentle pats
+upon the head--and I could not but consider the blush, with which this mark
+of favour was usually received, as so many presages of future excellence in
+the youth. I once witnessed a most determined catechetical lecture of
+girls; who might be called, in the language of their matrimonial catechism,
+"de grandes filles." It was on an evening, in the Chapel of Our Lady in St.
+Ouen's Abbey, that this examination took place. Two elderly priests
+attended. The responses of the females were as quick as they were correct;
+the eye being always invariably fixed on the pavement, accompanied with a
+gravity and even piety of expression. A large group of mothers, with
+numerous spectators, were in attendance. A question was put, to which a
+supposed incorrect response was given. It was repeated, and the same answer
+followed. The priest hesitated: something like vexation was kindling in his
+cheek, while the utmost calmness and confidence seemed to mark the
+countenance of the examinant. The attendant mothers were struck with
+surprise. A silence for one minute ensued. The question related to the
+"Holy Spirit." The priest gently approached the girl, and softly
+articulated--"Mais, ma chère considerez un peu,"--and repeated the
+question. "Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil) j'ai bien
+considerée, et je crois que c'est comme je vous l'ai déjà dit." The Priest
+crossed his hands upon his breast ... brought down his eyebrows in a
+thoughtful mood ... and turning quickly round to the girl, addressed her in
+the most affectionate tone of voice--"Ma petite,--tu as bien dit; et
+j'avois tort." The conduct of the girl was admirable: She curtsied,
+blushed... and with eyes, from which tears seemed ready to start, surveyed
+the circle of spectators ... caught the approving glance of her mother, and
+sunk triumphantly upon her chair--with the united admiration of teachers,
+companions, parents and spectators! The whole was conducted with the most
+perfect propriety; and the pastors did not withdraw till they were fairly
+exhausted. A love of truth obliges me to confess that this reciprocity of
+zeal, on the part of master and pupil, is equally creditable to both
+parties; and especially serviceable to the cause of religion and morality.
+
+Let me here make honourable mention of the kind offices of _Monsieur
+Longchamp_, who volunteered his friendly services in walking over half the
+town with me, to shew me what he justly considered as the most worthy of
+observation. It is impossible for a generous mind to refuse its testimony
+to the ever prompt kindness of a well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you all
+the services in his power. Enquire the way,--and you have not only a finger
+quickly pointing to it, but the owner of the finger must also put himself
+in motion to accompany you a short distance upon the route, and that too
+uncovered! "Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre chapeau ... je vous en prie ...
+mille pardons." "Monsieur ne dites pas un seul mot ... pour mon chapeau,
+qu'il reste à son aise."
+
+Among book-collectors, Antiquaries, and Men of Taste, let me speak with
+becoming praise of the amiable and accomplished M. AUGUSTE LE PREVOST--who
+is considered, by competent judges, to be the best antiquary in Rouen.[76]
+Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in our own country, synonymous with all that is
+liberal and enlightened in matters of virtù) was so obliging as to give me
+a letter of introduction to him; and he shewed me several rare and splendid
+works, which were deserving of the commendations that they received from
+their owner.
+
+M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains of Roman masonry at Rouen;
+but he will not be displeased to see that the only existing relics of the
+castle or town walls, have been copied by the pencil of a late travelling
+friend. What you here behold is probably of the fourteenth century.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The next book-collector in commendation of whom I am bound to speak, is
+MONSIEUR DUPUTEL; a member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of the _Academy of
+Belles-Lettres_ at Rouen. The Abbé Turquier conducted me thither; and I
+found, in the owner of a choice collection of books, a well-bred gentleman,
+and a most hearty bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small library; but,
+withal, some very curious, scarce, and interesting volumes. M. Duputel is
+smitten with that amiable passion,--the love of printing for _private
+distribution_--thus meriting to become a sort of Roxburghe Associate. He
+was so good as to beg my acceptance of the "nouvelle édition" of his
+"_Bagatelles Poétiques,"_ printed in an octavo volume of about 112 pages,
+at Rouen, in 1816. On taking it home, I discovered the following not
+infelicitous version of our Prior's beautiful little Poem of _the Garland_.
+
+  _La Guirlande_.
+
+  _Traduction de l'Anglais de Prior_.
+
+  Pour orner de Chloé les cheveux ondoyans,
+    Parmi les fleurs nouvellement écloses
+    J'avais choisi les lis les plus brillans,
+  Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraîches roses.
+
+  Ma Chloé sur son front les plaça la matin:
+      Alors on vit céder sans peine,
+    Leur vif éclat à celui de son teint,
+    Leur doux parfum à ceux de son haleine.
+
+  De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient s'embellir,
+  Et sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les bergères
+  Les voyaient se faner avec plus de plaisir
+  Qu'ils ne les voyaient naître au milieu des parterres.
+
+    Mais, le soir, quand leur sein flétri
+  Eut cessé d'exhaler son odeur séduisante,
+    Elle fixa, d'un regard attendri,
+  Cette guirlande, hélas! n'aguères si brillante.
+
+  Des larmes aussi-tôt coulent de ses beaux yeux.
+    Que d'éloquence dans ces larmes!
+  Jamais pour l'exprimer, le langage des dieux,
+  Tout sublime qu'il est, n'aurait assez de charmes.
+
+  En feignant d'ignorer ce tendre sentiment;
+    "Pourquoi," lui dis-je, "ô ma sensible amie,
+  Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement
+  Abandonner ton ame à la melancholie?"
+
+  "Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent tristement?"
+  Me dit, en soupirant, ce moraliste aimable,
+    "De leur fraîcheur, en un moment,
+  S'est éclipsé le charme peu durable.
+
+    Tel est, hélas! notre destin;
+  Fleur de beauté ressemble à celles des prairies;
+  On les voit toutes deux naître avec le matin,
+    Et dès le soir être flétries.
+
+  Estelle hier encor brillait dans nos hameaux,
+  Et l'amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces;
+  De la mort, aujourd'hui, I'impitoyable faulx
+    A moissonné sa jeunesse et ses graces.
+
+  Soumise aux mêmes lois, peut-être que demain,
+  Comme elle aussi, Damon, j'aurai cessé de vivre....
+  Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin
+    Auquel ton amante se livre."
+
+  p. 92.
+
+The last and not the least of book-collectors, which I have had an
+opportunity of visiting, is MONSIEUR RIAUX. With respect to what may be
+called a ROUENNOISE LIBRARY, that of M. Riaux is greatly preferable to any
+which I have seen; although I am not sure whether M. Le Prevost's
+collection contain not nearly as many books. M. Riaux is himself a man of
+first-rate book enthusiasm; and unites the avocations of his business with
+the gratification of his literary appetites, in a manner which does him
+infinite honour. A city like Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants;
+and the government, when it begins to breathe a little from recent
+embarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and support that finest of all
+patriotic feelings,--a desire to preserve the RELICS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS
+of PAST AGES. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in objects which may
+gratify the most unbounded passion in this pursuit. It is the country where
+formerly the harp of the minstrel poured forth some of its sweetest
+strains; and the lay and the fabliaux of the twelfth and thirteenth
+centuries, which delight us in the text of Sainte Palaye, and in the
+versions of Way, owed their existence to the combined spirit of chivalry
+and literature, which never slumbered upon the shores of Normandy.
+
+Farewell now to ROUEN.[77] I have told you all the tellings which I thought
+worthy of communication. I have endeavoured to make you saunter with me in
+the streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and the churches. We have, in
+imagination at least, strolled together along the quays, visited the halls
+and public buildings, and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Catharine upon
+the enchanting view of the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. We
+have from thence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed a
+country equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our hearts, from
+that same height, have wished all manner of health, wealth, and prosperity,
+to a land thus abounding in corn and wine, and oil and gladness. We have
+silently, but sincerely prayed, that swords may for ever be "turned into
+plough-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks:"--that all heart-burnings,
+antipathies, and animosities, may be eternally extinguished; and that, from
+henceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend to
+establish, upon a firmer footing, and upon a more comprehensive scale, the
+peace and happiness of fellow-creatures, of whatever persuasion they may
+be:--of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual and of
+national improvement, and blend the duties of social order with the higher
+calls of morality and religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolish
+thoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in an honest heart,
+which, seeing that all creation is animated and upheld by ONE and the SAME
+POWER, cannot but ardently hope that ALL may be equally benefited by a
+reliance upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descended
+somewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled in
+flower-gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors of
+works--both of the dead and of the living. So now, fare you well. Commend
+me to your family and to our common friends,--especially to the Gorburghers
+should they perchance enquire after their wandering Vice President. Many
+will be the days passed over, and many the leagues traversed, ere I meet
+them again. Within twenty-four hours my back will be more decidedly turned
+upon "dear old England"--for that country, in which her ancient kings once
+held dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said _acre_) is
+equally interesting to the antiquary and the agriculturist. I salute you
+wholly, and am yours ever.
+
+
+[71] The reader may possibly not object to consult two or three pages of
+    the _Bibliographical Decameron_, beginning at page 137, vol. ii.
+    respecting a few of the early Rouen printers. The name of MAUFER,
+    however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled _Gaietanus
+    de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor. Libros_, of the
+    date of 1476--in the possession of Earl Spencer. See _Æd.
+    Althorp_. vol. ii. p. 134. From the colophon of which we can only
+    infer that Maufer was a _citizen of Rouen_. [According to M.
+    Licquet, the first book printed at Rouen--a book of the greatest
+    rarity--was entitled _Les Croniques de Normandie, par Guillaume Le
+    Talleur_, 1487, folio.]
+
+[72] [Since the publication of the first edition of this Tour, I have had
+    _particular_ reason to become further acquainted with the
+    partiality of the Rouennois for Parisian printing. When M. Licquet did
+    me the honour to translate my IXth Letter, subjoining notes, (which
+    cut their own throats instead of that of the author annotated upon) he
+    employed the press of Mons. Crapelet, at Paris: a press, as eminently
+    distinguished for its beauty and accuracy, as its Director has proved
+    himself to be for his narrow-mindedness and acrimony of feeling. M.L.
+    (as I learnt from a friend who conversed with him, and as indeed I
+    naturally expected) seemed to be sorry for what he had done.]
+
+[73] _like Aldus, "say my saying" quickly_.] Consult Mr. Roscoe's
+    _Life of Leo X._ vol. i. p. 169-70, 8vo. edit. Unger, in his Life
+    of Aldus, _edit. Geret._ p. xxxxii. has a pleasant notice of an
+    inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of his
+    printing-office by Aldus. [It has been quoted to satiety, and I
+    therefore omit it here.]
+
+[74] [Mons. Périaux has lately published a Dictionary of the Streets of
+    Rouen, in alphabetical order; in two small, unostentatious, and useful
+    octavo volumes.]
+
+[75] [Mons. Licquet translates the latter part of the above passage
+    thus:--"avec quelle facilité nous parvenons à nous abuser
+    nous-mêmes,"--adding, in a note, as follows: "J'avais d'abord vu un
+    tout autre sens dans la phrase anglaise. Si celui que j'adopte n'était
+    pas encore le veritable, j'en demande sincèrement pardon à l'auteur."
+    In turn, I may not be precisely informed of the meaning and force of
+    the verb "_abuser_"--used by my translator: but I had been better
+    satisfied with the verb _tromper_--as more closely conveying the sense
+    of the original.]
+
+[76] M. Le Prevost is a belles-lettres Antiquary of the highest order. His
+    "Mémoire faisant suite à l'Essai sur les Romans historiques du moyen
+    âge" may teach modern Normans not to despair when death shall have
+    laid low their present oracle the ABBE DE LA RUE. [I am proud, in
+    this second edition of my Tour, to record the uninterrupted
+    correspondence and friendship of this distinguished Individual; and I
+    can only regret, in common with several friends, that M. Le Prevost
+    will not summon courage sufficient to visit a country, once in such
+    close connexion with his own, where a HEARTY RECEPTION has long
+    awaited him.]
+
+[77] [The omission, in this place, of the entire IXth Letter, relating to
+    the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Rouen, must be accounted for, and it is hoped,
+    approved, on the principle laid down at the outset of this
+    undertaking; namely, to omit much that was purely bibliographical, and
+    of a secondary interest to the general Reader. The bibliography, in
+    the original IXth Letter, being of a partial and comparatively dry
+    description--as relating almost entirely to ancient volumes of Church
+    Rituals--was thought to be better omitted than abridged. Another
+    reason might be successfully urged for its omission.
+
+    This IXth Letter, which comprehends 22 pages in the previous
+    impression, and about 38 pages in the version, having been translated
+    and _separately_ published in 1821, by Mons. Licquet (who
+    succeeded M. Gourdin as Principal Librarian of the Library in
+    question) I had bestowed upon it particular attention, and entered
+    into several points by way of answer to his remarks, and in
+    justification or explanation of the original matter. In consequence,
+    any _abridgement_ of that original matter must have led to
+    constant notice of the minute remarks, and pigmy attacks, of my
+    critical translator: and the stream of intelligence in the text might
+    have been diverted, or rendered unpalatable, by the observations, in
+    the way of controversy, in the notes. If M. Licquet considers this
+    avowal as the proclaiming of his triumph, he is welcome to the laurels
+    of a Conqueror; but if he can persuade any COMMON FRIENDS that, in the
+    translation here referred to, he has defeated the original author in
+    one essential position--or corrected him in one flagrant inaccuracy--I
+    shall be as prompt to thank him for his labours, as I am now to
+    express my astonishment and pity at his undertaking. When M. Licquet
+    put forth the brochure in question--(so splendidly executed in the
+    press of M. Crapelet--to harmonise, in all respects, with the large
+    paper copies of the original English text) he had but recently
+    occupied the seat of his Predecessor. I can commend the zeal of the
+    newly-appointed Librarian in Chief; but must be permitted to question
+    alike his judgment and his motives.
+
+    One more brief remark in this place. My translator should seem to
+    commend what is only laudatory, in the original author, respecting his
+    countrymen. Sensitively alive to the notice of their smallest defects,
+    he has the most unbounded powers of digestion for that of their
+    excellences. Thus, at the foot of the ABOVE PASSAGE, in the text,
+    Mons. Licquet is pleased to add as follows--in a note: "Si M. Dibdin
+    ne s'était livré qu'à des digressions de cette nature, il aurait
+    trouvé en France un chorus universel, un concert de voeux unanimes:"
+    vol. i. p. 239. And yet few travellers have experienced a more cordial
+    reception, and maintained a more _harmonious_ intercourse, than
+    HE, who, from the foregoing quotation, is more than indirectly
+    supposed to have provoked opposition and _discord!_]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGE DE BOSCHERVILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THE
+ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC.
+
+_May_, 1818.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND.
+
+
+In spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian attractions, the
+CITY OF ROUEN must be quitted--and I am about to pursue my route more in
+the character of an independent traveller. No more _Diligence_, or
+_Conducteur_. I have hired a decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, and
+a yet more promising postilion: and have already made a delightfully rural
+migration. Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhanging
+roofs, narrow streets, cracking whips, the never-ceasing noise of carts and
+carriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses of
+population:--Adieu!--and in their stead, welcome be the winding road, the
+fertile meadow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the broad and sweeping
+Seine!
+
+Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten and eleven,
+A.M. the rattling of horses' hoofs, and the echoes of a postilion's whip,
+were heard within the court-yard of the _Hôtel Vatel_. Monsieur, Madame,
+Jacques--and the whole fraternity of domestics, were on the alert--"pour
+faire les adieux à Messieurs les Anglois." This Jacques deserves somewhat
+of a particular notice. He is the prime minister of the Hôtel Vatel.[78] A
+somewhat _uncomfortable_ detention in England for five years, in the
+character of "prisoner of war," has made him master of a pretty quick and
+ready utterance of common-place phrases in our language; and he is not a
+little proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider him
+quite a phenomenon in his way; and it is right you should know that he
+affords a very fair specimen of a sharp, clever, French servant. His bodily
+movements are nearly as quick as those of his tongue. He rises, as well as
+his brethren, by five in the morning; and the testimonies of this early
+activity are quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats,
+singing French airs, and scolding the boot-boy. He rarely retires to rest
+before mid-night; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round of
+occupation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to be
+conscious of it--declaring that "the English make him saucy, but that
+naturally he is very civil." He always speaks of human beings in the
+_neuter_ gender; and to a question whether such a one has been at the
+Hotel, he replies, "I have not seen _it_ to-day." I am persuaded he is a
+thoroughly honest creature; and considering the pains which are taken to
+spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and propriety he conducts
+himself.
+
+About eleven o'clock, we sprung forward, at a smart trot, towards the
+barriers by which we had entered Rouen. Our postilion was a thorough master
+of his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed to know no cessation from
+action. The steeds, perfectly Norman, were somewhat fiery; and we rattled
+along the streets, (for the _chaussé_ never causes the least abatement of
+pace with the French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand rare
+sights ere we reached Havre--equally the limits of our journey, and of our
+contract with the owner of the cabriolet. That accomplished antiquary M. Le
+Prevost, whose name you have often heard, had furnished me with so dainty a
+bill of fare, or carte de voyage; that I began to consider each hour lost
+which did not bring us in contact with some architectural relic of
+antiquity, or some elevated position--whence the wandering Seine and wooded
+heights of the adjacent country might be surveyed with equal advantage.
+
+You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon something
+like a similar expedition:--when the morning has been fair, the sun bright,
+the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such moments how the ardour
+of hope takes possession of one!--How the heart warms, and the conversation
+flows! The barriers are approached; we turn to the left, and commence our
+journey in good earnest. Previously to gaining the first considerable
+height, you pass the village of _Bapeaume_. This village is exceedingly
+picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is enlivened by a rapid
+rivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine direction, into the Seine.
+You now begin to ascend a very commanding eminence; at the top of which are
+scattered some of those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste.
+Catharine. The road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed; and dismounting,
+we let our steeds breathe freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Our
+first halting-place, according to the instructions of M. Le Prevost, was
+_St. George de Boscherville_; an ancient abbey established in the twelfth
+century, This abbey is situated about three French leagues from Rouen. Our
+route thither, from the summit of the hill which we had just ascended, lay
+along a road skirted by interminable orchards now in full bloom. The air
+was perfumed to excess by the fragrance of these blossoms. The apple and
+pear were beautifully conspicuous; and as the sky became still more serene,
+and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it is
+impossible to conceive any thing more balmy and genial than was this lovely
+day. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly--when we reached the
+village of _Boscherville_; where stands the CHURCH; the chief remaining
+relic of this once beautiful abbey. We surveyed the west front very
+leisurely, and thought it an extremely beautiful specimen of the
+architecture of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; for certainly there
+are some portions more ancient than others. A survey of the chapter-house
+filled me with mingled sorrow and delight: sorrow, that the Revolution and
+a modern cotton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its original
+character; and delight, that the portions which remained were of such
+beautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone, being of a very
+close-grained quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it had been
+just cut from the quarry. The room, where a parcel of bare-legged girls and
+boys were working the respective machineries, had a roof of the most
+delicate construction.[79]
+
+The very sound of a _Monastery_ made me curious to examine the disposition
+of the building. Accordingly, I followed my guide through suites of
+apartments, up divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridors. I
+noticed the dormitories with due attention, and of course inquired eagerly
+for the LIBRARY:--but the shelves only remained--either the fear or the
+fury of the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing in
+the shape of a _book_. The whole was painted white. I counted eleven
+perpendicular divisions; and, from the small distances between the upper
+shelves, there must have been a very considerable number of _duodecimos_.
+The titles of the respective classes of the library were painted in white
+letters upon a dark-blue ground, at top. _Bibles_ occupied the first
+division, and the _Fathers_ the second: but it should seem that equal
+importance was attached to the works of _Heretics_ as to those called
+_Litterae Humaniores_--for each had a division of equal magnitude.
+
+On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the building,
+the eye rests entirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards, abundant
+kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in England, this spot, rich by
+nature, and desirable from its proximity to a great city, would, ere forty
+moons had waned, have grown up into beauty and fertility, and expanded into
+luxuriance of condition.
+
+The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On looking at my
+instructions I found that we had to stop to examine the remains of an old
+castle at _Delafontaine_--about two English miles from _St. George de
+Boscherville_. These remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, if
+I may so speak; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous: for a few
+broken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a stone
+chimney-piece of very curious construction and ornament. On observing a
+large cavity or loop-hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it by
+means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence surveyed the landscape
+before me. Here, having for some time past lost sight of the Seine, I
+caught a fine bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now becoming
+broader and broader--while, to the left, softly tinted by distance,
+appeared the beautiful old church we had just quitted: the verdure of the
+hedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddy
+blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. I admit, however,
+that this delicious morceau of landscape was greatly indebted, for its
+enchanting effect, to the blue splendour of the sky, and the soft
+temperature of the air; while the fragrance of every distended blossom
+added much to the gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descend
+from this elevation; and to think of reaching Duclair.
+
+DUCLAIR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine, which has now
+an absolute lake-like appearance. We stopped at the auberge to rest our
+horses; and I commenced a discourse with the master of the inn and his
+daughter; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-behaved young
+woman of about twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large crackling
+wood-fire to dress a fish called the _Alose_, for the passengers of the
+_diligence_--who were expected within half an hour. The French think they
+can never _butter_ their victuals sufficiently; and it would have produced
+a spasmodic affection in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seen
+the enormous piece of butter which this active young _cuisinière_ thought
+necessary to put into the pot in which the '_Alose_' was to be boiled. She
+laughed at the surprise I expressed; and added "qu'on ne peut rien faire
+dans la cuisine sans le beurre." You ought to know, by the by, that the
+_Alose_, something like our _mackerel_ in flavour, is a large and delicious
+fish; and that we were always anxious to bespeak it at the table-d'hôte at
+Rouen. Extricated from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought
+upon table, it forms not only a rich, but a very substantial dish.
+
+I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of the door--enjoying
+the breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the master of the place.
+Perceiving this, the landlord approached, and addressed me with a pleasant
+degree of familiarity. "You are from London, then, Sir?" "I am." "Ah Sir, I
+never think of London but with the most painful sensations." "How so?"
+"Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in that city before the
+Revolution. He was in partnership with an English gentleman. Can you
+possibly advise and assist me upon the subject?" I told him that my advice
+and assistance were literally not worth a sous; but that, such as they
+were, he was perfectly welcome to both. "Your daughter Sir, is not
+married?"--"Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore épousée: mais je lui dis
+qu'elle ne sera jamais _heureuse_ avant qu'elle le soit." The daughter, who
+had overheard the conversation, came forward, and looking archly over her
+shoulder, replied--"ou _malheureuse_, mon père!" A sort of truism,
+expressed by her with singular epigrammatic force, to which there was no
+making any reply.
+
+Do you remember, my dear friend; that exceedingly cold winter's night,
+when, for lack of other book-entertainment, we took it into our heads to
+have a rummage among the _Scriptores Historiae Normannorum_ of
+DUCHESNE?--and finding therein many pages occupied by _Gulielmus
+Gemeticensis_, we bethought ourselves that we would have recourse to the
+valuable folio volume yeleped _Neustria Pia_:--where we presently seemed to
+hold converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of certain
+venerable establishments! I then little imagined that it would ever fall to
+my lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts of the Abbey of
+Jumieges;--or rather, of the ruins of what was once not less distinguished,
+as a school of learning, than admired for its wealth and celebrity as a
+monastic establishment. Yes, my friend, I have seen and visited the ruins
+of this Abbey; and I seem to live "mihi carior" in consequence.
+
+But I know your love of method--and that you will be in wrath if I skip
+from _Duclair_ to JUMIEGES ere the horses have carried us a quarter of a
+league upon the route. To the left of _Duclair_, and also washed by the
+waters of the Seine, stands _Marivaux_; a most picturesque and highly
+cultivated spot. And across the Seine, a little lower down, is the
+beautiful domain of _La Mailleraye_;--where are hanging gardens, and jets
+d'eaux, and flower-woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled meadows--for there
+lives and occasionally revels _La Marquise_.... I might have been not only
+a spectator of her splendor, but a participator of her hospitality; for my
+often-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a letter of
+introduction to her. What was to be done? One cannot be everywhere in one
+day, or in one journey:--so, gravely balancing the ruins of still life
+against the attractions of animated society, I was unchivalrous enough to
+prefer the former--and working myself up into a sort of fantasy, of
+witnessing the spectered forms of DAGOBERT and CLOVIS, (the fabled founders
+of the Abbey) I resolutely turned my back upon _La Mailleraye_, and as
+steadily looked forwards to JUMIEGES. We ascended very sensibly--then
+striking into a sort of bye-road, were told that we should quickly reach
+the place of our destination. A fractured capital, and broken shaft, of the
+late Norman time, left at random beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak the
+vicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height; whence, looking straight
+forward, we caught the first glance of the spires, or rather of the west
+end towers, of the Abbey of Jumieges.[80] "La voilà, Monsieur,"--exclaimed
+the postilion--increasing his speed and multiplying the nourishes of his
+whip--"voilà la belle Abbaye!"
+
+We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some neat houses
+to the right and left, we drove to a snug auberge, evidently a portion of
+some of the outer buildings, or of the chapter-house, attached to the
+Abbey. A large gothic roof, and central pillar, upon entering, attest the
+ancient character of the place.[81] The whole struck us as having been
+formerly of very great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny afternoon,
+and the villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. "Voilà Messieurs les
+Anglois, qui viennent voir l'Abbaye--mais effectivement il n'y a rien à
+voir." I told the landlady the object of our visit. She procured us a guide
+and a key: and within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. I can
+never forget that entrance. The interior, it is true, has not the magical
+effect, or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first view of
+_Tintern_ abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there is necessarily more to
+attract attention. Like Tintern also, it is unroofed--yet this unroofing
+has proceeded from a different cause: of which presently. The side aisles
+present you with a short flattened arch: the nave has none: but you observe
+a long pilaster-like, or alto-rilievo column, of slender dimensions,
+running from bottom to top, with a sort of Roman capital. The arched
+cieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the eastern
+extremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of accident. The
+latter however had triumphed over the former: but for _accident_ you must
+read _revolution_.
+
+The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning; and we were getting
+far into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather, and the sun became
+occasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock, and began
+to prepare for dinner. To the left of us lay a huge pile of fragments of
+pillars and groinings of arches--the effects of recent havoc: to the right,
+within three yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated AGNES SOREL,
+Mistress of Charles VII, lay entombed:[82]--not a relic of mausoleum now
+marking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the choicest
+efforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to
+
+Breathe a prayer for her soul--and pass on!
+
+What a contrast to the present aspect of things!--to the mixed rubbish and
+wild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh covered! The mistress
+of the inn having furnished us with napkins and tumblers, we partook of our
+dinner, surrounded by the objects just described, with no ordinary
+sensations. The air now became oppressive; when, looking through the few
+remaining unglazed mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grew
+blacker and blacker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears.
+The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially; and as the storm
+neared us, it floated as it were round the abbey, affording--by means of
+its purple, dark colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the walls,--one
+of the most beautiful painter-like effects imaginable. In an instant
+almost--and as if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer--the whole
+scene became metamorphosed. The thunder growled, but only growled; and the
+threatening phalanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away, and melted into
+the quiet uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Dinner being
+dispatched, I rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which had
+survived ... not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of the present owner
+of the soil--who is a _rich_ man, living at Rouen--and who loves to dispose
+of any portion of the stone, whether standing or prostrate, for the sake of
+the lucre, however trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the whole
+corporation of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at their head, ought to
+stand between this ruthless, rich man, and the abbey--the victim of his
+brutal avarice and want of taste.[83]
+
+The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the bottom of some
+gently undulating hills, within two or three hundred yards of the Seine.
+The river here runs gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot of
+wood-covered hills--and all seemed, from our elevated station, indicative
+of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of prosperity,--all--save the mournful and
+magnificent remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed! In fact, this
+abbey exists only as a shell. I descended, strolled about the village, and
+mingled in the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach of
+evening--and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering, in the
+open air. Perceiving that I was anxious to gain information, they flocked
+around me--and from one man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligence
+about the havoc which had been committed during the Revolution upon the
+abbey, The roof had been battered down for the sake of the _lead_--to make
+bullets; the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into other
+destructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold to some
+speculators in a cannon-foundery at Rouen.[84] The revolutionary mania had
+even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be considered as
+
+    ....damned to everlasting fame,
+
+had been a monk of the monastery; and as soon as he had attained the
+headship of it, he disposed of every movable piece of furniture, to gratify
+the revolutionary pack which were daily howling at the gates of the abbey
+for entrance! Nor could he plead _compulsion_ as an excuse. He seemed
+to enjoy the work of destruction, of which he had the uncontrouled
+direction. But enough of this wretch.
+
+The next resting-place was CAUDEBEC: a very considerable village, or rather
+a small town. You go down a steep descent, on entering it by the route we
+came. As you look about, there are singular appearances on all sides--of
+houses, and hanging gardens, and elaborately cut avenues--upon summits,
+declivities, and on the plain. But the charm of the view, at least to my
+old-fashioned feelings, was a fine old gothic church, and a very fine spire
+of what _appeared_ to belong to another. As the evening had completely
+set in, I resolved to reserve my admiration of the place till the morrow.
+
+
+[78] [I am ignorant of his present destination; but learn that he has
+    quitted the above situation a long time.]
+
+[79] [Mr. COTMAN has published views of the West Front, the South East, the
+    West Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculptured capitals and
+    basso-relievos, &c. In the whole, seven plates.]
+
+[80] [Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Front: the Towers,
+    somewhat fore-shortened; the Elevation of the Nave--and doorway of the
+    Abbey: the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A somewhat
+    particular and animated description of it will be found in _Lieut.
+    Hall's Travels in France_, 8vo. p. 57, 1819. [In the first edition,
+    I had called the west end towers of the Abbey--"small." Mons. Licquet
+    has suggested that I must have meant "_comparatively_" small;--in
+    contradistinction to the centre-tower, which would have been larger.
+    We learn also from M. Licquet that the spire of this central tower was
+    demolished in 1573, by the Abbé le Veneur, Bishop of Evreux. What
+    earthly motive could have led to such a brutal act of demolition?]
+
+[81] ["I know perfectly well, says M. Licquet, the little Inn of which the
+    author here speaks. I can assure him that it never formed any portion
+    of the "chapter house." It was nevertheless une _dependance
+    exterieure_ (I will not attempt a version of this phrase) of the
+    abbey. Dare I venture to say it was the _cowhouse_? (étable aux
+    vaches). Thank you, good Mons. Licquet; but what is a cow-house but
+    "an _outer building_ attached to the Abbey?" Vide supra.]
+
+[82] [The heart and entrails only of this once celebrated woman were,
+    according to M. Licquet, buried in the above spot. The body was
+    carried to Loches: and BELLEFOREST _(Cosmog._ vol. i. Part ii.
+    col. 31-32. edit. 1575, folio) gives a description of the mausoleum
+    where it was there entombed: a description, adds M. Licquet, which may
+    well serve for the mausoleum that was at Jumieges.]
+
+[83] [Not the smallest portion or particle of a sigh escapes us, on being
+    told, as my translator has told us, that the "soil" in question has
+    become the property of another Owner. "Laius EST MORT"--are the
+    emphatic words of M. Licquet.]
+
+[84] [One of the bells of the Abbey of Jumieges is now in the Tower of that
+   of St. Ouen, at Rouen. LICQUET.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+CAUDEBEC. LILLEBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKARVILLE. MONTMORENCI CASTLE. HAVRE DE
+GRACE.
+
+
+My last concluded with our entrance into Caudebec. The present opens with a
+morning scene at the same place. For a miracle I was stirring before nine.
+The church was the first object of attraction. For the size of the place,
+it is really a noble structure: perhaps of the early part of the sixteenth,
+or latter part of the fifteenth century.[85] I speak of the exterior
+generally, and of a great portion of the interior. A little shabby
+green-baise covered door (as usual) was half open, and I entered with no
+ordinary expectations of gratification. The painted glass seemed absolutely
+to warm the place--so rich and varied were its colours. There is a great
+abundance of it, and especially of figures of family-groups
+kneeling--rather small, but with great appearance of portrait-like
+fidelity. They are chiefly of the first half of the sixteenth century: and
+I own that, upon gazing at these charming specimens of ancient painting
+upon glass, I longed to fix an artist before every window, to bear away
+triumphantly, in a portfolio of elephantine dimensions, a faithful copy of
+almost every thing I saw. In some of the countenances, I fancied I traced
+the pencil of LUCAS CRANACH--and even of HANS HOLBEIN.
+
+This church has numerous side chapels, and figures of patron-saints. The
+entombment of Christ in white marble, (at the end of the chapel of the
+Virgin,) is rather singular; inasmuch as the figure of Christ itself is
+ancient, and exceedingly fine in anatomical expression; but the usual
+surrounding figures are modern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive.
+I noted one mural monument, to the memory of _Guillaume Tellier_, which was
+dated 1484.[86] Few churches have more highly interested me than this at
+Caudebec.[87] From the church I strolled to the _Place_, where stood the
+caffé, by the banks of the Seine. The morning view of this scene perfectly
+delighted me. Nothing can be more picturesque. The river cannot be much
+less than a mile in width, and it makes a perfect bend in the form of a
+crescent. On one side, that on which the village stands, are walks and
+gardens through which peep numerous white villas--and on the other are
+meadows, terminating in lofty rising grounds--feathered with coppice-wood
+down to the very water's edge. This may be considered, in fact, only a
+portion of the vast _Forest de Brotonne_, which rises in wooded majesty on
+the opposite heights. The spirit and the wealth of our countrymen would
+make Caudebec one of the most enchanting summer-residences in the world.
+The population of the town is estimated at about five thousand.
+
+Judge of my astonishment, when, on going out of doors, I saw the river in a
+state of extreme agitation: the whole mass of water rising perpendicularly,
+as it were, and broad rippling waves rolling over each other. It was the
+_coming in of the tide_.... and within a quarter of an hour it appeared to
+have risen upwards of three feet. You may remember that, in our own
+country, the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenomenon; and I have seen the
+river at Glocester rise _at once_ to the height of eight or ten feet,
+throwing up a shower of foam from the gradually narrowing bed of the river,
+and causing all the craft, great and small, to rise up as if by magic, and
+to appear upon a level with the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, although
+similar in kind, was not so in degree; for it rose gradually yet most
+visibly--and within half an hour, the elevation could not have been less
+than _seven_ or _eight_ feet.
+
+Having walked for some time on the heights of the town, with which I was
+much gratified, I returned to my humble auberge, ordered the cabriolet to
+be got ready, and demanded the reckoning:--which, considering that I was
+not quite at an hôtel-royale, struck me as being far from moderate. Two old
+women, of similar features and age, presented themselves as I was getting
+into the carriage: one was the mistress, and the other the fille de
+chambre. "Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n'oubliez pas, je vous
+prie, la fille-de-chambre--rappellez-vous que vos souliers ont été
+supérieurement décrottés." I took out a franc to remunerate the supposed
+fille-de-chambre--but was told it was the _mistress_. "N'importe, Monsieur,
+c'est à ce moment que je suis fille-de-chambre--quand vous serez parti, je
+serai la maitresse." The postilion seemed to enjoy this repartee as much as
+ourselves.
+
+I was scarcely out of the town half a mile, when I began to ascend. I found
+myself quickly in the middle of those rising grounds which are seen from
+the promenade or _Place du Caffé_, and could not look without extraordinary
+gratification upon the beautiful character of spring in its advanced state.
+The larch was even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees were perfectly
+clothed with foliage, of a tender yet joyous tint: the chestnut was
+gorgeously in bloom; the lime and beech were beginning to give abundant
+promise of their future luxuriance--while the lowlier tribes of laburnum
+and box, with their richly clad branches, covered the ground beneath
+entirely from view. The apple and pear blossoms still continued to
+variegate the wide sweep of foliage, and to fill the air with their
+delicious perfume. It might be Switzerland in miniature--or it might not.
+Only this I know--that it seemed as though one could live embosomed and
+enchanted in such a wilderness of sweets--reading the _fabliaux_ of the old
+Norman bards till the close of human existence!
+
+I found myself on a hard, strait, chalky old road--evidently Roman: and in
+due time perceived and entered the town of LILLEBONNE. But the sky had
+become overcast: soft and small rain was descending, and an unusual gloom
+prevailed ... when I halted, agreeably to my instructions, immediately
+before the gate of the ancient _Castle_. Venerable indeed is this Norman
+castle, and extensive are the ruins which have survived. I have a perfect
+recollection how it peeped out upon me--through the light leaf of the
+poplar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies close to the road, on
+the left. An old round tower, apparently of the time of William the
+Conqueror, very soon attracts your attention. The stones are large, and the
+interstices are also very considerable. It was here, says a yet current
+report, that William assembled the Barons of Normandy, and the invasion of
+England was determined upon. Such a spot therefore strikes an English
+beholder with no ordinary emotions. I alighted; sent the cabriolet to the
+inn, and wished both postilion and horses to get their dinners without
+delay. For myself, I had resolved to reserve my appetite till I reached
+_Bolbec_; and there was food enough before me of a different description,
+to exercise my intellectual digestion for at least the next hour. Knocking
+at the massive portals, I readily obtained admittance.
+
+The area, entirely a grass-plat, was occupied by several cows. In front,
+were evidently the ruins of a large chapel or church--perhaps of the XIVth
+century. The outer face of the walls went deeply and perpendicularly down
+to the bottom of a dry fosse; and the right angle portion of the building
+was covered with garden ground, where the owner showed us some peas which
+he boasted he should have at his table within five days. I own I thought he
+was very likely to carry his boast into execution; for finer vegetables, or
+a finer bed of earth, I had scarcely ever beheld. How things, my dear
+friend, are changed from their original character and destination! "But the
+old round tower," say you!--To "the old round tower" then let us go. The
+stair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. I reached the first floor, or
+circular room, and noticed the construction of the window seats--all of
+rough, solid, and massive stone. I ascended to the second floor; which, if
+I remember rightly, was strewn with a portion of the third floor--that had
+fallen in from sheer decay. Great must have been the crash--as the
+fragments were huge, and widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing upon
+the outer wall; through a loop-hole window, I gazed around with equal
+wonder and delight. The wall of this castle could not be less than ten feet
+in thickness. A young woman, the shepherdess of the spot, attended as
+guide.
+
+"What is that irregular rude mound, or wall of earth, in the centre of
+which children are playing?" "It is the _old Roman Theatre_, Sir." I
+immediately called to mind M. Le Prevost's instructions--and if I could
+have borrowed the wings of a spirit, I should have instantly alighted upon
+the spot--but it was situated without the precincts of the old castle and
+its appurtenances, and a mortal leap would have been attended with a mortal
+result. "Have you many English who visit this spot?" said I to my
+guide.--"Scarcely _any_, Sir--it is a frightful place--full of desolation
+and sadness.." replied she. Again I gazed around, and in the distance,
+through an aperture in the orchard trees, saw the little fishing village of
+_Quillebeuf_,[88] quite buried, as it were, in the waters of the Seine. An
+arm of the river meanders towards Lillebonne. Having gratified my
+picturesque and antiquarian propensities, from this elevated situation, I
+retrod, with more difficulty than toil, my steps down the stair-case. A
+second stroll about the area, and along the skirts of the wall, was
+sufficient to convince me only--how slight and imperfect had been my
+survey!
+
+On quitting the portal through which I entered, and bidding adieu to my
+Shepherdess and guide, I immediately hastened towards the Roman
+Theatre.[89] The town of Lillebonne has a very picturesque appearance from
+the old mound, or raised terrace, along the outer walls of the castle. In
+five minutes I mingled with the school boys who were amusing themselves
+within the ruins of all that is left of this probably once vast and
+magnificent old theatre. It is only by clearing away a great quantity of
+earth, with which these ruins are covered, that you can correctly ascertain
+their character and state of preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remark
+that the walls had much swerved from their original perpendicularity,--and
+that there was much irregularity in the laying of the bricks among the
+stones. But time, design, and accident, have each in turn (in all
+probability) so contributed to decompose, deface, and alter the original
+aspect of the building, that there is no forming a correct conjecture as to
+its ancient form. Earth, grass, trees, flowers, and weeds, have taken
+almost entire possession of some low and massive outer walls; so that the
+imagination has full play to supply all deficiencies which appear to the
+eye.
+
+From the whole of this interesting spot I retreated--with mixed sensations
+of melancholy and surprise--to the little auberge of the _Three Moors_, in
+the centre of the town. It had begun to rain smartly as we took shelter in
+the kitchen; where, for the first time since leaving England, I saw a
+display of utensils which might have vied with our own, or even with a
+Dutch interior, for neatness and order of disposition. Some of the dishes
+might have been as ancient as--not the old round Tower--but as the last
+English Duke of Normandy who might have banquetted there. The whole was in
+high polish and full display. On my complimenting the good _Aubergiste_
+upon so creditable a sight, she laughed, and replied briskly--"Ce n'est
+rien, ceci: Pentecôte est tout près, et donc vous verrez, Monsieur!"--It
+should seem that Whitsuntide was the season for a general household
+purification. Some of her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: but
+she had bought it, in the scramble which took place at the dispersion and
+destruction of the movables there, during the Revolution. I recommend all
+travellers to take a lunch, and enjoy a bottle of vin ordinaire, at _Les
+Trois-Nègres._ I was obliged to summon up all my stock of knowledge in
+polite phraseology, in order to decline a plate of soup. "It was delicious
+above every thing"--"but I had postponed taking dinner till we got to
+Bolbec." "Bon--vous y trouverez un hôtel superbe." The French are easily
+pleased; and civility is so cheap and current a coin abroad, that I wish
+our countrymen would make use of it a little more frequently than they
+appear to do. I started about two for Bolbec.
+
+The rain continued during the whole of my route thither; but it did not
+prevent me from witnessing a land of plenty and of picturesque beauty on
+all sides. Indeed it is scarcely possible to conceive a more rich and
+luxuriant state of culture. To the left, about half a league from
+Lillebonne, I passed the domain of a once wealthy, and extremely extensive
+abbey. They call it the _Abbey of Valasse._ A long rambling bare stone
+wall, and portions of a deserted ruin, kept in sight for full half an
+English mile. The immediate approach to BOLBEC is that of the entrance to a
+modern and flourishing trading town, which seems to be beginning to recover
+from the effects of the Revolution. After Rouen, and even Caudebec, it has
+a stiff modernized air. I drove to the principal inn, opposite the church,
+and bespoke dinner and a bed. The church is perfectly, modern, and equally
+heavy and large. Crowds of people were issuing from _Vespers_, when,
+ascending a flight of steps, (for it is built on ground considerably above
+the ground-floor of the inn) I resolved to wait for the final departure of
+the congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the interior, while
+dinner was getting ready.
+
+The sexton was a perfect character in his way; old, shrewd, communicative,
+and civil. There were several confessionals. "What--you confess here pretty
+much?" "Yes, Sir; but chiefly females, and among them many widows." I had
+said nothing to provoke this ungallant reply. "In respect to the
+_sacrament_, what is the proportion between the communicants, as to sex?"
+"Sir, there are one hundred women to twelve men." I wish I could say that
+this disproportion were confined to _France_.
+
+Quitting this heavy and ugly, but large and commodious fabric, I sought the
+inn and dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned professor in his
+art, and the produce of his skill was equally excellent and acceptable. I
+had scarcely finished my repast, and the _Gruyere_ cheese and nuts yet
+lingered upon the table, when the soft sounds of an organ, accompanied by a
+youthful voice, saluted my ears in a very pleasing manner. "C'est LE
+PAUVRE PETIT SAVOYARD, Monsieur"--exclaimed the waiter--"Vous allez
+entendre un air touchant! Ah, le pauvre petit!"--"Comment ça?" "Monsieur,
+il n'a ni père ni mère; mais pour le chant--oh Dieu, il n'y a personne qui
+chante comme le pauvre petit Savoyard!" I was well disposed to hear the
+song, and to admit the truth of the waiter's observation. The little
+itinerant stopped opposite the door, and sung the following air:--
+
+  _Bon jour, Bon soir_.
+
+    Je peindrai sans détour
+  Tout l'emploi de ma vie:
+  C'est de dire _bon jour_
+  Et _bon soir_ tour-à-tour.
+  _Bon Jour_ à mon amie,
+  Lorsque je vais la voir.
+  Mais au fat qui m'ennuie,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_ franc troubadour,
+  Qui chantez la bombance;
+  La paix et les beaux jours;
+  Bacchus et les amours.
+  Qu'un rimeur en démence
+  Vienne avec vous s'asseoir,
+  Pour chanter la Romance,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_, mon cher voisin,
+  Chez vous la soif m'entraîne:
+  _Bonjour_--si votre vin
+  Est de Beaune ou du Rhin;
+  Mon gosier va sans peine
+  Lui servir d'entonnoir;
+  Mais s'il est de Surêne,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+I know not how it was, but had the "petit Savoyard" possessed the
+cultivated voice of a chorister, I could not have listened to his notes
+with half the satisfaction with which I dwelt upon his history, as stated
+by the waiter. He had no sooner concluded and made his bow, than I bought
+the slender volume from which his songs had been chanted, and had a long
+gossip with him. He slung his organ upon his back, and "ever and anon"
+touching his hat, expressed his thankfulness, as much for the interest I
+had taken in his welfare, as for the trifling piece of silver which I slipt
+into his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the benches, placed on the outsides
+of the houses, were occupied--chiefly by females--to witness, it should
+seem, so novel and interesting a sight as an Englishman holding familiar
+discourse with a poor wandering Savoyard! My friend the sexton was among
+the spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared especially
+interested. "Que le bon Dieu vous bénisse!" exclaimed the Savoyard, as I
+bade him farewell. On pursuing my route for a stroll upon the heights near
+the town, I had occasion to pass these benches of spectators. The women,
+almost without any exception, inclined their heads by way of a gracious
+salute; and Monsieur _le Sacristain_ pulled off his enormous cock'd hat
+with the consequence of a drum-major. He appeared not to have forgotten the
+donation which he had received in the church. Continuing my pursuit, I
+gained an elevated situation: whence, looking down upon the spot where I
+had left the Savoyard, I observed him surrounded by the females--each and
+every one of them apparently convulsed with laughter! Even the little
+musician appeared to have forgotten his "orphan state."
+
+The environs of _Bolbec_, especially in the upper part, are sufficiently
+picturesque. At least they are sufficiently fruitful: orchards, corn and
+pasture land--intermixed with meadows, upon which cotton was spread for
+bleaching--produced altogether a very interesting effect. The little
+hanging gardens, attached to labourer's huts, contributed to the beauty of
+the scene. A warm crimson sun-set seemed to envelope the coppice wood in a
+flame of gold. The road was yet reeking with moisture--and I retraced my
+steps, through devious and slippery paths, to the hôtel. Evening had set
+in: the sound of the Savoyard's voice was no longer heard: I ordered tea
+and candles, and added considerably to my journal before I went to bed. I
+rose at five; and before six the horses were harnessed to the cabriolet.
+Having obtained the necessary instructions for reaching _Tancarville_, (the
+ancient and proud seat of the MONTMORENCIS) I paid my reckoning, and left
+Bolbec. As I ascended a long and rather steep hill, and, looking to the
+right and left, saw every thing in a state of verdure and promise, I did
+all I could to persuade myself that the journey would be agreeable, and
+that the castle of Montmorenci could not fail to command admiration. I was
+now in the high and broad "_roúte royale_" to Havre le Grace; but had
+scarcely been a league upon it, when, looking at my instructions, we struck
+out of the high road, to the left, and followed a private one through flat
+and uninteresting arable land. I cannot tell how many turns were taken, or
+how many pretty little villages were passed--till, after a long and gradual
+ascent, we came upon a height, flanked the greater part by coppice wood,
+through one portion of which--purposely kept open for the view--was seen at
+a distance a marvellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose grey and
+battered sides were lighted up with a pink colour from the morning sun) in
+the middle, as it were, of the _Seine_--which now really assumed an
+ocean-like appearance. In fact, these rocks were at a considerable
+distance, and appeared to be in the broadest part of the embouchure of that
+river. I halted the cabriolet; and gazed with unfeigned delight on this
+truly magnificent and fascinating scene!... for the larks were now mounting
+all around, and their notes, added to those of the "songsters of the
+grove," produced an effect which I even preferred to that from the organ
+and voice of the "pauvre petit Savoyard." The postboy partook of my
+rapture. "Voilà, Monsieur, des rochers terriblement perpendiculiers--eh,
+quelle belle vue de la rivière, et du paysage!"
+
+Leaving this brilliant picture, we turned rather to the left, and then
+found our descent proportionably gradual with the ascent. The Seine was now
+right before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through partial vistos, had
+enabled us to ascertain. Still _Tancarville_ was deemed a terrible way off.
+First we were to go up, and then we were to go down--now to turn to the
+right, and afterwards to the left--a sort of [Greek: polla d'ananta
+katanta] route--when a prepossessing young paysanne told the postilion,
+that, after passing through such a wood, we should reach an avenue, from
+the further end of which the castle of _Montmorenci_ would be visible..
+"une petite lieue de distance." Every thing is "une petite lieue!" It is
+the answer to every question relating to distance. Though the league be
+double a German one, still it is "une petite!" Here however the paysanne
+happened to be right. We passed through the wood, gained the avenue, and
+from the further end saw--even yet towering in imposing magnitude--the
+far-famed _Chateau de Montmorenci_. It might be a small league off. I
+gained spirits and even strength at the sight: told the postilion to mend
+his pace--of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstration, while
+the echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer road now
+received us. Knolls of grass interwoven with moss, on the summits of which
+the beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems, now enclosed the road,
+which began to widen and to improve in condition. At length, turning a
+corner, a group of country people appeared--"Est-ce ici la route de
+Tancarville?"--"Tancarville est tout près: c'est là, où on voit la fumée
+des cheminées." Joyful intelligence! The post-boy increased his speed: The
+wheels seemed to move with a readier play: and in one minute and a half I
+was upon the beach of the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the only
+auberge in the village.
+
+I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in Rembrandt's pictures:
+and especially of those of his _old_ characters. I wish you could have seen
+the old woman, of the name of _Bucan_, who came out of this same auberge to
+receive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye; keen
+features, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint;
+about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks, were all those
+harmonizing wrinkles which become old age--_upon canvas_--while, below her
+chin, communicating with a small and shrunken neck, was that sort of
+concavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to express with a minuteness
+of touch, and mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesque
+effect! This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spirits
+and of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who had
+visited her solitude this year. Her husband approached, but she soon
+ordered him "to the right about"--to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. I was
+promised the best breakfast that could be got in Normandy, in twenty
+minutes. The inn being sufficiently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble.
+The tide was now coming up, as at Caudebec; but the sweep and breadth of
+the river being, upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yet
+so obvious--although I am quite sure that all the flats, which I saw on my
+arrival as a bed of mud, were, within a quarter of an hour, wholly covered
+with the tide: and, looking up to the right, I perceived the perpendicular
+walls of _Montmorenci Castle_ to be washed by the refluent wave. It was a
+sort of ocean in miniature before me. A few miserable fishing boats were
+moored upon the beach; while a small number of ill-clad and straggling
+villagers lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon the postboy
+and myself as beings dropt from the sky!
+
+On ascending a considerable elevation, I had the gratification of viewing
+_Quillebeuf_ a little more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite:
+while, to the right, contemplating the wide sweep of the river towards its
+embouchure, I fancied that I could see _Havre_. The group of rocks, which
+had so charmed us on our journey, now assumed a different character. On
+descending, I could discover, although at a considerable distance, the old
+woman standing at the door of the auberge--apparently straining her eyes to
+catch a glimpse of us; and she was almost disposed to scold for having put
+her reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a trial. The wood
+was blazing, and the room was almost filled by smoke--but a prolonged fast,
+and a stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning air, made Mr.
+Lewis and myself only think of allaying our hunger. In every public house,
+however mean, you see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering the
+plate. A dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee pot and cups of perfectly
+Brobdignagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent butter,
+formed the _materiél_ of our breakfast. The postboy, having stabled and
+refreshed his horses, was regaling himself in the kitchen--but-how do you
+think he was regaling himself?--Truly, in stretching himself upon a bench,
+and reading, as old Ascham expresses it, "a merry tale in Boccace." In
+other words, he was reading a French version of the Decameron of that
+celebrated author. Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of the
+general propensity of the common people to _read_--whether good or bad
+books ... but let us hope and believe the former. I left the bibliomaniacal
+postboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to visit the CASTLE... the once
+proud and yet commanding residence of the family of MONTMORENCI.
+
+I ascended--with fresh energies imparted from my breakfast. The day grew
+soft, and bright, and exhilarating ... but alas! for the changes and
+chances of every thing in this transitory world. Where was the warder? He
+had ceased to blow his horn for many a long year. Where was the harp of the
+minstrel? It had perished two centuries ago, with the hand that had struck
+its chords. Where was the attendant guard?--or pursuivants--or men at arms?
+They had been swept from human existence, like the leaves of the old limes
+and beech trees by which the lower part of the building was surrounded. The
+moat was dry; the rampart was a ruin:--the rank grass grew within the
+area... nor can I tell you how many relics of halls, banqueting rooms, and
+bed-rooms, with all the magnificent appurtenances of old castellated
+architecture, struck the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise! The
+singular half-circular, and half square, corner towers, hanging over the
+ever-restless wave, interested me exceedingly. The guide shewed me where
+the prisoners used to be kept--in a dungeon, apparently impervious to every
+glimmer of day-light, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to say at
+what period even the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was built:
+but I saw nothing that seemed to be more ancient than the latter end of the
+fifteenth century.[90] Perhaps the greater portion may be of the beginning
+of the sixteenth; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiring
+the painted borders, chiefly of a red colour, which run along the upper
+part of the walls, or wainscoats--giving indication not only of a good, but
+of a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of ornament was to be
+seen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of Jumieges? _Here_,
+indeed, they afforded evidence--an evidence, mingled with melancholy
+sensations on reflection--of the probable state of magnificence which once
+reigned throughout the castle. Between the corner towers, upon that part
+which runs immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace,
+now converted into garden ground--which commands an immediate and extensive
+view of the embouchure of the river. It is the property of a speculator,
+residing at Havre.
+
+The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which the castle
+is built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the inn), I had nothing
+to do but to step in, and push forward for _Havre_. Retracing the road
+through which we came, we darted into the _Route Royale_, and got upon one
+of the noblest high roads in France. Between _Tancarville_ and _Havre_ lie
+_Hocher_ and _Harfleur_; each almost at the water's edge. I regretted I
+could not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to
+the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country
+villas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur is
+exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the
+exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me. Few places, I
+believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages
+than Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and,
+before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing gives
+indication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town. The houses
+increase in number and respectability of appearance--"Voyez-vous là,
+Monsieur, à droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed the
+charioteer)--"C'est la où demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes: ma foi, ils
+ont un joli gout." The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the
+sagacity of the postilion. They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean;
+while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.
+Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his
+description of such trout-streams as were those before us.
+
+But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in the
+commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the
+globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, of
+business, and variety; and perfectly English. What a contrast to the gloomy
+solitude of Montmorenci! The outer and inner gates are passed. _Diligences_
+issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns,
+from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all
+sides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hôtel of the _Aigle
+d'Or,_[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just in
+time for the table d'hôte, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers were
+continually arriving and departing. What life and animation!... We sat down
+upwards of forty to dinner: and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settled
+for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!--nor can I suppress my
+feelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more
+than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.
+
+
+[85] The nave was begun in 1416. LICQUET.
+
+[86] Corrected by Mons. Licquet: with thanks from the Author. It was,
+    before, 1184.
+
+[87] Lieutenant Hall has well described it. I did not see his description
+    till more than a twelvemonth after my own had been written. A part may
+    be worth extracting.... "The principal object of attraction is the
+    CHURCH, the gothic spire of which is encircled by fillets of roses,
+    beautifully carved in stone, and continued to the very summit of the
+    steeple. The principal portal too is sculptured with no less richness
+    and delicacy than that of St. Maclou at Rouen. Its interior length is
+    about 250 feet by 72 of width. The central aisle [nave] is flanked on
+    either side by ten massive circular columns, the capitals of which
+    represent vine leaves and other decorations, more fanciful, and not
+    less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus.... In one of the chapels
+    there is a rude monumental effigy of the original architect of this
+    church. It consists of a small skeleton, drawn in black lines, against
+    a tablet in the wall: a mason's level and trowel, with the plan of a
+    building, are beside it, and an inscription in gothic characters,
+    relating that the architect endowed the church he had built with
+    certain lands, and died Anno 1484." _Travels in France_, p. 47,
+    1819, 8vo. I take this to be GUILLAUME TELLIER--mentioned above: but
+    in regard to the lands with which Tellier endowed the church, the
+    inscription says nothing. LICQUET.
+
+[88] Small as may be this village, and insignificant as may be its aspect,
+    it is one of the most important places, with respect to navigation, in
+    the whole course of the river Seine. Seven years ago there were not
+    fewer than _four-score_ pilots settled here, by order of government,
+    for the purpose of guarding against accidents which arise from a want
+    of knowledge of the navigation of the river. In time of peace this
+    number would necessarily be increased. In the year 1789 there were
+    upwards of 250 English vessels which passed it--averaging, in the
+    whole, 19,000 tons. It is from _Quillebeuf_ to _Havre_ that the
+    accidents arise. The author of a pompous, but very instructive memoir,
+    "_sur la Topographie et la Statistique de la Ville de Quillebeuf et de
+    l'embouchure de la Seine, ayant pour objet-principal la navigation et
+    la pêché_," (published in the Transactions of the Rouen Society for
+    the year 1812, and from which the foregoing information has been
+    obtained) mentions three or four _wrecks_ which have taken place in
+    the immediate vicinity of Quillebeuf: and it should seem that a _calm_
+    is, of all things, the most fatal. The currents are strong, and the
+    vessel is left to the mercy of the tides in consequence. There are
+    also rocks and sand banks in abundance. Among the wrecks, was one, in
+    which a young girl of eighteen years of age fell a victim to the
+    ignorance of the pilot. The vessel made a false tack between _Hode_
+    and _Tancarville_, and running upon a bank, was upset in an instant.
+    An English vessel once shared the same calamity. A thick fog suddenly
+    came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank near the _Nez de Tancarville_,
+    and the crew had just time to throw themselves into the boat and
+    escape destruction. The next morning, so sudden and so decisive was
+    the change wrought by the sand and current, that, of the sloop, there
+    remained, at ebb-tide, only ten feet of her mast visible! It appears
+    that the _Quillebois_, owing to their detached situation, and their
+    peculiar occupations, speak a very barbarous French. They have a sort
+    of sing-song method of pronunciation; and the _g_ and _j_ are
+    strangely perverted by them. Consult the memoir here referred to;
+    which occupies forty octavo pages: and which forms a sequel to a
+    previous communication (in 1810) "upon the Topography and Medical
+    properties of Quillebeuf and its adjacent parts." The author is M.
+    Boismare. His exordium is a specimen of the very worst possible taste
+    in composition. One would suppose it to be a prelude to an account of
+    the discovery of another America!
+
+[89] ["The Roman Circus (says M. Licquet) is now departmental property.
+    Many excavations have already taken place under the directions of
+    Mons. Le Baron de Vanssay, the present Prefect of the Department. The
+    most happy results may be anticipated. It was in a neighbouring
+    property that an ANTIQUE BRONZE GILT STATUE, of the size of life, was
+    lately found," vol. i. 194. Of this statue, Mr. Samuel Woodburn, (with
+    that spirit of liberality and love of art which have uniformly
+    characterised his purchases) became the Owner. The sum advanced for it
+    was very considerable; but, in one sense, Mr. W. may be said to have
+    stood as the Representative of his country; for the French Government
+    declining to give the Proprietor the sum which he asked, Mr. Woodburn
+    purchased it--solely with the view of depositing it, on the same terms
+    of purchase, in a NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, of which the bequest of Mr.
+    Payne Knight's ancient bronzes and coins, and the purchase of Mr.
+    Angerstein's pictures, might be supposed to lay the foundation.
+
+    This statue was accordingly brought over to England, and freely
+    exhibited to the curious admirers of ancient art. It is the figure of
+    an APOLLO--the left arm, extended to hold the lyre, being mutilated. A
+    portion of the limbs is also mutilated; but the torso, head and legs,
+    are entire: and are, of their kind, of the highest class of art.
+    Overtures were made for its purchase by government. The Trustees of
+    the British Museum were unanimous both in their admiration and
+    recommendation of it: it was indeed "strongly recommended" by them to
+    the Treasury. Several months however elapsed before an answer could be
+    obtained; and that answer, when it _did_ come, was returned in
+    THE NEGATIVE. The disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of
+    success, was the least thing felt by its owner. It was the necessity
+    of transporting it, in consequence, to enrich a _rival
+    capital_--which, were its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it
+    must be confessed, makes us frequently blush for the comparative want
+    of energy and liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT
+    ART.]
+
+[90] Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci
+    Castle.
+
+[91] I am not sure whether this inn be called the _Armes de France_,
+    or as above.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI
+
+HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN.
+
+_Caen, May_, 1818.
+
+
+Well, my friend!... I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey of
+St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR and of
+MATHILDA his wife. But as you dearly love the gossip of a travelling
+journal, I shall take up the thread of my narrative from the place in which
+I last addressed you:--particularly as our route hither was marked by some
+circumstances worthy of recital. First, however, for _Havre_.
+
+I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the time of my
+residence could not be extended. It happened to be a fine afternoon, and I
+took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts.[92] The town was full
+of animation--whether relating to business or to pleasure. For the former,
+you must visit the quays; for the latter, you must promenade the high
+street, and more especially the _Boulevards_, towards the heights. The sun
+shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, and
+bawling human creatures.. who were in constant locomotion in this latter
+place.
+
+What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppe
+and Havre? Although even _here_ things would assume a rubbishing and
+littered aspect compared with the quays at _Liverpool_ or at _Hull_, yet it
+must be admitted, for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quays
+of Havre make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing,
+sleeping, sitting, and of course talking _à pleine gorge_, in groups
+without end--but no drunkenness!.. not even an English oath saluted my ear.
+The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre. I saw the arrival of one
+of these packets; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic
+spirits of a host of French _laqnais de place_, tradespeople,
+&c.--attacking the passengers with cards of their address--with the feeble
+movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack.
+
+From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are flanked by broad
+ditches--of course plentifully supplied with water; and passing over the
+drawbridge, by which all carriages enter the town--and which absolutely
+trembles as if about to sink beneath you, as the _diligence_ rolls over
+it.--I made for the boulevards and tea-gardens; to which, business being
+well nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hundreds and by
+thousands. A fine afternoon throws every thing into "good keeping"--as the
+artists say. The trees, and meadows, and upper lands, were not only bright
+with the sun-beam, but the human countenance was lighted up with gladness.
+The occupations partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there was
+dancing and singing on all sides; a little beyond, appeared to sit a group
+of philosophers, or politicians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneath
+laburnums streaming with gold; while, still further, gradually becoming
+invisible from the foliage and winding path, strolled pairs in more gentle
+discourse! Meanwhile the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rapid and
+ceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air, and heightened the
+gratification of the scene....
+
+  And young and old came out to play
+  Upon a sun-shine holiday.
+
+Gaining a considerable ascent, I observed knolls of rich verdure, with fine
+spreading trees, and elegant mansions, to be in the foreground--in the
+middle-ground, stood the town of Havre:--in the distance, rolled and roared
+the expansive ocean! The sun was visibly going to rest; but his departing
+beams yet sparkled upon the more prominent points of the picture. There was
+no time for finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple of
+hours, on this interesting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge,
+and prepared for objects of _still_ life; in other words, for the
+examination of what might be curious and profitable in the shape of a
+_boke_.
+
+The lamps were lighted when I commenced my _Bibliomaniacal Voyage_ of
+discovery among the BOOKSELLERS. But what poverty of materials, for a man
+educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton! To every question, about rare
+or old books, I was told that I should have been on the Continent when the
+allies first got possession of Paris. In fact, I had not a single
+_trouvaille_.
+
+The packet was to sail by nine the next morning, precisely. For a wonder,
+(or rather no wonder at all, considering what had occurred during the last
+twenty-four hours) I had an excellent night's rest, and was prepared for
+breakfast by eight. Having breakfasted, I accompanied my luggage to the
+inner harbour, and observed the _Honfleur_ packet swarming with passengers,
+and crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks,
+trunks, cordage, and earthenware. We went on board, and took our stations
+near the helm; and after experiencing a good deal of _uncomfortable_
+heaving of the ocean, got clear from the mouth of the harbour, and stood
+out to sea. The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour. We
+were in truth closely stowed; and as these packets are built with flattish
+bottoms, and low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thus
+exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind began to
+subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Our
+crew was a motley one; but among them, an Abbess, with a visage of
+parchment-like rigidity, and with her broad streaming bands, seemed to
+experience particular distress. She was surrounded by some hale, hearty
+market women, whose robust forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed a
+striking contrast to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two,
+with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess
+was cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most
+piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below.
+
+Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure
+to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards the
+course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered
+_Harfleur_ and _Hocher_ nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the
+little fishing town of _Quillebeuf_, apparently embedded in the water.
+Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]--or
+whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs make
+amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plenty
+would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps no
+situation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.[94] I
+paid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be _viséd_
+(which indeed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from
+the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn
+from which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see with
+what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in their
+trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and
+miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. I
+was fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence. The horses
+were in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand.
+
+Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, and
+apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time. It
+is not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, and
+apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were
+the Messrs. D*** of _L_**** _Hall_ in Yorkshire: the elder brother an
+Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were
+all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition.
+
+We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very high hill on
+the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon a
+noble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the truly
+magnificent view of the Seine--with glimpses of _Harfleur_ and _Havre_ on
+the opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick movement of
+the vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commodious manner. The
+ground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with the
+incumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of scent
+abroad--and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most luxuriant
+appearance to the landscape. Nature indeed seemed to have fructified every
+thing in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The face of the country
+is pasture-land throughout; that is to say, there are comparatively few
+orchards and little arable. I was told to pay attention to the cattle, for
+that the farmers prided themselves on their property of this kind. They may
+pride themselves--if they please: but their pride is not of a lofty cast of
+character. I have been in Lincolnshire, Herefordshire, and
+Gloucestershire--and have seen and enjoyed, in these counties, groups of
+cattle which appeared calculated for the land and the table of giants,
+compared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline species, which were
+straying, in thin flocks, through the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That
+triumphant and immutable maxim of "small bone and large carcase" seems,
+alas! to be unknown in these regions.
+
+However, on we rode--and gazed on all sides. At length we reached _Pont
+L'Eveque_, a pretty long stage; where we dined (says my journal) upon roast
+fowl, asparagus, trout, and an excellent omelette, with two good bottles of
+vin ordinaire--which latter, for four Englishmen, was commendably moderate.
+During dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents--the gutters
+foamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of the water. In the
+midst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right merrily and
+cordially; and the conducteur, seeing us in good humour, told us that "we
+need not hurry, for that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one." We
+readily assented to this position; but within half an hour, the weather
+clearing, we remounted: and by four o'clock, we all got inside--and
+politics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constant
+discourse and good humour as we rolled on for many a league. All the way to
+_Troarn_ (the last stage on this side of Caen) the country presents a truly
+lovely picture of pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded heights,
+in which English wealth and English taste would have raised villas of the
+prettiest forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to be
+mentioned in the same breath with the country about Rodwell in
+Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage as
+are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut _Wynkyn de
+Worde_:[95] but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms and
+limes, and meadows begemmed with butter-cups--these are the characteristics
+of the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however you
+look for neat villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you see
+groups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population gives to
+French landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of character. It is in
+cities that you must look for human beings--and _for_ cities the French
+seem to have been created.
+
+It was at _Troarn_, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that our
+passports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. We
+surrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen, with their cocked hats
+and blue jackets--having a belt from which a sword was suspended--consulted
+together for a minute only--returned our keys--and telling us that matters
+would be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no
+trouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs.
+D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy being
+secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curiosity for
+a view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizon
+had become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of _St. Stephen's
+Abbey_--the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine
+o'clock; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very
+indistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in a
+lengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had the
+appearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like our
+famous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the surrounding
+country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all the
+population seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude we
+plunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the _Hotel
+d'Espagne--_a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was
+taken down; and here we were assailed by garçons de place, with cards in
+their hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We had
+somehow got a recommendation to the _Hotel Royale, Place Royale_, and such
+a union of _royal_ adjuncts was irresistible. Accordingly, we resolved upon
+moving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed upon barrows: and we
+marched behind, "in double quick time," in order to secure our property.
+The town appeared to improve as we made our different turnings, and gained
+upon our hotel. "Le voilà, Messieurs"--exclaimed our guides and
+baggage-conductors--as we got into a goodly square, and saw a fair and
+comely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids, and garçons
+de place, encountered us as we entered. "Messieurs, je vous salue,"--said a
+huge, ungracious looking figure:--which said figure was nothing less than
+the master of the hotel--Mons. Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room
+on the ground floor, to the right--and ordered tea; but had scarcely begun
+to enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when the same
+ungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... to tell us "all about
+THE DUEL."
+
+I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from Havre to
+Honfleur) something respecting this most extraordinary duel between a young
+Englishman and a young Frenchman: but as I mean to reserve my _Caen budget_
+for a distinct dispatch, and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in
+this place, I must bid you adieu; only adding that I dreamt, last night,
+about some English antiquaries trying to bend the bow of William the
+Conqueror!--Can this be surprising? Again farewell.
+
+
+[92] Evelyn, who visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de Richlieu was
+    governor, describes the citadel as "strong and regular, well stored
+    with artillery, &c. The works furnished with faire brass canon, having
+    a motto, "_Ratio ultima Regum_." The haven is very spacious." _Life
+    and Writings of John Evelyn_, edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 51. Havre seems
+    always to have been a place of note and distinction in more senses
+    than one. In Zeiller's _Topographia Galliae,_ (vol. iii.) there is a
+    view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques
+    Gomboust, Ingénieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very
+    considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings and places are
+    referred to in the directions; and among them we observe the
+    BOULEVARDS DE RICHELIEU.
+
+[93] It was so in Evelyn's time: in 1644, "It is a poore fisher
+    towne (says he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull
+    habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of
+    raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts." _Life and Writings of
+    J. Evelyn_; 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 51.
+
+[94] [It is near a chapel, on one of the heights of this town, that Mr.
+    Washington Irving fixes one of his most exquisitely drawn characters,
+    ANNETTE DELABRE, as absorbed in meditation and prayer respecting the
+    fate of her lover; and I have a distinct recollection of a beautiful
+    piece of composition, by one of our most celebrated artists, in which
+    the _Heights of Honfleur_, with women kneeling before a crucifix
+    in the foreground, formed a most beautiful composition. The name of
+    the artist (was it the younger Mr. Chalon?) I have forgotten.]
+
+[95] [My translator says, "un Wynkyn de Worde non coupé:" Qu. Would not the
+    _Debure_ Vocabulary have said "non rogné?"]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST.
+STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DARNETAL. ABBÉ DE LA SAINTE TRINITÉ. OTHER
+PUBLIC EDIFICES.
+
+
+I have now resided upwards of a week at Lagouelle's, the _Hotel Royale_,
+and can tell you something of the place and of the inhabitants of CAEN.
+Caen however is still-life after Rouen: but it has been, and yet is, a town
+exceedingly well-deserving the attention of the lounging traveller and of
+the curious antiquary. Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but
+less vast and splendid, than those of Rouen; while the streets and the
+houses are much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of the
+department of CALVADOS, or of LOWER NORMANDY: and its population is
+estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a school of
+art, a college, mayoralty, and all the adjuncts of a corporate society.[96]
+But I must first give you something in the shape of political economy
+intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of _Bayeux, Vire, Falaise,
+Lisieux, Pont L'Eveque_, is the country of pasturage and of cattle. It is
+also fertile in the apple and pear; and although at _Argences_ there have
+been vineyards from time immemorial, yet the produce of the grape, in the
+character of _wine_,[97] is of a very secondary description. There are
+beautiful and most abundant market gardens about Caen; and for the last
+seventy years they have possessed a garden for the growth and cultivation
+of foreign plants and trees. It is said that more than nine hundred species
+of plants and trees are to be found in the department of CALVADOS, of which
+some (but I know not how many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Of
+forests and woods, the number is comparatively small; and upon that limited
+number great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In the
+arrondissement of Caen itself, there are only 344 _hectares_.[98] The truth
+is, that in the immediate neighbourhood of populous towns, the French have
+no idea of PLANTING. They suffer plain after plain, and hill after hill, to
+be denuded of trees, and make no provision for the supply of those who are
+to come after them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country about
+Rouen--(especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen--) is
+gradually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you approach the
+town, there is a dreary flatness of country, unrefreshed by the verdure of
+foliage: whereas the soil, kind and productive by nature, requires only the
+slightest attention of man to repay him a hundred fold. What they will do
+some fifty years hence for _fuel_, is quite inconceivable. It is true that
+the river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the sea,
+brings up vessels of even 200 tons burthen, in which they may stow plenty
+of wood; but still, the expenses of carriage, and duties of a variety of
+description--together with the _dependence_ of the town upon such
+accidental supply--would render the article of fuel a most expensive
+concern. It is also true that they pretend that the soil, in the department
+of Calvados, contains _coal_; but the experiments which were made some
+years ago at _Littry_, in the arondissement of _Bayeux_, should forbid the
+Caennois to indulge any very sanguine expectations on that score.
+
+In respect to the trade of the town, the two principal branches are _lace_
+and _cap_ making. The former trade is divided with Bayeux; and both places
+together give occupation to about thirty thousand pairs[99] of hands.
+People of all ages may be so employed; and the annual gross receipts have
+been estimated at four millions of francs. In _cap_ making only, at Caen,
+four thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce of
+two millions of francs has been the result of that branch of trade. A great
+part of this manufacture was consumed at home; but more than one half used
+to be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the colonies belonging to France.
+They pretend to say, however, that this article of commerce is much
+diminished both in profit and reputation: while that of _table linen_ is
+gaining proportionably in both.[100] There were formerly great _tanneries_
+in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade has
+suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and the
+ignorance and inattention of the masters to recent improvements, introduced
+by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance this
+misfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciously
+directed commercial spirit in the article of _porcelaine_; and if Caen be
+inferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in
+the articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that
+which relates to _pottery_ and _china_: no mean articles in the supply of
+domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher "pith and
+moment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed.
+There is a better spirit of _education_ abroad; and, for its size, more
+science and more literature will be found in it.
+
+This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers. There are two
+distinct academies--one for "Science and the Belles-Lettres"--the other for
+agriculture and commerce. The _Lycée_ is a noble building, close to the
+Abbey of St. Stephen: but I wish its façade had been Gothic, to harmonise
+with the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the
+prevalent appearance of _stone_ in its public buildings. The environs of
+the town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a
+comparatively soft state--and is thus cut into the several forms required
+with the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding day
+appears to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw some important
+improvements making in the outskirts of the town,[101] in which they were
+finishing shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and
+gratifying. Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they find
+stone of a closer grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavements
+for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place,
+which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me as
+being equally curious and uncommon. It is asserted that they have different
+kinds of _marble_ in the department of Calvados, which equal that of the
+south of France. At _Basly_ and _Vieux_ white marble is found which has
+been judged worthy of a comparison with Parian; but this is surely a little
+presumptuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu brought from
+Vieux all the marble with which he built the chapel in the college of the
+Sorbonne.
+
+Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular society,
+Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners of the common
+people are pretty much, if not entirely, the same; except that, as to
+dress, the _cauchoise_ is here rather more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen.
+The upper fille-de-chambre at our hotel displays not only a good correct
+model of national dress, but she is well-looking in her person, and
+well-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured young
+woman to sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girl's
+eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the proposal, and even an
+expression of gratitude mingled itself in her manner of compliance. I send
+you the figure and dress of the fille-de-chambre at the _Hotel Royale_ of
+Caen.[102]
+
+[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, CAEN.]
+
+Caen is called the dépôt of the English.[103] In truth there is an amazing
+number of our countrymen here, and from very different causes. One family
+comes to reside from motives of economy; another from those of education; a
+third from those of retirement; and a fourth from pure love of sitting
+down, in a strange place, with the chance of making some pleasant
+connection, or of being engaged in seeking some strange adventure: Good and
+cheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main attractions. But
+there is desperate ill blood just now between the _Caennois_ (I will not
+make use of the enlarged term _Francois_) and the English; and I will tell
+you the cause. Do you remember the emphatic phrase in my last, "all about
+the duel?" Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,[104] a duel
+was fought between a young French law-student, and a young Englishman; the
+latter the son of a naval captain. I will mention no names; and so far not
+wound the feelings of the friends of the parties concerned. But this duel,
+my friend, has been "THE DUEL OF DUELS"--on the score of desperation, and
+of a fixed purpose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I
+trust will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, in
+spite of all the "bouleversemens" of the Revolution, has maintained its
+ancient reputation of possessing a very large seminary, or college for
+students at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in number. Most young
+gentlemen under twenty years of age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, or
+foolish. Generally speaking, however, the students conduct themselves with
+propriety: but there had been a law-suit between a French and English
+suitor, and the Judge pronounced sentence in favour of our countryman. The
+hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful number of
+law-students. As they were retiring, one young Frenchman either made
+frightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insulting
+manner, at a young Englishman--the son of this naval captain. Our
+countryman had no means or power of noticing or resenting the insult, as
+the aggressor was surrounded by his companions. It so happened that it was
+fair time at Caen; and in the evening of the same day, our countryman
+recognised, in the crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man who
+had insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave him to
+understand that his rude behaviour should be noticed at a proper time and
+in a proper place: whereupon the Frenchman came up to him, shook him
+violently by the arm, and told him to "fix his distance on the ensuing
+morning." Now the habit of duelling is very common among these
+law-students; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and of course ...
+MISS--and then fancy themselves great heroes ... and there is an end of the
+affair. Not so upon the present occasion. "Fifteen paces," if you
+please--said the student, sarcastically, with a conviction of the
+backwardness of his opponent to meet him. "FIVE, rather"--exclaimed the
+provoked Englishman--"I will fight you at FIVE paces:"--and it was agreed
+that they should meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder.
+
+Each party was under twenty; but I believe the English youth had scarcely
+attained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate will cause your
+flesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as _one_ must necessarily
+_fall_, from firing at so short a distance, that only _one_ pistol should
+be loaded with _ball_: the other having nothing but _powder_:--and that, as
+the Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the choice of the pistols.
+They parted. The seconds prepared the pistols according to agreement, and
+the fatal morning came. The combatants appeared, without one jot of
+abatement of spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grass
+before them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder and
+ball. The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed and balanced it
+most carefully in his hand, and then ... laid it down. He seized the other
+pistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence he was to
+fire. The English youth was necessarily compelled to take the abandoned
+pistol. Five paces were then measured ... and on the signal being given,
+they both fired ... and the Frenchman fell ... DEAD UPON THE SPOT! The
+Frenchman had in fact _taken up_, but afterwards _laid down_, the very
+pistol which was loaded with the fatal _ball_--on the supposition that it
+was of too light a weight; and even seemed to compliment himself upon his
+supposed sagacity on the occasion. But to proceed. The ball went through
+his heart, as I understood. The second of the deceased on seeing his friend
+a reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and outrageous ... and was for
+fighting the survivor immediately! Upon which, the lad of mettle and
+courage replied, that he would not fight a man without a _second_--"But
+go," said he, (drawing his watch coolly from his fob). I will give you
+twenty minutes to come back again with your second." He waited, with his
+watch in his hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the return
+of the Frenchman; but on the expiration of the time, his own second
+conjured him to consult his safety and depart; for that, from henceforth,
+his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground; obtained his passport, and
+quitted the town instantly ... The dead body of his antagonist was then
+placed on a bier: and his funeral was attended by several hundreds of his
+companions--who, armed with muskets and swords, threatened destruction to
+the civil and military authorities if they presumed to interfere. All this
+has necessarily increased the ill-blood which is admitted to exist between
+the English and French ... but the affair is now beginning to blow
+over.[105]
+
+A truce to such topics. It is now time to furnish you with some details
+relating to your favourite subjects of ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES and
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. The former shall take precedence. First of the _streets_;
+secondly of the _houses_; and thirdly of the _public buildings_;
+ecclesiastical and civil.
+
+To begin with the STREETS. Those of _St. Pierre, Notre Dame_, and _St.
+Jean_ are the principal for bustle and business. The first two form one
+continuous line, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact a
+very interesting stroll to the observer of men and manners. The shops are
+inferior to those of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible in
+them. The street beyond the abbey, and those called _Guilbert_, and _des
+Chanoines_, leading towards the river, are considered among the genteelest.
+Ducarel pronounced the _houses_ of Caen "mean in general, though usually
+built of stone;" but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The open
+parts about the _Lycée_ and the _Abbey of St. Stephen_, together with the
+_Place Royale_, where the library is situated, form very agreeable spaces
+for the promenade of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The
+_Courts_ are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time of
+Francis I. Of _domestic_ architecture, those houses, with elaborate
+carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubtless of the greatest
+antiquity. There are a great number of these; and some very much older than
+others.
+
+A curious old house is to the right hand corner of the street _St. Jean_:
+as you go to the Post Office. But I must inform you that the residence of
+the famous MALHERBE yet exists in the street leading to the Abbey of St.
+Stephen. This house is of the middle of the sixteenth century: and what
+Corneille is to _Rouen_, Malherbe is to _Caen_. "ICI NAQUIT MALHERBE," &c.
+as you will perceive from the annexed view of this house, inscribed upon
+the front of the building. Malherbe has been doomed to receive greater
+honours. His head was first struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuate
+the resemblances of the most eminent literary characters (male and female)
+in France: and it is due to the amiable Pierre-Aimé Lair to designate him
+as the FATHER of this medallic project.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In perambulating this town, one cannot but be surprised at the absence of
+_Fountains_--those charming pieces of architecture and of street
+embellishment. In this respect, Rouen has infinitely the advantage of Caen:
+where, instead of the trickling current of translucent water, we observe
+nothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly _wells_[106]
+as tasteless in their structure as they are inconvenient in the procuring
+of water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the dates of 1560 and
+1588.
+
+The PUBLIC EDIFICES, however, demand a particular and appropriate
+description: and first of those of the ecclesiastical order. Let us begin
+therefore with the ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN; for it is the noblest and most
+interesting on many accounts. It is called by the name of that Saint,
+inasmuch as there stood formerly a chapel, on the same site, dedicated to
+him. The present building was completed and solemnly dedicated by William
+the Conqueror, in the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert and
+William, his favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, and
+Thomas Archbishop of York--towards the year 1080: but I strongly suspect,
+from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that nothing
+more than the west front and the towers upon which the spires rest, remain
+of its ancient structure. The spires (as the Abbé De La Rue conjectures,
+and as I should also have thought) are about two centuries later than the
+towers.
+
+The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thirteenth, rather than
+of the end of the eleventh, century. The first exterior view of the west
+front, and of the towers, is extremely interesting; from the grey and clear
+tint, as well as excellent quality, of the stone, which, according to Huet,
+was brought partly from Vaucelle and partly from Allemagne.[107] One of the
+corner abutments of one of the towers has fallen down; and a great portion
+of what remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeed
+greatly in need of reparation. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,[108] has
+made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation, as if it were intended for
+a wooden model to work by: having all the stiffness and precision of an
+erection of forty-eight hours standing only. The central tower is of very
+stunted dimensions, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of an
+extinguisher. This, in fact, was the consequence of the devastations of the
+Calvinists; who absolutely sapped the foundation of the tower, with the
+hope of overwhelming the whole choir in ruin--but a part only of their
+malignant object was accomplished. The component parts of the eastern
+extremity are strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good
+commanding exterior view can be obtained from the _place_, or confined
+square, opposite the towers.
+
+But let us return to the west-front; and opening the unfastened green-baize
+covered door, enter softly and silently into the venerable interior--sacred
+even to the feelings of Englishmen! Of this interior, very much is changed
+from its original character. The side aisles retain their flattened arched
+roofs and pillars; and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters--or
+alto-rilievo-like pillars--running from bottom to top, which are to be seen
+in the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long pillars are
+comparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance, within a side
+chapel, is the burial place of MATILDA, the wife of the Conqueror. The
+tombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly of the time. Generally
+speaking, the interior is cold, and dull of effect. The side chapels, of
+which not fewer than sixteen encircle the choir, have the discordant
+accompaniments of Grecian balustrades to separate them from the choir and
+nave. There is a good number of _Confessionals_ within them; and at one of
+these I saw, for the first time, _two_ women, kneeling, in the act of
+confession to the _same priest_. "C'est un peu fort," observed our guide in
+an under-voice, and with a humourous expression of countenance! Meanwhile
+Mr. Lewis, who was in an opposite direction in the cathedral, was
+exercising his pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is hung the huge
+portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which Ducarel has
+published an engraving, on the supposition of its being the portrait of
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. But nothing can be more ridiculous than such a
+conclusion. In the first place, the picture itself, which is a palpable
+copy, cannot be older than a century; and, in the second place, were it an
+original performance, it could not be older than the time of Francis
+I:--when, in fact, it purports to have been executed--as a faithful copy of
+the figure of King William, seen by the Cardinals in 1522, who were seized
+with a sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at that
+time! The costume of the oil-painting is evidently that of the period of
+our Henry VIII.; and to suppose that the body of William--even had it
+remained in so surprisingly perfect a state as Ducarel intimates, after an
+interment of upwards of four hundred years--could have presented such a
+costume, when, from Ducarel's own statement, another whole-length
+representation of the same person is _totally different_--and more
+decidedly of the character of William's time--is really quite a reproach to
+any antiquary who plumes himself upon the possession even of common sense.
+
+In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, the body of the
+Conqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument erected to his
+memory of the most elaborate and costly description. Nothing now remains
+but a flat black marble slab, with a short inscription, of quite a recent
+date.
+
+In the present state of the abbey,[109] and even in that of Ducarel's time,
+there is, and was, a great dearth of sepulchral monuments. Indeed I know
+not whether you need be detained another minute within the interior; except
+it be, to add your share of admiration to that which has been long and
+justly bestowed on the huge organ[110] at the west end of the nave, which
+is considered to be the finest in all France. But Normandy abounds in
+church decorations of this kind. Leaving therefore this venerable pile,
+endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations of
+ideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard, and observe the ruins of
+a pretty extensive pile of building, which is called by Ducarel the _Palace
+of the Conqueror_. But in this supposed palace, in its _present_ state,
+most assuredly William I. _never_ resided: for it is clearly not older than
+the thirteenth century: if so ancient. Ducarel saw a great deal more than
+is now to be seen; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into what
+appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped by an old woman, who
+assured me "qu'il n'y avoit rien que du chauffage." It was true enough: the
+whole of the untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returning
+to the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right, you
+descend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins, called _St.
+Etienne le Vieil_. In Ducarel's time this church is described as entire. On
+the exterior of one of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure,
+about four English feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of a
+man on horseback--mutilated--trampling upon another man at its feet.
+
+It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But, would you believe it?
+this figure also, in the opinion of Bourgueville,[111] was intended for
+William the the Conqueror--representing his triumphant entry into Caen! As
+an object of art, even in its present mutilated state, it is highly
+interesting; and I rejoice that Mr. Cotman is likely to preserve the little
+that remains from the hazard of destruction by the fidelity of his own copy
+of it.[112] It is quite clear that, close to the figure, you discover
+traces of style which are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The
+interior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is converted "horresco
+referens" into a receptacle for ... carriages for hire. Not far from this
+spot stood formerly a magnificent CROSS--demolished during the memorable
+visit of the Calvinists.[113] In the way to the abbey of the Trinity, quite
+at the opposite or eastern extremity of the town, you necessarily pass
+along the _Rue St. Pierre_, and enter into the market-place, affording an
+opening before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the church
+of _St. Pierre de Darnetal_ of which I now speak, and from which the name
+of the street is derived. The tower and spire are of the most admirable
+form and workmanship.[114] The extreme delicacy and picturesque effect of
+the stone tiles, with which the spire is covered, as well as the lightness
+and imposing consequence given to the tower upon which the spire rests, are
+of a character peculiar to itself. The whole has a charming effect. But
+severe criticism compels one to admit that the body of the church is
+defective in fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only florid
+Gothic, but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The parts
+are capriciously put together: filled, and even crammed, with ornaments of
+apparently all ages: concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced in the
+reign of Francis I. The buttresses are, however, generally, lofty and airy.
+In the midst of this complicated and corrupt style of architecture, the
+tower and spire rise like a structure built by preternatural hands; and I
+am not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal beauty
+and effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in our own
+country. Look at this building, from any part of the town, and you must
+acknowledge that it has the strongest claims to unqualified
+admiration.[115] The body of the church is of very considerable dimensions.
+I entered it on a Sunday morning, about eleven o'clock, and found it quite
+filled with a large congregation, in which the _cauchoise_, as usual,
+appeared like a broad white mass--from one end to the other. The priests
+were in procession. One of the most magnificent organs imaginable was in
+full intonation, with every stop opened; the voices of the congregation
+were lustily exercised; and the offices of religion were carried on in a
+manner which would seem to indicate a warm sense of devotion among the
+worshippers. There is a tolerably good set of modern paintings (the best
+which I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the _Life of Christ_,
+in the side chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of _Our
+Lady's Chapel_, is horribly bedaubed and over-loaded with the most
+tasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever witnessed!
+The great bell of this church, which has an uncommonly deep and fine tone,
+is for ever
+
+  Swinging slow with solemn roar!
+
+that is to say:--it is tolling from five in the morning till ten at night;
+so incessantly, in one side-chapel or another, are these offices carried on
+within this maternal parish church.[116]
+
+I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a church in the
+_Rue St. Jean_,[117] which is one of the principal streets in the town: and
+which is terminated by the _Place des Cazernes_, flanked by the river Orne.
+In this street I was asked, by a bookseller, two pounds two shillings, for
+a thumbed and cropt copy of the _Elzevir-Heinsius Horace_ of 1629; but with
+which demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have the most
+extravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here and at Rouen.
+
+You must now attend me to the most interesting public building, perhaps all
+things considered, which is to be seen at Caen. I mean, the _Abbey of the
+Holy Trinity_, or L'ABBAYE AUX DAMES.[118] This abbey was founded by the
+wife of the Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St.
+Stephen. Ducarel's description of it, which I have just seen in a copy of
+the _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, in a bookseller's shop, is sufficiently
+meagre. His plates are also sufficiently miserable: but things are
+strangely altered since his time. The nave of the church is occupied by a
+manufactory for making cordage, or twine; and upwards of a hundred lads are
+now busied in their _flaxen_ occupations, where formerly the nun knelt
+before the cross, or was occupied in auricular confession. The entrance at
+the western extremity is entirely stopped up: but the exterior gives
+manifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St. Stephen.
+The upper part of the towers are palpably of the fifteenth, or rather of
+the early part of the sixteenth century. I had no opportunity of judging of
+the neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, as
+noticed by Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of the
+building by the manufacturing children; but I saw some very ancient
+tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removed
+from the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the sides of the
+north transept. The nave is entirely _walled up_ from the transepts, but
+the choir is fortunately preserved; and a more perfect and interesting
+specimen of its kind, of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen
+in Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel,
+are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the
+upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked along
+the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a more adventurous
+spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me: for, on quitting
+daylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the central
+tower--to enjoy from hence a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relate
+it. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading
+absolutely to ... nothing: or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened to
+be foremost in ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckily
+close behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot to
+a supposed higher or succeeding step ... but there was _none_. A depth of
+eighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I was
+about to lose my balance--and roared out "Arrêtez--tenez!" The least
+balance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these
+critical occasions: when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling me
+in consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... and my LIFE ... were equally
+saved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE AUX DAMES at
+Caen.
+
+I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude with
+those of the western extremity, and from thence surveyed the town, as well
+as the drizzling rain would permit. I saw enough however to convince me
+that the site of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly
+upon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition
+to mount to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that most
+commendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to visit the
+CRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more laudable spirit of
+enterprise than did my old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from the
+summit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. I
+descended by the same (somewhat intricate) route, and I took especial care
+to avoid all "temporary wooden stair-cases." The crypt, beneath the choir,
+is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir itself. Within
+an old, very old, stone coffin--at the further circular end--are the
+pulverized remains of one of the earliest Abbesses.[119] I gazed around
+with mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw myself back into
+centuries past, fancying that the shrouded figure of MATILDA herself glided
+by, with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm! Having
+gratified my curiosity by a careful survey of this subterraneous abode, I
+revisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the large building,
+now a manufactory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery. The
+revolution has swept away every human being in the character of a nun; but
+the director of the manufactory shewed me, with great civility, some relics
+of old crosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c. which had been taken from
+the crypt I had recently visited. These relics savoured of considerable
+antiquity. Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they _must_ have
+belonged to Matilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption nor
+the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed indeed to have undergone
+half a dozen decompositions. Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society,
+after having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country, should ever
+think of perpetuating the principal ecclesiastical edifices of Normandy, by
+means of the _Art of Engraving_, let them begin their labours with the
+ABBAYE AUX DAMES at Caen.
+
+The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical buildings
+in this place. There are other public edifices, but comparatively of a
+modern date. And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I to
+neglect giving you an account, however superficial, of the remains of an
+apparently CASTELLATED BUILDING, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames--or
+rather to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the town by the way
+we came. As far as I can discover, this appears to have escaped
+Ducarel.[120] It is doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upper
+part of the walls, there is a series of basso-relievo heads,
+medallion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for portraits. They are
+assuredly not older than the reign of Francis I. and may be even as late as
+that of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with a
+ferocious-looking man on each side of it, either saluting the woman, or
+whispering in her ear. But the most striking objects are the stone figures
+of two men, upon a circular tower, of which one is in the act of shooting
+an arrow, and the other as if holding a drawn sword. I got admittance
+within the building; and ascending the tower, found that these were only
+the _trunks_ of figures,--and removable at pleasure. I could only stroke
+their beards and shake their bodies a little, which was of course done with
+impunity. Whether the present be the _original_ place of their destination
+may be very doubtful. The Abbé de la Rue, with whom I discoursed upon the
+subject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures are of the time
+of Louis XI.: which makes them a little more ancient than the other
+ornaments of the building. As to the interior, I could gather nothing with
+certainty of the original character of the place from the present remains.
+The earth is piled up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered with
+grass: and an orchard, and rich pasture land (where I saw several women
+milking cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the
+_Caennois_ are rather proud of this building.
+
+Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its erection,
+and "putting the colophon" to this disquisition respecting the principal
+public buildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you how faithfully I am
+always yours.
+
+
+[96] ["Besides her numerous public schools, Caen possesses two Schools of
+    Art--one for design, the other for Architecture and Ornament--where
+    the Students are _gratuitously_ instructed." LICQUET.]
+
+[97] It is called _Vin Huet_--and is the last wine which a traveller
+    will be disposed to ask for. When Henry IV. passed through the town,
+    he could not conceive why such excellent grapes should produce such
+    execrable wine. I owe this intelligence to Mons. LICQUET.
+
+[98] Somewhere about 150 English acres.
+
+[99] [I had before said _twenty_--but Mons. Licquet observes, I might
+    have said--thirty thousand pairs of hands.]
+
+[100] Caen was celebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. Consult
+    BOURGUEVILLE: _Antiquitez de Caen_; 1588, 8vo. p. 26.
+
+[101] The fauxbourgs of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy
+    contrast to what they appear to have done in the middle of the XVIth
+    century. Consult the pleasantly penned description of these fauxbourgs
+    by the first topographer of the place, BOURGUEVILLE: in his
+    _Antiquitez de Caen_, pp. 5, 6, 26.
+
+    It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority, that
+    long after the time even of the publication just referred to, the town
+    of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walls--upon the tops
+    of which three men could walk a-breast: and from thence the
+    inhabitants could discern, across those large and beautiful gardens,
+    "the vessels sailing in the river Orne, and unloading their cargoes by
+    the sides of walls." It appears indeed to have been a sort of lounge,
+    or fashionable promenade--by means of various ladders for the purposes
+    of ascent and descent.
+
+    Among the old prints and bird's-eye views of Caen, which I saw in the
+    collection of DE BOZE at the Royal Library at Paris, there is one
+    accompanied by three pages of printed description, which begins with
+    the lines of Guillaume Breton "Villa potens, opulenta, situ spatiosa
+    decora." See First Edition, vol. i. p. 274. Evelyn, in 1644, thus
+    describes the town of Caen. "The whole town is handsomely built of
+    that excellent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was
+    lead to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at
+    the entrance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke,
+    with well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches,
+    freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c. _Life and
+    Writings of J. Evelyn_, 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 52.
+
+[102] See the OPPOSITE PLATE.
+
+[103] It was a similar dépôt in Ducarel's time.
+
+[104] The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by
+    M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with
+    a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the
+    obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he
+    frankly allowed that "Monsieur l'Anglois se conduisait bien."
+
+[105] [The affair is now scarcely remembered; and the successful champion
+    died a natural death within about three years afterwards. Mons.
+    Licquet slenderly doubts portions of this tragical tale: but I have
+    good reason to believe that it is not an exaggerated one. As to what
+    occurred _after_ the death of one of the combatants, I am
+    unwilling to revive unpleasant sensations by its recapitulation.]
+
+[106] Bourgueville seems bitterly to lament the substitution of wells for
+    fountains. He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his own estimation,
+    whereby this desirable object might be effected: and then retorts upon
+    his townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at
+    _Lisieux, Falaise and Vire_--of which the inhabitants "n'ont rien
+    espargné pour auoir ceste decoration et commodité en leurs
+    villes."--spiritedly adding--"si j'estois encore en auctorité, j'y
+    ferois mon pouuoir, et ie y offre de mes biens." p. 17.
+
+[107] [I am most prompt to plead guilty to a species of _Hippopotamos_
+    error, in having here translated the word _Allemagne_ into
+    GERMANY! Now, although this translation, per se, be correct, yet, as
+    applicable to the text, it is most incorrect--as the _Allemagne_
+    in question happens to be a _Parish in the neighbourhood of
+    Caen_! My translator, in turn, treats me somewhat tenderly when he
+    designates this as "une méprise fort singulière." vol. ii. p. 25.]
+
+[108] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his
+    work; affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an
+    idea of one of the most disproportioned, ugly buildings imaginable.
+    Mr. Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front,
+    and of the elevation of compartments of the Nave; The former is at
+    once faithful and magnificent; but the lower part wants characteristic
+    markings.
+
+[109] It should be noticed that, "besides the immense benefactions which
+    William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death,
+    presented thereto the _crown_ which he used to wear at all high
+    festivals, together with his _sceptre and rod_: a cup set with
+    precious stones; his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia: as
+    also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his back."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 51. note. The story of the breaking
+    open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Conqueror's
+    remains, is told by Bourgueville--who was an _eye witness_ of these
+    depredations, and who tried to "soften the obdurate hearts" of the
+    pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that,
+    in his time "the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious
+    stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and
+    destroyed--and that the seats, chairs, &c. and all other wooden
+    materials were consumed by fire," p.171. Huet observes that a "Dom
+    Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie," religious of St.
+    Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year
+    1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huet's
+    time." _Origines de Caen_; p.248. The revolution was still more
+    terrible than the Calvinistic fury;--for no traces of the monument are
+    now to be seen.
+
+[110] The west window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ
+    built close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This
+    organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &c. _Ducarel_,
+    p.57. He then goes on to observe, that "amongst the plate preserved in
+    the treasury of this church, is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten
+    inches in diameter, gilt, and inlaid with antique medals. Tradition
+    assures us, that it was on this salver, that king William the
+    conqueror placed the foundation charter of the abbey when he presented
+    it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church. The edges of
+    this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a
+    little turned up, and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal;
+    on the obverse whereof is this legend, [Greek: Ausander Aukonos] but
+    it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other
+    medals, forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite
+    through; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the
+    medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation."
+
+[111] Yet Bourgueville's description of the group, as it appeared in his
+    time, trips up the heels of his own conjecture. He says that there
+    were, besides the two figures above mentioned, "vn autre homme et
+    femme à genoux, comme s'ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur
+    enfant, qui est vne antiquité de grand remarque dont je ne puis donner
+    autre certitude de l'histoire." _Antiquitez de Caen_; p.39. Now,
+    it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in
+    existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend
+    Mr. Douce--that it is a representation of the received story, in the
+    middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who demanded
+    justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who had just
+    mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition, replied,
+    that "he would listen to her on his return." The woman said, "What, if
+    you never return?" "My successor will satisfy you"--he replied--"But
+    how will that benefit you,"--resumed the widow. The Emperor then
+    descended from his horse, and enquiring into the woman's case, caused
+    justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say that the murderer
+    was the Emperor's own son.
+
+[112] [Since the publication of the first edition of this work, the figure
+    in question has appeared from the pencil and burin of Mr. Cotman; of
+    which the only fault, as it strikes me, is, that the surface is too
+    rough--or the effect too sketchy.]
+
+[113] Bourgueville has minutely described it in his _Antiquities_; and
+    his description is copied in the preceding edition of this work.
+
+[114] Bourgueville is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account
+    of the tower, &c. He says that he had "seen towers at Paris, Rouen,
+    Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres,
+    Angiers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those of St. Stephen
+    at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a
+    pyramidal form--but THIS TOWER OT ST. PETER exceeded all the others,
+    as well in its height, as in its curious form of construction."
+    _Antiq. de Caen_; p.36. He regrets, however, that the _name of
+    the architect_ has not descended to us. [It is right to correct an
+    error, in the preceding edition, which has been committed on the
+    authority of Ducarel. That Antiquary supposed the tower and spire to
+    have been built by the generosity of one NICHOLAS, an ENGLISHMAN."
+    Mons. Licquet has, I think, reclaimed the true author of such
+    munificence, as his _own_ countryman.--NICOLAS LANGLOIS:--whose
+    name thus occurs in his epitaph, preserved by Bourgueville.
+
+      _Le Vendredi, devant tout droict_
+      _La Saint Cler que le temps n'est froit,_
+      _Trespassa_ NICOLLE L'ANGLOIS,
+      _L'an Mil Trois Cens et Dix Sept._]
+        &c. &c.
+
+    Reverting, to old BOURGUEVILLE, I cannot take leave of him without
+    expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and information which
+    his unostentatious octavo volume--entitled _Les Recherches et
+    Antiquitez de la Ville et Université de Caen, &c_. (à Caen, 1588,
+    8vo.) has afforded me.
+
+    The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the most
+    critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote. His
+    plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely simple. Nor
+    does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of
+    topography are invaluable--as preserving the memory of things and of
+    objects, which, but for such record, had perished without the hope or
+    chance of recovery.
+
+[115] [Ten years have elapsed since this sentence was written, and the
+    experience gained in those years only confirms the truth (according to
+    the conception of the author) of the above assertion. Such a tower and
+    spire, if found in England, must be looked for in Salisbury Cathedral;
+    but though this latter be much loftier, it is stiff, cold, and formal,
+    comparatively with that of which the text makes mention.]
+
+[116] [For six months in the year--that is to say, from Lady Day till
+    Michaelmas Day--this great Bell tolls, at a quarter before ten, as a
+    curfew.]
+
+[117] A plate of it may be found in the publication of Mr. Dawson Turner,
+    and of Mr. Cotman.
+
+[118] Of this building Mr. Cotman has published the West front, east end,
+    exterior and interior; great arches under the tower; crypt; east side
+    of south transept; elevation of the North side of the choir: elevation
+    of the window; South side exterior; view down the nave, N.W.
+    direction.
+
+[119] Bourgueville describes the havoc which took place within this abbey
+    at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the
+    church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 172,) they proceeded to
+    commit similar ravages here:--"sans auoir respect ni reuerence à la
+    Dame Abbesse, ni à la religion et douceur feminine des Dames
+    Religieuses."--"plusieurs des officiers de la maison s'y trouucrent,
+    vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le coeur de ces
+    plus que brutaux;" p. 174.
+
+[120] Unless it be what he calls "the FORT OF THE HOLY TRINITY of Caen; in
+    which was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose
+    annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king
+    of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried on
+    against Charles the Dauphin, afterwards Charles V., &c."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 67. This castle, or the building once
+    flanked by the walls above described, was twice taken by the English;
+    once in 1346, when they made an immense booty, and loaded their ships
+    with the gold and silver vessels found therein; and the second time in
+    1417, when they established themselves as masters of the place for 33
+    years. _Annuaire du Calvados_; 1803-4; p. 63.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBÉ DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR AND LAMOUROUX.
+MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M. MOYSANT, PUBLIC
+LIBRARIAN. COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words, prepare to
+receive some account of _Society_,--and of things appertaining to the
+formation of the intellectual character. Caen can boast of a public
+Literary Society, and of the publication of its memoirs.[121] But these
+"memoirs" consist at present of only six volumes, and are in our own
+country extremely rare.
+
+[Illustration: ABBÉ DE LA RUE AEtat. LXXIV.]
+
+Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation throw a sort of
+lustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that stands upon _quite_ so lofty
+an eminence as the ABBÉ DE LA RUE; at this time occupied in publishing a
+_History of Caen_.[122] As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his
+countrymen; while his essays upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_ and the
+_Anglo-Norman Poets_, published in our _Archæologia_, prove that there are
+few, even among ourselves, who could have treated those interesting
+subjects with more dexterity or better success. The Abbé is, in short, the
+great archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a Visit
+at Lagouelle's. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth year. His
+figure is rather stout, and above the mean height: his complexion is
+healthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful quantity of waving white hair
+adds much to the expression of his countenance.[123] He enquired kindly
+after our mutual friend Mr. Douce; of whose talents and character he spoke
+in a manner which did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, as
+to--_not_ dining with me; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine in
+taverns. He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my further
+progress through Normandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I could
+have wished. He rarely visits Caen, although a great portion of his library
+is kept there: his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of
+a nobleman to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man, of his
+venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the evening
+of life, (after braving such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of
+the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and the
+respect of the virtuous and the wise.
+
+The study of _Natural History_ obtains pretty generally at Caen; indeed
+they have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expressly
+taught--and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX[124] is at once the chief ornament
+and instructor. This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turner
+furnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffected
+manners, and a countenance particularly open and winning. He is "a very
+dragon" in his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking
+some baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and which he
+handled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and facility. The
+library of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library: filled with
+sensible, solid, and instructive books--and if he had only accepted a
+repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle's, to
+meet his learned brother PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR, nothing would have been wanting
+to the completion of his character!
+
+You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aimé Lair. Prepare to receive a
+sketch of the character to which that name appertains. This gentleman is
+not only the life and soul of the society--but of the very town--in which
+he moves. I walked with him, arm in arm, more than once, through very many
+streets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic of
+architectural antiquity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person
+out of three, in our progress. "Je vous salue"--"vous voilà avec Monsieur
+l'Anglois"--"bon jour,"--"comment ca va-t-il:"--The activity of Pierre-Aimé
+Lair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of
+disposition. He is all kindness. Call when you will, and ask for what you
+please, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems to rise
+(and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untoward
+propensities. With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tune
+her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into every
+abode however gloomy, and every society however dull.
+
+But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not only is
+Pierre-Aimé Lair a lover and collector of tangible antiquities--such as
+glazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, and fractured capitals--all seen
+in "long array", up the windings of his staircase--but he is a critic, and
+a patron of the _literary_ antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told you
+in my last despatch) is the birth-place of MALHERBE; and, in the character
+now under discussion, it has found a perpetuator of the name and merits of
+the father of French verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary put forth
+a project for a general subscription "for a medal in honour of
+_Malherbe_,"[125] which project was in due time rewarded by the names of
+_fifteen hundred_ efficient subscribers, at five francs a piece. The
+proposal was doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the French; and
+luckily the execution of it surpassed the expectations of the subscribers.
+The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect execution. Not only, however,
+did this head of Malherbe succeed--but a feeling was expressed that it
+might be followed up by a _Series of Heads_ of the most illustrious, of
+both sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough for
+Lair: though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the _latter_
+design also. Accordingly, there has appeared, periodically, a set of heads
+of this description, in bronze or other metal, as the purchaser
+pleases--which has reflected infinite credit not only on the name of the
+projector of this scheme, but on the present state of the fine arts in
+France.
+
+Yet another word about Pierre-Aimé Lair. He is not so inexorable as M.
+Lamouroux: for he _has_ dined with me, and quaffed the burgundy and
+champagne of Lagouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better wines
+cannot be quaffed; and Malherbe and the Duke of Wellington formed the
+alternate subjects of discourse and praise. In return, I have dined with
+our guest. He had prepared an abundant dinner, and a very select society:
+but although there was no wand, as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm
+away the dishes, &c. or to interdict the tasting of them, yet it was
+scarcely possible to partake of one in four... so unmercifully were they
+steeped and buried in _butter!_ The principal topic of discourse, were the
+merits of the poets of the respective countries of France and England, from
+which I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among the
+greatest favourites with the French. The white brandy of Pierre-Aimé Lair,
+introduced after dinner, is hardly to be described for its strength and
+pungency. "Vous n'avez rien comme ca chez vous?" "Je le crois bien, (I
+replied) c'est la liquéfaction même du feu." We broke up before eight; each
+retiring to his respective avocations--but did not dine till five. I
+borrowed, however, "an hour or twain" of the evening, after the departure
+of the company, to enjoy the more particular conversation of our host; and
+the more I saw and conversed with him; the greater was my gratification. At
+parting, he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of all sizes, of his own
+publication; and I ventured to predict to him that he would terminate his
+multifarious labours by settling into consolidated BIBLIOMANIACISM. "On
+peut faire pire!"--was his reply--on shaking hands with me, and telling me
+he should certainly meet me again at _Bayeux_, in my progress through
+Normandy.[126] My acquaintance with this amiable man seemed to be my
+security from insults in the streets.
+
+Education here commences early, and with incitements as alluring as at
+Rouen. POISSON in the _Rue Froide_ is the principal, and indeed a very
+excellent, printer; but BONNESERRE, in the same street, has put forth a
+vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in a brochure of eight pages,
+of which I send you the first, and which you may compare with the specimen
+transmitted in a former letter.[127]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Chapolin, in the _Rue-Froide-Rue,_ has recently published a most curious
+little manual, in the cursive secretary gothic, entitled "_La Civilité
+honnête pour les enfans qui commence par la maniere d'apprendre et bien
+lire, prononcer et écrire_." I call it "curious," because the very first
+initial letter of the text, representing C, introduces us to the
+_bizarrerie_ of the early part of the XVIth century in treatises of a
+similar character. Take this first letter, with a specimen also of those to
+which it appertains.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse on that
+account) precepts of the same period; such as we see in the various
+versions of the "De Moribus Juvenum," of which the "_Contenance de la
+Table,"_ in the French language, is probably the most popular. It is
+executed throughout in the same small and smudged gothic character; and, as
+I conceive; can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not be
+dismissed without respectful mention of the typographical talents of LE
+ROY; who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmer
+and Bensley of the place.
+
+But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap popular
+pieces, there is no man who "drives such a trade" as PICARD-GUERIN,
+_Imprimeur en taille-douce et Fabricant d'Images_," who lives in the _Rue
+des Teinturiers,_ no.175. I paid him more than one visit; as, from, his
+"fabrication," issue the thousands and tens of thousands of broadsides,
+chap-books, &c. &c. which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from _one_ to
+_three_ sous, according as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood or
+upon copper:--Saints, martyrs, and scriptural subjects; or heroes,
+chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and Louis XVIII.
+le Désiré--are among the taille-douces specified in the imprints. Madame
+did me the honour of shewing me some of her choicest treasures, as her
+husband was from home. Up stairs was a parcel of mirthful boys and girls,
+with painting brushes in their hands, and saucers of various colours before
+them. Upon enquiry, I found that they received four sous per dozen, for
+colouring; but I will not take upon me to say that they were over or under
+paid--of so _equivocal_ a character were their performances. Only I hoped
+to be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreign
+country, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the most mean and
+minute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what was put before me, and
+made a selection sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil.
+Among the serious subjects were _two_ to which I paid particular attention.
+The one was a metrical cantique of the _Prodigal Son,_ with six wood cuts
+above the text, exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative. I
+will cut out and send you the _second_ of these six: in which you will
+clearly perceive the military turn which seems to prevail throughout France
+in things the most minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and
+leave his father's house, in the cloke and cock'd hat of a French officer.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _fourth_ of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled, "_L'Enfant
+Prodigue est chassé par ses maîtresses."_ The expulsion consists in the
+women driving him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is very
+probable, however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some of
+our own representations of the same subject; if, instead of examining (as
+in Pope's time)
+
+  ... the walls of Bedlam and Soho,
+
+we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from strings upon
+the wall at Hyde Park Corner.
+
+Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to describe to
+you, can rarely, in all probability, be the production of a London artist.
+It is called "_Notre-Dame de la bonne Délivrande_," and is necessarily
+confined to the religion of the country. You have here, first of all, a
+reduced form of the original: probably about one-third--and it is the more
+appropriate, as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of the
+dressing out of the figures of the VIRGIN and CHILD which are meant to
+grace the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in
+Normandy. Is it possible that one spark of devotion can be kindled by the
+contemplation of an object so grotesque and so absurd in the House of God?
+
+[Illustration: SAINTE MARIE, MÈRE DE DIEU, priez pour nous]
+
+To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in the
+original, would be a waste of time; but below are two good figures to the
+right, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is the
+following _accredited_ consoling piece of intelligence:
+
+    L'AN 830, _des Barbares descendent dans les Gaules, massacrent les
+    Fidèles, profanent et brûlent les Eglises. Raoul, Duc de Normandie, se
+    joint à eux; l'image de la Ste. Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les
+    ruines de l'ancienne chapelle jusqu'au règne de Henri I. l'an 1331.
+    Beaudouin, Baron de Douvres, averti par son berger qu'un mouton de son
+    troupeau fouillait toujours dans le même endroit, fit ouvrir la terre,
+    et trouva ce trésor caché depuis tant d'années. Il fit porter
+    processionnellement cette sainte image dans l'Eglise de Douvres: mais
+    Dieu permit qu'elle fut transportée par un Ange dans l'endroit de la
+    chapelle où elle est maintenant révérée. C'est dans cette chapelle
+    que, par l'intercession de Marie, les pécheurs reçoivent leur
+    conversion, les affligés leur consolation, les infirmes la santé, les
+    captifs leur delivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer échappent aux
+    tempêtes et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'opèrent journellement
+    sur les pieux Fidèles_.
+
+A word now for BIBLIOPOLISTS--including _Bouquinistes_, or venders of "old
+and second-hand books." The very morning following my arrival in Caen, I
+walked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast, and in the way
+thither stopped at a book stall, to the right,--and purchased some black
+letter folios: among which the French version of _Caesar's Commentaries,_
+printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It is
+reserved for Lord Spencer's library;[128] at a price which, freight and
+duty included, cannot reach the sum of twelve shillings of our money. Of
+venders of second hand and old books, the elder and younger MANOURY take a
+decisive lead. The former lives in the _Rue Froide_; the latter in the _Rue
+Notre Dame._ The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousand
+volumes, but I much doubt whether his stock amount to one half of that
+number. He unhesitatingly asked me two _louis d'or_ for a copy of the
+_Vaudevires_ of OLIVIER BASSELIN, which is a modern, but privately printed,
+volume; and of which I hope to give you some amusing particulars by and by.
+He also told me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of _Fust's Bible of
+1462,_ with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d'or. I only know that, if I had been
+librarian, he should not have had one half the money.
+
+Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative terms: for be it
+known that the son is "agé de soixante ans." Over his door you read an
+ancient inscription, thus:
+
+    "_Battu, percé, lié, Je veux changer de main_."
+
+This implies either (like Aladdin's old lamps for new) that he wishes to
+give new books in exchange for old ones, or that he can smarten up old ones
+by binding, or otherwise, and give them a renovated appearance. But the
+solution is immaterial: the inscription being as above. The interior of the
+younger Manoury's book repository almost appalled me. His front shop, and a
+corridor communicating with the back part of the house, are rank with
+moisture; and his books are consequently rotting apace. Upon my making as
+pitiable a statement as I was able of this melancholy state of things--and
+pleading with all my energies against the inevitable destruction which
+threatened the dear books--the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not one
+scintillation of sympathy. He was absolutely indifferent to the whole
+concern. In the back parlour, almost impervious to day-light, his daughter,
+and a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevated
+cauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner. I
+hurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies for the
+intrusion; but was told that none were necessary--that I might go where,
+and stay as long, as I pleased--and that any explanation would be given to
+my interrogatories in the way of business. I expressed my obligations for
+such civility; and gaining an upper room, by the help of a chair, made a
+survey of its contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as
+the only rational or desirable volume--half rotted with moisture--_Belon's
+Marine Fishes_, 1551, 4to; and placing six francs (the price demanded) upon
+the table, hurried back, through this sable and dismal territory, with a
+sort of precipitancy amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive of
+a very extraordinary effect--was the cheerfulness and _gaieté de coeur_ of
+these females, in the midst of this region of darkness and desolation.
+Manoury told me that the Revolution had deprived him of the opportunity of
+having the finest bookselling stock in France! His own carelessness and
+utter apathy are likely to prove yet more destructive enemies.
+
+But let us touch a more "spirit-stirring" chord in the book theme. Let us
+leave the _Bouquiniste_ for the PUBLIC LIBRARY: and I invite you most
+earnestly to accompany me thither, and to hear matters of especial import.
+This library occupies the upper part of a fine large stone building,
+devoted to the public offices of government. The plan of the library is
+exceedingly striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred and
+thirty-four, by eighty, French feet; and is supposed, apparently with
+justice, to contain 20,000 volumes. It is proportionably wide and lofty. M.
+HÉBERT is the present chief librarian, having succeeded the late M.
+Moysant, his uncle. Among the more eminent benefactors and Bibliomaniacs,
+attached to this library, the name of FRANCOIS MARTIN is singularly
+conspicuous. He was, from all accounts, and especially from the information
+of M. Hébert, one of the most raving of book-madmen: but he displayed,
+withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality towards his favourite
+establishment at Caen, which could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was
+also a man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literary
+propensities--a love of the LITERATURE OF HIS COUNTRY. He amassed a very
+large collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during the
+Revolution; but the public library became possessed of a great number of
+them. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which are now seen, is
+the following printed inscription: "_Franciscus Martin, Doctor Theologus
+Parisiensis, comparavit. Oretur pro co_." He was head of the convent of
+Cordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting was not
+always that which a public magistrate would call _legitimate_. He sought
+books every where; and when he could not _buy_ them, or obtain them by fair
+means, he would _steal_ them, and carry them home in the sleeves of his
+gown! He flourished about a century ago; and, with very few exceptions, all
+the best conditioned books in the library belonged to this magisterial
+book-robber. Among them I noted down with singular satisfaction the Aldine
+edition of _Stephanus de Urbibus_, 1502, folio--in its old vellum binding:
+seemly to the eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the
+_Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis_, printed by _Amerbach, at
+Basil_, in a glorious gothic character, 1510, folio, escape my especial
+notice--also the same Bibliomaniac's beautiful copy of the _Mentz Herbal_,
+of 1484, in 4to.
+
+But the obliquities of Martin assume a less questionable aspect, when we
+contemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but left behind
+ready for publication. It is thus entitled: _Athenæ Normannorum veteres ac
+recentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi è Normannia, &c._ It consists
+of one volume, in MS., having the authority of government, to publish it,
+prefixed. There is a short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pages
+of Latin verses beginning thus:
+
+    _In Auctorum Normannicorum Syllabum.
+      Prolusio metrica.
+    En Syllabus prodit palàm
+    Contextus arte sedula
+    Ex litteratæ Neustriæ
+    Auctoribus celebribus._
+      &c. &c.
+
+Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,[129] was the
+famous SAMUEL BOCHART; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic of
+distinguished celebrity. He was a native of Rouen, and his books (many of
+them replete with valuable ms. notes) are among the chief treasures of the
+public library, here. Indeed there is a distinct catalogue of them, and the
+funds left by their illustrious owner form the principal support of the
+library establishment. Bochart's portrait, with those of many other
+benefactors to the library, adorns the walls; suspended above the books:
+affording a very agreeable coup-d'oeil. Indeed the principal division of
+the library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect, is
+worthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an empire. The
+kindness of M. Hébert, and of his assistant, rendered my frequent
+sojournings therein yet more delectable. The portrait of his uncle, M.
+MOYSANT, is among the ornaments of the chief room. Though Moysant was large
+of stature, his lungs were feeble, and his constitution was delicate. At
+the age of nineteen, he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric in
+the college of Lisieux. He then went to Paris, and studied under Beau and
+Batteux; when, applying himself more particularly to the profession of
+physic, he returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap of
+Doctor of medicine; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for the
+successful exercise of his profession. He had cured a patient, after
+painful and laborious attention, of a very serious illness; but his patient
+chose to take liberties too soon with his convalescent state. He was
+imprudent: had a relapse; and was hurried to his grave. Moysant took it
+seriously to heart, and gave up his business in precipitancy and disgust.
+In fact, he was of too sanguine and irritable a temperament for the display
+of that cool, cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young
+physicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the honours or
+the wealth of the _Halfords_ and _Matons_ of the day! Our Moysant returned
+to the study of his beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the
+Society of the Jesuits was suppressed; and he was called by the King, in
+1763, to fill the chair of Rhetoric in one of the finest establishments of
+that body at Caen. He afterwards successively became perpetual Secretary of
+the Academy of Sciences, and Vice-President of the Society of Agriculture.
+He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts, and was
+selected to pronounce the public oration upon the marriage of the
+unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie Antoinette. He was now a marked and
+distinguished public character. The situation of PUBLIC LIBRARIAN was only
+wanting to render his reputation complete, and _that_ he instantly obtained
+upon the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united that
+of instructing the English (who were always in the habit of visiting Caen,)
+in the French language; and he obtained, in return, from some of his adult
+pupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old England.
+
+The Revolution now came on: when, like many of his respectable brethren, he
+hailed it at first as the harbinger of national reformation and prosperity.
+But he had soon reason to find that he had been deceived. However, in the
+fervour of the moment, and upon the suppression of the monastic and other
+public libraries, he received a very wide and unqualified commission to
+search all the libraries in the department of _Calvados_, and to bring home
+to Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this mission
+with truly public spirited ideas: resolving (says his nephew) to do for
+Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for England--and a _Monasticum
+Neustriacum_ was the commendable object of his ambition. He promised much,
+and perhaps did more than he promised. His curious collection (exclusively
+of the cart-loads of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his
+countrymen; but the guillotine was now the order of the day--when Moysant
+"resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility the plan of
+his work, as that nation always attached importance to the preservation of
+the monuments, or literary materials, of the middle ages."--He knew
+(continues the nephew) how proud the English were of their descent from the
+Norman nobles, and it was only to put them in possession of the means of
+preserving the unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly
+came over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants;
+their return was interdicted; and our bibliomaniac learnt, with
+heart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the national
+property in France. He was therefore to live by his wits; having spiritedly
+declined all offer of assistance from the English government. In this
+dilemma he published a work entitled "_Bibliothèque des Ecrivains Français,
+ou choix des meilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leurs
+ouvrages_,"--a collection, which was formed with judgment, and which was
+attended with complete success. The first edition was in four octavo
+volumes, in 1800; the second, in six volumes 1803; a third edition, I
+think, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the English and French
+languages. It was during his stay amongst us that he was deservedly
+admitted a member of the Society of Antiquaries; but he returned to France
+in 1802, before the appearance of the second edition of his _Bibliothèque_;
+when, hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between the
+book-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter place--and
+again perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen) upon the chair
+destined for the PUBLIC LIBRARIAN! It was to give order, method, and
+freedom of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the dissolution of
+the monastic libraries had caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysant
+and his colleagues now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as it
+was unintermitting. But the health of our generalissimo, which had been
+impaired during his residence in England, began to give way beneath such a
+pressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to prolong his
+life till towards the close of the year 1813: when he had the satisfaction
+of viewing his folios, quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged in
+regular succession, and fair array; when his work was honestly done; and
+when future visitors had only to stretch forth their hands and gather the
+fruit which he had placed within their reach. His death (we are told)[130]
+was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had consoled him in his latter
+moments; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfect
+composure for the breathing of his last sigh! Let the name of MOYSANT be
+mentioned with the bibliomaniacal honours which, are doubtless its due!...
+
+From Librarians, revert we to books: to the books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of
+Caen. The oldest printed volume contained in it, and which had been bound
+with a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript also, is
+Numeister's impression of _Aretinus de Bella adversus Gothós_, 1470, folio;
+the first book from the press of the printer. I undeceived M. Hébert, who
+had supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and the
+book is bound in boards; "all proper." The oldest _Latin Bible_ they
+possess, is of the date of 1485; but there is preserved one volume of
+Sweynheym and Pannartz's impression of _De Lyra's Commentary upon the
+Bible_, of the date of 1471-2, which luckily contains the list of books
+printed by those printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to Pope
+Sixtus IV. The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the _Juvenal_ of 1474,
+with the _Commentary of Calderinus_, printed at Rome; unless a dateless
+impression of _Lucan_, in the earliest type of Gering, with the verses
+placed at a considerable distance from each other, claim chronological
+precedence. There is also a _Valerius Maximus_ of 1475, by Cæsaris and
+Stol, but without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning.
+Of the same date is Gering's impression of the _Legenda Sanctorum_; and
+among the Fifteeners I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of _Jehan du
+Pré's_ printing (with a device used by him never before seen by me,) of an
+edition of _La Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, in its original binding. I
+collected, from the written catalogue, that they had only FORTY-FIVE works
+printed in the FIFTEENTH CENTURY; and of these, none were of first-rate
+quality.
+
+Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beautiful penmanship of a work,
+in three folio volumes, of the middle of the sixteenth century, entitled;
+_Divertissemens touchant le faict de la guerre, extraits des livres de
+Polybe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan, Machiavel, et autres bons autheurs."_
+It has no illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A _Breviary of the
+Church Service of Lisieux_, of the fifteenth century, has some pretty but
+common illuminations. It is not however free from injury. Of more intrinsic
+worth is a MS. entitled _Du Costentin_, (a district not far from Caen,)
+with the following prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. "Ces mémoires
+sont de M. Toustaint de Billy, curé du Mesnil au-parc, qui avoit travaillé
+toute sa vie à l'histoire du Cotentin. Ils sont rares et m'ont été accordes
+par M. Jourdan, Notaire, auquel ils appartenoient. Le p. (Père) le Long et
+Mons. Teriet de fontette ne les out pas connu. Moysantz." It is a small
+folio, in a neat hand-writing. Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and
+printed leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, is
+entitled _Le Moreri des Normans, par Joseph Andrié Guiat de Rouen:_ on the
+reverse of the title, we read, "_Supplément au Dictionnaire de Moreri pour
+ce qui concerne la province de Normandie, et ses illustres_."  A short
+preface follows; then an ode "aux Grands Hommes de Normandie." It is
+executed in the manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order. The
+first volume extends to the letter I, and is illustrated with scraps from
+newspapers, and a few portraits. It is written pretty fully in double
+columns. The portrait and biography of _Bouzard_ form an admirable specimen
+of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes to Z. The third
+volume is entitled "_Les trois Siècles palinodiques, ou Histoire Générale
+des Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe, &c._--by the same hand, with an equal
+quantity of matter. It is right that such labours should be noticed, for
+the sake of all future BLISS-like editors of provincial literature. There
+is another similar work, in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to _Coutance_.
+
+Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period, it may be
+right to inform you that the treasures of this Library suffered materially
+from the commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed interpreters of
+scripture destroyed every thing in the shape of ornament or elegance
+attached to book-covers; and piles of volumes, however sacred, or
+unexceptionable on the score of good morals, were consigned to the fury of
+the flames. Of the remaining volumes which I saw, take the following very
+rapid sketch. Of _Hours_, or _Church Services_, there is a prodigiously
+fine copy of an edition printed by _Vostre_, in 4to., upon paper, without
+date. It is in the original ornamented cover, or binding, with a forest of
+rough edges to the leaves--and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever
+saw. Compared with this, how inferior, in every respect is a cropt copy of
+_Kerver's_ impression of a similar work, printed upon vellum! This latter
+is indeed a very indifferent book; but the rough usage it has met with is
+the sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased with a fair, sound
+copy of the _Speculum Stultorum_, in 4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and
+pentameter verses, without date. Nor did I examine without interest a rare
+little volume entitled "_Les Origines de quelques Coutumes anciennes, et de
+plusieurs façons de parler triviales. Avec un vieux Manuscrit en vers,
+touchant l'Origine des Chevaliers Bannerets_; printed at Caen in 1672,
+12mo.: a curious little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of _Walton's
+Polyglot_, with an excellent impression of the head; and a large paper copy
+of _Stephen's Greek Glossary_; in old vellum binding, with a great number
+of ms. notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper _Photius_ of 1654, folio.
+But among their LARGE PAPERS, few volumes tower with greater magnificence
+than do the three folios of _La Sainte Bible_, printed by the Elzevirs at
+Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures; of the stateliest
+dimensions and most attractive forms. They also pretend that their large
+paper copy of the first edition of _Huet's Praeparatio Evangelica_, in
+folio, is unique. Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Library
+himself. The _Basil Eustathius_ of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as glorious
+a copy as is Mr. Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542.[131] It is in
+its pristine membranaceous attire--the vellum lapping over the fore-edges,
+in the manner of Mr. Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle,--most
+comfortable to behold! There is a fine large paper copy of _Montaigne's
+Essays_, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of the author.
+It is bound in red morocco, and considered by M. Hébert a most rare and
+desirable book. Indeed I was told that one Collector in particular was
+exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw a fine copy of the folio edition of
+_Ronsard_, printed in 1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copy
+of the well known _Liber Nanceidos_, from Bochart's library, with a few ms.
+notes by Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a French metrical
+version of the works of _Virgil, by Robert and Anthony Chevaliers d'Agneaux
+freres, de Vire, en Normandie_; published at Paris in 1582, in elegant
+italic type; considered rare. The same translators published a version of
+Horace; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of a
+certain work (in one of my late letters) called _Les Vaudevires d'Olivier
+Basselin_. They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to., large
+paper; and of which size only ten copies are said to be in existence. The
+entire title is "_Les Vaudevires Poesies du XVme. siècle, par Olivier
+Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour l'explication de
+quelques anciens Mots: Vire, 1811_." 8vo. There are copies upon pink paper,
+of which this is one--and which was in fact presented to the Library by the
+Editors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing, in india ink,
+representing the old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with Basselin
+seated at a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting his
+verses "à pleine gorge." This Basselin appears in short to have been the
+French DRUNKEN BARNABY of his day.
+
+"What! (say you:) "not _one_ single specimen from the library of your
+favourite DIANE DE POICTIERS? Can this be possible?"--No more of
+interrogatory, I beseech you: but listen attentively and gratefully to the
+intelligence which you are about to receive--and fancy not, if you have any
+respect for my taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane de
+Poictiers. On looking sharply about you, within this library, there will be
+found a magnificent copy of the _Commentaries of Chrysostom upon the
+Epistles of St. Paul_, printed by _Stephanus et Fratres a Sabio, at
+Verona_, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by much and by far the
+finest Greek work which I ever saw from the _Sabii_ Press.[132] No wonder
+Colbert jumped with avidity to obtain such a copy of it: for, bating that
+it is "un peu rogné," the condition and colour are quite enchanting. And
+then for the binding!--which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had
+the good sense and good taste to leave _untouched_. The first and second
+volumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the centre, and the
+half moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the arabesque ornaments, or
+surrounding border is in gilt. The edges are gilt, stamped; flush with the
+fore edges of the binding. In the centre of the sides of the binding, is a
+large H, with a fleur de lis at top: the top and bottom borders presenting
+the usual D and H, united, of which you may take a peep in the
+_Bibliographical Decameron._ The third volume is in dark blue leather, with
+the same side ornaments; and the title of the work, as with the preceding
+volumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, as
+before; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume, stamped at bottom
+and top with an H, surmounted by a crown. The sides of the binding are also
+fuller and richer than in the preceding volumes. This magnificent copy was
+given to the Library by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way.
+
+Another specimen, if you please, from the library of our favourite Diana.
+It is rather of a singular character: consisting of a French version of
+that once extremely popular work (originally published in the Latin
+language) called the _Cosmography of Sebastian Munster._ The edition is of
+the date of 1556, in folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is
+yet curious. It contains two portraits of Henry the Second ("HENRICVS II.
+GALLIARVM REX INVICTISS. PP.") and four of Holofernes ("OLOFARNE.") on each
+side of the binding. In the centre of the sides we recognise the lunar
+ornaments of Diane de Poictiers; but on the back, are five portraits of
+her, in gilt, each within the bands--and, like all the other ornaments,
+much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of Henry.
+There are also on the sides two pretty medallions of a winged figure
+blowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four horses: there
+are also small fleur de lis scattered between the ornaments of the sides of
+the binding. The date of the medallion seems to be 1553. The copy is
+cruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes it
+the more surprising that such pains should have been taken with its
+bibliopegistic embellishments. Upon the whole, this copy, for the sake of
+its ornaments, is vehemently desirable.
+
+And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M. Hébert, and
+bid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Caen. Indeed I am fully disposed to
+bid farewell to every thing else in the same town: not however without
+being conscious that very much, both of what I have, and of what I have
+not, seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the intellectual
+appetites of travellers. What I have seen, has been indeed but summarily,
+and even superficially, described; but I have done my best; and was fearful
+of exciting ennui by a more parish-register-like description. For the
+service performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to my
+Rouen details--except that there is here an agreeable PROTESTANT CHURCH, of
+which M. MARTIN ROLLIN, is the Pastor. He has just published a "_Mémoire
+Historique sur l'Etat Eclésiastique des Protestans François depuis François
+Ler jusqu'à Louis XVIII_:" in a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The task
+was equally delicate and difficult of execution; but having read it, I am
+free to confess that M. Rollin has done his work very neatly and very
+cleverly. I went in company with Mrs. and Miss I---- to hear the author
+preach; for he is a young man (about thirty) who draws his congregation as
+much from his talents as a preacher, as from his moral worth as an
+individual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies and gentlemen
+taking the sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe,
+according to the Geneva persuasion; but there was something so comfortable,
+and to me so cheering, in the avowed doctrine of Protestantism, that I
+accompanied my friends with alacrity to the spot. Many English were
+present; for M. Rollin is deservedly a favourite with our countrymen. The
+church, however, was scarcely half filled. The interior is the most
+awkwardly adapted imaginable to the purposes either of reading or of
+preaching: for it consists of two aisles at right angles with each other.
+The desk and pulpit are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; so
+that the voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapes
+the preacher. After a very long, and a very tediously sung psalm, M. Rollin
+commenced his discourse. He is an extemporaneous preacher. His voice is
+sweet and clear, rather than sonorous and impressive; and he is perhaps,
+occasionally, too metaphorical in his composition. For the first time I
+heard the words "_Oh Dieu!_" pronounced with great effect: but the sermon
+was made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin was
+frequently ingenious; logical, and convincing; and his address to the young
+communicants, towards the close of his discourse, was impressive and
+efficient. The young people were deeply touched by his powerful appeal, and
+I believe each countenance was suffused with tears. He guarded them against
+the dangers and temptations of that world upon which they were about to
+enter, by setting before them the consolations of the religion which they
+had professed, in a manner which indicated that he had really their
+interests and happiness at heart.
+
+A word only about COURTS OF JUSTICE. "A smack of the whip" will tingle in
+my ears through life;[133] and I shall always attend "_Nisi Prius_"
+exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning to
+the _Place de Justice_--which is well situated, in an airy and respectable
+neighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, pretty
+nearly in the English fashion; walking quickly to and fro with their
+clients, in the open air before the hall; and could not help contrasting
+the quick eye and unconcerned expression of countenance of the former, with
+the simple look and yet earnest action of the latter. I entered the Hall,
+and, to my astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteen
+people were present, I approached the bench; and what, think you, were the
+intellectual objects upon which my eye alighted? Three Judges ... all fast
+asleep! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding: one was literally
+addressing _the bench_ ... and the remaining two were talking to their
+clients in the most unconcerned manner imaginable. The entire effect, on my
+mind, was ridiculous in the extreme. Far be it from me, however, to
+designate the foregoing as a generally true picture of the administration
+of Justice at Caen. I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so long
+celebrated for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to exhibit
+proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned of old. I
+am willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike somniferous; and
+that if the acuteness of our GIFFORDS, and the rhetoric of our DENMANS,
+sometimes instruct and enliven the audience, there will be found Judges to
+argue like GIBBS and to decide like SCOTT.[134] Farewell.
+
+
+[121] _Mémoires de l'Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques
+    Manoury, 1757, 4 vols. crown 8vo. Rapport générale sur les travaux de
+    l'Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la ville de Caen,
+    jusqu'au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P.F.T. Delariviere, Secrétaire. A
+    Caen, chez Chalopin_. An. 1811-15. 2 vols. on different paper, with
+    different types, and provokingly of a larger form than its precursor.
+
+[122] [On consulting the Addenda of the preceding edition, it will be seen
+    that this work appeared in the year 1820, under the title of _Essais
+    Historiques sur la Ville de Caen et son Arondissement_, in 2 small
+    octavo volumes. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates
+    of relics of sculpture, and of titles with armorial bearings, this
+    work is entirely divested of ornament. There are some useful
+    historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and
+    the public archives; but a HISTORY of CAEN is yet a desideratum.]
+
+[123] [By the favour of our common friend Mr. Douce, I have obtained
+    permission to enrich these pages with the PORTRAIT of this
+    distinguished Archaeologist, from an original Drawing in the
+    possession of the same friend. See the OPPOSITE PLATE.]
+
+[124] He has recently (1816) published an octavo volume entitled
+     "_Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligènes Flexibles, vulgairement
+    nommés Zoophytes. Par J.V.F. Lamouroux_. From one of his Epistles,
+    I subjoin a fac-simile of his autograph.
+
+    [Illustration: Lamouroux]
+
+[125] The medallic project here alluded to is one which does both the
+    projector, and the arts of France, infinite honour; and I sincerely
+    wish that some second SIMON may rise up among ourselves to emulate,
+    and if possible to surpass, the performances of GATTEAUX and AUDRIEU.
+    The former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of
+    Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Bonaparte medals. [Has
+    my friend Mr. Hawkins, of the Museum, abandoned all thoughts of his
+    magnificent project connected with such a NATIONAL WORK?]
+
+[126] See post--under the running title Bayeux.
+
+[127] See page 172 ante.
+
+[128] It is described in the 2d vol. of the ÆDES ALTHORPIANÆ; forming the
+    Supplement to the BIBLIOTHECA SPENCERIANA: see page 94.
+
+[129] Goube, in his _Histoire du Duché de Normandie_, 1815, 8vo. has
+    devoted upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies;
+    vol. iii. p. 295. But in _Huet's Origines de la Ville de Caen;_
+    p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and satisfactory
+    details.
+
+[130] I am furnished with the above particulars from a _Notice
+    Historique_ of Moysant.
+
+[131] [A copy of this Roman Edition of 1542, of equal purity and amplitude,
+    is in the library of the Rev. Mr Hawtrey of Eton College: obtained of
+    Messrs. Payne and Foss.]
+
+[132] When I was at Paris in the year 1819, I strove hard to obtain from
+    Messrs. Debure the copy of this work, UPON VELLUM, which they had
+    purchased at the sale of the Macarthy Library. But it was destined for
+    the Royal Library, and is described in the _Cat. des Livres Imp. sur
+    Vélin_, vol. i. p. 263.
+
+[133] [Twenty-eight years have passed away since I kept my terms at
+    Lincoln's Inn with a view of being called to THE BAR; and at this
+    moment I have a perfect recollection of the countenances and manner of
+    Messrs. Bearcroft, Erskine, and Mingay,--the pitted champions of the
+    King's Bench--whom I was in the repeated habit of attending within
+    that bustling and ever agitated arena. Their wit, their repartee--the
+    broad humour of Mingay, and the lightning-like quickness of Erskine,
+    with the more caustic and authoritative dicta of Bearcroft--delighted
+    and instructed me by turns. In the year 1797 I published, in one large
+    chart, an _Analysis of the first volume of Blackstone's
+    Commentaries_--called THE RIGHTS OF PERSONS. It was dedicated to
+    Mr. (afterwards Lord) Erskine; and published, as will be easily
+    conceived, with more zeal than discretion. I got out of the scrape by
+    selling the copper plate for 50 shillings, after having given 40
+    guineas for the engraving of the Analysis. Some fifty copies of the
+    work were sold, and 250 were struck off. Where the surplus have lain,
+    and rotted, I cannot pretend to conjecture: but I know it to be a VERY
+    RARE production!]
+
+[134] [So in the preceding Edition. He who writes notes on his own
+    performances after a lapse of ten years, will generally have something
+    to add, and something to correct. Of the above names, the FIRST was
+    afterwards attached to the _Master of the Rolls_, and to a
+    _Peerage_: with the intervening honour of having been _Chief
+    Justice of the Common Pleas_. My admiration of this rapid elevation
+    in an honourable profession will not be called singular; for, after an
+    acquaintance of twenty years with Lord Gifford, I can honestly say,
+    that, while his reputation as a Lawyer, and his advancement in his
+    profession, were only what his friends predicted, his character as a
+    MAN continued the same:--kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and
+    generous. He died, 'ere he had attained his 48th year, in 1826.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE
+CATHEDRAL.
+
+_Bayeux, May 16_, 1818.
+
+
+Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at this place.
+The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places of worship in
+Normandy)[135] has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with a
+careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my
+heart beat with an increased action; and although this town be even dreary,
+as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it which, from associations
+of ideas, can never fail to afford a lively interest to a British
+antiquary.
+
+The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a half. The
+country, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionally
+gently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. Many pretty little
+churches, with delicate spires, peeped out to the right and left during the
+journey; but the first view of the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the others
+out of my recollection. I was conveyed to the _Hôtel de Luxembourg_, the
+best inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Mine
+hostess is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the art
+and craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow or
+disappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding year,
+been occupied in making a fac-simile of the "famous tapestry" for our
+Society of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine hostess had been acquainted with
+that gentleman: "Monsieur," "je le connois bien; c'est un brave homme: il
+demeura tout près: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables!" I will not
+disguise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman[136] pleased me "right
+well"--though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and to
+me somewhat _coarse_) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead of
+"vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, "une
+bouteille du vin de Beaune"--"Ah! ça," (replied the lively landlady,) "vous
+le trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n'y a pas du vin comme le vin de
+Beaune." Bespeaking my dinner, I strolled towards the cathedral.
+
+There is, in fact, no proper approach to this interesting edifice. The
+western end is suffocated with houses. Here stands the post-office; and
+with the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part of the owner, I had
+permission to examine, with my own hands, within doors, every letter--under
+the expectation that there were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed.
+But you must come with me to the cathedral: and of course we must enter
+together at the western front. There are five porticos: the central one
+being rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small.
+Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments; but the
+Calvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth
+century, have contrived to render their present aspect mutilated and
+repulsive in the extreme. On entering, I was struck with the two large
+transverse Norman arches which bestride the area, or square, for the bases
+of the two towers. It is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in the
+whole building. The interior disappointed me. It is plain, solid, and
+divested of ornament. A very large wooden crucifix is placed over the
+screen of the choir, which has an effect--of its kind: but the monuments,
+and mural ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamented
+arches, on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars,
+have rather an imposing effect: above them are Gothic ornaments of a later
+period, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. Let me now suppose that
+the dinner is over, and the "vin de Beaune" approved of--and that on a
+second visit, immediately afterwards, there is both time and inclination
+for a leisurely survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisle
+to the left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy green
+tint indicative of premature decay--arising from the lead (of that part of
+the roof,) having been stript for the purpose of making bullets during the
+Revolution. The extreme length of the interior is about 320 English feet,
+by 76 high, and the same number of feet in width. The transepts are about
+125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers, to the very top of the
+spires, are about 250 English feet in height.
+
+One of the most curious objects in the Cathedral, is the CRYPT; of which,
+singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till the year 1412. The
+circumstance of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut in
+the Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just above the southern
+entrance:
+
+  _En lan mil quatre cens et douze
+  Tiers iour d'Auril que pluye arrouse
+  Les biens de la terre, la journee
+  Que la Pasques fut celebree
+  Noble homme et Reverend Pere
+  Jehan de Boissey, de'la Mere
+  Eglise de Bayeux Pasteur
+  Rendi l'ame a son Createur
+  Et lors enfoissant la place
+  Devant la grand Autel de grace
+  Trova l'on la basse Chapelle
+  Dont il n'avoit ete nouvelle
+  Ou il est mis en sepulture
+  Dieu ueuille avoir son ame en cure. Amen_.
+
+It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular juncture.
+The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand _Ordination_. Before
+I had quitted my bed, I heard the mellow and measured notes of human
+voices; and starting up, I saw an almost interminable procession of
+priests, deacons, &c., walking singly behind each other, in two lines,
+leaving a considerable space between them. They walked bareheaded,
+chanting, with a book in their hands; and bent their course towards the
+cathedral. I dressed quickly; and, dispatching my breakfast with equal
+promptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western doors, thrown
+wide open, I shall never forget the effect produced by the crimson and blue
+draperies of the Norman women:--a great number of whom were clustered, in
+groups, upon the top of the screen, about the huge wooden
+crucifix;--witnessing the office of ordination going on below, in the
+choir. They seemed to be suspended in the air; and considering the piece of
+sculpture around which they appeared to gather themselves--with the
+elevation of the screen itself--it was a combination of objects upon which
+the pencil might have been exercised with the happiest possible result. An
+ordination in a foreign country, and especially one upon such an apparently
+extensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be slighted; and
+accordingly I determined upon making the most of the spectacle before me.
+Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt, I observed that some
+religious ceremony was going on there. The northern grate, or entrance,
+being open, I descended a flight of steps, and quickly became an inmate of
+this subterraneous abode. The first object that struck me was, the warm
+glow of day light which darted upon the broad pink cross of the surplice of
+an officiating priest: a candle was burning upon the altar, on each side of
+him: another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant; and
+each, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed ... to the admiration of some
+few half dozen casual yet attentive visitors--while the full sonorous
+chant, from the voices of upwards of one hundred and fifty priests and
+deacons, from the choir above, gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to the
+mysterious gloom below.
+
+I now ascended; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the ceremony
+through the intercolumniations of the choir: my diffidence, or rather
+apprehension of refusal, having withheld me from striving to gain
+admittance within the body. But my situation was a singularly good one:
+opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld this vast clerical congregation at
+times kneeling, or standing, or sitting: partially, or wholly: while the
+swell of their voices, accompanied by the full intonations of the organ,
+and the yet more penetrating notes of the _serpent_, seemed to breathe more
+than earthly solemnity around. The ceremony had now continued full two
+hours; when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it, and while the
+young candidates for ordination were prostrate before the high altar (the
+diapason stop of the organ, as at Dieppe,[137] sending forth the softest
+notes) the venerable Bishop placed the glittering mitre (apparently covered
+with gold gauze) upon his head, and with a large gilt crosier in his right
+hand, descended, with a measured and majestic step, from the floor of the
+altar, and proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of his
+office. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands, were
+touched with the holy oil--and thus became consecrated. On rising, each
+received a small piece of bread between the thumb and forefinger, and the
+middle and third fingers; their hands being pressed together--and, still
+with closed eyes, they retired behind the high altar, where an officiating
+priest made use of the bread to rub off the holy oil. The Bishop is an
+elderly man, about three score and ten; he has the usual sallow tint of his
+countrymen, but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black and
+overhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive. His whole mien has the
+indication of a well-bred and well-educated gentleman. When he descended
+with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high altar, me-thought I
+saw some of the venerable forms of our WYKEHAMS and WAYNEFLETES of
+old--commanding the respect, and receiving the homage, of a grateful
+congregation! At the very moment my mind was deeply occupied by the effects
+produced from this magnificent spectacle, I strolled into _Our Lady's
+Chapel_, behind the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousness
+into surprise--bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotely
+situated chapel, stands the IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN with the infant Jesus in
+her arms. This is the usual chief ornament of Our Lady's Chapel. But what
+drapery for the mother of the sacred child!--stiff, starch,
+rectangularly-folded, white muslin, stuck about with diverse artificial
+flowers--like unto a shew figure in Brook Green Fair! This ridiculous and
+most disgusting costume began more particularly at Caudebec. Why is it
+persevered in? Why is it endured? The French have a quick sensibility, and
+a lively apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts of
+sculpture and painting ... but the terms "joli," "gentil," and "propre,"
+are made use of, like charity, to "cover a multitude of sins" ... or
+aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this chapel,
+but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet affords proof of its
+pristine splendour. It is covered with gold and colours. Two or three
+supplicants were kneeling before the crucifix, and appeared to be so
+absorbed in their devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding
+object. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten the name) to whom
+the little chapel was dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting
+than the general voice of "praise and thanksgiving" with which the choir of
+the cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must know that
+fourscore candidates were ordained: that there are sixty clergy attached to
+the cathedral;[138] and that upwards of four hundred thousand souls are
+under the spiritual cognizance of the BISHOP OF BAYEUX. The treasures of
+the Cathedral were once excessive,[139] and the episcopal stipend
+proportionably large: but, of late years, things are sadly changed. The
+Calvinists, in the sixteenth century, began the work of havoc and
+destruction; and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth, as usual, put the
+finish to these devastations. At present, from a very respectable source of
+information, I learn that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed
+700_l_. per annum of our own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral
+without commending, in strong terms of admiration, the lofty flying
+buttresses of the exterior of the nave. The perpendicular portions are
+crowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the semi-arch
+takes its spring; and are in much more elegant taste than any other part of
+the building.
+
+Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL PALACE. Upon
+this palace the old writers dearly loved to expatiate. There is now however
+nothing but a good large comfortable family mansion; sufficient for the
+purposes of such hospitality and entertainment as the episcopal revenues
+will afford. I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence.
+In other words, my friend Pierre-Aimé Lair having promised to take his last
+adieu of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met him
+agreeably to appointment at the palace; but his host, with a strong corps
+of visitors, having just sate down to dinner--it was only one o'clock--I
+bade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow--to whom
+he had indeed mentioned my name. Our farewell was undoubtedly warm and
+sincere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kindness towards me without
+any possible motive of self interest; and as he lifted up his right hand,
+exclaiming "adieu, pour toujours!" I will not dissemble that I was sensibly
+affected by the touching manner in which it was uttered ... and PIERRE AIMÉ
+LAIR shall always claim from me the warmest wishes for his prosperity and
+happiness.[140] I hurried back through the court-yard--at the risk of
+losing a limb from the ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained)
+mastiff--and without returning the salute of the porter, shut the gate
+violently, and departed. For five minutes, pacing the south side of the
+cathedral, I was lost in a variety of painful sensations. How was I to see
+the LIBRARY?--where could I obtain a glimpse of the TAPESTRY?--and now,
+that Pierre Aimé Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he should
+quit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my friend, and smooth
+my access to the more curious and coveted objects of antiquity?
+
+Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflections, a tall figure, clad
+in a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner approached and
+addressed me. "Your name, Sir, is D----?" "At your service, Sir, that is my
+name." "You were yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet's, purchasing
+books?" "I was, Sir." "It seems you are very fond of old books, and
+especially of those in the French and Latin languages?" "I am fond of old
+books generally; but I now seek more particularly those in your
+language--and have been delighted with an illuminated, and apparently
+coeval, MS. of the poetry of your famous OLIVIER BASSELIN, which..." "You
+saw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet's. It belonged to a common friend of us
+both. He thinks it worth..." "He asks _ten louis d'or_ for it, and he shall
+have them with all my heart." "Sir, I know he will never part with it even
+for that large sum." I smiled, as he pronounced the word "large." "Do me
+the honour, Sir, of visiting my obscure dwelling, in the country--a short
+league from hence. My abode is humble: in the midst of an orchard, which my
+father planted: but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and should
+like to _read_ double the number I _possess_." I thanked the stranger for
+his polite attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily.... "This
+evening, Sir, if you please." "With all my heart, this very evening. But
+tell me, Sir, how can I obtain a sight of the CHAPTER LIBRARY, and of the
+famous TAPESTRY?" "Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) for I am watched in
+this place. You shall see both--but must not say that Monsieur ---- was
+your adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect you in
+the evening." We took leave; and I returned hastily to the inn, to tell my
+adventures to my companion.
+
+There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little anecdote, that I
+would not for the world add a syllable of explanation. Leaving you,
+therefore, in full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please,
+consider me as usual, Yours.
+
+
+[135] [Mons. Licquet supposes the crypt and the arcades of the nave to be
+    of the latter end of the eleventh century,--built by Odo, Bishop of
+    Bayeux, and Brother of William the Conqueror; and that the other
+    portions were of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. I
+    have very great doubts indeed of any portion being of a date even so
+    early as 1170.]
+
+[136] [Another demonstration of the fickleness and changeableness of all
+    mundane affairs. Mr. Stothard, after a successful execution of his
+    great task, has ceased to be among us. His widow published his life,
+    with an account of his labours, in a quarto volume in 1823. Mr.
+    Stothard's _Monumental Effigies_, now on the eve of completion,
+    is a work which will carry his name down to the latest posterity, as
+    one of the most interesting, tasteful, and accurate of antiquarian
+    productions. See a subsequent note.]
+
+[137] See page 12, ante.
+
+[138] ["That was true, when M. Dibdin wrote his account; now, the number
+    must be reduced one half." LICQUET, vol. ii. p. 121.]
+
+[139] Cette église ... étoit sans contredit une des plus riches de France
+en
+    vases d'or, d'argent, et de pierreries; en reliques et en ornemens. Le
+    procès-verbal qui avoit été dressé de toutes ses richesses, en 1476,
+    contient un détail qui va presque à l'infini." Bezières, _Hist.
+    Sommaire_, p. 51.
+
+[140] [But ONE letter has passed between us since this separation. That
+    letter, however, only served to cement the friendliness of our
+    feelings towards each other. M. Pierre Aimé Lair had heard of the
+    manner in which his name had been introduced into these pages, and
+    wished a copy of the work to be deposited in the public library at
+    Caen. Whether it be so deposited, I have never learnt. In 1827, this
+    amiable man visited England; and I saw him only during the time of an
+    ordinary morning visit. His stay was necessarily short, and his
+    residence was remote. I returned his visit--but he was away. There are
+    few things in life more gratifying than the conviction of living in
+    the grateful remembrance of the wise and the good; and THAT
+    gratification it is doubtless my happiness to enjoy--as far as relates
+    to Mons. PIERRE AIMÉ LAIR!]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THE
+BISHOP. THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY. TRADE AND
+MANUFACTURE.
+
+
+Well, my good friend! the stranger has been visited: his library inspected:
+his services accepted: and his character partly unfolded. To this I must
+add, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I mentioned slightly in my last)
+that both the Chapter LIBRARY and the famous TAPESTRY have been explored
+and examined in a manner, I trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardly
+know what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last epistle from
+Bayeux; which will be semi-bibliomaniacal and semi-archaeological: and sit
+down, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and my
+memory supply.
+
+The last was almost a purely _ecclesiastical_ dispatch: as I generally
+first take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a cathedral. Now then
+for THE STRANGER! ... for it would be cruel to prolong the agony of
+expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself, almost exclusively, with
+his pencil during the whole morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to
+_St. Loup_. After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained in
+the interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them ...
+their blossoms exhaling sweets of the most pungent fragrance. The road ran
+in a straight line from the west front of the cathedral, which, on turning
+round, as we saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, between
+masses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. I
+should tell you, however, that the obliging Monsieur ---- came himself to
+the Hôtel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode: for "humble" it
+is in every sense of the word. About two-thirds of the way thither, we
+passed the little church of _St. Loup_: a perfect Gothic toy of the XIIth
+century--with the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can be
+imagined.[141] It has a few slight clustered columns at the four angles,
+but its height and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey.
+We did not enter; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine the
+exterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet _laid_ with the
+heavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of BLORE make of this tiny,
+ancient, interesting edifice! At length we struck off, down a lane slippery
+with moisture--when, opening a large swinging gate--"here (exclaimed our
+guide)--lived and died my father, and here his son hopes to live and die
+also. Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage." It was a retirement of the most
+secluded kind: absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, and
+corn-stacks--for Monsieur ---- hath a fancy for farming as well as for
+reading. The stair-case, though constructed of good hard Norman stone, was
+much worn in the middle from the frequent tread of half a century. It was
+also fatiguingly steep, but luckily it was short. We followed our guide to
+the left, where, passing through one boudoir-like apartment, strewn with
+books and papers, and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called
+_pictures_, we entered a second--of which portions of the wainscoat were
+taken away, to shew the books which were deposited behind. Row after row,
+and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened--and
+there again they were stowed, "thick and threefold." A few small busts, and
+fractured vases, were meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. Of
+the books, it is but justice to say that _rarity_ had been sacrificed to
+_utility_. There were some excellent, choice, critical works; a good deal
+of Latin; some Greek, and a sprinkle of Hebrew--for Monsieur ---- is both a
+general and a sound scholar. On pointing to _Houbigant's Hebrew Bible_, in
+four folio volumes, 1753, "do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs?"
+said he!--"How, Sir," (replied I, in an exstacy of astonishment)--you mean
+to say fourteen _louis_?" "Not at all, Sir. I purchased it at the price
+just mentioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum"--resumed he, in the
+most unsuspecting manner. I then told him, as a sort of balsamic
+consolation, that a late friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on
+giving £12. for a copy by no means superior. "Ah, le bon Dieu!...." was his
+only observation thereupon.
+
+When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had entered, I
+observed with mingled surprise and pleasure, the four prettily executed
+English prints, after the drawings of the present Lady Spencer, called
+"_New Shoes"--"Nice Supper_" &c. Monsieur ---- was pleased at my stopping
+to survey them. "Ce sont là, Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me font
+toujours compagnie:"--nor can you conceive the very soft and gentlemanly
+manner, accompanied by a voice subdued even to sadness of tone, with which
+he made this, and almost every observation. I found, indeed, from the whole
+tenor of his discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state of
+cultivation: and on observing that a great portion of his library was
+THEOLOGICAL, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon which he
+thought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and stooping (for he is
+much taller than myself, ... which he easily may be, methinks I hear you
+add...) "Sir, said he, I am by profession a clergyman ... although now I am
+designated as an _ex-Curé_. I have lived through the Revolution... and may
+have partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope than of
+its atrocities. In the general hue-and-cry for reform, I thought that our
+church was capable of very great improvement, and I think so still. The
+part I took was influenced by conscientious motives, rather than by a blind
+and vehement love of reform;... but it has never been forgiven or
+forgotten. The established clergy of the place do not associate with me;
+but I care not a farthing for that--since I have here (pointing to his
+books) the very best society in the world. It was from the persuasion of
+the clergy having a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I was
+watched ... when walking near the precincts of the cathedral. I had been
+seeking you during the whole of the office of ordination." In reply to my
+question about his _archaeological_ researches, he said he was then
+occupied in writing a disquisition upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_, in which he
+should prove that the Abbé de la Rue was wrong in considering it as a
+performance of the XIIth century. "He is your great antiquarian
+oracle"--observed I. "He has an over-rated reputation"--replied he--"and
+besides, he is too hypothetical." Monsieur ---- promised to send me a copy
+of his dissertation, when printed; and then let our friend N---- be judge
+"in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry." From the open windows of this
+hermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust themselves, I essayed,
+but in vain, to survey the surrounding country; and concluded a visit of
+nearly two hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honest
+feelings. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark this
+amiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the account he had
+given of himself. "Be assured (said he, at parting) that I will see you
+again, and that every facility shall be afforded you in the examination of
+the Bayeux Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member of the
+corporation."
+
+On my way homeward from this ramble, I called again upon M. Pluquet, an
+apothecary by profession, but a book lover and a book vender[142] in his
+heart. The scene was rather singular. Below, was his _Pharmacopeia_; above
+were his bed-room and books; with a broken antique or two, in the
+court-yard, and in the passage leading to it. My first visit had been
+hasty, and only as a whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from a
+visitor, who was present, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of OLIVIER
+BASSELIN, of which I made mention to M.----. The same stranger was again
+present. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a different
+description above--books being called by the ancients, you know, the
+"MEDICINE OF THE SOUL." We mounted into the bed-room. M. Pluquet now opened
+his bibliomaniacal battery upon us. "Gentlemen you see, in this room, all
+the treasures in the world I possess: my wife--my child--my books--my
+antiquities. "Yes, gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic,
+even to madness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter branch
+out; but my means are slender--and my aversion to my _business_ is just
+about in proportion to my fondness for _books_. Examine, gentlemen, and try
+your fortunes."
+
+I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement: but alas! the treasures of
+M. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived,
+with great difficulty, to pick out something of a _recherché_ kind; and
+expended a napoleon upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly
+Greek, printed by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among the
+latter was the _Bellum grammaticale_ of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered at
+my rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos; but had
+he shewn me a good _Verard Romance_ or a _Eustace Froissart_, he would have
+found me as alert in running away with the one as the other. I think he is
+really the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen: certainly as a
+Bibliopolist. We concluded a very animated conversation on all sides: and
+upon the whole, this was one of the most variously and satisfactorily spent
+days of my "voyage bibliographique."
+
+On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. ---- was with me betimes. He
+said he had brought a _basket of books_, from his hermitage, which he had
+left at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come and examine them. In
+the mean while, I had had not only a peep at the Tapestry, but an
+introduction to the mayor, who is chief magistrate for life: a very Cæsar
+in miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather a
+priggish sort of a gentleman; observing that "my countryman, Mr.
+STOTHARD,[143] had been already there for six months, upon the same errand,
+and what could I want further?" A short reply served to convince him "that
+it would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he would allow another
+English artist to make a fac-simile of a different description, from a very
+small portion only."[144]
+
+I now called upon the Abbé Fétit, with a view to gain admission to the
+_Chapter Library_, but he was from home--dining with the Bishop. In
+consequence, I went to the palace, and wrote a note in pencil to the Bishop
+at the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair, and the object of my
+visit. The porter observed that they had just sat down to dinner--but would
+I call at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o'clock
+came, and I was punctual to the minute. I was immediately admitted into the
+premises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I was not an
+unexpected visitor--for he neither growled, nor betrayed any symptoms of
+uneasiness. In my way to the audience chamber I saw the crosier and robes
+which the Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony of ordination,
+lying picturesquely upon the table. The audience chamber was rather
+elegant, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerably
+expressive: and while my eyes were fastened upon two figures enacting the
+parts of an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in and
+announced the approach of MONSEIGNEUR l'EVEQUE. I rose in a trice to meet
+him, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop entered
+with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven canons who had
+been dining with him, and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a very
+significant manner. The flush of good cheer was visible in their
+countenances--but for their Diocesan, I must say that he is even more
+interesting on a familiar view. He wore a close purple dress, buttoned down
+the middle from top to bottom. A cross hung upon his breast. His
+countenance had lost nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre,
+and he was gracious even to loquacity. I am willing to hope that I was
+equally prudent and brief in the specification of the object I had in view.
+My request was as promptly as it was courteously granted. "You will excuse
+my attending you in person; (said the Bishop) but I will instantly send for
+the Abbé Fétit, who is our librarian; and who will have nothing to do but
+to wait upon you, and facilitate your researches." He then dispatched a
+messenger for the Abbé Fétit, who quickly arrived with two more trotting
+after him--and enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, which
+were dangling from the Abbé's fingers, I quickened my steps towards the
+Chapter Library.
+
+We were no sooner fairly within the library, than I requested my chief
+conductor to give me a brief outline of its history. "Willingly" he
+replied. "This library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from
+30, to 40,000 volumes, was originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by.
+Look through the window to your left, and you will observe the ruins of
+that building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original collection
+consisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even of living,
+clergymen--for, during the revolution, the clergy, residing both in town
+and country, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house, as a protection
+against private pillage. Well! in that same Chapter-house, the books, thus
+collected, were piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon the
+floor--reaching absolutely, to the cieling ... and for ten long years not a
+creature ventured to introduce a key into the library door. The windows
+also were rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for
+musket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usual
+dexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence; and when
+M. Moysant received the orders of government to examine this library, and
+to take away as many books as he wanted for the public library at Caen...
+he was absolutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presented
+themselves. From the close confinement of every door and window, for ten
+years, the rank and fetid odour which issued, was intolerable. For a full
+fortnight every door and window was left open for ventilation, ere M.
+Moysant could begin his work of selection. He selected about 5000 volumes
+only; but the infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly
+plundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder ... "et enfin
+(concluded he) vous voyez, Monsieur, ce qu'ils nous out laissé." You will
+give me credit for having listened to every word of such a tale.
+
+The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently about
+twenty-five feet square. The Abbé made me observe the XIIIth. volume of the
+_Gallia Christiana_,[145] in boards, remarking that "it was of excessive
+rarity;" but I doubt this. On shewing me the famous volume of _Sanctius_ or
+_Sanches de Matrimonio Sacramentario_, 1607, folio, the Abbé
+observed--"that the author wrote it, standing with his bare feet upon
+marble." I was well pleased with a pretty _illuminated ms. Missal_, in a
+large thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good condition; but
+did not fail to commend right heartily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of
+M. Fétit in having kept concealed the second volume of _Gering's Latin
+Bible_--being the first impression of the sacred text in France--when M.
+Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he pleased.
+No one knows what has become of the first volume, but this second is
+cruelly imperfect--it is otherwise a fair copy. Upon the whole, although it
+is almost a matter of _conscience_, as well as of character, with me, to
+examine every thing in the shape of a library, and especially of a public
+one, yet it must be admitted that the collection under consideration is
+hardly worthy of a second visit: and accordingly I took both a first and a
+final view of it.
+
+From the Chapter I went to the COLLEGE LIBRARY. In other words, there is a
+fine public school, or Lycée, or college, where a great number of lads and
+young men are educated "according to art." The building is extensive and
+well-situated: the play-ground is large and commodious; and there is a
+well-cultivated garden "tempting with forbidden fruit." Into this garden I
+strolled in search of the President of the College, who was not within
+doors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and with several
+young men either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On communicating
+the object of my visit, he granted me an immediate passport to the
+library--"mais, Monsieur, (added he) ce n'est rien: il y avoit autrefois
+_quelque chose_: maintenant, ce n'est qu'un amas de livres très
+communs." I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the Library;
+who absolutely apologized all the way for the little entertainment I
+should receive. There was indeed little enough. The room may be about
+eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great portion was in vellum
+bindings, in wretched condition. Here was _Jay's Polyglot_, and the
+matrimonial _Sanctius_ again! There was a very respectable sprinkling of
+_Spanish and French Dictionaries_; some few not wholly undesirable
+_Alduses_; and the rare Louvain edition of _Sir Thomas More's Works_,
+printed in 1566, folio.[146] I saw too, with horror-mingled regret, a
+frightfully imperfect copy of the _Service of Bayeux Cathedral_, printed
+in the Gothic letter, UPON VELLUM. But the great curiosity is a small
+brass or bronze crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon the
+mantlepiece; very ancient, from the character of the crown, which
+savours of the latter period of Roman art--and which is the only crown,
+bereft of thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour so
+represented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass. Upon
+the whole, as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old illumination,
+I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely three quarters of
+an hour in the library; but was fully sensible of the politeness of my
+attendant, and of the truth of his prediction, that I should receive
+little entertainment from an examination of the books.
+
+It is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to the famous
+BAYEUX TAPESTRY. Know then, in as few words as possible, that this
+celebrated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the INVASION OF ENGLAND by
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and the subsequent death of Harold at the battle of
+Hastings. It measures about 214 English feet in length, by about nineteen
+inches in width; and is supposed to have been worked under the particular
+superintendance and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. It was
+formerly exclusively kept and exhibited in the Cathedral; but it is now
+justly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious relic
+among the archives of the city. There is indeed every reason to consider it
+as one of the most valuable historical monuments which France possesses. It
+has also given rise to a great deal of archaeological discussion.
+Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have come forward successively--but
+more especially the first and last: and Montfaucon in particular has
+favoured the world with copper-plate representations of the whole.
+Montfaucon's plates are generally much too small: and the more enlarged
+ones are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have an
+idea how this piece of tapestry is preserved, or rolled up. You see it
+here, therefore, precisely as it appears after the person who shews it,
+takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy of Harold,
+from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy, is comparatively
+much defaced--that is to say, the stitches are worn away, and little more
+than the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains. It is not far from the
+beginning--and where the colour is fresh, and the stitches are,
+comparatively, preserved--that you observe the PORTRAIT OF HAROLD.[147]
+
+You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so called, are
+threads laid side by side--and bound down at intervals by cross stitches,
+or fastenings--upon rather a fine linen cloth; and that the parts intended
+to represent _flesh_ are left untouched by the needle. I obtained a few
+straggling shreds of the _worsted_ with which it is Worked. The colours are
+generally a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five
+feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more decayed and imperfect
+state than the first portion. But the designer of the subject, whoever he
+was, had an eye throughout to Roman art--as it appeared in its later
+stages. The folds of the draperies, and the proportions of the figures, are
+executed with this feeling.
+
+I must observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal subject,
+there is a running allegorical ornament;[148] of which I will not incur the
+presumption to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constellations,
+and the symbols of agriculture and of rural occupation, form the chief
+subjects of this running ornament. All the inscriptions are executed in
+capital letters of about an inch in length; and upon the whole, whether
+this extraordinary and invaluable relic be of the latter end of the XIth,
+or of the beginning or middle of the XIIth century[149] seems to me a
+matter of rather a secondary consideration. That it is at once _unique_ and
+important, must be considered as a position to be neither doubted nor
+denied, I have learnt, even here, of what importance this tapestry-roll was
+considered in the time of Bonaparte's threatened invasion of our country:
+and that, after displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awaken
+the curiosity and excite the love of conquest among the citizens, it was
+conveyed to one or two _sea-port_ towns, and exhibited upon the stage as a
+most important _materiel_ in dramatic effect.[150]
+
+I think you have now had a pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence; only
+that I ought not to close my despatches without a word or two relating to
+habits, manners, trade, and population. This will scarcely occupy a page.
+The men and women here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump
+countenances, wooden shoes, and the cauchoise--even to exceedingly _tall
+copies_ of the latter! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. The
+chief articles of commerce are _butter_ and _lace_. Of the former, there
+are two sorts: one, delicate and well flavoured, is made during winter and
+spring; put up into small pots, and carried from hence in huge paniers, not
+only to all the immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even to
+Paris--and is shipped in large quantities for the colonies. They have made
+as much as 120,000 lb. weight each season; but _Isigny_, a neighbouring
+village, is rather the chief place for its production. The other sort of
+butter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in fact is made
+throughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, in
+which the huge _alose_ was floating in the pot of the lively cuisiniere at
+Duclair[151]) is also chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicate
+tint, and a fine flavour, it is very much the contrary: and the mode of
+making and transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, and
+packed in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of exportation; and
+not less than 50,000 lb. weight is made each week. The whole profit arising
+from butter has been estimated at not less than two millions of francs: add
+to which, the circulation of specie kept up by the payment of the workmen,
+and the purchase of salt. As to _lace_, there are scarcely fewer than three
+thousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that article.
+
+The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and ingenious.
+In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an active carpenter, who
+had lost the fore finger of his right hand, hard at work--alternately
+whistling and singing--over a pretty piece of ornamental furniture in wood.
+It was the full face of a female, with closely curled hair over the
+forehead, surmounted by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace,
+and platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and the form and
+expression of the countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merry
+fellow had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, compared
+with his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air, perfectly
+characteristic of the taste of his country. The title and song were thus:
+
+  TOU JOURS.
+
+  TOUJOURS, toujours, je te serai fidèle;
+  Disait Adolphe à chaque instant du jour;
+  Toujours, toujours je t'aimerai, ma belle,
+  Je veux le dire aux échos d'alentour;
+  Je graverai sur l'écorce d'un hètre,
+  Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours,
+  Vient me dieter, en me faisant connaître;
+  Que mon bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. _Bis_.
+
+  Toujours, toujours, lui répondit Adèle,
+  Tu régneras dans le fond de mon coeur;
+  Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle,
+  Je promets bien t'aimer avec ardeur;
+  Je pense à toi quand le soleil se lève,
+  J'y pense encore à la tin de son cours;
+  Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je reve,
+  C'est au bonheur de te chérir toujours.
+
+He was a carver on wainscoat wood: and if I would give myself "la peine
+d'entrer," he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I secured a
+favourable reception, by purchasing the little ornament upon which he was
+at work--for a napoleon. I followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a
+soldier in Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the loss of his
+finger) through a variety of intricate passages below and up stairs; and
+saw, above, several excellently well finished pieces of furniture, for
+drawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood:--the outsides of which were
+carved sometimes with clustered roses, surrounding a pair of fond doves; or
+with representations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and the various
+_emblemata_ of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the old
+pieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather's mansion, upon
+taking possession of your estate: and indeed are of themselves no
+despicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from eight to twelve
+napoleons for one of these pieces of massive and elaborately carved
+furniture, some six or seven feet in height.
+
+In all other respects, this is a town deserving of greater antiquarian
+research than appears to have been bestowed upon it; and I cannot help
+thinking that its ancient ecclesiastical history is more interesting than
+is generally imagined. In former days the discipline and influence of its
+See seem to have been felt and acknowledged throughout nearly the whole of
+Normandy. Adieu. In imagination, the spires of COUTANCES CATHEDRAL begin to
+peep in the horizon.
+
+
+[141] [Mr. Cotman has an excellent engraving of it.]
+
+[142] He has since established himself at Paris, near the Luxembourg
+    palace, as a _bookseller_; and it is scarcely three months since
+    I received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no
+    longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart--and that the
+    phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard
+    and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at Bayeux,
+    has purchased books of him at Paris. [The preceding in 1820.]
+
+[143] Mr. Stothard, Jun. See page 221 ante. Mr. S's own account of the
+    tapestry may be seen in the XIXth volume of the Archæologia. It is
+    brief, perspicuous, and satisfactory. His fac-simile is one half the
+    size of the original; executed with great neatness and fidelity; but
+    probably the touches are a _little_ too artist-like or masterly.
+
+[144] [The facsimile of that portion of the tapestry which is supposed to
+    be a portrait of Harold, and which Mr. Lewis, who travelled with me,
+    executed, is perhaps of its kind, one of the most perfect things
+    extant. In saying this, I only deliver the opinions of very many
+    competent judges. It must however be noticed, that the Society of
+    Antiquaries published the whole series of this exceedingly curious and
+    ancient Representation of the Conquest of our Country by William I. Of
+    this publication, the figures measure about four inches in height: but
+    there is also a complete, and exceedingly successful fac-simile of the
+    first two figures of this series--of the size of the originals
+    (William I. and the Messenger coming to announce to him the landing of
+    Harold in England) also published from the same quarter. The whole of
+    these Drawings were from the pencil of the late ingenious and justly
+    lamented THOS. STOTHARD, Esq. Draftsman to the Society of
+    Antiquaries.]
+
+[145] A complete copy is of rarity in our own country, but not so abroad.
+    It is yet, however, an imperfect work.
+
+[146] There have been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing
+    book-collectors, who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic
+    impression of Sir T. More's Works of 1698; in folio. But this must
+    proceed from sheer obstinacy; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that
+    the latter edition contains the _Utopia_--whereas in the former it is
+    unaccountably omitted to be reprinted--which it might have been, from
+    various previous editions.
+
+[147] This figure is introduced with pursuivants and dogs: but great
+    liberties, as a nice eye will readily discern, have been taken by
+    Montfaucon, when compared with the original--of which the fac-simile,
+    in the previous edition of this work, may be pronounced to be PERFECT.
+
+[148] Something similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase
+    of St. Louis, in Millin's _Antiquités Nationales_. A part of the
+    border in the Tapestry is a representation of subjects from Aesop's
+    Fables.
+
+[149] Of a monument, which has been pronounced by one of our ablest
+    antiquaries to be "THE NOBLEST IN THE WORLD RELATING TO OUR OLD
+    ENGLISH HISTORY," (See _Stukely's Palæog. Britan._ Number XI.
+    1746, 4to. p. 2-3) it may be expected that some archæological
+    discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that,
+    after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyot, (and more
+    especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter--as to the period
+    of its execution--may be considered as well nigh, if not wholly, at
+    rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XIXth volumes of the
+    Archæologia. The Abbé de la Rue contended that this Tapestry was
+    worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the Empress Maud, which
+    would bring it to the earlier part of the XIIth century. The
+    antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability, that it
+    is a performance of the period which it professes to commemorate;
+    namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and
+    consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest, on
+    the part of William. This latter therefore brings it to the period of
+    about 1066, to 1088--so that, after all, the difference of opinion is
+    only whether this Tapestry be fifty years older or younger, than the
+    respective advocates contend.
+
+    But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the most
+    satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical
+    monument, is entitled, "_A Defence of the early Antiquity of the
+    Bayeux Tapestry_," by Thomas Amyot, Esq. immediately following Mr.
+    Stothard's communication, in the work just referred to. It is at
+    direct issue with all the hypotheses of the Abbé de la Rue, and in my
+    opinion the results are triumphantly established. Whether the
+    _Normans_ or the _English_ worked it, is perfectly a secondary
+    consideration. The chief objections, taken by the Abbé, against its
+    being a production of the XIth century, consist in, first, its not
+    being mentioned among the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his
+    decease:--secondly, that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the
+    church, it must have suffered, if not have been annihilated, at the
+    storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the
+    reign of Henry I., A.D. 1106:--thirdly, the silence of _Wace_ upon the
+    subject,--who wrote his metrical histories nearly a century after the
+    Tapestry is supposed to have been executed." The latter is chiefly
+    insisted upon by the learned Abbé; who, which ever champion come off
+    victorious in this archæological warfare, must at any rate receive the
+    best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and erudite manner in
+    which he has conducted his attacks.
+
+    At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbé de la
+    Rue's positions are all of a _negative_ character; and that,
+    according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be admitted, that
+    because such and such writers have _not_ noticed a circumstance,
+    therefore that circumstance or event cannot have taken place. The
+    first two grounds of objection have, I think, been fairly set aside by
+    Mr. Amyot. As to the third objection, Mr. A. remarks--"But it seems
+    that Wace has not only _not_ quoted the tapestry, but has varied
+    from it in a manner which proves that he had never seen it. The
+    instances given of this variation are, however, a little unfortunate.
+    The first of them is very unimportant, for the difference merely
+    consists in placing a figure at the _stern_ instead of the
+    _prow_ of a ship, and in giving him a bow instead of a trumpet.
+    From an authority quoted by the Abbé himself, it appears that, with
+    regard to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was
+    wrong; and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of
+    the superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of
+    variation, namely, that relating to Taillefer's sword, may be easily
+    dismissed; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard's
+    examination, that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be found in
+    the Tapestry," &c. But it is chiefly from the names of ÆLFGYVA and
+    WADARD, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the
+    conclusion in favour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous
+    production, may be safely drawn.
