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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/16220-8.txt b/16220-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b1acb7b --- /dev/null +++ b/16220-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2488 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during the +Year 1844, by Alexander Clark Bullitt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during the Year 1844 + By a Visiter + +Author: Alexander Clark Bullitt + +Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16220] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE, + +DURING THE YEAR 1844, + +BY A VISITER. + + + +By + +Alexander Clark Bullitt + + + +LOUISVILLE, KY.: +MORTON & GRISWOLD. +1845. + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by +MORTON & GRISWOLD, +in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Kentucky. + +Printed by MORTON & GRISWOLD. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Page 11th, fifth line from the bottom; for _faltering_, read pattering. + +Page 46th, eighth line from the top--"They are well furnished, and, +without question, _would with_ good and comfortable accommodations, +pure air, and uniform temperature, cure the pulmonary consumption. +_The_ invalids in the Cave ought to be cured, &c.," + + _read_, + +They are well furnished, and, without question, _if_ good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air, and uniform temperature, _could_ +cure the pulmonary consumption, _the_ invalids in the Cave ought to be +cured. + +Page 101, last line: read, "It has no brother: it _is like_ no brother." + + + + +PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT. + + +To meet the calls so frequently made upon as by intelligent visitors +to our City, for some work descriptive of the Mammoth Cave, we are, at +length, enabled to present the public a succinct, but instructive +narrative of a visit to this "Wonder of Wonders," from the pen of a +gentleman, who, without professing to have explored ALL that is +curious or beautiful or sublime in its vast recesses, has yet seen +every thing that has been seen by others, and has described enough to +quicken and enlighten the curiosity of those who have never visited +it. + +Aware of the embarrassment which most persons experience who design +visiting the Cave, owing to the absence of any printed itinerary of +the various routes leading to it, we have supplied, in the present +volume, this desideratum, from information received from reliable +persons residing on the different roads here enumerated. The road from +Louisville to the Cave, and thence to Nashville, is graded the entire +distance, and the greater part of it M'Adamized. From Louisville to +the mouth of Salt river, twenty miles, the country is level, with a +rich alluvial soil, probably at some former period the bed of a lake. +A few miles below the former place and extending to the latter, a +chain of elevated hills is seen to the South-East, affording beautiful +and picturesque situations for country seats, and strangely overlooked +by the rich and tasteful. The river is crossed by a ferry, and the +traveler is put down at a comfortable inn in the village of West +Point. Two miles from the mouth of Salt river, begins the ascent of +Muldrow's Hill. The road is excellent, and having elevated hills on +either side, is highly romantic to its summit, five miles. From the +top of this hill to Elizabethtown, the country is well settled, though +the improvements are generally indifferent--the soil thin, but well +adapted to small-grain, and oak the prevailing growth. Elizabethtown, +twenty-five miles from the mouth of Salt river, is quite a pretty and +flourishing village, built chiefly of brick, with several churches and +three large inns. From this place to Nolin creek, the distance is ten +miles. Here there is a small town, containing some ten or twelve log +houses, a large saw and grist mill, and a comfortable and very neat +inn, kept by Mr. Mosher. Immediately after crossing this creek, the +traveler enters "Yankee Street," as the inhabitants style this section +of the road. For a distance of ten or twelve miles from Nolin toward +Bacon creek, the land belongs, or did belong to the former Postmaster +General, Gideon Granger, and on either side of the road, to the extent +of Mr. G.'s possessions, are settlements made by emigrants from New +York and the New England States. From Bacon creek to Munfordsville, +eight miles, the country is pleasantly undulating, and here, indeed +the whole route from Elizabethtown to the Cave, passes through what +was until recently a Prairie, or, in the language of the country, +"Barrens," and renders it highly interesting, especially to the +botanist, from the multitude and variety of flowers with which it +abounds during the Spring and Autumn months. Munfordsville, and +Woodsonville directly opposite, are situated on Green river, on high +and broken ground. They are small places, in each of which, however, +are comfortable inns. Boats laden with tobacco and other produce, +descend from this point and from a considerable distance above, to New +Orleans. About two and a half miles beyond Munfordsville, the new +State road to the Cave, (virtually made by Dr. Croghan, at a great +expense,) leaves the Turnpike, and joins it again at the Dripping +Springs, eight miles below, on the route to Nashville. This road, in +going from Louisville to Nashville, is not only the shortest by three +and a half miles, but to the Cave it is from ten to twelve miles +shorter than the one taken by visiters previous to its construction. +It therefore lessens the inconvenience, delay and consequent expense +to which travelers were formerly subjected. The road itself is an +excellent one, the country through which it passes highly picturesque, +and Dr. Croghan has entitled himself to the gratitude of the traveling +community by his liberality and enterprise in constructing it. + +Persons visiting the Cave by Steamer, (a boat leaves Louisville for +Bowling-Green every week) will find much to interest them in the +admirable locks and dams, rendering the navigation of Green river safe +and good at all seasons for boats of a large class. Passengers can +obtain conveyances at all times and at moderate rates, from +Bowling-Green, by the Dripping Spring, to the Cave, distant twenty-two +miles. Fifteen miles of this road is M'Adamized, the remainder is +graded and not inferior to the finished portion. The last eight miles +from the Dripping Spring to the Cave, cannot fail to excite the +admiration of every one who delights in beholding wild and beautiful +scenery. A visit to the Cedar Springs on this route, is alone worth a +journey of many miles. Passengers on the upper turnpike, from +Bardstown to Nashville, can, on reaching Glasgow, at all times procure +conveyances to the Cave, either by Bell's or by Prewett's Knob. + +Arrived at the Cave, the visitor alights at a spacious hotel, the +general arrangements, attendance and _cuisine_ of which, are adapted +to the most fastidious taste. He feels that as far as the "creature +comforts" are necessary to enjoyment, the prospect is full of promise; +nor will he be disappointed. And now, this first and most important +preliminary to a traveler settled to his perfect content, he may +remain for weeks and experience daily gratification, "_Stephen_ his +guide," in wandering through some of its two hundred and twenty-six +avenues--in gazing, until he is oppressed with the feeling of their +magnificence, at some of its forty-seven domes,--in listening, +until their drowsy murmurs pain the sense, to some of its many +water-falls,--or haply intent upon discovery, he hails some new vista, +or fretted roof, or secret river, or unsounded lake, or crystal +fountain, with as much rapture as Balboa, from "that peak in Darien," +gazed on the Pacific; he is assured that he "has a poet," and an +historian too. Stephen has linked his name to dome, or avenue, or +river, and it is already immortal--in the Cave. + +Independent of the attractions to be found in the Cave, there is much +above ground to gratify the different tastes of visiters. There is a +capacious ball-room, ninety feet by thirty, with a fine band of +music,--a ten-pin alley,--romantic walks and carriage-drives in all +directions, rendered easy of access by the fine road recently +finished. The many rare and beautiful flowers in the immediate +vicinity of the Cave, invite to exercise, and bouquets as exquisite as +were ever culled in garden or green-house, may be obtained even as +late as August. The fine sport the neighborhood affords to the hunter +and the angler--Green river, just at hand, offers such "store of +fish," as father Walton or his son and disciple Cotton, were they +alive again, would love to meditate and angle in!--and the woods! +Capt. Scott or Christopher North himself, might grow weary of the +sight of game, winged or quadruped. + + + + +INTERESTING FACTS. + + + 1. Accidents of no kind have ever occurred in the Mammoth Cave. + + 2. Visiters, going in or coming out of the Cave, are not liable to +contract colds; on the contrary, colds are commonly relieved by a +visit in the Cave. + + 3. No impure air exists in any part of the Cave. + + 4. Reptiles, of no description, have ever been seen in the Cave; on +the contrary, they, as well as quadrupeds, avoid it. + + 5. Combustion is perfect in all parts of the Cave. + + 6. Decomposition and consequent putrefaction are unobservable in all +parts of the Cave. + + 7. The water of the Cave is of the purest kind; and, besides fresh +water, there are one or two sulphur springs. + + 8. There are two hundred and twenty-six Avenues in the Cave; +forty-seven Domes; eight Cataracts, and twenty-three Pits. + + 9. The temperature of the Cave is 59° Fahrenheit, and remains so, +uniformly, winter and Summer. + +10. No sound, not even the loudest peal of thunder, is heard one +quarter of a mile in the Cave. + + * * * * * + +The author of "Rambles in the Mammoth Cave," has written a scientific +account of the Cave, embracing its Geology, Mineralogy, etc., which we +could not, in time, insert in this publication. + + + + +TABLE OF DISTANCES. + + +FROM LOUISVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Medley's 10 miles. +Mouth Salt River 10 +Trueman's 8 +Haycraft's 7 +Elizabethtown 9 +Nolin 9 +Lucas 11 +Munfordsville 10 +Mammoth Cave 14-1/2 + ------ + 88-1/2 miles. + + +FROM LEXINGTON TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Harrodsburgh 20 miles. +Perryville 10 +Frosts 12 +Young 4 +Lebanon 7 +New Market 12 +Barbee 6 +Somerville 3 +Carters 5 +Moss 5 +Mitchell 12 +Curls 7 +Greens 10 +Dickeys 8 +Mammoth Cave 9 + --- + 130 miles. + + +FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via + +Dickeys 18 miles. + + +FROM NASHVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Gees 9 miles. +Tyree Springs 13 +Buntons 12 +Franklin 10 +Bowling Green 20 +Pattersons 12 +Dripping Springs 3 +Mammoth Cave 8 + -- + 87 miles. + + +FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +New Haven 15 miles. +McDougals 10 +McAchran (Cobb's stand) 12 +Bear Wallow 20 +Dickeys (Prewett's Knob) 7 +Mammoth Cave 9 + -- + 73 miles. + + +FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE, +via. MUNFORDSVILLE. + +McAchran (Cobb's stand) 37 miles. +Munfordsville 12 +Mammoth Cave 14-1/2 + ------ + 63-1/2 miles. + + +FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via. + +Bells 18 miles. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Mammoth Cave--Where Situated--Green River--Improved Navigation--Range +of Highlands--Beautiful Woodlands--Hotel--Romantic Dell--Mouth of the +Cave--Coldness of the Air--Lamps Lighted--Bones of a Giant--Violence +of the Wind--Lamps Extinguished--Temperature of the Cave--Lamps +Relighted--First Hopper--Grand Vestibule--Glowing Description--Audubon +Avenue--Little Bat Room--Pit two hundred and eighty feet deep--Main +Cave--Kentucky Cliffs--The Church Second Hopper--Extent of the +Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. + +CHAPTER II. + +Gothic Gallery--Gothic Avenue--Good Road--Mummies--Interesting +Account of Them--Gothic Avenue, once called Haunted Chamber--Why so +named--Adventure of a Miner in former days. + +CHAPTER III. + +Stalagmite Pillars--The Bell--Vulcan's Furnace--Register Rooms-- +Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel--Devil's Arm-Chair--Elephant's +Head--Lover's Leap--Napoleon's Dome--Salts Cave--Annetti's Dome. + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Ball-Room--Willie's Spring--Wandering Willie--Ox-Stalls--Giant's +Coffin--Acute-Angle or Great Bend--Range of Cabins--Curative Properties +of the Cave Air long known. + +CHAPTER V. + +Star Chamber--Salts Room--Indian Houses--Cross Rooms--Black Chambers--A +Dinner Party--Humble Chute--Solitary Cave--Fairy Grotto--Chief City or +Temple--Lee's Description--Return to the Hotel. + +CHAPTER VI. + +Arrival of a large Party--Second Visit--Lamps Extinguished--Laughable +Confusion--Wooden Bowl--Deserted Chambers--Richardson's +Spring--Side-Saddle Fit--The Labyrinth--Louisa's Dome--Gorin's +Dome--Bottomless Fit--Separation of our Party. + +CHAPTER VII. + +Pensico Avenue--Cheat Crossings--Pine Apple Bush--Angelica's Grotto +Winding Way--Fat Friend in Trouble--Relief Hall--Bacon Chamber +Bandits Hall. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Mammoth Dome--First Discoverers--Little Dave--Tale of a Lamp--Return. + +CHAPTER IX. + +Third Visit--River Hall--Dead Sea--River Styx--Lethe--Echo +River--Purgatory--Eyeless Fish--Supposed Level of the Rivers--Sources +and Outlet Unknown. + +CHAPTER X. + +Pass of El Ghor--Silliman's Avenue--Wellington's Gallery--Sulphur +Spring--Mary's Vineyard--Holy Sepulchre--Commencement of Cleveland +Avenue--By whom Discovered--Beautiful Formations--Snow-ball +Room--Rocky Mountains--Croghan's Hall--Serena's Arbor--Dining +Table--Dinner Party and Toast--Hoax of the Guide--Homeward +Bound Passage--Conclusion. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Mammoth Cave--Where Situated--Green River--Improved Navigation--Range of +Highlands--Beautiful Woodlands--Hotel--Romantic Dell--Mouth of the +Cave--Coldness of the Air--Lamps Lighted--Bones of a Giant--Violence +of the Wind--Lamps Extinguished--Temperature of the Cave--Lamps +Lighted--First Hoppers--Grand Vestibule--Glowing Description--Audubon +Avenue--Little Bat Room--Pit Two-Hundred and Eighty Feet Deep--Main +Cave--Kentucky Cliffs--The Church--Second Hoppers--Extent of the +Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. + + +The Mammoth Cave is situated in the County of Edmondson and State of +Kentucky, equidistant from the cities of Louisville and Nashville, +(about ninety miles from each,) and immediately upon the nearest road +between those two places. Green River is within half a mile of the +Cave, and since the improvements in its navigation, by the +construction of locks and dams, steam-boats can, at all seasons, +ascend to Bowling Green, distant but twenty-two miles, and, for the +greater part of the year, to the Cave itself. + +In going to the Cave from Munfordsville, you will observe a lofty +range of barren highlands to the North, which approaches nearer and +nearer the Cave as you advance, until it reaches to within a mile of +it. This range of highlands or cliffs, composed of calcareous rock, +pursuing its rectilinear course, is seen the greater part of the way +as you proceed on towards Bowling Green; and, at last, looses itself +in the counties below. Under this extensive range of cliffs it is +conjectured that the great subterranean territory mainly extends +itself. + +For a distance of two miles from the Cave, as you approach it from the +South-East, the country is level. It was, until recently, a prairie, +on which, however, the oak, chestnut and hickory are now growing; and +having no underbrush, its smooth, verdant openings present, here and +there, no unapt resemblance to the parks of the English nobility. + +Emerging from these beautiful woodlands, you suddenly have a view of +the hotel and adjacent grounds, which is truly lovely and picturesque. +The hotel is a large edifice, two hundred feet long by forty-five +wide, with piazzas, sixteen feet wide, extending the whole length of +the building, both above and below, well furnished, and kept in a +style, by Mr. Miller, that cannot fail to please the most fastidious +epicure. + +The Cave is about two-hundred yards from the hotel, and you proceed to +it down a lovely and romantic dell, rendered umbrageous by a forest of +trees and grape vines; and passing by the ruins of saltpetre furnaces +and large mounds of ashes, you turn abruptly to the right and behold +the mouth of the great cavern and as suddenly feel the coldness of its +air. + +It is an appalling spectacle,--how dark, how dismal, how dreary. +Descending some thirty feet down rather rude steps of stone, you are +fairly under the arch of this "nether world"--before you, in looking +outwards, is seen a small stream of water falling from the face of the +crowning rock, with a wild faltering sound, upon the ruins below, and +disappearing in a deep pit,--behind you, all is gloom and darkness! + +Let us now follow the guide--who, placing on his back a canteen of +oil, lights the lamps, and giving one to each person, we commence our +subterranean journey; having determined to confine ourselves, for this +day, to an examination of _some_ of the avenues on this side of the +rivers, and to resume, on a future occasion, our visit to the fairy +scenes beyond. I emphasize the word _some_ of the avenues, because no +visitor has ever yet seen one in twenty; and, although I shall attempt +to describe only a few of them, and in so doing will endeavor to +represent things as I saw them, and as they impressed me, I am not the +less apprehensive that my descriptions will appear as unbounded +exaggerations, so wonderfully vast is the Cave, so singular its +formations, and so unique its characteristics. + +At the place where our lamps were lighted, are to be seen the wooden +pipes which conducted the water, as it fell from the ceiling, to the +vats or saltpetre hoppers; and near this spot too, are interred the +bones of a _giant_, of such vast size is the skeleton, at least of +such portions of it as remain. With regard to this giant, or more +properly skeleton, it may be well to state, that it was found by the +saltpetre workers far within the Cave years ago, and was buried by +their employer where it now lies, to quiet their superstitious fears, +not however before it was bereft of its head by some fearless +antiquary. + +Proceeding onward about one-hundred feet, we reached a door, set in a +rough stone wall, stretched across and completely blocking up the +Cave; which was no sooner opened, than our lamps were extinguished by +the violence of the wind rushing outwards. An accurate estimate of the +external temperature, may at any time, be made, by noting the force of +the wind as it blows inward or outward. When it is very warm without, +the wind blows outwards with violence; but when cold, it blows inwards +with proportionate force. The temperature of the Cave, (winter and +summer,) is invariably the same--59° Fahrenheit; and its atmosphere is +perfectly uniform, dry, and of most extraordinary salubrity. + +Our lamps being relighted, we soon reached a narrow passage faced on +the left side by a wall, built by the miners to confine the loose +stone thrown up in the course of their operations, when gradually +descending a short distance, we entered the great vestibule or +ante-chamber of the Cave. What do we now see? Midnight!--the +blackness of darkness!--Nothing! Where is the wall we were lately +elbowing out of the way? It has vanished!--It is lost! We are walled +in by darkness, and darkness canopies us above. Look again;--Swing +your torches aloft! Aye, now you can see it; far up, a hundred feet +above your head, a grey ceiling rolling dimly away like a cloud, and +heavy buttresses, bending under the weight, curling and toppling over +their base, begin to project their enormous masses from the shadowy +wall. How vast! How solemn! How awful! The little bells of the brain +are ringing in your ears; you hear nothing else--not even a sigh of +air--not even the echo of a drop of water falling from the roof. The +guide triumphs in your look of amazement and awe; he falls to work on +certain old wooden ruins, to you, yet invisible, and builds a brace or +two of fires, by the aid of which you begin to have a better +conception of the scene around you. You are in the vestibule or +ante-chamber, to which the spacious entrance of the Cave, and the +narrow passage that succeeds it, should be considered the mere +gate-way and covered approach. It is a basilica of an oval +figure--two-hundred feet in length by one-hundred and fifty wide, with +a roof which is as flat and level as if finished by the trowel of the +plasterer, of fifty or sixty or even more feet in height. Two +passages, each a hundred feet in width, open into it at its opposite +extremities, but at right angles to each other; and as they preserve a +straight course for five or six-hundred feet, with the same flat roof +common to each, the appearance to the eye, is that of a vast hall in +the shape of the letter L expanded at the angle, both branches being +five-hundred feet long by one-hundred wide. The passage to the right +hand is the "Great Bat Room;" (Audubon Avenue.) That in the front, the +beginning of the Grand Gallery, or the Main Cavern itself. The whole +of this prodigious space is covered by a single rock, in which the eye +can detect no break or interruption, save at its borders, where is a +broad, sweeping cornice, traced in horizontal panel-work, exceedingly +noble and regular; and not a single pier or pillar of any kind +contributes to support it. It needs no support. It is like the arched +and ponderous roof of the poet's mausoleum: + + "By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable." + +The floor is very irregularly broken, consisting of vast heaps of the +nitrous earth, and of the ruins of the hoppers or vats, composed of +heavy planking, in which the miners were accustomed to leach it. The +hall was, in fact, one of their chief factory rooms. Before their day, +it was a cemetery; and here they disinterred many a mouldering +skeleton, belonging it seems, to that gigantic eight or nine feet race +of men of past days, whose jaw-bones so many vivacious persons have +clapped over their own, like horse-collars, without laying by a single +one to convince the soul of scepticism. + +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave,--a hall which hundreds of +visitors have passed through without being conscious of its existence. +The path, leading into the Grand Gallery, hugs the wall on the left +hand; and is, besides, in a hollow, flanked on the right hand by lofty +mounds of earth, which the visitor, if he looks at them at all, which +he will scarcely do, at so early a period after entering, will readily +suppose to be the opposite walls. Those who enter the Great Bat Room, +(Audubon Avenue,) into which flying visitors are seldom conducted, +will indeed have some faint suspicion, for a moment, that they are +passing through infinite space; but the walls of the Cave being so +dark as to reflect not one single ray of light from the dim torches, +and a greater number of them being necessary to disperse the gloom +than are usually employed, they will still remain in ignorance of the +grandeur around them. + +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave, as described by the +ingenious author of "Calavar," "Peter Pilgrim," &c. + +From the vestibule we entered Audubon Avenue, which is more than a +mile long, fifty or sixty feet wide and as many high. The roof or +ceiling exhibits, as you walk along, the appearance of floating +clouds--and such is observable in many other parts of the Cave. Near +the termination of this avenue, a natural well, twenty-five feet deep, +and containing the purest water, has been recently discovered; it is +surrounded by stalagmite columns, extending from the floor to the +roof, upon the incrustations of which, when lights are suspended, the +reflection from the water below and the various objects above and +around, gives to the whole scene an appearance equally rare and +picturesque. This spot, however, being difficult of access, is but +seldom visited. + +The Little Bat Room Cave--a branch of Audubon Avenue,--is on the left +as you advance, and not more than three-hundred yards from the great +vestibule. It is but little more than a quarter of a mile in length, +and is remarkable for its pit of two-hundred and eighty feet in depth; +and as being the hibernal resort of bats. Tens of thousands of them +are seen hanging from the walls, in apparently a torpid state, during +the winter, but no sooner does the spring open, than they disappear. + +Returning from the Little Bat Room and Audubon Avenue, we pass again +through the vestibule, and enter the Main Cave or Grand Gallery. This +is a vast tunnel extending for miles, averaging throughout, fifty feet +in width by as many in height It is truly a noble subterranean avenue; +the largest of which man has any knowledge, and replete with interest, +from its varied characteristics and majestic grandeur. + +Proceeding down the main Cave about a quarter of a mile, we came to +the Kentucky Cliffs, so called from the fancied resemblance to the +cliffs on the Kentucky River, and descending gradually about twenty +feet entered the church, when our guide was discovered in the _pulpit_ +fifteen feet above us, having reached there by a gallery which leads +from the cliffs. The ceiling here is sixty three feet high, and the +church itself, including the recess, cannot be less than one hundred +feet in diameter. Eight or ten feet above and immediately behind the +pulpit, is the organ loft, which is sufficiently capacious for an. +organ and choir of the largest size. There would appear to be +something like design in all this;--here is a church large enough to +accomodate thousands, a solid projection of the wall of the Cave to +serve as a pulpit, and a few feet back a place for an organ and choir. +In this great temple of nature, religious service has been frequently +held, and it requires but a slight effort on the part of a speaker, to +make himself distinctly heard by the largest congregation. + +Sometimes the guides climb up the high and ragged sides, and suspend +lamps in the crevices and on the projections of the rock, thus +lighting up a scene of wild grandeur and sublimity. + +Concerts too have been held here, and the melody of song has been +heard, such as would delight the ear of a Catalini or a Malibran. + +Leaving the church you will observe, on ascending, a large embankment +of lixiviated earth thrown out by the miners more than thirty years +ago, the print of wagon wheels and the tracks of oxen, as distinctly +defined as though they were made but yesterday; and continuing on for +a short distance, you arrive at the Second Hoppers. Here are seen the +ruins of the old nitre works, leaching vats, pump frames and two lines +of wooden pipes; one to lead fresh water from the dripping spring to +the vats filled with the nitrous earth, and the other to convey the +lye drawn from the large reservoir, back to the furnace at the mouth +of the Cave. + +The quantity of nitrous earth contained in the Cave is "sufficient to +supply the whole population of the globe with saltpetre." + +"The dirt gives from three to five pounds of nitrate of lime to the +bushel, requiring a large proportion of fixed alkali to produce the +required crystalization, and when left in the Cave become +re-impregnated in three years. When saltpetre bore a high price, +immense quantities were manufactured at the Mammoth Cave, but the +return of peace brought the saltpetre from the East Indies in +competition with the American, and drove that of the produce of our +country entirely from the market. An idea may be formed of the extent +of the manufacture of saltpetre at this Cave, from the fact that the +contract for the supply of the fixed alkali alone for the Cave, for +the year 1814, was twenty thousand dollars." + +"The price of the article was so high, and the profits of the +manufacturer so great, as to set half the western world gadding after +nitre caves--the gold mines of the day. Cave hunting in fact became a +kind of mania, beginning with speculators, and ending with hair +brained young men, who dared for the love of adventure the risk which +others ran for profit." Every hole, remarked an old miner, the size of +a man's body, has been penetrated for miles around the Mammoth Cave, +but although we found "_petre earth_," we never could find a cave +worth having. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Gothic Gallery--Gothic Avenue--Good Road--Mummies--Interesting Account +of Them--Gothic Avenue once called Haunted Chamber--Why so Named-- +Adventure of a Miner in Former Days. + + +In looking from the ruins of the nitre works, to the left and some +thirty feet above, you will see a large cave, connected with which is +a narrow gallery sweeping across the Main Cave and losing itself in a +cave, which is seen above to your right This latter cave is the Gothic +Avenue, which no doubt was at one time connected with the cave +opposite and on the same level, forming a complete bridge over the +main avenue, but afterwards broken down and separated by some great +convulsion. + +The cave on the left, which is filled with sand, has been penetrated +but a short distance; still from its great size at its entrance, it is +more than probable, that, were all obstructions removed, it might be +found to extend for miles. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE GOTHIC AVENUE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +While examining the old saltpetre works, the guide left us without our +being aware of it, but casting our eyes around we perceived him +standing some forty feet above, on the projection of a huge rock, or +tower, which commands a view of the grand gallery to a great extent +both up and down. + +Leaving the Main Cave and ascending a flight of stairs twenty or +thirty feet, we entered the Gothic Avenue, so named from the Gothic +appearance of some of its compartments. This avenue is about forty +feet wide, fifteen feet high and two miles long. The ceiling looks in +many places as smooth and white as though it had been under the trowel +of the most skilful plasterer. A good road has been made throughout +this cave, and such is the temperature and purity of its atmosphere, +that every visitor must experience their salutary influences. + +In a recess on the left hand elevated a few feet above the floor and +about fifty feet from the head of the stairs leading up from the Main +Avenue, two mummies long since taken away, were to be seen in 1813. +They were in good preservation; one was a female with her extensive +wardrobe placed before her. The removal of those mummies from the +place in which they were found can be viewed as little less than +sacrilege. There they had been, perhaps for centuries, and there they +ought to have been left. What has become of them I know not. One of +them, it is said, was lost in the burning of the Cincinnati museum. +The wardrobe of the female was given to a Mr. Ward, of Massachusetts, +who I believe presented it to the British Museum. + +Two of the miners found a mummy in Audubon Avenue, in 1814. With a +view to conceal it for a time, they placed large stones over it, and +marked the walls about the spot so that they might find it at some +future period; this however, they were never able to effect. In 1840, +the present hotel keeper Mr. Miller, learning the above facts, went in +search of the place designated, taking with him very many lights, and +found the marks on the walls, and near to them the mummy. It was, +however, so much injured and broken to pieces by the heavy weights +which had been placed upon it, as to be of little interest or value. I +have no doubt, that if proper efforts were made, mummies and other +objects of curiosity might be found, which would tend to throw light +on the early history of the first inhabitants of this continent. + +Believing, that whatever may relate to these mummies cannot fail to +interest, I will extract from the recently published narrative of a +highly scientific gentleman of New York, himself one of the early +visitors to the Cave. + +"On my first visit to the Mammoth Cave in 1813, I saw a relic of +ancient times, which requires a minute description. This description +is from a memorandum made in the Cave at the time. + +"In the digging of saltpetre earth, in the short cave, a flat rock was +met with by the workmen, a little below the surface of the earth in +the Cave; this stone was raised, and was about four feet wide and as +many long; beneath it was a square excavation about three feet deep +and as many in length and width. In this small nether subterranean +chamber, sat in solemn silence one of the human species, a female with +her wardrobe and ornaments placed at her side. The body was in a state +of perfect preservation, and sitting erect The arms were folded up and +the hands were laid across the bosom; around the two wrists was wound +a small cord, designed probably, to keep them in the posture in which +they were first placed; around the body and next thereto, was wrapped +two deer-skins. These skins appear to have been dressed in some mode +different from what is now practised by any people, of whom I have any +knowledge. The hair of the skins was cut off very near the surface. +The skins were ornamented with the imprints of vines and leaves, which +were sketched with a substance perfectly white. Outside of these two +skins was a large square sheet, which was either wove or knit. This +fabric was the inner bark of a tree, which I judge from appearances to +be that of the linn tree. In its texture and appearance, it resembled +the South Sea Island cloth or matting; this sheet enveloped the whole +body and the head. The hair on the head was cut off within an eighth +of an inch of the skin, except near the neck, where it was an inch +long. The color of the hair was a dark red; the teeth were white and +perfect. I discovered no blemish upon the body, except a wound between +two ribs near the back-bone; one of the eyes had also been injured. +The finger and toe nails were perfect and quite long. The features +were regular. I measured the length of one of the bones of the arm +with a string, from the elbow to the wrist joint, and they equalled my +own in length, viz: ten and a half inches. From the examination of the +whole frame, I judged the figure to be that of a very tall female, say +five feet ten inches in height. The body, at the time it was first +discovered, weighed but fourteen pounds, and was perfectly dry; on +exposure to the atmosphere, it gained in weight by absorbing dampness +four pounds. Many persons have expressed surprise that a human body of +great size should weigh so little, as many human skeletons of nothing +but bone, exceed this weight. Recently some experiments have been made +in Paris, which have demonstrated the fact of the human body being +reduced to ten pounds, by being exposed to a heated atmosphere for a +long period of time. The color of the skin was dark, not black; the +flesh was hard and dry upon the bones. At the side of the body lay a +pair of moccasins, a knapsack and an indispensable or reticule. I will +describe these in the order in which I have named them. The moccasins +were made of wove or knit bark, like the wrapper I have described. +Around the top there was a border to add strength and perhaps as an +ornament. These were of middling size, denoting feet of small size. +The shape of the moccasins differs but little from the deer-skin +moccasins worn by the Northern Indians. The knapsack was of wove or +knit bark, with a deep, strong border around the top, and was about +the size of knapsacks used by soldiers. The workmanship of it was +neat, and such as would do credit as a fabric, to a manufacturer of +the present day. The reticule was also made of knit or wove bark. The +shape was much like a horseman's valise, opening its whole length on +the top. On the side of the opening and a few inches from it, were two +rows of hoops, one row on each side. Two cords were fastened to one +end of the reticule at the top, which passed through the loop on one +side and then on the other side, the whole length, by which it was +laced up and secured. The edges of the top of the reticule were +strengthened with deep fancy borders. The articles contained in the +knapsack and reticule were quite numerous, and are as follows: one +head cap, made of wove or knit bark, without any border, and of the +shape of the plainest night cap; seven head-dresses made of the quills +of large birds, and put together somewhat in the same way that feather +fans are made, except that the pipes of the quills are not drawn to a +point, but are spread out in straight lines with the top. This was +done by perforating the pipe of the quill in two places and running +two cords through these holes, and then winding around the quills and +the cord, fine thread, to fasten each quill in the place designed for +it. These cords extended some length beyond the quills on each side, +so that on placing the feathers erect on the head, the cords could be +tied together at the back of the head. This would enable the wearer to +present a beautiful display of feathers standing erect and extending a +distance above the head, and entirely surrounding it. These were most +splendid head dresses, and would be a magnificent ornament to the head +of a female at the present day,--several hundred strings of beads; +these consisted of very hard brown seed smaller than hemp seed, in +each of which a small hole had been made, and through this hole a +small three corded thread, similar in appearance and texture to seine +twine; these were tied up in bunches, as a merchant ties up coral +beads when he exposes them for sale. The red hoofs of fawns, on a +string supposed to be worn around the neck as a necklace. These hoofs +were about twenty in number, and may have been emblematic of +Innocence; the claw of an eagle, with a hole made in it, through which +a cord was passed, so that it could be worn pendent from the neck; the +jaw of a bear designed to be worn in the same manner as the eagle's +claw, and supplied with a cord to suspend it around the neck; two +rattlesnake-skins, one of these had fourteen rattles upon it, these +were neatly folded up; some vegetable colors done up in leaves; a +small bunch of deer sinews, resembling cat-gut in appearance; several +bunches of thread and twine, two and three threaded, some of which +were nearly white; seven needles, some of these were of horn and some +of bone, they were smooth and appeared to have been much used. These +needles had each a knob or whirl on the top, and at the other end were +brought to a point like a large sail needle. They had no eyelets to +receive a thread. The top of one of these needles was handsomely +scalloped; a hand-piece made of deer-skin, with a hole through it for +the thumb, and designed probably to protect the hand in the use of the +needle, the same as thimbles are now used; two whistles about eight +inches long made of cane, with a joint about one third the length; +over the joint is an opening extending to each side of the tube of the +whistle, these openings were about three-fourths of an inch long and a +quarter of an inch wide, and had each a flat reed placed in the +opening. These whistles were tied together with a cord wound around +them. + +"I have been thus minute in describing the mute witness from the days +of other times, and the articles which were deposited within her +earthen house. Of the race of people to whom she belonged when living, +we know nothing; and as to conjecture, the reader who gathers from +these pages this account, can judge of the matter as well as those who +saw the remnant of mortality in the subterranean chambers in which she +was entombed. The cause of the preservation of her body, dress and +ornaments is no mystery. The dry atmosphere of the Cave, with the +nitrate of lime, with which the earth that covers the bottom of these +nether palaces is so highly impregnated, preserves animal flesh, and +it will neither putrify nor decompose when confined to its unchanging +action. Heat and moisture are both absent from the Cave, and it is +these two agents, acting together, which produce both animal and +vegetable decomposition and putrefaction. + +"In the ornaments, etc., of this mute witness of ages gone, we have a +record of olden time, from which, in the absence of a written record, +we may draw some conclusions. In the various articles which +constituted her ornaments, there were no metallic substances. In the +make of her dress, there is no evidence of the use of any other +machinery than the bone and horn needles. The beads are of a +substance, of the use of which for such purposes, we have no account +among people of whom we have any written record. She had no warlike +arms. By what process the hair upon her head was cut short, or by what +process the deer-skins were shorn, we have no means of conjecture. +These articles afford us the same means of judging of the nation to +which she belonged, and of their advances in the arts, that future +generations will have in the exhumation of a tenant of one of our +modern tombs, with the funeral shroud, etc. in a state of like +preservation; with this difference, that with the present inhabitants +of this section of the globe, but few articles of ornament are +deposited with the body. The features of this ancient member of the +human family much resembled those of a tall, handsome American woman. +The forehead was high, and the head well formed. + + "Ye mouldering relics of a race departed, + Your names have perished; not a trace remains." + +The Gothic Avenue was once called the Haunted Chamber, and owed its +name to an adventure that befell one of the miners in former days, +which is thus related by the author of "Calavar." + +In the Lower Branch is a room called the Salts Room, which produces +considerable quantities of the sulphate of magnesia, or of soda, we +forget which--a mineral that the proprietor of the Cave did not fail +to turn to account. The miner in question was a new and raw hand--of +course neither very well acquainted with the Cave itself, nor with the +approved modes of averting or repairing accidents, to which, from the +nature of their occupation, the miners were greatly exposed. Having +been sent, one day, in charge of an older workman, to the Salts Room +to dig a few sacks of the salt, and finding that the path to this +sequestered nook was perfectly plain; and that, from the Haunted +Chambers being a single, continuous passage without branches, it was +impossible to wander from it, our hero disdained on his second visit, +to seek or accept assistance, and trudged off to his work alone. The +circumstance being common enough he was speedily forgotten by his +brother miners; and it was not until several hours after, when they +all left off their toil for the more agreeable duty of eating their +dinner, that