+
+    It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when the
+    work was in progress, or within the recollection of the workers, and
+    that they were attached to persons of some particular note or
+    celebrity, or rather perhaps of _local_ importance. An
+    eyewitness, or a contemporary only would have introduced them. They
+    would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or
+    historian, who lived a _century_ after the event. No antiquary
+    has yet fairly appropriated these names, and more especially the
+    second. It follows therefore that they would not have been introduced
+    had they not been in existence at the time; and in confirmation of
+    that of WADARD, it seems that Mr. Henry Ellis (Secretary of the
+    Society of Antiquaries) "confirmed Mr. Amyot's conjecture on that
+    subject, by the references with which he furnished him to _Domesday
+    Book_, where his name occurs in no less than six counties, as
+    holding lands of large extent under _Odo_, Bishop of Bayeux, the
+    tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was not a
+    _guard_ or _centinel,_ as the Abbé de la Rue supposes, but
+    that he held an _office of rank_ in the household of either
+    William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt." Mr. Amyot thus
+    spiritedly concludes:--alluding to the successful completion of Mr.
+    Stothard's copy of the entire original roll.--"Yet if the BAYEUX
+    TAPESTRY be not history of the first class, it is perhaps something
+    better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the
+    costume and manners of that age, which, of all others, if we except
+    the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to
+    us;--that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with
+    them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language."
+
+    Mr. Amyot has subjoined a specimen of his own poetical powers in
+    describing "the Minstrel TAILLEFER'S achievements," in the battle of
+    Hastings, from the old Norman lays of GAIMAR and WACE. I can only find
+    room for the first few verses. The poem is entitled,
+
+      THE ONSET OF TAILLEFER.
+
+      Foremost in the bands of France,
+      Arm'd with hauberk and with lance,
+      And helmet glittering in the air,
+      As if a warrior knight he were,
+      Rush'd forth the MINSTREL TAILLEFER
+      Borne on his courser swift and strong,
+        He gaily bounded o'er the plain,
+      And raised the heart-inspiring song
+      (Loud echoed by the warlike throng)
+        Of _Roland_ and of _Charlemagne_,
+      Of _Oliver_, brave peer of old,
+        Untaught to fly, unknown to yield,
+      And many a Knight and Vassal bold,
+      Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood,
+        Dyed _Roncevalle's_ field.
+
+[150] M. Denon told me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the
+    commands of Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this
+    Tapestry for three months; that it was displayed in due form and
+    ceremony in the Museum; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of
+    it, (which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he
+    returned it to Bayeux--as it was considered to be the peculiar
+    property of that place.
+
+[151] See p. 109 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES. ENVIRONS.
+AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY.
+
+
+I send you this despatch close to the very Cathedral, whose spires, while
+yet at Bayeux, were already glimmering in the horizon of my imagination.
+The journey hither has been in every respect the most beautiful and
+interesting that I have experienced on _this_ side the Seine. I have seen
+something like undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams,
+and well-peopled villages; and an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, as well
+as the charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied me from one cathedral
+to the other.
+
+I left the _Hôtel de Luxembourg_, at Bayeux, in a hired cabriolet with a
+pair of horses, about five in the afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot,
+for ST. LO: which latter place I entered by moon-light. The road, as usual,
+was broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, and
+fir. As I just observed to you, I entered St. Lo by moon-light: the double
+towers of the great cathedral-like looking church having a grand and even
+romantic effect on approaching the town. An old castle, or rather a mere
+round-tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering it. Passing
+the porch, or west end of the church, sometimes descending, at others
+ascending--midst close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which cast
+a deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out the moon beams for several
+hundred yards--and pursuing a winding route, I at length stopped at the
+door of the principal hôtel--_au Grand Coq!_ I laughed heartily when I
+heard its name; for with the strictest adherence to truth the adjective
+ought to have been _petit!_
+
+However, the beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee, with which I
+was quickly served, proved to be excellent. I strolled out, on a
+_reconnoissance_, about half-past nine; but owing to the deep shadows from
+the moon, arising from the narrowness of the streets, I could make out
+nothing satisfactory of the locale. The church, however, promised a rich
+treat on the morrow. As soon as the morrow came, I betook myself to the
+church. It was Sunday morning. The square, before the west front of the
+church, was the rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks: but what was
+my astonishment on observing in one corner of it, a quack doctor vending
+powder for the effectual _polishing of metals_. He had just beaten his
+drum, in order to collect his audience; and having got a good assemblage,
+was full of the virtues of his wares--which were pronounced to be also
+"equally efficacious for _complaints in the stomach!_"
+
+This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied, by a rival
+charlatan, on horseback, with _powders to kill rats_. The latter stood upon
+the same eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white--upon
+which were painted _black rats_ of every size and description; and in his
+harangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats, painted
+upon his dress, were _exact portraits_ of those which had been destroyed by
+means of his powders! This, too, on a Sunday morning. But remember
+Dieppe.[152]
+
+Having despatched my breakfast, I proceeded to survey the church, from
+which the town takes its name. First, for the exterior. The _attached_
+towers demand attention and admiration. They are so slightly attached as to
+be almost separated from the body or nave; forming something of that
+particular character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of
+Coutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St. Lo be
+not preferable, on the score of regularity and delicacy, to the similar
+portion at this latter place. The west front is indeed its chief beauty of
+exterior attraction; and it was once rendered doubly interesting by a
+profusion of alto-rilievo statues, which _disappeared_ during the
+commotions of the revolution. You ascend rather a lofty flight of steps to
+this entrance; and into which the whole town seemed to be pouring the full
+tide of its population. I suffered myself to be carried away along, with
+the rest, and almost startled as I entered the nave.[153] To the left, is a
+horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in her arms. The
+countenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as the colouring is most
+despicable. I never saw such a daub: and what emotions, connected with
+tenderness of feeling, or ardour of devotion, can the contemplation of such
+an object excite? Surely the parish must have lost its wits, as well as its
+taste, to endure such a monstrous exhibition of art.
+
+As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the very
+singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars and
+arches which sustain the roof. These pillars have _no capitals_, and the
+arch springs from them in the most abrupt manner. The arch itself is also
+very short and sharp pointed; like the tops of lancet windows. This mode
+obtains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right
+side aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also in
+the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way between
+the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I sure
+that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular
+lines have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo were the _first_ church
+upon which the architect, who built both _that_ and the cathedral at
+_Coutances_, tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be the
+effort of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardly
+and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other.
+Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is
+closely blocked up by surrounding houses.
+
+I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy
+machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place. There
+are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like
+those of the XVIth century, in our own country. But on quitting the town,
+in the road to Coutances,--after you come to what are called the old castle
+walls, on passing the outer gate--your eye is struck by rather an
+extraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built
+upon a rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;
+while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and
+fruitful river _Aure_.[154] The country immediately around abounds in
+verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortie
+from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely
+cheerful and gratifying.
+
+A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of the
+uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of rather
+respectable appearance, wanted springs: but the increasing beauty of the
+country, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautiful
+cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to the
+left. The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will.
+From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very
+interesting from the broad _route royale_, lined with birch, hazel, and
+beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of
+the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the whole
+landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and
+animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the _paysannes_ and
+_bourgeoises_ mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark _blues_
+and _crimsons_ were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace,
+tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a
+scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds--worthy of being
+copied-by the pencil of Claude.
+
+We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing his whip,
+and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an
+ascent, drove to the chief inn, the _Hôtel d'Angleterre_, within about one
+hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not
+readily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from
+the north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.
+There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics--thus
+returning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College,
+or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood. This College, which
+has suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and
+Bonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very
+distinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such a
+crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with
+white edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting before their
+doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon was indeed unusually
+serene.
+
+I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was impossible
+to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed; and
+a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction. As I looked
+around, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the
+columns round the choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choir
+and the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For a
+wonder, an _unpainted_ Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind the
+choir! There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church that
+merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some
+beautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noble
+families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deep
+well in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire.
+The pulpit is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.
+The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is a
+period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of
+this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbé de la
+Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily at
+the end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century.
+
+The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.[155]
+Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as
+far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great object was to
+mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing
+fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent
+panorama. Another story, one half the height of the present erection from
+the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of
+NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES. As I ascended this central tower, I digressed
+occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was
+somewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten,
+green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which arose here,
+as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution)
+to make _bullets_--and from the rain's penetrating the interior in
+consequence. As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures to
+notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows
+of the western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and
+magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I reached the
+summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around.
+
+The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of the
+sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse of
+ocean. On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded,
+undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. _Jersey_ appeared
+to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south,
+stood out the bold insulated little rock of _Granville_, defying the
+eternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be
+seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which
+I am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glow
+to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible to
+particularize. All was exquisitely refreshing and joyous. The heart beats
+with a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive and
+exhilarating scene! Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured vesture:
+and a prospect of a fine summer and an abundant harvest infused additional
+delight into the beholder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and
+respectable mansion or Palace of _the Bishop_; in the midst of a formal
+garden--begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges. As the Prelate bore a
+good character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which contained
+an inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community. In
+short, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central tower
+of the cathedral of Coutances!
+
+I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away, and the
+patience of the cuisinier at the Hôtel d'Angleterre had already been put
+somewhat to the test. In twenty minutes I sat down to my dinner, in a
+bed-room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk. The females,
+even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names; and _Victorina_ was
+that of the fille de chambre at the Hôtel d'Angleterre. After dinner I
+walked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances; and a more
+delightful evening's walk I never enjoyed. The women of every
+description--ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids--were all abroad;
+either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping groups, or straying
+in friendly pairs. The comeliness of the women was remarkable; a certain
+freshness of tint, and prevalence of the embonpoint, reminded me of those
+of our own country; and among the latter, I startled--as I gazed upon a
+countenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of a
+deceased relation! Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and
+interesting than they are at Coutances.
+
+The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and interesting: visit
+them in what direction you please. But there is nothing which so
+immediately strikes you as the remains of an _ancient Aqueduct_; gothicised
+at the hither end, but with three or four circular arches at the further
+extremity, where it springs from the opposite banks. Fine as was yesterday,
+this day has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of an
+opportunity of visiting the market, and of mingling with the country
+people. The boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplishing both these
+objects. Corn is a great article of trade; and they have noble granaries
+for depositing it. Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and much
+business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the midst of this ever-moving
+throng, my old friend the vender of rat-destroying powders--busied in the
+exercise of his calling, and covered with his usual vestment of white,
+spotted or painted with black rats. He found plenty of hearers and plenty
+of purchasers. All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man came
+forward to the edge of a bank--below which a great concourse was assembled.
+He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat, would sail to Jersey in the
+course of the afternoon; but the people seemed too intent upon their
+occupations and gambols to attend to him. I sat upon a bench and read one
+of the little chap books--_Richard sans peur_--which I had purchased the
+same morning.
+
+While absorbed in reflections upon the heterogeneous scene before me--and
+wishing, for some of my dearest friends in England to be also spectators of
+it--the notes of an hand-organ more and more distinctly stole upon my ear.
+They were soft; and even pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that
+the musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a Virgin, with the infant
+Jesus, in wax; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude to
+approach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a
+_Roxburgher_ to remain quiet on the bench: and accordingly starting up, and
+extending two sous, I became the fortunate purchaser of a little _chap_
+article--of which my friend BERNARDO will for ever, I fear, envy me the
+possession! The vender of the tome sang through his nose, as the organ
+warbled the following
+
+  _Cantique Spirituelle_.
+
+  EN L'HONNEUR DU TRÈS-SAINT SACREMENT,
+
+  _Qui est exposé dans la grande Eglise cathédrale de St. Pierre et
+  St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la miséricorde de Dieu_.
+
+  Air: du Théodore Français.
+
+  APPROCHEZ-VOUS, Chrétiens fidèles,
+  Afin d'entendre réciter:
+  Ecoutez tous avec un grand zèle,
+  Avec ferveur et piété,
+  Le voeu que nous avons fait,
+  D'aller au grand Saint Jacques;
+  Grace à Dieu nous l'avons accompli,
+  Pour l'amour de Jésus Christ.
+
+    Dieu créa le ciel et la terre,
+  Les astres et le firmament;
+  Il fit la brillante lumière,
+  Ainsi que tous les autres élémens,
+  Il a tiré tout du néant,
+  Ce qui respire sur la terre:
+  Rendons hommage à la grandeur
+  De notre divin Créateur.
+
+  [156]Tous les jours la malice augmente, Il y a très-peu de religion; La
+  jeunesse est trop petulante, Les enfans jurent le saint Nom. Et comment
+  s'étonneroit-on Si tant de fléaux nous tourmentent? Et si l'on voit tant
+  de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les pécheurs.
+
+  Souvent on assiste à l'Office, C'est comme une manière d'acquit, Sans
+  penser au saint Sacrifice; Ou s'est immolé Jesus Christ. On parle avec
+  ses amis, De ses affaires temporelles, Sans faire aucune attention Aux
+  mystères de la religion.
+
+  Réfléchissez bien, pères et mères, Sur ces morales et vérités: C'est la
+  loi de Dieu notre Père; C'est lui qui nous les a dictées: Il faut les
+  suivre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serons sur la terre. N'oublions
+  point qu'après la mort, Nos ames existeront encore.
+
+The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet accomplished the
+favourite and indispensable object of visiting the PUBLIC LIBRARY. I made
+two unsuccessful attempts; but the third was fortunate. I had no letter of
+introduction, and every body was busied in receiving the visits of their
+country friends. I was much indebted to the polite attention of a stranger:
+who accompanied me to the house of the public librarian, his friend, who,
+not being at home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The room
+in which they are contained--wholly detached--and indeed at a considerable
+distance from the cathedral--is about sixty English feet long, low, and
+rather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with books, in the most shameful
+state of confusion. I saw, for the first time in Normandy, and with
+absolute gladness of heart, a copy of the _Complutensian Polyglot Bible_;
+of which the four latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good:
+the earlier ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, since
+treading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of _Italian_ books.
+But the collection stands in dreadful need of weeding. Indeed, this
+observation may apply to the greater number of public collections
+throughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for his patient and truly
+friendly attention, and took my leave.
+
+In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert's, the principal bookseller,
+and "beat about the bush" for bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not
+crowned with success. M.J. told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries,
+that a Monsieur A----, a stout burly man, whom he called "un gros
+papa"--was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the
+acquisition of the same black-letter treasures; and that he swept away
+every thing in the shape of an ancient and _equivocal_ volume, in his
+annual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing from Manoury at Caen.
+M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man; and is not only "_Seul
+Imprimeur de Monseigneur l'Evêque"_ (PIERRE DUPONT-POURSAT), but is in fact
+almost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought of him a
+copy of the _Livre d'Eglise ou Nouveau Paroissien à l'usage du Diocèse de
+Coutances_, or the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very thick
+duodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, printed in a clear, new, and
+extremely legible character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It
+was bound in sheepskin, and I gave only _thirty sous_ for it new. How it
+can be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M. Joubert told
+me that the compositor or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36
+pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our own country, such
+prices would be at least doubled.
+
+It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of YOUNG
+ECCLESIASTICS. In short, the establishment now erecting for them, will
+contain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer than four hundred.
+It is also impossible not to be struck with the extreme simplicity of their
+manners and deportment. They converse with apparent familiarity with the
+very humblest of their flock: and seem, from the highest to the lowest, to
+be cordially received. They are indifferent as to personal appearance. One
+young man carries a bundle of linen to his laundress, along the streets:
+another carries a round hat in his hand, having a cocked one upon his head:
+a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a chair, or small
+table, in that of a fourth. As these Clergymen pass, they are repeatedly
+saluted. Till the principal building be finished, many of them are
+scattered about the town, living quite in the upper stories. In short, it
+is the _profession_, rather than the particular candidate, which seems to
+claim the respectful attention of the townsmen.
+
+
+[152] See page 13 ante.
+
+[153] Mr. Cotman has a view of this church, in his work on Normandy.
+
+[154] I suspect that the "peaceful" waters of this stream were frequently
+    died with the blood of Hugonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce
+    contests between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON, towards the latter half of
+    the sixteenth century. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest
+    towns in the Bocage; and the very pass above described, was the avenue
+    by which the soldiers of the captains, just mentioned, alternately
+    advanced and retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Lo: which
+    at length surrendered to the victorious army of the _latter_; the
+    leader of the Catholics. SEGUIN: _Histoire Militaire des Bocains_; _p.
+    340-384_; 1816, _12 mo_.
+
+[155] The reader will be doubtless gratified by the artist-like view of
+    this cathedral, by Mr. Cotman, in his _Architectural Antiquities of
+    Normandy_.
+
+[156] It cannot fail to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact
+    _rhyming verse_, though printed prose-wise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OF
+VIRE.
+
+_Vire_.
+
+
+Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of nature and of
+art, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare, therefore, for
+miscellaneous intelligence; but such as, I will make bold to predict,
+cannot fail to afford you considerable gratification. Normandy is doubtless
+a glorious country. It is fruitful in its soil, picturesque in the
+disposition of its land and water, and rich in the architectural relics of
+"the olden time." It is also more than ordinarily interesting to an
+Englishman. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this despatch--within
+two hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, which just
+now encloses me within its granite walls--here, I say, lived and revelled
+the illustrious family of the DE VERES.[157] Hence William the Conqueror
+took the famous AUBREY DE VERE to be a spectator of his prowess, and a
+sharer of his spoils, in his decisive subjugation of our own country. It is
+from this place that the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proud
+castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which turns a hundred
+mills in its course: but the warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, and
+the ramparts are levelled with the solid rock with which they were once, as
+it were, identified.
+
+I left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance; so completely
+_anglicised_ seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. The evening was
+beautiful in the extreme: and upon gaining the height of one of the
+opposite hills, within about half a league of the town, on the high
+Granville route, I alighted--walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, upon
+the lovely landscape around--the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming of
+one entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardly
+possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind; and it served as a
+just counterpart to the more expansive scene which I had contemplated, but
+the preceding evening, from the heights of that same cathedral. The
+conducteur of the Diligence rousing me from my rapturous abstraction, I
+remounted, and descended into a valley; and ere the succeeding height was
+gained, a fainter light floated over the distant landscape ... and every
+object reminded me of the accuracy of those exquisite lines of
+Collins--descriptive of the approach of evening's
+
+  ... gradual, dusky veil.
+
+For the first time, I had to do with a drunken conducteur. Luckily the road
+was broad, and in the finest possible condition, and perfectly well known
+to the horses. Every turning was successfully made; and the fear of
+upsetting began to give way to the annoyance experienced from the roaring
+and shouting of the conducteur. It was almost dark when I reached
+GRANVILLE--about twelve miles from Coutances; when I learnt that the horses
+had run six miles before they started with us. On entering the town, the
+road was absolutely solid rock: and considering what a _house_ we carried
+behind us (for so the body of the _diligence_ seemed) and the uncertain
+footing of the horses, in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, I
+apprehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light; when,
+approaching one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither our
+conducteur (in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the
+Hôtel d'Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, the passengers
+alighted with thankful hearts, and bespoke supper and beds.
+
+Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which renders an
+approach from thence almost impracticable. On every other side it is
+defended by the ocean, into which the town seems to have dropt
+perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water, Granville cannot be
+approached, even by transports, nearer than within two-thirds of a league;
+and of course at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply pointed
+rock and chalk: impenetrable--terrific--and presenting both certain failure
+and destruction to the assailants. It is a GIBRALTAR IN MINIATURE. The
+English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only a
+political diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the civil
+wars, and more particularly in those of the League, Granville, however, had
+its share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull, dreary, place; to be visited
+only for the sake of the view from thence, looking towards _St. Malo_, and
+_Mont St. Michel_; the latter of which I give up--as an hopeless object of
+attainment. Granville is in fact built upon rock;[158] and the houses and
+the only two churches are entirely constructed of granite. The principal
+church (I think it was the principal) is rather pretty within, as to its
+construction; but the decidedly gloomy effect given to it by the tint of
+the _granite_--the pillars being composed of that substance--renders it
+disagreeable to the eye. I saw several confessionals; and in one of them,
+the office of confession was being performed by a priest, who attended to
+two penitents at the same time; but whose physiognomy was so repulsively
+frightful, that I could not help concluding he was listening to a tale
+which he was by no means prepared to receive.
+
+An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied me. There was no
+public conveyance to _Vire_, whither I intended immediately departing, and
+so I hired a voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To a question
+about springs, the conducteur replied that I should find every thing "très
+propre." Having paid the reckoning, I set my face towards VIRE. The day,
+for the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond
+measure: and the wind (to the east) was directly in my face. Nevertheless
+the road was one of the finest that I had seen in France, for breadth and
+general soundness of condition. It had all the characteristics, in breadth
+and straitness, of a Roman route; and as it was greatly undulating, I had
+frequently some gratifying glimpses of its bold direction. The surrounding
+country was of a quietly picturesque but fruitful aspect; and had my seat
+been comfortable, or after the fashion of those in my own country, my
+sensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of _springs_, or
+any thing approximating to "très propre," I had to encounter a _hard
+plank_, suspended at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides;
+and as the road was but too well bottomed, and the conveyance was open in
+front to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I shall
+never forget) the misery of this conveyance.
+
+Fortunately the first stage was _Ville Dieu_. Here I ordered a voiture and
+post horses: but the master of the Poste Royale, or rather of the inn,
+shook his head--"Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pour
+la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir." I followed, with
+miserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an old
+tumble-down-looking phaeton--"la voilà, c'est la seule que je possède en ce
+moment"--exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its position
+since the fall of last years' leaf. It had been--within and without--the
+roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard;
+and although literally covered with the _evidences_ of such long and
+undisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as I
+discovered the wished for "_ressorts_" (or _springs_) I compromised for the
+repulsiveness of the exterior, and declared my intention of taking it
+onward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in
+requisition; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly
+away with this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely darted
+forward at a round rattling gallop for _St. Sever_. Blessings ever wait
+upon the memory of that artisan who invented ... _springs_!
+
+The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he galloped, or
+trotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our wishes--directed. The
+approach to our halting place was rather imposing. What seemed to be a
+monastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorish
+architecture; and indeed as I had occasional glimpses of it through the
+trees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in
+truth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, I
+made our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather of
+dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I entered the
+chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left--a very clean,
+large paper, and uncut copy of the folio _Rouen Missal_ of 1759. Every
+thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance:
+but the surrounding country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former
+days of prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--there
+had been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect contrast to
+such a state.
+
+On returning to the "_Poste Royale_" I found two fresh lusty horses to our
+voiture--but the postilion had sent a boy into the field to catch a
+_third_. Wherefore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third horse
+"réciproquement pour l'année"--parce qu'il faut traverser une grande
+montagne avant d'arriver à Vire"--was the explanatory reply. It seemed
+perfectly ridiculous, as the vehicle was of such slender dimensions and
+weight. However, I was forced to yield. To scold the postboy was equally
+absurd and unavailing: "parce que la tarif l'exigea." But the "montagne"
+was doubtless a reason for this additional horse: and I began to imagine
+that something magnificently picturesque might be in store. The three
+horses were put a-breast, and off we started with a phaeton-like velocity!
+Certainly nothing could have a more ridiculous appearance than my pigmy
+voiture thus conveyed by three animals--strong enough to have drawn the
+diligence. I was not long in reaching this "huge mountain," which provoked
+my unqualified laughter--from its insignificant size--and upon the top of
+which stands the town of VIRE. It had been a _fair_-day; and groups of men
+and women, returning from the town, in their blue and crimson dresses,
+cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day, and lighted up the features
+of the landscape. The nearer I approached, the more numerous and incessant
+were these groups.
+
+Vire is a sort of _Rouen_ in miniature--if bustle and population be only
+considered. In architectural comparison, it is miserably feeble and
+inferior. The houses are generally built of granite, and look extremely
+sombre in consequence. The old castle is yet interesting and commanding.
+But of this presently. I drove to the "_Cheval Blanc_," and bespoke, as
+usual, a late dinner and beds. The first visit was to the _castle,_ but it
+is right that you should know, before hand, that the town of Vire, which
+contains a population of about ten thousand souls, stands upon a commanding
+eminence, in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque country called
+the BOCAGE. This country was, in former times, as fruitful in civil wars,
+horrors, and devastations, as the more celebrated Bocage of the more
+western part of France during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage of
+Normandy was the scene of bloodshed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot
+persecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts through
+which I have travelled--from Caen hitherwards--that the hills and the dales
+rang with the feats of arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture and
+success of COLIGNY, CONDÉ, MONTMOGERY, and MATIGNON.[159]
+
+But for the Castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open space,
+terminated by a portion of the boulevards; having, in the foreground, the
+public library to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right:
+neither of them objects of much architectural consequence. Still nearer in
+the foreground, is a fountain; whither men, women, and children--but
+chiefly the second class, in the character of _blanchisseuses_--regularly
+resort for water; as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a lucky
+moment that Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his ready pencil
+transmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and faithful not
+to be followed up by a finished design. I send you a portion of this
+prettily grouped picture; premising, that the woman to the right, in the
+foreground, begged leave purposely to sit--or rather stand--for her
+portrait. The artist, in a short time, was completely surrounded by
+spectators of his graphic skill.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The "_Cheval Blanc_"--the name of the hotel at which I reside--should be
+rather called the "_Cheval Noir_;" for a more dark, dingy, and even dirty
+residence, for a traveller of any _nasal_ or _ocular_ sensibility, can be
+rarely visited. My bed room is hung with tapestry; which, for aught I know
+to the contrary, may represent the daring exploits of MONTGOMERY and
+MATIGNON: but which is so begrimed with filth that there is no decyphering
+the subjects worked upon it.
+
+On leaving the inn--and making your way to the top of the street--you turn
+to the left; but on looking down, again to the left, you observe, below
+you, the great high road leading to _Caen_, which has a noble appearance.
+Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is intersected with the
+"_routes royales_" cannot fail to strike a stranger; especially as these
+roads run over hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equally
+abundant in their respective harvests. The immediate vicinity of the town
+is as remarkable for its picturesque objects of scenery as for its high
+state of cultivation; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever part
+visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment to be
+experienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the scenery, from
+these heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about Matlock. There is
+plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern; while another _Derwent_, less
+turbid and muddy, meanders below. Thus much for a general, but hasty sketch
+of the town of Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the _interior_
+of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto only
+contemplated the _roofs_.
+
+And yet I must not close my despatch without performing my promise about
+the CASTLE; of which indeed (as you will see by the subjoined miniature
+view) only a sort of ruinous shell remains. Its age may be a little towards
+the end of the thirteenth century. The stone is of a deep reddish tint: and
+although what remains is only a portion of the _keep_, yet I can never
+suppose it, even in its state of original integrity, to have been of very
+capacious dimensions. Its site is most commanding.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+[157] The reader will find the fullest particulars relating to this
+    once-distinguished family, in _Halstead's Genealogical Memoirs of
+    Noble Families, &c_.: a book it is true, of extreme scarcity. In lieu
+    of it let him consult _Collin's Noble Families_.
+
+[158] [Mons. Licquet tells us, that in 1439, a Seigneur of Gratot, ceded
+    the rock of Granville to an English Nobleman, on the day of St. John
+    the Baptist, on receiving the homage of a hat of red roses. The
+    Nobleman intended to build a town there; but Henry VI. dispossessed
+    him of it, and built fortifications in 1440. Charles VII. in turn,
+    dispossessed Henry; but the additional fortifications which he built
+    were demolished by order of Louis XIV. &c.]
+
+[159] An epitomised account of these civil commotions will be found in the
+    _Histoire Militaire des Bocains, par_ M. RICHARD SEGUIN; _a
+    Vire_, 1816; 12mo. of which work, and of its author, some notice
+    will be taken in the following pages.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LARENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M.
+SÉGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.
+
+
+It is a sad rainy day; and having no temptation to stir abroad, I have shut
+myself up by the side of a huge wood fire--(surrounded by the dingy
+tapestry, of which my last letter did not make very honourable mention) in
+a thoroughly communicative mood--to make you acquainted with all that has
+passed since my previous despatch. Books and the Bibliomania be the chief
+"burden of my present song!" You may remember, in my account of the public
+library at Caen, that some mention was made of a certain OLIVIER
+BASSELIN--whom I designated as the DRUNKEN BARNABY _of Normandy_. Well, my
+friend--I have been at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme, by
+the possession of a copy of the _Vaudevires_ of that said Olivier
+Basselin--and from the hands, too, of one of his principal editors ...
+Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Avocat, et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit.
+This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the beloved library at
+Althorp. But let me tell my tale my own way.
+
+Hard by the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, (the best, bad as it is--and
+indeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of the name of ADAM. He is
+the principal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the same craft.
+After discoursing upon sundry desultory topics--and particularly examining
+the _books of Education_, among which I was both surprised and pleased to
+find the _Distichs of Muretus_[160]--I expressed my regret at having
+travelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting with one single
+copy of the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_ for sale. "It is not very
+surprising, Sir, since it is a privately printed book, and was never
+intended for sale. The impression too is very limited. You know, Sir, that
+the book was published here--and--" "Then I begin to be confident about
+obtaining it"--replied I. "Gently, Sir;--" resumed Monsieur Adam--"it is
+not to be bought, even here. But do you know no one...?" "Not a creature."
+"Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Englishman. One of its principal
+editors--a very gallant _Bibliomaniac_--who is a great collector and lover
+of the literature of your country--(here I picked up courage and gaiety of
+heart) lives in this town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him."
+Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a letter of
+introduction--"Ce n'est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. Il aime vos
+compatriotes; et soyez persuadé de l'accueil le plus favorable." Methought
+Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet heard a Norman
+speak.[161]
+
+In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to return with an account of
+my reception) and five minutes brought me into the presence of Monsieur
+Lanon de Larenaudiere, Président du Tribunal, &c. It is not possible for me
+to convey to you a notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of
+heart, that marked the reception which this gentleman instantly gave me:
+and I will frankly own that I was as much "abashed" as ever our ancient
+friend Caxton had been--in the presence of his patroness the Duchess of
+Burgundy. I followed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly up stairs;
+and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of them
+English) lying upon the window seats of the first landing-place; much after
+the fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence,
+not quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster Abbey.
+
+On gaining the first floor, mine host turned the keys of the doors of two
+contiguous rooms, and exclaimed, "VOILA MA BIBLIOTHEQUE!" The air of
+conscious triumph with which these words were uttered, delighted me
+infinitely; but my delight was much increased on a leisurely survey of one
+of the prettiest, most useful, and commendable collections of books,
+chiefly in the department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had ever
+witnessed. Monsieur de Larenaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, of
+which _eight hundred are English_. But the owner is especially fond of
+poetical archaeology; in other words, of collecting every work which
+displays the progress of French and English poetry in the middle and
+immediately following ages; and talks of _Trouveurs_ and _Troubadours_ with
+an enthusiasm approaching to extacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to our
+Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey; tells you how dearly he loves them; but
+yet leads you to conclude that he _rather_ prefers _Le Grand, Ginguené,
+Sismondi_, and _Raynouard_. Of the venerable living oracle in these
+matters, the Abbé de la Rue, he said he considered him as "un peu trop
+systématique." In short, M. de Larenaudiere has almost a complete critical
+collection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poetry; and was most
+anxious and inquisitive about the present state of cultivation of that
+branch of literature in England: adding, that he himself meditated a work
+upon the French poetry of the XIIth and XIIIth centuries. He said he
+thought his library might be worth about 25,000 francs: nor did I consider
+such a valuation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and incessantly;
+but he talks well: and spoke of the renown of a certain library in _St.
+James's Place_, in a manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse and
+warm the blood of its Librarian. I concluded an interview of nearly two
+hours, by his compliance with my wish to dine with me on the following day:
+although he was quite urgent in bargaining for the previous measure of my
+tasting his _pôtage_ and _vol au vent_. But the shortness and constant
+occupation of my time would not allow me to accede to it. M. de
+Larenaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard, drew forth an uncut
+copy, stitched in blue spotted paper, of his beloved _Vaudevires_ of
+OLIVIER BASSELIN:[162] and presenting it to me, added "Conservez le, pour
+l'amour de moi." You may be assured that I received such a present in the
+most gracious manner I was capable of--but instantly and honestly
+added--"permettez qu'il soit déposé dans la bibliothèque de Milord S...?
+"C'est la même chose"--rejoined he; and giving me the address of the public
+librarian, we separated in the most cordial manner till the morrow.
+
+I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and held aloft
+my blue-covered copy of the _Vaudevires_ as an unquestionable proof of the
+successful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere. Leaving the
+precious cargo with him, and telling him that I purposed immediately
+visiting the public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness about
+books--and asked me if I had ever _published_ any thing _bibliographical_?
+"Car enfin, Monsieur, la pluspart des _Virois_ ne savent rien de la
+litérature angloise"--concluded he ... But I had just witnessed a splendid
+exception to this sweeping clause of censure. I then sought the residence
+of the Abbé Du MORTUEUX, the public librarian. That gentleman was from
+home, at a dinner party. I obtained information of the place where he might
+be found; and considering _two_ o'clock to be rather too early an hour
+(even in France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so important
+a function, I strolled in the neighbourhood of the street, where he was
+regaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of that time, I
+ventured to knock at the door of a very respectable mansion, and to enquire
+for the bibliographical Abbé. "He is here, Sir, and has just done dinner.
+May I give him your name?" "I am a stranger: an Englishman; who, on the
+recommendation of Monsieur Larenaudiere, wishes to see the public library.
+But I will call again in about an hour." "By no means: by no means: the
+Abbé will see you immediately." And forthwith appeared a very comely, tall,
+and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both as
+to form and powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a
+figure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning; and he
+told me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the place which I
+wished to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he took his
+hat--and in one minute, to my surprise, I found myself in the street with
+the Abbé de Mortueux, in the high way to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. In our way
+thither our discourse was constant and unrestrained. "You appear here;
+Monsieur l'Abbé, to be partial to literature;... but allow me first to
+congratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town." "For literature
+in general, we are pretty well disposed. In regard to the beauties of the
+immediate neighbourhood of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed,
+if we were not sensible of them." In five minutes we reached the Library.
+
+The shutters of the room were fastened, but the worthy Abbé opened them in
+a trice; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy, what appeared to be a
+genuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room could be scarcely
+more than twenty-two feet square. I went instantly to work, with eyes and
+hands, in the ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding something
+in the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French Chronicle, or
+Romance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes in vain! The history of
+the library is this:--The founder was a Monsieur PICHON; who, on being
+taken prisoner by the English, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided
+a long time in England under the name of TYRREL, and lived in circumstances
+of respectability and even of opulence. There--whether on the dispersion of
+the libraries of our Meads, Foulkes', and Rawlinsons, I know not--he made
+his collection; took his books over with him to Jersey, where he died in
+1780: and bequeathed them, about 3000 in number, to his native town of
+Vire. M. du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a little
+memorial about Pichon. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilst
+he lived among us) adorns the library; with which I hope it will go down to
+a distant and grateful posterity. The colouring of this portrait is faded:
+but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensible
+physiognomy.
+
+Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was untouched during the
+Revolution; while the neighbouring library of the _Cordeliers_ was
+ransacked without mercy. But I regret to say that the books in the
+cupboards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any thing very marvellous
+in the details of this collection; The old-fashioned library doors, of
+wood, are quite in character with what they protect. Among the earlier
+printed books, I saw a very bad copy of _Sweynheym and Pannartz's_ edition
+of the _De Civitate Dei_ of St. Austin, of the date of 1470; and a large
+folio of _Gering's_ impression of the _Sermons of Leonard de Utino_ printed
+about the year 1478. This latter was rather a fine book. A little
+black-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, somewhat tempted
+me; but I could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and half
+jocose, whether a napoleon would not secure me the possession of a piquant
+little volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend Guido
+Mercator?[163] The Abbé smiled: observing--"mon ami, on fait voir les
+livres ici; on les lit même: mais on ne les vend pas." I felt the force of
+this pointed reply: and was resolved never again to ask an Ecclesiastic to
+part with a black-letter volume, even though it should be printed by "my
+old friend Guido Mercator."
+
+Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I enquired of
+my amiable guide about the "LIBRARY OF THE CORDELIERS," of which he had
+just made mention. He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil
+law, and had been literally almost destroyed: that he had contrived however
+to secure a great number of "rubbishing theological books," (so he called
+them!) which he sold for _three sous_ a piece--and with the produce of
+which he bought many excellent works for the library. I should like to have
+had the sifting of this "theological rubbish!" It remained only to thank
+the Abbé most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions and
+searches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from his
+surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a "soyez tranquille," that
+the matter was not worth either a thought or a syllable; and ere we quitted
+the library, he bade me observe the written entries of the numbers of
+students who came daily thither to read. There were generally (he told me)
+from fifteen to twenty "hard at it"--and I saw the names of not fewer than
+_ninety-two_ who aspired to the honour and privilege of having access to
+the BIBLIOTHECA PICHONIANA.
+
+For the third time, in the same day, I visited Monsieur Adam; to carry
+away, like a bibliomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there a
+grave, stout gentleman--who saluted me on my entrance, and who was
+introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the name of SÉGUIN. He had been waiting
+(he said) full three quarters of an hour to see me, and concluded by
+observing, that, although a man in business, he had aspired to the honour
+of authorship. He had written, in fact, two rather interesting--but
+wretchedly, and incorrectly printed--duodecimo volumes, relating to the
+BOCAGE,[164] in the immediate vicinity of Vire; and was himself the sole
+vender and distributer of his publications. On my expressing a wish to
+possess these books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait his
+return with a copy or two of them. While he was gone, M. Adam took the
+opportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable tradesman; but
+that, having said some severe things of the manufactures of Vire in his
+_first_ publication,[165] relating to the _civil_ history of the Bocains,
+his townsmen sharply resented what they considered as reflections thrown
+out against them; and M. Séguin was told that perhaps his personal safety
+was endangered ... He wanted not a second hint--but fled from home with
+precipitancy: and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy, and
+burnt it before the door of his house. This, however, did not _cool_ the
+ardour of authorship in M. Séguin. He set about publishing his _military_
+history of the Bocains; and in the introductory part took occasion to
+retort upon the violence of his persecutors. To return to M. Séguin. In
+about ten minutes he appeared, with two copies in his hand--which I
+purchased, I thought dearly, at five francs each volume; or a napoleon for
+the four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell you
+that I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that I was well
+satisfied with Vire.
+
+Yesterday M. de Larenaudiere made good his engagement, and dined with me at
+five, in the salle à manger. This is a large inn; and if good fare depended
+upon the number and even elegance of female cooks, the traveller ought to
+expect the very best at the _Cheval Blanc_. The afternoon was so
+inviting--and my guest having volunteered his services to conduct me to the
+most beautiful points of view in the immediate neighbourhood--that we each
+seemed to vie with the other in quickly dispatching what was placed before
+us; and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting down, we
+were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that afternoon's
+ramble. The sun seemed to become more of a golden hue, and the atmosphere
+to increase in clearness and serenity. A thousand little songsters were
+warbling in the full-leaved branches of the trees; while the mingled notes
+of the _blanchisseuses_ and the milk-maids, near the banks of the rippling
+stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous harmony--as we gazed
+down from the overhanging heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep, and
+the orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may form some notion of the
+value of this rich and picturesque scenery, when I tell you that M. de
+Larenaudiere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which lets
+per acre at the rate of _6l._ _6s._ English. My guide was all gaiety of
+heart, and activity of step. I followed him through winding paths and
+devious tracks, amidst coppice-wood and fern--not however till I had
+viewed, from one particular spot upon the heights, a most commanding and
+interesting panorama of the town of Vire.
+
+In our perambulation, we discoursed of English poetry; and I found that
+THOMSON was as great a favourite with my guide as with the rest of his
+countrymen. Indeed he frankly told me that he had translated him into
+French verse, and intended to publish his translation. I urged him to quote
+specimens; which he did with a readiness and force, and felicity of
+version, that quite delighted me. He thoroughly understands the original;
+and in the description of a cataract, or mountain torrent, from the Summer,
+he appeared to me almost to surpass it. My guide then proceeded to quote
+Young and Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two great Whig and Tory
+Reviews. He said he preferred the politics and vivacity of the _Edinburgh_,
+but thought the _Quarterly_ more instructive and more carefully written.
+"Enfin (he concluded) j'aime infiniment votre gouvernement, et vos
+écrivains; mais j'aime moins le peuple Anglois." I replied that he had at
+least very recently shewn an exception to this opinion, in his treatment of
+_one_ among this _very_ people. "C'est une autre chose"--replied he
+briskly, and laughingly--"vous allez voir deux de vos compatriotes, qui
+sont mes intimes, et vous en serez bien content!" So saying, we continued
+our route through a delightful avenue of beech-trees, upon the most
+elevated part within the vicinity of the town; and my companion bade me
+view from thence the surrounding country. It was rich and beautiful in the
+extreme; and with perfect truth, I must say, resembled much more strongly
+the generality of our own scenery than what I had hitherto witnessed in
+Normandy. But the sun was beginning to cast his shadows broader and
+broader, and where was the residence of Monsieur and Madame S----?
+
+It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a quarter of an hour--but the
+inmates were unluckily from home. The house is low and long, but
+respectable in appearance both within and without. The approach to it is
+through a pretty copse, terminated by a garden; and the surrounding grounds
+are rather tastefully laid out. A portion of it indeed had been trained
+into something in the shape of a labyrinth; in the centre of which was a
+rocky seat, embedded as it were in moss--and from which some fine glimpses
+were caught of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the orchard
+trees, which had not yet quite shed their blossoms, was perfectly
+delicious; while the stillness of evening added to the peculiar harmony of
+the whole. We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before Madame arrived. She
+had been twelve years in France, and spoke her own language so imperfectly,
+or rather so unintelligibly, that I begged of her to resume the French. Her
+reception of us was most hospitable: but we declined cakes and wine, on
+account of the lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband was in
+possession of from fourscore to a hundred acres of the most productive
+land; and regretted that he was from home, on a visit to a neighbouring
+gentleman; assuring us, if we could stay, that he would be heartily glad to
+see us--"especially any of his _countrymen_, when introduced by Monsieur de
+Larenaudiere." It was difficult to say who smiled and bowed with the
+greater complacency, at this double-shotted compliment. I now pressed our
+retreat homewards. We bade this agreeable lady farewell, and returned down
+the heights, and through the devious paths by which we had ascended,
+
+  While talk of various kind deceived the road.
+
+A more active and profitable day has not yet been devoted to Norman
+objects, whether of art or of nature. Tomorrow I breakfast with my friend
+and guide, and immediately afterwards push on for FALAISE. A cabriolet is
+hired, but doubts are entertained respecting the practicability of the
+route. My next epistle will be therefore from Falaise--where the renowned
+William the Conqueror was born, whose body we left entombed at Caen. The
+day is clearing up; and I yet hope for a stroll upon the site of the
+castle.
+
+
+
+[160] "_Les Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Français, par Aug.
+    A_. Se vend à Vire, chez Adam imprimeur-lib. An. 1809. The reader may
+    not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these
+    distichs into French verse:
+
+      1.
+      Dum tener es, MURETE, avidis hæc auribus hauri:
+      Nec memori modò conde animo, sed et exprime factis.
+
+      2.
+      Imprimis venerare Deum; venerare parentes:
+      Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum.
+      &c.
+
+      1.
+      _Jeune encore, ô mon fils! pour être homme de bien,
+      Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien_.
+
+      2.
+      _Sers, honors le Dieu qui créa tous les êtres;
+      Sois fils respectueux, sois docile à tes maîtres.
+      &c_.
+
+[161] [Smartly and felicitously rendered by my translator Mons. Licquet;
+    "Jamais bouche Normande ne m'avait paru plus éloquente que celle de M.
+    Adam." vol. ii. p. 220.]
+
+[162] The present seems to be the proper place to give the reader some
+    account of this once famous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that
+    France rests her pretensions to poetical celebrity upon such claims.
+    Love, romantic adventures, gaiety of heart and of disposition, form
+    the chief materials of her minor poems; but we have here before us, in
+    the person and productions of OLIVIER BASSELIN, a rival to ANACREON of
+    old; to our own RICHARD BRAITHWAIT, VINCENT BOURNE, and THOMAS MOORE.
+    As this volume may not be of general notoriety, the reader may be
+    prepared to receive an account of its contents with the greater
+    readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and occupations
+    of Olivier Basselin; which, as Goujet has entirely passed over all
+    notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of the present
+    edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a _Virois_;
+    in other words, an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he had a
+    strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate
+    vicinity of Vire--its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky
+    recesses--to a more open and more distant residence. In such places,
+    therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his flagons of
+    wine. Thither he resorted with his "boon and merry companions," and
+    there he poured forth his ardent and unpremeditated strains. These
+    "strains" all savoured of the jovial propensities of their author; it
+    being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether connected with
+    friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions. He was the
+    thorough-bred Anacreon of France at the close of the fifteenth
+    century.
+
+    The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is
+    the chief town of that department of Normandy called the BOCAGE; and
+    in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated than
+    the _Vaux de Vire_; on account of the number of manufactories which
+    have existed there from time immemorial. It derives its name from two
+    principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it may be
+    so called--"jambage") rests upon the _Place du Chateau de Vire_. It is
+    sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among the
+    fauxbourgs. The rivers _Vire_ and _Viréne_, which unite at the bridge
+    of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are
+    flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the XVth
+    century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition.
+    Indeed, BASSELIN himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this
+    valley he passed his life in fulling his cloths, and "in composing
+    those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume under
+    consideration." _Discours Préliminaire_, p. 17, &c. Olivier Basselin
+    is the parent of the title _Vaudevire--_which has since been corrupted
+    into _Vaudeville_. From the observation of his critics, Basselin
+    appears to have been the FATHER of BACCHANALIAN POETRY in France. He
+    frequented public festivals, and was a welcome guest at the tables of
+    the rich; where the Vaudevire was in such request, that it is supposed
+    to have superseded the "Conte, or Fabliau, or the Chanson d'Amour."[B]
+    p. xviij:
+
+      Sur ce point-là, soyez tranquille:
+      Nos neveux, j'én suis bien certain,
+      Se souviendront de BASSELIN,
+      _Pere joyeux du Vaudeville:_ p. xxiij.
+
+    I proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this ancient
+    ANACREON of France; and must necessarily begin with a few of those
+    that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE II_.
+
+      AYANT le doz au feu et le ventre à la table,
+      Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin délectable,
+         Ainsi comme ung poulet
+      Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie,
+      Quant en debvroye avoir la face cramoisie
+         Et le nez violet;
+
+      QUANT mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou perse,
+      Porteray les couleurs que chérit ma maitresse.
+         Le vin rent le teint beau.
+      Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive,
+      Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et chétive
+         Ainsi qu'ung beuveur d'eau.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XI_.
+
+      CERTES _hoc vinum est bonus_:
+      Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille,
+      Se bien congru n'estoit ce jus,
+      Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille.
+      Escolier j'appris que bon vin
+      Aide bien au maulvais latin.
+
+      CESTE sentence praticquant,
+      De latin je n'en appris guère;
+      Y pensant estre assez sçavant,
+      Puisque bon vin aimoye à boire.
+      Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu,
+      Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru.
+      Fy du latin, parlons françois,
+      Je m'y recongnois davantaige.
+      Je vueil boire une bonne fois,
+      Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige;
+      Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent,
+      Je deviendroye fort éloquent.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XXII_.
+
+        HE! qu'avons-nous affaire
+        Du Turc ny du Sophy,
+           Don don.
+        Pourveu que j'aye à boire,
+        Des grandeurs je dis fy.
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium._
+
+        QUI songe en vin ou vigne,
+        Est ung présaige heureux,
+           Don don.
+        Le vin à qui réchigne
+        Rent le coeur tout joyeux,
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium_.
+         &c.
+
+    The poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the celebration of
+    the physical effects of wine upon the body and animal spirits; and the
+    gentler emotions of the TENDER PASSION are rarely described in his
+    numbers. In consequence, he has not invoked the Goddess of Beauty to
+    associate with the God of Wine: to
+
+      "Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl;"
+
+    or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is
+    done after the following fashion--which discovers however an extreme
+    facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems
+    wonderfully accordant with a Bacchanalian note.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XIX_.
+
+      En ung jardin d'ombraige tout couvert,
+      Au chaud du jour, ay treuvé Madalaine,
+      Qui près le pié d'ung sicomorre vert
+      Dormoit au bort d'une claire fontaine;
+      Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine.
+      Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien caché:
+         D'amour touché,
+      Pour contempler sa beauté souveraine
+      Incontinent je m'en suys approché.
+         Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille,
+         Voicy vin excellent
+         Qui faict lever l'oreille;
+         Il faict mol qui n'en prent.
+
+      Je n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant,
+      De m'abstenir de baizotter sa bouche;
+      Si bien qu'enfin la belle s'esveillant,
+      Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche,
+      Me dit ces mots: Biberon, ne me touche.
+      Belle fillette à son aize ne couche
+      Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu'yvrongner,
+         &c.  &c.
+
+    The preceding extracts will suffice. This is a volume in every respect
+    interesting--both to the literary antiquary and to the Book-Collector.
+    A NEW EDITION of this work has appeared under the editorial care of M.
+    Louis Dubois, published at Caen in 1821, 8vo. obtainable at a very
+    moderate price.
+
+      [B] The host, at these public and private festivals, usually called
+      upon some one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or
+      chivalrous character; and this custom prevailed more particularly in
+      Normandy than in other parts of France:
+
+        Usaige est en Normandie,
+        Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die
+        Fable ou Chanson à son oste.
+
+      See the authorities cited at page XV, of this Discours préliminaire.
+
+[163] Some account of this printer, together with a fac-simile of his
+    device, may be seen in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii.
+    p. 33-6.
+
+[164] The first publication is entitled "_Essai sur l'Histoire de
+    l'Industrie du Bocage en Général et de la Ville de Vire sa capitale en
+    particulier, &c._" Par M. RICHARD SEGUIN. _A Vire, chez Adam,
+    Imprimeur, an_ 1810, 12mo. It is not improbable that I may have
+    been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly-paged duodecimo
+    volume; which presents us with so varied and animated a picture of the
+    manners, customs, trades, and occupations of the Bocains and the
+    Virois.
+
+[165] I subjoin an extract which relates to the
+
+        DRESS AND CHARACTER OF THE WOMEN.
+
+        "Quant au COSTUME DES FEMMES d'aujourd'hui, comme il faudrait un
+        volume entier pour le décrire, je n'ai pas le courage de m'engager
+        dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolités. Ce que j'en dirai
+        seulement en général, c'est qu'autant les femmes du temps passé,
+        etaient décentes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire d'être graves
+        et modestes, autant celles de notre siècle mettent tout en oeuvre
+        pour paraître cyniques et voluptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au
+        temps où les plus grandes dames se faisaient honneur de porter la
+        cordélière.[C] Leurs habillemens étaient aussi larges et fermés,
+        que celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et légers, et d'une
+        finesse que les formes du corps, au moindre mouvement, se
+        dessinent, de manière à ne laisser rien ignorer. A peine se
+        couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent très-léger ou de je
+        ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-à-jour, qui, en
+        couvrant tout, ne cache rien; en sorte que si elles n'étalent pas
+        tous leurs charmes à découvert, c'est que les hommes les moins
+        scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en seraient
+        révoltés tout-à-fait. D'ailleurs, c'est que ce n'est pas encore la
+        mode; plusieurs poussent même l'impudence jusqu'à venir dans nos
+        temples sans coiffure, les cheveux hérissés comme des furies;
+        d'autres, par une bizarrerie qu'on ne peut expliquer se
+        dépouillent, autant qu'il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur
+        propre sexe, sembleut rougir d'être femmes, et deviennent
+        ridicules en voulant paraitre demi-hommes.
+
+        "Après avoir deshonoré l'habit des femmes, elles ont encore voulu
+        prostituer CELUI DES HOMMES. On les a vues adopter successivement
+        les chapeaux, les redingotes, les vestes, les gilets, les bottes
+        et jusqu'aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jupons, elles avaient
+        pu s'accommoder de l'usage de la culotte, la métamorphose était
+        complette; mais elles ont préféré les robes traînantes; c'est
+        dommage que la nature ne leur ait donné une troisième main, qui
+        leur serait nécessaire pour tenir cette longue queue, qui souvent
+        patrouille la boue ou balaye la poussière. Plût à Dieu que les
+        anciennes lois fussent encore en vigueur, ou ceux et celles qui
+        portaient des habits indécent étaient obligés d'aller à Rome pour
+        en obtenir l'absolution, qui ne pouvait leur être accordée que par
+        le souverain pontife, &c.
+
+        "Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroises, joignent à un
+        esprit vif et enjoué les qualités du corps les plus estimables.
+        Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre, elles sont de la
+        moyenne taille, mais bien formées: elles ont le teint frais et
+        fleuri, l'oeil vif, le visage vermeil, la démarche leste, un air
+        étoffé et très élégantes dans tout leur maintien. Si on dit avec
+        raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les filles du Bocage, qui
+        sont leurs voisines, ne leur cèdent en aucune manière, car en
+        général le sang est très-beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens
+        spirituels, elles les possèdent à un dégré éminent. Elles parlent
+        avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins du
+        ménage, ou elles excellent de telle sorte qu'il n'y a point de
+        contrées ou il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent à merveille,
+        et font avec succès tout le détail du commerce." p. 238.
+
+    These passages, notwithstanding the amende honorable of the concluding
+    paragraph, raised a storm of indignation against the unsuspecting
+    author! Nor can we be surprised at it.
+
+    This publication is really filled with a great variety of curious
+    historical detail--throughout which is interspersed much that relates
+    to "romaunt lore" and romantic adventures. The civil wars between
+    MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON form alone a very important and interesting
+    portion of the volume; and it is evident that the author has exerted
+    himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both
+    parties--except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against
+    the Hugonots.[D] I will quote the concluding passage of this work.
+    There may be at least half a score readers who may think it something
+    more than merely historically curious:
+
+        "Je finirai donc ici mon Histoire. Je n'ai point parlé d'un grand
+        nombre des faits d'armes et d'actions glorieuses, qui se sont
+        passés dans la guerre de l'indépendance des Etats-Unis d'Amérique
+        où beaucoup de Bocains ont eu part; mais mon principal dessein a
+        été de traiter des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi
+        je crois avoir atteint mon but, qui était d'écrire l'Histoire
+        Militaire des Bocains par des faits et non par des phrases, je ne
+        peux cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage;
+        c'est la visite que le bon et infortuné Louis XVI. fit aux Bocains
+        en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues étaient aussi sages que
+        profondes, avait résolu de faire construire le beau Port de
+        Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles
+        entreprises qui aient été faites depuis l'origine de la Monarchie.
+        Les Bocains sentirent l'avantage d'un si grand bienfait. Le Roi
+        venant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme
+        presqu'impossible à décrire, ainsi que les Princes qui
+        l'accompagnaient. Sa marche rassemblait à un triomphe. Les peuples
+        accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route,
+        faisant retentir les airs de chants d'alégresse et des cris
+        millions de fois répétés de Vive le Roi! Musique, Processions,
+        Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonchés de fleurs; tout fut prodigué.
+        Les villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de
+        Valognes, se surpassérent dans cette occasion, pour prouver à S.M.
+        leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant
+        que l'entrée de ce grand Roi à Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le
+        clergé, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du
+        canon, les acclamations universelles prouvérent au Monarque mieux
+        encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fêtes magnifiques que la
+        ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de
+        tous les Bocains étaient à lui." p. 428.
+
+      [C] "Ceinture alors regardée comme le symbole de la continence. La
+      reine de France en décorait les femmes titrées dont la conduite
+      était irréprochable." _Hist. de la réun. de Bretagne a la France
+      par l'abbé Irail_.
+
+      [D] "Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes
+      sortes de cruautés, d'infamies et de sacrilèges, jusqu'à mêler les
+      Saintes Hosties avec l'avoine qu'ils donnaient à leurs chevaux: mais
+      Dieu permit qu'ils n'en voulurent pas manger." p. 369.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM VIRE. CONDÉ. PONT OUILLY. ARRIVAL AT FALAISE. HOTEL OF THE
+GRAND TURC. THE CASTLE OF FALAISE. BIBLIOMANIACAL INTERVIEW.
+
+_Falaise_.
+
+
+Here I am--or rather, here I have been--my most excellent friend, for the
+last four days--and from hence you will receive probably the last despatch
+from NORMANDY--- from the "land (as I told you in my first epistle) of
+"castles, churches, and ancient chivalry." An old, well-situated,
+respectably-inhabited, and even flourishing, town--the birth-place too of
+our renowned FIRST WILLIAM:--weather, the most serene and inviting--and
+hospitality, thoroughly hearty, and after the English fashion:--these have
+all conspired to put me in tolerably good spirits. My health, too, thank
+God, has been of late a little improved. You wish me to continue the thread
+of my narrative unbroken; and I take it up therefore from the preparation
+for my departure from Vire.
+
+I breakfasted, as I told you I was about to do, with my friend and guide
+Mons. de Larenaudiere; who had prepared quite a sumptuous repast for our
+participation. Coffee, eggs, sweetmeats, cakes, and all the comfortable
+paraphernalia of an inviting breakfast-table, convinced us that we were in
+well-furnished and respectable quarters. Madame did the honours of the meal
+in perfectly good taste; and one of the loveliest children I ever saw--a
+lad, of about five or six years of age--with a profusion of hair of the
+most delicate quality and colour, gave a sort of joyous character to our
+last meal at Vire. The worthy host told me  to forget him, when I reached
+my own country;[166] and that, if ever business or pleasure brought me
+again into Normandy, to remember that the Maire de Tallevende-le-Petit
+would-be always happy to renew his assurances of hospitality. At the same
+time, he entreated me to pay attention to a list of English books which he
+put into my hands; and of which he stood considerably in need. We bade
+farewell in the true English fashion, by a hearty shake of the hands; and,
+mounting our voiture, gave the signal for departure. "Au plaisir de vous
+revoir!"--'till a turning of the carriage deprived us of the sight of each
+other. It is not easy--and I trust it is not natural--for me to forget the
+last forty-eight hours spent in the interesting town of VIRE!
+
+Our route to this place was equally grand and experimental; grand, as to
+the width of the road, and beauty of the surrounding country--but
+experimental, inasmuch as a part of the _route royale_ had been broken up,
+and rendered wholly impassable for carriages of any weight. Our own, of its
+kind, was sufficiently light; with a covering of close wicker-work, painted
+after the fashion of some of our bettermost tilted carts. One Norman horse,
+in full condition of flesh, with an equal portion of bone and muscle, was
+to convey us to this place, which cannot be less than twenty-two good long
+English miles from Vire. The carriage had no springs; and our seat was
+merely suspended by pieces of leather fastened at each end. At _Condé_,
+about one-third of the distance, we baited, to let both man and horse
+breathe over their dinners; while, strolling about that prettily situated
+little town, we mingled with the inhabitants, and contemplated the various
+faces (it being market-day) with no ordinary degree of gratification.
+Amidst the bustle and variety of the scene, our ears were greeted by the
+air of an itinerant ballad-singer: nor will you be displeased if I send you
+a copy of it:--since it is gratifying to find any thing like a return to
+the good old times of the sixteenth century.
+
+  VIVE LE ROI, VIVE L'AMOUR.
+
+  François Premier, nous dit l'histoire,
+  Etoit la fleur des Chevaliers,
+  Près d'Etampes aux champs de gloire
+  Il recueillit myrtes et lauriers;
+  Sa maîtresse toujours fidèle,
+  Le payant d'un tendre retour,
+  Lui chantant cette ritournelle;
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Henri, des princes le modèle,
+  Ton souvenir est dans nos coeurs,
+  Par la charmante Gabrielle
+  Ton front fut couronné de fleurs;
+  De la Ligue domptant la rage,
+  Tu sus triompher tour-à-tour,
+  Par la clémence et ton courage:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Amant chéri de la Vallière,
+  Des ennemis noble vainqueur,
+  LOUIS savoit combattre et plaire,
+  Guidé par l'Amour et l'honneur;
+  A son retour de la Victoire,
+  Entouré d'une aimable cour,
+  Il entendoit ce cri de gloire:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  &c.
+
+There was a freshness of tint, and a comeliness of appearance, among the
+bourgeoises and common people, which were not to be eclipsed even by the
+belles of Coutances. Our garçon de poste and his able-bodied quadruped
+having each properly recruited themselves, we set forward--by
+preference--to walk up the very long and somewhat steep hill which rises on
+the other side of Conde towards _Pont Ouilly_--in the route hither. Perhaps
+this was the most considerable ascent we had mounted on foot, since we had
+left Rouen. The view from the summit richly repaid the toil of using our
+legs. It was extensive, fruitful, and variegated; but neither rock nor
+mountain scenery; nor castles, nor country seats; nor cattle, nor the
+passing traveller--served to mark or to animate it. It was still, pure
+nature, upon a vast and rich scale: and as the day was fine, and my spirits
+good, I was resolved to view and to admire.
+
+_Pont Ouilly_ lies in a hollow; with a pretty winding river, which seems to
+run through its centre. The surrounding hills are gently undulating; and as
+we descended to the Inn, we observed, over the opposite side of the town,
+upon the summit of one of the hills, a long procession of men and
+women--headed by an ecclesiastic, elevating a cross--who were about to
+celebrate, at some little distance, one of their annual festivals. The
+effect--as the procession came in contact with a bright blue sky, softened
+by distance--was uncommonly picturesque ... but the day was getting on
+fast, and there was yet a considerable distance to perform,--while, in
+addition, we had to encounter the most impassable part of the road.
+Besides, I had not yet eaten a morsel since I had left Vire. Upon holding a
+consultation, therefore, it was resolved to make for the inn, and to dine
+there. A more sheltered, rural, spot cannot be conceived. It resembled very
+many of the snug scenes in South Wales. Indeed the whole country was of a
+character similar to many parts of Monmouthshire; although with a miserable
+draw-back in respect to the important feature of _wood_. Through the whole
+of Normandy, you miss those grand and overshadowing masses of oak, which
+give to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of Glocester, that rich
+and majestic appearance which so decidedly marks the character of those
+counties. However, we are now at the inn at Pont Ouilly. A dish of river
+fish, gudgeons, dace, and perch, was speedily put in requisition. Good
+wine, "than which France could boast no better!" and a roast fowl, which
+the daughter of the hostess "knew how to dress to admiration" ... was all
+that this humble abode could afford us." "But we were welcome:"--that is,
+upon condition that we paid our reckoning....
+
+The dinner would be ready in a "short half hour." Mr. Lewis, went to the
+bridge, to look around, for the purpose of exercising his pencil: while I
+sauntered more immediately about the house. Within five minutes a
+well-looking, and even handsome, young woman--of an extremely fair
+complexion--her hair cut close behind--her face almost smothered in a white
+cap which seemed of crape--and habited in a deep black--passed quickly by
+me, and ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humble
+mansion. She smiled graciously at the _aubergiste_ as she passed her, and
+quickly disappeared. On enquiry, I was told that she was a nun, who, since
+the suppression of the convent to which she had belonged, earned her
+livelihood by teaching some of the more respectable children in the
+village. She had just completed her twentieth year. I was now addressed by
+a tall, bluff, shabby-looking man--who soon led me to understand that he
+was master of the inn where my "suite" was putting up;--that I had been
+egregiously deceived about the nature of the road--for that it was totally
+impossible for _one_ horse:--even the very best in Normandy--(and where
+will you find better? added he, parenthetically--as I here give it to you)
+to perform the journey with such a voiture and such a weight of luggage
+behind." I was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence.
+The unpitying landlord saw my consternation. "Hark you, sir... (rejoined
+he) if you _must_ reach Falaise this evening, there is only one method of
+doing it. You must have _another horse_." "Willingly," I replied. "Yes,
+sir--but you can have it only upon _one_ condition." "What is that?" "I
+have some little business at Falaise myself. Allow me to strap about one
+hundred weight of loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myself
+will be your garçon de poste thither." I own I thought him about the most
+impudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy: but there was no time for
+resistance. Necessity compelled acquiescence. Accordingly, the dinner being
+dispatched--which, though good, was charged at six francs a-head--we
+prepared for our departure.
+
+But judge of my surprise and increased consternation, when the fellow
+ordered forth a little runt of a quadruped--in the shape of a horse--which
+was hardly higher than the lower part of the chest of the animal which
+brought us from Vire! I remonstrated. The landlord expostulated. I
+resisted--but the fellow said it was a bargain; and proceeded quietly to
+deposit at least _two_ hundred weight of his refined sugar at the back of
+the carriage. This Lilliputian horse was made the leader. The landlord
+mounted on the front seat, with our Vire post-boy by the side of him; and
+sounding his whip, with a most ear-piercing whoop and hollow, we sprung
+forward for Falaise--which we were told we should reach before sunset. You
+can hardly conceive the miseries of this cross-road journey. The route
+royale was, in fact, completely impassable; because they were repairing it.
+Alarmed at the ruggedness of the cross-road, where one wheel was in a rut
+of upwards of a foot deep, and the other elevated in proportion--we got
+out, and resolved to push on a-foot. We walked for nearly two leagues,
+before our conveyance overtook us--so harassing and so apparently
+insurmountable seemed to be the road. But the cunning aubergiste had now
+got rid of his leader. He said that it was only necessary to use it for the
+first two or three leagues--which was the most difficult part of the
+route--and that, for the remainder, about five English miles, our "fine
+Norman horse" was perfectly sufficient. This fine Norman horse was
+treated most unmercifully by him. He flogged, he hallooed, he swore ...
+the animal tript, stumbled, and fell upon his knees--more than
+once--from sheer fatigue. The charioteer hallooed and flogged again: and
+I thought we must have taken up our night quarters in the
+high-way;--when suddenly, to the left, I saw the fine warm glow of the
+sun, which had set about twenty minutes, lighting up one of the most
+perfect round towers, of an old castle, that I had yet seen in Normandy.
+Voilà FALAISE!--exclaimed the ruthless charioteer; ... and in a quarter
+of an hour we trotted hard down a hill (after the horse had been twice
+again upon his knees) which terminated in this most interesting place.
+
+It will be difficult for me to forget--after such a long, wearisome, and in
+part desperate journey--our approach to Falaise:--and more especially the
+appearance of the castle just mentioned. The stone seemed as fresh, and as
+perfectly cemented, as if it had been the work of the preceding year.
+Moreover, the contiguous parts were so fine and so thoroughly
+picturesque--and the superadded tradition of its being, according to some,
+the birth place--and according to others, the usual residence--of WILLIAM
+THE CONQUEROR ... altogether threw a charm about the first glimpse of this
+venerable pile, which cannot be easily described. I had received
+instructions to put up at the "_Grand Turc_"--as the only hotel worthy an
+Englishman's notice. At the door of the Grand Turk, therefore, we were
+safely deposited: after having got rid of our incumbrances of two
+postilions, and two hundred weight of refined sugar. Our reception was
+gracious in the extreme. The inn appeared "tout-à-fait à la mode
+Anglaise"--and no marvel ... for Madame the hostess was an Englishwoman.
+Her husband's name was _David_.
+
+Bespeaking a late cup of tea, I strolled through the principal
+streets,--delighted with the remarkably clear current of the water, which
+ran on each side from the numerous overcharged fountains. Day-light had
+wholly declined; when, sitting down to my souchong, I saw, with
+astonishment--a _pair of sugar-tongs_ and a _salt-spoon_--the first of the
+kind I had beheld since I left England! Madame David enjoyed my surprise;
+adding, in a very droll phraseology, that she had "not forgotten good
+English customs." Our beds and bed rooms were perfectly comfortable, and
+even elegant.
+
+The moat which encircles, not only the castle, but the town--and which must
+have been once formidable from its depth and breadth, when filled with
+water--is now most pleasingly metamorphosed. Pasture lands, kitchen
+gardens, and orchards, occupy it entirely. Here the cattle quietly stray,
+and luxuriously feed. But the metamorphosis of the _castle_ has been, in an
+equal degree, unfortunate. The cannon balls, during the wars of the
+League--and the fury of the populace, with the cupidity or caprice of
+some individuals, during the late revolution--helped to produce this
+change. After breakfast, I felt a strong desire to survey carefully the
+scite and structure of the castle. It was a lovely day; and in five
+minutes I obtained admission at a temporary outer gate. The first near
+view within the ramparts perfectly enchanted me. The situation is at
+once bold, commanding, and picturesque. But as the opposite, and
+immediately contiguous ground, is perhaps yet a little higher, it should
+follow that a force, placed upon such eminence--as indeed was that of
+Henry the Fourth, during the wars of the League--would in the end subdue
+the garrison, or demolish the castle. I walked here and there amidst
+briars and brushwood, diversified with lilacs and laburnums; and by the
+aid of the guide soon got within an old room--of which the outer walls
+only remained--and which is distinguished by being called the
+_birth-place_ of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR.
+
+Between ourselves, the castle appears to be at least a century later than
+the time of William the Conqueror; and certainly the fine round tower, of
+which such frequent mention has been made, is rather of the fourteenth, if
+not of the beginning of the fifteenth century;[167] but it is a noble piece
+of masonry. The stone is of a close grain and beautiful colour, and the
+component parts are put together with a hard cement, and with the smallest
+possible interstices. At the top of it, on the left side, facing the high
+road from Vire,--and constructed within the very walls themselves, is a
+_well_--which goes from the top apparently to the very bottom of the
+foundation, quite to the bed of the moat. It is about three feet in
+diameter, measuring with the eye; perhaps four: but it is doubtless a very
+curious piece of workmanship. We viewed with an inquisitive eye what
+remained of the _Donjon_: sighed, as we surveyed the ruins of the
+_chapel_--a very interesting little piece of ecclesiastical antiquity:
+and shuddered as we contemplated the enormous and ponderous
+portcullis--which had a _drop of_ full twenty feet ... to keep out the
+invading foe. I was in truth delighted with this first reconnoissance of
+FALAISE--beneath one of the brightest and bluest skies of Normandy!
+and--within walls, which were justly considered to be among the most
+perfect as well as the most ancient of those in Normandy.
+
+Leaving my companion to take a view of the upper part of this venerable
+building, I retreated towards the town--resolved to leave no church and no
+street unexplored. On descending, and quitting the gate by which I had
+entered, a fine, robust, and respectable figure, habited as an
+Ecclesiastic, met and accosted me. I was most prompt to return the
+salutation. "We are proud, Sir, of our castle, and I observe you have been
+visiting it. The English ought to take an interest in it, since it was the
+birth-place of William the Conqueror." I readily admitted it was well worth
+a minute examination: but as readily turned the conversation to the subject
+of LIBRARIES. The amiable stranger (for he was gaining upon me fast, by his
+unaffected manners and sensible remarks) answered, that "their _own_ public
+library existed no longer--having been made subservient to the
+inquisitorial visit of M. Moysant of Caen[168]: that he had himself
+procured for the Bishop of Bayeux the _Mentz Bible_ of 1462--and that the
+Chapter-Library of Bayeux, before the Revolution, could not have contained
+fewer than 40,000 volumes. "But you are doubtless acquainted, Sir, with the
+COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE, who resides in yonder large mansion?"--pointing to a
+house upon an elevated spot on the other side of the town. I replied that I
+had not that honour; and was indeed an utter stranger to every inhabitant
+of Falaise. I then stated, in as few and precise words as possible, the
+particular object of my visit to the Continent. "Cela suffit"--resumed the
+unknown--"nous irons faire visite à Monsieur le Comte après le diné; à ce
+moment il s'occupe avec le pôtage--car c'est un jour maigre. Il sera charmé
+de vous recevoir. Il aime infiniment les Anglois, et il a resté long-temps
+chez vous. C'est un brave homme--et même un grand antiquaire."
+
+My pulse and colour increased sensibly as the stranger uttered these latter
+words: and he concluded by telling me that he was himself the Curé of _Ste.
+Trinité_ one of the two principal churches of the town--and that his name
+was MOUTON. Be assured that I shall not lose sight of the Comte de la
+Fresnaye, and Monsieur Mouton.
+
+
+[166] [Only ONE letter has passed between us since my departure; and that
+    enables me to subjoin a fac-simile of its author's autograph.
+
+    [Autograph: de Larenaudiere]
+
+[167] [It was in fact built by the famous Lord Talbot, about the year 1420.
+    A similar castle, but less strong and lofty, may be seen at Castor,
+    near Yarmouth in Norfolk--once the seat of the famous Sir JOHN
+    FASTOLF, (a contemporary with Talbot) of whom Anstis treats so fully
+    in his _Order of the Garter_, vol.i. p.142.]
+
+[168] See p. 205 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+MONS. MOUTON. CHURCH OF STE. TRINITÉ. COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE. GUIBRAY CHURCH.
+SUPPOSED HEAD OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. M. LANGEVIN, HISTORIAN OF FALAISE.
+PRINTING OFFICES.
+
+
+I lose no time in the fulfilment of my promise. The church of SAINTE
+TRINITÉ, of which Monsieur Mouton is the Curé, is the second place of
+worship in rank in the town. During the Revolution, Mons. Mouton was
+compelled, with too many of his professional brethren, to fly from the
+general persecution of his order. One solitary and most amiable creature
+only remained; of the name of LANGEVIN--of whom, by and by, Monsieur Mouton
+did me the honour of shewing me the interior of his church. His stipend (as
+he told me) did not exceed 1500 francs per annum; and it is really
+surprising to observe to what apparent acts of generosity towards his
+flock, this income is made subservient. You shall hear. The altar consists
+of two angels of the size of life, kneeling very gracefully, in white
+glazed plaister: in the centre, somewhat raised above, is a figure of the
+Virgin, of the same materials; above which again, is a representation of
+the TRINITY--in a blaze of gilt. The massive circular columns surrounding
+the choir--probably of the fourteenth century--were just fresh painted, at
+the expense of the worthy Curé, in alternate colours of blue and
+yellow--imitative of marble;--that is to say, each column, alternately, was
+blue and yellow. It was impossible to behold any thing more glaring and
+more tasteless. I paid my little tribute of admiration at the simplicity
+and grace of the kneeling figure of the Virgin--but was stubbornly silent
+about every thing else. Monsieur Mouton replied that "he intended to grace
+the brows of the angels by putting a _garland_ round each." I felt a sort
+of twinge upon receiving this intelligence; but there is no persuading the
+French to reject, or to qualify, their excessive fondness for flower
+ornaments.
+
+Projecting from the wall, behind the circular part of the choir, I observed
+a figure of _St. Sebastian_--precisely of that character which we remark in
+the printed missals of the fifteenth century,--and from which the engravers
+of that period copied them: namely, with the head large, the body meagre,
+and the limbs loose and muscular. It was plentifully covered, as was the
+whole surface of the wall, with recent white wash. On observing this, my
+guide added: "oui, et je veux le faire couvrir d'une teinte encore plus
+blanche!" Here I felt a second twinge yet more powerful than the first. I
+noticed, towards the south-side door, a very fine crucifix, cut in wood,
+about three feet high; and apparently of the time of Goujon. It was by much
+the finest piece of sculpture, of its kind, which I had seen in Normandy;
+but it was rather in a decaying state. I wished to know whether such an
+object of art--apparently of no earthly importance, where it was
+situated--might be obtained for some honourable and adequate compensation.
+Monsieur Mouton replied that he desired to part with it--but that it must
+be replaced by another "full six feet high!" There was no meeting this
+proposition, and I ceased to say another word upon the subject.
+
+Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine and
+capacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot conscientiously
+approve of the beautifying and repairing which are going on therein, yet I
+will do the _planner_ the justice to say, that a more gentlemanly,
+liberally-minded, and truly amiable clergyman is perhaps no where to be
+found,--within or without the diocese to which he belongs. Attached to the
+north transept or side door, parallel with the street, is a long pole.
+"What might this mean?" "Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by a
+garland, and by the white flag of _St. Louis_,[169]--which were hoisted to
+receive me on my return from my long expatriation"--and the eyes of the
+narrator were suffused with tears, as he made the answer! It is of no
+consequence how small the income of an unmarried minister, may be, when he
+thus lives so entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK. This church bears
+abundant evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of
+the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.: although the most
+essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of the
+fourteenth century.[170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufacture
+of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed in
+the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to our
+vestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which might
+be lying upon the table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: of
+a spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length
+and width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of
+various colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes made
+of wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles an
+Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his own
+country. You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir,
+fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from the
+uses made of them in time of worship. In this sacristy there were two
+little boys swinging _wooden_ censers, by way of practice for the more
+perfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. To
+manage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit of
+observing during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or easy
+attainment.
+
+From the Curé we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantly
+situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by the
+former. Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards _Guibray_, and
+ascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge of
+this large and respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were at
+dinner: but at _three_ they would rise from table. "Meanwhile," said the
+porter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden." It was one of the
+loveliest days imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I had
+scarcely before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs and
+laburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white, purple, and
+yellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a bench, bethought me of
+the strange visit I was about to make--as well as of all the pleasing
+pastoral poetry and painting which I had read in the pages of De Lille, or
+viewed upon the canvas of Watteau. The clock of the church of _St. Gervais_
+struck three; when, starting from my reverie, I knocked at the hall-door,
+and was announced to the family, (who had just risen from dinner) above
+stairs. A circle of five gentlemen would have alarmed a very nervous
+visitor; but the Count, addressing me in a semi-British and semi-Gallic
+phraseology, immediately dissipated my fears. In five minutes he was made
+acquainted with the cause of this apparent intrusion.
+
+Nothing could exceed his amiable frankness. The very choicest wine was
+circulated at his table; of which I partook in a more decided manner on the
+following day--when he was so good as to invite me to dine. When I touched
+upon his favourite theme of Norman Antiquities, he almost shouted aloud the
+name of INGULPH,--that "cher ami de Guillaume le Conquérant!" I was
+unwilling to trespass long; but I soon found the advantage of making use of
+the name of "Monsieur Mouton--l'estimable Curé de la Sainte Trinité."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In a stroll to Guibray, towards sunset the next day, I passed through a
+considerable portion of the Count's property, about 300 acres, chiefly of
+pasture land. The evening was really enchanting; and through the branches
+of the coppice wood the sun seemed to be setting in a bed of molten gold.
+Our conversation was animated and incessant. In the old and curious church
+of Guibray, the Count shewed us his family pew with the care and
+particularity of an old country squire. Meanwhile Mr. Lewis was making a
+hasty copy of one of the very singular ornaments--representing _Christ
+bearing his cross_--which was suspended against the walls of the altar of a
+side chapel. You have it here. It is frightfully barbarous, and
+characteristic of the capricious style of art which frequently prevailed
+about the year 1520: but the wonder is, how such a wretched performance
+could obtain admission into the sanctuary where it was deposited. It was
+however the pious gift of the vestry woman--who shewed us the interior--and
+who had religiously rescued it, during the Revolution, from the demolition
+of a neighbouring abbey. The eastern end of this church is perhaps as old
+as any ecclesiastical edifice in Normandy;[171] and its exterior (to which
+we could only approach by wading through rank grass as high as our knees)
+is one of the most interesting of its kind. During our admiration of all
+that was curious in this venerable edifice, we were struck by our old
+friends, the _penitents_,--busy in making confession. In more than one
+confessional there were two penitents; and towards one of these, thus
+doubly attended, I saw a very large, athletic, hard-visaged priest
+hastening, just having slipt on his surplice in the vestry. Indeed I had
+been cursorily introduced to him by the Count. It was Saturday evening, and
+the ensuing Sunday was to be marked by some grand procession.
+
+The village-like town of Guibray presents a most singular sight to the eye
+of a stranger. There are numerous little narrow streets, with every window
+closed by wooden shutters, and every door fastened. It appears as if the
+plague had recently raged there, and that the inhabitants had quitted it
+for ever. Not a creature is visible: not a sound is heard: not a mouse
+seems to be stirring. And yet Guibray boasts of the LARGEST FAIR in France,
+save one![172] This, my friend, precisely accounts for the aspect of
+desolation just described. During the intervals of these _triennial_ fairs,
+the greater part of the village is uninhabited: venders and purchasers
+flocking and crowding by hundreds when they take place. In a short, narrow
+street--where nothing animated was to be seen--the Count assured me that
+sometimes, in the course of one morning, several millions of francs were
+spent in the purchase of different wares. We left this very strange place
+with our minds occupied by a variety of reflections: but at any rate highly
+pleased and gratified by the agreeable family which had performed the part
+of guides on the occasion. In the evening, a professor of music treated us
+with some pleasing tunes upon the guitar--which utterly astonished the
+Count--and it was quite night-fall when we returned homewards, towards our
+quarters at the hotel of the _Grand Turc_.
+
+A memorable incident occurred in our way homewards; which, when made known,
+will probably agitate the minds and shake the faith of two-thirds of the
+members of our Society of Antiquaries. You may remember that I told you,
+when at Caen, that the Abbe De la Rue had notified to me what were the
+objects more particularly deserving of attention in my further progress
+through Normandy. Among these, he particularly mentioned a figure or head
+of William the Conqueror at Falaise. In the _Place St. Gervais_, this
+wonderful head was said to exist--and to exist there only. It was at the
+house of an Innkeeper--certainly not moving in the highest circle of his
+calling. I lost little time in visiting it; and found it situated at the
+top of a dark narrow staircase, projecting from the wall, to the right,
+just before you reach the first floor. Some sensation had been excited by
+the enquiries, which I had previously set on foot; and on a second visit,
+several people were collected to receive us. Lights, warm water, towels,
+soap and brushes, were quickly put in requisition. I commenced operations
+with a kitchen knife, by carefully scraping away all the layers of hardened
+white and ochre washes, with which each generation had embedded and almost
+obliterated every feature. By degrees, the hair became manifest: then
+followed the operation of soap and water--which brought out the features of
+the face; and when the eyes fully and distinctly appeared, the exclamation
+of "_Mon Dieu_!" by the spectators, was loud and unremitting. The nose had
+received a serious injury by having its end broken off. Anon, stood forth
+the mouth; and when the "whiskered majesty" of the beard became evident, it
+was quite impossible to repress the simultaneous ejaculation of joy and
+astonishment ... "_Voilà le vrai portrait de Guillaume le Conquérant_!
+
+The whiskers apparently denote it to be rather _Saxon_ than _Norman_. The
+head is nearly eleven inches in length, by seven and a half in width: is
+cut upon a very coarse, yet hard-grained stone--and rests upon a square,
+unconnected stone:--embedded within the wall. If it ever had shoulders and
+body, those shoulders and body were no part of the present appendages of
+the head. What then, is the Abbé de la Rue in error? The more liberal
+inference will be, that the Abbé de la Rue had never seen it. As to its
+antiquity, I am prepared to admit it to be very considerable; and, if you
+please, even before the period of the loves of the father and mother of the
+character whom it is supposed to represent. In the morning, Madame Rolle
+seemed disposed to take ten louis (which I freely offered her) for her
+precious fragment: but the distinct, collected view of whiskers, mouth,
+nose, eyes, and hair, instantaneously raised the quicksilver of her
+expectations to "_quinze_ louis pour le moins!" That was infinitely "trop
+fort"--and we parted without coming to any terms. Perhaps you will laugh at
+me for the previous offer.
+
+The church of St. Gervais is called the mother church of the town: and it
+is right that you should have some notion of it. It stands upon a finely
+elevated situation. Its interior is rather capacious: but it has no very
+grand effect-arising from simplicity or breadth of architecture. The
+pillars to the right of the nave, on entering from the western extremity,
+are doubtless old; perhaps of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The
+arches are a flattened semicircle; while those on the opposite side are
+comparatively sharp, and of a considerably later period. The ornaments of
+the capitals of these older pillars are, some of them, sufficiently
+capricious and elaborate; while others are of a more exceptionable
+character on the score of indelicacy. But this does not surprise a man who
+has been accustomed to examine ART, of the middle centuries, whether in
+sculpture or in painting. The side aisles are comparatively modern. The
+pillars of the choir have scarcely any capitals beyond a simple rim or
+fillet; and are surmounted by sharp low arches, like what are to be seen at
+St. Lo and Coutances. The roof of the left side aisle is perfectly green
+from damp: the result, as at Coutances, of thereof having been stripped for
+the sake of the lead to make bullets, &c. during the Revolution. I saw this
+large church completely filled on Sunday, at morning service--about eleven:
+and, in the congregation, I observed several faces and figures, of both
+sexes, which indicated great intelligence and respectability. Indeed there
+was much of the air of a London congregation about the whole.
+
+From the Church, we may fairly make any thing but a digression--in
+discoursing of one of its brightest ornaments, in the person of Monsieur
+LANGEVIN:--a simple priest--as he styles himself in an octavo volume, which
+entitles him to the character of the best living HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. He
+is a mere officiating minister in the church of Mons. Mouton; and his
+salary, as he led me to infer, could be scarcely twenty louis per annum.
+Surely this man is among the most amiable and excellent of God's creatures!
+But it is right that you should know the origin and progress of our
+acquaintance. It was after dinner, on one of the most industriously spent
+of my days here--and the very second of my arrival,--that the waiter
+announced the arrival of the Abbé Langevin, in the passage, with a copy of
+his History beneath his arm. The door opened, and in walked the
+stranger--habited in his clerical garb--with a physiognomy so benign and
+expressive, and with manners so gentle and well-bred,--that I rose
+instinctively from my seat to give him the most cordial reception. He
+returned my civility in a way which shewed at once that he was a man of the
+most interesting simplicity of character. "He was aware (he said) that he
+had intruded; but as he understood "Monsieur was in pursuit of the
+antiquities of the place, he had presumed to offer for his acceptance a
+copy of a work upon that subject--of which he was the humble author." This
+work was a good sized thick crown octavo, filling five hundred closely and
+well-printed pages; and of which the price was _fifty sous_! The worthy
+priest, seeing my surprise on his mentioning the price, supposed that I had
+considered it as rather extravagant. But this error was rectified in an
+instant. I ordered _three copies_ of his historical labours, and told him
+my conscience would not allow me to pay him less than _three francs_ per
+copy. He seemed to be electrified: rose from his seat:--and lifting up one
+of the most expressive of countenances, with eyes apparently suffused with
+tears--raised both his hands, and exclaimed.... "Que le bon Dieu vous
+bénisse--les Anglois sont vraiement généreux!"
+
+For several seconds I sat riveted to my seat. Such an unfeigned and warm
+acknowledgment of what I had considered as a mere matter-of-course
+proposition, perfectly astounded me: the more so, as it was accompanied by
+a gesture and articulation which could not fail to move any bosom--not
+absolutely composed of marble. We each rallied, and resumed the
+conversation. In few but simple words he told me his history. He had
+contrived to weather out the Revolution, at Falaise. His former preferment
+had been wholly taken from him; and he was now a simple assistant in the
+church of Mons. Mouton. He had yielded without resistance; as even
+_remonstrance_ would have been probably followed up by the guillotine. To
+solace himself in his afflictions, he had recourse to his old favourite
+studies of _medicine_ and _music_;--and had in fact practised the former.
+"But come, Sir, (says he) come and do me the honour of a call--when it
+shall suit you." I settled it for the ensuing day. On breaking up and
+taking leave, the amiable stranger modestly spoke of his History. It had
+cost him three years' toil; and he seemed to mention, with an air of
+triumph, the frequent references in it to the _Gallia Christiana_, and to
+_Chartularies_ and _Family Records_ never before examined. On the next day
+I carried my projected visit into execution--towards seven in the evening.
+The lodgings of M. Langevin are on the second floor of a house belonging to
+a carpenter. The worthy priest received me on the landing-place, in the
+most cheerful and chatty manner. He has three small rooms on the same
+floor. In the first, his library is deposited. On my asking him to let me
+see what _old books_ he possessed, he turned gaily round, and
+replied--"Comment donc, Monsieur, vous aimez les vieux livres? A ça,
+voyons!" Whereupon he pulled away certain strips or pieces of wainscot, and
+shewed me his book-treasures within the recesses. On my recognising a
+_Colinæus_ and _Henry Stephen_, ere he had read the title of the volumes,
+he seemed to marvel exceedingly, and to gaze at me as a conjuror. He
+betrayed more than ordinary satisfaction on shewing his _Latin Galen_ and
+_Hippocrates_; and the former, to the best of my recollection, contained
+Latin notes in the margin, written by himself. These tomes were followed up
+by a few upon _alchymy_ and _astrology_; from which, and the consequent
+conversation, I was led to infer that the amiable possessor entertained due
+respect for those studies which had ravished our DEES and ASHMOLES of old.
+
+In the second room stood an upright piano forte--the _manufacture_, as well
+as the property, of Monsieur Langevin. It bore the date of 1806; and was
+considered as the first of the kind introduced into Normandy. It was
+impossible not to be struck with the various rational sources of amusement,
+by means of which this estimable character had contrived to beguile the
+hours of his misfortunes. There was a calm, collected, serenity of manner
+about him--a most unfeigned and unqualified resignation to the divine
+will--which marked him as an object at once of admiration and esteem.
+There was no boast--no cant--no formal sermonising. You _saw_ what
+religion had done for him. Her effects _spake_ in his discourse and in
+his life.... Over his piano hung a portrait of himself; very
+indifferently executed--and not strongly resembling the original. "We
+can do something more faithful than this, sir, if you will allow
+it"--said I, pointing to Mr. Lewis: and it was agreed that he should
+give the latter a sitting on the morrow. The next day M. Langevin came
+punctually to his appointment, for the purpose of having his portrait
+taken.
+
+On telling this original that the pencil drawing of Mr. Lewis (which by the
+bye was executed in about an hour and a half) should be
+_engraved_--inasmuch as he was the modern _Historian of Falaise_--he seemed
+absolutely astonished. He moved a few paces gently forwards, and turning
+round, with hands and eyes elevated, exclaimed, in a tremulous and
+heart-stricken tone of voice, "Ah, mon Dieu!" I will not dissemble that I
+took leave of him with tears, which were with difficulty concealed. "Adieu,
+pour toujours!"--were words which he uttered with all the sincerity, and
+with yet more pathos, than was even shewn by Pierre Aimé Lair at Caen. The
+landlord and landlady of this hotel are warm in their commendations of him:
+assuring me that his name is hardly ever pronounced without the mention of
+his virtues. He has just entered his sixty-second year.[173]
+
+It remains only to give an account of the progress of Printing and of
+Literature in this place: although the latter ought to precede the former.
+As a literary man, our worthy acquaintance the Comte de la Fresnaye takes
+the lead: yet he is rather an amateur than a professed critic. He has
+written upon the antiquities of the town; but his work is justly considered
+inferior to that of Monsieur Langevin. He quotes _Wace_ frequently, and
+with apparent satisfaction; and he promises a French version of his beloved
+_Ingulph_. Falaise is a quiet, dull place of resort, for those who form
+their notions of retirement as connected with the occasional bustle and
+animation of Caen and Rouen. But the situation is pleasing. The skies are
+serene: the temperature is mild, and the fruits of the earth are abundant
+and nutritious. Many of the more respectable inhabitants expressed their
+surprise to me that there were so few English resident in its
+neighbourhood--so much preferable, on many accounts to that of Caen. But
+our countrymen, you know, are sometimes a little capricious in the objects
+of their choice. Just now, it is the _fashion_ for the English to reside at
+Caen; yet when you consider that the major part of our countrymen reside
+there for the purpose of educating their children--and that Caen, from its
+numerous seminaries of education, contains masters of every description,
+whose lessons are sometimes as low as a frank for each--it is not
+surprising that Falaise is deserted for the former place. For myself--and
+for all those who love a select society, a sweet country, and rather a
+plentiful sprinkle of antiquarian art,--for such, in short, who would read
+the fabliaux of the old Norman bards in peace, comfort, and silence--there
+can be no question about the preference to be given to the spot from which
+I send this my last Norman despatch.
+
+I have before made mention of the fountains in this place. They are equally
+numerous and clear. The inn in which we reside has not fewer than three
+fountains--or rather of _jets d'eau_--constantly playing. Those in the
+_Place St. Trinité Grand Rue_, and _Place St. Gervais_, are the largest;
+but every gutter trickles with water as if dissolved from the purest
+crystal. It has been hot weather during the greater part of our stay; and
+the very sight of these translucent streams seems to refresh one's languid
+frame. But I proceed chiefly to the productions of the PRESS. They do a
+good deal of business here in the way of ephemeral publications. Letellier,
+situated in the Grande Rue, is the chief printer of _chap books_: and if we
+judge from the general character of these, the _Falaisois_ seem to be
+marvellously addicted to the effusions of the muse. Indeed, their ballads,
+of all kinds, are innumerable. Read a few--which are to be found in the
+very commonest publications. There is something rather original, and of a
+very pleasingly tender cast, in the first two:
+
+  LE BAISER D'ADIEUX.
+
+  Pres de toi l'heuré du mystère
+  Ne m'appellera plus demain,
+  Vers ta demeure solitaire
+  Mes pas me guideront en vain;
+  J'ai respiré ta douce haleine,
+  Et des pleurs ont mouillé mes yeux,
+  J'ai tout senti, plaisir et peine,  )
+  J'ai reçu ton baiser d'adieux.      ) _bis._
+
+    Tu pars, et malgré ta promesse
+  Rien ne m'assure de ta foi,
+  Nul souvenir de ta tendresse
+  Ne vient me dire: Pense à moi.
+  Ton amour qu'envain je réclame
+  Ne me laisse, en quittant ces lieux,
+  Que Phumide et brulante flamme
+  De ton dernier baiser d'adieux.
+
+    Puisse au moins ton indifférence
+  Te garder d'un nouvel amour.
+  Et le veuvage de l'absence
+  Hâter ton fortuné retour!
+  Puisse alors l'amant qui t'adore,
+  Te revoyant aux mêmes lieux,
+  Sur tes lèvres vierges encore
+  Retrouver son baiser d'adieux!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  L'IMAGE DE LA VIE.
+
+  Nous naissons et dans notre coeur,
+  A peine aux portes de la vie,
+  Tout au plaisir, tout au bonheur,
+  Et nous invite et nous convie;
+  D'abord, simples amusements
+  Savent contenter notre enfance;
+  Mais bientòt aux jeux innocens,
+  L'amour nous prend ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Fillette à l'âge de quinze ans,
+  Offre l'image de la rose,
+  Qui dès l'approche du printemps,
+  Entr'ouvre sa feuille mi-close;
+  Bientôt l'aiguillon du désir
+  Vient ouvrir fleur d'innocence,
+  Et sous la bouche du plaisir,
+  Elle s'éclôt ... sans qu'elle y pense.
+
+  Vous, qui pendant vos jeunes ans,
+  Ne courtisez pas la folie,
+  Songez donc que cet heureux temps
+  Ne dure pas toute la vie,
+  Assez vite il nous faut quitter
+  Tendres ardeurs, vives jouissances;
+  Et dans uu coeur qui sait aimer,
+  La raison vient ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Mais enfin, sur l'âile du temps,
+  On arrive au but du voyage,
+  Et l'on voit la glace des ans,
+  Couronner nos fronts à cet âge;
+  S'il fut sensible à la pitié,
+  S'il cultiva la bienfaisance,
+  Entre les bras de l'amitié
+  L'homme finit ... sans qu'il y pense
+
+You must know that they are here great lovers of royalty, and of course
+great supporters of the Bourbon Family. The King's printer is a Mons. BRÉE
+l'Ainé. He is a very pleasant, well-bred man, and lives in the _Place
+Trinité_. I have paid him more than one visit, and always felt additional
+pleasure at every repetition of it. My first visit was marked with a
+somewhat ludicrous circumstance. On entering the compositors' room, I
+observed, pasted upon the walls, in large capital letters, the following
+well known words:
+
+  GOD SAVE THE KING.
+
+Both Monsieur Brée l'Ainé--and his workmen were equally gratified by my
+notice and commendation of this sentiment. "It is the favourite sentiment,
+Sir, of your country,"--remarked the master. To this I readily assented.
+"It is also, Sir, the favourite one of our own," replied M. Brée
+l'Ainé--and his men readily attested their concurrence in the same reply.
+"Ah, Sir, if you would only favour us by _singing the air_, to which these
+words belong, you would infinitely oblige us all" ... said a shrewd and
+intelligent-looking compositor. "With all my heart"--rejoined I--"but I
+must frankly tell you, that I shall sing it rather with heart than with
+voice--being neither a vocal nor an instrumental performer." "No matter:
+give us only a notion of it." They all stood round in a circle, and I got
+through two stanzas as gravely and as efficiently as I was able. The usual
+"charmant!" followed my exertions. It was now my turn to ask a favour.
+"Sing to me your favourite national air of ROBERT and ARLETTE." "Most
+willingly, Sir," replied the forementioned "shrewd and intelligent-looking
+compositor." "Tenez: un petit moment: je vais chercher mon violon. Ca ira
+mieux."
+
+He left the house in search of his violin. The tune of the National air
+which he sung was both agreeable and lively: and upon the whole it was
+difficult to say which seemed to be the better pleased with the respective
+national airs. M. Brée shewed me his premises in detail. They had been
+formerly a portion of an old church; and are situated on the edge of the
+great fosse which encircles the town. A garden, full of sweet blooming
+flowers, is behind them; and the view backwards is cheerful and
+picturesque. There are generally five presses at work; which, for a
+provincial printing office, shews business to be far from slack. Mons. B.
+sells a great number of almanacks, and prints all the leading publications
+connected with the town. In fact, his title, as _Imprimeur du Roi_,
+supposes him to take the principal lead as a printer. This agreeable man
+has a brother who is professor of rhetoric in the Collège Royale at Paris.
+
+Of _Bouquinistes_, or dealers in old books, there are scarcely any. I spent
+three or four fruitless hours in a search after old chronicles and old
+poetry: and was compelled, almost from pure civility, to purchase of
+DUFOURS a _Petit's Virgil_ of 1529, folio--which will be hardly worth the
+carriage. I tried hard for a fine copy of _Fauchet's Origines de la Poésie
+Françoise_, 1581, 4to. with the head of the author, but in vain; yet
+endeavoured to console myself by an old blue morocco copy of _Les regrets
+et tristes lamentations du Comte de Montgomery_, by _Demorenne_, Rouen,
+1574, 8vo. as well as a clean, fresh, and almost crackling copy of
+_Amoureuses occupations de la Taysonniere_, Lyon, 1555, 8vo.--for two
+francs each--and both destined for the rich and choice library of our
+friend....
+
+Thus much for FALAISE: for a spot, which, from the uniform serenity of the
+weather since I have been here--from the comfort of the inn--from the
+extreme civility and attention of the townspeople--and from the yet more
+interesting society of the Comte de la Fresnaye, the _Curés_ Mouton and
+Langevin--together with the amenity of the surrounding country, and the
+interesting and in part magnificent remains of antiquity--can never be
+erased from my recollection. It is here that the tourist and antiquary may
+find objects for admiration and materials for recording. I have done both:
+admired and recorded--happy, if the result of such occupations shall have
+contributed to the substantial gratification of yourself and of our common
+friends. And now, farewell; not only to Falaise, but to NORMANDY. I shall
+leave it, from this delightful spot, in the most thorough good humour, and
+with more than ordinary regret that my stay has necessarily been short. I
+have taken my place in the Diligence, direct for PARIS. "Il n'y a qu'un
+Paris"--said the Comte de la Fresnaye to me the other day, when I told him
+I had never been there--to which I replied, "Are there then TWO Londons?"
+Thirty-six hours will settle all this. In the mean time, adieu.
+
+
+[169] On the return of Louis the XVIII. the town of Falaise manifested its
+    loyalty in the most unequivocal manner.
+
+      COUPLETS
+
+      _Chantés par les Elèves du Collége de Falaise, en arborant le
+      Drapeau Blanc_.
+
+      Air: _Un Soldat par un coup funeste_.
+
+        Loin de nous la sombre tristesse,
+        Mars a déposé sa fureur;
+        Enfin la foudre vengeresse
+        Vient de terrasser _l'opresseur,_
+            L'aigle sanguinaire
+        Succombe à l'aspect de ces LYS.
+      Peuple français, tu vas revoir ton Père!
+        Vive le Roi! Vive LOUIS!
+
+        Drapeau, que d'horribles tempêtes
+        Avoient éloigné de ces lieux,
+        Tu reviens embellir nos Fêtes,
+        Plus brillant et plus radieux!
+            Ta douce présence
+        Ramène les jeux et les ris;
+      Sois à jamais l'Etendard de la France,
+        Vive le Roi! vive LOUIS!
+
+        O Dieu! vengeur de l'innocence,
+        Protège ces LYS glorieux!
+        Conserve long-temps à la France
+        LE ROI que tu rends à nos voeux!
+            Si la perfidie
+        De nouveau troubloit ton bonheur
+      Viens nous guider, ô Bannière chérie!
+        Nous volerons au champ d'honneur.
+
+[170] The worthy historian of Falaise, quoted in a preceding page, is
+    exceedingly anxious to make us believe that there are portions of this
+    church--namely, four stones--in the eastern and western gable
+    ends--which were used in the consecration of it, by MATHILDA, the wife
+    of our first William. Also, that, at the gable end of the south
+    transept, outside, an ancient grotto,--in which the Gallic priests of
+    old purified themselves for the mysteries of their religion--is now
+    converted into the sacristy, or vestry, or robing room. But these are
+    surely mere antiquarian dreams. The same author more sagaciously
+    informs us that the exact period of the commencement of the building
+    of the nave, namely in 1438, is yet attested by an existing
+    inscription, in gothic letters, towards the chief door of entrance.
+    The inscription also testifies that in the same year, "there reigned
+    DEATH, WAR, and FAMINE." The _chancel of the choir_, with the
+    principal doors of entrance, &c. were constructed between the years
+    1520, and 1540. It may be worth remarking that the stalls of the choir
+    were brought from the Abbey of St. John--on the destruction of that
+    monastic establishment in 1729; and that, according to the _Gallia
+    Christiana_, vol. xi. p. 756, these stalls were carved at the desire
+    of Thomas II. de Mallebiche, abbot of that establishment in 1506-1516.
+    In a double niche of the south buttress are the statues of HERPIN and
+    his WIFE; rich citizens of Falaise, who, by their wealth, greatly
+    contributed to the building of the choir. (Their grandson, HERPIN
+    LACHENAYE, together with his mistress were killed, side by side, in
+    fighting at one of the gates of Falaise to repel the successful troops
+    of Henry IV.) The _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir, was
+    completed about the year 1631. LANGEVIN, p. 81-128-131.
+
+[171] We have of course nothing to do with the first erection of a place of
+    worship at Guibray in the VIIIth century. The story connected with the
+    earliest erection is this. The faubourg of Guibray, distant about 900
+    paces from Falaise, was formerly covered with chestnut and oak trees.
+    A sheep, scratching the earth, as if by natural instinct (I quote the
+    words of M. Langevin the historian of Falaise) indicated, by its
+    bleatings, that something was beneath. The shepherd approached, and
+    hollowing out the earth with his crook, discovered a statue of the
+    Virgin, with a child in its arms. The first church, dedicated to the
+    Virgin, under the reign of Charles Martel, called the Victorious, was
+    in consequence erected--on this very spot--in the centre of this
+    widely spreading wood of chestnut and oak. I hasten to the
+    construction of a second church, on the same site, under the auspices
+    of Mathilda, the wife of the Conqueror: with the statue of a woman
+    with a diadem upon her head--near one of the pillars: upon which
+    statue Langevin discourses learnedly in a note. But neither this
+    church nor the statue in question are now in existence. On the
+    contrary, the oldest portions of the church of Guibray, now
+    existing--according to the authors of the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. p. 878, and an ancient MS. consulted by M. Langevin--are of about
+    the date of 1222; when the church was consecrated by the Bishop of
+    Coutances. The open space towards the south, now called _La Place aux
+    Chevaux_, was the old burying ground of the church. There was also a
+    chapel, dedicated to St. Gervais, which was pillaged and destroyed by
+    the Hugonots in 1562. I should add, that the South-East exterior
+    (behind the chancel) of this very curious old church at Guibray,
+    resembles, upon a small scale, what M. Cotman has published of the
+    same portion of St. Georges de Bocherville. _Recherches sur Falaise_,
+    p. 49-53. Monsieur le Comte de la Fresnaye, in his _Notice Historique
+    sur Falaise_, 1816, 8vo. will have it, that "the porch of this church,
+    the only unmutilated portion remaining of its ancient structure,
+    demonstrates the epoch of the origin of Christianity among the Gauls."
+    "At least, such is the decision of M. Deveze, draftsman for Laborde;
+    the latter of whom now Secretary to the Count d'Artois, instituted a
+    close examination of the whole fabric." p. 5-6. I hope there are not
+    many such conclusions to be found in the magnificent and meritorious
+    productions of LABORDE.
+
+[172] This fair lasts full fifteen days. The first eight days are devoted
+    to business of a more important nature--which they call the GREAT
+    WEEK: that is to say, the greatest number of merchants attend during
+    the earlier part of it; and contracts of greater extent necessarily
+    take place. The remaining seven days are called the LITTLE WEEK--in
+    which they make arrangements to carry their previous bargains into
+    effect, and to return home. Men and merchandise, from all quarters,
+    and of all descriptions, are to be seen at this fair. Even Holland and
+    Germany are not wanting in sending their commercial representatives.
+    Jewellery and grocery seem to be the chief articles of commerce; but
+    there is a prodigious display of silk, linen, and cotton, &c.: as well
+    as of hides, raw and tanned; porcelaine and earthen ware. The live
+    cattle market must not be forgotten. Langevin says that, of horses
+    alone, they sometimes sell full four thousand. Thus much for the buyer
+    and seller. But this fair is regularly enlivened by an immense
+    confluence of nobility and gentry from the adjacent country--to
+    partake of the amusements, which, (as with the English,) form the
+    invariable appendages of the scene. Langevin mentions the minor fairs
+    of _Ste. Croix, St. Michel_, and _St. Gervais_, which help to bring
+    wealth into the pockets of the inhabitants. _Recherches Historiques
+    sur Falaise_; p. 199, &c.
+
+[173] [Since the publication of this Tour, the amiable Mons. Langevin has
+    published "additions" to his historical account of Falaise; and in
+    those additions, he has been pleased to notice the account which is
+    HERE given of his labours and character. It would be bad--at least
+    hardly justifiable--taste, to quote that notice: yet I cannot
+    dissemble the satisfaction to find that there is _more_ than ONE
+    sympathising heart in Normandy, which appreciates this record of its
+    excellence. I subjoin, therefore, with the greatest satisfaction, a
+    fac-simile of the autograph of this amiable and learned man, as it
+    appears written (at my request) in the title-page of a copy of his
+    "Researches."
+
+    [Illustration: Langevin ptre.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO PARIS.
+
+_Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissonière, May_ 30, 1819.
+
+"Time and the hour runs through the roughest day." They must be protacted
+miseries indeed which do not, at some period or other, have something like
+a termination. I am here, then my good friend--safe and sound at last;
+comfortably situated in a boarding house, of which the mistress is an
+agreeable Englishwoman and the master an intelligent Swiss. I have
+sauntered, gazed, and wondered--and exchanged a thousand gracious
+civilities! I have delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken hands
+with Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which the
+renowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the _Thuileries_
+and the _Louvre_; repeatedly reconnoitred the _Boulevards_; viewed the gilt
+dome of the _Hôtel des Invalides_, and the white flag upon the
+bronze-pillar in the _Place Vendome_; seen crowds of our countrymen at
+_Meurice's_ and in the hotels about the _Rue de la Paix;_ partaken of the
+rival ices of _Tortoni_ and the _Caffé des Mille Colonnes_; bought old
+French poetry at a Bouquiniste's: and drank Chambertin and Champagne at the
+richly garnished table of our ----. These are what may be called good
+_foreground objects_ in the composition of a Parisian picture. Now for the
+filling up of the canvas with appropriate and harmonizing detail.
+
+A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a proposal;
+for it cannot be, in this my _first_ despatch, that you are to receive any
+thing like an adequate notion of the topics thus hastily thrown together on
+the first impulse of Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: and
+at least admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letter
+left me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely from that
+place that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to leave it, as I
+told you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the Sunday, immediately
+following the date of the despatch transmitted. I shall have reason to
+remember that journey for many a day to come; but, "post varios casus, &c."
+I am thankful to find myself safely settled in my present comfortable
+abode. The Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually starts
+for Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard incessant
+juvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the Grand Turc; What
+might this mean? Between three and four, as the day began to break, I rose,
+and approaching the window, saw, from thence, a number of little boys and
+girls busied in making artificial flower-beds and sand-borders, &c. Their
+tongues and their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It was
+impossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a proceeding;
+but, opening the window, I thought there could be no harm in asking a very
+simple question--which I will confess to you was put in rather an irritable
+manner on my part ... for I had been annoyed by their labours for more than
+the last hour. "What are you about, there?" I exclaimed--"Ha, is it you
+Sir?" replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one else. "Yes,
+(resumed I) tell me what you are about there?" "in truth, we are making
+_Réposoirs_ for the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Is
+it not a pretty thing, Sir?" exclaimed a sweetly modulated female voice.
+All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was instantly convinced
+that Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment than when he said--"A soft
+answer turneth away wrath!" I admitted the prettiness of the thing without
+comprehending a particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key,
+shut the window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: and
+the little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break forth
+in a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence, I was almost
+feverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre announced that "it
+was eight o'clock, and the morning most beautiful."
+
+These _réposoirs_ are of more importance than you are aware of. They
+consist of little spots, or spaces in the streets, garnished with flowers,
+and intersected by walks, marked with fine gravel, in the centre of which
+the Host rests, on its passing to and fro from the several parishes. When I
+rose to dress, I observed the work of art--which had been in progress
+during the night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespass
+by pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or,
+whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to deposit a sous
+as the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon the whole, this
+réposoir might be about sixteen feet square. Towards eleven o'clock the
+different religious ceremonies began. On one side the noise of the drum,
+and the march of the national guard, indicated that military mass was about
+to be performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed and
+officiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses of both
+laity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and made every inmate
+of every mansion thrust his head out of window, to gaze at the passing
+spectacle. We were among the latter denomination of lookers on, and
+recognised, with no small gratification, our clerical friends Messieurs
+Mouton, Langevin, and the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by a
+great number of respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnaye
+and his amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made most
+respectable figures; They approached the réposoir in question. The priests,
+with the Host, took their station within it; silence followed; one
+officiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what seemed to be, the wooden
+covers of a book,--with, considerable violence--rose--turned round, and the
+procession being again put in motion--the whole marched away to the church
+of the Holy Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what I
+was unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed to
+imitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect its own
+particular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we cannot commend ...
+and insult and disrespect are among the last actions which a well regulated
+mind will shew in its treatment of such matters. I should add, that these
+réposoirs, a few hours after the performance of the ceremony just
+described, are indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sand
+banks falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the passenger.
+
+Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had been
+formerly an establishment of very considerable extent and celebrity; but
+whether it was originally connected with the hospital of the _Léproserie de
+Saint Lasare_, (about which the Abbé Langevin's History of Falaise is
+rather curious) the _Hôtel-Dieu_, or the _Hôpital Général_, I cannot take
+upon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this establishment does
+great credit to those who have the conduct of it. As foreigners, and
+particularly as Englishmen, we were permitted to see the whole, without
+reserve. On my return from witnessing the ceremony at the church of the
+Trinity, I visited this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphic
+operations before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figure
+of the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculine
+complexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven tint--she
+added a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put into action, moved
+in a most decided manner. A large bunch of massive keys was suspended from
+a girdle at her side; and her dress, which was black, was rendered more
+characteristic and striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called,
+_bustles_ above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the floor seemed
+equally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke would have painted
+this severe Duenna-like looking matron with inimitable force and truth.
+But ... she no sooner opened her mouth, than all traits of severity
+vanished. Her voice was even musical, and her "façon de parler" most
+gracious. She shewed me the whole establishment with equal good humour
+and alertness; and I don't know when I ever made such a number of bows
+(to the several female patients in the wards) within such limited time
+and space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there were
+several architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenth
+century, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions; as,
+upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to the
+gratuitous disposal of them.
+
+The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were summoned to
+the Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy host and hostess of
+the _Grand Turc_, (whom I strongly recommend all Englishmen to visit) I
+made up my mind for a thirty-six hour's journey--as I was to reach Paris on
+Tuesday morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of the
+year; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches of
+sleep--greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay and
+downfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took our
+departure. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we approached
+_L'Aigle_, the left braces (which proved to be thoroughly rotted leather)
+broke in two: and down slid, rather than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence!
+There were two French gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves in
+the coach. While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmen
+found consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffé, (it was
+between four and five in the morning), rousing the master and mistress, and
+as I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking for coffee: while they
+amused themselves with billiards during its preparation. I was in no humour
+for eating, drinking, or playing: for here was a second sleepless night!
+Having repaired this crazy vehicle, we rumbled on for _Verneuil_; where it
+was exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, about
+eleven o'clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it not be said
+that the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively to our
+country:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack upon
+substantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before witnessed. I was
+well contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and bread--as who might not well
+be?... but my companions, after taking these in flank, cut through the
+centre of a roast fowl and a dish of stewed veal: making diversions, in the
+mean while, upon sundry bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, during
+the meal, being as instrumental as the white metal forks.
+
+We set off at a good round trot for _Dreux_: and, in the route thither, we
+ascended a long and steep hill, having _Nonancourt_ to the left. Here we
+saw some very pretty country houses, and the whole landscape had an air of
+English comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the first
+time, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a most
+stiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any thing but the
+brown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against which the vine is
+trained. But the sloping banks, on each side of the ascending road, were
+covered with plantations of this precious tree; and I was told that, if the
+_autumn_ should prove as auspicious as appeared the _spring_, there would
+be a season of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart.
+Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the country
+about _Nonancourt_. The sun was fast descending as we entered the town of
+_Dreux_--where I had resolved upon taking leave both of the diligence and
+of my companions; and of reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, or
+rather perhaps made an early supper; when my fellow travellers _sustained_
+their reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl.
+Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the charge
+moderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the score of
+provision of reasonableness of cost, like the _table d'hôte_ throughout
+France; and he who cannot accommodate himself to the hour of dining
+(usually about one) must make up his mind to worse fare and treble charges.
+
+After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near the castle.
+We visited the principal church, _St. Jean_, which is very spacious, and
+upon the whole is a fine piece of architecture. I speak more particularly
+of the interior--where I witnessed, however, some of the most horrible
+devastations, arising from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one of
+the side chapels, there _had been_ a magnificent monument; perhaps from
+sixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as large as life,
+from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some trenchant instrument of
+an irresistible force, had shaved away many of the figures; but more
+especially the heads and the arms. This was only one, but the most
+striking, specimen of revolutionary Vandalism. There were plenty of similar
+proofs, on a reduced scale. In the midst of these traces of recent havoc,
+there was a pleasure mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewing
+some exceedingly pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escaped
+the destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all their
+original freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the priests were
+robing themselves to attend confession; while the suppliants, in kneeling
+attitudes, were expecting them by the side of the confessionals. From the
+church I bent my steps to the principal bookseller of the place, whom I
+found to be an intelligent, civil, and extremely good-natured tradesman.
+But his stock was too modern. "Donnez vous la peine de monter"--exclaimed
+he precipitately; begging me to follow him. His up-stairs collection was
+scarcely of a more ancient character than that below. There were more
+copies of _Voltaire_ and _Rousseau_ than I should have supposed he could
+sell in six years--but "on the contrary" (said he) "in six months' time,
+not a single copy will remain unsold!" I marvelled and grieved at such
+intelligence; because the poison was not extracted from the nourishment
+contained in these works. To an enquiry about my old typographical friends,
+_Verard, Pigouchet_, and _Eustace_, the worthy bibliopole replied "qu'il
+n'avoit jamais entendu parler de ces gens-la!" Again I marvelled; and
+having no temptation to purchase, civilly wished him good evening.
+
+Meanwhile Mr. L. had attained the castle heights, and was lost in a sort of
+extacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer walls, and directing
+your steps towards the summit, you are enchanted with a beautiful
+architectural specimen--in the character of a zigzag early Norman
+arch--which had originally belonged to a small church, recently taken down:
+The arch alone stands insulated ... beyond which, a new, and apparently a
+very handsome, church is erecting, chiefly under the care and at the
+expence of the present Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--and
+in which, not many days before our arrival, the remains of one of his
+children had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of this
+arch ... but there was no time ... and my companion was exercising his
+pencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird's eye of the sweep of country to
+be seen from this elevated situation--through the greater part of which,
+indeed, the diligence from _Verneuil_ had recently conducted us. I should
+add, that not a relic of that CASTLE, which had once kept the town and the
+adjacent country in awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose a
+space hardly less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which I
+had yet witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, the
+sun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk behind the
+edge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned throughout the
+landscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I cannot now say) as I
+sunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue and the lassitude of two
+sleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I could have seen the effect of that
+glorious sun-set from, the heights of Dover. Now and then, as when at
+school, one feels a little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which then
+possessed me was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. The
+shadows of evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, starting
+from my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to surprise me) I
+hastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction sought the town and
+our hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not until, from an opposite
+coach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like carriage to convey us with post
+horses, the next day, to Paris.
+
+Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the grand
+entrée into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little after
+nine--before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of which was
+surmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the phaeton in the
+rear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our baggage properly
+secured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted forward at a smart
+gallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly away with us--and the whip
+of the postilion made innumerable circular flourishes above their heads.
+The sky was beautifully clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantly
+penetrating, south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely to
+be sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and general
+uncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey! We felt it
+sensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place of halting, to
+change horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about four leagues from Dreux;
+and I verily believe we reached it in an hour. The route thither is through
+a flat and uninteresting country; except that every feature of landscape
+(and more especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to be
+thrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for the
+flatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is a
+village-like town, containing a population of about 2000 inhabitants; but
+much business is done on market days; and of _corn_, in particular, I was
+told that they often sold several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguity
+to Paris may account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts of
+the town,--and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows of
+trees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the "stiff and stower"
+remains of the _Castle of Houdan_. It is a very interesting relic, and to
+our eyes appeared of an unusual construction. The corner towers are small
+and circular; and the intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructed
+with a swell, or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but have
+forgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty feet
+square. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but without success,
+as the person possessing the key was not to be found. I saw enough,
+however, to convince me that the walls could not be less than twelve feet
+in thickness.
+
+The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh postilion seemed
+to be lost in amazement at the cause of our loitering so long at so
+insignificant a place. The day warmed as we pushed on for the far-famed
+"proud Versailles." The approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the most
+favourable; although we got peeps of the palace, which gave us rather
+elevated notions of its enormous extent. We drove to the _Hôtel de
+Bourbon_, an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very façade of the
+palace, after passing the Hôtel de Ville; and from whence you have an
+undisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I bespoke
+dinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I purposely declined
+visiting the interior--reserving Versailles for a future and entire day's
+gratification--is doubtless an immense fabric--of which the façade just
+mentioned is composed of brick, and assumes any thing but a grand and
+imposing air: merely because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design.
+I observed some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of this
+widely extended chaussée--or route royale--and, upon the whole, Versailles
+appeared to us to be a magnificent and rather interesting spot. Two or
+three rows of trees, some forty or fifty generations more ancient than
+those constituting the boulevards at Houdan, formed avenues on each side of
+this noble road; and all appeared life and animation--savouring of the
+proximity of the metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire,
+were going and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were of
+a more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a little
+impatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We hired one
+of these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey us to the place of
+our destination. This appeared to me very reasonable; and after being
+extravagant enough to drink Champagne at dinner, to commemorate our near
+approach to the metropolis, we set forward between five and six o'clock,
+resolving to strain our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at every
+thing we saw!--especially as _this_ is considered the most favourable
+approach to the capital.
+
+The _Ecole Militaire_, to the left, of which Marshal Ney had once the chief
+command, struck me as a noble establishment. But it was on approaching
+_Sèvre_ that all the bustle and population, attendant upon the immediate
+vicinity of a great metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--in
+many of which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--three
+upon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches, and
+carriages of every description, among which we discovered a great number
+from our own country--did not fail to occupy our unremitting attention.
+_Sèvre_ is a long, rambling, and chiefly single-street town; but
+picturesquely situated, on a slope, and ornamented to the left by the
+windings of the Seine. We were downright glad to renew our acquaintance
+with our old, and long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appeared
+to be sadly shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with it
+before the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The new
+nine-arch bridge at Sèvre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in miniature. Upon
+the heights, above it, I learnt that there was a beautiful view of the
+river in the foreground with Paris in the distance. We passed over the old
+bridge, and saw _St. Cloud_ to the left: which of course interested us as
+the late residence of Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyond
+the air of a large respectable country-gentleman's mansion in England. We
+pushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great city. Of all
+the desirable places of retreat, whether for its elevated situation, or
+respectable appearance, or commodious neighbourhood, nothing struck me more
+forcibly than the village of PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left;
+some three or four English miles from Paris--and having a noble view both
+of the river and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkably
+healthy; and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thither
+to and from Paris.
+
+The dome of the _Pantheon_, and the gilded one of the _Hôtel des
+Invalides_, together with the stunted towers of _Notre Dame_, were among
+the chief objects to the right: while the accompaniment of the Seine,
+afforded a pleasing foreground to this architectural picture in the
+distance. But, my friend, I will frankly own to you, that I was
+disappointed ... upon this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the first
+place, the surrounding country is flat; with the exception of _Mount
+Calvary,_ to the left, which has nothing to do with the metropolitan view
+from this situation. In the second place, what are the _Pantheon_ and
+_Notre Dame_ compared with _St. Paul's_ and _Westminster Abbey_?--to say
+nothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the beautifully
+undulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood, and. Shooter's
+Hill--and, on the other side of the water, Hampstead, Highgate and
+Harrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!... What lovely vicinities are
+these compared with that of _Mont Martre_? And if you take river scenery
+into the account, what is the _Seine_, in the neighbourhood of Paris,
+compared with the _Thames_ in that of London? If the almost impenetrable
+smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I beseech
+you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, which
+shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London,
+from the descent from _Shooter's Hill_! The most bewitched
+Frenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, will
+not have the temerity to institute such a comparison. But as you near
+the barriers, your admiration increases. Having got rid of all
+background of country--as you approach the capital--the foregoing
+objections vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search our
+luggage. They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmed
+all suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and
+one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the _Champs Elysées_. As
+we gained the _Place Louis Quinze_, with the _Thuileries_ in front, with
+the _Hôtel des Invalides_ (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the
+strong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck with
+this combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much superior
+to any similar display on the entrance into our own capital.[174]
+Turning to the left, the _Place Vendome_ and the _Rue de la Paix_, with
+the extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of their
+construction, completed our admiration. But the _Boulevards
+Italiens_--after passing the pillars of the proposed church of _Ste.
+Madelaine_, and turning to the right--helped to prolong our extreme
+gratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you.
+Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city.
+A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch.
+I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with the
+treasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books.
+THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it have
+charmed me by their extreme kindness and civility.[175]
+
+
+[174] [The above was written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a
+    foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent
+    Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland
+    Place?]
+
+[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease;
+    and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own
+    words. "Ici se termine la tache qui m'a été confiée. Après avoir
+    réfuté franchement tout ce qui m'a semblé digne de lêtre, je crois
+    devoir déclarer, en finissant, que mes observations n'ont jamais eu
+    _la personne_ pour objet. Je reste persuadé, d'ailleurs, que le coeur
+    de M.D. est tout-à-fait innocent des écarts de son esprit. Si l'on
+    peut le condamner pour le fait, il faudra toujours l'absoudre pour
+    l'intention...." The _concluding_-sentence need not be copied: it is
+    bad taste to re-echo the notices of one's own good qualities.
+
+    My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace of a
+    gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct and
+    severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always had the
+    button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how these
+    thrusts have been parried; and if the "hits" on the part of my
+    adversary, have been sometimes "palpable," those of the original
+    author will not (it is presumed) be deemed feeble or unimpressive.
+    After all, the sum total of "Errata" scarcely includes THREE of
+    _substantial moment_: and wishing Mons Licquet "a very good day," I
+    desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the
+    floor of that Library of which he is the "Bibliothècaire en Chef."
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+London: Printed by W. Nicol,
+Cleveland-row, St. James's.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I.
+
+OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN.
+
+
+The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the foregoing pages,
+and its history, as connected with our own country in the earlier part of
+the fifteenth century, is too interesting, to require any thing in the
+shape of apology for the matter which the Reader is about to peruse. This
+"matter" is necessarily incidental to the _present_ edition of the "Tour;"
+as it is only recently made public. An "_Old English Poem_" on our Henry
+the Fifth's "_Siege of Rouen_" is a theme likely to excite the attention of
+the literary Antiquary on _either_ side of the Channel.
+
+The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J.J. Conybeare, successively
+Professor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry in the University of
+Oxford, discovered, in the exhaustless treasures of the Bodleian Library, a
+portion of the Old English Poem in question: but it was a portion only. In
+the 21st. vol. of the Archæologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of this
+fortunate discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. Frederick
+Madden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. department in the British
+Museum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of the portion
+which was lost: and in the 22d. vol. of the _Archæologia_, just published,
+(pp. 350-398), he has annexed an abstract of the remaining fragment, with
+copious and learned notes. This fragment had found its way, in a prose
+attire, into the well-known English MS. Chronicle, called the
+BRUTE:--usually (but most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not however
+to be found in _all_ the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr.
+Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. has found the
+poem only in four of them: namely, in two among the Harleian MSS. (Nos.
+753; 2256--from which _his_ transcript and collation have been made) in one
+belonging to Mr. Coke of Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the _Cotton_
+Collection:--Galba E. viii. This latter MS. has a very close correspondence
+with the _second_ Harl. MS. but is often faulty from errors of the Scribe,
+See _Gentleman's Magazine, May_, 1829.
+
+So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old English
+Poem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production of the time of
+the Siege--namely, A.D. 1418. A word as to its intrinsic worth--from the
+testimony of the Critic most competent to appreciate it. "It will be
+admitted, I believe, (says Mr. Madden) by all who will take the trouble
+to compare the various contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen,
+that in point of simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, there
+is NO existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Its
+authenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the Author's
+having been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review the names of those
+Historians who lived at the same period, we shall have abundant reason
+to rejoice at so valuable an accession to our present stock of
+information on the subject." _Archæologia_, vol. xxii. p. 353. The
+reader shall be no longer detained from a specimen or two of the poem
+itself, which should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic.
+
+"On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent by the City of
+Rouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to inform us, that the King
+caused two tents to be pitched, one for the English Commissioners, and the
+other for the French. On the English side were appointed the Earl of
+Warwick, the Earl of Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir Walter
+Hungerford, and on the French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen to
+meet them. Then says the writer,
+
+  'It was a sight of solempnity,
+  For to behold both party;
+  To see the rich in their array,
+  And on the walls the people that lay,
+  And on our people that were without,
+  How thick that they walked about;
+  And the heraudis seemly to seene,
+  How that they went ay between;
+  The king's heraudis and pursuivants,
+  In coats of arms _amyantis_.
+  The English a beast, the French a flower,
+  Of Portyngale both castle and tower,
+  And other coats of diversity,
+  As lords bearen in their degree.'
+
+"As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and splendour is described
+the deplorable condition of those unfortunate inhabitants who lay starving
+in the ditches without the walls of the City, deprived both of food and
+clothing. The affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was an
+eye-witness, is written with that display of feeling such a scene must
+naturally have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourable
+passages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of Elmham or
+Livius. In the first instance we behold misery literally in rags, and
+hiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the other she is
+ostentatiously paraded before our eyes:
+
+  'There men might see a great pity,
+  A child of two year or three
+  Go about, and bid his bread,
+  For Father and mother both lay dead,
+  And under them the water stood,
+  And yet they lay crying after food.
+  Some _storven_ to the death,
+  And some stopped both eyen and breath,
+  And some crooked in the knees,
+  And as lean as any trees,
+  And women holding in their arm
+  A dead child, and nothing warm,
+  And children sucking on the pap
+  Within a dead woman's lap.'
+
+On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. made his public entry into
+Rouen. His personal appearance is thus described:
+
+  'He rode upon a brown steed,
+  Of black damask was his weed,
+  A _Peytrelle_ of gold full bright
+  About his neck hung down right,
+  And a pendant behind him did honge
+  Unto the earth, it was so long.
+  And they that never before him did see,
+  They knew by the cheer which was he.'
+
+"With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry was ever
+distinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where he alighted from
+his charger, and was met by the chaplains of his household, who walked
+before him, chanting _Quis est magnus Dominus?_ After the celebration of
+mass, the king repaired to the Castle, where he took up his abode. By this
+termination of a siege, which, for its duration and the horrors it
+produced, is perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, the
+city was again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered the
+shock so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:
+
+  'And thus our gracious liege
+  Made an end of his siege;
+  And all that have heard this reading,
+  To his bliss Christ you bring,
+  That for us died upon a tree,
+  Amen say we all, _pur charite!_'
+
+The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and ordered by Henry
+to take possession of it the same night. The Duke mounts his horse, and
+rides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or Beauvais, attended by a retinue, to
+carry the commands of his sovereign into execution. His Entré, and the
+truly miserable condition of the besieged, together with the imposing
+appearance of Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet.
+
+  Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode
+  Toke his hors and forth he rode,
+  To bevesyne[E] that porte so stronge,
+  That he hadde ley bifore so longe,
+  To that gate sone he kam,[F]
+  And with hym many a worthy[G] manne.
+  There was neying of many a stede,
+  And schynyng of many a gay wede,
+  There was many a getoun[H] gay,
+  With mychille[I] and grete aray.
+  And whanne the gate was openyd there,
+  And thay weren[J] redy into fare,
+  Trumpis[K] blewgh her bemys[L] of bras,
+  Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was,
+  And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte
+  With her[M] voyce that was fulle stowte,
+  'Seint George! seint George!' thay criden[N] on height,
+  And seide, 'welcome oure kynges righte.'
+  The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite
+  Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see.
+  Thay criden[N] alle welcome in fere,
+  'In siche tyme mote ye entre here,
+  Plesyng to God that it may be,
+  And to vs pees and vnyte.'
+  And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe,
+  It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe.
+  Mykelle of that folke therynne
+  Thay weren[O] but verrey bonys and skynne.
+  With eyen holowgh and[P] nose scharpe,
+  Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe,
+  For her colowris was[Q] wan as lede,
+  Not like to lyue but sone ben dede.
+  Disfigurid pateronys[R] and quaynte,
+  And as[S] a dede kyng thay weren paynte.
+  There men myght see an[T] exampleyre,
+  How fode makith the pepulle faire.[U]
+  In euery strete summe lay dede,
+  And hundriddis krying aftir brede.
+  And aftir long many a day,
+  Thay deyde as[V] faste as[W] they myght be lad away.
+  Into[X] that way God hem wisse,
+  That thay may come to his blisse! amen.
+  Now[Y] wille y more spelle,
+  And of the duke of exestre to[Z] telle.
+  To that Castelle firste he rode,
+  And sythen[AA] the Cite alle abrode;
+  Lengthe and brede he it mette,
+  And rich baneris he[AB] vp sette.
+  Vpon the porte seint Hillare
+  A Baner of the Trynyte.
+  And at[AC] the port Kaux he sette evene
+  A baner of the quene of heven.
+  And at[AD] port martvile he vppyght   Of seint George a baner bryght.
+  He sette vpon the Castelle to[AE] stonde
+  The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond.
+  And on the Friday in the mornynge
+  Into that Cite come oure kynge.
+  And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray,
+  And vij. abbottis with Crucchis[AF] gay;
+  xlij.[AG] crossis ther were of Religioune[AH],
+  And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun,
+  Agens that prince withoute the toune,
+  And euery Cros as thay stode
+  He blessid hem with milde mode,
+  And holy water with her hande
+  Thay gaf the prince of oure lande.
+  And at[AI] the porte Kaux so wide
+  He in passid withoute[AJ] pride;
+  Withoute pipe or bemys blaste,
+  Our kyng worthyly he in paste.
+  And as a conquerour in his righte
+  Thankyng[AK] euer god almyghte;
+  And alle the pepulle in that Citie
+  'Wilcome our[AL] lorde,' thay seide, 'so fre!
+  Wilcome into[AM] thyne owne righte,
+  As it is the[AN] wille of[AO] god almyght.'
+  With that thay kryde alle _'nowelle!_'
+  Os[AP] heighe as thay myght yelle.
+  He rode vpon a browne stede,
+  Of blak damaske was his wede.
+  A peytrelle[AQ] of golde fulle bryght
+  Aboute his necke hynge[AR] doun right,
+  And a pendaunte behynd him dide[AS] honge
+  Vnto the erthe, it was so longe,
+  And thay that neuer before hym dide[AT] see,
+  Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he.
+  To the mynster dide he fare,
+  And of his horse he lighte there.
+  His chapelle[AU] mette hym at[AV] the dore there,
+  And wente bifore[AW] hym alle in fere,
+  And songe a response[AX] fulle glorivs,
+  _Quis est magnus dominus_.
+  Messe he hirde and offrid thoo,
+  And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo.
+  That is a place of rialte,
+  And a paleis of grete beaute.
+  There he hym[AY] loggid in the Toune,
+  With rialle and grete renoune.
+  And the[AZ] cite dide faste encrece
+  Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe.[BA]
+  And thus oure gracious liege
+  Made an ende of his seege.
+  And alle that[BB] haue hirde this redynge[BC]
+  To his[BD] blisse criste you brynge,
+  That for vs deide vpon[BE] a tre,
+  Amen sey[BF] we alle, pur cherite!
+
+_There was many a getoun gay_.] The following particulars relative to the
+_getoun_ appear in MS. Harl. 838. "Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shal
+have hys baner displeyd in y'e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyght
+his penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys _getoun_ or standard." "Item, y'e
+meyst lawfully fle fro y'e standard and _getoun_, but not fro y'e baner ne
+penon.". "Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp or in y'e
+fore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a standard as welle as a
+_getoun_: a _getoun_ shal berr y'e length of ij yardes, a standard of iii
+or 4 yardes, and a stremer of xii. xx. xl. or lx. yardes longe."
+
+This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. f. 431. as
+quoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. vol. i. N.S. The former of
+these MSS. states: Euery standard and _Guydhome_ [whence the etymology of
+the word is obvious] to have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to be
+slitte at the ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with the
+posey, worde, and devise of the owner." It adds, that "a guydhome must be
+two yardes and a halfe, or three yardes longe." This rule may sometimes
+have been neglected, at least by artists, for in a bill of expences for the
+Earl of Warwick, dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. p. 327.)
+we find the following entry; "Item, a _gyton_ for the shippe of viij.
+yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng and
+workmanship, ijs." The Grant of a _guydon_ made in 1491 to Hugh Vaughan, is
+preserved in the College of Arms. It contains his crest placed
+longitudinally. _Retrospective Review, New Series_, vol. i. p. 511.
+
+
+[E] _bewesyns_.
+
+[F] _came_.
+
+[G] _worthy_ deest.
+
+[H] A species of banner or streamer. See Note.
+
+[I] _noble_.
+
+[J] _were_.
+
+[K] Trumpeters.
+
+[L] Trumpets.
+
+[M] _that_.
+
+[N] cryed.
+
+[O] _were_.
+
+[P] _with nose_.
+
+[Q] _were_.
+
+[R] _patrons_.--Workmens' models or figures. _Patrone_, forme to
+    werke by. _Prompt. Parvul_. MS. Harl. 221. There is probably here
+    an allusion to the waxen or wooden effigies placed on the hearse of
+    distinguished personages.
+
+[S] _as dede thyng they were peynte_.
+
+[T] _in_.
+
+[U] _to fare_.
+
+[V] as _deest_.
+
+[W] _as cartes led awey_.
+
+[X] _Vnto_.
+
+[Y] In MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter
+    introduced.
+
+[Z] _to_ deest.
+
+[AA] _sithe_.
+
+[AB] _vp he_.
+
+[AC] _atte porte kauxoz_.
+
+[AD] _atte_ porte.
+
+[AE] _that stounde_.
+
+[AF] Crosses.
+
+[AG] xliiij.
+
+[AH] _religiouns_.
+
+[AI] _atte porte hauxoz_.
+
+[AJ] The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are omitted.
+
+[AK] _Thanked_.
+
+[AL] _they seyde our lord so free_.
+
+[AM] _vnto_.
+
+[AN] _the_ deest.
+
+[AO] _to_.
+
+[AP] _As_.
+
+[AQ] Poitrell, breast plate.
+
+[AR] _hangyng_.
+
+[AS] _dide_ deest.
+
+[AT] _the_ chere.
+
+[AU] The chaplains of his household. Lat. _capella_.
+
+[AV] _atte_ dore, _there_ deest.
+
+[AW] _afore_.
+
+[AX] _respon._
+
+[AY] _logged hym._
+
+[AZ] _his cite fast encrest_.
+
+[BA] _beste_.
+
+[BB] _that_ deest.
+
+[BC] _tydyng_.
+
+[BD] _his_ deest.
+
+[BE] on.
+
+[BF] _seyde all for charitee_.
+
+
+
+
+BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p. 127-8.
+
+
+This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the possession
+of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin's Lane. When the note relating to it
+was written, I could, not place my hand upon a Brochure (in my possession)
+published at Rouen in 1823,[176] containing an archaeological description
+of this Statue by M. Revet, and a scientific account of its component
+parts, by M. Houton La Billardière, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. The
+former embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of the
+Lower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated state,
+is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great drawback to the
+publication--which, in its details, appears to be ingenious, learned, and
+satisfactory. The highest praise is given to the Statue, as a work of art
+of the second century.[177] Its _identity_ seems to be yet a subject of
+disputation:--but M. Revet considers it as "the representation of some
+idolatrous divinity." The opinion of its being a representation of Bacchus,
+or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be regulated by a
+discovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the vicinity of the
+Statue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating to explanations of the
+pieces of the Statue, close this interesting performance.
+
+
+[176] "_Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Doré, trouvée a
+    Lillebonne &c. Suivie de l'Analyse du Métal, avec le dessein de la
+    Statue, et les Tracés de quelques particularités relatives à la
+    Confection de cette Antique." Rouen,_ 1823. pp. 56.
+
+[177] Other details induce me to fix the period of its completion towards
+    the end of the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties
+    which the artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if
+    one said that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection."
+    p. 34.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.
+
+INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,
+DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO.
+
+                                                                  Vol Page
+_Æneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus_, no date, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  315
+
+_Æsopus, Gr_. 4to. Edit. prin.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  308
+
+---- _Lat_. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  141
+
+---- _Ital_. 1485, _Tuppi_, in the same library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  142
+
+---- _Ital_. 1491 and 1492, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  308
+
+---- _Hispan_. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  142
+
+---- _Germ. Without Date, &c_., in the same library                ii  142
+
+---- ---- in the same library,                                     ii  142
+
+_Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard_, 1492,
+folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  134
+
+_Albert Durer_; original drawings of, in a Book of
+Prayers, in the Public Library at Munich,                         iii  132
+
+_Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha_, 1500,
+folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                        iii  101
+
+_Aldine Classics_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  145
+
+---- ----, in the Library of St. Geneviève,                        ii  177
+
+---- ----, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,            iii   41
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  146
+
+_Alexandrus Gallus_, vulgo _de Villa Dei Doctrinale V
+de Spira_, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,              iii  315
+
+_Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux_--a chap book,
+extracts from,                                                    iii   73
+
+_Anti-Christ--block book_--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+_Ambrosii Hexameron_, 1472, folio--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   99
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  430
+
+_Amours, chasse et départ, Verard_, 1509, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  132
+
+_Anthologia Græca_, 1498, 4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  145
+
+_Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica_, 1477, _Koberger_,
+folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                        ii  407
+
+_Apocalypse, block book_, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Apostles Creed_, in German, _block book_, with
+fac simile--in the Public Library at Munich,                      iii  137
+
+_Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt_, 1478, folio--in the library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  236
+
+_Apuleius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg,     iii  397
+
+---- ----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich,            iii  142
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  308
+
+---- ----, 1472, _Jenson_, folio--in the last mentioned
+library,                                                          iii  308
+
+_Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundæ, Schoeffher_, 1467,
+folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  316
+
+----, _Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher_. 1469, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the same Library,                                      iii  316
+
+----, _In Evang. Matt, et Marc_. 1470, _S. and
+Pannartz_, folio--in the same library,                            iii  316
+
+---- _de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin_--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  141
+
+_Arbre des Batailles, Verard_, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  132
+
+_Aretinus de Bella Gothico_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  208
+
+_Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus_, 1495, 6 vols. Two copies
+UPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  136
+
+---- _Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--_ remarkably
+splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  138
+
+_Ars Memorandi_, &c.--_block book_: five copies of,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  135
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+---- -----in the Library of Göttwic Monastery,                    iii  428
+
+_Ars Moriendi, Germanicé--4to_.-- in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   26
+
+---- _Lat. block book_--two editions, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  136
+
+_Art de bien Mourir, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+_Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton_, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  124
+
+ARTUS LE ROY; MS. xiith century,--in the Royal Library at Paris,   ii   94
+
+Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library,              ii   94
+
+_Artaxani Summa_, (1469) folio--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  232
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  113
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,               ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  301
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- ---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, 1470, folio, in the
+Public Library at Vire,                                             i  297
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery,      iii  221
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- _Schoeffher_, 1473; folio--in the Library of the
+Monastery of Chremsminster,                                       iii  221
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- _Confessionum Libri XIII_. 1475. 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- ---- _de singularitate Clericorum_, 1467, 4to. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   40
+
+AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. xvth century--formerly in the
+library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   36
+
+---- ---- _Yppon. de Cons. Evang_. 1473, folio--in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  101
+
+_Aulus Gellius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  308
+
+Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468,
+Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _Pub. Lib. Augsbourg_,                 iii  100
+
+_Ausonius_, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  309
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Aymon, les quatre filz_, 1583, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                          ii  163
+
+
+B.
+
+BALLADS;
+  _Bon Jour, Bon Soir_:                                             i  132
+  --_Toujours_,                                                        389
+  various, from the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_,                  292
+                                                                      -293
+                                                                      -294
+  _Vive Le Roi, Vive L'Amour_,                                      i  310
+  _en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise_,                       i  324
+  _le Baiser d'Adieu_,                                              i  343
+  _L'Image de la Vie_,                                              i  344
+
+_Bartholi Lectura de Spira_, 1471. Folio.
+In the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  316
+
+_Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par, &c_.
+1818. 8vo.                                                        iii  393
+
+_Bella (La) Mano_, 1474, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  321
+
+_Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist_. 1473, folio--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  317
+
+_Berlinghieri, Geografia_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                         iii  321
+
+_Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons_, no date,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  165
+
+_Bessarionis Epistolæ_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   24
+
+BIBLIA LATINA, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald--in
+the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate
+engraving of that Monarch's portrait,                              ii   65
+
+------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library,                  ii   67
+
+------ ------ XVth century, of the _Emperor Wenceslaus_--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  290
+
+BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century,                      ii   69
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta Complut_. 1516, &c. in the
+Public Library at Coutances,                                        i  270
+
+------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  149
+
+------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut,            iii  181
+
+------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards
+that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut,                iii  181
+
+------ ------ _Walton_; royal copy, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  211
+
+------ ------ with the original
+dedication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                   iii   22
+
+------ ------ in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria,                      iii  237
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay_: in the Library of the Lycée
+at Bayeux                                                           i  245
+
+------ _Hebraica, edit. Soncini_, 1488, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  303
+
+_Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant_, 1753, in a
+Private Collection near Bayeux,                                     i  235
+
+---- ---- _Hahn_, 1806, in the Library of the
+Monastery of Closterneuburg,                                      iii  396
+
+---- _Græca, Aldus_, 1518, folio--Francis Ist's copy,
+upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  148
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, upon thick paper, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  157
+
+---- ---- the usual copy, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+_Biblia Latina_, (_edit. Maz. 1455_) folio, 2 vols.,
+two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  106
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                 ii  190
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich,                 iii  139
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  302
+
+---- ---- _Pfister_, (1461) folio, 3 vols. in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,   iii   39
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+---- _Fust und Schoeffher_, 1462: folio--three copies,
+(two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  154
+
+---- ---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,           ii  173
+
+---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                ii  190
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut,          iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+_Biblia Latina Mentelin_--in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  404
+
+_Biblia Latino Mentelin_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- _Eggesteyn_, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  404
+
+---- ---- (ms. date, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich,       iii  141
+
+---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                    iii   55
+
+---- 1475, folio, _Frisner_, &c.--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   96
+
+---- (1475 _edit. Gering_) imperfect copy in the
+Chapter Library at Bayeux,                                          i  244
+
+---- _Hailbrun_, 1476, folio: two copies, of which
+one is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  303
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,                                                        ii  405
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--and a
+second copy upon paper,                                           iii  303
+
+---- ---- 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,               i  208
+
+---- ---- _Froben_, 1495, 8vo. in the Public Library
+at Vire,                                                            i  298
+
+BIBLIA GERMANICA, MS. of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  290
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  403
+
+---- ---- two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,         iii   21
+
+---- ---- two copies in the Public Library at Munich,             iii  140
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  180
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio, in the Library at
+Closterneuburg Monastery,                                         iii  397
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Ratisbon, _Supplement_,        iii  418
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, in the Public Library
+at Landshut,                                                      iii  180
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  397
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Sorg. Augsbourg_, 1477, folio, in
+the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,                      iii  236
+
+---- ---- _Peypus_, 1524, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   22
+
+_Biblia Italica; Kalend. Augusti_, 1471--folio--in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  191
+
+---- ---- imperfect copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,     iii   22
+
+---- ---- _Kalend. Octobris_, 1471, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                                       ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  303
+
+_Bibl. Hist, Venet_. 1492, folio--copy purchased of
+M. Fischeim at Munich,                                            iii  154
+
+_Biblia Bohemica_, 1488, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  109
+
+---- _Polonica_, 1563, folio--in the same Library,                 ii  109
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg,              iii   96
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1599; folio--in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,           ii  174
+
+_Biblia Hungarica_, 1565, folio--incomplete, in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+---- _Sclavonica_, 1581, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- 1587, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,              ii  109
+
+_Bible, La Sainte_, 1669, folio; large paper copy in
+the Public Library of Caen,                                         i  211
+
+BIBLIA-HISTORICA, _MS. versibus germanicis_, Sec.
+XIV.--in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                          iii   29
+
+---- _Aurea. Lat. I. Zeiner_, 1474, folio--in the
+Library of Chremsminster Monastery,                               iii  222
+
+---- _Pauperum, block book_: in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii  108
+
+---- ---- _block book_, German,--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart                                                         iii   26
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, first edition, in the same Library,           iii   27
+
+---- ---- _block book_--one German, and two Latin
+editions, in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  136
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+BIOGRAPHY, ROYAL, OF FRANCE;--XVIth century--magnificent
+MS. in the Royal Library at Paris.                                 ii   87
+
+BLAZONRY OF ARMS, BOOK OF--XIVth century, with fac-simile
+portrait of _Leopold de Sempach_ in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  299
+
+_Block books_; at Paris, ii 208, at Stuttgart, iii 26,
+at Munich, iii 134; at Landshut, iii 181; at Vienna, iii 331.
+
+BOCACE, DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES,
+MS. XVth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii   84
+
+---- ---- two more MSS. of the same work, in the same Library,     ii   85
+
+_Boccace Ruines des-Nobles Hommes_, &c. 1476,
+_Colard Mansion_, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio Il Decamerone_, 1471, _Valdarfer_,
+folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  125
+
+---- ---- 1472, _A. de Michaelibus_, folio, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio II Decamerone_, in the Public Library at
+Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                          iii  431
+
+---- ---- 1476, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  321
+
+---- ---- _Deo Gracias, Sine Anno: forsan edit. prin_. in
+the Public Library at Munich,                                     iii  143
+
+---- _Nimphale_, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+_Boetius, F. Johannes_, 1474, 4to. in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve. at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+_Bonifacii Papæ Libr. Decret_, 1465, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Mölk Monastery,                                 iii  252
+
+---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+_Bonnie vie, ou Madenie, Chambery_, 1485, folio,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  326
+
+Book of the Gospels of the Emperor Lotharius, Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   67
+
+BREVIAIRE DE BELLEVILLE, MS. xivth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   72
+
+BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, MS. xvth century--in
+the Royal Library at Paris--with copper plate fac-simile
+of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same,          ii   73
+
+BREVIARE DE M. DE MONMORENCY, MS. xvith century--in the
+Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna,                iii  386
+
+BREVIARIUM ECCL. Liss. MS.; in the Public Library at
+Caen                                                                i  209
+
+BRUT D'ANGLETERE, MS. xivth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  300
+
+_Budæi Comment, in Ling. Gr_. 1529, folio--Francis 1st.
+copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  140
+
+_Burtrio, Anthon. de, Adam Rot_, 1472, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+
+C.
+
+_Cæsar_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  128
+
+_Cæsar_, 1460, folio, in the Mazarine Library,                     ii  192
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library,                   iii  309
+
+---- 1471. _Jenson_, in the library of Göttwic Monastery,         iii  430
+
+---- 1472. _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  309
+
+_Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot_.--1472. Folio, in
+the library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+CALENDARIUM, MS., xvith century in the Public Library
+at Munich                                                         iii  128
+
+---- ---- _Regiomontani, block book_ in the Public
+Library at Munich                                                 iii  138
+
+_Cantica Canticorum, Edit. Prin_. three copies in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  138
+
+_Castille et Artus d'Algarbe_, 1587. 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris                                    ii  160
+
+_Catéchisme à l'usage des grandes filles pour êtres mariés_         i   89
+
+_Caterina da Bologna_, no Date. 4to. in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+---- _da Sienna_, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  322
+
+---- _de Senis_, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  149
+
+_Catholicon_, 1460, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library Paris,                                               ii  114
+
+---- ---- 1460, folio, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,                iii  317
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+---- _G, Zeiner_, 1469, UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- ---- in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster,               iii  221
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  317
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, 1472, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  128
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, in the
+Mazarine Library,                                                  ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  409
+
+_Caxton, books printed by_, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  102
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Celestina Commedia de, Anvers_, 18mo., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  162
+
+_Chaucer's Book of Fame, Caxton_, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+CHESS, GAME OF, _metrical German version of_,
+MS., sec. xv., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                 iii  154
+
+_Chevalier Delibre_, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  326
+
+CHEVALIER AU LION, MS., 1470, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii  33
+
+_Chivalry_; see _Tournaments_.
+
+_Chrétien de Mechel_, Cat. des Tableaux de la Galerie
+imp. et roy. de Vienne, 1781, 8vo.,                               iii  371
+
+---- _Foresii, Lat_. 1474, folio, _printed by Gotz_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  405
+
+---- _Hungariæ_, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii   99
+
+_Chronicon Gottwicense_, 1732, folio, 2 vols., some
+account of this rare and valuable work,                           iii  436
+
+---- ---- referred to,                                            iii  271
+
+_Chrysostomi Comment., Gr_. 1529, folio, copy of
+Diane de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                  i  213
+
+_Cicero, de Officiis_ 1465, 4to., two copies
+UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., upon paper, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  192
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Imp.
+Lib. at Vienna,                                                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- (_Aldus_), 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+_Cicero, Epistolæ ad Familiares_, 1467, Cardinal
+Bessarion's copy in the Imperial Library, at Vienna,              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S. and Pannartz_, folio,
+in the same Library,                                              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S: and Pannartz_, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+---- ---- 1469, _I. de Spira_, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1502, Aldus, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession
+of M. Renouard, bookseller,                                        ii  222
+
+_Cicero, de Oratore, Monast. Soubiac_., folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                               ii  173
+
+---- ---- _V. de Spira_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  408
+
+---- _Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han_, folio, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  142
+
+---- _De Natura Deorum, V. de Spira_. 1471, folio, in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  192
+
+---- _Rhetorica Vetus, Jenson_, 1470, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                        ii  175
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  310
+
+---- _Orationes, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  310
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+(wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  141
+
+---- ---- 1519, _Aldus_, 8vo, UPON VELLUM, first volume
+only, in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  146
+
+----  ---- perfect copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of St.
+Geneviève,                                                         ii  177
+
+---- _Opera Omnia_, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1534, _Giunta_, folio, singular copy in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  152
+
+_Cid el Cavalero_, 1627, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris: bound with _Seys Romances del Cid Ruy
+Diaz de Bevar_, 1627, 4to.                                         ii  161
+
+CITÉ DE DIEU, MS., in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii   82
+
+_Cité des Dames, (Verard)_ folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Codex Ebnerianus_, referred to                                   iii  447
+
+_Compendium Morale_, folio, UPON VELLUM, unique copy,
+late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  443
+
+COSTENTIN DU, MS., in the Public Library at Caen,                   i  209
+
+COUTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  210
+
+_Coutumes Anciennes_, 1672, 12mo. at Caen,                          i  211
+
+_Cronica del Cid. Seville_. 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  327
+
+Cronique de France, 1493, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  130
+
+---- _de Florimont_, 1529, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  164
+
+---- _de Cleriadus_, 1529, 4to.,--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+
+D.
+
+_Daigremont et Vivian_, 1538, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  166
+
+_Dante Numeister_, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  322
+
+---- _Petrus Adam_, 1472, folio, in the Library of
+Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+---- ---- _Neapoli, Tuppi,_ folio, in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   25
+
+---- ---- _Milan_, 1478, with, the comments of G. Tuzago,
+folio, in the same collection,                                    iii   25
+
+---- 1481, folio, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  144
+
+---- 1481, folio, with xx copper-plates, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Decor Puellarum, Jenson_, 1461, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Defensio Immac. Concept. B.V.M_. 1470, _block book_,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  139
+
+_Delphin Classics_, fine set of, in the library of
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  222
+
+_Der Veis Ritter_, 1514, folio, unique copy, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,                                       iii  183
+
+_Dion Cassius_, 1548, Gr. folio, edit. prin., Diane
+de Poictiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  152
+
+_Dio Chrysostom. de Regno, Valdarfer_, 4to. UPON
+VELLUM, in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,            iii  388
+
+DIOSCORIDES, GRÆCE, MS., VIth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  296
+
+DIVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to. in the Library
+of the Arsenal,                                                    ii  167
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library, Vienna,                        iii  317
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Public
+Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                               iii  430
+
+---- ---- 1474, _I. Zeiner_, folio, in the Library
+of Chremsminster Monastery,                                       iii  222
+
+
+E.
+
+ECHECS AMOREUX. MS. folio--with copper-plate fac-simile
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   83
+
+_Echec Jeu de, (Verard)_ no date--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  132
+
+_Ein nuizlich büchlin, Augs_., 1498, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  327
+
+_Erasmus expurgatus iuxta cens. Acad. Lovan_. 1579,
+folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See _Testament.
+Novum,_ 1516.                                                     iii  102
+
+EVANGELIA QUATUOR, Lat. MS. VIth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   64
+
+---- ---- VIIIth century, in the Library at
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  224
+
+---- ---- IXth century--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  123
+
+---- ---- XIth century, in the same Library,                      iii  124
+
+---- ---- Xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut,         iii  179
+
+---- ---- XIth century--in the Public Library at Stuttgart,       iii   27
+
+---- ---- XIVth century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna        iii  291
+
+EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS, MS. Lat. XIth century, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   71
+
+_Evangelia cum Epistolis: Ital_. folio--in the
+Library of Göttwic Monastery,                                     iii  428
+
+Evangelistarium, of Charlemagne, MS. folio, in the Private
+Library of the King, at Paris,                                     ii  199
+
+_Euclides_, 1482, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  139
+
+---- ---- four varying copies of, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- Ratdolt. 1485, in the Library of the Monastery
+of St. Florian,                                                   iii  236
+
+_Euripides, Gr_., 1503, _Aldus_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  145
+
+_Eustathius in Homerum_, 1542--folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  138
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  151
+
+---- ---- 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Eutropius_, 1471, _Laver_, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+_Exhortation against the Turks_ (1472) in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  135
+
+
+F.
+
+_Fait de la Guerre C. Mansion_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  127
+
+_Fazio Dita Mundi_, 1474, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Ficheti Rhetorica--Gering_--4to.--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+_Fiorio e Biancifiore, Bologna_, 1480, folio--in the
+Library of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                  ii  161
+
+_Fierbras_, 1486, folio--Prince Eugene's copy, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Fortalitium Fidei_--folio--no date--in the Public
+Library, at Munich: curious printed advertisement in this copy,   iii  145
+
+_Frezzi Il Quadriregio_, 1481, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Fulgosii Anteros_--1496--folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  323
+
+FUNERAILES DES REINES DE FRANCE, MS. folio--in the
+Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                           iii  387
+
+
+G.
+
+_Galenus, Gr_. 1525, folio. _Aldus_--large paper,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+_Galien et Jaqueline_, 1525, folio--in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  163
+
+_Gallia Christiana_, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library
+at Bayeux,                                                         ii  244
+
+_Games of Chess, Caxton_, folio, 2d. edit.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+GENESIS--MS. of the _ivth century--fragments of Chapters
+of_, account of--with fac-simile Illuminations, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  289
+
+_Gerard Comte de Nevers_, 1526, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Geyler, Navic. Fat_. 1511, 4to.--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  102
+
+_Gloria Mulierum Jenson_, 4to.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  324
+
+_Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  333
+
+_Gospels_, folio--MS. xiiith century--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  386
+
+_Grammatica Rythmica_, 1466, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  114
+
+_Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher_, 1472, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,               iii  398
+
+_Guillaume de Palerne_, 1552, 4to, in the Library of the
+Arsenal: another edition, 1634, 4to.,                              ii  166
+
+_Guy de Warwick_, no date, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  159
+
+_Gyron Le Courtoys_, no date, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  130
+
+
+H.
+
+_Hartlieb's Chiromancy, block book_, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  115
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Helayne La Belle_, 1528, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+_Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aulide_, Gr. et Lat. 1507,
+UPON VELLUM, 8vo.                                                  ii  145
+
+_Hector de Troye, Arnoullet_, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+_Heures, printed by Vostre_, fine copy of, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  210
+
+_Herodotus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldus_, folio, large paper
+copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                                ii  150
+
+HISTORIA B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., folio, xvth century,
+in the Public Library at Paris,                                    ii   76
+
+---- ---- _block book_, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Historiæ Augusta Scriptores_, 1475, folio, _P. de
+Lavagna_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  408
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1521, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+_History of Bohemia_, _by Pope Pius II_, 1475,
+in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                               iii   99
+
+HISTOIRE ROMAINE, MS, xvth century; folio, 3 vols.
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   87
+
+_Homeri Opera, Gr_., 1488, folio, UNCUT, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  129
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  311
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  432
+
+---- ---- _No date_, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  145
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  177
+
+---- ---- 1808, _Bodoni_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  129
+
+---- ---- _Batrachomyomachia_, _Gr._ 4to., edit.
+prin. in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  311
+
+HORÆ B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., 8vo., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii   74
+
+---- ---- folio, belonging to ANN OF BRITANNY, with copper
+plate  engraving of her portrait therefrom, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   78
+
+---- ---- belonging to Pope Paul III. in the same Library,         ii   80
+
+---- ---- MS., XVth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   37
+
+---- ---- 8vo., in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,    iii  386
+
+---- STI. LUDOVICI, MS., XIIIth century, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  157
+
+---- ---- _Gr._ 1497, 12mo. _printed by Aldus_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  103
+                                                                      -147
+
+---- ---- purchase of a copy from Mr. Stöger, at Munich,          iii  151
+
+HORATIUS, M. S., XIIth century in the Mölk Monastery,             iii  258
+
+---- Edit. Prin. 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg,        iii   96
+
+---- _Venet_. 1494, 4to., purchased of Mr. Fischeim,
+at Munich,                                                        iii  154
+
+---- 1501, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+_Horloge de Sapience, Verard_, 1493, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  131
+
+HORTUS DELICIARUM, MS., XIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  401
+
+HORTULUS ANIMÆ, MS., XVth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  294
+
+---- ---- 1498, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   38
+
+---- _Rosarum, &c_., 1499, 8vo., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  101
+
+_Huet, Demonstrat. Evang_. 1690, (1679?) folio, unique
+copy in the Public Library at Caen,                                 i  211
+
+_Huon de Bourdeaux_, four editions of, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  163
+
+
+I.
+
+_Isocrates, Gr., Aldus_, 1534, folio, large paper copy
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+---- ---- Printed at Milan, 1493, folio,                           ii  149
+
+_Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  103
+
+---- ---- _same edition_, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  155
+
+_Jason, printed by Caxton_, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,           iii  332
+
+_Iehan de Saintré, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  165
+
+---- _Paris, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the same collection,      ii  165
+
+JEROME, ST., VIE, MORT, ET MIRACLES DE, MS., XVth
+century, in the Public Library of Stuttgart,                      iii   31
+
+_Ieronimi Epistolæ_, 1468, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  398
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+----  ---- 1470, _Schoeffher_, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  406
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _Parmæ_, 1480, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+_Josephus, Lat_. 1480, folio, in the Library of the
+Monastery of St. Florian,                                         iii  236
+
+---- _Gallicè_, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  328
+
+_Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date_, 4to.,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  166
+
+_Jouvencel le_, 1497, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Juvenalis_, folio, _V. de Spira_, edit. prin. in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  409
+
+---- _Ulric. Han. typ. grand_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  311
+
+---- 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,                    i  208
+
+--- _I. de Fivizano_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  311
+
+
+L.
+
+_Lactantii Institutiones_, 1465, folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  112
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,                        ii  172
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  192
+
+---- ---- _Rostoch_, 1476, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  305
+
+LANCELOT DU LAC, MS., XIVth century, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii   88
+
+---- ---- another MS. of about the same period, in the same
+Library,                                                           ii   89
+
+---- ---- another manuscript in the same library,                  ii  89
+
+
+---- ---- 1488, _Verard_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                        iii   328
+
+---- ---- 1494, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                    iii  130
+
+---- ---- 1496, _Verard,_ folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Lascaris Gram. Græc_. 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+LEGES BAVARICÆ, MS., XIIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  179
+
+_Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson_, 1476,
+folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                           ii  191
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  324
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Gering_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Caen,                                                            i  208
+
+_Les Deux Amans, Verard_, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  328
+
+LIBER GENERATIONIS IES. XTI. MS. VIIth century:
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   70
+
+_Liber Modorum significandi_, 1480, _St.
+Albans_,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                           ii  125
+
+_Liber Moralisat. Bibl_. 1474, Ulm, folio--copy purchased
+of M. Fischeim, at Munich,                                        iii  154
+
+LIBER PRECUM, _cum not. et cant_. MS. _pervet_. in the
+  Royal Library at Paris,                                          ii   71
+
+---- ---- MS. xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich,      iii  131
+
+_Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis--block books_--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  331
+
+_Life of Christ, block book_--in the Public Library at
+Munich,                                                           iii  134
+
+_Littleton's Tenures, Lettou_, &c. folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  333
+
+LIVIUS, MS. XVth century--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  298
+
+---- 1469, folio,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  122
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same Library,                         ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- 1472, _S. and Pann_., folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  123
+
+_Lombardi Petri Sentent. (Eggesteyn)_, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+_Lucanus_, 1469, folio--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- 1475, folio, cum comment. Omniboni--in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+_Luciani Opera_, Gr. 1496, folio--fine copy, in
+the possession of M. Renouard, at Paris,                           ii  230
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, folio--large paper copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  151
+
+---- ---- _Opusc. Quæd. Lat_. 1494--4to.--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                        iii  311
+
+_Lucretius_, 1486, folio--in the King's Private
+Collection at Stuttgart,                                          iii   39
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1515, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, (supposed
+to be unique) in the Royal Library at Paris,                       ii  146
+
+_Luctus Christianorum, Jenson_, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Ludolphus Vita Christi (Eggesteyn)_, 1474, folio,
+in the Public Library at Nancy,                                    ii  363
+
+---- ---- _De Terra Sancta_, &c. 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  317
+
+
+M.
+
+_Mabrian_, 1625, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at Paris,                                                          ii  163
+
+_Maguelone, La Belle_, 1492, _Trepperel_, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  328
+
+_Maius, de propriet. prisc. verb_. 1477. folio--_B. de
+Colonia_--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  407
+
+_Mammotrectus, Schoeffher_, 1470--folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg,                       iii  398
+
+---- ---- _H. de Helie_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+MANDEVILLE, MS. _German_--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   32
+
+_Manilius_, 1474, folio,--in the King's Private
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   39
+
+_Marco Polo, Germ_. 1477, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  329
+
+_Marsilius Ficinus: In Dionysium Areopagitam_, no
+Date, folio, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,            ii  176
+
+_Martialis_, 1475, folio--in the Library of a Capuchin
+Monastery, near Vienna,                                           iii  403
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1502, 8vo. two copies UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  146
+
+MAYNI IASONIS EPITALAMION, MS. 4to.--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  387
+
+_Mayster of Sentence, Caxton_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+_Meinart, St. Life of, block book_: in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+_Melusina, Historie von der, Germ_. no date, folio,
+in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                       iii   41
+
+_Melusine, P. Le Noir_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal        ii  167
+
+_Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles Lettres
+&c. at Rouen_, vol. i. page 49, of a _similar_ Society
+at Caen,                                                            i  185
+
+_Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di_, 1533,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  159
+
+_Meurin Fils d'Oger, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  167
+
+_Milles et Amys, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  131
+
+---- ---- _Rouen_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at ditto,                                                          ii  162
+
+_Mirabilia Urbis Romæ, block book_,--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+MISSALE, MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   30
+
+---- ---- XVth century, two in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   31
+
+---- ---- of Charles the Bold, XVth century--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna, with fac-simile,                  iii  292
+
+---- ---- XVth century,--in the Public Library at Munich,         iii  129
+
+---- ---- 8vo.--belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  180
+
+---- _Herbipolense_ (1479), folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  306
+
+---- ---- _Venet_. 1488, folio,--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                    iii  388
+
+---- _Pro. Patav. Eccl. Ritu_, 1494, folio, in the
+Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                     iii  403
+
+---- _Mozarabicum_, 1500, folio--with the Breviary
+1502, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                      ii  156
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,                        ii  178
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- _Parisiense_, 1522, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  156
+
+_Missal of Henry IV_. XVIth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   81
+
+_Missa Defunctorum, Viennæ_, 1499, folio, in the Library
+of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                             iii  403
+
+_Montaigne's Essays_, 1635, folio, large paper, in the
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  212
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio,--in the Royal
+Library, at Paris,                                                 ii  134
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Moreri des Normans; par I.A. Guiat_, MS. in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Morgant le Géant_, 1650, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Mori Thomæ Opera, edit. Lovan_. 1566, folio, in the
+Library of the Lycée at Bayeux,                                     i  245
+
+_Munsteri Cosmographia_, 1556, folio, copy of, belonging
+to D. de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                 ii  214
+
+_Mureti Disticha_, Lat. and Fr. _chap book_, at Vire,               i  286
+
+
+N.
+
+_Nanceidos Liber_, 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. notes of
+Bochart, in the Public Library at Caen,                             i  212
+
+---- ---- two copies of, one upon large paper, in the
+Public Library at Nancy,                                           ii  362
+
+---- ---- one, UPON VELLUM, in the possession of Messrs. Payne
+and Foss,                                                          ii  362
+
+_Nef des Folz du Monde_, Verard, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+---- ---- Printed by the same, UPON VELLUM, in the
+same library,                                                      ii  133
+
+_Nef des Dames, Arnollet, à Lyon_, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  160
+
+_Niger P., contra perfidos Judæos_, 1475, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+_Nonius Marcellus_, 1471, folio,--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+_Nova Statuta, Machlinia_, in the Royal Library at Paris,          ii  125
+
+_Novelas, por de Maria Zayas_, 1637, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  160
+
+---- _Amorosas_, 1624, 4to. in the same Library,                   ii  160
+
+
+O.
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., XVth century, in the
+Emperor's private collection at Vienna,                           iii  386
+
+---- ---- MS., XVIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,    iii  129
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., in the same library,                 iii  130
+
+_Ogier le Danois_, 1525, folio, in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  162
+
+_Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azoguidi_, 1471, wanting two
+leaves, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  141
+
+---- _Fasti, Azoguidi_, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  312
+
+---- _Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  312
+
+---- _Epistolæ et Fasti_, folio, in the same collection,          iii  312
+
+
+P.
+
+_Paris et Vienne, Paris_, no date, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  164
+
+_Pentateuch, Hebr._ 1491, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  111
+
+_Petrarcha Sonetti_, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  325
+
+---- ---- 1473, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1473, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Comment. Borstii, Bologn_., 1475, folio, two
+copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one
+belonged to Prince Eugene,                                        iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Bolog._, 1476, folio, (_Azoguidi_[178])
+with the comment of Philelphus, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   25
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+---- ---- 1514, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession of
+M. Renouard, bookseller,                                           ii  229
+
+---- ---- 1521, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   41
+
+---- _Sonetti cum Comment. Velutelli_, 1546, 8vo.,                iii   41
+
+---- _Hist. Griseldis, Lat_., 1473, folio,--Prince Eugene's
+copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                           iii  318
+
+_Phalaris Epist_., 1471, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio, in the same collection,             iii  319
+
+PHILOSTRATUS, _Lat_., MS., XVth century in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  297
+
+_Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne_, 1490,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  165
+
+_Pindarus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldi_, 12mo., in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  237
+
+_Plautus_, 1472, folio, edit. prin. in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  192
+
+---- 1522, _Aldus_, 4to., Grolier's copy, apparently
+_large paper_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  148
+
+_Plinius Senior_, 1469, folio, one copy, UPON VELLUM,
+and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,             ii  120
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,                        ii  174
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  312
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  120
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  313
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Library of Closterneuburg
+Monastery,                                                        iii  398
+
+---- ---- _Ital_. 1476, _Jenson_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,          iii  313
+
+_Plutarchi Vitæ; Parallellæ, Ital_., folio, Litt. R.,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  409
+
+---- ---- the same edition in the Monastic Library at
+Closterneuburg,                                                   iii  398
+
+_Plutarchi Opuscula Moralia, Gr_, 1509, _Aldus_,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  137
+
+_Poetæ Græci Principes, Gr_., 1556, folio, large paper,
+De Thou's copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  152
+
+_Pogii Facetiæ, Monast. Euseb_., folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  319
+
+---- _Hist. Fiorent._, 1476, folio, UPON VELLUM and paper,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  325
+
+POLYBIUS, _Gr_. MS., sec. XVI., Diane de Poictiers's copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   99
+
+_Polybius, Lat., S. and Pannartz_, 1473, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                              iii  398
+
+PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD, Ill. MS. 4to, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   67
+
+_Priscianus_, 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  139
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  319
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  319
+
+----, _Aldus_, 1527, 8vo., Grolier's copy, upon large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+----, _Printed by V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève,                                         ii  175
+
+PSALTERIUM, MS., IXth century, of Charles the Bald; in
+the Public Library at Paris;                                       ii   66
+
+---- ----, Sti. Ludovici, XIIIth century, in the
+same library,                                                      ii   68
+
+---- ----, XIth century, in the Public Library at Stuttgart       iii   27
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the same Collection,                 iii   28
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   36
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  125
+
+---- ----, with most splendid illuminations, of the XVIth
+century, in the same library,                                     iii  133
+
+---- ----, St. Austin, XVth century, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   33
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, 1457, _Fust and Schoeffher_, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  104
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  306
+
+_Psalterium Latine_, 1459, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1490, folio, _Schoeffher_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1502, folio, _Schoeffher_, in the same library,         --  106
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, _Printed by Schoeffher's Son_,
+1516, folio,                                                       ii  106
+
+---- ----, without date--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,       iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Lips_. 1486, 4to.--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+PTOLEMÆUS, _Lat_. MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii   85
+
+---- ----  MS. folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,         ii   59
+
+---- ----, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  319
+
+---- ----, _Printed by Buckinck_, 1478, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  320
+
+
+Q.
+
+_Quintilianus, I. de Lignam_, 1470, folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                               ii  175
+
+---- ----, 1471, _Jenson_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                       iii  431
+
+
+R.
+
+_Ratdolt_, specimens of the types from his press, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  144
+
+_Recueil des Histoires de Troye, printed by Caxton_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  102
+
+---- ---- _printed by Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the same Library,                                               ii  102
+
+_Regnars, les, &c. Verard_, 4to. Prince Eugene's copy
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  329
+
+_Regulæ, Confitend. peccata sua. Ital_., 1473, 4to., in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  326
+
+_Repertorium Statut. Ord. Carth_. 1510, folio, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  202
+
+_Richard sans Peur, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  158
+
+---- _Bonfons, no date_, 4to., in the same library,                ii  158
+
+_Robert le Diable, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  158
+
+_Romances, MS_., in the Royal Library at Paris,                    ii   88
+
+---- ----, _printed_, in the same Library,                         ii  131
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                    ii  407
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  126
+
+_Ronsard_, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+ROSE, ROMAN DE LA, MS. XIVth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   95
+
+---- ---- MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   31
+
+---- ---- _Verard_, no date, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 ii   131
+
+_Rossei opus elegans, &c., Pynson_, 1523, 4to.,
+the author's copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  183
+
+
+S.
+
+SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA _Pap. Greg_., MS., VIth
+century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                       iii  290
+
+_Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram_., copy in the chapter
+Library at Bayeux, i. 244, in the Library of the Lycée
+at Bayeux,                                                          i  245
+
+_Sannazarii Arcadia_, 1514, _Aldus_, 8vo., Grolier's
+copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  148
+
+_Sannazarius de partu Virginis, Aldi_, 1527, 12mo. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+SCHAKZABEL, DER, MS. 1400 or 1450, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   32
+
+_Séguin, Histore Militaire des Bocains_, quoted,
+i 300, 301, 302, _sur l'histoire de l'industrie du
+Bocage, en général, et de la ville de Vire sa capitale
+en particulière_, 1810, 8vo.,                                       i  303
+
+_Servius in Virgilium_, see _Virgilius_.
+
+_Sforziada La_, 1480, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  134
+
+_Shyppe of Fools_, 1509, 8vo. _printed by W.
+Worde_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                ii  103
+
+_SIBILÆ, &c_., MS., xvth century, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  127
+
+_Silius Italicus, Laver_, 1471, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  313
+
+---- ---- _S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Spec. Hum, Salv_, 1476, folio, _printed by Richel_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  407
+
+_Spec. Morale P. Bellovacensis_, 1476, folio,                      ii  405
+
+---- _Judiciale Durandus_, Printed by Hussner and
+Rekenhub, 1473, folio,                                             ii  405
+
+_Speculum Stultorum_, _no date_, 4to., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Statius in usum Delphini_, 4to., two copies, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  156
+
+---- ---- beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsminster
+monastery,                                                        iii  222
+
+_Statutes of Richard III. Machlinia_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  124
+
+---- ---- in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,             iii   41
+
+_Stephani, H. Gloss. Græc_. 1573, &c., folio--_cum notis
+mss: Bocharti_, copy of, in the Public Library at Caen,             i  211
+
+_Successos y Prodigos de Amor_, 1626, 4to., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  161
+
+_Suetonius I. de Lignamine_, 1470, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                                       ii  175
+
+_Suetonius S. and Pannartz_, 1470, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- _Jenson_, 1471, 4to.,--in the same collection,               iii  313
+
+---- _Reisinger_, 4to.,--_without date_, in the
+private royal collection at Stuttgart,                            iii   39
+
+_Suidas, Gr_., 1499, folio--Lambecius's copy, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  314
+
+---- 1503, folio, _Aldus_--large paper copy, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  151
+
+_Sypperts de Vinevaulx, Paris, no date_, 4to.--in
+the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                               ii  159
+
+
+T.
+
+_Tacitus, I. de Spira_, folio, edit. prin. in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  314
+
+_Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata_, the author's
+autograph--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  300
+
+_Terentius, Mentelin_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  314
+
+----, _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,           ii  136
+
+----, _Reisinger_, folio--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   23
+
+_Testamentum Novum, Hollandicè et Russ_., 1717, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  110
+
+---- ----, _Bohemice, Sec_. xv--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Græcè Erasmi_, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+---- ----, _R. Stephani_, 1550, folio--Diane de Poictiers's
+copy--in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  150
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,                                       ii  179
+
+---- ----, two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  147
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio, UPON VELLUM, two copies
+of, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                            iii  329
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,        iii  238
+
+_Theophrastus_, 1497, Gr. _Aldus_,--Diane de
+Poictiers's copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at Paris,       ii  231
+
+_Thucydide, Gourmont_, folio, _Verard_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna--Prince Eugene's copy,          iii  330
+
+TITE LIVE, MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii   86
+
+_Tityrell and Pfartzival_, 1477, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,         iii  236
+
+TOURNAMENTS, BOOK OF, MS. xvth century--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   95
+
+---- ---- duplicate and more recent copy of                        ii   99
+
+_Tracts_, Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg, folio,                   ii  111
+
+_Trebisond, Paris_, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+TRISTAN, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii   91
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same library,                        ii   91
+
+---- ----, a third MS. in the same library,                        ii   92
+
+---- _Gall_. Sec. XIII., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  299
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same Collection,                    iii  300
+
+_Tristran, Verard_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  330
+
+_Trithemii Annales Hirsaugienses_, 1690, folio--in
+the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster,                    iii  227
+
+---- ----, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery,
+near Vienna,                                                      iii  403
+
+_Troys filz de Roys_, Paris, no date, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal,                                            ii  164
+
+_Tully of Old Age, Caxton_--in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  124
+
+_Turrecremata I. de Meditationes, Ulric Han_, 1467,
+folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                         iii  320
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+---- ----, 1473, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  307
+
+
+V.
+
+VALERIUS MAXIMUS, MS. xvth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  298
+
+---- ---- _Mentelin_, folio--two copies in the
+Public Library at Strasbourg,                                      ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- ---- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                      iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Coes & Stol_, folio--in
+the Public Library at Caen,                                         i  208
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1534, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Valturius De Re Militari_, 1472, folio--in the
+Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                iii  321
+
+_Vaudevires, Basselin_, 1811,                                       i  212
+                                                                      -289
+
+_Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, at Caen,                              i  208
+
+_Virgilius, S. & Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg--incomplete,         ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  117
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Royal Library  at Paris,              ii  117
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  118
+
+_Virgilius_, 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, late
+in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                               iii   23
+
+---- ---- 1471, _V. de Spira_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  315
+
+---- ---- 1471, _Adam_, folio--late in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   23
+
+---- _Servius in Virgilium_. _Ulric Han_,
+folio--Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  191
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio--in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  408
+
+---- ---- 1478, _Gering_, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  119
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  146
+
+---- ---- 1505, 8vo.--in the possession of M. Renouard,
+bookseller,                                                        ii  230
+
+---- _S. and Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève,                                                 ii  174
+
+---- _Gallicè_, 1582, folio--in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+VITÆ SANCTORUM, MS. Sec. XII.--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   29
+
+_Vitruvius Giuntæ_, 1513, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in
+the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,                            ii  178
+
+Vocabularius, Bechtermuntze, 1467, 4to.                            ii  115
+
+
+U.
+
+_Utino, T. de, Sermones_, _printed by Gering_--in
+the Public Library at Vire,                                         i  297
+
+
+W.
+
+WILLIBROODI STI. VITA. AUCT. ALCUINO. MS. xith
+century, in the Private Royal Library at Stuttgart,               iii   38
+
+
+[178] In the page referred to, I have conjectured it to be printed by
+Ulric Han-or Reisinger. To these names I add the above.
+
+
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+Shakspeare Press.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+***** This file should be named 16224-8.txt or 16224-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<HTML lang="en">
+<HEAD>
+<META name="generator" content="HTML Tidy, see www.w3.org">
+<TITLE>A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL ANTIQUARIAN AND PICTURESQUE TOUR, VOL 1</TITLE>
+<META http-equiv="Content-Type" content=
+"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+<STYLE type="text/css">
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+<BODY>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One
+
+Author: Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16224]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net, from
+images generously made available by gallica (Bibliothèque
+nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<H2 class="centered">BIBLIOGRAPHICAL Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE
+TOUR.</H2>
+
+<H3 class="centered">PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE<BR>
+Shakespeare Press.</H3>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:50%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/003.png" alt="T. F. DIBDIN, D.D.">
+
+<P class="centered">T. F. DIBDIN, D.D.</P>
+
+<P class="centered">Engraved by James Thomson from the<BR>
+ Original Painting by T. Phillips Esq. R.A.<BR>
+</P>
+
+<P class="centered">London. Published June 1829 by R. Jennings,
+Poultry.</P>
+</DIV>
+
+<H3 class="centered">A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL<BR>
+Antiquarian<BR>
+AND<BR>
+PICTURESQUE TOUR<BR>
+IN<BR>
+FRANCE AND GERMANY.</H3>
+
+<H3 class="centered">BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN,
+D.D.<BR>
+MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF
+UTRECHT.</H3>
+
+<H3 class="centered">SECOND EDITION.</H3>
+
+<H3 class="centered">VOLUME I.</H3>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:30%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/004.png" alt="DEI OMNIA PLENA">
+
+<P class="centered">DEI OMNIA PLENA</P>
+</DIV>
+
+<H3 class="centered">LONDON:<BR>
+PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.<BR>
+1829.</H3>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:30%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/005.png" alt="Heraldic Shield"></DIV>
+
+<H2 class="centered">TO THE REVEREND</H2>
+
+<H1 class="centered">JOHN LODGE, M.A.</H1>
+
+<H2 class="centered">FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE,</H2>
+
+<H3 class="centered">AND</H3>
+
+<H3 class="centered">LIBRARIAN TO THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE.</H3>
+
+<P class="spaced">MY DEAR FRIEND,</P>
+
+<P>Most grateful it is to me, at all times, to bear in remembrance
+those pleasant discussions in which we were wont so frequently to
+indulge, relating to the LIBRARIES upon the Continent:--but more
+than ordinarily gratifying to me was <EM>that</EM> moment, when you
+told me, that, on crossing the Rhine, you took the third volume of
+my Tour under your arm, and on reaching the Monasteries of Mölk and
+Göttwic, gave an off-hand translation to the venerable Benedictine
+Inmates of what I had recorded concerning their MSS. and Printed
+Books, and their hospitable reception of the Author. I studiously
+concealed from You, at the time, the whole of the gratification
+which that intelligence imparted; resolving however that, should
+this work be deemed worthy of a second edition, to dedicate that
+republication to YOURSELF. Accordingly, it now comes forth in its
+present form, much enhanced, in the estimation of its Author, by
+the respectability of the name prefixed to this Dedication; and
+wishing you many years enjoyment of the honourable public situation
+with which you have been recently, and so deservedly, invested,
+allow me to subscribe myself,</P>
+
+<P>Your affectionate<BR>
+and obliged Friend,</P>
+
+<P>T.F. DIBDIN.</P>
+
+<P>Wyndham Place,<BR>
+ June 30, 1829.</P>
+
+<H3 class = "letter">CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.</H3>
+
+<H3 class = "spaced">CONTENTS.</H3>
+
+<H3>VOLUME I.</H3>
+
+<P>LETTER I.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Passage to Dieppe</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER II.</P>
+
+<P>DIEPPE. <EM>Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St.
+Remy. Divine Worship. Military Mass</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER III.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners
+and Customs. Boulevards</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER IV.</P>
+
+<P>ROUEN. <EM>Approach. Boulevards. Population.
+Street-Scenery</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER V.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Ecclesiastical Architecture. Cathedral. Monuments. Religious
+Ceremonies. The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St.
+Vincent, St. Vivien, St. Gervais, and St. Paul</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER VI.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d&#39;Orleans.
+(Jeanne d&#39;Arc). Basso-Rilievo of the Champ de Drap d&#39;Or.
+Palace and Courts of Justice</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER VII.</P>
+
+<P>ROUEN. <EM>The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec.
+Eaux de Robec et d&#39;Aubette. Mont Ste. Catherine.
+Hospices--Générale et d&#39;Humanité</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER VIII.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Early Typography at Rouen. Modern Printers. Chap Books.
+Booksellers. Book Collectors</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER IX.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Departure from Rouen. St. George de Boscherville. Duclair.
+Marivaux. The Abbey of Jumieges. Arrival at Caudebec</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER X.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Montmorenci
+Castle. Havre de Grace</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XI.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XII.</P>
+
+<P>CAEN. <EM>Soil. Society. Education. A Duel. Old houses. The
+Abbey of St. Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbé de la
+Sainte Trinité. Other Public Edifices</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XIII.</P>
+
+<P>CAEN. <EM>Literary Society. Abbé de la Rue. Messrs. Pierre-Aimé.
+Lair and Lamouroux. Medal of Malherbe. Booksellers. Memoir of the
+late M. Moysant, Public Librarian. Courts of Justice</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XIV.</P>
+
+<P>BAYEUX. <EM>Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Deacons. Crypt
+of the Cathedral</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XV.</P>
+
+<P>BAYEUX. <EM>Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apothecary and
+Book-Vendor. Visit to the Bishop. The Chapter Library. Description
+of the Bayeux Tapestry. Trade and Manufacture</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XVI.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. The Cathedral of Coutances.
+Environs. Aqueduct. Market-Day. Public Library. Establishment for
+the Clergy</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XVII.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town
+and Castle of</EM> VIRE</P>
+
+<P>LETTER XVIII.</P>
+
+<P>VIRE. <EM>Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la
+Renaudiere. Olivier Basselin. M. Séguin. The Public
+Library</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XIX.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Departure from Vire. Condé. Pont Ouilly. Arrival at</EM>
+FALAISE. <EM>Hotel of the Grand Turc. Castle of Falaise.
+Bibliomaniacal Interview</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XX.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Mons. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinité, Comte de la Fresnaye.
+Guibray Church. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M.
+Langevin, Historian of Falaise. Printing Offices</EM></P>
+
+<P>LETTER XXI.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into
+Paris</EM></P>
+
+<H3 class = "letter">LIST OF PLATES.</H3>
+
+<P>VOL. I.</P>
+
+<P>Portrait of the Author<BR>
+ Fille de Chambre, Caen<BR>
+ Portrait of the Abbé de la Rue</P>
+
+<P>VOL. II.</P>
+
+<P>Anne of Brittany<BR>
+ Medal of Louis XII<BR>
+ Pisani<BR>
+ Denon<BR>
+ Comte de Brienne<BR>
+ Stone Pulpit, Strasbourg Cathedral</P>
+
+<P>VOL. III.</P>
+
+<P>Fille de Chambre, Manheim<BR>
+ Monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra<BR>
+ Prater, Vienna</P>
+
+<H3 class = "letter">LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS.</H3>
+
+<TABLE border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" summary=
+"LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS.">
+<TR>
+<TD>&nbsp;</TD>
+<TD>Vol.</TD>
+<TD>Page.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Artaria, Dom. Manheim</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>470</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Barbier, Antoine Alexandre; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>204</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Bartsch, Adam de; Vienna</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>394</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Beyschlag, Recteur; Augsbourg</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>104</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Brial, Dom; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>254</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Brunet, Libraire; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>235</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Bure, De, Freres; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>220</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Chateaugiron, Marquis de; Paris</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>xxxviii</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Dannecker; Stuttgart</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>54</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Denon; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>293</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Gaertner, Corbinian; Salzburg</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>201</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Gail; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>259</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Hartenschneider, Udalricus; Chremsminster Monastery</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>229</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Henri ii.</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Hess, C.E.; Munich</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>165</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Lamouroux; Caen</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>137</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Lançon, Durand de; Paris</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>xxxviii</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Langevin; Falaise</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>341</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Langlès, L.; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>268</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Larenaudiere, De; Vire</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Lebret, F.C.; Stuttgart</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>56</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>May, Jean Gottlob; Augsbourg</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>104</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Millin, A.L.; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>264</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Pallas, Joachim; Mölk Monastery</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>254</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Peignot, Gabriel; Dijon</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>xxvii</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Poitiers, Diane de</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Renouard, Ant. Aug.; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>227</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Schlichtegroll, Frederic; Munich</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>161</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Schweighæuser, Fils; Strasbourg</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>426</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Van Praet; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>278</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Veesenmeyer, G.; Ulm</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>71</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Willemin; Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii.</TD>
+<TD>320</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Young,.T.; Vienna</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>390</TD>
+</TR>
+</TABLE>
+
+<H3 class = "letter">PREFACE.</H3>
+
+<P>PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.</P>
+
+<P>If I had chosen to introduce myself to the greatest possible
+advantage to the reader, in this Preface to a Second Edition of the
+&quot;<EM>Bibliographical, Antiquarian, and Picturesque
+Tour</EM>,&quot; I could not have done better than have borrowed
+the language of those Foreigners, who, by a translation of the Work
+(however occasionally vituperative their criticisms) have, in fact,
+conferred an honour upon its Author. In the midst of censure,
+sometimes dictated by spite, and sometimes sharpened by acrimony of
+feeling, it were in my power to select passages of commendation,
+which would not less surprise the Reader than they have done
+myself: while the history of this performance may be said to
+exhibit the singular phenomenon, of a traveller, usually lauding
+the countries through which he passes, receiving in return the
+reluctant approbation of those whose institutions, manners, and
+customs, have been praised by him. It is admitted, by the most
+sedulous and systematic of my opponents--M. CRAPELET--that
+&quot;considering the quantity and quality of the ornaments and
+engravings of this Tour, one is surprised that its cost is so
+moderate.&quot;<A name="fnref_1"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_1">1</A></P>
+
+<P>&quot;Few books (says the Bibliographer of Dijon) have been
+executed with greater luxury. It is said that the expenses of
+printing and engraving amounted to 6000 l.--to nearly 140,000
+franks of our money. It must be admitted that England is the only
+country in which such an undertaking could be carried into effect.
+Who in France would dare to risk such a sum-- especially for three,
+volumes in octavo? He would be ruined, if he did.&quot;<A name=
+"fnref_2"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_2">2</A> I quote these
+passages simply to shew under what extraordinary obliquity of
+feeling those gentlemen must have set down to the task of
+translation and abuse--of THAT VERY WORK, which is here admitted to
+contain such splendid representations of the &quot;bibliographical,
+antiquarian, and picturesque&quot; beauties of their country.</P>
+
+<P>A brief account of this foreign <EM>travail</EM> may be
+acceptable to the curious in literary history. MONS. LICQUET, the
+successor of M. Gourdin, as Chief Librarian to the Public Library
+at Rouen, led the way in the work of warfare. He translated the
+ninth Letter relating to that Public Library; of which translation
+especial mention is made at p. 99, post. This version was printed
+in 1821, for private, distribution; and only 100 copies were struck
+off. M. Crapelet, in whose office it was printed, felt the embers
+of discontent rekindled in his bosom as it passed through his
+press; and in the following year HE also stepped forward to
+discharge an arrow at the Traveller. Like his predecessor, he
+printed but a limited number; and as I have more particularly
+remarked upon the spirit of that version by way of
+&quot;Introduction&quot; to the original letter, in vol. ii. 209,
+&amp;c. I shall not waste the time of the Reader by any notice of
+it in the present place. These two partial translators united their
+forces, about two years afterwards, and published the whole of the
+Tour, as it related to FRANCE, in four octavo volumes, in 1825. The
+ordinary copies were sold for 48 francs, the large paper for 112
+francs per copy. The wood-cuts only were republished by them. Of
+this conjoint, and more enlarged production, presently.</P>
+
+<P>Encouraged by the examples of Messrs. Licquet and Crapelet, a
+Bookbinder of the name of LESNÉ (whose poem upon his
+&quot;Craft,&quot; published in 1820, had been copiously quoted and
+<EM>commended</EM> by me in the previous edition) chose to plant
+his foot within this arena of controversy; and to address a letter
+to me; to which his model, M. Crapelet, was too happy to give
+circulation through the medium of his press.<A name=
+"fnref_3"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_3">3</A> To that letter
+the following metrical lines are prefixed; which the Reader would
+scarcely forgive me if I failed to amuse him by their introduction
+in this place. &quot;<EM>Lesné, Relieur Français, à Mons. T.F.
+Dibdin, Ministre de la Religion, &amp;c.</EM>&quot;</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Avec un ris moqueur, je crois vous voir
+d&#39;ici,<BR>
+ Dédaigneusement dire: Eh, que veut celui-ci?<BR>
+ Qu&#39;ai-je donc de commun avec un vil artiste?<BR>
+ Un ouvrier français, un <EM>Bibliopégiste</EM>?<BR>
+ Ose-t-on ravaler un Ministre à ce point?<BR>
+ Que me veut ce <EM>Lesné</EM>? Je ne le connais point.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Je crois me souvenir qu&#39;à mon voyage en
+France,</SPAN><BR>
+ Avec ses pauvres vers je nouai connaissance.<BR>
+ Mais c&#39;est si peu de chose un poète à Paris!<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Savez-vous bien, Monsieur, pourquoi je vous
+écris?</SPAN><BR>
+ C&#39;est que je crois avoir le droit de vous écrire.<BR>
+ Fussiez-vous cent fois plus qu&#39;on ne saurait le dire,<BR>
+ Je vois dans un Ministre un homme tel que moi;<BR>
+ Devant Dieu je crois même être l&#39;égal d&#39;un roi.</P>
+
+<P>The Letter however is in prose, with some very few exceptions;
+and it is just possible that the indulgent Reader may endure a
+specimen or two of the prose of M. Lesné, as readily as he has that
+of his poetry. These specimens are equally delectable, of their
+kind. Immediately after the preceding poetical burst, the French
+Bibliopegist continues thus:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">D&#39;après cet exorde, vous pensez sans doute
+que, bien convaincu de ma dignité d&#39;homme, je me crois en droit
+de vous dire franchement ma façon de penser; je vous la dirai,
+Monsieur. Si vous dirigiez un journal bibliographique; que vous
+fissiez, en un mot, le métier de journaliste, je serai peu surpris
+de voir dans votre Trentième Lettre, une foule de choses hasardées,
+de mauvais calembourgs, de grossièretés, que nous ne rencontrons
+même pas chez nos journalistes du dernier ordre, en ce qu&#39;ils
+savent mieux leur monde, et que s&#39;ils lancent une epigramme,
+fût-elle fausse, elle est au moins finement tournée. Mais vous êtes
+ANGLAIS, et par cela seul dispensé sans doute de cette politesse
+qui distingue si heureusement notre nation de la vôtre, et que vos
+compatriotes n&#39;acquièrent pour la plupart qu&#39;après un long
+séjour en France.&quot; p. 6.</P>
+
+<P>Towards the latter part of this most formidable &quot;Tentamen
+Criticum,&quot; the irritable author breaks out
+thus--&quot;C&#39;est une maladie Française de vouloir toujours
+imiter les Anglais; ceux-ci, à leur tour, commencent à en être
+atteints.&quot; p. 19. A little farther it is thus: &quot;Enfin
+c&#39;est <EM>en imitant</EM> qu&#39;on reussit presque toujours
+mal; vous en êtes encore, une preuve évidente. J&#39;ai vu en
+beaucoup d&#39;endroits de votre Lettre, que vous avez voulu imiter
+<EM>Sterne</EM>;<A name="fnref_4"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_4">4</A> qu&#39;est-il arrivé? Vous êtes resté au- dessous de
+lui, comme tous les Imitateurs de nôtre bon La Fontaine sont restés
+en deçà de l&#39;immortel Fabuliste.&quot; p. 20. But most
+especially does the sensitive M. Lesné betray his surprise and
+apprehension, on a gratuitous supposition--thrown out by me, by way
+of pleasantry--that &quot;Mr. Charles Lewis was going over to
+Paris, to establish there a modern School of Bookbinding.&quot; M.
+Lesné thus wrathfully dilates upon this supposition:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;Je me garderai bien de passer sous silence
+la dernière partie de votre Lettre; <EM>un bruit assez étrange est
+venu jusqu&#39;à vous</EM>; et Charles Lewis doit vous quitter pour
+quelque temps pour établir en France une école de reliure
+d&#39;apres les principes du gôut anglais; mais vous croyez,
+dites-vous, que ce projet est sûrement chimérique, ou que, si on le
+tentait, il serait de courte durée.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">Pour cette fois, Monsieur, votre pronostic serait
+très juste; cette demarche serait une folie: il faudrait
+s&#39;abuser sur l&#39;engouement des amateurs français, et ceux
+qui sont atteints de cette maladie ne sont pas en assez grand
+nombre pour soutenir un pareil établissement. Oui, l&#39;on aime
+votre genre de reliure; mais on aime les reliures, façon anglaise,
+faites par les Français. Pensez-vous done, ou Charles Lewis
+pense-t-il, qu&#39;il n&#39;y ait plus d&#39;esprit national en
+France?</P>
+
+<P class="quotepoetry">Allez, le sang Française coule encore dans
+nos veines;<BR>
+ Nous pourrons éprouver des malheurs et des peines,<BR>
+ Que nous devrons peut être à vous autres Anglais;<BR>
+ Mais nous voulons rester, nous resterons, Français!</P>
+
+<P class="quote">Ainsi, que Charles Lewis ne se dérange pas;
+qu&#39;il cesse, s&#39;il les a commencés, les préparatifs de sa
+descente; qu&#39;il ne prive pas ses compatriotes d&#39;un artiste
+soi-disant inimitable. Nous en avons ici qui le valent, et qui se
+feront un plaisir de perpéteur parmi nous le bon gôut,
+l&#39;élégance, et la noble simplicité. p. 25.<A name=
+"fnref_5"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_5">5</A></P>
+
+<P>So much for M. Lesne. I have briefly noticed M. Peignot, the
+Bibliographer of Dijon. That worthy wight has made the versions of
+my Ninth and Thirtieth Letters (First Edition) by M.M. Licquet and
+Crapelet, the substratum of his first brochure entitled
+<EM>Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques</EM>,
+<EM>Paris</EM>, 1822: it being a supplement to his previous Work of
+<EM>Curiosités Bibliographiques</EM>.&quot;<A name="fnref_6"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_6">6</A> It is not always agreeable for an
+Author to have his Works reflected through the medium of a
+translation; especially where the Translator suffers a portion,
+however small, of his <EM>own</EM> atrabiliousness, to be mixed up
+with the work translated: nor is it always safe for a third person
+to judge of the merits of the original through such a medium. Much
+allowance must therefore be made for M. Peignot; who, to say the
+truth, at the conclusion of his labours, seems to think that he has
+waded through a great deal of <EM>dirt</EM> of some kind or other,
+which might have been better avoided; and that, in consequence,
+some general declaration, by way of <EM>wiping, off</EM> a portion
+of the adhering mud, is due to the original Author. Accordingly, at
+the end of his analysis of M. Licquet&#39;s version, (which forms
+the second Letter in the brochure) he does me the honour to devote
+seven pages to the notice of my humble lucubrations:--and he
+prefaces this &quot;<EM>Notice des Ouvrages de M.
+Dibdin&quot;</EM>, by the following very handsome tribute to their
+worth:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">Si, dans les deux Lettres où nous avons rendu
+compte des traductions partielles du voyage de M.D., nous avons
+partagé l&#39;opinion des deux estimable traducteurs, sur quelques
+erreurs et quelques inconvenances échappées a l&#39;auteur anglais,
+nous sommes bien éloigné d&#39;envelopper dans le même blame, tout
+ce qui est sorté de sa plume; car il y auroit injustice a lui
+refuser des connaissances très étendues en histoire littéraire, et
+en bibliographie: nous le disons franchement, il faudroit fermer
+les yeux à la lumière, ou être d&#39;une partialité revoltante,
+pour ne pas convenir que, juste appréciateur de tous les trésors
+bibliographiques qu&#39;il a le bonheur d&#39;avoir sous la main,
+M. Dibdin en a fait connoitre en détail toute la richesse dans de
+nombreux d&#39;ouvrages, ou très souvent le luxe d&#39;érudition se
+trouve en harmonie avec le luxe typographique qu&#39;il y a
+étalé.</P>
+
+<P>At the risk of incurring the imputation of vanity, I annex the
+preceding extract; because I am persuaded that the candid Reader
+will appreciate it in its proper light. I might, had I chosen to do
+so, have lengthened the extract by a yet more complimentary
+passage: but enough of M. Peignot--who, so far from suffering ill
+will or acerbity to predominate over a kind disposition, hath been
+pleased, since his publication, to write to me a very courteous
+Letter,<A name="fnref_7"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_7">7</A>
+and to solicit a &quot;continuance of my favours.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Agreeably to the intimation expressed in a preceding page, I am
+now, in due order, to notice the labours of my translators M.M.
+LICQUET and CRAPELET. Their united version appeared in 1825, in
+four octavo volumes, of which the small paper was but indifferently
+well printed.<A name="fnref_8"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_8">8</A> The preface to the first two volumes is by M.
+Licquet: and it is not divested of point and merit. It begins by
+attacking the <EM>Quarterly Review</EM>, (June 1821, p. 147.) for
+its severity of animadversion on the supposed listlessness and want
+of curiosity of the French in exploring the architectural
+antiquities of their country; and that, in consequence of such
+supineness, the English, considering them as their own property,
+have described them accordingly. &quot;The decision (says the
+French translator) is severe; happily it is without
+foundation.&quot; After having devoted several pages to
+observations by way of reply to that critical Journal, M. Licquet
+continues thus:--unless I have unintentionally misrepresented
+him.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">The Englishman who travels in Normandy, meets, at
+every step, with reminiscences of his kings, his ancestors, his
+institutions, and his customs. Churches yet standing, after the
+lapse of seven centuries; majestic ruins; tombs--even to the very
+sound of the clock--all unite in affecting, here, the heart of a
+British subject: every thing seems to tell him that, in former
+times, HERE was his country; here the residence of his sovereigns;
+and here the cradle of his manners. This was more than sufficient
+to enflame the lively imagination of Mr. D. and to decide him to
+visit, in person, a country already explored by a great number of
+his countrymen; but he conceived that his narrative should embody
+other topics than those which ordinarily appeared in the text of
+his predecessors.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;His work then is not only a description of
+castles, towns, churches, public monuments of every kind:--it is
+not only a representation of the general aspect of the country, as
+to its picturesque appearances-- but it is an extended, minute,
+though occasionally inexact, account of public and private
+libraries; with reflections upon certain customs of the country,
+and upon the character of those who inhabit it. It is in short the
+personal history of the author, throughout the whole length of his
+journey. Not the smallest incident, however indifferent, but what
+has a place in the letters of the Bibliographer. Thus, he mentions
+every Inn where he stops: recommends or scolds the landlord--
+according to his civility or exaction. Has the author passed a bad
+night? the reader is sure to know it on the following morning. On
+the other hand, has he had a good night&#39;s rest in a comfortable
+bed? [dans un lit <EM>comfortable</EM>?] We are as sure to know
+this also, as soon as he awakes:--and thus far we are relieved from
+anxiety about the health of the traveller. Cold and heat--fine
+weather and bad weather-- every variation of atmosphere is
+scrupulously recorded.</P>
+
+<P>What immediately follows, is unworthy of M. Licquet; because it
+not only implies a charge of a heinous description--accusing me of
+an insidious intrusion into domestic circles, a violation of
+confidence, and a systematic derision of persons and things--but
+because the French translator, exercising that sense and shrewdness
+which usually distinguish him, MUST have known that such a charge
+<EM>could</EM> not have been founded in FACT. He must have known
+that any gentleman, leaving England with those letters which
+brought me in contact with some of the first circles on the
+Continent, MUST have left it without leaving his character
+<EM>behind</EM> him; and that such a character could not, in the
+natural order of things-- seen even through the sensitive medium of
+a French critic--have been guilty of the grossness and
+improprieties imputed to me by M. Licquet. I treat therefore this
+&quot;damnation in wholesale&quot; with scorn and contempt: and
+hasten to impress the reader with a more favourable opinion of my
+Norman translator. He <EM>will</EM> have it that</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;the English Traveller&#39;s imagination is
+lively and ardent--and his spirit, that of raillery and lightness.
+He examines as he runs along; that is to say, he does not give
+himself time to examine; he examines ill; he deceives himself; and
+he subjects his readers to be deceived with him. He traverses, at a
+hard trot, one of the most ancient towns in France; puts his head
+out of his carriage window--and boldly decides that the town is of
+the time of Francis I.&quot;!<A name="fnref_9"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_9">9</A> p. xviij.</P>
+
+<P>There is pleasantry, and perhaps some little truth, in this vein
+of observation; and it had been better, perhaps, for the credit of
+the good taste and gentleman-like feeling of Mons. Licquet, if he
+had uniformly maintained his character in these respects. I have
+however, in the subsequent pages,<A name="fnref_10"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_10">10</A> occasionally grappled with my
+annotator in proving the fallacy, or the want of charity, of many
+of his animadversions: and the reader probably may not be
+displeased, if, by way of &quot;avant propos,&quot; I indulge him
+here with a specimen of them--taken from his preface. M. Licquet
+says, that I &quot;create scenes; arrange a drama; trace
+characters; imagine a dialogue, frequently in French--and in what
+French--gracious God!--in assigning to postilions a ridiculous
+language, and to men of the world the language of postilions.&quot;
+These be sharp words:<A name="fnref_11"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_11">11</A> but what does the Reader imagine may be the
+probable &quot;result&quot; of the English Traveller&#39;s
+inadvertencies?... A result, (&quot;gracious Heaven!&quot;) very
+little anticipated by the author. Let him ponder well upon the
+awful language which ensues. &quot;What (says M. Licquet) will
+quickly be the result, with us, of such indiscretions as those of
+which M. Dibdin is guilty? The necessity of SHUTTING OUR PORTS, or
+at least of placing a GUARD UPON OUR LIPS!&quot; There is some
+consolation however left for me, in balancing this tremendous
+denunciation by M. Licquet&#39;s eulogy of my good qualities--which
+a natural diffidence impels me to quote in the original words of
+their author.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;A Dieu ne plaise, toutefois, que
+j&#39;accuse ici LE COEUR de M. Dibdin. Je n&#39;ai jamais eu
+l&#39;honneur de le voir: je ne le connais que par ses ecrits;
+principalement par son <EM>Splendid Tour</EM>, et je ne balance pas
+à déclarer que l&#39;auteur doit être doué d&#39;une ame honnête,
+et de ces qualités fondamentales qui constituent l&#39;homme de
+bien. Il préfère sa croyance; mais il respecte la croyance des
+autres; son érudition parait....<A name="fnref_12"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_12">12</A> variée. Son amour pour les antiquités
+est immense; et par antiquités j&#39;entends ici tout ce qui est
+<EM>antique</EM> ou seulement <EM>ancien</EM>, quellesque soient
+d&#39;ailleurs la nature et la forme des objets.&quot; Pref. p. xv.
+xvij.</P>
+
+<P>Once more; and to conclude with M. Licquet. After these general
+observations upon the <EM>Text</EM> of the Tour, M. Licquet favours
+us with the following--upon the <EM>Plates</EM>. &quot;These plates
+(says he) are intended to represent some of the principal
+monuments; the most beautiful landscapes, and the most remarkable
+persons, comprehending even the servants of an inn. If
+<EM>talent</EM> be sought in these Engravings, it will doubtless be
+found in them; but strangers must not seek for <EM>fidelity</EM> of
+representation from what is before their eyes. The greater number
+of the Designs are, in some sort, ideal compositions, which, by
+resembling every thing, resemble nothing in particular: and it is
+worthy of remark that the Artist, in imitation of the Author, seems
+to have thought that he had only to shew himself <EM>clever</EM>,
+without troubling himself to be <EM>faithful</EM>.&quot; To this, I
+reply in the very words of M. Licquet himself: &quot;the decision
+is severe; luckily it is unjust.&quot; The only portions of the
+designs of their skilful author, which may be taxed with a tendency
+to extravagance, are the <EM>groups</EM>: which, when accompanied
+by views of landscapes, or of monuments, are probably too profusely
+indulged in; but the <EM>individuals</EM>, constituting those
+groups, belong precisely to the <EM>country</EM> in which they are
+represented. In the first and second volumes they are
+<EM>French</EM>; in the third they are <EM>Germans</EM>--all over.
+Will M. Licquet pretend to say that the churches, monasteries,
+streets, and buildings, with which the previous Edition of this
+Tour is so elaborately embellished, have the slightest tendency to
+IMAGINED SCENERY? If he do, his optics must be peculiarly his own.
+I have, in a subsequent page, (p. 34, note) slightly alluded to the
+cost and risk attendant on the Plates; but I may confidently
+affirm, from experience, that two thirds of the expense incurred
+would have secured the same sale at the same price. However, the
+die is cast; and the voice of lamentation is fruitless.</P>
+
+<P>I now come to the consideration of M. Licquet&#39;s coadjutor,
+M. CRAPELET. Although the line of conduct pursued by that very
+singular gentleman be of an infinitely more crooked description
+than that of his Predecessor, yet, in this place, I shall observe
+less respecting it; inasmuch as, in the subsequent pages, (pp. 209,
+245, 253, 400, &amp;c.) the version and annotations of M. Crapelet
+have been somewhat minutely discussed. Upon the SPIRIT which could
+give rise to such a version, and such annotations, I will here only
+observe, that it very much resembles that of searchers of our
+street-pavements; who, with long nails, scrape out the dirt from
+the interstices of the stones, with the hope of making a discovery
+of some lost treasure which may compensate the toil of
+perseverance. The love of lucre may, or may not, have influenced my
+Parisian translator; but the love of discovery of latent error, and
+of exposure of venial transgression, has undoubtedly, from
+beginning to end, excited his zeal and perseverance. That carping
+spirit, which shuts its eyes upon what is liberal and kind, and
+withholds its assent to what is honourable and just, it is the
+distinguished lot--and, perhaps, as the translator may imagine, the
+distinguished felicity--of M. Crapelet to possess. Never was
+greater reluctance displayed in admitting even the palpable truths
+of a text, than what is displayed in the notes of M. Crapelet: and
+whenever a concurring sentiment comes from him, it seems to exude
+like his heart&#39;s life-blood. Having already answered, in
+detail, his separate publication confined to my 30th Letter<A name=
+"fnref_13"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_13">13</A>--(the 8th of
+the second volume, in <EM>this</EM> edition) and having replied to
+those animadversions which appear in his translation of the whole
+of the second volume, in this edition--it remains here only to
+consign the Translator to the careful and impartial consideration
+of the Reader, who, it is requested, may be umpire between both
+parties. Not to admit that the text of this Edition is in many
+places improved, from the suggestions of my Translators, by
+corrections of &quot;Names of Persons, Places, and Things,&quot;
+would be to betray a stubbornness or obtuseness of feeling which
+certainly does not enter into the composition of its author.</P>
+
+<P>I now turn, not without some little anxiety, yet not wholly
+divested of the hope of a favourable issue, to the character and
+object of the Edition HERE presented to the Public. It will be
+evident, at first glance, that it is greatly &quot;shorn of its
+beams&quot; in regard to graphic decorations and typographical
+splendour. Yet its garb, if less costly, is not made of coarse
+materials: for it has been the wish and aim of the Publishers, that
+this impression should rank among books worthy of the DISTINGUISHED
+PRESS from which it issues. Nor is it unadorned by the sister art
+of <EM>Engraving</EM>; for, although on a reduced scale, some of
+the repeated plates may even dispute the palm of superiority with
+their predecessors. Several of the GROUPS, executed on
+<EM>copper</EM> in the preceding edition, have been executed on
+<EM>wood</EM> in the present; and it is for the learned in these
+matters to decide upon their relative merits. To have attempted
+portraits upon wood, would have inevitably led to failure. There
+are however, a few NEW PLATES, which cannot fail to elicit the
+Purchaser&#39;s particular attention. Of these, the portraits of
+the <EM>Abbé de la Rue</EM> (procured through the kind offices of
+my excellent friend Mr. Douce), and the <EM>Comte de Brienne</EM>,
+the <EM>Gold Medal of Louis XII</EM>. the <EM>Stone Pulpit of
+Strasbourg Cathedral,</EM> and the <EM>Prater near Vienna</EM>--are
+particularly to be noticed.<A name="fnref_14"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_14">14</A> This Edition has also another attraction,
+rather popular in the present day, which may add to its
+recommendation even with those possessed of its precursor. It
+contains fac- similes of the AUTOGRAPHS of several distinguished
+Literati and Artists upon the Continent;<A name="fnref_15"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_15">15</A> who, looking at the text of the
+work through a less jaundiced medium than the Parisian translator,
+have continued a correspondence with the Author, upon the most
+friendly terms, since its publication. The accuracy of these
+fac-similes must be admitted, even by the parties themselves, to be
+indisputable. Among them, are several, executed by hands.. which
+now CEASE to guide the pen! I had long and fondly hoped to have
+been gratified by increasing testimonies of the warmth of heart
+which had directed several of the pens in question--hoped ... even
+against the admonition of a pagan poet ...</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&quot;Vitae summa brevis SPEM nos vetat inchoare
+LONGAM.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>But such hopes are now irretrievably cut off; and the
+remembrance of the past must solace the anticipations of the
+future.</P>
+
+<P>So much respecting the <EM>decorative</EM> department of this
+new edition of the Tour. I have now to request the Reader&#39;s
+attention to a few points more immediately connected with what may
+be considered its <EM>intrinsic</EM> worth. In the first place, it
+may be pronounced to be an Edition both <EM>abridged</EM> and
+<EM>enlarged</EM>: abridged, as regards the lengthiness of
+description of many of the MSS. and Printed Books--and enlarged, as
+respects the addition, of many notes; partly of a controversial,
+and partly of an obituary, description. The &quot;Antiquarian and
+Picturesque&quot; portions remain nearly as heretofore; and upon
+the whole I doubt whether the amputation of matter has extended
+beyond <EM>an eighth</EM> of what appeared in the previous edition.
+It had long ago been suggested to me--from a quarter too high and
+respectable to doubt the wisdom of its decision--that the Contents
+of this Tour should be made known to the Public through a less
+costly medium:--that the objects described in it were, in a
+measure, new and interesting--but that the high price of the
+purchase rendered it, to the majority of Readers, an inaccessible
+publication. I hope that these objections are fully met, and
+successfully set aside, by the Work in its PRESENT FORM. To have
+produced it, <EM>wholly divested</EM> of ornament, would have been
+as foreign to my habits as repugnant to my feelings. I have
+therefore, as I would willingly conclude, hit upon the happy
+medium-- between sterility and excess of decoration.</P>
+
+<P>After all, the greater part of the ground here trodden, yet
+continues to be untrodden ground to the public. I am not acquainted
+with any publication which embraces all the objects here described;
+nor can I bring myself to think that a perusal of the first and
+third volumes may not be unattended with gratification of a
+peculiar description, to the lovers of antiquities and picturesque
+beauties. The second volume is rather the exclusive province of the
+Bibliographer. In retracing the steps here marked out, I will not
+be hypocrite enough to dissemble a sort of triumphant feeling which
+accompanies a retrospection of the time, labour, and money
+devoted.. in doing justice, according to my means, to the
+attractions and worth of the Countries which these pages describe.
+Every such effort is, in its way, a NATIONAL effort. Every such
+attempt unites, in stronger bonds, the reciprocities of a generous
+feeling between rival Nations; and if my reward has not been in
+<EM>wealth</EM>, it has been in the hearty commendation of the
+enlightened and the good: &quot;Mea me virtute involvo.&quot;<A
+name="fnref_16"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_16">16</A></P>
+
+<P>I cannot boast of the commendatory strains of public Journals in
+my own country. No intellectual steam-engine has been put in motion
+to manufacture a review of unqualified approbation of the Work now
+submitted to the public eye--at an expense, commensurate with the
+ordinary means of purchase. With the exception of an indirect and
+laudatory notice of it, in the immortal pages of the Author of
+Waverley, of the Sketch book, and of Reginald Dalton, this Tour has
+had to fight its way under the splendour of its own banners, and in
+the strength of its own cause. The previous Edition is now a scarce
+and a costly book. Its Successor has enough to recommend it, even
+to the most fastidious collector, from the elegance of its type and
+decorations, and from the reasonableness of its price; but the
+highest ambition of its author is, that it may be a part of the
+furniture of every Circulating Library in the Kingdom. If he were
+not conscious that GOOD would result from its perusal, he would not
+venture upon such an avowal. &quot;FELIX FAUSTUMQUE SIT!&quot;</P>
+
+<P class="spaced">&nbsp;</P>
+
+<H3 class="centered">BIBLIOGRAPHICAL<BR>
+Antiquarian<BR>
+AND<BR>
+PICTURESQUE TOUR.</H3>
+
+<P class="spaced">The Notes peculiar to THIS EDITION are
+distinguished by being inserted between brackets: as thus:--[]</P>
+
+<P>*** The Index is placed at the end of the First Volume, for the
+purpose of equalising the size of the Volumes.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:90%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/049.png" alt="DUKEDOM OF NORMANDIE"></DIV>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER I.</H3>
+
+<P>PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Dieppe, April 20, 1818.</EM></P>
+
+<P>At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected
+&quot;<EM>Bibliographical, Antiquarian</EM>,<A name=
+"fnref_17"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_17">17</A> and
+<EM>Picturesque Tour&quot;</EM> is carried into execution; and the
+Tourist is safely landed on the shores of Normandy. &quot;Vous
+voilà donc, Monsieur à Dieppe!&quot;--exclaimed the landlord of the
+Grand Hôtel d&#39;Angleterre--as I made my way through a
+vociferating crowd of old and young, of both sexes, with cards of
+addresses in their hands; entreating me to take up my abode at
+their respective hotels.... But I know your love of method, and
+that you will be angry with me if I do not &quot;begin at the
+beginning.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left
+my home, on the 14th of this present month, for the land of
+castles, churches, and ancient chivalry. The wind from the
+south-east was blowing pretty smartly at the time; but the sky was
+without a cloud, and I could not but look upon the brilliancy of
+every external object as a favourable omen of the progress and
+termination of my tour. Adverse winds, or the indolence or
+unwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole
+days-- instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day
+following our arrival. We were to form the first ship&#39;s company
+which had visited France this season. On approaching our gallant
+little bark, the <EM>Nancy</EM>,<A name="fnref_18"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_18">18</A> commanded by Captain BLABER, the
+anchor was weighed, and hoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day
+began to improve upon us. The gloomy appearances of the morning
+gradually brightened up. A host of black clouds rolled heavily
+away. The sun at length shone in his full meridian splendour, and
+the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves. As I
+supposed us to near the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain
+an early glimpse of something in the shape of cliff or jettie. But
+the wind continued determinedly in the south east: the waves rose
+in larger masses; and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of
+foam as we entered on the various tacks.</P>
+
+<P>It is a grand sight--that vast, and apparently interminable
+ocean--</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">.... maria undique et undique coelum!</P>
+
+<P>We darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French
+coast: and as the sun declined, we found it most prudent to put the
+Captain&#39;s advice, of going below, into execution. Then
+commenced all the miseries of the voyage. The moon had begun to
+assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture and pain in our
+respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over the
+deck, sky-light, and binnacle: and down came, in consequence,
+drenched with the briny wave, the hardiest of our crew, who, till
+then, had ventured to linger upon deck. That crew was various; and
+not without a few of the natives of those shores which we were
+about to visit.</P>
+
+<P>To cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only farther to say,
+that, towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw
+&quot;the lights of Dieppe&quot;--a joyful sound to us miserable
+wretches below. I well remember, at this moment, looking up towards
+the deck with a cheerless eye, and perceiving the light of the moon
+still lingering upon the main-sail,--but I shall never forget how
+much more powerfully my sensations were excited, when, as the dawn
+of day made objects visible, I looked up, and saw an old
+wrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on begirt with large
+blue, puckered, short petticoats--in possession of the helm--about
+to steer the vessel into harbour!<A name="fnref_19"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_19">19</A></P>
+
+<P>About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and
+agitated, and of a dingy colour: while</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">.... heavily with clouds came on the day,</P>
+
+<P>as we slowly approached the outward harbour of DIEPPE. A grey
+morning with drizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a
+first visit to a foreign shore. Nevertheless every thing was new,
+and strange, and striking; and the huge crucifix, to the right, did
+not fail to make a very forcible impression. As we approached the,
+inner harbour, the shipping and the buildings more distinctly
+presented themselves. The harbour is large, and the vessels are
+entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishing smacks:
+but the manner in which the latter harmonized with the tint and
+structure of the houses--the bustle upon shore--the casks, deal
+planks, ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays,--all
+formed a most animated and interesting scene. The population seemed
+countless, and chiefly females; whose high caps and enormous
+ear-rings, with the rest of their paraphernalia, half persuaded me
+that instead of being some few twenty-five leagues only from our
+own white cliffs, I had in fact dropt upon the Antipodes! What a
+scene (said I to my companion) for our CALCOTT to depict!<A name=
+"fnref_20"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_20">20</A> It was a full
+hour before we landed--saluted, and even assailed on all sides,
+with entreaties to come to certain hotels. We were not long however
+in fixing our residence at the <EM>Hotel d&#39;Angleterre,</EM> of
+which the worthy Mons. De La Rue<A name="fnref_21"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_21">21</A> is the landlord.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER II.</H3>
+
+<P>DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JAQUES AND ST. REMY.
+DIVINE WORSHIP. MILITARY MASS.</P>
+
+<P>The town of Dieppe contains a population of about
+twenty-thousand souls.<A name="fnref_22"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_22">22</A> Of these, by much the greater <EM>stationary</EM>
+part are females; arising from one third at least of the males
+being constantly engaged in the FISHERIES. As these fisheries are
+the main support of the inhabitants, it is right that you should
+know something about them. The <EM>herring</EM> fishery takes place
+twice a year: in August and October. The August fishery is carried
+on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty to eighty
+vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty tons burthen each, with
+about fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are
+freighted with salt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing
+the fish, and they return about the end of October. The herrings
+caught in August are considerably preferable to those caught in
+October. The October fishery is carried on with smaller vessels,
+along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre. From one hundred
+and twenty, to one hundred and thirty vessels, are engaged in this
+latter navigation; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferior
+flavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost
+entirely to the provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh. So
+much for the herring.<A name="fnref_23"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_23">23</A></P>
+
+<P>The <EM>Mackarel</EM> fishery usually commences towards the
+month of July, along the coast of Picardy; because, being a sort of
+fish of passage, it gets into the channel in the month of April. It
+then moves towards the straits of Dover, as summer approaches. For
+this fishery they make use of large decked-vessels, from twenty to
+fifty tons burthen, manned with from twelve to twenty men. There
+are however Dieppe boats employed in this fishery which go as far
+as the Scilly Islands and Ushant, towards the middle of April. They
+carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, which are
+afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior of
+France. The <EM>cod fishery</EM> is divided into the fresh and
+dried fish. The former continues from the beginning of February to
+the end of April--and the vessels employed, which go as far as
+Newfoundland, are two deckers, and from one hundred to one hundred
+and fifty tons burthen-- although, in fact, they rarely carry more
+than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. The dried-cod
+fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes; but it is essential
+that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is more
+cumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about
+the month of March or April, in order that they may have the
+advantage of the summer season, to dry the fish. There are vessels
+which go to Newfoundland laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle,
+linen and woollen cloths, which they dispose of to the inhabitants
+of the French colonies in exchange for dried cod. This latter
+species of commerce may be carried on in the summer months--as late
+as July.</P>
+
+<P>In the common markets for retail trade, they are not very nice
+in the quality or condition of their fish; and enormous conger
+eels, which would be instantly rejected by the middling, or even
+lower classes in England, are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and
+relished with glee. A few francs will procure a dish of fish large
+enough for a dozen people. The quays are constantly crowded, but
+there seems to be more of bustle than of business. The town is
+certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are very little
+more than a century old, and the streets are formal and
+comparatively wide. Indeed it should seem that the houses were
+built expressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are
+inhabited by tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans, in apparently very
+indifferent circumstances. I scarcely saw six private houses which
+could be called elegant, and not a gentleman&#39;s carriage has
+been yet noticed in the streets. But if the <EM>Dieppois</EM> are
+not rich, they seem happy, and are in a constant state of
+occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, or in an
+insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet (as indeed do all the
+tradesmen&#39;s wives), and works or sings as humour sways her. A
+man sells gingerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his
+customer&#39;s coming, reads some popular history or romance. Most
+of the upper windows are wholly destitute of glass; but are
+smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers. The fragrance
+emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote to odors
+of a very different description; and here we begin to have a too
+convincing proof of the general character of the country in regard
+to the want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a
+better-regulated police, would speedily get rid of such nuisances.
+The want of public sewers is another great and grievous cause of
+smells of every description. At Dieppe there are fountains in
+abundance; and if some of the limpid streams, which issue from
+them, were directed to cleansing the streets, (which are
+excellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious
+and pleasant--especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen.</P>
+
+<P>We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, when a loud and
+clattering sound was heard; and down came, in a heavy trot, with
+sundry ear-piercing crackings of the whip, the thundering
+<EM>Diligence</EM>: large, lofty, and of most unwieldy dimensions:
+of a structure, too, strong enough to carry a half score of
+elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly <EM>sui
+generis</EM>: gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms
+with himself. He wears the royal livery, red and blue; with a plate
+of the fleur de lis upon his left arm. His hair is tied behind, in
+a thick, short, tightly fastened queue: with powder and pomatum
+enough to weather a whole winter&#39;s storm and tempest.<A name=
+"fnref_24"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_24">24</A> As he never
+rises in his stirrups,<A name="fnref_25"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_25">25</A> I leave you to judge of the merciless effects of
+this ever-beating club upon the texture of his jacket. He is
+however fond of his horses: is well known by them; and there is all
+flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his treatment of
+them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions; such as we see
+sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. of the XVth
+century. He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind
+him. He sits upon the near of the two wheel horses, with three
+horses before him. His turnings are all adroitly and correctly
+made; and, upon the whole, he is a clever fellow in the exercise of
+his office.</P>
+
+<P>You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly
+celebrated for its manufactures in <EM>Ivory</EM>; but the present
+aspect of the ivory-market affords only a faint notion of what it
+might have been in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. I
+purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of a religious
+character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter of
+evidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerable
+manufacture of <EM>thread lace</EM>; and between three and four
+thousand females are supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by
+it.<A name="fnref_26"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_26">26</A></P>
+
+<P>My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly induced me to
+visit the CHURCHES; and I set out with two English gentlemen to pay
+our respects to the principal church, St. JAQUES. As we entered it,
+a general gloom prevailed, and a sort of premature evening came on;
+while the clatter of the sabots was sufficiently audible along the
+aisles. In making the circuit of the side chapels, an unusual light
+proceeded from a sort of grated door way. We approached, and
+witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet our attention. In
+what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several figures, cut
+in stone, and coloured after life, (of which they were the size)
+representing the <EM>Three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of
+Arimathea</EM>.. in the act of entombing Christ: the figure of our
+Saviour being half sunk into the tomb. The whole was partially
+illuminated by some two dozen of shabby and nearly consumed tallow
+candles; affording a striking contrast to the increasing darkness
+of the nave and the side aisles. We retired, more and more struck
+with the novelty of every object around us, to our supper and beds,
+which were excellent; and a good night&#39;s rest made me forget
+the miseries of the preceding evening.</P>
+
+<P>The next morning, being Sunday, we betook ourselves in good time
+to the service of ST. JAQUES:<A name="fnref_27"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_27">27</A> but on our way thither, we saw a waxen
+figure of Christ (usually called an &quot;Ecce Homo&quot;) enclosed
+within a box, of which the doors were opened. The figure and box
+are the property of the man who plays on a violin, close to the
+box; and who is selling little mass books, supposed to be rendered
+more sacred by having been passed across the feet and hands of the
+waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motley group,
+must strike you with astonishment--as a Sunday morning&#39;s
+recreation.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:70%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/061.png" alt="Scene"></DIV>
+
+<P>By half past ten the congregation had assembled within the
+Church; and every side-chapel (I think about twelve in number)
+began to be filled by the penitent flocks: each bringing, or
+hiring, a rush-bottomed chair--with which the churches are pretty
+liberally furnished, and of which the <EM>Tarif</EM> (or terms of
+hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure, full
+eighteen women to one man: which may in part be accounted for, by
+the almost uniform absence of a third of the male population
+occupied in the fisheries. I think there could not have been fewer
+than two thousand souls present. But what struck me as the most
+ludicrously solemn thing I had ever beheld, was a huge tall figure,
+dressed like a drum-major, with a large cocked hat and three white
+plumes, (the only covered male figure in the congregation,) a broad
+white sash upon a complete suit of red, including red
+stockings;--representing what in our country is called a
+<EM>Beadle</EM>. He was a sturdy, grim-looking fellow; bearing an
+halberd in his right hand, which he wielded with a sort of pompous
+swing, infusing terror into the young, and commanding the
+admiration of the old. I must not, however, omit to inform you,
+that half the service was scarcely performed when the preacher
+mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermon from
+a printed book. I shall long have a distinct recollection of the
+figure and attitude of the <EM>Verger</EM> who attended the
+preacher. He followed him to the pulpit, fastened the door, became
+stationary, and rested his left arm over the railings of the
+stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff-box with his right hand, and
+regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the most joyous and
+comfortably-abstracted manner imaginable. There he remained till
+the conclusion of the discourse; not one word of which seemed to
+afford him half the satisfaction as did the contents of his
+snuff-box.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Military Mass</EM> was performed about an hour after, at the
+church of ST. REMY, whither I strolled quietly, to witness the
+devotion of the congregation previous to the entry of the soldiers;
+and I will not dissemble being much struck and gratified by what I
+saw. There was more simplicity: a smaller congregation: softer
+music: a lower-toned organ; less rush of people; and in very many
+of the flock the most intense and unfeigned expression of piety. At
+the elevation of the host, from the end of the choir, (near which
+was suspended a white flag with the portrait of the present King<A
+name="fnref_28"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_28">28</A> upon it)
+a bell was rung from the tower of the church; the sound, below, was
+soft and silver-toned--accompanied by rather a quick movement on
+the organ, upon the diapason stop; which, united with the silence
+and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded the
+reverence of the most profane.</P>
+
+<P>There is nothing, my dear friend, more gratifying, in a foreign
+land, than the general appearance of earnestness of devotion on a
+sabbath day; especially within the HOUSE OF GOD. However, I quickly
+heard the clangor of the trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured
+tramp of human feet, and up marched two or three troops of the
+national guard to perform military mass. I retired precipitately to
+the Inn, being well pleased to have escaped this strange and
+distracting sight: so little in harmony with the rites and
+ceremonies of our own church, and in truth so little accordant with
+the service which I had just beheld.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER III.</H3>
+
+<P>VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSEMENTS. MANNERS AND
+CUSTOMS. BOULEVARDS.</P>
+
+<P>As I had received especial injunctions from our friend P--- not
+to leave Dieppe without paying a visit to the famous <EM>Chateau
+d&#39; Arques</EM><A name="fnref_29"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_29">29</A>, in its neighbourhood, I resolved to seize the
+opportunity of a tolerably fair, or rather gray-looking day, to go
+and pay due homage to those venerable remains of antiquity. The
+road thither is completely rural: apple-trees, just beginning to
+burst their blossoms; hamlets, small farm- houses: a profusion of
+rich herbage of various kinds--delighted and regaled me as I
+pursued my tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating
+character; but the flats or meadows, between the parallel ranges of
+hills, are subject to constant inundation from the sea; and in an
+agricultural point of view are consequently of little use, except
+for summer grazing of the cattle.</P>
+
+<P>It was drawing on to vespers as I approached the <EM>Village of
+Arques</EM>. The old castle had frequently peeped out upon me, in
+my way thither, from its elevated situation; but being resolved to
+see &quot;all that could be seen,&quot; a French village, for the
+first time, was not to be overlooked. For a country church, I know
+of few finer ones than that of Arques.<A name="fnref_30"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_30">30</A></P>
+
+<P>The site of the castle is admirable. My approach was to the
+western extremity; which, as you look down, brings the village and
+church of Arques in the back ground. If the eye were to be
+considered as a correct judge, this venerable pile, composed of
+hard flint-stone, intermixed with brick, would perhaps claim
+precedence, on the score of antiquity, over most of the castles of
+the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a bold
+acclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of
+old, to the foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular
+towers at the extremities, and a square citadel or donjon within.
+To the north, a good deal of earth has been recently thrown against
+the bases of the wall. The day harmonised admirably with the
+venerable object before me. The sunshine lasted but for a minute:
+when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not a single catch of
+radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All was quiet,
+and of a sombre aspect,--and what <EM>you</EM>, in your admiration
+of art, would call in perfectly &quot;fine keeping.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>I descended the hill, bidding a long adieu to this venerable
+relic of the hardihood of other times, and quickened my pace
+towards Dieppe. In gaining upon the town, I began to discern groups
+of rustics, as well as of bourgeoises, assembling and mingling in
+the dance. The women never think of wearing bonnets, and you have
+little idea how picturesquely the red and blue<A name=
+"fnref_31"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_31">31</A> (the colours
+of Raffaelle&#39;s Madonnas) glanced backwards and forwards amidst
+the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit-stirring violin. The
+high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gave the
+finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and
+to their credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily
+dressed than the men. The couples are frequently female, for want
+of a sufficient number of swains; but, whether correctly or
+incorrectly paired, they dance with earnestness, if not with grace.
+It was a picture à la Teniers, without its occasional grossness.
+This then, said I to myself, is what I have so often heard of the
+sabbath-gambols of the French--and long may they enjoy them! They
+are surely better than the brutal orgies of the pot-house, or the
+fanatical ravings of the tabernacle.<A name="fnref_32"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_32">32</A></P>
+
+<P>A late plain dinner, with my favourite vin ordinaire, recruited
+my strength, and kept me in perfectly good humour with Dieppe.</P>
+
+<P>The deportment of the <EM>Dieppois</EM><A name="fnref_33"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_33">33</A> towards the English, is, upon
+the whole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits
+by the liberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young
+ones, as soon as they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing
+the <EM>G---- d----</EM> ; and a few horribly-deformed and
+importunate beggars are for ever assailing the doors of the hotels.
+But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil as I had
+anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate the
+poverty of the inhabitants; their houses being too large to be
+entirely occupied. Bonaparte appears to have been anxious about the
+strengthening of the harbour; the navigation into which is somewhat
+difficult and intricate. The sides of the walls, as you enter, are
+lofty, steep, and strong; and raised batteries would render any
+hostile approach extremely hazardous to the assailants.</P>
+
+<P>There is no ship-building at this moment going on: the ribs of
+about half a dozen, half rotted, small merchant-craft, being all
+that is discernible. But much is projected, and much is hoped from
+such projects. Dieppe has questionless many local advantages both
+by land and by sea; yet it will require a long course of years to
+infuse confidence and beget a love of enterprise. In spite of all
+the <EM>naval zeal</EM>, it is here exhibited chiefly as affording
+means of subsistence from the fisheries. I must not however
+conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far
+and near for a good bookseller and for some old books--but found
+nothing worth the search, except a well-printed early <EM>Rouen
+Missal</EM>, and <EM>Terence</EM> by <EM>Badius Ascensius</EM>. The
+booksellers are supplied with books chiefly from Rouen; the local
+press being too insignificant to mention.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER IV.</H3>
+
+<P>ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY.</P>
+
+<P>Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary
+city in the world. One rubs one&#39;s eyes, and fancies one is
+dreaming, upon being carried through the streets of this
+old-fashioned place: or that, by some secret talismanic touch, we
+are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objects of art, at
+the commencement of the sixteenth century: so very curious, and out
+of the common appearance of things, is almost every object
+connected with ROUEN. But before I commence my observations upon
+the <EM>town</EM>, I must give you a brief sketch of my
+<EM>journey</EM> hither. We had bespoke our places in the cabriolet
+of the Diligence, which just holds three tolerably comfortable;
+provided there be a disposition to accommodate each other. This
+cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, or
+phaeton seat, with a covering of leather in the front of the coach.
+It is fortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which
+is a piece of iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by
+means of a hook on the perpendicular supporter of the head. There
+are stiffish leathern curtains on each side, to be drawn, if
+necessary, as a protection against the rain, &amp;c. You lean upon
+the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no very
+uncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on
+the 4th day after our arrival there. As we were seated in the
+cabriolet, we could hardly refrain from loud laughter at the
+novelty of our situation, and the grotesqueness of the conveyance.
+Our Postilion was a rare specimen of his species, and a perfectly
+<EM>unique copy</EM>. He fancied himself, I suppose, rather getting
+&quot;into the vale of years,&quot; and had contrived to tinge his
+cheeks with a plentiful portion of rouge.<A name="fnref_34"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_34">34</A> His platted and powdered hair
+was surmounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded
+ribband: his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his
+order (the royal arms) upon his left arm. What struck me as not a
+little singular, was, that his countenance was no very faint
+resemblance of that of <EM>Voltaire</EM>, when he might have been
+verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly he resembled him
+in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of his mouth.
+We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, and
+sometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through
+which we were compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of
+<EM>cord</EM>; which, however keep together pretty well. The
+postilion endeavours to break the rapidity of the descent by
+conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel or rubbish, which
+are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that, to
+those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process,
+the effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop
+little in changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well
+managed, and in general no accidents occur.</P>
+
+<P>The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent
+condition. There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees
+afford a sufficient line of demarkation. The country is open, and
+gently undulating; with scarcely any glimpses of what is called
+forest-scenery, till you get towards the conclusion of the first
+stage. Nothing particularly strikes you till you approach
+<EM>Malaunai</EM>, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and of
+course after the last change of horses. The environs of this
+beautiful village repay you for every species of disappointment, if
+any should have been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk
+serpentine trout stream are studded with white houses, in which are
+cotton manufactories that appear to be carried on with spirit and
+success. Above these houses are hanging woods; and though the early
+spring would scarcely have coated the branches with green in our
+own country, yet <EM>here</EM> there was a general freshness of
+verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple;
+altogether rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally
+there were delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an
+Englishman would have embellished to every possible degree of
+advantage. But wealth, for the gratification of picturesque taste,
+is a superfluity that will not quickly fall to the lot of the
+French. The Revolution seems to have drained their purses, as well
+as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road- side there
+were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptied
+cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, where
+Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the
+vistas, and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles,
+and numerous riding and walking groups, increased upon us; and
+every thing announced that we were approaching a <EM>great and
+populous city</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>The approach to ROUEN is indeed magnificent. I speak of the
+immediate approach; after you reach the top of a considerable rise,
+and are stopped by the barriers. You then look down a strait,
+broad, and strongly paved road, lined with a double row of trees on
+each side. As the foliage was not thickly set, we could discern,
+through the delicately-clothed branches, the tapering spire of the
+CATHEDRAL, and the more picturesque tower of the ABBAYE ST.
+OUEN--with hanging gardens, and white houses, to the left--
+covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink as it were
+into the <EM>Boulevards</EM>, and which is called the <EM>Faubourg
+Cauchoise</EM>. To the right, through the trees, you see the river
+SEINE (here of no despicable depth or breadth) covered with boats
+and vessels in motion: the voice of commerce, and the stir of
+industry, cheering and animating you as you approach the town. I
+was told that almost every vessel which I saw (some of them of two
+hundred, and even of three hundred tons burthen) was filled with
+brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of long
+ropes, across the road; and the whole scene is of a truly novel and
+imposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what I
+experienced, as, turning to the left, and leaving the broader
+streets which flank the quay, I began to enter the
+<EM>penetralia</EM> of this truly antiquated town? What narrow
+streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre, capricious
+ornaments! What a mixture of modern with ancient art! What
+fragments, or rather ruins, of old delicately-built Gothic
+churches! What signs of former and of modern devastation! What
+fountains, gutters, groups of never-ceasing men, women, and
+children, all gay, all occupied, and all apparently happy! The
+<EM>Rue de la Grosse Horloge</EM> (so called from a huge, clumsy,
+antiquated clock which goes across it) struck me as being not among
+the least singular streets of Rouen. In five minutes I was within
+the court-yard of the <EM>Hôtel Vatel</EM>, the favourite residence
+of the English.</P>
+
+<P>It was evening when I arrived, in company with three Englishmen.
+We were soon saluted by the <EM>laquais de place</EM>--the
+leech-like hangers-on of every hotel--who begged to know if we
+would walk upon the Boulevards. We consented; turned to the right;
+and, gradually rising, gained a considerable eminence. Again we
+turned to the right, walking upon a raised promenade; while the
+blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundred walled
+gardens, perfumed the air with a delicious fragrance. As we
+continued our route along the <EM>Boulevard Beauvoisine</EM>, we
+gained one of the most interesting and commanding views imaginable
+of the city of Rouen--just at that moment lighted up by the golden
+rays of a glorious sun- set--which gave a breadth and a mellower
+tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen.
+The situation of Rouen renders it necessarily picturesque, view it
+from what spot you will.</P>
+
+<P>The population of Rouen is supposed to be full one hundred
+thousand souls. In truth, there is no end to the succession of
+human beings. They swarm like bees, and like bees are busy in
+bringing home the produce of their industry. You have all the
+bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill; only that the
+ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half as broad.
+Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-street,--and yet
+you cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen: filled with the
+flaunting cauchoise, and echoing to the eternal tramp of the sabot.
+There they are; men, women, and children--all abroad in the very
+centre of the streets: alternately encountering the splashing of
+the gutter, and the jostling of their townsmen--while the swift
+cabriolet, or the slow-paced cart, or the thundering
+<EM>Diligence</EM>, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only
+that they may seem to be yet more condensely united. For myself, it
+is with difficulty I believe that I am not living in the times of
+our Henry VIII. and of their Francis I.; and am half disposed to
+inquire after the residence of <EM>Guillaume Tailleur</EM> the
+printer--the associate, or foreign agent of your favourite
+<EM>Pynson</EM>.<A name="fnref_35"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_35">35</A></P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER V.</H3>
+
+<P>ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS
+CEREMONIES. THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST.
+VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN, ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL.</P>
+
+<P>I have now made myself pretty well acquainted with the geography
+of Rouen. How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a
+satisfactory, description of it? It cannot be done. You love old
+churches, old books, and relics of ancient art. These be my themes,
+therefore: so fancy yourself either strolling leisurely with me,
+arm in arm, in the streets--or sitting at my elbow. First for THE
+CATHEDRAL:--for what traveller of taste does not doff his bonnet to
+the <EM>Mother Church</EM> of the town through which he happens to
+be travelling--or in which he takes up a temporary abode? The west-
+front,<A name="fnref_36"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_36">36</A>
+always the <EM>forte</EM> of the architect&#39;s skill, strikes you
+as you go down, or come up, the principal street--<EM>La Rue des
+Carmes</EM>,-- which seems to bisect the town into equal parts. A
+small open space, (which however has been miserably encroached upon
+by petty shops) called the <EM>Flower-garden</EM>, is before this
+western front; so that it has some little breathing room in which
+to expand its beauties to the wondering eyes of the beholder. In my
+poor judgment, this western front has very few elevations
+comparable with it<A name="fnref_37"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_37">37</A>--including even those of <EM>Lincoln</EM> and
+<EM>York</EM>. The ornaments, especially upon the three porches,
+between the two towers, are numerous, rich, and for the greater
+part entire:--in spite of the Calvinists,<A name="fnref_38"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_38">38</A> the French revolution, and time.
+Among the lower and smaller basso-relievos upon these porches, is
+the subject of the daughter of Herodias dancing before Herod. She
+is manoeuvering on her hands, her feet being upwards. To the right,
+the decapitation of St. John is taking place.</P>
+
+<P>The southern transept makes amends for the defects of the
+northern. The space before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable
+market: curious old houses encircle this space: and the ascent to
+the door, but more especially the curiously sculptured porch
+itself, with the open spaces in the upper part--light, fanciful and
+striking to a degree--produce an effect as pleasing as it is
+extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of devotees,
+going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the frittered
+ornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour and
+activity of devotion is almost equal to that of business.<A name=
+"fnref_39"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_39">39</A></P>
+
+<P>As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending
+two steps, you are struck with the length and loftiness of the
+nave, and with the lightness of the gallery which runs along the
+upper part of it. Perhaps the nave is too narrow for its length.
+The lantern of the central large tower is beautifully light and
+striking. It is supported by four massive clustered pillars, about
+forty feet in circumference;<A name="fnref_40"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_40">40</A> but on casting your eye downwards, you are
+shocked at the tasteless division of the choir from the nave by
+what is called a <EM>Grecian screen</EM>: and the interior of the
+transepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose
+windows of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave,
+merit your attention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing,
+to the right, upon entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the
+cathedral: of a date, little less ancient than that of the northern
+tower; and perhaps of the end of the twelfth century. It contains
+by much the finest specimens of stained glass--of the early part of
+the XVIth century. There is also some beautiful stained glass on
+each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,<A name="fnref_41"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_41">41</A> behind the choir; but although
+very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being composed of
+groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost all
+the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been
+made among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the
+Revolutionists.<A name="fnref_42"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_42">42</A></P>
+
+<P>Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous
+ROLLO lies in one of the side-chapels, farther down to the right,
+upon entering; although his monument cannot be older than the
+thirteenth century. My attachment to the bibliomanical celebrity of
+JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, will naturally lead me to the notice of his
+interment and monumental inscription. The latter is thus;</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Ad dextrum Altaris Latus</EM><BR>
+<BR>
+ <EM>Jacet</EM><BR>
+<BR>
+ IOANNES DUX BETFORDI<BR>
+<BR>
+ <EM>Normanniæ pro Rex</EM><BR>
+<BR>
+ <EM>Obiit Anno</EM><BR>
+<BR>
+ MCCCCXXXV.</P>
+
+<P>The Duke&#39;s tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford&#39;s
+Genealogical History,<A name="fnref_43"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_43">43</A> p. 314; which plate, in fact, is the identical one
+used by Ducarel; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate
+his Anglo-Norman Antiquities without any expense to himself!<A
+name="fnref_44"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_44">44</A></P>
+
+<P>There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye&#39;s <EM>Histoire de
+l&#39;Eglise Cathedrale de Rouen</EM>, p. 203, respecting the
+Duke&#39;s taking the habit of a canon of the cathedral. He
+attended, with his first wife, ANNE OF BURGUNDY, and threw himself
+upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received by
+them as one of their order: &quot;il les prioit d&#39;être receu
+parmy eux comme un de leurs frères, et d&#39;avoir tous les jours
+distribution de pain et de vin, et pour marque de fraternité
+d&#39;être vétu du surplis et de l&#39;aumusse: comme aussi
+d&#39;être associé, luy et sa très généreuse et très illustre
+épouse, aux suffrages de leur compagnie, et à la participation de
+tous les biens qu&#39;il plaira à Dieu leur donner la grace
+d&#39;opérer,&quot; p. 204. A grand procession marked the day of
+the Duke&#39;s admission into the monkish fraternity. The whole of
+this, with an account of the Duke&#39;s superb presents to the
+sacristy, his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion
+of &quot;eight loaves and four gallons of wine,&quot; are
+distinctly narrated by the minute Pommeraye.</P>
+
+<P>As you approach the <EM>Chapel of the Virgin</EM>, you pass by
+an ancient monument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing
+behind a thin pillar, within a pretty ornamented Gothic arch.<A
+name="fnref_45"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_45">45</A> To the
+eye of a tasteful antiquary this cannot fail to have its due
+attraction. While however we are treading upon hallowed ground,
+rendered if possible more sacred by the ashes of the illustrious
+dead, let us move gently onwards towards the <EM>Chapel of the
+Virgin</EM>, behind the choir. See, what bold and brilliant
+monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar! How
+gracefully they kneel and how devoutly they pray! They are the
+figures of the CARDINALS D&#39;AMBOISE--uncle and nephew:--the
+former, minister of Louis XII.<A name="fnref_46"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_46">46</A> and (what does not necessarily follow,
+but what gives him as high a claim upon the gratitude of posterity)
+the restorer and beautifier of the glorious building in which you
+are contemplating his figure. This splendid monument is entirely of
+black and white marble, of the early part of the sixteenth century.
+The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneeling upon
+cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fretwork. They are in
+their professional robes; their heads are bare, exhibiting the
+tonsure, with the hair in one large curl behind. A small
+whole-length figure of <EM>St. George</EM>, their tutelary saint,
+is below them, in gilded marble: and the whole base, or lower
+frieze, of the monument, is surrounded by six delicately sculptured
+females, about three feet high, emblematic of the virtues for which
+these cardinals were so eminently distinguished. These figures,
+representing Faith, Charity, Prudence, Force, Justice, and
+Temperance, are flanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved
+niches; while, above them, are the twelve Apostles, not less
+beautifully executed.<A name="fnref_47"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_47">47</A></P>
+
+<P>On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and
+liberality--and with one&#39;s mind deeply intent upon the
+characters of the deceased--let us fancy we hear the sound of the
+GREAT BELL from the south-west tower ... called the <EM>Amboise
+Tower</EM> ... erected, both the bell and the tower, by the uncle
+and minister AMBOISE. Know, my dear friend, that there was
+<EM>once</EM> a bell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which
+used to send forth its sound, for three successive centuries, from
+the said tower. This bell was broken about thirty years ago, and
+destroyed in the ravages of the immediately succeeding years.<A
+name="fnref_48"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_48">48</A> The
+south-west tower remains, and the upper part of the central tower,
+with the whole of the lofty wooden spire:--the fruits of the
+liberality of the excellent men of whom such honourable mention has
+been made. Considering that this spire is very lofty, and composed
+of wood, <EM>it is surprising that it has not been destroyed by
+tempest, or by lightning</EM>.<A name="fnref_49"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_49">49</A> The taste of it is rather capricious
+than beautiful.</P>
+
+<P>I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only
+commenced the account of them.<A name="fnref_50"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_50">50</A> Examine yonder recumbent figure, to
+the left of the altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I
+have just been dilating. It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly
+expression of countenance, representing the moment when the last
+breath has escaped from the body. It is the figure of the Grand
+SENESCHAL DE BREZE,<A name="fnref_51"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_51">51</A>--Governor of Rouen, and husband of the celebrated
+DIANE DE POICTIERS--that thus claims our attention. This figure is
+quite naked, lying upon its back, with the right hand placed on the
+stomach, but in an action which indicates <EM>life</EM>-- and
+therefore it is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned; for the
+head being fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly
+expression of countenance--indicating that some time has elapsed
+since it breathed its last--the hand could not rest in this
+position. The cenotaph is of black marble, disfigured by the names
+of idle visitors who choose to leave such impertinent memorials
+behind. The famous GOUJON is supposed to be the sculptor of the
+figure, which is painfully clever, but it strikes me as being too
+small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong and
+fleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the
+countenance. Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and lifeless,
+there is another and a very clever representation of him, on a
+smaller scale, on horseback.</P>
+
+<P>On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious
+injury) are two females in white marble; one representing the
+VIRGIN, and the other DIANE DE POICTIERS:<A name="fnref_52"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_52">52</A> they are little more than half
+the size of life. The whole is in the very best style of the
+sculpture of the time of Francis I. These precious specimens of
+art, as well as several other similar remains, were carried away
+during the revolution, to a place of safety. The choir is spacious,
+and well adapted to its purposes; but who does not grieve to see
+the Archbishop&#39;s stall, once the most curious and costly, of
+the Gothic order, and executed at the end of the XVth century,
+transformed into a stately common-place canopy, supported by
+columns of chestnut-wood carved in the Grecian style? The LIBRARY,
+which used to terminate the north transept, is--not gone--but
+transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with an appropriate
+inscription,<A name="fnref_53"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_53">53</A> yet attest that it was formerly an appendage to
+that part of the edifice.</P>
+
+<P>Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to
+tell you something relating to the rites performed therein. Let us
+quit therefore the dead for the living. Of course we saw, here, a
+repetition of the ceremonies observed at Dieppe; but previously to
+the feast of the <EM>Ascension</EM> we were also present at the
+confirmation of three hundred boys and three hundred girls, each
+very neatly and appropriately dressed, in a sort of sabbath attire,
+and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand. The girls were
+dressed in white, with white veils; and the rich lent veils to
+those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral,
+especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair,
+stood up, and gazed as earnestly as the rest. The interest excited
+among the parents, and especially the mothers, was very striking.
+&quot;Voila la petite-- qu&#39;elle a l&#39;air charmant!--le petit
+ange!&quot;....A stir is made ... they rise ... and approach, in
+the most measured order, the rails of the choir ... There they
+deposit their tapers. The priests, very numerous, extinguish them
+as dexterously as they can; and the whole cathedral is perfumed
+with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on
+approaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel down; then
+shut their eyes, open their mouths; and the priests deposit the
+consecrated wafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a
+different direction. They all went into the nave, where a sermon
+was preached to the young people, expressly upon the occasion, by a
+Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of the cathedral, and a preacher of
+considerable popularity. He had one of the most meagre and
+forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was black and
+unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently:
+making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left
+arm--and displaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner,
+wholly exempt from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and
+feelings of his youthful audience. His subject was &quot;belief in
+Christ Jesus;&quot; on which he gave very excellent proofs and
+evidences. His voice was thin, but clear, and distinctly heard.</P>
+
+<P>And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this détour
+of the CATHEDRAL, suppose we take a promenade to the next most
+important ecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you
+therefore to a stroll to the ABBEY of ST. OUEN?
+&quot;Willingly,&quot; methinks I hear you reply. To the abbey
+therefore let us go.</P>
+
+<P>Leaving the Cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured
+fountain (of the early time of Francis I.) which stands at the
+corner of a street, to the right; and which, from its central
+situation, is visited the live-long day for the sake of its limpid
+waters. Push on a little further; then, turning to the right, you
+get into a sort of square, and observe the ABBEY--or rather the
+<EM>west-front</EM> of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are
+first struck with its matchless window: call it rose, or marygold,
+as you please. I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this
+window is perfectly unrivalled. There is a play of line in the
+mullions, which, considering their size and strength, may be
+pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You approach, regretting
+the neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter, through the
+large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the Abbey. It
+was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening
+was beautiful; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted
+through the stained glass of the window, just noticed, were
+perfectly enchanting. The window itself, as you look upwards, or
+rather as you fix your eye upon the centre of it, from the remote
+end of the Abbey, or the <EM>Lady&#39;s Chapel</EM>, was a perfect
+blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemed
+magically illumined ...</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Seemed all on fire--within, around;<BR>
+ Deep sacristy and altar&#39;s pale;<BR>
+ Shone every pillar foliage-bound....</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Lay of the Last Minstrel</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>We declared instinctively that the ABBEY OF ST. OUEN could
+hardly have a rival;--certainly not a superior.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:70%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/093.png" alt="Chapel"></DIV>
+
+<P>As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel
+and recess was rendered doubly impressive by the devotion of
+numerous straggling supplicants; and invocations to the presiding
+spirit of the place, reached the ears and touched the hearts of the
+bystanders. The grand western entrance presents you with the most
+perfect view of the choir--a magical circle, or rather
+oval--flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and free from the
+surrounding obstruction of screens, &amp;c. Nothing more airy and
+more captivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and
+delicacy of these pillars are quite surprising. Above, below,
+around--every thing is in the purest style of the XIVth and XVth
+centuries. The central tower is a tower of beauty as well as of
+strength. Yet in regard to further details, connected with the
+interior, it must be admitted that there is very little more which
+is deserving of particular description; except it be <EM>the
+gallery</EM>, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir,
+and which is considerably more light and elegant than that of the
+cathedral. A great deal has been said about the circular windows at
+the end of the south transept, and they are undoubtedly elegant:
+but compared with the one at the extremity of the nave, they are
+rather to be noticed from the tale attached to them, than from
+their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, is briefly this. These
+windows were finished (as well as the larger one at the west front)
+about the year 1439. One of them was executed by the master- mason,
+the other by his apprentice; and on being criticised by competent
+judges, the performance of the <EM>latter</EM> was said to eclipse
+that of the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and
+revengeful, and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course
+tried, condemned, and executed; but an existing monument to his
+memory attests the humanity of the monks in giving him Christian
+interment.<A name="fnref_54"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_54">54</A> On the whole, it is the absence of all obtrusive
+and unappropriate ornament which gives to the interior of this
+building that light, unencumbered, and faery-like effect which so
+peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that I
+never remember to have felt within any other similar edifice.</P>
+
+<P>Let me however put in a word for the <EM>Organ</EM>. It is
+immense, and perhaps larger than that belonging to the Cathedral.
+The tin pipes (like those of the organ in the Cathedral) are of
+their natural colour. I paced the pavement beneath, and think that
+this organ cannot be short of forty English feet in length. Indeed,
+in all the churches which I have yet seen, the organs strike me as
+being of magnificent dimensions.</P>
+
+<P>You should be informed however that the extreme length of the
+interior, from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its
+opposite western extremity, is about four hundred and fifty English
+feet; while the height, from the pavement to the roof of the nave,
+or the choir, is one hundred and eight English feet. The transepts
+are about one hundred and forty feet in length. The central tower,
+upon the whole, is not only the grandest tower in Rouen, but there
+is nothing for its size in our own country that can compare with
+it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof of the
+church; and is supported below, or rather within, by four
+magnificent cluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in
+circumference. Its area, at bottom, can hardly be less than
+thirty-six feet square. The choir is flanked by flying buttresses,
+which have a double tier of small arches, altogether
+&quot;marvellous and curious to behold.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>I could not resist stealing quietly round to the porch of the
+<EM>south transept</EM>, and witnessing, in that porch, one of the
+most chaste, light, and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture,
+which can be contemplated. Indeed, I hardly know any thing like
+it.<A name="fnref_55"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_55">55</A> The
+leaves of the poplar and ash were beginning to mantle the exterior;
+and, seen through their green and gay lattice work, the traceries
+of the porch seemed to assume a more interesting aspect. They are
+now mending the upper part of the façade with new stone of peculiar
+excellence--but it does not harmonise with the old work. They merit
+our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remains of this
+precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern and north-
+eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded with
+promenades and trees: so that, occasionally, either when walking,
+or sitting upon the benches, within these gardens, you catch one of
+the finest views imaginable of the abbey.</P>
+
+<P>At this early season of the year, much company is assembled
+every evening in these walks: while, in front of the abbey, or in
+the square facing the western end, the national guard is exercised
+in the day time--and troops of fair nymphs and willing youths
+mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening, while a platform is
+erected for the instrumental performers, and for the exhibition of
+feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouen without
+being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to
+&quot;make revel&quot; within the Abbot&#39;s house. Henry II,
+Charles IX, and Henry III, each took a fancy to this spot--but
+especially the famous HENRI QUATRE. It is reported that that
+monarch sojourned here for four months--- and his reply to the
+address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved both
+in MS. and by engravings. &quot;The King having arrived at St. Ouen
+(says an old MS.)<A name="fnref_56"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_56">56</A> the keys of the tower were presented to him, in the
+presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a
+velvet- cushion. The keys were gilt. The King took them, and
+replacing them in the hands of the governor, said--&quot;Mon
+cousin, je vous les baille pour les rendre, qu&#39;ils les
+gardent;&quot;--then, addressing the aldermen, he added,
+&quot;Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le
+meilleur Roi que vous ayez jamais eu.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, &quot;go by all means and see the
+church <EM>St. Maclou</EM>&quot;--say your friends and your guides.
+The Abbé Turquier accompanied me thither. The great beauties of St.
+Maclou are its tower and its porch. Of the tower, little more than
+the lantern remains. This is about 160 English feet in height.
+Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet in height,
+constructed of wood and lead--but which has been nearly destroyed
+for the sake of the lead,--for the purpose of slaughter or
+resistance during the late revolution.<A name="fnref_57"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_57">57</A> The exteriors of the porches are
+remarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the
+<EM>Rue Martainville.</EM> They are highly praised by the
+inhabitants, and are supposed to be after the models of the famous
+Goujon. Perhaps they are rather encumbered with ornament, and want
+that quiet effect, and pure good taste, which we see in the porches
+of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen. However, let critics
+determine as they will upon this point--they must at least unite in
+reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate pieces
+of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of
+staring yellow ochre!</P>
+
+<P>Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four: two of
+them chiefly remarkable for their interior, and two for their
+extreme antiquity. Of the two former, that of <EM>St. Vincent</EM>
+presents you with a noble organ, with a light choir profusely
+gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent taste. But the
+stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich,
+varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest
+specimen of this species of art in the present ecclesiastical
+remains of the city. <EM>St. Vivien</EM> is the second of these two
+former. It is a fine open church, with a large organ, having a very
+curious wooden screen in front, elaborately carved, and, as I
+conceive, of the very earliest part of the sixteenth century. I
+ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to be open, I
+examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre
+edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination.
+Such pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the
+first time, within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of
+the choir: walked gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps,
+(for not a creature was in the church) and, &quot;with no
+unhallowed hand&quot; I would hope, ventured to open the choral or
+service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide, thick, and
+ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed in
+every respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were
+extremely indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the
+churches, abroad, are open at all times of the day: the ancient or
+more massive door, or portal, is secured from shutting; but a
+temporary, small, shabby wooden door, covered with dirty green
+baize, opening and shutting upon circular hinges, just covers the
+vacuum left by the absence of the larger one.</P>
+
+<P>Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of <EM>St.
+Gervais</EM>, is situated considerably to the north of where the
+<EM>Boulevards Cauchoise</EM> and <EM>Bouvreuil</EM> meet. It was
+hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman historians, that the
+ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses: considering
+it as a <EM>lieu de plaisance.</EM> Here too it was that the
+Conqueror came to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed
+thither, from his palace in the city, for the benefit of the pure
+air.<A name="fnref_58"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_58">58</A> I
+walked with M. Le Prevost to this curious church: having before
+twice seen it. But the <EM>Crypt</EM> is the only thing worth
+talking about, on the score of antiquity. The same accomplished
+guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation of the capitals of
+the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in a rude,
+Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character.
+&quot;Perhaps,&quot; said M. Le Prevost, &quot;the last efforts of
+Roman art previous to the relinquishment of the Romans.&quot; Among
+these capitals there is one of the perfect Doric order; while in
+another you discover the remains of two Roman eagles. The columns
+are all of the same height; and totally unlike every thing of the
+kind which I have seen or heard of.</P>
+
+<P>We descended the hill upon which <EM>St. Gervais</EM> is built,
+and walked onward towards <EM>St. Paul</EM>, situated at the
+further and opposite end of the town, upon a gentle eminence, just
+above the Banks of the Seine.<A name="fnref_59"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_59">59</A> M. Le Prevost was still our conductor.
+This small edifice is certainly of remote antiquity, but I suspect
+it to be completely Norman. The eastern end is full of antiquarian
+curiosities. We observed something like a Roman mask as the centre
+ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; and Mr.
+Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in
+the exterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fashion. The
+<EM>Saxon whiskers</EM> are discoverable upon several of these
+faces. Upon the whole, it is possible that parts of this church may
+have been built at the latter end of the tenth century, after the
+Normans had made themselves completely masters of this part of the
+kingdom; yet it is more probable that there is no vestige left
+which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of the
+eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of <EM>St.
+Sever</EM>,<A name="fnref_60"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_60">60</A> supposed by some to be yet more ancient: but I had
+no opportunity of taking a particular survey of it.</P>
+
+<P>Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL
+ANTIQUITIES of Rouen. They merit indeed a volume of themselves.
+This city could once boast of upwards of <EM>thirty parish
+churches</EM>; of which very nearly a <EM>dozen</EM> have been
+recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into
+<EM>warehouses</EM>. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy
+mélange-- this strange misappropriation of what was formerly held
+most sacred, to the common and lowest purposes of civil life! You
+enter these warehouses, or offices of business, and see the broken
+shaft, the battered capital, and half-demolished altar-piece--the
+gilded or the painted frieze--in the midst of bales of
+goods--casks, ropes, and bags of cotton: while, without, the same
+spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured column, and
+tottering arch way. Thus time brings its changes and
+decays--premature as well as natural: and the noise of the car-men
+and injunctions of the clerk are now heard, where formerly there
+reigned a general silence, interrupted only by the matin or evening
+chaunt! I deplored this sort of sacrilegious adaptation, to a
+respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doors upon a
+chair, and smoking his pipe--&quot;c&#39;est dommage, Monsieur,
+qu&#39;on a converti l&#39;église à&quot;--He stopped me: raised
+his left hand: then took away his pipe with his right; gave a
+gentle whiff, and shrugging up his shoulders, half archly and half
+drily exclaimed--&quot;Mais que voulez vous, Monsieur?--ce sont des
+événemens qu&#39;on ne peut ni prévoir ni prévenir. Voilà ce que
+c&#39;est!&quot; Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable
+morceau of philosophy, consider me ever, &amp;c.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER VI.</H3>
+
+<P>HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE D&#39;ORLEANS (JEANNE
+D&#39;ARC.) BASSO- RILIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP D&#39;OR. PALACE
+AND COURTS OF JUSTICE.</P>
+
+<P>You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city
+of Rouen, before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of
+<EM>Mont St. Catherine</EM>. We must visit some relics of
+antiquity, and take a yet more familiar survey of the town, ere we
+strive</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">... superas evadere ad auras.</P>
+
+<P>Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured
+in its acquisition. The only town in England that can give you any
+notion of Rouen, is CHESTER; although the similitude holds only in
+some few particulars. I must, in the first place then, make
+especial mention of the HALLES DE COMMERCE. The <EM>markets</EM>
+here are numerous and abundant, and are of all kinds. Cloth,
+cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat, corn, and wine;
+these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle, wood,
+iron, earthenware, seeds, and implements of agriculture; these for
+the supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each
+market has its appropriate site. For picturesque effect, you must
+visit the <EM>Vieux Marché</EM>, for vegetables and fish; which is
+kept in an open space, once filled by the servants and troops of
+the old Dukes of Normandy, having the ancient ducal palace in
+front. This is the fountain head whence the minor markets are
+supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrella
+spread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat; and, seen
+from some points of view, the effect of all this, with the
+ever-restless motion of the tongues and feet of the vendors, united
+to their strange attire, is exceedingly singular and
+interesting.</P>
+
+<P>Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the <EM>Marché
+Neuf</EM>, where fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this
+season of the year there is necessarily little or no fruit, but I
+could have filled one coat pocket with eggs for less than half a
+franc. While on the subject of buying and selling, let us go to the
+<EM>Halles</EM> of <EM>Rouen</EM>; being large public buildings now
+exclusively appropriated to the sale of cloths, linen, and the
+varied <EM>et-ceteras</EM> of mercery. These are at once spacious
+and interesting in a high degree. They form the divisions of the
+open spaces, or squares, where the markets just mentioned are held;
+and were formerly the appurtenances of the palaces and chateaux of
+the old Dukes of Normandy: the <EM>latter</EM> of which are now
+wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning, to
+witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England:
+unless it be at a similar scene in <EM>Leeds</EM>. By six
+o&#39;clock the busy world is in motion within these halls. Then
+commences the incessant and inconceivable vociferation of buying
+and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carried on in several
+large stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars in the
+centre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and
+twenty English feet in length, by fifty-five in width. The centre,
+in each division, contains tables and counters for the display of
+cloth, cotton, stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The display of
+divers colours--the commendations bestowed by the seller, and the
+reluctant assent of the purchaser--the animated eye of the former,
+and the calculating brow of the latter--the removal of one set of
+wares, and the bringing on of another--in short, the never-ceasing
+succession of sounds and sights astonishes the gravity of an
+Englishman; whose astonishment is yet heightened by the
+extraordinary good humour which every where prevails. The laugh,
+the joke, the équivoque, and reply, were worth being recorded in
+pointed metre;--and what metre but that of Crabbe could possibly
+render it justice? By nine of the clock all is hushed. The sale is
+over: the goods are cleared; and both buyers and sellers have
+quitted the scene.</P>
+
+<P>From <EM>still</EM>, let me conduct you to <EM>active</EM> life.
+In other words, let us hasten to take a peep at the <EM>Horse and
+Cattle Market</EM>; which is fixed in the very opposite part of the
+town; that is, towards the northern Boulevards. The horses are
+generally entire: and indeed you have scarcely any thing in England
+which exceeds the <EM>Norman horse</EM>, properly so understood.
+This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength of
+his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained;
+and a Norman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough
+harness upon his back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a
+cart-horse almost buried beneath a profusion of ornament by way of
+collar; and have beheld a farmer&#39;s horse, led out to the
+plough, with trappings as gorgeous and striking as those of a
+General&#39;s charger brought forward for a review. The carts and
+vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels, which
+diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
+wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while
+the eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to
+nervous ears. On market days, the horses stand pretty close to each
+other for sale; and are led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and
+women, who contrive very dexterously to get out of the way of their
+active hoofs. The French seem to have an instinctive method of
+doing that, which, with ourselves, seems to demand forethought and
+deliberation.</P>
+
+<P>Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the
+<EM>Great Clock-- (Rue de la Grosse Horloge)</EM> which runs in a
+straight line from the western front of the Cathedral, at right
+angles with the <EM>Rue des Carmes</EM>, is probably the most
+important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our
+entrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to
+the upper part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we
+were lost in admiration at the singularity of the scene. The
+inhabitants saw, and enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain
+beneath, or rather on one side of this arch; over which is
+sculptured a motley group of insipid figures, of the latter time of
+Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock merits a leisurely survey:
+as do also some old houses, to the right, on looking at it. It was
+within this old tower that a bell was formerly tolled, at nine
+o&#39;clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to return
+within the walls of the city.<A name="fnref_61"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_61">61</A></P>
+
+<P>Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp
+descent, we observed a stand of hackney coaches in a small square,
+called <EM>La Place de la Pucelle</EM>: that is, the place where
+the famous JEANNE D&#39;ARC<A name="fnref_62"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_62">62</A> was imprisoned, and afterwards burnt. What
+sensations possess us as we gaze on each surrounding
+object!--although, now, each surrounding object has undergone a
+palpable change! Ah, my friend--what emotions were <EM>once</EM>
+excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of
+mind, mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of
+revenge, and the exclamations of pity! But life now goes on just
+the same as if nothing of the kind had happened here. The past is
+forgotten. This hapless Joan of Arc is one of the many, who, having
+been tortured as heretics, have been afterwards reverenced as
+martyrs. Her statue was, not very long after her execution, almost
+<EM>adored</EM> upon that very spot where her body had been
+consigned with execrations to the flames. The square, in which this
+statue stands, contains probably one of the very oldest houses in
+Rouen--and as interesting as it is ancient. It is invisible from
+without: but you open a wooden gate, and quickly find yourself
+within a small quadrangle, having three of its sides covered with
+basso-rilievo figures in plaster. That side which faces you is
+evidently older than the left: indeed I have no hesitation in
+assigning it to the end of the XVth century. The clustered
+ornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the
+exterior is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little
+wood-cut figures, chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of
+printed missals of the same period. The taste which prevails in
+them is half French and half Flemish. Not so is the character of
+the plaster figures which cover the <EM>left</EM> side on entering.
+These, my friend, are no less than the representation of the
+procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the famous CHAMP DE
+DRAP D&#39;OR: of which Montfaucon<A name="fnref_63"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_63">63</A> has published engravings. Having
+carefully examined this very curious relic, of the beginning of the
+sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the copy of
+Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be most
+egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it
+to be worth all the &quot;huge clocks&quot; in Rouen put together.
+I hardly know how to take you from this interesting spot--from this
+exhibition of beautiful old art--especially too when I consider
+that Francis himself once occupied the mansion, and held a Council
+here, with both English and French; that his bugles once sounded
+from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets once sparkled upon
+the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust that the
+Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relic to
+perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful
+representation of it.<A name="fnref_64"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_64">64</A></P>
+
+<P>While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and,
+crossing the <EM>Rue de la Grosse Horloge</EM>, contrive to place
+you in the centre of the square which is formed by the PALAIS DE
+JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider this building as the principal
+<EM>lion</EM> in their city. It has indeed claims to notice and
+admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic in
+Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the
+entreaty of the provincial States, through the interest of the
+famous Cardinal d&#39;Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This
+building precisely marks the restoration of Gothic taste in France,
+and the peculiar style of architecture which prevailed in the reign
+of Francis I. To say the truth, this style, however sparkling and
+imposing, is objectionable in many respects: for it is, in the
+first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure Grecian--but an
+injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are running up
+the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the Gothic
+ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing,
+taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. The
+external ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and
+elaborate execution; and they seem to be <EM>stuck on</EM> to the
+main building without rhyme or reason.</P>
+
+<P>The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and
+the prisoners are confined in the lower part of the building to the
+left: above which you mount by a flight of stone steps, which
+conducts you to a singularly curious hall,<A name="fnref_65"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_65">65</A> about one hundred and
+seventy-five English feet in length--roofed by wooden ribs, in the
+form of an arch, and displaying a most curious and exact specimen
+of carpenter&#39;s work. This is justly shewn and commented upon to
+the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building are devoted to the
+courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost every
+description. The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly
+in the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now
+taken a very different turn. Upon the whole, this <EM>Town
+Hall</EM>, or call it what you will, is rather a magnificent
+structure; and certainly superior to most provincial buildings of
+the kind which we possess in England. I should tell you that the
+courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, at the
+south part of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me
+thither, (and who possesses the choicest library<A name=
+"fnref_66"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_66">66</A> of antiquarian
+books, of all descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good
+fortune to see) carried me to the <EM>Hall of Commerce</EM>, which,
+among other apartments, contains a large chamber (contiguous to the
+Court of Justice) covered with <EM>fleurs de lys</EM> upon a light
+blue ground. It is now however much in need of reparation. Fresh
+lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary to harmonise with
+a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which is represented the
+reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies of the
+town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well
+painted after the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances.
+On enquiring how many of them were now living, I was told that--ALL
+WERE DEAD! The fate of the <EM>principal</EM> figure is but too
+well known. They should have this interesting subject--interesting
+undoubtedly to the inhabitants--executed by one of their best
+engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quite in the prime
+of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I have
+yet seen in painting or in engraving.</P>
+
+<P>It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal
+for the determination of commercial causes, there sits a very
+respectable Bench of Judges: among whom I recognised one that had
+perfectly the figure, air, and countenance, of an Englishman. On
+enquiry of my guide, I found my supposition verified. He
+<EM>was</EM> an Englishman; but had been thirty years a resident in
+<EM>Rouen</EM>. The judicial costume is appropriate in every
+respect; but I could not help smiling, the other morning, upon
+meeting my friend the judge, standing before the door of his house,
+in the open street--with a hairy cap on--leisurely smoking his
+pipe--And wherein consisted the harm of such a
+<EM>delassement</EM>?</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER VII.</H3>
+
+<P>THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE
+ROBEC ET D&#39;AUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES--GÉNÉRAL ET
+D&#39;HUMANITÉ.</P>
+
+<P>Still tarrying within this old fashioned place? I have indeed
+yet much to impart before I quit it, and which I have no scruple in
+avowing will be well deserving of your attention.</P>
+
+<P>Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the
+famous chemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (<EM>Rue
+Beauvoisine</EM>) and the yet more wonderful spectacle exhibited in
+M. Lemere&#39;s machine for sawing wood of all descriptions, into
+small or large planks, by means of water works--I must take you
+along THE QUAYS for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by an
+architectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the
+original plan, would present us with one of the noblest structures
+in Europe. This stone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. but
+many and prosperous must be the years of art, of commerce, and of
+peace, before money sufficient can be raised for the successful
+completion of the pile. The quays are long, broad, and full of
+bustle of every description; while in some of the contiguous
+squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth, and linen, are
+spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of this varied
+and animated scene, walks a well-known character, in his large
+cocked hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with
+lemonade or coffee, surmounted by a bell--which &quot;ever and
+anon&quot; is sounded for the sake of attracting customers. He is
+here copied to the life.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:70%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/118.png" alt="Well-known character"></DIV>
+
+<P>As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid
+Seine, and its <EM>Bridge of Boats</EM>, you cannot help glancing
+now and then down the narrow old-fashioned streets, which run at
+right angles with the quays- -with the innumerable small
+tile-fashioned pieces of wood, like scales, upon the roofs--which
+seem as if they would be demolished by every blast. The narrowness
+and gloom of these streets, together with the bold and overwhelming
+projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford a striking
+contrast to the animated scene upon the quays:--where the sun
+shines with full freedom, as it were; and where the glittering
+streamers, at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and
+prosperity of the town. If the day happen to be fine, you may
+devote half a morning in contemplating, and mingling with, so
+interesting a scene.</P>
+
+<P>We have had frequent thunder-storms of late; and the other
+Sunday evening, happening to be sauntering at a considerable height
+above the north-west Boulevards, towards the <EM>Faubourg
+Cauchoise</EM>, I gained a summit, upon the edge of a gravel pit,
+whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitously upon the town
+below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over the whole
+city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it,
+shining like a broad silver chord: while the barren, ascending
+plains, through which the road to Caen passes, were gradually
+becoming dusk with the overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain
+which seemed to be rushing down in one immense torrent. The tops of
+the Cathedral and of the abbey of St. Ouen were almost veiled in
+darkness, by the passing storm; but the lower part of the tower,
+and the whole of the nave of each building, were in one stream of
+golden light--from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In
+ten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober,
+uniform tint of evening; but I can never forget the rich bed of
+purple and pink, fringed with burnished gold, in which the sun of
+that evening set! I descended--absorbed in the recollection of the
+lovely objects which I had just contemplated--and regaled by the
+sounds of a thousand little gurgling streamlets, created by the
+passing tempest, and hastening to precipitate themselves into the
+Seine.</P>
+
+<P>Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on
+in Rouen with the greatest success, those connected with the
+<EM>cotton manufactories</EM> cannot fail to claim your attention;
+and I fancied I saw, in some of the shop-windows, shawls and gowns
+which might presume to vie with our Manchester and Norwich
+productions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French were extremely
+partial to British manufactures: and cotton stockings, coloured
+muslins, and what are called ginghams, are coveted by them with the
+same fondness as we prize their cambric and their lace. Their best
+articles in watches, clocks, silver ornaments, and trinkets, are
+obtained from Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the
+Rouennois the justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare
+with their <EM>escrutoires</EM> and other articles of furniture
+made of the walnut tree. These upright escrutoires, or writing
+desks, are in almost every bed-room of the more respectable hotels:
+but of course their polish is gone when they become stationary
+furniture in an inn--for the art of rubbing, or what is called
+<EM>elbow-grease</EM> with us--is almost unknown on either side of
+the Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine specimen of a side
+board, or an escrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by
+one of their best cabinet-makers from choice walnut wood. The
+polish and tone of colour are equally gratifying; and resemble
+somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer aspect. The
+<EM>or-molu</EM> ornaments are tastefully put on; but the general
+shape, or contour, of the several pieces of furniture, struck me as
+being in bad taste.</P>
+
+<P>He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene,
+connected with <EM>trade</EM>, should walk leisurely down the RUE
+DE ROBEC. It is surely the oddest, and as some may think, the most
+repulsive scene imaginable: But who that has a rational curiosity
+could resist such a walk? Here live the <EM>dyers of
+clothes</EM>--and in the middle of the street rushes the
+precipitous stream, called <EM>L&#39;Eau de Robec</EM><A name=
+"fnref_67"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_67">67</A>--receiving
+colours of all hues. To-day it is nearly jet black: to-morrow it is
+bright scarlet: a third day it is blue, and a fourth day it is
+yellow! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by little bridges,
+communicating with the manufactories, or with that side of the
+street where the work-people live: and the whole has a dismal and
+disagreeable aspect--especially in dirty weather: but if you go to
+one end of it (I think to the east--as it runs east and west) and
+look down upon the descending street, with the overhanging upper
+stories and roofs--the foreshortened, numerous bridges-- the
+differently-coloured dyed clothes, suspended from the windows, or
+from poles--the constant motion of men, women, and children,
+running across the bridges--with the rapid, <EM>camelion</EM>
+stream beneath--you cannot fail to acknowledge that this is one of
+the most singular, grotesque, and uncommon sights in the
+wonder-working city of Rouen. I ought to tell you that the first
+famous Cardinal d&#39;Amboise (of whom the preceding pages have
+made such frequent honourable mention) caused the <EM>Eau de
+Robec</EM> to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from its
+original channel or source in a little valley near <EM>St. Martin
+du Vivien</EM>. Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of
+these &quot;teinturiers&quot; in the Rue de Robec--but they have of
+late sought more capacious premises in the fauxbourgs <EM>de St.
+Hilaire</EM> and <EM>de Martainville</EM>. The neighbouring
+sister-stream, <EM>l&#39;Eau d&#39;Aubette</EM>, is destined to the
+same purposes as that of which I have been just discoursing; but I
+do not at this moment recollect whether it be also dignified, in
+its course, by turning a few corn mills, ere it empties itself into
+the Seine. Indeed the thundering noise of one of these mills,
+turned by the Robec river, near the church of St. Maclou, will not
+be easily forgotten. Thus you see of what various, strange, and
+striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise, life
+and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes
+of sea coal:--hilarity and apparent contentment:--the spruce
+bourgeoise and the slattern fille de chambre:--attired in vestments
+of deep crimson and dark blue--every thing flits before you as if
+touched by magic, and as if sorrow and misfortune were unknown to
+the inhabitants.</P>
+
+<P>&quot;Paullò majora canamus.&quot; In other words, let us leave
+the Town for the Country. Let us hurry through a few more narrow
+and crowded alleys, courts, and streets--and as the morning is yet
+beautiful, let us hasten onwards to enjoy the famous Panorama of
+Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE. CATHARINE.... Indeed, my
+friend, I sincerely wish that you could have accompanied me to the
+summit of this enchanting eminence: but as you are far away, you
+must be content with a brief description of our little expedition
+thither.<A name="fnref_68"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_68">68</A> The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk,
+is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of
+Rouen; or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation
+from which the city is to be viewed to the greatest possible
+advantage. It lies to the left of the Seine, in your way from the
+town; and the ascent begins considerably beyond the barriers.
+Indeed it is on the route to Paris. We took an excellent
+<EM>fiacre</EM> to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that
+our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities
+immediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon
+commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was
+not much labour or much difficulty: so, halting, or standing, or
+sitting, on each little eminence, our admiration seemed to
+encrease--till, gaining the highest point, looking towards the
+west, we found ourselves immediately above the town and the whole
+of its environs....</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&quot;Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread
+around!&quot;</P>
+
+<P>The prospect was indeed &quot;goodly--&quot; being varied,
+extensive, fertile, and luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively
+backward spring. The city was the main object, not only of
+attraction, but of astonishment. Although the point from which we
+viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with the summit of
+the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as it
+were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw
+each church, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we
+began to think we could discover almost every individual stirring
+in them. The soldiers, exercising on the parade in the Champ de
+Mars, seemed to be scarcely two stones&#39; throw from us; while
+the sounds of their music reached us in the most distinct and
+gratifying manner. No &quot;Diable boiteux&quot; could ever have
+transported a &quot;Don Cleophas Léandro Perez Zambullo&quot; to a
+more favourable situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a
+city; and if the houses had been unroofed, we could have almost
+discerned whether the <EM>escrutoires</EM> were made of mahogany or
+walnut-wood! This wonder- working effect proceeds from the
+extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence of
+sea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue--the generality of the
+roofs were also composed of blue slate: this, added to the
+incipient verdure of the boulevards, and the darker hues of the
+trunks of the trees, upon the surrounding hills--the lengthening
+forests to the left, and the numerous white &quot;maisons de
+plaisance&quot;<A name="fnref_69"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_69">69</A> to the right-- while the Seine, with its hundred
+vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you--with
+its cultivated little islands--and the sweeping meadows or
+race-ground<A name="fnref_70"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_70">70</A> on the other side--all, or indeed any, of these
+objects could not fail to excite our warmest admiration, and to
+make us instinctively exclaim &quot;that such a panorama was
+perfectly unrivalled!&quot;</P>
+
+<P>We descended Mont Ste. Catharine on the side facing the
+<EM>Hospice Général</EM>: a building of a very handsome form, and
+considerable dimensions. It is a noble establishment for
+foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes. I was told that
+not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings were sheltered in
+this asylum; a number, which equally astonished and delighted me.
+The descent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing; being
+composed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of
+trees and shrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred
+yards from the hospital. The architecture of this extensive
+building is more mixed than that of its neighbour the <EM>Hospice
+d&#39;Humanité</EM>, on account of the different times in which
+portions of it were added: but, upon the whole, you are rather
+struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence of
+style. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good
+breeding of its motley inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly,
+with their arms behind them, between rows of trees:-- others were
+tranquilly sitting upon benches: a third group would be in motion
+within the squares of the building: a fourth appeared in deep
+consultation whether the <EM>potage</EM> of to day were not
+inferior to that of the preceding day?--&quot;Que cherchez vous,
+Monsieur?&quot; said a fine looking old man, touching, and half
+taking off, his cocked hat; &quot;I wish to see the Abbé
+Turquier,&quot;--rejoined I. &quot;Ah, il vient de sortir--par ici,
+Monsieur.&quot; &quot;Thank you.&quot; &quot;Monsieur je vous
+souhaite le bon jour--au plaisir de vous revoir!&quot; And thus I
+paced through the squares of this vast building. The
+&quot;Portier&quot; had a countenance which our Wilkie would have
+seized with avidity, and copied with inimitable spirit and
+fidelity.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER VIII.</H3>
+
+<P>EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS.
+BOOKSELLERS. BOOK COLLECTORS.</P>
+
+<P>Now for a little gossip and chit-chat about <EM>Paper, Ink,
+Books, Printing- Offices</EM>, and curiosities of a GRAPHIC
+description. Perhaps the most regular method would be to speak of a
+few of the principal <EM>Presses</EM>, before we take the
+<EM>productions</EM> of these presses into consideration. And
+first, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen.<A name=
+"fnref_71"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_71">71</A> The art of
+printing is supposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of
+the name of MAUFER, between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the
+specimens of Rouen <EM>Missals</EM> and <EM>Breviaries</EM>,
+especially of those by MORIN, who was the second printer in this
+city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, and
+rather striking, is here enclosed for your gratification.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:50%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/129.png" alt="Device"></DIV>
+
+<P>Few provincial towns have been more fertile in typographical
+productions; and the reputation of TALLEUR, GUALTIER, and VALENTIN,
+gave great respectability to the press of Rouen at the commencement
+of the sixteenth century.</P>
+
+<P>Yet I am not able to ascertain whether these presses were very
+fruitful in <STRONG>Romances, Chronicles</STRONG>, and <STRONG>Old
+Poetry</STRONG>. I rather think, however, that they were not
+deficient in this popular class of literature, if I am to judge
+from the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the
+hands of the curious. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see
+could never repress the natural love of the French, from time
+immemorial, for light and fanciful reading.</P>
+
+<P>You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old
+courts, by- lanes, and unfrequented corners--in search of what is
+curious, or precious, or rare in the book way. But ere we touch
+that enchanting chord, let us proceed according to the plan laid
+down. First therefore for printing- offices. Of these, the names of
+PÉRIAUX, (<EM>Imprimeur de l&#39;Academie</EM>,) BAUDRY,
+(<EM>Imprimeur du Roi</EM>) MÉGARD, (<EM>Rue Martainville</EM>) and
+LECRENE-LABBEY, (<EM>Imprimeur-Libraire et Marchand de
+Papiers</EM>) are masters of the principal presses; but such is the
+influence of Paris, or of metropolitan fashions, that a publisher
+will sometimes prefer getting his work printed at the capital.<A
+name="fnref_72"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_72">72</A> Of the
+foregoing printers, it behoves me to make some mention; and yet I
+can speak personally but of two: Messieurs Périaux and Mégard. M.
+Periaux is printer to the <EM>Académie des Sciences, Belles-Lettres
+et Arts de Rouen</EM>, of which academy, indeed, he is himself an
+accomplished member. He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and
+obliging to the last degree; and may be considered the <EM>Henry
+Stephen</EM> of the Rouen Printers. He urged me to call often: but
+I could visit him only twice. Each time I found him in his counting
+house, with his cap on-- shading his eyes: a pen in his right hand,
+and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoiced at seeing me, I
+could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, he wished me
+to &quot;say my saying quickly,&quot;<A name="fnref_73"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_73">73</A> and to leave him to his
+<EM>deles</EM> and <EM>stets</EM>! He has a great run of business,
+and lives in one of those strange, old-fashioned houses, in the
+form of a square, with an outside spiral staircase, so common in
+this extraordinary city. He introduced me to his son, an
+intelligent young man--well qualified to take the labouring oar,
+either upon the temporary or permanent retirement of his parent.<A
+name="fnref_74"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_74">74</A></P>
+
+<P>Of Monsieur MÉGARD, who may be called the ancient
+<EM>Jenson</EM>, or the modern <EM>Bulmer</EM>, of Rouen, I can
+speak only in terms of praise--both as a civil gentleman and as a
+successful printer. He is doubtless the most elegant printer in
+this city; and being also a publisher, his business is very
+considerable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among the
+neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the
+fruits of his enterprise and industry. On my first visit, M. Mégard
+was from home; but Madame, &quot;son épouse, l&#39;attendoit à
+chaque moment!&quot; There is a particular class of women among the
+French, which may be said to be singularly distinguished for their
+intelligence, civility, and good breeding. I mean the wives of the
+more respectable tradesmen. Thus I found it, in addition to a
+hundred similar previous instances, with Madame Mégard. &quot;Mais
+Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?&quot;
+&quot;I wish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am
+an enthusiastic lover of the art of printing. I search every where
+for skilful printers, and thus it is that I come to pay my respects
+to Monsieur Mégard.&quot; We both sat down and conversed together;
+and I found in Madame Mégard a communicative, and well-instructed,
+representative of the said ancient Jenson, or modern Bulmer.
+&quot;Enfin, voilà mon mari qui arrive&quot;--said Madame, turning
+round, upon the opening of the door:--when I looked forward, and
+observed a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a
+countenance perfectly English--but accoutred in the dress of the
+<EM>national guard</EM>, with a grenadier cap on his head. Madame
+saw my embarrassment: laughed: and in two minutes her husband knew
+the purport of my visit. He began by expressing his dislike of the
+military garb: but admitted the absolute necessity of adopting such
+a measure as that of embodying a national guard. &quot;Soyez le
+bien venu; Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible, Monsieur, de
+l&#39;honneur que vous me faites--vû que vous êtes antiquaire
+typographique, et que vous avez publié des ouvrages relatifs à
+notre art. Mais ce n&#39;est pas ici qu&#39;il faut en chercher de
+belles épreuves. C&#39;est à Paris.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well
+acquainted with the fine productions of <EM>Didot</EM>, and had
+also seen the less aspiring ones of himself; of which indeed I had
+reason to think his townsmen might be proud. This I spoke with the
+utmost sincerity. My first visit concluded with two elegant little
+book-presents, on the part of M. Megard--one being <EM>Heures de
+Rouen, à l&#39;usage du Diocese</EM>, 1814, 12mo. and the other
+<EM>Etrennes nouvelles commodes et utiles</EM>; 1815, 12mo.--the
+former bound in green morocco; and the latter in calf, with gilt
+leaves, but printed on a sort of apricot-tinted paper--producing no
+unpleasing effect. Both are exceedingly well executed. My visits to
+M. Mégard were rather frequent. He has a son at the Collége Royale,
+or Lycée, whither I accompanied him, one Sunday morning, and took
+the church of that establishment in the way. It is built entirely
+in the Italian style of architecture: is exceedingly spacious: has
+a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I saw in it,
+although by no means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that it
+is in churches of <EM>Roman</EM>, and not of <EM>Gothic</EM>
+architecture, that paintings produce the most harmonious effect.
+This college and church form a noble establishment, situated in one
+of the most commanding eminences of the town. From some parts of
+it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbey of St. Ouen,
+with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hills and
+woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriously
+picturesque manner.</P>
+
+<P>But the printer who does the most business--or rather whose
+business lies in the lower department of the art, in bringing forth
+what are called <EM>chap books</EM>--is
+LECRENE-LABBEY--<EM>imprimeur-libraire et marchand de papiers</EM>.
+The very title imports a sort of <EM>Dan Newberry&#39;s</EM>
+repository. I believe however that Lecrêne-Labbey&#39;s business is
+much diminished. He once lived in the <EM>Rue de la
+Grosse-Horloge</EM>, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in one
+of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the
+premises he now occupies were once an old church or monastery, and
+that a thousand fluttering sheets are now suspended, where formerly
+was seen the solemn procession of silken banners, with religious
+emblems, emblazoned in colours of all hues. I called at the old
+shop, and supplied myself with a dingy copy of the <EM>Catalogue de
+la Bibliothéque Bleue</EM>--from which catalogue however I could
+purchase but little; as the greater part of the old books, several
+of the <EM>Caxtonian stamp</EM>, had taken their departures. It was
+from this Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the
+works destined for common reading; and from hence inferred, what I
+stated to you a little time ago, that <EM>Romances, Rondelays</EM>,
+and chivalrous stories, are yet read with pleasure by the good
+people of France. It is, in short, from this lower, or
+<EM>lowest</EM> species of literature--if it must be so
+designated--that we gather the real genius, or mental character of
+the ordinary classes of society. I do assure you that some of these
+<EM>chap</EM> publications are singularly droll and curious. Even
+the very rudiments of learning, or the mere alphabet-book, meets
+the eye in a very imposing manner--as in the following
+facsimile.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:50%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/136.png" alt="Specimen"></DIV>
+
+<P><EM>Love, Marriage</EM>, and <EM>Confession</EM>, are fertile
+themes. in these little farthing chap books. Yonder sits a fille de
+chambre, after her work is done. She is intent upon some little
+manual, taken from the <EM>Bibliothèque Bleue</EM>. Approach her,
+and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, and readily shews you
+<EM>Catéchisme à l&#39;usage des Grandes Filles pour être Mariées;
+ensemble la manière d&#39;attirer les Amans</EM>. At the first
+glance of it, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to
+end, a wild and probably somewhat indecorous manual of instruction.
+By no means; for read the <EM>Litanies</EM> and <EM>Prayer</EM>
+with which it concludes, and which I here send; admitting that they
+exhibit a strange mixture of the simple and the serious.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">LITANIES.</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Pour toutes les Filles qui désirent entrer en
+menage</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Kyrie,</EM> je voudrois,<BR>
+ <EM>Christe</EM>, être mariée.<BR>
+ <EM>Kyrie</EM>, je prie tous les Saints,<BR>
+ <EM>Christe</EM>, que ce soin demain.<BR>
+ <EM>Sainte Marie</EM>, tout le Monde se marie.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Joseph</EM>, que vous ai-je fait?<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Nicolas</EM>, ne m&#39;oubliez pas.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Médérie</EM>, que j&#39;aie un bon mari.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Matthieu</EM>, qu&#39;il craigne Dieu.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Jean</EM>, qu&#39;il m&#39;aime tendrement.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Bruno</EM>, qu&#39;il soit juli &amp;beau.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Francois</EM>, qu&#39;il me soit fidele.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint André</EM>, qu&#39;il soit à mon gré.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Didier</EM>, qu&#39;il aime à travailler.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Honoré</EM>, qu&#39;il n&#39;aime pas à jouer.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Severin</EM>, qu&#39;il n&#39;aime pas le vin.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Clément</EM>, qu&#39;il soit diligent.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Sauveur</EM>, qu&#39;il ait bon coeur.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Nicaise</EM>, que je sois à mon aise.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Josse</EM>, qu&#39;il me donne un carrosse.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Boniface</EM>, que mon mariage se fasse.<BR>
+ <EM>Saint Augustin</EM>, dès demain matin.<BR>
+</P>
+
+<P class="quote">ORAISON.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">Seigneur, qui avez formé Adam de la terre, et qui
+lui avez donné Eve pour sa compagne; envoyez-moi, s&#39;il vous
+plait, un bon mari pour compagnon, non pour la volupté, mais pour
+vous honorer &amp;avoir des enfants qui vous bénissent. Ainsi soit
+il.</P>
+
+<P>Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a
+singularly amusing little manual called &quot;<EM>La Confession de
+la Bonne Femme</EM>.&quot; It is really not divested of merit.
+Whether however it may not have been written during the Revolution,
+with a view to ridicule the practice of auricular confession which
+yet obtains throughout France, I cannot take upon me to pronounce;
+but there are undoubtedly some portions of it which seem so
+obviously to satirise this practice, that one can hardly help
+drawing a conclusion in the affirmative. On the other hand it may
+perhaps be inferred, with greater probability, that it is intended
+to shew with what extreme facility a system of
+<EM>self-deception</EM> may be maintained.<A name="fnref_75"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_75">75</A> Referring however to the little
+manual in question, among the various choice morceaus which it
+contains, take the following extracts: exemplificatory of a
+woman&#39;s <EM>evading the main points of confession</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Confesseur</EM>. Ne voulez vous pas me
+répondre; en un mot, combien y a-t-il de temps que vous ne vous
+êtes confessée?</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>La Pénitente.</EM> Il y a un mois tout juste,
+car c&#39;étoit le quatrième jour du mois passé, &amp;nous sommes
+au cinquième du mois courant; or comptez, mon pere, &amp;vous
+trouverez justement que ...</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. C&#39;est assez, ne parlez point tant,
+&amp;dites moi en peu de mots vos péchés.</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Elle raconte les péchés d&#39;autrui.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>La Pénitente</EM>. J&#39;ai un enfant qui est
+le plus méchant garçon que vous ayez jamais vu: il jure, bat sa
+soeur, il fuit l&#39;école, dérobe tout ce qu&#39;il peut pour
+jouer; il suit de méchans fripons: l&#39;autre jour en courant il
+perdit son chapeau. Enfin, c&#39;est un méchant garçon, je veux
+vous l&#39;amener afin que vous me l&#39;endoctriniez un peu
+s&#39;il vous plaît.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Dites-moi vos péchés.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">P. Mais, mon père, j&#39;ai une fille qui est
+encore pire. Je ne la peux faire lever le matin: Je l&#39;appelle
+cent fois: <EM>Marguerite: plait-il ma Mere? lève-toi promptement
+et descends: j&#39;y vais</EM>. Elle ne bouge pas. <EM>Si tu ne
+viens maintenant, tu seras battue.</EM> Elle s&#39;en moque. Quand
+je l&#39;envoie à la Ville, je lui dis <EM>reviens promptement, ne
+t&#39;amuse pas</EM>. Cependant, elle s&#39;arrête à toutes les
+portes comme l&#39;âne d&#39;un meûnier, elle babille avec tous
+ceux qu&#39;elle rencontre; &amp;quand elle me fait cela, je la
+bats: ne fais-je pas bien, mon père?</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Dites-moi <EM>vos</EM> péchés et non pas ceux
+de <EM>vos enfans</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">P. Il se trouve, mon père, que nous avons dans
+notre rue une voisine qui est la plus méchante de toutes les
+femmes: elle jure, elle querelle tous ceux qui passent, personne ne
+la peut souffrir, ni son mari, ni ses enfans, &amp;bien souvent
+elle s&#39;enivre, &amp;vous me dites, mon père, quelle est
+celle-la? c&#39;est ...</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer; car à la
+confession il ne faut jamais fair connoitre les personnes dont vous
+déclarez les péchés.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">P. C&#39;est elle qui vient se confesser après
+moi: grondez-la bien, car vous ne lui en sauriez trop dire.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Taisez-vous donc, &amp;ne parlez que de
+<EM>vos</EM> péchés, non pas de ceux <EM>des autres</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Elle s&#39;accuse de ce qui n&#39;est point
+péché.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Pénitente</EM>.--Ah! mon père, j&#39;ai fait
+un grand péché, ah! le grand péché! Hélas je serai damnée, quoique
+mon confesseur m&#39;ait defendu de le dire j&#39;amais, néanmoins
+mon père je vais vous le declarer.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Ne le dites point, puisque votre confesseur
+vous l&#39;a defendu, je ne veux point l&#39;entendre.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">P. Ah! n&#39;importe; je veux vous le dire,
+c&#39;est un trop grand péché: J&#39;ai battu ma mère.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Vous avez battu votre mère! Ah! misérable,
+c&#39;est un cas réservé &amp; un crime qui mérite la potence. Et
+quand l&#39;avez-vous battue?</P>
+
+<P class="quote">P. Quand j&#39;étois petite de l&#39;âge de quatre
+ans.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">C. Ah! simple, ne savez-vous pas que tout ce que
+les enfans font avant l&#39;âge de raison, qui est environ
+l&#39;âge de sept ans, ne sauroit être un péché.</P>
+
+<P>There is however one thing, which I must frankly declare to you
+as entitled to distinct notice and especial commendation. It is,
+the method of teaching &quot;catechisms&quot; of a different and
+higher order: I mean the CHURCH CATECHISMS. Both the Cathedral and
+the Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels. Within these side
+chapels are collected, on stated days of the week, the young of
+both sexes. They are arranged in a circle. A priest, in his white
+robes, is seated, or stands, in the centre of them. He examines,
+questions, corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls for it.
+His manner is winning and persuasive. His action is admirable. The
+lads shew him great respect, and are rarely rude, or seen to laugh.
+Those who answer well, and pay the greater attention, receive, with
+words of commendation, gentle pats upon the head--and I could not
+but consider the blush, with which this mark of favour was usually
+received, as so many presages of future excellence in the youth. I
+once witnessed a most determined catechetical lecture of girls; who
+might be called, in the language of their matrimonial catechism,
+&quot;de grandes filles.&quot; It was on an evening, in the Chapel
+of Our Lady in St. Ouen&#39;s Abbey, that this examination took
+place. Two elderly priests attended. The responses of the females
+were as quick as they were correct; the eye being always invariably
+fixed on the pavement, accompanied with a gravity and even piety of
+expression. A large group of mothers, with numerous spectators,
+were in attendance. A question was put, to which a supposed
+incorrect response was given. It was repeated, and the same answer
+followed. The priest hesitated: something like vexation was
+kindling in his cheek, while the utmost calmness and confidence
+seemed to mark the countenance of the examinant. The attendant
+mothers were struck with surprise. A silence for one minute ensued.
+The question related to the &quot;Holy Spirit.&quot; The priest
+gently approached the girl, and softly articulated--&quot;Mais, ma
+chère considerez un peu,&quot;--and repeated the question.
+&quot;Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil) j&#39;ai bien
+considerée, et je crois que c&#39;est comme je vous l&#39;ai déjà
+dit.&quot; The Priest crossed his hands upon his breast ... brought
+down his eyebrows in a thoughtful mood ... and turning quickly
+round to the girl, addressed her in the most affectionate tone of
+voice--&quot;Ma petite,--tu as bien dit; et j&#39;avois tort.&quot;
+The conduct of the girl was admirable: She curtsied, blushed ...
+and with eyes, from which tears seemed ready to start, surveyed the
+circle of spectators ... caught the approving glance of her mother,
+and sunk triumphantly upon her chair--with the united admiration of
+teachers, companions, parents and spectators! The whole was
+conducted with the most perfect propriety; and the pastors did not
+withdraw till they were fairly exhausted. A love of truth obliges
+me to confess that this reciprocity of zeal, on the part of master
+and pupil, is equally creditable to both parties; and especially
+serviceable to the cause of religion and morality.</P>
+
+<P>Let me here make honourable mention of the kind offices of
+<EM>Monsieur Longchamp</EM>, who volunteered his friendly services
+in walking over half the town with me, to shew me what he justly
+considered as the most worthy of observation. It is impossible for
+a generous mind to refuse its testimony to the ever prompt kindness
+of a well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you all the services in his
+power. Enquire the way,--and you have not only a finger quickly
+pointing to it, but the owner of the finger must also put himself
+in motion to accompany you a short distance upon the route, and
+that too uncovered! &quot;Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre chapeau ...
+je vous en prie ... mille pardons.&quot; &quot;Monsieur ne dites
+pas un seul mot ... pour mon chapeau, qu&#39;il reste à son
+aise.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Among book-collectors, Antiquaries, and Men of Taste, let me
+speak with becoming praise of the amiable and accomplished M.
+AUGUSTE LE PREVOST--who is considered, by competent judges, to be
+the best antiquary in Rouen.<A name="fnref_76"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_76">76</A> Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in our own
+country, synonymous with all that is liberal and enlightened in
+matters of virtù) was so obliging as to give me a letter of
+introduction to him; and he shewed me several rare and splendid
+works, which were deserving of the commendations that they received
+from their owner.</P>
+
+<P>M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains of Roman
+masonry at Rouen; but he will not be displeased to see that the
+only existing relics of the castle or town walls, have been copied
+by the pencil of a late travelling friend. What you here behold is
+probably of the fourteenth century.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:60%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/144.png" alt="Relics of the castle or town walls"></DIV>
+
+<P>The next book-collector in commendation of whom I am bound to
+speak, is MONSIEUR DUPUTEL; a member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of
+the <EM>Academy of Belles-Lettres</EM> at Rouen. The Abbé Turquier
+conducted me thither; and I found, in the owner of a choice
+collection of books, a well-bred gentleman, and a most hearty
+bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small library; but, withal,
+some very curious, scarce, and interesting volumes. M. Duputel is
+smitten with that amiable passion,--the love of printing for
+<EM>private distribution</EM>--thus meriting to become a sort of
+Roxburghe Associate. He was so good as to beg my acceptance of the
+&quot;nouvelle édition&quot; of his &quot;<EM>Bagatelles
+Poétiques,&quot;</EM> printed in an octavo volume of about 112
+pages, at Rouen, in 1816. On taking it home, I discovered the
+following not infelicitous version of our Prior&#39;s beautiful
+little Poem of <EM>the Garland</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>La Guirlande</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Traduction de l&#39;Anglais de
+Prior</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Pour orner de Chloé les cheveux ondoyans,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Parmi les fleurs nouvellement
+écloses</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">J&#39;avais choisi les lis les plus
+brillans,</SPAN><BR>
+ Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraîches roses.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Ma Chloé sur son front les plaça la matin:<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Alors on vit céder sans peine,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Leur vif éclat à celui de son teint,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Leur doux parfum à ceux de son
+haleine.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient
+s&#39;embellir,<BR>
+ Et sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les bergères<BR>
+ Les voyaient se faner avec plus de plaisir<BR>
+ Qu&#39;ils ne les voyaient naître au milieu des parterres.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Mais, le soir, quand leur sein
+flétri</SPAN><BR>
+ Eut cessé d&#39;exhaler son odeur séduisante,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Elle fixa, d&#39;un regard attendri,</SPAN><BR>
+ Cette guirlande, hélas! n&#39;aguères si brillante.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Des larmes aussi-tôt coulent de ses beaux
+yeux.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Que d&#39;éloquence dans ces larmes!</SPAN><BR>
+ Jamais pour l&#39;exprimer, le langage des dieux,<BR>
+ Tout sublime qu&#39;il est, n&#39;aurait assez de charmes.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">En feignant d&#39;ignorer ce tendre
+sentiment;<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">&quot;Pourquoi,&quot; lui dis-je, &quot;ô ma
+sensible amie,</SPAN><BR>
+ Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement<BR>
+ Abandonner ton ame à la melancholie?&quot;</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&quot;Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent
+tristement?&quot;<BR>
+ Me dit, en soupirant, ce moraliste aimable,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">&quot;De leur fraîcheur, en un
+moment,</SPAN><BR>
+ S&#39;est éclipsé le charme peu durable.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Tel est, hélas! notre
+destin;</SPAN><BR>
+ Fleur de beauté ressemble à celles des prairies;<BR>
+ On les voit toutes deux naître avec le matin,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Et dès le soir être flétries.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Estelle hier encor brillait dans nos hameaux,<BR>
+ Et l&#39;amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces;<BR>
+ De la mort, aujourd&#39;hui, I&#39;impitoyable faulx<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">A moissonné sa jeunesse et ses
+graces.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Soumise aux mêmes lois, peut-être que demain,<BR>
+ Comme elle aussi, Damon, j&#39;aurai cessé de vivre....<BR>
+ Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Auquel ton amante se livre.&quot;</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">p. 92.</P>
+
+<P>The last and not the least of book-collectors, which I have had
+an opportunity of visiting, is MONSIEUR RIAUX. With respect to what
+may be called a ROUENNOISE LIBRARY, that of M. Riaux is greatly
+preferable to any which I have seen; although I am not sure whether
+M. Le Prevost&#39;s collection contain not nearly as many books. M.
+Riaux is himself a man of first-rate book enthusiasm; and unites
+the avocations of his business with the gratification of his
+literary appetites, in a manner which does him infinite honour. A
+city like Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants; and the
+government, when it begins to breathe a little from recent
+embarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and support that finest of
+all patriotic feelings,--a desire to preserve the RELICS, MANNERS,
+AND CUSTOMS of PAST AGES. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in
+objects which may gratify the most unbounded passion in this
+pursuit. It is the country where formerly the harp of the minstrel
+poured forth some of its sweetest strains; and the lay and the
+fabliaux of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, which delight us
+in the text of Sainte Palaye, and in the versions of Way, owed
+their existence to the combined spirit of chivalry and literature,
+which never slumbered upon the shores of Normandy.</P>
+
+<P>Farewell now to ROUEN.<A name="fnref_77"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_77">77</A> I have told you all the tellings which I
+thought worthy of communication. I have endeavoured to make you
+saunter with me in the streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and
+the churches. We have, in imagination at least, strolled together
+along the quays, visited the halls and public buildings, and gazed
+with rapture from Mont Ste. Catharine upon the enchanting view of
+the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. We have from
+thence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed a
+country equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our
+hearts, from that same height, have wished all manner of health,
+wealth, and prosperity, to a land thus abounding in corn and wine,
+and oil and gladness. We have silently, but sincerely prayed, that
+swords may for ever be &quot;turned into plough-shares, and spears
+into pruning-hooks:&quot;--that all heart-burnings, antipathies,
+and animosities, may be eternally extinguished; and that, from
+henceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend to
+establish, upon a firmer footing, and upon a more comprehensive
+scale, the peace and happiness of fellow-creatures, of whatever
+persuasion they may be:--of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts
+of individual and of national improvement, and blend the duties of
+social order with the higher calls of morality and religion. Ah! my
+friend, these are neither foolish thoughts nor romantic wishes.
+They arise naturally in an honest heart, which, seeing that all
+creation is animated and upheld by ONE and the SAME POWER, cannot
+but ardently hope that ALL may be equally benefited by a reliance
+upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descended
+somewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled in
+flower- gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors of
+works--both of the dead and of the living. So now, fare you well.
+Commend me to your family and to our common friends,--especially to
+the Gorburghers should they perchance enquire after their wandering
+Vice President. Many will be the days passed over, and many the
+leagues traversed, ere I meet them again. Within twenty-four hours
+my back will be more decidedly turned upon &quot;dear old
+England&quot;--for that country, in which her ancient kings once
+held dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said
+<EM>acre</EM>) is equally interesting to the antiquary and the
+agriculturist. I salute you wholly, and am yours ever.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER IX.</H3>
+
+<P>DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGE DE BOSCHERVILLE. DUCLAIR.
+MARIVAUX. THE ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC.</P>
+
+<P><EM>May</EM>, 1818.</P>
+
+<P>MY DEAR FRIEND.</P>
+
+<P>In spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian
+attractions, the CITY OF ROUEN must be quitted--and I am about to
+pursue my route more in the character of an independent traveller.
+No more <EM>Diligence</EM>, or <EM>Conducteur</EM>. I have hired a
+decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, and a yet more promising
+postilion: and have already made a delightfully rural migration.
+Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhanging roofs,
+narrow streets, cracking whips, the never- ceasing noise of carts
+and carriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses of
+population:--Adieu!--and in their stead, welcome be the winding
+road, the fertile meadow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the
+broad and sweeping Seine!</P>
+
+<P>Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten
+and eleven, A.M. the rattling of horses&#39; hoofs, and the echoes
+of a postilion&#39;s whip, were heard within the court-yard of the
+<EM>Hôtel Vatel</EM>. Monsieur, Madame, Jacques--and the whole
+fraternity of domestics, were on the alert-- &quot;pour faire les
+adieux à Messieurs les Anglois.&quot; This Jacques deserves
+somewhat of a particular notice. He is the prime minister of the
+Hôtel Vatel.<A name="fnref_78"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_78">78</A> A somewhat <EM>uncomfortable</EM> detention in
+England for five years, in the character of &quot;prisoner of
+war,&quot; has made him master of a pretty quick and ready
+utterance of common-place phrases in our language; and he is not a
+little proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I
+consider him quite a phenomenon in his way; and it is right you
+should know that he affords a very fair specimen of a sharp,
+clever, French servant. His bodily movements are nearly as quick as
+those of his tongue. He rises, as well as his brethren, by five in
+the morning; and the testimonies of this early activity are quickly
+discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats, singing French
+airs, and scolding the boot-boy. He rarely retires to rest before
+mid-night; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round of
+occupation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to be
+conscious of it--declaring that &quot;the English make him saucy,
+but that naturally he is very civil.&quot; He always speaks of
+human beings in the <EM>neuter</EM> gender; and to a question
+whether such a one has been at the Hotel, he replies, &quot;I have
+not seen <EM>it</EM> to-day.&quot; I am persuaded he is a
+thoroughly honest creature; and considering the pains which are
+taken to spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and
+propriety he conducts himself.</P>
+
+<P>About eleven o&#39;clock, we sprung forward, at a smart trot,
+towards the barriers by which we had entered Rouen. Our postilion
+was a thorough master of his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed
+to know no cessation from action. The steeds, perfectly Norman,
+were somewhat fiery; and we rattled along the streets, (for the
+<EM>chaussé</EM> never causes the least abatement of pace with the
+French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand rare sights
+ere we reached Havre--equally the limits of our journey, and of our
+contract with the owner of the cabriolet. That accomplished
+antiquary M. Le Prevost, whose name you have often heard, had
+furnished me with so dainty a bill of fare, or carte de voyage;
+that I began to consider each hour lost which did not bring us in
+contact with some architectural relic of antiquity, or some
+elevated position--whence the wandering Seine and wooded heights of
+the adjacent country might be surveyed with equal advantage.</P>
+
+<P>You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon
+something like a similar expedition:--when the morning has been
+fair, the sun bright, the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear.
+In such moments how the ardour of hope takes possession of
+one!--How the heart warms, and the conversation flows! The barriers
+are approached; we turn to the left, and commence our journey in
+good earnest. Previously to gaining the first considerable height,
+you pass the village of <EM>Bapeaume</EM>. This village is
+exceedingly picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is
+enlivened by a rapid rivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine
+direction, into the Seine. You now begin to ascend a very
+commanding eminence; at the top of which are scattered some of
+those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste. Catharine. The
+road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed; and dismounting, we let
+our steeds breathe freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Our
+first halting-place, according to the instructions of M. Le
+Prevost, was <EM>St. George de Boscherville</EM>; an ancient abbey
+established in the twelfth century, This abbey is situated about
+three French leagues from Rouen. Our route thither, from the summit
+of the hill which we had just ascended, lay along a road skirted by
+interminable orchards now in full bloom. The air was perfumed to
+excess by the fragrance of these blossoms. The apple and pear were
+beautifully conspicuous; and as the sky became still more serene,
+and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it
+is impossible to conceive any thing more balmy and genial than was
+this lovely day. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly--when
+we reached the village of <EM>Boscherville</EM>; where stands the
+CHURCH; the chief remaining relic of this once beautiful abbey. We
+surveyed the west front very leisurely, and thought it an extremely
+beautiful specimen of the architecture of the twelfth and
+thirteenth centuries; for certainly there are some portions more
+ancient than others. A survey of the chapter-house filled me with
+mingled sorrow and delight: sorrow, that the Revolution and a
+modern cotton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its original
+character; and delight, that the portions which remained were of
+such beautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone,
+being of a very close-grained quality, is absolutely as white and
+sound as if it had been just cut from the quarry. The room, where a
+parcel of bare-legged girls and boys were working the respective
+machineries, had a roof of the most delicate construction.<A name=
+"fnref_79"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_79">79</A></P>
+
+<P>The very sound of a <EM>Monastery</EM> made me curious to
+examine the disposition of the building. Accordingly, I followed my
+guide through suites of apartments, up divers stone stair-cases,
+and along sundry corridors. I noticed the dormitories with due
+attention, and of course inquired eagerly for the LIBRARY:--but the
+shelves only remained--either the fear or the fury of the
+Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing in the
+shape of a <EM>book</EM>. The whole was painted white. I counted
+eleven perpendicular divisions; and, from the small distances
+between the upper shelves, there must have been a very considerable
+number of <EM>duodecimos</EM>. The titles of the respective classes
+of the library were painted in white letters upon a dark-blue
+ground, at top. <EM>Bibles</EM> occupied the first division, and
+the <EM>Fathers</EM> the second: but it should seem that equal
+importance was attached to the works of <EM>Heretics</EM> as to
+those called <EM>Litterae Humaniores</EM>--for each had a division
+of equal magnitude.</P>
+
+<P>On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the
+building, the eye rests entirely upon what had once been fruitful
+orchards, abundant kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in
+England, this spot, rich by nature, and desirable from its
+proximity to a great city, would, ere forty moons had waned, have
+grown up into beauty and fertility, and expanded into luxuriance of
+condition.</P>
+
+<P>The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On
+looking at my instructions I found that we had to stop to examine
+the remains of an old castle at <EM>Delafontaine</EM>--about two
+English miles from <EM>St. George de Boscherville</EM>. These
+remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, if I may so
+speak; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous: for a few
+broken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a
+stone chimney-piece of very curious construction and ornament. On
+observing a large cavity or loop-hole, about half way up the outer
+wall, I gained it by means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from
+thence surveyed the landscape before me. Here, having for some time
+past lost sight of the Seine, I caught a fine bold view of the
+sweep of that majestic river, now becoming broader and
+broader--while, to the left, softly tinted by distance, appeared
+the beautiful old church we had just quitted: the verdure of the
+hedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the
+ruddy blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. I
+admit, however, that this delicious morceau of landscape was
+greatly indebted, for its enchanting effect, to the blue splendour
+of the sky, and the soft temperature of the air; while the
+fragrance of every distended blossom added much to the
+gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descend from this
+elevation; and to think of reaching Duclair.</P>
+
+<P>DUCLAIR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine,
+which has now an absolute lake-like appearance. We stopped at the
+auberge to rest our horses; and I commenced a discourse with the
+master of the inn and his daughter; the latter, a very
+respectable-looking and well-behaved young woman of about
+twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large crackling
+wood-fire to dress a fish called the <EM>Alose</EM>, for the
+passengers of the <EM>diligence</EM>--who were expected within half
+an hour. The French think they can never <EM>butter</EM> their
+victuals sufficiently; and it would have produced a spasmodic
+affection in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seen the
+enormous piece of butter which this active young
+<EM>cuisinière</EM> thought necessary to put into the pot in which
+the &#39;<EM>Alose</EM>&#39; was to be boiled. She laughed at the
+surprise I expressed; and added &quot;qu&#39;on ne peut rien faire
+dans la cuisine sans le beurre.&quot; You ought to know, by the by,
+that the <EM>Alose</EM>, something like our <EM>mackerel</EM> in
+flavour, is a large and delicious fish; and that we were always
+anxious to bespeak it at the table-d&#39;hôte at Rouen. Extricated
+from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought upon
+table, it forms not only a rich, but a very substantial dish.</P>
+
+<P>I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of the
+door-- enjoying the breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the
+master of the place. Perceiving this, the landlord approached, and
+addressed me with a pleasant degree of familiarity. &quot;You are
+from London, then, Sir?&quot; &quot;I am.&quot; &quot;Ah Sir, I
+never think of London but with the most painful sensations.&quot;
+&quot;How so?&quot; &quot;Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker
+who died in that city before the Revolution. He was in partnership
+with an English gentleman. Can you possibly advise and assist me
+upon the subject?&quot; I told him that my advice and assistance
+were literally not worth a sous; but that, such as they were, he
+was perfectly welcome to both. &quot;Your daughter Sir, is not
+married?&quot;--&quot;Non, Monsieur, elle n&#39;est pas encore
+épousée: mais je lui dis qu&#39;elle ne sera jamais
+<EM>heureuse</EM> avant qu&#39;elle le soit.&quot; The daughter,
+who had overheard the conversation, came forward, and looking
+archly over her shoulder, replied--&quot;ou <EM>malheureuse</EM>,
+mon père!&quot; A sort of truism, expressed by her with singular
+epigrammatic force, to which there was no making any reply.</P>
+
+<P>Do you remember, my dear friend; that exceedingly cold
+winter&#39;s night, when, for lack of other book-entertainment, we
+took it into our heads to have a rummage among the <EM>Scriptores
+Historiae Normannorum</EM> of DUCHESNE?--and finding therein many
+pages occupied by <EM>Gulielmus Gemeticensis</EM>, we bethought
+ourselves that we would have recourse to the valuable folio volume
+yeleped <EM>Neustria Pia</EM>:--where we presently seemed to hold
+converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of certain
+venerable establishments! I then little imagined that it would ever
+fall to my lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts
+of the Abbey of Jumieges;--or rather, of the ruins of what was once
+not less distinguished, as a school of learning, than admired for
+its wealth and celebrity as a monastic establishment. Yes, my
+friend, I have seen and visited the ruins of this Abbey; and I seem
+to live &quot;mihi carior&quot; in consequence.</P>
+
+<P>But I know your love of method--and that you will be in wrath if
+I skip from <EM>Duclair</EM> to JUMIEGES ere the horses have
+carried us a quarter of a league upon the route. To the left of
+<EM>Duclair</EM>, and also washed by the waters of the Seine,
+stands <EM>Marivaux</EM>; a most picturesque and highly cultivated
+spot. And across the Seine, a little lower down, is the beautiful
+domain of <EM>La Mailleraye</EM>;--where are hanging gardens, and
+jets d&#39;eaux, and flower-woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled
+meadows--for there lives and occasionally revels <EM>La
+Marquise</EM>.... I might have been not only a spectator of her
+splendor, but a participator of her hospitality; for my
+often-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a
+letter of introduction to her. What was to be done? One cannot be
+everywhere in one day, or in one journey:--so, gravely balancing
+the ruins of still life against the attractions of animated
+society, I was unchivalrous enough to prefer the former--and
+working myself up into a sort of fantasy, of witnessing the
+spectered forms of DAGOBERT and CLOVIS, (the fabled founders of the
+Abbey) I resolutely turned my back upon <EM>La Mailleraye</EM>, and
+as steadily looked forwards to JUMIEGES. We ascended very
+sensibly--then striking into a sort of bye-road, were told that we
+should quickly reach the place of our destination. A fractured
+capital, and broken shaft, of the late Norman time, left at random
+beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak the vicinity of the abbey. We
+then gained a height; whence, looking straight forward, we caught
+the first glance of the spires, or rather of the west end towers,
+of the Abbey of Jumieges.<A name="fnref_80"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_80">80</A> &quot;La voilà,
+&quot;Monsieur,&quot;--exclaimed the postilion--increasing his
+speed and multiplying the nourishes of his whip--&quot;voilà la
+belle Abbaye!&quot;</P>
+
+<P>We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some
+neat houses to the right and left, we drove to a snug auberge,
+evidently a portion of some of the outer buildings, or of the
+chapter-house, attached to the Abbey. A large gothic roof, and
+central pillar, upon entering, attest the ancient character of the
+place.<A name="fnref_81"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_81">81</A>
+The whole struck us as having been formerly of very great
+dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny afternoon, and the
+villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. &quot;Voilà
+Messieurs les Anglois, qui viennent voir l&#39;Abbaye--mais
+effectivement il n&#39;y a rien à voir.&quot; I told the landlady
+the object of our visit. She procured us a guide and a key: and
+within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. I can never
+forget that entrance. The interior, it is true, has not the magical
+effect, or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first
+view of <EM>Tintern</EM> abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there
+is necessarily more to attract attention. Like Tintern also, it is
+unroofed--yet this unroofing has proceeded from a different cause:
+of which presently. The side aisles present you with a short
+flattened arch: the nave has none: but you observe a long
+pilaster-like, or alto-rilievo column, of slender dimensions,
+running from bottom to top, with a sort of Roman capital. The
+arched cieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the
+eastern extremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and
+of accident. The latter however had triumphed over the former: but
+for <EM>accident</EM> you must read <EM>revolution</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning; and we
+were getting far into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather,
+and the sun became occasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon
+a grassy hillock, and began to prepare for dinner. To the left of
+us lay a huge pile of fragments of pillars and groinings of
+arches--the effects of recent havoc: to the right, within three
+yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated AGNES SOREL,
+Mistress of Charles VII, lay entombed:<A name="fnref_82"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_82">82</A>--not a relic of mausoleum now
+marking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the
+choicest efforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to</P>
+
+<P class="quote">Breathe a prayer for her soul--and pass on!</P>
+
+<P>What a contrast to the present aspect of things!--to the mixed
+rubbish and wild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh
+covered! The mistress of the inn having furnished us with napkins
+and tumblers, we partook of our dinner, surrounded by the objects
+just described, with no ordinary sensations. The air now became
+oppressive; when, looking through the few remaining unglazed
+mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grew blacker
+and blacker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears.
+The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially; and as the
+storm neared us, it floated as it were round the abbey,
+affording--by means of its purple, dark colour, contrasted with the
+pale tint of the walls,--one of the most beautiful painter-like
+effects imaginable. In an instant almost--and as if touched by the
+wand of a mighty necromancer--the whole scene became metamorphosed.
+The thunder growled, but only growled; and the threatening phalanx
+of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away, and melted into the quiet
+uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Dinner being
+dispatched, I rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins
+which had survived ... not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of
+the present owner of the soil--who is a <EM>rich</EM> man, living
+at Rouen--and who loves to dispose of any portion of the stone,
+whether standing or prostrate, for the sake of the lucre, however
+trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the whole corporation
+of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at their head, ought to stand
+between this ruthless, rich man, and the abbey--the victim of his
+brutal avarice and want of taste.<A name="fnref_83"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_83">83</A></P>
+
+<P>The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the bottom
+of some gently undulating hills, within two or three hundred yards
+of the Seine. The river here runs gently, in a serpentine
+direction, at the foot of wood- covered hills--and all seemed, from
+our elevated station, indicative of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of
+prosperity,--all--save the mournful and magnificent remains of the
+venerable abbey whereon we gazed! In fact, this abbey exists only
+as a shell. I descended, strolled about the village, and mingled in
+the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach of
+evening--and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering,
+in the open air. Perceiving that I was anxious to gain information,
+they flocked around me-- and from one man, in particular, I
+obtained exact intelligence about the havoc which had been
+committed during the Revolution upon the abbey, The roof had been
+battered down for the sake of the <EM>lead</EM>--to make bullets;
+the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into other
+destructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold
+to some speculators in a cannon-foundery at Rouen.<A name=
+"fnref_84"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_84">84</A> The
+revolutionary mania had even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who
+must be considered as</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">....damned to everlasting fame,</P>
+
+<P>had been a monk of the monastery; and as soon as he had attained
+the headship of it, he disposed of every movable piece of
+furniture, to gratify the revolutionary pack which were daily
+howling at the gates of the abbey for entrance! Nor could he plead
+<EM>compulsion</EM> as an excuse. He seemed to enjoy the work of
+destruction, of which he had the uncontrouled direction. But enough
+of this wretch.</P>
+
+<P>The next resting-place was CAUDEBEC: a very considerable
+village, or rather a small town. You go down a steep descent, on
+entering it by the route we came. As you look about, there are
+singular appearances on all sides--of houses, and hanging gardens,
+and elaborately cut avenues--upon summits, declivities, and on the
+plain. But the charm of the view, at least to my old-fashioned
+feelings, was a fine old gothic church, and a very fine spire of
+what <EM>appeared</EM> to belong to another. As the evening had
+completely set in, I resolved to reserve my admiration of the place
+till the morrow.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER X.</H3>
+
+<P>CAUDEBEC. LILLEBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKARVILLE. MONTMORENCI CASTLE.
+HAVRE DE GRACE.</P>
+
+<P>My last concluded with our entrance into Caudebec. The present
+opens with a morning scene at the same place. For a miracle I was
+stirring before nine. The church was the first object of
+attraction. For the size of the place, it is really a noble
+structure: perhaps of the early part of the sixteenth, or latter
+part of the fifteenth century.<A name="fnref_85"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_85">85</A> I speak of the exterior generally, and
+of a great portion of the interior. A little shabby green- baise
+covered door (as usual) was half open, and I entered with no
+ordinary expectations of gratification. The painted glass seemed
+absolutely to warm the place--so rich and varied were its colours.
+There is a great abundance of it, and especially of figures of
+family-groups kneeling--rather small, but with great appearance of
+portrait-like fidelity. They are chiefly of the first half of the
+sixteenth century: and I own that, upon gazing at these charming
+specimens of ancient painting upon glass, I longed to fix an artist
+before every window, to bear away triumphantly, in a portfolio of
+elephantine dimensions, a faithful copy of almost every thing I
+saw. In some of the countenances, I fancied I traced the pencil of
+LUCAS CRANACH-- and even of HANS HOLBEIN.</P>
+
+<P>This church has numerous side chapels, and figures of
+patron-saints. The entombment of Christ in white marble, (at the
+end of the chapel of the Virgin,) is rather singular; inasmuch as
+the figure of Christ itself is ancient, and exceedingly fine in
+anatomical expression; but the usual surrounding figures are
+modern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive. I noted one
+mural monument, to the memory of <EM>Guillaume Tellier</EM>, which
+was dated 1484.<A name="fnref_86"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_86">86</A> Few churches have more highly interested me than
+this at Caudebec.<A name="fnref_87"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_87">87</A> From the church I strolled to the <EM>Place</EM>,
+where stood the caffé, by the banks of the Seine. The morning view
+of this scene perfectly delighted me. Nothing can be more
+picturesque. The river cannot be much less than a mile in width,
+and it makes a perfect bend in the form of a crescent. On one side,
+that on which the village stands, are walks and gardens through
+which peep numerous white villas--and on the other are meadows,
+terminating in lofty rising grounds--feathered with coppice-wood
+down to the very water&#39;s edge. This may be considered, in fact,
+only a portion of the vast <EM>Forest de Brotonne</EM>, which rises
+in wooded majesty on the opposite heights. The spirit and the
+wealth of our countrymen would make Caudebec one of the most
+enchanting summer-residences in the world. The population of the
+town is estimated at about five thousand.</P>
+
+<P>Judge of my astonishment, when, on going out of doors, I saw the
+river in a state of extreme agitation: the whole mass of water
+rising perpendicularly, as it were, and broad rippling waves
+rolling over each other. It was the <EM>coming in of the
+tide</EM>.... and within a quarter of an hour it appeared to have
+risen upwards of three feet. You may remember that, in our own
+country, the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenomenon; and I have
+seen the river at Glocester rise <EM>at once</EM> to the height of
+eight or ten feet, throwing up a shower of foam from the gradually
+narrowing bed of the river, and causing all the craft, great and
+small, to rise up as if by magic, and to appear upon a level with
+the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, although similar in kind, was
+not so in degree; for it rose gradually yet most visibly--and
+within half an hour, the elevation could not have been less than
+<EM>seven</EM> or <EM>eight</EM> feet.</P>
+
+<P>Having walked for some time on the heights of the town, with
+which I was much gratified, I returned to my humble auberge,
+ordered the cabriolet to be got ready, and demanded the
+reckoning:--which, considering that I was not quite at an
+hôtel-royale, struck me as being far from moderate. Two old women,
+of similar features and age, presented themselves as I was getting
+into the carriage: one was the mistress, and the other the fille de
+chambre. &quot;Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n&#39;oubliez
+pas, je vous prie, la fille-de-chambre--rappellez-vous que vos
+souliers ont été supérieurement décrottés.&quot; I took out a franc
+to remunerate the supposed fille-de-chambre--but was told it was
+the <EM>mistress</EM>. &quot;N&#39;importe, Monsieur, c&#39;est à
+ce moment que je suis fille-de-chambre--quand vous serez parti, je
+serai la maitresse.&quot; The postilion seemed to enjoy this
+repartee as much as ourselves.</P>
+
+<P>I was scarcely out of the town half a mile, when I began to
+ascend. I found myself quickly in the middle of those rising
+grounds which are seen from the promenade or <EM>Place du
+Caffé</EM>, and could not look without extraordinary gratification
+upon the beautiful character of spring in its advanced state. The
+larch was even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees were
+perfectly clothed with foliage, of a tender yet joyous tint: the
+chestnut was gorgeously in bloom; the lime and beech were beginning
+to give abundant promise of their future luxuriance--while the
+lowlier tribes of laburnum and box, with their richly clad
+branches, covered the ground beneath entirely from view. The apple
+and pear blossoms still continued to variegate the wide sweep of
+foliage, and to fill the air with their delicious perfume. It might
+be Switzerland in miniature--or it might not. Only this I
+know--that it seemed as though one could live embosomed and
+enchanted in such a wilderness of sweets--reading the
+<EM>fabliaux</EM> of the old Norman bards till the close of human
+existence!</P>
+
+<P>I found myself on a hard, strait, chalky old road--evidently
+Roman: and in due time perceived and entered the town of
+LILLEBONNE. But the sky had become overcast: soft and small rain
+was descending, and an unusual gloom prevailed ... when I halted,
+agreeably to my instructions, immediately before the gate of the
+ancient <EM>Castle</EM>. Venerable indeed is this Norman castle,
+and extensive are the ruins which have survived. I have a perfect
+recollection how it peeped out upon me--through the light leaf of
+the poplar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies close to the
+road, on the left. An old round tower, apparently of the time of
+William the Conqueror, very soon attracts your attention. The
+stones are large, and the interstices are also very considerable.
+It was here, says a yet current report, that William assembled the
+Barons of Normandy, and the invasion of England was determined
+upon. Such a spot therefore strikes an English beholder with no
+ordinary emotions. I alighted; sent the cabriolet to the inn, and
+wished both postilion and horses to get their dinners without
+delay. For myself, I had resolved to reserve my appetite till I
+reached <EM>Bolbec</EM>; and there was food enough before me of a
+different description, to exercise my intellectual digestion for at
+least the next hour. Knocking at the massive portals, I readily
+obtained admittance.</P>
+
+<P>The area, entirely a grass-plat, was occupied by several cows.
+In front, were evidently the ruins of a large chapel or
+church--perhaps of the XIVth century. The outer face of the walls
+went deeply and perpendicularly down to the bottom of a dry fosse;
+and the right angle portion of the building was covered with garden
+ground, where the owner showed us some peas which he boasted he
+should have at his table within five days. I own I thought he was
+very likely to carry his boast into execution; for finer
+vegetables, or a finer bed of earth, I had scarcely ever beheld.
+How things, my dear friend, are changed from their original
+character and destination! &quot;But the old round tower,&quot; say
+you!--To &quot;the old round tower&quot; then let us go. The
+stair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. I reached the first floor,
+or circular room, and noticed the construction of the window
+seats--all of rough, solid, and massive stone. I ascended to the
+second floor; which, if I remember rightly, was strewn with a
+portion of the third floor--that had fallen in from sheer decay.
+Great must have been the crash--as the fragments were huge, and
+widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing upon the outer wall;
+through a loop-hole window, I gazed around with equal wonder and
+delight. The wall of this castle could not be less than ten feet in
+thickness. A young woman, the shepherdess of the spot, attended as
+guide.</P>
+
+<P>&quot;What is that irregular rude mound, or wall of earth, in
+the centre of which children are playing?&quot; &quot;It is the
+<EM>old Roman Theatre</EM>, Sir.&quot; I immediately called to mind
+M. Le Prevost&#39;s instructions--and if I could have borrowed the
+wings of a spirit, I should have instantly alighted upon the
+spot--but it was situated without the precincts of the old castle
+and its appurtenances, and a mortal leap would have been attended
+with a mortal result. &quot;Have you many English who visit this
+spot?&quot; said I to my guide.-- &quot;Scarcely <EM>any</EM>,
+Sir--it is a frightful place--full of desolation and
+sadness..&quot; replied she. Again I gazed around, and in the
+distance, through an aperture in the orchard trees, saw the little
+fishing village of <EM>Quillebeuf</EM>,<A name="fnref_88"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_88">88</A> quite buried, as it were, in the
+waters of the Seine. An arm of the river meanders towards
+Lillebonne. Having gratified my picturesque and antiquarian
+propensities, from this elevated situation, I retrod, with more
+difficulty than toil, my steps down the stair-case. A second stroll
+about the area, and along the skirts of the wall, was sufficient to
+convince me only--how slight and imperfect had been my survey!</P>
+
+<P>On quitting the portal through which I entered, and bidding
+adieu to my Shepherdess and guide, I immediately hastened towards
+the Roman Theatre.<A name="fnref_89"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_89">89</A> The town of Lillebonne has a very picturesque
+appearance from the old mound, or raised terrace, along the outer
+walls of the castle. In five minutes I mingled with the school boys
+who were amusing themselves within the ruins of all that is left of
+this probably once vast and magnificent old theatre. It is only by
+clearing away a great quantity of earth, with which these ruins are
+covered, that you can correctly ascertain their character and state
+of preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remark that the walls had
+much swerved from their original perpendicularity,--and that there
+was much irregularity in the laying of the bricks among the stones.
+But time, design, and accident, have each in turn (in all
+probability) so contributed to decompose, deface, and alter the
+original aspect of the building, that there is no forming a correct
+conjecture as to its ancient form. Earth, grass, trees, flowers,
+and weeds, have taken almost entire possession of some low and
+massive outer walls; so that the imagination has full play to
+supply all deficiencies which appear to the eye.</P>
+
+<P>From the whole of this interesting spot I retreated--with mixed
+sensations of melancholy and surprise--to the little auberge of the
+<EM>Three Moors</EM>, in the centre of the town. It had begun to
+rain smartly as we took shelter in the kitchen; where, for the
+first time since leaving England, I saw a display of utensils which
+might have vied with our own, or even with a Dutch interior, for
+neatness and order of disposition. Some of the dishes might have
+been as ancient as--not the old round Tower--but as the last
+English Duke of Normandy who might have banquetted there. The whole
+was in high polish and full display. On my complimenting the good
+<EM>Aubergiste</EM> upon so creditable a sight, she laughed, and
+replied briskly--&quot;Ce n&#39;est rien, ceci: Pentecôte est tout
+près, et donc vous verrez, Monsieur!&quot;--It should seem that
+Whitsuntide was the season for a general household purification.
+Some of her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: but she had
+bought it, in the scramble which took place at the dispersion and
+destruction of the movables there, during the Revolution. I
+recommend all travellers to take a lunch, and enjoy a bottle of vin
+ordinaire, at <EM>Les Trois-Nègres.</EM> I was obliged to summon up
+all my stock of knowledge in polite phraseology, in order to
+decline a plate of soup. &quot;It was delicious above every
+thing&quot;--&quot;but I had postponed taking dinner till we got to
+Bolbec.&quot; &quot; Bon--vous y trouverez un hôtel superbe.&quot;
+The French are easily pleased; and civility is so cheap and current
+a coin abroad, that I wish our countrymen would make use of it a
+little more frequently than they appear to do. I started about two
+for Bolbec.</P>
+
+<P>The rain continued during the whole of my route thither; but it
+did not prevent me from witnessing a land of plenty and of
+picturesque beauty on all sides. Indeed it is scarcely possible to
+conceive a more rich and luxuriant state of culture. To the left,
+about half a league from Lillebonne, I passed the domain of a once
+wealthy, and extremely extensive abbey. They call it the <EM>Abbey
+of Valasse.</EM> A long rambling bare stone wall, and portions of a
+deserted ruin, kept in sight for full half an English mile. The
+immediate approach to BOLBEC is that of the entrance to a modern
+and flourishing trading town, which seems to be beginning to
+recover from the effects of the Revolution. After Rouen, and even
+Caudebec, it has a stiff modernized air. I drove to the principal
+inn, opposite the church, and bespoke dinner and a bed. The church
+is perfectly, modern, and equally heavy and large. Crowds of people
+were issuing from <EM>Vespers</EM>, when, ascending a flight of
+steps, (for it is built on ground considerably above the
+ground-floor of the inn) I resolved to wait for the final departure
+of the congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the
+interior, while dinner was getting ready.</P>
+
+<P>The sexton was a perfect character in his way; old, shrewd,
+communicative, and civil. There were several confessionals.
+&quot;What--you confess here pretty much?&quot; &quot;Yes, Sir; but
+chiefly females, and among them many widows.&quot; I had said
+nothing to provoke this ungallant reply. &quot;In respect to the
+<EM>sacrament</EM>, what is the proportion between the
+communicants, as to sex?&quot; &quot;Sir, there are one hundred
+women to twelve men.&quot; I wish I could say that this
+disproportion were confined to <EM>France</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Quitting this heavy and ugly, but large and commodious fabric, I
+sought the inn and dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned
+professor in his art, and the produce of his skill was equally
+excellent and acceptable. I had scarcely finished my repast, and
+the <EM>Gruyere</EM> cheese and nuts yet lingered upon the table,
+when the soft sounds of an organ, accompanied by a youthful voice,
+saluted my ears in a very pleasing manner. &quot; C&#39;est LE
+PAUVRE PETIT SAVOYARD, Monsieur&quot;--exclaimed the waiter--&quot;
+Vous allez entendre un air touchant! Ah, le pauvre
+petit!&quot;--&quot;Comment ça?&quot; &quot;Monsieur, il n&#39;a ni
+père ni mère; mais pour le chant--oh Dieu, il n&#39;y a personne
+qui chante comme le pauvre petit Savoyard!&quot; I was well
+disposed to hear the song, and to admit the truth of the
+waiter&#39;s observation. The little itinerant stopped opposite the
+door, and sung the following air:--</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Bon jour, Bon soir</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Je peindrai sans
+détour</SPAN><BR>
+ Tout l&#39;emploi de ma vie:<BR>
+ C&#39;est de dire <EM>bon jour</EM><BR>
+ Et <EM>bon soir</EM> tour-à-tour.<BR>
+ <EM>Bon Jour</EM> à mon amie,<BR>
+ Lorsque je vais la voir.<BR>
+ Mais au fat qui m&#39;ennuie,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind8"><EM>Bon soir</EM>.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2"><EM>Bon jour</EM> franc
+troubadour,</SPAN><BR>
+ Qui chantez la bombance;<BR>
+ La paix et les beaux jours;<BR>
+ Bacchus et les amours.<BR>
+ Qu&#39;un rimeur en démence<BR>
+ Vienne avec vous s&#39;asseoir,<BR>
+ Pour chanter la Romance,<BR>
+<SPAN class="ind8"><EM>Bon soir</EM>.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2"><EM>Bon jour</EM>, mon cher
+voisin,</SPAN><BR>
+ Chez vous la soif m&#39;entraîne:<BR>
+ <EM>Bonjour</EM>--si votre vin<BR>
+ Est de Beaune ou du Rhin;<BR>
+ Mon gosier va sans peine<BR>
+ Lui servir d&#39;entonnoir;<BR>
+ Mais s&#39;il est de Surêne,<BR>
+<SPAN class="ind8"><EM>Bon soir</EM>.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P>I know not how it was, but had the &quot;petit Savoyard&quot;
+possessed the cultivated voice of a chorister, I could not have
+listened to his notes with half the satisfaction with which I dwelt
+upon his history, as stated by the waiter. He had no sooner
+concluded and made his bow, than I bought the slender volume from
+which his songs had been chanted, and had a long gossip with him.
+He slung his organ upon his back, and &quot;ever and anon&quot;
+touching his hat, expressed his thankfulness, as much for the
+interest I had taken in his welfare, as for the trifling piece of
+silver which I slipt into his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the
+benches, placed on the outsides of the houses, were
+occupied--chiefly by females--to witness, it should seem, so novel
+and interesting a sight as an Englishman holding familiar discourse
+with a poor wandering Savoyard! My friend the sexton was among the
+spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared especially
+interested. &quot;Que le bon Dieu vous bénisse!&quot; exclaimed the
+Savoyard, as I bade him farewell. On pursuing my route for a stroll
+upon the heights near the town, I had occasion to pass these
+benches of spectators. The women, almost without any exception,
+inclined their heads by way of a gracious salute; and Monsieur
+<EM>le Sacristain</EM> pulled off his enormous cock&#39;d hat with
+the consequence of a drum-major. He appeared not to have forgotten
+the donation which he had received in the church. Continuing my
+pursuit, I gained an elevated situation: whence, looking down upon
+the spot where I had left the Savoyard, I observed him surrounded
+by the females--each and every one of them apparently convulsed
+with laughter! Even the little musician appeared to have forgotten
+his &quot;orphan state.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>The environs of <EM>Bolbec</EM>, especially in the upper part,
+are sufficiently picturesque. At least they are sufficiently
+fruitful: orchards, corn and pasture land--intermixed with meadows,
+upon which cotton was spread for bleaching--produced altogether a
+very interesting effect. The little hanging gardens, attached to
+labourer&#39;s huts, contributed to the beauty of the scene. A warm
+crimson sun-set seemed to envelope the coppice wood in a flame of
+gold. The road was yet reeking with moisture--and I retraced my
+steps, through devious and slippery paths, to the hôtel. Evening
+had set in: the sound of the Savoyard&#39;s voice was no longer
+heard: I ordered tea and candles, and added considerably to my
+journal before I went to bed. I rose at five; and before six the
+horses were harnessed to the cabriolet. Having obtained the
+necessary instructions for reaching <EM>Tancarville</EM>, (the
+ancient and proud seat of the MONTMORENCIS) I paid my reckoning,
+and left Bolbec. As I ascended a long and rather steep hill, and,
+looking to the right and left, saw every thing in a state of
+verdure and promise, I did all I could to persuade myself that the
+journey would be agreeable, and that the castle of Montmorenci
+could not fail to command admiration. I was now in the high and
+broad &quot;<EM>roúte royale</EM>&quot; to Havre le Grace; but had
+scarcely been a league upon it, when, looking at my instructions,
+we struck out of the high road, to the left, and followed a private
+one through flat and uninteresting arable land. I cannot tell how
+many turns were taken, or how many pretty little villages were
+passed-- till, after a long and gradual ascent, we came upon a
+height, flanked the greater part by coppice wood, through one
+portion of which--purposely kept open for the view--was seen at a
+distance a marvellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose
+grey and battered sides were lighted up with a pink colour from the
+morning sun) in the middle, as it were, of the
+<EM>Seine</EM>--which now really assumed an ocean-like appearance.
+In fact, these rocks were at a considerable distance, and appeared
+to be in the broadest part of the embouchure of that river. I
+halted the cabriolet; and gazed with unfeigned delight on this
+truly magnificent and fascinating scene!... for the larks were now
+mounting all around, and their notes, added to those of the
+&quot;songsters of the grove,&quot; produced an effect which I even
+preferred to that from the organ and voice of the &quot;pauvre
+petit Savoyard.&quot; The postboy partook of my rapture.
+&quot;Voilà, Monsieur, des rochers terriblement
+perpendiculiers--eh, quelle belle vue de la rivière, et du
+paysage!&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Leaving this brilliant picture, we turned rather to the left,
+and then found our descent proportionably gradual with the ascent.
+The Seine was now right before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through
+partial vistos, had enabled us to ascertain. Still
+<EM>Tancarville</EM> was deemed a terrible way off. First we were
+to go up, and then we were to go down--now to turn to the right,
+and afterwards to the left--a sort of
+<!-- [Greek: polla d'ananta katanta] -->
+&#960;&#959;&#955;&#955;&#945;
+&#948;'&#945;&#957;&#945;&#957;&#964;&#945;
+&#954;&#945;&#964;&#945;&#957;&#964;&#945;
+route--when a prepossessing young paysanne told the
+postilion, that, after passing through such a wood, we should reach
+an avenue, from the further end of which the castle of
+<EM>Montmorenci</EM> would be visible .. &quot;une petite lieue de
+distance.&quot; Every thing is &quot;une petite lieue!&quot; It is
+the answer to every question relating to distance. Though the
+league be double a German one, still it is &quot;une petite!&quot;
+Here however the paysanne happened to be right. We passed through
+the wood, gained the avenue, and from the further end saw--even yet
+towering in imposing magnitude--the far- famed <EM>Chateau de
+Montmorenci</EM>. It might be a small league off. I gained spirits
+and even strength at the sight: told the postilion to mend his
+pace--of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstration,
+while the echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer
+road now received us. Knolls of grass interwoven with moss, on the
+summits of which the beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems,
+now enclosed the road, which began to widen and to improve in
+condition. At length, turning a corner, a group of country people
+appeared--&quot;Est-ce ici la route de
+Tancarville?&quot;--&quot;Tancarville est tout près: c&#39;est là,
+où on voit la fumée des cheminées.&quot; Joyful intelligence! The
+post-boy increased his speed: The wheels seemed to move with a
+readier play: and in one minute and a half I was upon the beach of
+the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the only auberge in
+the village.</P>
+
+<P>I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in
+Rembrandt&#39;s pictures: and especially of those of his
+<EM>old</EM> characters. I wish you could have seen the old woman,
+of the name of <EM>Bucan</EM>, who came out of this same auberge to
+receive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye;
+keen features, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued
+mahogany tint; about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks,
+were all those harmonizing wrinkles which become old age--<EM>upon
+canvas</EM>--while, below her chin, communicating with a small and
+shrunken neck, was that sort of concavity, or dewlap, which
+painters delight to express with a minuteness of touch, and
+mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesque effect!
+This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spirits
+and of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who
+had visited her solitude this year. Her husband approached, but she
+soon ordered him &quot;to the right about&quot;--to prepare fuel,
+coffee, and eggs. I was promised the best breakfast that could be
+got in Normandy, in twenty minutes. The inn being sufficiently
+miserable, I was anxious for a ramble. The tide was now coming up,
+as at Caudebec; but the sweep and breadth of the river being, upon
+a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yet so
+obvious--although I am quite sure that all the flats, which I saw
+on my arrival as a bed of mud, were, within a quarter of an hour,
+wholly covered with the tide: and, looking up to the right, I
+perceived the perpendicular walls of <EM>Montmorenci Castle</EM> to
+be washed by the refluent wave. It was a sort of ocean in miniature
+before me. A few miserable fishing boats were moored upon the
+beach; while a small number of ill-clad and straggling villagers
+lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon the postboy
+and myself as beings dropt from the sky!</P>
+
+<P>On ascending a considerable elevation, I had the gratification
+of viewing <EM>Quillebeuf</EM> a little more nearly. It was almost
+immediately opposite: while, to the right, contemplating the wide
+sweep of the river towards its embouchure, I fancied that I could
+see <EM>Havre</EM>. The group of rocks, which had so charmed us on
+our journey, now assumed a different character. On descending, I
+could discover, although at a considerable distance, the old woman
+standing at the door of the auberge--apparently straining her eyes
+to catch a glimpse of us; and she was almost disposed to scold for
+having put her reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous
+a trial. The wood was blazing, and the room was almost filled by
+smoke--but a prolonged fast, and a stage of sixteen or eighteen
+miles, in a keen morning air, made Mr. Lewis and myself only think
+of allaying our hunger. In every public house, however mean, you
+see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering the plate. A
+dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee pot and cups of perfectly
+Brobdignagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent
+butter, formed the <EM>materiél</EM> of our breakfast. The postboy,
+having stabled and refreshed his horses, was regaling himself in
+the kitchen--but- how do you think he was regaling himself?--Truly,
+in stretching himself upon a bench, and reading, as old Ascham
+expresses it, &quot;a merry tale in Boccace.&quot; In other words,
+he was reading a French version of the Decameron of that celebrated
+author. Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of the
+general propensity of the common people to <EM>read</EM>--whether
+good or bad books ... but let us hope and believe the former. I
+left the bibliomaniacal postboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to
+visit the CASTLE ... the once proud and yet commanding residence of
+the family of MONTMORENCI.</P>
+
+<P>I ascended--with fresh energies imparted from my breakfast. The
+day grew soft, and bright, and exhilarating ... but alas! for the
+changes and chances of every thing in this transitory world. Where
+was the warder? He had ceased to blow his horn for many a long
+year. Where was the harp of the minstrel? It had perished two
+centuries ago, with the hand that had struck its chords. Where was
+the attendant guard?--or pursuivants--or men at arms? They had been
+swept from human existence, like the leaves of the old limes and
+beech trees by which the lower part of the building was surrounded.
+The moat was dry; the rampart was a ruin:--the rank grass grew
+within the area ... nor can I tell you how many relics of halls,
+banqueting rooms, and bed- rooms, with all the magnificent
+appurtenances of old castellated architecture, struck the eager eye
+with mixed melancholy and surprise! The singular half-circular, and
+half square, corner towers, hanging over the ever-restless wave,
+interested me exceedingly. The guide shewed me where the prisoners
+used to be kept--in a dungeon, apparently impervious to every
+glimmer of day-light, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to
+say at what period even the oldest part of the Castle of
+Montmorenci was built: but I saw nothing that seemed to be more
+ancient than the latter end of the fifteenth century.<A name=
+"fnref_90"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_90">90</A> Perhaps the
+greater portion may be of the beginning of the sixteenth; but,
+amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiring the painted
+borders, chiefly of a red colour, which run along the upper part of
+the walls, or wainscoats--giving indication not only of a good, but
+of a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of ornament was
+to be seen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of
+Jumieges? <EM>Here</EM>, indeed, they afforded evidence--an
+evidence, mingled with melancholy sensations on reflection--of the
+probable state of magnificence which once reigned throughout the
+castle. Between the corner towers, upon that part which runs
+immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace, now
+converted into garden ground--which commands an immediate and
+extensive view of the embouchure of the river. It is the property
+of a speculator, residing at Havre.</P>
+
+<P>The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which
+the castle is built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the
+inn), I had nothing to do but to step in, and push forward for
+<EM>Havre</EM>. Retracing the road through which we came, we darted
+into the <EM>Route Royale</EM>, and got upon one of the noblest
+high roads in France. Between <EM>Tancarville</EM> and
+<EM>Havre</EM> lie <EM>Hocher</EM> and <EM>Harfleur</EM>; each
+almost at the water&#39;s edge. I regretted I could not see the
+former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to the right,
+some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country
+villas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur is
+exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the
+town, the exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon
+me. Few places, I believe, for its dimensions, have been more
+celebrated in the middle ages than Harfleur. The Seine to the left
+becomes broader and bolder; and, before you, beneath some wooded
+heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing gives indication of commerce and
+prosperity as you gain upon the town. The houses increase in number
+and respectability of appearance--&quot;Voyez-vous là, Monsieur, à
+droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed the
+charioteer)--&quot;C&#39;est la où demeurent Messieurs vos
+compatriotes: ma foi, ils ont un joli gout.&quot; The first glance
+upon these stone houses confirmed the sagacity of the postilion.
+They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean; while the
+surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.
+Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in
+his description of such trout-streams as were those before us.</P>
+
+<P>But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are
+seen in the commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from
+all quarters of the globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It
+is a scene of bustle, of business, and variety; and perfectly
+English. What a contrast to the gloomy solitude of Montmorenci! The
+outer and inner gates are passed. <EM>Diligences</EM> issue from
+every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns,
+from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all
+sides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hôtel of
+the <EM>Aigle d&#39;Or,</EM><A name="fnref_91"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_91">91</A> kept by Justin, and considered to be the best.
+We were just in time for the table d&#39;hôte, and to bespeak
+excellent beds. Travellers were continually arriving and departing.
+What life and animation!... We sat down upwards of forty to dinner:
+and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settled for the cabriolet,
+and bade the postboy adieu!-- nor can I suppress my feelings in
+saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more than I
+had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XI</H3>
+
+<P>HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Caen, May</EM>, 1818.</P>
+
+<P>Well, my friend!... I have at length visited the interior of the
+Abbey of St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE
+CONQUEROR and of MATHILDA his wife. But as you dearly love the
+gossip of a travelling journal, I shall take up the thread of my
+narrative from the place in which I last addressed
+you:--particularly as our route hither was marked by some
+circumstances worthy of recital. First, however, for
+<EM>Havre</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the
+time of my residence could not be extended. It happened to be a
+fine afternoon, and I took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and
+ramparts.<A name="fnref_92"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_92">92</A> The town was full of animation--whether relating to
+business or to pleasure. For the former, you must visit the quays;
+for the latter, you must promenade the high street, and more
+especially the <EM>Boulevards</EM>, towards the heights. The sun
+shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling,
+and bawling human creatures.. who were in constant locomotion in
+this latter place.</P>
+
+<P>What a difference between the respective appearances of the
+quays of Dieppe and Havre? Although even <EM>here</EM> things would
+assume a rubbishing and littered aspect compared with the quays at
+<EM>Liverpool</EM> or at <EM>Hull</EM>, yet it must be admitted,
+for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quays of Havre
+make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing,
+sleeping, sitting, and of course talking <EM>à pleine gorge</EM>,
+in groups without end--but no drunkenness!.. not even an English
+oath saluted my ear. The Southampton packets land their crews at
+Havre. I saw the arrival of one of these packets; and was cruel
+enough to contrast the animated and elastic spirits of a host of
+French <EM>laqnais de place</EM>, tradespeople, &amp;c.--attacking
+the passengers with cards of their address--with the feeble
+movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their
+attack.</P>
+
+<P>From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are
+flanked by broad ditches--of course plentifully supplied with
+water; and passing over the drawbridge, by which all carriages
+enter the town--and which absolutely trembles as if about to sink
+beneath you, as the <EM>diligence</EM> rolls over it.--I made for
+the boulevards and tea-gardens; to which, business being well nigh
+over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hundreds and by thousands.