his absence was remarked, and his heroical resolution to +make his way alone to the Salts Room remembered. As it was apparent, +from the time he had been gone, that some accident must have happened +to him, half a dozen men, most of them negroes, stripped half naked, +their usual working costume, were sent to hunt him up, a task supposed +to be of no great difficulty, unless he had fallen into a pit. In the +meanwhile, the poor miner, it seems, had succeeded in reaching the +Salts Room, filling his sack, and retracing his steps half way back to +the Grand Gallery; when finding the distance greater than he thought +it ought to be, the conceit entered his unlucky brain that he _might_ +perhaps be going wrong. No sooner had the suspicion struck him, than +he fell into a violent terror, dropped his sack, ran backwards, then +returned, then ran back again--each time more frightened and +bewildered than before; until at last he ended his adventure by +tumbling over a stone and extinguishing his lamp. Thus left in the +dark, not knowing where to turn, frightened out of his wits besides, +he fell to remembering his sins--always remembered by those who are +lost in the Cave--and praying with all his might for succor. But hours +passed away, and assistance came not; the poor fellow's frenzy +increased; he felt himself a doomed man; he thought his terrible +situation was a judgment imposed on him for his wickedness; nay, he +even believed, at last, that he was no longer an inhabitant of the +earth--that he had been translated, even in the body, to the place of +torment--in other words, that he was in hell itself, the prey of the +devils, who would presently be let loose upon him. It was at this +moment the miners in search of him made their appearance; they lighted +upon his sack, lying where he had thrown it, and set up a great shout, +which was the first intimation he had of their approach. He started +up, and seeing them in the distance, the half naked negroes in +advance, all swinging their torches aloft, he, not doubting they were +those identical devils whose appearance he had been expecting, took to +his heels, yelling lustily for mercy; nor did he stop, notwithstanding +the calls of his amazed friends, until he had fallen a second time +over the rocks, where he lay on his face, roaring for pity, until, by +dint of much pulling and shaking, he was convinced that he was still +in the world and the Mammoth Cave. Such is the story of the Haunted +Chambers, the name having been given to commemorate the incident. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Stalagmite Pillars--The Bell--Vulcan's Furnace--Register Rooms-- +Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel--Devil's Arm-Chair--Elephant's +Head--Lover's Leap--Napoleon's Dome--Salts Cave--Annetti's Dome. + + +Resuming our explorations in this most interesting avenue, we soon +came in sight of stalagmite pillars, reaching from the floor to the +ceiling, once perhaps white and translucent, but now black and +begrimed with smoke. At this point we were startled by the hollow +tread of our feet, caused by the proximity of another large avenue +underneath, which the guide assured us he had often visited. In this +neighborhood too, there are a number of Stalactites, one of which was +called the Bell, which on being struck, sounded like the deep bell of +a cathedral; but it now no longer tolls, having been broken in twain +by a visiter from Philadelphia some years ago. Further on our way, we +passed Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnace, where there is a heap, not +unlike cinders in appearance, and some dark colored water, in which I +suppose the great forger used to slake his iron and perhaps his bolts. +Next in order and not very distant are the new and old Register Rooms. +Here on the ceiling which is as smooth and white as if it had been +finished off by the plasterer, thousands of names have been traced by +the smoke of a candle--names which can create no pleasing associations +or recollections; names unknown to fame, and which might excite +disgust, when read for the first time on the ceiling which they have +disfigured. + +[Illustration: STALAGMITE HALL OR GOTHIC CHAPEL. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + + +Soon after leaving the old Register Room, we were halted by our guide, +who took from us all the lamps excepting one. Having made certain +arrangements, he cried aloud, "Come on!" which we did, and in a few +moments entered an apartment of surprising grandeur and magnificence. +This apartment or hall is elliptical in shape and eighty feet long by +fifty wide. Stalagmite columns, of vast size nearly block up the two +ends; and two rows of pillars of smaller dimensions, reaching from +floor to ceiling and equidistant from the wall on either side, extend +its entire length. Against the pillars, and in many places from the +ceiling, our lamps were hanging, and, lighting up the whole space, +exhibited to our enraptured sight a scene surpassingly grand, and well +calculated to inspire feelings of solemnity and awe. This is the +Stalagmite Hall, or as some call it, the Gothic Chapel, which no one +can see under such circumstances as did our party, without being +forcibly reminded of the old, very old cathedrals of Europe. +Continuing our walk we came to the Devil's Arm-Chair. This is a large +Stalagmite column, in the centre of which is formed a capacious seat. +Like most other visiters we seated ourselves in the chair of his +Satanic Majesty, and drank sulphur water dipped up from a small basin +of rock, near the foot of the chair. Further on we passed a number of +Stalactites and Stalagmites, Napoleon's Breast-Work, (behind which we +found ashes and burnt cane,) the Elephant's Head, the Curtain, and +arrived at last at the Lover's Leap. The Lover's Leap is a large +pointed rock projecting over a dark and gloomy hollow, thirty or more +feet deep. Our guide told us that the young ladies often asked their +beaux to take the Lover's Leap, but that he never knew any to "love +hard enough" to attempt it. We descended into the hollow, immediately +below the Lover's Leap, and entered to the left and at right-angle +with our previous course, a passage or chasm in the rock, three feet +wide and fifty feet high, which conducted us to the lower branch of +the Gothic Avenue. At the entrance of this lower branch is an +immensely large flat rock called Gatewood's Dining Table, to the right +of which is a cave, which we penetrated, as far as the Cooling Tub--a +beautiful basin of water six feet wide and three deep--into which a +small stream of the purest water pours itself from the ceiling and +afterwards finds its way into the Flint Pit at no great distance. +Returning, we wound around Gatewood's Dining Table, which nearly +blocks up the way, and continued our walk along the lower branch more +than half a mile, passing Napoleon's Dome, the Cinder Banks, the +Crystal Pool, the Salts Cave, etc., etc. Descending a few feet and +leaving the cave which continues onwards, we entered, on our right, a +place of great seclusion and grandeur, called Annetti's Dome. Through +a crevice in the right wall of the dome is a waterfall. The water +issues in a stream a foot in diameter, from a high cave in the side of +the dome--falls upon the solid bottom, and passes off by a small +channel into the Cistern, which is directly on the pathway of the +cave. The Cistern is a large pit, which is usually kept nearly full of +water. + +Near the end of this branch, (the lower branch) there is a crevice in +the ceiling over the last spring, through which the sound of water may +be heard falling in a cave or open space above. + +Highly gratified with what we had now seen in the Gothic Avenue, we +concluded to pursue it no further, but to retrace our steps to the +Main Cave, regretting however, that we had not visited the Salts Cave, +(a branch of the Gothic Avenue,) on being told, when too late, that it +would have amply compensated us for our trouble, being rich in fine +specimens of Epsom or Glauber salts. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Ball-Room--Willie's Spring--Wandering Willie--Ox-Stalls--Giant's +Coffin--Acute-Angle or Great Bend--Range of Cabins--Curative Properties +of the Cave Air long known. + + +We are now again in the Main Cave or Grand Gallery, which continues to +increase in interest as we advance, eliciting from our party frequent +and loud exclamations of admiration and wonder. Not many steps from +the stairs leading down from the Gothic Avenue into the Main Cave, is +the Ball-Room, so called from its singular adaptedness to such a +purpose; for there is an orchestra, fifteen or eighteen feet high, +large enough to accommodate a hundred or more musicians, with a +gallery extending back to the level of the high embankment near the +Gothic Avenue; besides which, the avenue here is lofty, wide, straight +and perfectly level for several hundred feet. At the trifling expense +of a plank floor, seats and lamps, a ball-room might be had, if not +more splendid, at all events more grand and magnificent than any other +on earth. The effect of music here would be truly inspiring; but the +awful solemnity of the place may, in the opinion of many, prevent its +being used as a temple of Terpsichore. Extremes, we are told, often +meet. The same objection has been urged against the Cave's being used +for religious services. "No clergyman," remarked a distinguished +divine, "be he ever so eloquent could concentrate the attention of his +congregation in such a place. The God of nature speaks too loud here +for _man to be heard_." + +Leaving these points to be settled as they may, we will proceed +onwards; the road now is broad and fine, and in many places dusty. +Next in order is Willie's Spring, a beautifully fluted niche in the +left hand wall, caused by the continual attrition of water trickling +down into a basin below. This spring derives its name from that of a +young gentleman, the son of a highly respectable clergyman of +Cincinnati, who, in the spirit of romance, assumed the name of +Wandering Willie, and taking with him his violin, marched on foot to +the Cave. Wishing no better place in which to pass the night, he +selected this spot, requesting the guide to call for him in the +morning. This he did and found him fast asleep upon his bed of earth, +with his violin beside him--ever since it has been called Willie's +Spring. Just beyond the spring and near the left wall, is the place +where the oxen were fed during the time of the miners; and strewn +around are a great many corn-cobs, to all appearance, and in fact, +perfectly sound, although they have lain there for more than thirty +years. In this neighborhood is a niche of great size in the wall on +the left, and reaching from the roof to the bottom of a pit more than +thirty feet deep, down the sides of which, water of the purest kind is +continually dripping, and is afterwards conducted to a large trough, +from which the invalids obtain their supply of water, during their +sojourn in the Cave. Near the bottom, this pit or well expands into a +large room, out of which, there is no opening. It is probable that +Richardson's Spring in the Deserted Chambers is supplied from this +well. Passing the Well Cave, Rocky Cave, etc., etc., we arrived at the +Giant's Coffin, a huge rock on the right, thus named from its singular +resemblance in shape to a coffin; its locality, apart from its great +size, renders it particularly conspicuous, as all must pass around it, +in leaving the Main Cave, to visit the rivers and the thousand wonders +beyond. At this point commence those incrustations, which, portraying +every imaginable figure on the ceiling, afford full scope to the +fanciful to picture what they will, whether of "birds, or beasts, or +creeping things." About a hundred yards beyond the Coffin, the Cave +makes a majestic curve, and sweeping round the Great Bend or +Acute-Angle, resumes its general course. Here the guide ignited a +Bengal light. This vast amphitheatre became illuminated, and a scene +of enchantment was exposed to our view. Poets may conceive, but no +language can describe, the splendor and sublimity of the scene. The +rapturous exclamations of our party might have been heard from afar, +both up and down this place of wonders. Opposite to the Great Bend, is +the entrance of the Sick Room Cave, so called from the fact of the +sudden sickness of a visiter a few years ago, supposed to have been +caused by his smoking, with others, cigars in one of its most remote +and confined nooks. Immediately beyond the Great Bend, a row of +cabins, built for consumptive patients, commences. All of these are +framed buildings, with the exception of two, which are of stone. They +stand in line, from thirty to one hundred feet apart, exhibiting a +picturesque, yet at the same time, a gloomy and mournful appearance. +They are well furnished, and without question, would with good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air and uniform temperature, cure the +pulmonary consumption. The invalids in the Cave ought to be cured; but +I doubt whether the Cave air or any thing else can cure confirmed +Phthisis. A knowledge of the curative properties of the Cave air, is +not, as is generally supposed, of recent date. It has been long known. +A physician of great respectability, formerly a member of Congress +from the district adjoining the Cave, was so firmly convinced of the +medical properties of its air, as to express more than twenty years +ago, as his opinion, that the State of Kentucky ought to purchase it, +with a view to establish a hospital in one of its avenues. Again the +author of "Calavar," himself a distinguished professor of medicine, +makes the following remarks in relation to the Cave air, as far back +as 1832, the date of his visit: + +"It is always temperate. Its purity, judging from its effects on the +lungs, and from other circumstances, is remarkable, though in what its +purity consists, I know not. But, be its composition what it may, it +is certain its effects upon the spirits and bodily powers of visiters, +are extremely exhilarating; and that it is not less salubrious than +enlivening. The nitre diggers were a famously healthy set of men; it +was a common and humane practice to employ laborers of enfeebled +constitutions, who were soon restored to health and strength, though +kept at constant labour; and more joyous, merry fellows were never +seen. The oxen, of which several were kept day and night in the Cave, +hauling the nitrous earth, were after a month or two of toil, in as +fine condition for the shambles, as if fattened in the stall. The +ordinary visiter, though rambling a dozen hours or more, over paths of +the roughest and most difficult kind, is seldom conscious of fatigue, +until he returns to the upper air; and then it seems to him, at least +in the summer season, that he has exchanged the atmosphere of paradise +for that of a charnel warmed by steam--all without is so heavy, so +dank, so dead, so mephitic. Awe and even apprehension, if that has +been felt, soon yield to the influence of the delicious air of the +Cave; and after a time a certain jocund feeling is found mingled with +the deepest impressions of sublimity, which there are so many objects +to awaken. I recommend all broken hearted lovers and dyspeptic dandies +to carry their complaints to the Mammoth Cave, where they will +undoubtedly find themselves "translated" into very buxom and happy +persons before they are aware of it." + +[Illustration: STAR CHAMBER. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Star Chamber--Salts Room--Indian Houses--Cross Rooms--Black Chambers-- +A Dinner Party--Humble Chute--Solitary Care--Fairy Grotto--Chief City +or Temple--Lee's Description--Return to the Hotel. + + +The Star Chamber next attracted our attention. It presents the most +perfect optical illusion imaginable; in looking up to the ceiling, +which is here very high, you seem to see the very firmament itself, +studded with stars; and afar off, a comet with its long, bright tail. +Not far from this Star Chamber, may be seen, in a cavity in the wall +on the right, and about twenty feet above the floor, an oak pole about +ten feet long and six inches in diameter, with two round sticks of +half the thickness and three feet long, tied on to it transversely, at +about four feet apart. By means of a ladder we ascended to the cavity, +and found the pole to be firmly fixed--one end resting on the bottom +of the cavity, and the other reaching across and forced into a crevice +about three feet above. We supposed that this was a ladder once used +by the former inhabitants of the Cave, in getting the salts which are +incrusted on the walls in many places. Doct. Locke, of the Medical +College of Ohio, is, however, of the opinion, that on it was placed a +dead body,--similar contrivances being used by some Indian tribes on +which to place their dead. Although thousands have passed the spot, +still this was never seen until the fall of 1841. Ages have doubtless +rolled by since this was placed here, and yet it is perfectly sound; +even the bark which confines the transverse pieces shows no marks of +decay. + +We passed through some Side Cuts, as they are called. These are caves +opening on the sides of the avenues; and after running for some +distance, entering them again. Some of them exceed half a mile in +length; but most generally they are short. In many of them, "quartz, +calcedony, red ochre, gypsum, and salts are found." The walking, in +this part of the avenue, being rough, we progressed but slowly, until +we reached the Salts Room; here we found the walls and ceiling covered +with salts hanging in crystals. The least agitation of the air causing +flakes of the crystals to fall like snow. In the Salts Room are the +Indian houses, under the rocks--small spaces or rooms completely +covered--some of which contain ashes and cane partly burnt. The +_Cross Rooms_, which we next come to, is a grand section of this +avenue; the ceiling has an unbroken span of one hundred and seventy +feet, without a column to support it! The mouths of two caves are seen +from this point, neither of which we visited, and much to our loss, as +will appear from the following extract from the "Notes on the Mammoth +Cave, by E.F. Lee, Esq., Civil Engineer," in relation to one of +them--the Black Chambers: + +"At the ruins in the Black Chambers, there are a great many large +blocks composed of different strata of rocks, cemented together, +resembling the walls, pedestals, cornices, etc., of some old castle, +scattered over the bottom of the Cave. The avenue here is so wide, as +to make it quite a task to walk from one side to the other. On the +right hand, beyond the ruins, you enter the right branch, on the same +level--the ceiling of which is regularly arched. Through the Big +Chimneys you ascend into an upper room, about the size of the Main +Cave, the bottom of which is higher than the ceiling of the one below. +Proceeding on we soon heard the low murmurings of a water-fall,--the +sound of which becomes louder and louder as we advanced, until we +reached the Cataract. In the roof are perforations as large as a +hogshead, on the right hand side, from which water is ever falling, on +ordinary occasions in not very large quantities; but after heavy +rains--in torrents; and with a horrible roar that shakes the walls and +resounds afar through the Cave. It is at such times that these +cascades are worthy the name of cataracts, which they bear. The water +falling into a great funnel-shaped pit, immediately vanishes." + +Here we concluded to dine, and at quite a fashionable hour--4, P.M. +The guide arranged the plates, knives and forks, wine-glasses, etc., +on a huge table of rock, and announced,--"Dinner is ready!" We filled +our plates with the excellent viands prepared at the Cave House, and +seating ourselves on the rocks or nitre earth, partook of our repast +with the gusto of gourmands, and quaffing, ever and anon, wines which +would have done credit to the Astor or Tremont House. "There may be," +remarked our corpulent friend B., "a great deal of romance in this way +of eating--with your plate on your lap, and seated on a rock or a lump +of nitre earth--but for my part I would rather dispense with the +poetry of the thing and eat a good dinner, whether above or below +ground, from off a bona-fide table, and seated in a good substantial +chair. The proprietor ought to have at all the watering places, (and +they are numerous,) tables, chairs, and the necessary table furniture, +that visitors might partake of their collations in some degree of +comfort." The guide who, by the way, is a very intelligent and +facetious fellow, was much amused at the suggestion of our friend, and +remarked that "the owner of the Cave, Doct. Croghan, lived near +Louisville, and that the only way to get such '_fixings_' at the +watering places, was to write to him on the subject." "Then," said B., +"for the sake of those who may follow after us, I will take it upon +myself to write." + +From this point you have a view of the Main Avenue on our left, +pursuing its general course, and exhibiting the same solemn grandeur +as from the commencement,--and directly before us the way to the +Humble Chute and the Cataract. The Humble Chute is the entrance to the +Solitary Chambers; before entering which, we must crawl on our hands +and knees some fifteen or twenty feet under a low arch. It is +appropriately named; as is the Solitary Chambers which we have now +entered. You feel here,--to use an expression of one of our +party,--"out of the world." Without dwelling on the intervening +objects--although they are numerous and not without interest,--we will +enter at once the Fairy Grotto of the Solitary Cave. It is in truth a +fairy grotto; a countless number of Stalactites are seen extending, at +irregular distances, from the roof to the floor, of various sizes and +of the most fantastic shapes--some quite straight, some crooked, some +large and hollow--forming irregularly fluted columns; and some solid +near the ceiling, and divided lower down, into a great number of small +branches like the roots of trees; exhibiting the appearance of a coral +grove. Hanging our lamps to the incrustations on the columns, the +grove of Stalactites became faintly lighted up, disclosing a scene of +extraordinary wildness and beauty. "This is nothing to what you'll see +on the other side of the rivers," cries our guide, smiling at our +enthusiastic admiration. With all its present beauty, this grotto is +far from being what it was, before it was despoiled and robbed some +eight or nine years ago, by a set of vandals, who, through sheer +wantonness, broke many of the stalactites, leaving them strewn on the +floor--a disgustful memorial of their vulgar propensities and +barbarian-like conduct. + +Returning from the Fairy Grotto, we entered the Main Cave at the +Cataract, and continued our walk to the Chief City or Temple, which is +thus described by Lee, in his "Notes on the Mammoth Cave:" + +"The Temple is an immense vault covering an area of two acres, and +covered by a single dome of solid rock, one hundred and twenty feet +high. It excels in size the Cave of Staffa; and rivals the celebrated +vault in the Grotto of Antiparos, which is said to be the largest in +the world. In passing through from one end to the other, the dome +appears to follow like the sky in passing from place to place on the +earth. In the middle of the dome there is a large mound of rocks +rising on one side nearly to the top, very steep and forming what is +called the _Mountain_. When first I ascended this mound from the cave +below, I was struck with a feeling of awe more deep and intense, than +any thing that I had ever before experienced. I could only observe the +narrow circle which was illuminated immediately around me; above and +beyond was apparently an unlimited space, in which the ear could catch +not the slightest sound, nor the eye find an object to rest upon. It +was filled with silence and darkness; and yet I knew that I was +beneath the earth, and that this space, however large it might be, was +actually bounded by solid walls. My curiosity was rather excited than +gratified. In order that I might see the whole in one connected view, +I built fires in many places with the pieces of cane which I found +scattered among the rocks. Then taking my stand on the Mountain, a +scene was presented of surprising magnificence. On the opposite side +the strata of gray limestone, breaking up by steps from the bottom, +could scarcely be discerned in the distance by the glimmering light. +Above was the lofty dome, closed at the top by a smooth oval slab, +beautifully defined in the outline, from which the walls sloped away +on the right and left into thick darkness. Every one has heard of the +dome of the Mosque of St. Sophia, of St. Peter's and St. Paul's; they +are never spoken of but in terms of admiration, as the chief works of +architecture, and among the noblest and most stupendous examples of +what man can do when aided by science; and yet when compared with the +dome of this Temple, they sink into comparative insignificance. Such +is the surpassing grandeur of Nature's works." + +[Illustration: CHIEF CITY OR TEMPLE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +To us, the Temple seemed to merit the glowing description above given, +but what would Lee think, on being told, that since the discovery of +the rivers and the world of beauties beyond them, not one person in +fifty visits the Temple or the Fairy Grotto; they are now looked upon +as tame and uninteresting. The hour being now late, we concluded to +proceed no further, but to return to the hotel, where we arrived at +11, P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Arrival of a large Party--Second Visit--Lamps Extinguished--Laughable +Confusion--Wooden Bowl--Deserted Chambers--Richardson's Side-Saddle +Pit--The Labyrinth--Louisa's Dome--Gorin's Dome--Bottomless Pit-- +Separation of our Party. + + +On being summoned to breakfast the next morning, we ascertained that a +large party of ladies and gentlemen had arrived during our absence, +who, like ourselves, were prepared to enter the Cave. They, however, +were for hurrying over the rivers, to the distant points beyond--we, +for examining leisurely the avenues on this side. At 8 o'clock, both +parties accompanied by their respective guides and making a very +formidable array, set out from the hotel, happy in the anticipation of +the "sights to be seen." It was amusing to hear the remarks, and to +witness the horror of some of the party on first beholding the mouth +of the Cave. Oh! it is so frightful!--It is so cold!