+A fine afternoon throws every thing into &quot;good
+keeping&quot;--as the artists say. The trees, and meadows, and
+upper lands, were not only bright with the sun-beam, but the human
+countenance was lighted up with gladness. The occupations partook
+of this joyful character. Accordingly there was dancing and singing
+on all sides; a little beyond, appeared to sit a group of
+philosophers, or politicians, upon a fantastically cut seat,
+beneath laburnums streaming with gold; while, still further,
+gradually becoming invisible from the foliage and winding path,
+strolled pairs in more gentle discourse! Meanwhile the whoop and
+halloo of school-boys, in rapid and ceaseless evolutions, resounded
+through the air, and heightened the gratification of the
+scene....</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">And young and old came out to play<BR>
+ Upon a sun-shine holiday.</P>
+
+<P>Gaining a considerable ascent, I observed knolls of rich
+verdure, with fine spreading trees, and elegant mansions, to be in
+the foreground--in the middle-ground, stood the town of Havre:--in
+the distance, rolled and roared the expansive ocean! The sun was
+visibly going to rest; but his departing beams yet sparkled upon
+the more prominent points of the picture. There was no time for
+finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple of hours,
+on this interesting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge,
+and prepared for objects of <EM>still</EM> life; in other words,
+for the examination of what might be curious and profitable in the
+shape of a <STRONG>boke</STRONG>.</P>
+
+<P>The lamps were lighted when I commenced my <EM>Bibliomaniacal
+Voyage</EM> of discovery among the BOOKSELLERS. But what poverty of
+materials, for a man educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton! To
+every question, about rare or old books, I was told that I should
+have been on the Continent when the allies first got possession of
+Paris. In fact, I had not a single <EM>trouvaille</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>The packet was to sail by nine the next morning, precisely. For
+a wonder, (or rather no wonder at all, considering what had
+occurred during the last twenty-four hours) I had an excellent
+night&#39;s rest, and was prepared for breakfast by eight. Having
+breakfasted, I accompanied my luggage to the inner harbour, and
+observed the <EM>Honfleur</EM> packet swarming with passengers, and
+crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks,
+trunks, cordage, and earthenware. We went on board, and took our
+stations near the helm; and after experiencing a good deal of
+<EM>uncomfortable</EM> heaving of the ocean, got clear from the
+mouth of the harbour, and stood out to sea. The tide was running
+briskly and strongly into the harbour. We were in truth closely
+stowed; and as these packets are built with flattish bottoms, and
+low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thus
+exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind
+began to subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of
+undisturbed serenity. Our crew was a motley one; but among them, an
+Abbess, with a visage of parchment-like rigidity, and with her
+broad streaming bands, seemed to experience particular distress.
+She was surrounded by some hale, hearty market women, whose robust
+forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed a striking contrast
+to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two, with cocked
+hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess was
+cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most
+piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation
+below.</P>
+
+<P>Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I
+had leisure to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and
+looking towards the course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in
+its windings, I discovered <EM>Harfleur</EM> and <EM>Hocher</EM>
+nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the little fishing
+town of <EM>Quillebeuf</EM>, apparently embedded in the water.
+Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing
+towns<A name="fnref_93"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_93">93</A>--
+or whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the
+environs make amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years
+of peace and plenty would work wonders even in the improvements of
+these environs. Perhaps no situation is more favourable for the
+luxury of a summer retirement.<A name="fnref_94"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_94">94</A> I paid only eight sous for my passage;
+and having no passport to be <EM>viséd</EM> (which indeed was the
+case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from the crowds of
+lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn from
+which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see with
+what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in
+their trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable
+forms, and miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered
+as we proceeded. I was fortunate to be in time to secure my place
+in the Diligence. The horses were in the very act of being put to,
+as I paid my reckoning beforehand.</P>
+
+<P>Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two
+well-dressed, and apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their
+places at the same time. It is not always that, at first sight,
+Englishmen associate so quickly, and apparently so cordially, as
+did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were the Messrs. D*** of
+<EM>L</EM>**** <EM>Hall</EM> in Yorkshire: the elder brother an
+Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab.
+We were all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon
+this expedition.</P>
+
+<P>We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very
+high hill on the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each
+side, and upon a noble breadth of road, I looked out of the
+diligence to enjoy the truly magnificent view of the Seine--with
+glimpses of <EM>Harfleur</EM> and <EM>Havre</EM> on the opposite
+coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick movement of the
+vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commodious manner.
+The ground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with
+the incumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of
+scent abroad--and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most
+luxuriant appearance to the landscape. Nature indeed seemed to have
+fructified every thing in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect.
+The face of the country is pasture-land throughout; that is to say,
+there are comparatively few orchards and little arable. I was told
+to pay attention to the cattle, for that the farmers prided
+themselves on their property of this kind. They may pride
+themselves--if they please: but their pride is not of a lofty cast
+of character. I have been in Lincolnshire, Herefordshire, and
+Gloucestershire--and have seen and enjoyed, in these counties,
+groups of cattle which appeared calculated for the land and the
+table of giants, compared with the Lilliputian objects, of the
+bucoline species, which were straying, in thin flocks, through the
+luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That triumphant and immutable maxim
+of &quot;small bone and large carcase&quot; seems, alas! to be
+unknown in these regions.</P>
+
+<P>However, on we rode--and gazed on all sides. At length we
+reached <EM>Pont L&#39;Eveque</EM>, a pretty long stage; where we
+dined (says my journal) upon roast fowl, asparagus, trout, and an
+excellent omelette, with two good bottles of vin ordinaire--which
+latter, for four Englishmen, was commendably moderate. During
+dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents--the
+gutters foamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of
+the water. In the midst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old
+England right merrily and cordially; and the conducteur, seeing us
+in good humour, told us that &quot;we need not hurry, for that he
+preferred a dry journey to a wet one.&quot; We readily assented to
+this position; but within half an hour, the weather clearing, we
+remounted: and by four o&#39;clock, we all got inside--and
+politics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in
+constant discourse and good humour as we rolled on for many a
+league. All the way to <EM>Troarn</EM> (the last stage on this side
+of Caen) the country presents a truly lovely picture of pasture
+land. There are occasionally some wooded heights, in which English
+wealth and English taste would have raised villas of the prettiest
+forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to be
+mentioned in the same breath with the country about Rodwell in
+Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant
+foliage as are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as
+an uncut <EM>Wynkyn de Worde</EM>:<A name="fnref_95"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_95">95</A> but creeping rivulets, rich coppice
+wood, avenues of elms and limes, and meadows begemmed with
+butter-cups--these are the characteristics of the country through
+which we were passing. It is in vain however you look for neat
+villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you see
+groups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population
+gives to French landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of
+character. It is in cities that you must look for human beings--and
+<EM>for</EM> cities the French seem to have been created.</P>
+
+<P>It was at <EM>Troarn</EM>, I think, or at some halting place
+beyond, that our passports were demanded, and the examination of
+our trunks solicited. We surrendered our keys most willingly. The
+gentlemen, with their cocked hats and blue jackets--having a belt
+from which a sword was suspended--consulted together for a minute
+only--returned our keys--and telling us that matters would be
+thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no trouble.
+We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs.
+D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy
+being secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and
+curiosity for a view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had
+set, and the horizon had become gloomy, when we first discovered
+the spires of <EM>St. Stephen&#39;s Abbey</EM>--the principal
+ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine o&#39;clock;
+and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very
+indistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in a
+lengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had the
+appearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like
+our famous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the
+surrounding country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered
+it, all the population seemed collected to witness our arrival.
+From solitude we plunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We
+stopped at the <EM>Hotel d&#39;Espagne--</EM>a large, but black and
+begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was taken down; and here we were
+assailed by garçons de place, with cards in their hands, intreating
+us to put up at their respective hotels. We had somehow got a
+recommendation to the <EM>Hotel Royale, Place Royale</EM>, and such
+a union of <EM>royal</EM> adjuncts was irresistible. Accordingly,
+we resolved upon moving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed
+upon barrows: and we marched behind, &quot;in double quick
+time,&quot; in order to secure our property. The town appeared to
+improve as we made our different turnings, and gained upon our
+hotel. &quot;Le voilà, Messieurs&quot;--exclaimed our guides and
+baggage-conductors--as we got into a goodly square, and saw a fair
+and comely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids,
+and garçons de place, encountered us as we entered.
+&quot;Messieurs, je vous salue,&quot;--said a huge, ungracious
+looking figure:--which said figure was nothing less than the master
+of the hotel--Mons. Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room on
+the ground floor, to the right--and ordered tea; but had scarcely
+begun to enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when
+the same ungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... to
+tell us &quot;all about THE DUEL.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from
+Havre to Honfleur) something respecting this most extraordinary
+duel between a young Englishman and a young Frenchman: but as I
+mean to reserve my <EM>Caen budget</EM> for a distinct dispatch,
+and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in this place, I must
+bid you adieu; only adding that I dreamt, last night, about some
+English antiquaries trying to bend the bow of William the
+Conqueror!--Can this be surprising? Again farewell.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XII.</H3>
+
+<P>CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF
+ST. STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DARNETAL. ABBÉ DE LA SAINTE
+TRINITÉ. OTHER PUBLIC EDIFICES.</P>
+
+<P>I have now resided upwards of a week at Lagouelle&#39;s, the
+<EM>Hotel Royale</EM>, and can tell you something of the place and
+of the inhabitants of CAEN. Caen however is still-life after Rouen:
+but it has been, and yet is, a town exceedingly well-deserving the
+attention of the lounging traveller and of the curious antiquary.
+Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but less vast and
+splendid, than those of Rouen; while the streets and the houses are
+much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of the
+department of CALVADOS, or of LOWER NORMANDY: and its population is
+estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a
+school of art, a college, mayoralty, and all the adjuncts of a
+corporate society.<A name="fnref_96"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_96">96</A> But I must first give you something in the shape of
+political economy intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of
+<EM>Bayeux, Vire, Falaise, Lisieux, Pont L&#39;Eveque</EM>, is the
+country of pasturage and of cattle. It is also fertile in the apple
+and pear; and although at <EM>Argences</EM> there have been
+vineyards from time immemorial, yet the produce of the grape, in
+the character of <EM>wine</EM>,<A name="fnref_97"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_97">97</A> is of a very secondary description.
+There are beautiful and most abundant market gardens about Caen;
+and for the last seventy years they have possessed a garden for the
+growth and cultivation of foreign plants and trees. It is said that
+more than nine hundred species of plants and trees are to be found
+in the department of CALVADOS, of which some (but I know not how
+many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Of forests and
+woods, the number is comparatively small; and upon that limited
+number great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In the
+arrondissement of Caen itself, there are only 344
+<EM>hectares</EM>.<A name="fnref_98"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_98">98</A> The truth is, that in the immediate neighbourhood
+of populous towns, the French have no idea of PLANTING. They suffer
+plain after plain, and hill after hill, to be denuded of trees, and
+make no provision for the supply of those who are to come after
+them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country about
+Rouen--(especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen--)
+is gradually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you
+approach the town, there is a dreary flatness of country,
+unrefreshed by the verdure of foliage: whereas the soil, kind and
+productive by nature, requires only the slightest attention of man
+to repay him a hundred fold. What they will do some fifty years
+hence for <EM>fuel</EM>, is quite inconceivable. It is true that
+the river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the
+sea, brings up vessels of even 200 tons burthen, in which they may
+stow plenty of wood; but still, the expenses of carriage, and
+duties of a variety of description--together with the
+<EM>dependence</EM> of the town upon such accidental supply--would
+render the article of fuel a most expensive concern. It is also
+true that they pretend that the soil, in the department of
+Calvados, contains <EM>coal</EM>; but the experiments which were
+made some years ago at <EM>Littry</EM>, in the arondissement of
+<EM>Bayeux</EM>, should forbid the Caennois to indulge any very
+sanguine expectations on that score.</P>
+
+<P>In respect to the trade of the town, the two principal branches
+are <EM>lace</EM> and <EM>cap</EM> making. The former trade is
+divided with Bayeux; and both places together give occupation to
+about thirty thousand pairs<A name="fnref_99"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_99">99</A> of hands. People of all ages may be so
+employed; and the annual gross receipts have been estimated at four
+millions of francs. In <EM>cap</EM> making only, at Caen, four
+thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce
+of two millions of francs has been the result of that branch of
+trade. A great part of this manufacture was consumed at home; but
+more than one half used to be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the
+colonies belonging to France. They pretend to say, however, that
+this article of commerce is much diminished both in profit and
+reputation: while that of <EM>table linen</EM> is gaining
+proportionably in both.<A name="fnref_100"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_100">100</A> There were formerly great <EM>tanneries</EM>
+in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade
+has suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent
+check, and the ignorance and inattention of the masters to recent
+improvements, introduced by means of chemistry, have helped to
+hasten its decay. To balance this misfortune, there has of late
+sprung up a very general and judiciously directed commercial spirit
+in the article of <EM>porcelaine</EM>; and if Caen be inferior to
+its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in the
+articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in
+that which relates to <EM>pottery</EM> and <EM>china</EM>: no mean
+articles in the supply of domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in
+matters of higher &quot;pith and moment&quot; that Caen may claim a
+superiority over the towns just noticed. There is a better spirit
+of <EM>education</EM> abroad; and, for its size, more science and
+more literature will be found in it.</P>
+
+<P>This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers.
+There are two distinct academies--one for &quot;Science and the
+Belles-Lettres&quot;--the other for agriculture and commerce. The
+<EM>Lycée</EM> is a noble building, close to the Abbey of St.
+Stephen: but I wish its façade had been Gothic, to harmonise with
+the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the
+prevalent appearance of <EM>stone</EM> in its public buildings. The
+environs of the town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in
+great blocks, in a comparatively soft state--and is thus cut into
+the several forms required with the greatest facility. It is then
+exposed, and every succeeding day appears to add to its white tint
+and durable quality. I saw some important improvements making in
+the outskirts of the town,<A name="fnref_101"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_101">101</A> in which they were finishing shafts and
+capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and gratifying.
+Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they find stone
+of a closer grain; and with this they make stair- cases, and
+pavements for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-
+cases in this place, which are usually circular, and projecting
+from the building, struck me as being equally curious and uncommon.
+It is asserted that they have different kinds of <EM>marble</EM> in
+the department of Calvados, which equal that of the south of
+France. At <EM>Basly</EM> and <EM>Vieux</EM> white marble is found
+which has been judged worthy of a comparison with Parian; but this
+is surely a little presumptuous. However, it is known that Cardinal
+Richelieu brought from Vieux all the marble with which he built the
+chapel in the college of the Sorbonne.</P>
+
+<P>Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular
+society, Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners
+of the common people are pretty much, if not entirely, the same;
+except that, as to dress, the <EM>cauchoise</EM> is here rather
+more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen. The upper fille-de-chambre at
+our hotel displays not only a good correct model of national dress,
+but she is well-looking in her person, and well-bred in her
+manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured young woman to
+sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The
+girl&#39;s eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the
+proposal, and even an expression of gratitude mingled itself in her
+manner of compliance. I send you the figure and dress of the
+fille-de-chambre at the <EM>Hotel Royale</EM> of Caen.<A name=
+"fnref_102"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_102">102</A></P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:70%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/209.png" alt="Fille de chambre">
+
+<P class="centered">FILLE DE CHAMBRE, CAEN.</P>
+</DIV>
+
+<P>Caen is called the dépôt of the English.<A name=
+"fnref_103"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_103">103</A> In truth
+there is an amazing number of our countrymen here, and from very
+different causes. One family comes to reside from motives of
+economy; another from those of education; a third from those of
+retirement; and a fourth from pure love of sitting down, in a
+strange place, with the chance of making some pleasant connection,
+or of being engaged in seeking some strange adventure: Good and
+cheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main
+attractions. But there is desperate ill blood just now between the
+<EM>Caennois</EM> (I will not make use of the enlarged term
+<EM>Francois</EM>) and the English; and I will tell you the cause.
+Do you remember the emphatic phrase in my last, &quot;all about the
+duel?&quot; Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,<A
+name="fnref_104"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_104">104</A> a duel
+was fought between a young French law-student, and a young
+Englishman; the latter the son of a naval captain. I will mention
+no names; and so far not wound the feelings of the friends of the
+parties concerned. But this duel, my friend, has been &quot;THE
+DUEL OF DUELS&quot;--on the score of desperation, and of a fixed
+purpose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I trust
+will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, in
+spite of all the &quot;bouleversemens&quot; of the Revolution, has
+maintained its ancient reputation of possessing a very large
+seminary, or college for students at law. These students amount to
+nearly 600 in number. Most young gentlemen under twenty years of
+age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, or foolish. Generally
+speaking, however, the students conduct themselves with propriety:
+but there had been a law-suit between a French and English suitor,
+and the Judge pronounced sentence in favour of our countryman. The
+hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful
+number of law-students. As they were retiring, one young Frenchman
+either made frightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very
+fixed and insulting manner, at a young Englishman--the son of this
+naval captain. Our countryman had no means or power of noticing or
+resenting the insult, as the aggressor was surrounded by his
+companions. It so happened that it was fair time at Caen; and in
+the evening of the same day, our countryman recognised, in the
+crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man who had
+insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave
+him to understand that his rude behaviour should be noticed at a
+proper time and in a proper place: whereupon the Frenchman came up
+to him, shook him violently by the arm, and told him to &quot;fix
+his distance on the ensuing morning.&quot; Now the habit of
+duelling is very common among these law-students; but they measure
+twenty-five paces, fire, and of course ... MISS--and then fancy
+themselves great heroes ... and there is an end of the affair. Not
+so upon the present occasion. &quot;Fifteen paces,&quot; if you
+please-- said the student, sarcastically, with a conviction of the
+backwardness of his opponent to meet him. &quot;FIVE,
+rather&quot;--exclaimed the provoked Englishman--&quot;I will fight
+you at FIVE paces:&quot;--and it was agreed that they should meet
+and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder.</P>
+
+<P>Each party was under twenty; but I believe the English youth had
+scarcely attained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate
+will cause your flesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds,
+as <EM>one</EM> must necessarily <EM>fall</EM>, from firing at so
+short a distance, that only <EM>one</EM> pistol should be loaded
+with <EM>ball</EM>: the other having nothing but
+<EM>powder</EM>:--and that, as the Frenchman had challenged, he was
+to have the choice of the pistols. They parted. The seconds
+prepared the pistols according to agreement, and the fatal morning
+came. The combatants appeared, without one jot of abatement of
+spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grass before
+them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder and
+ball. The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed and
+balanced it most carefully in his hand, and then ... laid it down.
+He seized the other pistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the
+spot from whence he was to fire. The English youth was necessarily
+compelled to take the abandoned pistol. Five paces were then
+measured ... and on the signal being given, they both fired ... and
+the Frenchman fell ... DEAD UPON THE SPOT! The Frenchman had in
+fact <EM>taken up</EM>, but afterwards <EM>laid down</EM>, the very
+pistol which was loaded with the fatal <EM>ball</EM>--on the
+supposition that it was of too light a weight; and even seemed to
+compliment himself upon his supposed sagacity on the occasion. But
+to proceed. The ball went through his heart, as I understood. The
+second of the deceased on seeing his friend a reeking corpse at his
+feet, became mad and outrageous ... and was for fighting the
+survivor immediately! Upon which, the lad of mettle and courage
+replied, that he would not fight a man without a
+<EM>second</EM>--&quot;But go,&quot; said he, (drawing his watch
+coolly from his fob). I will give you twenty minutes to come back
+again with your second.&quot; He waited, with his watch in his
+hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the return of the
+Frenchman; but on the expiration of the time, his own second
+conjured him to consult his safety and depart; for that, from
+henceforth, his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground; obtained
+his passport, and quitted the town instantly ... The dead body of
+his antagonist was then placed on a bier: and his funeral was
+attended by several hundreds of his companions--who, armed with
+muskets and swords, threatened destruction to the civil and
+military authorities if they presumed to interfere. All this has
+necessarily increased the ill- blood which is admitted to exist
+between the English and French ... but the affair is now beginning
+to blow over.<A name="fnref_105"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_105">105</A></P>
+
+<P>A truce to such topics. It is now time to furnish you with some
+details relating to your favourite subjects of ARCHITECTURAL
+ANTIQUITIES and BIBLIOGRAPHY. The former shall take precedence.
+First of the <EM>streets</EM>; secondly of the <EM>houses</EM>; and
+thirdly of the <EM>public buildings</EM>; ecclesiastical and
+civil.</P>
+
+<P>To begin with the STREETS. Those of <EM>St. Pierre, Notre
+Dame</EM>, and <EM>St. Jean</EM> are the principal for bustle and
+business. The first two form one continuous line, leading to the
+abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact a very interesting stroll
+to the observer of men and manners. The shops are inferior to those
+of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible in them. The
+street beyond the abbey, and those called <EM>Guilbert</EM>, and
+<EM>des Chanoines</EM>, leading towards the river, are considered
+among the genteelest. Ducarel pronounced the <EM>houses</EM> of
+Caen &quot;mean in general, though usually built of stone;&quot;
+but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The open parts
+about the <EM>Lycée</EM> and the <EM>Abbey of St. Stephen</EM>,
+together with the <EM>Place Royale</EM>, where the library is
+situated, form very agreeable spaces for the promenade of the
+ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The <EM>Courts</EM>
+are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time of
+Francis I. Of <EM>domestic</EM> architecture, those houses, with
+elaborate carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubtless
+of the greatest antiquity. There are a great number of these; and
+some very much older than others.</P>
+
+<P>A curious old house is to the right hand corner of the street
+<EM>St. Jean</EM>: as you go to the Post Office. But I must inform
+you that the residence of the famous MALHERBE yet exists in the
+street leading to the Abbey of St. Stephen. This house is of the
+middle of the sixteenth century: and what Corneille is to
+<EM>Rouen</EM>, Malherbe is to <EM>Caen</EM>. &quot;ICI NAQUIT
+MALHERBE,&quot; &amp;c. as you will perceive from the annexed view
+of this house, inscribed upon the front of the building. Malherbe
+has been doomed to receive greater honours. His head was first
+struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuate the resemblances of
+the most eminent literary characters (male and female) in France:
+and it is due to the amiable Pierre-Aimé Lair to designate him as
+the FATHER of this medallic project.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/215.png" alt="Building"></DIV>
+
+<P>In perambulating this town, one cannot but be surprised at the
+absence of <EM>Fountains</EM>--those charming pieces of
+architecture and of street embellishment. In this respect, Rouen
+has infinitely the advantage of Caen: where, instead of the
+trickling current of translucent water, we observe nothing but the
+partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly <EM>wells</EM><A
+name="fnref_106"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_106">106</A> as
+tasteless in their structure as they are inconvenient in the
+procuring of water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the
+dates of 1560 and 1588.</P>
+
+<P>The PUBLIC EDIFICES, however, demand a particular and
+appropriate description: and first of those of the ecclesiastical
+order. Let us begin therefore with the ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN; for it
+is the noblest and most interesting on many accounts. It is called
+by the name of that Saint, inasmuch as there stood formerly a
+chapel, on the same site, dedicated to him. The present building
+was completed and solemnly dedicated by William the Conqueror, in
+the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert and William, his
+favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, and Thomas
+Archbishop of York--towards the year 1080: but I strongly suspect,
+from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that
+nothing more than the west front and the towers upon which the
+spires rest, remain of its ancient structure. The spires (as the
+Abbé De La Rue conjectures, and as I should also have thought) are
+about two centuries later than the towers.</P>
+
+<P>The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thirteenth,
+rather than of the end of the eleventh, century. The first exterior
+view of the west front, and of the towers, is extremely
+interesting; from the grey and clear tint, as well as excellent
+quality, of the stone, which, according to Huet, was brought partly
+from Vaucelle and partly from Allemagne.<A name="fnref_107"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_107">107</A> One of the corner abutments of
+one of the towers has fallen down; and a great portion of what
+remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeed
+greatly in need of reparation. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,<A
+name="fnref_108"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_108">108</A> has
+made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation, as if it were
+intended for a wooden model to work by: having all the stiffness
+and precision of an erection of forty-eight hours standing only.
+The central tower is of very stunted dimensions, and overwhelmed by
+a roof in the form of an extinguisher. This, in fact, was the
+consequence of the devastations of the Calvinists; who absolutely
+sapped the foundation of the tower, with the hope of overwhelming
+the whole choir in ruin--but a part only of their malignant object
+was accomplished. The component parts of the eastern extremity are
+strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good
+commanding exterior view can be obtained from the <EM>place</EM>,
+or confined square, opposite the towers.</P>
+
+<P>But let us return to the west-front; and opening the unfastened
+green- baize covered door, enter softly and silently into the
+venerable interior--sacred even to the feelings of Englishmen! Of
+this interior, very much is changed from its original character.
+The side aisles retain their flattened arched roofs and pillars;
+and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters--or
+alto-rilievo-like pillars--running from bottom to top, which are to
+be seen in the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long
+pillars are comparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance,
+within a side chapel, is the burial place of MATILDA, the wife of
+the Conqueror. The tombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly
+of the time. Generally speaking, the interior is cold, and dull of
+effect. The side chapels, of which not fewer than sixteen encircle
+the choir, have the discordant accompaniments of Grecian
+balustrades to separate them from the choir and nave. There is a
+good number of <EM>Confessionals</EM> within them; and at one of
+these I saw, for the first time, <EM>two</EM> women, kneeling, in
+the act of confession to the <EM>same priest</EM>. &quot;C&#39;est
+un peu fort,&quot; observed our guide in an under-voice, and with a
+humourous expression of countenance! Meanwhile Mr. Lewis, who was
+in an opposite direction in the cathedral, was exercising his
+pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/219.png" alt="Confession"></DIV>
+
+<P>To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is hung
+the huge portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which
+Ducarel has published an engraving, on the supposition of its being
+the portrait of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. But nothing can be more
+ridiculous than such a conclusion. In the first place, the picture
+itself, which is a palpable copy, cannot be older than a century;
+and, in the second place, were it an original performance, it could
+not be older than the time of Francis I:-- when, in fact, it
+purports to have been executed--as a faithful copy of the figure of
+King William, seen by the Cardinals in 1522, who were seized with a
+sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at that
+time! The costume of the oil-painting is evidently that of the
+period of our Henry VIII.; and to suppose that the body of
+William--even had it remained in so surprisingly perfect a state as
+Ducarel intimates, after an interment of upwards of four hundred
+years--could have presented such a costume, when, from
+Ducarel&#39;s own statement, another whole-length representation of
+the same person is <EM>totally different</EM>--and more decidedly
+of the character of William&#39;s time--is really quite a reproach
+to any antiquary who plumes himself upon the possession even of
+common sense.</P>
+
+<P>In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, the
+body of the Conqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument
+erected to his memory of the most elaborate and costly description.
+Nothing now remains but a flat black marble slab, with a short
+inscription, of quite a recent date.</P>
+
+<P>In the present state of the abbey,<A name="fnref_109"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_109">109</A> and even in that of
+Ducarel&#39;s time, there is, and was, a great dearth of sepulchral
+monuments. Indeed I know not whether you need be detained another
+minute within the interior; except it be, to add your share of
+admiration to that which has been long and justly bestowed on the
+huge organ<A name="fnref_110"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_110">110</A> at the west end of the nave, which is considered
+to be the finest in all France. But Normandy abounds in church
+decorations of this kind. Leaving therefore this venerable pile,
+endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing
+associations of ideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard,
+and observe the ruins of a pretty extensive pile of building, which
+is called by Ducarel the <EM>Palace of the Conqueror</EM>. But in
+this supposed palace, in its <EM>present</EM> state, most assuredly
+William I. <EM>never</EM> resided: for it is clearly not older than
+the thirteenth century: if so ancient. Ducarel saw a great deal
+more than is now to be seen; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain
+entrance into what appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped
+by an old woman, who assured me &quot;qu&#39;il n&#39;y avoit rien
+que du chauffage.&quot; It was true enough: the whole of the
+untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returning to
+the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right,
+you descend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins,
+called <EM>St. Etienne le Vieil</EM>. In Ducarel&#39;s time this
+church is described as entire. On the exterior of one of the
+remaining buttresses is a whole length figure, about four English
+feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of a man on
+horseback--mutilated-- trampling upon another man at its feet.</P>
+
+<P>It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But, would you
+believe it? this figure also, in the opinion of Bourgueville,<A
+name="fnref_111"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_111">111</A> was
+intended for William the the Conqueror--representing his triumphant
+entry into Caen! As an object of art, even in its present mutilated
+state, it is highly interesting; and I rejoice that Mr. Cotman is
+likely to preserve the little that remains from the hazard of
+destruction by the fidelity of his own copy of it.<A name=
+"fnref_112"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_112">112</A> It is quite
+clear that, close to the figure, you discover traces of style which
+are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The interior of what
+remains of this consecrated edifice is converted &quot;horresco
+referens&quot; into a receptacle for ... carriages for hire. Not
+far from this spot stood formerly a magnificent CROSS--demolished
+during the memorable visit of the Calvinists.<A name=
+"fnref_113"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_113">113</A> In the way
+to the abbey of the Trinity, quite at the opposite or eastern
+extremity of the town, you necessarily pass along the <EM>Rue St.
+Pierre</EM>, and enter into the market-place, affording an opening
+before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the church
+of <EM>St. Pierre de Darnetal</EM> of which I now speak, and from
+which the name of the street is derived. The tower and spire are of
+the most admirable form and workmanship.<A name="fnref_114"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_114">114</A> The extreme delicacy and
+picturesque effect of the stone tiles, with which the spire is
+covered, as well as the lightness and imposing consequence given to
+the tower upon which the spire rests, are of a character peculiar
+to itself. The whole has a charming effect. But severe criticism
+compels one to admit that the body of the church is defective in
+fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only florid Gothic,
+but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The parts
+are capriciously put together: filled, and even crammed, with
+ornaments of apparently all ages: concluding with the Grecian
+mixture introduced in the reign of Francis I. The buttresses are,
+however, generally, lofty and airy. In the midst of this
+complicated and corrupt style of architecture, the tower and spire
+rise like a structure built by preternatural hands; and I am not
+sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal
+beauty and effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in
+our own country. Look at this building, from any part of the town,
+and you must acknowledge that it has the strongest claims to
+unqualified admiration.<A name="fnref_115"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_115">115</A> The body of the church is of very
+considerable dimensions. I entered it on a Sunday morning, about
+eleven o&#39;clock, and found it quite filled with a large
+congregation, in which the <EM>cauchoise</EM>, as usual, appeared
+like a broad white mass--from one end to the other. The priests
+were in procession. One of the most magnificent organs imaginable
+was in full intonation, with every stop opened; the voices of the
+congregation were lustily exercised; and the offices of religion
+were carried on in a manner which would seem to indicate a warm
+sense of devotion among the worshippers. There is a tolerably good
+set of modern paintings (the best which I have yet seen in the
+interior of a church) of the <EM>Life of Christ</EM>, in the side
+chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of <EM>Our
+Lady&#39;s Chapel</EM>, is horribly bedaubed and over-loaded with
+the most tasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps
+ever witnessed! The great bell of this church, which has an
+uncommonly deep and fine tone, is for ever</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Swinging slow with solemn roar!</P>
+
+<P>that is to say:--it is tolling from five in the morning till ten
+at night; so incessantly, in one side-chapel or another, are these
+offices carried on within this maternal parish church.<A name=
+"fnref_116"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_116">116</A></P>
+
+<P>I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a
+church in the <EM>Rue St. Jean</EM>,<A name="fnref_117"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_117">117</A> which is one of the principal
+streets in the town: and which is terminated by the <EM>Place des
+Cazernes</EM>, flanked by the river Orne. In this street I was
+asked, by a bookseller, two pounds two shillings, for a thumbed and
+cropt copy of the <EM>Elzevir-Heinsius Horace</EM> of 1629; but
+with which demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have
+the most extravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here
+and at Rouen.</P>
+
+<P>You must now attend me to the most interesting public building,
+perhaps all things considered, which is to be seen at Caen. I mean,
+the <EM>Abbey of the Holy Trinity</EM>, or L&#39;ABBAYE AUX
+DAMES.<A name="fnref_118"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_118">118</A> This abbey was founded by the wife of the
+Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St.
+Stephen. Ducarel&#39;s description of it, which I have just seen in
+a copy of the <EM>Anglo-Norman Antiquities</EM>, in a
+bookseller&#39;s shop, is sufficiently meagre. His plates are also
+sufficiently miserable: but things are strangely altered since his
+time. The nave of the church is occupied by a manufactory for
+making cordage, or twine; and upwards of a hundred lads are now
+busied in their <EM>flaxen</EM> occupations, where formerly the nun
+knelt before the cross, or was occupied in auricular confession.
+The entrance at the western extremity is entirely stopped up: but
+the exterior gives manifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of
+the Abbey of St. Stephen. The upper part of the towers are palpably
+of the fifteenth, or rather of the early part of the sixteenth
+century. I had no opportunity of judging of the neat pavement of
+the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, as noticed by
+Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of the building
+by the manufacturing children; but I saw some very ancient
+tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been
+removed from the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the
+sides of the north transept. The nave is entirely <EM>walled
+up</EM> from the transepts, but the choir is fortunately preserved;
+and a more perfect and interesting specimen of its kind, of the
+same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen in Normandy. All the
+monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel, are now
+taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the
+upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked
+along the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a
+more adventurous spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me:
+for, on quitting daylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in
+our way to the central tower--to enjoy from hence a view of the
+town. I almost tremble as I relate it. There had been put up a sort
+of temporary wooden staircase, leading absolutely to ... nothing:
+or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened to be foremost in
+ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckily close
+behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot
+to a supposed higher or succeeding step ... but there was
+<EM>none</EM>. A depth of eighteen feet at least was below me. The
+guide caught my coat, as I was about to lose my balance--and roared
+out &quot;Arrêtez--tenez!&quot; The least balance or inclination,
+one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these critical occasions:
+when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling me in
+consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... and my LIFE ... were
+equally saved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE
+AUX DAMES at Caen.</P>
+
+<P>I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal
+altitude with those of the western extremity, and from thence
+surveyed the town, as well as the drizzling rain would permit. I
+saw enough however to convince me that the site of this abbey is
+fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly upon the highest
+ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition to mount
+to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that most
+commendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to
+visit the CRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more
+laudable spirit of enterprise than did my old-fashioned
+predecessor. Accordingly, from the summit, you must accompany me to
+the lowest depth of the building. I descended by the same (somewhat
+intricate) route, and I took especial care to avoid all
+&quot;temporary wooden stair-cases.&quot; The crypt, beneath the
+choir, is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir
+itself. Within an old, very old, stone coffin--at the further
+circular end--are the pulverized remains of one of the earliest
+Abbesses.<A name="fnref_119"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_119">119</A> I gazed around with mixed sensations of
+veneration and awe, and threw myself back into centuries past,
+fancying that the shrouded figure of MATILDA herself glided by,
+with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm! Having
+gratified my curiosity by a careful survey of this subterraneous
+abode, I revisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the
+large building, now a manufactory, which in Ducarel&#39;s time had
+been a nunnery. The revolution has swept away every human being in
+the character of a nun; but the director of the manufactory shewed
+me, with great civility, some relics of old crosses, rings, veils,
+lachrymatories, &amp;c. which had been taken from the crypt I had
+recently visited. These relics savoured of considerable antiquity.
+Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they <EM>must</EM>
+have belonged to Matilda herself; but I will have neither the
+presumption nor the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed
+indeed to have undergone half a dozen decompositions. Upon the
+whole, if our Antiquarian Society, after having exhausted the
+cathedrals of their own country, should ever think of perpetuating
+the principal ecclesiastical edifices of Normandy, by means of the
+<EM>Art of Engraving</EM>, let them begin their labours with the
+ABBAYE AUX DAMES at Caen.</P>
+
+<P>The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical
+buildings in this place. There are other public edifices, but
+comparatively of a modern date. And yet I should be guilty of a
+gross omission were I to neglect giving you an account, however
+superficial, of the remains of an apparently CASTELLATED BUILDING,
+a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames--or rather to the right, upon
+elevated ground, as you enter the town by the way we came. As far
+as I can discover, this appears to have escaped Ducarel.<A name=
+"fnref_120"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_120">120</A> It is
+doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upper part of the
+walls, there is a series of basso-relievo heads, medallion- wise,
+cut in stone, evidently intended for portraits. They are assuredly
+not older than the reign of Francis I. and may be even as late as
+that of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head,
+with a ferocious- looking man on each side of it, either saluting
+the woman, or whispering in her ear. But the most striking objects
+are the stone figures of two men, upon a circular tower, of which
+one is in the act of shooting an arrow, and the other as if holding
+a drawn sword. I got admittance within the building; and ascending
+the tower, found that these were only the <EM>trunks</EM> of
+figures,--and removable at pleasure. I could only stroke their
+beards and shake their bodies a little, which was of course done
+with impunity. Whether the present be the <EM>original</EM> place
+of their destination may be very doubtful. The Abbé de la Rue, with
+whom I discoursed upon the subject yesterday morning, is of opinion
+that these figures are of the time of Louis XI.: which makes them a
+little more ancient than the other ornaments of the building. As to
+the interior, I could gather nothing with certainty of the original
+character of the place from the present remains. The earth is piled
+up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered with grass: and an
+orchard, and rich pasture land (where I saw several women milking
+cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the
+<EM>Caennois</EM> are rather proud of this building.</P>
+
+<P>Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its
+erection, and &quot;putting the colophon&quot; to this disquisition
+respecting the principal public buildings at Caen, it is high time
+to assure you how faithfully I am always yours.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XIII.</H3>
+
+<P>LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBÉ DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR AND
+LAMOUROUX. MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M.
+MOYSANT, PUBLIC LIBRARIAN. COURTS OF JUSTICE.</P>
+
+<P>From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words,
+prepare to receive some account of <EM>Society</EM>,--and of things
+appertaining to the formation of the intellectual character. Caen
+can boast of a public Literary Society, and of the publication of
+its memoirs.<A name="fnref_121"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_121">121</A> But these &quot;memoirs&quot; consist at present
+of only six volumes, and are in our own country extremely rare.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/236.png" alt="ABBÉ DE LA RUE">
+
+<P class = "centered">ABBÉ DE LA RUE <BR>
+Ætat. LXXIV.</P>
+</DIV>
+
+<P>Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation
+throw a sort of lustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that
+stands upon <EM>quite</EM> so lofty an eminence as the ABBÉ DE LA
+RUE; at this time occupied in publishing a <EM>History of
+Caen</EM>.<A name="fnref_122"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_122">122</A> As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his
+countrymen; while his essays upon the <EM>Bayeux Tapestry</EM> and
+the <EM>Anglo-Norman Poets</EM>, published in our
+<EM>Archæologia</EM>, prove that there are few, even among
+ourselves, who could have treated those interesting subjects with
+more dexterity or better success. The Abbé is, in short, the great
+archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a Visit
+at Lagouelle&#39;s. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth
+year. His figure is rather stout, and above the mean height: his
+complexion is healthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful
+quantity of waving white hair adds much to the expression of his
+countenance.<A name="fnref_123"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_123">123</A> He enquired kindly after our mutual friend Mr.
+Douce; of whose talents and character he spoke in a manner which
+did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, as
+to--<EM>not</EM> dining with me; observing that his Order was
+forbidden to dine in taverns. He gave me a list of places which I
+ought to visit in my further progress through Normandy, and took
+leave of me more abruptly than I could have wished. He rarely
+visits Caen, although a great portion of his library is kept there:
+his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of a
+nobleman to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man,
+of his venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying,
+in the evening of life, (after braving such a tempest, in the
+noon-day of it, as that of the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired
+possession of his faculties, and the respect of the virtuous and
+the wise.</P>
+
+<P>The study of <EM>Natural History</EM> obtains pretty generally
+at Caen; indeed they have an Academy in which this branch of
+learning is expressly taught--and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX<A
+name="fnref_124"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_124">124</A> is at
+once the chief ornament and instructor. This gentleman (to whom our
+friend Mr. Dawson Turner furnished me with a letter of
+introduction) has the most unaffected manners, and a countenance
+particularly open and winning. He is &quot;a very dragon&quot; in
+his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking
+some baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and
+which he handled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and
+facility. The library of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like
+library: filled with sensible, solid, and instructive books--and if
+he had only accepted a repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to
+dine with me at Lagouelle&#39;s, to meet his learned brother
+PIERRE-AIMÉ LAIR, nothing would have been wanting to the completion
+of his character!</P>
+
+<P>You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aimé Lair. Prepare to
+receive a sketch of the character to which that name appertains.
+This gentleman is not only the life and soul of the society--but of
+the very town--in which he moves. I walked with him, arm in arm,
+more than once, through very many streets, passages, and courts,
+which were distinguished for any relic of architectural antiquity.
+He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person out of three, in
+our progress. &quot;Je vous salue&quot;--&quot;vous voilà avec
+Monsieur l&#39;Anglois&quot;--&quot;bon jour,&quot;--&quot;comment
+ca va-t-il:&quot;--The activity of Pierre-Aimé Lair is only
+equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of disposition.
+He is all kindness. Call when you will, and ask for what you
+please, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems
+to rise (and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or
+untoward propensities. With him, the sun seems always to shine, and
+the lark to tune her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is
+carried by him into every abode however gloomy, and every society
+however dull.</P>
+
+<P>But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not
+only is Pierre-Aimé Lair a lover and collector of tangible
+antiquities--such as glazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, and
+fractured capitals--all seen in &quot;long array&quot;, up the
+windings of his staircase--but he is a critic, and a patron of the
+<EM>literary</EM> antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told you
+in my last despatch) is the birth-place of MALHERBE; and, in the
+character now under discussion, it has found a perpetuator of the
+name and merits of the father of French verse. In the year 1806 our
+worthy antiquary put forth a project for a general subscription
+&quot;for a medal in honour of <EM>Malherbe</EM>,&quot;<A name=
+"fnref_125"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_125">125</A> which
+project was in due time rewarded by the names of <EM>fifteen
+hundred</EM> efficient subscribers, at five francs a piece. The
+proposal was doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the
+French; and luckily the execution of it surpassed the expectations
+of the subscribers. The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect
+execution. Not only, however, did this head of Malherbe
+succeed--but a feeling was expressed that it might be followed up
+by a <EM>Series of Heads</EM> of the most illustrious, of both
+sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough
+for Lair: though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the
+<EM>latter</EM> design also. Accordingly, there has appeared,
+periodically, a set of heads of this description, in bronze or
+other metal, as the purchaser pleases--which has reflected infinite
+credit not only on the name of the projector of this scheme, but on
+the present state of the fine arts in France.</P>
+
+<P>Yet another word about Pierre-Aimé Lair. He is not so inexorable
+as M. Lamouroux: for he <EM>has</EM> dined with me, and quaffed the
+burgundy and champagne of Lagouelle, commander in chief of this
+house. Better wines cannot be quaffed; and Malherbe and the Duke of
+Wellington formed the alternate subjects of discourse and praise.
+In return, I have dined with our guest. He had prepared an abundant
+dinner, and a very select society: but although there was no wand,
+as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm away the dishes, &amp;c.
+or to interdict the tasting of them, yet it was scarcely possible
+to partake of one in four... so unmercifully were they steeped and
+buried in <EM>butter!</EM> The principal topic of discourse, were
+the merits of the poets of the respective countries of France and
+England, from which I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and
+Young, are among the greatest favourites with the French. The white
+brandy of Pierre-Aimé Lair, introduced after dinner, is hardly to
+be described for its strength and pungency. &quot;Vous n&#39;avez
+rien comme ca chez vous?&quot; &quot;Je le crois bien, (I replied)
+c&#39;est la liquéfaction même du feu.&quot; We broke up before
+eight; each retiring to his respective avocations--but did not dine
+till five. I borrowed, however, &quot;an hour or twain&quot; of the
+evening, after the departure of the company, to enjoy the more
+particular conversation of our host; and the more I saw and
+conversed with him; the greater was my gratification. At parting,
+he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of all sizes, of his own
+publication; and I ventured to predict to him that he would
+terminate his multifarious labours by settling into consolidated
+BIBLIOMANIACISM. &quot;On peut faire pire!&quot;--was his reply--on
+shaking hands with me, and telling me he should certainly meet me
+again at <EM>Bayeux</EM>, in my progress through Normandy.<A name=
+"fnref_126"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_126">126</A> My
+acquaintance with this amiable man seemed to be my security from
+insults in the streets.</P>
+
+<P>Education here commences early, and with incitements as alluring
+as at Rouen. POISSON in the <EM>Rue Froide</EM> is the principal,
+and indeed a very excellent, printer; but BONNESERRE, in the same
+street, has put forth a vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion,
+in a brochure of eight pages, of which I send you the first, and
+which you may compare with the specimen transmitted in a former
+letter.<A name="fnref_127"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_127">127</A></P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:60%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/242.png" alt="Pater noster..."></DIV>
+
+<P>Chapolin, in the <EM>Rue-Froide-Rue,</EM> has recently published
+a most curious little manual, in the cursive secretary gothic,
+entitled &quot;<EM>La Civilité honnête pour les enfans qui commence
+par la maniere d&#39;apprendre et bien lire, prononcer et
+écrire</EM>.&quot; I call it &quot;curious,&quot; because the very
+first initial letter of the text, representing C, introduces us to
+the <EM>bizarrerie</EM> of the early part of the XVIth century in
+treatises of a similar character. Take this first letter, with a
+specimen also of those to which it appertains.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/243.png" alt="Initial letter C"></DIV>
+
+<P>This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse
+on that account) precepts of the same period; such as we see in the
+various versions of the &quot;De Moribus Juvenum,&quot; of which
+the &quot;<EM>Contenance de la Table,&quot;</EM> in the French
+language, is probably the most popular. It is executed throughout
+in the same small and smudged gothic character; and, as I conceive;
+can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not be dismissed
+without respectful mention of the typographical talents of LE ROY;
+who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmer
+and Bensley of the place.</P>
+
+<P>But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap
+popular pieces, there is no man who &quot;drives such a trade&quot;
+as PICARD-GUERIN, <EM>Imprimeur en taille-douce et Fabricant
+d&#39;Images</EM>,&quot; who lives in the <EM>Rue des
+Teinturiers,</EM> no.175. I paid him more than one visit; as, from,
+his &quot;fabrication,&quot; issue the thousands and tens of
+thousands of broadsides, chap-books, &amp;c. &amp;c. which inundate
+Lower Normandy. You give from <EM>one</EM> to <EM>three</EM> sous,
+according as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood or upon
+copper:--Saints, martyrs, and scriptural subjects; or heroes,
+chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and
+Louis XVIII. le Désiré--are among the taille-douces specified in
+the imprints. Madame did me the honour of shewing me some of her
+choicest treasures, as her husband was from home. Up stairs was a
+parcel of mirthful boys and girls, with painting brushes in their
+hands, and saucers of various colours before them. Upon enquiry, I
+found that they received four sous per dozen, for colouring; but I
+will not take upon me to say that they were over or under paid--of
+so <EM>equivocal</EM> a character were their performances. Only I
+hoped to be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a
+foreign country, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the
+most mean and minute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what
+was put before me, and made a selection sufficient to shew that it
+was the produce of French soil. Among the serious subjects were
+<EM>two</EM> to which I paid particular attention. The one was a
+metrical cantique of the <EM>Prodigal Son,</EM> with six wood cuts
+above the text, exhibiting the leading points of the
+Gospel-narrative. I will cut out and send you the <EM>second</EM>
+of these six: in which you will clearly perceive the military turn
+which seems to prevail throughout France in things the most minute.
+The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and leave his father&#39;s
+house, in the cloke and cock&#39;d hat of a French officer.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:70%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/245.png" alt="French officer"></DIV>
+
+<P>The <EM>fourth</EM> of these cuts is droll enough. It is
+entitled, &quot;<EM>L&#39;Enfant Prodigue est chassé par ses
+maîtresses.&quot;</EM> The expulsion consists in the women driving
+him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is very probable,
+however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some of
+our own representations of the same subject; if, instead of
+examining (as in Pope&#39;s time)</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">... the walls of Bedlam and Soho,</P>
+
+<P>we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from
+strings upon the wall at Hyde Park Corner.</P>
+
+<P>Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to
+describe to you, can rarely, in all probability, be the production
+of a London artist. It is called &quot;<EM>Notre-Dame de la bonne
+Délivrande</EM>,&quot; and is necessarily confined to the religion
+of the country. You have here, first of all, a reduced form of the
+original: probably about one-third--and it is the more appropriate,
+as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of the dressing
+out of the figures of the VIRGIN and CHILD which are meant to grace
+the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in
+Normandy. Is it possible that one spark of devotion can be kindled
+by the contemplation of an object so grotesque and so absurd in the
+House of God?</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:60%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/247.png" alt=
+"SAINTE MARIE, MÈRE DE DIEU, priez pour nous."></DIV>
+
+<P>To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in
+the original, would be a waste of time; but below are two good
+figures to the right, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath
+the whole, is the following <EM>accredited</EM> consoling piece of
+intelligence:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">L&#39;AN 830, <EM>des Barbares descendent dans les
+Gaules, massacrent les Fidèles, profanent et brûlent les Eglises.
+Raoul, Duc de Normandie, se joint à eux; l&#39;image de la Ste.
+Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les ruines de l&#39;ancienne chapelle
+jusqu&#39;au règne de Henri I. l&#39;an 1331. Beaudouin, Baron de
+Douvres, averti par son berger qu&#39;un mouton de son troupeau
+fouillait toujours dans le même endroit, fit ouvrir la terre, et
+trouva ce trésor caché depuis tant d&#39;années. Il fit porter
+processionnellement cette sainte image dans l&#39;Eglise de
+Douvres: mais Dieu permit qu&#39;elle fut transportée par un Ange
+dans l&#39;endroit de la chapelle où elle est maintenant révérée.
+C&#39;est dans cette chapelle que, par l&#39;intercession de Marie,
+les pécheurs reçoivent leur conversion, les affligés leur
+consolation, les infirmes la santé, les captifs leur delivrance,
+que ceux qui sont en mer échappent aux tempêtes et au naufrage, et
+que des miracles s&#39;opèrent journellement sur les pieux
+Fidèles</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>A word now for BIBLIOPOLISTS--including <EM>Bouquinistes</EM>,
+or venders of &quot;old and second-hand books.&quot; The very
+morning following my arrival in Caen, I walked to the abbey of St.
+Stephen, before breakfast, and in the way thither stopped at a book
+stall, to the right,--and purchased some black letter folios: among
+which the French version of <EM>Caesar&#39;s Commentaries,</EM>
+printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It
+is reserved for Lord Spencer&#39;s library;<A name=
+"fnref_128"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_128">128</A> at a price
+which, freight and duty included, cannot reach the sum of twelve
+shillings of our money. Of venders of second hand and old books,
+the elder and younger MANOURY take a decisive lead. The former
+lives in the <EM>Rue Froide</EM>; the latter in the <EM>Rue Notre
+Dame.</EM> The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousand
+volumes, but I much doubt whether his stock amount to one half of
+that number. He unhesitatingly asked me two <EM>louis d&#39;or</EM>
+for a copy of the <EM>Vaudevires</EM> of OLIVIER BASSELIN, which is
+a modern, but privately printed, volume; and of which I hope to
+give you some amusing particulars by and by. He also told me that
+he had formerly sold a paper copy of <EM>Fust&#39;s Bible of
+1462,</EM> with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the
+library of the Arsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d&#39;or. I only
+know that, if I had been librarian, he should not have had one half
+the money.</P>
+
+<P>Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative
+terms: for be it known that the son is &quot;agé de soixante
+ans.&quot; Over his door you read an ancient inscription, thus:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&quot;<EM>Battu, percé, lié, Je veux changer de
+main</EM>.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>This implies either (like Aladdin&#39;s old lamps for new) that
+he wishes to give new books in exchange for old ones, or that he
+can smarten up old ones by binding, or otherwise, and give them a
+renovated appearance. But the solution is immaterial: the
+inscription being as above. The interior of the younger
+Manoury&#39;s book repository almost appalled me. His front shop,
+and a corridor communicating with the back part of the house, are
+rank with moisture; and his books are consequently rotting apace.
+Upon my making as pitiable a statement as I was able of this
+melancholy state of things--and pleading with all my energies
+against the inevitable destruction which threatened the dear
+books--the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not one scintillation of
+sympathy. He was absolutely indifferent to the whole concern. In
+the back parlour, almost impervious to day-light, his daughter, and
+a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevated
+cauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner.
+I hurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies
+for the intrusion; but was told that none were necessary--that I
+might go where, and stay as long, as I pleased--and that any
+explanation would be given to my interrogatories in the way of
+business. I expressed my obligations for such civility; and gaining
+an upper room, by the help of a chair, made a survey of its
+contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as the
+only rational or desirable volume--half rotted with moisture--
+<EM>Belon&#39;s Marine Fishes</EM>, 1551, 4to; and placing six
+francs (the price demanded) upon the table, hurried back, through
+this sable and dismal territory, with a sort of precipitancy
+amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive of a very
+extraordinary effect--was the cheerfulness and <EM>gaieté de
+coeur</EM> of these females, in the midst of this region of
+darkness and desolation. Manoury told me that the Revolution had
+deprived him of the opportunity of having the finest bookselling
+stock in France! His own carelessness and utter apathy are likely
+to prove yet more destructive enemies.</P>
+
+<P>But let us touch a more &quot;spirit-stirring&quot; chord in the
+book theme. Let us leave the <EM>Bouquiniste</EM> for the PUBLIC
+LIBRARY: and I invite you most earnestly to accompany me thither,
+and to hear matters of especial import. This library occupies the
+upper part of a fine large stone building, devoted to the public
+offices of government. The plan of the library is exceedingly
+striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred and
+thirty-four, by eighty, French feet; and is supposed, apparently
+with justice, to contain 20,000 volumes. It is proportionably wide
+and lofty. M. HÉBERT is the present chief librarian, having
+succeeded the late M. Moysant, his uncle. Among the more eminent
+benefactors and Bibliomaniacs, attached to this library, the name
+of FRANCOIS MARTIN is singularly conspicuous. He was, from all
+accounts, and especially from the information of M. Hébert, one of
+the most raving of book-madmen: but he displayed, withal, a spirit
+of kindness and liberality towards his favourite establishment at
+Caen, which could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was also a
+man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literary
+propensities--a love of the LITERATURE OF HIS COUNTRY. He amassed a
+very large collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during
+the Revolution; but the public library became possessed of a great
+number of them. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which
+are now seen, is the following printed inscription:
+&quot;<EM>Franciscus Martin, Doctor Theologus Parisiensis,
+comparavit. Oretur pro co</EM>.&quot; He was head of the convent of
+Cordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting
+was not always that which a public magistrate would call
+<EM>legitimate</EM>. He sought books every where; and when he could
+not <EM>buy</EM> them, or obtain them by fair means, he would
+<EM>steal</EM> them, and carry them home in the sleeves of his
+gown! He flourished about a century ago; and, with very few
+exceptions, all the best conditioned books in the library belonged
+to this magisterial book-robber. Among them I noted down with
+singular satisfaction the Aldine edition of <EM>Stephanus de
+Urbibus</EM>, 1502, folio--in its old vellum binding: seemly to the
+eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the
+<EM>Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis</EM>, printed by
+<EM>Amerbach, at Basil</EM>, in a glorious gothic character, 1510,
+folio, escape my especial notice--also the same Bibliomaniac&#39;s
+beautiful copy of the <EM>Mentz Herbal</EM>, of 1484, in 4to.</P>
+
+<P>But the obliquities of Martin assume a less questionable aspect,
+when we contemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but
+left behind ready for publication. It is thus entitled: <EM>Athenæ
+Normannorum veteres ac recentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi
+è Normannia, &amp;c.</EM> It consists of one volume, in MS., having
+the authority of government, to publish it, prefixed. There is a
+short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pages of Latin
+verses beginning thus:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>In Auctorum Normannicorum Syllabum.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Prolusio metrica.</SPAN><BR>
+ En Syllabus prodit palàm<BR>
+ Contextus arte sedula<BR>
+ Ex litteratæ Neustriæ<BR>
+ Auctoribus celebribus.</EM><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">&amp;c. &amp;c.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P>Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,<A
+name="fnref_129"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_129">129</A> was
+the famous SAMUEL BOCHART; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a
+critic of distinguished celebrity. He was a native of Rouen, and
+his books (many of them replete with valuable ms. notes) are among
+the chief treasures of the public library, here. Indeed there is a
+distinct catalogue of them, and the funds left by their illustrious
+owner form the principal support of the library establishment.
+Bochart&#39;s portrait, with those of many other benefactors to the
+library, adorns the walls; suspended above the books: affording a
+very agreeable coup-d&#39;oeil. Indeed the principal division of
+the library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect,
+is worthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an
+empire. The kindness of M. Hébert, and of his assistant, rendered
+my frequent sojournings therein yet more delectable. The portrait
+of his uncle, M. MOYSANT, is among the ornaments of the chief room.
+Though Moysant was large of stature, his lungs were feeble, and his
+constitution was delicate. At the age of nineteen, he was appointed
+professor of grammar and rhetoric in the college of Lisieux. He
+then went to Paris, and studied under Beau and Batteux; when,
+applying himself more particularly to the profession of physic, he
+returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap of
+Doctor of medicine; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for the
+successful exercise of his profession. He had cured a patient,
+after painful and laborious attention, of a very serious illness;
+but his patient chose to take liberties too soon with his
+convalescent state. He was imprudent: had a relapse; and was
+hurried to his grave. Moysant took it seriously to heart, and gave
+up his business in precipitancy and disgust. In fact, he was of too
+sanguine and irritable a temperament for the display of that cool,
+cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young
+physicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the
+honours or the wealth of the <EM>Halfords</EM> and <EM>Matons</EM>
+of the day! Our Moysant returned to the study of his beloved
+belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the Society of the Jesuits
+was suppressed; and he was called by the King, in 1763, to fill the
+chair of Rhetoric in one of the finest establishments of that body
+at Caen. He afterwards successively became perpetual Secretary of
+the Academy of Sciences, and Vice-President of the Society of
+Agriculture. He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the
+faculty of arts, and was selected to pronounce the public oration
+upon the marriage of the unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie
+Antoinette. He was now a marked and distinguished public character.
+The situation of PUBLIC LIBRARIAN was only wanting to render his
+reputation complete, and <EM>that</EM> he instantly obtained upon
+the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united
+that of instructing the English (who were always in the habit of
+visiting Caen,) in the French language; and he obtained, in return,
+from some of his adult pupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and
+liberties of Old England.</P>
+
+<P>The Revolution now came on: when, like many of his respectable
+brethren, he hailed it at first as the harbinger of national
+reformation and prosperity. But he had soon reason to find that he
+had been deceived. However, in the fervour of the moment, and upon
+the suppression of the monastic and other public libraries, he
+received a very wide and unqualified commission to search all the
+libraries in the department of <EM>Calvados</EM>, and to bring home
+to Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this
+mission with truly public spirited ideas: resolving (says his
+nephew) to do for Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for
+England--and a <EM>Monasticum Neustriacum</EM> was the commendable
+object of his ambition. He promised much, and perhaps did more than
+he promised. His curious collection (exclusively of the cart-loads
+of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his countrymen; but
+the guillotine was now the order of the day--when Moysant
+&quot;resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility
+the plan of his work, as that nation always attached importance to
+the preservation of the monuments, or literary materials, of the
+middle ages.&quot;--He knew (continues the nephew) how proud the
+English were of their descent from the Norman nobles, and it was
+only to put them in possession of the means of preserving the
+unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly came
+over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants;
+their return was interdicted; and our bibliomaniac learnt, with
+heart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the
+national property in France. He was therefore to live by his wits;
+having spiritedly declined all offer of assistance from the English
+government. In this dilemma he published a work entitled
+&quot;<EM>Bibliothèque des Ecrivains Français, ou choix des
+meilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leurs
+ouvrages</EM>,&quot;--a collection, which was formed with judgment,
+and which was attended with complete success. The first edition was
+in four octavo volumes, in 1800; the second, in six volumes 1803; a
+third edition, I think, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the
+English and French languages. It was during his stay amongst us
+that he was deservedly admitted a member of the Society of
+Antiquaries; but he returned to France in 1802, before the
+appearance of the second edition of his <EM>Bibliothèque</EM>;
+when, hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between the
+book-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter
+place--and again perched himself (at the united call of his
+townsmen) upon the chair destined for the PUBLIC LIBRARIAN! It was
+to give order, method, and freedom of access, to the enormous mass
+of books, which the dissolution of the monastic libraries had
+caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysant and his colleagues
+now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as it was
+unintermitting. But the health of our generalissimo, which had been
+impaired during his residence in England, began to give way beneath
+such a pressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence
+to prolong his life till towards the close of the year 1813: when
+he had the satisfaction of viewing his folios, quartos, octavos,
+and duodecimos, arranged in regular succession, and fair array;
+when his work was honestly done; and when future visitors had only
+to stretch forth their hands and gather the fruit which he had
+placed within their reach. His death (we are told)<A name=
+"fnref_130"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_130">130</A> was gentle,
+and like unto sleep. Religion had consoled him in his latter
+moments; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with
+perfect composure for the breathing of his last sigh! Let the name
+of MOYSANT be mentioned with the bibliomaniacal honours which, are
+doubtless its due!...</P>
+
+<P>From Librarians, revert we to books: to the books in the PUBLIC
+LIBRARY of Caen. The oldest printed volume contained in it, and
+which had been bound with a MS, on the supposition of its being a
+manuscript also, is Numeister&#39;s impression of <EM>Aretinus de
+Bella adversus Gothós</EM>, 1470, folio; the first book from the
+press of the printer. I undeceived M. Hébert, who had supposed it
+to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and the book is
+bound in boards; &quot;all proper.&quot; The oldest <EM>Latin
+Bible</EM> they possess, is of the date of 1485; but there is
+preserved one volume of Sweynheym and Pannartz&#39;s impression of
+<EM>De Lyra&#39;s Commentary upon the Bible</EM>, of the date of
+1471-2, which luckily contains the list of books printed by those
+printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to Pope Sixtus IV.
+The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the <EM>Juvenal</EM> of
+1474, with the <EM>Commentary of Calderinus</EM>, printed at Rome;
+unless a dateless impression of <EM>Lucan</EM>, in the earliest
+type of Gering, with the verses placed at a considerable distance
+from each other, claim chronological precedence. There is also a
+<EM>Valerius Maximus</EM> of 1475, by Cæsaris and Stol, but without
+their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning. Of the
+same date is Gering&#39;s impression of the <EM>Legenda
+Sanctorum</EM>; and among the Fifteeners I almost coveted a very
+elegant specimen of <EM>Jehan du Pré&#39;s</EM> printing (with a
+device used by him never before seen by me,) of an edition of
+<EM>La Vie des Peres</EM>, 1494, folio, in its original binding. I
+collected, from the written catalogue, that they had only
+FORTY-FIVE works printed in the FIFTEENTH CENTURY; and of these,
+none were of first-rate quality.</P>
+
+<P>Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beautiful penmanship
+of a work, in three folio volumes, of the middle of the sixteenth
+century, entitled; <EM>Divertissemens touchant le faict de la
+guerre, extraits des livres de Polybe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan,
+Machiavel, et autres bons autheurs.&quot;</EM> It has no
+illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A <EM>Breviary of
+the Church Service of Lisieux</EM>, of the fifteenth century, has
+some pretty but common illuminations. It is not however free from
+injury. Of more intrinsic worth is a MS. entitled <EM>Du
+Costentin</EM>, (a district not far from Caen,) with the following
+prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. &quot;Ces mémoires sont de
+M. Toustaint de Billy, curé du Mesnil au- parc, qui avoit travaillé
+toute sa vie à l&#39;histoire du Cotentin. Ils sont rares et
+m&#39;ont été accordes par M. Jourdan, Notaire, auquel ils
+appartenoient. Le p. (Père) le Long et Mons. Teriet de fontette ne
+les out pas connu. Moysantz.&quot; It is a small folio, in a neat
+hand-writing. Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and printed
+leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, is
+entitled <EM>Le Moreri des Normans, par Joseph Andrié Guiat de
+Rouen:</EM> on the reverse of the title, we read,
+&quot;<EM>Supplément au Dictionnaire de Moreri pour ce qui concerne
+la province de Normandie, et ses illustres</EM>.&quot; A short
+preface follows; then an ode &quot;aux Grands Hommes de
+Normandie.&quot; It is executed in the manner of a dictionary,
+running in alphabetical order. The first volume extends to the
+letter I, and is illustrated with scraps from newspapers, and a few
+portraits. It is written pretty fully in double columns. The
+portrait and biography of <EM>Bouzard</EM> form an admirable
+specimen of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes
+to Z. The third volume is entitled &quot;<EM>Les trois Siècles
+palinodiques, ou Histoire Générale des Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe,
+&amp;c.</EM>--by the same hand, with an equal quantity of matter.
+It is right that such labours should be noticed, for the sake of
+all future BLISS-like editors of provincial literature. There is
+another similar work, in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to
+<EM>Coutance</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period,
+it may be right to inform you that the treasures of this Library
+suffered materially from the commotions of the Calvinists. Those
+hot-headed interpreters of scripture destroyed every thing in the
+shape of ornament or elegance attached to book-covers; and piles of
+volumes, however sacred, or unexceptionable on the score of good
+morals, were consigned to the fury of the flames. Of the remaining
+volumes which I saw, take the following very rapid sketch. Of
+<EM>Hours</EM>, or <EM>Church Services</EM>, there is a
+prodigiously fine copy of an edition printed by <EM>Vostre</EM>, in
+4to., upon paper, without date. It is in the original ornamented
+cover, or binding, with a forest of rough edges to the leaves--and
+doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever saw. Compared with
+this, how inferior, in every respect is a cropt copy of
+<EM>Kerver&#39;s</EM> impression of a similar work, printed upon
+vellum! This latter is indeed a very indifferent book; but the
+rough usage it has met with is the sole cause of such inferiority.
+I was well pleased with a fair, sound copy of the <EM>Speculum
+Stultorum</EM>, in 4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and pentameter
+verses, without date. Nor did I examine without interest a rare
+little volume entitled &quot;<EM>Les Origines de quelques Coutumes
+anciennes, et de plusieurs façons de parler triviales. Avec un
+vieux Manuscrit en vers, touchant l&#39;Origine des Chevaliers
+Bannerets</EM>; printed at Caen in 1672, 12mo.: a curious little
+work. They have a fine (royal) copy of <EM>Walton&#39;s
+Polyglot</EM>, with an excellent impression of the head; and a
+large paper copy of <EM>Stephen&#39;s Greek Glossary</EM>; in old
+vellum binding, with a great number of ms. notes by Bochart. Also a
+fine large paper <EM>Photius</EM> of 1654, folio. But among their
+LARGE PAPERS, few volumes tower with greater magnificence than do
+the three folios of <EM>La Sainte Bible</EM>, printed by the
+Elzevirs at Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures;
+of the stateliest dimensions and most attractive forms. They also
+pretend that their large paper copy of the first edition of
+<EM>Huet&#39;s Praeparatio Evangelica</EM>, in folio, is unique.
+Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Library himself.
+The <EM>Basil Eustathius</EM> of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as
+glorious a copy as is Mr. Grenville&#39;s of the Roman edition of
+1542.<A name="fnref_131"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_131">131</A> It is in its pristine membranaceous attire--the
+vellum lapping over the fore-edges, in the manner of Mr.
+Heber&#39;s copy of the first Aldine Aristotle,--most comfortable
+to behold! There is a fine large paper copy of <EM>Montaigne&#39;s
+Essays</EM>, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of
+the author. It is bound in red morocco, and considered by M. Hébert
+a most rare and desirable book. Indeed I was told that one
+Collector in particular was exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw
+a fine copy of the folio edition of <EM>Ronsard</EM>, printed in
+1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copy of the well
+known <EM>Liber Nanceidos</EM>, from Bochart&#39;s library, with a
+few ms. notes by Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a
+French metrical version of the works of <EM>Virgil, by Robert and
+Anthony Chevaliers d&#39;Agneaux freres, de Vire, en
+Normandie</EM>; published at Paris in 1582, in elegant italic type;
+considered rare. The same translators published a version of
+Horace; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of
+a certain work (in one of my late letters) called <EM>Les
+Vaudevires d&#39;Olivier Basselin</EM>. They preserve here a very
+choice copy of it, in 4to., large paper; and of which size only ten
+copies are said to be in existence. The entire title is
+&quot;<EM>Les Vaudevires Poesies du XVme. siècle, par Olivier
+Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour
+l&#39;explication de quelques anciens Mots: Vire, 1811</EM>.&quot;
+8vo. There are copies upon pink paper, of which this is one--and
+which was in fact presented to the Library by the Editors. Prefixed
+to it, is an indifferent drawing, in india ink, representing the
+old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with Basselin seated at
+a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting his
+verses &quot;à pleine gorge.&quot; This Basselin appears in short
+to have been the French DRUNKEN BARNABY of his day.</P>
+
+<P>&quot;What! (say you:) &quot;not <EM>one</EM> single specimen
+from the library of your favourite DIANE DE POICTIERS? Can this be
+possible?&quot;--No more of interrogatory, I beseech you: but
+listen attentively and gratefully to the intelligence which you are
+about to receive--and fancy not, if you have any respect for my
+taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane de Poictiers. On
+looking sharply about you, within this library, there will be found
+a magnificent copy of the <EM>Commentaries of Chrysostom upon the
+Epistles of St. Paul</EM>, printed by <EM>Stephanus et Fratres a
+Sabio, at Verona</EM>, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by
+much and by far the finest Greek work which I ever saw from the
+<EM>Sabii</EM> Press.<A name="fnref_132"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_132">132</A> No wonder Colbert jumped with avidity to obtain
+such a copy of it: for, bating that it is &quot;un peu rogné,&quot;
+the condition and colour are quite enchanting. And then for the
+binding!--which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had the
+good sense and good taste to leave <EM>untouched</EM>. The first
+and second volumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the
+centre, and the half moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the
+arabesque ornaments, or surrounding border is in gilt. The edges
+are gilt, stamped; flush with the fore edges of the binding. In the
+centre of the sides of the binding, is a large H, with a fleur de
+lis at top: the top and bottom borders presenting the usual D and
+H, united, of which you may take a peep in the <EM>Bibliographical
+Decameron.</EM> The third volume is in dark blue leather, with the
+same side ornaments; and the title of the work, as with the
+preceding volumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown,
+and monogram, as before; but the edges of the leaves are, in this
+volume, stamped at bottom and top with an H, surmounted by a crown.
+The sides of the binding are also fuller and richer than in the
+preceding volumes. This magnificent copy was given to the Library
+by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way.</P>
+
+<P>Another specimen, if you please, from the library of our
+favourite Diana. It is rather of a singular character: consisting
+of a French version of that once extremely popular work (originally
+published in the Latin language) called the <EM>Cosmography of
+Sebastian Munster.</EM> The edition is of the date of 1556, in
+folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is yet curious.
+It contains two portraits of Henry the Second (&quot;HENRICVS II.
+GALLIARVM REX INVICTISS. PP.&quot;) and four of Holofernes
+(&quot;OLOFARNE.&quot;) on each side of the binding. In the centre
+of the sides we recognise the lunar ornaments of Diane de
+Poictiers; but on the back, are five portraits of her, in gilt,
+each within the bands--and, like all the other ornaments, much
+rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of
+Henry. There are also on the sides two pretty medallions of a
+winged figure blowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn
+by four horses: there are also small fleur de lis scattered between
+the ornaments of the sides of the binding. The date of the
+medallion seems to be 1553. The copy is cruelly cropt, and the
+volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes it the more
+surprising that such pains should have been taken with its
+bibliopegistic embellishments. Upon the whole, this copy, for the
+sake of its ornaments, is vehemently desirable.</P>
+
+<P>And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M.
+Hébert, and bid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Caen. Indeed I am
+fully disposed to bid farewell to every thing else in the same
+town: not however without being conscious that very much, both of
+what I have, and of what I have not, seen, merits a detail well
+calculated to please the intellectual appetites of travellers. What
+I have seen, has been indeed but summarily, and even superficially,
+described; but I have done my best; and was fearful of exciting
+ennui by a more parish-register-like description. For the service
+performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to my
+Rouen details--except that there is here an agreeable PROTESTANT
+CHURCH, of which M. MARTIN ROLLIN, is the Pastor. He has just
+published a &quot;<EM>Mémoire Historique sur l&#39;Etat
+Eclésiastique des Protestans François depuis François Ler
+jusqu&#39;à Louis XVIII</EM>:&quot; in a pamphlet of some fourscore
+pages. The task was equally delicate and difficult of execution;
+but having read it, I am free to confess that M. Rollin has done
+his work very neatly and very cleverly. I went in company with Mrs.
+and Miss I---- to hear the author preach; for he is a young man
+(about thirty) who draws his congregation as much from his talents
+as a preacher, as from his moral worth as an individual. It was on
+the occasion of several young ladies and gentlemen taking the
+sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe,
+according to the Geneva persuasion; but there was something so
+comfortable, and to me so cheering, in the avowed doctrine of
+Protestantism, that I accompanied my friends with alacrity to the
+spot. Many English were present; for M. Rollin is deservedly a
+favourite with our countrymen. The church, however, was scarcely
+half filled. The interior is the most awkwardly adapted imaginable
+to the purposes either of reading or of preaching: for it consists
+of two aisles at right angles with each other. The desk and pulpit
+are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; so that the
+voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapes
+the preacher. After a very long, and a very tediously sung psalm,
+M. Rollin commenced his discourse. He is an extemporaneous
+preacher. His voice is sweet and clear, rather than sonorous and
+impressive; and he is perhaps, occasionally, too metaphorical in
+his composition. For the first time I heard the words &quot;<EM>Oh
+Dieu!</EM>&quot; pronounced with great effect: but the sermon was
+made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin was
+frequently ingenious; logical, and convincing; and his address to
+the young communicants, towards the close of his discourse, was
+impressive and efficient. The young people were deeply touched by
+his powerful appeal, and I believe each countenance was suffused
+with tears. He guarded them against the dangers and temptations of
+that world upon which they were about to enter, by setting before
+them the consolations of the religion which they had professed, in
+a manner which indicated that he had really their interests and
+happiness at heart.</P>
+
+<P>A word only about COURTS OF JUSTICE. &quot;A smack of the
+whip&quot; will tingle in my ears through life;<A name=
+"fnref_133"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_133">133</A> and I shall
+always attend &quot;<EM>Nisi Prius</EM>&quot; exhibitions with more
+than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning to the <EM>Place de
+Justice</EM>--which is well situated, in an airy and respectable
+neighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume,
+pretty nearly in the English fashion; walking quickly to and fro
+with their clients, in the open air before the hall; and could not
+help contrasting the quick eye and unconcerned expression of
+countenance of the former, with the simple look and yet earnest
+action of the latter. I entered the Hall, and, to my astonishment,
+heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteen people were
+present, I approached the bench; and what, think you, were the
+intellectual objects upon which my eye alighted? Three Judges ...
+all fast asleep! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding: one was
+literally addressing <EM>the bench</EM> ... and the remaining two
+were talking to their clients in the most unconcerned manner
+imaginable. The entire effect, on my mind, was ridiculous in the
+extreme. Far be it from me, however, to designate the foregoing as
+a generally true picture of the administration of Justice at Caen.
+I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so long celebrated
+for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to exhibit
+proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned
+of old. I am willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike
+somniferous; and that if the acuteness of our GIFFORDS, and the
+rhetoric of our DENMANS, sometimes instruct and enliven the
+audience, there will be found Judges to argue like GIBBS and to
+decide like SCOTT.<A name="fnref_134"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_134">134</A> Farewell.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XIV.</H3>
+
+<P>BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF
+THE CATHEDRAL.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Bayeux, May 16</EM>, 1818.</P>
+
+<P>Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at
+this place. The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places
+of worship in Normandy)<A name="fnref_135"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_135">135</A> has been paced with a reverential step, and
+surveyed with a careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood
+of Ducarel has made my heart beat with an increased action; and
+although this town be even dreary, as well as thinly peopled, there
+is that about it which, from associations of ideas, can never fail
+to afford a lively interest to a British antiquary.</P>
+
+<P>The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a
+half. The country, during the whole route, is open, well
+cultivated, occasionally gently undulating, but generally denuded
+of trees. Many pretty little churches, with delicate spires, peeped
+out to the right and left during the journey; but the first view of
+the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the others out of my recollection.
+I was conveyed to the <EM>Hôtel de Luxembourg</EM>, the best inn in
+the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Mine hostess
+is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the art
+and craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow or
+disappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding
+year, been occupied in making a fac-simile of the &quot;famous
+tapestry&quot; for our Society of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine
+hostess had been acquainted with that gentleman:
+&quot;Monsieur,&quot; &quot;je le connois bien; c&#39;est un brave
+homme: il demeura tout près: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre
+diables!&quot; I will not disguise that this eulogy of our amiable
+countryman<A name="fnref_136"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_136">136</A> pleased me &quot;right well&quot;--though I was
+pretty sure that such language was the current (and to me somewhat
+<EM>coarse</EM>) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead
+of &quot;vin ordinaire&quot; I ordered, rather in a gay and
+triumphant manner, &quot;une bouteille du vin de
+Beaune&quot;--&quot;Ah! ça,&quot; (replied the lively landlady,)
+&quot;vous le trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n&#39;y a pas du
+vin comme le vin de Beaune.&quot; Bespeaking my dinner, I strolled
+towards the cathedral.</P>
+
+<P>There is, in fact, no proper approach to this interesting
+edifice. The western end is suffocated with houses. Here stands the
+post-office; and with the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part
+of the owner, I had permission to examine, with my own hands,
+within doors, every letter--under the expectation that there were
+some for myself. Nor was I disappointed. But you must come with me
+to the cathedral: and of course we must enter together at the
+western front. There are five porticos: the central one being
+rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small.
+Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments;
+but the Calvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the
+eighteenth century, have contrived to render their present aspect
+mutilated and repulsive in the extreme. On entering, I was struck
+with the two large transverse Norman arches which bestride the
+area, or square, for the bases of the two towers. It is the boldest
+and finest piece of masonry in the whole building. The interior
+disappointed me. It is plain, solid, and divested of ornament. A
+very large wooden crucifix is placed over the screen of the choir,
+which has an effect--of its kind: but the monuments, and mural
+ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamented arches,
+on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars,
+have rather an imposing effect: above them are Gothic ornaments of
+a later period, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. Let me
+now suppose that the dinner is over, and the &quot;vin de
+Beaune&quot; approved of--and that on a second visit, immediately
+afterwards, there is both time and inclination for a leisurely
+survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisle to the
+left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy green
+tint indicative of premature decay--arising from the lead (of that
+part of the roof,) having been stript for the purpose of making
+bullets during the Revolution. The extreme length of the interior
+is about 320 English feet, by 76 high, and the same number of feet
+in width. The transepts are about 125 feet long, by 36 wide. The
+western towers, to the very top of the spires, are about 250
+English feet in height.</P>
+
+<P>One of the most curious objects in the Cathedral, is the CRYPT;
+of which, singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till
+the year 1412. The circumstance of its discovery is told in the
+following inscription, cut in the Gothic letter, upon a brass
+plate, and placed just above the southern entrance:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>En lan mil quatre cens et douze<BR>
+ Tiers iour d&#39;Auril que pluye arrouse<BR>
+ Les biens de la terre, la journee<BR>
+ Que la Pasques fut celebree<BR>
+ Noble homme et Reverend Pere<BR>
+ Jehan de Boissey, de&#39;la Mere<BR>
+ Eglise de Bayeux Pasteur<BR>
+ Rendi l&#39;ame a son Createur<BR>
+ Et lors enfoissant la place<BR>
+ Devant la grand Autel de grace<BR>
+ Trova l&#39;on la basse Chapelle<BR>
+ Dont il n&#39;avoit ete nouvelle<BR>
+ Ou il est mis en sepulture<BR>
+ Dieu ueuille avoir son ame en cure. Amen</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular
+juncture. The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand
+<EM>Ordination</EM>. Before I had quitted my bed, I heard the
+mellow and measured notes of human voices; and starting up, I saw
+an almost interminable procession of priests, deacons, &amp;c.,
+walking singly behind each other, in two lines, leaving a
+considerable space between them. They walked bareheaded, chanting,
+with a book in their hands; and bent their course towards the
+cathedral. I dressed quickly; and, dispatching my breakfast with
+equal promptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western
+doors, thrown wide open, I shall never forget the effect produced
+by the crimson and blue draperies of the Norman women:--a great
+number of whom were clustered, in groups, upon the top of the
+screen, about the huge wooden crucifix;-- witnessing the office of
+ordination going on below, in the choir. They seemed to be
+suspended in the air; and considering the piece of sculpture around
+which they appeared to gather themselves--with the elevation of the
+screen itself--it was a combination of objects upon which the
+pencil might have been exercised with the happiest possible result.
+An ordination in a foreign country, and especially one upon such an
+apparently extensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be
+slighted; and accordingly I determined upon making the most of the
+spectacle before me. Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt,
+I observed that some religious ceremony was going on there. The
+northern grate, or entrance, being open, I descended a flight of
+steps, and quickly became an inmate of this subterraneous abode.
+The first object that struck me was, the warm glow of day light
+which darted upon the broad pink cross of the surplice of an
+officiating priest: a candle was burning upon the altar, on each
+side of him: another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an
+assistant; and each, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed ... to
+the admiration of some few half dozen casual yet attentive
+visitors--while the full sonorous chant, from the voices of upwards
+of one hundred and fifty priests and deacons, from the choir above,
+gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to the mysterious gloom
+below.</P>
+
+<P>I now ascended; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the
+ceremony through the intercolumniations of the choir: my
+diffidence, or rather apprehension of refusal, having withheld me
+from striving to gain admittance within the body. But my situation
+was a singularly good one: opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld
+this vast clerical congregation at times kneeling, or standing, or
+sitting: partially, or wholly: while the swell of their voices,
+accompanied by the full intonations of the organ, and the yet more
+penetrating notes of the <EM>serpent</EM>, seemed to breathe more
+than earthly solemnity around. The ceremony had now continued full
+two hours; when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it,
+and while the young candidates for ordination were prostrate before
+the high altar (the diapason stop of the organ, as at Dieppe,<A
+name="fnref_137"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_137">137</A>
+sending forth the softest notes) the venerable Bishop placed the
+glittering mitre (apparently covered with gold gauze) upon his
+head, and with a large gilt crosier in his right hand, descended,
+with a measured and majestic step, from the floor of the altar, and
+proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of his
+office. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands,
+were touched with the holy oil--and thus became consecrated. On
+rising, each received a small piece of bread between the thumb and
+forefinger, and the middle and third fingers; their hands being
+pressed together--and, still with closed eyes, they retired behind
+the high altar, where an officiating priest made use of the bread
+to rub off the holy oil. The Bishop is an elderly man, about three
+score and ten; he has the usual sallow tint of his countrymen, but
+his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black and overhanging
+eyebrows, is sharp and expressive. His whole mien has the
+indication of a well-bred and well-educated gentleman. When he
+descended with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high
+altar, me-thought I saw some of the venerable forms of our WYKEHAMS
+and WAYNEFLETES of old-- commanding the respect, and receiving the
+homage, of a grateful congregation! At the very moment my mind was
+deeply occupied by the effects produced from this magnificent
+spectacle, I strolled into <EM>Our Lady&#39;s Chapel</EM>, behind
+the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousness into
+surprise--bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotely
+situated chapel, stands the IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN with the infant
+Jesus in her arms. This is the usual chief ornament of Our
+Lady&#39;s Chapel. But what drapery for the mother of the sacred
+child!--stiff, starch, rectangularly-folded, white muslin, stuck
+about with diverse artificial flowers--like unto a shew figure in
+Brook Green Fair! This ridiculous and most disgusting costume began
+more particularly at Caudebec. Why is it persevered in? Why is it
+endured? The French have a quick sensibility, and a lively
+apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts of
+sculpture and painting ... but the terms &quot;joli,&quot;
+&quot;gentil,&quot; and &quot;propre,&quot; are made use of, like
+charity, to &quot;cover a multitude of sins&quot; ... or
+aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this
+chapel, but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet
+affords proof of its pristine splendour. It is covered with gold
+and colours. Two or three supplicants were kneeling before the
+crucifix, and appeared to be so absorbed in their devotions as to
+be insensible of every surrounding object. To them, the particular
+saint (I have forgotten the name) to whom the little chapel was
+dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting than the
+general voice of &quot;praise and thanksgiving&quot; with which the
+choir of the cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must
+know that fourscore candidates were ordained: that there are sixty
+clergy attached to the cathedral;<A name="fnref_138"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_138">138</A> and that upwards of four hundred
+thousand souls are under the spiritual cognizance of the BISHOP OF
+BAYEUX. The treasures of the Cathedral were once excessive,<A name=
+"fnref_139"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_139">139</A> and the
+episcopal stipend proportionably large: but, of late years, things
+are sadly changed. The Calvinists, in the sixteenth century, began
+the work of havoc and destruction; and the Revolutionists in the
+eighteenth, as usual, put the finish to these devastations. At
+present, from a very respectable source of information, I learn
+that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed 700<EM>l</EM>. per
+annum of our own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral
+without commending, in strong terms of admiration, the lofty flying
+buttresses of the exterior of the nave. The perpendicular portions
+are crowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the
+semi-arch takes its spring; and are in much more elegant taste than
+any other part of the building.</P>
+
+<P>Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL
+PALACE. Upon this palace the old writers dearly loved to expatiate.
+There is now however nothing but a good large comfortable family
+mansion; sufficient for the purposes of such hospitality and
+entertainment as the episcopal revenues will afford. I have not
+only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence. In other words,
+my friend Pierre-Aimé Lair having promised to take his last adieu
+of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met him
+agreeably to appointment at the palace; but his host, with a strong
+corps of visitors, having just sate down to dinner--it was only one
+o&#39;clock--I bade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop
+on the morrow--to whom he had indeed mentioned my name. Our
+farewell was undoubtedly warm and sincere. He had volunteered a
+thousand acts of kindness towards me without any possible motive of
+self interest; and as he lifted up his right hand, exclaiming
+&quot;adieu, pour toujours!&quot; I will not dissemble that I was
+sensibly affected by the touching manner in which it was uttered
+... and PIERRE AIMÉ LAIR shall always claim from me the warmest
+wishes for his prosperity and happiness.<A name="fnref_140"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_140">140</A> I hurried back through the
+court-yard--at the risk of losing a limb from the ferocious spring
+of a tremendous (chained) mastiff-- and without returning the
+salute of the porter, shut the gate violently, and departed. For
+five minutes, pacing the south side of the cathedral, I was lost in
+a variety of painful sensations. How was I to see the
+LIBRARY?--where could I obtain a glimpse of the TAPESTRY?--and now,
+that Pierre Aimé Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he
+should quit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my
+friend, and smooth my access to the more curious and coveted
+objects of antiquity?</P>
+
+<P>Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflections, a tall
+figure, clad in a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner
+approached and addressed me. &quot;Your name, Sir, is D----?&quot;
+&quot;At your service, Sir, that is my name.&quot; &quot;You were
+yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet&#39;s, purchasing
+books?&quot; &quot;I was, Sir.&quot; &quot;It seems you are very
+fond of old books, and especially of those in the French and Latin
+languages?&quot; &quot;I am fond of old books generally; but I now
+seek more particularly those in your language-- and have been
+delighted with an illuminated, and apparently coeval, MS. of the
+poetry of your famous OLIVIER BASSELIN, which...&quot; &quot;You
+saw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet&#39;s. It belonged to a common
+friend of us both. He thinks it worth...&quot; &quot;He asks
+<EM>ten louis d&#39;or</EM> for it, and he shall have them with all
+my heart.&quot; &quot;Sir, I know he will never part with it even
+for that large sum.&quot; I smiled, as he pronounced the word
+&quot;large.&quot; &quot;Do me the honour, Sir, of visiting my
+obscure dwelling, in the country--a short league from hence. My
+abode is humble: in the midst of an orchard, which my father
+planted: but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and
+should like to <EM>read</EM> double the number I
+<EM>possess</EM>.&quot; I thanked the stranger for his polite
+attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily....
+&quot;This evening, Sir, if you please.&quot; &quot;With all my
+heart, this very evening. But tell me, Sir, how can I obtain a
+sight of the CHAPTER LIBRARY, and of the famous TAPESTRY?&quot;
+&quot;Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) for I am watched in this
+place. You shall see both--but must not say that Monsieur ---- was
+your adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect
+you in the evening.&quot; We took leave; and I returned hastily to
+the inn, to tell my adventures to my companion.</P>
+
+<P>There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little
+anecdote, that I would not for the world add a syllable of
+explanation. Leaving you, therefore, in full possession of it, to
+turn and twist it as you please, consider me as usual, Yours.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XV.</H3>
+
+<P>VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER.
+VISIT TO THE BISHOP. THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX
+TAPESTRY. TRADE AND MANUFACTURE.</P>
+
+<P>Well, my good friend! the stranger has been visited: his library
+inspected: his services accepted: and his character partly
+unfolded. To this I must add, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I
+mentioned slightly in my last) that both the Chapter LIBRARY and
+the famous TAPESTRY have been explored and examined in a manner, I
+trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardly know what sort of
+order to adopt in this my second and last epistle from Bayeux;
+which will be semi-bibliomaniacal and semi-archaeological: and sit
+down, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal
+and my memory supply.</P>
+
+<P>The last was almost a purely <EM>ecclesiastical</EM> dispatch:
+as I generally first take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a
+cathedral. Now then for THE STRANGER! ... for it would be cruel to
+prolong the agony of expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied
+himself, almost exclusively, with his pencil during the whole
+morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to <EM>St. Loup</EM>.
+After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained in the
+interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them
+... their blossoms exhaling sweets of the most pungent fragrance.
+The road ran in a straight line from the west front of the
+cathedral, which, on turning round, as we saw it irradiated by
+partial glimpses of sunshine, between masses of dark clouds,
+assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. I should tell you,
+however, that the obliging Monsieur ---- came himself to the Hôtel
+de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode: for
+&quot;humble&quot; it is in every sense of the word. About
+two-thirds of the way thither, we passed the little church of
+<EM>St. Loup</EM>: a perfect Gothic toy of the XIIth century--with
+the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can be imagined.<A
+name="fnref_141"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_141">141</A> It has
+a few slight clustered columns at the four angles, but its height
+and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey. We did
+not enter; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine the
+exterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet
+<EM>laid</EM> with the heavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of
+BLORE make of this tiny, ancient, interesting edifice! At length we
+struck off, down a lane slippery with moisture--when, opening a
+large swinging gate--&quot;here (exclaimed our guide)--lived and
+died my father, and here his son hopes to live and die also.
+Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage.&quot; It was a retirement of the
+most secluded kind: absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-
+stacks, and corn-stacks--for Monsieur ---- hath a fancy for farming
+as well as for reading. The stair-case, though constructed of good
+hard Norman stone, was much worn in the middle from the frequent
+tread of half a century. It was also fatiguingly steep, but luckily
+it was short. We followed our guide to the left, where, passing
+through one boudoir-like apartment, strewn with books and papers,
+and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called <EM>pictures</EM>,
+we entered a second--of which portions of the wainscoat were taken
+away, to shew the books which were deposited behind. Row after row,
+and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was
+opened--and there again they were stowed, &quot;thick and
+threefold.&quot; A few small busts, and fractured vases, were meant
+to grace a table in the centre of the room. Of the books, it is but
+justice to say that <EM>rarity</EM> had been sacrificed to
+<EM>utility</EM>. There were some excellent, choice, critical
+works; a good deal of Latin; some Greek, and a sprinkle of
+Hebrew--for Monsieur ---- is both a general and a sound scholar. On
+pointing to <EM>Houbigant&#39;s Hebrew Bible</EM>, in four folio
+volumes, 1753, &quot;do you think this copy dear at fourteen
+francs?&quot; said he!--&quot;How, Sir,&quot; (replied I, in an
+exstacy of astonishment)--you mean to say fourteen
+<EM>louis</EM>?&quot; &quot;Not at all, Sir. I purchased it at the
+price just mentioned, nor do I think it too dear at that
+sum&quot;--resumed he, in the most unsuspecting manner. I then told
+him, as a sort of balsamic consolation, that a late friend (I
+alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on giving £12. for a copy by
+no means superior. &quot;Ah, le bon Dieu!....&quot; was his only
+observation thereupon.</P>
+
+<P>When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had
+entered, I observed with mingled surprise and pleasure, the four
+prettily executed English prints, after the drawings of the present
+Lady Spencer, called &quot;<EM>New Shoes&quot;--&quot;Nice
+Supper</EM>&quot; &amp;c. Monsieur ---- was pleased at my stopping
+to survey them. &quot;Ce sont là, Monsieur (observed he), les dames
+qui me font toujours compagnie:&quot;--nor can you conceive the
+very soft and gentlemanly manner, accompanied by a voice subdued
+even to sadness of tone, with which he made this, and almost every
+observation. I found, indeed, from the whole tenor of his
+discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state of
+cultivation: and on observing that a great portion of his library
+was THEOLOGICAL, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon
+which he thought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and
+stooping (for he is much taller than myself, ... which he easily
+may be, methinks I hear you add...) &quot;Sir, said he, I am by
+profession a clergyman ... although now I am designated as an
+<EM>ex-Curé</EM>. I have lived through the Revolution ... and may
+have partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope
+than of its atrocities. In the general hue-and-cry for reform, I
+thought that our church was capable of very great improvement, and
+I think so still. The part I took was influenced by conscientious
+motives, rather than by a blind and vehement love of reform;... but
+it has never been forgiven or forgotten. The established clergy of
+the place do not associate with me; but I care not a farthing for
+that--since I have here (pointing to his books) the very best
+society in the world. It was from the persuasion of the clergy
+having a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I was
+watched ... when walking near the precincts of the cathedral. I had
+been seeking you during the whole of the office of
+ordination.&quot; In reply to my question about his
+<EM>archaeological</EM> researches, he said he was then occupied in
+writing a disquisition upon the <EM>Bayeux Tapestry</EM>, in which
+he should prove that the Abbé de la Rue was wrong in considering it
+as a performance of the XIIth century. &quot;He is your great
+antiquarian oracle&quot;--observed I. &quot;He has an over-rated
+reputation&quot;--replied he--&quot;and besides, he is too
+hypothetical.&quot; Monsieur ---- promised to send me a copy of his
+dissertation, when printed; and then let our friend N---- be judge
+&quot;in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry.&quot; From the open
+windows of this hermitage, into which the branches absolutely
+thrust themselves, I essayed, but in vain, to survey the
+surrounding country; and concluded a visit of nearly two hours, in
+a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honest feelings. A
+melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark this
+amiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the
+account he had given of himself. &quot;Be assured (said he, at
+parting) that I will see you again, and that every facility shall
+be afforded you in the examination of the Bayeux Tapestry. I have
+an uncle who is an efficient member of the corporation.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>On my way homeward from this ramble, I called again upon M.
+Pluquet, an apothecary by profession, but a book lover and a book
+vender<A name="fnref_142"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_142">142</A> in his heart. The scene was rather singular.
+Below, was his <EM>Pharmacopeia</EM>; above were his bed-room and
+books; with a broken antique or two, in the court-yard, and in the
+passage leading to it. My first visit had been hasty, and only as a
+whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from a visitor, who
+was present, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of OLIVIER
+BASSELIN, of which I made mention to M.----. The same stranger was
+again present. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a
+different description above--books being called by the ancients,
+you know, the &quot;MEDICINE OF THE SOUL.&quot; We mounted into the
+bed-room. M. Pluquet now opened his bibliomaniacal battery upon us.
+&quot;Gentlemen you see, in this room, all the treasures in the
+world I possess: my wife--my child--my books--my antiquities.
+&quot;Yes, gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic,
+even to madness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter
+branch out; but my means are slender--and my aversion to my
+<EM>business</EM> is just about in proportion to my fondness for
+<EM>books</EM>. Examine, gentlemen, and try your
+fortunes.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement: but alas! the
+treasures of M. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make
+one&#39;s fortune. I contrived, with great difficulty, to pick out
+something of a <EM>recherché</EM> kind; and expended a napoleon
+upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly Greek, printed
+by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among the latter
+was the <EM>Bellum grammaticale</EM> of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet
+wondered at my rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the
+duodecimos; but had he shewn me a good <EM>Verard Romance</EM> or a
+<EM>Eustace Froissart</EM>, he would have found me as alert in
+running away with the one as the other. I think he is really the
+most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen: certainly as a
+Bibliopolist. We concluded a very animated conversation on all
+sides: and upon the whole, this was one of the most variously and
+satisfactorily spent days of my &quot;voyage
+bibliographique.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. ---- was with me
+betimes. He said he had brought a <EM>basket of books</EM>, from
+his hermitage, which he had left at a friend&#39;s house, and he
+entreated me to come and examine them. In the mean while, I had had
+not only a peep at the Tapestry, but an introduction to the mayor,
+who is chief magistrate for life: a very Cæsar in miniature. He
+received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather a priggish sort
+of a gentleman; observing that &quot;my countryman, Mr. STOTHARD,<A
+name="fnref_143"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_143">143</A> had
+been already there for six months, upon the same errand, and what
+could I want further?&quot; A short reply served to convince him
+&quot;that it would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he
+would allow another English artist to make a fac-simile of a
+different description, from a very small portion only.&quot;<A
+name="fnref_144"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_144">144</A></P>
+
+<P>I now called upon the Abbé Fétit, with a view to gain admission
+to the <EM>Chapter Library</EM>, but he was from home--dining with
+the Bishop. In consequence, I went to the palace, and wrote a note
+in pencil to the Bishop at the porter&#39;s lodge, mentioning the
+name of M. Lair, and the object of my visit. The porter observed
+that they had just sat down to dinner--but would I call at three?
+It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o&#39;clock
+came, and I was punctual to the minute. I was immediately admitted
+into the premises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I
+was not an unexpected visitor--for he neither growled, nor betrayed
+any symptoms of uneasiness. In my way to the audience chamber I saw
+the crosier and robes which the Bishop had worn the preceding day,
+at the ceremony of ordination, lying picturesquely upon the table.
+The audience chamber was rather elegant, adorned with Gobeleins
+tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerably expressive: and while my eyes
+were fastened upon two figures enacting the parts of an Arcadian
+shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in and announced the
+approach of MONSEIGNEUR l&#39;EVEQUE. I rose in a trice to meet
+him, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop
+entered with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven
+canons who had been dining with him, and who peeped at me over his
+shoulder in a very significant manner. The flush of good cheer was
+visible in their countenances--but for their Diocesan, I must say
+that he is even more interesting on a familiar view. He wore a
+close purple dress, buttoned down the middle from top to bottom. A
+cross hung upon his breast. His countenance had lost nothing of its
+expression by the absence of the mitre, and he was gracious even to
+loquacity. I am willing to hope that I was equally prudent and
+brief in the specification of the object I had in view. My request
+was as promptly as it was courteously granted. &quot;You will
+excuse my attending you in person; (said the Bishop) but I will
+instantly send for the Abbé Fétit, who is our librarian; and who
+will have nothing to do but to wait upon you, and facilitate your
+researches.&quot; He then dispatched a messenger for the Abbé
+Fétit, who quickly arrived with two more trotting after him--and
+enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, which were
+dangling from the Abbé&#39;s fingers, I quickened my steps towards
+the Chapter Library.</P>
+
+<P>We were no sooner fairly within the library, than I requested my
+chief conductor to give me a brief outline of its history.
+&quot;Willingly&quot; he replied. &quot;This library, the remains
+of a magnificent collection, of from 30, to 40,000 volumes, was
+originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by. Look through the
+window to your left, and you will observe the ruins of that
+building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original
+collection consisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even
+of living, clergymen--for, during the revolution, the clergy,
+residing both in town and country, conveyed their libraries to the
+Chapter-house, as a protection against private pillage. Well! in
+that same Chapter-house, the books, thus collected, were piled one
+upon another, in layers, flat upon the floor-- reaching absolutely,
+to the cieling ... and for ten long years not a creature ventured
+to introduce a key into the library door. The windows also were
+rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for
+musket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usual
+dexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence;
+and when M. Moysant received the orders of government to examine
+this library, and to take away as many books as he wanted for the
+public library at Caen ... he was absolutely horror-struck by the
+obstacles which presented themselves. From the close confinement of
+every door and window, for ten years, the rank and fetid odour
+which issued, was intolerable. For a full fortnight every door and
+window was left open for ventilation, ere M. Moysant could begin
+his work of selection. He selected about 5000 volumes only; but the
+infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly plundered and
+destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder ... &quot;et enfin
+(concluded he) vous voyez, Monsieur, ce qu&#39;ils nous out
+laissé.&quot; You will give me credit for having listened to every
+word of such a tale.</P>
+
+<P>The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently
+about twenty-five feet square. The Abbé made me observe the XIIIth.
+volume of the <EM>Gallia Christiana</EM>,<A name="fnref_145"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_145">145</A> in boards, remarking that
+&quot;it was of excessive rarity;&quot; but I doubt this. On
+shewing me the famous volume of <EM>Sanctius</EM> or <EM>Sanches de
+Matrimonio Sacramentario</EM>, 1607, folio, the Abbé
+observed--&quot;that the author wrote it, standing with his bare
+feet upon marble.&quot; I was well pleased with a pretty
+<EM>illuminated ms. Missal</EM>, in a large thick quarto volume,
+with borders and pictures in good condition; but did not fail to
+commend right heartily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of M. Fétit
+in having kept concealed the second volume of <EM>Gering&#39;s
+Latin Bible</EM>--being the first impression of the sacred text in
+France--when M. Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off
+what treasures he pleased. No one knows what has become of the
+first volume, but this second is cruelly imperfect--it is otherwise
+a fair copy. Upon the whole, although it is almost a matter of
+<EM>conscience</EM>, as well as of character, with me, to examine
+every thing in the shape of a library, and especially of a public
+one, yet it must be admitted that the collection under
+consideration is hardly worthy of a second visit: and accordingly I
+took both a first and a final view of it.</P>
+
+<P>From the Chapter I went to the COLLEGE LIBRARY. In other words,
+there is a fine public school, or Lycée, or college, where a great
+number of lads and young men are educated &quot;according to
+art.&quot; The building is extensive and well-situated: the
+play-ground is large and commodious; and there is a well-cultivated
+garden &quot;tempting with forbidden fruit.&quot; Into this garden
+I strolled in search of the President of the College, who was not
+within doors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and
+with several young men either playing, or about to play, at
+skittles. On communicating the object of my visit, he granted me an
+immediate passport to the library--&quot;mais, Monsieur, (added he)
+ce n&#39;est rien: il y avoit autrefois <EM>quelque chose</EM>:
+maintenant, ce n&#39;est qu&#39;un amas de livres très
+communs.&quot; I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the
+Library; who absolutely apologized all the way for the little
+entertainment I should receive. There was indeed little enough. The
+room may be about eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great
+portion was in vellum bindings, in wretched condition. Here was
+<EM>Jay&#39;s Polyglot</EM>, and the matrimonial <EM>Sanctius</EM>
+again! There was a very respectable sprinkling of <EM>Spanish and
+French Dictionaries</EM>; some few not wholly undesirable
+<EM>Alduses</EM>; and the rare Louvain edition of <EM>Sir Thomas
+More&#39;s Works</EM>, printed in 1566, folio.<A name=
+"fnref_146"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_146">146</A> I saw too,
+with horror-mingled regret, a frightfully imperfect copy of the
+<EM>Service of Bayeux Cathedral</EM>, printed in the Gothic letter,
+UPON VELLUM. But the great curiosity is a small brass or bronze
+crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon the mantlepiece;
+very ancient, from the character of the crown, which savours of the
+latter period of Roman art--and which is the only crown, bereft of
+thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour so
+represented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass.
+Upon the whole, as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old
+illumination, I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely
+three quarters of an hour in the library; but was fully sensible of
+the politeness of my attendant, and of the truth of his prediction,
+that I should receive little entertainment from an examination of
+the books.</P>
+
+<P>It is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to
+the famous BAYEUX TAPESTRY. Know then, in as few words as possible,
+that this celebrated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the
+INVASION OF ENGLAND by WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and the subsequent
+death of Harold at the battle of Hastings. It measures about 214
+English feet in length, by about nineteen inches in width; and is
+supposed to have been worked under the particular superintendance
+and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. It was
+formerly exclusively kept and exhibited in the Cathedral; but it is
+now justly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most
+precious relic among the archives of the city. There is indeed
+every reason to consider it as one of the most valuable historical
+monuments which France possesses. It has also given rise to a great
+deal of archaeological discussion. Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La
+Rue, have come forward successively--but more especially the first
+and last: and Montfaucon in particular has favoured the world with
+copper-plate representations of the whole. Montfaucon&#39;s plates
+are generally much too small: and the more enlarged ones are too
+ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have an idea
+how this piece of tapestry is preserved, or rolled up. You see it
+here, therefore, precisely as it appears after the person who shews
+it, takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:60%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/297.png" alt="BAYEUX TAPESTRY"></DIV>
+
+<P>The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy
+of Harold, from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy,
+is comparatively much defaced--that is to say, the stitches are
+worn away, and little more than the ground, or fine close linen
+cloth, remains. It is not far from the beginning--and where the
+colour is fresh, and the stitches are, comparatively,
+preserved--that you observe the PORTRAIT OF HAROLD.<A name=
+"fnref_147"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_147">147</A></P>
+
+<P>You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so
+called, are threads laid side by side--and bound down at intervals
+by cross stitches, or fastenings--upon rather a fine linen cloth;
+and that the parts intended to represent <EM>flesh</EM> are left
+untouched by the needle. I obtained a few straggling shreds of the
+<EM>worsted</EM> with which it is Worked. The colours are generally
+a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five
+feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more decayed and
+imperfect state than the first portion. But the designer of the
+subject, whoever he was, had an eye throughout to Roman art--as it
+appeared in its later stages. The folds of the draperies, and the
+proportions of the figures, are executed with this feeling.</P>
+
+<P>I must observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal
+subject, there is a running allegorical ornament;<A name=
+"fnref_148"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_148">148</A> of which I
+will not incur the presumption to suppose myself a successful
+interpreter. The constellations, and the symbols of agriculture and
+of rural occupation, form the chief subjects of this running
+ornament. All the inscriptions are executed in capital letters of
+about an inch in length; and upon the whole, whether this
+extraordinary and invaluable relic be of the latter end of the
+XIth, or of the beginning or middle of the XIIth century<A name=
+"fnref_149"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_149">149</A> seems to me
+a matter of rather a secondary consideration. That it is at once
+<EM>unique</EM> and important, must be considered as a position to
+be neither doubted nor denied, I have learnt, even here, of what
+importance this tapestry-roll was considered in the time of
+Bonaparte&#39;s threatened invasion of our country: and that, after
+displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awaken the
+curiosity and excite the love of conquest among the citizens, it
+was conveyed to one or two <EM>sea-port</EM> towns, and exhibited
+upon the stage as a most important <EM>materiel</EM> in dramatic
+effect.<A name="fnref_150"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_150">150</A></P>
+
+<P>I think you have now had a pretty good share of Bayeux
+intelligence; only that I ought not to close my despatches without
+a word or two relating to habits, manners, trade, and population.
+This will scarcely occupy a page. The men and women here are
+thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump countenances, wooden shoes,
+and the cauchoise--even to exceedingly <EM>tall copies</EM> of the
+latter! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. The chief
+articles of commerce are <EM>butter</EM> and <EM>lace</EM>. Of the
+former, there are two sorts: one, delicate and well flavoured, is
+made during winter and spring; put up into small pots, and carried
+from hence in huge paniers, not only to all the immediately
+adjacent parts of the country, but even to Paris--and is shipped in
+large quantities for the colonies. They have made as much as
+120,000 lb. weight each season; but <EM>Isigny</EM>, a neighbouring
+village, is rather the chief place for its production. The other
+sort of butter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in
+fact is made throughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very
+butter, in short, in which the huge <EM>alose</EM> was floating in
+the pot of the lively cuisiniere at Duclair<A name=
+"fnref_151"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_151">151</A>) is also
+chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicate tint, and a fine
+flavour, it is very much the contrary: and the mode of making and
+transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, and
+packed in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of
+exportation; and not less than 50,000 lb. weight is made each week.
+The whole profit arising from butter has been estimated at not less
+than two millions of francs: add to which, the circulation of
+specie kept up by the payment of the workmen, and the purchase of
+salt. As to <EM>lace</EM>, there are scarcely fewer than three
+thousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that
+article.</P>
+
+<P>The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and
+ingenious. In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an
+active carpenter, who had lost the fore finger of his right hand,
+hard at work--alternately whistling and singing--over a pretty
+piece of ornamental furniture in wood. It was the full face of a
+female, with closely curled hair over the forehead, surmounted by a
+wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace, and platted hair.
+The whole was carved in beech, and the form and expression of the
+countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merry fellow
+had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, compared
+with his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air,
+perfectly characteristic of the taste of his country. The title and
+song were thus:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">TOU JOURS.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">TOUJOURS, toujours, je te serai fidèle;<BR>
+ Disait Adolphe à chaque instant du jour;<BR>
+ Toujours, toujours je t&#39;aimerai, ma belle,<BR>
+ Je veux le dire aux échos d&#39;alentour;<BR>
+ Je graverai sur l&#39;écorce d&#39;un hètre,<BR>
+ Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours,<BR>
+ Vient me dieter, en me faisant connaître;<BR>
+ Que mon bonheur est de t&#39;aimer toujours. <EM>Bis</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Toujours, toujours, lui répondit Adèle,<BR>
+ Tu régneras dans le fond de mon coeur;<BR>
+ Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle,<BR>
+ Je promets bien t&#39;aimer avec ardeur;<BR>
+ Je pense à toi quand le soleil se lève,<BR>
+ J&#39;y pense encore à la tin de son cours;<BR>
+ Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je reve,<BR>
+ C&#39;est au bonheur de te chérir toujours.</P>
+
+<P>He was a carver on wainscoat wood: and if I would give myself
+&quot;la peine d&#39;entrer,&quot; he would shew me all sorts of
+curiosities. I secured a favourable reception, by purchasing the
+little ornament upon which he was at work--for a napoleon. I
+followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a soldier in
+Bonaparte&#39;s campaigns, from whence he dated the loss of his
+finger) through a variety of intricate passages below and up
+stairs; and saw, above, several excellently well finished pieces of
+furniture, for drawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood:--the
+outsides of which were carved sometimes with clustered roses,
+surrounding a pair of fond doves; or with representations of
+Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and the various <EM>emblemata</EM>
+of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the old
+pieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather&#39;s
+mansion, upon taking possession of your estate: and indeed are of
+themselves no despicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from
+eight to twelve napoleons for one of these pieces of massive and
+elaborately carved furniture, some six or seven feet in height.</P>
+
+<P>In all other respects, this is a town deserving of greater
+antiquarian research than appears to have been bestowed upon it;
+and I cannot help thinking that its ancient ecclesiastical history
+is more interesting than is generally imagined. In former days the
+discipline and influence of its See seem to have been felt and
+acknowledged throughout nearly the whole of Normandy. Adieu. In
+imagination, the spires of COUTANCES CATHEDRAL begin to peep in the
+horizon.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XVI.</H3>
+
+<P>BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES.
+ENVIRONS. AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR
+THE CLERGY.</P>
+
+<P>I send you this despatch close to the very Cathedral, whose
+spires, while yet at Bayeux, were already glimmering in the horizon
+of my imagination. The journey hither has been in every respect the
+most beautiful and interesting that I have experienced on
+<EM>this</EM> side the Seine. I have seen something like undulating
+pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams, and well-peopled
+villages; and an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, as well as the
+charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied me from one cathedral
+to the other.</P>
+
+<P>I left the <EM>Hôtel de Luxembourg</EM>, at Bayeux, in a hired
+cabriolet with a pair of horses, about five in the afternoon,
+pushing on, at a smart trot, for ST. LO: which latter place I
+entered by moon-light. The road, as usual, was broad and bold, and
+at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, and fir. As I just
+observed to you, I entered St. Lo by moon-light: the double towers
+of the great cathedral-like looking church having a grand and even
+romantic effect on approaching the town. An old castle, or rather a
+mere round-tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering
+it. Passing the porch, or west end of the church, sometimes
+descending, at others ascending--midst close streets and
+overhanging roofs of houses, which cast a deep and solemn shadow,
+so as to shut out the moon beams for several hundred yards--and
+pursuing a winding route, I at length stopped at the door of the
+principal hôtel--<EM>au Grand Coq!</EM> I laughed heartily when I
+heard its name; for with the strictest adherence to truth the
+adjective ought to have been <EM>petit!</EM></P>
+
+<P>However, the beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee,
+with which I was quickly served, proved to be excellent. I strolled
+out, on a <EM>reconnoissance</EM>, about half-past nine; but owing
+to the deep shadows from the moon, arising from the narrowness of
+the streets, I could make out nothing satisfactory of the locale.
+The church, however, promised a rich treat on the morrow. As soon
+as the morrow came, I betook myself to the church. It was Sunday
+morning. The square, before the west front of the church, was the
+rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks: but what was my
+astonishment on observing in one corner of it, a quack doctor
+vending powder for the effectual <EM>polishing of metals</EM>. He
+had just beaten his drum, in order to collect his audience; and
+having got a good assemblage, was full of the virtues of his
+wares--which were pronounced to be also &quot;equally efficacious
+for <EM>complaints in the stomach!</EM>&quot;</P>
+
+<P>This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied,
+by a rival charlatan, on horseback, with <EM>powders to kill
+rats</EM>. The latter stood upon the same eminence, wearing a hat,
+jacket, and trowsers, all white -- upon which were painted
+<EM>black rats</EM> of every size and description; and in his
+harangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats,
+painted upon his dress, were <EM>exact portraits</EM> of those
+which had been destroyed by means of his powders! This, too, on a
+Sunday morning. But remember Dieppe.<A name="fnref_152"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_152">152</A></P>
+
+<P>Having despatched my breakfast, I proceeded to survey the
+church, from which the town takes its name. First, for the
+exterior. The <EM>attached</EM> towers demand attention and
+admiration. They are so slightly attached as to be almost separated
+from the body or nave; forming something of that particular
+character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of
+Coutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St.
+Lo be not preferable, on the score of regularity and delicacy, to
+the similar portion at this latter place. The west front is indeed
+its chief beauty of exterior attraction; and it was once rendered
+doubly interesting by a profusion of alto-rilievo statues, which
+<EM>disappeared</EM> during the commotions of the revolution. You
+ascend rather a lofty flight of steps to this entrance; and into
+which the whole town seemed to be pouring the full tide of its
+population. I suffered myself to be carried away along, with the
+rest, and almost startled as I entered the nave.<A name=
+"fnref_153"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_153">153</A> To the
+left, is a horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in
+her arms. The countenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as
+the colouring is most despicable. I never saw such a daub: and what
+emotions, connected with tenderness of feeling, or ardour of
+devotion, can the contemplation of such an object excite? Surely
+the parish must have lost its wits, as well as its taste, to endure
+such a monstrous exhibition of art.</P>
+
+<P>As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the
+very singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the
+pillars and arches which sustain the roof. These pillars have
+<EM>no capitals</EM>, and the arch springs from them in the most
+abrupt manner. The arch itself is also very short and sharp
+pointed; like the tops of lancet windows. This mode obtains pretty
+generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right side
+aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also
+in the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way
+between the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church.
+Nor am I sure that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such
+massive perpendicular lines have either meaning or effect. Whether
+St. Lo were the <EM>first</EM> church upon which the architect, who
+built both <EM>that</EM> and the cathedral at <EM>Coutances</EM>,
+tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be the effort
+of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both
+outwardly and inwardly, these two churches have a strong
+resemblance to each other. Like many other similar buildings in
+France, the church of St. Lo is closely blocked up by surrounding
+houses.</P>
+
+<P>I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a
+large heavy machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to
+this place. There are some curious old houses near the inn, with
+exterior ornaments like those of the XVIth century, in our own
+country. But on quitting the town, in the road to Coutances,--after
+you come to what are called the old castle walls, on passing the
+outer gate--your eye is struck by rather an extraordinary
+combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built upon a
+rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;
+while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful
+and fruitful river <EM>Aure</EM>.<A name="fnref_154"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_154">154</A> The country immediately around
+abounds in verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon
+the whole, our sortie from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a
+meridian sun, was extremely cheerful and gratifying.</P>
+
+<P>A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of
+the uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and
+of rather respectable appearance, wanted springs: but the
+increasing beauty of the country, kept my attention perfectly
+occupied, till the beautiful cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my
+notice, on an elevated ground, to the left. The situation is truly
+striking, gaze from what quarter you will. From that of St. Lo, the
+immediate approach to the town is rendered very interesting from
+the broad <EM>route royale</EM>, lined with birch, hazel, and
+beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western
+towers of the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while
+the whole landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an
+unclouded sun, and animated by the increasing numbers and activity
+of the <EM>paysannes</EM> and <EM>bourgeoises</EM> mingling in
+their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark <EM>blues</EM> and
+<EM>crimsons</EM> were put on upon the occasion; and nought but
+peace, tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all
+sides. It was a scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian
+shepherds--worthy of being copied-by the pencil of Claude.</P>
+
+<P>We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing
+his whip, and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal
+street, upon an ascent, drove to the chief inn, the <EM>Hôtel
+d&#39;Angleterre</EM>, within about one hundred yards of the
+cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not readily forget
+the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from the
+north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.
+There could not have been fewer than two hundred young
+Ecclesiastics--thus returning from vespers to their respective
+homes; or rather to the College, or great clerical establishment,
+in the neighbourhood. This College, which has suffered from
+violence and neglect, through the revolution and Bonaparte&#39;s
+dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very distinguished
+and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such a crowd
+of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands
+with white edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting
+before their doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon
+was indeed unusually serene.</P>
+
+<P>I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was
+impossible to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation
+had departed; and a fine warm sun darted its rays in every
+surrounding direction. As I looked around, I could not fail to be
+struck with the singular arrangement of the columns round the
+choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choir and the
+walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For a
+wonder, an <EM>unpainted</EM> Virgin and child in Our Lady&#39;s
+chapel, behind the choir! There is nothing, I think, in the
+interior of this church that merits particular notice and
+commendation, except it be some beautifully- stained glass windows;
+with the arms, however, of certain noble families, and the regal
+arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deep well in the north
+transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire. The pulpit
+is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.
+The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is
+a period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the
+interior of this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis
+of the Abbé de la Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by
+Tancred King of Sicily at the end of the eleventh, or at the
+beginning of the twelfth century.</P>
+
+<P>The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.<A
+name="fnref_155"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_155">155</A>
+Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does
+not, as far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great
+object was to mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is
+octagonal, containing fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding
+from its summit a magnificent panorama. Another story, one half the
+height of the present erection from the roof of the nave, would put
+a glorious finish to the central tower of NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES.
+As I ascended this central tower, I digressed occasionally into the
+lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was somewhat
+terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten,
+green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which
+arose here, as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead
+(during the Revolution) to make <EM>bullets</EM>--and from the
+rain&#39;s penetrating the interior in consequence. As I continued
+to ascend, I looked through the apertures to notice the fine
+formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows of the
+western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and
+magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I
+reached the summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed
+around.</P>
+
+<P>The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four
+miles of the sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an
+immense expanse of ocean. On the opposite points was an extensive
+landscape, well-wooded, undulating, rich, and thickly studded with
+farm-houses. <EM>Jersey</EM> appeared to the north-west, quite
+encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south, stood out the bold
+insulated little rock of <EM>Granville</EM>, defying the eternal
+washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be
+seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice
+with which I am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which
+gave a wanner glow to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape.
+It is impossible to particularize. All was exquisitely refreshing
+and joyous. The heart beats with a fuller pulsation as the eye
+darts over such an expansive and exhilarating scene! Spring was now
+clad in her deepest-coloured vesture: and a prospect of a fine
+summer and an abundant harvest infused additional delight into the
+beholder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and respectable
+mansion or Palace of <EM>the Bishop</EM>; in the midst of a formal
+garden--begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges. As the Prelate
+bore a good character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof
+which contained an inhabitant capable of administering so much good
+to the community. In short, I shall always remember the view from
+the top of the central tower of the cathedral of Coutances!</P>
+
+<P>I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away,
+and the patience of the cuisinier at the Hôtel d&#39;Angleterre had
+already been put somewhat to the test. In twenty minutes I sat down
+to my dinner, in a bed- room, of which the furniture was chiefly of
+green silk. The females, even in the humblest walks, have generally
+fine names; and <EM>Victorina</EM> was that of the fille de chambre
+at the Hôtel d&#39;Angleterre. After dinner I walked upon what may
+be called the heights of Coutances; and a more delightful
+evening&#39;s walk I never enjoyed. The women of every
+description-- ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids--were all
+abroad; either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping
+groups, or straying in friendly pairs. The comeliness of the women
+was remarkable; a certain freshness of tint, and prevalence of the
+embonpoint, reminded me of those of our own country; and among the
+latter, I startled--as I gazed upon a countenance which afforded
+but too vivid a resemblance to that of a deceased relation!
+Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and interesting
+than they are at Coutances.</P>
+
+<P>The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and
+interesting: visit them in what direction you please. But there is
+nothing which so immediately strikes you as the remains of an
+<EM>ancient Aqueduct</EM>; gothicised at the hither end, but with
+three or four circular arches at the further extremity, where it
+springs from the opposite banks. Fine as was yesterday, this day
+has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of an opportunity
+of visiting the market, and of mingling with the country people.
+The boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplishing both these
+objects. Corn is a great article of trade; and they have noble
+granaries for depositing it. Apparently there is a great conflux of
+people, and much business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the
+midst of this ever-moving throng, my old friend the vender of
+rat-destroying powders--busied in the exercise of his calling, and
+covered with his usual vestment of white, spotted or painted with
+black rats. He found plenty of hearers and plenty of purchasers.
+All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man came
+forward to the edge of a bank--below which a great concourse was
+assembled. He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat, would
+sail to Jersey in the course of the afternoon; but the people
+seemed too intent upon their occupations and gambols to attend to
+him. I sat upon a bench and read one of the little chap
+books--<EM>Richard sans peur</EM>--which I had purchased the same
+morning.</P>
+
+<P>While absorbed in reflections upon the heterogeneous scene
+before me-- and wishing, for some of my dearest friends in England
+to be also spectators of it--the notes of an hand-organ more and
+more distinctly stole upon my ear. They were soft; and even
+pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that the musician
+preceded a person, who carried aloft a Virgin, with the infant
+Jesus, in wax; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude
+to approach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred
+a <EM>Roxburgher</EM> to remain quiet on the bench: and accordingly
+starting up, and extending two sous, I became the fortunate
+purchaser of a little <EM>chap</EM> article--of which my friend
+BERNARDO will for ever, I fear, envy me the possession! The vender
+of the tome sang through his nose, as the organ warbled the
+following</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><STRONG>Cantique Spirituelle</STRONG>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">EN L&#39;HONNEUR DU TRÈS-SAINT SACREMENT,</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Qui est exposé dans la grande Eglise
+cathédrale de St. Pierre et St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la
+miséricorde de Dieu</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Air: du Théodore Français.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">APPROCHEZ-VOUS, Chrétiens fidèles,<BR>
+ Afin d&#39;entendre réciter:<BR>
+ Ecoutez tous avec un grand zèle,<BR>
+ Avec ferveur et piété,<BR>
+ Le voeu que nous avons fait,<BR>
+ D&#39;aller au grand Saint Jacques;<BR>
+ Grace à Dieu nous l&#39;avons accompli,<BR>
+ Pour l&#39;amour de Jésus Christ.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Dieu créa le ciel et la terre,<BR>
+ Les astres et le firmament;<BR>
+ Il fit la brillante lumière,<BR>
+ Ainsi que tous les autres élémens,<BR>
+ Il a tiré tout du néant,<BR>
+ Ce qui respire sur la terre:<BR>
+ Rendons hommage à la grandeur<BR>
+ De notre divin Créateur.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><A name="fnref_156"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_156">156</A>Tous les jours la malice augmente, Il y a très-
+peu de religion; La jeunesse est trop petulante, Les enfans jurent
+le saint Nom. Et comment s&#39;étonneroit-on Si tant de fléaux nous
+tourmentent? Et si l&#39;on voit tant de malheurs, C&#39;est Dieu
+qui punit les pécheurs.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Souvent on assiste à l&#39;Office, C&#39;est
+comme une manière d&#39;acquit, Sans penser au saint Sacrifice; Ou
+s&#39;est immolé Jesus Christ. On parle avec ses amis, De ses
+affaires temporelles, Sans faire aucune attention Aux mystères de
+la religion.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Réfléchissez bien, pères et mères, Sur ces
+morales et vérités: C&#39;est la loi de Dieu notre Père; C&#39;est
+lui qui nous les a dictées: Il faut les suivre et les pratiquer,
+Tant que nous serons sur la terre. N&#39;oublions point
+qu&#39;après la mort, Nos ames existeront encore.</P>
+
+<P>The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet
+accomplished the favourite and indispensable object of visiting the
+PUBLIC LIBRARY. I made two unsuccessful attempts; but the third was
+fortunate. I had no letter of introduction, and every body was
+busied in receiving the visits of their country friends. I was much
+indebted to the polite attention of a stranger: who accompanied me
+to the house of the public librarian, his friend, who, not being at
+home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The room in
+which they are contained--wholly detached--and indeed at a
+considerable distance from the cathedral--is about sixty English
+feet long, low, and rather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with
+books, in the most shameful state of confusion. I saw, for the
+first time in Normandy, and with absolute gladness of heart, a copy
+of the <EM>Complutensian Polyglot Bible</EM>; of which the four
+latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good: the earlier
+ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, since
+treading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of
+<EM>Italian</EM> books. But the collection stands in dreadful need
+of weeding. Indeed, this observation may apply to the greater
+number of public collections throughout Normandy. I thanked my
+attendant for his patient and truly friendly attention, and took my
+leave.</P>
+
+<P>In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert&#39;s, the
+principal bookseller, and &quot;beat about the bush&quot; for
+bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not crowned with success.
+M.J. told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries, that a Monsieur
+A----, a stout burly man, whom he called &quot;un gros papa&quot;--
+was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the
+acquisition of the same black-letter treasures; and that he swept
+away every thing in the shape of an ancient and <EM>equivocal</EM>
+volume, in his annual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing
+from Manoury at Caen. M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable
+man; and is not only &quot;<EM>Seul Imprimeur de Monseigneur
+l&#39;Evêque&quot;</EM> (PIERRE DUPONT-POURSAT), but is in fact
+almost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought
+of him a copy of the <EM>Livre d&#39;Eglise ou Nouveau Paroissien à
+l&#39;usage du Diocèse de Coutances</EM>, or the common prayer book
+of the diocese. It is a very thick duodecimo, of 700 double
+columned pages, printed in a clear, new, and extremely legible
+character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It was bound in
+sheepskin, and I gave only <EM>thirty sous</EM> for it new. How it
+can be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M.
+Joubert told me that the compositor or workman received 20 francs
+for setting up 36 pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream.
+In our own country, such prices would be at least doubled.</P>
+
+<P>It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of
+YOUNG ECCLESIASTICS. In short, the establishment now erecting for
+them, will contain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer
+than four hundred. It is also impossible not to be struck with the
+extreme simplicity of their manners and deportment. They converse
+with apparent familiarity with the very humblest of their flock:
+and seem, from the highest to the lowest, to be cordially received.
+They are indifferent as to personal appearance. One young man
+carries a bundle of linen to his laundress, along the streets:
+another carries a round hat in his hand, having a cocked one upon
+his head: a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a
+chair, or small table, in that of a fourth. As these Clergymen
+pass, they are repeatedly saluted. Till the principal building be
+finished, many of them are scattered about the town, living quite
+in the upper stories. In short, it is the <EM>profession</EM>,
+rather than the particular candidate, which seems to claim the
+respectful attention of the townsmen.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XVII.</H3>
+
+<P>JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND
+CASTLE OF VIRE.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Vire</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of
+nature and of art, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare,
+therefore, for miscellaneous intelligence; but such as, I will make
+bold to predict, cannot fail to afford you considerable
+gratification. Normandy is doubtless a glorious country. It is
+fruitful in its soil, picturesque in the disposition of its land
+and water, and rich in the architectural relics of &quot;the olden
+time.&quot; It is also more than ordinarily interesting to an
+Englishman. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this
+despatch--within two hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the
+<EM>Cheval Blanc</EM>, which just now encloses me within its
+granite walls--here, I say, lived and revelled the illustrious
+family of the DE VERES.<A name="fnref_157"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_157">157</A> Hence William the Conqueror took the famous
+AUBREY DE VERE to be a spectator of his prowess, and a sharer of
+his spoils, in his decisive subjugation of our own country. It is
+from this place that the De Veres derive their name. Their
+once-proud castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which
+turns a hundred mills in its course: but the warder&#39;s horn has
+long ceased to be heard, and the ramparts are levelled with the
+solid rock with which they were once, as it were, identified.</P>
+
+<P>I left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance; so
+completely <EM>anglicised</EM> seemed to be the scenery and
+inhabitants. The evening was beautiful in the extreme: and upon
+gaining the height of one of the opposite hills, within about half
+a league of the town, on the high Granville route, I
+alighted--walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, upon the lovely
+landscape around--the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming of one
+entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was
+hardly possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind; and it
+served as a just counterpart to the more expansive scene which I
+had contemplated, but the preceding evening, from the heights of
+that same cathedral. The conducteur of the Diligence rousing me
+from my rapturous abstraction, I remounted, and descended into a
+valley; and ere the succeeding height was gained, a fainter light
+floated over the distant landscape ... and every object reminded me
+of the accuracy of those exquisite lines of Collins-- descriptive
+of the approach of evening&#39;s</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">... gradual, dusky veil.</P>
+
+<P>For the first time, I had to do with a drunken conducteur.
+Luckily the road was broad, and in the finest possible condition,
+and perfectly well known to the horses. Every turning was
+successfully made; and the fear of upsetting began to give way to
+the annoyance experienced from the roaring and shouting of the
+conducteur. It was almost dark when I reached GRANVILLE--about
+twelve miles from Coutances; when I learnt that the horses had run
+six miles before they started with us. On entering the town, the
+road was absolutely solid rock: and considering what a
+<EM>house</EM> we carried behind us (for so the body of the
+<EM>diligence</EM> seemed) and the uncertain footing of the horses,
+in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, I apprehended the
+most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light; when, approaching
+one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither our conducteur
+(in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the Hôtel
+d&#39;Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, the
+passengers alighted with thankful hearts, and bespoke supper and
+beds.</P>
+
+<P>Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which
+renders an approach from thence almost impracticable. On every
+other side it is defended by the ocean, into which the town seems
+to have dropt perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water,
+Granville cannot be approached, even by transports, nearer than
+within two-thirds of a league; and of course at low water it is
+surrounded by an extent of sharply pointed rock and chalk:
+impenetrable--terrific--and presenting both certain failure and
+destruction to the assailants. It is a GIBRALTAR IN MINIATURE. The
+English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only a
+political diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the
+civil wars, and more particularly in those of the League,
+Granville, however, had its share of misery. It is now a quiet,
+dull, dreary, place; to be visited only for the sake of the view
+from thence, looking towards <EM>St. Malo</EM>, and <EM>Mont St.
+Michel</EM>; the latter of which I give up--as an hopeless object
+of attainment. Granville is in fact built upon rock;<A name=
+"fnref_158"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_158">158</A> and the
+houses and the only two churches are entirely constructed of
+granite. The principal church (I think it was the principal) is
+rather pretty within, as to its construction; but the decidedly
+gloomy effect given to it by the tint of the <EM>granite</EM>--the
+pillars being composed of that substance-- renders it disagreeable
+to the eye. I saw several confessionals; and in one of them, the
+office of confession was being performed by a priest, who attended
+to two penitents at the same time; but whose physiognomy was so
+repulsively frightful, that I could not help concluding he was
+listening to a tale which he was by no means prepared to
+receive.</P>
+
+<P>An hour&#39;s examination of the town thoroughly satisfied me.
+There was no public conveyance to <EM>Vire</EM>, whither I intended
+immediately departing, and so I hired a voiture to be drawn by one
+sturdy Norman horse. To a question about springs, the conducteur
+replied that I should find every thing &quot;très propre.&quot;
+Having paid the reckoning, I set my face towards VIRE. The day, for
+the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond
+measure: and the wind (to the east) was directly in my face.
+Nevertheless the road was one of the finest that I had seen in
+France, for breadth and general soundness of condition. It had all
+the characteristics, in breadth and straitness, of a Roman route;
+and as it was greatly undulating, I had frequently some gratifying
+glimpses of its bold direction. The surrounding country was of a
+quietly picturesque but fruitful aspect; and had my seat been
+comfortable, or after the fashion of those in my own country, my
+sensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of
+<EM>springs</EM>, or any thing approximating to &quot;très
+propre,&quot; I had to encounter a <EM>hard plank</EM>, suspended
+at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides; and as the
+road was but too well bottomed, and the conveyance was open in
+front to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I
+shall never forget) the misery of this conveyance.</P>
+
+<P>Fortunately the first stage was <EM>Ville Dieu</EM>. Here I
+ordered a voiture and post horses: but the master of the Poste
+Royale, or rather of the inn, shook his head--&quot;Pour les
+chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pour la voiture il
+n&#39;y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir.&quot; I followed,
+with miserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an old
+tumble-down- looking phaeton--&quot;la voilà, c&#39;est la seule
+que je possède en ce moment&quot;-- exclaimed the landlord. It had
+never stirred from its position since the fall of last years&#39;
+leaf. It had been--within and without--the roosting place for fowls
+and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard; and although
+literally covered with the <EM>evidences</EM> of such long and
+undisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain,
+and as I discovered the wished for &quot;<EM>ressorts</EM>&quot;
+(or <EM>springs</EM>) I compromised for the repulsiveness of the
+exterior, and declared my intention of taking it onward. Water,
+brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in requisition; and
+two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly away with
+this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely darted
+forward at a round rattling gallop for <EM>St. Sever</EM>.
+Blessings ever wait upon the memory of that artisan who invented
+... <EM>springs</EM>!</P>
+
+<P>The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he
+galloped, or trotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our
+wishes--directed. The approach to our halting place was rather
+imposing. What seemed to be a monastery, or church, at St. Sever,
+had quite the appearance of Moorish architecture; and indeed as I
+had occasional glimpses of it through the trees, the effect was
+exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in truth very
+delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, I made
+our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather of
+dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I
+entered the chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the
+left--a very clean, large paper, and uncut copy of the folio
+<EM>Rouen Missal</EM> of 1759. Every thing about this deserted and
+decaying spot had a melancholy appearance: but the surrounding
+country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former days of
+prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--there
+had been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect
+contrast to such a state.</P>
+
+<P>On returning to the &quot;<EM>Poste Royale</EM>&quot; I found
+two fresh lusty horses to our voiture--but the postilion had sent a
+boy into the field to catch a <EM>third</EM>. Wherefore was this?
+The tarif exacted it. A third horse &quot;réciproquement pour
+l&#39;année&quot;--parce qu&#39;il faut traverser une grande
+montagne avant d&#39;arriver à Vire&quot;--was the explanatory
+reply. It seemed perfectly ridiculous, as the vehicle was of such
+slender dimensions and weight. However, I was forced to yield. To
+scold the postboy was equally absurd and unavailing: &quot;parce
+que la tarif l&#39;exigea.&quot; But the &quot;montagne&quot; was
+doubtless a reason for this additional horse: and I began to
+imagine that something magnificently picturesque might be in store.
+The three horses were put a-breast, and off we started with a
+phaeton-like velocity! Certainly nothing could have a more
+ridiculous appearance than my pigmy voiture thus conveyed by three
+animals--strong enough to have drawn the diligence. I was not long
+in reaching this &quot;huge mountain,&quot; which provoked my
+unqualified laughter--from its insignificant size--and upon the top
+of which stands the town of VIRE. It had been a <EM>fair</EM>-day;
+and groups of men and women, returning from the town, in their blue
+and crimson dresses, cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day,
+and lighted up the features of the landscape. The nearer I
+approached, the more numerous and incessant were these groups.</P>
+
+<P>Vire is a sort of <EM>Rouen</EM> in miniature--if bustle and
+population be only considered. In architectural comparison, it is
+miserably feeble and inferior. The houses are generally built of
+granite, and look extremely sombre in consequence. The old castle
+is yet interesting and commanding. But of this presently. I drove
+to the &quot;<EM>Cheval Blanc</EM>,&quot; and bespoke, as usual, a
+late dinner and beds. The first visit was to the <EM>castle,</EM>
+but it is right that you should know, before hand, that the town of
+Vire, which contains a population of about ten thousand souls,
+stands upon a commanding eminence, in the midst of a very beautiful
+and picturesque country called the BOCAGE. This country was, in
+former times, as fruitful in civil wars, horrors, and devastations,
+as the more celebrated Bocage of the more western part of France
+during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage of Normandy was
+the scene of bloodshed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot
+persecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts
+through which I have travelled--from Caen hitherwards--that the
+hills and the dales rang with the feats of arms displayed in the
+alternate discomfiture and success of COLIGNY, CONDÉ, MONTMOGERY,
+and MATIGNON.<A name="fnref_159"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_159">159</A></P>
+
+<P>But for the Castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open
+space, terminated by a portion of the boulevards; having, in the
+foreground, the public library to the left, and a sort of municipal
+hall to the right: neither of them objects of much architectural
+consequence. Still nearer in the foreground, is a fountain; whither
+men, women, and children--but chiefly the second class, in the
+character of <EM>blanchisseuses</EM>-- regularly resort for water;
+as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a lucky moment that
+Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his ready pencil
+transmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and
+faithful not to be followed up by a finished design. I send you a
+portion of this prettily grouped picture; premising, that the woman
+to the right, in the foreground, begged leave purposely to sit--or
+rather stand--for her portrait. The artist, in a short time, was
+completely surrounded by spectators of his graphic skill.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/332.png" alt="Picture by Mr. Lewis"></DIV>
+
+<P>The &quot;<EM>Cheval Blanc</EM>&quot;--the name of the hotel at
+which I reside-- should be rather called the &quot;<EM>Cheval
+Noir</EM>;&quot; for a more dark, dingy, and even dirty residence,
+for a traveller of any <EM>nasal</EM> or <EM>ocular</EM>
+sensibility, can be rarely visited. My bed room is hung with
+tapestry; which, for aught I know to the contrary, may represent
+the daring exploits of MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON: but which is so
+begrimed with filth that there is no decyphering the subjects
+worked upon it.</P>
+
+<P>On leaving the inn--and making your way to the top of the
+street--you turn to the left; but on looking down, again to the
+left, you observe, below you, the great high road leading to
+<EM>Caen</EM>, which has a noble appearance. Indeed, the manner in
+which this part of Normandy is intersected with the
+&quot;<EM>routes royales</EM>&quot; cannot fail to strike a
+stranger; especially as these roads run over hill and dale, amidst
+meadows, and orchards, equally abundant in their respective
+harvests. The immediate vicinity of the town is as remarkable for
+its picturesque objects of scenery as for its high state of
+cultivation; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever part
+visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment
+to be experienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the
+scenery, from these heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire,
+about Matlock. There is plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern;
+while another <EM>Derwent</EM>, less turbid and muddy, meanders
+below. Thus much for a general, but hasty sketch of the town of
+Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the <EM>interior</EM>
+of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto
+only contemplated the <EM>roofs</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>And yet I must not close my despatch without performing my
+promise about the CASTLE; of which indeed (as you will see by the
+subjoined miniature view) only a sort of ruinous shell remains. Its
+age may be a little towards the end of the thirteenth century. The
+stone is of a deep reddish tint: and although what remains is only
+a portion of the <EM>keep</EM>, yet I can never suppose it, even in
+its state of original integrity, to have been of very capacious
+dimensions. Its site is most commanding.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/334.png" alt="ABBÉ DE LA RUE"></DIV>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XVIII.</H3>
+
+<P>BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LARENAUDIERE. OLIVIER
+BASSELIN. M. SÉGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.</P>
+
+<P>It is a sad rainy day; and having no temptation to stir abroad,
+I have shut myself up by the side of a huge wood fire--(surrounded
+by the dingy tapestry, of which my last letter did not make very
+honourable mention) in a thoroughly communicative mood--to make you
+acquainted with all that has passed since my previous despatch.
+Books and the Bibliomania be the chief &quot;burden of my present
+song!&quot; You may remember, in my account of the public library
+at Caen, that some mention was made of a certain OLIVIER BASSELIN--
+whom I designated as the DRUNKEN BARNABY <EM>of Normandy</EM>.
+Well, my friend--I have been at length made happy, and comforted in
+the extreme, by the possession of a copy of the <EM>Vaudevires</EM>
+of that said Olivier Basselin--and from the hands, too, of one of
+his principal editors ... Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Avocat,
+et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit. This copy I intend (as indeed I
+told the donor) for the beloved library at Althorp. But let me tell
+my tale my own way.</P>
+
+<P>Hard by the hotel of the <EM>Cheval Blanc</EM>, (the best, bad
+as it is-- and indeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of
+the name of ADAM. He is the principal, and the most respectable of
+his brethren in the same craft. After discoursing upon sundry
+desultory topics--and particularly examining the <EM>books of
+Education</EM>, among which I was both surprised and pleased to
+find the <EM>Distichs of Muretus</EM><A name="fnref_160"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_160">160</A>--I expressed my regret at
+having travelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting
+with one single copy of the <EM>Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin</EM>
+for sale. &quot;It is not very surprising, Sir, since it is a
+privately printed book, and was never intended for sale. The
+impression too is very limited. You know, Sir, that the book was
+published here--and--&quot; &quot;Then I begin to be confident
+about obtaining it&quot;--replied I. &quot;Gently, Sir;--&quot;
+resumed Monsieur Adam--&quot;it is not to be bought, even here. But
+do you know no one...?&quot; &quot;Not a creature.&quot;
+&quot;Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Englishman. One of its
+principal editors--a very gallant <EM>Bibliomaniac</EM>--who is a
+great collector and lover of the literature of your country--(here
+I picked up courage and gaiety of heart) lives in this town. He is
+President of the Tribunal. Go to him.&quot; Seeing me hesitate, in
+consequence of not having a letter of introduction--&quot;Ce
+n&#39;est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. Il aime vos
+compatriotes; et soyez persuadé de l&#39;accueil le plus
+favorable.&quot; Methought Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than
+I had yet heard a Norman speak.<A name="fnref_161"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_161">161</A></P>
+
+<P>In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to return with an
+account of my reception) and five minutes brought me into the
+presence of Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Président du Tribunal,
+&amp;c. It is not possible for me to convey to you a notion of the
+warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of heart, that marked the
+reception which this gentleman instantly gave me: and I will
+frankly own that I was as much &quot;abashed&quot; as ever our
+ancient friend Caxton had been--in the presence of his patroness
+the Duchess of Burgundy. I followed my new bibliomaniacal
+acquaintance rapidly up stairs; and witnessed, with extreme
+pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of them English) lying upon
+the window seats of the first landing-place; much after the fashion
+followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence, not
+quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster
+Abbey.</P>
+
+<P>On gaining the first floor, mine host turned the keys of the
+doors of two contiguous rooms, and exclaimed, &quot;VOILA MA
+BIBLIOTHEQUE!&quot; The air of conscious triumph with which these
+words were uttered, delighted me infinitely; but my delight was
+much increased on a leisurely survey of one of the prettiest, most
+useful, and commendable collections of books, chiefly in the
+department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had ever witnessed.
+Monsieur de Larenaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, of
+which <EM>eight hundred are English</EM>. But the owner is
+especially fond of poetical archaeology; in other words, of
+collecting every work which displays the progress of French and
+English poetry in the middle and immediately following ages; and
+talks of <EM>Trouveurs</EM> and <EM>Troubadours</EM> with an
+enthusiasm approaching to extacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to
+our Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey; tells you how dearly he
+loves them; but yet leads you to conclude that he <EM>rather</EM>
+prefers <EM>Le Grand, Ginguené, Sismondi</EM>, and
+<EM>Raynouard</EM>. Of the venerable living oracle in these
+matters, the Abbé de la Rue, he said he considered him as &quot;un
+peu trop systématique.&quot; In short, M. de Larenaudiere has
+almost a complete critical collection, in our tongue, upon the
+subject of old poetry; and was most anxious and inquisitive about
+the present state of cultivation of that branch of literature in
+England: adding, that he himself meditated a work upon the French
+poetry of the XIIth and XIIIth centuries. He said he thought his
+library might be worth about 25,000 francs: nor did I consider such
+a valuation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and
+incessantly; but he talks well: and spoke of the renown of a
+certain library in <EM>St. James&#39;s Place</EM>, in a manner
+which could not fail to quicken the pulse and warm the blood of its
+Librarian. I concluded an interview of nearly two hours, by his
+compliance with my wish to dine with me on the following day:
+although he was quite urgent in bargaining for the previous measure
+of my tasting his <EM>pôtage</EM> and <EM>vol au vent</EM>. But the
+shortness and constant occupation of my time would not allow me to
+accede to it. M. de Larenaudiere then went to a cabinet-like
+cupboard, drew forth an uncut copy, stitched in blue spotted paper,
+of his beloved <EM>Vaudevires</EM> of OLIVIER BASSELIN:<A name=
+"fnref_162"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_162">162</A> and
+presenting it to me, added &quot;Conservez le, pour l&#39;amour de
+moi.&quot; You may be assured that I received such a present in the
+most gracious manner I was capable of--but instantly and honestly
+added--&quot;permettez qu&#39;il soit déposé dans la bibliothèque
+de Milord S...? &quot;C&#39;est la même chose&quot;--rejoined he;
+and giving me the address of the public librarian, we separated in
+the most cordial manner till the morrow.</P>
+
+<P>I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and
+held aloft my blue-covered copy of the <EM>Vaudevires</EM> as an
+unquestionable proof of the successful result of my visit to
+Monsieur La Renaudiere. Leaving the precious cargo with him, and
+telling him that I purposed immediately visiting the public
+library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness about books--and
+asked me if I had ever <EM>published</EM> any thing
+<EM>bibliographical</EM>? &quot;Car enfin, Monsieur, la pluspart
+des <EM>Virois</EM> ne savent rien de la litérature
+angloise&quot;--concluded he ... But I had just witnessed a
+splendid exception to this sweeping clause of censure. I then
+sought the residence of the Abbé Du MORTUEUX, the public librarian.
+That gentleman was from home, at a dinner party. I obtained
+information of the place where he might be found; and considering
+<EM>two</EM> o&#39;clock to be rather too early an hour (even in
+France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so important
+a function, I strolled in the neighbourhood of the street, where he
+was regaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of
+that time, I ventured to knock at the door of a very respectable
+mansion, and to enquire for the bibliographical Abbé. &quot;He is
+here, Sir, and has just done dinner. May I give him your
+name?&quot; &quot;I am a stranger: an Englishman; who, on the
+recommendation of Monsieur Larenaudiere, wishes to see the public
+library. But I will call again in about an hour.&quot; &quot;By no
+means: by no means: the Abbé will see you immediately.&quot; And
+forthwith appeared a very comely, tall, and respectable- looking
+gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both as to form and
+powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a
+figure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning;
+and he told me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the
+place which I wished to visit. Without even returning to his
+friends, he took his hat--and in one minute, to my surprise, I
+found myself in the street with the Abbé de Mortueux, in the high
+way to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. In our way thither our discourse was
+constant and unrestrained. &quot;You appear here; Monsieur
+l&#39;Abbé, to be partial to literature;... but allow me first to
+congratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town.&quot;
+&quot;For literature in general, we are pretty well disposed. In
+regard to the beauties of the immediate neighbourhood of Vire, we
+should be unworthy inhabitants indeed, if we were not sensible of
+them.&quot; In five minutes we reached the Library.</P>
+
+<P>The shutters of the room were fastened, but the worthy Abbé
+opened them in a trice; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy,
+what appeared to be a genuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged
+library. The room could be scarcely more than twenty-two feet
+square. I went instantly to work, with eyes and hands, in the
+ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding something in
+the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French
+Chronicle, or Romance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes
+in vain! The history of the library is this:--The founder was a
+Monsieur PICHON; who, on being taken prisoner by the English, at
+the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided a long time in England
+under the name of TYRREL, and lived in circumstances of
+respectability and even of opulence. There--whether on the
+dispersion of the libraries of our Meads, Foulkes&#39;, and
+Rawlinsons, I know not--he made his collection; took his books over
+with him to Jersey, where he died in 1780: and bequeathed them,
+about 3000 in number, to his native town of Vire. M. du Mortueux,
+who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a little memorial about
+Pichon. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilst he
+lived among us) adorns the library; with which I hope it will go
+down to a distant and grateful posterity. The colouring of this
+portrait is faded: but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an
+expressive and sensible physiognomy.</P>
+
+<P>Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was untouched
+during the Revolution; while the neighbouring library of the
+<EM>Cordeliers</EM> was ransacked without mercy. But I regret to
+say that the books in the cupboards are getting sadly damp. Do not
+expect any thing very marvellous in the details of this collection;
+The old-fashioned library doors, of wood, are quite in character
+with what they protect. Among the earlier printed books, I saw a
+very bad copy of <EM>Sweynheym and Pannartz&#39;s</EM> edition of
+the <EM>De Civitate Dei</EM> of St. Austin, of the date of 1470;
+and a large folio of <EM>Gering&#39;s</EM> impression of the
+<EM>Sermons of Leonard de Utino</EM> printed about the year 1478.
+This latter was rather a fine book. A little black-letter Latin
+Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, somewhat tempted me; but I
+could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and half jocose,
+whether a napoleon would not secure me the possession of a piquant
+little volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend
+Guido Mercator?<A name="fnref_163"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_163">163</A> The Abbé smiled: observing--&quot;mon ami, on
+fait voir les livres ici; on les lit même: mais on ne les vend
+pas.&quot; I felt the force of this pointed reply: and was resolved
+never again to ask an Ecclesiastic to part with a black-letter
+volume, even though it should be printed by &quot;my old friend
+Guido Mercator.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I
+enquired of my amiable guide about the &quot;LIBRARY OF THE
+CORDELIERS,&quot; of which he had just made mention. He told me
+that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil law, and had been
+literally almost destroyed: that he had contrived however to secure
+a great number of &quot;rubbishing theological books,&quot; (so he
+called them!) which he sold for <EM>three sous</EM> a piece--and
+with the produce of which he bought many excellent works for the
+library. I should like to have had the sifting of this
+&quot;theological rubbish!&quot; It remained only to thank the Abbé
+most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions and
+searches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from his
+surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a &quot;soyez
+tranquille,&quot; that the matter was not worth either a thought or
+a syllable; and ere we quitted the library, he bade me observe the
+written entries of the numbers of students who came daily thither
+to read. There were generally (he told me) from fifteen to twenty
+&quot;hard at it&quot;--and I saw the names of not fewer than
+<EM>ninety-two</EM> who aspired to the honour and privilege of
+having access to the BIBLIOTHECA PICHONIANA.</P>
+
+<P>For the third time, in the same day, I visited Monsieur Adam; to
+carry away, like a bibliomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured.
+I saw there a grave, stout gentleman--who saluted me on my
+entrance, and who was introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the name
+of SÉGUIN. He had been waiting (he said) full three quarters of an
+hour to see me, and concluded by observing, that, although a man in
+business, he had aspired to the honour of authorship. He had
+written, in fact, two rather interesting--but wretchedly, and
+incorrectly printed--duodecimo volumes, relating to the BOCAGE,<A
+name="fnref_164"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_164">164</A> in the
+immediate vicinity of Vire; and was himself the sole vender and
+distributer of his publications. On my expressing a wish to possess
+these books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait his
+return with a copy or two of them. While he was gone, M. Adam took
+the opportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable
+tradesman; but that, having said some severe things of the
+manufactures of Vire in his <EM>first</EM> publication,<A name=
+"fnref_165"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_165">165</A> relating to
+the <EM>civil</EM> history of the Bocains, his townsmen sharply
+resented what they considered as reflections thrown out against
+them; and M. Séguin was told that perhaps his personal safety was
+endangered ... He wanted not a second hint--but fled from home with
+precipitancy: and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy,
+and burnt it before the door of his house. This, however, did not
+<EM>cool</EM> the ardour of authorship in M. Séguin. He set about
+publishing his <EM>military</EM> history of the Bocains; and in the
+introductory part took occasion to retort upon the violence of his
+persecutors. To return to M. Séguin. In about ten minutes he
+appeared, with two copies in his hand-- which I purchased, I
+thought dearly, at five francs each volume; or a napoleon for the
+four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell
+you that I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that I
+was well satisfied with Vire.</P>
+
+<P>Yesterday M. de Larenaudiere made good his engagement, and dined
+with me at five, in the salle à manger. This is a large inn; and if
+good fare depended upon the number and even elegance of female
+cooks, the traveller ought to expect the very best at the
+<EM>Cheval Blanc</EM>. The afternoon was so inviting--and my guest
+having volunteered his services to conduct me to the most beautiful
+points of view in the immediate neighbourhood--that we each seemed
+to vie with the other in quickly dispatching what was placed before
+us; and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting
+down, we were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that
+afternoon&#39;s ramble. The sun seemed to become more of a golden
+hue, and the atmosphere to increase in clearness and serenity. A
+thousand little songsters were warbling in the full-leaved branches
+of the trees; while the mingled notes of the
+<EM>blanchisseuses</EM> and the milk-maids, near the banks of the
+rippling stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous
+harmony--as we gazed down from the overhanging heights. The meadows
+were spotted with sheep, and the orchards teemed with the coming
+fruit. You may form some notion of the value of this rich and
+picturesque scenery, when I tell you that M. de Larenaudiere
+possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which lets per
+acre at the rate of <EM>6l.</EM> <EM>6s.</EM> English. My guide was
+all gaiety of heart, and activity of step. I followed him through
+winding paths and devious tracks, amidst coppice-wood and fern--not
+however till I had viewed, from one particular spot upon the
+heights, a most commanding and interesting panorama of the town of
+Vire.</P>
+
+<P>In our perambulation, we discoursed of English poetry; and I
+found that THOMSON was as great a favourite with my guide as with
+the rest of his countrymen. Indeed he frankly told me that he had
+translated him into French verse, and intended to publish his
+translation. I urged him to quote specimens; which he did with a
+readiness and force, and felicity of version, that quite delighted
+me. He thoroughly understands the original; and in the description
+of a cataract, or mountain torrent, from the Summer, he appeared to
+me almost to surpass it. My guide then proceeded to quote Young and
+Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two great Whig and Tory
+Reviews. He said he preferred the politics and vivacity of the
+<EM>Edinburgh</EM>, but thought the <EM>Quarterly</EM> more
+instructive and more carefully written. &quot;Enfin (he concluded)
+j&#39;aime infiniment votre gouvernement, et vos écrivains; mais
+j&#39;aime moins le peuple Anglois.&quot; I replied that he had at
+least very recently shewn an exception to this opinion, in his
+treatment of <EM>one</EM> among this <EM>very</EM> people.
+&quot;C&#39;est une autre chose&quot;--replied he briskly, and
+laughingly--&quot;vous allez voir deux de vos compatriotes, qui
+sont mes intimes, et vous en serez bien content!&quot; So saying,
+we continued our route through a delightful avenue of beech-trees,
+upon the most elevated part within the vicinity of the town; and my
+companion bade me view from thence the surrounding country. It was
+rich and beautiful in the extreme; and with perfect truth, I must
+say, resembled much more strongly the generality of our own scenery
+than what I had hitherto witnessed in Normandy. But the sun was
+beginning to cast his shadows broader and broader, and where was
+the residence of Monsieur and Madame S----?</P>
+
+<P>It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a quarter of an
+hour-- but the inmates were unluckily from home. The house is low
+and long, but respectable in appearance both within and without.
+The approach to it is through a pretty copse, terminated by a
+garden; and the surrounding grounds are rather tastefully laid out.
+A portion of it indeed had been trained into something in the shape
+of a labyrinth; in the centre of which was a rocky seat, embedded
+as it were in moss--and from which some fine glimpses were caught
+of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the orchard trees,
+which had not yet quite shed their blossoms, was perfectly
+delicious; while the stillness of evening added to the peculiar
+harmony of the whole. We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before
+Madame arrived. She had been twelve years in France, and spoke her
+own language so imperfectly, or rather so unintelligibly, that I
+begged of her to resume the French. Her reception of us was most
+hospitable: but we declined cakes and wine, on account of the
+lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband was in
+possession of from fourscore to a hundred acres of the most
+productive land; and regretted that he was from home, on a visit to
+a neighbouring gentleman; assuring us, if we could stay, that he
+would be heartily glad to see us--&quot;especially any of his
+<EM>countrymen</EM>, when introduced by Monsieur de
+Larenaudiere.&quot; It was difficult to say who smiled and bowed
+with the greater complacency, at this double-shotted compliment. I
+now pressed our retreat homewards. We bade this agreeable lady
+farewell, and returned down the heights, and through the devious
+paths by which we had ascended,</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">While talk of various kind deceived the road.</P>
+
+<P>A more active and profitable day has not yet been devoted to
+Norman objects, whether of art or of nature. Tomorrow I breakfast
+with my friend and guide, and immediately afterwards push on for
+FALAISE. A cabriolet is hired, but doubts are entertained
+respecting the practicability of the route. My next epistle will be
+therefore from Falaise--where the renowned William the Conqueror
+was born, whose body we left entombed at Caen. The day is clearing
+up; and I yet hope for a stroll upon the site of the castle.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XIX.</H3>
+
+<P>DEPARTURE FROM VIRE. CONDÉ. PONT OUILLY. ARRIVAL AT FALAISE.
+HOTEL OF THE GRAND TURC. THE CASTLE OF FALAISE. BIBLIOMANIACAL
+INTERVIEW.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Falaise</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Here I am--or rather, here I have been--my most excellent
+friend, for the last four days--and from hence you will receive
+probably the last despatch from NORMANDY--from the &quot;land (as I
+told you in my first epistle) of &quot;castles, churches, and
+ancient chivalry.&quot; An old, well-situated,
+respectably-inhabited, and even flourishing, town--the birth-place
+too of our renowned FIRST WILLIAM:--weather, the most serene and
+inviting--and hospitality, thoroughly hearty, and after the English
+fashion:--these have all conspired to put me in tolerably good
+spirits. My health, too, thank God, has been of late a little
+improved. You wish me to continue the thread of my narrative
+unbroken; and I take it up therefore from the preparation for my
+departure from Vire.</P>
+
+<P>I breakfasted, as I told you I was about to do, with my friend
+and guide Mons. de Larenaudiere; who had prepared quite a sumptuous
+repast for our participation. Coffee, eggs, sweetmeats, cakes, and
+all the comfortable paraphernalia of an inviting breakfast-table,
+convinced us that we were in well-furnished and respectable
+quarters. Madame did the honours of the meal in perfectly good
+taste; and one of the loveliest children I ever saw--a lad, of
+about five or six years of age--with a profusion of hair of the
+most delicate quality and colour, gave a sort of joyous character
+to our last meal at Vire. The worthy host told me to forget him,
+when I reached my own country;<A name="fnref_166"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_166">166</A> and that, if ever business or
+pleasure brought me again into Normandy, to remember that the Maire
+de Tallevende-le-Petit would-be always happy to renew his
+assurances of hospitality. At the same time, he entreated me to pay
+attention to a list of English books which he put into my hands;
+and of which he stood considerably in need. We bade farewell in the
+true English fashion, by a hearty shake of the hands; and, mounting
+our voiture, gave the signal for departure. &quot;Au plaisir de
+vous revoir!&quot;--&#39;till a turning of the carriage deprived us
+of the sight of each other. It is not easy--and I trust it is not
+natural--for me to forget the last forty-eight hours spent in the
+interesting town of VIRE!</P>
+
+<P>Our route to this place was equally grand and experimental;
+grand, as to the width of the road, and beauty of the surrounding
+country--but experimental, inasmuch as a part of the <EM>route
+royale</EM> had been broken up, and rendered wholly impassable for
+carriages of any weight. Our own, of its kind, was sufficiently
+light; with a covering of close wicker-work, painted after the
+fashion of some of our bettermost tilted carts. One Norman horse,
+in full condition of flesh, with an equal portion of bone and
+muscle, was to convey us to this place, which cannot be less than
+twenty- two good long English miles from Vire. The carriage had no
+springs; and our seat was merely suspended by pieces of leather
+fastened at each end. At <EM>Condé</EM>, about one-third of the
+distance, we baited, to let both man and horse breathe over their
+dinners; while, strolling about that prettily situated little town,
+we mingled with the inhabitants, and contemplated the various faces
+(it being market-day) with no ordinary degree of gratification.
+Amidst the bustle and variety of the scene, our ears were greeted
+by the air of an itinerant ballad-singer: nor will you be
+displeased if I send you a copy of it:--since it is gratifying to
+find any thing like a return to the good old times of the sixteenth
+century.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">VIVE LE ROI, VIVE L&#39;AMOUR.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">François Premier, nous dit l&#39;histoire,<BR>
+ Etoit la fleur des Chevaliers,<BR>
+ Près d&#39;Etampes aux champs de gloire<BR>
+ Il recueillit myrtes et lauriers;<BR>
+ Sa maîtresse toujours fidèle,<BR>
+ Le payant d&#39;un tendre retour,<BR>
+ Lui chantant cette ritournelle;<BR>
+ <EM>Vive le Roi, vive l&#39;Amour</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Henri, des princes le modèle,<BR>
+ Ton souvenir est dans nos coeurs,<BR>
+ Par la charmante Gabrielle<BR>
+ Ton front fut couronné de fleurs;<BR>
+ De la Ligue domptant la rage,<BR>
+ Tu sus triompher tour-à-tour,v Par la clémence et ton courage:<BR>
+ <EM>Vive le Roi, vive l&#39;Amour</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Amant chéri de la Vallière,<BR>
+ Des ennemis noble vainqueur,<BR>
+ LOUIS savoit combattre et plaire,<BR>
+ Guidé par l&#39;Amour et l&#39;honneur;<BR>
+ A son retour de la Victoire,<BR>
+ Entouré d&#39;une aimable cour,<BR>
+ Il entendoit ce cri de gloire:<BR>
+ <EM>Vive le Roi, vive l&#39;Amour</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&amp;c.</P>
+
+<P>There was a freshness of tint, and a comeliness of appearance,
+among the bourgeoises and common people, which were not to be
+eclipsed even by the belles of Coutances. Our garçon de poste and
+his able-bodied quadruped having each properly recruited
+themselves, we set forward--by preference-- to walk up the very
+long and somewhat steep hill which rises on the other side of Conde
+towards <EM>Pont Ouilly</EM>--in the route hither. Perhaps this was
+the most considerable ascent we had mounted on foot, since we had
+left Rouen. The view from the summit richly repaid the toil of
+using our legs. It was extensive, fruitful, and variegated; but
+neither rock nor mountain scenery; nor castles, nor country seats;
+nor cattle, nor the passing traveller--served to mark or to animate
+it. It was still, pure nature, upon a vast and rich scale: and as
+the day was fine, and my spirits good, I was resolved to view and
+to admire.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Pont Ouilly</EM> lies in a hollow; with a pretty winding
+river, which seems to run through its centre. The surrounding hills
+are gently undulating; and as we descended to the Inn, we observed,
+over the opposite side of the town, upon the summit of one of the
+hills, a long procession of men and women--headed by an
+ecclesiastic, elevating a cross--who were about to celebrate, at
+some little distance, one of their annual festivals. The effect--as
+the procession came in contact with a bright blue sky, softened by
+distance--was uncommonly picturesque ... but the day was getting on
+fast, and there was yet a considerable distance to perform,--while,
+in addition, we had to encounter the most impassable part of the
+road. Besides, I had not yet eaten a morsel since I had left Vire.
+Upon holding a consultation, therefore, it was resolved to make for
+the inn, and to dine there. A more sheltered, rural, spot cannot be
+conceived. It resembled very many of the snug scenes in South
+Wales. Indeed the whole country was of a character similar to many
+parts of Monmouthshire; although with a miserable draw-back in
+respect to the important feature of <EM>wood</EM>. Through the
+whole of Normandy, you miss those grand and overshadowing masses of
+oak, which give to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of
+Glocester, that rich and majestic appearance which so decidedly
+marks the character of those counties. However, we are now at the
+inn at Pont Ouilly. A dish of river fish, gudgeons, dace, and
+perch, was speedily put in requisition. Good wine, &quot;than which
+France could boast no better!&quot; and a roast fowl, which the
+daughter of the hostess &quot;knew how to dress to admiration&quot;
+... was all that this humble abode could afford us.&quot; &quot;But
+we were welcome:&quot;--that is, upon condition that we paid our
+reckoning....</P>
+
+<P>The dinner would be ready in a &quot;short half hour.&quot; Mr.
+Lewis, went to the bridge, to look around, for the purpose of
+exercising his pencil: while I sauntered more immediately about the
+house. Within five minutes a well- looking, and even handsome,
+young woman--of an extremely fair complexion-- her hair cut close
+behind--her face almost smothered in a white cap which seemed of
+crape--and habited in a deep black--passed quickly by me, and
+ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humble
+mansion. She smiled graciously at the <EM>aubergiste</EM> as she
+passed her, and quickly disappeared. On enquiry, I was told that
+she was a nun, who, since the suppression of the convent to which
+she had belonged, earned her livelihood by teaching some of the
+more respectable children in the village. She had just completed
+her twentieth year. I was now addressed by a tall, bluff,
+shabby-looking man--who soon led me to understand that he was
+master of the inn where my &quot;suite&quot; was putting up;--that
+I had been egregiously deceived about the nature of the road--for
+that it was totally impossible for <EM>one</EM> horse:--even the
+very best in Normandy--(and where will you find better? added he,
+parenthetically--as I here give it to you) to perform the journey
+with such a voiture and such a weight of luggage behind.&quot; I
+was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence. The
+unpitying landlord saw my consternation. &quot;Hark you, sir ...
+(rejoined he) if you <EM>must</EM> reach Falaise this evening,
+there is only one method of doing it. You must have <EM>another
+horse</EM>.&quot; &quot;Willingly,&quot; I replied. &quot;Yes,
+sir--but you can have it only upon <EM>one</EM> condition.&quot;
+&quot;What is that?&quot; &quot;I have some little business at
+Falaise myself. Allow me to strap about one hundred weight of
+loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myself will be
+your garçon de poste thither.&quot; I own I thought him about the
+most impudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy: but there was no
+time for resistance. Necessity compelled acquiescence. Accordingly,
+the dinner being dispatched--which, though good, was charged at six
+francs a-head--we prepared for our departure.</P>
+
+<P>But judge of my surprise and increased consternation, when the
+fellow ordered forth a little runt of a quadruped--in the shape of
+a horse--which was hardly higher than the lower part of the chest
+of the animal which brought us from Vire! I remonstrated. The
+landlord expostulated. I resisted--but the fellow said it was a
+bargain; and proceeded quietly to deposit at least <EM>two</EM>
+hundred weight of his refined sugar at the back of the carriage.
+This Lilliputian horse was made the leader. The landlord mounted on
+the front seat, with our Vire post-boy by the side of him; and
+sounding his whip, with a most ear-piercing whoop and hollow, we
+sprung forward for Falaise--which we were told we should reach
+before sunset. You can hardly conceive the miseries of this
+cross-road journey. The route royale was, in fact, completely
+impassable; because they were repairing it. Alarmed at the
+ruggedness of the cross-road, where one wheel was in a rut of
+upwards of a foot deep, and the other elevated in proportion--we
+got out, and resolved to push on a-foot. We walked for nearly two
+leagues, before our conveyance overtook us--so harassing and so
+apparently insurmountable seemed to be the road. But the cunning
+aubergiste had now got rid of his leader. He said that it was only
+necessary to use it for the first two or three leagues--which was
+the most difficult part of the route- -and that, for the remainder,
+about five English miles, our &quot;fine Norman horse&quot; was
+perfectly sufficient. This fine Norman horse was treated most
+unmercifully by him. He flogged, he hallooed, he swore ... the
+animal tript, stumbled, and fell upon his knees--more than
+once--from sheer fatigue. The charioteer hallooed and flogged
+again: and I thought we must have taken up our night quarters in
+the high-way;--when suddenly, to the left, I saw the fine warm glow
+of the sun, which had set about twenty minutes, lighting up one of
+the most perfect round towers, of an old castle, that I had yet
+seen in Normandy. Voilà FALAISE!--exclaimed the ruthless
+charioteer; ... and in a quarter of an hour we trotted hard down a
+hill (after the horse had been twice again upon his knees) which
+terminated in this most interesting place.</P>
+
+<P>It will be difficult for me to forget--after such a long,
+wearisome, and in part desperate journey--our approach to
+Falaise:--and more especially the appearance of the castle just
+mentioned. The stone seemed as fresh, and as perfectly cemented, as
+if it had been the work of the preceding year. Moreover, the
+contiguous parts were so fine and so thoroughly picturesque-- and
+the superadded tradition of its being, according to some, the birth
+place--and according to others, the usual residence--of WILLIAM THE
+CONQUEROR ... altogether threw a charm about the first glimpse of
+this venerable pile, which cannot be easily described. I had
+received instructions to put up at the &quot;<EM>Grand
+Turc</EM>&quot;--as the only hotel worthy an Englishman&#39;s
+notice. At the door of the Grand Turk, therefore, we were safely
+deposited: after having got rid of our incumbrances of two
+postilions, and two hundred weight of refined sugar. Our reception
+was gracious in the extreme. The inn appeared &quot;tout-à-fait à
+la mode Anglaise&quot;--and no marvel ... for Madame the hostess
+was an Englishwoman. Her husband&#39;s name was <EM>David</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Bespeaking a late cup of tea, I strolled through the principal
+streets,-- delighted with the remarkably clear current of the
+water, which ran on each side from the numerous overcharged
+fountains. Day-light had wholly declined; when, sitting down to my
+souchong, I saw, with astonishment--a <EM>pair of sugar-tongs</EM>
+and a <EM>salt-spoon</EM>--the first of the kind I had beheld since
+I left England! Madame David enjoyed my surprise; adding, in a very
+droll phraseology, that she had &quot;not forgotten good English
+customs.&quot; Our beds and bed rooms were perfectly comfortable,
+and even elegant.</P>
+
+<P>The moat which encircles, not only the castle, but the town--and
+which must have been once formidable from its depth and breadth,
+when filled with water--is now most pleasingly metamorphosed.
+Pasture lands, kitchen gardens, and orchards, occupy it entirely.
+Here the cattle quietly stray, and luxuriously feed. But the
+metamorphosis of the <EM>castle</EM> has been, in an equal degree,
+unfortunate. The cannon balls, during the wars of the League--and
+the fury of the populace, with the cupidity or caprice of some
+individuals, during the late revolution--helped to produce this
+change. After breakfast, I felt a strong desire to survey carefully
+the scite and structure of the castle. It was a lovely day; and in
+five minutes I obtained admission at a temporary outer gate. The
+first near view within the ramparts perfectly enchanted me. The
+situation is at once bold, commanding, and picturesque. But as the
+opposite, and immediately contiguous ground, is perhaps yet a
+little higher, it should follow that a force, placed upon such
+eminence--as indeed was that of Henry the Fourth, during the wars
+of the League--would in the end subdue the garrison, or demolish
+the castle. I walked here and there amidst briars and brushwood,
+diversified with lilacs and laburnums; and by the aid of the guide
+soon got within an old room--of which the outer walls only
+remained--and which is distinguished by being called the
+<EM>birth-place</EM> of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR.</P>
+
+<P>Between ourselves, the castle appears to be at least a century
+later than the time of William the Conqueror; and certainly the
+fine round tower, of which such frequent mention has been made, is
+rather of the fourteenth, if not of the beginning of the fifteenth
+century;<A name="fnref_167"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_167">167</A> but it is a noble piece of masonry. The stone is
+of a close grain and beautiful colour, and the component parts are
+put together with a hard cement, and with the smallest possible
+interstices. At the top of it, on the left side, facing the high
+road from Vire,--and constructed within the very walls themselves,
+is a <EM>well</EM>--which goes from the top apparently to the very
+bottom of the foundation, quite to the bed of the moat. It is about
+three feet in diameter, measuring with the eye; perhaps four: but
+it is doubtless a very curious piece of workmanship. We viewed with
+an inquisitive eye what remained of the <EM>Donjon</EM>: sighed, as
+we surveyed the ruins of the <EM>chapel</EM>--a very interesting
+little piece of ecclesiastical antiquity: and shuddered as we
+contemplated the enormous and ponderous portcullis-- which had a
+<EM>drop of</EM> full twenty feet ... to keep out the invading foe.
+I was in truth delighted with this first reconnoissance of
+FALAISE--beneath one of the brightest and bluest skies of Normandy!
+and--within walls, which were justly considered to be among the
+most perfect as well as the most ancient of those in Normandy.</P>
+
+<P>Leaving my companion to take a view of the upper part of this
+venerable building, I retreated towards the town--resolved to leave
+no church and no street unexplored. On descending, and quitting the
+gate by which I had entered, a fine, robust, and respectable
+figure, habited as an Ecclesiastic, met and accosted me. I was most
+prompt to return the salutation. &quot;We are proud, Sir, of our
+castle, and I observe you have been visiting it. The English ought
+to take an interest in it, since it was the birth-place of William
+the Conqueror.&quot; I readily admitted it was well worth a minute
+examination: but as readily turned the conversation to the subject
+of LIBRARIES. The amiable stranger (for he was gaining upon me
+fast, by his unaffected manners and sensible remarks) answered,
+that &quot;their <EM>own</EM> public library existed no
+longer--having been made subservient to the inquisitorial visit of
+M. Moysant of Caen<A name="fnref_168"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_168">168</A>: that he had himself procured for the Bishop of
+Bayeux the <EM>Mentz Bible</EM> of 1462--and that the
+Chapter-Library of Bayeux, before the Revolution, could not have
+contained fewer than 40,000 volumes. &quot;But you are doubtless
+acquainted, Sir, with the COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE, who resides in
+yonder large mansion?&quot;-- pointing to a house upon an elevated
+spot on the other side of the town. I replied that I had not that
+honour; and was indeed an utter stranger to every inhabitant of
+Falaise. I then stated, in as few and precise words as possible,
+the particular object of my visit to the Continent. &quot;Cela
+suffit&quot;--resumed the unknown--&quot;nous irons faire visite à
+Monsieur le Comte après le diné; à ce moment il s&#39;occupe avec
+le pôtage--car c&#39;est un jour maigre. Il sera charmé de vous
+recevoir. Il aime infiniment les Anglois, et il a resté long-temps
+chez vous. C&#39;est un brave homme--et même un grand
+antiquaire.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>My pulse and colour increased sensibly as the stranger uttered
+these latter words: and he concluded by telling me that he was
+himself the Curé of <EM>Ste. Trinité</EM> one of the two principal
+churches of the town--and that his name was MOUTON. Be assured that
+I shall not lose sight of the Comte de la Fresnaye, and Monsieur
+Mouton.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XX.</H3>
+
+<P>MONS. MOUTON. CHURCH OF STE. TRINITÉ. COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE.
+GUIBRAY CHURCH. SUPPOSED HEAD OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. M.
+LANGEVIN, HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. PRINTING OFFICES.</P>
+
+<P>I lose no time in the fulfilment of my promise. The church of
+SAINTE TRINITÉ, of which Monsieur Mouton is the Curé, is the second
+place of worship in rank in the town. During the Revolution, Mons.
+Mouton was compelled, with too many of his professional brethren,
+to fly from the general persecution of his order. One solitary and
+most amiable creature only remained; of the name of LANGEVIN--of
+whom, by and by, Monsieur Mouton did me the honour of shewing me
+the interior of his church. His stipend (as he told me) did not
+exceed 1500 francs per annum; and it is really surprising to
+observe to what apparent acts of generosity towards his flock, this
+income is made subservient. You shall hear. The altar consists of
+two angels of the size of life, kneeling very gracefully, in white
+glazed plaister: in the centre, somewhat raised above, is a figure
+of the Virgin, of the same materials; above which again, is a
+representation of the TRINITY--in a blaze of gilt. The massive
+circular columns surrounding the choir--probably of the fourteenth
+century--were just fresh painted, at the expense of the worthy
+Curé, in alternate colours of blue and yellow-- imitative of
+marble;--that is to say, each column, alternately, was blue and
+yellow. It was impossible to behold any thing more glaring and more
+tasteless. I paid my little tribute of admiration at the simplicity
+and grace of the kneeling figure of the Virgin--but was stubbornly
+silent about every thing else. Monsieur Mouton replied that
+&quot;he intended to grace the brows of the angels by putting a
+<EM>garland</EM> round each.&quot; I felt a sort of twinge upon
+receiving this intelligence; but there is no persuading the French
+to reject, or to qualify, their excessive fondness for flower
+ornaments.</P>
+
+<P>Projecting from the wall, behind the circular part of the choir,
+I observed a figure of <EM>St. Sebastian</EM>--precisely of that
+character which we remark in the printed missals of the fifteenth
+century,--and from which the engravers of that period copied them:
+namely, with the head large, the body meagre, and the limbs loose
+and muscular. It was plentifully covered, as was the whole surface
+of the wall, with recent white wash. On observing this, my guide
+added: &quot;oui, et je veux le faire couvrir d&#39;une teinte
+encore plus blanche!&quot; Here I felt a second twinge yet more
+powerful than the first. I noticed, towards the south-side door, a
+very fine crucifix, cut in wood, about three feet high; and
+apparently of the time of Goujon. It was by much the finest piece
+of sculpture, of its kind, which I had seen in Normandy; but it was
+rather in a decaying state. I wished to know whether such an object
+of art--apparently of no earthly importance, where it was
+situated--might be obtained for some honourable and adequate
+compensation. Monsieur Mouton replied that he desired to part with
+it--but that it must be replaced by another &quot;full six feet
+high!&quot; There was no meeting this proposition, and I ceased to
+say another word upon the subject.</P>
+
+<P>Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine
+and capacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot
+conscientiously approve of the beautifying and repairing which are
+going on therein, yet I will do the <EM>planner</EM> the justice to
+say, that a more gentlemanly, liberally-minded, and truly amiable
+clergyman is perhaps no where to be found,--within or without the
+diocese to which he belongs. Attached to the north transept or side
+door, parallel with the street, is a long pole. &quot;What might
+this mean?&quot; &quot;Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by a
+garland, and by the white flag of <EM>St. Louis</EM>,<A name=
+"fnref_169"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_169">169</A>--which were
+hoisted to receive me on my return from my long
+expatriation&quot;--and the eyes of the narrator were suffused with
+tears, as he made the answer! It is of no consequence how small the
+income of an unmarried minister, may be, when he thus lives so
+entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK. This church bears abundant
+evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of
+the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.: although the most
+essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part
+of the fourteenth century.<A name="fnref_170"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_170">170</A> Having expressed my admiration of the
+manufacture of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had
+frequently observed in the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me
+into the sacristy (similar to our vestry-room) begged I would do
+him the honour to accept of any which might be lying upon the
+table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: of a spiral,
+or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length and
+width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of
+various colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little
+rosettes made of wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained,
+startles an Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article
+of trade in his own country. You see frequently, against the walls
+and pillars of the choir, fragments of these larger wax candles,
+guttering down and begrimed from the uses made of them in time of
+worship. In this sacristy there were two little boys swinging
+<EM>wooden</EM> censers, by way of practice for the more perfect
+use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. To
+manage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit of
+observing during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or
+easy attainment.</P>
+
+<P>From the Curé we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose
+pleasantly situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may
+remember, by the former. Passing over one of the bridges, leading
+towards <EM>Guibray</EM>, and ascending a gentle eminence to the
+left, I approached the outer lodge of this large and
+respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were at dinner:
+but at <EM>three</EM> they would rise from table.
+&quot;Meanwhile,&quot; said the porter, it might give me pleasure
+to walk in the garden.&quot; It was one of the loveliest days
+imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I had scarcely
+before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs and
+laburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white,
+purple, and yellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a
+bench, bethought me of the strange visit I was about to make--as
+well as of all the pleasing pastoral poetry and painting which I
+had read in the pages of De Lille, or viewed upon the canvas of
+Watteau. The clock of the church of <EM>St. Gervais</EM> struck
+three; when, starting from my reverie, I knocked at the hall-door,
+and was announced to the family, (who had just risen from dinner)
+above stairs. A circle of five gentlemen would have alarmed a very
+nervous visitor; but the Count, addressing me in a semi-British and
+semi- Gallic phraseology, immediately dissipated my fears. In five
+minutes he was made acquainted with the cause of this apparent
+intrusion.</P>
+
+<P>Nothing could exceed his amiable frankness. The very choicest
+wine was circulated at his table; of which I partook in a more
+decided manner on the following day--when he was so good as to
+invite me to dine. When I touched upon his favourite theme of
+Norman Antiquities, he almost shouted aloud the name of
+INGULPH,--that &quot;cher ami de Guillaume le Conquérant!&quot; I
+was unwilling to trespass long; but I soon found the advantage of
+making use of the name of &quot;Monsieur Mouton--l&#39;estimable
+Curé de la Sainte Trinité.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>In a stroll to Guibray, towards sunset the next day, I passed
+through a considerable portion of the Count&#39;s property, about
+300 acres, chiefly of pasture land. The evening was really
+enchanting; and through the branches of the coppice wood the sun
+seemed to be setting in a bed of molten gold. Our conversation was
+animated and incessant. In the old and curious church of Guibray,
+the Count shewed us his family pew with the care and particularity
+of an old country squire. Meanwhile Mr. Lewis was making a hasty
+copy of one of the very singular ornaments--representing <EM>Christ
+bearing his cross</EM>--which was suspended against the walls of
+the altar of a side chapel.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/379.png" alt="Christ bearing his cross"></DIV>
+
+<P>You have it here. It is frightfully barbarous, and
+characteristic of the capricious style of art which frequently
+prevailed about the year 1520: but the wonder is, how such a
+wretched performance could obtain admission into the sanctuary
+where it was deposited. It was however the pious gift of the vestry
+woman--who shewed us the interior--and who had religiously rescued
+it, during the Revolution, from the demolition of a neighbouring
+abbey. The eastern end of this church is perhaps as old as any
+ecclesiastical edifice in Normandy;<A name="fnref_171"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_171">171</A> and its exterior (to which we
+could only approach by wading through rank grass as high as our
+knees) is one of the most interesting of its kind. During our
+admiration of all that was curious in this venerable edifice, we
+were struck by our old friends, the <EM>penitents</EM>,--busy in
+making confession. In more than one confessional there were two
+penitents; and towards one of these, thus doubly attended, I saw a
+very large, athletic, hard-visaged priest hastening, just having
+slipt on his surplice in the vestry. Indeed I had been cursorily
+introduced to him by the Count. It was Saturday evening, and the
+ensuing Sunday was to be marked by some grand procession.</P>
+
+<P>The village-like town of Guibray presents a most singular sight
+to the eye of a stranger. There are numerous little narrow streets,
+with every window closed by wooden shutters, and every door
+fastened. It appears as if the plague had recently raged there, and
+that the inhabitants had quitted it for ever. Not a creature is
+visible: not a sound is heard: not a mouse seems to be stirring.
+And yet Guibray boasts of the LARGEST FAIR in France, save one!<A
+name="fnref_172"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_172">172</A> This,
+my friend, precisely accounts for the aspect of desolation just
+described. During the intervals of these <EM>triennial</EM> fairs,
+the greater part of the village is uninhabited: venders and
+purchasers flocking and crowding by hundreds when they take place.
+In a short, narrow street--where nothing animated was to be
+seen--the Count assured me that sometimes, in the course of one
+morning, several millions of francs were spent in the purchase of
+different wares. We left this very strange place with our minds
+occupied by a variety of reflections: but at any rate highly
+pleased and gratified by the agreeable family which had performed
+the part of guides on the occasion. In the evening, a professor of
+music treated us with some pleasing tunes upon the guitar--which
+utterly astonished the Count--and it was quite night-fall when we
+returned homewards, towards our quarters at the hotel of the
+<EM>Grand Turc</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>A memorable incident occurred in our way homewards; which, when
+made known, will probably agitate the minds and shake the faith of
+two-thirds of the members of our Society of Antiquaries. You may
+remember that I told you, when at Caen, that the Abbe De la Rue had
+notified to me what were the objects more particularly deserving of
+attention in my further progress through Normandy. Among these, he
+particularly mentioned a figure or head of William the Conqueror at
+Falaise. In the <EM>Place St. Gervais</EM>, this wonderful head was
+said to exist--and to exist there only. It was at the house of an
+Innkeeper--certainly not moving in the highest circle of his
+calling. I lost little time in visiting it; and found it situated
+at the top of a dark narrow staircase, projecting from the wall, to
+the right, just before you reach the first floor. Some sensation
+had been excited by the enquiries, which I had previously set on
+foot; and on a second visit, several people were collected to
+receive us. Lights, warm water, towels, soap and brushes, were
+quickly put in requisition. I commenced operations with a kitchen
+knife, by carefully scraping away all the layers of hardened white
+and ochre washes, with which each generation had embedded and
+almost obliterated every feature. By degrees, the hair became
+manifest: then followed the operation of soap and water--which
+brought out the features of the face; and when the eyes fully and
+distinctly appeared, the exclamation of &quot;<EM>Mon
+Dieu</EM>!&quot; by the spectators, was loud and unremitting. The
+nose had received a serious injury by having its end broken off.
+Anon, stood forth the mouth; and when the &quot;whiskered
+majesty&quot; of the beard became evident, it was quite impossible
+to repress the simultaneous ejaculation of joy and astonishment ...
+&quot;<EM>Voilà le vrai portrait de Guillaume le
+Conquérant</EM>!</P>
+
+<P>The whiskers apparently denote it to be rather <EM>Saxon</EM>
+than <EM>Norman</EM>. The head is nearly eleven inches in length,
+by seven and a half in width: is cut upon a very coarse, yet
+hard-grained stone--and rests upon a square, unconnected
+stone:--embedded within the wall. If it ever had shoulders and
+body, those shoulders and body were no part of the present
+appendages of the head. What then, is the Abbé de la Rue in error?
+The more liberal inference will be, that the Abbé de la Rue had
+never seen it. As to its antiquity, I am prepared to admit it to be
+very considerable; and, if you please, even before the period of
+the loves of the father and mother of the character whom it is
+supposed to represent. In the morning, Madame Rolle seemed disposed
+to take ten louis (which I freely offered her) for her precious
+fragment: but the distinct, collected view of whiskers, mouth,
+nose, eyes, and hair, instantaneously raised the quicksilver of her
+expectations to &quot;<EM>quinze</EM> louis pour le moins!&quot;
+That was infinitely &quot;trop fort&quot;--and we parted without
+coming to any terms. Perhaps you will laugh at me for the previous
+offer.</P>
+
+<P>The church of St. Gervais is called the mother church of the
+town: and it is right that you should have some notion of it. It
+stands upon a finely elevated situation. Its interior is rather
+capacious: but it has no very grand effect-arising from simplicity
+or breadth of architecture. The pillars to the right of the nave,
+on entering from the western extremity, are doubtless old; perhaps
+of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The arches are a
+flattened semicircle; while those on the opposite side are
+comparatively sharp, and of a considerably later period. The
+ornaments of the capitals of these older pillars are, some of them,
+sufficiently capricious and elaborate; while others are of a more
+exceptionable character on the score of indelicacy. But this does
+not surprise a man who has been accustomed to examine ART, of the
+middle centuries, whether in sculpture or in painting. The side
+aisles are comparatively modern. The pillars of the choir have
+scarcely any capitals beyond a simple rim or fillet; and are
+surmounted by sharp low arches, like what are to be seen at St. Lo
+and Coutances. The roof of the left side aisle is perfectly green
+from damp: the result, as at Coutances, of thereof having been
+stripped for the sake of the lead to make bullets, &amp;c. during
+the Revolution. I saw this large church completely filled on
+Sunday, at morning service--about eleven: and, in the congregation,
+I observed several faces and figures, of both sexes, which
+indicated great intelligence and respectability. Indeed there was
+much of the air of a London congregation about the whole.</P>
+
+<P>From the Church, we may fairly make any thing but a
+digression--in discoursing of one of its brightest ornaments, in
+the person of Monsieur LANGEVIN:--a simple priest--as he styles
+himself in an octavo volume, which entitles him to the character of
+the best living HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. He is a mere officiating
+minister in the church of Mons. Mouton; and his salary, as he led
+me to infer, could be scarcely twenty louis per annum. Surely this
+man is among the most amiable and excellent of God&#39;s creatures!
+But it is right that you should know the origin and progress of our
+acquaintance. It was after dinner, on one of the most industriously
+spent of my days here--and the very second of my arrival,--that the
+waiter announced the arrival of the Abbé Langevin, in the passage,
+with a copy of his History beneath his arm. The door opened, and in
+walked the stranger-- habited in his clerical garb--with a
+physiognomy so benign and expressive, and with manners so gentle
+and well-bred,--that I rose instinctively from my seat to give him
+the most cordial reception. He returned my civility in a way which
+shewed at once that he was a man of the most interesting simplicity
+of character. &quot;He was aware (he said) that he had intruded;
+but as he understood &quot;Monsieur was in pursuit of the
+antiquities of the place, he had presumed to offer for his
+acceptance a copy of a work upon that subject--of which he was the
+humble author.&quot; This work was a good sized thick crown octavo,
+filling five hundred closely and well-printed pages; and of which
+the price was <EM>fifty sous</EM>! The worthy priest, seeing my
+surprise on his mentioning the price, supposed that I had
+considered it as rather extravagant. But this error was rectified
+in an instant. I ordered <EM>three copies</EM> of his historical
+labours, and told him my conscience would not allow me to pay him
+less than <EM>three francs</EM> per copy. He seemed to be
+electrified: rose from his seat:--and lifting up one of the most
+expressive of countenances, with eyes apparently suffused with
+tears-- raised both his hands, and exclaimed.... &quot;Que le bon
+Dieu vous bénisse--les Anglois sont vraiement généreux!&quot;</P>
+
+<P>For several seconds I sat riveted to my seat. Such an unfeigned
+and warm acknowledgment of what I had considered as a mere
+matter-of-course proposition, perfectly astounded me: the more so,
+as it was accompanied by a gesture and articulation which could not
+fail to move any bosom--not absolutely composed of marble. We each
+rallied, and resumed the conversation. In few but simple words he
+told me his history. He had contrived to weather out the
+Revolution, at Falaise. His former preferment had been wholly taken
+from him; and he was now a simple assistant in the church of Mons.
+Mouton. He had yielded without resistance; as even
+<EM>remonstrance</EM> would have been probably followed up by the
+guillotine. To solace himself in his afflictions, he had recourse
+to his old favourite studies of <EM>medicine</EM> and
+<EM>music</EM>;--and had in fact practised the former. &quot;But
+come, Sir, (says he) come and do me the honour of a call--when it
+shall suit you.&quot; I settled it for the ensuing day. On breaking
+up and taking leave, the amiable stranger modestly spoke of his
+History. It had cost him three years&#39; toil; and he seemed to
+mention, with an air of triumph, the frequent references in it to
+the <EM>Gallia Christiana</EM>, and to <EM>Chartularies</EM> and
+<EM>Family Records</EM> never before examined. On the next day I
+carried my projected visit into execution--towards seven in the
+evening. The lodgings of M. Langevin are on the second floor of a
+house belonging to a carpenter. The worthy priest received me on
+the landing- place, in the most cheerful and chatty manner. He has
+three small rooms on the same floor. In the first, his library is
+deposited. On my asking him to let me see what <EM>old books</EM>
+he possessed, he turned gaily round, and replied--&quot;Comment
+donc, Monsieur, vous aimez les vieux livres? A ça, voyons!&quot;
+Whereupon he pulled away certain strips or pieces of wainscot, and
+shewed me his book-treasures within the recesses. On my recognising
+a <EM>Colinæus</EM> and <EM>Henry Stephen</EM>, ere he had read the
+title of the volumes, he seemed to marvel exceedingly, and to gaze
+at me as a conjuror. He betrayed more than ordinary satisfaction on
+shewing his <EM>Latin Galen</EM> and <EM>Hippocrates</EM>; and the
+former, to the best of my recollection, contained Latin notes in
+the margin, written by himself. These tomes were followed up by a
+few upon <EM>alchymy</EM> and <EM>astrology</EM>; from which, and
+the consequent conversation, I was led to infer that the amiable
+possessor entertained due respect for those studies which had
+ravished our DEES and ASHMOLES of old.</P>
+
+<P>In the second room stood an upright piano forte--the
+<EM>manufacture</EM>, as well as the property, of Monsieur
+Langevin. It bore the date of 1806; and was considered as the first
+of the kind introduced into Normandy. It was impossible not to be
+struck with the various rational sources of amusement, by means of
+which this estimable character had contrived to beguile the hours
+of his misfortunes. There was a calm, collected, serenity of manner
+about him--a most unfeigned and unqualified resignation to the
+divine will--which marked him as an object at once of admiration
+and esteem. There was no boast--no cant--no formal sermonising. You
+<EM>saw</EM> what religion had done for him. Her effects
+<EM>spake</EM> in his discourse and in his life.... Over his piano
+hung a portrait of himself; very indifferently executed--and not
+strongly resembling the original. &quot;We can do something more
+faithful than this, sir, if you will allow it&quot;--said I,
+pointing to Mr. Lewis: and it was agreed that he should give the
+latter a sitting on the morrow. The next day M. Langevin came
+punctually to his appointment, for the purpose of having his
+portrait taken.</P>
+
+<P>On telling this original that the pencil drawing of Mr. Lewis
+(which by the bye was executed in about an hour and a half) should
+be <EM>engraved</EM>-- inasmuch as he was the modern <EM>Historian
+of Falaise</EM>--he seemed absolutely astonished. He moved a few
+paces gently forwards, and turning round, with hands and eyes
+elevated, exclaimed, in a tremulous and heart- stricken tone of
+voice, &quot;Ah, mon Dieu!&quot; I will not dissemble that I took
+leave of him with tears, which were with difficulty concealed.
+&quot;Adieu, pour toujours!&quot;--were words which he uttered with
+all the sincerity, and with yet more pathos, than was even shewn by
+Pierre Aimé Lair at Caen. The landlord and landlady of this hotel
+are warm in their commendations of him: assuring me that his name
+is hardly ever pronounced without the mention of his virtues. He
+has just entered his sixty-second year.<A name="fnref_173"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_173">173</A></P>
+
+<P>It remains only to give an account of the progress of Printing
+and of Literature in this place: although the latter ought to
+precede the former. As a literary man, our worthy acquaintance the
+Comte de la Fresnaye takes the lead: yet he is rather an amateur
+than a professed critic. He has written upon the antiquities of the
+town; but his work is justly considered inferior to that of
+Monsieur Langevin. He quotes <EM>Wace</EM> frequently, and with
+apparent satisfaction; and he promises a French version of his
+beloved <EM>Ingulph</EM>. Falaise is a quiet, dull place of resort,
+for those who form their notions of retirement as connected with
+the occasional bustle and animation of Caen and Rouen. But the
+situation is pleasing. The skies are serene: the temperature is
+mild, and the fruits of the earth are abundant and nutritious. Many
+of the more respectable inhabitants expressed their surprise to me
+that there were so few English resident in its neighbourhood--so
+much preferable, on many accounts to that of Caen. But our
+countrymen, you know, are sometimes a little capricious in the
+objects of their choice. Just now, it is the <EM>fashion</EM> for
+the English to reside at Caen; yet when you consider that the major
+part of our countrymen reside there for the purpose of educating
+their children--and that Caen, from its numerous seminaries of
+education, contains masters of every description, whose lessons are
+sometimes as low as a frank for each--it is not surprising that
+Falaise is deserted for the former place. For myself-- and for all
+those who love a select society, a sweet country, and rather a
+plentiful sprinkle of antiquarian art,--for such, in short, who
+would read the fabliaux of the old Norman bards in peace, comfort,
+and silence--there can be no question about the preference to be
+given to the spot from which I send this my last Norman
+despatch.</P>
+
+<P>I have before made mention of the fountains in this place. They
+are equally numerous and clear. The inn in which we reside has not
+fewer than three fountains--or rather of <EM>jets
+d&#39;eau</EM>--constantly playing. Those in the <EM>Place St.
+Trinité Grand Rue</EM>, and <EM>Place St. Gervais</EM>, are the
+largest; but every gutter trickles with water as if dissolved from
+the purest crystal. It has been hot weather during the greater part
+of our stay; and the very sight of these translucent streams seems
+to refresh one&#39;s languid frame. But I proceed chiefly to the
+productions of the PRESS. They do a good deal of business here in
+the way of ephemeral publications. Letellier, situated in the
+Grande Rue, is the chief printer of <EM>chap books</EM>: and if we
+judge from the general character of these, the <EM>Falaisois</EM>
+seem to be marvellously addicted to the effusions of the muse.
+Indeed, their ballads, of all kinds, are innumerable. Read a few--
+which are to be found in the very commonest publications. There is
+something rather original, and of a very pleasingly tender cast, in
+the first two:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">LE BAISER D&#39;ADIEUX.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Pres de toi l&#39;heuré du
+mystère</SPAN><BR>
+ Ne m&#39;appellera plus demain,<BR>
+ Vers ta demeure solitaire<BR>
+ Mes pas me guideront en vain;<BR>
+ J&#39;ai respiré ta douce haleine,<BR>
+ Et des pleurs ont mouillé mes yeux,</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">J&#39;ai tout senti, plaisir et peine,<BR>
+ J&#39;ai reçu ton baiser d&#39;adieux. ) <EM>bis.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Tu pars, et malgré ta
+promesse</SPAN><BR>
+ Rien ne m&#39;assure de ta foi,<BR>
+ Nul souvenir de ta tendresse<BR>
+ Ne vient me dire: Pense à moi.<BR>
+ Ton amour qu&#39;envain je réclame<BR>
+ Ne me laisse, en quittant ces lieux,<BR>
+ Que Phumide et brulante flamme<BR>
+ De ton dernier baiser d&#39;adieux.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Puisse au moins ton
+indifférence</SPAN><BR>
+ Te garder d&#39;un nouvel amour.<BR>
+ Et le veuvage de l&#39;absence<BR>
+ Hâter ton fortuné retour!<BR>
+ Puisse alors l&#39;amant qui t&#39;adore,<BR>
+ Te revoyant aux mêmes lieux,<BR>
+ Sur tes lèvres vierges encore<BR>
+ Retrouver son baiser d&#39;adieux!</P>
+
+<HR>
+<P class="poetry">L&#39;IMAGE DE LA VIE.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Nous naissons et dans notre coeur,<BR>
+ A peine aux portes de la vie,<BR>
+ Tout au plaisir, tout au bonheur,<BR>
+ Et nous invite et nous convie;<BR>
+ D&#39;abord, simples amusements<BR>
+ Savent contenter notre enfance;<BR>
+ Mais bientòt aux jeux innocens,<BR>
+ L&#39;amour nous prend ... sans qu&#39;on y pense.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Fillette à l&#39;âge de quinze ans,<BR>
+ Offre l&#39;image de la rose,<BR>
+ Qui dès l&#39;approche du printemps,<BR>
+ Entr&#39;ouvre sa feuille mi-close;<BR>
+ Bientôt l&#39;aiguillon du désir<BR>
+ Vient ouvrir fleur d&#39;innocence,<BR>
+ Et sous la bouche du plaisir,<BR>
+ Elle s&#39;éclôt ... sans qu&#39;elle y pense.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Vous, qui pendant vos jeunes ans,<BR>
+ Ne courtisez pas la folie,<BR>
+ Songez donc que cet heureux temps<BR>
+ Ne dure pas toute la vie,<BR>
+ Assez vite il nous faut quitter<BR>
+ Tendres ardeurs, vives jouissances;<BR>
+ Et dans uu coeur qui sait aimer,<BR>
+ La raison vient ... sans qu&#39;on y pense.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Mais enfin, sur l&#39;âile du temps,<BR>
+ On arrive au but du voyage,<BR>
+ Et l&#39;on voit la glace des ans,<BR>
+ Couronner nos fronts à cet âge;<BR>
+ S&#39;il fut sensible à la pitié,<BR>
+ S&#39;il cultiva la bienfaisance,<BR>
+ Entre les bras de l&#39;amitié<BR>
+ L&#39;homme finit ... sans qu&#39;il y pense</P>
+
+<P>You must know that they are here great lovers of royalty, and of
+course great supporters of the Bourbon Family. The King&#39;s
+printer is a Mons. BRÉE l&#39;Ainé. He is a very pleasant,
+well-bred man, and lives in the <EM>Place Trinité</EM>. I have paid
+him more than one visit, and always felt additional pleasure at
+every repetition of it. My first visit was marked with a somewhat
+ludicrous circumstance. On entering the compositors&#39; room, I
+observed, pasted upon the walls, in large capital letters, the
+following well known words:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">GOD SAVE THE KING.</P>
+
+<P>Both Monsieur Brée l&#39;Ainé--and his workmen were equally
+gratified by my notice and commendation of this sentiment. &quot;It
+is the favourite sentiment, Sir, of your country,&quot;--remarked
+the master. To this I readily assented. &quot;It is also, Sir, the
+favourite one of our own,&quot; replied M. Brée l&#39;Ainé-- and
+his men readily attested their concurrence in the same reply.
+&quot;Ah, Sir, if you would only favour us by <EM>singing the
+air</EM>, to which these words belong, you would infinitely oblige
+us all&quot; ... said a shrewd and intelligent-looking compositor.
+&quot;With all my heart&quot;--rejoined I--&quot;but I must frankly
+tell you, that I shall sing it rather with heart than with
+voice--being neither a vocal nor an instrumental performer.&quot;
+&quot;No matter: give us only a notion of it.&quot; They all stood
+round in a circle, and I got through two stanzas as gravely and as
+efficiently as I was able. The usual &quot;charmant!&quot; followed
+my exertions. It was now my turn to ask a favour. &quot;Sing to me
+your favourite national air of ROBERT and ARLETTE.&quot; &quot;Most
+willingly, Sir,&quot; replied the forementioned &quot;shrewd and
+intelligent-looking compositor.&quot; &quot;Tenez: un petit moment:
+je vais chercher mon violon. Ca ira mieux.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>He left the house in search of his violin. The tune of the
+National air which he sung was both agreeable and lively: and upon
+the whole it was difficult to say which seemed to be the better
+pleased with the respective national airs. M. Brée shewed me his
+premises in detail. They had been formerly a portion of an old
+church; and are situated on the edge of the great fosse which
+encircles the town. A garden, full of sweet blooming flowers, is
+behind them; and the view backwards is cheerful and picturesque.
+There are generally five presses at work; which, for a provincial
+printing office, shews business to be far from slack. Mons. B.
+sells a great number of almanacks, and prints all the leading
+publications connected with the town. In fact, his title, as
+<EM>Imprimeur du Roi</EM>, supposes him to take the principal lead
+as a printer. This agreeable man has a brother who is professor of
+rhetoric in the Collège Royale at Paris.</P>
+
+<P>Of <EM>Bouquinistes</EM>, or dealers in old books, there are
+scarcely any. I spent three or four fruitless hours in a search
+after old chronicles and old poetry: and was compelled, almost from
+pure civility, to purchase of DUFOURS a <EM>Petit&#39;s Virgil</EM>
+of 1529, folio--which will be hardly worth the carriage. I tried
+hard for a fine copy of <EM>Fauchet&#39;s Origines de la Poésie
+Françoise</EM>, 1581, 4to. with the head of the author, but in
+vain; yet endeavoured to console myself by an old blue morocco copy
+of <EM>Les regrets et tristes lamentations du Comte de
+Montgomery</EM>, by <EM>Demorenne</EM>, Rouen, 1574, 8vo. as well
+as a clean, fresh, and almost crackling copy of <EM>Amoureuses
+occupations de la Taysonniere</EM>, Lyon, 1555, 8vo.--for two
+francs each--and both destined for the rich and choice library of
+our friend....</P>
+
+<P>Thus much for FALAISE: for a spot, which, from the uniform
+serenity of the weather since I have been here--from the comfort of
+the inn--from the extreme civility and attention of the
+townspeople--and from the yet more interesting society of the Comte
+de la Fresnaye, the <EM>Curés</EM> Mouton and Langevin--together
+with the amenity of the surrounding country, and the interesting
+and in part magnificent remains of antiquity--can never be erased
+from my recollection. It is here that the tourist and antiquary may
+find objects for admiration and materials for recording. I have
+done both: admired and recorded--happy, if the result of such
+occupations shall have contributed to the substantial gratification
+of yourself and of our common friends. And now, farewell; not only
+to Falaise, but to NORMANDY. I shall leave it, from this delightful
+spot, in the most thorough good humour, and with more than ordinary
+regret that my stay has necessarily been short. I have taken my
+place in the Diligence, direct for PARIS. &quot;Il n&#39;y a
+qu&#39;un Paris&quot;--said the Comte de la Fresnaye to me the
+other day, when I told him I had never been there--to which I
+replied, &quot;Are there then TWO Londons?&quot; Thirty-six hours
+will settle all this. In the mean time, adieu.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">LETTER XXI.</H3>
+
+<P>JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO
+PARIS.</P>
+
+<P><EM>Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissonière, May</EM> 30, 1819.</P>
+
+<P>&quot;Time and the hour runs through the roughest day.&quot;
+They must be protacted miseries indeed which do not, at some period
+or other, have something like a termination. I am here, then my
+good friend--safe and sound at last; comfortably situated in a
+boarding house, of which the mistress is an agreeable Englishwoman
+and the master an intelligent Swiss. I have sauntered, gazed, and
+wondered--and exchanged a thousand gracious civilities! I have
+delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken hands with
+Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which the
+renowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the
+<EM>Thuileries</EM> and the <EM>Louvre</EM>; repeatedly
+reconnoitred the <EM>Boulevards</EM>; viewed the gilt dome of the
+<EM>Hôtel des Invalides</EM>, and the white flag upon the
+bronze-pillar in the <EM>Place Vendome</EM>; seen crowds of our
+countrymen at <EM>Meurice&#39;s</EM> and in the hotels about the
+<EM>Rue de la Paix;</EM> partaken of the rival ices of
+<EM>Tortoni</EM> and the <EM>Caffé des Mille Colonnes</EM>; bought
+old French poetry at a Bouquiniste&#39;s: and drank Chambertin and
+Champagne at the richly garnished table of our ----. These are what
+may be called good <EM>foreground objects</EM> in the composition
+of a Parisian picture. Now for the filling up of the canvas with
+appropriate and harmonizing detail.</P>
+
+<P>A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a
+proposal; for it cannot be, in this my <EM>first</EM> despatch,
+that you are to receive any thing like an adequate notion of the
+topics thus hastily thrown together on the first impulse of
+Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: and at least
+admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letter
+left me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely
+from that place that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to
+leave it, as I told you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the
+Sunday, immediately following the date of the despatch transmitted.
+I shall have reason to remember that journey for many a day to
+come; but, &quot;post varios casus, &amp;c.&quot; I am thankful to
+find myself safely settled in my present comfortable abode. The
+Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually starts for
+Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard
+incessant juvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the
+Grand Turc; What might this mean? Between three and four, as the
+day began to break, I rose, and approaching the window, saw, from
+thence, a number of little boys and girls busied in making
+artificial flower-beds and sand- borders, &amp;c. Their tongues and
+their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It was
+impossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a
+proceeding; but, opening the window, I thought there could be no
+harm in asking a very simple question--which I will confess to you
+was put in rather an irritable manner on my part ... for I had been
+annoyed by their labours for more than the last hour. &quot;What
+are you about, there?&quot; I exclaimed --&quot;Ha, is it you
+Sir?&quot; replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one
+else. &quot;Yes, (resumed I) tell me what you are about
+there?&quot; &quot;in truth, we are making <EM>Réposoirs</EM> for
+the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Is it not a
+pretty thing, Sir?&quot; exclaimed a sweetly modulated female
+voice. All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was
+instantly convinced that Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment
+than when he said--&quot;A soft answer turneth away wrath!&quot; I
+admitted the prettiness of the thing without comprehending a
+particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key, shut the
+window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: and the
+little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break
+forth in a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence,
+I was almost feverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre
+announced that &quot;it was eight o&#39;clock, and the morning most
+beautiful.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>These <EM>réposoirs</EM> are of more importance than you are
+aware of. They consist of little spots, or spaces in the streets,
+garnished with flowers, and intersected by walks, marked with fine
+gravel, in the centre of which the Host rests, on its passing to
+and fro from the several parishes. When I rose to dress, I observed
+the work of art--which had been in progress during the
+night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespass by
+pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or,
+whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to
+deposit a sous as the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon
+the whole, this réposoir might be about sixteen feet square.
+Towards eleven o&#39;clock the different religious ceremonies
+began. On one side the noise of the drum, and the march of the
+national guard, indicated that military mass was about to be
+performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed and
+officiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses
+of both laity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and
+made every inmate of every mansion thrust his head out of window,
+to gaze at the passing spectacle. We were among the latter
+denomination of lookers on, and recognised, with no small
+gratification, our clerical friends Messieurs Mouton, Langevin, and
+the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by a great number of
+respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnaye and his
+amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made most
+respectable figures; They approached the réposoir in question. The
+priests, with the Host, took their station within it; silence
+followed; one officiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what
+seemed to be, the wooden covers of a book,--with, considerable
+violence--rose--turned round, and the procession being again put in
+motion--the whole marched away to the church of the Holy
+Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what I was
+unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed to
+imitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect
+its own particular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we
+cannot commend ... and insult and disrespect are among the last
+actions which a well regulated mind will shew in its treatment of
+such matters. I should add, that these réposoirs, a few hours after
+the performance of the ceremony just described, are
+indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sand banks
+falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the
+passenger.</P>
+
+<P>Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had
+been formerly an establishment of very considerable extent and
+celebrity; but whether it was originally connected with the
+hospital of the <EM>Léproserie de Saint Lasare</EM>, (about which
+the Abbé Langevin&#39;s History of Falaise is rather curious) the
+<EM>Hôtel-Dieu</EM>, or the <EM>Hôpital Général</EM>, I cannot take
+upon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this
+establishment does great credit to those who have the conduct of
+it. As foreigners, and particularly as Englishmen, we were
+permitted to see the whole, without reserve. On my return from
+witnessing the ceremony at the church of the Trinity, I visited
+this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphic operations
+before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figure of
+the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculine
+complexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven
+tint--she added a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put
+into action, moved in a most decided manner. A large bunch of
+massive keys was suspended from a girdle at her side; and her
+dress, which was black, was rendered more characteristic and
+striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called,
+<EM>bustles</EM> above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the
+floor seemed equally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke
+would have painted this severe Duenna-like looking matron with
+inimitable force and truth. But ... she no sooner opened her mouth,
+than all traits of severity vanished. Her voice was even musical,
+and her &quot;façon de parler&quot; most gracious. She shewed me
+the whole establishment with equal good humour and alertness; and I
+don&#39;t know when I ever made such a number of bows (to the
+several female patients in the wards) within such limited time and
+space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there were
+several architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenth
+century, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions;
+as, upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to the
+gratuitous disposal of them.</P>
+
+<P>The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were
+summoned to the Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy
+host and hostess of the <EM>Grand Turc</EM>, (whom I strongly
+recommend all Englishmen to visit) I made up my mind for a
+thirty-six hour&#39;s journey--as I was to reach Paris on Tuesday
+morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of the
+year; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches of
+sleep-- greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay
+and downfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took
+our departure. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we
+approached <EM>L&#39;Aigle</EM>, the left braces (which proved to
+be thoroughly rotted leather) broke in two: and down slid, rather
+than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence! There were two French
+gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves in the coach.
+While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmen
+found consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffé, (it
+was between four and five in the morning), rousing the master and
+mistress, and as I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking
+for coffee: while they amused themselves with billiards during its
+preparation. I was in no humour for eating, drinking, or playing:
+for here was a second sleepless night! Having repaired this crazy
+vehicle, we rumbled on for <EM>Verneuil</EM>; where it was
+exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, about
+eleven o&#39;clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it
+not be said that the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively
+to our country:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack
+upon substantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before
+witnessed. I was well contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and
+bread--as who might not well be?... but my companions, after taking
+these in flank, cut through the centre of a roast fowl and a dish
+of stewed veal: making diversions, in the mean while, upon sundry
+bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, during the meal, being
+as instrumental as the white metal forks.</P>
+
+<P>We set off at a good round trot for <EM>Dreux</EM>: and, in the
+route thither, we ascended a long and steep hill, having
+<EM>Nonancourt</EM> to the left. Here we saw some very pretty
+country houses, and the whole landscape had an air of English
+comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the first
+time, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a
+most stiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any
+thing but the brown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against
+which the vine is trained. But the sloping banks, on each side of
+the ascending road, were covered with plantations of this precious
+tree; and I was told that, if the <EM>autumn</EM> should prove as
+auspicious as appeared the <EM>spring</EM>, there would be a season
+of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart.
+Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the
+country about <EM>Nonancourt</EM>. The sun was fast descending as
+we entered the town of <EM>Dreux</EM>--where I had resolved upon
+taking leave both of the diligence and of my companions; and of
+reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, or rather perhaps made
+an early supper; when my fellow travellers <EM>sustained</EM> their
+reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl.
+Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the
+charge moderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the
+score of provision of reasonableness of cost, like the <EM>table
+d&#39;hôte</EM> throughout France; and he who cannot accommodate
+himself to the hour of dining (usually about one) must make up his
+mind to worse fare and treble charges.</P>
+
+<P>After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near
+the castle. We visited the principal church, <EM>St. Jean</EM>,
+which is very spacious, and upon the whole is a fine piece of
+architecture. I speak more particularly of the interior--where I
+witnessed, however, some of the most horrible devastations, arising
+from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one of the side
+chapels, there <EM>had been</EM> a magnificent monument; perhaps
+from sixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as
+large as life, from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some
+trenchant instrument of an irresistible force, had shaved away many
+of the figures; but more especially the heads and the arms. This
+was only one, but the most striking, specimen of revolutionary
+Vandalism. There were plenty of similar proofs, on a reduced scale.
+In the midst of these traces of recent havoc, there was a pleasure
+mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewing some exceedingly
+pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escaped the
+destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all
+their original freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the
+priests were robing themselves to attend confession; while the
+suppliants, in kneeling attitudes, were expecting them by the side
+of the confessionals. From the church I bent my steps to the
+principal bookseller of the place, whom I found to be an
+intelligent, civil, and extremely good- natured tradesman. But his
+stock was too modern. &quot;Donnez vous la peine de
+monter&quot;--exclaimed he precipitately; begging me to follow him.
+His up- stairs collection was scarcely of a more ancient character
+than that below. There were more copies of <EM>Voltaire</EM> and
+<EM>Rousseau</EM> than I should have supposed he could sell in six
+years--but &quot;on the contrary&quot; (said he) &quot;in six
+months&#39; time, not a single copy will remain unsold!&quot; I
+marvelled and grieved at such intelligence; because the poison was
+not extracted from the nourishment contained in these works. To an
+enquiry about my old typographical friends, <EM>Verard,
+Pigouchet</EM>, and <EM>Eustace</EM>, the worthy bibliopole replied
+&quot;qu&#39;il n&#39;avoit jamais entendu parler de ces
+gens-la!&quot; Again I marvelled; and having no temptation to
+purchase, civilly wished him good evening.</P>
+
+<P>Meanwhile Mr. L. had attained the castle heights, and was lost
+in a sort of extacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer
+walls, and directing your steps towards the summit, you are
+enchanted with a beautiful architectural specimen--in the character
+of a zigzag early Norman arch-- which had originally belonged to a
+small church, recently taken down: The arch alone stands insulated
+... beyond which, a new, and apparently a very handsome, church is
+erecting, chiefly under the care and at the expence of the present
+Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--and in which, not
+many days before our arrival, the remains of one of his children
+had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of this
+arch ... but there was no time ... and my companion was exercising
+his pencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird&#39;s eye of the sweep
+of country to be seen from this elevated situation--through the
+greater part of which, indeed, the diligence from <EM>Verneuil</EM>
+had recently conducted us. I should add, that not a relic of that
+CASTLE, which had once kept the town and the adjacent country in
+awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose a space hardly
+less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which I had yet
+witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, the
+sun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk
+behind the edge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned
+throughout the landscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I
+cannot now say) as I sunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue
+and the lassitude of two sleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I
+could have seen the effect of that glorious sun-set from, the
+heights of Dover. Now and then, as when at school, one feels a
+little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which then possessed me
+was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. The shadows of
+evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, starting
+from my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to
+surprise me) I hastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction
+sought the town and our hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not
+until, from an opposite coach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like
+carriage to convey us with post horses, the next day, to Paris.</P>
+
+<P>Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the
+grand entrée into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little
+after nine-- before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of
+which was surmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the
+phaeton in the rear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our
+baggage properly secured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted
+forward at a smart gallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly
+away with us--and the whip of the postilion made innumerable
+circular flourishes above their heads. The sky was beautifully
+clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantly penetrating,
+south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely to be
+sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and
+general uncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey!
+We felt it sensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place
+of halting, to change horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about
+four leagues from Dreux; and I verily believe we reached it in an
+hour. The route thither is through a flat and uninteresting
+country; except that every feature of landscape (and more
+especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to be
+thrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for
+the flatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is
+a village-like town, containing a population of about 2000
+inhabitants; but much business is done on market days; and of
+<EM>corn</EM>, in particular, I was told that they often sold
+several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguity to Paris may
+account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts of the
+town,--and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows of
+trees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the &quot;stiff and
+stower&quot; remains of the <EM>Castle of Houdan</EM>. It is a very
+interesting relic, and to our eyes appeared of an unusual
+construction. The corner towers are small and circular; and the
+intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructed with a swell,
+or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but have
+forgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty
+feet square. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but
+without success, as the person possessing the key was not to be
+found. I saw enough, however, to convince me that the walls could
+not be less than twelve feet in thickness.</P>
+
+<P>The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh
+postilion seemed to be lost in amazement at the cause of our
+loitering so long at so insignificant a place. The day warmed as we
+pushed on for the far-famed &quot;proud Versailles.&quot; The
+approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the most favourable; although
+we got peeps of the palace, which gave us rather elevated notions
+of its enormous extent. We drove to the <EM>Hôtel de Bourbon</EM>,
+an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very façade of the
+palace, after passing the Hôtel de Ville; and from whence you have
+an undisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I
+bespoke dinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I
+purposely declined visiting the interior--reserving Versailles for
+a future and entire day&#39;s gratification--is doubtless an
+immense fabric--of which the façade just mentioned is composed of
+brick, and assumes any thing but a grand and imposing air: merely
+because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design. I observed
+some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of this
+widely extended chaussée--or route royale--and, upon the whole,
+Versailles appeared to us to be a magnificent and rather
+interesting spot. Two or three rows of trees, some forty or fifty
+generations more ancient than those constituting the boulevards at
+Houdan, formed avenues on each side of this noble road; and all
+appeared life and animation--savouring of the proximity of the
+metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire, were going
+and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were of a
+more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a little
+impatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We
+hired one of these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey
+us to the place of our destination. This appeared to me very
+reasonable; and after being extravagant enough to drink Champagne
+at dinner, to commemorate our near approach to the metropolis, we
+set forward between five and six o&#39;clock, resolving to strain
+our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at every thing we
+saw!--especially as <EM>this</EM> is considered the most favourable
+approach to the capital.</P>
+
+<P>The <EM>Ecole Militaire</EM>, to the left, of which Marshal Ney
+had once the chief command, struck me as a noble establishment. But
+it was on approaching <EM>Sèvre</EM> that all the bustle and
+population, attendant upon the immediate vicinity of a great
+metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--in many of
+which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--three
+upon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches,
+and carriages of every description, among which we discovered a
+great number from our own country--did not fail to occupy our
+unremitting attention. <EM>Sèvre</EM> is a long, rambling, and
+chiefly single-street town; but picturesquely situated, on a slope,
+and ornamented to the left by the windings of the Seine. We were
+downright glad to renew our acquaintance with our old, and
+long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appeared to be sadly
+shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with it before
+the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The new
+nine-arch bridge at Sèvre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in
+miniature. Upon the heights, above it, I learnt that there was a
+beautiful view of the river in the foreground with Paris in the
+distance. We passed over the old bridge, and saw <EM>St. Cloud</EM>
+to the left: which of course interested us as the late residence of
+Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyond the air of a
+large respectable country-gentleman&#39;s mansion in England. We
+pushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great
+city. Of all the desirable places of retreat, whether for its
+elevated situation, or respectable appearance, or commodious
+neighbourhood, nothing struck me more forcibly than the village of
+PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left; some three or four
+English miles from Paris--and having a noble view both of the river
+and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkably healthy;
+and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thither
+to and from Paris.</P>
+
+<P>The dome of the <EM>Pantheon</EM>, and the gilded one of the
+<EM>Hôtel des Invalides</EM>, together with the stunted towers of
+<EM>Notre Dame</EM>, were among the chief objects to the right:
+while the accompaniment of the Seine, afforded a pleasing
+foreground to this architectural picture in the distance. But, my
+friend, I will frankly own to you, that I was disappointed ... upon
+this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the first place, the
+surrounding country is flat; with the exception of <EM>Mount
+Calvary,</EM> to the left, which has nothing to do with the
+metropolitan view from this situation. In the second place, what
+are the <EM>Pantheon</EM> and <EM>Notre Dame</EM> compared with
+<EM>St. Paul&#39;s</EM> and <EM>Westminster Abbey</EM>?--to say
+nothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the
+beautifully undulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood,
+and. Shooter&#39;s Hill--and, on the other side of the water,
+Hampstead, Highgate and Harrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!...
+What lovely vicinities are these compared with that of <EM>Mont
+Martre</EM>? And if you take river scenery into the account, what
+is the <EM>Seine</EM>, in the neighbourhood of Paris, compared with
+the <EM>Thames</EM> in that of London? If the almost impenetrable
+smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I
+beseech you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of
+approach, which shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison
+with that of London, from the descent from <EM>Shooter&#39;s
+Hill</EM>! The most bewitched Frenchified-Englishman, in the
+perfect possession of his eye sight, will not have the temerity to
+institute such a comparison. But as you near the barriers, your
+admiration increases. Having got rid of all background of
+country--as you approach the capital--the foregoing objections
+vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search our luggage.
+They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmed all
+suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and
+one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the <EM>Champs
+Elysées</EM>. As we gained the <EM>Place Louis Quinze</EM>, with
+the <EM>Thuileries</EM> in front, with the <EM>Hôtel des
+Invalides</EM> (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the
+strong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck
+with this combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much
+superior to any similar display on the entrance into our own
+capital.<A name="fnref_174"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_174">174</A> Turning to the left, the <EM>Place Vendome</EM>
+and the <EM>Rue de la Paix</EM>, with the extreme height of the
+houses, and the stone materials of their construction, completed
+our admiration. But the <EM>Boulevards Italiens</EM>--after passing
+the pillars of the proposed church of <EM>Ste. Madelaine</EM>, and
+turning to the right-- helped to prolong our extreme gratification,
+till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you. Doubtless, at
+first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city. A
+particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next
+despatch. I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted
+with the treasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and
+printed Books. THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the
+CURATORS of it have charmed me by their extreme kindness and
+civility.<A name="fnref_175"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_175">175</A></P>
+
+<P class="spaced">END OF VOL. I.</P>
+
+<P>London: Printed by W. Nicol,<BR>
+Cleveland-row, St. James&#39;s.</P>
+
+<H2 class="letter">SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I.</H2>
+
+<H3 class="centered">OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN.</H3>
+
+<P>The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the
+foregoing pages, and its history, as connected with our own country
+in the earlier part of the fifteenth century, is too interesting,
+to require any thing in the shape of apology for the matter which
+the Reader is about to peruse. This &quot;matter&quot; is
+necessarily incidental to the <EM>present</EM> edition of the
+&quot;Tour;&quot; as it is only recently made public. An
+&quot;<EM>Old English Poem</EM>&quot; on our Henry the Fifth&#39;s
+&quot;<EM>Siege of Rouen</EM>&quot; is a theme likely to excite the
+attention of the literary Antiquary on <EM>either</EM> side of the
+Channel.</P>
+
+<P>The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J.J. Conybeare,
+successively Professor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry
+in the University of Oxford, discovered, in the exhaustless
+treasures of the Bodleian Library, a portion of the Old English
+Poem in question: but it was a portion only. In the 21st. vol. of
+the Archæologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of this fortunate
+discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. Frederick
+Madden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. department in the
+British Museum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of
+the portion which was lost: and in the 22d. vol. of the
+<EM>Archæologia</EM>, just published, (pp. 350-398), he has annexed
+an abstract of the remaining fragment, with copious and learned
+notes. This fragment had found its way, in a prose attire, into the
+well-known English MS. Chronicle, called the BRUTE:--usually (but
+most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not however to be found
+in <EM>all</EM> the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr.
+Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. has
+found the poem only in four of them: namely, in two among the
+Harleian MSS. (Nos. 753; 2256--from which <EM>his</EM> transcript
+and collation have been made) in one belonging to Mr. Coke of
+Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the <EM>Cotton</EM>
+Collection:--Galba E. viii. This latter MS. has a very close
+correspondence with the <EM>second</EM> Harl. MS. but is often
+faulty from errors of the Scribe, See <EM>Gentleman&#39;s Magazine,
+May</EM>, 1829.</P>
+
+<P>So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old
+English Poem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production
+of the time of the Siege--namely, A.D. 1418. A word as to its
+intrinsic worth--from the testimony of the Critic most competent to
+appreciate it. &quot;It will be admitted, I believe, (says Mr.
+Madden) by all who will take the trouble to compare the various
+contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen, that in point of
+simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, there is NO
+existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Its
+authenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the
+Author&#39;s having been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review
+the names of those Historians who lived at the same period, we
+shall have abundant reason to rejoice at so valuable an accession
+to our present stock of information on the subject.&quot;
+<EM>Archæologia</EM>, vol. xxii. p. 353. The reader shall be no
+longer detained from a specimen or two of the poem itself, which
+should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic.</P>
+
+<P>&quot;On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent
+by the City of Rouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to
+inform us, that the King caused two tents to be pitched, one for
+the English Commissioners, and the other for the French. On the
+English side were appointed the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of
+Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir Walter Hungerford, and on the
+French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen to meet them. Then
+says the writer,</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&#39;It was a sight of solempnity,<BR>
+ For to behold both party;<BR>
+ To see the rich in their array,<BR>
+ And on the walls the people that lay,<BR>
+ And on our people that were without,<BR>
+ How thick that they walked about;<BR>
+ And the heraudis seemly to seene,<BR>
+ How that they went ay between;<BR>
+ The king&#39;s heraudis and pursuivants,<BR>
+ In coats of arms <EM>amyantis</EM>.<BR>
+ The English a beast, the French a flower,<BR>
+ Of Portyngale both castle and tower,<BR>
+ And other coats of diversity,<BR>
+ As lords bearen in their degree.&#39;</P>
+
+<P>&quot;As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and
+splendour is described the deplorable condition of those
+unfortunate inhabitants who lay starving in the ditches without the
+walls of the City, deprived both of food and clothing. The
+affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was an eye- witness,
+is written with that display of feeling such a scene must naturally
+have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourable
+passages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of
+Elmham or Livius. In the first instance we behold misery literally
+in rags, and hiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the
+other she is ostentatiously paraded before our eyes:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&#39;There men might see a great pity,<BR>
+ A child of two year or three<BR>
+ Go about, and bid his bread,<BR>
+ For Father and mother both lay dead,<BR>
+ And under them the water stood,<BR>
+ And yet they lay crying after food.<BR>
+ Some <EM>storven</EM> to the death,<BR>
+ And some stopped both eyen and breath,<BR>
+ And some crooked in the knees,<BR>
+ And as lean as any trees,<BR>
+ And women holding in their arm<BR>
+ A dead child, and nothing warm,<BR>
+ And children sucking on the pap<BR>
+ Within a dead woman&#39;s lap.&#39;</P>
+
+<P>On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. made his public
+entry into Rouen. His personal appearance is thus described:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&#39;He rode upon a brown steed,<BR>
+ Of black damask was his weed,<BR>
+ A <EM>Peytrelle</EM> of gold full bright<BR>
+ About his neck hung down right,<BR>
+ And a pendant behind him did honge<BR>
+ Unto the earth, it was so long.<BR>
+ And they that never before him did see,<BR>
+ They knew by the cheer which was he.&#39;</P>
+
+<P>&quot;With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry
+was ever distinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where
+he alighted from his charger, and was met by the chaplains of his
+household, who walked before him, chanting <EM>Quis est magnus
+Dominus?</EM> After the celebration of mass, the king repaired to
+the Castle, where he took up his abode. By this termination of a
+siege, which, for its duration and the horrors it produced, is
+perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, the city was
+again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered the shock
+so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&#39;And thus our gracious liege<BR>
+ Made an end of his siege;<BR>
+ And all that have heard this reading,<BR>
+ To his bliss Christ you bring,<BR>
+ That for us died upon a tree,<BR>
+ Amen say we all, <EM>pur charite!</EM>&#39;</P>
+
+<P>The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and
+ordered by Henry to take possession of it the same night. The Duke
+mounts his horse, and rides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or
+Beauvais, attended by a retinue, to carry the commands of his
+sovereign into execution. His Entré, and the truly miserable
+condition of the besieged, together with the imposing appearance of
+Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode<BR>
+ Toke his hors and forth he rode,<BR>
+ To bevesyne<A name="fnref_E"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_E">E</A> that porte so stronge,<BR>
+ That he hadde ley bifore so longe,<BR>
+ To that gate sone he kam,<A name="fnref_F"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_F">F</A><BR>
+ And with hym many a worthy<A name="fnref_G"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_G">G</A> manne.<BR>
+ There was neying of many a stede,<BR>
+ And schynyng of many a gay wede,<BR>
+ There was many a getoun<A name="fnref_H"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_H">H</A> gay,<BR>
+ With mychille<A name="fnref_I"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_I">I</A> and grete aray.<BR>
+ And whanne the gate was openyd there,<BR>
+ And thay weren<A name="fnref_J"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_J">J</A> redy into fare,<BR>
+ Trumpis<A name="fnref_K"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_K">K</A>
+blewgh her bemys<A name="fnref_L"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_L">L</A> of bras,<BR>
+ Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was,<BR>
+ And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte<BR>
+ With her<A name="fnref_M"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_M">M</A>
+voyce that was fulle stowte,<BR>
+ &#39;Seint George! seint George!&#39; thay criden<A class="fnref" href="#fn_N">N</A> on height,<BR>
+ And seide, &#39;welcome oure kynges righte.&#39;<BR>
+ The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite<BR>
+ Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see.<BR>
+ Thay criden<A name="fnref_N"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_N">N</A> alle welcome in fere,<BR>
+ &#39;In siche tyme mote ye entre here,<BR>
+ &#39;Plesyng to God that it may be,<BR>
+ &#39;And to vs pees and vnyte.&#39;<BR>
+ And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe,<BR>
+ It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe.<BR>
+ Mykelle of that folke therynne<BR>
+ Thay weren<A name="fnref_O"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_O">O</A> but verrey bonys and skynne.<BR>
+ With eyen holowgh and<A name="fnref_P"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_P">P</A> nose scharpe,<BR>
+ Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe,<BR>
+ For her colowris was<A name="fnref_Q"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_Q">Q</A> wan as lede,<BR>
+ Not like to lyue but sone ben dede.<BR>
+ Disfigurid pateronys<A name="fnref_R"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_R">R</A> and quaynte,<BR>
+ And as<A name="fnref_S"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_S">S</A> a
+dede kyng thay weren paynte.<BR>
+ There men myght see an<A name="fnref_T"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_T">T</A> exampleyre,<BR>
+ How fode makith the pepulle faire.<A name="fnref_U"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_U">U</A><BR>
+ In euery strete summe lay dede,<BR>
+ And hundriddis krying aftir brede.<BR>
+ And aftir long many a day,<BR>
+ Thay deyde as<A name="fnref_V"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_V">V</A> faste as<A name="fnref_W"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_W">W</A> they myght be lad away.<BR>
+ Into<A name="fnref_X"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_X">X</A> that
+way God hem wisse,<BR>
+ That thay may come to his blisse! amen.<BR>
+ Now<A name="fnref_Y"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_Y">Y</A> wille
+y more spelle,<BR>
+ And of the duke of exestre to<A name="fnref_Z"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_Z">Z</A> telle.<BR>
+ To that Castelle firste he rode,<BR>
+ And sythen<A name="fnref_AA"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AA">AA</A> the Cite alle abrode;<BR>
+ Lengthe and brede he it mette,<BR>
+ And rich baneris he<A name="fnref_AB"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AB">AB</A> vp sette.<BR>
+ Vpon the porte seint Hillare<BR>
+ A Baner of the Trynyte.<BR>
+ And at<A name="fnref_AC"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_AC">AC</A>
+the port Kaux he sette evene<BR>
+ A baner of the quene of heven.<BR>
+ And at<A name="fnref_AD"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_AD">AD</A>
+port martvile he vppyght Of seint George a baner bryght.<BR>
+ He sette vpon the Castelle to<A name="fnref_AE"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_AE">AE</A> stonde<BR>
+ The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond.<BR>
+ And on the Friday in the mornynge<BR>
+ Into that Cite come oure kynge.<BR>
+ And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray,<BR>
+ And vij. abbottis with Crucchis<A name="fnref_AF"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_AF">AF</A> gay;<BR>
+ xlij.<A name="fnref_AG"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_AG">AG</A>
+crossis ther were of Religioune<A name="fnref_AH"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_AH">AH</A>,<BR>
+ And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun,<BR>
+ Agens that prince withoute the toune,<BR>
+ And euery Cros as thay stode<BR>
+ He blessid hem with milde mode,<BR>
+ And holy water with her hande<BR>
+ Thay gaf the prince of oure lande.<BR>
+ And at<A name="fnref_AI"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_AI">AI</A>
+the porte Kaux so wide<BR>
+ He in passid withoute<A name="fnref_AJ"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AJ">AJ</A> pride;<BR>
+ Withoute pipe or bemys blaste,<BR>
+ Our kyng worthyly he in paste.<BR>
+ And as a conquerour in his righte<BR>
+ Thankyng<A name="fnref_AK"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AK">AK</A> euer god almyghte;<BR>
+ And alle the pepulle in that Citie<BR>
+ &#39;Wilcome our<A name="fnref_AL"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AL">AL</A> lorde,&#39; thay seide, &#39;so fre!<BR>
+ &#39;Wilcome into<A name="fnref_AM"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AM">AM</A> thyne owne righte,<BR>
+ &#39;As it is the<A name="fnref_AN"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AN">AN</A> wille of<A name="fnref_AO"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_AO">AO</A> god almyght.&#39;<BR>
+ With that thay kryde alle <EM>&#39;nowelle!</EM>&#39;<BR>
+ Os<A name="fnref_AP"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_AP">AP</A>
+heighe as thay myght yelle.<BR>
+ He rode vpon a browne stede,<BR>
+ Of blak damaske was his wede.<BR>
+ A peytrelle<A name="fnref_AQ"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AQ">AQ</A> of golde fulle bryght<BR>
+ Aboute his necke hynge<A name="fnref_AR"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_AR">AR</A> doun right,<BR>
+ And a pendaunte behynd him dide<A name="fnref_AS"></A><A class=
+"fnref" href="#fn_AS">AS</A> honge<BR>
+ Vnto the erthe, it was so longe,<BR>
+ And thay that neuer before hym dide<A name="fnref_AT"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_AT">AT</A> see,<BR>
+ Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he.<BR>
+ To the mynster dide he fare,<BR>
+ And of his horse he lighte there.<BR>
+ His chapelle<A name="fnref_AU"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AU">AU</A> mette hym at<A name="fnref_AV"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_AV">AV</A> the dore there,<BR>
+ And wente bifore<A name="fnref_AW"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AW">AW</A> hym alle in fere,<BR>
+ And songe a response<A name="fnref_AX"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AX">AX</A> fulle glorivs,<BR>
+ <EM>Quis est magnus dominus</EM>.<BR>
+ Messe he hirde and offrid thoo,<BR>
+ And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo.<BR>
+ That is a place of rialte,<BR>
+ And a paleis of grete beaute.<BR>
+ There he hym<A name="fnref_AY"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AY">AY</A> loggid in the Toune,<BR>
+ With rialle and grete renoune.<BR>
+ And the<A name="fnref_AZ"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_AZ">AZ</A> cite dide faste encrece<BR>
+ Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe.<A name="fnref_BA"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_BA">BA</A><BR>
+ And thus oure gracious liege<BR>
+ Made an ende of his seege.<BR>
+ And alle that<A name="fnref_BB"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_BB">BB</A> haue hirde this redynge<A name="fnref_BC"></A><A
+class="fnref" href="#fn_BC">BC</A><BR>
+ To his<A name="fnref_BD"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_BD">BD</A>
+blisse criste you brynge,<BR>
+ That for vs deide vpon<A name="fnref_BE"></A><A class="fnref"
+href="#fn_BE">BE</A> a tre,<BR>
+ Amen sey<A name="fnref_BF"></A><A class="fnref" href=
+"#fn_BF">BF</A> we alle, pur cherite!</P>
+
+<P><EM>There was many a getoun gay</EM>.] The following particulars
+relative to the <EM>getoun</EM> appear in MS. Harl. 838.
+&quot;Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shal have hys baner
+displeyd in y&#39;e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyght his
+penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys <EM>getoun</EM> or
+standard.&quot; &quot;Item, y&#39;e meyst lawfully fle fro y&#39;e
+standard and <EM>getoun</EM>, but not fro y&#39;e baner ne
+penon.&quot;. &quot;Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp
+or in y&#39;e fore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a
+standard as welle as a <EM>getoun</EM>: a <EM>getoun</EM> shal berr
+y&#39;e length of ij yardes, a standard of iii or 4 yardes, and a
+stremer of xii. xx. xl. or lx. yardes longe.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. f.
+431. as quoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. vol. i. N.S.
+The former of these MSS. states: Euery standard and
+<EM>Guydhome</EM> [whence the etymology of the word is obvious] to
+have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to be slitte at the
+ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with the posey,
+worde, and devise of the owner.&quot; It adds, that &quot;a
+guydhome must be two yardes and a halfe, or three yardes
+longe.&quot; This rule may sometimes have been neglected, at least
+by artists, for in a bill of expences for the Earl of Warwick,
+dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. p. 327.) we find
+the following entry; &quot;Item, a <EM>gyton</EM> for the shippe of
+viij. yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng
+and workmanship, ijs.&quot; The Grant of a <EM>guydon</EM> made in
+1491 to Hugh Vaughan, is preserved in the College of Arms. It
+contains his crest placed longitudinally. <EM>Retrospective Review,
+New Series</EM>, vol. i. p. 511.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_E"></A><A href="#fnref_E">E</A>
+<EM>bewesyns</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_F"></A><A href="#fnref_F">F</A>
+<EM>came</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_G"></A><A href="#fnref_G">G</A>
+<EM>worthy</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_H"></A><A href="#fnref_H">H</A> A
+species of banner or streamer. See Note.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_I"></A><A href="#fnref_I">I</A>
+<EM>noble</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_J"></A><A href="#fnref_J">J</A>
+<EM>were</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_K"></A><A href="#fnref_K">K</A>
+Trumpeters.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_L"></A><A href="#fnref_L">L</A>
+Trumpets.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_M"></A><A href="#fnref_M">M</A>
+<EM>that</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_N"></A><A href="#fnref_N">N</A>
+cryed.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_O"></A><A href="#fnref_O">O</A>
+<EM>were</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_P"></A><A href="#fnref_P">P</A>
+<EM>with nose</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_Q"></A><A href="#fnref_Q">Q</A>
+<EM>were</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_R"></A><A href="#fnref_R">R</A>
+<EM>patrons</EM>.--Workmens&#39; models or figures.
+<EM>Patrone</EM>, forme to werke by. <EM>Prompt. Parvul</EM>. MS.
+Harl. 221. There is probably here an allusion to the waxen or
+wooden effigies placed on the hearse of distinguished
+personages.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_S"></A><A href="#fnref_S">S</A>
+<EM>as dede thyng they were peynte</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_T"></A><A href="#fnref_T">T</A>
+<EM>in</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_U"></A><A href="#fnref_U">U</A>
+<EM>to fare</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_V"></A><A href="#fnref_V">V</A> as
+<EM>deest</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_W"></A><A href="#fnref_W">W</A>
+<EM>as cartes led awey</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_X"></A><A href="#fnref_X">X</A>
+<EM>Vnto</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_Y"></A><A href="#fnref_Y">Y</A> In
+MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter
+introduced.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_Z"></A><A href="#fnref_Z">Z</A>
+<EM>to</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AA"></A><A href="#fnref_AA">AA</A>
+<EM>sithe</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AB"></A><A href="#fnref_AB">AB</A>
+<EM>vp he</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AC"></A><A href="#fnref_AC">AC</A>
+<EM>atte porte kauxoz</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AD"></A><A href="#fnref_AD">AD</A>
+<EM>atte</EM> porte.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AE"></A><A href="#fnref_AE">AE</A>
+<EM>that stounde</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AF"></A><A href="#fnref_AF">AF</A>
+Crosses.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AG"></A><A href="#fnref_AG">AG</A>
+xliiij.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AH"></A><A href="#fnref_AH">AH</A>
+<EM>religiouns</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AI"></A><A href="#fnref_AI">AI</A>
+<EM>atte porte hauxoz</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AJ"></A><A href="#fnref_AJ">AJ</A>
+The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are
+omitted.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AK"></A><A href="#fnref_AK">AK</A>
+<EM>Thanked</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AL"></A><A href="#fnref_AL">AL</A>
+<EM>they seyde our lord so free</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AM"></A><A href="#fnref_AM">AM</A>
+<EM>vnto</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AN"></A><A href="#fnref_AN">AN</A>
+<EM>the</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AO"></A><A href="#fnref_AO">AO</A>
+<EM>to</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AP"></A><A href="#fnref_AP">AP</A>
+<EM>As</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AQ"></A><A href="#fnref_AQ">AQ</A>
+Poitrell, breast plate.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AR"></A><A href="#fnref_AR">AR</A>
+<EM>hangyng</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AS"></A><A href="#fnref_AS">AS</A>
+<EM>dide</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AT"></A><A href="#fnref_AT">AT</A>
+<EM>the</EM> chere.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AU"></A><A href="#fnref_AU">AU</A>
+The chaplains of his household. Lat. <EM>capella</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AV"></A><A href="#fnref_AV">AV</A>
+<EM>atte</EM> dore, <EM>there</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AW"></A><A href="#fnref_AW">AW</A>
+<EM>afore</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AX"></A><A href="#fnref_AX">AX</A>
+<EM>respon.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AY"></A><A href="#fnref_AY">AY</A>
+<EM>logged hym.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_AZ"></A><A href="#fnref_AZ">AZ</A>
+<EM>his cite fast encrest</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BA"></A><A href="#fnref_BA">BA</A>
+<EM>beste</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BB"></A><A href="#fnref_BB">BB</A>
+<EM>that</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BC"></A><A href="#fnref_BC">BC</A>
+<EM>tydyng</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BD"></A><A href="#fnref_BD">BD</A>
+<EM>his</EM> deest.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BE"></A><A href="#fnref_BE">BE</A>
+on.</P>
+
+<P class="footnote"><A name="fn_BF"></A><A href="#fnref_BF">BF</A>
+<EM>seyde all for charitee</EM>.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p.
+127-8.</H3>
+
+<P>This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the
+possession of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin&#39;s Lane. When
+the note relating to it was written, I could, not place my hand
+upon a Brochure (in my possession) published at Rouen in 1823,<A
+name="fnref_176"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_176">176</A>
+containing an archaeological description of this Statue by M.
+Revet, and a scientific account of its component parts, by M.
+Houton La Billardière, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. The former
+embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of the
+Lower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated
+state, is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great
+drawback to the publication--which, in its details, appears to be
+ingenious, learned, and satisfactory. The highest praise is given
+to the Statue, as a work of art of the second century.<A name=
+"fnref_177"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_177">177</A> Its
+<EM>identity</EM> seems to be yet a subject of disputation:--but M.
+Revet considers it as &quot;the representation of some idolatrous
+divinity.&quot; The opinion of its being a representation of
+Bacchus, or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be
+regulated by a discovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the
+vicinity of the Statue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating
+to explanations of the pieces of the Statue, close this interesting
+performance.</P>
+
+<H3 class="letter">BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.</H3>
+
+<H3>INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,
+DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO.</H3>
+
+<TABLE border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" summary=
+"BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.">
+<TR>
+<TD>&nbsp;</TD>
+<TD>Vol</TD>
+<TD>Page</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Æneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus</EM>, no date, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>315</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Æsopus, Gr</EM>. 4to. Edit. prin.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>308</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Lat</EM>. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>141</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ital</EM>. 1485, <EM>Tuppi</EM>, in the same library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ital</EM>. 1491 and 1492, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>308</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Hispan</EM>. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Germ. Without Date, &amp;c</EM>., in the same
+library</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard</EM>, 1492,
+folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>134</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Albert Durer</EM>; original drawings of, in a Book of
+Prayers, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>132</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha</EM>, 1500,
+folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>101</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aldine Classics</EM>, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Library of St. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>177</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Alexandrus Gallus</EM>, vulgo <EM>de Villa Dei Doctrinale
+de Spira,</EM> folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>315</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux</EM>--a chap book,
+extracts from,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>73</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Anti-Christ--block book</EM>--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ambrosii Hexameron</EM>, 1472, folio--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>99</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>430</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Amours, chasse et départ, Verard</EM>, 1509, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>132</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Anthologia Græca</EM>, 1498, 4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>176</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1503, <EM>Aldus</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica</EM>, 1477,
+<EM>Koberger</EM>, folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>407</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Apocalypse, block book</EM>, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Apostles Creed</EM>, in German, <EM>block book</EM>, with
+fac simile--in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>137</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt</EM>, 1478, folio--in the library of
+the Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>236</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Apuleius</EM>, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>128</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>397</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>308</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1472, <EM>Jenson</EM>, folio--in the last mentioned
+library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>308</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundæ, Schoeffher</EM>, 1467,
+folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>316</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher</EM>. 1469, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>316</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>In Evang. Matt, et Marc</EM>. 1470, <EM>S. and
+Pannartz</EM>, folio--in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>316</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin</EM>--in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>141</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Arbre des Batailles, Verard</EM>, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>132</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aretinus de Bella Gothico</EM>, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus</EM>, 1495, 6 vols. Two copies
+UPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>136</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--</EM>remarkably
+splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>138</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ars Memorandi</EM>, &amp;c.--<EM>block book</EM>: five
+copies of, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>135</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Göttwic Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>428</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ars Moriendi, Germanicé--4to.--</EM>in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Lat. block book</EM>--two editions, in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>136</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Art de bien Mourir, Verard</EM>, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>133</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton</EM>, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>124</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>ARTUS LE ROY; MS. xiith century,--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>94</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>94</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Artaxani Summa</EM>, (1469) folio--in the Public Library at
+Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>232</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei</EM>, 1467, folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>113</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>173</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>301</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>397</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Sweynheym and Pannartz</EM>, 1470, folio, in the
+Public Library at Vire,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>297</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei</EM>, 1467, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>221</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Schoeffher,</EM> 1473; folio--in the Library of the
+Monastery of Chremsminster,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>221</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>301</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Confessionum Libri XIII</EM>. 1475. 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>301</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>de singularitate Clericorum</EM>, 1467, 4to. in the
+King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>40</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. xvth century--formerly in the
+library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>36</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Yppon. de Cons. Evang</EM>. 1473, folio--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>101</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aulus Gellius</EM>, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>127</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>308</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Aurbach&#39;s Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468,
+Printed by Gunther Zeiner. <EM>Pub. Lib. Augsbourg</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>100</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ausonius</EM>, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>128</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1517, Svo. Grolier&#39;s copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Aymon, les quatre filz</EM>, 1583, 4to.--in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>163</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">B.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">BALLADS;</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bon Jour, Bon Soir</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>132</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>--<EM>Toujours</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>&nbsp;</TD>
+<TD>389</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>various, from the <EM>Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>&nbsp;</TD>
+<TD>292-293-294</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Vive Le Roi, Vive L&#39;Amour</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>324</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>le Baiser d&#39;Adieu</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>343</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>L&#39;Image de la Vie</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>344</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bartholi Lectura de Spira</EM>, 1471. Folio. In the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>316</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par,
+&amp;c.</EM> 1818. 8vo.</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>393</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bella (La) Mono</EM>, 1474, 4to.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>321</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist.</EM> 1473, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Berlinghieri, Geografia</EM>, folio--in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene&#39;s copy) at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>321</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons</EM>, no date, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>165</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bessarionis Epistolæ</EM>, (1469) folio--in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BIBLIA LATINA, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald--in the
+Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate engraving of that
+Monarch&#39;s portrait,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>65</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>67</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ XVth century, of the <EM>Emperor
+Wenceslaus</EM>--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>290</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>69</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Polyglotta Complut.</EM> 1516, &amp;c. in the Public
+Library at Coutances,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>270</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>149</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards that
+of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ <EM>Walton</EM>; royal copy, in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ with the original dedication, in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ ------ in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,
+in Austria,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>237</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay</EM>: in the Library of the Lycée
+at Bayeux</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>245</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>------ <EM>Hebraica, edit. Soncini</EM>, 1488, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>303</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant</EM>, 1753, in a Private
+Collection near Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>235</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Hahn</EM>, 1806, in the Library of the Monastery of
+Closterneuburg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>396</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Græca, Aldus</EM>, 1518, folio--Francis Ist&#39;s
+copy, upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, upon thick paper, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>157</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- the usual copy, in the King&#39;s Private Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Latina</EM>, (<EM>edit. Maz. 1455</EM>) folio, 2
+vols., two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>106</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>190</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>139</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>302</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Pfister</EM>, (1461) folio, 3 vols. in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>108</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>302</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Fust und Schoeffher</EM>, 1462: folio--three copies,
+(two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>154</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>173</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>190</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>302</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Latina Mentelin</EM>--in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>404</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Latino Mentelin</EM>, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>302</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Eggesteyn</EM>, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>404</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- (ms. date, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>141</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Sweynheym and Pannartz</EM>, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>302</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>55</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1475, folio, <EM>Frisner</EM>, &amp;c.--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>96</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- (1475 <EM>edit. Gering</EM>) imperfect copy in the Chapter
+Library at Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>244</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Hailbrun</EM>, 1476, folio: two copies, of which one
+is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>303</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>405</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--and a
+second copy upon paper,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>303</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Froben</EM>, 1495, 8vo. in the Public Library at
+Vire,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>298</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BIBLIA GERMANICA, MS. of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>290</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Germanica, Mentelin</EM>, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>108</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>403</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>21</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- two copies in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>140</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>180</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Germanica, Mentelin</EM>, folio, in the Library at
+Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>397</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Ratisbon,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>418</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>431</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>supposed first edition</EM>, in the Public Library at
+Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>180</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>supposed first edition</EM>, folio, in the Library of
+Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>397</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Germanica, Sorg. Augsbourg</EM>, 1477, folio, in the
+Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>236</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Peypus</EM>, 1524, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Italica; Kalend. Augusti</EM>, 1471--folio--in the
+Mazarine Library, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>191</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- imperfect copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Kalend. Octobris</EM>, 1471, folio--in the Library of
+Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>173</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>303</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bibl. Hist, Venet.</EM> 1492, folio--copy purchased of M.
+Fischeim at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>154</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Bohemica</EM>, 1488, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>109</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Polonica</EM>, 1563, folio--in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>109</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>96</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>304</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1599; folio, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>174</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Biblia Hungarica</EM>, 1565, folio--incomplete, in the
+King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Sclavonica</EM>, 1581, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>22</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- 1587, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>109</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bible, La Sainte</EM>, 1669, folio; large paper copy in the
+Public Library of Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BIBLIA-HISTORICA, <EM>MS. versibus germanicis</EM>, Sec.
+XIV.--in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>29</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aurea. Lat. I. Zeiner</EM>, 1474, folio--in the
+Library of Chremsminster Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>222</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Pauperum, block book</EM>: in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>108</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- <EM>block book</EM>, German,--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- <EM>Latine</EM>, first edition, in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>27</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- <EM>block book</EM>--one German, and two Latin
+editions, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>136</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BIOGRAPHY, ROYAL, OF FRANCE;--XVIth century--magnificent MS. in
+the Royal Library at Paris.</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>87</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BLAZONRY OF ARMS, BOOK OF--XIVth century, with facsimile
+portrait of <EM>Leopold de Sempach</EM> in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>299</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Block books</EM>; at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>134</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BOCACE, DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES, MS. XVth century,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>84</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- two more MSS. of the same work, in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>85</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Boccace Ruines des-Nobles Hommes</EM>, &amp;c. 1476,
+<EM>Colard Mansion</EM>, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>126</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Boccaccio Il Decamerone</EM>, 1471, <EM>Valdarfer</EM>,
+folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>125</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- 1472, <EM>A. de Michaelibus</EM>, folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>126</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Boccaccio II Decamerone</EM>, in the Public Library at
+Nuremberg, <EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>431</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1476, <EM>Zarotus</EM>, folio, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>321</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Deo Gracias, Sine Anno: forsan edit. prin</EM>. in the
+Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>143</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Nimphale</EM>, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Boetius, F. Johannes</EM>, 1474, 4to. in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve. at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>176</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bonifacii Papæ Libr. Decret</EM>, 1465, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Mölk Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>252</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>430</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Bonnie vie, ou Madenie, Chambery</EM>, 1485, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>326</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Book of the Gospels of the Emperor Lotharius, Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>67</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BREVIAIRE DE BELLEVILLE, MS. xivth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>72</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, MS. xvth century--in the
+Royal Library at Paris--with copper plate fac-simile of a portion
+of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>73</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BREVIARE DE M. DE MONMORENCY, MS. xvth century--in the Emperor
+of Austria&#39;s private collection at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>386</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BREVIARIUM ECCL. Liss. MS.; in the Public Library at Caen</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>209</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>BRUT D&#39;ANGLETERE, MS. xivth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>300</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Budæi Comment, in Ling. Gr.</EM> 1529, folio--Francis 1st.
+copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>140</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Burtrio, Anthon. de, Adam Rot</EM>, 1472, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>399</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">C.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cæsar</EM>, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>128</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cæsar</EM>, 1460, folio, in the Mazarine Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>192</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1471. <EM>Jenson</EM>, in the library of Göttwic
+Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>430</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1472. <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot</EM>.--1472. Folio, in the
+library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>399</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>CALENDARIUM, MS., xvith century in the Public Library at
+Munich</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>128</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- <EM>Regiomontani, block book</EM> in the Public
+Library at Munich</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>138</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cantica Canticorum, Edit. Prin</EM>. three copies in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>138</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Castille et Artus d&#39;Algarbe,</EM> 1587-4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>160</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Catéchisme à l&#39;usage des grandes filles pour êtres
+mariés</EM> </TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>89</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Caterina da Bologna</EM>, no Date. 4to. in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>da Sienna</EM>, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>322</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>de Senis</EM>, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>149</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Catholicon</EM>, 1460, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>114</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1460, folio, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>143</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>G, Zeiner,</EM> 1469, UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>143</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>221</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius</EM>, 1472, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>128</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius</EM>, in the Mazarine
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>193</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>409</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Caxton, books printed by</EM>, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>102</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Celestina Commedia de, Anvers</EM>, 18mo., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>162</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chaucer&#39;s Book of Fame, Caxton</EM>, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>CHESS, GAME OF, <EM>metrical German version of</EM>, MS., sec.
+xv., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>154</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chevalier Delibre</EM>, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>326</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>CHEVALIER AU LION, MS., 1470, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii.</TD>
+<TD>33</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chivalry</EM>; see <EM>Tournaments</EM>.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chrétien de Mechel</EM>, Cat. des Tableaux de la Galerie
+imp. et roy. de Vienne, 1781, 8vo.,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>371</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Foresii, Lat.</EM> 1474, folio, <EM>printed by
+Gotz</EM>, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>405</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Hungariæ</EM>, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library at
+Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>99</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chronicon Gottwicense</EM>, 1732, folio, 2 vols., some
+account of this rare and valuable work,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>436</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- referred to,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>271</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Chrysostomi Comment., Gr.</EM> 1529, folio, copy of Diane
+de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>213</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cicero, de Officiis</EM> 1465, 4to., two copies UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1466, 4to., upon paper, in the Mazarine Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>192</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>309</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- (<EM>Aldus</EM>), 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cicero, Epistolæ ad Familiares</EM>, 1467, Cardinal
+Bessarion&#39;s copy in the Imperial Library, at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1469, <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, folio, in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1469, <EM>S: and Pannartz</EM>, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>98</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1469, <EM>I. de Spira</EM>, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1502, Aldus, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession of M.
+Renouard, bookseller,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>222</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cicero, de Oratore, Monast. Soubiac.</EM>, folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>173</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, folio, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>408</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han</EM>, folio, in the
+Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>De Natura Deorum, V. de Spira.</EM> 1471, folio, in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>192</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Rhetorica Vetus, Jenson</EM>, 1470, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>175</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Orationes, S. and Pannartz</EM>, 1471, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Valdarfer</EM>, 1471, folio, UPON VELLUM, (wanting one
+leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>141</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1519, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 8vo, UPON VELLUM, first volume only,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- perfect copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of St.
+Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>177</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Opera Omnia</EM>, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>176</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>310</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1534, <EM>Giunta</EM>, folio, singular copy in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>152</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cid el Cavalero</EM>, 1627, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris: bound with <EM>Seys Romances del Cid Ruy Diaz de
+Bevar</EM>, 1627, 4to.</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>161</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>CITÉ DE DIEU, MS., in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>82</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cité des Dames, (Verard)</EM> folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>327</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Codex Ebnerianus</EM>, referred to</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>447</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Compendium Morale</EM>, folio, UPON VELLUM, unique copy,
+late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>443</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>COSTENTIN DU, MS., in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>209</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>COUTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in the
+Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>210</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Coutumes Anciennes</EM>, 1672, 12mo. at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Cronica del Cid. Seville.</EM> 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>327</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Cronique de France, 1493, <EM>Verard</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>130</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>de Florimont</EM>, 1529, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>164</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>de Cleriadus</EM>, 1529, 4to.,--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>166</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">D.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Daigremont et Vivian</EM>, 1538, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>166</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Dante Numeister</EM>, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>193</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>322</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Petrus Adam</EM>, 1472, folio, in the Library of Ste.
+Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>176</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Neapoli, Tuppi,</EM> folio, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>25</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Milan</EM>, 1478, with, the comments of G. Tuzago,
+folio, in the same collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>25</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1481, folio, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates, in
+the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>144</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1481, folio, with xx copper-plates, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>323</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Decor Puellarum, Jenson</EM>, 1461, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>323</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Defensio Immac. Concept. B.V.M</EM>. 1470, <EM>block
+book</EM>, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>139</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Delphin Classics</EM>, fine set of, in the library of
+Chremsminster Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>222</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Der Veis Ritter</EM>, 1514, folio, unique copy, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>183</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Dion Cassius</EM>, 1548, Gr. folio, edit. prin., Diane de
+Poictiers&#39; copy, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>152</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Dio Chrysostom. de Regno, Valdarfer</EM>, 4to. UPON VELLUM,
+in the Emperor&#39;s private collection at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>388</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>DIOSCORIDES, GRÆCE, MS., VIth century, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>296</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>DIVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the Public Library
+at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>209</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons</EM>, 4to. in the Library
+of the Arsenal,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>167</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Durandi Rationale</EM>, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>108</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Imperial Library, Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Durandi Rationale</EM>, 1459, folio, in the Public Library
+at Nuremberg, <EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>430</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1474, <EM>I. Zeiner</EM>, folio, in the Library of
+Chremsminster Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>222</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">E.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>ECHECS AMOREUX. MS. folio--with copper-plate facsimile in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>83</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Echec Jeu de, (Verard)</EM> no date--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>132</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ein nuizlich büchlin, Augs</EM>., 1498, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>327</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Erasmus expurgatus iuxta cens. Acad. Lovan</EM>. 1579,
+folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See <EM>Testament.
+Novum,</EM> 1516.</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>102</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>EVANGELIA QUATUOR, Lat. MS. VIth century, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>64</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- VIIIth century, in the Library at Chremsminster
+Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>224</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- IXth century--in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>123</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- XIth century, in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>124</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- Xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>179</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- XIth century--in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>27</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- XIVth century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>291</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS, MS. Lat. XIth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>71</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Evangelia cum Epistolis: Ital</EM>. folio--in the Library
+of Göttwic Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>428</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Evangelistarium, of Charlemagne, MS. folio, in the Private
+Library of the King, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>199</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Euclides</EM>, 1482, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>139</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- four varying copies of, in the Public Library at
+Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>143</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- Ratdolt. 1485, in the Library of the Monastery of St.
+Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>236</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Euripides, Gr</EM>., 1503, <EM>Aldus</EM>--UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Eustathius in Homerum</EM>, 1542--folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>138</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the same collection,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in the Public Library
+at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Eutropius</EM>, 1471, <EM>Laver</EM>, folio--in the
+King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Exhortation against the Turks</EM> (1472) in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>136</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">F.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fait de la Guerre C. Mansion</EM>, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>127</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fazio Dita Mundi</EM>, 1474, folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>323</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ficheti Rhetorica--Gering</EM>--4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fiorio e Biancifiore, Bologna</EM>, 1480, folio--in the
+Library of the Arsenal, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>161</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fierbras</EM>, 1486, folio--Prince Eugene&#39;s copy, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>327</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fortalitium Fidei</EM>--folio--no date--in the Public
+Library, at Munich: curious printed advertisement in this
+copy,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Frezzi Il Quadriregio</EM>, 1481, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>323</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Fulgosii Anteros</EM>--1496--folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>323</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>FUNERAILES DES REINES DE FRANCE, MS. folio--in the
+Emperor&#39;s Private Collection at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>387</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">G.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Galenus, Gr</EM>. 1525, folio. <EM>Aldus</EM>--large paper,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Galien et Jaqueline</EM>, 1525, folio--in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>163</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gallia Christiana</EM>, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library
+at Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>244</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Games of Chess, Caxton</EM>, folio, 2d. edit.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>GENESIS--MS. of the <EM>ivth century--fragments of Chapters
+of</EM>, account of--with fac-simile Illuminations, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>289</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gerard Comte de Nevers</EM>, 1526, 4to.--in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>164</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Geyler, Navic. Fat.</EM> 1511, 4to.--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>102</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gloria Mulierum Jenson</EM>, 4to.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>324</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton</EM>, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>333</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gospels</EM>, folio--MS. xiiith century--in the
+Emperor&#39;s Private Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>386</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Grammatica Rythmica</EM>, 1466, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>114</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher</EM>, 1472, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Guillaume de Palerne</EM>, 1552, 4to, in the Library of the
+Arsenal: another edition, 1634, 4to.,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>166</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Guy de Warwick</EM>, no date, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>159</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Gyron Le Courtoys</EM>, no date, <EM>Verard</EM>, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>130</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">H.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Hartlieb&#39;s Chiromancy, block book</EM>, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>115</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Helayne La Belle</EM>, 1528, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>166</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aulide</EM>, Gr. et Lat. 1507, UPON
+VELLUM, 8vo.</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Hector de Troye, Arnoullet</EM>, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>167</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Heures, printed by Vostre</EM>, fine copy of, in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>210</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Herodotus, Gr</EM>. 1502, <EM>Aldus</EM>, folio, large
+paper copy in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>150</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HISTORIA B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., folio, xvth century, in the Public
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>76</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>block book</EM>, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>116</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Historiæ Augusta Scriptores</EM>, 1475, folio, <EM>P. de
+Lavdgna</EM>, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>408</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1521, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>147</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>History of Bohemia</EM>, <EM>by Pope Pius II</EM>, 1475, in
+the Public Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>99</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HISTOIRE ROMAINE, MS, xvth century; folio, 3 vols. in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>87</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Homeri Opera, Gr.</EM>, 1488, folio, UNCUT, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>129</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>311</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>432</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>No date</EM>, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>145</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>177</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1808, <EM>Bodoni</EM>, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>129</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Batrachomyomachia</EM>, <EM>Gr.</EM> 4to., edit. prin.
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>311</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HORÆ B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., 8vo., in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>74</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- folio, belonging to ANN OF BRITANNY, with copper plate
+engraving of her portrait therefrom, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>78</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- belonging to Pope Paul III. in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>80</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- MS., XVth century, in the Royal Private Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>37</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 8vo., in the Emperor&#39;s private collection at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>386</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- STI. LUDOVICI, MS., XIIIth century, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>157</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Gr.</EM> 1497, 12mo. <EM>printed by Aldus</EM>, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>103 -147</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- purchase of a copy from Mr. Stöger, at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HORATIUS, M. S., XIIth century in the Mölk Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>258</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- Edit. Prin. 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>96</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Venet</EM>. 1494, 4to., purchased of Mr. Fischeim, at
+Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>154</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1501, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>143</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Horloge de Sapience, Verard</EM>, 1493, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>131</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HORTUS DELICIARUM, MS., XIIth century, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>401</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>HORTULUS ANIMÆ, MS., XVth century, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>294</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1498, 12mo., in the King&#39;s Private Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>38</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Rosarum, &amp;c</EM>., 1499, 8vo., in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>101</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Huet, Demonstrat. Evang.</EM> 1690, (1679?) folio, unique
+copy in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Huon de Bourdeaux</EM>, four editions of, in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>163</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">I.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Isocrates, Gr., Aldus</EM>, 1534, folio, large paper copy
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- Printed at Milan, 1493, folio,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>149</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton</EM>, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>103</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>same edition</EM>, in the Library of the Arsenal at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>155</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Jason, printed by Caxton</EM>, in the Imp. Lib. at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Iehan de Saintré, Bonfons</EM>, no date, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>165</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Paris, Bonfons</EM>, no date, 4to., in the same
+collection,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>165</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>JEROME, ST., VIE, MORT, ET MIRACLES DE, MS., XVth century, in
+the Public Library of Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>31</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ieronimi Epistolce</EM>, 1468, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>304</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1470, <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, folio, in the Library of
+Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>431</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1470, <EM>Schoeffher</EM>, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>406</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>431</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Parmæ</EM>, 1480, folio, in the Public Library at
+Augsbourg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>98</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Josephus, Lat.</EM> 1480, folio, in the Library of the
+Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>236</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Gallicè</EM>, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date</EM>, 4to., in
+the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>166</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Jouvencel le</EM>, 1497, <EM>Verard</EM>, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Juvenalis</EM>, folio, <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, edit. prin. in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>409</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ulric. Han. typ. grand</EM>, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>311</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>--- <EM>I. de Fivizano</EM>, folio, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>311</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">L.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Lactantii Institutiones</EM>, 1465, folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>112</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>172</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>305</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1470, <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, folio, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>192</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Rostoch</EM>, 1476, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>305</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>LANCELOT DU LAC, MS., XIVth century, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>88</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- another MS. of about the same period, in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>89</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- another MS. in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>89</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1488, <EM>Verard</EM>, folio, in the Imperial Library
+(Prince Eugene&#39;s copy) at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1494, <EM>Verard</EM>, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>130</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1496, <EM>Verard,</EM> folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Lascaris Gram. Græc.</EM> 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>127</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>LEGES BAVARICÆ, MS., XIIIth century, in the Public Library at
+Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>179</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson</EM>, 1476,
+folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>191</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>324</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1475, <EM>Gering</EM>, folio, in the Public Library at
+Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Les Deux Amans, Verard</EM>, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>LIBER GENERATIONS IES. XTI. MS. VIIth century: in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>70</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Liber Modorum significandi</EM>, 1480, <EM>St.
+Albans</EM>,--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>125</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Liber Moralisat. Bibl.</EM> 1474, Ulm, folio--copy
+purchased of M. Fischeim, at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>154</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>LIBER PRECUM, <EM>cum not. et cant.</EM> MS. <EM>pervet.</EM>
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>71</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- MS. xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>131</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis--block books</EM>--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>331</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Life of Christ, block book</EM>--in the Public Library at
+Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>134</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Littleton&#39;s Tenures, Lettou</EM>, &amp;c. folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>333</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>LIVIUS, MS. XVth century--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>298</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1469, folio,--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>122</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1470, <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>122</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>122</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>397</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1472, <EM>S. and Pann.</EM>, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>123</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Lombardi Petri Sentent. (Eggesteyn)</EM>, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>399</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Lucanus</EM>, 1469, folio--in the Public Library at
+Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1475, folio, cum comment. Omniboni--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Luciani Opera</EM>, Gr. 1496, folio--fine copy, in the
+possession of M. Renouard, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>230</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1503, <EM>Aldus</EM>, folio--large paper copy, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Opusc. Quæd. Lat.</EM> 1494--4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>311</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Lucretius</EM>, 1486, folio--in the King&#39;s Private
+Collection at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1515, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, (supposed to be
+unique) in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Luctus Christianorum, Jenson</EM>, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>324</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ludolphus Vita Christi (Eggesteyn)</EM>, 1474, folio, in
+the Public Library at Nancy,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>363</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>De Terra Sancta</EM>, &amp;c. 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">M.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mabrian</EM>, 1625, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>163</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Maguelone, La Belle</EM>, 1492, <EM>Trepperel</EM>,
+4to.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>328</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Maius, de propriet. prisc. verb.</EM> 1477. folio--<EM>B.
+de Colonia</EM>--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>407</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mammotrectus, Schoeffher</EM>, 1470--folio--UPON VELLUM, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>317</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Closterneuburg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>H. de Helie</EM>, 1470, folio--in the Public Library
+at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>MANDEVILLE, MS. <EM>German</EM>--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>32</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Manilius</EM>, 1474, folio,--in the King&#39;s Private
+Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Marco Polo, Germ.</EM> 1477, folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>329</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Marsilius Ficinus: In Dionysium Areopagitam</EM>, no Date,
+folio, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>176</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Martialis</EM>, 1475, folio--in the Library of a Capuchin
+Monastery, near Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>403</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1502, 8vo. two copies UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>MAYNI IASONIS EPITALAMION, MS. 4to.--in the Emperor&#39;s
+Private Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>387</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mayster of Sentence, Caxton</EM>, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Meinart, St. Life of, block book</EM>: in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>137</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Melusina, Historie von der, Germ.</EM> no date, folio, in
+the King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Melusine, P. Le Noir</EM>, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>167</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles
+Lettres &amp;c. at Rouen</EM>, vol. i. page 49, of a
+<EM>similar</EM> Society at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>185</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di</EM>, 1533,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>159</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Meurin Fils d&#39;Oger, Paris, Bonfons</EM>, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>167</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Milles et Amys, Verard</EM>, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>131</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Rouen</EM>, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal at
+ditto,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>162</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mirabilia Urbis Romae, block book</EM>,--in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>137</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>MISSALE, MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>30</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- XVth century, two in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>31</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- of Charles the Bold, XVth century--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna, with fac-simile,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>292</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- XVth century,--in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>129</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 8vo.--belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>180</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Herbipolense</EM> (1479), folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>306</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Venet.</EM> 1488, folio,--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Emperor&#39;s Private Collection at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>388</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Pro. Patav. Eccl. Ritu</EM>, 1494, folio, in the
+Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>403</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Mozarabicum</EM>, 1500, folio--with the Breviary 1502,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>156</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>178</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>305</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Parisiense</EM>, 1522, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>156</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Missal of Henry IV.</EM> XVIth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>81</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Missa Defunctorum, Viennæ</EM>, 1499, folio, in the Library
+of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>403</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Montaigne&#39;s Essays</EM>, 1635, folio, large paper, in
+the Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>212</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Monte Sancto di Dio</EM>, 1477, folio,--in the Royal
+Library, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>134</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Monte Sancto di Dio</EM>, 1477, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>324</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Moreri des Normans; par I.A. Guiat</EM>, MS. in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>209</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Morgant le Géant</EM>, 1650, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>164</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mori Thomæ Opera, edit. Lovan.</EM> 1566, folio, in the
+Library of the Lycée at Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>245</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Munsteri Cosmographia</EM>, 1556, folio, copy of, belonging
+to D. de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>214</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Mureti Disticha</EM>, Lat. and Fr. <EM>chap book</EM>, at
+Vire,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>286</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">N.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Nanceidos Liber</EM>, 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. notes
+of Bochart, in the Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>212</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- two copies of, one upon large paper, in the Public Library
+at Nancy,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>362</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- one, UPON VELLUM, in the possession of Messrs. Payne and
+Foss,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>362</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Nef des Folz du Monde</EM>, Verard, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>133</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- Printed by the same, UPON VELLUM, in the same
+library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>133</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Nef des Dames, Arnollet, à Lyon</EM>, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>160</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Niger P., contra perfidos Judæos</EM>, 1475, folio--in the
+King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Nonius Marcellus</EM>, 1471, folio,--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>318</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Nova Statuta, Machlinia</EM>, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>125</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Novelas, par de Maria Zayas</EM>, 1637, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>160</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Amorosas</EM>, 1624, 4to. in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>160</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">O.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., XVth century, in the Emperor&#39;s
+private collection at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>386</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- MS., XVIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>129</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>130</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ogier le Danois</EM>, 1525, folio, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>162</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azoguidi,</EM> 1471, wanting two
+leaves, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>141</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Fasti, Azoguidi</EM>, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>312</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz</EM>, 1471, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>312</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Epistolæ et Fasti</EM>, folio, in the same
+collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>312</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">P.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Paris et Vienne, Paris</EM>, no date, 4to., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>164</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Pentateuch, Hebr.</EM> 1491, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>111</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Petrarcha Sonetti</EM>, 1470, Prince Eugene&#39;s copy in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>325</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1473, <EM>Zarotus</EM>, folio, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>325</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1473, folio, in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>325</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Comment. Borstïï, Bologn.</EM>, 1475, folio, two
+copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one belonged to
+Prince Eugene,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>325</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Bolog.</EM>, 1476, folio, (<EM>Azoguidi</EM><A name=
+"fnref_178"></A><A class="fnref" href="#fn_178">178</A>) with the
+comment of Philelphus, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>25</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1501, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>147</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1514, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession of M. Renouard,
+bookseller,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>229</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1521, 12mo., in the King&#39;s Private Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Sonetti cum Comment. Velutelli</EM>, 1546, 8vo.,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Hist. Griseldis, Lat.</EM>, 1473, folio,--Prince
+Eugene&#39;s copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>318</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Phalaris Epist.</EM>, 1471, 4to., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>318</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ulric Han</EM>, folio, in the same collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>319</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>PHILOSTRATUS, <EM>Lat.</EM>, MS., XVth century in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>297</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne</EM>, 1490, 4to.
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>165</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Pindarus, Gr.</EM> 1502, <EM>Aldi</EM>, 12mo., in the
+Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>237</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Plautus</EM>, 1472, folio, edit. prin. in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>192</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1522, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 4to., Grolier&#39;s copy, apparently
+<EM>large paper</EM>, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Plinius Senior</EM>, 1469, folio, one copy, UPON VELLUM,
+and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>120</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>174</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>312</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>120</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the Library of Closterneuburg
+Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ital.</EM> 1476, <EM>Jenson</EM>, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>121</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the same collection,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>121</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Plutarchi Vitæ; Parallellæ, Ital.</EM>, folio, Litt. R., in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>409</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- the same edition in the Monastic Library at
+Closterneuburg,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Plutarchi Opuscula Moralia, Gr.</EM>, 1509, <EM>Aldus</EM>,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>137</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Poetæ Græci Principes, Gr.</EM>, 1556, folio, large paper,
+De Thou&#39;s copy in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>152</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Pogii Facetiæ, Monast. Euseb.</EM>, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>319</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Hist. Fiorent.</EM>, 1476, folio, UPON VELLUM and paper, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>325</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>POLYBIUS, <EM>Gr.</EM> MS., sec. XVI., Diane de Poictiers&#39;s
+copy, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>99</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Polybius, Lat., S. and Pannartz</EM>, 1473, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>398</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD, Ill. MS. 4to, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>67</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Priscianus</EM>, 1470, <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>139</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>319</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Ulric Han</EM>, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>319</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1527, 8vo., Grolier&#39;s copy, upon
+large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Printed by V. de Spira</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>175</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>PSALTERIUM, MS., IXth century, of Charles the Bald; in the
+Public Library at Paris;</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>66</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, Sti. Ludovici, XIIIth century, in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>68</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, XIth century, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>27</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, XIIth century, in the same Collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>28</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, XIIth century, in the Royal Private Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>36</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, XIIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>125</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, with most splendid illuminations, of the XVIth century,
+in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>133</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, St. Austin, XVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>33</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Latine</EM>, 1457, <EM>Fust and Schoeffher</EM>,
+folio, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>104</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>306</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Psalterium Latine</EM>, 1459, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>105</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1490, folio, <EM>Schoeffher</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>105</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1502, folio, <EM>Schoeffher</EM>, in the same
+library,</TD>
+<TD>--</TD>
+<TD>106</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, UPON VELLUM, <EM>Printed by Schoeffher&#39;s Son</EM>,
+1516, folio,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>106</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, without date--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>307</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Lips.</EM> 1486, 4to.--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>PTOLEMÆUS, <EM>Lat.</EM> MS. folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>85</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- MS. folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>59</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>142</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>319</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Printed by Buckinck</EM>, 1478, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>320</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">Q.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Quintilianus, I. de Lignam.</EM> 1470, folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>175</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1471, <EM>Jenson</EM>, folio, in the Public Library at
+Nuremberg, <EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>431</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">R.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ratdolt</EM>, specimens of the types from his press, in the
+Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>144</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Recueil des Histoires de Troye, printed by Caxton</EM>, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>102</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>printed by Verard</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the same
+Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>102</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Regnars, les, &amp;c. Verard</EM>, 4to. Prince Eugene&#39;s
+copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>329</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Regulæ, Confitend. peccata sua. Ital.</EM>, 1473, 4to., in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>326</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Repertorium Statut. Ord. Carth.</EM> 1510, folio, in the
+Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>202</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Richard sans Peur, Janot, no date</EM>, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>168</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Bonfons, no date</EM>, 4to., in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>158</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Robert le Diable, Janot, no date</EM>, 4to., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>158</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Romances, MS</EM>., in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>88</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>printed</EM>, in the same Library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>131</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>407</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>126</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Ronsard</EM>, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at
+Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>212</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>ROSE, ROMAN DE LA, MS. XIVth century, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>95</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>31</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Verard</EM>, no date, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>131</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Rossei opus elegans, &amp;c., Pynson</EM>, 1523, 4to., the
+author&#39;s copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>183</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">S.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA <EM>Pap. Greg.</EM>, MS., VIth
+century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>290</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram</EM>., copy in the chapter
+Library at Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>i.</TD>
+<TD>244,</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>in the Library of the Lycée at Bayeux,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>245</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Sannazarii Arcadia</EM>, 1514, <EM>Aldus</EM>, 8vo.,
+Grolier&#39;s copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Sannazarius de partu Virginis, Aldi</EM>, 1527, 12mo. in
+the King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>SCHAKZABEL, DER, MS. 1400 or 1450, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>32</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Séguin, Histore Militaire des Bocains</EM>, quoted, i 300,
+301, 302, <EM>sur l&#39;histoire de l&#39;industrie du Bocage, en
+général, et de la ville de Vire sa capitale en particulière,</EM>
+1810, 8vo.,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>303</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Servius in Virgilium</EM>, see <EM>Virgilius</EM>.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Sforziada La</EM>, 1480, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>134</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Shyppe of Fools</EM>, 1509, 8vo. <EM>printed by W.
+Worde</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>103</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>SIBILUS, &amp;c.</EM>, MS., xvth century, in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>127</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Silius Italicus, Laver</EM>, 1471, folio, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>193</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, 1471, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>26</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>332</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Spec. Hum, Salv</EM>, 1476, folio, <EM>printed by
+Richel</EM>, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>407</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Spec. Morale P. Bellovacensis</EM>, 1476, folio,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>405</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Judiciale Durandus</EM>, Printed by Hussner and
+Rekenhub, 1473, folio,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>405</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Speculum Stultorum</EM>, <EM>no date</EM>, 4to., in the
+Public Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Statius in usum Delphini</EM>, 4to., two copies, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>156</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsminster
+monastery,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>222</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Statutes of Richard III. Machlinia</EM>, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>124</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the King&#39;s Private Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>41</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Stephani, H. Gloss. Græc</EM>. 1573, &amp;c.,
+folio--<EM>cum notis mss: Bocharti</EM>, copy of, in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>211</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Successos y Prodigos de Amor</EM>, 1626, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>161</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Suetonius I. de Lignamine</EM>, 1470, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>175</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Suetonius S. and Pannartz</EM>, 1470, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Jenson</EM>, 1471, 4to.,--in the same collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>313</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Reisinger</EM>, 4to.,--<EM>without date</EM>, in the
+private royal collection at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Suidas, Gr.</EM>, 1499, folio--Lambecius&#39;s copy, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1503, folio, <EM>Aldus</EM>--large paper copy, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>151</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Sypperts de Vinevaulx, Paris, no date</EM>, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>159</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">T.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tacitus, I. de Spira</EM>, folio, edit. prin. in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata</EM>, the author&#39;s
+autograph--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>300</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Terentius, Mentelin</EM>, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Ulric Han</EM>, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>136</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Reisinger</EM>, folio--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>23</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Testamentum Novum, Hollandicè et Russ.</EM>, 1717, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>110</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Bohemice, Sec.</EM> xv--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>307</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>Græcè Erasmi</EM>, in the King&#39;s Private Library
+at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>39</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, <EM>R. Stephani</EM>, 1550, folio--Diane de
+Poictiers&#39;s copy--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>150</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tewrdanckhs</EM>, 1517, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Library
+of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>179</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>147</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tewrdanckhs</EM>, 1517, folio, UPON VELLUM, two copies of,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>329</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>238</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Theophrastus</EM>, 1497, Gr. <EM>Aldus</EM>,--Diane de
+Poictiers&#39;s copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>231</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Thucydide, Gourmont</EM>, folio, <EM>Verard</EM>--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--Prince Eugene&#39;s
+copy,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>330</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>TITE LIVE, MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>86</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tityrell and Pfartzival</EM>, 1477, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>181</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>236</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>TOURNAMENTS, BOOK OF, MS. xvth century--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>95</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- duplicate and more recent copy of</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>99</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tracts</EM>, Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg, folio,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>111</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Trebisond, Paris</EM>, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>167</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>TRISTAN, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>91</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, another MS. in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>91</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, a third MS. in the same library,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>92</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Gall.</EM> Sec. XIII., in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>299</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, another MS. in the same Collection,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>300</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tristran, Verard</EM>, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>330</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Trithemii Annales Hirsaugienses</EM>, 1690, folio--in the
+Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>227</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>403</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Troys filz de Roys</EM>, Paris, no date, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>164</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Tully of Old Age, Caxton</EM>--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>124</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Turrecremata I. de Meditationes, Ulric Han</EM>, 1467,
+folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>320</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+<EM>Supplement</EM>,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>430</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>----, 1473, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>307</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">V.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>VALERIUS MAXIMUS, MS. xvth century--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>298</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Mentelin</EM>, folio--two copies in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>408</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>24</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1475, <EM>Coes &amp;Stol</EM>, folio--in the Public
+Library at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1534, 8vo. Grolier&#39;s copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>148</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Valturius De Re Militari</EM>, 1472, folio--in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene&#39;s copy) at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>321</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Vaudevires, Basselin</EM>, 1811,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>212 -289</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Vie des Peres</EM>, 1494, folio, at Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>208</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Virgilius, S. &amp;Pannartz</EM>, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>116</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg--incomplete,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>408</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1470, <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>117</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>117</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>314</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1471, <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>118</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Virgilius,</EM> 1471, <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, late in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>23</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1471, <EM>V. de Spira</EM>, folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>315</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1471, <EM>Adam</EM>, folio--late in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>23</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Servius in Virgilium</EM>. <EM>Ulric Han</EM>,
+folio--Diane de Poictiers&#39;s copy, in the Mazarine Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>191</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Valdarfer</EM>, 1471, folio--in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>408</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1478, <EM>Gering</EM>, 4to., in the Royal Library at
+Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>119</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Aldus</EM>, 1501, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Munich,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>146</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- 1505, 8vo.--in the possession of M. Renouard,
+bookseller,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>230</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>S. and Pannartz</EM>, (1469) folio--in the Library of
+Ste. Geneviève,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>174</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>---- <EM>Gallice</EM>, 1582, folio--in the Public Library at
+Caen,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>212</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>VITÆ SANCTORUM, MS. Sec. XII.--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>29</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Vitruvius Giuntæ</EM>, 1513, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris,</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>178</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>Vocabularius, Bechtermuntze, 1467, 4to.</TD>
+<TD>ii</TD>
+<TD>115</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>U.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD><EM>Utino, T. de, Sermones</EM>, <EM>printed by Gering</EM>--in
+the Public Library at Vire,</TD>
+<TD>i</TD>
+<TD>297</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD colspan="3">W.</TD>
+</TR>
+
+<TR>
+<TD>WILLIBROODI STI. VITA. AUCT. ALCUINO. MS. xith century, in the
+Private Royal Library at Stuttgart,</TD>
+<TD>iii</TD>
+<TD>38</TD>
+</TR>
+</TABLE>
+
+<DIV class="footnote">
+<P><A name="fn_1"></A><A href="#fnref_1">1</A> M. Crapelet is of
+course speaking of the PREVIOUS edition of the Tour. He continues
+thus: &quot;M. Dibdin, dans son voyage en France, a visité nos
+départemens de l&#39;ouest et de l&#39;est, toutes leurs
+principales villes, presque tous les lieux remarquables par les
+antiquités, par les monumens, par les beautés du site, ou par les
+souvenirs historiques. Il a visité les châteaux, les églises, les
+chapelles; il a observé nos moeurs, nos coutumes; nos habitudes; il
+a examiné nos Musées et nos premiers Cabinets de curiosité; il
+s&#39;est concentré dans nos Bibliothéques. Il parle de notre
+littérature et des hommes de lettres, des arts et de nos artistes;
+il critique les personnes comme les choses; il loue quelquefois, il
+plaisante souvent; la vivacité de son esprit l&#39;égare presque
+toujours.&quot; A careful perusal of the notes in THIS edition will
+shew that my veracity has not &quot;almost always led me
+astray.&quot;</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_2"></A><A href="#fnref_2">2</A> GABRIEL PEIGNOT;
+<EM>Variétés, Notices et Raretés Bibliographiques, 1822, 8vo. p.
+4</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_3"></A><A href="#fnref_3">3</A> <EM>Lettre d&#39;un
+Relieur Francais à un Bibliographe Anglais; à Paris, de
+l&#39;Imprimerie de Crapelet</EM>, 1822, 8vo. p.p. 28.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_4"></A><A href="#fnref_4">4</A> It is a little
+curious that M. Lesné has not been singular in this supposition. My
+amiable and excellent friend M. Schweighæuser of Strasbourg had the
+same notion: at least, he told me that the style of the Tour very
+frequently reminded him of that of Sterne. I can only say--and say
+very honestly--that I as much thought of Sterne as I did of ...
+William Caxton!</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_5"></A><A href="#fnref_5">5</A> Copious as are the
+above quotations, from the thoroughly original M. Lesné, I cannot
+resist the risking of the readers patience and good opinion, by the
+subjoining of the following passage--with which the brochure
+concludes. &quot;D&#39;après la multitude de choses hasardées que
+contient votre Lettre, vous en aurez probablement recu quelques
+unes de personnes que vous aurez choquées plus que moi, qui vous
+devrais plutôt des remercimens pour avoir pris la peine de traduire
+quelques pages de mon ouvrage; mais il n&#39;en est pas de même de
+bien des gens, et cela ne doit pas les engager à être autant
+communicatif avec vous, si vous reveniez en France. Je souhaite,
+dans ce dernier cas, que tous les typographes, les bibliothècaires,
+les bibliognostes, les bibliographes, les bibliolathes, les
+bibliomanes, les biblophiles, les bibliopoles, ceux qui exercent la
+bibliuguiancie et les bibliopégistes même, soient pour vous autant
+de bibliotaphes; vous ne seriez plus à même de critiquer ce que
+vous sauriez et ce que vous ne sauriez pas, comme vous l&#39;aviez
+si souvent fait inconsidérément:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Mais tous vos procédés ne nous étonnent pas,<BR>
+C&#39;est le sort des Français de faire DES INGRATS;<BR>
+On les voit servir ceux qui leur furent nuisibles;<BR>
+Je crois que sur ce point ils sont incorrigibles.</P>
+
+<P>Je vous avouerai cependant que je suis loin d&#39;être fâché de
+vous voir en agir ainsi envers mes compatriotes: je désirerais que
+beaucoup d&#39;Anglais fissent de même; cela pourrait désangliciser
+ou désanglomaniser les Français. Vous, Monsieur, qui aimez les mots
+nouveaux, aidez-moi, je vous prie, à franciser, à purifier
+celui-ci. Quant à moi</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Je ne fus pas nourri de Grec et de Latin,<BR>
+J&#39;appris à veiller tard, à me lever matin,<BR>
+La nature est le livre où je fis mes études,<BR>
+Et tous ces mots nouveaux me semblent long-temps rudes;<BR>
+Je trouve qu&#39;on ne peut très bien les prononcer<BR>
+Sans affectation, au moins sans grimacer;<BR>
+Que tous ces mots tirés des langues étrangères,<BR>
+Devraient être l&#39;objet de critiques sévères.<BR>
+Faites donc de l&#39;esprit en depit du bon sens,<BR>
+On vous critiquera; quant à moi j&#39;y consens.</P>
+
+<P>Je terminerai cette longue Lettre de deux manières: à
+l&#39;anglaise, en vous souhaitant le bon jour ou le bon soir,
+suivant l&#39;heure à laquelle vous la recevrez; à la française, en
+vous priant de me croire,</P>
+
+<P>Monsieur,</P>
+
+<P>Votre très humble serviteur,</P>
+
+<P>LESNÉ.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_6"></A><A href="#fnref_6">6</A> The above brochure
+consists of two Letters; each to an anonymous bibliographical
+&quot;Confrere:&quot; one is upon the subject of M. Crapelet&#39;s
+version--the other, upon that of M. Licquet&#39;s version--of a
+portion of the Tour. The notice of the Works of the Author of the
+Tour; a list of the prices for which the Books mentioned in it have
+been sold; a Notice of the &quot;Hours of Charlemagne&quot; (see
+vol. ii. 199) and some account of the late Mr. Porson
+&quot;Librarian of the London Institution&quot;--form the remaining
+portion of this little volume of about 160 pages. For the
+&quot;Curiosités Bibliographiques,&quot; consult the
+<EM>Bibliomania</EM>, pp. 90, 91, &amp;c. &amp;c.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_7"></A><A href="#fnref_7">7</A> This letter
+accompanied another Work of M. Peignot, relating to editions and
+translations of the Roman Classics:--and as the reader will find,
+in the ensuing pages, that I have been sometime past labouring
+under the frightful, but popular, mania of AUTOGRAPHS, I subjoin
+with no small satisfaction a fac-simile of the Autograph of this
+enthusiastic and most diligent Bibliographer.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:60%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/031.png" alt="Autograph"></DIV>
+
+<P><A name="fn_8"></A><A href="#fnref_8">8</A> See page
+xviii.--ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_9"></A><A href="#fnref_9">9</A> M. Licquet goes on
+to afford an exemplification of this precipitancy of conjecture, in
+my having construed the word <EM>Allemagne</EM>--a village near to
+Caen--by that of <EM>Germany</EM>. I refer the reader to p. 168
+post, to shew with what perfect frankness I have admitted and
+corrected this &quot;<EM>hippopotamos</EM>&quot; error.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_10"></A><A href="#fnref_10">10</A> More especially
+at pages 82, 100, 367.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_11"></A><A href="#fnref_11">11</A> &quot;Sharp&quot;
+as they may be, they are softened, in some measure, by the
+admission of my bitterest annotator, M. Crapelet, that &quot;I
+speak and understand the French language well.&quot; vol. ii. p.
+253. It is painful and unusual with me to have recourse to such
+apparently self-complimentary language; but when an adversary
+drives one into a corner, and will not allow of fair space and fair
+play, one must fight with feet as well as with hands ...
+&quot;manibus pedibusque&quot; ...</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_12"></A><A href="#fnref_12">12</A> This
+<EM>hiatus</EM> must not be filled by the Author: ... &quot;haud
+equidem tali me dignor honore.&quot;</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_13"></A><A href="#fnref_13">13</A> See vol. ii. p.
+210-11.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_14"></A><A href="#fnref_14">14</A> See vol. i. p.
+186, vol. ii. pp. 49, 296, 392. The other fresh plates are,
+<EM>Portrait of the Author</EM>, frontispiece; Bird&#39;s-eye views
+of the <EM>Monasteries of St. Peter&#39;s, Salzburg, and of
+Molk:</EM> vol. iii. pp. 195, 248, 381, <EM>Black Eagle Inn</EM>,
+Munich, p. 156. But the Reader will be pleased to examine the
+<EM>List of Plates prefixed</EM>--in a preceding page.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_15"></A><A href="#fnref_15">15</A> Among these
+distinguished Literati, I here enrol with peculiar satisfaction the
+names of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUGIRON and Mons. DURAND DE LANCON. No
+opportunity having occurred in the subsequent pages to incorporate
+fac-similes of the Autographs of these distinguished
+<EM>Bibliophiles</EM>, they are annexed in the present place.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:90%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/042.png" alt="Autographs"></DIV>
+
+<P><A name="fn_16"></A><A href="#fnref_16">16</A> It is more than a
+negative consolation to me, to have lived to see the day, that,
+although comparatively impoverished, <EM>others</EM> have been
+enriched by my labours. When I noticed a complete set of my
+lucubrations on LARGE PAPER, valued at 250<EM>l</EM>. in a
+bookseller&#39;s catalogue, (Mr. Pickering&#39;s) and afterwards
+learnt that this set had found a PURCHASER, I had reason to think
+that I had &quot;deserved well&quot; of the Literature of my
+country: and I resolved to live &quot;mihi carior&quot; in
+consequence.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_17"></A><A href="#fnref_17">17</A> [Mons. Licquet,
+my translator, thinks, that in using the word
+&quot;<EM>Antiquaire</EM>&quot;--as appears in the previous edition
+of this work, incorporated in the gallicised sentence of
+&quot;<EM>Voyage Bibliographique Antiquaire</EM>, &amp;c.&quot;--I
+have committed an error; as the word
+&quot;<EM>Archéologique</EM>&quot; ought, in his opinion, to have
+been adopted--and he supposes that he best expresses my meaning by
+its adoption. Such a correction may be better French; but
+&quot;Archaeological&quot; is not exactly what is usually meant--in
+our language--by &quot;Antiquarian.&quot;]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_18"></A><A href="#fnref_18">18</A> This smart little
+vessel, of about 70 tons burden, considered to be the fastest
+sailing packet from Dieppe, survived our voyage only about eighteen
+months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on board of
+her. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound for
+Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew was with
+difficulty saved--and the vessel went down within about twenty-five
+minutes after the shock.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_19"></A><A href="#fnref_19">19</A> The English are
+not permitted to bring their own vessels into harbour--for obvious
+reasons.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_20"></A><A href="#fnref_20">20</A> [This
+&quot;scene&quot; has been, in fact, subsequently depicted by. the
+masterly pencil of J.M.W.TURNER, Esq. R.A: and the picture, in
+which almost all the powers of that surprising Artist are
+concentrated, was lately offered for sale by public auction. How it
+was suffered to be <EM>bought in</EM> for three hundred and eighty
+guineas, is at once a riddle and a reproach to public taste.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_21"></A><A href="#fnref_21">21</A> [I learn that he
+is since DECEASED. Thus the very first chapter of this second
+edition has to record an instance of the casualties and
+mutabilities which the short space of ten years has effected. Mons.
+De la Rue was a man of worth and of virtue.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_22"></A><A href="#fnref_22">22</A> [Mons. Licquet
+says that there were about 17,000 souls in 1824; so that the above
+number may be that of the amount of its <EM>present</EM>
+population. &quot;Several changes (says my French translator) have
+taken place at Dieppe since I saw it: among the rest, there is a
+magnificent establishment of BATHS, where a crowd of people, of the
+first distinction, every year resort. Her Royal Highness, the
+Duchesse de Berri, may be numbered among these Visitors.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_23"></A><A href="#fnref_23">23</A> [The common
+people to this day call a <EM>herring</EM>, a <EM>child of
+Dieppe.</EM> LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_24"></A><A href="#fnref_24">24</A> [&quot;Sterne
+reproaches the French for their hyperbolical language: the air of
+the country had probably some influence on M. Dibdin when he
+adopted this phrase.&quot; LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_25"></A><A href="#fnref_25">25</A>
+[&quot;Signifying, that the French postilions do not ride like the
+English.&quot; LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_26"></A><A href="#fnref_26">26</A> [&quot;Dieppe for
+a long time was the rival of Argentan and Caen in the
+lace-manufactory: at the present day, this branch of commerce is
+almost annihilated there.&quot;--LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_27"></A><A href="#fnref_27">27</A> [In a note
+attached to the previous edition--I have said, &quot;Here also, as
+well as at Rouen; they will have it that the ENGLISH built the
+Churches.&quot; Upon which M. Licquet remarks thus: &quot;M.
+Dibdin&#39;s expression conveys too general an idea. It is true
+that <EM>popular</EM> opinion attributes the erection of our gothic
+edifices to the ENGLISH: but there exists <EM>another</EM> opinion,
+which is not deceptive upon this subject.&quot; What is meant to be
+here conveyed? Either the popular opinion is true or false; and it
+is a matter of perfect indifference to the author whether it be one
+or the other. For Mons. Licquet&#39;s comfort, I will freely avow
+that I believe it to be <EM>false</EM>.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_28"></A><A href="#fnref_28">28</A> [Louis
+XVIII.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_29"></A><A href="#fnref_29">29</A> The French
+Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the 11th
+century, supposing it to have been built by <EM>William
+d&#39;Arques</EM>, Count of Tallon, son of the second marriage of
+Richard Duke of Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built,
+the sea almost washed its base: for it is known to have occupied
+the whole of what is called the <EM>Valley of Arques</EM>, running
+as far as <EM>Bouteilles</EM>. Its position, in reference to the
+art of war, must have been almost impregnable. Other hypotheses
+assign its origin to the ninth or tenth century. Whenever built,
+its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1144, it was commanded
+by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the crosier, but who
+perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history, up to the
+sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details; but in the
+wars of Henry IV. with the League, in 1589, it was taken by
+surprise by soldiers in the disguise of sailors: who, killing the
+centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry
+caused it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the
+eighteenth century it received very severe treatment from pillage,
+for the purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe.
+At present (in the language of the author of the <EM>Rouen
+Itinerary</EM>) &quot;it is the abode of silence--save when that
+silence is interrupted by owls and other nocturnal birds.&quot; The
+view of it in Mr. Cotman&#39;s work is very faithful.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_30"></A><A href="#fnref_30">30</A> The
+<EM>Itinéraire de Rouen</EM>, 1816, p. 202, says, absurdly, that
+this church is of the XIth century. It is perhaps with more truth
+of the beginning of the XIVth century. A pleasing view of it is in
+Mr. Dawson Turner&#39;s elegant Tour in Normandy, 1818, 8vo. 2 vol.
+It possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV., which is supposed to
+have been placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by
+Henry over the Duke of Mayenne in 1589.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_31"></A><A href="#fnref_31">31</A> The blue gown and
+red petticoat; or vice versa.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_32"></A><A href="#fnref_32">32</A> [I am anxious
+that the above sentence should stand precisely as it appeared in
+the first edition of this work; because a circumstance has arisen
+from it, which could have been as little in the anticipation, as it
+is in the comprehension, of the author. A lady, of high
+connections, and of respectable character, conceived the passage in
+question to be somewhat indecorous; or revolting to the serious
+sense entertained by all Christians, and especially by CHRISTIAN
+MINISTERS, of the mode of devoting the Sabbath day. In consequence,
+being in possession of a copy of this work, she DIVIDED it into
+two; not being willing to sully the splendour of the plates by the
+supposed impurity of such a passage:--and the prints were
+accordingly bound APART. The passage--as applied to the FRENCH
+PEOPLE-- requires neither comment nor qualification; and in the
+same unsophisticated view of religious duties, the <EM>latter</EM>
+part may be as strictly applied to the ENGLISH.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_33"></A><A href="#fnref_33">33</A> The dress of the
+<EM>sailors</EM> is the same as it was in the XIVth century; and so
+probably is that of the women. The illuminations in Froissard and
+Monstrelet clearly give us the Norman cauchoise.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_34"></A><A href="#fnref_34">34</A> [Mons. Licquet
+here observes, &quot;This is the first time I have heard it said
+that our Postilions put on rouge.&quot; What he adds, shall be
+given in his own pithy expression.--&quot;Où la coquetterie
+va-t-elle se nicher?&quot; What, however is above stated, was
+stated from a <EM>conviction</EM> of its being TRUE]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_35"></A><A href="#fnref_35">35</A> [The third
+English Printer.] See the <EM>Bibliographical Decameron</EM>, vol.
+ii. p. 137, 8.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_36"></A><A href="#fnref_36">36</A> A most ample and
+correct view of this west front will be found in Mr.
+<EM>Cotman&#39;s Norman Antiquities</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_37"></A><A href="#fnref_37">37</A> It is about 180
+English feet in width, by about 150 in the highest part of its
+elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr. Frere&#39;s, bookseller,
+upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois, were very
+inadequate representations of the building.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_38"></A><A href="#fnref_38">38</A> The ravages
+committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of the
+towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the
+year 1560, afford a melancholy proof of the effects of RELIGIOUS
+ANIMOSITY. But the Calvinists were bitter and ferocious
+persecutors. Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, <EM>Histoire de
+l&#39;Eglise Cathedrale de Rouen</EM>, 1686, has devoted nearly one
+hundred pages to an account of Calvinistic depredations.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_39"></A><A href="#fnref_39">39</A> [Mr. Cotman has a
+plate of the elevation of the front of this south transept; and a
+very minute and brilliant one will be found in the previous edition
+of this Tour--by Mr. Henry le Keux: for which that distinguished
+Artist received the sum of 100 guineas. The remuneration was well
+merited.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_40"></A><A href="#fnref_40">40</A> [Mons. Licquet
+says each clustered pillar contains thirty-one columns.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_41"></A><A href="#fnref_41">41</A> This chapel is
+about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in width, and
+sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de Champagne,
+at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering so many
+square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the
+XIVth century: the stained glass windows are of the latter end of
+the XVth. On completing the circuit of the cathedral, one is
+surprised to count not fewer than <EM>twenty-five</EM> chapels.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_42"></A><A href="#fnref_42">42</A> [Mons. Licquet is
+paraphrastically warm in his version, here. He renders it thus:
+&quot;les atteintes effroyables du vandalisme révolutionaire,&quot;
+vol. i. p. 64.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_43"></A><A href="#fnref_43">43</A> Sandford, after
+telling us that he thinks there &quot;never was any
+portraiture&quot; of the Duke, thus sums up his character. &quot;He
+was justly accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed
+out of the royal stem of PLANTAGENET. His valour was not more
+terrible to his enemies than his memory honourable; for (doubtful
+whether with more glory to him, or to the speaker) King Lewis the
+Eleventh being counselled by certain envious persons to deface his
+tomb (wherein with him, saith one, was buried all English men&#39;s
+good fortune in France) used these indeed princely words: &#39;What
+honour shall it be to us, or you, to break this monument, and to
+pull out of the ground the bones of HIM, whom, in his life time,
+neither my father nor your progenitors, with all their puissance,
+were once able to make flie a foot backwarde? who, by his strength,
+policy and wit kept them all out of the principal dominions of
+France, and out of this noble duchy of Normandy? Wherefore, I say
+first, GOD SAVE HIS SOUL; and let his body now lie in rest, which
+when he was alive, would have disquieted the proudest of us all.
+And for THIS TOMB, I assure you it is not so worthy or convenient
+as his honour and acts have deserved.&#39;&quot; p. 314-5, Ed.
+1707<A name="fnref_A"></A><A href="#fn_A">A</A> The famous MISSAL,
+once in the possession of this celebrated nobleman, and containing
+the only authenticated portrait of him (which is engraved in the
+<EM>Bibliog. Decameron</EM>, vol. i. p. cxxxvii.) is now the
+property of John Milner, Esq. of York Place, Portman Square, who
+purchased it of the Duke of Marlborough. The Duke had purchased it
+at the sale of the library of the late James Edwards, Esq. for
+687l. 15s.</P>
+
+<P class="ind2"><A name="fn_A"></A><A href="#fnref_A">A</A> [Upon
+this, Mons. Licquet, with supposed shrewdness and success,
+remarks,--&quot;All very well: but we must not forget that the
+innocent Joan of Arc was burnt alive--thanks to this said Duke of
+Bedford, as every one knows!&quot;]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_44"></A><A href="#fnref_44">44</A> [A different tale
+may be told of ONE of his Successors in the same Anglo-Norman
+pursuit. The expenses attending the graphic embellishments alone of
+the previous edition of this work, somewhat exceeded the sum of
+<EM>four thousand seven hundred pounds.</EM> The risk was entirely
+my own. The result was the loss of about 200l.: exclusively of the
+expences incurred in travelling about 2000 miles. The
+<EM>copper-plates</EM> (notwithstanding every temptation, and many
+entreaties, to <EM>multiply</EM> impressions of several of the
+subjects engraved) were DESTROYED. There may be something more than
+a mere negative consolation, in finding that the work is RISING in
+price, although its author has long ceased to partake of any
+benefit resulting from it.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_45"></A><A href="#fnref_45">45</A> A plate of this
+Monument is published in the Tour of Normandy by Dawson Turner,
+Esq.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_46"></A><A href="#fnref_46">46</A> The Cardinal died
+in his fiftieth year only; and his funeral was graced and honoured
+by the presence of his royal master. Guicciardini calls him
+&quot;the oracle and right arm of Louis.&quot; Of eight brothers,
+whom he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His
+nephew succeeded him as Archbishop. See also <EM>Historia
+Genealogica Magnatum Franciae</EM>; vol. vii. p. 129; quoted in the
+<EM>Gallia Christiana</EM>, vol. xi. col. 96.</P>
+
+<P>It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew
+of Amboise--namely, that of CHARLES of BOURBON--that the
+<EM>Calvanistic persecution</EM> commenced. &quot;Tunc vero coepit
+civitas, dioecesis, universaque provincia lamentabilem in modum
+conflictari, saevientibus ob religionis dissidia plusquam civilibus
+bellis,&quot; &amp;c. But then the good Archbishop, however
+bountiful he might have been towards the poor at
+<EM>Roncesvalles</EM>, (when he escorted Philip II.&#39;s first
+wife Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. to the confines of Spain,
+after he had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have
+inflamed the irritated minds of the Calvinists, by BURNING ALIVE,
+in 1559, <EM>John Cottin</EM>, one of their most eminent preachers,
+by way of striking terror into the rest! Well might the Chronicler
+observe, as the result, &quot;novas secta illa in dies acquirebat
+vires.&quot; About 1560-2, the Calvinists got the upper hand; and
+repaid the Catholics with a vengeance. Charles of Bourbon died in
+1590: so that he had an arduous and agitated time of it.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_47"></A><A href="#fnref_47">47</A> How long will
+this monument--(matchless of its kind)--continue unrepresented by
+the BURIN? If Mr. Henry Le Keux were to execute it in his best
+style, the world might witness in it a piece of Art entirely
+perfect of its kind. But let the pencils of Messrs. Corbould and
+Blore be first exercised on the subject. In the mean while, why is
+GALLIC ART inert?</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_48"></A><A href="#fnref_48">48</A> The choir was
+formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or rather from the
+space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass grating, full
+of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments--another testimony of the
+magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister of Louis
+XII.: whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St. George,
+were seen in the centre of every compartment ... The Revolution has
+not left a vestige behind!</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_49"></A><A href="#fnref_49">49</A> [In this edition,
+I put the above passage in <EM>Italics</EM>,--to mark, that, within
+three years of writing it, the spire was consumed by LIGHTNING. The
+newspapers of both France and England were full of this melancholy
+event; and in the year 1823, Monsieur Hyacinthe Langlois, of Rouen,
+published an account of it, together with some views (indifferently
+lithographised) of the progress of the burning. &quot;It should
+seem (says Mons. Licquet) that the author had a presentiment of
+what was speedily to take place:--for the rest, the same species of
+destruction threatens all similar edifices, for the want of
+conductors.&quot; I possess a fragment of the lead of the roof, as
+it was collected after a state of <EM>fusion</EM>--and sent over to
+me by some friend at Rouen. The fusion has caused portions of the
+lead to assume a variety of fantastic shapes--not
+<EM>altogether</EM> unlike a gothic building.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_50"></A><A href="#fnref_50">50</A> Let me add that
+the whole length of the cathedral is about four hundred and forty
+feet; and the transept about one hundred and seventy- five; English
+measure. The height of the nave is about ninety, and of the lantern
+one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The length of the nave
+is two hundred and twenty-eight feet.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_51"></A><A href="#fnref_51">51</A> He died in 1531.
+Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are inserted by
+Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin; and formerly there was seen, in
+the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal habited as
+a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did not
+outlive the Revolution.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_52"></A><A href="#fnref_52">52</A> It must be
+admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Indivulsa tibi quondam et fidissima
+conjux<BR>
+Vt fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have
+&quot;moved the bile&quot; of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and
+have excited the taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her
+subsequent connexion, in the character of mistress, with Henry the
+Second of France. Henry however endeavoured to compensate for his
+indiscretions by the pomp and splendor of his processions. Rouen,
+so celebrated of old for the entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to
+have been in a perfect blaze of splendor upon that of the Lover of
+Diana--&quot;qui fut plus magnifique que toutes celles qu&#39;on
+avoit vu jusqu&#39;alors:&quot; see <EM>Farin&#39;s Hist. de la
+Ville de Rouen</EM>, vol. i. p. 121, where there is a singularly
+minute and gay account of all the orders and degrees of
+citizens--(with their gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes,
+velvet hats, rich brocades, and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom
+the processions were composed. It must have been a perfectly
+dramatic sight, upon the largest possible scale. It was from
+respect to the character or the memory of DIANA, that so many
+plaster-representations of her were erected on the exteriors of
+buildings: especially of those within small squares or quadrangles.
+In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old mansions of
+this kind.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_53"></A><A href="#fnref_53">53</A> The inscription
+is this:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Si quem sancta tenet meditandi in lege
+voluntas,<BR>
+Hic poterit residens, sacris intendere libris</EM>.</P>
+
+<P>Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossiping chapter [Chap.
+xxii.] &quot;De la Bibliothêque de la Cathédrale;&quot; p. 163: to
+which FRANÇOIS DE HARLAY, about the year 1630, was one of the most
+munificent benefactors.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_54"></A><A href="#fnref_54">54</A> <EM>Christian
+interment</EM>.]--&quot;Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de
+compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la
+justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu&#39;il leur
+avoit rendus dans la construction de leur église, nonobstant sa fin
+tragique, ne laissèrent pas de luy fair l&#39;honneur de
+l&#39;inhumer dans la chapelle de sainte Agnes, ou sa tombe se voit
+encore auec cet Epitaphe:</P>
+
+<P class="quote"><EM>Cy gist</EM> M. ALEXANDRE DE BERNEUAL,
+<EM>Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie.</EM></P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_55"></A><A href="#fnref_55">55</A> Even Dr. Ducarel
+became warm--on contemplating this porch! &quot;The porch at the
+south entrance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of the
+spectator&#39;s attention, being highly enriched with architectonic
+ornaments; particularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the
+combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down
+from the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing effect.&quot; p.
+28.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_56"></A><A href="#fnref_56">56</A> Consult the
+account given by M. Le Prevost in the &quot;<EM>Précis Analytique
+des Travaux de l&#39;Academie, &amp;c. de Rouen</EM>,&quot; for the
+year 1816, p. 151, &amp;c.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_57"></A><A href="#fnref_57">57</A> Farin tells us
+that you could go from the top of the lantern to the cross, or to
+the summit of the belfry, &quot;outside, without a ladder; so
+admirable was the workmanship.&quot; &quot;Strangers (adds he) took
+models of it for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they
+were sold publicly at Rome.&quot; <EM>Hist. de la Ville de
+Rouen</EM>, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154. There are thirteen chapels
+within this church; of which however the building cannot be traced
+lower than quite the beginning of the XVIth century. The extreme
+length and width of the interior is about 155 by 82 feet English.
+Even in Du Four&#39;s time the population of this parish was very
+great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most regular in
+Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it--&quot;on va
+tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pavées; et, deux de ces
+galeries sont decorées de deux autels,&quot; &amp;c. p. 150.</P>
+
+<P>Alas! time--or the revolution--has annihilated all this. Let me
+however add that M. COTMAN has published a view of the
+<EM>staircase</EM> in the church of which I am speaking.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_58"></A><A href="#fnref_58">58</A> Ordericus Vitalis
+says, that the dying monarch requested to be conveyed thither, to
+avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town. Rouen is described
+to be, in <EM>his</EM> time, &quot;populosa civitas.&quot; Consult
+Duchesne&#39;s <EM>Historiæ Normannor. Scrip. Antiq.</EM>
+p.656.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_59"></A><A href="#fnref_59">59</A> A view of it is
+published by M. Cotman.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_60"></A><A href="#fnref_60">60</A> <EM>St.
+Sever</EM>. This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs, by
+the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &amp;c.
+As you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you
+leave it to the right; but it is not so old as <EM>St.
+Paul</EM>--where, Farin says, the worship of ADONIS was once
+performed!</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_61"></A><A href="#fnref_61">61</A> [I apprehend this
+custom to be prevalent in fortified towns:--as Rouen
+<EM>formerly</EM> was--and as I found such custom to obtain at the
+present day, at Strasbourg. Mons. Licquet says that the allusion to
+the curfew--or <EM>couvre-feu</EM>--as appears in the previous
+edition--and which the reader well knows was established by the
+Conqueror with us--was no particular badge of the slavery of the
+English. It had been <EM>previously</EM> established by William in
+NORMANDY. Millot is referred to as the authority.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_62"></A><A href="#fnref_62">62</A> <EM>the
+famous</EM> JEANNE D&#39;ARC.] Goube, in the second volume of his
+<EM>Histoire du Duché de Normandie</EM>, has devoted several
+spiritedly written pages to an account of the trial and execution
+of this heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the
+English--from earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had
+been completely prejudged; for that, previously to the sentence
+being passed, they began to erect &quot;a scaffold of plaster, so
+raised, that the flames could not at first reach her--and she was
+in consequence consumed by a slow fire: her tortures being long and
+horrible.&quot; Hume has been rather too brief: but he judiciously
+observes that the conduct of the Duke of Bedford &quot;was equally
+barbarous and dishonourable.&quot; Indeed it were difficult to
+pronounce which is entitled to the greatest abhorrence--the
+imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of Luxembourg, or
+the treachery of the Regent Bedford?</P>
+
+<P>The <EM>identical</EM> spot on which she suffered is not now
+visible, according to Millin; that place having been occupied by
+the late <EM>Marché des Veaux</EM>. It was however not half a
+stone&#39;s throw from the site of the present statue. In the
+<EM>Antiquités Nationales</EM> of the last mentioned author (vol.
+iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates connected with the History
+of JOAN of ARC. The <EM>first</EM> plate represents the <EM>Porte
+Bouvreuil</EM> to the left, and the circular old tower to the
+right--in which latter Joan was confined, with some houses before
+it; the middle ground is a complete representation of the
+rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen are
+yet surrounded; and French taste has enlivened the foreground with
+a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling
+themselves with a flagon of wine. The old circular tower (&quot;qui
+vit gémir cette infortunée,&quot; says Millin) exists no longer.
+The second plate represents the fountain which was built in the
+market-place upon the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which
+spot was at first designated by the erection of a cross. From the
+style of the embellishments it appears to have been of the time of
+Francis I.</P>
+
+<P>Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or
+demolished in 1755; upon the site of which was built the present
+tasteless production-- resembling, as the author of the
+<EM>Itinéraire de Rouen</EM> (p. 69) well observes, &quot;rather a
+Pallas than the heroine of Orleans.&quot; The name of the author
+was STODTS. Millin&#39;s <EM>third</EM> plate--of this present
+existing fountain, is desirable; in as much as it shews the front
+of the house, in the interior of which are the basso-rilievos of
+the <EM>Champ de drap d&#39;Or</EM>: for an account of which see
+afterwards.</P>
+
+<P>Millin allows that all PORTRAITS of her--whether in sculpture,
+or painting, or engraving--are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest,
+in point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass
+window of the church of the <EM>Minimes</EM> at Chaillot: although
+the building was not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it
+might have been a copy of some coeval production. In regard to oil
+paintings, I take it that the portrait of JUDITH, with a sword in
+one hand, and the head of Holofernes in the other, has been usually
+copied (with the omission of the latter accompaniment) as that of
+JEANNE D&#39;ARC. I hardly know a more interesting collection of
+books than that which may be acquired respecting the fate of this
+equally brave and unfortunate heroine.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_63"></A><A href="#fnref_63">63</A> Far be it from me
+to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon. But those who have not the
+means of getting at that learned antiquarian&#39;s <EM>Monarchie
+Françoise</EM> may possibly have an opportunity of examining
+precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded
+to, in <EM>Ducarel&#39;s Anglo-Norman Antiquities</EM>, Plate XII.
+Till the year 1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was
+supposed to represent the <EM>Council of Trent</EM>; but the Abbé
+Noel, happening to find a salamander marked upon the back of one of
+the figures, supposed, with greater truth, that it was a
+representation of the abovementioned procession; and accordingly
+sent Montfaucon an account of the whole. The Abbé might have found
+more than one, two, or three salamanders, if he had looked closely
+into this extraordinary exterior; and possibly, in his time, the
+surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of the human
+features, might not have sustained the injuries which time and
+accident now seem to have inflicted on them. [A beautiful effort in
+the graphic way representing the entire interior front of this
+interesting mansion, is said to be published at Rouen.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_64"></A><A href="#fnref_64">64</A> In the previous
+edition of this work, there appeared a facsimile of a small portion
+of this bas-relief, representing--as I imagine--the setting out of
+Francis to meet Henry. Nothing, as far as correctness of detail
+goes, can give a more faithful resemblance of the PRECISE STATE in
+which the original appears: the defaced and the entire parts being
+represented with equal fidelity. Mons. Langlois has given a plate
+of the entire façade or front--in outline--with great ability; but
+so small as to give little or no notion of the character of the
+original.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_65"></A><A href="#fnref_65">65</A> In Ducarel&#39;s
+time, &quot;the ground story consisted of a great quadrangle
+surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone
+staircase led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as
+well as external appearance, resembled, though in miniature,
+Westminster Hall. Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen
+of the long robe, in their gowns and bands, walking up and down
+with briefs in their hands, and making a great show of
+business.&quot; <EM>Anglo-Norman Antiquities</EM>, p. 32.
+[According to Mons. Licquet, this &quot;singularly curious
+hall&quot; was begun to be built in 1493. It was afterwards, and is
+still called, <EM>la Salle des Procureurs</EM>.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_66"></A><A href="#fnref_66">66</A> <EM>the choicest
+library</EM>] Monsieur Riaux, Archiviste de la Chambre de Commerce.
+This amiable man unites a love of literature with that of
+architectural antiquities. The library of M. Le Prevost is however
+as copious as that of Mons. R.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_67"></A><A href="#fnref_67">67</A> Bourgueville
+describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being
+&quot;aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleüe, violée
+&amp;autres couleurs, selon qu&#39;vn grand nombre de teinturiers
+qui sont dessus, la diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs
+maneures.&quot; <EM>Antiquitez de Caen</EM>, p. 36.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_68"></A><A href="#fnref_68">68</A> <EM>expedition
+thither</EM>.]--When John Evelyn visited this neighbourhood, in
+1644, &quot;the country so abounded with <EM>wolves</EM>, that a
+shepherd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was
+strangled by one of them the day before--and that, in the midst of
+the flock! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears
+and apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with
+quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance.&quot;
+<EM>Memoirs of the Life and Writings of John Evelyn</EM>, vol. i.
+p. 50. Edit. 1818. My friend Mr. J. H. Markland visited Mont St.
+Catharine the year after the visit above described. He was of
+course enchanted with the view; and told me, that a friend whom he
+met there, and who had travelled pretty much in Italy, assured him
+there was nothing like it on the banks of either the <EM>Arno</EM>
+or the <EM>Po</EM>. In short, it is quite peculiar to itself--and
+cannot be surpassed.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_69"></A><A href="#fnref_69">69</A> It is thus
+prettily observed in the little <EM>Itineraire de Rouen</EM>
+--&quot;Ces agréables maisons de plaisance appartiennent à des
+habitants de Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison,
+se délasser des embarras de la ville et des fatigues du
+commerce.&quot; p. 153.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_70"></A><A href="#fnref_70">70</A>
+<EM>race-ground</EM>]--When the English cavalry were quartered here
+in 1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with
+each other. These races were gaily attended by the inhabitants; and
+I heard, from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations
+bestowed upon the fleetness of the coursers and the skill of the
+riders.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_71"></A><A href="#fnref_71">71</A> The reader may
+possibly not object to consult two or three pages of the
+<EM>Bibliographical Decameron</EM>, beginning at page 137, vol. ii.
+respecting a few of the early Rouen printers. The name of MAUFER,
+however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled
+<EM>Gaietanus de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor.
+Libros</EM>, of the date of 1476--in the possession of Earl
+Spencer. See <EM>Æd. Althorp</EM>. vol. ii. p. 134. From the
+colophon of which we can only infer that Maufer was a <EM>citizen
+of Rouen</EM>. [According to M. Licquet, the first book printed at
+Rouen--a book of the greatest rarity--was entitled <EM>Les
+Croniques de Normandie, par Guillaume Le Talleur</EM>, 1487,
+folio.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_72"></A><A href="#fnref_72">72</A> [Since the
+publication of the first edition of this Tour, I have had
+<EM>particular</EM> reason to become further acquainted with the
+partiality of the Rouennois for Parisian printing. When M. Licquet
+did me the honour to translate my IXth Letter, subjoining notes,
+(which cut their own throats instead of that of the author
+annotated upon) he employed the press of Mons. Crapelet, at Paris:
+a press, as eminently distinguished for its beauty and accuracy, as
+its Director has proved himself to be for his narrow-mindedness and
+acrimony of feeling. M.L. (as I learnt from a friend who conversed
+with him, and as indeed I naturally expected) seemed to be sorry
+for what he had done.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_73"></A><A href="#fnref_73">73</A> <EM>like Aldus,
+&quot;say my saying&quot; quickly</EM>.] Consult Mr. Roscoe&#39;s
+<EM>Life of Leo X.</EM> vol. i. p. 169-70, 8vo. edit. Unger, in his
+Life of Aldus, <EM>edit. Geret.</EM> p. xxxxii. has a pleasant
+notice of an inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of
+his printing-office by Aldus. [It has been quoted to satiety, and I
+therefore omit it here.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_74"></A><A href="#fnref_74">74</A> [Mons. Périaux
+has lately published a Dictionary of the Streets of Rouen, in
+alphabetical order; in two small, unostentatious, and useful octavo
+volumes.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_75"></A><A href="#fnref_75">75</A> [Mons. Licquet
+translates the latter part of the above passage thus:--&quot;avec
+quelle facilité nous parvenons à nous abuser nous-mêmes,&quot;--
+adding, in a note, as follows: &quot;J&#39;avais d&#39;abord vu un
+tout autre sens dans la phrase anglaise. Si celui que j&#39;adopte
+n&#39;était pas encore le veritable, j&#39;en demande sincèrement
+pardon à l&#39;auteur.&quot; In turn, I may not be precisely
+informed of the meaning and force of the verb
+&quot;<EM>abuser</EM>&quot;-- used by my translator: but I had been
+better satisfied with the verb <EM>tromper</EM>--as more closely
+conveying the sense of the original.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_76"></A><A href="#fnref_76">76</A> M. Le Prevost is
+a belles-lettres Antiquary of the highest order. His &quot;Mémoire
+faisant suite à l&#39;Essai sur les Romans historiques du moyen
+âge&quot; may teach modern Normans not to despair when death shall
+have laid low their present oracle the ABBE&#39; DE LA RUE. [I am
+proud, in this second edition of my Tour, to record the
+uninterrupted correspondence and friendship of this distinguished
+Individual; and I can only regret, in common with several friends,
+that M. Le Prevost will not summon courage sufficient to visit a
+country, once in such close connexion with his own, where a HEARTY
+RECEPTION has long awaited him.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_77"></A><A href="#fnref_77">77</A> [The omission, in
+this place, of the entire IXth Letter, relating to the PUBLIC
+LIBRARY at Rouen, must be accounted for, and it is hoped, approved,
+on the principle laid down at the outset of this undertaking;
+namely, to omit much that was purely bibliographical, and of a
+secondary interest to the general Reader. The bibliography, in the
+original IXth Letter, being of a partial and comparatively dry
+description--as relating almost entirely to ancient volumes of
+Church Rituals--was thought to be better omitted than abridged.
+Another reason might be successfully urged for its omission.</P>
+
+<P>This IXth Letter, which comprehends 22 pages in the previous
+impression, and about 38 pages in the version, having been
+translated and <EM>separately</EM> published in 1821, by Mons.
+Licquet (who succeeded M. Gourdin as Principal Librarian of the
+Library in question) I had bestowed upon it particular attention,
+and entered into several points by way of answer to his remarks,
+and in justification or explanation of the original matter. In
+consequence, any <EM>abridgement</EM> of that original matter must
+have led to constant notice of the minute remarks, and pigmy
+attacks, of my critical translator: and the stream of intelligence
+in the text might have been diverted, or rendered unpalatable, by
+the observations, in the way of controversy, in the notes. If M.
+Licquet considers this avowal as the proclaiming of his triumph, he
+is welcome to the laurels of a Conqueror; but if he can persuade
+any COMMON FRIENDS that, in the translation here referred to, he
+has defeated the original author in one essential position- -or
+corrected him in one flagrant inaccuracy--I shall be as prompt to
+thank him for his labours, as I am now to express my astonishment
+and pity at his undertaking. When M. Licquet put forth the brochure
+in question--(so splendidly executed in the press of M.
+Crapelet--to harmonise, in all respects, with the large paper
+copies of the original English text) he had but recently occupied
+the seat of his Predecessor. I can commend the zeal of the
+newly-appointed Librarian in Chief; but must be permitted to
+question alike his judgment and his motives.</P>
+
+<P>One more brief remark in this place. My translator should seem
+to commend what is only laudatory, in the original author,
+respecting his countrymen. Sensitively alive to the notice of their
+smallest defects, he has the most unbounded powers of digestion for
+that of their excellences. Thus, at the foot of the ABOVE PASSAGE,
+in the text, Mons. Licquet is pleased to add as follows--in a note:
+&quot;Si M. Dibdin ne s&#39;était livré qu&#39;à des digressions de
+cette nature, il aurait trouvé en France un chorus universel, un
+concert de voeux unanimes:&quot; vol. i. p. 239. And yet few
+travellers have experienced a more cordial reception, and
+maintained a more <EM>harmonious</EM> intercourse, than HE, who,
+from the foregoing quotation, is more than indirectly supposed to
+have provoked opposition and <EM>discord!</EM>]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_78"></A><A href="#fnref_78">78</A> [I am ignorant of
+his present destination; but learn that he has quitted the above
+situation a long time.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_79"></A><A href="#fnref_79">79</A> [Mr. COTMAN has
+published views of the West Front, the South East, the West
+Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculptured capitals and
+basso-relievos, &amp;c. In the whole, seven plates.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_80"></A><A href="#fnref_80">80</A> [Mr. Cotman has
+published etchings of the West Front: the Towers, somewhat
+fore-shortened; the Elevation of the Nave--and doorway of the
+Abbey: the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A
+somewhat particular and animated description of it will be found in
+<EM>Lieut. Hall&#39;s Travels in France</EM>, 8vo. p. 57, 1819. [In
+the first edition, I had called the west end towers of the
+Abbey--&quot;small.&quot; Mons. Licquet has suggested that I must
+have meant &quot;<EM>comparatively</EM>&quot; small;--in
+contradistinction to the centre-tower, which would have been
+larger. We learn also from M. Licquet that the spire of this
+central tower was demolished in 1573, by the Abbé le Veneur, Bishop
+of Evreux.&quot; What earthly motive could have led to such a
+brutal act of demolition?]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_81"></A><A href="#fnref_81">81</A> [&quot;I know
+perfectly well, says M. Licquet, the little Inn of which the author
+here speaks. I can assure him that it never formed any portion of
+the &quot;chapter house.&quot; It was nevertheless une
+<EM>dependance exterieure</EM> (I will not attempt a version of
+this phrase) of the abbey. Dare I venture to say it was the
+<EM>cowhouse</EM>? (étable aux vaches). Thank you, good Mons.
+Licquet; but what is a cow-house but &quot;an <EM>outer
+building</EM> attached to the Abbey?&quot; Vide supra.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_82"></A><A href="#fnref_82">82</A> [The heart and
+entrails only of this once celebrated woman were, according to M.
+Licquet, buried in the above spot. The body was carried to Loches:
+and BELLEFOREST <EM>(Cosmog.</EM> vol. i. Part ii. col. 31-32.
+edit. 1575, folio) gives a description of the mausoleum where it
+was there entombed: a description, adds M. Licquet, which may well
+serve for the mausoleum that was at Jumieges.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_83"></A><A href="#fnref_83">83</A> [Not the smallest
+portion or particle of a sigh escapes us, on being told, as my
+translator has told us, that the &quot;soil&quot; in question has
+become the property of another Owner. &quot;Laius EST
+MORT&quot;--are the emphatic words of M. Licquet.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_84"></A><A href="#fnref_84">84</A> [One of the bells
+of the Abbey of Jumieges is now in the Tower of that of St. Ouen,
+at Rouen. LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_85"></A><A href="#fnref_85">85</A> The nave was
+begun in 1416. LICQUET.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_86"></A><A href="#fnref_86">86</A> Corrected by
+Mons. Licquet: with thanks from the Author. It was, before,
+1184.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_87"></A><A href="#fnref_87">87</A> Lieutenant Hall
+has well described it. I did not see his description till more than
+a twelvemonth after my own had been written. A part may be worth
+extracting.... &quot;The principal object of attraction is the
+CHURCH, the gothic spire of which is encircled by fillets of roses,
+beautifully carved in stone, and continued to the very summit of
+the steeple. The principal portal too is sculptured with no less
+richness and delicacy than that of St. Maclou at Rouen. Its
+interior length is about 250 feet by 72 of width. The central aisle
+[nave] is flanked on either side by ten massive circular columns,
+the capitals of which represent vine leaves and other decorations,
+more fanciful, and not less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus....
+In one of the chapels there is a rude monumental effigy of the
+original architect of this church. It consists of a small skeleton,
+drawn in black lines, against a tablet in the wall: a mason&#39;s
+level and trowel, with the plan of a building, are beside it, and
+an inscription in gothic characters, relating that the architect
+endowed the church he had built with certain lands, and died Anno
+1484.&quot; <EM>Travels in France</EM>, p. 47, 1819, 8vo. I take
+this to be GUILLAUME TELLIER-- mentioned above: but in regard to
+the lands with which Tellier endowed the church, the inscription
+says nothing. LICQUET.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_88"></A><A href="#fnref_88">88</A> Small as may be
+this village, and insignificant as may be its aspect, it is one of
+the most important places, with respect to navigation, in the whole
+course of the river Seine. Seven years ago there were not fewer
+than <EM>four-score</EM> pilots settled here, by order of
+government, for the purpose of guarding against accidents which
+arise from a want of knowledge of the navigation of the river. In
+time of peace this number would necessarily be increased. In the
+year 1789 there were upwards of 250 English vessels which passed
+it--averaging, in the whole, 19,000 tons. It is from
+<EM>Quillebeuf</EM>to <EM>Havre</EM> that the accidents arise. The
+author of a pompous, but very instructive memoir, &quot;<EM>sur la
+Topographie et la Statistique de la Ville de Quillebeuf et de
+l&#39;embouchure de la Seine, ayant pour objet-principal la
+navigation et la pêché</EM>,&quot; (published in the Transactions
+of the Rouen Society for the year 1812, and from which the
+foregoing information has been obtained) mentions three or four
+<EM>wrecks</EM> which have taken place in the immediate vicinity of
+Quillebeuf: and it should seem that a <EM>calm</EM> is, of all
+things, the most fatal. The currents are strong, and the vessel is
+left to the mercy of the tides in consequence. There are also rocks
+and sand banks in abundance. Among the wrecks, was one, in which a
+young girl of eighteen years of age fell a victim to the ignorance
+of the pilot. The vessel made a false tack between <EM>Hode</EM>
+and <EM>Tancarville</EM>, and running upon a bank, was upset in an
+instant. An English vessel once shared the same calamity. A thick
+fog suddenly came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank near the
+<EM>Nez de Tancarville</EM>, and the crew had just time to throw
+themselves into the boat and escape destruction. The next morning,
+so sudden and so decisive was the change wrought by the sand and
+current, that, of the sloop, there remained, at ebb-tide, only ten
+feet of her mast visible! It appears that the <EM>Quillebois</EM>,
+owing to their detached situation, and their peculiar occupations,
+speak a very barbarous French. They have a sort of sing-song method
+of pronunciation; and the <EM>g</EM> and <EM>j</EM> are strangely
+perverted by them. Consult the memoir here referred to; which
+occupies forty octavo pages: and which forms a sequel to a previous
+communication (in 1810) &quot;upon the Topography and Medical
+properties of Quillebeuf and its adjacent parts.&quot; The author
+is M. Boismare. His exordium is a specimen of the very worst
+possible taste in composition. One would suppose it to be a prelude
+to an account of the discovery of another America!</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_89"></A><A href="#fnref_89">89</A> [&quot;The Roman
+Circus (says M. Licquet) is now departmental property. Many
+excavations have already taken place under the directions of Mons.
+Le Baron de Vanssay, the present Prefect of the Department. The
+most happy results may be anticipated. It was in a neighbouring
+property that an ANTIQUE BRONZE GILT STATUE, of the size of life,
+was lately found,&quot; vol. i. 194. Of this statue, Mr. Samuel
+Woodburn, (with that spirit of liberality and love of art which
+have uniformly characterised his purchases) became the Owner. The
+sum advanced for it was very considerable; but, in one sense, Mr.
+W. may be said to have stood as the Representative of his country;
+for the French Government declining to give the Proprietor the sum
+which he asked, Mr. Woodburn purchased it--solely with the view of
+depositing it, on the same terms of purchase, in a NATIONAL GALLERY
+OF ART, of which the bequest of Mr. Payne Knight&#39;s ancient
+bronzes and coins, and the purchase of Mr. Angerstein&#39;s
+pictures, might be supposed to lay the foundation.</P>
+
+<P>This statue was accordingly brought over to England, and freely
+exhibited to the curious admirers of ancient art. It is the figure
+of an APOLLO--the left arm, extended to hold the lyre, being
+mutilated. A portion of the limbs is also mutilated; but the torso,
+head and legs, are entire: and are, of their kind, of the highest
+class of art. Overtures were made for its purchase by government.
+The Trustees of the British Museum were unanimous both in their
+admiration and recommendation of it: it was indeed &quot;strongly
+recommended&quot; by them to the Treasury. Several months however
+elapsed before an answer could be obtained; and that answer, when
+it <EM>did</EM> come, was returned in THE NEGATIVE. The
+disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of success, was the
+least thing felt by its owner. It was the necessity of transporting
+it, in consequence, to enrich a <EM>rival capital</EM>--which, were
+its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it must be confessed,
+makes us frequently blush for the comparative want of energy and
+liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT ART.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_90"></A><A href="#fnref_90">90</A> Mr. Cotman has a
+view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci Castle.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_91"></A><A href="#fnref_91">91</A> I am not sure
+whether this inn be called the <EM>Armes de France</EM>, or as
+above.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_92"></A><A href="#fnref_92">92</A> Evelyn, who
+visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de Richlieu was governor,
+describes the citadel as &quot;strong and regular, well stored with
+artillery, &amp;c. The works furnished with faire brass canon,
+having a motto, &quot;<EM>Ratio ultima Regum</EM>.&quot; The haven
+is very spacious.&quot; <EM>Life and Writings of John Evelyn</EM>,
+edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 51. Havre seems always to have been a place
+of note and distinction in more senses than one. In Zeiller&#39;s
+<EM>Topographia Galliae,</EM> (vol. iii.) there is a view of it,
+about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques Gomboust,
+Ingénieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very
+considerable place. Forty- two principal buildings and places are
+referred to in the directions; and among them we observe the
+BOULEVARDS DE RICHELIEU.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_93"></A><A href="#fnref_93">93</A> It was so in
+Evelyn&#39;s time: in 1644, &quot;It is a poore fisher towne (says
+he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull habites
+which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of raggs
+at Dieppe, and all along these coasts.&quot; <EM>Life and Writings
+of J. Evelyn</EM>; 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 51.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_94"></A><A href="#fnref_94">94</A> [It is near a
+chapel, on one of the heights of this town, that Mr. Washington
+Irving fixes one of his most exquisitely drawn characters, ANNETTE
+DELABRE, as absorbed in meditation and prayer respecting the fate
+of her lover; and I have a distinct recollection of a beautiful
+piece of composition, by one of our most celebrated artists, in
+which the <EM>Heights of Honfleur</EM>, with women kneeling before
+a crucifix in the foreground, formed a most beautiful composition.
+The name of the artist (was it the younger Mr. Chalon?) I have
+forgotten.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_95"></A><A href="#fnref_95">95</A> [My translator
+says, &quot;un Wynkyn de Worde non coupé:&quot; Qu. Would not the
+<EM>Debure</EM> Vocabulary have said &quot;non rogné?&quot;]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_96"></A><A href="#fnref_96">96</A> [&quot;Besides
+her numerous public schools, Caen possesses two Schools of Art--one
+for design, the other for Architecture and Ornament--where the
+Students are <EM>gratuitously</EM> instructed.&quot; LICQUET.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_97"></A><A href="#fnref_97">97</A> It is called
+<EM>Vin Huet</EM>--and is the last wine which a traveller will be
+disposed to ask for. When Henry IV. passed through the town, he
+could not conceive why such excellent grapes should produce such
+execrable wine. I owe this intelligence to Mons. LICQUET.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_98"></A><A href="#fnref_98">98</A> Somewhere about
+150 English acres.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_99"></A><A href="#fnref_99">99</A> [I had before
+said <EM>twenty</EM>--but Mons. Licquet observes, I might have
+said--thirty thousand pairs of hands.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_100"></A><A href="#fnref_100">100</A> Caen was
+celebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. Consult
+BOURGUEVILLE: <EM>Antiquitez de Caen</EM>; 1588, 8vo. p. 26.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_101"></A><A href="#fnref_101">101</A> The fauxbourgs
+of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy contrast to what
+they appear to have done in the middle of the XVIth century.
+Consult the pleasantly penned description of these fauxbourgs by
+the first topographer of the place, BOURGUEVILLE: in his
+<EM>Antiquitez de Caen</EM>, pp. 5, 6, 26.</P>
+
+<P>It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority,
+that long after the time even of the publication just referred to,
+the town of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone
+walls--upon the tops of which three men could walk a-breast: and
+from thence the inhabitants could discern, across those large and
+beautiful gardens, &quot;the vessels sailing in the river Orne, and
+unloading their cargoes by the sides of walls.&quot; It appears
+indeed to have been a sort of lounge, or fashionable promenade--by
+means of various ladders for the purposes of ascent and
+descent.</P>
+
+<P>Among the old prints and bird&#39;s-eye views of Caen, which I
+saw in the collection of DE BOZE at the Royal Library at Paris,
+there is one accompanied by three pages of printed description,
+which begins with the lines of Guillaume Breton &quot;Villa potens,
+opulenta, situ spatiosa decora.&quot; See First Edition, vol. i. p.
+274. Evelyn, in 1644, thus describes the town of Caen. &quot;The
+whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well
+knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden,
+planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the entrance, at an
+exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke, with well
+understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes,
+and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &amp;c. <EM>Life and
+Writings of J. Evelyn</EM>, 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 52.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_102"></A><A href="#fnref_102">102</A> See the
+OPPOSITE PLATE.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_103"></A><A href="#fnref_103">103</A> It was a
+similar dépôt in Ducarel&#39;s time.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_104"></A><A href="#fnref_104">104</A> The story was
+in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by M.
+Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with
+a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the
+obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he
+frankly allowed that &quot;Monsieur l&#39;Anglois se conduisait
+bien.&quot;</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_105"></A><A href="#fnref_105">105</A> [The affair is
+now scarcely remembered; and the successful champion died a natural
+death within about three years afterwards. Mons. Licquet slenderly
+doubts portions of this tragical tale: but I have good reason to
+believe that it is not an exaggerated one. As to what occurred
+<EM>after</EM> the death of one of the combatants, I am unwilling
+to revive unpleasant sensations by its recapitulation.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_106"></A><A href="#fnref_106">106</A> Bourgueville
+seems bitterly to lament the substitution of wells for fountains.
+He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his own estimation, whereby
+this desirable object might be effected: and then retorts upon his
+townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at
+<EM>Lisieux, Falaise and Vire</EM>--of which the inhabitants
+&quot;n&#39;ont rien espargné pour auoir ceste decoration et
+commodité en leurs villes.&quot;--spiritedly adding--&quot; si
+j&#39;estois encore en auctorité, j&#39;y ferois mon pouuoir, et ie
+y offre de mes biens.&quot; p. 17.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_107"></A><A href="#fnref_107">107</A> [I am most
+prompt to plead guilty to a species of <EM>Hippopotamos</EM> error,
+in having here translated the word <EM>Allemagne</EM> into GERMANY!
+Now, although this translation, per se, be correct, yet, as
+applicable to the text, it is most incorrect--as the
+<EM>Allemagne</EM> in question happens to be a <EM>Parish in the
+neighbourhood of Caen</EM>! My translator, in turn, treats me
+somewhat tenderly when he designates this as &quot;une méprise fort
+singulière.&quot; vol. ii. p. 25.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_108"></A><A href="#fnref_108">108</A> The plate of
+Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his work;
+affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an idea
+of one of the most disproportioned, ugly buildings imaginable. Mr.
+Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front,
+and of the elevation of compartments of the Nave; The former is at
+once faithful and magnificent; but the lower part wants
+characteristic markings.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_109"></A><A href="#fnref_109">109</A> It should be
+noticed that, &quot;besides the immense benefactions which William
+in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death,
+presented thereto the <EM>crown</EM> which he used to wear at all
+high festivals, together with his <EM>sceptre and rod</EM>: a cup
+set with precious stones; his candlesticks of gold, and all his
+regalia: as also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his
+back.&quot; <EM>Anglo-Norman Antiquities</EM>, p. 51. note. The
+story of the breaking open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and
+finding the Conqueror&#39;s remains, is told by Bourgueville--who
+was an <EM>eye witness</EM> of these depredations, and who tried to
+&quot;soften the obdurate hearts&quot; of the pillagers, but in
+vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that, in his time
+&quot;the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious stained-glass
+windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and
+destroyed--and that the seats, chairs, &amp;c. and all other wooden
+materials were consumed by fire,&quot; p.171. Huet observes that a
+&quot;Dom Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie,&quot;
+religious of St. Stephen&#39;s, took care of the monument of the
+Conqueror in the year 1642, and replaced it in the state in which
+it appeared in Huet&#39;s time.&quot; <EM>Origines de Caen</EM>;
+p.248. The revolution was still more terrible than the Calvinistic
+fury;--for no traces of the monument are now to be seen.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_110"></A><A href="#fnref_110">110</A> The west
+window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ built
+close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This organ
+is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &amp;c.
+<EM>Ducarel</EM>, p.57. He then goes on to observe, that
+&quot;amongst the plate preserved in the treasury of this church,
+is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten inches in diameter, gilt, and
+inlaid with antique medals. Tradition assures us, that it was on
+this salver, that king William the conqueror placed the foundation
+charter of the abbey when he presented it, at the high altar, on
+the dedication of the church. The edges of this salver, which
+stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a little turned up,
+and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal; on the obverse
+whereof is this legend,
+<!-- [Greek: Ausander Aukonos] -->
+&#913;&#965;&#963;&#945;&#957;&#948;&#949;&#961;
+&#913;&#965;&#954;&#959;&#957;&#959;&#962;
+but it being
+fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other medals,
+forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite
+through; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the
+medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest
+preservation.&quot;</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_111"></A><A href="#fnref_111">111</A> Yet
+Bourgueville&#39;s description of the group, as it appeared in his
+time, trips up the heels of his own conjecture. He says that there
+were, besides the two figures above mentioned, &quot;vn autre homme
+et femme à genoux, comme s&#39;ils demandoient raison de la mort de
+leur enfant, qui est vne antiquité de grand remarque dont je ne
+puis donner autre certitude de l&#39;histoire.&quot; <EM>Antiquitez
+de Caen</EM>; p.39. Now, it is this additional portion of the group
+(at present no longer in existence) which should seem to confirm
+the conjecture of my friend Mr. Douce--that it is a representation
+of the received story, in the middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan
+being met by a widow who demanded justice against the murderer of
+her son. The Emperor, who had just mounted his horse to set out
+upon some hostile expedition, replied, that &quot;he would listen
+to her on his return.&quot; The woman said, &quot;What, if you
+never return?&quot; &quot;My successor will satisfy you&quot;--he
+replied--&quot;But how will that benefit you,&quot;--resumed the
+widow. The Emperor then descended from his horse, and enquiring
+into the woman&#39;s case, caused justice to be done to her. Some
+of the stories say that the murderer was the Emperor&#39;s own
+son.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_112"></A><A href="#fnref_112">112</A> [Since the
+publication of the first edition of this work, the figure in
+question has appeared from the pencil and burin of Mr. Cotman; of
+which the only fault, as it strikes me, is, that the surface is too
+rough-- or the effect too sketchy.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_113"></A><A href="#fnref_113">113</A> Bourgueville
+has minutely described it in his <EM>Antiquities</EM>; and his
+description is copied in the preceding edition of this work.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_114"></A><A href="#fnref_114">114</A> Bourgueville
+is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account of the
+tower, &amp;c. He says that he had &quot;seen towers at Paris,
+Rouen, Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens,
+Chartres, Angiers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those
+of St. Stephen at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France,
+which are built in a pyramidal form--but THIS TOWER OT ST. PETER
+exceeded all the others, as well in its height, as in its curious
+form of construction.&quot; <EM>Antiq. de Caen</EM>; p.36. He
+regrets, however, that the <EM>name of the architect</EM> has not
+descended to us. [It is right to correct an error, in the preceding
+edition, which has been committed on the authority of Ducarel. That
+Antiquary supposed the tower and spire to have been built by the
+generosity of one NICHOLAS, an ENGLISHMAN.&quot; Mons. Licquet has,
+I think, reclaimed the true author of such munificence, as his
+<EM>own</EM> countryman.--NICOLAS LANGLOIS:--whose name thus occurs
+in his epitaph, preserved by Bourgueville.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Le Vendredi, devant tout droict</EM><BR>
+<EM>La Saint Cler que le temps n&#39;est froit,</EM><BR>
+<EM>Trespassa</EM> NICOLLE L&#39;ANGLOIS,<BR>
+<EM>L&#39;an Mil Trois Cens et Dix Sept.</EM>]<BR>
+&amp;c. &amp;c.</P>
+
+<P>Reverting, to old BOURGUEVILLE, I cannot take leave of him
+without expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and
+information which his unostentatious octavo volume--entitled
+<EM>Les Recherches et Antiquitez de la Ville et Université de Caen,
+&amp;c</EM>. (à Caen, 1588, 8vo.) has afforded me.</P>
+
+<P>The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the
+most critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he
+wrote. His plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely
+simple. Nor does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient
+volumes of topography are invaluable--as preserving the memory of
+things and of objects, which, but for such record, had perished
+without the hope or chance of recovery.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_115"></A><A href="#fnref_115">115</A> [Ten years
+have elapsed since this sentence was written, and the experience
+gained in those years only confirms the truth (according to the
+conception of the author) of the above assertion. Such a tower and
+spire, if found in England, must be looked for in Salisbury
+Cathedral; but though this latter be much loftier, it is stiff,
+cold, and formal, comparatively with that of which the text makes
+mention.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_116"></A><A href="#fnref_116">116</A> [For six
+months in the year--that is to say, from Lady Day till Michaelmas
+Day--this great Bell tolls, at a quarter before ten, as a
+curfew.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_117"></A><A href="#fnref_117">117</A> A plate of it
+may be found in the publication of Mr. Dawson Turner, and of Mr.
+Cotman.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_118"></A><A href="#fnref_118">118</A> Of this
+building Mr. Cotman has published the West front, east end,
+exterior and interior; great arches under the tower; crypt; east
+side of south transept; elevation of the North side of the choir:
+elevation of the window; South side exterior; view down the nave,
+N.W. direction.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_119"></A><A href="#fnref_119">119</A> Bourgueville
+describes the havoc which took place within this abbey at the
+memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the
+church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 172,) they proceeded
+to commit similar ravages here:--&quot;sans auoir respect ni
+reuerence à la Dame Abbesse, ni à la religion et douceur feminine
+des Dames Religieuses.&quot;-- &quot;plusieurs des officiers de la
+maison s&#39;y trouucrent, vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour
+penser flechir le coeur de ces plus que brutaux;&quot; p. 174.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_120"></A><A href="#fnref_120">120</A> Unless it be
+what he calls &quot;the FORT OF THE HOLY TRINITY of Caen; in which
+was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose
+annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles,
+king of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried
+on against Charles the Dauphin, afterwards Charles V.,
+&amp;c.&quot; <EM>Anglo-Norman Antiquities</EM>, p. 67. This
+castle, or the building once flanked by the walls above described,
+was twice taken by the English; once in 1346, when they made an
+immense booty, and loaded their ships with the gold and silver
+vessels found therein; and the second time in 1417, when they
+established themselves as masters of the place for 33 years.
+<EM>Annuaire du Calvados</EM>; 1803-4; p. 63.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_121"></A><A href="#fnref_121">121</A> <EM>Mémoires
+de l&#39;Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques Manoury,
+1757, 4 vols. crown 8vo. Rapport générale sur les travaux de
+l&#39;Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la ville de
+Caen, jusqu&#39;au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P.F.T. Delariviere,
+Secrétaire. A Caen, chez Chalopin</EM>. An. 1811-15. 2 vols. on
+different paper, with different types, and provokingly of a larger
+form than its precursor.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_122"></A><A href="#fnref_122">122</A> [On consulting
+the Addenda of the preceding edition, it will be seen that this
+work appeared in the year 1820, under the title of <EM>Essais
+Historiques sur la Ville de Caen et son Arondissement</EM>, in 2
+small octavo volumes. With the exception of two or three
+indifferent plates of relics of sculpture, and of titles with
+armorial bearings, this work is entirely divested of ornament.
+There are some useful historical details in it, taken from the
+examination of records and the public archives; but a HISTORY of
+CAEN is yet a desideratum.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_123"></A><A href="#fnref_123">123</A> [By the favour
+of our common friend Mr. Douce, I have obtained permission to
+enrich these pages with the PORTRAIT of this distinguished
+Archaeologist, from an original Drawing in the possession of the
+same friend. See the OPPOSITE PLATE.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_124"></A><A href="#fnref_124">124</A> He has
+recently (1816) published an octavo volume entitled
+&quot;<EM>Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligènes Flexibles,
+vulgairement nommés Zoophytes. Par J.V.F. Lamouroux</EM>. From one
+of his Epistles, I subjoin a fac-simile of his autograph.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/237.png" alt="Lamouroux"></DIV>
+
+<P><A name="fn_125"></A><A href="#fnref_125">125</A> The medallic
+project here alluded to is one which does both the projector, and
+the arts of France, infinite honour; and I sincerely wish that some
+second SIMON may rise up among ourselves to emulate, and if
+possible to surpass, the performances of GATTEAUX and AUDRIEU. The
+former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of
+Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Bonaparte medals.
+[Has my friend Mr. Hawkins, of the Museum, abandoned all thoughts
+of his magnificent project connected with such a NATIONAL
+WORK?]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_126"></A><A href="#fnref_126">126</A> See
+post--under the running title Bayeux.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_127"></A><A href="#fnref_127">127</A> See page 172
+ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_128"></A><A href="#fnref_128">128</A> It is
+described in the 2d vol. of the ÆDES ALTHORPIANÆ; forming the
+Supplement to the BIBLIOTHECA SPENCERIANA: see page 94.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_129"></A><A href="#fnref_129">129</A> Goube, in his
+<EM>Histoire du Duché de Normandie</EM>, 1815, 8vo. has devoted
+upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies; vol.
+iii. p. 295. But in <EM>Huet&#39;s Origines de la Ville de
+Caen;</EM> p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and
+satisfactory details.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_130"></A><A href="#fnref_130">130</A> I am furnished
+with the above particulars from a <EM>Notice Historique</EM> of
+Moysant.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_131"></A><A href="#fnref_131">131</A> [A copy of
+this Roman Edition of 1542, of equal purity and amplitude, is in
+the library of the Rev. Mr Hawtrey of Eton College: obtained of
+Messrs. Payne and Foss.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_132"></A><A href="#fnref_132">132</A> When I was at
+Paris in the year 1819, I strove hard to obtain from Messrs. Debure
+the copy of this work, UPON VELLUM, which they had purchased at the
+sale of the Macarthy Library. But it was destined for the Royal
+Library, and is described in the <EM>Cat. des Livres Imp. sur
+Vélin</EM>, vol. i. p. 263.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_133"></A><A href="#fnref_133">133</A> [Twenty-eight
+years have passed away since I kept my terms at Lincoln&#39;s Inn
+with a view of being called to THE BAR; and at this moment I have a
+perfect recollection of the countenances and manner of Messrs.
+Bearcroft, Erskine, and Mingay,--the pitted champions of the
+King&#39;s Bench-- whom I was in the repeated habit of attending
+within that bustling and ever agitated arena. Their wit, their
+repartee--the broad humour of Mingay, and the lightning-like
+quickness of Erskine, with the more caustic and authoritative dicta
+of Bearcroft--delighted and instructed me by turns. In the year
+1797 I published, in one large chart, an <EM>Analysis of the first
+volume of Blackstone&#39;s Commentaries</EM>--called THE RIGHTS OF
+PERSONS. It was dedicated to Mr. (afterwards Lord) Erskine; and
+published, as will be easily conceived, with more zeal than
+discretion. I got out of the scrape by selling the copper plate for
+50 shillings, after having given 40 guineas for the engraving of
+the Analysis. Some fifty copies of the work were sold, and 250 were
+struck off. Where the surplus have lain, and rotted, I cannot
+pretend to conjecture: but I know it to be a VERY RARE
+production!]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_134"></A><A href="#fnref_134">134</A> [So in the
+preceding Edition. He who writes notes on his own performances
+after a lapse of ten years, will generally have something to add,
+and something to correct. Of the above names, the FIRST was
+afterwards attached to the <EM>Master of the Rolls</EM>, and to a
+<EM>Peerage</EM>: with the intervening honour of having been
+<EM>Chief Justice of the Common Pleas</EM>. My admiration of this
+rapid elevation in an honourable profession will not be called
+singular; for, after an acquaintance of twenty years with Lord
+Gifford, I can honestly say, that, while his reputation as a
+Lawyer, and his advancement in his profession, were only what his
+friends predicted, his character as a MAN continued the same:--
+kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and generous. He died, &#39;ere
+he had attained his 48th year, in 1826.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_135"></A><A href="#fnref_135">135</A> [Mons. Licquet
+supposes the crypt and the arcades of the nave to be of the latter
+end of the eleventh century,--built by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, and
+Brother of William the Conqueror; and that the other portions were
+of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. I have very
+great doubts indeed of any portion being of a date even so early as
+1170.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_136"></A><A href="#fnref_136">136</A> [Another
+demonstration of the fickleness and changeableness of all mundane
+affairs. Mr. Stothard, after a successful execution of his great
+task, has ceased to be among us. His widow published his life, with
+an account of his labours, in a quarto volume in 1823. Mr.
+Stothard&#39;s <EM>Monumental Effigies</EM>, now on the eve of
+completion, is a work which will carry his name down to the latest
+posterity, as one of the most interesting, tasteful, and accurate
+of antiquarian productions. See a subsequent note.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_137"></A><A href="#fnref_137">137</A> See page 12,
+ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_138"></A><A href="#fnref_138">138</A> [&quot;That
+was true, when M. Dibdin wrote his account; now, the number must be
+reduced one half.&quot; LICQUET, vol. ii. p. 121.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_139"></A><A href="#fnref_139">139</A> Cette église
+... étoit sans contredit une des plus riches de France en vases
+d&#39;or, d&#39;argent, et de pierreries; en reliques et en
+ornemens. Le procès-verbal qui avoit été dressé de toutes ses
+richesses, en 1476, contient un détail qui va presque à
+l&#39;infini.&quot; Bezières, <EM>Hist. Sommaire</EM>, p. 51.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_140"></A><A href="#fnref_140">140</A> [But ONE
+letter has passed between us since this separation. That letter,
+however, only served to cement the friendliness of our feelings
+towards each other. M. Pierre Aimé Lair had heard of the manner in
+which his name had been introduced into these pages, and wished a
+copy of the work to be deposited in the public library at Caen.
+Whether it be so deposited, I have never learnt. In 1827, this
+amiable man visited England; and I saw him only during the time of
+an ordinary morning visit. His stay was necessarily short, and his
+residence was remote. I returned his visit-- but he was away. There
+are few things in life more gratifying than the conviction of
+living in the grateful remembrance of the wise and the good; and
+THAT gratification it is doubtless my happiness to enjoy--as far as
+relates to Mons. PIERRE AIMÉ LAIR!]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_141"></A><A href="#fnref_141">141</A> [Mr. Cotman
+has an excellent engraving of it.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_142"></A><A href="#fnref_142">142</A> He has since
+established himself at Paris, near the Luxembourg palace, as a
+<EM>bookseller</EM>; and it is scarcely three months since I
+received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no
+longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart--and that the
+phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard
+and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at
+Bayeux, has purchased books of him at Paris. [The preceding in
+1820.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_143"></A><A href="#fnref_143">143</A> Mr. Stothard,
+Jun. See page 221 ante. Mr. S&#39;s own account of the tapestry may
+be seen in the XIXth volume of the Archæologia. It is brief,
+perspicuous, and satisfactory. His fac-simile is one half the size
+of the original; executed with great neatness and fidelity; but
+probably the touches are a <EM>little</EM> too artist-like or
+masterly.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_144"></A><A href="#fnref_144">144</A> [The facsimile
+of that portion of the tapestry which is supposed to be a portrait
+of Harold, and which Mr. Lewis, who travelled with me, executed, is
+perhaps of its kind, one of the most perfect things extant. In
+saying this, I only deliver the opinions of very many competent
+judges. It must however be noticed, that the Society of Antiquaries
+published the whole series of this exceedingly curious and ancient
+Representation of the Conquest of our Country by William I. Of this
+publication, the figures measure about four inches in height: but
+there is also a complete, and exceedingly successful fac-simile of
+the first two figures of this series-- of the size of the originals
+(William I. and the Messenger coming to announce to him the landing
+of Harold in England) also published from the same quarter. The
+whole of these Drawings were from the pencil of the late ingenious
+and justly lamented THOS. STOTHARD, Esq. Draftsman to the Society
+of Antiquaries.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_145"></A><A href="#fnref_145">145</A> A complete
+copy is of rarity in our own country, but not so abroad. It is yet,
+however, an imperfect work.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_146"></A><A href="#fnref_146">146</A> There have
+been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing book- collectors,
+who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic impression of
+Sir T. More&#39;s Works of 1698; in folio. But this must proceed
+from sheer obstinacy; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that the
+latter edition contains the <EM>Utopia</EM>--whereas in the former
+it is unaccountably omitted to be reprinted--which it might have
+been, from various previous editions.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_147"></A><A href="#fnref_147">147</A> This figure is
+introduced with pursuivants and dogs: but great liberties, as a
+nice eye will readily discern, have been taken by Montfaucon, when
+compared with the original--of which the fac-simile, in the
+previous edition of this work, may be pronounced to be PERFECT.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_148"></A><A href="#fnref_148">148</A> Something
+similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase of St.
+Louis, in Millin&#39;s <EM>Antiquités Nationales</EM>. A part of
+the border in the Tapestry is a representation of subjects from
+Aesop&#39;s Fables.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_149"></A><A href="#fnref_149">149</A> Of a monument,
+which has been pronounced by one of our ablest antiquaries to be
+&quot;THE NOBLEST IN THE WORLD RELATING TO OUR OLD ENGLISH
+HISTORY,&quot; (See <EM>Stukely&#39;s Palæog. Britan.</EM> Number
+XI. 1746, 4to. p. 2- 3) it may be expected that some archæological
+discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that,
+after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyot, (and more
+especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter--as to the
+period of its execution--may be considered as well nigh, if not
+wholly, at rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XIXth
+volumes of the Archæologia. The Abbé de la Rue contended that this
+Tapestry was worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the
+Empress Maud, which would bring it to the earlier part of the XIIth
+century. The antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater
+probability, that it is a performance of the period which it
+professes to commemorate; namely, of the defeat of Harold at the
+battle of Hastings, and consequently of the acquiring of the Crown
+of England, by conquest, on the part of William. This latter
+therefore brings it to the period of about 1066, to 1088--so that,
+after all, the difference of opinion is only whether this Tapestry
+be fifty years older or younger, than the respective advocates
+contend.</P>
+
+<P>But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the
+most satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular
+historical monument, is entitled, &quot;<EM>A Defence of the early
+Antiquity of the Bayeux Tapestry</EM>,&quot; by Thomas Amyot, Esq.
+immediately following Mr. Stothard&#39;s communication, in the work
+just referred to. It is at direct issue with all the hypotheses of
+the Abbé de la Rue, and in my opinion the results are triumphantly
+established. Whether the <EM>Normans</EM> or the <EM>English</EM>
+worked it, is perfectly a secondary consideration. The chief
+objections, taken by the Abbé, against its being a production of
+the XIth century, consist in, first, its not being mentioned among
+the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his decease:--secondly,
+that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the church, it must have
+suffered, if not have been annihilated, at the storming of Bayeux
+and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the reign of Henry
+I., A.D. 1106:--thirdly, the silence of <EM>Wace</EM> upon the
+subject,--who wrote his metrical histories nearly a century after
+the Tapestry is supposed to have been executed.&quot; The latter is
+chiefly insisted upon by the learned Abbé; who, which ever champion
+come off victorious in this archæological warfare, must at any rate
+receive the best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and
+erudite manner in which he has conducted his attacks.</P>
+
+<P>At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbé de
+la Rue&#39;s positions are all of a <EM>negative</EM> character;
+and that, according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be
+admitted, that because such and such writers have <EM>not</EM>
+noticed a circumstance, therefore that circumstance or event cannot
+have taken place. The first two grounds of objection have, I think,
+been fairly set aside by Mr. Amyot. As to the third objection, Mr.
+A. remarks--&quot;But it seems that Wace has not only <EM>not</EM>
+quoted the tapestry, but has varied from it in a manner which
+proves that he had never seen it. The instances given of this
+variation are, however, a little unfortunate. The first of them is
+very unimportant, for the difference merely consists in placing a
+figure at the <EM>stern</EM> instead of the <EM>prow</EM> of a
+ship, and in giving him a bow instead of a trumpet. From an
+authority quoted by the Abbé himself, it appears that, with regard
+to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was wrong;
+and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of the
+superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of
+variation, namely, that relating to Taillefer&#39;s sword, may be
+easily dismissed; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr.
+Stothard&#39;s examination, that neither Taillefer nor his sword is
+to be found in the Tapestry,&quot; &amp;c. But it is chiefly from
+the names of ÆLFGYVA and WADARD, inscribed over some of the
+figures, that I apprehend the conclusion in favour of the
+Tapestry&#39;s being nearly a contemporaneous production, may be
+safely drawn.</P>
+
+<P>It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when
+the work was in progress, or within the recollection of the
+workers, and that they were attached to persons of some particular
+note or celebrity, or rather perhaps of <EM>local</EM> importance.
+An eyewitness, or a contemporary only would have introduced them.
+They would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether
+mechanic or historian, who lived a <EM>century</EM> after the
+event. No antiquary has yet fairly appropriated these names, and
+more especially the second. It follows therefore that they would
+not have been introduced had they not been in existence at the
+time; and in confirmation of that of WADARD, it seems that Mr.
+Henry Ellis (Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries)
+&quot;confirmed Mr. Amyot&#39;s conjecture on that subject, by the
+references with which he furnished him to <EM>Domesday Book</EM>,
+where his name occurs in no less than six counties, as holding
+lands of large extent under <EM>Odo</EM>, Bishop of Bayeux, the
+tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was
+not a <EM>guard</EM> or <EM>centinel,</EM> as the Abbé de la Rue
+supposes, but that he held an <EM>office of rank</EM> in the
+household of either William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a
+doubt.&quot; Mr. Amyot thus spiritedly concludes:--alluding to the
+successful completion of Mr. Stothard&#39;s copy of the entire
+original roll.--&quot;Yet if the BAYEUX TAPESTRY be not history of
+the first class, it is perhaps something better. It exhibits
+general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the costume and
+manners of that age, which, of all others, if we except the period
+of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to us;--that
+age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with them new
+landholders, new laws, and almost a new language.&quot;</P>
+
+<P>Mr. Amyot has subjoined a specimen of his own poetical powers in
+describing &quot;the Minstrel TAILLEFER&#39;S achievements,&quot;
+in the battle of Hastings, from the old Norman lays of GAIMAR and
+WACE. I can only find room for the first few verses. The poem is
+entitled,</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">THE ONSET OF TAILLEFER.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Foremost in the bands of France,<BR>
+Arm&#39;d with hauberk and with lance,<BR>
+And helmet glittering in the air,<BR>
+As if a warrior knight he were,<BR>
+Rush&#39;d forth the MINSTREL TAILLEFER<BR>
+Borne on his courser swift and strong,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">He gaily bounded o&#39;er the plain,</SPAN><BR>
+And raised the heart-inspiring song<BR>
+(Loud echoed by the warlike throng)<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Of <EM>Roland</EM> and of
+<EM>Charlemagne</EM>,</SPAN><BR>
+Of <EM>Oliver</EM>, brave peer of old,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Untaught to fly, unknown to yield,</SPAN><BR>
+And many a Knight and Vassal bold,<BR>
+Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Dyed <EM>Roncevalle&#39;s</EM>
+field.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_150"></A><A href="#fnref_150">150</A> M. Denon told
+me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the commands of
+Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this Tapestry for
+three months; that it was displayed in due form and ceremony in the
+Museum; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of it, (which he
+admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he returned it
+to Bayeux--as it was considered to be the peculiar property of that
+place.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_151"></A><A href="#fnref_151">151</A> See p. 109
+ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_152"></A><A href="#fnref_152">152</A> See page 13
+ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_153"></A><A href="#fnref_153">153</A> Mr. Cotman has
+a view of this church, in his work on Normandy.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_154"></A><A href="#fnref_154">154</A> I suspect that
+the &quot;peaceful&quot; waters of this stream were frequently died
+with the blood of Hugonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce
+contests between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON, towards the latter half
+of the sixteenth century. At that period St. Lo was one of the
+strongest towns in the Bocage; and the very pass above described,
+was the avenue by which the soldiers of the captains, just
+mentioned, alternately advanced and retreated in their respective
+attacks upon St. Lo: which at length surrendered to the victorious
+army of the <EM>latter</EM>; the leader of the Catholics. SEGUIN:
+<EM>Histoire Militaire des Bocains</EM>; <EM>p. 340- 384</EM>;
+1816, <EM>12 mo</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_155"></A><A href="#fnref_155">155</A> The reader
+will be doubtless gratified by the artist-like view of this
+cathedral, by Mr. Cotman, in his <EM>Architectural Antiquities of
+Normandy</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_156"></A><A href="#fnref_156">156</A> It cannot fail
+to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact <EM>rhyming
+verse</EM>, though printed prose-wise.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_157"></A><A href="#fnref_157">157</A> The reader
+will find the fullest particulars relating to this
+once-distinguished family, in <EM>Halstead&#39;s Genealogical
+Memoirs of Noble Families, &amp;c</EM>.: a book it is true, of
+extreme scarcity. In lieu of it let him consult <EM>Collin&#39;s
+Noble Families</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_158"></A><A href="#fnref_158">158</A> [Mons. Licquet
+tells us, that in 1439, a Seigneur of Gratot, ceded the rock of
+Granville to an English Nobleman, on the day of St. John the
+Baptist, on receiving the homage of a hat of red roses. The
+Nobleman intended to build a town there; but Henry VI. dispossessed
+him of it, and built fortifications in 1440. Charles VII. in turn,
+dispossessed Henry; but the additional fortifications which he
+built were demolished by order of Louis XIV. &amp;c.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_159"></A><A href="#fnref_159">159</A> An epitomised
+account of these civil commotions will be found in the <EM>Histoire
+Militaire des Bocains, par</EM> M. RICHARD SEGUIN; <EM>a Vire</EM>,
+1816; 12mo. of which work, and of its author, some notice will be
+taken in the following pages.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_160"></A><A href="#fnref_160">160</A> &quot;<EM>Les
+Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Français, par Aug. A</EM>. Se
+vend à Vire, chez Adam imprimeur-lib. An. 1809. The reader may not
+be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these
+distichs into French verse:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">1.<BR>
+Dum tener es, MURETE, avidis hæc auribus hauri:<BR>
+Nec memori modò conde animo, sed et exprime factis.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">2.<BR>
+Imprimis venerare Deum; venerare parentes:<BR>
+Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum.<BR>
+&amp;c.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">1.<BR>
+<EM>Jeune encore, ô mon fils! pour être homme de bien,<BR>
+Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">2.<BR>
+<EM>Sers, honors le Dieu qui créa tous les êtres;<BR>
+Sois fils respectueux, sois docile à tes maîtres.<BR>
+&amp;c</EM>.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_161"></A><A href="#fnref_161">161</A> [Smartly and
+felicitously rendered by my translator Mons. Licquet; &quot;Jamais
+bouche Normande ne m&#39;avait paru plus éloquente que celle de M.
+Adam.&quot; vol. ii. p. 220.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_162"></A><A href="#fnref_162">162</A> The present
+seems to be the proper place to give the reader some account of
+this once famous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that France
+rests her pretensions to poetical celebrity upon such claims. Love,
+romantic adventures, gaiety of heart and of disposition, form the
+chief materials of her minor poems; but we have here before us, in
+the person and productions of OLIVIER BASSELIN, a rival to ANACREON
+of old; to our own RICHARD BRAITHWAIT, VINCENT BOURNE, and THOMAS
+MOORE. As this volume may not be of general notoriety, the reader
+may be prepared to receive an account of its contents with the
+greater readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and
+occupations of Olivier Basselin; which, as Goujet has entirely
+passed over all notice of him, we can gather only from the editors
+of the present edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been
+a <EM>Virois</EM>; in other words, an inhabitant of the town of
+Vire. But he had a strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred
+the immediate vicinity of Vire--its quiet little valleys, running
+streams, and rocky recesses--to a more open and more distant
+residence. In such places, therefore, he carried with him his
+flasks of cider and his flagons of wine. Thither he resorted with
+his &quot;boon and merry companions,&quot; and there he poured
+forth his ardent and unpremeditated strains. These
+&quot;strains&quot; all savoured of the jovial propensities of
+their author; it being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment,
+whether connected with friendship or love, is admitted into his
+compositions. He was the thorough-bred Anacreon of France at the
+close of the fifteenth century.</P>
+
+<P>The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation,
+is the chief town of that department of Normandy called the BOCAGE;
+and in this department few places have been, of old, more
+celebrated than the <EM>Vaux de Vire</EM>; on account of the number
+of manufactories which have existed there from time immemorial. It
+derives its name from two principal valleys, in the form of a T, of
+which the base (if it may be so called--&quot;jambage&quot;) rests
+upon the <EM>Place du Chateau de Vire</EM>. It is sufficiently
+contiguous to the town to be considered among the fauxbourgs. The
+rivers <EM>Vire</EM> and <EM>Viréne</EM>, which unite at the bridge
+of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are
+flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the XVth
+century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition.
+Indeed, BASSELIN himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this
+valley he passed his life in fulling his cloths, and &quot;in
+composing those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the
+volume under consideration.&quot; <EM>Discours Préliminaire</EM>,
+p. 17, &amp;c. Olivier Basselin is the parent of the title
+<EM>Vaudevire--</EM> which has since been corrupted into
+<EM>Vaudeville</EM>. From the observation of his critics, Basselin
+appears to have been the FATHER of BACCHANALIAN POETRY in France.
+He frequented public festivals, and was a welcome guest at the
+tables of the rich; where the Vaudevire was in such request, that
+it is supposed to have superseded the &quot;Conte, or Fabliau, or
+the Chanson d&#39;Amour.&quot;<A name="fnref_B"></A><A href=
+"#fn_B">B</A> p. xviij:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Sur ce point-là, soyez tranquille:<BR>
+Nos neveux, j&#39;én suis bien certain,<BR>
+Se souviendront de BASSELIN,<BR>
+<EM>Pere joyeux du Vaudeville:</EM> p. xxiij.</P>
+
+<P>I proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this ancient
+ANACREON of France; and must necessarily begin with a few of those
+that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>VAUDEVIRE II</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">AYANT le doz au feu et le ventre à la table,<BR>
+Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin délectable,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Ainsi comme ung poulet</SPAN><BR>
+Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie,<BR>
+Quant en debvroye avoir la face cramoisie<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Et le nez violet;</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">QUANT mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou
+perse,<BR>
+Porteray les couleurs que chérit ma maitresse.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Le vin rent le teint beau.</SPAN><BR>
+Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive,<BR>
+Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et chétive<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Ainsi qu&#39;ung beuveur d&#39;eau.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>VAUDEVIRE XI</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">CERTES <EM>hoc vinum est bonus</EM>:<BR>
+Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille,<BR>
+Se bien congru n&#39;estoit ce jus,<BR>
+Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille.<BR>
+Escolier j&#39;appris que bon vin<BR>
+Aide bien au maulvais latin.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">CESTE sentence praticquant,<BR>
+De latin je n&#39;en appris guère;<BR>
+Y pensant estre assez sçavant,<BR>
+Puisque bon vin aimoye à boire.<BR>
+Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu,<BR>
+Latin n&#39;est bon, fust-il congru.<BR>
+Fy du latin, parlons françois,<BR>
+Je m&#39;y recongnois davantaige.<BR>
+Je vueil boire une bonne fois,<BR>
+Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige;<BR>
+Certes se j&#39;en beuvoye soubvent,<BR>
+Je deviendroye fort éloquent.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>VAUDEVIRE XXII</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">HE! qu&#39;avons-nous
+affaire</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Du Turc ny du Sophy,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Don don.</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Pourveu que j&#39;aye à boire,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Des grandeurs je dis fy.</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Don don.</SPAN><BR>
+Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:<BR>
+<EM>Hoc acuit ingenium.</EM></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">QUI songe en vin ou
+vigne,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Est ung présaige heureux,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Don don.</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Le vin à qui réchigne</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Rent le coeur tout joyeux,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Don don.</SPAN><BR>
+Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:<BR>
+<EM>Hoc acuit ingenium</EM>.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">&amp;c.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P>The poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the
+celebration of the physical effects of wine upon the body and
+animal spirits; and the gentler emotions of the TENDER PASSION are
+rarely described in his numbers. In consequence, he has not invoked
+the Goddess of Beauty to associate with the God of Wine: to</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">&quot;Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his
+bowl;&quot;</P>
+
+<P>or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female,
+it is done after the following fashion--which discovers however an
+extreme facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems
+wonderfully accordant with a Bacchanalian note.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>VAUDEVIRE XIX</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">En ung jardin d&#39;ombraige tout couvert,<BR>
+Au chaud du jour, ay treuvé Madalaine,<BR>
+Qui près le pié d&#39;ung sicomorre vert<BR>
+Dormoit au bort d&#39;une claire fontaine;<BR>
+Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine.<BR>
+Son tetin frais n&#39;estoit pas bien caché:<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">D&#39;amour touché,</SPAN><BR>
+Pour contempler sa beauté souveraine<BR>
+Incontinent je m&#39;en suys approché.<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Sus, sus, qu&#39;on se resveille,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Voicy vin excellent</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Qui faict lever l&#39;oreille;</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Il faict mol qui n&#39;en prent.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Je n&#39;eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant,<BR>
+De m&#39;abstenir de baizotter sa bouche;<BR>
+Si bien qu&#39;enfin la belle s&#39;esveillant,<BR>
+Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche,<BR>
+Me dit ces mots: Biberon, ne me touche.<BR>
+Belle fillette à son aize ne couche<BR>
+Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu&#39;yvrongner,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">&amp;c. &amp;c.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P>The preceding extracts will suffice. This is a volume in every
+respect interesting--both to the literary antiquary and to the
+Book-Collector. A NEW EDITION of this work has appeared under the
+editorial care of M. Louis Dubois, published at Caen in 1821, 8vo.
+obtainable at a very moderate price.</P>
+
+<P class="ind2"><A name="fn_B"></A><A href="#fnref_B">B</A> The
+host, at these public and private festivals, usually called upon
+some one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or
+chivalrous character; and this custom prevailed more particularly
+in Normandy than in other parts of France:</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Usaige est en Normandie,<BR>
+Que qui hebergiez est qu&#39;il die<BR>
+Fable ou Chanson à son oste.</P>
+
+<P class="ind2">See the authorities cited at page XV, of this
+Discours préliminaire.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_163"></A><A href="#fnref_163">163</A> Some account
+of this printer, together with a fac-simile of his device, may be
+seen in the <EM>Bibliographical Decameron</EM>, vol. ii. p.
+33-6.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_164"></A><A href="#fnref_164">164</A> The first
+publication is entitled &quot;<EM>Essai sur l&#39;Histoire de
+l&#39;Industrie du Bocage en Général et de la Ville de Vire sa
+capitale en particulier, &amp;c.</EM>&quot; Par M. RICHARD SEGUIN.
+<EM>A Vire, chez Adam, Imprimeur, an</EM> 1810, 12mo. It is not
+improbable that I may have been the only importer of this useful
+and crowdedly-paged duodecimo volume; which presents us with so
+varied and animated a picture of the manners, customs, trades, and
+occupations of the Bocains and the Virois.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_165"></A><A href="#fnref_165">165</A> I subjoin an
+extract which relates to the</P>
+
+<P class="quote">DRESS AND CHARACTER OF THE WOMEN.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;Quant au COSTUME DES FEMMES
+d&#39;aujourd&#39;hui, comme il faudrait un volume entier pour le
+décrire, je n&#39;ai pas le courage de m&#39;engager dans ce
+labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolités. Ce que j&#39;en dirai
+seulement en général, c&#39;est qu&#39;autant les femmes du temps
+passé, etaient décentes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire
+d&#39;être graves et modestes, autant celles de notre siècle
+mettent tout en oeuvre pour paraître cyniques et voluptueuses. Nous
+ne sommes plus au temps où les plus grandes dames se faisaient
+honneur de porter la cordélière.<A name="fnref_C"></A><A href=
+"#fn_C">C</A> Leurs habillemens étaient aussi larges et fermés, que
+celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et légers, et d&#39;une
+finesse que les formes du corps, au moindre mouvement, se
+dessinent, de manière à ne laisser rien ignorer. A peine se
+couvrent-elles le sein d&#39;un voile transparent très-léger ou de
+je ne sais quelle palatine qu&#39;elles nomment point-à-jour, qui,
+en couvrant tout, ne cache rien; en sorte que si elles
+n&#39;étalent pas tous leurs charmes à découvert, c&#39;est que les
+hommes les moins scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en
+seraient révoltés tout-à-fait. D&#39;ailleurs, c&#39;est que ce
+n&#39;est pas encore la mode; plusieurs poussent même
+l&#39;impudence jusqu&#39;à venir dans nos temples sans coiffure,
+les cheveux hérissés comme des furies; d&#39;autres, par une
+bizarrerie qu&#39;on ne peut expliquer se dépouillent, autant
+qu&#39;il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur propre sexe,
+sembleut rougir d&#39;être femmes, et deviennent ridicules en
+voulant paraitre demi-hommes.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;Après avoir deshonoré l&#39;habit des
+femmes, elles ont encore voulu prostituer CELUI DES HOMMES. On les
+a vues adopter successivement les chapeaux, les redingotes, les
+vestes, les gilets, les bottes et jusqu&#39;aux boutons. Enfin si,
+au lieu de jupons, elles avaient pu s&#39;accommoder de l&#39;usage
+de la culotte, la métamorphose était complette; mais elles ont
+préféré les robes traînantes; c&#39;est dommage que la nature ne
+leur ait donné une troisième main, qui leur serait nécessaire pour
+tenir cette longue queue, qui souvent patrouille la boue ou balaye
+la poussière. Plût à Dieu que les anciennes lois fussent encore en
+vigueur, ou ceux et celles qui portaient des habits indécent
+étaient obligés d&#39;aller à Rome pour en obtenir
+l&#39;absolution, qui ne pouvait leur être accordée que par le
+souverain pontife, &amp;c.</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les
+Viroises, joignent à un esprit vif et enjoué les qualités du corps
+les plus estimables. Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre,
+elles sont de la moyenne taille, mais bien formées: elles ont le
+teint frais et fleuri, l&#39;oeil vif, le visage vermeil, la
+démarche leste, un air étoffé et très élégantes dans tout leur
+maintien. Si on dit avec raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les
+filles du Bocage, qui sont leurs voisines, ne leur cèdent en aucune
+manière, car en général le sang est très-beau en ce pays. Quant aux
+talens spirituels, elles les possèdent à un dégré éminent. Elles
+parlent avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins
+du ménage, ou elles excellent de telle sorte qu&#39;il n&#39;y a
+point de contrées ou il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent à
+merveille, et font avec succès tout le détail du commerce.&quot; p.
+238.</P>
+
+<P>These passages, notwithstanding the amende honorable of the
+concluding paragraph, raised a storm of indignation against the
+unsuspecting author! Nor can we be surprised at it.</P>
+
+<P>This publication is really filled with a great variety of
+curious historical detail--throughout which is interspersed much
+that relates to &quot;romaunt lore&quot; and romantic adventures.
+The civil wars between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON form alone a very
+important and interesting portion of the volume; and it is evident
+that the author has exerted himself with equal energy and anxiety
+to do justice to both parties--except that occasionally he betrays
+his antipathies against the Hugonots.<A name="fnref_D"></A><A href=
+"#fn_D">D</A> I will quote the concluding passage of this work.
+There may be at least half a score readers who may think it
+something more than merely historically curious:</P>
+
+<P class="quote">&quot;Je finirai donc ici mon Histoire. Je
+n&#39;ai point parlé d&#39;un grand nombre des faits d&#39;armes et
+d&#39;actions glorieuses, qui se sont passés dans la guerre de
+l&#39;indépendance des Etats-Unis d&#39;Amérique où beaucoup de
+Bocains ont eu part; mais mon principal dessein a été de traiter
+des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi je crois avoir
+atteint mon but, qui était d&#39;écrire l&#39;Histoire Militaire
+des Bocains par des faits et non par des phrases, je ne peux
+cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage;
+c&#39;est la visite que le bon et infortuné Louis XVI. fit aux
+Bocains en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues étaient aussi
+sages que profondes, avait résolu de faire construire le beau Port
+de Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles
+entreprises qui aient été faites depuis l&#39;origine de la
+Monarchie. Les Bocains sentirent l&#39;avantage d&#39;un si grand
+bienfait. Le Roi venant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un
+enthousiasme presqu&#39;impossible à décrire, ainsi que les Princes
+qui l&#39;accompagnaient. Sa marche rassemblait à un triomphe. Les
+peuples accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la
+route, faisant retentir les airs de chants d&#39;alégresse et des
+cris millions de fois répétés de Vive le Roi! Musique, Processions,
+Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonchés de fleurs; tout fut prodigué. Les
+villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de Valognes,
+se surpassérent dans cette occasion, pour prouver à S.M. leur amour
+et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant que
+l&#39;entrée de ce grand Roi à Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le
+clergé, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du
+canon, les acclamations universelles prouvérent au Monarque mieux
+encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fêtes magnifiques que la
+ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de tous
+les Bocains étaient à lui.&quot; p. 428.</P>
+
+<P class="ind2"><A name="fn_C"></A><A href="#fnref_C">C</A>
+&quot;Ceinture alors regardée comme le symbole de la continence. La
+reine de France en décorait les femmes titrées dont la conduite
+était irréprochable.&quot; <EM>Hist. de la réun. de Bretagne a la
+France par l&#39;abbé Irail</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="ind2"><A name="fn_D"></A><A href="#fnref_D">D</A>
+&quot;Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes
+sortes de cruautés, d&#39;infamies et de sacrilèges, jusqu&#39;à
+mêler les Saintes Hosties avec l&#39;avoine qu&#39;ils donnaient à
+leurs chevaux: mais Dieu permit qu&#39;ils n&#39;en voulurent pas
+manger.&quot; p. 369.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_166"></A><A href="#fnref_166">166</A> [Only ONE
+letter has passed between us since my departure; and that enables
+me to subjoin a fac-simile of its author&#39;s autograph.</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:80%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/359.png" alt="Autograph"></DIV>
+
+<P><A name="fn_167"></A><A href="#fnref_167">167</A> [It was in
+fact built by the famous Lord Talbot, about the year 1420. A
+similar castle, but less strong and lofty, may be seen at Castor,
+near Yarmouth in Norfolk--once the seat of the famous Sir JOHN
+FASTOLF, (a contemporary with Talbot) of whom Anstis treats so
+fully in his <EM>Order of the Garter</EM>, vol.i. p.142.]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_168"></A><A href="#fnref_168">168</A> See p. 205
+ante.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_169"></A><A href="#fnref_169">169</A> On the return
+of Louis the XVIII. the town of Falaise manifested its loyalty in
+the most unequivocal manner.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">COUPLETS</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><EM>Chantés par les Elèves du Collége de Falaise,
+en arborant le Drapeau Blanc</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry">Air: <EM>Un Soldat par un coup funeste</EM>.</P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Loin de nous la sombre
+tristesse,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Mars a déposé sa fureur;</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Enfin la foudre vengeresse</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Vient de terrasser
+<EM>l&#39;opresseur,</EM></SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">L&#39;aigle sanguinaire</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Succombe à l&#39;aspect de ces LYS.</SPAN><BR>
+Peuple français, tu vas revoir ton Père!<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Vive le Roi! Vive LOUIS!</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">Drapeau, que d&#39;horribles
+tempêtes</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Avoient éloigné de ces lieux,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Tu reviens embellir nos Fêtes,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Plus brillant et plus radieux!</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Ta douce présence</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Ramène les jeux et les ris;</SPAN><BR>
+Sois à jamais l&#39;Etendard de la France,<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Vive le Roi! vive LOUIS!</SPAN></P>
+
+<P class="poetry"><SPAN class="ind2">O Dieu! vengeur de
+l&#39;innocence,</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Protège ces LYS glorieux!</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Conserve long-temps à la France</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">LE ROI que tu rends à nos voeux!</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind4">Si la perfidie</SPAN><BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">De nouveau troubloit ton bonheur</SPAN><BR>
+Viens nous guider, ô Bannière chérie!<BR>
+ <SPAN class="ind2">Nous volerons au champ
+d&#39;honneur.</SPAN></P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_170"></A><A href="#fnref_170">170</A> The worthy
+historian of Falaise, quoted in a preceding page, is exceedingly
+anxious to make us believe that there are portions of this
+church--namely, four stones--in the eastern and western gable
+ends--which were used in the consecration of it, by MATHILDA, the
+wife of our first William. Also, that, at the gable end of the
+south transept, outside, an ancient grotto,--in which the Gallic
+priests of old purified themselves for the mysteries of their
+religion--is now converted into the sacristy, or vestry, or robing
+room. But these are surely mere antiquarian dreams. The same author
+more sagaciously informs us that the exact period of the
+commencement of the building of the nave, namely in 1438, is yet
+attested by an existing inscription, in gothic letters, towards the
+chief door of entrance. The inscription also testifies that in the
+same year, &quot;there reigned DEATH, WAR, and FAMINE.&quot; The
+<EM>chancel of the choir</EM>, with the principal doors of
+entrance, &amp;c. were constructed between the years 1520, and
+1540. It may be worth remarking that the stalls of the choir were
+brought from the Abbey of St. John--on the destruction of that
+monastic establishment in 1729; and that, according to the
+<EM>Gallia Christiana</EM>, vol. xi. p. 756, these stalls were
+carved at the desire of Thomas II. de Mallebiche, abbot of that
+establishment in 1506-1516. In a double niche of the south buttress
+are the statues of HERPIN and his WIFE; rich citizens of Falaise,
+who, by their wealth, greatly contributed to the building of the
+choir. (Their grandson, HERPIN LACHENAYE, together with his
+mistress were killed, side by side, in fighting at one of the gates
+of Falaise to repel the successful troops of Henry IV.) The
+<EM>Chapel of the Virgin</EM>, behind the choir, was completed
+about the year 1631. LANGEVIN, p. 81-128-131.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_171"></A><A href="#fnref_171">171</A> We have of
+course nothing to do with the first erection of a place of worship
+at Guibray in the VIIIth century. The story connected with the
+earliest erection is this. The faubourg of Guibray, distant about
+900 paces from Falaise, was formerly covered with chestnut and oak
+trees. A sheep, scratching the earth, as if by natural instinct (I
+quote the words of M. Langevin the historian of Falaise) indicated,
+by its bleatings, that something was beneath. The shepherd
+approached, and hollowing out the earth with his crook, discovered
+a statue of the Virgin, with a child in its arms. The first church,
+dedicated to the Virgin, under the reign of Charles Martel, called
+the Victorious, was in consequence erected--on this very spot--in
+the centre of this widely spreading wood of chestnut and oak. I
+hasten to the construction of a second church, on the same site,
+under the auspices of Mathilda, the wife of the Conqueror: with the
+statue of a woman with a diadem upon her head--near one of the
+pillars: upon which statue Langevin discourses learnedly in a note.
+But neither this church nor the statue in question are now in
+existence. On the contrary, the oldest portions of the church of
+Guibray, now existing--according to the authors of the <EM>Gallia
+Christiana</EM>, vol. xi. p. 878, and an ancient MS. consulted by
+M. Langevin--are of about the date of 1222; when the church was
+consecrated by the Bishop of Coutances. The open space towards the
+south, now called <EM>La Place aux Chevaux</EM>, was the old
+burying ground of the church. There was also a chapel, dedicated to
+St. Gervais, which was pillaged and destroyed by the Hugonots in
+1562. I should add, that the South-East exterior (behind the
+chancel) of this very curious old church at Guibray, resembles,
+upon a small scale, what M. Cotman has published of the same
+portion of St. Georges de Bocherville. <EM>Recherches sur
+Falaise</EM>, p. 49-53. Monsieur le Comte de la Fresnaye, in his
+<EM>Notice Historique sur Falaise</EM>, 1816, 8vo. will have it,
+that &quot;the porch of this church, the only unmutilated portion
+remaining of its ancient structure, demonstrates the epoch of the
+origin of Christianity among the Gauls.&quot; &quot;At least, such
+is the decision of M. Deveze, draftsman for Laborde; the latter of
+whom now Secretary to the Count d&#39;Artois, instituted a close
+examination of the whole fabric.&quot; p. 5-6. I hope there are not
+many such conclusions to be found in the magnificent and
+meritorious productions of LABORDE.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_172"></A><A href="#fnref_172">172</A> This fair
+lasts full fifteen days. The first eight days are devoted to
+business of a more important nature--which they call the GREAT
+WEEK: that is to say, the greatest number of merchants attend
+during the earlier part of it; and contracts of greater extent
+necessarily take place. The remaining seven days are called the
+LITTLE WEEK--in which they make arrangements to carry their
+previous bargains into effect, and to return home. Men and
+merchandise, from all quarters, and of all descriptions, are to be
+seen at this fair. Even Holland and Germany are not wanting in
+sending their commercial representatives. Jewellery and grocery
+seem to be the chief articles of commerce; but there is a
+prodigious display of silk, linen, and cotton, &amp;c.: as well as
+of hides, raw and tanned; porcelaine and earthen ware. The live
+cattle market must not be forgotten. Langevin says that, of horses
+alone, they sometimes sell full four thousand. Thus much for the
+buyer and seller. But this fair is regularly enlivened by an
+immense confluence of nobility and gentry from the adjacent
+country--to partake of the amusements, which, (as with the
+English,) form the invariable appendages of the scene. Langevin
+mentions the minor fairs of <EM>Ste. Croix, St. Michel</EM>, and
+<EM>St. Gervais</EM>, which help to bring wealth into the pockets
+of the inhabitants. <EM>Recherches Historiques sur Falaise</EM>; p.
+199, &amp;c.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_173"></A><A href="#fnref_173">173</A> [Since the
+publication of this Tour, the amiable Mons. Langevin has published
+&quot;additions&quot; to his historical account of Falaise; and in
+those additions, he has been pleased to notice the account which is
+HERE given of his labours and character. It would be bad--at least
+hardly justifiable--taste, to quote that notice: yet I cannot
+dissemble the satisfaction to find that there is <EM>more</EM> than
+ONE sympathising heart in Normandy, which appreciates this record
+of its excellence. I subjoin, therefore, with the greatest
+satisfaction, a fac-simile of the autograph of this amiable and
+learned man, as it appears written (at my request) in the
+title-page of a copy of his &quot;Researches.&quot;</P>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:50%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/391.png" alt="Autograph"></DIV>
+
+<P><A name="fn_174"></A><A href="#fnref_174">174</A> [The above was
+written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a foreigner, of his
+first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent Street to the
+stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland Place?]</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_175"></A><A href="#fnref_175">175</A> At this point,
+the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease; and I will
+let him take leave of his task of translation in his own words.
+&quot;Ici se termine la tache qui m&#39;a été confiée. Après avoir
+réfuté franchement tout ce qui m&#39;a semblé digne de lêtre, je
+crois devoir déclarer, en finissant, que mes observations n&#39;ont
+jamais eu <EM>la personne</EM> pour objet. Je reste persuadé,
+d&#39;ailleurs, que le coeur de M.D. est tout-à-fait innocent des
+écarts de son esprit. Si l&#39;on peut le condamner pour le fait,
+il faudra toujours l&#39;absoudre pour l&#39;intention....&quot;
+The <EM>concluding</EM>-sentence need not be copied: it is bad
+taste to re- echo the notices of one&#39;s own good qualities.</P>
+
+<P>My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace
+of a gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct
+and severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always
+had the button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how
+these thrusts have been parried; and if the &quot;hits&quot; on the
+part of my adversary, have been sometimes &quot;palpable,&quot;
+those of the original author will not (it is presumed) be deemed
+feeble or unimpressive. After all, the sum total of
+&quot;Errata&quot; scarcely includes THREE of <EM>substantial
+moment</EM>: and wishing Mons Licquet &quot;a very good day,&quot;
+I desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the
+floor of that Library of which he is the &quot;Bibliothècaire en
+Chef.&quot;</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_176"></A><A href="#fnref_176">176</A>
+&quot;<EM>Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Doré, trouvée
+a Lillebonne &amp;c. Suivie de l&#39;Analyse du Métal, avec le
+dessein de la Statue, et les Tracés de quelques particularités
+relatives à la Confection de cette Antique.&quot; Rouen,</EM> 1823.
+pp. 56.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_177"></A><A href="#fnref_177">177</A> Other details
+induce me to fix the period of its completion towards the end of
+the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties which the
+artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if one said
+that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection.&quot;
+p. 34.</P>
+
+<P><A name="fn_178"></A><A href="#fnref_178">178</A> In the page
+referred to, I have conjectured it to be printed by Ulric Han-or
+Reisinger. To these names I add the above.</P>
+</DIV>
+
+<DIV class="figcenter" style="width:30%;"><IMG width="100%" src=
+"images/472.png" alt="Logo"></DIV>
+
+<P class="letter">PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE<BR>
+<STRONG>Shakspeare Press</STRONG>.</P>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
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+</pre>
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+</BODY>
+</HTML>
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@@ -0,0 +1,12424 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One
+
+Author: Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16224]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net, from
+images generously made available by gallica (Bibliotheque
+nationale de France) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+
+Shakespeare Press.
+
+[Illustration: T. F. DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+Engraved by James Thomson from the
+Original Painting by T. Phillips Esq. R.A.
+
+London. Published June 1829 by R. Jennings, Poultry.]
+
+
+
+
+A
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+Antiquarian
+AND
+PICTURESQUE TOUR
+IN
+FRANCE AND GERMANY.
+
+
+BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D.
+
+MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT.
+
+
+SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LONDON:
+PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.
+1829.
+
+
+
+
+TO THE REVEREND JOHN LODGE, M.A.
+FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, AND
+LIBRARIAN TO THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND,
+
+
+Most grateful it is to me, at all times, to bear in remembrance those
+pleasant discussions in which we were wont so frequently to indulge,
+relating to the LIBRARIES upon the Continent:--but more than ordinarily
+gratifying to me was _that_ moment, when you told me, that, on crossing the
+Rhine, you took the third volume of my Tour under your arm, and on reaching
+the Monasteries of Moelk and Goettwic, gave an off-hand translation to the
+venerable Benedictine Inmates of what I had recorded concerning their MSS.
+and Printed Books, and their hospitable reception of the Author. I
+studiously concealed from You, at the time, the whole of the gratification
+which that intelligence imparted; resolving however that, should this work
+be deemed worthy of a second edition, to dedicate that republication to
+YOURSELF. Accordingly, it now comes forth in its present form, much
+enhanced, in the estimation of its Author, by the respectability of the
+name prefixed to this Dedication; and wishing you many years enjoyment of
+the honourable public situation with which you have been recently, and so
+deservedly, invested, allow me to subscribe myself,
+
+
+Your affectionate
+and obliged Friend,
+
+T.F. DIBDIN.
+
+Wyndham Place,
+June 30, 1829.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+_Passage to Dieppe_
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. _Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St. Remy. Divine
+Worship. Military Mass_
+
+LETTER III.
+
+_Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners and Customs.
+Boulevards_
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. _Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street-Scenery_
+
+LETTER V.
+
+_Ecclesiastical Architecture. Cathedral. Monuments. Religious Ceremonies.
+The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Vincent, St. Vivien,
+St. Gervais, and St. Paul_
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+_Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d'Orleans. (Jeanne d'Arc).
+Basso-Rilievo of the Champ de Drap d'Or. Palace and Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+ROUEN. _The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec. Eaux de Robec
+et d'Aubette. Mont Ste. Catherine. Hospices--Generale et d'Humanite_,
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Early Typography at Rouen. Modern Printers. Chap Books. Booksellers. Book
+Collectors_
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Departure from Rouen. St. George de Boscherville. Duclair. Marivaux. The
+Abbey of Jumieges. Arrival at Caudebec_,
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Montmorenci Castle. Havre de
+Grace_
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen_
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. _Soil. Society. Education. A Duel. Old houses. The Abbey of St.
+Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbe de la Sainte Trinite. Other
+Public Edifices_
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+CAEN. _Literary Society. Abbe de la Rue. Messrs. Pierre-Aime. Lair and
+Lamouroux. Medal of Malherbe. Booksellers. Memoir of the late M. Moysant,
+Public Librarian. Courts of Justice_
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Deacons. Crypt of the
+Cathedral_
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+BAYEUX. _Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apothecary and Book-Vendor. Visit
+to the Bishop. The Chapter Library. Description of the Bayeux Tapestry.
+Trade and Manufacture_
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. The Cathedral of Coutances. Environs.
+Aqueduct. Market-Day. Public Library. Establishment for the Clergy_
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town and Castle
+of_ VIRE
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+VIRE. _Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la Renaudiere. Olivier
+Basselin. M. Seguin. The Public Library_
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+_Departure from Vire. Conde. Pont Ouilly. Arrival at_ FALAISE. _Hotel of
+the Grand Turc. Castle of Falaise. Bibliomaniacal Interview_
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Mons. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinite, Comte de la Fresnaye. Guibray
+Church. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian of
+Falaise. Printing Offices_
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into Paris_
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+Portrait of the Author
+Fille de Chambre, Caen
+Portrait of the Abbe de la Rue
+
+VOL. II.
+
+Anne of Brittany
+Medal of Louis XII
+Pisani
+Denon
+Comte de Brienne
+Stone Pulpit, Strasbourg Cathedral
+
+VOL. III.
+
+Fille de Chambre, Manheim
+Monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra
+Prater, Vienna
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF AUTOGRAPHS.
+                                                       Vol.     Page.
+
+Artaria, Dom. Manheim                                  iii.      470
+Barbier, Antoine Alexandre; Paris                       ii.      204
+Bartsch, Adam de; Vienna                               iii.      394
+Beyschlag, Recteur; Augsbourg                          iii.      104
+Brial, Dom; Paris                                       ii.      254
+Brunet, Libraire; Paris                                 ii.      235
+Bure, De, Freres; Paris                                 ii.      220
+Chateaugiron, Marquis de; Paris                          i.  xxxviii
+Dannecker; Stuttgart                                   iii.       54
+Denon; Paris                                            ii.      293
+Gaertner, Corbinian; Salzburg                          iii.      201
+Gail; Paris                                             ii.      259
+Hartenschneider, Udalricus; Chremsminster
+  Monastery                                            iii.      229
+Henri II.                                               ii.      151
+Hess, C.E.; Munich                                     iii.      165
+Lamouroux; Caen                                          i.      137
+Lancon, Durand de; Paris                                 i.  xxxviii
+Langevin; Falaise                                        i.      341
+Langles, L.; Paris                                      ii.      268
+Larenaudiere, De; Vire                                   i.      309
+Lebret, F.C.; Stuttgart                                iii.       56
+May, Jean Gottlob; Augsbourg                           iii.      104
+Millin, A.L.; Paris                                     ii.      264
+Pallas, Joachim; Moelk Monastery                        iii.      254
+Peignot, Gabriel; Dijon                                  i.    xxvii
+Poitiers, Diane de                                      ii.      151
+Renouard, Ant. Aug.; Paris                              ii.      227
+Schlichtegroll, Frederic; Munich                       iii.      161
+Schweighaeuser, Fils; Strasbourg                         ii.      426
+Van Praet; Paris                                        ii.      278
+Veesenmeyer, G.; Ulm                                   iii.       71
+Willemin; Paris                                         ii.      320
+Young,.T.; Vienna                                      iii.      390
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+If I had chosen to introduce myself to the greatest possible advantage to
+the reader, in this Preface to a Second Edition of the "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian, and Picturesque Tour_," I could not have done better than have
+borrowed the language of those Foreigners, who, by a translation of the
+Work (however occasionally vituperative their criticisms) have, in fact,
+conferred an honour upon its Author. In the midst of censure, sometimes
+dictated by spite, and sometimes sharpened by acrimony of feeling, it were
+in my power to select passages of commendation, which would not less
+surprise the Reader than they have done myself: while the history of this
+performance may be said to exhibit the singular phenomenon, of a traveller,
+usually lauding the countries through which he passes, receiving in return
+the reluctant approbation of those whose institutions, manners, and
+customs, have been praised by him. It is admitted, by the most sedulous and
+systematic of my opponents--M. CRAPELET--that "considering the quantity and
+quality of the ornaments and engravings of this Tour, one is surprised that
+its cost is so moderate."[1]
+
+"Few books (says the Bibliographer of Dijon) have been executed with
+greater luxury. It is said that the expenses of printing and engraving
+amounted to 6000 l.--to nearly 140,000 franks of our money. It must be
+admitted that England is the only country in which such an undertaking
+could be carried into effect. Who in France would dare to risk such a
+sum--especially for three, volumes in octavo? He would be ruined, if he
+did."[2] I quote these passages simply to shew under what extraordinary
+obliquity of feeling those gentlemen must have set down to the task of
+translation and abuse--of THAT VERY WORK, which is here admitted to contain
+such splendid representations of the "bibliographical, antiquarian, and
+picturesque" beauties of their country.
+
+A brief account of this foreign _travail_ may be acceptable to the curious
+in literary history. MONS. LICQUET, the successor of M. Gourdin, as Chief
+Librarian to the Public Library at Rouen, led the way in the work of
+warfare. He translated the ninth Letter relating to that Public Library; of
+which translation especial mention is made at p. 99, post. This version was
+printed in 1821, for private, distribution; and only 100 copies were struck
+off. M. Crapelet, in whose office it was printed, felt the embers of
+discontent rekindled in his bosom as it passed through his press; and in
+the following year HE also stepped forward to discharge an arrow at the
+Traveller. Like his predecessor, he printed but a limited number; and as I
+have more particularly remarked upon the spirit of that version by way of
+"Introduction" to the original letter, in vol. ii. 209, &c. I shall not
+waste the time of the Reader by any notice of it in the present place.
+These two partial translators united their forces, about two years
+afterwards, and published the whole of the Tour, as it related to FRANCE,
+in four octavo volumes, in 1825. The ordinary copies were sold for 48
+francs, the large paper for 112 francs per copy. The wood-cuts only were
+republished by them. Of this conjoint, and more enlarged production,
+presently.
+
+Encouraged by the examples of Messrs. Licquet and Crapelet, a Bookbinder of
+the name of LESNE (whose poem upon his "Craft," published in 1820, had been
+copiously quoted and _commended_ by me in the previous edition) chose to
+plant his foot within this arena of controversy; and to address a letter to
+me; to which his model, M. Crapelet, was too happy to give circulation
+through the medium of his press.[3] To that letter the following metrical
+lines are prefixed; which the Reader would scarcely forgive me if I failed
+to amuse him by their introduction in this place. "_Lesne, Relieur
+Francais, a Mons. T.F. Dibdin, Ministre de la Religion, &c._"
+
+  Avec un ris moqueur, je crois vous voir d'ici,
+  Dedaigneusement dire: Eh, que veut celui-ci?
+  Qu'ai-je donc de commun avec un vil artiste?
+  Un ouvrier francais, un _Bibliopegiste_?
+  Ose-t-on ravaler un Ministre a ce point?
+  Que me veut ce _Lesne_? Je ne le connais point.
+    Je crois me souvenir qu'a mon voyage en France,
+  Avec ses pauvres vers je nouai connaissance.
+  Mais c'est si peu de chose un poete a Paris!
+    Savez-vous bien, Monsieur, pourquoi je vous ecris?
+  C'est que je crois avoir le droit de vous ecrire.
+  Fussiez-vous cent fois plus qu'on ne saurait le dire,
+  Je vois dans un Ministre un homme tel que moi;
+  Devant Dieu je crois meme etre l'egal d'un roi.
+
+The Letter however is in prose, with some very few exceptions; and it is
+just possible that the indulgent Reader may endure a specimen or two of the
+prose of M. Lesne, as readily as he has that of his poetry. These specimens
+are equally delectable, of their kind. Immediately after the preceding
+poetical burst, the French Bibliopegist continues thus:
+
+    D'apres cet exorde, vous pensez sans doute que, bien convaincu de ma
+    dignite d'homme, je me crois en droit de vous dire franchement ma
+    facon de penser; je vous la dirai, Monsieur. Si vous dirigiez un
+    journal bibliographique; que vous fissiez, en un mot, le metier de
+    journaliste, je serai peu surpris de voir dans votre Trentieme Lettre,
+    une foule de choses hasardees, de mauvais calembourgs, de
+    grossieretes, que nous ne rencontrons meme pas chez nos journalistes
+    du dernier ordre, en ce qu'ils savent mieux leur monde, et que s'ils
+    lancent une epigramme, fut-elle fausse, elle est au moins finement
+    tournee. Mais vous etes ANGLAIS, et par cela seul dispense sans doute
+    de cette politesse qui distingue si heureusement notre nation de la
+    votre, et que vos compatriotes n'acquierent pour la plupart qu'apres
+    un long sejour en France." p. 6.
+
+Towards the latter part of this most formidable "Tentamen Criticum," the
+irritable author breaks out thus--"C'est une maladie Francaise de vouloir
+toujours imiter les Anglais; ceux-ci, a leur tour, commencent a en etre
+atteints." p. 19. A little farther it is thus: "Enfin c'est _en imitant_
+qu'on reussit presque toujours mal; vous en etes encore, une preuve
+evidente. J'ai vu en beaucoup d'endroits de votre Lettre, que vous avez
+voulu imiter _Sterne_;[4] qu'est-il arrive? Vous etes reste au-dessous de
+lui, comme tous les Imitateurs de notre bon La Fontaine sont restes en deca
+de l'immortel Fabuliste." p. 20. But most especially does the sensitive M.
+Lesne betray his surprise and apprehension, on a gratuitous
+supposition--thrown out by me, by way of pleasantry--that "Mr. Charles
+Lewis was going over to Paris, to establish there a modern School of
+Bookbinding." M. Lesne thus wrathfully dilates upon this supposition:
+
+    "Je me garderai bien de passer sous silence la derniere partie de
+    votre Lettre; _un bruit assez etrange est venu jusqu'a vous_; et
+    Charles Lewis doit vous quitter pour quelque temps pour etablir en
+    France une ecole de reliure d'apres les principes du gout anglais;
+    mais vous croyez, dites-vous, que ce projet est surement chimerique,
+    ou que, si on le tentait, il serait de courte duree.
+
+    Pour cette fois, Monsieur, votre pronostic serait tres juste; cette
+    demarche serait une folie: il faudrait s'abuser sur l'engouement des
+    amateurs francais, et ceux qui sont atteints de cette maladie ne sont
+    pas en assez grand nombre pour soutenir un pareil etablissement. Oui,
+    l'on aime votre genre de reliure; mais on aime les reliures, facon
+    anglaise, faites par les Francais. Pensez-vous done, ou Charles Lewis
+    pense-t-il, qu'il n'y ait plus d'esprit national en France?
+
+      Allez, le sang Francaise coule encore dans nos veines;
+      Nous pourrons eprouver des malheurs et des peines,
+      Que nous devrons peut etre a vous autres Anglais;
+      Mais nous voulons rester, nous resterons, Francais!
+
+    Ainsi, que Charles Lewis ne se derange pas; qu'il cesse, s'il les a
+    commences, les preparatifs de sa descente; qu'il ne prive pas ses
+    compatriotes d'un artiste soi-disant inimitable. Nous en avons ici qui
+    le valent, et qui se feront un plaisir de perpeteur parmi nous le bon
+    gout, l'elegance, et la noble simplicite. p. 25.[5]
+
+So much for M. Lesne. I have briefly noticed M. Peignot, the Bibliographer
+of Dijon. That worthy wight has made the versions of my Ninth and Thirtieth
+Letters (First Edition) by M.M. Licquet and Crapelet, the substratum of his
+first brochure entitled _Varietes, Notices et Raretes Bibliographiques_,
+_Paris_, 1822: it being a supplement to his previous Work of _Curiosites
+Bibliographiques_."[6] It is not always agreeable for an Author to have his
+Works reflected through the medium of a translation; especially where the
+Translator suffers a portion, however small, of his _own_ atrabiliousness,
+to be mixed up with the work translated: nor is it always safe for a third
+person to judge of the merits of the original through such a medium. Much
+allowance must therefore be made for M. Peignot; who, to say the truth, at
+the conclusion of his labours, seems to think that he has waded through a
+great deal of _dirt_ of some kind or other, which might have been better
+avoided; and that, in consequence, some general declaration, by way of
+_wiping, off_ a portion of the adhering mud, is due to the original Author.
+Accordingly, at the end of his analysis of M. Licquet's version, (which
+forms the second Letter in the brochure) he does me the honour to devote
+seven pages to the notice of my humble lucubrations:--and he prefaces this
+"_Notice des Ouvrages de M. Dibdin"_, by the following very handsome
+tribute to their worth:
+
+    Si, dans les deux Lettres ou nous avons rendu compte des traductions
+    partielles du voyage de M.D., nous avons partage l'opinion des deux
+    estimable traducteurs, sur quelques erreurs et quelques inconvenances
+    echappees a l'auteur anglais, nous sommes bien eloigne d'envelopper
+    dans le meme blame, tout ce qui est sorte de sa plume; car il y auroit
+    injustice a lui refuser des connaissances tres etendues en histoire
+    litteraire, et en bibliographie: nous le disons franchement, il
+    faudroit fermer les yeux a la lumiere, ou etre d'une partialite
+    revoltante, pour ne pas convenir que, juste appreciateur de tous les
+    tresors bibliographiques qu'il a le bonheur d'avoir sous la main, M.
+    Dibdin en a fait connoitre en detail toute la richesse dans de
+    nombreux d'ouvrages, ou tres souvent le luxe d'erudition se trouve en
+    harmonie avec le luxe typographique qu'il y a etale.
+
+At the risk of incurring the imputation of vanity, I annex the preceding
+extract; because I am persuaded that the candid Reader will appreciate it
+in its proper light. I might, had I chosen to do so, have lengthened the
+extract by a yet more complimentary passage: but enough of M. Peignot--who,
+so far from suffering ill will or acerbity to predominate over a kind
+disposition, hath been pleased, since his publication, to write to me a
+very courteous Letter,[7] and to solicit a "continuance of my favours."
+
+Agreeably to the intimation expressed in a preceding page, I am now, in due
+order, to notice the labours of my translators M.M. LICQUET and CRAPELET.
+Their united version appeared in 1825, in four octavo volumes, of which the
+small paper was but indifferently well printed.[8] The preface to the first
+two volumes is by M. Licquet: and it is not divested of point and merit. It
+begins by attacking the _Quarterly Review_, (June 1821, p. 147.) for its
+severity of animadversion on the supposed listlessness and want of
+curiosity of the French in exploring the architectural antiquities of their
+country; and that, in consequence of such supineness, the English,
+considering them as their own property, have described them accordingly.
+"The decision (says the French translator) is severe; happily it is without
+foundation." After having devoted several pages to observations by way of
+reply to that critical Journal, M. Licquet continues thus:--unless I have
+unintentionally misrepresented him.
+
+    The Englishman who travels in Normandy, meets, at every step, with
+    reminiscences of his kings, his ancestors, his institutions, and his
+    customs. Churches yet standing, after the lapse of seven centuries;
+    majestic ruins; tombs--even to the very sound of the clock--all unite
+    in affecting, here, the heart of a British subject: every thing seems
+    to tell him that, in former times, HERE was his country; here the
+    residence of his sovereigns; and here the cradle of his manners. This
+    was more than sufficient to enflame the lively imagination of Mr. D.
+    and to decide him to visit, in person, a country already explored by a
+    great number of his countrymen; but he conceived that his narrative
+    should embody other topics than those which ordinarily appeared in the
+    text of his predecessors.
+
+    "His work then is not only a description of castles, towns, churches,
+    public monuments of every kind:--it is not only a representation of
+    the general aspect of the country, as to its picturesque
+    appearances--but it is an extended, minute, though occasionally
+    inexact, account of public and private libraries; with reflections
+    upon certain customs of the country, and upon the character of those
+    who inhabit it. It is in short the personal history of the author,
+    throughout the whole length of his journey. Not the smallest incident,
+    however indifferent, but what has a place in the letters of the
+    Bibliographer. Thus, he mentions every Inn where he stops: recommends
+    or scolds the landlord--according to his civility or exaction. Has the
+    author passed a bad night? the reader is sure to know it on the
+    following morning. On the other hand, has he had a good night's rest
+    in a comfortable bed? [dans un lit _comfortable_?] We are as sure to
+    know this also, as soon as he awakes:--and thus far we are relieved
+    from anxiety about the health of the traveller. Cold and heat--fine
+    weather and bad weather--every variation of atmosphere is scrupulously
+    recorded.
+
+What immediately follows, is unworthy of M. Licquet; because it not only
+implies a charge of a heinous description--accusing me of an insidious
+intrusion into domestic circles, a violation of confidence, and a
+systematic derision of persons and things--but because the French
+translator, exercising that sense and shrewdness which usually distinguish
+him, MUST have known that such a charge _could_ not have been founded in
+FACT. He must have known that any gentleman, leaving England with those
+letters which brought me in contact with some of the first circles on the
+Continent, MUST have left it without leaving his character _behind_ him;
+and that such a character could not, in the natural order of things--seen
+even through the sensitive medium of a French critic--have been guilty of
+the grossness and improprieties imputed to me by M. Licquet. I treat
+therefore this "damnation in wholesale" with scorn and contempt: and hasten
+to impress the reader with a more favourable opinion of my Norman
+translator. He _will_ have it that
+
+    "the English Traveller's imagination is lively and ardent--and his
+    spirit, that of raillery and lightness. He examines as he runs along;
+    that is to say, he does not give himself time to examine; he examines
+    ill; he deceives himself; and he subjects his readers to be deceived
+    with him. He traverses, at a hard trot, one of the most ancient towns
+    in France; puts his head out of his carriage window--and boldly
+    decides that the town is of the time of Francis I."![9] p. xviij.
+
+There is pleasantry, and perhaps some little truth, in this vein of
+observation; and it had been better, perhaps, for the credit of the good
+taste and gentleman-like feeling of Mons. Licquet, if he had uniformly
+maintained his character in these respects. I have however, in the
+subsequent pages,[10] occasionally grappled with my annotator in proving
+the fallacy, or the want of charity, of many of his animadversions: and the
+reader probably may not be displeased, if, by way of "avant propos," I
+indulge him here with a specimen of them--taken from his preface. M.
+Licquet says, that I "create scenes; arrange a drama; trace characters;
+imagine a dialogue, frequently in French--and in what French--gracious
+God!--in assigning to postilions a ridiculous language, and to men of the
+world the language of postilions." These be sharp words:[11] but what does
+the Reader imagine may be the probable "result" of the English Traveller's
+inadvertencies?... A result, ("gracious Heaven!") very little anticipated
+by the author. Let him ponder well upon the awful language which ensues.
+"What (says M. Licquet) will quickly be the result, with us, of such
+indiscretions as those of which M. Dibdin is guilty? The necessity of
+SHUTTING OUR PORTS, or at least of placing a GUARD UPON OUR LIPS!" There is
+some consolation however left for me, in balancing this tremendous
+denunciation by M. Licquet's eulogy of my good qualities--which a natural
+diffidence impels me to quote in the original words of their author.
+
+    "A Dieu ne plaise, toutefois, que j'accuse ici LE COEUR de M. Dibdin.
+    Je n'ai jamais eu l'honneur de le voir: je ne le connais que par ses
+    ecrits; principalement par son _Splendid Tour_, et je ne balance pas a
+    declarer que l'auteur doit etre doue d'une ame honnete, et de ces
+    qualites fondamentales qui constituent l'homme de bien. Il prefere sa
+    croyance; mais il respecte la croyance des autres; son erudition
+    parait....[12] variee. Son amour pour les antiquites est immense; et
+    par antiquites j'entends ici tout ce qui est _antique_ ou seulement
+    _ancien_, quellesque soient d'ailleurs la nature et la forme des
+    objets." Pref. p. xv. xvij.
+
+Once more; and to conclude with M. Licquet. After these general
+observations upon the _Text_ of the Tour, M. Licquet favours us with the
+following--upon the _Plates_. "These plates (says he) are intended to
+represent some of the principal monuments; the most beautiful landscapes,
+and the most remarkable persons, comprehending even the servants of an inn.
+If _talent_ be sought in these Engravings, it will doubtless be found in
+them; but strangers must not seek for _fidelity_ of representation from
+what is before their eyes. The greater number of the Designs are, in some
+sort, ideal compositions, which, by resembling every thing, resemble
+nothing in particular: and it is worthy of remark that the Artist, in
+imitation of the Author, seems to have thought that he had only to shew
+himself _clever_, without troubling himself to be _faithful_." To this, I
+reply in the very words of M. Licquet himself: "the decision is severe;
+luckily it is unjust." The only portions of the designs of their skilful
+author, which may be taxed with a tendency to extravagance, are the
+_groups_: which, when accompanied by views of landscapes, or of monuments,
+are probably too profusely indulged in; but the _individuals_, constituting
+those groups, belong precisely to the _country_ in which they are
+represented. In the first and second volumes they are _French_; in the
+third they are _Germans_--all over. Will M. Licquet pretend to say that the
+churches, monasteries, streets, and buildings, with which the previous
+Edition of this Tour is so elaborately embellished, have the slightest
+tendency to IMAGINED SCENERY? If he do, his optics must be peculiarly his
+own. I have, in a subsequent page, (p. 34, note) slightly alluded to the
+cost and risk attendant on the Plates; but I may confidently affirm, from
+experience, that two thirds of the expense incurred would have secured the
+same sale at the same price. However, the die is cast; and the voice of
+lamentation is fruitless.
+
+I now come to the consideration of M. Licquet's coadjutor, M. CRAPELET.
+Although the line of conduct pursued by that very singular gentleman be of
+an infinitely more crooked description than that of his Predecessor, yet,
+in this place, I shall observe less respecting it; inasmuch as, in the
+subsequent pages, (pp. 209, 245, 253, 400, &c.) the version and annotations
+of M. Crapelet have been somewhat minutely discussed. Upon the SPIRIT which
+could give rise to such a version, and such annotations, I will here only
+observe, that it very much resembles that of searchers of our
+street-pavements; who, with long nails, scrape out the dirt from the
+interstices of the stones, with the hope of making a discovery of some lost
+treasure which may compensate the toil of perseverance. The love of lucre
+may, or may not, have influenced my Parisian translator; but the love of
+discovery of latent error, and of exposure of venial transgression, has
+undoubtedly, from beginning to end, excited his zeal and perseverance. That
+carping spirit, which shuts its eyes upon what is liberal and kind, and
+withholds its assent to what is honourable and just, it is the
+distinguished lot--and, perhaps, as the translator may imagine, the
+distinguished felicity--of M. Crapelet to possess. Never was greater
+reluctance displayed in admitting even the palpable truths of a text, than
+what is displayed in the notes of M. Crapelet: and whenever a concurring
+sentiment comes from him, it seems to exude like his heart's life-blood.
+Having already answered, in detail, his separate publication confined to my
+30th Letter[13]--(the 8th of the second volume, in _this_ edition) and
+having replied to those animadversions which appear in his translation of
+the whole of the second volume, in this edition--it remains here only to
+consign the Translator to the careful and impartial consideration of the
+Reader, who, it is requested, may be umpire between both parties. Not to
+admit that the text of this Edition is in many places improved, from the
+suggestions of my Translators, by corrections of "Names of Persons, Places,
+and Things," would be to betray a stubbornness or obtuseness of feeling
+which certainly does not enter into the composition of its author.
+
+I now turn, not without some little anxiety, yet not wholly divested of the
+hope of a favourable issue, to the character and object of the Edition HERE
+presented to the Public. It will be evident, at first glance, that it is
+greatly "shorn of its beams" in regard to graphic decorations and
+typographical splendour. Yet its garb, if less costly, is not made of
+coarse materials: for it has been the wish and aim of the Publishers, that
+this impression should rank among books worthy of the DISTINGUISHED PRESS
+from which it issues. Nor is it unadorned by the sister art of _Engraving_;
+for, although on a reduced scale, some of the repeated plates may even
+dispute the palm of superiority with their predecessors. Several of the
+GROUPS, executed on _copper_ in the preceding edition, have been executed
+on _wood_ in the present; and it is for the learned in these matters to
+decide upon their relative merits. To have attempted portraits upon wood,
+would have inevitably led to failure. There are however, a few NEW PLATES,
+which cannot fail to elicit the Purchaser's particular attention. Of these,
+the portraits of the _Abbe de la Rue_ (procured through the kind offices of
+my excellent friend Mr. Douce), and the _Comte de Brienne_, the _Gold Medal
+of Louis XII_. the _Stone Pulpit of Strasbourg Cathedral,_ and the _Prater
+near Vienna_--are particularly to be noticed.[14] This Edition has also
+another attraction, rather popular in the present day, which may add to its
+recommendation even with those possessed of its precursor. It contains
+fac-similes of the AUTOGRAPHS of several distinguished Literati and Artists
+upon the Continent;[15] who, looking at the text of the work through a less
+jaundiced medium than the Parisian translator, have continued a
+correspondence with the Author, upon the most friendly terms, since its
+publication. The accuracy of these fac-similes must be admitted, even by
+the parties themselves, to be indisputable. Among them, are several,
+executed by hands.. which now CEASE to guide the pen! I had long and fondly
+hoped to have been gratified by increasing testimonies of the warmth of
+heart which had directed several of the pens in question--hoped ... even
+against the admonition of a pagan poet ...
+
+  "Vitae summa brevis SPEM nos vetat inchoare LONGAM."
+
+But such hopes are now irretrievably cut off; and the remembrance of the
+past must solace the anticipations of the future.
+
+So much respecting the _decorative_ department of this new edition of the
+Tour. I have now to request the Reader's attention to a few points more
+immediately connected with what may be considered its _intrinsic_ worth. In
+the first place, it may be pronounced to be an Edition both _abridged_ and
+_enlarged_: abridged, as regards the lengthiness of description of many of
+the MSS. and Printed Books--and enlarged, as respects the addition, of many
+notes; partly of a controversial, and partly of an obituary, description.
+The "Antiquarian and Picturesque" portions remain nearly as heretofore; and
+upon the whole I doubt whether the amputation of matter has extended beyond
+_an eighth_ of what appeared in the previous edition. It had long ago been
+suggested to me--from a quarter too high and respectable to doubt the
+wisdom of its decision--that the Contents of this Tour should be made known
+to the Public through a less costly medium:--that the objects described in
+it were, in a measure, new and interesting--but that the high price of the
+purchase rendered it, to the majority of Readers, an inaccessible
+publication. I hope that these objections are fully met, and successfully
+set aside, by the Work in its PRESENT FORM. To have produced it, _wholly
+divested_ of ornament, would have been as foreign to my habits as repugnant
+to my feelings. I have therefore, as I would willingly conclude, hit upon
+the happy medium--between sterility and excess of decoration.
+
+After all, the greater part of the ground here trodden, yet continues to be
+untrodden ground to the public. I am not acquainted with any publication
+which embraces all the objects here described; nor can I bring myself to
+think that a perusal of the first and third volumes may not be unattended
+with gratification of a peculiar description, to the lovers of antiquities
+and picturesque beauties. The second volume is rather the exclusive
+province of the Bibliographer. In retracing the steps here marked out, I
+will not be hypocrite enough to dissemble a sort of triumphant feeling
+which accompanies a retrospection of the time, labour, and money devoted..
+in doing justice, according to my means, to the attractions and worth of
+the Countries which these pages describe. Every such effort is, in its way,
+a NATIONAL effort. Every such attempt unites, in stronger bonds, the
+reciprocities of a generous feeling between rival Nations; and if my reward
+has not been in _wealth_, it has been in the hearty commendation of the
+enlightened and the good: "Mea me virtute involvo."[16]
+
+I cannot boast of the commendatory strains of public Journals in my own
+country. No intellectual steam-engine has been put in motion to manufacture
+a review of unqualified approbation of the Work now submitted to the public
+eye--at an expense, commensurate with the ordinary means of purchase. With
+the exception of an indirect and laudatory notice of it, in the immortal
+pages of the Author of Waverley, of the Sketch book, and of Reginald
+Dalton, this Tour has had to fight its way under the splendour of its own
+banners, and in the strength of its own cause. The previous Edition is now
+a scarce and a costly book. Its Successor has enough to recommend it, even
+to the most fastidious collector, from the elegance of its type and
+decorations, and from the reasonableness of its price; but the highest
+ambition of its author is, that it may be a part of the furniture of every
+Circulating Library in the Kingdom. If he were not conscious that GOOD
+would result from its perusal, he would not venture upon such an avowal.
+"FELIX FAUSTUMQUE SIT!"
+
+
+[1] M. Crapelet is of course speaking of the PREVIOUS edition of the Tour.
+    He continues thus: "M. Dibdin, dans son voyage en France, a visite nos
+    departemens de l'ouest et de l'est, toutes leurs principales villes,
+    presque tous les lieux remarquables par les antiquites, par les
+    monumens, par les beautes du site, ou par les souvenirs historiques.
+    Il a visite les chateaux, les eglises, les chapelles; il a observe nos
+    moeurs, nos coutumes; nos habitudes; il a examine nos Musees et nos
+    premiers Cabinets de curiosite; il s'est concentre dans nos
+    Bibliotheques. Il parle de notre litterature et des hommes de lettres,
+    des arts et de nos artistes; il critique les personnes comme les
+    choses; il loue quelquefois, il plaisante souvent; la vivacite de son
+    esprit l'egare presque toujours." A careful perusal of the notes in
+    THIS edition will shew that my veracity has not "almost always led me
+    astray."
+
+[2] GABRIEL PEIGNOT; _Varietes, Notices et Raretes Bibliographiques, 1822,
+    8vo. p. 4_.
+
+[3] _Lettre d'un Relieur Francais a un Bibliographe Anglais; a Paris, de
+    l'Imprimerie de Crapelet_, 1822, 8vo. p.p. 28.
+
+[4] It is a little curious that M. Lesne has not been singular in this
+    supposition. My amiable and excellent friend M. Schweighaeuser of
+    Strasbourg had the same notion: at least, he told me that the style of
+    the Tour very frequently reminded him of that of Sterne. I can only
+    say--and say very honestly--that I as much thought of Sterne as I did
+    of ... William Caxton!
+
+[5] Copious as are the above quotations, from the thoroughly original M.
+    Lesne, I cannot resist the risking of the readers patience and good
+    opinion, by the subjoining of the following passage--with which the
+    brochure concludes. "D'apres la multitude de choses hasardees que
+    contient votre Lettre, vous en aurez probablement recu quelques unes
+    de personnes que vous aurez choquees plus que moi, qui vous devrais
+    plutot des remercimens pour avoir pris la peine de traduire quelques
+    pages de mon ouvrage; mais il n'en est pas de meme de bien des gens,
+    et cela ne doit pas les engager a etre autant communicatif avec vous,
+    si vous reveniez en France. Je souhaite, dans ce dernier cas, que tous
+    les typographes, les bibliothecaires, les bibliognostes, les
+    bibliographes, les bibliolathes, les bibliomanes, les biblophiles, les
+    bibliopoles, ceux qui exercent la bibliuguiancie et les bibliopegistes
+    meme, soient pour vous autant de bibliotaphes; vous ne seriez plus a
+    meme de critiquer ce que vous sauriez et ce que vous ne sauriez pas,
+    comme vous l'aviez si souvent fait inconsiderement:
+
+      Mais tous vos procedes ne nous etonnent pas,
+      C'est le sort des Francais de faire DES INGRATS;
+      On les voit servir ceux qui leur furent nuisibles;
+      Je crois que sur ce point ils sont incorrigibles.
+
+    Je vous avouerai cependant que je suis loin d'etre fache de vous voir
+    en agir ainsi envers mes compatriotes: je desirerais que beaucoup
+    d'Anglais fissent de meme; cela pourrait desangliciser ou
+    desanglomaniser les Francais. Vous, Monsieur, qui aimez les mots
+    nouveaux, aidez-moi, je vous prie, a franciser, a purifier celui-ci.
+    Quant a moi
+
+      Je ne fus pas nourri de Grec et de Latin,
+      J'appris a veiller tard, a me lever matin,
+      La nature est le livre ou je fis mes etudes,
+      Et tous ces mots nouveaux me semblent long-temps rudes;
+      Je trouve qu'on ne peut tres bien les prononcer
+      Sans affectation, au moins sans grimacer;
+      Que tous ces mots tires des langues etrangeres,
+      Devraient etre l'objet de critiques severes.
+      Faites donc de l'esprit en depit du bon sens,
+      On vous critiquera; quant a moi j'y consens.
+
+    Je terminerai cette longue Lettre de deux manieres: a l'anglaise, en
+    vous souhaitant le bon jour ou le bon soir, suivant l'heure a laquelle
+    vous la recevrez; a la francaise, en vous priant de me croire,
+
+    Monsieur,
+
+    Votre tres humble serviteur,
+
+    LESNE.
+
+[6] The above brochure consists of two Letters; each to an anonymous
+    bibliographical "Confrere:" one is upon the subject of M. Crapelet's
+    version--the other, upon that of M. Licquet's version--of a portion of
+    the Tour. The notice of the Works of the Author of the Tour; a list of
+    the prices for which the Books mentioned in it have been sold; a
+    Notice of the "Hours of Charlemagne" (see vol. ii. 199) and some
+    account of the late Mr. Porson "Librarian of the London
+    Institution"--form the remaining portion of this little volume of
+    about 160 pages. For the "Curiosites Bibliographiques," consult the
+    _Bibliomania_, pp. 90, 91, &c. &c.
+
+[7] This letter accompanied another Work of M. Peignot, relating to
+    editions and translations of the Roman Classics:--and as the reader
+    will find, in the ensuing pages, that I have been sometime past
+    labouring under the frightful, but popular, mania of AUTOGRAPHS, I
+    subjoin with no small satisfaction a fac-simile of the Autograph of
+    this enthusiastic and most diligent Bibliographer.
+
+    [Autograph: Votre tres humble et obeissant serviteur, G. Peignot]
+
+[8] See page xviii.--ante.
+
+[9] M. Licquet goes on to afford an exemplification of this precipitancy of
+    conjecture, in my having construed the word _Allemagne_--a village
+    near to Caen--by that of _Germany_. I refer the reader to p. 168 post,
+    to shew with what perfect frankness I have admitted and corrected this
+    "_hippopotamos_" error.
+
+[10] More especially at pages 82, 100, 367.
+
+[11] "Sharp" as they may be, they are softened, in some measure, by the
+    admission of my bitterest annotator, M. Crapelet, that "I speak and
+    understand the French language well." vol. ii. p. 253. It is painful
+    and unusual with me to have recourse to such apparently
+    self-complimentary language; but when an adversary drives one into a
+    corner, and will not allow of fair space and fair play, one must fight
+    with feet as well as with hands ... "manibus pedibusque" ...
+
+[12] This _hiatus_ must not be filled by the Author: ... "haud equidem
+    tali me dignor honore."
+
+[13] See vol. ii. p. 210-11.
+
+[14] See vol. i. p. 186, vol. ii. pp. 49, 296, 392. The other fresh plates
+    are, _Portrait of the Author_, frontispiece; Bird's-eye views of the
+    _Monasteries of St. Peter's, Salzburg, and of Molk:_ vol. iii. pp.
+    195, 248, 381, _Black Eagle Inn_, Munich, p. 156. But the Reader will
+    be pleased to examine the _List of Plates prefixed_--in a preceding
+    page.
+
+[15] Among these distinguished Literati, I here enrol with peculiar
+    satisfaction the names of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUGIRON and Mons. DURAND
+    DE LANCON. No opportunity having occurred in the subsequent pages to
+    incorporate fac-similes of the Autographs of these distinguished
+    _Bibliophiles_, they are annexed in the present place.
+
+    [Autographs: M. de Chateaugiron, D. de Lancon]
+
+[16] It is more than a negative consolation to me, to have lived to see the
+    day, that, although comparatively impoverished, _others_ have
+    been enriched by my labours. When I noticed a complete set of my
+    lucubrations on LARGE PAPER, valued at 250_l_. in a bookseller's
+    catalogue, (Mr. Pickering's) and afterwards learnt that this set had
+    found a PURCHASER, I had reason to think that I had "deserved well" of
+    the Literature of my country: and I resolved to live "mihi carior" in
+    consequence.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL
+
+Antiquarian
+
+AND
+
+PICTURESQUE TOUR.
+
+
+
+
+The Notes peculiar to THIS EDITION are distinguished by being inserted
+between brackets: as thus:--[]
+
+*** The Index is placed at the end of the First Volume, for the purpose of
+equalising the size of the Volumes.
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+
+PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.
+
+_Dieppe, April 20, 1818_.
+
+
+At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected "_Bibliographical,
+Antiquarian_,[17] and _Picturesque Tour"_ is carried into execution; and
+the Tourist is safely landed on the shores of Normandy. "Vous voila donc,
+Monsieur a Dieppe!"--exclaimed the landlord of the Grand Hotel
+d'Angleterre--as I made my way through a vociferating crowd of old and
+young, of both sexes, with cards of addresses in their hands; entreating me
+to take up my abode at their respective hotels.... But I know your love of
+method, and that you will be angry with me if I do not "begin at the
+beginning."
+
+It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left my home, on
+the 14th of this present month, for the land of castles, churches, and
+ancient chivalry. The wind from the south-east was blowing pretty smartly
+at the time; but the sky was without a cloud, and I could not but look upon
+the brilliancy of every external object as a favourable omen of the
+progress and termination of my tour. Adverse winds, or the indolence or
+unwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole
+days--instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day following
+our arrival. We were to form the first ship's company which had visited
+France this season. On approaching our gallant little bark, the
+_Nancy_,[18] commanded by Captain BLABER, the anchor was weighed, and
+hoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day began to improve upon us. The
+gloomy appearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A host of black
+clouds rolled heavily away. The sun at length shone in his full meridian
+splendour, and the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves. As I
+supposed us to near the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain an early
+glimpse of something in the shape of cliff or jettie. But the wind
+continued determinedly in the south east: the waves rose in larger masses;
+and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of foam as we entered on the
+various tacks.
+
+It is a grand sight--that vast, and apparently interminable ocean--
+
+  .... maria undique et undique coelum!
+
+We darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French coast: and as
+the sun declined, we found it most prudent to put the Captain's advice, of
+going below, into execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the voyage.
+The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture and
+pain in our respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over
+the deck, sky-light, and binnacle: and down came, in consequence, drenched
+with the briny wave, the hardiest of our crew, who, till then, had ventured
+to linger upon deck. That crew was various; and not without a few of the
+natives of those shores which we were about to visit.
+
+To cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only farther to say, that,
+towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw "the lights of
+Dieppe"--a joyful sound to us miserable wretches below. I well remember, at
+this moment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless eye, and
+perceiving the light of the moon still lingering upon the main-sail,--but I
+shall never forget how much more powerfully my sensations were excited,
+when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, I looked up, and saw an old
+wrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on begirt with large blue,
+puckered, short petticoats--in possession of the helm--about to steer the
+vessel into harbour![19]
+
+About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and agitated, and
+of a dingy colour: while
+
+    .... heavily with clouds came on the day,
+
+as we slowly approached the outward harbour of DIEPPE. A grey morning with
+drizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a first visit to a foreign
+shore. Nevertheless every thing was new, and strange, and striking; and the
+huge crucifix, to the right, did not fail to make a very forcible
+impression. As we approached the, inner harbour, the shipping and the
+buildings more distinctly presented themselves. The harbour is large, and
+the vessels are entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishing
+smacks: but the manner in which the latter harmonized with the tint and
+structure of the houses--the bustle upon shore--the casks, deal planks,
+ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays,--all formed a most
+animated and interesting scene. The population seemed countless, and
+chiefly females; whose high caps and enormous ear-rings, with the rest of
+their paraphernalia, half persuaded me that instead of being some few
+twenty-five leagues only from our own white cliffs, I had in fact dropt
+upon the Antipodes! What a scene (said I to my companion) for our CALCOTT
+to depict![20] It was a full hour before we landed--saluted, and even
+assailed on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hotels. We were
+not long however in fixing our residence at the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, of
+which the worthy Mons. De La Rue[21] is the landlord.
+
+
+[17] [Mons. Licquet, my translator, thinks, that in using the word
+    "_Antiquaire_"--as appears in the previous edition of this work,
+    incorporated in the gallicised sentence of "_Voyage Bibliographique
+    Antiquaire_, &c."--I have committed an error; as the word
+    "_Archeologique_" ought, in his opinion, to have been adopted--and he
+    supposes that he best expresses my meaning by its adoption. Such a
+    correction may be better French; but "Archaeological" is not exactly
+    what is usually meant--in our language--by "Antiquarian."]
+
+[18] This smart little vessel, of about 70 tons burden, considered to be
+    the fastest sailing packet from Dieppe, survived our voyage only about
+    eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on
+    board of her. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound
+    for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew was with
+    difficulty saved--and the vessel went down within about twenty-five
+    minutes after the shock.
+
+[19] The English are not permitted to bring their own vessels into
+    harbour--for obvious reasons.
+
+[20] [This "scene" has been, in fact, subsequently depicted by. the
+    masterly pencil of J.M.W.TURNER, Esq. R. A: and the picture, in which
+    almost all the powers of that surprising Artist are concentrated, was
+    lately offered for sale by public auction. How it was suffered to be
+    _bought in_ for three hundred and eighty guineas, is at once a riddle
+    and a reproach to public taste.]
+
+[21] [I learn that he is since DECEASED. Thus the very first chapter of
+    this second edition has to record an instance of the casualties and
+    mutabilities which the short space of ten years has effected. Mons. De
+    la Rue was a man of worth and of virtue.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JAQUES AND ST. REMY. DIVINE
+WORSHIP. MILITARY MASS.
+
+
+The town of Dieppe contains a population of about twenty-thousand
+souls.[22] Of these, by much the greater _stationary_ part are females;
+arising from one third at least of the males being constantly engaged in
+the FISHERIES. As these fisheries are the main support of the inhabitants,
+it is right that you should know something about them. The _herring_
+fishery takes place twice a year: in August and October. The August fishery
+is carried on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty to
+eighty vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty tons burthen each, with about
+fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are freighted with
+salt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing the fish, and they return
+about the end of October. The herrings caught in August are considerably
+preferable to those caught in October. The October fishery is carried on
+with smaller vessels, along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre.
+From one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty vessels, are engaged
+in this latter navigation; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferior
+flavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost entirely to
+the provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh. So much for the
+herring.[23]
+
+The _Mackarel_ fishery usually commences towards the month of July, along
+the coast of Picardy; because, being a sort of fish of passage, it gets
+into the channel in the month of April. It then moves towards the straits
+of Dover, as summer approaches. For this fishery they make use of large
+decked-vessels, from twenty to fifty tons burthen, manned with from twelve
+to twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats employed in this fishery
+which go as far as the Scilly Islands and Ushant, towards the middle of
+April. They carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, which
+are afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior of
+France. The _cod fishery_ is divided into the fresh and dried fish. The
+former continues from the beginning of February to the end of April--and
+the vessels employed, which go as far as Newfoundland, are two deckers, and
+from one hundred to one hundred and fifty tons burthen--although, in fact,
+they rarely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. The
+dried-cod fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes; but it is
+essential that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is more
+cumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about the
+month of March or April, in order that they may have the advantage of the
+summer season, to dry the fish. There are vessels which go to Newfoundland
+laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and woollen cloths, which
+they dispose of to the inhabitants of the French colonies in exchange for
+dried cod. This latter species of commerce may be carried on in the summer
+months--as late as July.
+
+In the common markets for retail trade, they are not very nice in the
+quality or condition of their fish; and enormous conger eels, which would
+be instantly rejected by the middling, or even lower classes in England,
+are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and relished with glee. A few francs
+will procure a dish of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays are
+constantly crowded, but there seems to be more of bustle than of business.
+The town is certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are very
+little more than a century old, and the streets are formal and
+comparatively wide. Indeed it should seem that the houses were built
+expressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited by
+tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans, in apparently very indifferent
+circumstances. I scarcely saw six private houses which could be called
+elegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet noticed in the
+streets. But if the _Dieppois_ are not rich, they seem happy, and are in a
+constant state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, or
+in an insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet (as indeed do all the
+tradesmen's wives), and works or sings as humour sways her. A man sells
+gingerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his customer's coming,
+reads some popular history or romance. Most of the upper windows are wholly
+destitute of glass; but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers.
+The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote to
+odors of a very different description; and here we begin to have a too
+convincing proof of the general character of the country in regard to the
+want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a better-regulated
+police, would speedily get rid of such nuisances. The want of public sewers
+is another great and grievous cause of smells of every description. At
+Dieppe there are fountains in abundance; and if some of the limpid streams,
+which issue from them, were directed to cleansing the streets, (which are
+excellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious and
+pleasant--especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen.
+
+We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, when a loud and clattering sound
+was heard; and down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercing
+crackings of the whip, the thundering _Diligence_: large, lofty, and of
+most unwieldy dimensions: of a structure, too, strong enough to carry a
+half score of elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly _sui
+generis_: gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms with himself.
+He wears the royal livery, red and blue; with a plate of the fleur de lis
+upon his left arm. His hair is tied behind, in a thick, short, tightly
+fastened queue: with powder and pomatum enough to weather a whole winter's
+storm and tempest.[24] As he never rises in his stirrups,[25] I leave you
+to judge of the merciless effects of this ever-beating club upon the
+texture of his jacket. He is however fond of his horses: is well known by
+them; and there is all flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his
+treatment of them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions; such as we see
+sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. of the XVth century.
+He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind him. He sits upon
+the near of the two wheel horses, with three horses before him. His
+turnings are all adroitly and correctly made; and, upon the whole, he is a
+clever fellow in the exercise of his office.
+
+You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly celebrated for its
+manufactures in _Ivory_; but the present aspect of the ivory-market affords
+only a faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth and
+seventeenth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of a
+religious character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter of
+evidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerable
+manufacture of _thread lace_; and between three and four thousand females
+are supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by it.[26]
+
+My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly induced me to visit the
+CHURCHES; and I set out with two English gentlemen to pay our respects to
+the principal church, St. JAQUES. As we entered it, a general gloom
+prevailed, and a sort of premature evening came on; while the clatter of
+the sabots was sufficiently audible along the aisles. In making the circuit
+of the side chapels, an unusual light proceeded from a sort of grated door
+way. We approached, and witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet our
+attention. In what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several
+figures, cut in stone, and coloured after life, (of which they were the
+size) representing the _Three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of Arimathea_..
+in the act of entombing Christ: the figure of our Saviour being half sunk
+into the tomb. The whole was partially illuminated by some two dozen of
+shabby and nearly consumed tallow candles; affording a striking contrast to
+the increasing darkness of the nave and the side aisles. We retired, more
+and more struck with the novelty of every object around us, to our supper
+and beds, which were excellent; and a good night's rest made me forget the
+miseries of the preceding evening.
+
+The next morning, being Sunday, we betook ourselves in good time to the
+service of ST. JAQUES:[27] but on our way thither, we saw a waxen figure of
+Christ (usually called an "Ecce Homo") enclosed within a box, of which the
+doors were opened. The figure and box are the property of the man who plays
+on a violin, close to the box; and who is selling little mass books,
+supposed to be rendered more sacred by having been passed across the feet
+and hands of the waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motley
+group, must strike you with astonishment--as a Sunday morning's recreation.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+By half past ten the congregation had assembled within the Church; and
+every side-chapel (I think about twelve in number) began to be filled by
+the penitent flocks: each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair--with
+which the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of which the _Tarif_
+(or terms of hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure,
+full eighteen women to one man: which may in part be accounted for, by the
+almost uniform absence of a third of the male population occupied in the
+fisheries. I think there could not have been fewer than two thousand souls
+present. But what struck me as the most ludicrously solemn thing I had ever
+beheld, was a huge tall figure, dressed like a drum-major, with a large
+cocked hat and three white plumes, (the only covered male figure in the
+congregation,) a broad white sash upon a complete suit of red, including
+red stockings;--representing what in our country is called a _Beadle_. He
+was a sturdy, grim-looking fellow; bearing an halberd in his right hand,
+which he wielded with a sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into the
+young, and commanding the admiration of the old. I must not, however, omit
+to inform you, that half the service was scarcely performed when the
+preacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermon
+from a printed book. I shall long have a distinct recollection of the
+figure and attitude of the _Verger_ who attended the preacher. He followed
+him to the pulpit, fastened the door, became stationary, and rested his
+left arm over the railings of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff-box
+with his right hand, and regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the most
+joyous and comfortably-abstracted manner imaginable. There he remained till
+the conclusion of the discourse; not one word of which seemed to afford him
+half the satisfaction as did the contents of his snuff-box.
+
+_Military Mass_ was performed about an hour after, at the church of ST.
+REMY, whither I strolled quietly, to witness the devotion of the
+congregation previous to the entry of the soldiers; and I will not
+dissemble being much struck and gratified by what I saw. There was more
+simplicity: a smaller congregation: softer music: a lower-toned organ; less
+rush of people; and in very many of the flock the most intense and
+unfeigned expression of piety. At the elevation of the host, from the end
+of the choir, (near which was suspended a white flag with the portrait of
+the present King[28] upon it) a bell was rung from the tower of the church;
+the sound, below, was soft and silver-toned--accompanied by rather a quick
+movement on the organ, upon the diapason stop; which, united with the
+silence and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded the
+reverence of the most profane.
+
+There is nothing, my dear friend, more gratifying, in a foreign land, than
+the general appearance of earnestness of devotion on a sabbath day;
+especially within the HOUSE OF GOD. However, I quickly heard the clangor of
+the trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and up
+marched two or three troops of the national guard to perform military mass.
+I retired precipitately to the Inn, being well pleased to have escaped this
+strange and distracting sight: so little in harmony with the rites and
+ceremonies of our own church, and in truth so little accordant with the
+service which I had just beheld.
+
+
+[22] [Mons. Licquet says that there were about 17,000 souls in 1824; so
+    that the above number may be that of the amount of its _present_
+    population. "Several changes (says my French translator) have taken
+    place at Dieppe since I saw it: among the rest, there is a magnificent
+    establishment of BATHS, where a crowd of people, of the first
+    distinction, every year resort. Her Royal Highness, the Duchesse de
+    Berri, may be numbered among these Visitors.]
+
+[23] [The common people to this day call a _herring_, a _child of
+    Dieppe._ LICQUET.]
+
+[24] ["Sterne reproaches the French for their hyperbolical language: the
+    air of the country had probably some influence on M. Dibdin when he
+    adopted this phrase." LICQUET.]
+
+[25] ["Signifying, that the French postilions do not ride like the
+    English." LICQUET.]
+
+[26] ["Dieppe for a long time was the rival of Argentan and Caen in the
+    lace-manufactory: at the present day, this branch of commerce is
+    almost annihilated there."--LICQUET.]
+
+[27] [In a note attached to the previous edition--I have said, "Here also,
+    as well as at Rouen; they will have it that the ENGLISH built the
+    Churches." Upon which M. Licquet remarks thus: "M. Dibdin's expression
+    conveys too general an idea. It is true that _popular_ opinion
+    attributes the erection of our gothic edifices to the ENGLISH: but
+    there exists _another_ opinion, which is not deceptive upon this
+    subject." What is meant to be here conveyed? Either the popular
+    opinion is true or false; and it is a matter of perfect indifference
+    to the author whether it be one or the other. For Mons. Licquet's
+    comfort, I will freely avow that I believe it to be _false_.]
+
+[28] [Louis XVIII.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSEMENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
+BOULEVARDS.
+
+
+As I had received especial injunctions from our friend P--- not to leave
+Dieppe without paying a visit to the famous _Chateau d'Arques_[29], in its
+neighbourhood, I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably fair, or
+rather gray-looking day, to go and pay due homage to those venerable
+remains of antiquity. The road thither is completely rural: apple-trees,
+just beginning to burst their blossoms; hamlets, small farm-houses: a
+profusion of rich herbage of various kinds--delighted and regaled me as I
+pursued my tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating character;
+but the flats or meadows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subject
+to constant inundation from the sea; and in an agricultural point of view
+are consequently of little use, except for summer grazing of the cattle.
+
+It was drawing on to vespers as I approached the _Village of Arques_. The
+old castle had frequently peeped out upon me, in my way thither, from its
+elevated situation; but being resolved to see "all that could be seen," a
+French village, for the first time, was not to be overlooked. For a country
+church, I know of few finer ones than that of Arques.[30]
+
+The site of the castle is admirable. My approach was to the western
+extremity; which, as you look down, brings the village and church of Arques
+in the back ground. If the eye were to be considered as a correct judge,
+this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, intermixed with brick,
+would perhaps claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over most of the
+castles of the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a bold
+acclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, to
+the foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers at the
+extremities, and a square citadel or donjon within. To the north, a good
+deal of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of the wall. The
+day harmonised admirably with the venerable object before me. The sunshine
+lasted but for a minute: when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not a
+single catch of radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All was
+quiet, and of a sombre aspect,--and what _you_, in your admiration of art,
+would call in perfectly "fine keeping."
+
+I descended the hill, bidding a long adieu to this venerable relic of the
+hardihood of other times, and quickened my pace towards Dieppe. In gaining
+upon the town, I began to discern groups of rustics, as well as of
+bourgeoises, assembling and mingling in the dance. The women never think of
+wearing bonnets, and you have little idea how picturesquely the red and
+blue[31] (the colours of Raffaelle's Madonnas) glanced backwards and
+forwards amidst the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit-stirring
+violin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gave
+the finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and to
+their credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily dressed than the
+men. The couples are frequently female, for want of a sufficient number of
+swains; but, whether correctly or incorrectly paired, they dance with
+earnestness, if not with grace. It was a picture a la Teniers, without its
+occasional grossness. This then, said I to myself, is what I have so often
+heard of the sabbath-gambols of the French--and long may they enjoy them!
+They are surely better than the brutal orgies of the pot-house, or the
+fanatical ravings of the tabernacle.[32]
+
+A late plain dinner, with my favourite vin ordinaire, recruited my
+strength, and kept me in perfectly good humour with Dieppe.
+
+The deportment of the _Dieppois_[33] towards the English, is, upon the
+whole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits by the
+liberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, as soon
+as they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing the _G---- d----_;
+and a few horribly-deformed and importunate beggars are for ever assailing
+the doors of the hotels. But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil
+as I had anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate the
+poverty of the inhabitants; their houses being too large to be entirely
+occupied. Bonaparte appears to have been anxious about the strengthening of
+the harbour; the navigation into which is somewhat difficult and intricate.
+The sides of the walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong; and
+raised batteries would render any hostile approach extremely hazardous to
+the assailants.
+
+There is no ship-building at this moment going on: the ribs of about half a
+dozen, half rotted, small merchant-craft, being all that is discernible.
+But much is projected, and much is hoped from such projects. Dieppe has
+questionless many local advantages both by land and by sea; yet it will
+require a long course of years to infuse confidence and beget a love of
+enterprise. In spite of all the _naval zeal_, it is here exhibited chiefly
+as affording means of subsistence from the fisheries. I must not however
+conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far and near
+for a good bookseller and for some old books--but found nothing worth the
+search, except a well-printed early _Rouen Missal_, and _Terence_ by
+_Badius Ascensius_. The booksellers are supplied with books chiefly from
+Rouen; the local press being too insignificant to mention.
+
+
+[29] The French Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the
+    11th century, supposing it to have been built by _William d'Arques_,
+    Count of Tallon, son of the second marriage of Richard Duke of
+    Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built, the sea almost washed
+    its base: for it is known to have occupied the whole of what is called
+    the _Valley of Arques_, running as far as _Bouteilles_. Its position,
+    in reference to the art of war, must have been almost impregnable.
+    Other hypotheses assign its origin to the ninth or tenth century.
+    Whenever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1144, it
+    was commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the
+    crosier, but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history,
+    up to the sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details; but in
+    the wars of Henry IV. with the League, in 1589, it was taken by
+    surprise by soldiers in the disguise of sailors: who, killing the
+    centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry caused
+    it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the eighteenth
+    century it received very severe treatment from pillage, for the
+    purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe. At present
+    (in the language of the author of the _Rouen Itinerary_) "it is the
+    abode of silence--save when that silence is interrupted by owls and
+    other nocturnal birds." The view of it in Mr. Cotman's work is very
+    faithful.
+
+[30] The _Itineraire de Rouen_, 1816, p. 202, says, absurdly, that
+    this church is of the XIth century. It is perhaps with more truth of
+    the beginning of the XIVth century. A pleasing view of it is in Mr.
+    Dawson Turner's elegant Tour in Normandy, 1818, 8vo. 2 vol. It
+    possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV., which is supposed to have been
+    placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by Henry over
+    the Duke of Mayenne in 1589.
+
+[31] The blue gown and red petticoat; or vice versa.
+
+[32] [I am anxious that the above sentence should stand precisely as it
+    appeared in the first edition of this work; because a circumstance has
+    arisen from it, which could have been as little in the anticipation,
+    as it is in the comprehension, of the author. A lady, of high
+    connections, and of respectable character, conceived the passage in
+    question to be somewhat indecorous; or revolting to the serious sense
+    entertained by all Christians, and especially by CHRISTIAN MINISTERS,
+    of the mode of devoting the Sabbath day. In consequence, being in
+    possession of a copy of this work, she DIVIDED it into two; not being
+    willing to sully the splendour of the plates by the supposed impurity
+    of such a passage:--and the prints were accordingly bound APART. The
+    passage--as applied to the FRENCH PEOPLE--requires neither comment nor
+    qualification; and in the same unsophisticated view of religious
+    duties, the _latter_ part may be as strictly applied to the
+    ENGLISH.]
+
+[33] The dress of the _sailors_ is the same as it was in the XIVth
+    century; and so probably is that of the women. The illuminations in
+    Froissard and Monstrelet clearly give us the Norman cauchoise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY.
+
+
+Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary city in the
+world. One rubs one's eyes, and fancies one is dreaming, upon being carried
+through the streets of this old-fashioned place: or that, by some secret
+talismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objects
+of art, at the commencement of the sixteenth century: so very curious, and
+out of the common appearance of things, is almost every object connected
+with ROUEN. But before I commence my observations upon the _town_, I must
+give you a brief sketch of my _journey_ hither. We had bespoke our places
+in the cabriolet of the Diligence, which just holds three tolerably
+comfortable; provided there be a disposition to accommodate each other.
+This cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, or
+phaeton seat, with a covering of leather in the front of the coach. It is
+fortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece of
+iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means of a hook on the
+perpendicular supporter of the head. There are stiffish leathern curtains
+on each side, to be drawn, if necessary, as a protection against the rain,
+&c. You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no very
+uncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4th
+day after our arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we could
+hardly refrain from loud laughter at the novelty of our situation, and the
+grotesqueness of the conveyance. Our Postilion was a rare specimen of his
+species, and a perfectly _unique copy_. He fancied himself, I suppose,
+rather getting "into the vale of years," and had contrived to tinge his
+cheeks with a plentiful portion of rouge.[34] His platted and powdered hair
+was surmounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded ribband:
+his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his order (the royal
+arms) upon his left arm. What struck me as not a little singular, was, that
+his countenance was no very faint resemblance of that of _Voltaire_, when
+he might have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly he
+resembled him in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of his
+mouth. We rolled merrily along--the horses sometimes spreading, and
+sometimes closing, according to the size of the streets through which we
+were compelled to pass. The reins and harness are of _cord_; which, however
+keep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidity
+of the descent by conducting the wheels over small piles of gravel or
+rubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch; so that,
+to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlooking the whole process, the
+effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little in
+changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed, and in
+general no accidents occur.
+
+The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition.
+There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient
+line of demarkation. The country is open, and gently undulating; with
+scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-scenery, till you get
+towards the conclusion of the first stage. Nothing particularly strikes you
+till you approach _Malaunai_, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and
+of course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautiful
+village repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should have
+been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk serpentine trout stream are
+studded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear to
+be carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hanging
+woods; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the branches
+with green in our own country, yet _here_ there was a general freshness of
+verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple; altogether
+rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there were
+delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have
+embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for the
+gratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not quickly
+fall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained their
+purses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise. Along the road-side
+there were some few houses of entertainment; and we observed the emptied
+cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of the gardens, where
+Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistas,
+and tittered as John Bull saluted them. Moving vehicles, and numerous
+riding and walking groups, increased upon us; and every thing announced
+that we were approaching a _great and populous city_.
+
+The approach to ROUEN is indeed magnificent. I speak of the immediate
+approach; after you reach the top of a considerable rise, and are stopped
+by the barriers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly paved
+road, lined with a double row of trees on each side. As the foliage was not
+thickly set, we could discern, through the delicately-clothed branches, the
+tapering spire of the CATHEDRAL, and the more picturesque tower of the
+ABBAYE ST. OUEN--with hanging gardens, and white houses, to the
+left--covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink as it were
+into the _Boulevards_, and which is called the _Faubourg Cauchoise_. To the
+right, through the trees, you see the river SEINE (here of no despicable
+depth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in motion: the voice of
+commerce, and the stir of industry, cheering and animating you as you
+approach the town. I was told that almost every vessel which I saw (some of
+them of two hundred, and even of three hundred tons burthen) was filled
+with brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of long
+ropes, across the road; and the whole scene is of a truly novel and
+imposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what I
+experienced, as, turning to the left, and leaving the broader streets which
+flank the quay, I began to enter the _penetralia_ of this truly antiquated
+town? What narrow streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre,
+capricious ornaments! What a mixture of modern with ancient art! What
+fragments, or rather ruins, of old delicately-built Gothic churches! What
+signs of former and of modern devastation! What fountains, gutters, groups
+of never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay, all occupied, and all
+apparently happy! The _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_ (so called from a huge,
+clumsy, antiquated clock which goes across it) struck me as being not among
+the least singular streets of Rouen. In five minutes I was within the
+court-yard of the _Hotel Vatel_, the favourite residence of the English.
+
+It was evening when I arrived, in company with three Englishmen. We were
+soon saluted by the _laquais de place_--the leech-like hangers-on of every
+hotel--who begged to know if we would walk upon the Boulevards. We
+consented; turned to the right; and, gradually rising, gained a
+considerable eminence. Again we turned to the right, walking upon a raised
+promenade; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundred
+walled gardens, perfumed the air with a delicious fragrance. As we
+continued our route along the _Boulevard Beauvoisine_, we gained one of the
+most interesting and commanding views imaginable of the city of Rouen--just
+at that moment lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious sun-set--which
+gave a breadth and a mellower tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral and
+the Abbey of St. Ouen. The situation of Rouen renders it necessarily
+picturesque, view it from what spot you will.
+
+The population of Rouen is supposed to be full one hundred thousand souls.
+In truth, there is no end to the succession of human beings. They swarm
+like bees, and like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of their
+industry. You have all the bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill;
+only that the ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half as
+broad. Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-street,--and yet
+you cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen: filled with the flaunting
+cauchoise, and echoing to the eternal tramp of the sabot. There they are;
+men, women, and children--all abroad in the very centre of the streets:
+alternately encountering the splashing of the gutter, and the jostling of
+their townsmen--while the swift cabriolet, or the slow-paced cart, or the
+thundering _Diligence_, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only that
+they may seem to be yet more condensely united. For myself, it is with
+difficulty I believe that I am not living in the times of our Henry VIII.
+and of their Francis I.; and am half disposed to inquire after the
+residence of _Guillaume Tailleur_ the printer--the associate, or foreign
+agent of your favourite _Pynson_.[35]
+
+
+[34] [Mons. Licquet here observes, "This is the first time I have heard it
+    said that our Postilions put on rouge." What he adds, shall be given
+    in his own pithy expression.--"Ou la coquetterie va-t-elle se nicher?"
+    What, however is above stated, was stated from a _conviction_ of
+    its being TRUE]
+
+[35] [The third English Printer.] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_,
+    vol. ii. p. 137, 8.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.
+THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST. VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN,
+ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL.
+
+
+I have now made myself pretty well acquainted with the geography of Rouen.
+How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a satisfactory, description of
+it? It cannot be done. You love old churches, old books, and relics of
+ancient art. These be my themes, therefore: so fancy yourself either
+strolling leisurely with me, arm in arm, in the streets--or sitting at my
+elbow. First for THE CATHEDRAL:--for what traveller of taste does not doff
+his bonnet to the _Mother Church_ of the town through which he happens to
+be travelling--or in which he takes up a temporary abode? The
+west-front,[36] always the _forte_ of the architect's skill, strikes you as
+you go down, or come up, the principal street--_La Rue des Carmes_,--which
+seems to bisect the town into equal parts. A small open space, (which
+however has been miserably encroached upon by petty shops) called the
+_Flower-garden_, is before this western front; so that it has some little
+breathing room in which to expand its beauties to the wondering eyes of the
+beholder. In my poor judgment, this western front has very few elevations
+comparable with it[37]--including even those of _Lincoln_ and _York_. The
+ornaments, especially upon the three porches, between the two towers, are
+numerous, rich, and for the greater part entire:--in spite of the
+Calvinists,[38] the French revolution, and time. Among the lower and
+smaller basso-relievos upon these porches, is the subject of the daughter
+of Herodias dancing before Herod. She is manoeuvering on her hands, her
+feet being upwards. To the right, the decapitation of St. John is taking
+place.
+
+The southern transept makes amends for the defects of the northern. The
+space before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable market: curious old
+houses encircle this space: and the ascent to the door, but more especially
+the curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open spaces in the upper
+part--light, fanciful and striking to a degree--produce an effect as
+pleasing as it is extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of
+devotees, going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the frittered
+ornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour and
+activity of devotion is almost equal to that of business.[39]
+
+As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps,
+you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and with the
+lightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. Perhaps the
+nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large tower
+is beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massive
+clustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference;[40] but on casting
+your eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless division of the choir
+from the nave by what is called a _Grecian screen_: and the interior of the
+transepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows
+of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit your
+attention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, upon
+entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral: of a date,
+little less ancient than that of the northern tower; and perhaps of the end
+of the twelfth century. It contains by much the finest specimens of stained
+glass--of the early part of the XVIth century. There is also some beautiful
+stained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,[41] behind the
+choir; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being
+composed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost
+all the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been made
+among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists.[42]
+
+Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous ROLLO lies in
+one of the side-chapels, farther down to the right, upon entering; although
+his monument cannot be older than the thirteenth century. My attachment to
+the bibliomanical celebrity of JOHN, DUKE OF BEDFORD, will naturally lead
+me to the notice of his interment and monumental inscription. The latter is
+thus;
+
+    _Ad dextrum Altaris Latus_
+
+    _Jacet_
+
+    IOANNES DUX BETFORDI
+
+    _Normanniae pro Rex_
+
+    _Obiit Anno_
+
+    MCCCCXXXV.
+
+The Duke's tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford's Genealogical
+History,[43] p. 314; which plate, in fact, is the identical one used by
+Ducarel; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-Norman
+Antiquities without any expense to himself![44]
+
+There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye's _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale
+de Rouen_, p. 203, respecting the Duke's taking the habit of a canon of the
+cathedral. He attended, with his first wife, ANNE OF BURGUNDY, and threw
+himself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received by
+them as one of their order: "il les prioit d'etre receu parmy eux comme un
+de leurs freres, et d'avoir tous les jours distribution de pain et de vin,
+et pour marque de fraternite d'etre vetu du surplis et de l'aumusse: comme
+aussi d'etre associe, luy et sa tres genereuse et tres illustre epouse, aux
+suffrages de leur compagnie, et a la participation de tous les biens qu'il
+plaira a Dieu leur donner la grace d'operer," p. 204. A grand procession
+marked the day of the Duke's admission into the monkish fraternity. The
+whole of this, with an account of the Duke's superb presents to the
+sacristy, his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion of
+"eight loaves and four gallons of wine," are distinctly narrated by the
+minute Pommeraye.
+
+As you approach the _Chapel of the Virgin_, you pass by an ancient
+monument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing behind a thin
+pillar, within a pretty ornamented Gothic arch.[45] To the eye of a
+tasteful antiquary this cannot fail to have its due attraction. While
+however we are treading upon hallowed ground, rendered if possible more
+sacred by the ashes of the illustrious dead, let us move gently onwards
+towards the _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir. See, what bold and
+brilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar! How
+gracefully they kneel and how devoutly they pray! They are the figures of
+the CARDINALS D'AMBOISE--uncle and nephew:--the former, minister of Louis
+XII.[46] and (what does not necessarily follow, but what gives him as high
+a claim upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beautifier of the
+glorious building in which you are contemplating his figure. This splendid
+monument is entirely of black and white marble, of the early part of the
+sixteenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneeling
+upon cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fretwork. They are in their
+professional robes; their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with the
+hair in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of _St. George_,
+their tutelary saint, is below them, in gilded marble: and the whole base,
+or lower frieze, of the monument, is surrounded by six delicately
+sculptured females, about three feet high, emblematic of the virtues for
+which these cardinals were so eminently distinguished. These figures,
+representing Faith, Charity, Prudence, Force, Justice, and Temperance, are
+flanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved niches; while, above them,
+are the twelve Apostles, not less beautifully executed.[47]
+
+On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and liberality--and
+with one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of the deceased--let us
+fancy we hear the sound of the GREAT BELL from the south-west tower ...
+called the _Amboise Tower_ ... erected, both the bell and the tower, by the
+uncle and minister AMBOISE. Know, my dear friend, that there was _once_ a
+bell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to send forth its
+sound, for three successive centuries, from the said tower. This bell was
+broken about thirty years ago, and destroyed in the ravages of the
+immediately succeeding years.[48] The south-west tower remains, and the
+upper part of the central tower, with the whole of the lofty wooden
+spire:--the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men of whom such
+honourable mention has been made. Considering that this spire is very
+lofty, and composed of wood, _it is surprising that it has not been
+destroyed by tempest, or by lightning_.[49] The taste of it is rather
+capricious than beautiful.
+
+I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only commenced the
+account of them.[50] Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of the
+altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I have just been dilating.
+It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly expression of countenance,
+representing the moment when the last breath has escaped from the body. It
+is the figure of the Grand SENESCHAL DE BREZE,[51]--Governor of Rouen, and
+husband of the celebrated DIANE DE POICTIERS--that thus claims our
+attention. This figure is quite naked, lying upon its back, with the right
+hand placed on the stomach, but in an action which indicates _life_--and
+therefore it is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned; for the head
+being fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly expression of
+countenance--indicating that some time has elapsed since it breathed its
+last--the hand could not rest in this position. The cenotaph is of black
+marble, disfigured by the names of idle visitors who choose to leave such
+impertinent memorials behind. The famous GOUJON is supposed to be the
+sculptor of the figure, which is painfully clever, but it strikes me as
+being too small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong and
+fleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the countenance.
+Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and lifeless, there is another and a
+very clever representation of him, on a smaller scale, on horseback.
+
+On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious injury) are two
+females in white marble; one representing the VIRGIN, and the other DIANE
+DE POICTIERS:[52] they are little more than half the size of life. The
+whole is in the very best style of the sculpture of the time of Francis I.
+These precious specimens of art, as well as several other similar remains,
+were carried away during the revolution, to a place of safety. The choir is
+spacious, and well adapted to its purposes; but who does not grieve to see
+the Archbishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the Gothic
+order, and executed at the end of the XVth century, transformed into a
+stately common-place canopy, supported by columns of chestnut-wood carved
+in the Grecian style? The LIBRARY, which used to terminate the north
+transept, is--not gone--but transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with an
+appropriate inscription,[53] yet attest that it was formerly an appendage
+to that part of the edifice.
+
+Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to tell you
+something relating to the rites performed therein. Let us quit therefore
+the dead for the living. Of course we saw, here, a repetition of the
+ceremonies observed at Dieppe; but previously to the feast of the
+_Ascension_ we were also present at the confirmation of three hundred boys
+and three hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately dressed, in a
+sort of sabbath attire, and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand.
+The girls were dressed in white, with white veils; and the rich lent veils
+to those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral,
+especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair, stood
+up, and gazed as earnestly as the rest. The interest excited among the
+parents, and especially the mothers, was very striking. "Voila la
+petite--qu'elle a l'air charmant!--le petit ange!"....A stir is made ...
+they rise... and approach, in the most measured order, the rails of the
+choir ... There they deposit their tapers. The priests, very numerous,
+extinguish them as dexterously as they can; and the whole cathedral is
+perfumed with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on
+approaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel down; then shut
+their eyes, open their mouths; and the priests deposit the consecrated
+wafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a different direction.
+They all went into the nave, where a sermon was preached to the young
+people, expressly upon the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of
+the cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popularity. He had one of the
+most meagre and forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was
+black and unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently:
+making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left arm--and
+displaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner, wholly exempt
+from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and feelings of his
+youthful audience. His subject was "belief in Christ Jesus;" on which he
+gave very excellent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin, but clear,
+and distinctly heard.
+
+And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this detour of the
+CATHEDRAL, suppose we take a promenade to the next most important
+ecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you therefore to a
+stroll to the ABBEY of ST. OUEN? "Willingly," methinks I hear you reply. To
+the abbey therefore let us go.
+
+Leaving the Cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of the
+early time of Francis I.) which stands at the corner of a street, to the
+right; and which, from its central situation, is visited the live-long day
+for the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then, turning
+to the right, you get into a sort of square, and observe the ABBEY--or
+rather the _west-front_ of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are first
+struck with its matchless window: call it rose, or marygold, as you please.
+I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is perfectly
+unrivalled. There is a play of line in the mullions, which, considering
+their size and strength, may be pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You
+approach, regretting the neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter,
+through the large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the
+Abbey. It was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening
+was beautiful; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through the
+stained glass of the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The
+window itself, as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the
+centre of it, from the remote end of the Abbey, or the _Lady's Chapel_, was
+a perfect blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemed
+magically illumined ...
+
+  Seemed all on fire--within, around;
+  Deep sacristy and altar's pale;
+  Shone every pillar foliage-bound....
+
+  _Lay of the Last Minstrel_.
+
+We declared instinctively that the ABBEY OF ST. OUEN could hardly have a
+rival;--certainly not a superior.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel and recess
+was rendered doubly impressive by the devotion of numerous straggling
+supplicants; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the place, reached
+the ears and touched the hearts of the bystanders. The grand western
+entrance presents you with the most perfect view of the choir--a magical
+circle, or rather oval--flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and free
+from the surrounding obstruction of screens, &c. Nothing more airy and more
+captivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and delicacy of these
+pillars are quite surprising. Above, below, around--every thing is in the
+purest style of the XIVth and XVth centuries. The central tower is a tower
+of beauty as well as of strength. Yet in regard to further details,
+connected with the interior, it must be admitted that there is very little
+more which is deserving of particular description; except it be _the
+gallery_, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir, and which is
+considerably more light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A great
+deal has been said about the circular windows at the end of the south
+transept, and they are undoubtedly elegant: but compared with the one at
+the extremity of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the tale
+attached to them, than from their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, is
+briefly this. These windows were finished (as well as the larger one at the
+west front) about the year 1439. One of them was executed by the
+master-mason, the other by his apprentice; and on being criticised by
+competent judges, the performance of the _latter_ was said to eclipse that
+of the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and revengeful,
+and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned,
+and executed; but an existing monument to his memory attests the humanity
+of the monks in giving him Christian interment.[54] On the whole, it is the
+absence of all obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which gives to the
+interior of this building that light, unencumbered, and faery-like effect
+which so peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that I
+never remember to have felt within any other similar edifice.
+
+Let me however put in a word for the _Organ_. It is immense, and perhaps
+larger than that belonging to the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those of
+the organ in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced the
+pavement beneath, and think that this organ cannot be short of forty
+English feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches which I have yet seen,
+the organs strike me as being of magnificent dimensions.
+
+You should be informed however that the extreme length of the interior,
+from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its opposite western
+extremity, is about four hundred and fifty English feet; while the height,
+from the pavement to the roof of the nave, or the choir, is one hundred and
+eight English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and forty feet in
+length. The central tower, upon the whole, is not only the grandest tower
+in Rouen, but there is nothing for its size in our own country that can
+compare with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof of the
+church; and is supported below, or rather within, by four magnificent
+cluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference. Its
+area, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty-six feet square. The choir
+is flanked by flying buttresses, which have a double tier of small arches,
+altogether "marvellous and curious to behold."
+
+I could not resist stealing quietly round to the porch of the _south
+transept_, and witnessing, in that porch, one of the most chaste, light,
+and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be contemplated.
+Indeed, I hardly know any thing like it.[55] The leaves of the poplar and
+ash were beginning to mantle the exterior; and, seen through their green
+and gay lattice work, the traceries of the porch seemed to assume a more
+interesting aspect. They are now mending the upper part of the facade with
+new stone of peculiar excellence--but it does not harmonise with the old
+work. They merit our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remains
+of this precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern and
+north-eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded with promenades
+and trees: so that, occasionally, either when walking, or sitting upon the
+benches, within these gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginable
+of the abbey.
+
+At this early season of the year, much company is assembled every evening
+in these walks: while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing the
+western end, the national guard is exercised in the day time--and troops of
+fair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening,
+while a platform is erected for the instrumental performers, and for the
+exhibition of feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouen
+without being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasionally to
+"make revel" within the Abbot's house. Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III,
+each took a fancy to this spot--but especially the famous HENRI QUATRE. It
+is reported that that monarch sojourned here for four months--- and his
+reply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved
+both in MS. and by engravings. "The King having arrived at St. Ouen (says
+an old MS.)[56] the keys of the tower were presented to him, in the
+presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a
+velvet-cushion. The keys were gilt. The King took them, and replacing them
+in the hands of the governor, said--"Mon cousin, je vous les baille pour
+les rendre, qu'ils les gardent;"--then, addressing the aldermen, he added,
+"Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi que
+vous ayez jamais eu."
+
+Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, "go by all means and see the church _St.
+Maclou_"--say your friends and your guides. The Abbe Turquier accompanied
+me thither. The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch.
+Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains. This is about 160
+English feet in height. Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet
+in height, constructed of wood and lead--but which has been nearly
+destroyed for the sake of the lead,--for the purpose of slaughter or
+resistance during the late revolution.[57] The exteriors of the porches are
+remarkable for their elaborate ornaments; especially those in the _Rue
+Martainville._ They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed
+to be after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they are rather
+encumbered with ornament, and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste,
+which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and of the Abbey St. Ouen.
+However, let critics determine as they will upon this point--they must at
+least unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate
+pieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of
+staring yellow ochre!
+
+Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four: two of them chiefly
+remarkable for their interior, and two for their extreme antiquity. Of the
+two former, that of _St. Vincent_ presents you with a noble organ, with a
+light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer accompaniment!) in very excellent
+taste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich,
+varied, and vivid to a degree; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen
+of this species of art in the present ecclesiastical remains of the city.
+_St. Vivien_ is the second of these two former. It is a fine open church,
+with a large organ, having a very curious wooden screen in front,
+elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of the
+sixteenth century. I ascended the organ-loft; and the door happening to be
+open, I examined this screen (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre
+edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Such
+pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time,
+within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir: walked
+gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature was
+in the church) and, "with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured to
+open the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide,
+thick, and ponderous: upon vellum: beautifully written and well executed in
+every respect, with the exception of the illuminations which were extremely
+indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad,
+are open at all times of the day: the ancient or more massive door, or
+portal, is secured from shutting; but a temporary, small, shabby wooden
+door, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular
+hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one.
+
+Of the two ancient churches, above alluded to, that of _St. Gervais_, is
+situated considerably to the north of where the _Boulevards Cauchoise_ and
+_Bouvreuil_ meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman
+historians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses:
+considering it as a _lieu de plaisance._ Here too it was that the Conqueror
+came to breathe his last--desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace
+in the city, for the benefit of the pure air.[58] I walked with M. Le
+Prevost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the
+_Crypt_ is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity.
+The same accomplished guide bade me remark the extraordinary formation of
+the capitals of the pillars: which, admitting some perversity of taste in a
+rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character.
+"Perhaps," said M. Le Prevost, "the last efforts of Roman art previous to
+the relinquishment of the Romans." Among these capitals there is one of the
+perfect Doric order; while in another you discover the remains of two Roman
+eagles. The columns are all of the same height; and totally unlike every
+thing of the kind which I have seen or heard of.
+
+We descended the hill upon which _St. Gervais_ is built, and walked onward
+towards _St. Paul_, situated at the further and opposite end of the town,
+upon a gentle eminence, just above the Banks of the Seine.[59] M. Le
+Prevost was still our conductor. This small edifice is certainly of remote
+antiquity, but I suspect it to be completely Norman. The eastern end is
+full of antiquarian curiosities. We observed something like a Roman mask as
+the centre ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; and
+Mr. Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in the
+exterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fashion. The _Saxon whiskers_
+are discoverable upon several of these faces. Upon the whole, it is
+possible that parts of this church may have been built at the latter end of
+the tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves completely masters
+of this part of the kingdom; yet it is more probable that there is no
+vestige left which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of the
+eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of _St. Sever_,[60]
+supposed by some to be yet more ancient: but I had no opportunity of taking
+a particular survey of it.
+
+Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES
+of Rouen. They merit indeed a volume of themselves. This city could once
+boast of upwards of _thirty parish churches_; of which very nearly a
+_dozen_ have been recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into
+_warehouses_. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy melange--this strange
+misappropriation of what was formerly held most sacred, to the common and
+lowest purposes of civil life! You enter these warehouses, or offices of
+business, and see the broken shaft, the battered capital, and
+half-demolished altar-piece--the gilded or the painted frieze--in the midst
+of bales of goods--casks, ropes, and bags of cotton: while, without, the
+same spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured column, and tottering
+arch way. Thus time brings its changes and decays--premature as well as
+natural: and the noise of the car-men and injunctions of the clerk are now
+heard, where formerly there reigned a general silence, interrupted only by
+the matin or evening chaunt! I deplored this sort of sacrilegious
+adaptation, to a respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doors
+upon a chair, and smoking his pipe--"c'est dommage, Monsieur, qu'on a
+converti l'eglise a"--He stopped me: raised his left hand: then took away
+his pipe with his right; gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up his
+shoulders, half archly and half drily exclaimed--"Mais que voulez vous,
+Monsieur?--ce sont des evenemens qu'on ne peut ni prevoir ni prevenir.
+Voila ce que c'est!" Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable morceau
+of philosophy, consider me ever, &c.
+
+
+[36] A most ample and correct view of this west front will be found in Mr.
+    _Cotman's Norman Antiquities_.
+
+[37] It is about 180 English feet in width, by about 150 in the highest
+    part of its elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr. Frere's,
+    bookseller, upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois,
+    were very inadequate representations of the building.
+
+[38] The ravages committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of
+    the towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the
+    year 1560, afford a melancholy proof of the effects of RELIGIOUS
+    ANIMOSITY. But the Calvinists were bitter and ferocious persecutors.
+    Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, _Histoire de l'Eglise Cathedrale de
+    Rouen_, 1686, has devoted nearly one hundred pages to an account of
+    Calvinistic depredations.
+
+[39] [Mr. Cotman has a plate of the elevation of the front of this south
+    transept; and a very minute and brilliant one will be found in the
+    previous edition of this Tour--by Mr. Henry le Keux: for which that
+    distinguished Artist received the sum of 100 guineas. The remuneration
+    was well merited.]
+
+[40] [Mons. Licquet says each clustered pillar contains thirty-one
+    columns.]
+
+[41] This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in
+    width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de
+    Champagne, at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering
+    so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the
+    XIVth century: the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the
+    XVth. On completing the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to
+    count not fewer than _twenty-five_ chapels.
+
+[42] [Mons. Licquet is paraphrastically warm in his version, here. He
+    renders it thus: "les atteintes effroyables du vandalisme
+    revolutionaire," vol. i. p. 64.]
+
+[43] Sandford, after telling us that he thinks there "never was any
+    portraiture" of the Duke, thus sums up his character. "He was justly
+    accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed out of the
+    royal stem of PLANTAGENET. His valour was not more terrible to his
+    enemies than his memory honourable; for (doubtful whether with more
+    glory to him, or to the speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh being
+    counselled by certain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with
+    him, saith one, was buried all English men's good fortune in France)
+    used these indeed princely words: 'What honour shall it be to us, or
+    you, to break this monument, and to pull out of the ground the bones
+    of HIM, whom, in his life time, neither my father nor your
+    progenitors, with all their puissance, were once able to make flie a
+    foot backwarde? who, by his strength, policy and wit kept them all out
+    of the principal dominions of France, and out of this noble duchy of
+    Normandy? Wherefore, I say first, GOD SAVE HIS SOUL; and let his body
+    now lie in rest, which when he was alive, would have disquieted the
+    proudest of us all. And for THIS TOMB, I assure you it is not so
+    worthy or convenient as his honour and acts have deserved.'" p. 314-5,
+    Ed. 1707[A] The famous MISSAL, once in the possession of this
+    celebrated nobleman, and containing the only authenticated portrait of
+    him (which is engraved in the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. i. p.
+    cxxxvii.) is now the property of John Milner, Esq. of York Place,
+    Portman Square, who purchased it of the Duke of Marlborough. The Duke
+    had purchased it at the sale of the library of the late James Edwards,
+    Esq. for 687l. 15s.
+
+        [A] [Upon this, Mons. Licquet, with supposed shrewdness and
+        success, remarks,--"All very well: but we must not forget that the
+        innocent Joan of Arc was burnt alive--thanks to this said Duke of
+        Bedford, as every one knows!"]
+
+[44] [A different tale may be told of ONE of his Successors in the same
+    Anglo-Norman pursuit. The expenses attending the graphic
+    embellishments alone of the previous edition of this work, somewhat
+    exceeded the sum of _four thousand seven hundred pounds._ The risk was
+    entirely my own. The result was the loss of about 200l.: exclusively
+    of the expences incurred in travelling about 2000 miles. The
+    _copper-plates_ (notwithstanding every temptation, and many
+    entreaties, to _multiply_ impressions of several of the subjects
+    engraved) were DESTROYED. There may be something more than a mere
+    negative consolation, in finding that the work is RISING in price,
+    although its author has long ceased to partake of any benefit
+    resulting from it.]
+
+[45] A plate of this Monument is published in the Tour of Normandy by
+    Dawson Turner, Esq.
+
+[46] The Cardinal died in his fiftieth year only; and his funeral was
+    graced and honoured by the presence of his royal master. Guicciardini
+    calls him "the oracle and right arm of Louis." Of eight brothers, whom
+    he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His nephew
+    succeeded him as Archbishop. See also _Historia Genealogica Magnatum
+    Franciae_; vol. vii. p. 129; quoted in the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. col. 96.
+
+    It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of
+    Amboise--namely, that of CHARLES of BOURBON--that the _Calvanistic
+    persecution_ commenced. "Tunc vero coepit civitas, dioecesis,
+    universaque provincia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, saevientibus
+    ob religionis dissidia plusquam civilibus bellis," &c. But then the
+    good Archbishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor
+    at _Roncesvalles_, (when he escorted Philip II.'s first wife
+    Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. to the confines of Spain, after he
+    had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the
+    irritated minds of the Calvinists, by BURNING ALIVE, in 1559, _John
+    Cottin_, one of their most eminent preachers, by way of striking
+    terror into the rest! Well might the Chronicler observe, as the
+    result, "novas secta illa in dies acquirebat vires." About 1560-2, the
+    Calvinists got the upper hand; and repaid the Catholics with a
+    vengeance. Charles of Bourbon died in 1590: so that he had an arduous
+    and agitated time of it.
+
+[47] How long will this monument--(matchless of its kind)--continue
+    unrepresented by the BURIN? If Mr. Henry Le Keux were to execute it in
+    his best style, the world might witness in it a piece of Art entirely
+    perfect of its kind. But let the pencils of Messrs. Corbould and Blore
+    be first exercised on the subject. In the mean while, why is GALLIC
+    ART inert?
+
+[48] The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or
+    rather from the space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass
+    grating, full of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments--another
+    testimony of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister
+    of Louis XII.: whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St.
+    George, were seen in the centre of every compartment ... The
+    Revolution has not left a vestige behind!
+
+[49] [In this edition, I put the above passage in _Italics_,--to
+    mark, that, within three years of writing it, the spire was consumed
+    by LIGHTNING. The newspapers of both France and England were full of
+    this melancholy event; and in the year 1823, Monsieur Hyacinthe
+    Langlois, of Rouen, published an account of it, together with some
+    views (indifferently lithographised) of the progress of the burning.
+    "It should seem (says Mons. Licquet) that the author had a
+    presentiment of what was speedily to take place:--for the rest, the
+    same species of destruction threatens all similar edifices, for the
+    want of conductors." I possess a fragment of the lead of the roof, as
+    it was collected after a state of _fusion_--and sent over to me
+    by some friend at Rouen. The fusion has caused portions of the lead to
+    assume a variety of fantastic shapes--not _altogether_ unlike a
+    gothic building.]
+
+[50] Let me add that the whole length of the cathedral is about four
+    hundred and forty feet; and the transept about one hundred and
+    seventy-five; English measure. The height of the nave is about ninety,
+    and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The
+    length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet.
+
+[51] He died in 1531. Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are
+    inserted by Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin; and formerly there was
+    seen, in the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal
+    habited as a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did
+    not outlive the Revolution.
+
+[52] It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses
+
+      _Indivulsa tibi quondam et fidissima conjux
+      Vt fuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo_.
+
+    to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have "moved
+    the bile" of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and have excited the
+    taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subsequent connexion,
+    in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second of France. Henry
+    however endeavoured to compensate for his indiscretions by the pomp
+    and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so celebrated of old for the
+    entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been in a perfect blaze of
+    splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana--"qui fut plus magnifique que
+    toutes celles qu'on avoit vu jusqu'alors:" see _Farin's Hist. de la
+    Ville de Rouen_, vol. i. p. 121, where there is a singularly minute
+    and gay account of all the orders and degrees of citizens--(with their
+    gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet hats, rich brocades,
+    and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom the processions were composed.
+    It must have been a perfectly dramatic sight, upon the largest
+    possible scale. It was from respect to the character or the memory of
+    DIANA, that so many plaster-representations of her were erected on the
+    exteriors of buildings: especially of those within small squares or
+    quadrangles. In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old
+    mansions of this kind.
+
+[53] The inscription is this:
+
+      _Si quem sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas,
+      Hic poterit residens, sacris intendere libris_.
+
+    Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossiping chapter [Chap. xxii.]
+    "De la Bibliotheque de la Cathedrale;" p. 163: to which FRANCOIS DE
+    HARLAY, about the year 1630, was one of the most munificent
+    benefactors.
+
+[54] _Christian interment_.]--"Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de
+    compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la
+    justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu'il leur avoit
+    rendus dans la construction de leur eglise, nonobstant sa fin
+    tragique, ne laisserent pas de luy fair l'honneur de l'inhumer dans la
+    chapelle de sainte Agnes, ou sa tombe se voit encore auec cet
+    Epitaphe:
+
+        _Cy gist_ M. ALEXANDRE DE BERNEUAL,
+        _Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie._
+
+[55] Even Dr. Ducarel became warm--on contemplating this porch! "The porch
+    at the south entrance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of
+    the spectator's attention, being highly enriched with architectonic
+    ornaments; particularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the
+    combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from
+    the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing effect." p. 28.
+
+[56] Consult the account given by M. Le Prevost in the "_Precis
+    Analytique des Travaux de l'Academie, &c. de Rouen_," for the year
+    1816, p. 151, &c.
+
+[57] Farin tells us that you could go from the top of the lantern to the
+    cross, or to the summit of the belfry, "outside, without a ladder; so
+    admirable was the workmanship." "Strangers (adds he) took models of it
+    for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they were sold publicly
+    at Rome." _Hist. de la Ville de Rouen_, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154.
+    There are thirteen chapels within this church; of which however the
+    building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the XVIth
+    century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about 155 by
+    82 feet English. Even in Du Four's time the population of this parish
+    was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most
+    regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it--"on
+    va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pavees; et, deux de ces
+    galeries sont decorees de deux autels," &c. p. 150.
+
+    Alas! time--or the revolution--has annihilated all this. Let me
+    however add that M. COTMAN has published a view of the _staircase_ in
+    the church of which I am speaking.
+
+[58] Ordericus Vitalis says, that the dying monarch requested to be
+    conveyed thither, to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town.
+    Rouen is described to be, in _his_ time, "populosa civitas."
+    Consult Duchesne's _Historiae Normannor. Scrip. Antiq._ p.656.
+
+[59] A view of it is published by M. Cotman.
+
+[60] _St. Sever_. This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs,
+    by the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &c. As
+    you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you leave it
+    to the right; but it is not so old as _St. Paul_--where, Farin says,
+    the worship of ADONIS was once performed!
+
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE D'ORLEANS (JEANNE D'ARC.)
+BASSO-RILIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR. PALACE AND COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city of Rouen,
+before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of _Mont St.
+Catherine_. We must visit some relics of antiquity, and take a yet more
+familiar survey of the town, ere we strive
+
+  ... superas evadere ad auras.
+
+Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured in its
+acquisition. The only town in England that can give you any notion of
+Rouen, is CHESTER; although the similitude holds only in some few
+particulars. I must, in the first place then, make especial mention of the
+HALLES DE COMMERCE. The _markets_ here are numerous and abundant, and are
+of all kinds. Cloth, cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat,
+corn, and wine; these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle,
+wood, iron, earthenware, seeds, and implements of agriculture; these for
+the supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each market
+has its appropriate site. For picturesque effect, you must visit the _Vieux
+Marche_, for vegetables and fish; which is kept in an open space, once
+filled by the servants and troops of the old Dukes of Normandy, having the
+ancient ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head whence the minor
+markets are supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrella
+spread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat; and, seen from some
+points of view, the effect of all this, with the ever-restless motion of
+the tongues and feet of the vendors, united to their strange attire, is
+exceedingly singular and interesting.
+
+Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the _Marche Neuf_, where
+fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this season of the year there
+is necessarily little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat pocket
+with eggs for less than half a franc. While on the subject of buying and
+selling, let us go to the _Halles_ of _Rouen_; being large public buildings
+now exclusively appropriated to the sale of cloths, linen, and the varied
+_et-ceteras_ of mercery. These are at once spacious and interesting in a
+high degree. They form the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, where
+the markets just mentioned are held; and were formerly the appurtenances of
+the palaces and chateaux of the old Dukes of Normandy: the _latter_ of
+which are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning,
+to witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England: unless
+it be at a similar scene in _Leeds_. By six o'clock the busy world is in
+motion within these halls. Then commences the incessant and inconceivable
+vociferation of buying and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carried
+on in several large stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars in
+the centre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and twenty
+English feet in length, by fifty-five in width. The centre, in each
+division, contains tables and counters for the display of cloth, cotton,
+stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The display of divers colours--the
+commendations bestowed by the seller, and the reluctant assent of the
+purchaser--the animated eye of the former, and the calculating brow of the
+latter--the removal of one set of wares, and the bringing on of another--in
+short, the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights astonishes the
+gravity of an Englishman; whose astonishment is yet heightened by the
+extraordinary good humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the joke,
+the equivoque, and reply, were worth being recorded in pointed metre;--and
+what metre but that of Crabbe could possibly render it justice? By nine of
+the clock all is hushed. The sale is over: the goods are cleared; and both
+buyers and sellers have quitted the scene.
+
+From _still_, let me conduct you to _active_ life. In other words, let us
+hasten to take a peep at the _Horse and Cattle Market_; which is fixed in
+the very opposite part of the town; that is, towards the northern
+Boulevards. The horses are generally entire: and indeed you have scarcely
+any thing in England which exceeds the _Norman horse_, properly so
+understood. This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength
+of his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained; and a
+Norman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough harness upon
+his back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a cart-horse almost buried
+beneath a profusion of ornament by way of collar; and have beheld a
+farmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and
+striking as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. The
+carts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels,
+which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
+wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while the
+eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. On
+market days, the horses stand pretty close to each other for sale; and are
+led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive very
+dexterously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem to
+have an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, seems to
+demand forethought and deliberation.
+
+Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the _Great Clock--(Rue
+de la Grosse Horloge)_ which runs in a straight line from the western front
+of the Cathedral, at right angles with the _Rue des Carmes_, is probably
+the most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our
+entrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to the upper
+part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost in
+admiration at the singularity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and
+enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on one
+side of this arch; over which is sculptured a motley group of insipid
+figures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock
+merits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, on
+looking at it. It was within this old tower that a bell was formerly
+tolled, at nine o'clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to
+return within the walls of the city.[61]
+
+Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, we
+observed a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called _La Place de
+la Pucelle_: that is, the place where the famous JEANNE D'ARC[62] was
+imprisoned, and afterwards burnt. What sensations possess us as we gaze on
+each surrounding object!--although, now, each surrounding object has
+undergone a palpable change! Ah, my friend--what emotions were _once_
+excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind,
+mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge, and the
+exclamations of pity! But life now goes on just the same as if nothing of
+the kind had happened here. The past is forgotten. This hapless Joan of Arc
+is one of the many, who, having been tortured as heretics, have been
+afterwards reverenced as martyrs. Her statue was, not very long after her
+execution, almost _adored_ upon that very spot where her body had been
+consigned with execrations to the flames. The square, in which this statue
+stands, contains probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen--and as
+interesting as it is ancient. It is invisible from without: but you open a
+wooden gate, and quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, having
+three of its sides covered with basso-rilievo figures in plaster. That side
+which faces you is evidently older than the left: indeed I have no
+hesitation in assigning it to the end of the XVth century. The clustered
+ornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the exterior
+is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures,
+chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of the
+same period. The taste which prevails in them is half French and half
+Flemish. Not so is the character of the plaster figures which cover the
+_left_ side on entering. These, my friend, are no less than the
+representation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the
+famous CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has published
+engravings. Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the
+copy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be most
+egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it to be
+worth all the "huge clocks" in Rouen put together. I hardly know how to
+take you from this interesting spot--from this exhibition of beautiful old
+art--especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied the
+mansion, and held a Council here, with both English and French; that his
+bugles once sounded from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets once
+sparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust
+that the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relic
+to perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful representation
+of it.[64]
+
+While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossing
+the _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_, contrive to place you in the centre of the
+square which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider
+this building as the principal _lion_ in their city. It has indeed claims
+to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic
+in Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the entreaty
+of the provincial States, through the interest of the famous Cardinal
+d'Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks the
+restoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of
+architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth,
+this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many
+respects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure
+Grecian--but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are
+running up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the
+Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing,
+taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. The
+external ornaments are frequently heavy, from their size and elaborate
+execution; and they seem to be _stuck on_ to the main building without
+rhyme or reason.
+
+The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisoners
+are confined in the lower part of the building to the left: above which you
+mount by a flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularly
+curious hall,[65] about one hundred and seventy-five English feet in
+length--roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a
+most curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This is justly shewn
+and commented upon to the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building are
+devoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost
+every description. The first Presidents of the Parliament lived formerly in
+the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken a
+very different turn. Upon the whole, this _Town Hall_, or call it what you
+will, is rather a magnificent structure; and certainly superior to most
+provincial buildings of the kind which we possess in England. I should tell
+you that the courts for commercial causes are situated near the quays, at
+the south part of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither,
+(and who possesses the choicest library[66] of antiquarian books, of all
+descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see)
+carried me to the _Hall of Commerce_, which, among other apartments,
+contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with
+_fleurs de lys_ upon a light blue ground. It is now however much in need of
+reparation. Fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary to
+harmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it, in which is
+represented the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies
+of the town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well painted
+after the originals, and appear to be strong resemblances. On enquiring how
+many of them were now living, I was told that--ALL WERE DEAD! The fate of
+the _principal_ figure is but too well known. They should have this
+interesting subject--interesting undoubtedly to the inhabitants--executed
+by one of their best engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quite
+in the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I
+have yet seen in painting or in engraving.
+
+It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal for the
+determination of commercial causes, there sits a very respectable Bench of
+Judges: among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the figure, air, and
+countenance, of an Englishman. On enquiry of my guide, I found my
+supposition verified. He _was_ an Englishman; but had been thirty years a
+resident in _Rouen_. The judicial costume is appropriate in every respect;
+but I could not help smiling, the other morning, upon meeting my friend the
+judge, standing before the door of his house, in the open street--with a
+hairy cap on--leisurely smoking his pipe--And wherein consisted the harm of
+such a _delassement_?
+
+
+[61] [I apprehend this custom to be prevalent in fortified towns:--as
+    Rouen _formerly_ was--and as I found such custom to obtain at the
+    present day, at Strasbourg. Mons. Licquet says that the allusion to
+    the curfew--or _couvre-feu_--as appears in the previous
+    edition--and which the reader well knows was established by the
+    Conqueror with us--was no particular badge of the slavery of the
+    English. It had been _previously_ established by William in NORMANDY.
+    Millot is referred to as the authority.]
+
+[62] _the famous_ JEANNE D'ARC.] Goube, in the second volume of his
+    _Histoire du Duche de Normandie_, has devoted several spiritedly
+    written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this
+    heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the English--from
+    earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had been completely
+    prejudged; for that, previously to the sentence being passed, they
+    began to erect "a scaffold of plaster, so raised, that the flames
+    could not at first reach her--and she was in consequence consumed by a
+    slow fire: her tortures being long and horrible." Hume has been rather
+    too brief: but he judiciously observes that the conduct of the Duke of
+    Bedford "was equally barbarous and dishonourable." Indeed it were
+    difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest
+    abhorrence--the imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of
+    Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford?
+
+    The _identical_ spot on which she suffered is not now visible,
+    according to Millin; that place having been occupied by the late
+    _Marche des Veaux_. It was however not half a stone's throw from the
+    site of the present statue. In the _Antiquites Nationales_ of the last
+    mentioned author (vol. iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates
+    connected with the History of JOAN of ARC. The _first_ plate
+    represents the _Porte Bouvreuil_ to the left, and the circular old
+    tower to the right--in which latter Joan was confined, with some
+    houses before it; the middle ground is a complete representation of
+    the rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen
+    are yet surrounded; and French taste has enlivened the foreground with
+    a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling
+    themselves with a flagon of wine. The old circular tower ("qui vit
+    gemir cette infortunee," says Millin) exists no longer. The second
+    plate represents the fountain which was built in the market-place upon
+    the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which spot was at first
+    designated by the erection of a cross. From the style of the
+    embellishments it appears to have been of the time of Francis I.
+
+    Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or demolished
+    in 1755; upon the site of which was built the present tasteless
+    production--resembling, as the author of the _Itineraire de Rouen_ (p.
+    69) well observes, "rather a Pallas than the heroine of Orleans." The
+    name of the author was STODTS. Millin's _third_ plate--of this present
+    existing fountain, is desirable; in as much as it shews the front of
+    the house, in the interior of which are the basso-rilievos of the
+    _Champ de drap d'Or_: for an account of which see afterwards.
+
+    Millin allows that all PORTRAITS of her--whether in sculpture, or
+    painting, or engraving--are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in
+    point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass window
+    of the church of the _Minimes_ at Chaillot: although the building was
+    not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a
+    copy of some coeval production. In regard to oil paintings, I take it
+    that the portrait of JUDITH, with a sword in one hand, and the head of
+    Holofernes in the other, has been usually copied (with the omission of
+    the latter accompaniment) as that of JEANNE D'ARC. I hardly know a
+    more interesting collection of books than that which may be acquired
+    respecting the fate of this equally brave and unfortunate heroine.
+
+[63] Far be it from me to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon. But those
+    who have not the means of getting at that learned antiquarian's
+    _Monarchie Francoise_ may possibly have an opportunity of examining
+    precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded
+    to, in _Ducarel's Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, Plate XII. Till the year
+    1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was supposed to represent
+    the _Council of Trent_; but the Abbe Noel, happening to find a
+    salamander marked upon the back of one of the figures, supposed, with
+    greater truth, that it was a representation of the abovementioned
+    procession; and accordingly sent Montfaucon an account of the whole.
+    The Abbe might have found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if
+    he had looked closely into this extraordinary exterior; and possibly,
+    in his time, the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of
+    the human features, might not have sustained the injuries which time
+    and accident now seem to have inflicted on them. [A beautiful effort
+    in the graphic way representing the entire interior front of this
+    interesting mansion, is said to be published at Rouen.]
+
+[64] In the previous edition of this work, there appeared a facsimile of a
+    small portion of this bas-relief, representing--as I imagine--the
+    setting out of Francis to meet Henry. Nothing, as far as correctness
+    of detail goes, can give a more faithful resemblance of the PRECISE
+    STATE in which the original appears: the defaced and the entire parts
+    being represented with equal fidelity. Mons. Langlois has given a
+    plate of the entire facade or front--in outline--with great ability;
+    but so small as to give little or no notion of the character of the
+    original.
+
+[65] In Ducarel's time, "the ground story consisted of a great quadrangle
+    surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone staircase
+    led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as well as
+    external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, Westminster Hall.
+    Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of the long robe, in
+    their gowns and bands, walking up and down with briefs in their hands,
+    and making a great show of business." _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_,
+    p. 32. [According to Mons. Licquet, this "singularly curious hall" was
+    begun to be built in 1493. It was afterwards, and is still called,
+    _la Salle des Procureurs_.]
+
+[66] _the choicest library_] Monsieur Riaux, Archiviste de la Chambre
+    de Commerce. This amiable man unites a love of literature with that of
+    architectural antiquities. The library of M. Le Prevost is however as
+    copious as that of Mons. R.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE ROBEC ET
+D'AUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES--GENERAL ET D'HUMANITE.
+
+
+Still tarrying within this old fashioned place? I have indeed yet much to
+impart before I quit it, and which I have no scruple in avowing will be
+well deserving of your attention.
+
+Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the famous
+chemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (_Rue Beauvoisine_) and the yet more
+wonderful spectacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sawing wood of all
+descriptions, into small or large planks, by means of water works--I must
+take you along THE QUAYS for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by an
+architectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the original
+plan, would present us with one of the noblest structures in Europe. This
+stone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. but many and prosperous
+must be the years of art, of commerce, and of peace, before money
+sufficient can be raised for the successful completion of the pile. The
+quays are long, broad, and full of bustle of every description; while in
+some of the contiguous squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth,
+and linen, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of this
+varied and animated scene, walks a well-known character, in his large
+cocked hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemonade or
+coffee, surmounted by a bell--which "ever and anon" is sounded for the sake
+of attracting customers. He is here copied to the life.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid Seine, and
+its _Bridge of Boats_, you cannot help glancing now and then down the
+narrow old-fashioned streets, which run at right angles with the
+quays--with the innumerable small tile-fashioned pieces of wood, like
+scales, upon the roofs--which seem as if they would be demolished by every
+blast. The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together with the bold
+and overwhelming projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford a
+striking contrast to the animated scene upon the quays:--where the sun
+shines with full freedom, as it were; and where the glittering streamers,
+at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and prosperity of the town. If
+the day happen to be fine, you may devote half a morning in contemplating,
+and mingling with, so interesting a scene.
+
+We have had frequent thunder-storms of late; and the other Sunday evening,
+happening to be sauntering at a considerable height above the north-west
+Boulevards, towards the _Faubourg Cauchoise_, I gained a summit, upon the
+edge of a gravel pit, whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitously
+upon the town below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over the
+whole city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it, shining
+like a broad silver chord: while the barren, ascending plains, through
+which the road to Caen passes, were gradually becoming dusk with the
+overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which seemed to be rushing down
+in one immense torrent. The tops of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St.
+Ouen were almost veiled in darkness, by the passing storm; but the lower
+part of the tower, and the whole of the nave of each building, were in one
+stream of golden light--from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In
+ten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober, uniform
+tint of evening; but I can never forget the rich bed of purple and pink,
+fringed with burnished gold, in which the sun of that evening set! I
+descended--absorbed in the recollection of the lovely objects which I had
+just contemplated--and regaled by the sounds of a thousand little gurgling
+streamlets, created by the passing tempest, and hastening to precipitate
+themselves into the Seine.
+
+Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on in Rouen
+with the greatest success, those connected with the _cotton manufactories_
+cannot fail to claim your attention; and I fancied I saw, in some of the
+shop-windows, shawls and gowns which might presume to vie with our
+Manchester and Norwich productions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French
+were extremely partial to British manufactures: and cotton stockings,
+coloured muslins, and what are called ginghams, are coveted by them with
+the same fondness as we prize their cambric and their lace. Their best
+articles in watches, clocks, silver ornaments, and trinkets, are obtained
+from Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois the
+justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare with their
+_escrutoires_ and other articles of furniture made of the walnut tree.
+These upright escrutoires, or writing desks, are in almost every bed-room
+of the more respectable hotels: but of course their polish is gone when
+they become stationary furniture in an inn--for the art of rubbing, or what
+is called _elbow-grease_ with us--is almost unknown on either side of the
+Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine specimen of a side board, or an
+escrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by one of their best
+cabinet-makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and tone of colour are
+equally gratifying; and resemble somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer
+aspect. The _or-molu_ ornaments are tastefully put on; but the general
+shape, or contour, of the several pieces of furniture, struck me as being
+in bad taste.
+
+He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene, connected
+with _trade_, should walk leisurely down the RUE DE ROBEC. It is surely the
+oddest, and as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable: But who
+that has a rational curiosity could resist such a walk? Here live the
+_dyers of clothes_--and in the middle of the street rushes the precipitous
+stream, called _L'Eau de Robec_[67]--receiving colours of all hues. To-day
+it is nearly jet black: to-morrow it is bright scarlet: a third day it is
+blue, and a fourth day it is yellow! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by
+little bridges, communicating with the manufactories, or with that side of
+the street where the work-people live: and the whole has a dismal and
+disagreeable aspect--especially in dirty weather: but if you go to one end
+of it (I think to the east--as it runs east and west) and look down upon
+the descending street, with the overhanging upper stories and roofs--the
+foreshortened, numerous bridges--the differently-coloured dyed clothes,
+suspended from the windows, or from poles--the constant motion of men,
+women, and children, running across the bridges--with the rapid, _camelion_
+stream beneath--you cannot fail to acknowledge that this is one of the most
+singular, grotesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working city of
+Rouen. I ought to tell you that the first famous Cardinal d'Amboise (of
+whom the preceding pages have made such frequent honourable mention) caused
+the _Eau de Robec_ to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from its
+original channel or source in a little valley near _St. Martin du Vivien_.
+Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of these "teinturiers" in the
+Rue de Robec--but they have of late sought more capacious premises in the
+fauxbourgs _de St. Hilaire_ and _de Martainville_. The neighbouring
+sister-stream, _l'Eau d'Aubette_, is destined to the same purposes as that
+of which I have been just discoursing; but I do not at this moment
+recollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a few
+corn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thundering
+noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church of
+St. Maclou, will not be easily forgotten. Thus you see of what various,
+strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise,
+life and activity, in the midst of an atmosphere unsullied by the fumes of
+sea coal:--hilarity and apparent contentment:--the spruce bourgeoise and
+the slattern fille de chambre:--attired in vestments of deep crimson and
+dark blue--every thing flits before you as if touched by magic, and as if
+sorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants.
+
+"Paullo majora canamus." In other words, let us leave the Town for the
+Country. Let us hurry through a few more narrow and crowded alleys, courts,
+and streets--and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to
+enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the MONT STE.
+CATHARINE.... Indeed, my friend, I sincerely wish that you could have
+accompanied me to the summit of this enchanting eminence: but as you are
+far away, you must be content with a brief description of our little
+expedition thither.[68] The Mont Ste. Catharine, which is entirely chalk,
+is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen;
+or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which the
+city is to be viewed to the greatest possible advantage. It lies to the
+left of the Seine, in your way from the town; and the ascent begins
+considerably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the route to Paris. We
+took an excellent _fiacre_ to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that
+our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities
+immediately above; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon
+commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was not much
+labour or much difficulty: so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on each
+little eminence, our admiration seemed to encrease--till, gaining the
+highest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediately
+above the town and the whole of its environs....
+
+    "Heavens, what a goodly prospect spread around!"
+
+The prospect was indeed "goodly--" being varied, extensive, fertile, and
+luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively backward spring. The city was the
+main object, not only of attraction, but of astonishment. Although the
+point from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with
+the summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as
+it were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw each
+church, each public edifice, and almost each street; nay, we began to think
+we could discover almost every individual stirring in them. The soldiers,
+exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two
+stones' throw from us; while the sounds of their music reached us in the
+most distinct and gratifying manner. No "Diable boiteux" could ever have
+transported a "Don Cleophas Leandro Perez Zambullo" to a more favourable
+situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a city; and if the houses
+had been unroofed, we could have almost discerned whether the _escrutoires_
+were made of mahogany or walnut-wood! This wonder-working effect proceeds
+from the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence of
+sea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue--the generality of the roofs were
+also composed of blue slate: this, added to the incipient verdure of the
+boulevards, and the darker hues of the trunks of the trees, upon the
+surrounding hills--the lengthening forests to the left, and the numerous
+white "maisons de plaisance"[69] to the right--while the Seine, with its
+hundred vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you--with
+its cultivated little islands--and the sweeping meadows or race-ground[70]
+on the other side--all, or indeed any, of these objects could not fail to
+excite our warmest admiration, and to make us instinctively exclaim "that
+such a panorama was perfectly unrivalled!"
+
+We descended Mont Ste. Catharine on the side facing the _Hospice General_:
+a building of a very handsome form, and considerable dimensions. It is a
+noble establishment for foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes.
+I was told that not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings were
+sheltered in this asylum; a number, which equally astonished and delighted
+me. The descent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing; being
+composed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of trees and
+shrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred yards from the
+hospital. The architecture of this extensive building is more mixed than
+that of its neighbour the _Hospice d'Humanite_, on account of the different
+times in which portions of it were added: but, upon the whole, you are
+rather struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence of
+style. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good breeding of
+its motley inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly, with their arms behind
+them, between rows of trees:--others were tranquilly sitting upon benches:
+a third group would be in motion within the squares of the building: a
+fourth appeared in deep consultation whether the _potage_ of to day were
+not inferior to that of the preceding day?--"Que cherchez vous, Monsieur?"
+said a fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off, his cocked hat;
+"I wish to see the Abbe Turquier,"--rejoined I. "Ah, il vient de
+sortir--par ici, Monsieur." "Thank you." "Monsieur je vous souhaite le bon
+jour--au plaisir de vous revoir!" And thus I paced through the squares of
+this vast building. The "Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie would
+have seized with avidity, and copied with inimitable spirit and fidelity.
+
+
+[67] Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being
+    "aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleuee, violee & autres
+    couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus, la
+    diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures." _Antiquitez
+    de Caen_, p. 36.
+
+[68] _expedition thither_.]--When John Evelyn visited this
+    neighbourhood, in 1644, "the country so abounded with _wolves_, that a
+    shepherd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was
+    strangled by one of them the day before--and that, in the midst of the
+    flock! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and
+    apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with
+    quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance." _Memoirs of
+    the Life and Writings of John Evelyn_, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1818. My
+    friend Mr. J. H. Markland visited Mont St. Catharine the year after
+    the visit above described. He was of course enchanted with the view;
+    and told me, that a friend whom he met there, and who had travelled
+    pretty much in Italy, assured him there was nothing like it on the
+    banks of either the _Arno_ or the _Po_. In short, it is quite peculiar
+    to itself--and cannot be surpassed.
+
+[69] It is thus prettily observed in the little _Itineraire de Rouen_
+    --"Ces agreables maisons de plaisance appartiennent a des habitants de
+    Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison, se delasser des
+    embarras de la ville et des fatigues du commerce." p. 153.
+
+[70] _race-ground_]--When the English cavalry were quartered here in
+    1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each
+    other. These races were gaily attended by the inhabitants; and I
+    heard, from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations bestowed
+    upon the fleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOK
+COLLECTORS.
+
+
+Now for a little gossip and chit-chat about _Paper, Ink, Books,
+Printing-Offices_, and curiosities of a GRAPHIC description. Perhaps the
+most regular method would be to speak of a few of the principal _Presses_,
+before we take the _productions_ of these presses into consideration. And
+first, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen.[71] The art of printing is
+supposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of the name of MAUFER,
+between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen _Missals_
+and _Breviaries_, especially of those by MORIN, who was the second printer
+in this city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, and
+rather striking, is here enclosed for your gratification.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Few provincial towns have been more fertile in typographical productions;
+and the reputation of TALLEUR, GUALTIER, and VALENTIN, gave great
+respectability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of the sixteenth
+century.
+
+Yet I am not able to ascertain whether these presses were very fruitful in
+Romances, Chronicles, and Old Poetry. I rather think, however, that they
+were not deficient in this popular class of literature, if I am to judge
+from the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of the
+curious. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could never repress the
+natural love of the French, from time immemorial, for light and fanciful
+reading.
+
+You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old courts,
+by-lanes, and unfrequented corners--in search of what is curious, or
+precious, or rare in the book way. But ere we touch that enchanting chord,
+let us proceed according to the plan laid down. First therefore for
+printing-offices. Of these, the names of PERIAUX, (_Imprimeur de
+l'Academie_,) BAUDRY, (_Imprimeur du Roi_) MEGARD, (_Rue Martainville_) and
+LECRENE-LABBEY, (_Imprimeur-Libraire et Marchand de Papiers_) are masters
+of the principal presses; but such is the influence of Paris, or of
+metropolitan fashions, that a publisher will sometimes prefer getting his
+work printed at the capital.[72] Of the foregoing printers, it behoves me
+to make some mention; and yet I can speak personally but of two: Messieurs
+Periaux and Megard. M. Periaux is printer to the _Academie des Sciences,
+Belles-Lettres et Arts de Rouen_, of which academy, indeed, he is himself
+an accomplished member. He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and obliging
+to the last degree; and may be considered the _Henry Stephen_ of the Rouen
+Printers. He urged me to call often: but I could visit him only twice. Each
+time I found him in his counting house, with his cap on--shading his eyes:
+a pen in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoiced
+at seeing me, I could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, he
+wished me to "say my saying quickly,"[73] and to leave him to his _deles_
+and _stets_! He has a great run of business, and lives in one of those
+strange, old-fashioned houses, in the form of a square, with an outside
+spiral staircase, so common in this extraordinary city. He introduced me to
+his son, an intelligent young man--well qualified to take the labouring
+oar, either upon the temporary or permanent retirement of his parent.[74]
+
+Of Monsieur MEGARD, who may be called the ancient _Jenson_, or the modern
+_Bulmer_, of Rouen, I can speak only in terms of praise--both as a civil
+gentleman and as a successful printer. He is doubtless the most elegant
+printer in this city; and being also a publisher, his business is very
+considerable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among the
+neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the fruits of
+his enterprise and industry. On my first visit, M. Megard was from home;
+but Madame, "son epouse, l'attendoit a chaque moment!" There is a
+particular class of women among the French, which may be said to be
+singularly distinguished for their intelligence, civility, and good
+breeding. I mean the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus I found
+it, in addition to a hundred similar previous instances, with Madame
+Megard. "Mais Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?" "I
+wish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am an enthusiastic
+lover of the art of printing. I search every where for skilful printers,
+and thus it is that I come to pay my respects to Monsieur Megard." We both
+sat down and conversed together; and I found in Madame Megard a
+communicative, and well-instructed, representative of the said ancient
+Jenson, or modern Bulmer. "Enfin, voila mon mari qui arrive"--said Madame,
+turning round, upon the opening of the door:--when I looked forward, and
+observed a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a countenance
+perfectly English--but accoutred in the dress of the _national guard_, with
+a grenadier cap on his head. Madame saw my embarrassment: laughed: and in
+two minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit. He began by
+expressing his dislike of the military garb: but admitted the absolute
+necessity of adopting such a measure as that of embodying a national guard.
+"Soyez le bien venu; Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible, Monsieur, de
+l'honneur que vous me faites--vu que vous etes antiquaire typographique, et
+que vous avez publie des ouvrages relatifs a notre art. Mais ce n'est pas
+ici qu'il faut en chercher de belles epreuves. C'est a Paris."
+
+I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well acquainted with
+the fine productions of _Didot_, and had also seen the less aspiring ones
+of himself; of which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen might be
+proud. This I spoke with the utmost sincerity. My first visit concluded
+with two elegant little book-presents, on the part of M. Megard--one being
+_Heures de Rouen, a l'usage du Diocese_, 1814, 12mo. and the other
+_Etrennes nouvelles commodes et utiles_; 1815, 12mo.--the former bound in
+green morocco; and the latter in calf, with gilt leaves, but printed on a
+sort of apricot-tinted paper--producing no unpleasing effect. Both are
+exceedingly well executed. My visits to M. Megard were rather frequent. He
+has a son at the College Royale, or Lycee, whither I accompanied him, one
+Sunday morning, and took the church of that establishment in the way. It is
+built entirely in the Italian style of architecture: is exceedingly
+spacious: has a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I saw
+in it, although by no means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that it
+is in churches of _Roman_, and not of _Gothic_ architecture, that paintings
+produce the most harmonious effect. This college and church form a noble
+establishment, situated in one of the most commanding eminences of the
+town. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbey
+of St. Ouen, with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hills
+and woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriously
+picturesque manner.
+
+But the printer who does the most business--or rather whose business lies
+in the lower department of the art, in bringing forth what are called _chap
+books_--is LECRENE-LABBEY--_imprimeur-libraire et marchand de papiers_. The
+very title imports a sort of _Dan Newberry's_ repository. I believe however
+that Lecrene-Labbey's business is much diminished. He once lived in the
+_Rue de la Grosse-Horloge_, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in one
+of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the premises he
+now occupies were once an old church or monastery, and that a thousand
+fluttering sheets are now suspended, where formerly was seen the solemn
+procession of silken banners, with religious emblems, emblazoned in colours
+of all hues. I called at the old shop, and supplied myself with a dingy
+copy of the _Catalogue de la Bibliotheque Bleue_--from which catalogue
+however I could purchase but little; as the greater part of the old books,
+several of the _Caxtonian stamp_, had taken their departures. It was from
+this Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the works destined
+for common reading; and from hence inferred, what I stated to you a little
+time ago, that _Romances, Rondelays_, and chivalrous stories, are yet read
+with pleasure by the good people of France. It is, in short, from this
+lower, or _lowest_ species of literature--if it must be so designated--that
+we gather the real genius, or mental character of the ordinary classes of
+society. I do assure you that some of these _chap_ publications are
+singularly droll and curious. Even the very rudiments of learning, or the
+mere alphabet-book, meets the eye in a very imposing manner--as in the
+following facsimile.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Love, Marriage_, and _Confession_, are fertile themes in these little
+farthing chap books. Yonder sits a fille de chambre, after her work is
+done. She is intent upon some little manual, taken from the _Bibliotheque
+Bleue_. Approach her, and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, and
+readily shews you _Catechisme a l'usage des Grandes Filles pour etre
+Mariees; ensemble la maniere d'attirer les Amans_. At the first glance of
+it, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to end, a wild and
+probably somewhat indecorous manual of instruction. By no means; for read
+the _Litanies_ and _Prayer_ with which it concludes, and which I here send;
+admitting that they exhibit a strange mixture of the simple and the
+serious.
+
+    LITANIES.
+
+    _Pour toutes les Filles qui desirent entrer en menage_.
+
+    _Kyrie,_ je voudrois,
+    _Christe_, etre mariee.
+    _Kyrie_, je prie tous les Saints,
+    _Christe_, que ce soin demain.
+    _Sainte Marie_, tout le Monde se marie.
+    _Saint Joseph_, que vous ai-je fait?
+    _Saint Nicolas_, ne m'oubliez pas.
+    _Saint Mederie_, que j'aie un bon mari.
+    _Saint Matthieu_, qu'il craigne Dieu.
+    _Saint Jean_, qu'il m'aime tendrement.
+    _Saint Bruno_, qu'il soit juli & beau.
+    _Saint Francois_, qu'il me soit fidele.
+    _Saint Andre_, qu'il soit a mon gre.
+    _Saint Didier_, qu'il aime a travailler.
+    _Saint Honore_, qu'il n'aime pas a jouer.
+    _Saint Severin_, qu'il n'aime pas le vin.
+    _Saint Clement_, qu'il soit diligent.
+    _Saint Sauveur_, qu'il ait bon coeur.
+    _Saint Nicaise_, que je sois a mon aise.
+    _Saint Josse_, qu'il me donne un carrosse.
+    _Saint Boniface_, que mon mariage se fasse,
+    _Saint Augustin_, des demain matin.
+
+    ORAISON.
+
+    Seigneur, qui avez forme Adam de la terre, et qui lui avez
+    donne Eve pour sa compagne; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un
+    bon mari pour compagnon, non pour la volupte, mais pour vous
+    honorer & avoir des enfants qui vous benissent. Ainsi soit il.
+
+Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a singularly
+amusing little manual called "_La Confession de la Bonne Femme_." It is
+really not divested of merit. Whether however it may not have been written
+during the Revolution, with a view to ridicule the practice of auricular
+confession which yet obtains throughout France, I cannot take upon me to
+pronounce; but there are undoubtedly some portions of it which seem so
+obviously to satirise this practice, that one can hardly help drawing a
+conclusion in the affirmative. On the other hand it may perhaps be
+inferred, with greater probability, that it is intended to shew with what
+extreme facility a system of _self-deception_ may be maintained.[75]
+Referring however to the little manual in question, among the various
+choice morceaus which it contains, take the following extracts:
+exemplificatory of a woman's _evading the main points of confession_.
+
+    _Confesseur_. Ne voulez vous pas me repondre; en un mot, combien
+    y a-t-il de temps que vous ne vous etes confessee?
+
+    _La Penitente._ Il y a un mois tout juste, car c'etoit le
+    quatrieme jour du mois passe, & nous sommes au cinquieme du mois
+    courant; or comptez, mon pere, & vous trouverez justement que ...
+
+    C. C'est assez, ne parlez point tant, & dites moi en peu de mots vos
+    peches.
+
+    _Elle raconte les peches d'autrui._
+
+    _La Penitente_. J'ai un enfant qui est le plus mechant garcon que
+    vous ayez jamais vu: il jure, bat sa soeur, il fuit l'ecole, derobe
+    tout ce qu'il peut pour jouer; il suit de mechans fripons: l'autre
+    jour en courant il perdit son chapeau. Enfin, c'est un mechant garcon,
+    je veux vous l'amener afin que vous me l'endoctriniez un peu s'il vous
+    plait.
+
+    C. Dites-moi vos peches.
+
+    P. Mais, mon pere, j'ai une fille qui est encore pire. Je ne la peux
+    faire lever le matin: Je l'appelle cent fois: _Marguerite: plait-il ma
+    Mere? leve-toi promptement et descends: j'y vais_. Elle ne bouge pas.
+    _Si tu ne viens maintenant, tu seras battue._ Elle s'en moque. Quand
+    je l'envoie a la Ville, je lui dis _reviens promptement, ne t'amuse
+    pas_. Cependant, elle s'arrete a toutes les portes comme l'ane d'un
+    meunier, elle babille avec tous ceux qu'elle rencontre; & quand elle
+    me fait cela, je la bats: ne fais-je pas bien, mon pere?
+
+    C. Dites-moi _vos_ peches et non pas ceux de _vos enfans_.
+
+    P. Il se trouve, mon pere, que nous avons dans notre rue une voisine
+    qui est la plus mechante de toutes les femmes: elle jure, elle
+    querelle tous ceux qui passent, personne ne la peut souffrir, ni son
+    mari, ni ses enfans, & bien souvent elle s'enivre, & vous me dites,
+    mon pere, quelle est celle-la? c'est ...
+
+    C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer; car a la confession il ne faut
+    jamais fair connoitre les personnes dont vous declarez les peches.
+
+    P. C'est elle qui vient se confesser apres moi: grondez-la bien, car
+    vous ne lui en sauriez trop dire.
+
+    C. Taisez-vous donc, & ne parlez que de _vos_ peches, non pas de ceux
+    _des autres_.
+
+    _Elle s'accuse de ce qui n'est point peche._
+
+    _Penitente_.--Ah! mon pere, j'ai fait un grand peche, ah! le
+    grand peche! Helas je serai damnee, quoique mon confesseur m'ait
+    defendu de le dire j'amais, neanmoins mon pere je vais vous le
+    declarer.
+
+    C. Ne le dites point, puisque votre confesseur vous l'a defendu, je ne
+    veux point l'entendre.
+
+    P. Ah! n'importe; je veux vous le dire, c'est un trop grand peche:
+    J'ai battu ma mere.
+
+    C. Vous avez battu votre mere! Ah! miserable, c'est un cas reserve &
+    un crime qui merite la potence. Et quand l'avez-vous battue?
+
+    P. Quand j'etois petite de l'age de quatre ans.
+
+    C. Ah! simple, ne savez-vous pas que tout ce que les enfans font avant
+    l'age de raison, qui est environ l'age de sept ans, ne sauroit etre un
+    peche.
+
+There is however one thing, which I must frankly declare to you as entitled
+to distinct notice and especial commendation. It is, the method of teaching
+"catechisms" of a different and higher order: I mean the CHURCH CATECHISMS.
+Both the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels.
+Within these side chapels are collected, on stated days of the week, the
+young of both sexes. They are arranged in a circle. A priest, in his white
+robes, is seated, or stands, in the centre of them. He examines, questions,
+corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls for it. His manner is
+winning and persuasive. His action is admirable. The lads shew him great
+respect, and are rarely rude, or seen to laugh. Those who answer well, and
+pay the greater attention, receive, with words of commendation, gentle pats
+upon the head--and I could not but consider the blush, with which this mark
+of favour was usually received, as so many presages of future excellence in
+the youth. I once witnessed a most determined catechetical lecture of
+girls; who might be called, in the language of their matrimonial catechism,
+"de grandes filles." It was on an evening, in the Chapel of Our Lady in St.
+Ouen's Abbey, that this examination took place. Two elderly priests
+attended. The responses of the females were as quick as they were correct;
+the eye being always invariably fixed on the pavement, accompanied with a
+gravity and even piety of expression. A large group of mothers, with
+numerous spectators, were in attendance. A question was put, to which a
+supposed incorrect response was given. It was repeated, and the same answer
+followed. The priest hesitated: something like vexation was kindling in his
+cheek, while the utmost calmness and confidence seemed to mark the
+countenance of the examinant. The attendant mothers were struck with
+surprise. A silence for one minute ensued. The question related to the
+"Holy Spirit." The priest gently approached the girl, and softly
+articulated--"Mais, ma chere considerez un peu,"--and repeated the
+question. "Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil) j'ai bien
+consideree, et je crois que c'est comme je vous l'ai deja dit." The Priest
+crossed his hands upon his breast ... brought down his eyebrows in a
+thoughtful mood ... and turning quickly round to the girl, addressed her in
+the most affectionate tone of voice--"Ma petite,--tu as bien dit; et
+j'avois tort." The conduct of the girl was admirable: She curtsied,
+blushed... and with eyes, from which tears seemed ready to start, surveyed
+the circle of spectators ... caught the approving glance of her mother, and
+sunk triumphantly upon her chair--with the united admiration of teachers,
+companions, parents and spectators! The whole was conducted with the most
+perfect propriety; and the pastors did not withdraw till they were fairly
+exhausted. A love of truth obliges me to confess that this reciprocity of
+zeal, on the part of master and pupil, is equally creditable to both
+parties; and especially serviceable to the cause of religion and morality.
+
+Let me here make honourable mention of the kind offices of _Monsieur
+Longchamp_, who volunteered his friendly services in walking over half the
+town with me, to shew me what he justly considered as the most worthy of
+observation. It is impossible for a generous mind to refuse its testimony
+to the ever prompt kindness of a well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you all
+the services in his power. Enquire the way,--and you have not only a finger
+quickly pointing to it, but the owner of the finger must also put himself
+in motion to accompany you a short distance upon the route, and that too
+uncovered! "Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre chapeau ... je vous en prie ...
+mille pardons." "Monsieur ne dites pas un seul mot ... pour mon chapeau,
+qu'il reste a son aise."
+
+Among book-collectors, Antiquaries, and Men of Taste, let me speak with
+becoming praise of the amiable and accomplished M. AUGUSTE LE PREVOST--who
+is considered, by competent judges, to be the best antiquary in Rouen.[76]
+Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in our own country, synonymous with all that is
+liberal and enlightened in matters of virtu) was so obliging as to give me
+a letter of introduction to him; and he shewed me several rare and splendid
+works, which were deserving of the commendations that they received from
+their owner.
+
+M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains of Roman masonry at Rouen;
+but he will not be displeased to see that the only existing relics of the
+castle or town walls, have been copied by the pencil of a late travelling
+friend. What you here behold is probably of the fourteenth century.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The next book-collector in commendation of whom I am bound to speak, is
+MONSIEUR DUPUTEL; a member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of the _Academy of
+Belles-Lettres_ at Rouen. The Abbe Turquier conducted me thither; and I
+found, in the owner of a choice collection of books, a well-bred gentleman,
+and a most hearty bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small library; but,
+withal, some very curious, scarce, and interesting volumes. M. Duputel is
+smitten with that amiable passion,--the love of printing for _private
+distribution_--thus meriting to become a sort of Roxburghe Associate. He
+was so good as to beg my acceptance of the "nouvelle edition" of his
+"_Bagatelles Poetiques,"_ printed in an octavo volume of about 112 pages,
+at Rouen, in 1816. On taking it home, I discovered the following not
+infelicitous version of our Prior's beautiful little Poem of _the Garland_.
+
+  _La Guirlande_.
+
+  _Traduction de l'Anglais de Prior_.
+
+  Pour orner de Chloe les cheveux ondoyans,
+    Parmi les fleurs nouvellement ecloses
+    J'avais choisi les lis les plus brillans,
+  Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraiches roses.
+
+  Ma Chloe sur son front les placa la matin:
+      Alors on vit ceder sans peine,
+    Leur vif eclat a celui de son teint,
+    Leur doux parfum a ceux de son haleine.
+
+  De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient s'embellir,
+  Et sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les bergeres
+  Les voyaient se faner avec plus de plaisir
+  Qu'ils ne les voyaient naitre au milieu des parterres.
+
+    Mais, le soir, quand leur sein fletri
+  Eut cesse d'exhaler son odeur seduisante,
+    Elle fixa, d'un regard attendri,
+  Cette guirlande, helas! n'agueres si brillante.
+
+  Des larmes aussi-tot coulent de ses beaux yeux.
+    Que d'eloquence dans ces larmes!
+  Jamais pour l'exprimer, le langage des dieux,
+  Tout sublime qu'il est, n'aurait assez de charmes.
+
+  En feignant d'ignorer ce tendre sentiment;
+    "Pourquoi," lui dis-je, "o ma sensible amie,
+  Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement
+  Abandonner ton ame a la melancholie?"
+
+  "Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent tristement?"
+  Me dit, en soupirant, ce moraliste aimable,
+    "De leur fraicheur, en un moment,
+  S'est eclipse le charme peu durable.
+
+    Tel est, helas! notre destin;
+  Fleur de beaute ressemble a celles des prairies;
+  On les voit toutes deux naitre avec le matin,
+    Et des le soir etre fletries.
+
+  Estelle hier encor brillait dans nos hameaux,
+  Et l'amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces;
+  De la mort, aujourd'hui, I'impitoyable faulx
+    A moissonne sa jeunesse et ses graces.
+
+  Soumise aux memes lois, peut-etre que demain,
+  Comme elle aussi, Damon, j'aurai cesse de vivre....
+  Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin
+    Auquel ton amante se livre."
+
+  p. 92.
+
+The last and not the least of book-collectors, which I have had an
+opportunity of visiting, is MONSIEUR RIAUX. With respect to what may be
+called a ROUENNOISE LIBRARY, that of M. Riaux is greatly preferable to any
+which I have seen; although I am not sure whether M. Le Prevost's
+collection contain not nearly as many books. M. Riaux is himself a man of
+first-rate book enthusiasm; and unites the avocations of his business with
+the gratification of his literary appetites, in a manner which does him
+infinite honour. A city like Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants;
+and the government, when it begins to breathe a little from recent
+embarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and support that finest of all
+patriotic feelings,--a desire to preserve the RELICS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS
+of PAST AGES. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in objects which may
+gratify the most unbounded passion in this pursuit. It is the country where
+formerly the harp of the minstrel poured forth some of its sweetest
+strains; and the lay and the fabliaux of the twelfth and thirteenth
+centuries, which delight us in the text of Sainte Palaye, and in the
+versions of Way, owed their existence to the combined spirit of chivalry
+and literature, which never slumbered upon the shores of Normandy.
+
+Farewell now to ROUEN.[77] I have told you all the tellings which I thought
+worthy of communication. I have endeavoured to make you saunter with me in
+the streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and the churches. We have, in
+imagination at least, strolled together along the quays, visited the halls
+and public buildings, and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Catharine upon
+the enchanting view of the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. We
+have from thence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed a
+country equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our hearts, from
+that same height, have wished all manner of health, wealth, and prosperity,
+to a land thus abounding in corn and wine, and oil and gladness. We have
+silently, but sincerely prayed, that swords may for ever be "turned into
+plough-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks:"--that all heart-burnings,
+antipathies, and animosities, may be eternally extinguished; and that, from
+henceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend to
+establish, upon a firmer footing, and upon a more comprehensive scale, the
+peace and happiness of fellow-creatures, of whatever persuasion they may
+be:--of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual and of
+national improvement, and blend the duties of social order with the higher
+calls of morality and religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolish
+thoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in an honest heart,
+which, seeing that all creation is animated and upheld by ONE and the SAME
+POWER, cannot but ardently hope that ALL may be equally benefited by a
+reliance upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descended
+somewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled in
+flower-gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors of
+works--both of the dead and of the living. So now, fare you well. Commend
+me to your family and to our common friends,--especially to the Gorburghers
+should they perchance enquire after their wandering Vice President. Many
+will be the days passed over, and many the leagues traversed, ere I meet
+them again. Within twenty-four hours my back will be more decidedly turned
+upon "dear old England"--for that country, in which her ancient kings once
+held dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said _acre_) is
+equally interesting to the antiquary and the agriculturist. I salute you
+wholly, and am yours ever.
+
+
+[71] The reader may possibly not object to consult two or three pages of
+    the _Bibliographical Decameron_, beginning at page 137, vol. ii.
+    respecting a few of the early Rouen printers. The name of MAUFER,
+    however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled _Gaietanus
+    de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor. Libros_, of the
+    date of 1476--in the possession of Earl Spencer. See _AEd.
+    Althorp_. vol. ii. p. 134. From the colophon of which we can only
+    infer that Maufer was a _citizen of Rouen_. [According to M.
+    Licquet, the first book printed at Rouen--a book of the greatest
+    rarity--was entitled _Les Croniques de Normandie, par Guillaume Le
+    Talleur_, 1487, folio.]
+
+[72] [Since the publication of the first edition of this Tour, I have had
+    _particular_ reason to become further acquainted with the
+    partiality of the Rouennois for Parisian printing. When M. Licquet did
+    me the honour to translate my IXth Letter, subjoining notes, (which
+    cut their own throats instead of that of the author annotated upon) he
+    employed the press of Mons. Crapelet, at Paris: a press, as eminently
+    distinguished for its beauty and accuracy, as its Director has proved
+    himself to be for his narrow-mindedness and acrimony of feeling. M.L.
+    (as I learnt from a friend who conversed with him, and as indeed I
+    naturally expected) seemed to be sorry for what he had done.]
+
+[73] _like Aldus, "say my saying" quickly_.] Consult Mr. Roscoe's
+    _Life of Leo X._ vol. i. p. 169-70, 8vo. edit. Unger, in his Life
+    of Aldus, _edit. Geret._ p. xxxxii. has a pleasant notice of an
+    inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of his
+    printing-office by Aldus. [It has been quoted to satiety, and I
+    therefore omit it here.]
+
+[74] [Mons. Periaux has lately published a Dictionary of the Streets of
+    Rouen, in alphabetical order; in two small, unostentatious, and useful
+    octavo volumes.]
+
+[75] [Mons. Licquet translates the latter part of the above passage
+    thus:--"avec quelle facilite nous parvenons a nous abuser
+    nous-memes,"--adding, in a note, as follows: "J'avais d'abord vu un
+    tout autre sens dans la phrase anglaise. Si celui que j'adopte n'etait
+    pas encore le veritable, j'en demande sincerement pardon a l'auteur."
+    In turn, I may not be precisely informed of the meaning and force of
+    the verb "_abuser_"--used by my translator: but I had been better
+    satisfied with the verb _tromper_--as more closely conveying the sense
+    of the original.]
+
+[76] M. Le Prevost is a belles-lettres Antiquary of the highest order. His
+    "Memoire faisant suite a l'Essai sur les Romans historiques du moyen
+    age" may teach modern Normans not to despair when death shall have
+    laid low their present oracle the ABBE DE LA RUE. [I am proud, in
+    this second edition of my Tour, to record the uninterrupted
+    correspondence and friendship of this distinguished Individual; and I
+    can only regret, in common with several friends, that M. Le Prevost
+    will not summon courage sufficient to visit a country, once in such
+    close connexion with his own, where a HEARTY RECEPTION has long
+    awaited him.]
+
+[77] [The omission, in this place, of the entire IXth Letter, relating to
+    the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Rouen, must be accounted for, and it is hoped,
+    approved, on the principle laid down at the outset of this
+    undertaking; namely, to omit much that was purely bibliographical, and
+    of a secondary interest to the general Reader. The bibliography, in
+    the original IXth Letter, being of a partial and comparatively dry
+    description--as relating almost entirely to ancient volumes of Church
+    Rituals--was thought to be better omitted than abridged. Another
+    reason might be successfully urged for its omission.
+
+    This IXth Letter, which comprehends 22 pages in the previous
+    impression, and about 38 pages in the version, having been translated
+    and _separately_ published in 1821, by Mons. Licquet (who
+    succeeded M. Gourdin as Principal Librarian of the Library in
+    question) I had bestowed upon it particular attention, and entered
+    into several points by way of answer to his remarks, and in
+    justification or explanation of the original matter. In consequence,
+    any _abridgement_ of that original matter must have led to
+    constant notice of the minute remarks, and pigmy attacks, of my
+    critical translator: and the stream of intelligence in the text might
+    have been diverted, or rendered unpalatable, by the observations, in
+    the way of controversy, in the notes. If M. Licquet considers this
+    avowal as the proclaiming of his triumph, he is welcome to the laurels
+    of a Conqueror; but if he can persuade any COMMON FRIENDS that, in the
+    translation here referred to, he has defeated the original author in
+    one essential position--or corrected him in one flagrant inaccuracy--I
+    shall be as prompt to thank him for his labours, as I am now to
+    express my astonishment and pity at his undertaking. When M. Licquet
+    put forth the brochure in question--(so splendidly executed in the
+    press of M. Crapelet--to harmonise, in all respects, with the large
+    paper copies of the original English text) he had but recently
+    occupied the seat of his Predecessor. I can commend the zeal of the
+    newly-appointed Librarian in Chief; but must be permitted to question
+    alike his judgment and his motives.
+
+    One more brief remark in this place. My translator should seem to
+    commend what is only laudatory, in the original author, respecting his
+    countrymen. Sensitively alive to the notice of their smallest defects,
+    he has the most unbounded powers of digestion for that of their
+    excellences. Thus, at the foot of the ABOVE PASSAGE, in the text,
+    Mons. Licquet is pleased to add as follows--in a note: "Si M. Dibdin
+    ne s'etait livre qu'a des digressions de cette nature, il aurait
+    trouve en France un chorus universel, un concert de voeux unanimes:"
+    vol. i. p. 239. And yet few travellers have experienced a more cordial
+    reception, and maintained a more _harmonious_ intercourse, than
+    HE, who, from the foregoing quotation, is more than indirectly
+    supposed to have provoked opposition and _discord!_]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGE DE BOSCHERVILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THE
+ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC.
+
+_May_, 1818.
+
+
+MY DEAR FRIEND.
+
+
+In spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian attractions, the
+CITY OF ROUEN must be quitted--and I am about to pursue my route more in
+the character of an independent traveller. No more _Diligence_, or
+_Conducteur_. I have hired a decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, and
+a yet more promising postilion: and have already made a delightfully rural
+migration. Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhanging
+roofs, narrow streets, cracking whips, the never-ceasing noise of carts and
+carriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses of
+population:--Adieu!--and in their stead, welcome be the winding road, the
+fertile meadow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the broad and sweeping
+Seine!
+
+Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten and eleven,
+A.M. the rattling of horses' hoofs, and the echoes of a postilion's whip,
+were heard within the court-yard of the _Hotel Vatel_. Monsieur, Madame,
+Jacques--and the whole fraternity of domestics, were on the alert--"pour
+faire les adieux a Messieurs les Anglois." This Jacques deserves somewhat
+of a particular notice. He is the prime minister of the Hotel Vatel.[78] A
+somewhat _uncomfortable_ detention in England for five years, in the
+character of "prisoner of war," has made him master of a pretty quick and
+ready utterance of common-place phrases in our language; and he is not a
+little proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider him
+quite a phenomenon in his way; and it is right you should know that he
+affords a very fair specimen of a sharp, clever, French servant. His bodily
+movements are nearly as quick as those of his tongue. He rises, as well as
+his brethren, by five in the morning; and the testimonies of this early
+activity are quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats,
+singing French airs, and scolding the boot-boy. He rarely retires to rest
+before mid-night; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round of
+occupation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to be
+conscious of it--declaring that "the English make him saucy, but that
+naturally he is very civil." He always speaks of human beings in the
+_neuter_ gender; and to a question whether such a one has been at the
+Hotel, he replies, "I have not seen _it_ to-day." I am persuaded he is a
+thoroughly honest creature; and considering the pains which are taken to
+spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and propriety he conducts
+himself.
+
+About eleven o'clock, we sprung forward, at a smart trot, towards the
+barriers by which we had entered Rouen. Our postilion was a thorough master
+of his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed to know no cessation from
+action. The steeds, perfectly Norman, were somewhat fiery; and we rattled
+along the streets, (for the _chausse_ never causes the least abatement of
+pace with the French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand rare
+sights ere we reached Havre--equally the limits of our journey, and of our
+contract with the owner of the cabriolet. That accomplished antiquary M. Le
+Prevost, whose name you have often heard, had furnished me with so dainty a
+bill of fare, or carte de voyage; that I began to consider each hour lost
+which did not bring us in contact with some architectural relic of
+antiquity, or some elevated position--whence the wandering Seine and wooded
+heights of the adjacent country might be surveyed with equal advantage.
+
+You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon something
+like a similar expedition:--when the morning has been fair, the sun bright,
+the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such moments how the ardour
+of hope takes possession of one!--How the heart warms, and the conversation
+flows! The barriers are approached; we turn to the left, and commence our
+journey in good earnest. Previously to gaining the first considerable
+height, you pass the village of _Bapeaume_. This village is exceedingly
+picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is enlivened by a rapid
+rivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine direction, into the Seine.
+You now begin to ascend a very commanding eminence; at the top of which are
+scattered some of those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste.
+Catharine. The road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed; and dismounting,
+we let our steeds breathe freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Our
+first halting-place, according to the instructions of M. Le Prevost, was
+_St. George de Boscherville_; an ancient abbey established in the twelfth
+century, This abbey is situated about three French leagues from Rouen. Our
+route thither, from the summit of the hill which we had just ascended, lay
+along a road skirted by interminable orchards now in full bloom. The air
+was perfumed to excess by the fragrance of these blossoms. The apple and
+pear were beautifully conspicuous; and as the sky became still more serene,
+and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it is
+impossible to conceive any thing more balmy and genial than was this lovely
+day. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly--when we reached the
+village of _Boscherville_; where stands the CHURCH; the chief remaining
+relic of this once beautiful abbey. We surveyed the west front very
+leisurely, and thought it an extremely beautiful specimen of the
+architecture of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; for certainly there
+are some portions more ancient than others. A survey of the chapter-house
+filled me with mingled sorrow and delight: sorrow, that the Revolution and
+a modern cotton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its original
+character; and delight, that the portions which remained were of such
+beautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone, being of a very
+close-grained quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it had been
+just cut from the quarry. The room, where a parcel of bare-legged girls and
+boys were working the respective machineries, had a roof of the most
+delicate construction.[79]
+
+The very sound of a _Monastery_ made me curious to examine the disposition
+of the building. Accordingly, I followed my guide through suites of
+apartments, up divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridors. I
+noticed the dormitories with due attention, and of course inquired eagerly
+for the LIBRARY:--but the shelves only remained--either the fear or the
+fury of the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing in
+the shape of a _book_. The whole was painted white. I counted eleven
+perpendicular divisions; and, from the small distances between the upper
+shelves, there must have been a very considerable number of _duodecimos_.
+The titles of the respective classes of the library were painted in white
+letters upon a dark-blue ground, at top. _Bibles_ occupied the first
+division, and the _Fathers_ the second: but it should seem that equal
+importance was attached to the works of _Heretics_ as to those called
+_Litterae Humaniores_--for each had a division of equal magnitude.
+
+On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the building,
+the eye rests entirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards, abundant
+kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in England, this spot, rich by
+nature, and desirable from its proximity to a great city, would, ere forty
+moons had waned, have grown up into beauty and fertility, and expanded into
+luxuriance of condition.
+
+The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On looking at my
+instructions I found that we had to stop to examine the remains of an old
+castle at _Delafontaine_--about two English miles from _St. George de
+Boscherville_. These remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, if
+I may so speak; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous: for a few
+broken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a stone
+chimney-piece of very curious construction and ornament. On observing a
+large cavity or loop-hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it by
+means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence surveyed the landscape
+before me. Here, having for some time past lost sight of the Seine, I
+caught a fine bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now becoming
+broader and broader--while, to the left, softly tinted by distance,
+appeared the beautiful old church we had just quitted: the verdure of the
+hedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddy
+blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. I admit, however,
+that this delicious morceau of landscape was greatly indebted, for its
+enchanting effect, to the blue splendour of the sky, and the soft
+temperature of the air; while the fragrance of every distended blossom
+added much to the gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descend
+from this elevation; and to think of reaching Duclair.
+
+DUCLAIR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine, which has now
+an absolute lake-like appearance. We stopped at the auberge to rest our
+horses; and I commenced a discourse with the master of the inn and his
+daughter; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-behaved young
+woman of about twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large crackling
+wood-fire to dress a fish called the _Alose_, for the passengers of the
+_diligence_--who were expected within half an hour. The French think they
+can never _butter_ their victuals sufficiently; and it would have produced
+a spasmodic affection in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seen
+the enormous piece of butter which this active young _cuisiniere_ thought
+necessary to put into the pot in which the '_Alose_' was to be boiled. She
+laughed at the surprise I expressed; and added "qu'on ne peut rien faire
+dans la cuisine sans le beurre." You ought to know, by the by, that the
+_Alose_, something like our _mackerel_ in flavour, is a large and delicious
+fish; and that we were always anxious to bespeak it at the table-d'hote at
+Rouen. Extricated from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought
+upon table, it forms not only a rich, but a very substantial dish.
+
+I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of the door--enjoying
+the breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the master of the place.
+Perceiving this, the landlord approached, and addressed me with a pleasant
+degree of familiarity. "You are from London, then, Sir?" "I am." "Ah Sir, I
+never think of London but with the most painful sensations." "How so?"
+"Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in that city before the
+Revolution. He was in partnership with an English gentleman. Can you
+possibly advise and assist me upon the subject?" I told him that my advice
+and assistance were literally not worth a sous; but that, such as they
+were, he was perfectly welcome to both. "Your daughter Sir, is not
+married?"--"Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore epousee: mais je lui dis
+qu'elle ne sera jamais _heureuse_ avant qu'elle le soit." The daughter, who
+had overheard the conversation, came forward, and looking archly over her
+shoulder, replied--"ou _malheureuse_, mon pere!" A sort of truism,
+expressed by her with singular epigrammatic force, to which there was no
+making any reply.
+
+Do you remember, my dear friend; that exceedingly cold winter's night,
+when, for lack of other book-entertainment, we took it into our heads to
+have a rummage among the _Scriptores Historiae Normannorum_ of
+DUCHESNE?--and finding therein many pages occupied by _Gulielmus
+Gemeticensis_, we bethought ourselves that we would have recourse to the
+valuable folio volume yeleped _Neustria Pia_:--where we presently seemed to
+hold converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of certain
+venerable establishments! I then little imagined that it would ever fall to
+my lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts of the Abbey of
+Jumieges;--or rather, of the ruins of what was once not less distinguished,
+as a school of learning, than admired for its wealth and celebrity as a
+monastic establishment. Yes, my friend, I have seen and visited the ruins
+of this Abbey; and I seem to live "mihi carior" in consequence.
+
+But I know your love of method--and that you will be in wrath if I skip
+from _Duclair_ to JUMIEGES ere the horses have carried us a quarter of a
+league upon the route. To the left of _Duclair_, and also washed by the
+waters of the Seine, stands _Marivaux_; a most picturesque and highly
+cultivated spot. And across the Seine, a little lower down, is the
+beautiful domain of _La Mailleraye_;--where are hanging gardens, and jets
+d'eaux, and flower-woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled meadows--for there
+lives and occasionally revels _La Marquise_.... I might have been not only
+a spectator of her splendor, but a participator of her hospitality; for my
+often-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a letter of
+introduction to her. What was to be done? One cannot be everywhere in one
+day, or in one journey:--so, gravely balancing the ruins of still life
+against the attractions of animated society, I was unchivalrous enough to
+prefer the former--and working myself up into a sort of fantasy, of
+witnessing the spectered forms of DAGOBERT and CLOVIS, (the fabled founders
+of the Abbey) I resolutely turned my back upon _La Mailleraye_, and as
+steadily looked forwards to JUMIEGES. We ascended very sensibly--then
+striking into a sort of bye-road, were told that we should quickly reach
+the place of our destination. A fractured capital, and broken shaft, of the
+late Norman time, left at random beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak the
+vicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height; whence, looking straight
+forward, we caught the first glance of the spires, or rather of the west
+end towers, of the Abbey of Jumieges.[80] "La voila, Monsieur,"--exclaimed
+the postilion--increasing his speed and multiplying the nourishes of his
+whip--"voila la belle Abbaye!"
+
+We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some neat houses
+to the right and left, we drove to a snug auberge, evidently a portion of
+some of the outer buildings, or of the chapter-house, attached to the
+Abbey. A large gothic roof, and central pillar, upon entering, attest the
+ancient character of the place.[81] The whole struck us as having been
+formerly of very great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny afternoon,
+and the villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. "Voila Messieurs les
+Anglois, qui viennent voir l'Abbaye--mais effectivement il n'y a rien a
+voir." I told the landlady the object of our visit. She procured us a guide
+and a key: and within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. I can
+never forget that entrance. The interior, it is true, has not the magical
+effect, or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first view of
+_Tintern_ abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there is necessarily more to
+attract attention. Like Tintern also, it is unroofed--yet this unroofing
+has proceeded from a different cause: of which presently. The side aisles
+present you with a short flattened arch: the nave has none: but you observe
+a long pilaster-like, or alto-rilievo column, of slender dimensions,
+running from bottom to top, with a sort of Roman capital. The arched
+cieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the eastern
+extremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of accident. The
+latter however had triumphed over the former: but for _accident_ you must
+read _revolution_.
+
+The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning; and we were getting
+far into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather, and the sun became
+occasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock, and began
+to prepare for dinner. To the left of us lay a huge pile of fragments of
+pillars and groinings of arches--the effects of recent havoc: to the right,
+within three yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated AGNES SOREL,
+Mistress of Charles VII, lay entombed:[82]--not a relic of mausoleum now
+marking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the choicest
+efforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to
+
+Breathe a prayer for her soul--and pass on!
+
+What a contrast to the present aspect of things!--to the mixed rubbish and
+wild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh covered! The mistress
+of the inn having furnished us with napkins and tumblers, we partook of our
+dinner, surrounded by the objects just described, with no ordinary
+sensations. The air now became oppressive; when, looking through the few
+remaining unglazed mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grew
+blacker and blacker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears.
+The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially; and as the storm
+neared us, it floated as it were round the abbey, affording--by means of
+its purple, dark colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the walls,--one
+of the most beautiful painter-like effects imaginable. In an instant
+almost--and as if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer--the whole
+scene became metamorphosed. The thunder growled, but only growled; and the
+threatening phalanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away, and melted into
+the quiet uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Dinner being
+dispatched, I rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which had
+survived ... not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of the present owner
+of the soil--who is a _rich_ man, living at Rouen--and who loves to dispose
+of any portion of the stone, whether standing or prostrate, for the sake of
+the lucre, however trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the whole
+corporation of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at their head, ought to
+stand between this ruthless, rich man, and the abbey--the victim of his
+brutal avarice and want of taste.[83]
+
+The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the bottom of some
+gently undulating hills, within two or three hundred yards of the Seine.
+The river here runs gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot of
+wood-covered hills--and all seemed, from our elevated station, indicative
+of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of prosperity,--all--save the mournful and
+magnificent remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed! In fact, this
+abbey exists only as a shell. I descended, strolled about the village, and
+mingled in the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach of
+evening--and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering, in the
+open air. Perceiving that I was anxious to gain information, they flocked
+around me--and from one man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligence
+about the havoc which had been committed during the Revolution upon the
+abbey, The roof had been battered down for the sake of the _lead_--to make
+bullets; the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into other
+destructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold to some
+speculators in a cannon-foundery at Rouen.[84] The revolutionary mania had
+even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be considered as
+
+    ....damned to everlasting fame,
+
+had been a monk of the monastery; and as soon as he had attained the
+headship of it, he disposed of every movable piece of furniture, to gratify
+the revolutionary pack which were daily howling at the gates of the abbey
+for entrance! Nor could he plead _compulsion_ as an excuse. He seemed
+to enjoy the work of destruction, of which he had the uncontrouled
+direction. But enough of this wretch.
+
+The next resting-place was CAUDEBEC: a very considerable village, or rather
+a small town. You go down a steep descent, on entering it by the route we
+came. As you look about, there are singular appearances on all sides--of
+houses, and hanging gardens, and elaborately cut avenues--upon summits,
+declivities, and on the plain. But the charm of the view, at least to my
+old-fashioned feelings, was a fine old gothic church, and a very fine spire
+of what _appeared_ to belong to another. As the evening had completely
+set in, I resolved to reserve my admiration of the place till the morrow.
+
+
+[78] [I am ignorant of his present destination; but learn that he has
+    quitted the above situation a long time.]
+
+[79] [Mr. COTMAN has published views of the West Front, the South East, the
+    West Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculptured capitals and
+    basso-relievos, &c. In the whole, seven plates.]
+
+[80] [Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Front: the Towers,
+    somewhat fore-shortened; the Elevation of the Nave--and doorway of the
+    Abbey: the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A somewhat
+    particular and animated description of it will be found in _Lieut.
+    Hall's Travels in France_, 8vo. p. 57, 1819. [In the first edition,
+    I had called the west end towers of the Abbey--"small." Mons. Licquet
+    has suggested that I must have meant "_comparatively_" small;--in
+    contradistinction to the centre-tower, which would have been larger.
+    We learn also from M. Licquet that the spire of this central tower was
+    demolished in 1573, by the Abbe le Veneur, Bishop of Evreux. What
+    earthly motive could have led to such a brutal act of demolition?]
+
+[81] ["I know perfectly well, says M. Licquet, the little Inn of which the
+    author here speaks. I can assure him that it never formed any portion
+    of the "chapter house." It was nevertheless une _dependance
+    exterieure_ (I will not attempt a version of this phrase) of the
+    abbey. Dare I venture to say it was the _cowhouse_? (etable aux
+    vaches). Thank you, good Mons. Licquet; but what is a cow-house but
+    "an _outer building_ attached to the Abbey?" Vide supra.]
+
+[82] [The heart and entrails only of this once celebrated woman were,
+    according to M. Licquet, buried in the above spot. The body was
+    carried to Loches: and BELLEFOREST _(Cosmog._ vol. i. Part ii.
+    col. 31-32. edit. 1575, folio) gives a description of the mausoleum
+    where it was there entombed: a description, adds M. Licquet, which may
+    well serve for the mausoleum that was at Jumieges.]
+
+[83] [Not the smallest portion or particle of a sigh escapes us, on being
+    told, as my translator has told us, that the "soil" in question has
+    become the property of another Owner. "Laius EST MORT"--are the
+    emphatic words of M. Licquet.]
+
+[84] [One of the bells of the Abbey of Jumieges is now in the Tower of that
+   of St. Ouen, at Rouen. LICQUET.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+CAUDEBEC. LILLEBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKARVILLE. MONTMORENCI CASTLE. HAVRE DE
+GRACE.
+
+
+My last concluded with our entrance into Caudebec. The present opens with a
+morning scene at the same place. For a miracle I was stirring before nine.
+The church was the first object of attraction. For the size of the place,
+it is really a noble structure: perhaps of the early part of the sixteenth,
+or latter part of the fifteenth century.[85] I speak of the exterior
+generally, and of a great portion of the interior. A little shabby
+green-baise covered door (as usual) was half open, and I entered with no
+ordinary expectations of gratification. The painted glass seemed absolutely
+to warm the place--so rich and varied were its colours. There is a great
+abundance of it, and especially of figures of family-groups
+kneeling--rather small, but with great appearance of portrait-like
+fidelity. They are chiefly of the first half of the sixteenth century: and
+I own that, upon gazing at these charming specimens of ancient painting
+upon glass, I longed to fix an artist before every window, to bear away
+triumphantly, in a portfolio of elephantine dimensions, a faithful copy of
+almost every thing I saw. In some of the countenances, I fancied I traced
+the pencil of LUCAS CRANACH--and even of HANS HOLBEIN.
+
+This church has numerous side chapels, and figures of patron-saints. The
+entombment of Christ in white marble, (at the end of the chapel of the
+Virgin,) is rather singular; inasmuch as the figure of Christ itself is
+ancient, and exceedingly fine in anatomical expression; but the usual
+surrounding figures are modern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive.
+I noted one mural monument, to the memory of _Guillaume Tellier_, which was
+dated 1484.[86] Few churches have more highly interested me than this at
+Caudebec.[87] From the church I strolled to the _Place_, where stood the
+caffe, by the banks of the Seine. The morning view of this scene perfectly
+delighted me. Nothing can be more picturesque. The river cannot be much
+less than a mile in width, and it makes a perfect bend in the form of a
+crescent. On one side, that on which the village stands, are walks and
+gardens through which peep numerous white villas--and on the other are
+meadows, terminating in lofty rising grounds--feathered with coppice-wood
+down to the very water's edge. This may be considered, in fact, only a
+portion of the vast _Forest de Brotonne_, which rises in wooded majesty on
+the opposite heights. The spirit and the wealth of our countrymen would
+make Caudebec one of the most enchanting summer-residences in the world.
+The population of the town is estimated at about five thousand.
+
+Judge of my astonishment, when, on going out of doors, I saw the river in a
+state of extreme agitation: the whole mass of water rising perpendicularly,
+as it were, and broad rippling waves rolling over each other. It was the
+_coming in of the tide_.... and within a quarter of an hour it appeared to
+have risen upwards of three feet. You may remember that, in our own
+country, the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenomenon; and I have seen the
+river at Glocester rise _at once_ to the height of eight or ten feet,
+throwing up a shower of foam from the gradually narrowing bed of the river,
+and causing all the craft, great and small, to rise up as if by magic, and
+to appear upon a level with the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, although
+similar in kind, was not so in degree; for it rose gradually yet most
+visibly--and within half an hour, the elevation could not have been less
+than _seven_ or _eight_ feet.
+
+Having walked for some time on the heights of the town, with which I was
+much gratified, I returned to my humble auberge, ordered the cabriolet to
+be got ready, and demanded the reckoning:--which, considering that I was
+not quite at an hotel-royale, struck me as being far from moderate. Two old
+women, of similar features and age, presented themselves as I was getting
+into the carriage: one was the mistress, and the other the fille de
+chambre. "Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n'oubliez pas, je vous
+prie, la fille-de-chambre--rappellez-vous que vos souliers ont ete
+superieurement decrottes." I took out a franc to remunerate the supposed
+fille-de-chambre--but was told it was the _mistress_. "N'importe, Monsieur,
+c'est a ce moment que je suis fille-de-chambre--quand vous serez parti, je
+serai la maitresse." The postilion seemed to enjoy this repartee as much as
+ourselves.
+
+I was scarcely out of the town half a mile, when I began to ascend. I found
+myself quickly in the middle of those rising grounds which are seen from
+the promenade or _Place du Caffe_, and could not look without extraordinary
+gratification upon the beautiful character of spring in its advanced state.
+The larch was even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees were perfectly
+clothed with foliage, of a tender yet joyous tint: the chestnut was
+gorgeously in bloom; the lime and beech were beginning to give abundant
+promise of their future luxuriance--while the lowlier tribes of laburnum
+and box, with their richly clad branches, covered the ground beneath
+entirely from view. The apple and pear blossoms still continued to
+variegate the wide sweep of foliage, and to fill the air with their
+delicious perfume. It might be Switzerland in miniature--or it might not.
+Only this I know--that it seemed as though one could live embosomed and
+enchanted in such a wilderness of sweets--reading the _fabliaux_ of the old
+Norman bards till the close of human existence!
+
+I found myself on a hard, strait, chalky old road--evidently Roman: and in
+due time perceived and entered the town of LILLEBONNE. But the sky had
+become overcast: soft and small rain was descending, and an unusual gloom
+prevailed ... when I halted, agreeably to my instructions, immediately
+before the gate of the ancient _Castle_. Venerable indeed is this Norman
+castle, and extensive are the ruins which have survived. I have a perfect
+recollection how it peeped out upon me--through the light leaf of the
+poplar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies close to the road, on
+the left. An old round tower, apparently of the time of William the
+Conqueror, very soon attracts your attention. The stones are large, and the
+interstices are also very considerable. It was here, says a yet current
+report, that William assembled the Barons of Normandy, and the invasion of
+England was determined upon. Such a spot therefore strikes an English
+beholder with no ordinary emotions. I alighted; sent the cabriolet to the
+inn, and wished both postilion and horses to get their dinners without
+delay. For myself, I had resolved to reserve my appetite till I reached
+_Bolbec_; and there was food enough before me of a different description,
+to exercise my intellectual digestion for at least the next hour. Knocking
+at the massive portals, I readily obtained admittance.
+
+The area, entirely a grass-plat, was occupied by several cows. In front,
+were evidently the ruins of a large chapel or church--perhaps of the XIVth
+century. The outer face of the walls went deeply and perpendicularly down
+to the bottom of a dry fosse; and the right angle portion of the building
+was covered with garden ground, where the owner showed us some peas which
+he boasted he should have at his table within five days. I own I thought he
+was very likely to carry his boast into execution; for finer vegetables, or
+a finer bed of earth, I had scarcely ever beheld. How things, my dear
+friend, are changed from their original character and destination! "But the
+old round tower," say you!--To "the old round tower" then let us go. The
+stair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. I reached the first floor, or
+circular room, and noticed the construction of the window seats--all of
+rough, solid, and massive stone. I ascended to the second floor; which, if
+I remember rightly, was strewn with a portion of the third floor--that had
+fallen in from sheer decay. Great must have been the crash--as the
+fragments were huge, and widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing upon
+the outer wall; through a loop-hole window, I gazed around with equal
+wonder and delight. The wall of this castle could not be less than ten feet
+in thickness. A young woman, the shepherdess of the spot, attended as
+guide.
+
+"What is that irregular rude mound, or wall of earth, in the centre of
+which children are playing?" "It is the _old Roman Theatre_, Sir." I
+immediately called to mind M. Le Prevost's instructions--and if I could
+have borrowed the wings of a spirit, I should have instantly alighted upon
+the spot--but it was situated without the precincts of the old castle and
+its appurtenances, and a mortal leap would have been attended with a mortal
+result. "Have you many English who visit this spot?" said I to my
+guide.--"Scarcely _any_, Sir--it is a frightful place--full of desolation
+and sadness.." replied she. Again I gazed around, and in the distance,
+through an aperture in the orchard trees, saw the little fishing village of
+_Quillebeuf_,[88] quite buried, as it were, in the waters of the Seine. An
+arm of the river meanders towards Lillebonne. Having gratified my
+picturesque and antiquarian propensities, from this elevated situation, I
+retrod, with more difficulty than toil, my steps down the stair-case. A
+second stroll about the area, and along the skirts of the wall, was
+sufficient to convince me only--how slight and imperfect had been my
+survey!
+
+On quitting the portal through which I entered, and bidding adieu to my
+Shepherdess and guide, I immediately hastened towards the Roman
+Theatre.[89] The town of Lillebonne has a very picturesque appearance from
+the old mound, or raised terrace, along the outer walls of the castle. In
+five minutes I mingled with the school boys who were amusing themselves
+within the ruins of all that is left of this probably once vast and
+magnificent old theatre. It is only by clearing away a great quantity of
+earth, with which these ruins are covered, that you can correctly ascertain
+their character and state of preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remark
+that the walls had much swerved from their original perpendicularity,--and
+that there was much irregularity in the laying of the bricks among the
+stones. But time, design, and accident, have each in turn (in all
+probability) so contributed to decompose, deface, and alter the original
+aspect of the building, that there is no forming a correct conjecture as to
+its ancient form. Earth, grass, trees, flowers, and weeds, have taken
+almost entire possession of some low and massive outer walls; so that the
+imagination has full play to supply all deficiencies which appear to the
+eye.
+
+From the whole of this interesting spot I retreated--with mixed sensations
+of melancholy and surprise--to the little auberge of the _Three Moors_, in
+the centre of the town. It had begun to rain smartly as we took shelter in
+the kitchen; where, for the first time since leaving England, I saw a
+display of utensils which might have vied with our own, or even with a
+Dutch interior, for neatness and order of disposition. Some of the dishes
+might have been as ancient as--not the old round Tower--but as the last
+English Duke of Normandy who might have banquetted there. The whole was in
+high polish and full display. On my complimenting the good _Aubergiste_
+upon so creditable a sight, she laughed, and replied briskly--"Ce n'est
+rien, ceci: Pentecote est tout pres, et donc vous verrez, Monsieur!"--It
+should seem that Whitsuntide was the season for a general household
+purification. Some of her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: but
+she had bought it, in the scramble which took place at the dispersion and
+destruction of the movables there, during the Revolution. I recommend all
+travellers to take a lunch, and enjoy a bottle of vin ordinaire, at _Les
+Trois-Negres._ I was obliged to summon up all my stock of knowledge in
+polite phraseology, in order to decline a plate of soup. "It was delicious
+above every thing"--"but I had postponed taking dinner till we got to
+Bolbec." "Bon--vous y trouverez un hotel superbe." The French are easily
+pleased; and civility is so cheap and current a coin abroad, that I wish
+our countrymen would make use of it a little more frequently than they
+appear to do. I started about two for Bolbec.
+
+The rain continued during the whole of my route thither; but it did not
+prevent me from witnessing a land of plenty and of picturesque beauty on
+all sides. Indeed it is scarcely possible to conceive a more rich and
+luxuriant state of culture. To the left, about half a league from
+Lillebonne, I passed the domain of a once wealthy, and extremely extensive
+abbey. They call it the _Abbey of Valasse._ A long rambling bare stone
+wall, and portions of a deserted ruin, kept in sight for full half an
+English mile. The immediate approach to BOLBEC is that of the entrance to a
+modern and flourishing trading town, which seems to be beginning to recover
+from the effects of the Revolution. After Rouen, and even Caudebec, it has
+a stiff modernized air. I drove to the principal inn, opposite the church,
+and bespoke dinner and a bed. The church is perfectly, modern, and equally
+heavy and large. Crowds of people were issuing from _Vespers_, when,
+ascending a flight of steps, (for it is built on ground considerably above
+the ground-floor of the inn) I resolved to wait for the final departure of
+the congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the interior, while
+dinner was getting ready.
+
+The sexton was a perfect character in his way; old, shrewd, communicative,
+and civil. There were several confessionals. "What--you confess here pretty
+much?" "Yes, Sir; but chiefly females, and among them many widows." I had
+said nothing to provoke this ungallant reply. "In respect to the
+_sacrament_, what is the proportion between the communicants, as to sex?"
+"Sir, there are one hundred women to twelve men." I wish I could say that
+this disproportion were confined to _France_.
+
+Quitting this heavy and ugly, but large and commodious fabric, I sought the
+inn and dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned professor in his
+art, and the produce of his skill was equally excellent and acceptable. I
+had scarcely finished my repast, and the _Gruyere_ cheese and nuts yet
+lingered upon the table, when the soft sounds of an organ, accompanied by a
+youthful voice, saluted my ears in a very pleasing manner. "C'est LE
+PAUVRE PETIT SAVOYARD, Monsieur"--exclaimed the waiter--"Vous allez
+entendre un air touchant! Ah, le pauvre petit!"--"Comment ca?" "Monsieur,
+il n'a ni pere ni mere; mais pour le chant--oh Dieu, il n'y a personne qui
+chante comme le pauvre petit Savoyard!" I was well disposed to hear the
+song, and to admit the truth of the waiter's observation. The little
+itinerant stopped opposite the door, and sung the following air:--
+
+  _Bon jour, Bon soir_.
+
+    Je peindrai sans detour
+  Tout l'emploi de ma vie:
+  C'est de dire _bon jour_
+  Et _bon soir_ tour-a-tour.
+  _Bon Jour_ a mon amie,
+  Lorsque je vais la voir.
+  Mais au fat qui m'ennuie,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_ franc troubadour,
+  Qui chantez la bombance;
+  La paix et les beaux jours;
+  Bacchus et les amours.
+  Qu'un rimeur en demence
+  Vienne avec vous s'asseoir,
+  Pour chanter la Romance,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+    _Bon jour_, mon cher voisin,
+  Chez vous la soif m'entraine:
+  _Bonjour_--si votre vin
+  Est de Beaune ou du Rhin;
+  Mon gosier va sans peine
+  Lui servir d'entonnoir;
+  Mais s'il est de Surene,
+              _Bon soir_.
+
+I know not how it was, but had the "petit Savoyard" possessed the
+cultivated voice of a chorister, I could not have listened to his notes
+with half the satisfaction with which I dwelt upon his history, as stated
+by the waiter. He had no sooner concluded and made his bow, than I bought
+the slender volume from which his songs had been chanted, and had a long
+gossip with him. He slung his organ upon his back, and "ever and anon"
+touching his hat, expressed his thankfulness, as much for the interest I
+had taken in his welfare, as for the trifling piece of silver which I slipt
+into his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the benches, placed on the outsides
+of the houses, were occupied--chiefly by females--to witness, it should
+seem, so novel and interesting a sight as an Englishman holding familiar
+discourse with a poor wandering Savoyard! My friend the sexton was among
+the spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared especially
+interested. "Que le bon Dieu vous benisse!" exclaimed the Savoyard, as I
+bade him farewell. On pursuing my route for a stroll upon the heights near
+the town, I had occasion to pass these benches of spectators. The women,
+almost without any exception, inclined their heads by way of a gracious
+salute; and Monsieur _le Sacristain_ pulled off his enormous cock'd hat
+with the consequence of a drum-major. He appeared not to have forgotten the
+donation which he had received in the church. Continuing my pursuit, I
+gained an elevated situation: whence, looking down upon the spot where I
+had left the Savoyard, I observed him surrounded by the females--each and
+every one of them apparently convulsed with laughter! Even the little
+musician appeared to have forgotten his "orphan state."
+
+The environs of _Bolbec_, especially in the upper part, are sufficiently
+picturesque. At least they are sufficiently fruitful: orchards, corn and
+pasture land--intermixed with meadows, upon which cotton was spread for
+bleaching--produced altogether a very interesting effect. The little
+hanging gardens, attached to labourer's huts, contributed to the beauty of
+the scene. A warm crimson sun-set seemed to envelope the coppice wood in a
+flame of gold. The road was yet reeking with moisture--and I retraced my
+steps, through devious and slippery paths, to the hotel. Evening had set
+in: the sound of the Savoyard's voice was no longer heard: I ordered tea
+and candles, and added considerably to my journal before I went to bed. I
+rose at five; and before six the horses were harnessed to the cabriolet.
+Having obtained the necessary instructions for reaching _Tancarville_, (the
+ancient and proud seat of the MONTMORENCIS) I paid my reckoning, and left
+Bolbec. As I ascended a long and rather steep hill, and, looking to the
+right and left, saw every thing in a state of verdure and promise, I did
+all I could to persuade myself that the journey would be agreeable, and
+that the castle of Montmorenci could not fail to command admiration. I was
+now in the high and broad "_route royale_" to Havre le Grace; but had
+scarcely been a league upon it, when, looking at my instructions, we struck
+out of the high road, to the left, and followed a private one through flat
+and uninteresting arable land. I cannot tell how many turns were taken, or
+how many pretty little villages were passed--till, after a long and gradual
+ascent, we came upon a height, flanked the greater part by coppice wood,
+through one portion of which--purposely kept open for the view--was seen at
+a distance a marvellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose grey and
+battered sides were lighted up with a pink colour from the morning sun) in
+the middle, as it were, of the _Seine_--which now really assumed an
+ocean-like appearance. In fact, these rocks were at a considerable
+distance, and appeared to be in the broadest part of the embouchure of that
+river. I halted the cabriolet; and gazed with unfeigned delight on this
+truly magnificent and fascinating scene!... for the larks were now mounting
+all around, and their notes, added to those of the "songsters of the
+grove," produced an effect which I even preferred to that from the organ
+and voice of the "pauvre petit Savoyard." The postboy partook of my
+rapture. "Voila, Monsieur, des rochers terriblement perpendiculiers--eh,
+quelle belle vue de la riviere, et du paysage!"
+
+Leaving this brilliant picture, we turned rather to the left, and then
+found our descent proportionably gradual with the ascent. The Seine was now
+right before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through partial vistos, had
+enabled us to ascertain. Still _Tancarville_ was deemed a terrible way off.
+First we were to go up, and then we were to go down--now to turn to the
+right, and afterwards to the left--a sort of [Greek: polla d'ananta
+katanta] route--when a prepossessing young paysanne told the postilion,
+that, after passing through such a wood, we should reach an avenue, from
+the further end of which the castle of _Montmorenci_ would be visible..
+"une petite lieue de distance." Every thing is "une petite lieue!" It is
+the answer to every question relating to distance. Though the league be
+double a German one, still it is "une petite!" Here however the paysanne
+happened to be right. We passed through the wood, gained the avenue, and
+from the further end saw--even yet towering in imposing magnitude--the
+far-famed _Chateau de Montmorenci_. It might be a small league off. I
+gained spirits and even strength at the sight: told the postilion to mend
+his pace--of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstration, while
+the echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer road now
+received us. Knolls of grass interwoven with moss, on the summits of which
+the beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems, now enclosed the road,
+which began to widen and to improve in condition. At length, turning a
+corner, a group of country people appeared--"Est-ce ici la route de
+Tancarville?"--"Tancarville est tout pres: c'est la, ou on voit la fumee
+des cheminees." Joyful intelligence! The post-boy increased his speed: The
+wheels seemed to move with a readier play: and in one minute and a half I
+was upon the beach of the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the only
+auberge in the village.
+
+I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in Rembrandt's pictures:
+and especially of those of his _old_ characters. I wish you could have seen
+the old woman, of the name of _Bucan_, who came out of this same auberge to
+receive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye; keen
+features, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint;
+about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks, were all those
+harmonizing wrinkles which become old age--_upon canvas_--while, below her
+chin, communicating with a small and shrunken neck, was that sort of
+concavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to express with a minuteness
+of touch, and mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesque
+effect! This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spirits
+and of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who had
+visited her solitude this year. Her husband approached, but she soon
+ordered him "to the right about"--to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. I was
+promised the best breakfast that could be got in Normandy, in twenty
+minutes. The inn being sufficiently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble.
+The tide was now coming up, as at Caudebec; but the sweep and breadth of
+the river being, upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yet
+so obvious--although I am quite sure that all the flats, which I saw on my
+arrival as a bed of mud, were, within a quarter of an hour, wholly covered
+with the tide: and, looking up to the right, I perceived the perpendicular
+walls of _Montmorenci Castle_ to be washed by the refluent wave. It was a
+sort of ocean in miniature before me. A few miserable fishing boats were
+moored upon the beach; while a small number of ill-clad and straggling
+villagers lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon the postboy
+and myself as beings dropt from the sky!
+
+On ascending a considerable elevation, I had the gratification of viewing
+_Quillebeuf_ a little more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite:
+while, to the right, contemplating the wide sweep of the river towards its
+embouchure, I fancied that I could see _Havre_. The group of rocks, which
+had so charmed us on our journey, now assumed a different character. On
+descending, I could discover, although at a considerable distance, the old
+woman standing at the door of the auberge--apparently straining her eyes to
+catch a glimpse of us; and she was almost disposed to scold for having put
+her reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a trial. The wood
+was blazing, and the room was almost filled by smoke--but a prolonged fast,
+and a stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning air, made Mr.
+Lewis and myself only think of allaying our hunger. In every public house,
+however mean, you see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering the
+plate. A dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee pot and cups of perfectly
+Brobdignagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent butter,
+formed the _materiel_ of our breakfast. The postboy, having stabled and
+refreshed his horses, was regaling himself in the kitchen--but-how do you
+think he was regaling himself?--Truly, in stretching himself upon a bench,
+and reading, as old Ascham expresses it, "a merry tale in Boccace." In
+other words, he was reading a French version of the Decameron of that
+celebrated author. Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of the
+general propensity of the common people to _read_--whether good or bad
+books ... but let us hope and believe the former. I left the bibliomaniacal
+postboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to visit the CASTLE... the once
+proud and yet commanding residence of the family of MONTMORENCI.
+
+I ascended--with fresh energies imparted from my breakfast. The day grew
+soft, and bright, and exhilarating ... but alas! for the changes and
+chances of every thing in this transitory world. Where was the warder? He
+had ceased to blow his horn for many a long year. Where was the harp of the
+minstrel? It had perished two centuries ago, with the hand that had struck
+its chords. Where was the attendant guard?--or pursuivants--or men at arms?
+They had been swept from human existence, like the leaves of the old limes
+and beech trees by which the lower part of the building was surrounded. The
+moat was dry; the rampart was a ruin:--the rank grass grew within the
+area... nor can I tell you how many relics of halls, banqueting rooms, and
+bed-rooms, with all the magnificent appurtenances of old castellated
+architecture, struck the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise! The
+singular half-circular, and half square, corner towers, hanging over the
+ever-restless wave, interested me exceedingly. The guide shewed me where
+the prisoners used to be kept--in a dungeon, apparently impervious to every
+glimmer of day-light, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to say at
+what period even the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was built:
+but I saw nothing that seemed to be more ancient than the latter end of the
+fifteenth century.[90] Perhaps the greater portion may be of the beginning
+of the sixteenth; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiring
+the painted borders, chiefly of a red colour, which run along the upper
+part of the walls, or wainscoats--giving indication not only of a good, but
+of a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of ornament was to be
+seen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of Jumieges? _Here_,
+indeed, they afforded evidence--an evidence, mingled with melancholy
+sensations on reflection--of the probable state of magnificence which once
+reigned throughout the castle. Between the corner towers, upon that part
+which runs immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace,
+now converted into garden ground--which commands an immediate and extensive
+view of the embouchure of the river. It is the property of a speculator,
+residing at Havre.
+
+The cabriolet meeting me at the bottom of the mound upon which the castle
+is built, (having paid the reckoning before I left the inn), I had nothing
+to do but to step in, and push forward for _Havre_. Retracing the road
+through which we came, we darted into the _Route Royale_, and got upon one
+of the noblest high roads in France. Between _Tancarville_ and _Havre_ lie
+_Hocher_ and _Harfleur_; each almost at the water's edge. I regretted I
+could not see the former; but on our approach to Harfleur I observed, to
+the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly built, country
+villas or modern chateaux. The immediate run down to Harfleur is
+exceedingly pleasing; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the
+exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon me. Few places, I
+believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages
+than Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder; and,
+before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies HAVRE. Every thing gives
+indication of commerce and prosperity as you gain upon the town. The houses
+increase in number and respectability of appearance--"Voyez-vous la,
+Monsieur, a droite, ces belles maisons de plaisance?--(exclaimed the
+charioteer)--"C'est la ou demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes: ma foi, ils
+ont un joli gout." The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the
+sagacity of the postilion. They are gloriously situated--facing the ocean;
+while the surrounding country teems with fish and game of every species.
+Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his
+description of such trout-streams as were those before us.
+
+But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds of vessels are seen in the
+commodious docks; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the
+globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, of
+business, and variety; and perfectly English. What a contrast to the gloomy
+solitude of Montmorenci! The outer and inner gates are passed. _Diligences_
+issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns,
+from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all
+sides.... Driving up the high street, we approached the hotel of the _Aigle
+d'Or,_[91] kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just in
+time for the table d'hote, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers were
+continually arriving and departing. What life and animation!... We sat down
+upwards of forty to dinner: and a good dinner it was. Afterwards, I settled
+for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu!--nor can I suppress my
+feelings in saying that, in wishing him farewell, I felt ten times more
+than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postilion.
+
+
+[85] The nave was begun in 1416. LICQUET.
+
+[86] Corrected by Mons. Licquet: with thanks from the Author. It was,
+    before, 1184.
+
+[87] Lieutenant Hall has well described it. I did not see his description
+    till more than a twelvemonth after my own had been written. A part may
+    be worth extracting.... "The principal object of attraction is the
+    CHURCH, the gothic spire of which is encircled by fillets of roses,
+    beautifully carved in stone, and continued to the very summit of the
+    steeple. The principal portal too is sculptured with no less richness
+    and delicacy than that of St. Maclou at Rouen. Its interior length is
+    about 250 feet by 72 of width. The central aisle [nave] is flanked on
+    either side by ten massive circular columns, the capitals of which
+    represent vine leaves and other decorations, more fanciful, and not
+    less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus.... In one of the chapels
+    there is a rude monumental effigy of the original architect of this
+    church. It consists of a small skeleton, drawn in black lines, against
+    a tablet in the wall: a mason's level and trowel, with the plan of a
+    building, are beside it, and an inscription in gothic characters,
+    relating that the architect endowed the church he had built with
+    certain lands, and died Anno 1484." _Travels in France_, p. 47,
+    1819, 8vo. I take this to be GUILLAUME TELLIER--mentioned above: but
+    in regard to the lands with which Tellier endowed the church, the
+    inscription says nothing. LICQUET.
+
+[88] Small as may be this village, and insignificant as may be its aspect,
+    it is one of the most important places, with respect to navigation, in
+    the whole course of the river Seine. Seven years ago there were not
+    fewer than _four-score_ pilots settled here, by order of government,
+    for the purpose of guarding against accidents which arise from a want
+    of knowledge of the navigation of the river. In time of peace this
+    number would necessarily be increased. In the year 1789 there were
+    upwards of 250 English vessels which passed it--averaging, in the
+    whole, 19,000 tons. It is from _Quillebeuf_ to _Havre_ that the
+    accidents arise. The author of a pompous, but very instructive memoir,
+    "_sur la Topographie et la Statistique de la Ville de Quillebeuf et de
+    l'embouchure de la Seine, ayant pour objet-principal la navigation et
+    la peche_," (published in the Transactions of the Rouen Society for
+    the year 1812, and from which the foregoing information has been
+    obtained) mentions three or four _wrecks_ which have taken place in
+    the immediate vicinity of Quillebeuf: and it should seem that a _calm_
+    is, of all things, the most fatal. The currents are strong, and the
+    vessel is left to the mercy of the tides in consequence. There are
+    also rocks and sand banks in abundance. Among the wrecks, was one, in
+    which a young girl of eighteen years of age fell a victim to the
+    ignorance of the pilot. The vessel made a false tack between _Hode_
+    and _Tancarville_, and running upon a bank, was upset in an instant.
+    An English vessel once shared the same calamity. A thick fog suddenly
+    came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank near the _Nez de Tancarville_,
+    and the crew had just time to throw themselves into the boat and
+    escape destruction. The next morning, so sudden and so decisive was
+    the change wrought by the sand and current, that, of the sloop, there
+    remained, at ebb-tide, only ten feet of her mast visible! It appears
+    that the _Quillebois_, owing to their detached situation, and their
+    peculiar occupations, speak a very barbarous French. They have a sort
+    of sing-song method of pronunciation; and the _g_ and _j_ are
+    strangely perverted by them. Consult the memoir here referred to;
+    which occupies forty octavo pages: and which forms a sequel to a
+    previous communication (in 1810) "upon the Topography and Medical
+    properties of Quillebeuf and its adjacent parts." The author is M.
+    Boismare. His exordium is a specimen of the very worst possible taste
+    in composition. One would suppose it to be a prelude to an account of
+    the discovery of another America!
+
+[89] ["The Roman Circus (says M. Licquet) is now departmental property.
+    Many excavations have already taken place under the directions of
+    Mons. Le Baron de Vanssay, the present Prefect of the Department. The
+    most happy results may be anticipated. It was in a neighbouring
+    property that an ANTIQUE BRONZE GILT STATUE, of the size of life, was
+    lately found," vol. i. 194. Of this statue, Mr. Samuel Woodburn, (with
+    that spirit of liberality and love of art which have uniformly
+    characterised his purchases) became the Owner. The sum advanced for it
+    was very considerable; but, in one sense, Mr. W. may be said to have
+    stood as the Representative of his country; for the French Government
+    declining to give the Proprietor the sum which he asked, Mr. Woodburn
+    purchased it--solely with the view of depositing it, on the same terms
+    of purchase, in a NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART, of which the bequest of Mr.
+    Payne Knight's ancient bronzes and coins, and the purchase of Mr.
+    Angerstein's pictures, might be supposed to lay the foundation.
+
+    This statue was accordingly brought over to England, and freely
+    exhibited to the curious admirers of ancient art. It is the figure of
+    an APOLLO--the left arm, extended to hold the lyre, being mutilated. A
+    portion of the limbs is also mutilated; but the torso, head and legs,
+    are entire: and are, of their kind, of the highest class of art.
+    Overtures were made for its purchase by government. The Trustees of
+    the British Museum were unanimous both in their admiration and
+    recommendation of it: it was indeed "strongly recommended" by them to
+    the Treasury. Several months however elapsed before an answer could be
+    obtained; and that answer, when it _did_ come, was returned in
+    THE NEGATIVE. The disappointment of reasonably indulged hopes of
+    success, was the least thing felt by its owner. It was the necessity
+    of transporting it, in consequence, to enrich a _rival
+    capital_--which, were its means equal to its wishes and good taste, it
+    must be confessed, makes us frequently blush for the comparative want
+    of energy and liberality, at home, in matters relating to ANCIENT
+    ART.]
+
+[90] Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of Tancarville, or Montmorenci
+    Castle.
+
+[91] I am not sure whether this inn be called the _Armes de France_,
+    or as above.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XI
+
+HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN.
+
+_Caen, May_, 1818.
+
+
+Well, my friend!... I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey of
+St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR and of
+MATHILDA his wife. But as you dearly love the gossip of a travelling
+journal, I shall take up the thread of my narrative from the place in which
+I last addressed you:--particularly as our route hither was marked by some
+circumstances worthy of recital. First, however, for _Havre_.
+
+I staid there only long enough to express my regret that the time of my
+residence could not be extended. It happened to be a fine afternoon, and I
+took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts.[92] The town was full
+of animation--whether relating to business or to pleasure. For the former,
+you must visit the quays; for the latter, you must promenade the high
+street, and more especially the _Boulevards_, towards the heights. The sun
+shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, and
+bawling human creatures.. who were in constant locomotion in this latter
+place.
+
+What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppe
+and Havre? Although even _here_ things would assume a rubbishing and
+littered aspect compared with the quays at _Liverpool_ or at _Hull_, yet it
+must be admitted, for the credit of Gallico-Norman commerce, that the quays
+of Havre make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing,
+sleeping, sitting, and of course talking _a pleine gorge_, in groups
+without end--but no drunkenness!.. not even an English oath saluted my ear.
+The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre. I saw the arrival of one
+of these packets; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic
+spirits of a host of French _laqnais de place_, tradespeople,
+&c.--attacking the passengers with cards of their address--with the feeble
+movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack.
+
+From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are flanked by broad
+ditches--of course plentifully supplied with water; and passing over the
+drawbridge, by which all carriages enter the town--and which absolutely
+trembles as if about to sink beneath you, as the _diligence_ rolls over
+it.--I made for the boulevards and tea-gardens; to which, business being
+well nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hundreds and by
+thousands. A fine afternoon throws every thing into "good keeping"--as the
+artists say. The trees, and meadows, and upper lands, were not only bright
+with the sun-beam, but the human countenance was lighted up with gladness.
+The occupations partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there was
+dancing and singing on all sides; a little beyond, appeared to sit a group
+of philosophers, or politicians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneath
+laburnums streaming with gold; while, still further, gradually becoming
+invisible from the foliage and winding path, strolled pairs in more gentle
+discourse! Meanwhile the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rapid and
+ceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air, and heightened the
+gratification of the scene....
+
+  And young and old came out to play
+  Upon a sun-shine holiday.
+
+Gaining a considerable ascent, I observed knolls of rich verdure, with fine
+spreading trees, and elegant mansions, to be in the foreground--in the
+middle-ground, stood the town of Havre:--in the distance, rolled and roared
+the expansive ocean! The sun was visibly going to rest; but his departing
+beams yet sparkled upon the more prominent points of the picture. There was
+no time for finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple of
+hours, on this interesting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge,
+and prepared for objects of _still_ life; in other words, for the
+examination of what might be curious and profitable in the shape of a
+_boke_.
+
+The lamps were lighted when I commenced my _Bibliomaniacal Voyage_ of
+discovery among the BOOKSELLERS. But what poverty of materials, for a man
+educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton! To every question, about rare
+or old books, I was told that I should have been on the Continent when the
+allies first got possession of Paris. In fact, I had not a single
+_trouvaille_.
+
+The packet was to sail by nine the next morning, precisely. For a wonder,
+(or rather no wonder at all, considering what had occurred during the last
+twenty-four hours) I had an excellent night's rest, and was prepared for
+breakfast by eight. Having breakfasted, I accompanied my luggage to the
+inner harbour, and observed the _Honfleur_ packet swarming with passengers,
+and crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks,
+trunks, cordage, and earthenware. We went on board, and took our stations
+near the helm; and after experiencing a good deal of _uncomfortable_
+heaving of the ocean, got clear from the mouth of the harbour, and stood
+out to sea. The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour. We
+were in truth closely stowed; and as these packets are built with flattish
+bottoms, and low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thus
+exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind began to
+subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Our
+crew was a motley one; but among them, an Abbess, with a visage of
+parchment-like rigidity, and with her broad streaming bands, seemed to
+experience particular distress. She was surrounded by some hale, hearty
+market women, whose robust forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed a
+striking contrast to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two,
+with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess
+was cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most
+piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below.
+
+Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure
+to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards the
+course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered
+_Harfleur_ and _Hocher_ nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the
+little fishing town of _Quillebeuf_, apparently embedded in the water.
+Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]--or
+whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs make
+amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plenty
+would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps no
+situation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.[94] I
+paid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be _vised_
+(which indeed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from
+the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn
+from which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see with
+what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in their
+trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and
+miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. I
+was fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence. The horses
+were in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand.
+
+Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, and
+apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time. It
+is not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, and
+apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were
+the Messrs. D*** of _L_**** _Hall_ in Yorkshire: the elder brother an
+Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were
+all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition.
+
+We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very high hill on
+the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon a
+noble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the truly
+magnificent view of the Seine--with glimpses of _Harfleur_ and _Havre_ on
+the opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick movement of
+the vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commodious manner. The
+ground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with the
+incumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of scent
+abroad--and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most luxuriant
+appearance to the landscape. Nature indeed seemed to have fructified every
+thing in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The face of the country
+is pasture-land throughout; that is to say, there are comparatively few
+orchards and little arable. I was told to pay attention to the cattle, for
+that the farmers prided themselves on their property of this kind. They may
+pride themselves--if they please: but their pride is not of a lofty cast of
+character. I have been in Lincolnshire, Herefordshire, and
+Gloucestershire--and have seen and enjoyed, in these counties, groups of
+cattle which appeared calculated for the land and the table of giants,
+compared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline species, which were
+straying, in thin flocks, through the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That
+triumphant and immutable maxim of "small bone and large carcase" seems,
+alas! to be unknown in these regions.
+
+However, on we rode--and gazed on all sides. At length we reached _Pont
+L'Eveque_, a pretty long stage; where we dined (says my journal) upon roast
+fowl, asparagus, trout, and an excellent omelette, with two good bottles of
+vin ordinaire--which latter, for four Englishmen, was commendably moderate.
+During dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents--the gutters
+foamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of the water. In the
+midst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right merrily and
+cordially; and the conducteur, seeing us in good humour, told us that "we
+need not hurry, for that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one." We
+readily assented to this position; but within half an hour, the weather
+clearing, we remounted: and by four o'clock, we all got inside--and
+politics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constant
+discourse and good humour as we rolled on for many a league. All the way to
+_Troarn_ (the last stage on this side of Caen) the country presents a truly
+lovely picture of pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded heights,
+in which English wealth and English taste would have raised villas of the
+prettiest forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to be
+mentioned in the same breath with the country about Rodwell in
+Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage as
+are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut _Wynkyn de
+Worde_:[95] but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms and
+limes, and meadows begemmed with butter-cups--these are the characteristics
+of the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however you
+look for neat villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you see
+groups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population gives to
+French landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of character. It is in
+cities that you must look for human beings--and _for_ cities the French
+seem to have been created.
+
+It was at _Troarn_, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that our
+passports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. We
+surrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen, with their cocked hats
+and blue jackets--having a belt from which a sword was suspended--consulted
+together for a minute only--returned our keys--and telling us that matters
+would be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no
+trouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs.
+D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy being
+secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curiosity for
+a view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizon
+had become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of _St. Stephen's
+Abbey_--the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine
+o'clock; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very
+indistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in a
+lengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had the
+appearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like our
+famous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the surrounding
+country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all the
+population seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude we
+plunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the _Hotel
+d'Espagne--_a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was
+taken down; and here we were assailed by garcons de place, with cards in
+their hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We had
+somehow got a recommendation to the _Hotel Royale, Place Royale_, and such
+a union of _royal_ adjuncts was irresistible. Accordingly, we resolved upon
+moving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed upon barrows: and we
+marched behind, "in double quick time," in order to secure our property.
+The town appeared to improve as we made our different turnings, and gained
+upon our hotel. "Le voila, Messieurs"--exclaimed our guides and
+baggage-conductors--as we got into a goodly square, and saw a fair and
+comely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids, and garcons
+de place, encountered us as we entered. "Messieurs, je vous salue,"--said a
+huge, ungracious looking figure:--which said figure was nothing less than
+the master of the hotel--Mons. Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room
+on the ground floor, to the right--and ordered tea; but had scarcely begun
+to enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when the same
+ungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... to tell us "all about
+THE DUEL."
+
+I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from Havre to
+Honfleur) something respecting this most extraordinary duel between a young
+Englishman and a young Frenchman: but as I mean to reserve my _Caen budget_
+for a distinct dispatch, and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in
+this place, I must bid you adieu; only adding that I dreamt, last night,
+about some English antiquaries trying to bend the bow of William the
+Conqueror!--Can this be surprising? Again farewell.
+
+
+[92] Evelyn, who visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de Richlieu was
+    governor, describes the citadel as "strong and regular, well stored
+    with artillery, &c. The works furnished with faire brass canon, having
+    a motto, "_Ratio ultima Regum_." The haven is very spacious." _Life
+    and Writings of John Evelyn_, edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 51. Havre seems
+    always to have been a place of note and distinction in more senses
+    than one. In Zeiller's _Topographia Galliae,_ (vol. iii.) there is a
+    view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques
+    Gomboust, Ingenieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very
+    considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings and places are
+    referred to in the directions; and among them we observe the
+    BOULEVARDS DE RICHELIEU.
+
+[93] It was so in Evelyn's time: in 1644, "It is a poore fisher
+    towne (says he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull
+    habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of
+    raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts." _Life and Writings of
+    J. Evelyn_; 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 51.
+
+[94] [It is near a chapel, on one of the heights of this town, that Mr.
+    Washington Irving fixes one of his most exquisitely drawn characters,
+    ANNETTE DELABRE, as absorbed in meditation and prayer respecting the
+    fate of her lover; and I have a distinct recollection of a beautiful
+    piece of composition, by one of our most celebrated artists, in which
+    the _Heights of Honfleur_, with women kneeling before a crucifix
+    in the foreground, formed a most beautiful composition. The name of
+    the artist (was it the younger Mr. Chalon?) I have forgotten.]
+
+[95] [My translator says, "un Wynkyn de Worde non coupe:" Qu. Would not the
+    _Debure_ Vocabulary have said "non rogne?"]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST.
+STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DARNETAL. ABBE DE LA SAINTE TRINITE. OTHER
+PUBLIC EDIFICES.
+
+
+I have now resided upwards of a week at Lagouelle's, the _Hotel Royale_,
+and can tell you something of the place and of the inhabitants of CAEN.
+Caen however is still-life after Rouen: but it has been, and yet is, a town
+exceedingly well-deserving the attention of the lounging traveller and of
+the curious antiquary. Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but
+less vast and splendid, than those of Rouen; while the streets and the
+houses are much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of the
+department of CALVADOS, or of LOWER NORMANDY: and its population is
+estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a school of
+art, a college, mayoralty, and all the adjuncts of a corporate society.[96]
+But I must first give you something in the shape of political economy
+intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of _Bayeux, Vire, Falaise,
+Lisieux, Pont L'Eveque_, is the country of pasturage and of cattle. It is
+also fertile in the apple and pear; and although at _Argences_ there have
+been vineyards from time immemorial, yet the produce of the grape, in the
+character of _wine_,[97] is of a very secondary description. There are
+beautiful and most abundant market gardens about Caen; and for the last
+seventy years they have possessed a garden for the growth and cultivation
+of foreign plants and trees. It is said that more than nine hundred species
+of plants and trees are to be found in the department of CALVADOS, of which
+some (but I know not how many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Of
+forests and woods, the number is comparatively small; and upon that limited
+number great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In the
+arrondissement of Caen itself, there are only 344 _hectares_.[98] The truth
+is, that in the immediate neighbourhood of populous towns, the French have
+no idea of PLANTING. They suffer plain after plain, and hill after hill, to
+be denuded of trees, and make no provision for the supply of those who are
+to come after them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country about
+Rouen--(especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen--) is
+gradually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you approach the
+town, there is a dreary flatness of country, unrefreshed by the verdure of
+foliage: whereas the soil, kind and productive by nature, requires only the
+slightest attention of man to repay him a hundred fold. What they will do
+some fifty years hence for _fuel_, is quite inconceivable. It is true that
+the river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the sea,
+brings up vessels of even 200 tons burthen, in which they may stow plenty
+of wood; but still, the expenses of carriage, and duties of a variety of
+description--together with the _dependence_ of the town upon such
+accidental supply--would render the article of fuel a most expensive
+concern. It is also true that they pretend that the soil, in the department
+of Calvados, contains _coal_; but the experiments which were made some
+years ago at _Littry_, in the arondissement of _Bayeux_, should forbid the
+Caennois to indulge any very sanguine expectations on that score.
+
+In respect to the trade of the town, the two principal branches are _lace_
+and _cap_ making. The former trade is divided with Bayeux; and both places
+together give occupation to about thirty thousand pairs[99] of hands.
+People of all ages may be so employed; and the annual gross receipts have
+been estimated at four millions of francs. In _cap_ making only, at Caen,
+four thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce of
+two millions of francs has been the result of that branch of trade. A great
+part of this manufacture was consumed at home; but more than one half used
+to be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the colonies belonging to France.
+They pretend to say, however, that this article of commerce is much
+diminished both in profit and reputation: while that of _table linen_ is
+gaining proportionably in both.[100] There were formerly great _tanneries_
+in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade has
+suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and the
+ignorance and inattention of the masters to recent improvements, introduced
+by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance this
+misfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciously
+directed commercial spirit in the article of _porcelaine_; and if Caen be
+inferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in
+the articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that
+which relates to _pottery_ and _china_: no mean articles in the supply of
+domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher "pith and
+moment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed.
+There is a better spirit of _education_ abroad; and, for its size, more
+science and more literature will be found in it.
+
+This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers. There are two
+distinct academies--one for "Science and the Belles-Lettres"--the other for
+agriculture and commerce. The _Lycee_ is a noble building, close to the
+Abbey of St. Stephen: but I wish its facade had been Gothic, to harmonise
+with the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the
+prevalent appearance of _stone_ in its public buildings. The environs of
+the town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a
+comparatively soft state--and is thus cut into the several forms required
+with the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding day
+appears to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw some important
+improvements making in the outskirts of the town,[101] in which they were
+finishing shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and
+gratifying. Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they find
+stone of a closer grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavements
+for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place,
+which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me as
+being equally curious and uncommon. It is asserted that they have different
+kinds of _marble_ in the department of Calvados, which equal that of the
+south of France. At _Basly_ and _Vieux_ white marble is found which has
+been judged worthy of a comparison with Parian; but this is surely a little
+presumptuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu brought from
+Vieux all the marble with which he built the chapel in the college of the
+Sorbonne.
+
+Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular society,
+Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners of the common
+people are pretty much, if not entirely, the same; except that, as to
+dress, the _cauchoise_ is here rather more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen.
+The upper fille-de-chambre at our hotel displays not only a good correct
+model of national dress, but she is well-looking in her person, and
+well-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured young
+woman to sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girl's
+eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the proposal, and even an
+expression of gratitude mingled itself in her manner of compliance. I send
+you the figure and dress of the fille-de-chambre at the _Hotel Royale_ of
+Caen.[102]
+
+[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, CAEN.]
+
+Caen is called the depot of the English.[103] In truth there is an amazing
+number of our countrymen here, and from very different causes. One family
+comes to reside from motives of economy; another from those of education; a
+third from those of retirement; and a fourth from pure love of sitting
+down, in a strange place, with the chance of making some pleasant
+connection, or of being engaged in seeking some strange adventure: Good and
+cheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main attractions. But
+there is desperate ill blood just now between the _Caennois_ (I will not
+make use of the enlarged term _Francois_) and the English; and I will tell
+you the cause. Do you remember the emphatic phrase in my last, "all about
+the duel?" Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,[104] a duel
+was fought between a young French law-student, and a young Englishman; the
+latter the son of a naval captain. I will mention no names; and so far not
+wound the feelings of the friends of the parties concerned. But this duel,
+my friend, has been "THE DUEL OF DUELS"--on the score of desperation, and
+of a fixed purpose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I
+trust will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, in
+spite of all the "bouleversemens" of the Revolution, has maintained its
+ancient reputation of possessing a very large seminary, or college for
+students at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in number. Most young
+gentlemen under twenty years of age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, or
+foolish. Generally speaking, however, the students conduct themselves with
+propriety: but there had been a law-suit between a French and English
+suitor, and the Judge pronounced sentence in favour of our countryman. The
+hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful number of
+law-students. As they were retiring, one young Frenchman either made
+frightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insulting
+manner, at a young Englishman--the son of this naval captain. Our
+countryman had no means or power of noticing or resenting the insult, as
+the aggressor was surrounded by his companions. It so happened that it was
+fair time at Caen; and in the evening of the same day, our countryman
+recognised, in the crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man who
+had insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave him to
+understand that his rude behaviour should be noticed at a proper time and
+in a proper place: whereupon the Frenchman came up to him, shook him
+violently by the arm, and told him to "fix his distance on the ensuing
+morning." Now the habit of duelling is very common among these
+law-students; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and of course ...
+MISS--and then fancy themselves great heroes ... and there is an end of the
+affair. Not so upon the present occasion. "Fifteen paces," if you
+please--said the student, sarcastically, with a conviction of the
+backwardness of his opponent to meet him. "FIVE, rather"--exclaimed the
+provoked Englishman--"I will fight you at FIVE paces:"--and it was agreed
+that they should meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder.
+
+Each party was under twenty; but I believe the English youth had scarcely
+attained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate will cause your
+flesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as _one_ must necessarily
+_fall_, from firing at so short a distance, that only _one_ pistol should
+be loaded with _ball_: the other having nothing but _powder_:--and that, as
+the Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the choice of the pistols.
+They parted. The seconds prepared the pistols according to agreement, and
+the fatal morning came. The combatants appeared, without one jot of
+abatement of spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grass
+before them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder and
+ball. The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed and balanced it
+most carefully in his hand, and then ... laid it down. He seized the other
+pistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence he was to
+fire. The English youth was necessarily compelled to take the abandoned
+pistol. Five paces were then measured ... and on the signal being given,
+they both fired ... and the Frenchman fell ... DEAD UPON THE SPOT! The
+Frenchman had in fact _taken up_, but afterwards _laid down_, the very
+pistol which was loaded with the fatal _ball_--on the supposition that it
+was of too light a weight; and even seemed to compliment himself upon his
+supposed sagacity on the occasion. But to proceed. The ball went through
+his heart, as I understood. The second of the deceased on seeing his friend
+a reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and outrageous ... and was for
+fighting the survivor immediately! Upon which, the lad of mettle and
+courage replied, that he would not fight a man without a _second_--"But
+go," said he, (drawing his watch coolly from his fob). I will give you
+twenty minutes to come back again with your second." He waited, with his
+watch in his hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the return
+of the Frenchman; but on the expiration of the time, his own second
+conjured him to consult his safety and depart; for that, from henceforth,
+his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground; obtained his passport, and
+quitted the town instantly ... The dead body of his antagonist was then
+placed on a bier: and his funeral was attended by several hundreds of his
+companions--who, armed with muskets and swords, threatened destruction to
+the civil and military authorities if they presumed to interfere. All this
+has necessarily increased the ill-blood which is admitted to exist between
+the English and French ... but the affair is now beginning to blow
+over.[105]
+
+A truce to such topics. It is now time to furnish you with some details
+relating to your favourite subjects of ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES and
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. The former shall take precedence. First of the _streets_;
+secondly of the _houses_; and thirdly of the _public buildings_;
+ecclesiastical and civil.
+
+To begin with the STREETS. Those of _St. Pierre, Notre Dame_, and _St.
+Jean_ are the principal for bustle and business. The first two form one
+continuous line, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact a
+very interesting stroll to the observer of men and manners. The shops are
+inferior to those of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible in
+them. The street beyond the abbey, and those called _Guilbert_, and _des
+Chanoines_, leading towards the river, are considered among the genteelest.
+Ducarel pronounced the _houses_ of Caen "mean in general, though usually
+built of stone;" but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The open
+parts about the _Lycee_ and the _Abbey of St. Stephen_, together with the
+_Place Royale_, where the library is situated, form very agreeable spaces
+for the promenade of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The
+_Courts_ are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time of
+Francis I. Of _domestic_ architecture, those houses, with elaborate
+carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubtless of the greatest
+antiquity. There are a great number of these; and some very much older than
+others.
+
+A curious old house is to the right hand corner of the street _St. Jean_:
+as you go to the Post Office. But I must inform you that the residence of
+the famous MALHERBE yet exists in the street leading to the Abbey of St.
+Stephen. This house is of the middle of the sixteenth century: and what
+Corneille is to _Rouen_, Malherbe is to _Caen_. "ICI NAQUIT MALHERBE," &c.
+as you will perceive from the annexed view of this house, inscribed upon
+the front of the building. Malherbe has been doomed to receive greater
+honours. His head was first struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuate
+the resemblances of the most eminent literary characters (male and female)
+in France: and it is due to the amiable Pierre-Aime Lair to designate him
+as the FATHER of this medallic project.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In perambulating this town, one cannot but be surprised at the absence of
+_Fountains_--those charming pieces of architecture and of street
+embellishment. In this respect, Rouen has infinitely the advantage of Caen:
+where, instead of the trickling current of translucent water, we observe
+nothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly _wells_[106]
+as tasteless in their structure as they are inconvenient in the procuring
+of water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the dates of 1560 and
+1588.
+
+The PUBLIC EDIFICES, however, demand a particular and appropriate
+description: and first of those of the ecclesiastical order. Let us begin
+therefore with the ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN; for it is the noblest and most
+interesting on many accounts. It is called by the name of that Saint,
+inasmuch as there stood formerly a chapel, on the same site, dedicated to
+him. The present building was completed and solemnly dedicated by William
+the Conqueror, in the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert and
+William, his favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, and
+Thomas Archbishop of York--towards the year 1080: but I strongly suspect,
+from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that nothing
+more than the west front and the towers upon which the spires rest, remain
+of its ancient structure. The spires (as the Abbe De La Rue conjectures,
+and as I should also have thought) are about two centuries later than the
+towers.
+
+The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thirteenth, rather than
+of the end of the eleventh, century. The first exterior view of the west
+front, and of the towers, is extremely interesting; from the grey and clear
+tint, as well as excellent quality, of the stone, which, according to Huet,
+was brought partly from Vaucelle and partly from Allemagne.[107] One of the
+corner abutments of one of the towers has fallen down; and a great portion
+of what remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeed
+greatly in need of reparation. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,[108] has
+made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation, as if it were intended for
+a wooden model to work by: having all the stiffness and precision of an
+erection of forty-eight hours standing only. The central tower is of very
+stunted dimensions, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of an
+extinguisher. This, in fact, was the consequence of the devastations of the
+Calvinists; who absolutely sapped the foundation of the tower, with the
+hope of overwhelming the whole choir in ruin--but a part only of their
+malignant object was accomplished. The component parts of the eastern
+extremity are strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good
+commanding exterior view can be obtained from the _place_, or confined
+square, opposite the towers.
+
+But let us return to the west-front; and opening the unfastened green-baize
+covered door, enter softly and silently into the venerable interior--sacred
+even to the feelings of Englishmen! Of this interior, very much is changed
+from its original character. The side aisles retain their flattened arched
+roofs and pillars; and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters--or
+alto-rilievo-like pillars--running from bottom to top, which are to be seen
+in the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long pillars are
+comparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance, within a side
+chapel, is the burial place of MATILDA, the wife of the Conqueror. The
+tombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly of the time. Generally
+speaking, the interior is cold, and dull of effect. The side chapels, of
+which not fewer than sixteen encircle the choir, have the discordant
+accompaniments of Grecian balustrades to separate them from the choir and
+nave. There is a good number of _Confessionals_ within them; and at one of
+these I saw, for the first time, _two_ women, kneeling, in the act of
+confession to the _same priest_. "C'est un peu fort," observed our guide in
+an under-voice, and with a humourous expression of countenance! Meanwhile
+Mr. Lewis, who was in an opposite direction in the cathedral, was
+exercising his pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is hung the huge
+portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which Ducarel has
+published an engraving, on the supposition of its being the portrait of
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. But nothing can be more ridiculous than such a
+conclusion. In the first place, the picture itself, which is a palpable
+copy, cannot be older than a century; and, in the second place, were it an
+original performance, it could not be older than the time of Francis
+I:--when, in fact, it purports to have been executed--as a faithful copy of
+the figure of King William, seen by the Cardinals in 1522, who were seized
+with a sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at that
+time! The costume of the oil-painting is evidently that of the period of
+our Henry VIII.; and to suppose that the body of William--even had it
+remained in so surprisingly perfect a state as Ducarel intimates, after an
+interment of upwards of four hundred years--could have presented such a
+costume, when, from Ducarel's own statement, another whole-length
+representation of the same person is _totally different_--and more
+decidedly of the character of William's time--is really quite a reproach to
+any antiquary who plumes himself upon the possession even of common sense.
+
+In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, the body of the
+Conqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument erected to his
+memory of the most elaborate and costly description. Nothing now remains
+but a flat black marble slab, with a short inscription, of quite a recent
+date.
+
+In the present state of the abbey,[109] and even in that of Ducarel's time,
+there is, and was, a great dearth of sepulchral monuments. Indeed I know
+not whether you need be detained another minute within the interior; except
+it be, to add your share of admiration to that which has been long and
+justly bestowed on the huge organ[110] at the west end of the nave, which
+is considered to be the finest in all France. But Normandy abounds in
+church decorations of this kind. Leaving therefore this venerable pile,
+endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations of
+ideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard, and observe the ruins of
+a pretty extensive pile of building, which is called by Ducarel the _Palace
+of the Conqueror_. But in this supposed palace, in its _present_ state,
+most assuredly William I. _never_ resided: for it is clearly not older than
+the thirteenth century: if so ancient. Ducarel saw a great deal more than
+is now to be seen; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into what
+appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped by an old woman, who
+assured me "qu'il n'y avoit rien que du chauffage." It was true enough: the
+whole of the untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returning
+to the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right, you
+descend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins, called _St.
+Etienne le Vieil_. In Ducarel's time this church is described as entire. On
+the exterior of one of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure,
+about four English feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of a
+man on horseback--mutilated--trampling upon another man at its feet.
+
+It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But, would you believe it?
+this figure also, in the opinion of Bourgueville,[111] was intended for
+William the the Conqueror--representing his triumphant entry into Caen! As
+an object of art, even in its present mutilated state, it is highly
+interesting; and I rejoice that Mr. Cotman is likely to preserve the little
+that remains from the hazard of destruction by the fidelity of his own copy
+of it.[112] It is quite clear that, close to the figure, you discover
+traces of style which are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The
+interior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is converted "horresco
+referens" into a receptacle for ... carriages for hire. Not far from this
+spot stood formerly a magnificent CROSS--demolished during the memorable
+visit of the Calvinists.[113] In the way to the abbey of the Trinity, quite
+at the opposite or eastern extremity of the town, you necessarily pass
+along the _Rue St. Pierre_, and enter into the market-place, affording an
+opening before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the church
+of _St. Pierre de Darnetal_ of which I now speak, and from which the name
+of the street is derived. The tower and spire are of the most admirable
+form and workmanship.[114] The extreme delicacy and picturesque effect of
+the stone tiles, with which the spire is covered, as well as the lightness
+and imposing consequence given to the tower upon which the spire rests, are
+of a character peculiar to itself. The whole has a charming effect. But
+severe criticism compels one to admit that the body of the church is
+defective in fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only florid
+Gothic, but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The parts
+are capriciously put together: filled, and even crammed, with ornaments of
+apparently all ages: concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced in the
+reign of Francis I. The buttresses are, however, generally, lofty and airy.
+In the midst of this complicated and corrupt style of architecture, the
+tower and spire rise like a structure built by preternatural hands; and I
+am not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal beauty
+and effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in our own
+country. Look at this building, from any part of the town, and you must
+acknowledge that it has the strongest claims to unqualified
+admiration.[115] The body of the church is of very considerable dimensions.
+I entered it on a Sunday morning, about eleven o'clock, and found it quite
+filled with a large congregation, in which the _cauchoise_, as usual,
+appeared like a broad white mass--from one end to the other. The priests
+were in procession. One of the most magnificent organs imaginable was in
+full intonation, with every stop opened; the voices of the congregation
+were lustily exercised; and the offices of religion were carried on in a
+manner which would seem to indicate a warm sense of devotion among the
+worshippers. There is a tolerably good set of modern paintings (the best
+which I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the _Life of Christ_,
+in the side chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of _Our
+Lady's Chapel_, is horribly bedaubed and over-loaded with the most
+tasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever witnessed!
+The great bell of this church, which has an uncommonly deep and fine tone,
+is for ever
+
+  Swinging slow with solemn roar!
+
+that is to say:--it is tolling from five in the morning till ten at night;
+so incessantly, in one side-chapel or another, are these offices carried on
+within this maternal parish church.[116]
+
+I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a church in the
+_Rue St. Jean_,[117] which is one of the principal streets in the town: and
+which is terminated by the _Place des Cazernes_, flanked by the river Orne.
+In this street I was asked, by a bookseller, two pounds two shillings, for
+a thumbed and cropt copy of the _Elzevir-Heinsius Horace_ of 1629; but with
+which demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have the most
+extravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here and at Rouen.
+
+You must now attend me to the most interesting public building, perhaps all
+things considered, which is to be seen at Caen. I mean, the _Abbey of the
+Holy Trinity_, or L'ABBAYE AUX DAMES.[118] This abbey was founded by the
+wife of the Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St.
+Stephen. Ducarel's description of it, which I have just seen in a copy of
+the _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, in a bookseller's shop, is sufficiently
+meagre. His plates are also sufficiently miserable: but things are
+strangely altered since his time. The nave of the church is occupied by a
+manufactory for making cordage, or twine; and upwards of a hundred lads are
+now busied in their _flaxen_ occupations, where formerly the nun knelt
+before the cross, or was occupied in auricular confession. The entrance at
+the western extremity is entirely stopped up: but the exterior gives
+manifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St. Stephen.
+The upper part of the towers are palpably of the fifteenth, or rather of
+the early part of the sixteenth century. I had no opportunity of judging of
+the neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, as
+noticed by Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of the
+building by the manufacturing children; but I saw some very ancient
+tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removed
+from the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the sides of the
+north transept. The nave is entirely _walled up_ from the transepts, but
+the choir is fortunately preserved; and a more perfect and interesting
+specimen of its kind, of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen
+in Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel,
+are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the
+upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked along
+the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a more adventurous
+spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me: for, on quitting
+daylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the central
+tower--to enjoy from hence a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relate
+it. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading
+absolutely to ... nothing: or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened to
+be foremost in ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckily
+close behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot to
+a supposed higher or succeeding step ... but there was _none_. A depth of
+eighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I was
+about to lose my balance--and roared out "Arretez--tenez!" The least
+balance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these
+critical occasions: when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling me
+in consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... and my LIFE ... were equally
+saved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE AUX DAMES at
+Caen.
+
+I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude with
+those of the western extremity, and from thence surveyed the town, as well
+as the drizzling rain would permit. I saw enough however to convince me
+that the site of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly
+upon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition
+to mount to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that most
+commendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to visit the
+CRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more laudable spirit of
+enterprise than did my old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from the
+summit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. I
+descended by the same (somewhat intricate) route, and I took especial care
+to avoid all "temporary wooden stair-cases." The crypt, beneath the choir,
+is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir itself. Within
+an old, very old, stone coffin--at the further circular end--are the
+pulverized remains of one of the earliest Abbesses.[119] I gazed around
+with mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw myself back into
+centuries past, fancying that the shrouded figure of MATILDA herself glided
+by, with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm! Having
+gratified my curiosity by a careful survey of this subterraneous abode, I
+revisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the large building,
+now a manufactory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery. The
+revolution has swept away every human being in the character of a nun; but
+the director of the manufactory shewed me, with great civility, some relics
+of old crosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c. which had been taken from
+the crypt I had recently visited. These relics savoured of considerable
+antiquity. Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they _must_ have
+belonged to Matilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption nor
+the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed indeed to have undergone
+half a dozen decompositions. Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society,
+after having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country, should ever
+think of perpetuating the principal ecclesiastical edifices of Normandy, by
+means of the _Art of Engraving_, let them begin their labours with the
+ABBAYE AUX DAMES at Caen.
+
+The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical buildings
+in this place. There are other public edifices, but comparatively of a
+modern date. And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I to
+neglect giving you an account, however superficial, of the remains of an
+apparently CASTELLATED BUILDING, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames--or
+rather to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the town by the way
+we came. As far as I can discover, this appears to have escaped
+Ducarel.[120] It is doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upper
+part of the walls, there is a series of basso-relievo heads,
+medallion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for portraits. They are
+assuredly not older than the reign of Francis I. and may be even as late as
+that of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with a
+ferocious-looking man on each side of it, either saluting the woman, or
+whispering in her ear. But the most striking objects are the stone figures
+of two men, upon a circular tower, of which one is in the act of shooting
+an arrow, and the other as if holding a drawn sword. I got admittance
+within the building; and ascending the tower, found that these were only
+the _trunks_ of figures,--and removable at pleasure. I could only stroke
+their beards and shake their bodies a little, which was of course done with
+impunity. Whether the present be the _original_ place of their destination
+may be very doubtful. The Abbe de la Rue, with whom I discoursed upon the
+subject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures are of the time
+of Louis XI.: which makes them a little more ancient than the other
+ornaments of the building. As to the interior, I could gather nothing with
+certainty of the original character of the place from the present remains.
+The earth is piled up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered with
+grass: and an orchard, and rich pasture land (where I saw several women
+milking cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the
+_Caennois_ are rather proud of this building.
+
+Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its erection,
+and "putting the colophon" to this disquisition respecting the principal
+public buildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you how faithfully I am
+always yours.
+
+
+[96] ["Besides her numerous public schools, Caen possesses two Schools of
+    Art--one for design, the other for Architecture and Ornament--where
+    the Students are _gratuitously_ instructed." LICQUET.]
+
+[97] It is called _Vin Huet_--and is the last wine which a traveller
+    will be disposed to ask for. When Henry IV. passed through the town,
+    he could not conceive why such excellent grapes should produce such
+    execrable wine. I owe this intelligence to Mons. LICQUET.
+
+[98] Somewhere about 150 English acres.
+
+[99] [I had before said _twenty_--but Mons. Licquet observes, I might
+    have said--thirty thousand pairs of hands.]
+
+[100] Caen was celebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. Consult
+    BOURGUEVILLE: _Antiquitez de Caen_; 1588, 8vo. p. 26.
+
+[101] The fauxbourgs of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy
+    contrast to what they appear to have done in the middle of the XVIth
+    century. Consult the pleasantly penned description of these fauxbourgs
+    by the first topographer of the place, BOURGUEVILLE: in his
+    _Antiquitez de Caen_, pp. 5, 6, 26.
+
+    It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority, that
+    long after the time even of the publication just referred to, the town
+    of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walls--upon the tops
+    of which three men could walk a-breast: and from thence the
+    inhabitants could discern, across those large and beautiful gardens,
+    "the vessels sailing in the river Orne, and unloading their cargoes by
+    the sides of walls." It appears indeed to have been a sort of lounge,
+    or fashionable promenade--by means of various ladders for the purposes
+    of ascent and descent.
+
+    Among the old prints and bird's-eye views of Caen, which I saw in the
+    collection of DE BOZE at the Royal Library at Paris, there is one
+    accompanied by three pages of printed description, which begins with
+    the lines of Guillaume Breton "Villa potens, opulenta, situ spatiosa
+    decora." See First Edition, vol. i. p. 274. Evelyn, in 1644, thus
+    describes the town of Caen. "The whole town is handsomely built of
+    that excellent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was
+    lead to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at
+    the entrance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke,
+    with well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches,
+    freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c. _Life and
+    Writings of J. Evelyn_, 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 52.
+
+[102] See the OPPOSITE PLATE.
+
+[103] It was a similar depot in Ducarel's time.
+
+[104] The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by
+    M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with
+    a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the
+    obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he
+    frankly allowed that "Monsieur l'Anglois se conduisait bien."
+
+[105] [The affair is now scarcely remembered; and the successful champion
+    died a natural death within about three years afterwards. Mons.
+    Licquet slenderly doubts portions of this tragical tale: but I have
+    good reason to believe that it is not an exaggerated one. As to what
+    occurred _after_ the death of one of the combatants, I am
+    unwilling to revive unpleasant sensations by its recapitulation.]
+
+[106] Bourgueville seems bitterly to lament the substitution of wells for
+    fountains. He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his own estimation,
+    whereby this desirable object might be effected: and then retorts upon
+    his townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at
+    _Lisieux, Falaise and Vire_--of which the inhabitants "n'ont rien
+    espargne pour auoir ceste decoration et commodite en leurs
+    villes."--spiritedly adding--"si j'estois encore en auctorite, j'y
+    ferois mon pouuoir, et ie y offre de mes biens." p. 17.
+
+[107] [I am most prompt to plead guilty to a species of _Hippopotamos_
+    error, in having here translated the word _Allemagne_ into
+    GERMANY! Now, although this translation, per se, be correct, yet, as
+    applicable to the text, it is most incorrect--as the _Allemagne_
+    in question happens to be a _Parish in the neighbourhood of
+    Caen_! My translator, in turn, treats me somewhat tenderly when he
+    designates this as "une meprise fort singuliere." vol. ii. p. 25.]
+
+[108] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his
+    work; affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an
+    idea of one of the most disproportioned, ugly buildings imaginable.
+    Mr. Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front,
+    and of the elevation of compartments of the Nave; The former is at
+    once faithful and magnificent; but the lower part wants characteristic
+    markings.
+
+[109] It should be noticed that, "besides the immense benefactions which
+    William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death,
+    presented thereto the _crown_ which he used to wear at all high
+    festivals, together with his _sceptre and rod_: a cup set with
+    precious stones; his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia: as
+    also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his back."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 51. note. The story of the breaking
+    open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Conqueror's
+    remains, is told by Bourgueville--who was an _eye witness_ of these
+    depredations, and who tried to "soften the obdurate hearts" of the
+    pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that,
+    in his time "the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious
+    stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and
+    destroyed--and that the seats, chairs, &c. and all other wooden
+    materials were consumed by fire," p.171. Huet observes that a "Dom
+    Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie," religious of St.
+    Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year
+    1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huet's
+    time." _Origines de Caen_; p.248. The revolution was still more
+    terrible than the Calvinistic fury;--for no traces of the monument are
+    now to be seen.
+
+[110] The west window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ
+    built close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This
+    organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &c. _Ducarel_,
+    p.57. He then goes on to observe, that "amongst the plate preserved in
+    the treasury of this church, is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten
+    inches in diameter, gilt, and inlaid with antique medals. Tradition
+    assures us, that it was on this salver, that king William the
+    conqueror placed the foundation charter of the abbey when he presented
+    it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church. The edges of
+    this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a
+    little turned up, and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal;
+    on the obverse whereof is this legend, [Greek: Ausander Aukonos] but
+    it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other
+    medals, forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite
+    through; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the
+    medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation."
+
+[111] Yet Bourgueville's description of the group, as it appeared in his
+    time, trips up the heels of his own conjecture. He says that there
+    were, besides the two figures above mentioned, "vn autre homme et
+    femme a genoux, comme s'ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur
+    enfant, qui est vne antiquite de grand remarque dont je ne puis donner
+    autre certitude de l'histoire." _Antiquitez de Caen_; p.39. Now,
+    it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in
+    existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend
+    Mr. Douce--that it is a representation of the received story, in the
+    middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who demanded
+    justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who had just
+    mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition, replied,
+    that "he would listen to her on his return." The woman said, "What, if
+    you never return?" "My successor will satisfy you"--he replied--"But
+    how will that benefit you,"--resumed the widow. The Emperor then
+    descended from his horse, and enquiring into the woman's case, caused
+    justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say that the murderer
+    was the Emperor's own son.
+
+[112] [Since the publication of the first edition of this work, the figure
+    in question has appeared from the pencil and burin of Mr. Cotman; of
+    which the only fault, as it strikes me, is, that the surface is too
+    rough--or the effect too sketchy.]
+
+[113] Bourgueville has minutely described it in his _Antiquities_; and
+    his description is copied in the preceding edition of this work.
+
+[114] Bourgueville is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account
+    of the tower, &c. He says that he had "seen towers at Paris, Rouen,
+    Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres,
+    Angiers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those of St. Stephen
+    at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a
+    pyramidal form--but THIS TOWER OT ST. PETER exceeded all the others,
+    as well in its height, as in its curious form of construction."
+    _Antiq. de Caen_; p.36. He regrets, however, that the _name of
+    the architect_ has not descended to us. [It is right to correct an
+    error, in the preceding edition, which has been committed on the
+    authority of Ducarel. That Antiquary supposed the tower and spire to
+    have been built by the generosity of one NICHOLAS, an ENGLISHMAN."
+    Mons. Licquet has, I think, reclaimed the true author of such
+    munificence, as his _own_ countryman.--NICOLAS LANGLOIS:--whose
+    name thus occurs in his epitaph, preserved by Bourgueville.
+
+      _Le Vendredi, devant tout droict_
+      _La Saint Cler que le temps n'est froit,_
+      _Trespassa_ NICOLLE L'ANGLOIS,
+      _L'an Mil Trois Cens et Dix Sept._]
+        &c. &c.
+
+    Reverting, to old BOURGUEVILLE, I cannot take leave of him without
+    expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and information which
+    his unostentatious octavo volume--entitled _Les Recherches et
+    Antiquitez de la Ville et Universite de Caen, &c_. (a Caen, 1588,
+    8vo.) has afforded me.
+
+    The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the most
+    critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote. His
+    plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely simple. Nor
+    does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of
+    topography are invaluable--as preserving the memory of things and of
+    objects, which, but for such record, had perished without the hope or
+    chance of recovery.
+
+[115] [Ten years have elapsed since this sentence was written, and the
+    experience gained in those years only confirms the truth (according to
+    the conception of the author) of the above assertion. Such a tower and
+    spire, if found in England, must be looked for in Salisbury Cathedral;
+    but though this latter be much loftier, it is stiff, cold, and formal,
+    comparatively with that of which the text makes mention.]
+
+[116] [For six months in the year--that is to say, from Lady Day till
+    Michaelmas Day--this great Bell tolls, at a quarter before ten, as a
+    curfew.]
+
+[117] A plate of it may be found in the publication of Mr. Dawson Turner,
+    and of Mr. Cotman.
+
+[118] Of this building Mr. Cotman has published the West front, east end,
+    exterior and interior; great arches under the tower; crypt; east side
+    of south transept; elevation of the North side of the choir: elevation
+    of the window; South side exterior; view down the nave, N.W.
+    direction.
+
+[119] Bourgueville describes the havoc which took place within this abbey
+    at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the
+    church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 172,) they proceeded to
+    commit similar ravages here:--"sans auoir respect ni reuerence a la
+    Dame Abbesse, ni a la religion et douceur feminine des Dames
+    Religieuses."--"plusieurs des officiers de la maison s'y trouucrent,
+    vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le coeur de ces
+    plus que brutaux;" p. 174.
+
+[120] Unless it be what he calls "the FORT OF THE HOLY TRINITY of Caen; in
+    which was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose
+    annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king
+    of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried on
+    against Charles the Dauphin, afterwards Charles V., &c."
+    _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 67. This castle, or the building once
+    flanked by the walls above described, was twice taken by the English;
+    once in 1346, when they made an immense booty, and loaded their ships
+    with the gold and silver vessels found therein; and the second time in
+    1417, when they established themselves as masters of the place for 33
+    years. _Annuaire du Calvados_; 1803-4; p. 63.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBE DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIME LAIR AND LAMOUROUX.
+MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M. MOYSANT, PUBLIC
+LIBRARIAN. COURTS OF JUSTICE.
+
+
+From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words, prepare to
+receive some account of _Society_,--and of things appertaining to the
+formation of the intellectual character. Caen can boast of a public
+Literary Society, and of the publication of its memoirs.[121] But these
+"memoirs" consist at present of only six volumes, and are in our own
+country extremely rare.
+
+[Illustration: ABBE DE LA RUE AEtat. LXXIV.]
+
+Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation throw a sort of
+lustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that stands upon _quite_ so lofty
+an eminence as the ABBE DE LA RUE; at this time occupied in publishing a
+_History of Caen_.[122] As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his
+countrymen; while his essays upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_ and the
+_Anglo-Norman Poets_, published in our _Archaeologia_, prove that there are
+few, even among ourselves, who could have treated those interesting
+subjects with more dexterity or better success. The Abbe is, in short, the
+great archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a Visit
+at Lagouelle's. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth year. His
+figure is rather stout, and above the mean height: his complexion is
+healthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful quantity of waving white hair
+adds much to the expression of his countenance.[123] He enquired kindly
+after our mutual friend Mr. Douce; of whose talents and character he spoke
+in a manner which did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, as
+to--_not_ dining with me; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine in
+taverns. He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my further
+progress through Normandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I could
+have wished. He rarely visits Caen, although a great portion of his library
+is kept there: his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of
+a nobleman to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man, of his
+venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the evening
+of life, (after braving such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of
+the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and the
+respect of the virtuous and the wise.
+
+The study of _Natural History_ obtains pretty generally at Caen; indeed
+they have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expressly
+taught--and of which MONSIEUR LAMOUROUX[124] is at once the chief ornament
+and instructor. This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turner
+furnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffected
+manners, and a countenance particularly open and winning. He is "a very
+dragon" in his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking
+some baskets of seaweed, yet reeking with the briny moisture; and which he
+handled and separated and classed with equal eagerness and facility. The
+library of M. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library: filled with
+sensible, solid, and instructive books--and if he had only accepted a
+repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle's, to
+meet his learned brother PIERRE-AIME LAIR, nothing would have been wanting
+to the completion of his character!
+
+You have just heard the name of Pierre-Aime Lair. Prepare to receive a
+sketch of the character to which that name appertains. This gentleman is
+not only the life and soul of the society--but of the very town--in which
+he moves. I walked with him, arm in arm, more than once, through very many
+streets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic of
+architectural antiquity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person
+out of three, in our progress. "Je vous salue"--"vous voila avec Monsieur
+l'Anglois"--"bon jour,"--"comment ca va-t-il:"--The activity of Pierre-Aime
+Lair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of
+disposition. He is all kindness. Call when you will, and ask for what you
+please, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems to rise
+(and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untoward
+propensities. With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tune
+her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into every
+abode however gloomy, and every society however dull.
+
+But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not only is
+Pierre-Aime Lair a lover and collector of tangible antiquities--such as
+glazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, and fractured capitals--all seen
+in "long array", up the windings of his staircase--but he is a critic, and
+a patron of the _literary_ antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told you
+in my last despatch) is the birth-place of MALHERBE; and, in the character
+now under discussion, it has found a perpetuator of the name and merits of
+the father of French verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary put forth
+a project for a general subscription "for a medal in honour of
+_Malherbe_,"[125] which project was in due time rewarded by the names of
+_fifteen hundred_ efficient subscribers, at five francs a piece. The
+proposal was doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the French; and
+luckily the execution of it surpassed the expectations of the subscribers.
+The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect execution. Not only, however,
+did this head of Malherbe succeed--but a feeling was expressed that it
+might be followed up by a _Series of Heads_ of the most illustrious, of
+both sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough for
+Lair: though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the _latter_
+design also. Accordingly, there has appeared, periodically, a set of heads
+of this description, in bronze or other metal, as the purchaser
+pleases--which has reflected infinite credit not only on the name of the
+projector of this scheme, but on the present state of the fine arts in
+France.
+
+Yet another word about Pierre-Aime Lair. He is not so inexorable as M.
+Lamouroux: for he _has_ dined with me, and quaffed the burgundy and
+champagne of Lagouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better wines
+cannot be quaffed; and Malherbe and the Duke of Wellington formed the
+alternate subjects of discourse and praise. In return, I have dined with
+our guest. He had prepared an abundant dinner, and a very select society:
+but although there was no wand, as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm
+away the dishes, &c. or to interdict the tasting of them, yet it was
+scarcely possible to partake of one in four... so unmercifully were they
+steeped and buried in _butter!_ The principal topic of discourse, were the
+merits of the poets of the respective countries of France and England, from
+which I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among the
+greatest favourites with the French. The white brandy of Pierre-Aime Lair,
+introduced after dinner, is hardly to be described for its strength and
+pungency. "Vous n'avez rien comme ca chez vous?" "Je le crois bien, (I
+replied) c'est la liquefaction meme du feu." We broke up before eight; each
+retiring to his respective avocations--but did not dine till five. I
+borrowed, however, "an hour or twain" of the evening, after the departure
+of the company, to enjoy the more particular conversation of our host; and
+the more I saw and conversed with him; the greater was my gratification. At
+parting, he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of all sizes, of his own
+publication; and I ventured to predict to him that he would terminate his
+multifarious labours by settling into consolidated BIBLIOMANIACISM. "On
+peut faire pire!"--was his reply--on shaking hands with me, and telling me
+he should certainly meet me again at _Bayeux_, in my progress through
+Normandy.[126] My acquaintance with this amiable man seemed to be my
+security from insults in the streets.
+
+Education here commences early, and with incitements as alluring as at
+Rouen. POISSON in the _Rue Froide_ is the principal, and indeed a very
+excellent, printer; but BONNESERRE, in the same street, has put forth a
+vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in a brochure of eight pages,
+of which I send you the first, and which you may compare with the specimen
+transmitted in a former letter.[127]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Chapolin, in the _Rue-Froide-Rue,_ has recently published a most curious
+little manual, in the cursive secretary gothic, entitled "_La Civilite
+honnete pour les enfans qui commence par la maniere d'apprendre et bien
+lire, prononcer et ecrire_." I call it "curious," because the very first
+initial letter of the text, representing C, introduces us to the
+_bizarrerie_ of the early part of the XVIth century in treatises of a
+similar character. Take this first letter, with a specimen also of those to
+which it appertains.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse on that
+account) precepts of the same period; such as we see in the various
+versions of the "De Moribus Juvenum," of which the "_Contenance de la
+Table,"_ in the French language, is probably the most popular. It is
+executed throughout in the same small and smudged gothic character; and, as
+I conceive; can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not be
+dismissed without respectful mention of the typographical talents of LE
+ROY; who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmer
+and Bensley of the place.
+
+But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap popular
+pieces, there is no man who "drives such a trade" as PICARD-GUERIN,
+_Imprimeur en taille-douce et Fabricant d'Images_," who lives in the _Rue
+des Teinturiers,_ no.175. I paid him more than one visit; as, from, his
+"fabrication," issue the thousands and tens of thousands of broadsides,
+chap-books, &c. &c. which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from _one_ to
+_three_ sous, according as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood or
+upon copper:--Saints, martyrs, and scriptural subjects; or heroes,
+chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and Louis XVIII.
+le Desire--are among the taille-douces specified in the imprints. Madame
+did me the honour of shewing me some of her choicest treasures, as her
+husband was from home. Up stairs was a parcel of mirthful boys and girls,
+with painting brushes in their hands, and saucers of various colours before
+them. Upon enquiry, I found that they received four sous per dozen, for
+colouring; but I will not take upon me to say that they were over or under
+paid--of so _equivocal_ a character were their performances. Only I hoped
+to be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreign
+country, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the most mean and
+minute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what was put before me, and
+made a selection sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil.
+Among the serious subjects were _two_ to which I paid particular attention.
+The one was a metrical cantique of the _Prodigal Son,_ with six wood cuts
+above the text, exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative. I
+will cut out and send you the _second_ of these six: in which you will
+clearly perceive the military turn which seems to prevail throughout France
+in things the most minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and
+leave his father's house, in the cloke and cock'd hat of a French officer.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The _fourth_ of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled, "_L'Enfant
+Prodigue est chasse par ses maitresses."_ The expulsion consists in the
+women driving him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is very
+probable, however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some of
+our own representations of the same subject; if, instead of examining (as
+in Pope's time)
+
+  ... the walls of Bedlam and Soho,
+
+we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from strings upon
+the wall at Hyde Park Corner.
+
+Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to describe to
+you, can rarely, in all probability, be the production of a London artist.
+It is called "_Notre-Dame de la bonne Delivrande_," and is necessarily
+confined to the religion of the country. You have here, first of all, a
+reduced form of the original: probably about one-third--and it is the more
+appropriate, as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of the
+dressing out of the figures of the VIRGIN and CHILD which are meant to
+grace the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in
+Normandy. Is it possible that one spark of devotion can be kindled by the
+contemplation of an object so grotesque and so absurd in the House of God?
+
+[Illustration: SAINTE MARIE, MERE DE DIEU, priez pour nous]
+
+To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in the
+original, would be a waste of time; but below are two good figures to the
+right, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is the
+following _accredited_ consoling piece of intelligence:
+
+    L'AN 830, _des Barbares descendent dans les Gaules, massacrent les
+    Fideles, profanent et brulent les Eglises. Raoul, Duc de Normandie, se
+    joint a eux; l'image de la Ste. Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les
+    ruines de l'ancienne chapelle jusqu'au regne de Henri I. l'an 1331.
+    Beaudouin, Baron de Douvres, averti par son berger qu'un mouton de son
+    troupeau fouillait toujours dans le meme endroit, fit ouvrir la terre,
+    et trouva ce tresor cache depuis tant d'annees. Il fit porter
+    processionnellement cette sainte image dans l'Eglise de Douvres: mais
+    Dieu permit qu'elle fut transportee par un Ange dans l'endroit de la
+    chapelle ou elle est maintenant reveree. C'est dans cette chapelle
+    que, par l'intercession de Marie, les pecheurs recoivent leur
+    conversion, les affliges leur consolation, les infirmes la sante, les
+    captifs leur delivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer echappent aux
+    tempetes et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'operent journellement
+    sur les pieux Fideles_.
+
+A word now for BIBLIOPOLISTS--including _Bouquinistes_, or venders of "old
+and second-hand books." The very morning following my arrival in Caen, I
+walked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast, and in the way
+thither stopped at a book stall, to the right,--and purchased some black
+letter folios: among which the French version of _Caesar's Commentaries,_
+printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It is
+reserved for Lord Spencer's library;[128] at a price which, freight and
+duty included, cannot reach the sum of twelve shillings of our money. Of
+venders of second hand and old books, the elder and younger MANOURY take a
+decisive lead. The former lives in the _Rue Froide_; the latter in the _Rue
+Notre Dame._ The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousand
+volumes, but I much doubt whether his stock amount to one half of that
+number. He unhesitatingly asked me two _louis d'or_ for a copy of the
+_Vaudevires_ of OLIVIER BASSELIN, which is a modern, but privately printed,
+volume; and of which I hope to give you some amusing particulars by and by.
+He also told me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of _Fust's Bible of
+1462,_ with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d'or. I only know that, if I had been
+librarian, he should not have had one half the money.
+
+Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative terms: for be it
+known that the son is "age de soixante ans." Over his door you read an
+ancient inscription, thus:
+
+    "_Battu, perce, lie, Je veux changer de main_."
+
+This implies either (like Aladdin's old lamps for new) that he wishes to
+give new books in exchange for old ones, or that he can smarten up old ones
+by binding, or otherwise, and give them a renovated appearance. But the
+solution is immaterial: the inscription being as above. The interior of the
+younger Manoury's book repository almost appalled me. His front shop, and a
+corridor communicating with the back part of the house, are rank with
+moisture; and his books are consequently rotting apace. Upon my making as
+pitiable a statement as I was able of this melancholy state of things--and
+pleading with all my energies against the inevitable destruction which
+threatened the dear books--the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not one
+scintillation of sympathy. He was absolutely indifferent to the whole
+concern. In the back parlour, almost impervious to day-light, his daughter,
+and a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevated
+cauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner. I
+hurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies for the
+intrusion; but was told that none were necessary--that I might go where,
+and stay as long, as I pleased--and that any explanation would be given to
+my interrogatories in the way of business. I expressed my obligations for
+such civility; and gaining an upper room, by the help of a chair, made a
+survey of its contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as
+the only rational or desirable volume--half rotted with moisture--_Belon's
+Marine Fishes_, 1551, 4to; and placing six francs (the price demanded) upon
+the table, hurried back, through this sable and dismal territory, with a
+sort of precipitancy amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive of
+a very extraordinary effect--was the cheerfulness and _gaiete de coeur_ of
+these females, in the midst of this region of darkness and desolation.
+Manoury told me that the Revolution had deprived him of the opportunity of
+having the finest bookselling stock in France! His own carelessness and
+utter apathy are likely to prove yet more destructive enemies.
+
+But let us touch a more "spirit-stirring" chord in the book theme. Let us
+leave the _Bouquiniste_ for the PUBLIC LIBRARY: and I invite you most
+earnestly to accompany me thither, and to hear matters of especial import.
+This library occupies the upper part of a fine large stone building,
+devoted to the public offices of government. The plan of the library is
+exceedingly striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred and
+thirty-four, by eighty, French feet; and is supposed, apparently with
+justice, to contain 20,000 volumes. It is proportionably wide and lofty. M.
+HEBERT is the present chief librarian, having succeeded the late M.
+Moysant, his uncle. Among the more eminent benefactors and Bibliomaniacs,
+attached to this library, the name of FRANCOIS MARTIN is singularly
+conspicuous. He was, from all accounts, and especially from the information
+of M. Hebert, one of the most raving of book-madmen: but he displayed,
+withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality towards his favourite
+establishment at Caen, which could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was
+also a man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literary
+propensities--a love of the LITERATURE OF HIS COUNTRY. He amassed a very
+large collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during the
+Revolution; but the public library became possessed of a great number of
+them. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which are now seen, is
+the following printed inscription: "_Franciscus Martin, Doctor Theologus
+Parisiensis, comparavit. Oretur pro co_." He was head of the convent of
+Cordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting was not
+always that which a public magistrate would call _legitimate_. He sought
+books every where; and when he could not _buy_ them, or obtain them by fair
+means, he would _steal_ them, and carry them home in the sleeves of his
+gown! He flourished about a century ago; and, with very few exceptions, all
+the best conditioned books in the library belonged to this magisterial
+book-robber. Among them I noted down with singular satisfaction the Aldine
+edition of _Stephanus de Urbibus_, 1502, folio--in its old vellum binding:
+seemly to the eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the
+_Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis_, printed by _Amerbach, at
+Basil_, in a glorious gothic character, 1510, folio, escape my especial
+notice--also the same Bibliomaniac's beautiful copy of the _Mentz Herbal_,
+of 1484, in 4to.
+
+But the obliquities of Martin assume a less questionable aspect, when we
+contemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but left behind
+ready for publication. It is thus entitled: _Athenae Normannorum veteres ac
+recentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi e Normannia, &c._ It consists
+of one volume, in MS., having the authority of government, to publish it,
+prefixed. There is a short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pages
+of Latin verses beginning thus:
+
+    _In Auctorum Normannicorum Syllabum.
+      Prolusio metrica.
+    En Syllabus prodit palam
+    Contextus arte sedula
+    Ex litteratae Neustriae
+    Auctoribus celebribus._
+      &c. &c.
+
+Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,[129] was the
+famous SAMUEL BOCHART; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic of
+distinguished celebrity. He was a native of Rouen, and his books (many of
+them replete with valuable ms. notes) are among the chief treasures of the
+public library, here. Indeed there is a distinct catalogue of them, and the
+funds left by their illustrious owner form the principal support of the
+library establishment. Bochart's portrait, with those of many other
+benefactors to the library, adorns the walls; suspended above the books:
+affording a very agreeable coup-d'oeil. Indeed the principal division of
+the library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect, is
+worthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an empire. The
+kindness of M. Hebert, and of his assistant, rendered my frequent
+sojournings therein yet more delectable. The portrait of his uncle, M.
+MOYSANT, is among the ornaments of the chief room. Though Moysant was large
+of stature, his lungs were feeble, and his constitution was delicate. At
+the age of nineteen, he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric in
+the college of Lisieux. He then went to Paris, and studied under Beau and
+Batteux; when, applying himself more particularly to the profession of
+physic, he returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap of
+Doctor of medicine; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for the
+successful exercise of his profession. He had cured a patient, after
+painful and laborious attention, of a very serious illness; but his patient
+chose to take liberties too soon with his convalescent state. He was
+imprudent: had a relapse; and was hurried to his grave. Moysant took it
+seriously to heart, and gave up his business in precipitancy and disgust.
+In fact, he was of too sanguine and irritable a temperament for the display
+of that cool, cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young
+physicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the honours or
+the wealth of the _Halfords_ and _Matons_ of the day! Our Moysant returned
+to the study of his beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the
+Society of the Jesuits was suppressed; and he was called by the King, in
+1763, to fill the chair of Rhetoric in one of the finest establishments of
+that body at Caen. He afterwards successively became perpetual Secretary of
+the Academy of Sciences, and Vice-President of the Society of Agriculture.
+He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts, and was
+selected to pronounce the public oration upon the marriage of the
+unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie Antoinette. He was now a marked and
+distinguished public character. The situation of PUBLIC LIBRARIAN was only
+wanting to render his reputation complete, and _that_ he instantly obtained
+upon the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united that
+of instructing the English (who were always in the habit of visiting Caen,)
+in the French language; and he obtained, in return, from some of his adult
+pupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old England.
+
+The Revolution now came on: when, like many of his respectable brethren, he
+hailed it at first as the harbinger of national reformation and prosperity.
+But he had soon reason to find that he had been deceived. However, in the
+fervour of the moment, and upon the suppression of the monastic and other
+public libraries, he received a very wide and unqualified commission to
+search all the libraries in the department of _Calvados_, and to bring home
+to Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this mission
+with truly public spirited ideas: resolving (says his nephew) to do for
+Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for England--and a _Monasticum
+Neustriacum_ was the commendable object of his ambition. He promised much,
+and perhaps did more than he promised. His curious collection (exclusively
+of the cart-loads of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his
+countrymen; but the guillotine was now the order of the day--when Moysant
+"resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility the plan of
+his work, as that nation always attached importance to the preservation of
+the monuments, or literary materials, of the middle ages."--He knew
+(continues the nephew) how proud the English were of their descent from the
+Norman nobles, and it was only to put them in possession of the means of
+preserving the unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly
+came over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants;
+their return was interdicted; and our bibliomaniac learnt, with
+heart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the national
+property in France. He was therefore to live by his wits; having spiritedly
+declined all offer of assistance from the English government. In this
+dilemma he published a work entitled "_Bibliotheque des Ecrivains Francais,
+ou choix des meilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leurs
+ouvrages_,"--a collection, which was formed with judgment, and which was
+attended with complete success. The first edition was in four octavo
+volumes, in 1800; the second, in six volumes 1803; a third edition, I
+think, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the English and French
+languages. It was during his stay amongst us that he was deservedly
+admitted a member of the Society of Antiquaries; but he returned to France
+in 1802, before the appearance of the second edition of his _Bibliotheque_;
+when, hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between the
+book-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter place--and
+again perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen) upon the chair
+destined for the PUBLIC LIBRARIAN! It was to give order, method, and
+freedom of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the dissolution of
+the monastic libraries had caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysant
+and his colleagues now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as it
+was unintermitting. But the health of our generalissimo, which had been
+impaired during his residence in England, began to give way beneath such a
+pressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to prolong his
+life till towards the close of the year 1813: when he had the satisfaction
+of viewing his folios, quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged in
+regular succession, and fair array; when his work was honestly done; and
+when future visitors had only to stretch forth their hands and gather the
+fruit which he had placed within their reach. His death (we are told)[130]
+was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had consoled him in his latter
+moments; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfect
+composure for the breathing of his last sigh! Let the name of MOYSANT be
+mentioned with the bibliomaniacal honours which, are doubtless its due!...
+
+From Librarians, revert we to books: to the books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of
+Caen. The oldest printed volume contained in it, and which had been bound
+with a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript also, is
+Numeister's impression of _Aretinus de Bella adversus Gothos_, 1470, folio;
+the first book from the press of the printer. I undeceived M. Hebert, who
+had supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and the
+book is bound in boards; "all proper." The oldest _Latin Bible_ they
+possess, is of the date of 1485; but there is preserved one volume of
+Sweynheym and Pannartz's impression of _De Lyra's Commentary upon the
+Bible_, of the date of 1471-2, which luckily contains the list of books
+printed by those printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to Pope
+Sixtus IV. The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the _Juvenal_ of 1474,
+with the _Commentary of Calderinus_, printed at Rome; unless a dateless
+impression of _Lucan_, in the earliest type of Gering, with the verses
+placed at a considerable distance from each other, claim chronological
+precedence. There is also a _Valerius Maximus_ of 1475, by Caesaris and
+Stol, but without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning.
+Of the same date is Gering's impression of the _Legenda Sanctorum_; and
+among the Fifteeners I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of _Jehan du
+Pre's_ printing (with a device used by him never before seen by me,) of an
+edition of _La Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, in its original binding. I
+collected, from the written catalogue, that they had only FORTY-FIVE works
+printed in the FIFTEENTH CENTURY; and of these, none were of first-rate
+quality.
+
+Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beautiful penmanship of a work,
+in three folio volumes, of the middle of the sixteenth century, entitled;
+_Divertissemens touchant le faict de la guerre, extraits des livres de
+Polybe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan, Machiavel, et autres bons autheurs."_
+It has no illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A _Breviary of the
+Church Service of Lisieux_, of the fifteenth century, has some pretty but
+common illuminations. It is not however free from injury. Of more intrinsic
+worth is a MS. entitled _Du Costentin_, (a district not far from Caen,)
+with the following prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. "Ces memoires
+sont de M. Toustaint de Billy, cure du Mesnil au-parc, qui avoit travaille
+toute sa vie a l'histoire du Cotentin. Ils sont rares et m'ont ete accordes
+par M. Jourdan, Notaire, auquel ils appartenoient. Le p. (Pere) le Long et
+Mons. Teriet de fontette ne les out pas connu. Moysantz." It is a small
+folio, in a neat hand-writing. Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and
+printed leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, is
+entitled _Le Moreri des Normans, par Joseph Andrie Guiat de Rouen:_ on the
+reverse of the title, we read, "_Supplement au Dictionnaire de Moreri pour
+ce qui concerne la province de Normandie, et ses illustres_."  A short
+preface follows; then an ode "aux Grands Hommes de Normandie." It is
+executed in the manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order. The
+first volume extends to the letter I, and is illustrated with scraps from
+newspapers, and a few portraits. It is written pretty fully in double
+columns. The portrait and biography of _Bouzard_ form an admirable specimen
+of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes to Z. The third
+volume is entitled "_Les trois Siecles palinodiques, ou Histoire Generale
+des Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe, &c._--by the same hand, with an equal
+quantity of matter. It is right that such labours should be noticed, for
+the sake of all future BLISS-like editors of provincial literature. There
+is another similar work, in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to _Coutance_.
+
+Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period, it may be
+right to inform you that the treasures of this Library suffered materially
+from the commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed interpreters of
+scripture destroyed every thing in the shape of ornament or elegance
+attached to book-covers; and piles of volumes, however sacred, or
+unexceptionable on the score of good morals, were consigned to the fury of
+the flames. Of the remaining volumes which I saw, take the following very
+rapid sketch. Of _Hours_, or _Church Services_, there is a prodigiously
+fine copy of an edition printed by _Vostre_, in 4to., upon paper, without
+date. It is in the original ornamented cover, or binding, with a forest of
+rough edges to the leaves--and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever
+saw. Compared with this, how inferior, in every respect is a cropt copy of
+_Kerver's_ impression of a similar work, printed upon vellum! This latter
+is indeed a very indifferent book; but the rough usage it has met with is
+the sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased with a fair, sound
+copy of the _Speculum Stultorum_, in 4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and
+pentameter verses, without date. Nor did I examine without interest a rare
+little volume entitled "_Les Origines de quelques Coutumes anciennes, et de
+plusieurs facons de parler triviales. Avec un vieux Manuscrit en vers,
+touchant l'Origine des Chevaliers Bannerets_; printed at Caen in 1672,
+12mo.: a curious little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of _Walton's
+Polyglot_, with an excellent impression of the head; and a large paper copy
+of _Stephen's Greek Glossary_; in old vellum binding, with a great number
+of ms. notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper _Photius_ of 1654, folio.
+But among their LARGE PAPERS, few volumes tower with greater magnificence
+than do the three folios of _La Sainte Bible_, printed by the Elzevirs at
+Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures; of the stateliest
+dimensions and most attractive forms. They also pretend that their large
+paper copy of the first edition of _Huet's Praeparatio Evangelica_, in
+folio, is unique. Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Library
+himself. The _Basil Eustathius_ of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as glorious
+a copy as is Mr. Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542.[131] It is in
+its pristine membranaceous attire--the vellum lapping over the fore-edges,
+in the manner of Mr. Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle,--most
+comfortable to behold! There is a fine large paper copy of _Montaigne's
+Essays_, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of the author.
+It is bound in red morocco, and considered by M. Hebert a most rare and
+desirable book. Indeed I was told that one Collector in particular was
+exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw a fine copy of the folio edition of
+_Ronsard_, printed in 1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copy
+of the well known _Liber Nanceidos_, from Bochart's library, with a few ms.
+notes by Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a French metrical
+version of the works of _Virgil, by Robert and Anthony Chevaliers d'Agneaux
+freres, de Vire, en Normandie_; published at Paris in 1582, in elegant
+italic type; considered rare. The same translators published a version of
+Horace; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of a
+certain work (in one of my late letters) called _Les Vaudevires d'Olivier
+Basselin_. They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to., large
+paper; and of which size only ten copies are said to be in existence. The
+entire title is "_Les Vaudevires Poesies du XVme. siecle, par Olivier
+Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour l'explication de
+quelques anciens Mots: Vire, 1811_." 8vo. There are copies upon pink paper,
+of which this is one--and which was in fact presented to the Library by the
+Editors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing, in india ink,
+representing the old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with Basselin
+seated at a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting his
+verses "a pleine gorge." This Basselin appears in short to have been the
+French DRUNKEN BARNABY of his day.
+
+"What! (say you:) "not _one_ single specimen from the library of your
+favourite DIANE DE POICTIERS? Can this be possible?"--No more of
+interrogatory, I beseech you: but listen attentively and gratefully to the
+intelligence which you are about to receive--and fancy not, if you have any
+respect for my taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane de
+Poictiers. On looking sharply about you, within this library, there will be
+found a magnificent copy of the _Commentaries of Chrysostom upon the
+Epistles of St. Paul_, printed by _Stephanus et Fratres a Sabio, at
+Verona_, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by much and by far the
+finest Greek work which I ever saw from the _Sabii_ Press.[132] No wonder
+Colbert jumped with avidity to obtain such a copy of it: for, bating that
+it is "un peu rogne," the condition and colour are quite enchanting. And
+then for the binding!--which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had
+the good sense and good taste to leave _untouched_. The first and second
+volumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the centre, and the
+half moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the arabesque ornaments, or
+surrounding border is in gilt. The edges are gilt, stamped; flush with the
+fore edges of the binding. In the centre of the sides of the binding, is a
+large H, with a fleur de lis at top: the top and bottom borders presenting
+the usual D and H, united, of which you may take a peep in the
+_Bibliographical Decameron._ The third volume is in dark blue leather, with
+the same side ornaments; and the title of the work, as with the preceding
+volumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, as
+before; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume, stamped at bottom
+and top with an H, surmounted by a crown. The sides of the binding are also
+fuller and richer than in the preceding volumes. This magnificent copy was
+given to the Library by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way.
+
+Another specimen, if you please, from the library of our favourite Diana.
+It is rather of a singular character: consisting of a French version of
+that once extremely popular work (originally published in the Latin
+language) called the _Cosmography of Sebastian Munster._ The edition is of
+the date of 1556, in folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is
+yet curious. It contains two portraits of Henry the Second ("HENRICVS II.
+GALLIARVM REX INVICTISS. PP.") and four of Holofernes ("OLOFARNE.") on each
+side of the binding. In the centre of the sides we recognise the lunar
+ornaments of Diane de Poictiers; but on the back, are five portraits of
+her, in gilt, each within the bands--and, like all the other ornaments,
+much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of Henry.
+There are also on the sides two pretty medallions of a winged figure
+blowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four horses: there
+are also small fleur de lis scattered between the ornaments of the sides of
+the binding. The date of the medallion seems to be 1553. The copy is
+cruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes it
+the more surprising that such pains should have been taken with its
+bibliopegistic embellishments. Upon the whole, this copy, for the sake of
+its ornaments, is vehemently desirable.
+
+And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M. Hebert, and
+bid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Caen. Indeed I am fully disposed to
+bid farewell to every thing else in the same town: not however without
+being conscious that very much, both of what I have, and of what I have
+not, seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the intellectual
+appetites of travellers. What I have seen, has been indeed but summarily,
+and even superficially, described; but I have done my best; and was fearful
+of exciting ennui by a more parish-register-like description. For the
+service performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to my
+Rouen details--except that there is here an agreeable PROTESTANT CHURCH, of
+which M. MARTIN ROLLIN, is the Pastor. He has just published a "_Memoire
+Historique sur l'Etat Eclesiastique des Protestans Francois depuis Francois
+Ler jusqu'a Louis XVIII_:" in a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The task
+was equally delicate and difficult of execution; but having read it, I am
+free to confess that M. Rollin has done his work very neatly and very
+cleverly. I went in company with Mrs. and Miss I---- to hear the author
+preach; for he is a young man (about thirty) who draws his congregation as
+much from his talents as a preacher, as from his moral worth as an
+individual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies and gentlemen
+taking the sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe,
+according to the Geneva persuasion; but there was something so comfortable,
+and to me so cheering, in the avowed doctrine of Protestantism, that I
+accompanied my friends with alacrity to the spot. Many English were
+present; for M. Rollin is deservedly a favourite with our countrymen. The
+church, however, was scarcely half filled. The interior is the most
+awkwardly adapted imaginable to the purposes either of reading or of
+preaching: for it consists of two aisles at right angles with each other.
+The desk and pulpit are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; so
+that the voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapes
+the preacher. After a very long, and a very tediously sung psalm, M. Rollin
+commenced his discourse. He is an extemporaneous preacher. His voice is
+sweet and clear, rather than sonorous and impressive; and he is perhaps,
+occasionally, too metaphorical in his composition. For the first time I
+heard the words "_Oh Dieu!_" pronounced with great effect: but the sermon
+was made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin was
+frequently ingenious; logical, and convincing; and his address to the young
+communicants, towards the close of his discourse, was impressive and
+efficient. The young people were deeply touched by his powerful appeal, and
+I believe each countenance was suffused with tears. He guarded them against
+the dangers and temptations of that world upon which they were about to
+enter, by setting before them the consolations of the religion which they
+had professed, in a manner which indicated that he had really their
+interests and happiness at heart.
+
+A word only about COURTS OF JUSTICE. "A smack of the whip" will tingle in
+my ears through life;[133] and I shall always attend "_Nisi Prius_"
+exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning to
+the _Place de Justice_--which is well situated, in an airy and respectable
+neighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, pretty
+nearly in the English fashion; walking quickly to and fro with their
+clients, in the open air before the hall; and could not help contrasting
+the quick eye and unconcerned expression of countenance of the former, with
+the simple look and yet earnest action of the latter. I entered the Hall,
+and, to my astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteen
+people were present, I approached the bench; and what, think you, were the
+intellectual objects upon which my eye alighted? Three Judges ... all fast
+asleep! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding: one was literally
+addressing _the bench_ ... and the remaining two were talking to their
+clients in the most unconcerned manner imaginable. The entire effect, on my
+mind, was ridiculous in the extreme. Far be it from me, however, to
+designate the foregoing as a generally true picture of the administration
+of Justice at Caen. I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so long
+celebrated for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to exhibit
+proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned of old. I
+am willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike somniferous; and
+that if the acuteness of our GIFFORDS, and the rhetoric of our DENMANS,
+sometimes instruct and enliven the audience, there will be found Judges to
+argue like GIBBS and to decide like SCOTT.[134] Farewell.
+
+
+[121] _Memoires de l'Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques
+    Manoury, 1757, 4 vols. crown 8vo. Rapport generale sur les travaux de
+    l'Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la ville de Caen,
+    jusqu'au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P.F.T. Delariviere, Secretaire. A
+    Caen, chez Chalopin_. An. 1811-15. 2 vols. on different paper, with
+    different types, and provokingly of a larger form than its precursor.
+
+[122] [On consulting the Addenda of the preceding edition, it will be seen
+    that this work appeared in the year 1820, under the title of _Essais
+    Historiques sur la Ville de Caen et son Arondissement_, in 2 small
+    octavo volumes. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates
+    of relics of sculpture, and of titles with armorial bearings, this
+    work is entirely divested of ornament. There are some useful
+    historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and
+    the public archives; but a HISTORY of CAEN is yet a desideratum.]
+
+[123] [By the favour of our common friend Mr. Douce, I have obtained
+    permission to enrich these pages with the PORTRAIT of this
+    distinguished Archaeologist, from an original Drawing in the
+    possession of the same friend. See the OPPOSITE PLATE.]
+
+[124] He has recently (1816) published an octavo volume entitled
+     "_Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligenes Flexibles, vulgairement
+    nommes Zoophytes. Par J.V.F. Lamouroux_. From one of his Epistles,
+    I subjoin a fac-simile of his autograph.
+
+    [Illustration: Lamouroux]
+
+[125] The medallic project here alluded to is one which does both the
+    projector, and the arts of France, infinite honour; and I sincerely
+    wish that some second SIMON may rise up among ourselves to emulate,
+    and if possible to surpass, the performances of GATTEAUX and AUDRIEU.
+    The former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of
+    Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Bonaparte medals. [Has
+    my friend Mr. Hawkins, of the Museum, abandoned all thoughts of his
+    magnificent project connected with such a NATIONAL WORK?]
+
+[126] See post--under the running title Bayeux.
+
+[127] See page 172 ante.
+
+[128] It is described in the 2d vol. of the AEDES ALTHORPIANAE; forming the
+    Supplement to the BIBLIOTHECA SPENCERIANA: see page 94.
+
+[129] Goube, in his _Histoire du Duche de Normandie_, 1815, 8vo. has
+    devoted upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies;
+    vol. iii. p. 295. But in _Huet's Origines de la Ville de Caen;_
+    p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and satisfactory
+    details.
+
+[130] I am furnished with the above particulars from a _Notice
+    Historique_ of Moysant.
+
+[131] [A copy of this Roman Edition of 1542, of equal purity and amplitude,
+    is in the library of the Rev. Mr Hawtrey of Eton College: obtained of
+    Messrs. Payne and Foss.]
+
+[132] When I was at Paris in the year 1819, I strove hard to obtain from
+    Messrs. Debure the copy of this work, UPON VELLUM, which they had
+    purchased at the sale of the Macarthy Library. But it was destined for
+    the Royal Library, and is described in the _Cat. des Livres Imp. sur
+    Velin_, vol. i. p. 263.
+
+[133] [Twenty-eight years have passed away since I kept my terms at
+    Lincoln's Inn with a view of being called to THE BAR; and at this
+    moment I have a perfect recollection of the countenances and manner of
+    Messrs. Bearcroft, Erskine, and Mingay,--the pitted champions of the
+    King's Bench--whom I was in the repeated habit of attending within
+    that bustling and ever agitated arena. Their wit, their repartee--the
+    broad humour of Mingay, and the lightning-like quickness of Erskine,
+    with the more caustic and authoritative dicta of Bearcroft--delighted
+    and instructed me by turns. In the year 1797 I published, in one large
+    chart, an _Analysis of the first volume of Blackstone's
+    Commentaries_--called THE RIGHTS OF PERSONS. It was dedicated to
+    Mr. (afterwards Lord) Erskine; and published, as will be easily
+    conceived, with more zeal than discretion. I got out of the scrape by
+    selling the copper plate for 50 shillings, after having given 40
+    guineas for the engraving of the Analysis. Some fifty copies of the
+    work were sold, and 250 were struck off. Where the surplus have lain,
+    and rotted, I cannot pretend to conjecture: but I know it to be a VERY
+    RARE production!]
+
+[134] [So in the preceding Edition. He who writes notes on his own
+    performances after a lapse of ten years, will generally have something
+    to add, and something to correct. Of the above names, the FIRST was
+    afterwards attached to the _Master of the Rolls_, and to a
+    _Peerage_: with the intervening honour of having been _Chief
+    Justice of the Common Pleas_. My admiration of this rapid elevation
+    in an honourable profession will not be called singular; for, after an
+    acquaintance of twenty years with Lord Gifford, I can honestly say,
+    that, while his reputation as a Lawyer, and his advancement in his
+    profession, were only what his friends predicted, his character as a
+    MAN continued the same:--kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and
+    generous. He died, 'ere he had attained his 48th year, in 1826.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE
+CATHEDRAL.
+
+_Bayeux, May 16_, 1818.
+
+
+Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at this place.
+The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places of worship in
+Normandy)[135] has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with a
+careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my
+heart beat with an increased action; and although this town be even dreary,
+as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it which, from associations
+of ideas, can never fail to afford a lively interest to a British
+antiquary.
+
+The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a half. The
+country, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionally
+gently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. Many pretty little
+churches, with delicate spires, peeped out to the right and left during the
+journey; but the first view of the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the others
+out of my recollection. I was conveyed to the _Hotel de Luxembourg_, the
+best inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Mine
+hostess is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the art
+and craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow or
+disappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding year,
+been occupied in making a fac-simile of the "famous tapestry" for our
+Society of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine hostess had been acquainted with
+that gentleman: "Monsieur," "je le connois bien; c'est un brave homme: il
+demeura tout pres: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables!" I will not
+disguise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman[136] pleased me "right
+well"--though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and to
+me somewhat _coarse_) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead of
+"vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, "une
+bouteille du vin de Beaune"--"Ah! ca," (replied the lively landlady,) "vous
+le trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n'y a pas du vin comme le vin de
+Beaune." Bespeaking my dinner, I strolled towards the cathedral.
+
+There is, in fact, no proper approach to this interesting edifice. The
+western end is suffocated with houses. Here stands the post-office; and
+with the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part of the owner, I had
+permission to examine, with my own hands, within doors, every letter--under
+the expectation that there were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed.
+But you must come with me to the cathedral: and of course we must enter
+together at the western front. There are five porticos: the central one
+being rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small.
+Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments; but the
+Calvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth
+century, have contrived to render their present aspect mutilated and
+repulsive in the extreme. On entering, I was struck with the two large
+transverse Norman arches which bestride the area, or square, for the bases
+of the two towers. It is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in the
+whole building. The interior disappointed me. It is plain, solid, and
+divested of ornament. A very large wooden crucifix is placed over the
+screen of the choir, which has an effect--of its kind: but the monuments,
+and mural ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamented
+arches, on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars,
+have rather an imposing effect: above them are Gothic ornaments of a later
+period, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. Let me now suppose that
+the dinner is over, and the "vin de Beaune" approved of--and that on a
+second visit, immediately afterwards, there is both time and inclination
+for a leisurely survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisle
+to the left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy green
+tint indicative of premature decay--arising from the lead (of that part of
+the roof,) having been stript for the purpose of making bullets during the
+Revolution. The extreme length of the interior is about 320 English feet,
+by 76 high, and the same number of feet in width. The transepts are about
+125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers, to the very top of the
+spires, are about 250 English feet in height.
+
+One of the most curious objects in the Cathedral, is the CRYPT; of which,
+singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till the year 1412. The
+circumstance of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut in
+the Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just above the southern
+entrance:
+
+  _En lan mil quatre cens et douze
+  Tiers iour d'Auril que pluye arrouse
+  Les biens de la terre, la journee
+  Que la Pasques fut celebree
+  Noble homme et Reverend Pere
+  Jehan de Boissey, de'la Mere
+  Eglise de Bayeux Pasteur
+  Rendi l'ame a son Createur
+  Et lors enfoissant la place
+  Devant la grand Autel de grace
+  Trova l'on la basse Chapelle
+  Dont il n'avoit ete nouvelle
+  Ou il est mis en sepulture
+  Dieu ueuille avoir son ame en cure. Amen_.
+
+It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular juncture.
+The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand _Ordination_. Before
+I had quitted my bed, I heard the mellow and measured notes of human
+voices; and starting up, I saw an almost interminable procession of
+priests, deacons, &c., walking singly behind each other, in two lines,
+leaving a considerable space between them. They walked bareheaded,
+chanting, with a book in their hands; and bent their course towards the
+cathedral. I dressed quickly; and, dispatching my breakfast with equal
+promptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western doors, thrown
+wide open, I shall never forget the effect produced by the crimson and blue
+draperies of the Norman women:--a great number of whom were clustered, in
+groups, upon the top of the screen, about the huge wooden
+crucifix;--witnessing the office of ordination going on below, in the
+choir. They seemed to be suspended in the air; and considering the piece of
+sculpture around which they appeared to gather themselves--with the
+elevation of the screen itself--it was a combination of objects upon which
+the pencil might have been exercised with the happiest possible result. An
+ordination in a foreign country, and especially one upon such an apparently
+extensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be slighted; and
+accordingly I determined upon making the most of the spectacle before me.
+Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt, I observed that some
+religious ceremony was going on there. The northern grate, or entrance,
+being open, I descended a flight of steps, and quickly became an inmate of
+this subterraneous abode. The first object that struck me was, the warm
+glow of day light which darted upon the broad pink cross of the surplice of
+an officiating priest: a candle was burning upon the altar, on each side of
+him: another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant; and
+each, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed ... to the admiration of some
+few half dozen casual yet attentive visitors--while the full sonorous
+chant, from the voices of upwards of one hundred and fifty priests and
+deacons, from the choir above, gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to the
+mysterious gloom below.
+
+I now ascended; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the ceremony
+through the intercolumniations of the choir: my diffidence, or rather
+apprehension of refusal, having withheld me from striving to gain
+admittance within the body. But my situation was a singularly good one:
+opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld this vast clerical congregation at
+times kneeling, or standing, or sitting: partially, or wholly: while the
+swell of their voices, accompanied by the full intonations of the organ,
+and the yet more penetrating notes of the _serpent_, seemed to breathe more
+than earthly solemnity around. The ceremony had now continued full two
+hours; when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it, and while the
+young candidates for ordination were prostrate before the high altar (the
+diapason stop of the organ, as at Dieppe,[137] sending forth the softest
+notes) the venerable Bishop placed the glittering mitre (apparently covered
+with gold gauze) upon his head, and with a large gilt crosier in his right
+hand, descended, with a measured and majestic step, from the floor of the
+altar, and proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of his
+office. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands, were
+touched with the holy oil--and thus became consecrated. On rising, each
+received a small piece of bread between the thumb and forefinger, and the
+middle and third fingers; their hands being pressed together--and, still
+with closed eyes, they retired behind the high altar, where an officiating
+priest made use of the bread to rub off the holy oil. The Bishop is an
+elderly man, about three score and ten; he has the usual sallow tint of his
+countrymen, but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black and
+overhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive. His whole mien has the
+indication of a well-bred and well-educated gentleman. When he descended
+with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high altar, me-thought I
+saw some of the venerable forms of our WYKEHAMS and WAYNEFLETES of
+old--commanding the respect, and receiving the homage, of a grateful
+congregation! At the very moment my mind was deeply occupied by the effects
+produced from this magnificent spectacle, I strolled into _Our Lady's
+Chapel_, behind the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousness
+into surprise--bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotely
+situated chapel, stands the IMAGE OF THE VIRGIN with the infant Jesus in
+her arms. This is the usual chief ornament of Our Lady's Chapel. But what
+drapery for the mother of the sacred child!--stiff, starch,
+rectangularly-folded, white muslin, stuck about with diverse artificial
+flowers--like unto a shew figure in Brook Green Fair! This ridiculous and
+most disgusting costume began more particularly at Caudebec. Why is it
+persevered in? Why is it endured? The French have a quick sensibility, and
+a lively apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts of
+sculpture and painting ... but the terms "joli," "gentil," and "propre,"
+are made use of, like charity, to "cover a multitude of sins" ... or
+aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this chapel,
+but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet affords proof of its
+pristine splendour. It is covered with gold and colours. Two or three
+supplicants were kneeling before the crucifix, and appeared to be so
+absorbed in their devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding
+object. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten the name) to whom
+the little chapel was dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting
+than the general voice of "praise and thanksgiving" with which the choir of
+the cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must know that
+fourscore candidates were ordained: that there are sixty clergy attached to
+the cathedral;[138] and that upwards of four hundred thousand souls are
+under the spiritual cognizance of the BISHOP OF BAYEUX. The treasures of
+the Cathedral were once excessive,[139] and the episcopal stipend
+proportionably large: but, of late years, things are sadly changed. The
+Calvinists, in the sixteenth century, began the work of havoc and
+destruction; and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth, as usual, put the
+finish to these devastations. At present, from a very respectable source of
+information, I learn that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed
+700_l_. per annum of our own money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral
+without commending, in strong terms of admiration, the lofty flying
+buttresses of the exterior of the nave. The perpendicular portions are
+crowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the semi-arch
+takes its spring; and are in much more elegant taste than any other part of
+the building.
+
+Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL PALACE. Upon
+this palace the old writers dearly loved to expatiate. There is now however
+nothing but a good large comfortable family mansion; sufficient for the
+purposes of such hospitality and entertainment as the episcopal revenues
+will afford. I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence.
+In other words, my friend Pierre-Aime Lair having promised to take his last
+adieu of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met him
+agreeably to appointment at the palace; but his host, with a strong corps
+of visitors, having just sate down to dinner--it was only one o'clock--I
+bade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow--to whom
+he had indeed mentioned my name. Our farewell was undoubtedly warm and
+sincere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kindness towards me without
+any possible motive of self interest; and as he lifted up his right hand,
+exclaiming "adieu, pour toujours!" I will not dissemble that I was sensibly
+affected by the touching manner in which it was uttered ... and PIERRE AIME
+LAIR shall always claim from me the warmest wishes for his prosperity and
+happiness.[140] I hurried back through the court-yard--at the risk of
+losing a limb from the ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained)
+mastiff--and without returning the salute of the porter, shut the gate
+violently, and departed. For five minutes, pacing the south side of the
+cathedral, I was lost in a variety of painful sensations. How was I to see
+the LIBRARY?--where could I obtain a glimpse of the TAPESTRY?--and now,
+that Pierre Aime Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he should
+quit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my friend, and smooth
+my access to the more curious and coveted objects of antiquity?
+
+Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflections, a tall figure, clad
+in a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner approached and
+addressed me. "Your name, Sir, is D----?" "At your service, Sir, that is my
+name." "You were yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet's, purchasing
+books?" "I was, Sir." "It seems you are very fond of old books, and
+especially of those in the French and Latin languages?" "I am fond of old
+books generally; but I now seek more particularly those in your
+language--and have been delighted with an illuminated, and apparently
+coeval, MS. of the poetry of your famous OLIVIER BASSELIN, which..." "You
+saw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet's. It belonged to a common friend of us
+both. He thinks it worth..." "He asks _ten louis d'or_ for it, and he shall
+have them with all my heart." "Sir, I know he will never part with it even
+for that large sum." I smiled, as he pronounced the word "large." "Do me
+the honour, Sir, of visiting my obscure dwelling, in the country--a short
+league from hence. My abode is humble: in the midst of an orchard, which my
+father planted: but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and should
+like to _read_ double the number I _possess_." I thanked the stranger for
+his polite attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily.... "This
+evening, Sir, if you please." "With all my heart, this very evening. But
+tell me, Sir, how can I obtain a sight of the CHAPTER LIBRARY, and of the
+famous TAPESTRY?" "Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) for I am watched in
+this place. You shall see both--but must not say that Monsieur ---- was
+your adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect you in
+the evening." We took leave; and I returned hastily to the inn, to tell my
+adventures to my companion.
+
+There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little anecdote, that I
+would not for the world add a syllable of explanation. Leaving you,
+therefore, in full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please,
+consider me as usual, Yours.
+
+
+[135] [Mons. Licquet supposes the crypt and the arcades of the nave to be
+    of the latter end of the eleventh century,--built by Odo, Bishop of
+    Bayeux, and Brother of William the Conqueror; and that the other
+    portions were of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. I
+    have very great doubts indeed of any portion being of a date even so
+    early as 1170.]
+
+[136] [Another demonstration of the fickleness and changeableness of all
+    mundane affairs. Mr. Stothard, after a successful execution of his
+    great task, has ceased to be among us. His widow published his life,
+    with an account of his labours, in a quarto volume in 1823. Mr.
+    Stothard's _Monumental Effigies_, now on the eve of completion,
+    is a work which will carry his name down to the latest posterity, as
+    one of the most interesting, tasteful, and accurate of antiquarian
+    productions. See a subsequent note.]
+
+[137] See page 12, ante.
+
+[138] ["That was true, when M. Dibdin wrote his account; now, the number
+    must be reduced one half." LICQUET, vol. ii. p. 121.]
+
+[139] Cette eglise ... etoit sans contredit une des plus riches de France
+en
+    vases d'or, d'argent, et de pierreries; en reliques et en ornemens. Le
+    proces-verbal qui avoit ete dresse de toutes ses richesses, en 1476,
+    contient un detail qui va presque a l'infini." Bezieres, _Hist.
+    Sommaire_, p. 51.
+
+[140] [But ONE letter has passed between us since this separation. That
+    letter, however, only served to cement the friendliness of our
+    feelings towards each other. M. Pierre Aime Lair had heard of the
+    manner in which his name had been introduced into these pages, and
+    wished a copy of the work to be deposited in the public library at
+    Caen. Whether it be so deposited, I have never learnt. In 1827, this
+    amiable man visited England; and I saw him only during the time of an
+    ordinary morning visit. His stay was necessarily short, and his
+    residence was remote. I returned his visit--but he was away. There are
+    few things in life more gratifying than the conviction of living in
+    the grateful remembrance of the wise and the good; and THAT
+    gratification it is doubtless my happiness to enjoy--as far as relates
+    to Mons. PIERRE AIME LAIR!]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THE
+BISHOP. THE CHAPTER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY. TRADE AND
+MANUFACTURE.
+
+
+Well, my good friend! the stranger has been visited: his library inspected:
+his services accepted: and his character partly unfolded. To this I must
+add, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I mentioned slightly in my last)
+that both the Chapter LIBRARY and the famous TAPESTRY have been explored
+and examined in a manner, I trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardly
+know what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last epistle from
+Bayeux; which will be semi-bibliomaniacal and semi-archaeological: and sit
+down, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and my
+memory supply.
+
+The last was almost a purely _ecclesiastical_ dispatch: as I generally
+first take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a cathedral. Now then
+for THE STRANGER! ... for it would be cruel to prolong the agony of
+expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself, almost exclusively, with
+his pencil during the whole morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to
+_St. Loup_. After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained in
+the interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them ...
+their blossoms exhaling sweets of the most pungent fragrance. The road ran
+in a straight line from the west front of the cathedral, which, on turning
+round, as we saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, between
+masses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. I
+should tell you, however, that the obliging Monsieur ---- came himself to
+the Hotel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode: for "humble" it
+is in every sense of the word. About two-thirds of the way thither, we
+passed the little church of _St. Loup_: a perfect Gothic toy of the XIIth
+century--with the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can be
+imagined.[141] It has a few slight clustered columns at the four angles,
+but its height and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey.
+We did not enter; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine the
+exterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet _laid_ with the
+heavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of BLORE make of this tiny,
+ancient, interesting edifice! At length we struck off, down a lane slippery
+with moisture--when, opening a large swinging gate--"here (exclaimed our
+guide)--lived and died my father, and here his son hopes to live and die
+also. Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage." It was a retirement of the most
+secluded kind: absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, and
+corn-stacks--for Monsieur ---- hath a fancy for farming as well as for
+reading. The stair-case, though constructed of good hard Norman stone, was
+much worn in the middle from the frequent tread of half a century. It was
+also fatiguingly steep, but luckily it was short. We followed our guide to
+the left, where, passing through one boudoir-like apartment, strewn with
+books and papers, and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called
+_pictures_, we entered a second--of which portions of the wainscoat were
+taken away, to shew the books which were deposited behind. Row after row,
+and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened--and
+there again they were stowed, "thick and threefold." A few small busts, and
+fractured vases, were meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. Of
+the books, it is but justice to say that _rarity_ had been sacrificed to
+_utility_. There were some excellent, choice, critical works; a good deal
+of Latin; some Greek, and a sprinkle of Hebrew--for Monsieur ---- is both a
+general and a sound scholar. On pointing to _Houbigant's Hebrew Bible_, in
+four folio volumes, 1753, "do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs?"
+said he!--"How, Sir," (replied I, in an exstacy of astonishment)--you mean
+to say fourteen _louis_?" "Not at all, Sir. I purchased it at the price
+just mentioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum"--resumed he, in the
+most unsuspecting manner. I then told him, as a sort of balsamic
+consolation, that a late friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on
+giving L12. for a copy by no means superior. "Ah, le bon Dieu!...." was his
+only observation thereupon.
+
+When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had entered, I
+observed with mingled surprise and pleasure, the four prettily executed
+English prints, after the drawings of the present Lady Spencer, called
+"_New Shoes"--"Nice Supper_" &c. Monsieur ---- was pleased at my stopping
+to survey them. "Ce sont la, Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me font
+toujours compagnie:"--nor can you conceive the very soft and gentlemanly
+manner, accompanied by a voice subdued even to sadness of tone, with which
+he made this, and almost every observation. I found, indeed, from the whole
+tenor of his discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state of
+cultivation: and on observing that a great portion of his library was
+THEOLOGICAL, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon which he
+thought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and stooping (for he is
+much taller than myself, ... which he easily may be, methinks I hear you
+add...) "Sir, said he, I am by profession a clergyman ... although now I am
+designated as an _ex-Cure_. I have lived through the Revolution... and may
+have partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope than of
+its atrocities. In the general hue-and-cry for reform, I thought that our
+church was capable of very great improvement, and I think so still. The
+part I took was influenced by conscientious motives, rather than by a blind
+and vehement love of reform;... but it has never been forgiven or
+forgotten. The established clergy of the place do not associate with me;
+but I care not a farthing for that--since I have here (pointing to his
+books) the very best society in the world. It was from the persuasion of
+the clergy having a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I was
+watched ... when walking near the precincts of the cathedral. I had been
+seeking you during the whole of the office of ordination." In reply to my
+question about his _archaeological_ researches, he said he was then
+occupied in writing a disquisition upon the _Bayeux Tapestry_, in which he
+should prove that the Abbe de la Rue was wrong in considering it as a
+performance of the XIIth century. "He is your great antiquarian
+oracle"--observed I. "He has an over-rated reputation"--replied he--"and
+besides, he is too hypothetical." Monsieur ---- promised to send me a copy
+of his dissertation, when printed; and then let our friend N---- be judge
+"in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry." From the open windows of this
+hermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust themselves, I essayed,
+but in vain, to survey the surrounding country; and concluded a visit of
+nearly two hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honest
+feelings. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark this
+amiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the account he had
+given of himself. "Be assured (said he, at parting) that I will see you
+again, and that every facility shall be afforded you in the examination of
+the Bayeux Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member of the
+corporation."
+
+On my way homeward from this ramble, I called again upon M. Pluquet, an
+apothecary by profession, but a book lover and a book vender[142] in his
+heart. The scene was rather singular. Below, was his _Pharmacopeia_; above
+were his bed-room and books; with a broken antique or two, in the
+court-yard, and in the passage leading to it. My first visit had been
+hasty, and only as a whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from a
+visitor, who was present, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of OLIVIER
+BASSELIN, of which I made mention to M.----. The same stranger was again
+present. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a different
+description above--books being called by the ancients, you know, the
+"MEDICINE OF THE SOUL." We mounted into the bed-room. M. Pluquet now opened
+his bibliomaniacal battery upon us. "Gentlemen you see, in this room, all
+the treasures in the world I possess: my wife--my child--my books--my
+antiquities. "Yes, gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic,
+even to madness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter branch
+out; but my means are slender--and my aversion to my _business_ is just
+about in proportion to my fondness for _books_. Examine, gentlemen, and try
+your fortunes."
+
+I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement: but alas! the treasures of
+M. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived,
+with great difficulty, to pick out something of a _recherche_ kind; and
+expended a napoleon upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly
+Greek, printed by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among the
+latter was the _Bellum grammaticale_ of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered at
+my rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos; but had
+he shewn me a good _Verard Romance_ or a _Eustace Froissart_, he would have
+found me as alert in running away with the one as the other. I think he is
+really the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen: certainly as a
+Bibliopolist. We concluded a very animated conversation on all sides: and
+upon the whole, this was one of the most variously and satisfactorily spent
+days of my "voyage bibliographique."
+
+On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. ---- was with me betimes. He
+said he had brought a _basket of books_, from his hermitage, which he had
+left at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come and examine them. In
+the mean while, I had had not only a peep at the Tapestry, but an
+introduction to the mayor, who is chief magistrate for life: a very Caesar
+in miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather a
+priggish sort of a gentleman; observing that "my countryman, Mr.
+STOTHARD,[143] had been already there for six months, upon the same errand,
+and what could I want further?" A short reply served to convince him "that
+it would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he would allow another
+English artist to make a fac-simile of a different description, from a very
+small portion only."[144]
+
+I now called upon the Abbe Fetit, with a view to gain admission to the
+_Chapter Library_, but he was from home--dining with the Bishop. In
+consequence, I went to the palace, and wrote a note in pencil to the Bishop
+at the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair, and the object of my
+visit. The porter observed that they had just sat down to dinner--but would
+I call at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o'clock
+came, and I was punctual to the minute. I was immediately admitted into the
+premises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I was not an
+unexpected visitor--for he neither growled, nor betrayed any symptoms of
+uneasiness. In my way to the audience chamber I saw the crosier and robes
+which the Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony of ordination,
+lying picturesquely upon the table. The audience chamber was rather
+elegant, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerably
+expressive: and while my eyes were fastened upon two figures enacting the
+parts of an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in and
+announced the approach of MONSEIGNEUR l'EVEQUE. I rose in a trice to meet
+him, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop entered
+with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven canons who had
+been dining with him, and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a very
+significant manner. The flush of good cheer was visible in their
+countenances--but for their Diocesan, I must say that he is even more
+interesting on a familiar view. He wore a close purple dress, buttoned down
+the middle from top to bottom. A cross hung upon his breast. His
+countenance had lost nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre,
+and he was gracious even to loquacity. I am willing to hope that I was
+equally prudent and brief in the specification of the object I had in view.
+My request was as promptly as it was courteously granted. "You will excuse
+my attending you in person; (said the Bishop) but I will instantly send for
+the Abbe Fetit, who is our librarian; and who will have nothing to do but
+to wait upon you, and facilitate your researches." He then dispatched a
+messenger for the Abbe Fetit, who quickly arrived with two more trotting
+after him--and enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, which
+were dangling from the Abbe's fingers, I quickened my steps towards the
+Chapter Library.
+
+We were no sooner fairly within the library, than I requested my chief
+conductor to give me a brief outline of its history. "Willingly" he
+replied. "This library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from
+30, to 40,000 volumes, was originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by.
+Look through the window to your left, and you will observe the ruins of
+that building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original collection
+consisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even of living,
+clergymen--for, during the revolution, the clergy, residing both in town
+and country, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house, as a protection
+against private pillage. Well! in that same Chapter-house, the books, thus
+collected, were piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon the
+floor--reaching absolutely, to the cieling ... and for ten long years not a
+creature ventured to introduce a key into the library door. The windows
+also were rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for
+musket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usual
+dexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence; and when
+M. Moysant received the orders of government to examine this library, and
+to take away as many books as he wanted for the public library at Caen...
+he was absolutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presented
+themselves. From the close confinement of every door and window, for ten
+years, the rank and fetid odour which issued, was intolerable. For a full
+fortnight every door and window was left open for ventilation, ere M.
+Moysant could begin his work of selection. He selected about 5000 volumes
+only; but the infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly
+plundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder ... "et enfin
+(concluded he) vous voyez, Monsieur, ce qu'ils nous out laisse." You will
+give me credit for having listened to every word of such a tale.
+
+The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently about
+twenty-five feet square. The Abbe made me observe the XIIIth. volume of the
+_Gallia Christiana_,[145] in boards, remarking that "it was of excessive
+rarity;" but I doubt this. On shewing me the famous volume of _Sanctius_ or
+_Sanches de Matrimonio Sacramentario_, 1607, folio, the Abbe
+observed--"that the author wrote it, standing with his bare feet upon
+marble." I was well pleased with a pretty _illuminated ms. Missal_, in a
+large thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good condition; but
+did not fail to commend right heartily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of
+M. Fetit in having kept concealed the second volume of _Gering's Latin
+Bible_--being the first impression of the sacred text in France--when M.
+Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he pleased.
+No one knows what has become of the first volume, but this second is
+cruelly imperfect--it is otherwise a fair copy. Upon the whole, although it
+is almost a matter of _conscience_, as well as of character, with me, to
+examine every thing in the shape of a library, and especially of a public
+one, yet it must be admitted that the collection under consideration is
+hardly worthy of a second visit: and accordingly I took both a first and a
+final view of it.
+
+From the Chapter I went to the COLLEGE LIBRARY. In other words, there is a
+fine public school, or Lycee, or college, where a great number of lads and
+young men are educated "according to art." The building is extensive and
+well-situated: the play-ground is large and commodious; and there is a
+well-cultivated garden "tempting with forbidden fruit." Into this garden I
+strolled in search of the President of the College, who was not within
+doors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and with several
+young men either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On communicating
+the object of my visit, he granted me an immediate passport to the
+library--"mais, Monsieur, (added he) ce n'est rien: il y avoit autrefois
+_quelque chose_: maintenant, ce n'est qu'un amas de livres tres
+communs." I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the Library;
+who absolutely apologized all the way for the little entertainment I
+should receive. There was indeed little enough. The room may be about
+eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great portion was in vellum
+bindings, in wretched condition. Here was _Jay's Polyglot_, and the
+matrimonial _Sanctius_ again! There was a very respectable sprinkling of
+_Spanish and French Dictionaries_; some few not wholly undesirable
+_Alduses_; and the rare Louvain edition of _Sir Thomas More's Works_,
+printed in 1566, folio.[146] I saw too, with horror-mingled regret, a
+frightfully imperfect copy of the _Service of Bayeux Cathedral_, printed
+in the Gothic letter, UPON VELLUM. But the great curiosity is a small
+brass or bronze crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon the
+mantlepiece; very ancient, from the character of the crown, which
+savours of the latter period of Roman art--and which is the only crown,
+bereft of thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour so
+represented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass. Upon
+the whole, as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old illumination,
+I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely three quarters of
+an hour in the library; but was fully sensible of the politeness of my
+attendant, and of the truth of his prediction, that I should receive
+little entertainment from an examination of the books.
+
+It is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to the famous
+BAYEUX TAPESTRY. Know then, in as few words as possible, that this
+celebrated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the INVASION OF ENGLAND by
+WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and the subsequent death of Harold at the battle of
+Hastings. It measures about 214 English feet in length, by about nineteen
+inches in width; and is supposed to have been worked under the particular
+superintendance and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. It was
+formerly exclusively kept and exhibited in the Cathedral; but it is now
+justly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious relic
+among the archives of the city. There is indeed every reason to consider it
+as one of the most valuable historical monuments which France possesses. It
+has also given rise to a great deal of archaeological discussion.
+Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have come forward successively--but
+more especially the first and last: and Montfaucon in particular has
+favoured the world with copper-plate representations of the whole.
+Montfaucon's plates are generally much too small: and the more enlarged
+ones are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have an
+idea how this piece of tapestry is preserved, or rolled up. You see it
+here, therefore, precisely as it appears after the person who shews it,
+takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy of Harold,
+from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy, is comparatively
+much defaced--that is to say, the stitches are worn away, and little more
+than the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains. It is not far from the
+beginning--and where the colour is fresh, and the stitches are,
+comparatively, preserved--that you observe the PORTRAIT OF HAROLD.[147]
+
+You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so called, are
+threads laid side by side--and bound down at intervals by cross stitches,
+or fastenings--upon rather a fine linen cloth; and that the parts intended
+to represent _flesh_ are left untouched by the needle. I obtained a few
+straggling shreds of the _worsted_ with which it is Worked. The colours are
+generally a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five
+feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more decayed and imperfect
+state than the first portion. But the designer of the subject, whoever he
+was, had an eye throughout to Roman art--as it appeared in its later
+stages. The folds of the draperies, and the proportions of the figures, are
+executed with this feeling.
+
+I must observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal subject,
+there is a running allegorical ornament;[148] of which I will not incur the
+presumption to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constellations,
+and the symbols of agriculture and of rural occupation, form the chief
+subjects of this running ornament. All the inscriptions are executed in
+capital letters of about an inch in length; and upon the whole, whether
+this extraordinary and invaluable relic be of the latter end of the XIth,
+or of the beginning or middle of the XIIth century[149] seems to me a
+matter of rather a secondary consideration. That it is at once _unique_ and
+important, must be considered as a position to be neither doubted nor
+denied, I have learnt, even here, of what importance this tapestry-roll was
+considered in the time of Bonaparte's threatened invasion of our country:
+and that, after displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awaken
+the curiosity and excite the love of conquest among the citizens, it was
+conveyed to one or two _sea-port_ towns, and exhibited upon the stage as a
+most important _materiel_ in dramatic effect.[150]
+
+I think you have now had a pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence; only
+that I ought not to close my despatches without a word or two relating to
+habits, manners, trade, and population. This will scarcely occupy a page.
+The men and women here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump
+countenances, wooden shoes, and the cauchoise--even to exceedingly _tall
+copies_ of the latter! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. The
+chief articles of commerce are _butter_ and _lace_. Of the former, there
+are two sorts: one, delicate and well flavoured, is made during winter and
+spring; put up into small pots, and carried from hence in huge paniers, not
+only to all the immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even to
+Paris--and is shipped in large quantities for the colonies. They have made
+as much as 120,000 lb. weight each season; but _Isigny_, a neighbouring
+village, is rather the chief place for its production. The other sort of
+butter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in fact is made
+throughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, in
+which the huge _alose_ was floating in the pot of the lively cuisiniere at
+Duclair[151]) is also chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicate
+tint, and a fine flavour, it is very much the contrary: and the mode of
+making and transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, and
+packed in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of exportation; and
+not less than 50,000 lb. weight is made each week. The whole profit arising
+from butter has been estimated at not less than two millions of francs: add
+to which, the circulation of specie kept up by the payment of the workmen,
+and the purchase of salt. As to _lace_, there are scarcely fewer than three
+thousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that article.
+
+The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and ingenious.
+In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an active carpenter, who
+had lost the fore finger of his right hand, hard at work--alternately
+whistling and singing--over a pretty piece of ornamental furniture in wood.
+It was the full face of a female, with closely curled hair over the
+forehead, surmounted by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace,
+and platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and the form and
+expression of the countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merry
+fellow had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, compared
+with his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air, perfectly
+characteristic of the taste of his country. The title and song were thus:
+
+  TOU JOURS.
+
+  TOUJOURS, toujours, je te serai fidele;
+  Disait Adolphe a chaque instant du jour;
+  Toujours, toujours je t'aimerai, ma belle,
+  Je veux le dire aux echos d'alentour;
+  Je graverai sur l'ecorce d'un hetre,
+  Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours,
+  Vient me dieter, en me faisant connaitre;
+  Que mon bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. _Bis_.
+
+  Toujours, toujours, lui repondit Adele,
+  Tu regneras dans le fond de mon coeur;
+  Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle,
+  Je promets bien t'aimer avec ardeur;
+  Je pense a toi quand le soleil se leve,
+  J'y pense encore a la tin de son cours;
+  Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je reve,
+  C'est au bonheur de te cherir toujours.
+
+He was a carver on wainscoat wood: and if I would give myself "la peine
+d'entrer," he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I secured a
+favourable reception, by purchasing the little ornament upon which he was
+at work--for a napoleon. I followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a
+soldier in Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the loss of his
+finger) through a variety of intricate passages below and up stairs; and
+saw, above, several excellently well finished pieces of furniture, for
+drawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood:--the outsides of which were
+carved sometimes with clustered roses, surrounding a pair of fond doves; or
+with representations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and the various
+_emblemata_ of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the old
+pieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather's mansion, upon
+taking possession of your estate: and indeed are of themselves no
+despicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from eight to twelve
+napoleons for one of these pieces of massive and elaborately carved
+furniture, some six or seven feet in height.
+
+In all other respects, this is a town deserving of greater antiquarian
+research than appears to have been bestowed upon it; and I cannot help
+thinking that its ancient ecclesiastical history is more interesting than
+is generally imagined. In former days the discipline and influence of its
+See seem to have been felt and acknowledged throughout nearly the whole of
+Normandy. Adieu. In imagination, the spires of COUTANCES CATHEDRAL begin to
+peep in the horizon.
+
+
+[141] [Mr. Cotman has an excellent engraving of it.]
+
+[142] He has since established himself at Paris, near the Luxembourg
+    palace, as a _bookseller_; and it is scarcely three months since
+    I received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no
+    longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart--and that the
+    phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard
+    and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at Bayeux,
+    has purchased books of him at Paris. [The preceding in 1820.]
+
+[143] Mr. Stothard, Jun. See page 221 ante. Mr. S's own account of the
+    tapestry may be seen in the XIXth volume of the Archaeologia. It is
+    brief, perspicuous, and satisfactory. His fac-simile is one half the
+    size of the original; executed with great neatness and fidelity; but
+    probably the touches are a _little_ too artist-like or masterly.
+
+[144] [The facsimile of that portion of the tapestry which is supposed to
+    be a portrait of Harold, and which Mr. Lewis, who travelled with me,
+    executed, is perhaps of its kind, one of the most perfect things
+    extant. In saying this, I only deliver the opinions of very many
+    competent judges. It must however be noticed, that the Society of
+    Antiquaries published the whole series of this exceedingly curious and
+    ancient Representation of the Conquest of our Country by William I. Of
+    this publication, the figures measure about four inches in height: but
+    there is also a complete, and exceedingly successful fac-simile of the
+    first two figures of this series--of the size of the originals
+    (William I. and the Messenger coming to announce to him the landing of
+    Harold in England) also published from the same quarter. The whole of
+    these Drawings were from the pencil of the late ingenious and justly
+    lamented THOS. STOTHARD, Esq. Draftsman to the Society of
+    Antiquaries.]
+
+[145] A complete copy is of rarity in our own country, but not so abroad.
+    It is yet, however, an imperfect work.
+
+[146] There have been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing
+    book-collectors, who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic
+    impression of Sir T. More's Works of 1698; in folio. But this must
+    proceed from sheer obstinacy; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that
+    the latter edition contains the _Utopia_--whereas in the former it is
+    unaccountably omitted to be reprinted--which it might have been, from
+    various previous editions.
+
+[147] This figure is introduced with pursuivants and dogs: but great
+    liberties, as a nice eye will readily discern, have been taken by
+    Montfaucon, when compared with the original--of which the fac-simile,
+    in the previous edition of this work, may be pronounced to be PERFECT.
+
+[148] Something similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase
+    of St. Louis, in Millin's _Antiquites Nationales_. A part of the
+    border in the Tapestry is a representation of subjects from Aesop's
+    Fables.
+
+[149] Of a monument, which has been pronounced by one of our ablest
+    antiquaries to be "THE NOBLEST IN THE WORLD RELATING TO OUR OLD
+    ENGLISH HISTORY," (See _Stukely's Palaeog. Britan._ Number XI.
+    1746, 4to. p. 2-3) it may be expected that some archaeological
+    discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that,
+    after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyot, (and more
+    especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter--as to the period
+    of its execution--may be considered as well nigh, if not wholly, at
+    rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XIXth volumes of the
+    Archaeologia. The Abbe de la Rue contended that this Tapestry was
+    worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the Empress Maud, which
+    would bring it to the earlier part of the XIIth century. The
+    antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability, that it
+    is a performance of the period which it professes to commemorate;
+    namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and
+    consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest, on
+    the part of William. This latter therefore brings it to the period of
+    about 1066, to 1088--so that, after all, the difference of opinion is
+    only whether this Tapestry be fifty years older or younger, than the
+    respective advocates contend.
+
+    But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the most
+    satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical
+    monument, is entitled, "_A Defence of the early Antiquity of the
+    Bayeux Tapestry_," by Thomas Amyot, Esq. immediately following Mr.
+    Stothard's communication, in the work just referred to. It is at
+    direct issue with all the hypotheses of the Abbe de la Rue, and in my
+    opinion the results are triumphantly established. Whether the
+    _Normans_ or the _English_ worked it, is perfectly a secondary
+    consideration. The chief objections, taken by the Abbe, against its
+    being a production of the XIth century, consist in, first, its not
+    being mentioned among the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his
+    decease:--secondly, that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the
+    church, it must have suffered, if not have been annihilated, at the
+    storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the
+    reign of Henry I., A.D. 1106:--thirdly, the silence of _Wace_ upon the
+    subject,--who wrote his metrical histories nearly a century after the
+    Tapestry is supposed to have been executed." The latter is chiefly
+    insisted upon by the learned Abbe; who, which ever champion come off
+    victorious in this archaeological warfare, must at any rate receive the
+    best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and erudite manner in
+    which he has conducted his attacks.
+
+    At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbe de la
+    Rue's positions are all of a _negative_ character; and that,
+    according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be admitted, that
+    because such and such writers have _not_ noticed a circumstance,
+    therefore that circumstance or event cannot have taken place. The
+    first two grounds of objection have, I think, been fairly set aside by
+    Mr. Amyot. As to the third objection, Mr. A. remarks--"But it seems
+    that Wace has not only _not_ quoted the tapestry, but has varied
+    from it in a manner which proves that he had never seen it. The
+    instances given of this variation are, however, a little unfortunate.
+    The first of them is very unimportant, for the difference merely
+    consists in placing a figure at the _stern_ instead of the
+    _prow_ of a ship, and in giving him a bow instead of a trumpet.
+    From an authority quoted by the Abbe himself, it appears that, with
+    regard to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was
+    wrong; and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of
+    the superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of
+    variation, namely, that relating to Taillefer's sword, may be easily
+    dismissed; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard's
+    examination, that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be found in
+    the Tapestry," &c. But it is chiefly from the names of AELFGYVA and
+    WADARD, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the
+    conclusion in favour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous
+    production, may be safely drawn.
+
+    It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when the
+    work was in progress, or within the recollection of the workers, and
+    that they were attached to persons of some particular note or
+    celebrity, or rather perhaps of _local_ importance. An
+    eyewitness, or a contemporary only would have introduced them. They
+    would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or
+    historian, who lived a _century_ after the event. No antiquary
+    has yet fairly appropriated these names, and more especially the
+    second. It follows therefore that they would not have been introduced
+    had they not been in existence at the time; and in confirmation of
+    that of WADARD, it seems that Mr. Henry Ellis (Secretary of the
+    Society of Antiquaries) "confirmed Mr. Amyot's conjecture on that
+    subject, by the references with which he furnished him to _Domesday
+    Book_, where his name occurs in no less than six counties, as
+    holding lands of large extent under _Odo_, Bishop of Bayeux, the
+    tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was not a
+    _guard_ or _centinel,_ as the Abbe de la Rue supposes, but
+    that he held an _office of rank_ in the household of either
+    William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt." Mr. Amyot thus
+    spiritedly concludes:--alluding to the successful completion of Mr.
+    Stothard's copy of the entire original roll.--"Yet if the BAYEUX
+    TAPESTRY be not history of the first class, it is perhaps something
+    better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the
+    costume and manners of that age, which, of all others, if we except
+    the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to
+    us;--that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with
+    them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language."
+
+    Mr. Amyot has subjoined a specimen of his own poetical powers in
+    describing "the Minstrel TAILLEFER'S achievements," in the battle of
+    Hastings, from the old Norman lays of GAIMAR and WACE. I can only find
+    room for the first few verses. The poem is entitled,
+
+      THE ONSET OF TAILLEFER.
+
+      Foremost in the bands of France,
+      Arm'd with hauberk and with lance,
+      And helmet glittering in the air,
+      As if a warrior knight he were,
+      Rush'd forth the MINSTREL TAILLEFER
+      Borne on his courser swift and strong,
+        He gaily bounded o'er the plain,
+      And raised the heart-inspiring song
+      (Loud echoed by the warlike throng)
+        Of _Roland_ and of _Charlemagne_,
+      Of _Oliver_, brave peer of old,
+        Untaught to fly, unknown to yield,
+      And many a Knight and Vassal bold,
+      Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood,
+        Dyed _Roncevalle's_ field.
+
+[150] M. Denon told me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the
+    commands of Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this
+    Tapestry for three months; that it was displayed in due form and
+    ceremony in the Museum; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of
+    it, (which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he
+    returned it to Bayeux--as it was considered to be the peculiar
+    property of that place.
+
+[151] See p. 109 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES. ENVIRONS.
+AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY.
+
+
+I send you this despatch close to the very Cathedral, whose spires, while
+yet at Bayeux, were already glimmering in the horizon of my imagination.
+The journey hither has been in every respect the most beautiful and
+interesting that I have experienced on _this_ side the Seine. I have seen
+something like undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams,
+and well-peopled villages; and an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, as well
+as the charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied me from one cathedral
+to the other.
+
+I left the _Hotel de Luxembourg_, at Bayeux, in a hired cabriolet with a
+pair of horses, about five in the afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot,
+for ST. LO: which latter place I entered by moon-light. The road, as usual,
+was broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, and
+fir. As I just observed to you, I entered St. Lo by moon-light: the double
+towers of the great cathedral-like looking church having a grand and even
+romantic effect on approaching the town. An old castle, or rather a mere
+round-tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering it. Passing
+the porch, or west end of the church, sometimes descending, at others
+ascending--midst close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which cast
+a deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out the moon beams for several
+hundred yards--and pursuing a winding route, I at length stopped at the
+door of the principal hotel--_au Grand Coq!_ I laughed heartily when I
+heard its name; for with the strictest adherence to truth the adjective
+ought to have been _petit!_
+
+However, the beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee, with which I
+was quickly served, proved to be excellent. I strolled out, on a
+_reconnoissance_, about half-past nine; but owing to the deep shadows from
+the moon, arising from the narrowness of the streets, I could make out
+nothing satisfactory of the locale. The church, however, promised a rich
+treat on the morrow. As soon as the morrow came, I betook myself to the
+church. It was Sunday morning. The square, before the west front of the
+church, was the rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks: but what was
+my astonishment on observing in one corner of it, a quack doctor vending
+powder for the effectual _polishing of metals_. He had just beaten his
+drum, in order to collect his audience; and having got a good assemblage,
+was full of the virtues of his wares--which were pronounced to be also
+"equally efficacious for _complaints in the stomach!_"
+
+This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied, by a rival
+charlatan, on horseback, with _powders to kill rats_. The latter stood upon
+the same eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white--upon
+which were painted _black rats_ of every size and description; and in his
+harangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats, painted
+upon his dress, were _exact portraits_ of those which had been destroyed by
+means of his powders! This, too, on a Sunday morning. But remember
+Dieppe.[152]
+
+Having despatched my breakfast, I proceeded to survey the church, from
+which the town takes its name. First, for the exterior. The _attached_
+towers demand attention and admiration. They are so slightly attached as to
+be almost separated from the body or nave; forming something of that
+particular character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of
+Coutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St. Lo be
+not preferable, on the score of regularity and delicacy, to the similar
+portion at this latter place. The west front is indeed its chief beauty of
+exterior attraction; and it was once rendered doubly interesting by a
+profusion of alto-rilievo statues, which _disappeared_ during the
+commotions of the revolution. You ascend rather a lofty flight of steps to
+this entrance; and into which the whole town seemed to be pouring the full
+tide of its population. I suffered myself to be carried away along, with
+the rest, and almost startled as I entered the nave.[153] To the left, is a
+horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in her arms. The
+countenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as the colouring is most
+despicable. I never saw such a daub: and what emotions, connected with
+tenderness of feeling, or ardour of devotion, can the contemplation of such
+an object excite? Surely the parish must have lost its wits, as well as its
+taste, to endure such a monstrous exhibition of art.
+
+As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the very
+singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars and
+arches which sustain the roof. These pillars have _no capitals_, and the
+arch springs from them in the most abrupt manner. The arch itself is also
+very short and sharp pointed; like the tops of lancet windows. This mode
+obtains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right
+side aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also in
+the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way between
+the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I sure
+that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular
+lines have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo were the _first_ church
+upon which the architect, who built both _that_ and the cathedral at
+_Coutances_, tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be the
+effort of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardly
+and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other.
+Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is
+closely blocked up by surrounding houses.
+
+I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy
+machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place. There
+are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like
+those of the XVIth century, in our own country. But on quitting the town,
+in the road to Coutances,--after you come to what are called the old castle
+walls, on passing the outer gate--your eye is struck by rather an
+extraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built
+upon a rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;
+while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and
+fruitful river _Aure_.[154] The country immediately around abounds in
+verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortie
+from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely
+cheerful and gratifying.
+
+A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of the
+uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of rather
+respectable appearance, wanted springs: but the increasing beauty of the
+country, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautiful
+cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to the
+left. The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will.
+From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very
+interesting from the broad _route royale_, lined with birch, hazel, and
+beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of
+the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the whole
+landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and
+animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the _paysannes_ and
+_bourgeoises_ mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark _blues_
+and _crimsons_ were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace,
+tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a
+scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds--worthy of being
+copied-by the pencil of Claude.
+
+We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing his whip,
+and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an
+ascent, drove to the chief inn, the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, within about one
+hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not
+readily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from
+the north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.
+There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics--thus
+returning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College,
+or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood. This College, which
+has suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and
+Bonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very
+distinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such a
+crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with
+white edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting before their
+doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon was indeed unusually
+serene.
+
+I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was impossible
+to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed; and
+a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction. As I looked
+around, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the
+columns round the choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choir
+and the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For a
+wonder, an _unpainted_ Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind the
+choir! There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church that
+merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some
+beautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noble
+families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deep
+well in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire.
+The pulpit is large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.
+The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is a
+period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of
+this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbe de la
+Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily at
+the end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century.
+
+The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.[155]
+Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as
+far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great object was to
+mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing
+fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent
+panorama. Another story, one half the height of the present erection from
+the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of
+NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES. As I ascended this central tower, I digressed
+occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was
+somewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten,
+green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which arose here,
+as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution)
+to make _bullets_--and from the rain's penetrating the interior in
+consequence. As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures to
+notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows
+of the western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and
+magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I reached the
+summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around.
+
+The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of the
+sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse of
+ocean. On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded,
+undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. _Jersey_ appeared
+to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south,
+stood out the bold insulated little rock of _Granville_, defying the
+eternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be
+seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which
+I am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glow
+to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible to
+particularize. All was exquisitely refreshing and joyous. The heart beats
+with a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive and
+exhilarating scene! Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured vesture:
+and a prospect of a fine summer and an abundant harvest infused additional
+delight into the beholder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and
+respectable mansion or Palace of _the Bishop_; in the midst of a formal
+garden--begirt with yet more formally clipt hedges. As the Prelate bore a
+good character, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which contained
+an inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community. In
+short, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central tower
+of the cathedral of Coutances!
+
+I quitted such a spot with reluctance; but time was flying away, and the
+patience of the cuisinier at the Hotel d'Angleterre had already been put
+somewhat to the test. In twenty minutes I sat down to my dinner, in a
+bed-room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk. The females,
+even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names; and _Victorina_ was
+that of the fille de chambre at the Hotel d'Angleterre. After dinner I
+walked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances; and a more
+delightful evening's walk I never enjoyed. The women of every
+description--ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids--were all abroad;
+either sitting upon benches, or standing in gossiping groups, or straying
+in friendly pairs. The comeliness of the women was remarkable; a certain
+freshness of tint, and prevalence of the embonpoint, reminded me of those
+of our own country; and among the latter, I startled--as I gazed upon a
+countenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of a
+deceased relation! Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and
+interesting than they are at Coutances.
+
+The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and interesting: visit
+them in what direction you please. But there is nothing which so
+immediately strikes you as the remains of an _ancient Aqueduct_; gothicised
+at the hither end, but with three or four circular arches at the further
+extremity, where it springs from the opposite banks. Fine as was yesterday,
+this day has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of an
+opportunity of visiting the market, and of mingling with the country
+people. The boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplishing both these
+objects. Corn is a great article of trade; and they have noble granaries
+for depositing it. Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and much
+business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the midst of this ever-moving
+throng, my old friend the vender of rat-destroying powders--busied in the
+exercise of his calling, and covered with his usual vestment of white,
+spotted or painted with black rats. He found plenty of hearers and plenty
+of purchasers. All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man came
+forward to the edge of a bank--below which a great concourse was assembled.
+He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat, would sail to Jersey in the
+course of the afternoon; but the people seemed too intent upon their
+occupations and gambols to attend to him. I sat upon a bench and read one
+of the little chap books--_Richard sans peur_--which I had purchased the
+same morning.
+
+While absorbed in reflections upon the heterogeneous scene before me--and
+wishing, for some of my dearest friends in England to be also spectators of
+it--the notes of an hand-organ more and more distinctly stole upon my ear.
+They were soft; and even pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that
+the musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a Virgin, with the infant
+Jesus, in wax; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude to
+approach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a
+_Roxburgher_ to remain quiet on the bench: and accordingly starting up, and
+extending two sous, I became the fortunate purchaser of a little _chap_
+article--of which my friend BERNARDO will for ever, I fear, envy me the
+possession! The vender of the tome sang through his nose, as the organ
+warbled the following
+
+  _Cantique Spirituelle_.
+
+  EN L'HONNEUR DU TRES-SAINT SACREMENT,
+
+  _Qui est expose dans la grande Eglise cathedrale de St. Pierre et
+  St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la misericorde de Dieu_.
+
+  Air: du Theodore Francais.
+
+  APPROCHEZ-VOUS, Chretiens fideles,
+  Afin d'entendre reciter:
+  Ecoutez tous avec un grand zele,
+  Avec ferveur et piete,
+  Le voeu que nous avons fait,
+  D'aller au grand Saint Jacques;
+  Grace a Dieu nous l'avons accompli,
+  Pour l'amour de Jesus Christ.
+
+    Dieu crea le ciel et la terre,
+  Les astres et le firmament;
+  Il fit la brillante lumiere,
+  Ainsi que tous les autres elemens,
+  Il a tire tout du neant,
+  Ce qui respire sur la terre:
+  Rendons hommage a la grandeur
+  De notre divin Createur.
+
+  [156]Tous les jours la malice augmente, Il y a tres-peu de religion; La
+  jeunesse est trop petulante, Les enfans jurent le saint Nom. Et comment
+  s'etonneroit-on Si tant de fleaux nous tourmentent? Et si l'on voit tant
+  de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les pecheurs.
+
+  Souvent on assiste a l'Office, C'est comme une maniere d'acquit, Sans
+  penser au saint Sacrifice; Ou s'est immole Jesus Christ. On parle avec
+  ses amis, De ses affaires temporelles, Sans faire aucune attention Aux
+  mysteres de la religion.
+
+  Reflechissez bien, peres et meres, Sur ces morales et verites: C'est la
+  loi de Dieu notre Pere; C'est lui qui nous les a dictees: Il faut les
+  suivre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serons sur la terre. N'oublions
+  point qu'apres la mort, Nos ames existeront encore.
+
+The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet accomplished the
+favourite and indispensable object of visiting the PUBLIC LIBRARY. I made
+two unsuccessful attempts; but the third was fortunate. I had no letter of
+introduction, and every body was busied in receiving the visits of their
+country friends. I was much indebted to the polite attention of a stranger:
+who accompanied me to the house of the public librarian, his friend, who,
+not being at home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The room
+in which they are contained--wholly detached--and indeed at a considerable
+distance from the cathedral--is about sixty English feet long, low, and
+rather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with books, in the most shameful
+state of confusion. I saw, for the first time in Normandy, and with
+absolute gladness of heart, a copy of the _Complutensian Polyglot Bible_;
+of which the four latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good:
+the earlier ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, since
+treading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of _Italian_ books.
+But the collection stands in dreadful need of weeding. Indeed, this
+observation may apply to the greater number of public collections
+throughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for his patient and truly
+friendly attention, and took my leave.
+
+In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert's, the principal bookseller,
+and "beat about the bush" for bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not
+crowned with success. M.J. told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries,
+that a Monsieur A----, a stout burly man, whom he called "un gros
+papa"--was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the
+acquisition of the same black-letter treasures; and that he swept away
+every thing in the shape of an ancient and _equivocal_ volume, in his
+annual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing from Manoury at Caen.
+M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man; and is not only "_Seul
+Imprimeur de Monseigneur l'Eveque"_ (PIERRE DUPONT-POURSAT), but is in fact
+almost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought of him a
+copy of the _Livre d'Eglise ou Nouveau Paroissien a l'usage du Diocese de
+Coutances_, or the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very thick
+duodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, printed in a clear, new, and
+extremely legible character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It
+was bound in sheepskin, and I gave only _thirty sous_ for it new. How it
+can be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M. Joubert told
+me that the compositor or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36
+pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our own country, such
+prices would be at least doubled.
+
+It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of YOUNG
+ECCLESIASTICS. In short, the establishment now erecting for them, will
+contain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer than four hundred.
+It is also impossible not to be struck with the extreme simplicity of their
+manners and deportment. They converse with apparent familiarity with the
+very humblest of their flock: and seem, from the highest to the lowest, to
+be cordially received. They are indifferent as to personal appearance. One
+young man carries a bundle of linen to his laundress, along the streets:
+another carries a round hat in his hand, having a cocked one upon his head:
+a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a chair, or small
+table, in that of a fourth. As these Clergymen pass, they are repeatedly
+saluted. Till the principal building be finished, many of them are
+scattered about the town, living quite in the upper stories. In short, it
+is the _profession_, rather than the particular candidate, which seems to
+claim the respectful attention of the townsmen.
+
+
+[152] See page 13 ante.
+
+[153] Mr. Cotman has a view of this church, in his work on Normandy.
+
+[154] I suspect that the "peaceful" waters of this stream were frequently
+    died with the blood of Hugonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce
+    contests between MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON, towards the latter half of
+    the sixteenth century. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest
+    towns in the Bocage; and the very pass above described, was the avenue
+    by which the soldiers of the captains, just mentioned, alternately
+    advanced and retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Lo: which
+    at length surrendered to the victorious army of the _latter_; the
+    leader of the Catholics. SEGUIN: _Histoire Militaire des Bocains_; _p.
+    340-384_; 1816, _12 mo_.
+
+[155] The reader will be doubtless gratified by the artist-like view of
+    this cathedral, by Mr. Cotman, in his _Architectural Antiquities of
+    Normandy_.
+
+[156] It cannot fail to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact
+    _rhyming verse_, though printed prose-wise.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OF
+VIRE.
+
+_Vire_.
+
+
+Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of nature and of
+art, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare, therefore, for
+miscellaneous intelligence; but such as, I will make bold to predict,
+cannot fail to afford you considerable gratification. Normandy is doubtless
+a glorious country. It is fruitful in its soil, picturesque in the
+disposition of its land and water, and rich in the architectural relics of
+"the olden time." It is also more than ordinarily interesting to an
+Englishman. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this despatch--within
+two hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, which just
+now encloses me within its granite walls--here, I say, lived and revelled
+the illustrious family of the DE VERES.[157] Hence William the Conqueror
+took the famous AUBREY DE VERE to be a spectator of his prowess, and a
+sharer of his spoils, in his decisive subjugation of our own country. It is
+from this place that the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proud
+castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which turns a hundred
+mills in its course: but the warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, and
+the ramparts are levelled with the solid rock with which they were once, as
+it were, identified.
+
+I left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance; so completely
+_anglicised_ seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. The evening was
+beautiful in the extreme: and upon gaining the height of one of the
+opposite hills, within about half a league of the town, on the high
+Granville route, I alighted--walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, upon
+the lovely landscape around--the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming of
+one entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardly
+possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind; and it served as a
+just counterpart to the more expansive scene which I had contemplated, but
+the preceding evening, from the heights of that same cathedral. The
+conducteur of the Diligence rousing me from my rapturous abstraction, I
+remounted, and descended into a valley; and ere the succeeding height was
+gained, a fainter light floated over the distant landscape ... and every
+object reminded me of the accuracy of those exquisite lines of
+Collins--descriptive of the approach of evening's
+
+  ... gradual, dusky veil.
+
+For the first time, I had to do with a drunken conducteur. Luckily the road
+was broad, and in the finest possible condition, and perfectly well known
+to the horses. Every turning was successfully made; and the fear of
+upsetting began to give way to the annoyance experienced from the roaring
+and shouting of the conducteur. It was almost dark when I reached
+GRANVILLE--about twelve miles from Coutances; when I learnt that the horses
+had run six miles before they started with us. On entering the town, the
+road was absolutely solid rock: and considering what a _house_ we carried
+behind us (for so the body of the _diligence_ seemed) and the uncertain
+footing of the horses, in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, I
+apprehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light; when,
+approaching one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither our
+conducteur (in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the
+Hotel d'Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, the passengers
+alighted with thankful hearts, and bespoke supper and beds.
+
+Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which renders an
+approach from thence almost impracticable. On every other side it is
+defended by the ocean, into which the town seems to have dropt
+perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water, Granville cannot be
+approached, even by transports, nearer than within two-thirds of a league;
+and of course at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply pointed
+rock and chalk: impenetrable--terrific--and presenting both certain failure
+and destruction to the assailants. It is a GIBRALTAR IN MINIATURE. The
+English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only a
+political diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the civil
+wars, and more particularly in those of the League, Granville, however, had
+its share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull, dreary, place; to be visited
+only for the sake of the view from thence, looking towards _St. Malo_, and
+_Mont St. Michel_; the latter of which I give up--as an hopeless object of
+attainment. Granville is in fact built upon rock;[158] and the houses and
+the only two churches are entirely constructed of granite. The principal
+church (I think it was the principal) is rather pretty within, as to its
+construction; but the decidedly gloomy effect given to it by the tint of
+the _granite_--the pillars being composed of that substance--renders it
+disagreeable to the eye. I saw several confessionals; and in one of them,
+the office of confession was being performed by a priest, who attended to
+two penitents at the same time; but whose physiognomy was so repulsively
+frightful, that I could not help concluding he was listening to a tale
+which he was by no means prepared to receive.
+
+An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied me. There was no
+public conveyance to _Vire_, whither I intended immediately departing, and
+so I hired a voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To a question
+about springs, the conducteur replied that I should find every thing "tres
+propre." Having paid the reckoning, I set my face towards VIRE. The day,
+for the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond
+measure: and the wind (to the east) was directly in my face. Nevertheless
+the road was one of the finest that I had seen in France, for breadth and
+general soundness of condition. It had all the characteristics, in breadth
+and straitness, of a Roman route; and as it was greatly undulating, I had
+frequently some gratifying glimpses of its bold direction. The surrounding
+country was of a quietly picturesque but fruitful aspect; and had my seat
+been comfortable, or after the fashion of those in my own country, my
+sensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of _springs_, or
+any thing approximating to "tres propre," I had to encounter a _hard
+plank_, suspended at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides;
+and as the road was but too well bottomed, and the conveyance was open in
+front to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I shall
+never forget) the misery of this conveyance.
+
+Fortunately the first stage was _Ville Dieu_. Here I ordered a voiture and
+post horses: but the master of the Poste Royale, or rather of the inn,
+shook his head--"Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pour
+la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir." I followed, with
+miserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an old
+tumble-down-looking phaeton--"la voila, c'est la seule que je possede en ce
+moment"--exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its position
+since the fall of last years' leaf. It had been--within and without--the
+roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard;
+and although literally covered with the _evidences_ of such long and
+undisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as I
+discovered the wished for "_ressorts_" (or _springs_) I compromised for the
+repulsiveness of the exterior, and declared my intention of taking it
+onward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in
+requisition; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly
+away with this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely darted
+forward at a round rattling gallop for _St. Sever_. Blessings ever wait
+upon the memory of that artisan who invented ... _springs_!
+
+The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he galloped, or
+trotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our wishes--directed. The
+approach to our halting place was rather imposing. What seemed to be a
+monastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorish
+architecture; and indeed as I had occasional glimpses of it through the
+trees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in
+truth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, I
+made our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather of
+dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I entered the
+chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left--a very clean,
+large paper, and uncut copy of the folio _Rouen Missal_ of 1759. Every
+thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance:
+but the surrounding country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former
+days of prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--there
+had been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect contrast to
+such a state.
+
+On returning to the "_Poste Royale_" I found two fresh lusty horses to our
+voiture--but the postilion had sent a boy into the field to catch a
+_third_. Wherefore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third horse
+"reciproquement pour l'annee"--parce qu'il faut traverser une grande
+montagne avant d'arriver a Vire"--was the explanatory reply. It seemed
+perfectly ridiculous, as the vehicle was of such slender dimensions and
+weight. However, I was forced to yield. To scold the postboy was equally
+absurd and unavailing: "parce que la tarif l'exigea." But the "montagne"
+was doubtless a reason for this additional horse: and I began to imagine
+that something magnificently picturesque might be in store. The three
+horses were put a-breast, and off we started with a phaeton-like velocity!
+Certainly nothing could have a more ridiculous appearance than my pigmy
+voiture thus conveyed by three animals--strong enough to have drawn the
+diligence. I was not long in reaching this "huge mountain," which provoked
+my unqualified laughter--from its insignificant size--and upon the top of
+which stands the town of VIRE. It had been a _fair_-day; and groups of men
+and women, returning from the town, in their blue and crimson dresses,
+cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day, and lighted up the features
+of the landscape. The nearer I approached, the more numerous and incessant
+were these groups.
+
+Vire is a sort of _Rouen_ in miniature--if bustle and population be only
+considered. In architectural comparison, it is miserably feeble and
+inferior. The houses are generally built of granite, and look extremely
+sombre in consequence. The old castle is yet interesting and commanding.
+But of this presently. I drove to the "_Cheval Blanc_," and bespoke, as
+usual, a late dinner and beds. The first visit was to the _castle,_ but it
+is right that you should know, before hand, that the town of Vire, which
+contains a population of about ten thousand souls, stands upon a commanding
+eminence, in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque country called
+the BOCAGE. This country was, in former times, as fruitful in civil wars,
+horrors, and devastations, as the more celebrated Bocage of the more
+western part of France during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage of
+Normandy was the scene of bloodshed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot
+persecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts through
+which I have travelled--from Caen hitherwards--that the hills and the dales
+rang with the feats of arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture and
+success of COLIGNY, CONDE, MONTMOGERY, and MATIGNON.[159]
+
+But for the Castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open space,
+terminated by a portion of the boulevards; having, in the foreground, the
+public library to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right:
+neither of them objects of much architectural consequence. Still nearer in
+the foreground, is a fountain; whither men, women, and children--but
+chiefly the second class, in the character of _blanchisseuses_--regularly
+resort for water; as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a lucky
+moment that Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his ready pencil
+transmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and faithful not
+to be followed up by a finished design. I send you a portion of this
+prettily grouped picture; premising, that the woman to the right, in the
+foreground, begged leave purposely to sit--or rather stand--for her
+portrait. The artist, in a short time, was completely surrounded by
+spectators of his graphic skill.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The "_Cheval Blanc_"--the name of the hotel at which I reside--should be
+rather called the "_Cheval Noir_;" for a more dark, dingy, and even dirty
+residence, for a traveller of any _nasal_ or _ocular_ sensibility, can be
+rarely visited. My bed room is hung with tapestry; which, for aught I know
+to the contrary, may represent the daring exploits of MONTGOMERY and
+MATIGNON: but which is so begrimed with filth that there is no decyphering
+the subjects worked upon it.
+
+On leaving the inn--and making your way to the top of the street--you turn
+to the left; but on looking down, again to the left, you observe, below
+you, the great high road leading to _Caen_, which has a noble appearance.
+Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is intersected with the
+"_routes royales_" cannot fail to strike a stranger; especially as these
+roads run over hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equally
+abundant in their respective harvests. The immediate vicinity of the town
+is as remarkable for its picturesque objects of scenery as for its high
+state of cultivation; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever part
+visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment to be
+experienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the scenery, from
+these heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about Matlock. There is
+plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern; while another _Derwent_, less
+turbid and muddy, meanders below. Thus much for a general, but hasty sketch
+of the town of Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the _interior_
+of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto only
+contemplated the _roofs_.
+
+And yet I must not close my despatch without performing my promise about
+the CASTLE; of which indeed (as you will see by the subjoined miniature
+view) only a sort of ruinous shell remains. Its age may be a little towards
+the end of the thirteenth century. The stone is of a deep reddish tint: and
+although what remains is only a portion of the _keep_, yet I can never
+suppose it, even in its state of original integrity, to have been of very
+capacious dimensions. Its site is most commanding.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+[157] The reader will find the fullest particulars relating to this
+    once-distinguished family, in _Halstead's Genealogical Memoirs of
+    Noble Families, &c_.: a book it is true, of extreme scarcity. In lieu
+    of it let him consult _Collin's Noble Families_.
+
+[158] [Mons. Licquet tells us, that in 1439, a Seigneur of Gratot, ceded
+    the rock of Granville to an English Nobleman, on the day of St. John
+    the Baptist, on receiving the homage of a hat of red roses. The
+    Nobleman intended to build a town there; but Henry VI. dispossessed
+    him of it, and built fortifications in 1440. Charles VII. in turn,
+    dispossessed Henry; but the additional fortifications which he built
+    were demolished by order of Louis XIV. &c.]
+
+[159] An epitomised account of these civil commotions will be found in the
+    _Histoire Militaire des Bocains, par_ M. RICHARD SEGUIN; _a
+    Vire_, 1816; 12mo. of which work, and of its author, some notice
+    will be taken in the following pages.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LARENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M.
+SEGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY.
+
+
+It is a sad rainy day; and having no temptation to stir abroad, I have shut
+myself up by the side of a huge wood fire--(surrounded by the dingy
+tapestry, of which my last letter did not make very honourable mention) in
+a thoroughly communicative mood--to make you acquainted with all that has
+passed since my previous despatch. Books and the Bibliomania be the chief
+"burden of my present song!" You may remember, in my account of the public
+library at Caen, that some mention was made of a certain OLIVIER
+BASSELIN--whom I designated as the DRUNKEN BARNABY _of Normandy_. Well, my
+friend--I have been at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme, by
+the possession of a copy of the _Vaudevires_ of that said Olivier
+Basselin--and from the hands, too, of one of his principal editors ...
+Monsieur Lanon de Larenaudiere, Avocat, et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit.
+This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the beloved library at
+Althorp. But let me tell my tale my own way.
+
+Hard by the hotel of the _Cheval Blanc_, (the best, bad as it is--and
+indeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of the name of ADAM. He is
+the principal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the same craft.
+After discoursing upon sundry desultory topics--and particularly examining
+the _books of Education_, among which I was both surprised and pleased to
+find the _Distichs of Muretus_[160]--I expressed my regret at having
+travelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting with one single
+copy of the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_ for sale. "It is not very
+surprising, Sir, since it is a privately printed book, and was never
+intended for sale. The impression too is very limited. You know, Sir, that
+the book was published here--and--" "Then I begin to be confident about
+obtaining it"--replied I. "Gently, Sir;--" resumed Monsieur Adam--"it is
+not to be bought, even here. But do you know no one...?" "Not a creature."
+"Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Englishman. One of its principal
+editors--a very gallant _Bibliomaniac_--who is a great collector and lover
+of the literature of your country--(here I picked up courage and gaiety of
+heart) lives in this town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him."
+Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a letter of
+introduction--"Ce n'est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. Il aime vos
+compatriotes; et soyez persuade de l'accueil le plus favorable." Methought
+Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet heard a Norman
+speak.[161]
+
+In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to return with an account of
+my reception) and five minutes brought me into the presence of Monsieur
+Lanon de Larenaudiere, President du Tribunal, &c. It is not possible for me
+to convey to you a notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of
+heart, that marked the reception which this gentleman instantly gave me:
+and I will frankly own that I was as much "abashed" as ever our ancient
+friend Caxton had been--in the presence of his patroness the Duchess of
+Burgundy. I followed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly up stairs;
+and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of them
+English) lying upon the window seats of the first landing-place; much after
+the fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence,
+not quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster Abbey.
+
+On gaining the first floor, mine host turned the keys of the doors of two
+contiguous rooms, and exclaimed, "VOILA MA BIBLIOTHEQUE!" The air of
+conscious triumph with which these words were uttered, delighted me
+infinitely; but my delight was much increased on a leisurely survey of one
+of the prettiest, most useful, and commendable collections of books,
+chiefly in the department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had ever
+witnessed. Monsieur de Larenaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, of
+which _eight hundred are English_. But the owner is especially fond of
+poetical archaeology; in other words, of collecting every work which
+displays the progress of French and English poetry in the middle and
+immediately following ages; and talks of _Trouveurs_ and _Troubadours_ with
+an enthusiasm approaching to extacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to our
+Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey; tells you how dearly he loves them; but
+yet leads you to conclude that he _rather_ prefers _Le Grand, Ginguene,
+Sismondi_, and _Raynouard_. Of the venerable living oracle in these
+matters, the Abbe de la Rue, he said he considered him as "un peu trop
+systematique." In short, M. de Larenaudiere has almost a complete critical
+collection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poetry; and was most
+anxious and inquisitive about the present state of cultivation of that
+branch of literature in England: adding, that he himself meditated a work
+upon the French poetry of the XIIth and XIIIth centuries. He said he
+thought his library might be worth about 25,000 francs: nor did I consider
+such a valuation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and incessantly;
+but he talks well: and spoke of the renown of a certain library in _St.
+James's Place_, in a manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse and
+warm the blood of its Librarian. I concluded an interview of nearly two
+hours, by his compliance with my wish to dine with me on the following day:
+although he was quite urgent in bargaining for the previous measure of my
+tasting his _potage_ and _vol au vent_. But the shortness and constant
+occupation of my time would not allow me to accede to it. M. de
+Larenaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard, drew forth an uncut
+copy, stitched in blue spotted paper, of his beloved _Vaudevires_ of
+OLIVIER BASSELIN:[162] and presenting it to me, added "Conservez le, pour
+l'amour de moi." You may be assured that I received such a present in the
+most gracious manner I was capable of--but instantly and honestly
+added--"permettez qu'il soit depose dans la bibliotheque de Milord S...?
+"C'est la meme chose"--rejoined he; and giving me the address of the public
+librarian, we separated in the most cordial manner till the morrow.
+
+I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and held aloft
+my blue-covered copy of the _Vaudevires_ as an unquestionable proof of the
+successful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere. Leaving the
+precious cargo with him, and telling him that I purposed immediately
+visiting the public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness about
+books--and asked me if I had ever _published_ any thing _bibliographical_?
+"Car enfin, Monsieur, la pluspart des _Virois_ ne savent rien de la
+literature angloise"--concluded he ... But I had just witnessed a splendid
+exception to this sweeping clause of censure. I then sought the residence
+of the Abbe Du MORTUEUX, the public librarian. That gentleman was from
+home, at a dinner party. I obtained information of the place where he might
+be found; and considering _two_ o'clock to be rather too early an hour
+(even in France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so important
+a function, I strolled in the neighbourhood of the street, where he was
+regaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of that time, I
+ventured to knock at the door of a very respectable mansion, and to enquire
+for the bibliographical Abbe. "He is here, Sir, and has just done dinner.
+May I give him your name?" "I am a stranger: an Englishman; who, on the
+recommendation of Monsieur Larenaudiere, wishes to see the public library.
+But I will call again in about an hour." "By no means: by no means: the
+Abbe will see you immediately." And forthwith appeared a very comely, tall,
+and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both as
+to form and powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a
+figure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning; and he
+told me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the place which I
+wished to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he took his
+hat--and in one minute, to my surprise, I found myself in the street with
+the Abbe de Mortueux, in the high way to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. In our way
+thither our discourse was constant and unrestrained. "You appear here;
+Monsieur l'Abbe, to be partial to literature;... but allow me first to
+congratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town." "For literature
+in general, we are pretty well disposed. In regard to the beauties of the
+immediate neighbourhood of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed,
+if we were not sensible of them." In five minutes we reached the Library.
+
+The shutters of the room were fastened, but the worthy Abbe opened them in
+a trice; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy, what appeared to be a
+genuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room could be scarcely
+more than twenty-two feet square. I went instantly to work, with eyes and
+hands, in the ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding something
+in the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French Chronicle, or
+Romance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes in vain! The history of
+the library is this:--The founder was a Monsieur PICHON; who, on being
+taken prisoner by the English, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided
+a long time in England under the name of TYRREL, and lived in circumstances
+of respectability and even of opulence. There--whether on the dispersion of
+the libraries of our Meads, Foulkes', and Rawlinsons, I know not--he made
+his collection; took his books over with him to Jersey, where he died in
+1780: and bequeathed them, about 3000 in number, to his native town of
+Vire. M. du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a little
+memorial about Pichon. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilst
+he lived among us) adorns the library; with which I hope it will go down to
+a distant and grateful posterity. The colouring of this portrait is faded:
+but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensible
+physiognomy.
+
+Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was untouched during the
+Revolution; while the neighbouring library of the _Cordeliers_ was
+ransacked without mercy. But I regret to say that the books in the
+cupboards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any thing very marvellous
+in the details of this collection; The old-fashioned library doors, of
+wood, are quite in character with what they protect. Among the earlier
+printed books, I saw a very bad copy of _Sweynheym and Pannartz's_ edition
+of the _De Civitate Dei_ of St. Austin, of the date of 1470; and a large
+folio of _Gering's_ impression of the _Sermons of Leonard de Utino_ printed
+about the year 1478. This latter was rather a fine book. A little
+black-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, somewhat tempted
+me; but I could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and half
+jocose, whether a napoleon would not secure me the possession of a piquant
+little volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend Guido
+Mercator?[163] The Abbe smiled: observing--"mon ami, on fait voir les
+livres ici; on les lit meme: mais on ne les vend pas." I felt the force of
+this pointed reply: and was resolved never again to ask an Ecclesiastic to
+part with a black-letter volume, even though it should be printed by "my
+old friend Guido Mercator."
+
+Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I enquired of
+my amiable guide about the "LIBRARY OF THE CORDELIERS," of which he had
+just made mention. He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil
+law, and had been literally almost destroyed: that he had contrived however
+to secure a great number of "rubbishing theological books," (so he called
+them!) which he sold for _three sous_ a piece--and with the produce of
+which he bought many excellent works for the library. I should like to have
+had the sifting of this "theological rubbish!" It remained only to thank
+the Abbe most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions and
+searches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from his
+surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a "soyez tranquille," that
+the matter was not worth either a thought or a syllable; and ere we quitted
+the library, he bade me observe the written entries of the numbers of
+students who came daily thither to read. There were generally (he told me)
+from fifteen to twenty "hard at it"--and I saw the names of not fewer than
+_ninety-two_ who aspired to the honour and privilege of having access to
+the BIBLIOTHECA PICHONIANA.
+
+For the third time, in the same day, I visited Monsieur Adam; to carry
+away, like a bibliomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there a
+grave, stout gentleman--who saluted me on my entrance, and who was
+introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the name of SEGUIN. He had been waiting
+(he said) full three quarters of an hour to see me, and concluded by
+observing, that, although a man in business, he had aspired to the honour
+of authorship. He had written, in fact, two rather interesting--but
+wretchedly, and incorrectly printed--duodecimo volumes, relating to the
+BOCAGE,[164] in the immediate vicinity of Vire; and was himself the sole
+vender and distributer of his publications. On my expressing a wish to
+possess these books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait his
+return with a copy or two of them. While he was gone, M. Adam took the
+opportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable tradesman; but
+that, having said some severe things of the manufactures of Vire in his
+_first_ publication,[165] relating to the _civil_ history of the Bocains,
+his townsmen sharply resented what they considered as reflections thrown
+out against them; and M. Seguin was told that perhaps his personal safety
+was endangered ... He wanted not a second hint--but fled from home with
+precipitancy: and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy, and
+burnt it before the door of his house. This, however, did not _cool_ the
+ardour of authorship in M. Seguin. He set about publishing his _military_
+history of the Bocains; and in the introductory part took occasion to
+retort upon the violence of his persecutors. To return to M. Seguin. In
+about ten minutes he appeared, with two copies in his hand--which I
+purchased, I thought dearly, at five francs each volume; or a napoleon for
+the four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell you
+that I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that I was well
+satisfied with Vire.
+
+Yesterday M. de Larenaudiere made good his engagement, and dined with me at
+five, in the salle a manger. This is a large inn; and if good fare depended
+upon the number and even elegance of female cooks, the traveller ought to
+expect the very best at the _Cheval Blanc_. The afternoon was so
+inviting--and my guest having volunteered his services to conduct me to the
+most beautiful points of view in the immediate neighbourhood--that we each
+seemed to vie with the other in quickly dispatching what was placed before
+us; and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting down, we
+were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that afternoon's
+ramble. The sun seemed to become more of a golden hue, and the atmosphere
+to increase in clearness and serenity. A thousand little songsters were
+warbling in the full-leaved branches of the trees; while the mingled notes
+of the _blanchisseuses_ and the milk-maids, near the banks of the rippling
+stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous harmony--as we gazed
+down from the overhanging heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep, and
+the orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may form some notion of the
+value of this rich and picturesque scenery, when I tell you that M. de
+Larenaudiere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which lets
+per acre at the rate of _6l._ _6s._ English. My guide was all gaiety of
+heart, and activity of step. I followed him through winding paths and
+devious tracks, amidst coppice-wood and fern--not however till I had
+viewed, from one particular spot upon the heights, a most commanding and
+interesting panorama of the town of Vire.
+
+In our perambulation, we discoursed of English poetry; and I found that
+THOMSON was as great a favourite with my guide as with the rest of his
+countrymen. Indeed he frankly told me that he had translated him into
+French verse, and intended to publish his translation. I urged him to quote
+specimens; which he did with a readiness and force, and felicity of
+version, that quite delighted me. He thoroughly understands the original;
+and in the description of a cataract, or mountain torrent, from the Summer,
+he appeared to me almost to surpass it. My guide then proceeded to quote
+Young and Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two great Whig and Tory
+Reviews. He said he preferred the politics and vivacity of the _Edinburgh_,
+but thought the _Quarterly_ more instructive and more carefully written.
+"Enfin (he concluded) j'aime infiniment votre gouvernement, et vos
+ecrivains; mais j'aime moins le peuple Anglois." I replied that he had at
+least very recently shewn an exception to this opinion, in his treatment of
+_one_ among this _very_ people. "C'est une autre chose"--replied he
+briskly, and laughingly--"vous allez voir deux de vos compatriotes, qui
+sont mes intimes, et vous en serez bien content!" So saying, we continued
+our route through a delightful avenue of beech-trees, upon the most
+elevated part within the vicinity of the town; and my companion bade me
+view from thence the surrounding country. It was rich and beautiful in the
+extreme; and with perfect truth, I must say, resembled much more strongly
+the generality of our own scenery than what I had hitherto witnessed in
+Normandy. But the sun was beginning to cast his shadows broader and
+broader, and where was the residence of Monsieur and Madame S----?
+
+It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a quarter of an hour--but the
+inmates were unluckily from home. The house is low and long, but
+respectable in appearance both within and without. The approach to it is
+through a pretty copse, terminated by a garden; and the surrounding grounds
+are rather tastefully laid out. A portion of it indeed had been trained
+into something in the shape of a labyrinth; in the centre of which was a
+rocky seat, embedded as it were in moss--and from which some fine glimpses
+were caught of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the orchard
+trees, which had not yet quite shed their blossoms, was perfectly
+delicious; while the stillness of evening added to the peculiar harmony of
+the whole. We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before Madame arrived. She
+had been twelve years in France, and spoke her own language so imperfectly,
+or rather so unintelligibly, that I begged of her to resume the French. Her
+reception of us was most hospitable: but we declined cakes and wine, on
+account of the lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband was in
+possession of from fourscore to a hundred acres of the most productive
+land; and regretted that he was from home, on a visit to a neighbouring
+gentleman; assuring us, if we could stay, that he would be heartily glad to
+see us--"especially any of his _countrymen_, when introduced by Monsieur de
+Larenaudiere." It was difficult to say who smiled and bowed with the
+greater complacency, at this double-shotted compliment. I now pressed our
+retreat homewards. We bade this agreeable lady farewell, and returned down
+the heights, and through the devious paths by which we had ascended,
+
+  While talk of various kind deceived the road.
+
+A more active and profitable day has not yet been devoted to Norman
+objects, whether of art or of nature. Tomorrow I breakfast with my friend
+and guide, and immediately afterwards push on for FALAISE. A cabriolet is
+hired, but doubts are entertained respecting the practicability of the
+route. My next epistle will be therefore from Falaise--where the renowned
+William the Conqueror was born, whose body we left entombed at Caen. The
+day is clearing up; and I yet hope for a stroll upon the site of the
+castle.
+
+
+
+[160] "_Les Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Francais, par Aug.
+    A_. Se vend a Vire, chez Adam imprimeur-lib. An. 1809. The reader may
+    not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these
+    distichs into French verse:
+
+      1.
+      Dum tener es, MURETE, avidis haec auribus hauri:
+      Nec memori modo conde animo, sed et exprime factis.
+
+      2.
+      Imprimis venerare Deum; venerare parentes:
+      Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum.
+      &c.
+
+      1.
+      _Jeune encore, o mon fils! pour etre homme de bien,
+      Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien_.
+
+      2.
+      _Sers, honors le Dieu qui crea tous les etres;
+      Sois fils respectueux, sois docile a tes maitres.
+      &c_.
+
+[161] [Smartly and felicitously rendered by my translator Mons. Licquet;
+    "Jamais bouche Normande ne m'avait paru plus eloquente que celle de M.
+    Adam." vol. ii. p. 220.]
+
+[162] The present seems to be the proper place to give the reader some
+    account of this once famous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that
+    France rests her pretensions to poetical celebrity upon such claims.
+    Love, romantic adventures, gaiety of heart and of disposition, form
+    the chief materials of her minor poems; but we have here before us, in
+    the person and productions of OLIVIER BASSELIN, a rival to ANACREON of
+    old; to our own RICHARD BRAITHWAIT, VINCENT BOURNE, and THOMAS MOORE.
+    As this volume may not be of general notoriety, the reader may be
+    prepared to receive an account of its contents with the greater
+    readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and occupations
+    of Olivier Basselin; which, as Goujet has entirely passed over all
+    notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of the present
+    edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a _Virois_;
+    in other words, an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he had a
+    strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate
+    vicinity of Vire--its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky
+    recesses--to a more open and more distant residence. In such places,
+    therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his flagons of
+    wine. Thither he resorted with his "boon and merry companions," and
+    there he poured forth his ardent and unpremeditated strains. These
+    "strains" all savoured of the jovial propensities of their author; it
+    being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether connected with
+    friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions. He was the
+    thorough-bred Anacreon of France at the close of the fifteenth
+    century.
+
+    The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is
+    the chief town of that department of Normandy called the BOCAGE; and
+    in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated than
+    the _Vaux de Vire_; on account of the number of manufactories which
+    have existed there from time immemorial. It derives its name from two
+    principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it may be
+    so called--"jambage") rests upon the _Place du Chateau de Vire_. It is
+    sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among the
+    fauxbourgs. The rivers _Vire_ and _Virene_, which unite at the bridge
+    of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are
+    flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the XVth
+    century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition.
+    Indeed, BASSELIN himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this
+    valley he passed his life in fulling his cloths, and "in composing
+    those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume under
+    consideration." _Discours Preliminaire_, p. 17, &c. Olivier Basselin
+    is the parent of the title _Vaudevire--_which has since been corrupted
+    into _Vaudeville_. From the observation of his critics, Basselin
+    appears to have been the FATHER of BACCHANALIAN POETRY in France. He
+    frequented public festivals, and was a welcome guest at the tables of
+    the rich; where the Vaudevire was in such request, that it is supposed
+    to have superseded the "Conte, or Fabliau, or the Chanson d'Amour."[B]
+    p. xviij:
+
+      Sur ce point-la, soyez tranquille:
+      Nos neveux, j'en suis bien certain,
+      Se souviendront de BASSELIN,
+      _Pere joyeux du Vaudeville:_ p. xxiij.
+
+    I proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this ancient
+    ANACREON of France; and must necessarily begin with a few of those
+    that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE II_.
+
+      AYANT le doz au feu et le ventre a la table,
+      Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin delectable,
+         Ainsi comme ung poulet
+      Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie,
+      Quant en debvroye avoir la face cramoisie
+         Et le nez violet;
+
+      QUANT mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou perse,
+      Porteray les couleurs que cherit ma maitresse.
+         Le vin rent le teint beau.
+      Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive,
+      Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et chetive
+         Ainsi qu'ung beuveur d'eau.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XI_.
+
+      CERTES _hoc vinum est bonus_:
+      Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille,
+      Se bien congru n'estoit ce jus,
+      Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille.
+      Escolier j'appris que bon vin
+      Aide bien au maulvais latin.
+
+      CESTE sentence praticquant,
+      De latin je n'en appris guere;
+      Y pensant estre assez scavant,
+      Puisque bon vin aimoye a boire.
+      Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu,
+      Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru.
+      Fy du latin, parlons francois,
+      Je m'y recongnois davantaige.
+      Je vueil boire une bonne fois,
+      Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige;
+      Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent,
+      Je deviendroye fort eloquent.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XXII_.
+
+        HE! qu'avons-nous affaire
+        Du Turc ny du Sophy,
+           Don don.
+        Pourveu que j'aye a boire,
+        Des grandeurs je dis fy.
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium._
+
+        QUI songe en vin ou vigne,
+        Est ung presaige heureux,
+           Don don.
+        Le vin a qui rechigne
+        Rent le coeur tout joyeux,
+           Don don.
+      Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon:
+      _Hoc acuit ingenium_.
+         &c.
+
+    The poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the celebration of
+    the physical effects of wine upon the body and animal spirits; and the
+    gentler emotions of the TENDER PASSION are rarely described in his
+    numbers. In consequence, he has not invoked the Goddess of Beauty to
+    associate with the God of Wine: to
+
+      "Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl;"
+
+    or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is
+    done after the following fashion--which discovers however an extreme
+    facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems
+    wonderfully accordant with a Bacchanalian note.
+
+      _VAUDEVIRE XIX_.
+
+      En ung jardin d'ombraige tout couvert,
+      Au chaud du jour, ay treuve Madalaine,
+      Qui pres le pie d'ung sicomorre vert
+      Dormoit au bort d'une claire fontaine;
+      Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine.
+      Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien cache:
+         D'amour touche,
+      Pour contempler sa beaute souveraine
+      Incontinent je m'en suys approche.
+         Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille,
+         Voicy vin excellent
+         Qui faict lever l'oreille;
+         Il faict mol qui n'en prent.
+
+      Je n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant,
+      De m'abstenir de baizotter sa bouche;
+      Si bien qu'enfin la belle s'esveillant,
+      Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche,
+      Me dit ces mots: Biberon, ne me touche.
+      Belle fillette a son aize ne couche
+      Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu'yvrongner,
+         &c.  &c.
+
+    The preceding extracts will suffice. This is a volume in every respect
+    interesting--both to the literary antiquary and to the Book-Collector.
+    A NEW EDITION of this work has appeared under the editorial care of M.
+    Louis Dubois, published at Caen in 1821, 8vo. obtainable at a very
+    moderate price.
+
+      [B] The host, at these public and private festivals, usually called
+      upon some one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or
+      chivalrous character; and this custom prevailed more particularly in
+      Normandy than in other parts of France:
+
+        Usaige est en Normandie,
+        Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die
+        Fable ou Chanson a son oste.
+
+      See the authorities cited at page XV, of this Discours preliminaire.
+
+[163] Some account of this printer, together with a fac-simile of his
+    device, may be seen in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii.
+    p. 33-6.
+
+[164] The first publication is entitled "_Essai sur l'Histoire de
+    l'Industrie du Bocage en General et de la Ville de Vire sa capitale en
+    particulier, &c._" Par M. RICHARD SEGUIN. _A Vire, chez Adam,
+    Imprimeur, an_ 1810, 12mo. It is not improbable that I may have
+    been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly-paged duodecimo
+    volume; which presents us with so varied and animated a picture of the
+    manners, customs, trades, and occupations of the Bocains and the
+    Virois.
+
+[165] I subjoin an extract which relates to the
+
+        DRESS AND CHARACTER OF THE WOMEN.
+
+        "Quant au COSTUME DES FEMMES d'aujourd'hui, comme il faudrait un
+        volume entier pour le decrire, je n'ai pas le courage de m'engager
+        dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolites. Ce que j'en dirai
+        seulement en general, c'est qu'autant les femmes du temps passe,
+        etaient decentes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire d'etre graves
+        et modestes, autant celles de notre siecle mettent tout en oeuvre
+        pour paraitre cyniques et voluptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au
+        temps ou les plus grandes dames se faisaient honneur de porter la
+        cordeliere.[C] Leurs habillemens etaient aussi larges et fermes,
+        que celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et legers, et d'une
+        finesse que les formes du corps, au moindre mouvement, se
+        dessinent, de maniere a ne laisser rien ignorer. A peine se
+        couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent tres-leger ou de je
+        ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-a-jour, qui, en
+        couvrant tout, ne cache rien; en sorte que si elles n'etalent pas
+        tous leurs charmes a decouvert, c'est que les hommes les moins
+        scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en seraient
+        revoltes tout-a-fait. D'ailleurs, c'est que ce n'est pas encore la
+        mode; plusieurs poussent meme l'impudence jusqu'a venir dans nos
+        temples sans coiffure, les cheveux herisses comme des furies;
+        d'autres, par une bizarrerie qu'on ne peut expliquer se
+        depouillent, autant qu'il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur
+        propre sexe, sembleut rougir d'etre femmes, et deviennent
+        ridicules en voulant paraitre demi-hommes.
+
+        "Apres avoir deshonore l'habit des femmes, elles ont encore voulu
+        prostituer CELUI DES HOMMES. On les a vues adopter successivement
+        les chapeaux, les redingotes, les vestes, les gilets, les bottes
+        et jusqu'aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jupons, elles avaient
+        pu s'accommoder de l'usage de la culotte, la metamorphose etait
+        complette; mais elles ont prefere les robes trainantes; c'est
+        dommage que la nature ne leur ait donne une troisieme main, qui
+        leur serait necessaire pour tenir cette longue queue, qui souvent
+        patrouille la boue ou balaye la poussiere. Plut a Dieu que les
+        anciennes lois fussent encore en vigueur, ou ceux et celles qui
+        portaient des habits indecent etaient obliges d'aller a Rome pour
+        en obtenir l'absolution, qui ne pouvait leur etre accordee que par
+        le souverain pontife, &c.
+
+        "Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroises, joignent a un
+        esprit vif et enjoue les qualites du corps les plus estimables.
+        Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre, elles sont de la
+        moyenne taille, mais bien formees: elles ont le teint frais et
+        fleuri, l'oeil vif, le visage vermeil, la demarche leste, un air
+        etoffe et tres elegantes dans tout leur maintien. Si on dit avec
+        raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les filles du Bocage, qui
+        sont leurs voisines, ne leur cedent en aucune maniere, car en
+        general le sang est tres-beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens
+        spirituels, elles les possedent a un degre eminent. Elles parlent
+        avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins du
+        menage, ou elles excellent de telle sorte qu'il n'y a point de
+        contrees ou il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent a merveille,
+        et font avec succes tout le detail du commerce." p. 238.
+
+    These passages, notwithstanding the amende honorable of the concluding
+    paragraph, raised a storm of indignation against the unsuspecting
+    author! Nor can we be surprised at it.
+
+    This publication is really filled with a great variety of curious
+    historical detail--throughout which is interspersed much that relates
+    to "romaunt lore" and romantic adventures. The civil wars between
+    MONTGOMERY and MATIGNON form alone a very important and interesting
+    portion of the volume; and it is evident that the author has exerted
+    himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both
+    parties--except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against
+    the Hugonots.[D] I will quote the concluding passage of this work.
+    There may be at least half a score readers who may think it something
+    more than merely historically curious:
+
+        "Je finirai donc ici mon Histoire. Je n'ai point parle d'un grand
+        nombre des faits d'armes et d'actions glorieuses, qui se sont
+        passes dans la guerre de l'independance des Etats-Unis d'Amerique
+        ou beaucoup de Bocains ont eu part; mais mon principal dessein a
+        ete de traiter des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi
+        je crois avoir atteint mon but, qui etait d'ecrire l'Histoire
+        Militaire des Bocains par des faits et non par des phrases, je ne
+        peux cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage;
+        c'est la visite que le bon et infortune Louis XVI. fit aux Bocains
+        en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues etaient aussi sages que
+        profondes, avait resolu de faire construire le beau Port de
+        Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles
+        entreprises qui aient ete faites depuis l'origine de la Monarchie.
+        Les Bocains sentirent l'avantage d'un si grand bienfait. Le Roi
+        venant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme
+        presqu'impossible a decrire, ainsi que les Princes qui
+        l'accompagnaient. Sa marche rassemblait a un triomphe. Les peuples
+        accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route,
+        faisant retentir les airs de chants d'alegresse et des cris
+        millions de fois repetes de Vive le Roi! Musique, Processions,
+        Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonches de fleurs; tout fut prodigue.
+        Les villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de
+        Valognes, se surpasserent dans cette occasion, pour prouver a S.M.
+        leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant
+        que l'entree de ce grand Roi a Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le
+        clerge, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du
+        canon, les acclamations universelles prouverent au Monarque mieux
+        encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fetes magnifiques que la
+        ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de
+        tous les Bocains etaient a lui." p. 428.
+
+      [C] "Ceinture alors regardee comme le symbole de la continence. La
+      reine de France en decorait les femmes titrees dont la conduite
+      etait irreprochable." _Hist. de la reun. de Bretagne a la France
+      par l'abbe Irail_.
+
+      [D] "Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes
+      sortes de cruautes, d'infamies et de sacrileges, jusqu'a meler les
+      Saintes Hosties avec l'avoine qu'ils donnaient a leurs chevaux: mais
+      Dieu permit qu'ils n'en voulurent pas manger." p. 369.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+DEPARTURE FROM VIRE. CONDE. PONT OUILLY. ARRIVAL AT FALAISE. HOTEL OF THE
+GRAND TURC. THE CASTLE OF FALAISE. BIBLIOMANIACAL INTERVIEW.
+
+_Falaise_.
+
+
+Here I am--or rather, here I have been--my most excellent friend, for the
+last four days--and from hence you will receive probably the last despatch
+from NORMANDY--- from the "land (as I told you in my first epistle) of
+"castles, churches, and ancient chivalry." An old, well-situated,
+respectably-inhabited, and even flourishing, town--the birth-place too of
+our renowned FIRST WILLIAM:--weather, the most serene and inviting--and
+hospitality, thoroughly hearty, and after the English fashion:--these have
+all conspired to put me in tolerably good spirits. My health, too, thank
+God, has been of late a little improved. You wish me to continue the thread
+of my narrative unbroken; and I take it up therefore from the preparation
+for my departure from Vire.
+
+I breakfasted, as I told you I was about to do, with my friend and guide
+Mons. de Larenaudiere; who had prepared quite a sumptuous repast for our
+participation. Coffee, eggs, sweetmeats, cakes, and all the comfortable
+paraphernalia of an inviting breakfast-table, convinced us that we were in
+well-furnished and respectable quarters. Madame did the honours of the meal
+in perfectly good taste; and one of the loveliest children I ever saw--a
+lad, of about five or six years of age--with a profusion of hair of the
+most delicate quality and colour, gave a sort of joyous character to our
+last meal at Vire. The worthy host told me  to forget him, when I reached
+my own country;[166] and that, if ever business or pleasure brought me
+again into Normandy, to remember that the Maire de Tallevende-le-Petit
+would-be always happy to renew his assurances of hospitality. At the same
+time, he entreated me to pay attention to a list of English books which he
+put into my hands; and of which he stood considerably in need. We bade
+farewell in the true English fashion, by a hearty shake of the hands; and,
+mounting our voiture, gave the signal for departure. "Au plaisir de vous
+revoir!"--'till a turning of the carriage deprived us of the sight of each
+other. It is not easy--and I trust it is not natural--for me to forget the
+last forty-eight hours spent in the interesting town of VIRE!
+
+Our route to this place was equally grand and experimental; grand, as to
+the width of the road, and beauty of the surrounding country--but
+experimental, inasmuch as a part of the _route royale_ had been broken up,
+and rendered wholly impassable for carriages of any weight. Our own, of its
+kind, was sufficiently light; with a covering of close wicker-work, painted
+after the fashion of some of our bettermost tilted carts. One Norman horse,
+in full condition of flesh, with an equal portion of bone and muscle, was
+to convey us to this place, which cannot be less than twenty-two good long
+English miles from Vire. The carriage had no springs; and our seat was
+merely suspended by pieces of leather fastened at each end. At _Conde_,
+about one-third of the distance, we baited, to let both man and horse
+breathe over their dinners; while, strolling about that prettily situated
+little town, we mingled with the inhabitants, and contemplated the various
+faces (it being market-day) with no ordinary degree of gratification.
+Amidst the bustle and variety of the scene, our ears were greeted by the
+air of an itinerant ballad-singer: nor will you be displeased if I send you
+a copy of it:--since it is gratifying to find any thing like a return to
+the good old times of the sixteenth century.
+
+  VIVE LE ROI, VIVE L'AMOUR.
+
+  Francois Premier, nous dit l'histoire,
+  Etoit la fleur des Chevaliers,
+  Pres d'Etampes aux champs de gloire
+  Il recueillit myrtes et lauriers;
+  Sa maitresse toujours fidele,
+  Le payant d'un tendre retour,
+  Lui chantant cette ritournelle;
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Henri, des princes le modele,
+  Ton souvenir est dans nos coeurs,
+  Par la charmante Gabrielle
+  Ton front fut couronne de fleurs;
+  De la Ligue domptant la rage,
+  Tu sus triompher tour-a-tour,
+  Par la clemence et ton courage:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  Amant cheri de la Valliere,
+  Des ennemis noble vainqueur,
+  LOUIS savoit combattre et plaire,
+  Guide par l'Amour et l'honneur;
+  A son retour de la Victoire,
+  Entoure d'une aimable cour,
+  Il entendoit ce cri de gloire:
+  _Vive le Roi, vive l'Amour_.
+
+  &c.
+
+There was a freshness of tint, and a comeliness of appearance, among the
+bourgeoises and common people, which were not to be eclipsed even by the
+belles of Coutances. Our garcon de poste and his able-bodied quadruped
+having each properly recruited themselves, we set forward--by
+preference--to walk up the very long and somewhat steep hill which rises on
+the other side of Conde towards _Pont Ouilly_--in the route hither. Perhaps
+this was the most considerable ascent we had mounted on foot, since we had
+left Rouen. The view from the summit richly repaid the toil of using our
+legs. It was extensive, fruitful, and variegated; but neither rock nor
+mountain scenery; nor castles, nor country seats; nor cattle, nor the
+passing traveller--served to mark or to animate it. It was still, pure
+nature, upon a vast and rich scale: and as the day was fine, and my spirits
+good, I was resolved to view and to admire.
+
+_Pont Ouilly_ lies in a hollow; with a pretty winding river, which seems to
+run through its centre. The surrounding hills are gently undulating; and as
+we descended to the Inn, we observed, over the opposite side of the town,
+upon the summit of one of the hills, a long procession of men and
+women--headed by an ecclesiastic, elevating a cross--who were about to
+celebrate, at some little distance, one of their annual festivals. The
+effect--as the procession came in contact with a bright blue sky, softened
+by distance--was uncommonly picturesque ... but the day was getting on
+fast, and there was yet a considerable distance to perform,--while, in
+addition, we had to encounter the most impassable part of the road.
+Besides, I had not yet eaten a morsel since I had left Vire. Upon holding a
+consultation, therefore, it was resolved to make for the inn, and to dine
+there. A more sheltered, rural, spot cannot be conceived. It resembled very
+many of the snug scenes in South Wales. Indeed the whole country was of a
+character similar to many parts of Monmouthshire; although with a miserable
+draw-back in respect to the important feature of _wood_. Through the whole
+of Normandy, you miss those grand and overshadowing masses of oak, which
+give to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of Glocester, that rich
+and majestic appearance which so decidedly marks the character of those
+counties. However, we are now at the inn at Pont Ouilly. A dish of river
+fish, gudgeons, dace, and perch, was speedily put in requisition. Good
+wine, "than which France could boast no better!" and a roast fowl, which
+the daughter of the hostess "knew how to dress to admiration" ... was all
+that this humble abode could afford us." "But we were welcome:"--that is,
+upon condition that we paid our reckoning....
+
+The dinner would be ready in a "short half hour." Mr. Lewis, went to the
+bridge, to look around, for the purpose of exercising his pencil: while I
+sauntered more immediately about the house. Within five minutes a
+well-looking, and even handsome, young woman--of an extremely fair
+complexion--her hair cut close behind--her face almost smothered in a white
+cap which seemed of crape--and habited in a deep black--passed quickly by
+me, and ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humble
+mansion. She smiled graciously at the _aubergiste_ as she passed her, and
+quickly disappeared. On enquiry, I was told that she was a nun, who, since
+the suppression of the convent to which she had belonged, earned her
+livelihood by teaching some of the more respectable children in the
+village. She had just completed her twentieth year. I was now addressed by
+a tall, bluff, shabby-looking man--who soon led me to understand that he
+was master of the inn where my "suite" was putting up;--that I had been
+egregiously deceived about the nature of the road--for that it was totally
+impossible for _one_ horse:--even the very best in Normandy--(and where
+will you find better? added he, parenthetically--as I here give it to you)
+to perform the journey with such a voiture and such a weight of luggage
+behind." I was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence.
+The unpitying landlord saw my consternation. "Hark you, sir... (rejoined
+he) if you _must_ reach Falaise this evening, there is only one method of
+doing it. You must have _another horse_." "Willingly," I replied. "Yes,
+sir--but you can have it only upon _one_ condition." "What is that?" "I
+have some little business at Falaise myself. Allow me to strap about one
+hundred weight of loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myself
+will be your garcon de poste thither." I own I thought him about the most
+impudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy: but there was no time for
+resistance. Necessity compelled acquiescence. Accordingly, the dinner being
+dispatched--which, though good, was charged at six francs a-head--we
+prepared for our departure.
+
+But judge of my surprise and increased consternation, when the fellow
+ordered forth a little runt of a quadruped--in the shape of a horse--which
+was hardly higher than the lower part of the chest of the animal which
+brought us from Vire! I remonstrated. The landlord expostulated. I
+resisted--but the fellow said it was a bargain; and proceeded quietly to
+deposit at least _two_ hundred weight of his refined sugar at the back of
+the carriage. This Lilliputian horse was made the leader. The landlord
+mounted on the front seat, with our Vire post-boy by the side of him; and
+sounding his whip, with a most ear-piercing whoop and hollow, we sprung
+forward for Falaise--which we were told we should reach before sunset. You
+can hardly conceive the miseries of this cross-road journey. The route
+royale was, in fact, completely impassable; because they were repairing it.
+Alarmed at the ruggedness of the cross-road, where one wheel was in a rut
+of upwards of a foot deep, and the other elevated in proportion--we got
+out, and resolved to push on a-foot. We walked for nearly two leagues,
+before our conveyance overtook us--so harassing and so apparently
+insurmountable seemed to be the road. But the cunning aubergiste had now
+got rid of his leader. He said that it was only necessary to use it for the
+first two or three leagues--which was the most difficult part of the
+route--and that, for the remainder, about five English miles, our "fine
+Norman horse" was perfectly sufficient. This fine Norman horse was
+treated most unmercifully by him. He flogged, he hallooed, he swore ...
+the animal tript, stumbled, and fell upon his knees--more than
+once--from sheer fatigue. The charioteer hallooed and flogged again: and
+I thought we must have taken up our night quarters in the
+high-way;--when suddenly, to the left, I saw the fine warm glow of the
+sun, which had set about twenty minutes, lighting up one of the most
+perfect round towers, of an old castle, that I had yet seen in Normandy.
+Voila FALAISE!--exclaimed the ruthless charioteer; ... and in a quarter
+of an hour we trotted hard down a hill (after the horse had been twice
+again upon his knees) which terminated in this most interesting place.
+
+It will be difficult for me to forget--after such a long, wearisome, and in
+part desperate journey--our approach to Falaise:--and more especially the
+appearance of the castle just mentioned. The stone seemed as fresh, and as
+perfectly cemented, as if it had been the work of the preceding year.
+Moreover, the contiguous parts were so fine and so thoroughly
+picturesque--and the superadded tradition of its being, according to some,
+the birth place--and according to others, the usual residence--of WILLIAM
+THE CONQUEROR ... altogether threw a charm about the first glimpse of this
+venerable pile, which cannot be easily described. I had received
+instructions to put up at the "_Grand Turc_"--as the only hotel worthy an
+Englishman's notice. At the door of the Grand Turk, therefore, we were
+safely deposited: after having got rid of our incumbrances of two
+postilions, and two hundred weight of refined sugar. Our reception was
+gracious in the extreme. The inn appeared "tout-a-fait a la mode
+Anglaise"--and no marvel ... for Madame the hostess was an Englishwoman.
+Her husband's name was _David_.
+
+Bespeaking a late cup of tea, I strolled through the principal
+streets,--delighted with the remarkably clear current of the water, which
+ran on each side from the numerous overcharged fountains. Day-light had
+wholly declined; when, sitting down to my souchong, I saw, with
+astonishment--a _pair of sugar-tongs_ and a _salt-spoon_--the first of the
+kind I had beheld since I left England! Madame David enjoyed my surprise;
+adding, in a very droll phraseology, that she had "not forgotten good
+English customs." Our beds and bed rooms were perfectly comfortable, and
+even elegant.
+
+The moat which encircles, not only the castle, but the town--and which must
+have been once formidable from its depth and breadth, when filled with
+water--is now most pleasingly metamorphosed. Pasture lands, kitchen
+gardens, and orchards, occupy it entirely. Here the cattle quietly stray,
+and luxuriously feed. But the metamorphosis of the _castle_ has been, in an
+equal degree, unfortunate. The cannon balls, during the wars of the
+League--and the fury of the populace, with the cupidity or caprice of
+some individuals, during the late revolution--helped to produce this
+change. After breakfast, I felt a strong desire to survey carefully the
+scite and structure of the castle. It was a lovely day; and in five
+minutes I obtained admission at a temporary outer gate. The first near
+view within the ramparts perfectly enchanted me. The situation is at
+once bold, commanding, and picturesque. But as the opposite, and
+immediately contiguous ground, is perhaps yet a little higher, it should
+follow that a force, placed upon such eminence--as indeed was that of
+Henry the Fourth, during the wars of the League--would in the end subdue
+the garrison, or demolish the castle. I walked here and there amidst
+briars and brushwood, diversified with lilacs and laburnums; and by the
+aid of the guide soon got within an old room--of which the outer walls
+only remained--and which is distinguished by being called the
+_birth-place_ of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR.
+
+Between ourselves, the castle appears to be at least a century later than
+the time of William the Conqueror; and certainly the fine round tower, of
+which such frequent mention has been made, is rather of the fourteenth, if
+not of the beginning of the fifteenth century;[167] but it is a noble piece
+of masonry. The stone is of a close grain and beautiful colour, and the
+component parts are put together with a hard cement, and with the smallest
+possible interstices. At the top of it, on the left side, facing the high
+road from Vire,--and constructed within the very walls themselves, is a
+_well_--which goes from the top apparently to the very bottom of the
+foundation, quite to the bed of the moat. It is about three feet in
+diameter, measuring with the eye; perhaps four: but it is doubtless a very
+curious piece of workmanship. We viewed with an inquisitive eye what
+remained of the _Donjon_: sighed, as we surveyed the ruins of the
+_chapel_--a very interesting little piece of ecclesiastical antiquity:
+and shuddered as we contemplated the enormous and ponderous
+portcullis--which had a _drop of_ full twenty feet ... to keep out the
+invading foe. I was in truth delighted with this first reconnoissance of
+FALAISE--beneath one of the brightest and bluest skies of Normandy!
+and--within walls, which were justly considered to be among the most
+perfect as well as the most ancient of those in Normandy.
+
+Leaving my companion to take a view of the upper part of this venerable
+building, I retreated towards the town--resolved to leave no church and no
+street unexplored. On descending, and quitting the gate by which I had
+entered, a fine, robust, and respectable figure, habited as an
+Ecclesiastic, met and accosted me. I was most prompt to return the
+salutation. "We are proud, Sir, of our castle, and I observe you have been
+visiting it. The English ought to take an interest in it, since it was the
+birth-place of William the Conqueror." I readily admitted it was well worth
+a minute examination: but as readily turned the conversation to the subject
+of LIBRARIES. The amiable stranger (for he was gaining upon me fast, by his
+unaffected manners and sensible remarks) answered, that "their _own_ public
+library existed no longer--having been made subservient to the
+inquisitorial visit of M. Moysant of Caen[168]: that he had himself
+procured for the Bishop of Bayeux the _Mentz Bible_ of 1462--and that the
+Chapter-Library of Bayeux, before the Revolution, could not have contained
+fewer than 40,000 volumes. "But you are doubtless acquainted, Sir, with the
+COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE, who resides in yonder large mansion?"--pointing to a
+house upon an elevated spot on the other side of the town. I replied that I
+had not that honour; and was indeed an utter stranger to every inhabitant
+of Falaise. I then stated, in as few and precise words as possible, the
+particular object of my visit to the Continent. "Cela suffit"--resumed the
+unknown--"nous irons faire visite a Monsieur le Comte apres le dine; a ce
+moment il s'occupe avec le potage--car c'est un jour maigre. Il sera charme
+de vous recevoir. Il aime infiniment les Anglois, et il a reste long-temps
+chez vous. C'est un brave homme--et meme un grand antiquaire."
+
+My pulse and colour increased sensibly as the stranger uttered these latter
+words: and he concluded by telling me that he was himself the Cure of _Ste.
+Trinite_ one of the two principal churches of the town--and that his name
+was MOUTON. Be assured that I shall not lose sight of the Comte de la
+Fresnaye, and Monsieur Mouton.
+
+
+[166] [Only ONE letter has passed between us since my departure; and that
+    enables me to subjoin a fac-simile of its author's autograph.
+
+    [Autograph: de Larenaudiere]
+
+[167] [It was in fact built by the famous Lord Talbot, about the year 1420.
+    A similar castle, but less strong and lofty, may be seen at Castor,
+    near Yarmouth in Norfolk--once the seat of the famous Sir JOHN
+    FASTOLF, (a contemporary with Talbot) of whom Anstis treats so fully
+    in his _Order of the Garter_, vol.i. p.142.]
+
+[168] See p. 205 ante.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+MONS. MOUTON. CHURCH OF STE. TRINITE. COMTE DE LA FRESNAYE. GUIBRAY CHURCH.
+SUPPOSED HEAD OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR. M. LANGEVIN, HISTORIAN OF FALAISE.
+PRINTING OFFICES.
+
+
+I lose no time in the fulfilment of my promise. The church of SAINTE
+TRINITE, of which Monsieur Mouton is the Cure, is the second place of
+worship in rank in the town. During the Revolution, Mons. Mouton was
+compelled, with too many of his professional brethren, to fly from the
+general persecution of his order. One solitary and most amiable creature
+only remained; of the name of LANGEVIN--of whom, by and by, Monsieur Mouton
+did me the honour of shewing me the interior of his church. His stipend (as
+he told me) did not exceed 1500 francs per annum; and it is really
+surprising to observe to what apparent acts of generosity towards his
+flock, this income is made subservient. You shall hear. The altar consists
+of two angels of the size of life, kneeling very gracefully, in white
+glazed plaister: in the centre, somewhat raised above, is a figure of the
+Virgin, of the same materials; above which again, is a representation of
+the TRINITY--in a blaze of gilt. The massive circular columns surrounding
+the choir--probably of the fourteenth century--were just fresh painted, at
+the expense of the worthy Cure, in alternate colours of blue and
+yellow--imitative of marble;--that is to say, each column, alternately, was
+blue and yellow. It was impossible to behold any thing more glaring and
+more tasteless. I paid my little tribute of admiration at the simplicity
+and grace of the kneeling figure of the Virgin--but was stubbornly silent
+about every thing else. Monsieur Mouton replied that "he intended to grace
+the brows of the angels by putting a _garland_ round each." I felt a sort
+of twinge upon receiving this intelligence; but there is no persuading the
+French to reject, or to qualify, their excessive fondness for flower
+ornaments.
+
+Projecting from the wall, behind the circular part of the choir, I observed
+a figure of _St. Sebastian_--precisely of that character which we remark in
+the printed missals of the fifteenth century,--and from which the engravers
+of that period copied them: namely, with the head large, the body meagre,
+and the limbs loose and muscular. It was plentifully covered, as was the
+whole surface of the wall, with recent white wash. On observing this, my
+guide added: "oui, et je veux le faire couvrir d'une teinte encore plus
+blanche!" Here I felt a second twinge yet more powerful than the first. I
+noticed, towards the south-side door, a very fine crucifix, cut in wood,
+about three feet high; and apparently of the time of Goujon. It was by much
+the finest piece of sculpture, of its kind, which I had seen in Normandy;
+but it was rather in a decaying state. I wished to know whether such an
+object of art--apparently of no earthly importance, where it was
+situated--might be obtained for some honourable and adequate compensation.
+Monsieur Mouton replied that he desired to part with it--but that it must
+be replaced by another "full six feet high!" There was no meeting this
+proposition, and I ceased to say another word upon the subject.
+
+Upon the whole, the church of the Holy Trinity is rather a fine and
+capacious, than a venerable edifice; and although I cannot conscientiously
+approve of the beautifying and repairing which are going on therein, yet I
+will do the _planner_ the justice to say, that a more gentlemanly,
+liberally-minded, and truly amiable clergyman is perhaps no where to be
+found,--within or without the diocese to which he belongs. Attached to the
+north transept or side door, parallel with the street, is a long pole.
+"What might this mean?" "Sir, this pole was crowned at the top by a
+garland, and by the white flag of _St. Louis_,[169]--which were hoisted to
+receive me on my return from my long expatriation"--and the eyes of the
+narrator were suffused with tears, as he made the answer! It is of no
+consequence how small the income of an unmarried minister, may be, when he
+thus lives so entirely in the HEARTS OF HIS FLOCK. This church bears
+abundant evidence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of
+the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.: although the most
+essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of the
+fourteenth century.[170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufacture
+of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed in
+the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to our
+vestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which might
+be lying upon the table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: of
+a spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length
+and width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of
+various colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes made
+of wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles an
+Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his own
+country. You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir,
+fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from the
+uses made of them in time of worship. In this sacristy there were two
+little boys swinging _wooden_ censers, by way of practice for the more
+perfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. To
+manage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit of
+observing during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or easy
+attainment.
+
+From the Cure we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantly
+situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by the
+former. Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards _Guibray_, and
+ascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge of
+this large and respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were at
+dinner: but at _three_ they would rise from table. "Meanwhile," said the
+porter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden." It was one of the
+loveliest days imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I had
+scarcely before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs and
+laburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white, purple, and
+yellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a bench, bethought me of
+the strange visit I was about to make--as well as of all the pleasing
+pastoral poetry and painting which I had read in the pages of De Lille, or
+viewed upon the canvas of Watteau. The clock of the church of _St. Gervais_
+struck three; when, starting from my reverie, I knocked at the hall-door,
+and was announced to the family, (who had just risen from dinner) above
+stairs. A circle of five gentlemen would have alarmed a very nervous
+visitor; but the Count, addressing me in a semi-British and semi-Gallic
+phraseology, immediately dissipated my fears. In five minutes he was made
+acquainted with the cause of this apparent intrusion.
+
+Nothing could exceed his amiable frankness. The very choicest wine was
+circulated at his table; of which I partook in a more decided manner on the
+following day--when he was so good as to invite me to dine. When I touched
+upon his favourite theme of Norman Antiquities, he almost shouted aloud the
+name of INGULPH,--that "cher ami de Guillaume le Conquerant!" I was
+unwilling to trespass long; but I soon found the advantage of making use of
+the name of "Monsieur Mouton--l'estimable Cure de la Sainte Trinite."
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In a stroll to Guibray, towards sunset the next day, I passed through a
+considerable portion of the Count's property, about 300 acres, chiefly of
+pasture land. The evening was really enchanting; and through the branches
+of the coppice wood the sun seemed to be setting in a bed of molten gold.
+Our conversation was animated and incessant. In the old and curious church
+of Guibray, the Count shewed us his family pew with the care and
+particularity of an old country squire. Meanwhile Mr. Lewis was making a
+hasty copy of one of the very singular ornaments--representing _Christ
+bearing his cross_--which was suspended against the walls of the altar of a
+side chapel. You have it here. It is frightfully barbarous, and
+characteristic of the capricious style of art which frequently prevailed
+about the year 1520: but the wonder is, how such a wretched performance
+could obtain admission into the sanctuary where it was deposited. It was
+however the pious gift of the vestry woman--who shewed us the interior--and
+who had religiously rescued it, during the Revolution, from the demolition
+of a neighbouring abbey. The eastern end of this church is perhaps as old
+as any ecclesiastical edifice in Normandy;[171] and its exterior (to which
+we could only approach by wading through rank grass as high as our knees)
+is one of the most interesting of its kind. During our admiration of all
+that was curious in this venerable edifice, we were struck by our old
+friends, the _penitents_,--busy in making confession. In more than one
+confessional there were two penitents; and towards one of these, thus
+doubly attended, I saw a very large, athletic, hard-visaged priest
+hastening, just having slipt on his surplice in the vestry. Indeed I had
+been cursorily introduced to him by the Count. It was Saturday evening, and
+the ensuing Sunday was to be marked by some grand procession.
+
+The village-like town of Guibray presents a most singular sight to the eye
+of a stranger. There are numerous little narrow streets, with every window
+closed by wooden shutters, and every door fastened. It appears as if the
+plague had recently raged there, and that the inhabitants had quitted it
+for ever. Not a creature is visible: not a sound is heard: not a mouse
+seems to be stirring. And yet Guibray boasts of the LARGEST FAIR in France,
+save one![172] This, my friend, precisely accounts for the aspect of
+desolation just described. During the intervals of these _triennial_ fairs,
+the greater part of the village is uninhabited: venders and purchasers
+flocking and crowding by hundreds when they take place. In a short, narrow
+street--where nothing animated was to be seen--the Count assured me that
+sometimes, in the course of one morning, several millions of francs were
+spent in the purchase of different wares. We left this very strange place
+with our minds occupied by a variety of reflections: but at any rate highly
+pleased and gratified by the agreeable family which had performed the part
+of guides on the occasion. In the evening, a professor of music treated us
+with some pleasing tunes upon the guitar--which utterly astonished the
+Count--and it was quite night-fall when we returned homewards, towards our
+quarters at the hotel of the _Grand Turc_.
+
+A memorable incident occurred in our way homewards; which, when made known,
+will probably agitate the minds and shake the faith of two-thirds of the
+members of our Society of Antiquaries. You may remember that I told you,
+when at Caen, that the Abbe De la Rue had notified to me what were the
+objects more particularly deserving of attention in my further progress
+through Normandy. Among these, he particularly mentioned a figure or head
+of William the Conqueror at Falaise. In the _Place St. Gervais_, this
+wonderful head was said to exist--and to exist there only. It was at the
+house of an Innkeeper--certainly not moving in the highest circle of his
+calling. I lost little time in visiting it; and found it situated at the
+top of a dark narrow staircase, projecting from the wall, to the right,
+just before you reach the first floor. Some sensation had been excited by
+the enquiries, which I had previously set on foot; and on a second visit,
+several people were collected to receive us. Lights, warm water, towels,
+soap and brushes, were quickly put in requisition. I commenced operations
+with a kitchen knife, by carefully scraping away all the layers of hardened
+white and ochre washes, with which each generation had embedded and almost
+obliterated every feature. By degrees, the hair became manifest: then
+followed the operation of soap and water--which brought out the features of
+the face; and when the eyes fully and distinctly appeared, the exclamation
+of "_Mon Dieu_!" by the spectators, was loud and unremitting. The nose had
+received a serious injury by having its end broken off. Anon, stood forth
+the mouth; and when the "whiskered majesty" of the beard became evident, it
+was quite impossible to repress the simultaneous ejaculation of joy and
+astonishment ... "_Voila le vrai portrait de Guillaume le Conquerant_!
+
+The whiskers apparently denote it to be rather _Saxon_ than _Norman_. The
+head is nearly eleven inches in length, by seven and a half in width: is
+cut upon a very coarse, yet hard-grained stone--and rests upon a square,
+unconnected stone:--embedded within the wall. If it ever had shoulders and
+body, those shoulders and body were no part of the present appendages of
+the head. What then, is the Abbe de la Rue in error? The more liberal
+inference will be, that the Abbe de la Rue had never seen it. As to its
+antiquity, I am prepared to admit it to be very considerable; and, if you
+please, even before the period of the loves of the father and mother of the
+character whom it is supposed to represent. In the morning, Madame Rolle
+seemed disposed to take ten louis (which I freely offered her) for her
+precious fragment: but the distinct, collected view of whiskers, mouth,
+nose, eyes, and hair, instantaneously raised the quicksilver of her
+expectations to "_quinze_ louis pour le moins!" That was infinitely "trop
+fort"--and we parted without coming to any terms. Perhaps you will laugh at
+me for the previous offer.
+
+The church of St. Gervais is called the mother church of the town: and it
+is right that you should have some notion of it. It stands upon a finely
+elevated situation. Its interior is rather capacious: but it has no very
+grand effect-arising from simplicity or breadth of architecture. The
+pillars to the right of the nave, on entering from the western extremity,
+are doubtless old; perhaps of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The
+arches are a flattened semicircle; while those on the opposite side are
+comparatively sharp, and of a considerably later period. The ornaments of
+the capitals of these older pillars are, some of them, sufficiently
+capricious and elaborate; while others are of a more exceptionable
+character on the score of indelicacy. But this does not surprise a man who
+has been accustomed to examine ART, of the middle centuries, whether in
+sculpture or in painting. The side aisles are comparatively modern. The
+pillars of the choir have scarcely any capitals beyond a simple rim or
+fillet; and are surmounted by sharp low arches, like what are to be seen at
+St. Lo and Coutances. The roof of the left side aisle is perfectly green
+from damp: the result, as at Coutances, of thereof having been stripped for
+the sake of the lead to make bullets, &c. during the Revolution. I saw this
+large church completely filled on Sunday, at morning service--about eleven:
+and, in the congregation, I observed several faces and figures, of both
+sexes, which indicated great intelligence and respectability. Indeed there
+was much of the air of a London congregation about the whole.
+
+From the Church, we may fairly make any thing but a digression--in
+discoursing of one of its brightest ornaments, in the person of Monsieur
+LANGEVIN:--a simple priest--as he styles himself in an octavo volume, which
+entitles him to the character of the best living HISTORIAN OF FALAISE. He
+is a mere officiating minister in the church of Mons. Mouton; and his
+salary, as he led me to infer, could be scarcely twenty louis per annum.
+Surely this man is among the most amiable and excellent of God's creatures!
+But it is right that you should know the origin and progress of our
+acquaintance. It was after dinner, on one of the most industriously spent
+of my days here--and the very second of my arrival,--that the waiter
+announced the arrival of the Abbe Langevin, in the passage, with a copy of
+his History beneath his arm. The door opened, and in walked the
+stranger--habited in his clerical garb--with a physiognomy so benign and
+expressive, and with manners so gentle and well-bred,--that I rose
+instinctively from my seat to give him the most cordial reception. He
+returned my civility in a way which shewed at once that he was a man of the
+most interesting simplicity of character. "He was aware (he said) that he
+had intruded; but as he understood "Monsieur was in pursuit of the
+antiquities of the place, he had presumed to offer for his acceptance a
+copy of a work upon that subject--of which he was the humble author." This
+work was a good sized thick crown octavo, filling five hundred closely and
+well-printed pages; and of which the price was _fifty sous_! The worthy
+priest, seeing my surprise on his mentioning the price, supposed that I had
+considered it as rather extravagant. But this error was rectified in an
+instant. I ordered _three copies_ of his historical labours, and told him
+my conscience would not allow me to pay him less than _three francs_ per
+copy. He seemed to be electrified: rose from his seat:--and lifting up one
+of the most expressive of countenances, with eyes apparently suffused with
+tears--raised both his hands, and exclaimed.... "Que le bon Dieu vous
+benisse--les Anglois sont vraiement genereux!"
+
+For several seconds I sat riveted to my seat. Such an unfeigned and warm
+acknowledgment of what I had considered as a mere matter-of-course
+proposition, perfectly astounded me: the more so, as it was accompanied by
+a gesture and articulation which could not fail to move any bosom--not
+absolutely composed of marble. We each rallied, and resumed the
+conversation. In few but simple words he told me his history. He had
+contrived to weather out the Revolution, at Falaise. His former preferment
+had been wholly taken from him; and he was now a simple assistant in the
+church of Mons. Mouton. He had yielded without resistance; as even
+_remonstrance_ would have been probably followed up by the guillotine. To
+solace himself in his afflictions, he had recourse to his old favourite
+studies of _medicine_ and _music_;--and had in fact practised the former.
+"But come, Sir, (says he) come and do me the honour of a call--when it
+shall suit you." I settled it for the ensuing day. On breaking up and
+taking leave, the amiable stranger modestly spoke of his History. It had
+cost him three years' toil; and he seemed to mention, with an air of
+triumph, the frequent references in it to the _Gallia Christiana_, and to
+_Chartularies_ and _Family Records_ never before examined. On the next day
+I carried my projected visit into execution--towards seven in the evening.
+The lodgings of M. Langevin are on the second floor of a house belonging to
+a carpenter. The worthy priest received me on the landing-place, in the
+most cheerful and chatty manner. He has three small rooms on the same
+floor. In the first, his library is deposited. On my asking him to let me
+see what _old books_ he possessed, he turned gaily round, and
+replied--"Comment donc, Monsieur, vous aimez les vieux livres? A ca,
+voyons!" Whereupon he pulled away certain strips or pieces of wainscot, and
+shewed me his book-treasures within the recesses. On my recognising a
+_Colinaeus_ and _Henry Stephen_, ere he had read the title of the volumes,
+he seemed to marvel exceedingly, and to gaze at me as a conjuror. He
+betrayed more than ordinary satisfaction on shewing his _Latin Galen_ and
+_Hippocrates_; and the former, to the best of my recollection, contained
+Latin notes in the margin, written by himself. These tomes were followed up
+by a few upon _alchymy_ and _astrology_; from which, and the consequent
+conversation, I was led to infer that the amiable possessor entertained due
+respect for those studies which had ravished our DEES and ASHMOLES of old.
+
+In the second room stood an upright piano forte--the _manufacture_, as well
+as the property, of Monsieur Langevin. It bore the date of 1806; and was
+considered as the first of the kind introduced into Normandy. It was
+impossible not to be struck with the various rational sources of amusement,
+by means of which this estimable character had contrived to beguile the
+hours of his misfortunes. There was a calm, collected, serenity of manner
+about him--a most unfeigned and unqualified resignation to the divine
+will--which marked him as an object at once of admiration and esteem.
+There was no boast--no cant--no formal sermonising. You _saw_ what
+religion had done for him. Her effects _spake_ in his discourse and in
+his life.... Over his piano hung a portrait of himself; very
+indifferently executed--and not strongly resembling the original. "We
+can do something more faithful than this, sir, if you will allow
+it"--said I, pointing to Mr. Lewis: and it was agreed that he should
+give the latter a sitting on the morrow. The next day M. Langevin came
+punctually to his appointment, for the purpose of having his portrait
+taken.
+
+On telling this original that the pencil drawing of Mr. Lewis (which by the
+bye was executed in about an hour and a half) should be
+_engraved_--inasmuch as he was the modern _Historian of Falaise_--he seemed
+absolutely astonished. He moved a few paces gently forwards, and turning
+round, with hands and eyes elevated, exclaimed, in a tremulous and
+heart-stricken tone of voice, "Ah, mon Dieu!" I will not dissemble that I
+took leave of him with tears, which were with difficulty concealed. "Adieu,
+pour toujours!"--were words which he uttered with all the sincerity, and
+with yet more pathos, than was even shewn by Pierre Aime Lair at Caen. The
+landlord and landlady of this hotel are warm in their commendations of him:
+assuring me that his name is hardly ever pronounced without the mention of
+his virtues. He has just entered his sixty-second year.[173]
+
+It remains only to give an account of the progress of Printing and of
+Literature in this place: although the latter ought to precede the former.
+As a literary man, our worthy acquaintance the Comte de la Fresnaye takes
+the lead: yet he is rather an amateur than a professed critic. He has
+written upon the antiquities of the town; but his work is justly considered
+inferior to that of Monsieur Langevin. He quotes _Wace_ frequently, and
+with apparent satisfaction; and he promises a French version of his beloved
+_Ingulph_. Falaise is a quiet, dull place of resort, for those who form
+their notions of retirement as connected with the occasional bustle and
+animation of Caen and Rouen. But the situation is pleasing. The skies are
+serene: the temperature is mild, and the fruits of the earth are abundant
+and nutritious. Many of the more respectable inhabitants expressed their
+surprise to me that there were so few English resident in its
+neighbourhood--so much preferable, on many accounts to that of Caen. But
+our countrymen, you know, are sometimes a little capricious in the objects
+of their choice. Just now, it is the _fashion_ for the English to reside at
+Caen; yet when you consider that the major part of our countrymen reside
+there for the purpose of educating their children--and that Caen, from its
+numerous seminaries of education, contains masters of every description,
+whose lessons are sometimes as low as a frank for each--it is not
+surprising that Falaise is deserted for the former place. For myself--and
+for all those who love a select society, a sweet country, and rather a
+plentiful sprinkle of antiquarian art,--for such, in short, who would read
+the fabliaux of the old Norman bards in peace, comfort, and silence--there
+can be no question about the preference to be given to the spot from which
+I send this my last Norman despatch.
+
+I have before made mention of the fountains in this place. They are equally
+numerous and clear. The inn in which we reside has not fewer than three
+fountains--or rather of _jets d'eau_--constantly playing. Those in the
+_Place St. Trinite Grand Rue_, and _Place St. Gervais_, are the largest;
+but every gutter trickles with water as if dissolved from the purest
+crystal. It has been hot weather during the greater part of our stay; and
+the very sight of these translucent streams seems to refresh one's languid
+frame. But I proceed chiefly to the productions of the PRESS. They do a
+good deal of business here in the way of ephemeral publications. Letellier,
+situated in the Grande Rue, is the chief printer of _chap books_: and if we
+judge from the general character of these, the _Falaisois_ seem to be
+marvellously addicted to the effusions of the muse. Indeed, their ballads,
+of all kinds, are innumerable. Read a few--which are to be found in the
+very commonest publications. There is something rather original, and of a
+very pleasingly tender cast, in the first two:
+
+  LE BAISER D'ADIEUX.
+
+  Pres de toi l'heure du mystere
+  Ne m'appellera plus demain,
+  Vers ta demeure solitaire
+  Mes pas me guideront en vain;
+  J'ai respire ta douce haleine,
+  Et des pleurs ont mouille mes yeux,
+  J'ai tout senti, plaisir et peine,  )
+  J'ai recu ton baiser d'adieux.      ) _bis._
+
+    Tu pars, et malgre ta promesse
+  Rien ne m'assure de ta foi,
+  Nul souvenir de ta tendresse
+  Ne vient me dire: Pense a moi.
+  Ton amour qu'envain je reclame
+  Ne me laisse, en quittant ces lieux,
+  Que Phumide et brulante flamme
+  De ton dernier baiser d'adieux.
+
+    Puisse au moins ton indifference
+  Te garder d'un nouvel amour.
+  Et le veuvage de l'absence
+  Hater ton fortune retour!
+  Puisse alors l'amant qui t'adore,
+  Te revoyant aux memes lieux,
+  Sur tes levres vierges encore
+  Retrouver son baiser d'adieux!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  L'IMAGE DE LA VIE.
+
+  Nous naissons et dans notre coeur,
+  A peine aux portes de la vie,
+  Tout au plaisir, tout au bonheur,
+  Et nous invite et nous convie;
+  D'abord, simples amusements
+  Savent contenter notre enfance;
+  Mais bientot aux jeux innocens,
+  L'amour nous prend ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Fillette a l'age de quinze ans,
+  Offre l'image de la rose,
+  Qui des l'approche du printemps,
+  Entr'ouvre sa feuille mi-close;
+  Bientot l'aiguillon du desir
+  Vient ouvrir fleur d'innocence,
+  Et sous la bouche du plaisir,
+  Elle s'eclot ... sans qu'elle y pense.
+
+  Vous, qui pendant vos jeunes ans,
+  Ne courtisez pas la folie,
+  Songez donc que cet heureux temps
+  Ne dure pas toute la vie,
+  Assez vite il nous faut quitter
+  Tendres ardeurs, vives jouissances;
+  Et dans uu coeur qui sait aimer,
+  La raison vient ... sans qu'on y pense.
+
+  Mais enfin, sur l'aile du temps,
+  On arrive au but du voyage,
+  Et l'on voit la glace des ans,
+  Couronner nos fronts a cet age;
+  S'il fut sensible a la pitie,
+  S'il cultiva la bienfaisance,
+  Entre les bras de l'amitie
+  L'homme finit ... sans qu'il y pense
+
+You must know that they are here great lovers of royalty, and of course
+great supporters of the Bourbon Family. The King's printer is a Mons. BREE
+l'Aine. He is a very pleasant, well-bred man, and lives in the _Place
+Trinite_. I have paid him more than one visit, and always felt additional
+pleasure at every repetition of it. My first visit was marked with a
+somewhat ludicrous circumstance. On entering the compositors' room, I
+observed, pasted upon the walls, in large capital letters, the following
+well known words:
+
+  GOD SAVE THE KING.
+
+Both Monsieur Bree l'Aine--and his workmen were equally gratified by my
+notice and commendation of this sentiment. "It is the favourite sentiment,
+Sir, of your country,"--remarked the master. To this I readily assented.
+"It is also, Sir, the favourite one of our own," replied M. Bree
+l'Aine--and his men readily attested their concurrence in the same reply.
+"Ah, Sir, if you would only favour us by _singing the air_, to which these
+words belong, you would infinitely oblige us all" ... said a shrewd and
+intelligent-looking compositor. "With all my heart"--rejoined I--"but I
+must frankly tell you, that I shall sing it rather with heart than with
+voice--being neither a vocal nor an instrumental performer." "No matter:
+give us only a notion of it." They all stood round in a circle, and I got
+through two stanzas as gravely and as efficiently as I was able. The usual
+"charmant!" followed my exertions. It was now my turn to ask a favour.
+"Sing to me your favourite national air of ROBERT and ARLETTE." "Most
+willingly, Sir," replied the forementioned "shrewd and intelligent-looking
+compositor." "Tenez: un petit moment: je vais chercher mon violon. Ca ira
+mieux."
+
+He left the house in search of his violin. The tune of the National air
+which he sung was both agreeable and lively: and upon the whole it was
+difficult to say which seemed to be the better pleased with the respective
+national airs. M. Bree shewed me his premises in detail. They had been
+formerly a portion of an old church; and are situated on the edge of the
+great fosse which encircles the town. A garden, full of sweet blooming
+flowers, is behind them; and the view backwards is cheerful and
+picturesque. There are generally five presses at work; which, for a
+provincial printing office, shews business to be far from slack. Mons. B.
+sells a great number of almanacks, and prints all the leading publications
+connected with the town. In fact, his title, as _Imprimeur du Roi_,
+supposes him to take the principal lead as a printer. This agreeable man
+has a brother who is professor of rhetoric in the College Royale at Paris.
+
+Of _Bouquinistes_, or dealers in old books, there are scarcely any. I spent
+three or four fruitless hours in a search after old chronicles and old
+poetry: and was compelled, almost from pure civility, to purchase of
+DUFOURS a _Petit's Virgil_ of 1529, folio--which will be hardly worth the
+carriage. I tried hard for a fine copy of _Fauchet's Origines de la Poesie
+Francoise_, 1581, 4to. with the head of the author, but in vain; yet
+endeavoured to console myself by an old blue morocco copy of _Les regrets
+et tristes lamentations du Comte de Montgomery_, by _Demorenne_, Rouen,
+1574, 8vo. as well as a clean, fresh, and almost crackling copy of
+_Amoureuses occupations de la Taysonniere_, Lyon, 1555, 8vo.--for two
+francs each--and both destined for the rich and choice library of our
+friend....
+
+Thus much for FALAISE: for a spot, which, from the uniform serenity of the
+weather since I have been here--from the comfort of the inn--from the
+extreme civility and attention of the townspeople--and from the yet more
+interesting society of the Comte de la Fresnaye, the _Cures_ Mouton and
+Langevin--together with the amenity of the surrounding country, and the
+interesting and in part magnificent remains of antiquity--can never be
+erased from my recollection. It is here that the tourist and antiquary may
+find objects for admiration and materials for recording. I have done both:
+admired and recorded--happy, if the result of such occupations shall have
+contributed to the substantial gratification of yourself and of our common
+friends. And now, farewell; not only to Falaise, but to NORMANDY. I shall
+leave it, from this delightful spot, in the most thorough good humour, and
+with more than ordinary regret that my stay has necessarily been short. I
+have taken my place in the Diligence, direct for PARIS. "Il n'y a qu'un
+Paris"--said the Comte de la Fresnaye to me the other day, when I told him
+I had never been there--to which I replied, "Are there then TWO Londons?"
+Thirty-six hours will settle all this. In the mean time, adieu.
+
+
+[169] On the return of Louis the XVIII. the town of Falaise manifested its
+    loyalty in the most unequivocal manner.
+
+      COUPLETS
+
+      _Chantes par les Eleves du College de Falaise, en arborant le
+      Drapeau Blanc_.
+
+      Air: _Un Soldat par un coup funeste_.
+
+        Loin de nous la sombre tristesse,
+        Mars a depose sa fureur;
+        Enfin la foudre vengeresse
+        Vient de terrasser _l'opresseur,_
+            L'aigle sanguinaire
+        Succombe a l'aspect de ces LYS.
+      Peuple francais, tu vas revoir ton Pere!
+        Vive le Roi! Vive LOUIS!
+
+        Drapeau, que d'horribles tempetes
+        Avoient eloigne de ces lieux,
+        Tu reviens embellir nos Fetes,
+        Plus brillant et plus radieux!
+            Ta douce presence
+        Ramene les jeux et les ris;
+      Sois a jamais l'Etendard de la France,
+        Vive le Roi! vive LOUIS!
+
+        O Dieu! vengeur de l'innocence,
+        Protege ces LYS glorieux!
+        Conserve long-temps a la France
+        LE ROI que tu rends a nos voeux!
+            Si la perfidie
+        De nouveau troubloit ton bonheur
+      Viens nous guider, o Banniere cherie!
+        Nous volerons au champ d'honneur.
+
+[170] The worthy historian of Falaise, quoted in a preceding page, is
+    exceedingly anxious to make us believe that there are portions of this
+    church--namely, four stones--in the eastern and western gable
+    ends--which were used in the consecration of it, by MATHILDA, the wife
+    of our first William. Also, that, at the gable end of the south
+    transept, outside, an ancient grotto,--in which the Gallic priests of
+    old purified themselves for the mysteries of their religion--is now
+    converted into the sacristy, or vestry, or robing room. But these are
+    surely mere antiquarian dreams. The same author more sagaciously
+    informs us that the exact period of the commencement of the building
+    of the nave, namely in 1438, is yet attested by an existing
+    inscription, in gothic letters, towards the chief door of entrance.
+    The inscription also testifies that in the same year, "there reigned
+    DEATH, WAR, and FAMINE." The _chancel of the choir_, with the
+    principal doors of entrance, &c. were constructed between the years
+    1520, and 1540. It may be worth remarking that the stalls of the choir
+    were brought from the Abbey of St. John--on the destruction of that
+    monastic establishment in 1729; and that, according to the _Gallia
+    Christiana_, vol. xi. p. 756, these stalls were carved at the desire
+    of Thomas II. de Mallebiche, abbot of that establishment in 1506-1516.
+    In a double niche of the south buttress are the statues of HERPIN and
+    his WIFE; rich citizens of Falaise, who, by their wealth, greatly
+    contributed to the building of the choir. (Their grandson, HERPIN
+    LACHENAYE, together with his mistress were killed, side by side, in
+    fighting at one of the gates of Falaise to repel the successful troops
+    of Henry IV.) The _Chapel of the Virgin_, behind the choir, was
+    completed about the year 1631. LANGEVIN, p. 81-128-131.
+
+[171] We have of course nothing to do with the first erection of a place of
+    worship at Guibray in the VIIIth century. The story connected with the
+    earliest erection is this. The faubourg of Guibray, distant about 900
+    paces from Falaise, was formerly covered with chestnut and oak trees.
+    A sheep, scratching the earth, as if by natural instinct (I quote the
+    words of M. Langevin the historian of Falaise) indicated, by its
+    bleatings, that something was beneath. The shepherd approached, and
+    hollowing out the earth with his crook, discovered a statue of the
+    Virgin, with a child in its arms. The first church, dedicated to the
+    Virgin, under the reign of Charles Martel, called the Victorious, was
+    in consequence erected--on this very spot--in the centre of this
+    widely spreading wood of chestnut and oak. I hasten to the
+    construction of a second church, on the same site, under the auspices
+    of Mathilda, the wife of the Conqueror: with the statue of a woman
+    with a diadem upon her head--near one of the pillars: upon which
+    statue Langevin discourses learnedly in a note. But neither this
+    church nor the statue in question are now in existence. On the
+    contrary, the oldest portions of the church of Guibray, now
+    existing--according to the authors of the _Gallia Christiana_, vol.
+    xi. p. 878, and an ancient MS. consulted by M. Langevin--are of about
+    the date of 1222; when the church was consecrated by the Bishop of
+    Coutances. The open space towards the south, now called _La Place aux
+    Chevaux_, was the old burying ground of the church. There was also a
+    chapel, dedicated to St. Gervais, which was pillaged and destroyed by
+    the Hugonots in 1562. I should add, that the South-East exterior
+    (behind the chancel) of this very curious old church at Guibray,
+    resembles, upon a small scale, what M. Cotman has published of the
+    same portion of St. Georges de Bocherville. _Recherches sur Falaise_,
+    p. 49-53. Monsieur le Comte de la Fresnaye, in his _Notice Historique
+    sur Falaise_, 1816, 8vo. will have it, that "the porch of this church,
+    the only unmutilated portion remaining of its ancient structure,
+    demonstrates the epoch of the origin of Christianity among the Gauls."
+    "At least, such is the decision of M. Deveze, draftsman for Laborde;
+    the latter of whom now Secretary to the Count d'Artois, instituted a
+    close examination of the whole fabric." p. 5-6. I hope there are not
+    many such conclusions to be found in the magnificent and meritorious
+    productions of LABORDE.
+
+[172] This fair lasts full fifteen days. The first eight days are devoted
+    to business of a more important nature--which they call the GREAT
+    WEEK: that is to say, the greatest number of merchants attend during
+    the earlier part of it; and contracts of greater extent necessarily
+    take place. The remaining seven days are called the LITTLE WEEK--in
+    which they make arrangements to carry their previous bargains into
+    effect, and to return home. Men and merchandise, from all quarters,
+    and of all descriptions, are to be seen at this fair. Even Holland and
+    Germany are not wanting in sending their commercial representatives.
+    Jewellery and grocery seem to be the chief articles of commerce; but
+    there is a prodigious display of silk, linen, and cotton, &c.: as well
+    as of hides, raw and tanned; porcelaine and earthen ware. The live
+    cattle market must not be forgotten. Langevin says that, of horses
+    alone, they sometimes sell full four thousand. Thus much for the buyer
+    and seller. But this fair is regularly enlivened by an immense
+    confluence of nobility and gentry from the adjacent country--to
+    partake of the amusements, which, (as with the English,) form the
+    invariable appendages of the scene. Langevin mentions the minor fairs
+    of _Ste. Croix, St. Michel_, and _St. Gervais_, which help to bring
+    wealth into the pockets of the inhabitants. _Recherches Historiques
+    sur Falaise_; p. 199, &c.
+
+[173] [Since the publication of this Tour, the amiable Mons. Langevin has
+    published "additions" to his historical account of Falaise; and in
+    those additions, he has been pleased to notice the account which is
+    HERE given of his labours and character. It would be bad--at least
+    hardly justifiable--taste, to quote that notice: yet I cannot
+    dissemble the satisfaction to find that there is _more_ than ONE
+    sympathising heart in Normandy, which appreciates this record of its
+    excellence. I subjoin, therefore, with the greatest satisfaction, a
+    fac-simile of the autograph of this amiable and learned man, as it
+    appears written (at my request) in the title-page of a copy of his
+    "Researches."
+
+    [Illustration: Langevin ptre.]
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO PARIS.
+
+_Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissoniere, May_ 30, 1819.
+
+"Time and the hour runs through the roughest day." They must be protacted
+miseries indeed which do not, at some period or other, have something like
+a termination. I am here, then my good friend--safe and sound at last;
+comfortably situated in a boarding house, of which the mistress is an
+agreeable Englishwoman and the master an intelligent Swiss. I have
+sauntered, gazed, and wondered--and exchanged a thousand gracious
+civilities! I have delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken hands
+with Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which the
+renowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the _Thuileries_
+and the _Louvre_; repeatedly reconnoitred the _Boulevards_; viewed the gilt
+dome of the _Hotel des Invalides_, and the white flag upon the
+bronze-pillar in the _Place Vendome_; seen crowds of our countrymen at
+_Meurice's_ and in the hotels about the _Rue de la Paix;_ partaken of the
+rival ices of _Tortoni_ and the _Caffe des Mille Colonnes_; bought old
+French poetry at a Bouquiniste's: and drank Chambertin and Champagne at the
+richly garnished table of our ----. These are what may be called good
+_foreground objects_ in the composition of a Parisian picture. Now for the
+filling up of the canvas with appropriate and harmonizing detail.
+
+A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a proposal;
+for it cannot be, in this my _first_ despatch, that you are to receive any
+thing like an adequate notion of the topics thus hastily thrown together on
+the first impulse of Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: and
+at least admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letter
+left me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely from that
+place that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to leave it, as I
+told you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the Sunday, immediately
+following the date of the despatch transmitted. I shall have reason to
+remember that journey for many a day to come; but, "post varios casus, &c."
+I am thankful to find myself safely settled in my present comfortable
+abode. The Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually starts
+for Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard incessant
+juvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the Grand Turc; What
+might this mean? Between three and four, as the day began to break, I rose,
+and approaching the window, saw, from thence, a number of little boys and
+girls busied in making artificial flower-beds and sand-borders, &c. Their
+tongues and their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It was
+impossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a proceeding;
+but, opening the window, I thought there could be no harm in asking a very
+simple question--which I will confess to you was put in rather an irritable
+manner on my part ... for I had been annoyed by their labours for more than
+the last hour. "What are you about, there?" I exclaimed--"Ha, is it you
+Sir?" replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one else. "Yes,
+(resumed I) tell me what you are about there?" "in truth, we are making
+_Reposoirs_ for the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Is
+it not a pretty thing, Sir?" exclaimed a sweetly modulated female voice.
+All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was instantly convinced
+that Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment than when he said--"A soft
+answer turneth away wrath!" I admitted the prettiness of the thing without
+comprehending a particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key,
+shut the window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: and
+the little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break forth
+in a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence, I was almost
+feverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre announced that "it
+was eight o'clock, and the morning most beautiful."
+
+These _reposoirs_ are of more importance than you are aware of. They
+consist of little spots, or spaces in the streets, garnished with flowers,
+and intersected by walks, marked with fine gravel, in the centre of which
+the Host rests, on its passing to and fro from the several parishes. When I
+rose to dress, I observed the work of art--which had been in progress
+during the night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespass
+by pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or,
+whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to deposit a sous
+as the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon the whole, this
+reposoir might be about sixteen feet square. Towards eleven o'clock the
+different religious ceremonies began. On one side the noise of the drum,
+and the march of the national guard, indicated that military mass was about
+to be performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed and
+officiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses of both
+laity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and made every inmate
+of every mansion thrust his head out of window, to gaze at the passing
+spectacle. We were among the latter denomination of lookers on, and
+recognised, with no small gratification, our clerical friends Messieurs
+Mouton, Langevin, and the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by a
+great number of respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnaye
+and his amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made most
+respectable figures; They approached the reposoir in question. The priests,
+with the Host, took their station within it; silence followed; one
+officiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what seemed to be, the wooden
+covers of a book,--with, considerable violence--rose--turned round, and the
+procession being again put in motion--the whole marched away to the church
+of the Holy Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what I
+was unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed to
+imitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect its own
+particular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we cannot commend ...
+and insult and disrespect are among the last actions which a well regulated
+mind will shew in its treatment of such matters. I should add, that these
+reposoirs, a few hours after the performance of the ceremony just
+described, are indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sand
+banks falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the passenger.
+
+Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had been
+formerly an establishment of very considerable extent and celebrity; but
+whether it was originally connected with the hospital of the _Leproserie de
+Saint Lasare_, (about which the Abbe Langevin's History of Falaise is
+rather curious) the _Hotel-Dieu_, or the _Hopital General_, I cannot take
+upon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this establishment does
+great credit to those who have the conduct of it. As foreigners, and
+particularly as Englishmen, we were permitted to see the whole, without
+reserve. On my return from witnessing the ceremony at the church of the
+Trinity, I visited this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphic
+operations before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figure
+of the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculine
+complexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven tint--she
+added a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put into action, moved
+in a most decided manner. A large bunch of massive keys was suspended from
+a girdle at her side; and her dress, which was black, was rendered more
+characteristic and striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called,
+_bustles_ above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the floor seemed
+equally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke would have painted
+this severe Duenna-like looking matron with inimitable force and truth.
+But ... she no sooner opened her mouth, than all traits of severity
+vanished. Her voice was even musical, and her "facon de parler" most
+gracious. She shewed me the whole establishment with equal good humour
+and alertness; and I don't know when I ever made such a number of bows
+(to the several female patients in the wards) within such limited time
+and space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there were
+several architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenth
+century, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions; as,
+upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to the
+gratuitous disposal of them.
+
+The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were summoned to
+the Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy host and hostess of
+the _Grand Turc_, (whom I strongly recommend all Englishmen to visit) I
+made up my mind for a thirty-six hour's journey--as I was to reach Paris on
+Tuesday morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of the
+year; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches of
+sleep--greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay and
+downfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took our
+departure. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we approached
+_L'Aigle_, the left braces (which proved to be thoroughly rotted leather)
+broke in two: and down slid, rather than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence!
+There were two French gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves in
+the coach. While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmen
+found consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffe, (it was
+between four and five in the morning), rousing the master and mistress, and
+as I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking for coffee: while they
+amused themselves with billiards during its preparation. I was in no humour
+for eating, drinking, or playing: for here was a second sleepless night!
+Having repaired this crazy vehicle, we rumbled on for _Verneuil_; where it
+was exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, about
+eleven o'clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it not be said
+that the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively to our
+country:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack upon
+substantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before witnessed. I was
+well contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and bread--as who might not well
+be?... but my companions, after taking these in flank, cut through the
+centre of a roast fowl and a dish of stewed veal: making diversions, in the
+mean while, upon sundry bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, during
+the meal, being as instrumental as the white metal forks.
+
+We set off at a good round trot for _Dreux_: and, in the route thither, we
+ascended a long and steep hill, having _Nonancourt_ to the left. Here we
+saw some very pretty country houses, and the whole landscape had an air of
+English comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the first
+time, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a most
+stiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any thing but the
+brown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against which the vine is
+trained. But the sloping banks, on each side of the ascending road, were
+covered with plantations of this precious tree; and I was told that, if the
+_autumn_ should prove as auspicious as appeared the _spring_, there would
+be a season of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart.
+Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the country
+about _Nonancourt_. The sun was fast descending as we entered the town of
+_Dreux_--where I had resolved upon taking leave both of the diligence and
+of my companions; and of reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, or
+rather perhaps made an early supper; when my fellow travellers _sustained_
+their reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl.
+Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the charge
+moderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the score of
+provision of reasonableness of cost, like the _table d'hote_ throughout
+France; and he who cannot accommodate himself to the hour of dining
+(usually about one) must make up his mind to worse fare and treble charges.
+
+After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near the castle.
+We visited the principal church, _St. Jean_, which is very spacious, and
+upon the whole is a fine piece of architecture. I speak more particularly
+of the interior--where I witnessed, however, some of the most horrible
+devastations, arising from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one of
+the side chapels, there _had been_ a magnificent monument; perhaps from
+sixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as large as life,
+from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some trenchant instrument of
+an irresistible force, had shaved away many of the figures; but more
+especially the heads and the arms. This was only one, but the most
+striking, specimen of revolutionary Vandalism. There were plenty of similar
+proofs, on a reduced scale. In the midst of these traces of recent havoc,
+there was a pleasure mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewing
+some exceedingly pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escaped
+the destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all their
+original freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the priests were
+robing themselves to attend confession; while the suppliants, in kneeling
+attitudes, were expecting them by the side of the confessionals. From the
+church I bent my steps to the principal bookseller of the place, whom I
+found to be an intelligent, civil, and extremely good-natured tradesman.
+But his stock was too modern. "Donnez vous la peine de monter"--exclaimed
+he precipitately; begging me to follow him. His up-stairs collection was
+scarcely of a more ancient character than that below. There were more
+copies of _Voltaire_ and _Rousseau_ than I should have supposed he could
+sell in six years--but "on the contrary" (said he) "in six months' time,
+not a single copy will remain unsold!" I marvelled and grieved at such
+intelligence; because the poison was not extracted from the nourishment
+contained in these works. To an enquiry about my old typographical friends,
+_Verard, Pigouchet_, and _Eustace_, the worthy bibliopole replied "qu'il
+n'avoit jamais entendu parler de ces gens-la!" Again I marvelled; and
+having no temptation to purchase, civilly wished him good evening.
+
+Meanwhile Mr. L. had attained the castle heights, and was lost in a sort of
+extacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer walls, and directing
+your steps towards the summit, you are enchanted with a beautiful
+architectural specimen--in the character of a zigzag early Norman
+arch--which had originally belonged to a small church, recently taken down:
+The arch alone stands insulated ... beyond which, a new, and apparently a
+very handsome, church is erecting, chiefly under the care and at the
+expence of the present Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--and
+in which, not many days before our arrival, the remains of one of his
+children had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of this
+arch ... but there was no time ... and my companion was exercising his
+pencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird's eye of the sweep of country to
+be seen from this elevated situation--through the greater part of which,
+indeed, the diligence from _Verneuil_ had recently conducted us. I should
+add, that not a relic of that CASTLE, which had once kept the town and the
+adjacent country in awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose a
+space hardly less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which I
+had yet witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, the
+sun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk behind the
+edge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned throughout the
+landscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I cannot now say) as I
+sunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue and the lassitude of two
+sleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I could have seen the effect of that
+glorious sun-set from, the heights of Dover. Now and then, as when at
+school, one feels a little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which then
+possessed me was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. The
+shadows of evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, starting
+from my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to surprise me) I
+hastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction sought the town and
+our hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not until, from an opposite
+coach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like carriage to convey us with post
+horses, the next day, to Paris.
+
+Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the grand
+entree into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little after
+nine--before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of which was
+surmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the phaeton in the
+rear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our baggage properly
+secured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted forward at a smart
+gallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly away with us--and the whip
+of the postilion made innumerable circular flourishes above their heads.
+The sky was beautifully clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantly
+penetrating, south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely to
+be sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and general
+uncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey! We felt it
+sensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place of halting, to
+change horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about four leagues from Dreux;
+and I verily believe we reached it in an hour. The route thither is through
+a flat and uninteresting country; except that every feature of landscape
+(and more especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to be
+thrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for the
+flatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is a
+village-like town, containing a population of about 2000 inhabitants; but
+much business is done on market days; and of _corn_, in particular, I was
+told that they often sold several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguity
+to Paris may account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts of
+the town,--and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows of
+trees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the "stiff and stower"
+remains of the _Castle of Houdan_. It is a very interesting relic, and to
+our eyes appeared of an unusual construction. The corner towers are small
+and circular; and the intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructed
+with a swell, or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but have
+forgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty feet
+square. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but without success,
+as the person possessing the key was not to be found. I saw enough,
+however, to convince me that the walls could not be less than twelve feet
+in thickness.
+
+The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh postilion seemed
+to be lost in amazement at the cause of our loitering so long at so
+insignificant a place. The day warmed as we pushed on for the far-famed
+"proud Versailles." The approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the most
+favourable; although we got peeps of the palace, which gave us rather
+elevated notions of its enormous extent. We drove to the _Hotel de
+Bourbon_, an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very facade of the
+palace, after passing the Hotel de Ville; and from whence you have an
+undisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I bespoke
+dinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I purposely declined
+visiting the interior--reserving Versailles for a future and entire day's
+gratification--is doubtless an immense fabric--of which the facade just
+mentioned is composed of brick, and assumes any thing but a grand and
+imposing air: merely because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design.
+I observed some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of this
+widely extended chaussee--or route royale--and, upon the whole, Versailles
+appeared to us to be a magnificent and rather interesting spot. Two or
+three rows of trees, some forty or fifty generations more ancient than
+those constituting the boulevards at Houdan, formed avenues on each side of
+this noble road; and all appeared life and animation--savouring of the
+proximity of the metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire,
+were going and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were of
+a more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a little
+impatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We hired one
+of these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey us to the place of
+our destination. This appeared to me very reasonable; and after being
+extravagant enough to drink Champagne at dinner, to commemorate our near
+approach to the metropolis, we set forward between five and six o'clock,
+resolving to strain our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at every
+thing we saw!--especially as _this_ is considered the most favourable
+approach to the capital.
+
+The _Ecole Militaire_, to the left, of which Marshal Ney had once the chief
+command, struck me as a noble establishment. But it was on approaching
+_Sevre_ that all the bustle and population, attendant upon the immediate
+vicinity of a great metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--in
+many of which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--three
+upon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches, and
+carriages of every description, among which we discovered a great number
+from our own country--did not fail to occupy our unremitting attention.
+_Sevre_ is a long, rambling, and chiefly single-street town; but
+picturesquely situated, on a slope, and ornamented to the left by the
+windings of the Seine. We were downright glad to renew our acquaintance
+with our old, and long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appeared
+to be sadly shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with it
+before the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The new
+nine-arch bridge at Sevre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in miniature. Upon
+the heights, above it, I learnt that there was a beautiful view of the
+river in the foreground with Paris in the distance. We passed over the old
+bridge, and saw _St. Cloud_ to the left: which of course interested us as
+the late residence of Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyond
+the air of a large respectable country-gentleman's mansion in England. We
+pushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great city. Of all
+the desirable places of retreat, whether for its elevated situation, or
+respectable appearance, or commodious neighbourhood, nothing struck me more
+forcibly than the village of PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left;
+some three or four English miles from Paris--and having a noble view both
+of the river and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkably
+healthy; and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thither
+to and from Paris.
+
+The dome of the _Pantheon_, and the gilded one of the _Hotel des
+Invalides_, together with the stunted towers of _Notre Dame_, were among
+the chief objects to the right: while the accompaniment of the Seine,
+afforded a pleasing foreground to this architectural picture in the
+distance. But, my friend, I will frankly own to you, that I was
+disappointed ... upon this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the first
+place, the surrounding country is flat; with the exception of _Mount
+Calvary,_ to the left, which has nothing to do with the metropolitan view
+from this situation. In the second place, what are the _Pantheon_ and
+_Notre Dame_ compared with _St. Paul's_ and _Westminster Abbey_?--to say
+nothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the beautifully
+undulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood, and. Shooter's
+Hill--and, on the other side of the water, Hampstead, Highgate and
+Harrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!... What lovely vicinities are
+these compared with that of _Mont Martre_? And if you take river scenery
+into the account, what is the _Seine_, in the neighbourhood of Paris,
+compared with the _Thames_ in that of London? If the almost impenetrable
+smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I beseech
+you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, which
+shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London,
+from the descent from _Shooter's Hill_! The most bewitched
+Frenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, will
+not have the temerity to institute such a comparison. But as you near
+the barriers, your admiration increases. Having got rid of all
+background of country--as you approach the capital--the foregoing
+objections vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search our
+luggage. They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmed
+all suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and
+one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the _Champs Elysees_. As
+we gained the _Place Louis Quinze_, with the _Thuileries_ in front, with
+the _Hotel des Invalides_ (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the
+strong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck with
+this combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much superior
+to any similar display on the entrance into our own capital.[174]
+Turning to the left, the _Place Vendome_ and the _Rue de la Paix_, with
+the extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of their
+construction, completed our admiration. But the _Boulevards
+Italiens_--after passing the pillars of the proposed church of _Ste.
+Madelaine_, and turning to the right--helped to prolong our extreme
+gratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you.
+Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city.
+A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch.
+I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with the
+treasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books.
+THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it have
+charmed me by their extreme kindness and civility.[175]
+
+
+[174] [The above was written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a
+    foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent
+    Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland
+    Place?]
+
+[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease;
+    and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own
+    words. "Ici se termine la tache qui m'a ete confiee. Apres avoir
+    refute franchement tout ce qui m'a semble digne de letre, je crois
+    devoir declarer, en finissant, que mes observations n'ont jamais eu
+    _la personne_ pour objet. Je reste persuade, d'ailleurs, que le coeur
+    de M.D. est tout-a-fait innocent des ecarts de son esprit. Si l'on
+    peut le condamner pour le fait, il faudra toujours l'absoudre pour
+    l'intention...." The _concluding_-sentence need not be copied: it is
+    bad taste to re-echo the notices of one's own good qualities.
+
+    My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace of a
+    gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct and
+    severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always had the
+    button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how these
+    thrusts have been parried; and if the "hits" on the part of my
+    adversary, have been sometimes "palpable," those of the original
+    author will not (it is presumed) be deemed feeble or unimpressive.
+    After all, the sum total of "Errata" scarcely includes THREE of
+    _substantial moment_: and wishing Mons Licquet "a very good day," I
+    desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the
+    floor of that Library of which he is the "Bibliothecaire en Chef."
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+London: Printed by W. Nicol,
+Cleveland-row, St. James's.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I.
+
+OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN.
+
+
+The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the foregoing pages,
+and its history, as connected with our own country in the earlier part of
+the fifteenth century, is too interesting, to require any thing in the
+shape of apology for the matter which the Reader is about to peruse. This
+"matter" is necessarily incidental to the _present_ edition of the "Tour;"
+as it is only recently made public. An "_Old English Poem_" on our Henry
+the Fifth's "_Siege of Rouen_" is a theme likely to excite the attention of
+the literary Antiquary on _either_ side of the Channel.
+
+The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J.J. Conybeare, successively
+Professor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry in the University of
+Oxford, discovered, in the exhaustless treasures of the Bodleian Library, a
+portion of the Old English Poem in question: but it was a portion only. In
+the 21st. vol. of the Archaeologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of this
+fortunate discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. Frederick
+Madden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. department in the British
+Museum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of the portion
+which was lost: and in the 22d. vol. of the _Archaeologia_, just published,
+(pp. 350-398), he has annexed an abstract of the remaining fragment, with
+copious and learned notes. This fragment had found its way, in a prose
+attire, into the well-known English MS. Chronicle, called the
+BRUTE:--usually (but most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not however
+to be found in _all_ the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr.
+Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. has found the
+poem only in four of them: namely, in two among the Harleian MSS. (Nos.
+753; 2256--from which _his_ transcript and collation have been made) in one
+belonging to Mr. Coke of Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the _Cotton_
+Collection:--Galba E. viii. This latter MS. has a very close correspondence
+with the _second_ Harl. MS. but is often faulty from errors of the Scribe,
+See _Gentleman's Magazine, May_, 1829.
+
+So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old English
+Poem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production of the time of
+the Siege--namely, A.D. 1418. A word as to its intrinsic worth--from the
+testimony of the Critic most competent to appreciate it. "It will be
+admitted, I believe, (says Mr. Madden) by all who will take the trouble
+to compare the various contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen,
+that in point of simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, there
+is NO existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Its
+authenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the Author's
+having been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review the names of those
+Historians who lived at the same period, we shall have abundant reason
+to rejoice at so valuable an accession to our present stock of
+information on the subject." _Archaeologia_, vol. xxii. p. 353. The
+reader shall be no longer detained from a specimen or two of the poem
+itself, which should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic.
+
+"On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent by the City of
+Rouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to inform us, that the King
+caused two tents to be pitched, one for the English Commissioners, and the
+other for the French. On the English side were appointed the Earl of
+Warwick, the Earl of Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir Walter
+Hungerford, and on the French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen to
+meet them. Then says the writer,
+
+  'It was a sight of solempnity,
+  For to behold both party;
+  To see the rich in their array,
+  And on the walls the people that lay,
+  And on our people that were without,
+  How thick that they walked about;
+  And the heraudis seemly to seene,
+  How that they went ay between;
+  The king's heraudis and pursuivants,
+  In coats of arms _amyantis_.
+  The English a beast, the French a flower,
+  Of Portyngale both castle and tower,
+  And other coats of diversity,
+  As lords bearen in their degree.'
+
+"As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and splendour is described
+the deplorable condition of those unfortunate inhabitants who lay starving
+in the ditches without the walls of the City, deprived both of food and
+clothing. The affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was an
+eye-witness, is written with that display of feeling such a scene must
+naturally have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourable
+passages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of Elmham or
+Livius. In the first instance we behold misery literally in rags, and
+hiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the other she is
+ostentatiously paraded before our eyes:
+
+  'There men might see a great pity,
+  A child of two year or three
+  Go about, and bid his bread,
+  For Father and mother both lay dead,
+  And under them the water stood,
+  And yet they lay crying after food.
+  Some _storven_ to the death,
+  And some stopped both eyen and breath,
+  And some crooked in the knees,
+  And as lean as any trees,
+  And women holding in their arm
+  A dead child, and nothing warm,
+  And children sucking on the pap
+  Within a dead woman's lap.'
+
+On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. made his public entry into
+Rouen. His personal appearance is thus described:
+
+  'He rode upon a brown steed,
+  Of black damask was his weed,
+  A _Peytrelle_ of gold full bright
+  About his neck hung down right,
+  And a pendant behind him did honge
+  Unto the earth, it was so long.
+  And they that never before him did see,
+  They knew by the cheer which was he.'
+
+"With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry was ever
+distinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where he alighted from
+his charger, and was met by the chaplains of his household, who walked
+before him, chanting _Quis est magnus Dominus?_ After the celebration of
+mass, the king repaired to the Castle, where he took up his abode. By this
+termination of a siege, which, for its duration and the horrors it
+produced, is perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, the
+city was again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered the
+shock so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:
+
+  'And thus our gracious liege
+  Made an end of his siege;
+  And all that have heard this reading,
+  To his bliss Christ you bring,
+  That for us died upon a tree,
+  Amen say we all, _pur charite!_'
+
+The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and ordered by Henry
+to take possession of it the same night. The Duke mounts his horse, and
+rides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or Beauvais, attended by a retinue, to
+carry the commands of his sovereign into execution. His Entre, and the
+truly miserable condition of the besieged, together with the imposing
+appearance of Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet.
+
+  Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode
+  Toke his hors and forth he rode,
+  To bevesyne[E] that porte so stronge,
+  That he hadde ley bifore so longe,
+  To that gate sone he kam,[F]
+  And with hym many a worthy[G] manne.
+  There was neying of many a stede,
+  And schynyng of many a gay wede,
+  There was many a getoun[H] gay,
+  With mychille[I] and grete aray.
+  And whanne the gate was openyd there,
+  And thay weren[J] redy into fare,
+  Trumpis[K] blewgh her bemys[L] of bras,
+  Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was,
+  And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte
+  With her[M] voyce that was fulle stowte,
+  'Seint George! seint George!' thay criden[N] on height,
+  And seide, 'welcome oure kynges righte.'
+  The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite
+  Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see.
+  Thay criden[N] alle welcome in fere,
+  'In siche tyme mote ye entre here,
+  Plesyng to God that it may be,
+  And to vs pees and vnyte.'
+  And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe,
+  It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe.
+  Mykelle of that folke therynne
+  Thay weren[O] but verrey bonys and skynne.
+  With eyen holowgh and[P] nose scharpe,
+  Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe,
+  For her colowris was[Q] wan as lede,
+  Not like to lyue but sone ben dede.
+  Disfigurid pateronys[R] and quaynte,
+  And as[S] a dede kyng thay weren paynte.
+  There men myght see an[T] exampleyre,
+  How fode makith the pepulle faire.[U]
+  In euery strete summe lay dede,
+  And hundriddis krying aftir brede.
+  And aftir long many a day,
+  Thay deyde as[V] faste as[W] they myght be lad away.
+  Into[X] that way God hem wisse,
+  That thay may come to his blisse! amen.
+  Now[Y] wille y more spelle,
+  And of the duke of exestre to[Z] telle.
+  To that Castelle firste he rode,
+  And sythen[AA] the Cite alle abrode;
+  Lengthe and brede he it mette,
+  And rich baneris he[AB] vp sette.
+  Vpon the porte seint Hillare
+  A Baner of the Trynyte.
+  And at[AC] the port Kaux he sette evene
+  A baner of the quene of heven.
+  And at[AD] port martvile he vppyght   Of seint George a baner bryght.
+  He sette vpon the Castelle to[AE] stonde
+  The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond.
+  And on the Friday in the mornynge
+  Into that Cite come oure kynge.
+  And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray,
+  And vij. abbottis with Crucchis[AF] gay;
+  xlij.[AG] crossis ther were of Religioune[AH],
+  And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun,
+  Agens that prince withoute the toune,
+  And euery Cros as thay stode
+  He blessid hem with milde mode,
+  And holy water with her hande
+  Thay gaf the prince of oure lande.
+  And at[AI] the porte Kaux so wide
+  He in passid withoute[AJ] pride;
+  Withoute pipe or bemys blaste,
+  Our kyng worthyly he in paste.
+  And as a conquerour in his righte
+  Thankyng[AK] euer god almyghte;
+  And alle the pepulle in that Citie
+  'Wilcome our[AL] lorde,' thay seide, 'so fre!
+  Wilcome into[AM] thyne owne righte,
+  As it is the[AN] wille of[AO] god almyght.'
+  With that thay kryde alle _'nowelle!_'
+  Os[AP] heighe as thay myght yelle.
+  He rode vpon a browne stede,
+  Of blak damaske was his wede.
+  A peytrelle[AQ] of golde fulle bryght
+  Aboute his necke hynge[AR] doun right,
+  And a pendaunte behynd him dide[AS] honge
+  Vnto the erthe, it was so longe,
+  And thay that neuer before hym dide[AT] see,
+  Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he.
+  To the mynster dide he fare,
+  And of his horse he lighte there.
+  His chapelle[AU] mette hym at[AV] the dore there,
+  And wente bifore[AW] hym alle in fere,
+  And songe a response[AX] fulle glorivs,
+  _Quis est magnus dominus_.
+  Messe he hirde and offrid thoo,
+  And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo.
+  That is a place of rialte,
+  And a paleis of grete beaute.
+  There he hym[AY] loggid in the Toune,
+  With rialle and grete renoune.
+  And the[AZ] cite dide faste encrece
+  Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe.[BA]
+  And thus oure gracious liege
+  Made an ende of his seege.
+  And alle that[BB] haue hirde this redynge[BC]
+  To his[BD] blisse criste you brynge,
+  That for vs deide vpon[BE] a tre,
+  Amen sey[BF] we alle, pur cherite!
+
+_There was many a getoun gay_.] The following particulars relative to the
+_getoun_ appear in MS. Harl. 838. "Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shal
+have hys baner displeyd in y'e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyght
+his penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys _getoun_ or standard." "Item, y'e
+meyst lawfully fle fro y'e standard and _getoun_, but not fro y'e baner ne
+penon.". "Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp or in y'e
+fore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a standard as welle as a
+_getoun_: a _getoun_ shal berr y'e length of ij yardes, a standard of iii
+or 4 yardes, and a stremer of xii. xx. xl. or lx. yardes longe."
+
+This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. f. 431. as
+quoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. vol. i. N.S. The former of
+these MSS. states: Euery standard and _Guydhome_ [whence the etymology of
+the word is obvious] to have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to be
+slitte at the ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with the
+posey, worde, and devise of the owner." It adds, that "a guydhome must be
+two yardes and a halfe, or three yardes longe." This rule may sometimes
+have been neglected, at least by artists, for in a bill of expences for the
+Earl of Warwick, dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. p. 327.)
+we find the following entry; "Item, a _gyton_ for the shippe of viij.
+yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng and
+workmanship, ijs." The Grant of a _guydon_ made in 1491 to Hugh Vaughan, is
+preserved in the College of Arms. It contains his crest placed
+longitudinally. _Retrospective Review, New Series_, vol. i. p. 511.
+
+
+[E] _bewesyns_.
+
+[F] _came_.
+
+[G] _worthy_ deest.
+
+[H] A species of banner or streamer. See Note.
+
+[I] _noble_.
+
+[J] _were_.
+
+[K] Trumpeters.
+
+[L] Trumpets.
+
+[M] _that_.
+
+[N] cryed.
+
+[O] _were_.
+
+[P] _with nose_.
+
+[Q] _were_.
+
+[R] _patrons_.--Workmens' models or figures. _Patrone_, forme to
+    werke by. _Prompt. Parvul_. MS. Harl. 221. There is probably here
+    an allusion to the waxen or wooden effigies placed on the hearse of
+    distinguished personages.
+
+[S] _as dede thyng they were peynte_.
+
+[T] _in_.
+
+[U] _to fare_.
+
+[V] as _deest_.
+
+[W] _as cartes led awey_.
+
+[X] _Vnto_.
+
+[Y] In MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter
+    introduced.
+
+[Z] _to_ deest.
+
+[AA] _sithe_.
+
+[AB] _vp he_.
+
+[AC] _atte porte kauxoz_.
+
+[AD] _atte_ porte.
+
+[AE] _that stounde_.
+
+[AF] Crosses.
+
+[AG] xliiij.
+
+[AH] _religiouns_.
+
+[AI] _atte porte hauxoz_.
+
+[AJ] The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are omitted.
+
+[AK] _Thanked_.
+
+[AL] _they seyde our lord so free_.
+
+[AM] _vnto_.
+
+[AN] _the_ deest.
+
+[AO] _to_.
+
+[AP] _As_.
+
+[AQ] Poitrell, breast plate.
+
+[AR] _hangyng_.
+
+[AS] _dide_ deest.
+
+[AT] _the_ chere.
+
+[AU] The chaplains of his household. Lat. _capella_.
+
+[AV] _atte_ dore, _there_ deest.
+
+[AW] _afore_.
+
+[AX] _respon._
+
+[AY] _logged hym._
+
+[AZ] _his cite fast encrest_.
+
+[BA] _beste_.
+
+[BB] _that_ deest.
+
+[BC] _tydyng_.
+
+[BD] _his_ deest.
+
+[BE] on.
+
+[BF] _seyde all for charitee_.
+
+
+
+
+BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p. 127-8.
+
+
+This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the possession
+of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin's Lane. When the note relating to it
+was written, I could, not place my hand upon a Brochure (in my possession)
+published at Rouen in 1823,[176] containing an archaeological description
+of this Statue by M. Revet, and a scientific account of its component
+parts, by M. Houton La Billardiere, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. The
+former embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of the
+Lower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated state,
+is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great drawback to the
+publication--which, in its details, appears to be ingenious, learned, and
+satisfactory. The highest praise is given to the Statue, as a work of art
+of the second century.[177] Its _identity_ seems to be yet a subject of
+disputation:--but M. Revet considers it as "the representation of some
+idolatrous divinity." The opinion of its being a representation of Bacchus,
+or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be regulated by a
+discovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the vicinity of the
+Statue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating to explanations of the
+pieces of the Statue, close this interesting performance.
+
+
+[176] "_Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Dore, trouvee a
+    Lillebonne &c. Suivie de l'Analyse du Metal, avec le dessein de la
+    Statue, et les Traces de quelques particularites relatives a la
+    Confection de cette Antique." Rouen,_ 1823. pp. 56.
+
+[177] Other details induce me to fix the period of its completion towards
+    the end of the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties
+    which the artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if
+    one said that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection."
+    p. 34.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.
+
+INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,
+DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO.
+
+                                                                  Vol Page
+_AEneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus_, no date, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  315
+
+_AEsopus, Gr_. 4to. Edit. prin.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  308
+
+---- _Lat_. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  141
+
+---- _Ital_. 1485, _Tuppi_, in the same library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  142
+
+---- _Ital_. 1491 and 1492, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  308
+
+---- _Hispan_. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  142
+
+---- _Germ. Without Date, &c_., in the same library                ii  142
+
+---- ---- in the same library,                                     ii  142
+
+_Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard_, 1492,
+folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  134
+
+_Albert Durer_; original drawings of, in a Book of
+Prayers, in the Public Library at Munich,                         iii  132
+
+_Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha_, 1500,
+folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                        iii  101
+
+_Aldine Classics_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  145
+
+---- ----, in the Library of St. Genevieve,                        ii  177
+
+---- ----, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,            iii   41
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  146
+
+_Alexandrus Gallus_, vulgo _de Villa Dei Doctrinale V
+de Spira_, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,              iii  315
+
+_Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux_--a chap book,
+extracts from,                                                    iii   73
+
+_Anti-Christ--block book_--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+_Ambrosii Hexameron_, 1472, folio--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   99
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  430
+
+_Amours, chasse et depart, Verard_, 1509, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  132
+
+_Anthologia Graeca_, 1498, 4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  145
+
+_Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica_, 1477, _Koberger_,
+folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                        ii  407
+
+_Apocalypse, block book_, in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Apostles Creed_, in German, _block book_, with
+fac simile--in the Public Library at Munich,                      iii  137
+
+_Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt_, 1478, folio--in the library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  236
+
+_Apuleius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg,     iii  397
+
+---- ----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich,            iii  142
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  308
+
+---- ----, 1472, _Jenson_, folio--in the last mentioned
+library,                                                          iii  308
+
+_Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundae, Schoeffher_, 1467,
+folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  316
+
+----, _Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher_. 1469, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the same Library,                                      iii  316
+
+----, _In Evang. Matt, et Marc_. 1470, _S. and
+Pannartz_, folio--in the same library,                            iii  316
+
+---- _de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin_--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  141
+
+_Arbre des Batailles, Verard_, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  132
+
+_Aretinus de Bella Gothico_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  208
+
+_Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus_, 1495, 6 vols. Two copies
+UPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  136
+
+---- _Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--_ remarkably
+splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  138
+
+_Ars Memorandi_, &c.--_block book_: five copies of,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  135
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+---- -----in the Library of Goettwic Monastery,                    iii  428
+
+_Ars Moriendi, Germanice--4to_.-- in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   26
+
+---- _Lat. block book_--two editions, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  136
+
+_Art de bien Mourir, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+_Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton_, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  124
+
+ARTUS LE ROY; MS. xiith century,--in the Royal Library at Paris,   ii   94
+
+Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library,              ii   94
+
+_Artaxani Summa_, (1469) folio--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  232
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  113
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,               ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  301
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- ---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, 1470, folio, in the
+Public Library at Vire,                                             i  297
+
+_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery,      iii  221
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  181
+
+---- ---- _Schoeffher_, 1473; folio--in the Library of the
+Monastery of Chremsminster,                                       iii  221
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- _Confessionum Libri XIII_. 1475. 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  301
+
+---- ---- _de singularitate Clericorum_, 1467, 4to. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   40
+
+AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. xvth century--formerly in the
+library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   36
+
+---- ---- _Yppon. de Cons. Evang_. 1473, folio--in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  101
+
+_Aulus Gellius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  308
+
+Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468,
+Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _Pub. Lib. Augsbourg_,                 iii  100
+
+_Ausonius_, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  128
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  309
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Aymon, les quatre filz_, 1583, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                          ii  163
+
+
+B.
+
+BALLADS;
+  _Bon Jour, Bon Soir_:                                             i  132
+  --_Toujours_,                                                        389
+  various, from the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_,                  292
+                                                                      -293
+                                                                      -294
+  _Vive Le Roi, Vive L'Amour_,                                      i  310
+  _en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise_,                       i  324
+  _le Baiser d'Adieu_,                                              i  343
+  _L'Image de la Vie_,                                              i  344
+
+_Bartholi Lectura de Spira_, 1471. Folio.
+In the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  316
+
+_Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par, &c_.
+1818. 8vo.                                                        iii  393
+
+_Bella (La) Mano_, 1474, 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  321
+
+_Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist_. 1473, folio--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  317
+
+_Berlinghieri, Geografia_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                         iii  321
+
+_Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons_, no date,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  165
+
+_Bessarionis Epistolae_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Stuttgart,                                       iii   24
+
+BIBLIA LATINA, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald--in
+the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate
+engraving of that Monarch's portrait,                              ii   65
+
+------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library,                  ii   67
+
+------ ------ XVth century, of the _Emperor Wenceslaus_--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  290
+
+BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century,                      ii   69
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta Complut_. 1516, &c. in the
+Public Library at Coutances,                                        i  270
+
+------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  149
+
+------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut,            iii  181
+
+------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards
+that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut,                iii  181
+
+------ ------ _Walton_; royal copy, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  211
+
+------ ------ with the original
+dedication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                   iii   22
+
+------ ------ in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria,                      iii  237
+
+_Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay_: in the Library of the Lycee
+at Bayeux                                                           i  245
+
+------ _Hebraica, edit. Soncini_, 1488, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  303
+
+_Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant_, 1753, in a
+Private Collection near Bayeux,                                     i  235
+
+---- ---- _Hahn_, 1806, in the Library of the
+Monastery of Closterneuburg,                                      iii  396
+
+---- _Graeca, Aldus_, 1518, folio--Francis Ist's copy,
+upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii  148
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, upon thick paper, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  157
+
+---- ---- the usual copy, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+_Biblia Latina_, (_edit. Maz. 1455_) folio, 2 vols.,
+two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  106
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                 ii  190
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich,                 iii  139
+
+---- ---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  302
+
+---- ---- _Pfister_, (1461) folio, 3 vols. in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,   iii   39
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+---- _Fust und Schoeffher_, 1462: folio--three copies,
+(two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  154
+
+---- ---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,           ii  173
+
+---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                ii  190
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut,          iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  302
+
+_Biblia Latina Mentelin_--in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  404
+
+_Biblia Latino Mentelin_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- _Eggesteyn_, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  404
+
+---- ---- (ms. date, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich,       iii  141
+
+---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  302
+
+---- supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                    iii   55
+
+---- 1475, folio, _Frisner_, &c.--in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   96
+
+---- (1475 _edit. Gering_) imperfect copy in the
+Chapter Library at Bayeux,                                          i  244
+
+---- _Hailbrun_, 1476, folio: two copies, of which
+one is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,            iii  303
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at
+Strasbourg,                                                        ii  405
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna--and a
+second copy upon paper,                                           iii  303
+
+---- ---- 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,               i  208
+
+---- ---- _Froben_, 1495, 8vo. in the Public Library
+at Vire,                                                            i  298
+
+BIBLIA GERMANICA, MS. of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  290
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  403
+
+---- ---- two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,         iii   21
+
+---- ---- two copies in the Public Library at Munich,             iii  140
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut,                      iii  180
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Mentelin_, folio, in the Library at
+Closterneuburg Monastery,                                         iii  397
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Ratisbon, _Supplement_,        iii  418
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, in the Public Library
+at Landshut,                                                      iii  180
+
+---- ---- _supposed first edition_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  397
+
+_Biblia Germanica, Sorg. Augsbourg_, 1477, folio, in
+the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,                      iii  236
+
+---- ---- _Peypus_, 1524, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   22
+
+_Biblia Italica; Kalend. Augusti_, 1471--folio--in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  191
+
+---- ---- imperfect copy, in the Public Library at Stuttgart,     iii   22
+
+---- ---- _Kalend. Octobris_, 1471, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  173
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  303
+
+_Bibl. Hist, Venet_. 1492, folio--copy purchased of
+M. Fischeim at Munich,                                            iii  154
+
+_Biblia Bohemica_, 1488, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  109
+
+---- _Polonica_, 1563, folio--in the same Library,                 ii  109
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg,              iii   96
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1599; folio--in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,           ii  174
+
+_Biblia Hungarica_, 1565, folio--incomplete, in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+---- _Sclavonica_, 1581, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   22
+
+---- ---- 1587, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,              ii  109
+
+_Bible, La Sainte_, 1669, folio; large paper copy in
+the Public Library of Caen,                                         i  211
+
+BIBLIA-HISTORICA, _MS. versibus germanicis_, Sec.
+XIV.--in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                          iii   29
+
+---- _Aurea. Lat. I. Zeiner_, 1474, folio--in the
+Library of Chremsminster Monastery,                               iii  222
+
+---- _Pauperum, block book_: in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii  108
+
+---- ---- _block book_, German,--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart                                                         iii   26
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, first edition, in the same Library,           iii   27
+
+---- ---- _block book_--one German, and two Latin
+editions, in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  136
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+BIOGRAPHY, ROYAL, OF FRANCE;--XVIth century--magnificent
+MS. in the Royal Library at Paris.                                 ii   87
+
+BLAZONRY OF ARMS, BOOK OF--XIVth century, with fac-simile
+portrait of _Leopold de Sempach_ in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  299
+
+_Block books_; at Paris, ii 208, at Stuttgart, iii 26,
+at Munich, iii 134; at Landshut, iii 181; at Vienna, iii 331.
+
+BOCACE, DES CAS DES NOBLES HOMMES ET FEMMES,
+MS. XVth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,                   ii   84
+
+---- ---- two more MSS. of the same work, in the same Library,     ii   85
+
+_Boccace Ruines des-Nobles Hommes_, &c. 1476,
+_Colard Mansion_, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris,            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio Il Decamerone_, 1471, _Valdarfer_,
+folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  125
+
+---- ---- 1472, _A. de Michaelibus_, folio, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  126
+
+_Boccaccio II Decamerone_, in the Public Library at
+Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                          iii  431
+
+---- ---- 1476, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  321
+
+---- ---- _Deo Gracias, Sine Anno: forsan edit. prin_. in
+the Public Library at Munich,                                     iii  143
+
+---- _Nimphale_, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   26
+
+_Boetius, F. Johannes_, 1474, 4to. in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve. at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+_Bonifacii Papae Libr. Decret_, 1465, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Moelk Monastery,                                 iii  252
+
+---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+_Bonnie vie, ou Madenie, Chambery_, 1485, folio,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  326
+
+Book of the Gospels of the Emperor Lotharius, Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   67
+
+BREVIAIRE DE BELLEVILLE, MS. xivth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   72
+
+BREVIARY OF JOHN DUKE OF BEDFORD, MS. xvth century--in
+the Royal Library at Paris--with copper plate fac-simile
+of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same,          ii   73
+
+BREVIARE DE M. DE MONMORENCY, MS. xvith century--in the
+Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna,                iii  386
+
+BREVIARIUM ECCL. Liss. MS.; in the Public Library at
+Caen                                                                i  209
+
+BRUT D'ANGLETERE, MS. xivth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  300
+
+_Budaei Comment, in Ling. Gr_. 1529, folio--Francis 1st.
+copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  140
+
+_Burtrio, Anthon. de, Adam Rot_, 1472, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+
+C.
+
+_Caesar_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  128
+
+_Caesar_, 1460, folio, in the Mazarine Library,                     ii  192
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library,                   iii  309
+
+---- 1471. _Jenson_, in the library of Goettwic Monastery,         iii  430
+
+---- 1472. _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  309
+
+_Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot_.--1472. Folio, in
+the library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+CALENDARIUM, MS., xvith century in the Public Library
+at Munich                                                         iii  128
+
+---- ---- _Regiomontani, block book_ in the Public
+Library at Munich                                                 iii  138
+
+_Cantica Canticorum, Edit. Prin_. three copies in the
+Public Library at Augsbourg,                                      iii  138
+
+_Castille et Artus d'Algarbe_, 1587. 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris                                    ii  160
+
+_Catechisme a l'usage des grandes filles pour etres maries_         i   89
+
+_Caterina da Bologna_, no Date. 4to. in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+---- _da Sienna_, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  322
+
+---- _de Senis_, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  149
+
+_Catholicon_, 1460, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library Paris,                                               ii  114
+
+---- ---- 1460, folio, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,                iii  317
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+---- _G, Zeiner_, 1469, UPON VELLUM, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- ---- in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster,               iii  221
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  317
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, 1472, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  128
+
+_Catullus, Tibullus, et Propertius_, in the
+Mazarine Library,                                                  ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  409
+
+_Caxton, books printed by_, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  102
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Celestina Commedia de, Anvers_, 18mo., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  162
+
+_Chaucer's Book of Fame, Caxton_, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+CHESS, GAME OF, _metrical German version of_,
+MS., sec. xv., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                 iii  154
+
+_Chevalier Delibre_, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  326
+
+CHEVALIER AU LION, MS., 1470, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii  33
+
+_Chivalry_; see _Tournaments_.
+
+_Chretien de Mechel_, Cat. des Tableaux de la Galerie
+imp. et roy. de Vienne, 1781, 8vo.,                               iii  371
+
+---- _Foresii, Lat_. 1474, folio, _printed by Gotz_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  405
+
+---- _Hungariae_, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii   99
+
+_Chronicon Gottwicense_, 1732, folio, 2 vols., some
+account of this rare and valuable work,                           iii  436
+
+---- ---- referred to,                                            iii  271
+
+_Chrysostomi Comment., Gr_. 1529, folio, copy of
+Diane de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                  i  213
+
+_Cicero, de Officiis_ 1465, 4to., two copies
+UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., upon paper, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  192
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Imp.
+Lib. at Vienna,                                                   iii  309
+
+---- ---- (_Aldus_), 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+_Cicero, Epistolae ad Familiares_, 1467, Cardinal
+Bessarion's copy in the Imperial Library, at Vienna,              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S. and Pannartz_, folio,
+in the same Library,                                              iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1469, _S: and Pannartz_, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+---- ---- 1469, _I. de Spira_, in the Royal
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1502, Aldus, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession
+of M. Renouard, bookseller,                                        ii  222
+
+_Cicero, de Oratore, Monast. Soubiac_., folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  173
+
+---- ---- _V. de Spira_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  408
+
+---- _Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han_, folio, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  142
+
+---- _De Natura Deorum, V. de Spira_. 1471, folio, in
+the Mazarine Library, at Paris,                                    ii  192
+
+---- _Rhetorica Vetus, Jenson_, 1470, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                        ii  175
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  310
+
+---- _Orationes, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  310
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+(wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  141
+
+---- ---- 1519, _Aldus_, 8vo, UPON VELLUM, first volume
+only, in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  146
+
+----  ---- perfect copy, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of St.
+Genevieve,                                                         ii  177
+
+---- _Opera Omnia_, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  176
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  310
+
+---- ---- 1534, _Giunta_, folio, singular copy in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  152
+
+_Cid el Cavalero_, 1627, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal, at Paris: bound with _Seys Romances del Cid Ruy
+Diaz de Bevar_, 1627, 4to.                                         ii  161
+
+CITE DE DIEU, MS., in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii   82
+
+_Cite des Dames, (Verard)_ folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Codex Ebnerianus_, referred to                                   iii  447
+
+_Compendium Morale_, folio, UPON VELLUM, unique copy,
+late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  443
+
+COSTENTIN DU, MS., in the Public Library at Caen,                   i  209
+
+COUTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  210
+
+_Coutumes Anciennes_, 1672, 12mo. at Caen,                          i  211
+
+_Cronica del Cid. Seville_. 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  327
+
+Cronique de France, 1493, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  130
+
+---- _de Florimont_, 1529, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  164
+
+---- _de Cleriadus_, 1529, 4to.,--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+
+D.
+
+_Daigremont et Vivian_, 1538, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  166
+
+_Dante Numeister_, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  322
+
+---- _Petrus Adam_, 1472, folio, in the Library of
+Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                          ii  176
+
+---- ---- _Neapoli, Tuppi,_ folio, in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   25
+
+---- ---- _Milan_, 1478, with, the comments of G. Tuzago,
+folio, in the same collection,                                    iii   25
+
+---- 1481, folio, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  144
+
+---- 1481, folio, with xx copper-plates, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Decor Puellarum, Jenson_, 1461, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Defensio Immac. Concept. B.V.M_. 1470, _block book_,
+in the Public Library at Munich,                                  iii  139
+
+_Delphin Classics_, fine set of, in the library of
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  222
+
+_Der Veis Ritter_, 1514, folio, unique copy, in the
+Public Library at Landshut,                                       iii  183
+
+_Dion Cassius_, 1548, Gr. folio, edit. prin., Diane
+de Poictiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris,                 ii  152
+
+_Dio Chrysostom. de Regno, Valdarfer_, 4to. UPON
+VELLUM, in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,            iii  388
+
+DIOSCORIDES, GRAECE, MS., VIth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  296
+
+DIVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to. in the Library
+of the Arsenal,                                                    ii  167
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  108
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library, Vienna,                        iii  317
+
+_Durandi Rationale_, 1459, folio, in the Public
+Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                               iii  430
+
+---- ---- 1474, _I. Zeiner_, folio, in the Library
+of Chremsminster Monastery,                                       iii  222
+
+
+E.
+
+ECHECS AMOREUX. MS. folio--with copper-plate fac-simile
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   83
+
+_Echec Jeu de, (Verard)_ no date--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  132
+
+_Ein nuizlich buechlin, Augs_., 1498, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  327
+
+_Erasmus expurgatus iuxta cens. Acad. Lovan_. 1579,
+folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See _Testament.
+Novum,_ 1516.                                                     iii  102
+
+EVANGELIA QUATUOR, Lat. MS. VIth century, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   64
+
+---- ---- VIIIth century, in the Library at
+Chremsminster Monastery,                                          iii  224
+
+---- ---- IXth century--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  123
+
+---- ---- XIth century, in the same Library,                      iii  124
+
+---- ---- Xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut,         iii  179
+
+---- ---- XIth century--in the Public Library at Stuttgart,       iii   27
+
+---- ---- XIVth century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna        iii  291
+
+EVANGELIUM STI. IOHANNIS, MS. Lat. XIth century, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   71
+
+_Evangelia cum Epistolis: Ital_. folio--in the
+Library of Goettwic Monastery,                                     iii  428
+
+Evangelistarium, of Charlemagne, MS. folio, in the Private
+Library of the King, at Paris,                                     ii  199
+
+_Euclides_, 1482, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  139
+
+---- ---- four varying copies of, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  143
+
+---- Ratdolt. 1485, in the Library of the Monastery
+of St. Florian,                                                   iii  236
+
+_Euripides, Gr_., 1503, _Aldus_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  145
+
+_Eustathius in Homerum_, 1542--folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  138
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  151
+
+---- ---- 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Eutropius_, 1471, _Laver_, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   39
+
+_Exhortation against the Turks_ (1472) in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  135
+
+
+F.
+
+_Fait de la Guerre C. Mansion_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  127
+
+_Fazio Dita Mundi_, 1474, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Ficheti Rhetorica--Gering_--4to.--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+_Fiorio e Biancifiore, Bologna_, 1480, folio--in the
+Library of the Arsenal, at Paris,                                  ii  161
+
+_Fierbras_, 1486, folio--Prince Eugene's copy, in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  327
+
+_Fortalitium Fidei_--folio--no date--in the Public
+Library, at Munich: curious printed advertisement in this copy,   iii  145
+
+_Frezzi Il Quadriregio_, 1481, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  323
+
+_Fulgosii Anteros_--1496--folio--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  323
+
+FUNERAILES DES REINES DE FRANCE, MS. folio--in the
+Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                           iii  387
+
+
+G.
+
+_Galenus, Gr_. 1525, folio. _Aldus_--large paper,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+_Galien et Jaqueline_, 1525, folio--in the Library of
+the Arsenal, at Paris,                                             ii  163
+
+_Gallia Christiana_, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library
+at Bayeux,                                                         ii  244
+
+_Games of Chess, Caxton_, folio, 2d. edit.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+GENESIS--MS. of the _ivth century--fragments of Chapters
+of_, account of--with fac-simile Illuminations, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  289
+
+_Gerard Comte de Nevers_, 1526, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Geyler, Navic. Fat_. 1511, 4to.--in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  102
+
+_Gloria Mulierum Jenson_, 4to.--in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  324
+
+_Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  333
+
+_Gospels_, folio--MS. xiiith century--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  386
+
+_Grammatica Rythmica_, 1466, folio--in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  114
+
+_Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher_, 1472, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,               iii  398
+
+_Guillaume de Palerne_, 1552, 4to, in the Library of the
+Arsenal: another edition, 1634, 4to.,                              ii  166
+
+_Guy de Warwick_, no date, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  159
+
+_Gyron Le Courtoys_, no date, _Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  130
+
+
+H.
+
+_Hartlieb's Chiromancy, block book_, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  115
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Helayne La Belle_, 1528, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  166
+
+_Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aulide_, Gr. et Lat. 1507,
+UPON VELLUM, 8vo.                                                  ii  145
+
+_Hector de Troye, Arnoullet_, 4to., in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+_Heures, printed by Vostre_, fine copy of, in the Public
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  210
+
+_Herodotus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldus_, folio, large paper
+copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                                ii  150
+
+HISTORIA B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., folio, xvth century,
+in the Public Library at Paris,                                    ii   76
+
+---- ---- _block book_, folio, in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  331
+
+_Historiae Augusta Scriptores_, 1475, folio, _P. de
+Lavagna_, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  408
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1521, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+_History of Bohemia_, _by Pope Pius II_, 1475,
+in the Public Library at Augsbourg,                               iii   99
+
+HISTOIRE ROMAINE, MS, xvth century; folio, 3 vols.
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   87
+
+_Homeri Opera, Gr_., 1488, folio, UNCUT, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  129
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  311
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  432
+
+---- ---- _No date_, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii  145
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  177
+
+---- ---- 1808, _Bodoni_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  129
+
+---- ---- _Batrachomyomachia_, _Gr._ 4to., edit.
+prin. in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  311
+
+HORAE B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., 8vo., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii   74
+
+---- ---- folio, belonging to ANN OF BRITANNY, with copper
+plate  engraving of her portrait therefrom, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   78
+
+---- ---- belonging to Pope Paul III. in the same Library,         ii   80
+
+---- ---- MS., XVth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   37
+
+---- ---- 8vo., in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna,    iii  386
+
+---- STI. LUDOVICI, MS., XIIIth century, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  157
+
+---- ---- _Gr._ 1497, 12mo. _printed by Aldus_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  103
+                                                                      -147
+
+---- ---- purchase of a copy from Mr. Stoeger, at Munich,          iii  151
+
+HORATIUS, M. S., XIIth century in the Moelk Monastery,             iii  258
+
+---- Edit. Prin. 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg,        iii   96
+
+---- _Venet_. 1494, 4to., purchased of Mr. Fischeim,
+at Munich,                                                        iii  154
+
+---- 1501, _Aldus_, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  146
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich,           iii  143
+
+_Horloge de Sapience, Verard_, 1493, folio,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  131
+
+HORTUS DELICIARUM, MS., XIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Strasbourg,                                             ii  401
+
+HORTULUS ANIMAE, MS., XVth century, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  294
+
+---- ---- 1498, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   38
+
+---- _Rosarum, &c_., 1499, 8vo., in the Public Library
+at Augsbourg,                                                     iii  101
+
+_Huet, Demonstrat. Evang_. 1690, (1679?) folio, unique
+copy in the Public Library at Caen,                                 i  211
+
+_Huon de Bourdeaux_, four editions of, in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  163
+
+
+I.
+
+_Isocrates, Gr., Aldus_, 1534, folio, large paper copy
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  148
+
+---- ---- Printed at Milan, 1493, folio,                           ii  149
+
+_Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  103
+
+---- ---- _same edition_, in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  155
+
+_Jason, printed by Caxton_, in the Imp. Lib. at Vienna,           iii  332
+
+_Iehan de Saintre, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  165
+
+---- _Paris, Bonfons_, no date, 4to., in the same collection,      ii  165
+
+JEROME, ST., VIE, MORT, ET MIRACLES DE, MS., XVth
+century, in the Public Library of Stuttgart,                      iii   31
+
+_Ieronimi Epistolae_, 1468, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  304
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the Library
+of Closterneuburg Monastery,                                      iii  398
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+----  ---- 1470, _Schoeffher_, in the Public Library
+at Strasbourg,                                                     ii  406
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,       iii  431
+
+---- ---- _Parmae_, 1480, folio, in the Public
+Library at Augsbourg,                                             iii   98
+
+_Josephus, Lat_. 1480, folio, in the Library of the
+Monastery of St. Florian,                                         iii  236
+
+---- _Gallice_, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  328
+
+_Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date_, 4to.,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  166
+
+_Jouvencel le_, 1497, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Juvenalis_, folio, _V. de Spira_, edit. prin. in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  409
+
+---- _Ulric. Han. typ. grand_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  311
+
+---- 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen,                    i  208
+
+--- _I. de Fivizano_, folio, in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  311
+
+
+L.
+
+_Lactantii Institutiones_, 1465, folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  112
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  172
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- ---- 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  192
+
+---- ---- _Rostoch_, 1476, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  305
+
+LANCELOT DU LAC, MS., XIVth century, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii   88
+
+---- ---- another MS. of about the same period, in the same
+Library,                                                           ii   89
+
+---- ---- another manuscript in the same library,                  ii  89
+
+
+---- ---- 1488, _Verard_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                        iii   328
+
+---- ---- 1494, _Verard_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                    iii  130
+
+---- ---- 1496, _Verard,_ folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  328
+
+_Lascaris Gram. Graec_. 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  127
+
+LEGES BAVARICAE, MS., XIIIth century, in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  179
+
+_Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson_, 1476,
+folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,                           ii  191
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  324
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Gering_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Caen,                                                            i  208
+
+_Les Deux Amans, Verard_, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  328
+
+LIBER GENERATIONIS IES. XTI. MS. VIIth century:
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   70
+
+_Liber Modorum significandi_, 1480, _St.
+Albans_,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                           ii  125
+
+_Liber Moralisat. Bibl_. 1474, Ulm, folio--copy purchased
+of M. Fischeim, at Munich,                                        iii  154
+
+LIBER PRECUM, _cum not. et cant_. MS. _pervet_. in the
+  Royal Library at Paris,                                          ii   71
+
+---- ---- MS. xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich,      iii  131
+
+_Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis--block books_--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  331
+
+_Life of Christ, block book_--in the Public Library at
+Munich,                                                           iii  134
+
+_Littleton's Tenures, Lettou_, &c. folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  333
+
+LIVIUS, MS. XVth century--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  298
+
+---- 1469, folio,--in the Royal Library at Paris,                  ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Munich,                        iii  142
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  122
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same Library,                         ii  122
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,             iii  397
+
+---- 1472, _S. and Pann_., folio, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  123
+
+_Lombardi Petri Sentent. (Eggesteyn)_, folio, in
+the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                          iii  399
+
+_Lucanus_, 1469, folio--in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- 1475, folio, cum comment. Omniboni--in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+_Luciani Opera_, Gr. 1496, folio--fine copy, in
+the possession of M. Renouard, at Paris,                           ii  230
+
+---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, folio--large paper copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  151
+
+---- ---- _Opusc. Quaed. Lat_. 1494--4to.--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                        iii  311
+
+_Lucretius_, 1486, folio--in the King's Private
+Collection at Stuttgart,                                          iii   39
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1515, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, (supposed
+to be unique) in the Royal Library at Paris,                       ii  146
+
+_Luctus Christianorum, Jenson_, 4to.--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Ludolphus Vita Christi (Eggesteyn)_, 1474, folio,
+in the Public Library at Nancy,                                    ii  363
+
+---- ---- _De Terra Sancta_, &c. 4to.--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  317
+
+
+M.
+
+_Mabrian_, 1625, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at Paris,                                                          ii  163
+
+_Maguelone, La Belle_, 1492, _Trepperel_, 4to.--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  328
+
+_Maius, de propriet. prisc. verb_. 1477. folio--_B. de
+Colonia_--in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                     ii  407
+
+_Mammotrectus, Schoeffher_, 1470--folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  317
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg,                       iii  398
+
+---- ---- _H. de Helie_, 1470, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+MANDEVILLE, MS. _German_--in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   32
+
+_Manilius_, 1474, folio,--in the King's Private
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   39
+
+_Marco Polo, Germ_. 1477, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  329
+
+_Marsilius Ficinus: In Dionysium Areopagitam_, no
+Date, folio, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,            ii  176
+
+_Martialis_, 1475, folio--in the Library of a Capuchin
+Monastery, near Vienna,                                           iii  403
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1502, 8vo. two copies UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  146
+
+MAYNI IASONIS EPITALAMION, MS. 4to.--in the Emperor's
+Private Library at Vienna,                                        iii  387
+
+_Mayster of Sentence, Caxton_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  332
+
+_Meinart, St. Life of, block book_: in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+_Melusina, Historie von der, Germ_. no date, folio,
+in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                       iii   41
+
+_Melusine, P. Le Noir_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal        ii  167
+
+_Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles Lettres
+&c. at Rouen_, vol. i. page 49, of a _similar_ Society
+at Caen,                                                            i  185
+
+_Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di_, 1533,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  159
+
+_Meurin Fils d'Oger, Paris, Bonfons_, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  167
+
+_Milles et Amys, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  131
+
+---- ---- _Rouen_, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal
+at ditto,                                                          ii  162
+
+_Mirabilia Urbis Romae, block book_,--in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  137
+
+MISSALE, MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   30
+
+---- ---- XVth century, two in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   31
+
+---- ---- of Charles the Bold, XVth century--in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna, with fac-simile,                  iii  292
+
+---- ---- XVth century,--in the Public Library at Munich,         iii  129
+
+---- ---- 8vo.--belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  180
+
+---- _Herbipolense_ (1479), folio, UPON VELLUM, in
+the imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  306
+
+---- ---- _Venet_. 1488, folio,--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna,                    iii  388
+
+---- _Pro. Patav. Eccl. Ritu_, 1494, folio, in the
+Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                     iii  403
+
+---- _Mozarabicum_, 1500, folio--with the Breviary
+1502, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                      ii  156
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  178
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  305
+
+---- _Parisiense_, 1522, folio--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                            ii  156
+
+_Missal of Henry IV_. XVIth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   81
+
+_Missa Defunctorum, Viennae_, 1499, folio, in the Library
+of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna,                             iii  403
+
+_Montaigne's Essays_, 1635, folio, large paper, in the
+Library at Caen,                                                    i  212
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio,--in the Royal
+Library, at Paris,                                                 ii  134
+
+_Monte Sancto di Dio_, 1477, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  324
+
+_Moreri des Normans; par I.A. Guiat_, MS. in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  209
+
+_Morgant le Geant_, 1650, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  164
+
+_Mori Thomae Opera, edit. Lovan_. 1566, folio, in the
+Library of the Lycee at Bayeux,                                     i  245
+
+_Munsteri Cosmographia_, 1556, folio, copy of, belonging
+to D. de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen,                 ii  214
+
+_Mureti Disticha_, Lat. and Fr. _chap book_, at Vire,               i  286
+
+
+N.
+
+_Nanceidos Liber_, 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. notes of
+Bochart, in the Public Library at Caen,                             i  212
+
+---- ---- two copies of, one upon large paper, in the
+Public Library at Nancy,                                           ii  362
+
+---- ---- one, UPON VELLUM, in the possession of Messrs. Payne
+and Foss,                                                          ii  362
+
+_Nef des Folz du Monde_, Verard, no date, folio--UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  133
+
+---- ---- Printed by the same, UPON VELLUM, in the
+same library,                                                      ii  133
+
+_Nef des Dames, Arnollet, a Lyon_, 4to.--in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  160
+
+_Niger P., contra perfidos Judaeos_, 1475, folio--in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+_Nonius Marcellus_, 1471, folio,--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+_Nova Statuta, Machlinia_, in the Royal Library at Paris,          ii  125
+
+_Novelas, por de Maria Zayas_, 1637, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  160
+
+---- _Amorosas_, 1624, 4to. in the same Library,                   ii  160
+
+
+O.
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., XVth century, in the
+Emperor's private collection at Vienna,                           iii  386
+
+---- ---- MS., XVIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,    iii  129
+
+OFFICIUM B.M. VIRGINIS, MS., in the same library,                 iii  130
+
+_Ogier le Danois_, 1525, folio, in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  162
+
+_Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azoguidi_, 1471, wanting two
+leaves, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  141
+
+---- _Fasti, Azoguidi_, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,        iii  312
+
+---- _Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz_, 1471, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  312
+
+---- _Epistolae et Fasti_, folio, in the same collection,          iii  312
+
+
+P.
+
+_Paris et Vienne, Paris_, no date, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  164
+
+_Pentateuch, Hebr._ 1491, folio, in the Royal Library at
+Paris,                                                             ii  111
+
+_Petrarcha Sonetti_, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  325
+
+---- ---- 1473, _Zarotus_, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1473, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Comment. Borstii, Bologn_., 1475, folio, two
+copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one
+belonged to Prince Eugene,                                        iii  325
+
+---- ---- _Bolog._, 1476, folio, (_Azoguidi_[178])
+with the comment of Philelphus, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   25
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  147
+
+---- ---- 1514, 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the possession of
+M. Renouard, bookseller,                                           ii  229
+
+---- ---- 1521, 12mo., in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   41
+
+---- _Sonetti cum Comment. Velutelli_, 1546, 8vo.,                iii   41
+
+---- _Hist. Griseldis, Lat_., 1473, folio,--Prince Eugene's
+copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                           iii  318
+
+_Phalaris Epist_., 1471, 4to., in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  318
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio, in the same collection,             iii  319
+
+PHILOSTRATUS, _Lat_., MS., XVth century in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  297
+
+_Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne_, 1490,
+4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                       ii  165
+
+_Pindarus, Gr_. 1502, _Aldi_, 12mo., in the Library
+of the Monastery of St. Florian,                                  iii  237
+
+_Plautus_, 1472, folio, edit. prin. in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  192
+
+---- 1522, _Aldus_, 4to., Grolier's copy, apparently
+_large paper_, in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  148
+
+_Plinius Senior_, 1469, folio, one copy, UPON VELLUM,
+and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,             ii  120
+
+---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,                        ii  174
+
+---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,         iii  312
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  120
+
+---- ---- _Jenson_, 1472, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  313
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Library of Closterneuburg
+Monastery,                                                        iii  398
+
+---- ---- _Ital_. 1476, _Jenson_, folio, UPON VELLUM,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the same collection,                      ii  121
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,          iii  313
+
+_Plutarchi Vitae; Parallellae, Ital_., folio, Litt. R.,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  409
+
+---- ---- the same edition in the Monastic Library at
+Closterneuburg,                                                   iii  398
+
+_Plutarchi Opuscula Moralia, Gr_, 1509, _Aldus_,
+UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                        ii  137
+
+_Poetae Graeci Principes, Gr_., 1556, folio, large paper,
+De Thou's copy in the Royal Library at Paris,                      ii  152
+
+_Pogii Facetiae, Monast. Euseb_., folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  319
+
+---- _Hist. Fiorent._, 1476, folio, UPON VELLUM and paper,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  325
+
+POLYBIUS, _Gr_. MS., sec. XVI., Diane de Poictiers's copy,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii   99
+
+_Polybius, Lat., S. and Pannartz_, 1473, folio, in the
+Library of Closterneuburg Monastery,                              iii  398
+
+PRAYER BOOK OF CHARLES THE BALD, Ill. MS. 4to, in
+the Royal Library at Paris,                                        ii   67
+
+_Priscianus_, 1470, _V. de Spira_, folio, UPON
+VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                             ii  139
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  319
+
+---- ---- _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  319
+
+----, _Aldus_, 1527, 8vo., Grolier's copy, upon large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+----, _Printed by V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve,                                         ii  175
+
+PSALTERIUM, MS., IXth century, of Charles the Bald; in
+the Public Library at Paris;                                       ii   66
+
+---- ----, Sti. Ludovici, XIIIth century, in the
+same library,                                                      ii   68
+
+---- ----, XIth century, in the Public Library at Stuttgart       iii   27
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the same Collection,                 iii   28
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Royal Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   36
+
+---- ----, XIIth century, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  125
+
+---- ----, with most splendid illuminations, of the XVIth
+century, in the same library,                                     iii  133
+
+---- ----, St. Austin, XVth century, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   33
+
+---- ---- _Latine_, 1457, _Fust and Schoeffher_, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  104
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  306
+
+_Psalterium Latine_, 1459, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1490, folio, _Schoeffher_, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  105
+
+---- ----, 1502, folio, _Schoeffher_, in the same library,         --  106
+
+---- ----, UPON VELLUM, _Printed by Schoeffher's Son_,
+1516, folio,                                                       ii  106
+
+---- ----, without date--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,       iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Lips_. 1486, 4to.--in the Public Library at
+Landshut,                                                         iii  181
+
+PTOLEMAEUS, _Lat_. MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,        ii   85
+
+---- ----  MS. folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,         ii   59
+
+---- ----, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich,          iii  142
+
+---- ----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  319
+
+---- ----, _Printed by Buckinck_, 1478, folio, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  320
+
+
+Q.
+
+_Quintilianus, I. de Lignam_, 1470, folio, in the
+Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                               ii  175
+
+---- ----, 1471, _Jenson_, folio, in the Public Library
+at Nuremberg, _Supplement_,                                       iii  431
+
+
+R.
+
+_Ratdolt_, specimens of the types from his press, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  144
+
+_Recueil des Histoires de Troye, printed by Caxton_,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  102
+
+---- ---- _printed by Verard_, UPON VELLUM,
+in the same Library,                                               ii  102
+
+_Regnars, les, &c. Verard_, 4to. Prince Eugene's copy
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                iii  329
+
+_Regulae, Confitend. peccata sua. Ital_., 1473, 4to., in
+the Imperial Library at Vienna,                                   iii  326
+
+_Repertorium Statut. Ord. Carth_. 1510, folio, in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  202
+
+_Richard sans Peur, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  158
+
+---- _Bonfons, no date_, 4to., in the same library,                ii  158
+
+_Robert le Diable, Janot, no date_, 4to., in the Library of
+the Arsenal at Paris,                                              ii  158
+
+_Romances, MS_., in the Royal Library at Paris,                    ii   88
+
+---- ----, _printed_, in the same Library,                         ii  131
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                    ii  407
+
+---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich,                       iii  126
+
+_Ronsard_, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+ROSE, ROMAN DE LA, MS. XIVth century, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii   95
+
+---- ---- MS. XIVth century, in the Public Library at
+Stuttgart,                                                        iii   31
+
+---- ---- _Verard_, no date, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 ii   131
+
+_Rossei opus elegans, &c., Pynson_, 1523, 4to.,
+the author's copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More,
+in the Public Library at Landshut,                                iii  183
+
+
+S.
+
+SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA _Pap. Greg_., MS., VIth
+century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                       iii  290
+
+_Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram_., copy in the chapter
+Library at Bayeux, i. 244, in the Library of the Lycee
+at Bayeux,                                                          i  245
+
+_Sannazarii Arcadia_, 1514, _Aldus_, 8vo., Grolier's
+copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii  148
+
+_Sannazarius de partu Virginis, Aldi_, 1527, 12mo. in the
+King's Private Library at Stuttgart,                              iii   41
+
+SCHAKZABEL, DER, MS. 1400 or 1450, in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   32
+
+_Seguin, Histore Militaire des Bocains_, quoted,
+i 300, 301, 302, _sur l'histoire de l'industrie du
+Bocage, en general, et de la ville de Vire sa capitale
+en particuliere_, 1810, 8vo.,                                       i  303
+
+_Servius in Virgilium_, see _Virgilius_.
+
+_Sforziada La_, 1480, folio, UPON VELLUM, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  134
+
+_Shyppe of Fools_, 1509, 8vo. _printed by W.
+Worde_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris,                ii  103
+
+_SIBILAE, &c_., MS., xvth century, in the Public
+Library at Munich,                                                iii  127
+
+_Silius Italicus, Laver_, 1471, folio, in the
+Mazarine Library at Paris,                                         ii  193
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  313
+
+---- ---- _S. and Pannartz_, 1471, folio, in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                     iii   26
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  332
+
+_Spec. Hum, Salv_, 1476, folio, _printed by Richel_,
+in the Public Library at Strasbourg,                               ii  407
+
+_Spec. Morale P. Bellovacensis_, 1476, folio,                      ii  405
+
+---- _Judiciale Durandus_, Printed by Hussner and
+Rekenhub, 1473, folio,                                             ii  405
+
+_Speculum Stultorum_, _no date_, 4to., in the
+Public Library at Caen,                                             i  211
+
+_Statius in usum Delphini_, 4to., two copies, in the
+Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                                   ii  156
+
+---- ---- beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsminster
+monastery,                                                        iii  222
+
+_Statutes of Richard III. Machlinia_, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  124
+
+---- ---- in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart,             iii   41
+
+_Stephani, H. Gloss. Graec_. 1573, &c., folio--_cum notis
+mss: Bocharti_, copy of, in the Public Library at Caen,             i  211
+
+_Successos y Prodigos de Amor_, 1626, 4to., in the Library
+of the Arsenal at Paris,                                           ii  161
+
+_Suetonius I. de Lignamine_, 1470, folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  175
+
+_Suetonius S. and Pannartz_, 1470, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  313
+
+---- _Jenson_, 1471, 4to.,--in the same collection,               iii  313
+
+---- _Reisinger_, 4to.,--_without date_, in the
+private royal collection at Stuttgart,                            iii   39
+
+_Suidas, Gr_., 1499, folio--Lambecius's copy, in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  314
+
+---- 1503, folio, _Aldus_--large paper copy, in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  151
+
+_Sypperts de Vinevaulx, Paris, no date_, 4to.--in
+the Library of the Arsenal at Paris,                               ii  159
+
+
+T.
+
+_Tacitus, I. de Spira_, folio, edit. prin. in the
+Public Library at Stuttgart,                                      iii   24
+
+----, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                          iii  314
+
+_Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata_, the author's
+autograph--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                     iii  300
+
+_Terentius, Mentelin_, folio--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  314
+
+----, _Ulric Han_, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,           ii  136
+
+----, _Reisinger_, folio--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   23
+
+_Testamentum Novum, Hollandice et Russ_., 1717, folio,
+in the Royal Library at Paris,                                     ii  110
+
+---- ----, _Bohemice, Sec_. xv--in the Imperial Library at
+Vienna,                                                           iii  307
+
+---- ----, _Graece Erasmi_, in the King's Private Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   39
+
+---- ----, _R. Stephani_, 1550, folio--Diane de Poictiers's
+copy--in the Royal Library at Paris,                               ii  150
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,                                       ii  179
+
+---- ----, two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich,        iii  147
+
+_Tewrdanckhs_, 1517, folio, UPON VELLUM, two copies
+of, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                            iii  329
+
+---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,        iii  238
+
+_Theophrastus_, 1497, Gr. _Aldus_,--Diane de
+Poictiers's copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at Paris,       ii  231
+
+_Thucydide, Gourmont_, folio, _Verard_--UPON VELLUM,
+in the Imperial Library at Vienna--Prince Eugene's copy,          iii  330
+
+TITE LIVE, MS. folio--in the Royal Library at Paris,               ii   86
+
+_Tityrell and Pfartzival_, 1477, folio--in the Public
+Library at Landshut,                                              iii  181
+
+---- ---- in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian,         iii  236
+
+TOURNAMENTS, BOOK OF, MS. xvth century--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii   95
+
+---- ---- duplicate and more recent copy of                        ii   99
+
+_Tracts_, Printed by Pfister, at Bamberg, folio,                   ii  111
+
+_Trebisond, Paris_, 4to.--in the Library of the
+Arsenal at Paris,                                                  ii  167
+
+TRISTAN, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii   91
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same library,                        ii   91
+
+---- ----, a third MS. in the same library,                        ii   92
+
+---- _Gall_. Sec. XIII., in the Imperial Library
+at Vienna,                                                        iii  299
+
+---- ----, another MS. in the same Collection,                    iii  300
+
+_Tristran, Verard_, folio--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  330
+
+_Trithemii Annales Hirsaugienses_, 1690, folio--in
+the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster,                    iii  227
+
+---- ----, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery,
+near Vienna,                                                      iii  403
+
+_Troys filz de Roys_, Paris, no date, 4to.--in the
+Library of the Arsenal,                                            ii  164
+
+_Tully of Old Age, Caxton_--in the Royal Library at Paris,         ii  124
+
+_Turrecremata I. de Meditationes, Ulric Han_, 1467,
+folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                         iii  320
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg,
+_Supplement_,                                                     iii  430
+
+---- ----, 1473, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,               iii  307
+
+
+V.
+
+VALERIUS MAXIMUS, MS. xvth century--in the Imperial
+Library at Vienna,                                                iii  298
+
+---- ---- _Mentelin_, folio--two copies in the
+Public Library at Strasbourg,                                      ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- ---- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,                      iii   24
+
+---- ---- 1475, _Coes & Stol_, folio--in
+the Public Library at Caen,                                         i  208
+
+---- ---- _Aldus_, 1534, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large
+paper, in the Royal Library at Paris,                              ii  148
+
+_Valturius De Re Militari_, 1472, folio--in the
+Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna,                iii  321
+
+_Vaudevires, Basselin_, 1811,                                       i  212
+                                                                      -289
+
+_Vie des Peres_, 1494, folio, at Caen,                              i  208
+
+_Virgilius, S. & Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the
+Royal Library at Paris,                                            ii  116
+
+---- ---- in the Public Library at Strasbourg--incomplete,         ii  408
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1470, _V. de Spira_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  117
+
+---- ---- upon paper, in the Royal Library  at Paris,              ii  117
+
+---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna,                      iii  314
+
+---- 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, folio--in the Royal
+Library at Paris,                                                 iii  118
+
+_Virgilius_, 1471, _S. and Pannartz_, late
+in the Public Library at Stuttgart,                               iii   23
+
+---- ---- 1471, _V. de Spira_, folio--in the
+Imperial Library at Vienna,                                       iii  315
+
+---- ---- 1471, _Adam_, folio--late in the Public
+Library at Stuttgart,                                             iii   23
+
+---- _Servius in Virgilium_. _Ulric Han_,
+folio--Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the Mazarine
+Library at Paris,                                                  ii  191
+
+---- ---- _Valdarfer_, 1471, folio--in
+the Public Library at Strasbourg,                                  ii  408
+
+---- ---- 1478, _Gering_, 4to., in the Royal Library
+at Paris,                                                          ii  119
+
+---- _Aldus_, 1501, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in the
+Public Library at Munich,                                         iii  146
+
+---- ---- 1505, 8vo.--in the possession of M. Renouard,
+bookseller,                                                        ii  230
+
+---- _S. and Pannartz_, (1469) folio--in the Library
+of Ste. Genevieve,                                                 ii  174
+
+---- _Gallice_, 1582, folio--in the Public Library at
+Caen,                                                               i  212
+
+VITAE SANCTORUM, MS. Sec. XII.--in the Public Library
+at Stuttgart,                                                     iii   29
+
+_Vitruvius Giuntae_, 1513, 8vo.--UPON VELLUM, in
+the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris,                            ii  178
+
+Vocabularius, Bechtermuntze, 1467, 4to.                            ii  115
+
+
+U.
+
+_Utino, T. de, Sermones_, _printed by Gering_--in
+the Public Library at Vire,                                         i  297
+
+
+W.
+
+WILLIBROODI STI. VITA. AUCT. ALCUINO. MS. xith
+century, in the Private Royal Library at Stuttgart,               iii   38
+
+
+[178] In the page referred to, I have conjectured it to be printed by
+Ulric Han-or Reisinger. To these names I add the above.
+
+
+
+PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE
+Shakspeare Press.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and
+Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume One, by Thomas Frognall  Dibdin
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY ***
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