--I _cannot_ go +in! Notwithstanding all this, curiosity prevailed, and down we +went--arranged our lamps, which being extinguished in passing through +the doorway by the strong current of air rushing outwards, there arose +such a clamor, such laughter, such screaming, such crying out for the +guides, as though all Bedlam had broke loose,--the guides exerting +themselves to quiet apprehensions, and the visiters of yesterday +knowing that there was neither danger nor just cause of alarm, doing +their utmost to counteract their efforts, by well feigned exclamations +of terror. At length the lamps were re-lighted and order being +restored, onward we went. The Vestibule and Church were each in turn +illuminated, to the enthusiastic delight of all--even those of the +party, who were but now so terrified, were loud in their expressions +of admiration and wonder. Arrived at the Giant's Coffin, we leave the +Main Cave to enter regions very dissimilar to those we have seen. A +narrow passage behind the Coffin leads to a circular room, one hundred +feet in diameter, with a low roof, called the Wooden Bowl, in allusion +to its figure, or as some say, from a wooden bowl having been found +here by some old miner. This Bowl is the vestibule of the Deserted +Chambers. On the right, are the Steeps of Time, (why so called we are +left to conjecture,) down which, descending about twenty feet, and +almost perpendicularly for the first ten, we enter the Deserted +Chambers, which in their course present features extremely wild, +terrific and multiform. For two hundred yards the ceiling as you +advance is rough and broken, but further on, it is waving, white and +smooth as if worn by water. At Richardson's Spring, the imprint of +moccasins and of children's feet, of some by-gone age, were recently +seen. There are more pits in the Deserted Chambers than in any other +portion of the Cave; and among the most noted are the Covered Pit, the +Side-Saddle Pit and the Bottomless Pit. Indeed the whole range of +these chambers, is so interrupted by pits, and throughout is so +irregular and serpentine and so bewildering from the number of its +branches, that the visiter, doubtful of his footing, and uncertain as +to his course, is soon made sensible of the prudence of the +regulation, which enjoins him, "not to leave the guide." "The Covered +Pit is in a little branch to the left; this pit is twelve or fifteen +feet in diameter, covered with a thin rock, around which a narrow +crevice extends, leaving only a small support on one side. There is a +large rock resting on the centre of the cover. The sound of a +waterfall may be heard from the pit but cannot be seen." The +Side-Saddle Pit is about twenty feet long and eight feet wide, with a +margin about three feet high, and extending lengthwise ten feet, +against which one may safely lean, and view the interior of the pit +and dome. After a short walk from this place, we came to a ladder on +our right, which conducted us down about fifteen feet into a narrow +pass, not more than five feet wide; this pass is the Labyrinth, one +end of which leads to the Bottomless Pit, entering it about fifty feet +down, and the other after various windings, now up, now down, over a +bridge, and up and down ladders, conducts you to one of the chief +glories of the Cave,--Gorin's Dome; which, strange to tell, was not +discovered until a few years ago. Immediately behind the ladder, there +is a narrow opening in the rock, extending up very nearly to the cave +above, which leads about twenty feet back to Louisa's Dome, a pretty +little place of not more than twelve feet in diameter, but of twice +that height. This dome is directly under the centre of the cave we had +just been traversing, and when lighted up, persons within it can be +plainly seen from above, through a crevice in the rock. Arrived at +Gorin's Dome, we were forcibly struck by the seeming appearance of +_design_, in the arrangement of the several parts, for the special +accommodation of visiters--even with reference to their number. The +Labyrinth, which we followed up, brought us at its termination, to a +window or hole, about four feet square, three feet above the floor, +opening into the interior of the dome, about midway between the bottom +and top; the wall of rock being at this spot, not more than eighteen +inches thick; and continuing around, and on the outside of the dome, +along a gallery of a few feet in width, for twenty or more paces, we +arrived at another opening of much larger size, eligibly disposed, and +commanding, like the first, a view of very nearly the whole interior +space. Whilst we are arranging ourselves, the guide steals away, +passes down, down, one knows not how, and is presently seen by the dim +light of his lamp, fifty feet below, standing near the wall on the +inside of the dome. The dome is of solid rock, with sides apparently +fluted and polished, and perhaps two hundred feet high. Immediately in +front and about thirty feet from the window, a huge rock seems +suspended from above and arranged in folds like a curtain. Here we are +then, the guide fifty feet below us. Some of the party thrusting their +heads and, in their anxiety to see, their bodies through the window +into the vast and gloomy dome of two hundred feet in height. The +window is not large enough to afford a view to all at once, they crowd +one on the top of the other; the more cautious, and those who do not +like to be squeezed, stand back; but still holding fast to the +garments of their friends for fear they might in the ecstasy of their +feelings, leap into the frightful abyss into which they are looking. +Suddenly the guide ignites a _Bengal light_. The vast dome is radiant +with light. Above, as far as the eye can reach, are seen the shining +sides of the fluted walls; below, the yawning gulf is rendered the +more terrific, by the pallid light exposing to view its vast depth, +the whole displaying a scene of sublimity and splendor, such as words +have not power to describe. Returning, we ascended the ladder near +Louisa's Dome, and continued on, having the Labyrinth on our right +side until it terminates in the Bottomless Pit. This pit terminates +also the range of the Deserted Chambers, and was considered the Ultima +Thule of all explorers, until within the last few years, when Mr. +Stephenson of Georgetown, Ky. and the intrepid guide, Stephen, +conceived the idea of reaching the opposite side by throwing a ladder +across the frightful chasm. This they accomplished, and on this +ladder, extending across a chasm of twenty feet wide and near two +hundred deep, did these daring explorers cross to the opposite side, +and thus open the way to all those splendid discoveries, which have +added so much to the value and renown of the Mammoth Cave. The +Bottomless Pit is somewhat in the shape of a horse-shoe, having a +tongue of land twenty seven feet long, running out into the middle of +it. From the end of this point of land, a substantial bridge has been +thrown across to the cave on the opposite side. + +[Illustration: BOTTOMLESS PIT. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +While standing on the bridge, the guide lets down a lighted paper into +the deep abyss; it descends twisting and turning, lower and lower, and +is soon lost in total darkness, leaving us to conjecture, as to what +may be below. Crossing the bridge to the opposite cave, we find +ourselves in the midst of rocks of the most gigantic size lying along +the edge of the pit and on our left hand. Above the pit is a dome of +great size, but which, from its position, few have seen. Proceeding +along a narrow passage for some distance, we arrived at the point from +which diverge two noted routes--the Winding Way and Pensico Avenue. +Here we called a short halt; then wishing our newly formed +acquintances [Transcriber's note: sic] a safe voyage over the "deep +waters," we parted; they taking the left hand to the Winding Way and +the rivers, and we the right to Pensico Avenue. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Pensico Avenue--Great Crossings--Pine Apple Bush--Angelica's Grotto-- +Winding Way--Fat Friend in Trouble--Relief Hall--Bacon Chamber-- +Bandit's Hall. + + +Pensico Avenue averages about fifty feet in width, with a height of +about thirty feet; and is said to be two miles long. It unites in an +eminent degree the truly beautiful with the sublime, and is highly +interesting throughout its entire extent. For a quarter of a mile from +the entrance, the roof is beautifully arched, about twelve feet high +and sixty wide, and formerly was encrusted with rosettes and other +formations, nearly all of which have been taken away or demolished, +leaving this section of the Cave quite denuded. The walking here is +excellent; a dozen persons might run abreast for a quarter of a mile +to Bunyan's Way, a branch of the avenue, leading on to the river. At +this point the avenue changes its features of beauty and regularity, +for those of wild grandeur and sublimity, which it preserves to the +end. The way, no longer smooth and level, is frequently interrupted +and turned aside by huge rocks, which lie tumbled around, in all +imaginable disorder. The roof now becomes very lofty and imposingly +magnificent; its long, pointed or lancet arches, forcibly reminding +you of the rich and gorgeous ceilings of the old Gothic Cathedrals, at +the same time solemnly impressing you with the conviction that this is +a "building not made with hands." No one, not dead to all the more +refined sensibilities of our nature, but must exclaim, in beholding +the sublime scenes which here present themselves, this is not the work +of man! No one can be here without being reminded of the all pervading +presence of the great "Father of all." + + "What, but God, pervades, adjusts and agitates the whole!" + +Not far from the point at which the avenue assumes the rugged +features, which now characterize it, we separated from our guide, he +continuing his straight-forward course, and we descending gradually a +few feet and entering a tunnel of fifteen feet wide on our left, the +ceiling twelve or fourteen feet high, perfectly arched and beautifully +covered with white incrustations, very soon reached the Great +Crossings. Here the guide jumped down some six or eight feet from the +avenue which we had left, into the tunnel where we were standing, and +crossing it, climbed up into the avenue, which he pursued for a short +distance or until it united with the tunnel, where he again joined us. +In separating from, then crossing, and again uniting with the avenue, +it describes with it something like the figure 8. The name, Great +Crossings, is not unapt. It was however, not given, as our intelligent +guide veritably assured us, in honor of the Great Crossings where the +man lives who killed Tecumseh, but because two great caves cross here; +and moreover said he, "the valiant Colonel ought to change the name of +his place, as no two places in a State should bear the same name, and +this being the _great_ place ought to have the preference." + +Not very far from this point, we ascended a hill on our left, and +walking a short distance over our shoe-tops in dry nitrous earth, in a +direction somewhat at a right angle with the avenue below, we arrived +at the Pine Apple Bush, a large column, composed of a white, soft, +crumbling material, with bifurcations extending from the floor to the +ceiling. At a short distance, either to the right or left, you have a +fine view of the avenue some twenty feet below, both up and down. Why +this crumbling stalactite is called the Pine Apple Bush, I cannot +divine. It stands however in a charming, secluded spot, inviting to +repose; and we luxuriated in inhaling the all-inspiring air, while +reclining on the clean, soft and dry salt petre earth. + +All lovers of romantic scenery ought to visit this avenue, and all +dyspeptic hypochondriacs and love-sick despondents should do likewise, +for there is something wonderfully exhilarating in the air of Pensico. +Our friend B. remarked while rolling on the salt petre earth at the +Pine Apple Bush, that he felt "especially happy," and whether from +sympathy, air or what not, we all partook of the same feeling. The +guide seeing the position of our fat friend, and hearing his remark, +said, laughing most immoderately, "these sort of feelings would come +over one, now and then in the Cave, but wait till you get in the +Winding Way and see how you feel then." + +Having descended into the avenue we had left, we passed a number of +stalactites and stalagmites, bearing a remarkable resemblance to +coral, and a hundred or more paces beyond, arrived at a recess on the +left, lined with innumerable crystals of dog-tooth spar, shining most +brilliantly, called Angelica's Grotto. One would think it almost +sacrilege to deface a spot like this; yet, did a Clergyman (the back +of the guide being turned,) deliberately demolish a number of +beautiful crystals to inscribe the initials of his name. + +Returning to the head of Pensico Avenue, we turned to our right, and +entered the narrow pass which leads to the river, pursuing which, for +a few hundred yards, descending all the while, at one or two places +down a ladder or stone steps, we came to a path cut through a high and +broad embankment of sand, which very soon conducted us to the much +talked of and anxiously looked for Winding Way. The Winding Way, has, +in the opinion of many, been channeled in the rock by the gradual +attrition of water. If this be so, and appearances seem to support +such belief, at what early age of the world did the work commence? Was +it not when "the earth was without form and void," thousands of years +perhaps, before the date of the Mosaic account of the Creation? The +Winding Way is one hundred and five feet long, eighteen inches wide, +and from three to seven feet deep, widening out above, sufficiently to +admit the free use of one's arms. It is throughout tortuous, a perfect +_zig-zag_, the terror of the Falstaffs and the ladies of "fat, fair +and forty," who have an instinctive dread of the trials to come, and +are well aware of the merriment that their efforts to _force a +passage_ will excite among their companions of less length of girdle. +Into this winding way, we entered in Indian file, and turning our +right side, then our left, twisting this way, then that, had nearly +made good the passage, when our _fat friend_, who was puffing and +blowing behind us like a high pressure engine, cried out, "Halt, ahead +there! I am stuck as tight as a wedge in a log!" Halt we did, when the +guide, looking at our friend, who was in truth "wedg'd in the rocky +way and sticking fast," cried out, "I told you, when you said at the +Pine Apple Bush, that you felt _especially happy_, to wait till you +got to the Winding Way, to see how you would feel then!" The +imprisoned gentleman soon burst his bonds, not, however, without +damage to his indispensables; and at length forcing his way into +Relief Hall, he cried out, in the joy of his heart, while stretching +himself and wiping the perspiration from his jolly, rubicund face, +"never was a name more appropriate given to any place--Relief. I feel +already the _expansive faculty_ of the atmosphere, I can now breathe +again." + +Relief Hall, which you enter from the Winding Way, at a right-angle, +is very wide and lofty but not long; turning to the right, we reached +its termination at River Hall, a distance of perhaps, one hundred +yards. Here two routes present themselves; the one to the left +conducts to the Dead Sea and the Rivers, and that to the right, to the +Bacon Chamber, the Bandit's Hall, the Mammoth Dome and an infinity of +other caves, domes, etc. We will speak of the Bacon Chamber; but +before doing so, let us take our lunch. The air or exercise, or +probably both, acted as powerful appetizers, and we soon gave proof +that we needed not Stoughton's bitters to provoke an appetite. Having +discussed a few glasses of excellent Hock, we left the Bacon Chamber, +which is a pretty fair representation of a low ceiling, thickly hung +with canvassed hams and shoulders; and proceeded to the Bandit's Hall, +up a steep ascent of twenty or thirty feet, rendered very difficult, +by the huge rocks which obstructed the way and over which we were +forced to clamber. The name is indicative of the spot. It is a vast +and lofty chamber, the floor covered with a mountainous heap of rocks +rising amphitheatrically almost to the ceiling, and so disposed as to +furnish at different elevations, galleries or platforms, reaching +immediately around the chamber itself or leading off into some of its +hidden recesses. The guide is presently seen standing at a fearful +height above, and suddenly a Bengal light, blazes up, "when the rugged +roof, the frowning cliffs and the whole chaos of rocks are refulgent +in the brilliant glare." The sublimity of the scene is beyond the +powers of the imagination. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Mammoth Dome--First Discoverers--Little Dome--Tale of a Lamp--Return. + + +From the Bandit's Hall, diverge two caves; one of which, the left, +leads you to a multitude of domes; and the right, to one which, _par +excellence_, is called the Mammoth Dome. Taking the right, we arrived, +after a rugged walk of nearly a mile, to a platform, which commands an +indistinct view of this dome of domes. It was discovered by a German +gentleman and the guide Stephen about two years ago, but was not +explored until some months after, when it was visited by a party of +four or five, accompanied by two guides, and well prepared with ropes, +&c. From the platform, the guides were let down about twenty feet, by +means of a rope, and upon reaching the ground below, they found +themselves on the side of a hill, which, descending about fifty feet, +brought them immediately under the Great Dome, from the summit of +which, there is a water-fall. This dome is near four hundred feet +high, and is justly considered one of the most sublime and wonderful +spectacles of this most wonderful of caverns. From the bottom of the +dome they ascended the hill to the place to which they had been +lowered from the platform, and continuing thence up a very steep hill, +more than one hundred feet, they reached its summit. Arrived at the +summit, a scene of awful grandeur and magnificence is presented to the +view. Looking down the declivity, you see far below to the left, the +visiters whom you have left behind, standing on the platform or +termination of the avenue along which they had come; and lower down +still, the bottom of the Great Dome itself. Above, two hundred and +eighty feet, is the ceiling, lost in the obscurity of space and +distance. The height of the ceiling was determined by E.F. Lee, civil +engineer. This fact in regard to the elevation of the ceiling and the +locality of the Great Hall, was subsequently ascertained, by finding +on the summit of the hill, (a spot never before trodden by man,) an +iron lamp!! The astonishment of the guides, as well as of the whole +party, on beholding the lamp, can be easily imagined; and to this day +they would have been ignorant of its history, but for the accidental +circumstance of an old man being at the Cave Hotel, who, thirty years +ago, was engaged as a miner in the saltpetre establishment of Wilkins +& Gratz. He, on being shown the lamp, said at once, that it had been +found under the crevice pit (a fact that surprised all,); that during +the time Wilkins & Gratz were engaged in the manufacture of saltpetre, +a Mr. Gatewood informed Wilkins, that in all probability, the richest +nitre earth was under the crevice pit. The depth of this pit being +then unknown, Wilkins, to ascertain it, got a rope of 45 feet long, +and fastening this identical lamp to the end of it, lowered it into +the pit, in the doing of which, the string caught on fire, and down +fell the lamp. Wilkins made an offer of two dollars to any one of the +miners who would descend the pit and bring up the lamp. His offer was +accepted by a man, who, in consequence of his diminutive stature, was +nicknamed Little Dave; and the rope being made fast about his waist, +he, torch in hand, was lowered to the full extent of the forty-five +feet. Being then drawn up, the poor fellow was found to be so +excessively alarmed, that he could scarcely articulate; but having +recovered from his fright, and again with the full power of utterance, +he declared that no money could tempt him to try again for the lamp; +and in excuse for such a determination, he related the most marvellous +story of what he had seen--far exceeding the wonderful things which +the unexampled Don Quixote de la Mancha declared he had seen in the +deep cave of Montesinos. Dave was, in fact, suspended at the height of +two hundred and forty feet above the level below. Such is the history +of the _lamp_, as told by the old miner, Holton, the correctness of +which was very soon verified; for guides having been sent to the place +where the lamp was found, and persons at the same time stationed at +the mouth of the crevice pit, their proximity was at once made +manifest by the very audible sound of each other's voices, and by the +fact that sticks thrown into the pit fell at the feet of the guides +below, and were brought out by them. The distance from the mouth of +the Cave to this pit, falls short of half a mile; yet to reach the +grand apartment immediately under it, requires a circuit to be made of +at least three miles. The illumination of that portion of the Great +Dome on the left, and of the hall on the top of the hill to the right, +as seen from the platform, was unquestionably one of the most +impressive spectacles we had witnessed; but to be seen to advantage, +another position ought to be taken by the spectator, and the dome with +its towering height, and the hall on the summit of the hill, with its +gigantic stalagmite columns, and ceiling two hundred feet high, +illuminated by the simultaneous ignition of a number of Bengal lights, +judiciously arranged. Such was the enthusiastic admiration of some +foreigners on witnessing an illumination of the Great Dome and Hall, +that they declared, it alone would compensate for a voyage across the +Atlantic. With the partial illumination of the Great Dome, we closed +our explorations on this side of the rivers, and retracing our steps, +reached the hotel about sun-set. At mid-night, the party which +separated from us at the entrance of Pensico Avenue, returned from the +points beyond the Echo river. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Third Visit--River Hall--Dead Sea--River Styx--Lethe--Echo River-- +Purgatory--Eyeless Fish--Supposed Boil of the Rivers--Sources and +Outlet Unknown. + + +Early the next morning, having made all the necessary preparations for +the grand tour, which we were the more anxious to take from the +glowing accounts of the party recently returned, we entered the cave +immediately after an early breakfast, and proceeded rapidly on to +River Hall. It was evident from the appearance of the flood here, that +it had been recently overflown. + +[Illustration: RIVER SCENE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +"The cave, or the River Hall," remarks a fair and distinguished +authoress, whose description of the river scenery is so graphic, that +I cannot do better than transcribe it throughout: "The River Hall +descends like the slope of a mountain; the ceiling stretches +away--away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at midnight." +Going on, and gradually ascending and keeping close to the right hand +wall, you observe on your left "a steep precipice, over which you can +look down by the aid of blazing missiles, upon a broad black sheet of +water, eighty feet below, called the Dead Sea. This is an awfully +impressive place; the sights and sounds of which, do not easily pass +from memory. He who has seen it, will have it vividly brought before +him, by Alfieri's description of Filippo, 'only a transient word or +act gives us a short and dubious glimmer, that reveals to us the +abysses of his being--dark, lurid and terrific, as the throat of the +infernal pool.' Descending from the eminence, by a ladder of about +twenty feet, we find ourselves among piles of gigantic rocks, and one +of the most picturesque sights in the world, is to see a file of men +and women passing along those wild and scraggy paths, moving +slowly--slowly, that their lamps may have time to illuminate their +sky-like ceiling and gigantic walls--disappearing behind high +cliffs--sinking into ravines--their lights shining upwards through +fissures in the rocks--then suddenly emerging from some abrupt angle, +standing in the bright gleam of their lamps, relieved by the towering +black masses around them. He, who could paint the infinite variety of +creation, can alone give an adequate idea of this marvellous region. +As you pass along, you hear the roar of invisible waterfalls; and at +the foot of the slope, the river Styx lies before you, deep and black, +overarched with rock. The first glimpse of it brings to mind, the +descent of Ulysses into hell, + + "Where the dark rock o'erhangs the infernal lake, + And mingling streams eternal murmurs make." + +Across (or rather down) these unearthly waters, the guide can convey +but four passengers at once. The lamps are fastened to the prow; the +images of which, are reflected in the dismal pool. If you are +impatient of delay, or eager for new adventures, you can leave your +companions lingering about the shore, and cross the Styx by a +dangerous bridge of precipices overhead. In order to do this, you must +ascend a steep cliff, and enter a cave above, 300 yards long, from an +egress of which, you find yourself on the bank of the river, eighty +feet above its surface, commanding a view of those in the boat, and +those waiting on the shore. Seen from this height, the lamps in the +canoe glare like fiery eye-balls; and the passengers, sitting there so +hushed and motionless, look like shadows. The scene is so strangely +funereal and spectral, that it seems as if the Greeks must have +witnessed it, before they imagined Charon conveying ghosts to the dim +regions of Pluto. Your companions thus seen, do indeed-- + + "Skim along the dusky glades, + Thin airy souls, and visionary shades." + +If you turn your eyes from the canoe to the parties of men and women +whom you left waiting on the shore, you will see them by the gleam of +their lamps, scattered in picturesque groups, looming out in bold +relief from the dense darkness around them. + +Having passed the Styx, (much the smallest of the rivers,) you walk +over a pile of large rocks, and are on the banks of Lethe; and looking +back, you will see a line of men and women descending the high hill +from the cave, which runs _over_ the river Styx. Here are two boats, +and the parties, which have come by the two routes, _down_ the Styx or +_over_ it, uniting, descend the Lethe about a quarter of a mile, the +ceiling for the entire distance being very high--certainly not less +than fifty feet. On landing, you enter a level and lofty hall, called +the Great Walk, which stretches to the banks of the Echo, a distance +of three or four hundred yards. The Echo is truly a river: it is wide +and deep enough, at all times, to float the largest steamer. At the +point of embarkation, the arch is very low, not more than three feet, +in an ordinary stage of water, being left for a boat to pass through. +Passengers, of course, are obliged to double up, and lie upon each +others shoulders, in a most uncomfortable way, but their suffering is +of short duration; in two boat lengths, they emerge to where the vault +of the cave is lofty and wide. The boat in which we embarked was +sufficiently large to carry twelve persons, and our voyage down the +river was one of deep, indeed of most intense interest. The novelty, +the grandeur, the magnificence of every thing around elicited +unbounded admiration and wonder. All sense of danger, (had any been +experienced before,) was lost in the solemn, quiet sublimity of the +scene. The rippling of the water caused by the motion of our boat is +heard afar off, beating under the low arches and in the cavities of +the rocks. The report of a pistol is as that of the heaviest +artillery, and long and afar does the echo resound, like the muttering +of distant thunder. The voice of song was raised on this dark, deep +water, and the sound was as that of the most powerful choir. A fall +band of music on this river of echoes would indeed be overpowering. +The aquatic excursion was more to our taste than any thing we had +seen, and never can the impression it made be obliterated from our +memories. + +The Echo is three quarters of a mile long. A rise of the water of +merely a few feet connects the three rivers. After long and heavy +rains, these rivers sometimes rise to a perpendicular height of more +than fifty feet; and then they, as well as the cataracts, exhibit a +most terrific appearance. The low arch at the entrance of the Echo, +can not be passed when there is a rise of water of even two feet. Once +or twice parties have been caught on the further side by a sudden +rise, and for a time their alarm was great, not knowing that there was +an upper cave through which they could pass, that would lead them +around the arch to the Great Walk. This upper cave, or passage, is +called Purgatory, and is, for a distance of forty feet, so low, that +persons have to crawl on their faces, or, as the guides say, _snake +it_. We were pleased to learn that this passage would soon be +sufficiently enlarged to enable persons to walk through erect. This +accomplished, an excursion to Cleveland's Avenue may be made almost +entirely by land, at the same time that all apprehensions of being +caught beyond Echo will be removed. It is in these rivers, that the +extraordinary white eyeless fish are caught--we secured two of them. +There is not the slightest indication of an organ similar to an eye, +to be discovered. They have been dissected by skillful anatomists, who +declare that they are not only without eyes, but also develope other +anomalies in their organization, singularly interesting to the +naturalist. "The rivers of Mammoth Cave were never crossed till 1840. +Great efforts have been made to discover whence they come and whither +they go, yet they still remain as much a mystery as ever--without +beginning or end; like eternity." + + "Darkly thou glidest onward, + Thou deep and hidden wave! + The laughing sunshine hath not look'd + Into thy secret cave. + + Thy current makes no music-- + A hollow sound we hear; + A muffled voice of mystery, + And know that thou art near. + + No brighter line of verdure + Follows thy lonely way + No fairy moss, or lily's cup, + Is freshened by thy play." + +According to the barometrical measurement of Professor Locke, the +rivers of the Cave are nearly on a level with Green River; but the +report of Mr. Lee, civil engineer, is widely different. He says, "The +bottom of the Little Bat Room Pit is one hundred and twenty feet +_below_ the bed of Green River. The Bottomless Pit is also deeper than +the bed of Green River, and so far as a surveyor's level can be relied +on, the same may be said of the Cavern Pit and some others." The +rivers of the Cave were unknown at the time of Mr. Lee's visit in +1835, but they are unquestionably _lower_ than the bottom of the pits, +and receive the water which flows from them. According to the +statement of Lee, the bed of these rivers is lower than the bed of +Green River at its junction with the Ohio, taking for granted that the +report of the State engineers as to the extent of fall between a point +above the Cave and the Ohio, be correct, of which there is no doubt. +"It becomes, then," continues Mr. Lee, in reference to the waters of +the Cave, "an object of interesting inquiry to determine in what way +it is disposed of. If it empties into Green River, the Ohio, or the +ocean, it must run a great distance under ground, with a very small +descent." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Pass of El Ghor--Silliman's Avenue--Wellington's Gallery--Sulphur +Spring--Mary's Vineyard--Holy Sepulchre--Commencement of Cleveland +Avenue--By whom Discovered--Beautiful Formations--Snow-ball Room-- +Rocky Mountains--Croghan's Hall--Serena's Arbor--Dining Table-- +Dinner Party and Toast--Hoax of the Guide--Homeward Bound Passage-- +Conclusion. + + +Having now left the Echo, we have a walk of four miles to Cleveland's +Avenue. The intervening points are of great interest; but it would +occupy too much time to describe them. We will therefore hurry on +through the pass of El Ghor, Silliman's Avenue, and Wellington's +Gallery, to the foot of the ladder which leads up to the Elysium of +Mammoth cave. And here, for the benefit of the weary and thirsty, and +of all others whom it may interest, coming after us, be it known, that +Carneal's Spring is close at hand, and equally near, a sulphur spring, +the water of which, equals in quality and quantity that of the +far-famed White Sulphur Spring, of Virginia. At the head of the +ladder, you find yourself surrounded by overhanging stalactites, in +the form of rich clusters of grapes, hard as flint, and round and +polished, as if done by a sculptor's hand. This is called Mary's +Vineyard--the commencement of Cleveland's Avenue, the crowning wonder +and glory of this subterranean world. Proceeding to the right about, a +hundred feet from this spot, over a rough and rather difficult way, +you reach the base of the height or hill, on which, stands the Holy +Sepulchre. This interesting spot is reached at some hazard, as the +ascent, which is very steep, and more than twenty feet high, affords +no secure footing, owing to the loose and shingly character of the +surface, until the height is gained. Having achieved this, you stand +immediately at the beautiful door-way of the Chapel, or anteroom of +the Sepulchre. This Chapel, which is, perhaps, twelve feet square, +with a low ceiling, and decorated in the most gorgeous manner, with +well-arranged draperies of stalactite of every imaginable shape, leads +you to the room of the Holy Sepulchre adjoining, which is without +ornament or decoration of any kind; exhibiting nothing but dark and +bare walls--like a charnel house. In the centre of this room, which +stands a few feet below the Chapel, is, to all appearance, a grave, +hewn out of the living rock. This is the Holy Sepulchre. A Roman +Catholic priest discovered it about three years ago, and with fervent +enthusiasm exclaimed, "The Holy Sepulchre!" a name which it has since +borne. Returning from the Holy Sepulchre, we commence our wanderings +through Cleveland's Avenue--an avenue three miles long, seventy feet +wide, and twelve or fifteen feet high--an avenue more rich and +gorgeous than any ever revealed to man--an avenue abounding in +formations such as are no where else to be seen, and which the most +stupid observer could not behold without feelings of wonder and +admiration. Some of the formations in the avenue, have been +denominated by Professor Locke, oulophilites, or curled leafed stone; +and in remarking upon them, he says, "They are unlike any thing yet +discovered; equally beautiful for the cabinet of the amateur, and +interesting to the geological philosopher." And I, although a wanderer +myself in various climes, and somewhat of a mineralogist withal, have +never seen or heard of such. Apprehensive that I might, in attempting +to describe much that I have seen, color too highly, I will, in lieu +thereof, offer the remarks of an intelligent clergyman, extracted from +the New York Christian Observer, of a recent date: "The most +imaginative poet never conceived or painted a palace of such exquisite +beauty and loveliness, as Cleveland's Cabinet, into which you now +pass. Were the wealth of princes bestowed on the most skilful +lapidaries, with the view of rivaling the splendors of this single +chamber, the attempt would be vain. How then can I hope to give you a +conception of it? You must see it; and you will then feel that all +attempt at description, is futile." The Cabinet was discovered by Mr. +Patten, of Louisville, and Mr. Craig, of Philadelphia, accompanied by +the guide Stephen, and extends in nearly a direct line about one and a +half miles, (the guides say two miles.) It is a perfect arch, of fifty +feet span, and of an average height of ten feet in the centre--just +high enough to be viewed with ease in all its parts. It is incrusted +from end to end with the most beautiful formations, in every variety +of form. The base of the whole, is carbonate (sulphate) of lime, in +part of dazzling whiteness, and perfectly smooth, and in other places +crystallized so as to glitter like diamonds in the light. Growing from +this, in endlessly diversified forms, is a substance resembling +selenite, translucent and imperfectly laminated. It is most probably +sulphate of lime, (a gypsum,) combined with sulphate of magnesia. Some +of the crystals bear a striking resemblance to branches of celery, and +all about the same length; while others, a foot or more in length, +have the color and appearance of _vanilla cream candy_; others are set +in sulphate of lime, in the form of a rose; and others still roll out +from the base, in forms resembling the ornaments on the capitol of a +Corinthian column. (You see how I am driven for analogies.) Some of +the incrustations are massive and splendid; others are as delicate as +the lily, or as fancy-work of shell or wax. Think of traversing an +arched way like this for a mile and a half, and all the wonders of the +tales of youth--"Arabian Nights," and all--seem tame, compared with +the living, growing reality. Yes, _growing_ reality; for the process +is going on before your eyes. Successive coats of these incrustations, +have been perfected and crowded off by others; so that hundreds of +tons of these gems lie at your feet, and are crushed as you pass, +while the work of restoring the ornaments for nature's _boudoir_, is +proceeding around you. Here and there, through the whole extent, you +will find openings in the sides, into which you may thrust the person, +and often stand erect in little grottoes, perfectly incrusted with a +delicate white substance, reflecting the light from a thousand +glittering points. All the way you might have heard us exclaiming, +"Wonderful, wonderful! O, Lord, how manifold are thy works!" With +general unity of form and appearance, there is considerable variety in +"the Cabinet." The "_Snow-ball Room_," for example, is a section of +the cave described above, some 200 feet in length, entirely different +from the adjacent parts; its appearance being aptly indicated by its +name. If a hundred rude school boys had but an hour before completed +their day's sport, by throwing a thousand snow-balls against the roof, +while an equal number were scattered about the floor, and all +petrified, it would have presented precisely such a scene as you +witness in this room of nature's frolics. So far as I know, these +"snow-balls" are a perfect anomaly among all the strange forms of +crystalization. It is the result, I presume, of an unusual combination +of the sulphates of lime and magnesia, with a carbonate of the former. +We found here and elsewhere in the Cabinet, fine specimens of the +sulphate of Magnesia, (or Epsom salts,) a foot or two long, and three +inches in thickness. + +Leaving the quiet and beautiful "Cabinet," you come suddenly upon the +"Rocky Mountains," furnishing a contrast so bold and striking, as +almost to startle you. Clambering up the rough side some thirty feet, +you pass close under the roof of the cavern you have left, and find +before you an immense transverse cave, 100 feet or more from the +ceiling to the floor, with a huge pile of rocks half filling the +hither side--they were probably dashed from the roof in the great +earthquake of 1811. Taking the left hand branch, you are soon brought +to "Croghan's Hall," which is nine miles from the mouth, and is the +farthest point explored in that direction. The "Hall" is 50 or 60 feet +in diameter, and perhaps, thirty-five feet high, of a semi-circular +form. Fronting you as you enter, are massive stalactites, ten or +fifteen feet in length, attached to the rock, like sheets of ice, and +of a brilliant color. The rock projects near the floor, and then +recedes with a regular and graceful curve, or swell, leaving a cavity +of several feet in width between it and the floor. At intervals, +around this swell, stalactites of various forms are suspended, and +behind the sheet of stalactites first described, are numerous +stalagmites, in fanciful forms. I brought one away that resembles the +horns of the deer, being nearly translucent. In the centre of this +hall, a very large stalactite hangs from the roof; and a corresponding +stalagmite rises from the floor, about three feet in height and a foot +in diameter, of an amber color, perfectly smooth and translucent, like +the other formations. On the right, is a deep pit, down which the +water dashes from a cascade that pours from the roof. Other avenues +could most likely be found by sounding the sides of the pit, if any +one had the courage to attempt the descent. We are far enough from +_terra supra_, and our dinner which we had left at the "Vineyard." We +hastened back to the Rocky Mountains, and took the branch which we +left at our right on emerging from the Cabinet. Pursuing the uneven +path for some distance, we reached "Serena's Arbor," which was +discovered but three months since, by our guide "Mat." The descent to +the Arbor seemed so perilous, from the position of the loose rocks +around, that several of the party would not venture. Those of us who +scrambled down regarded this as the crowning object of interest. The +"Arbor" is not more than twelve feet in diameter, and of about the +same height, of a circular form; but is, of itself, floor, sides, +roof, and ornaments, one perfect, seamless stalactite, of a beautiful +hue, and exquisite workmanship. Folds or blades of stalactitic matter +hang like drapery around the sides, reaching half way to the floor; +and opposite the door, a canopy of stone projects, elegantly +ornamented, as if it were the resting-place of a fairy bride. Every +thing seemed fresh and new; indeed, the invisible architect has not +quite finished this master-piece; for you can see the pure water, +trickling down its tiny channels and perfecting the delicate points of +some of the stalactites. Victoria, with all her splendor, has not in +Windsor Castle, so beautiful an apartment as "Serena's Arbor." + +Such is the description of Cleveland's Avenue, as given by this +clerical gentleman. It is perfectly graphic, and corresponds with all +the glowing accounts I have read of this famous place. Exquisitely +beautiful and rare as are the formations in this avenue, it will soon +be, I fear, like the Grotto of Pensico--shorn of its beauties. Many a +little Miss, to decorate her centre table or boudoir, and many a +thoughtless dandy to present a specimen to his lady fair, have broken +from the walls (regardless of the published rules prohibiting it,) +those lovely productions of the Almighty, which required ages to +perfect; thus destroying in a moment the work of centuries. These +beautiful and gorgeous formations were encrusted on the walls by the +hands of our Maker, and who so impious as to desecrate them--to tear +them from their place? there they are, all lovely and beautiful, and +there they ought to remain, _untouched_ by the hands of man, for the +admiration and wonder of all future ages. If the comparatively small +cave of Adelburg which belongs to the Emperor of Austria, be placed +for the preservation of its formations under the protecting care of +the government [Transcriber's note: sic] (as is the case,) what ought +not to be done to preserve the mineralogical treasures, in this great +Cave of America, and especially in Cleveland's Cabinet, which are +worth more than all the caves in Europe, indeed of the world, so far +as our knowledge of caverns extends. + +Returning from Serena's Arbor, we passed on our left the mouth of an +avenue more than three miles long, lofty and wide, and at its +termination there is a hall, which in the opinion of the guide is +larger than any other in the Cave. It is as yet without a name. +Equidistant from the commencement and the termination of Cleveland's +Avenue, is a huge rock, nearly circular, flat on the top and three +feet high. This is the "_dining table_." More than one hundred persons +could be seated around this table; on it the guide arranged our +dinner, and we luxuriated on "flesh and fowl" and "choice old sherry." +Never did a set of fellows enjoy dinner more than we did ours. Our +friend B. was perfectly at his ease and happy; and, in the exuberance +of his spirits, proposed the following toast: + + "Prosperity to the subterranean territory of Cimmeria; large + enough, if not populous enough, for admission into the Union as + an independent State." + +We emptied our glasses and gave nine hearty cheers in honor of the +sentiment. A proposition was made to adjourn, but B. was not inclined +to locomotion, and opposed it with great warmth, insisting that it was +too soon to move after such a dinner, and that a state of rest was +absolutely essential to healthy digestion. We had much argument on the +motion to adjourn; when our sagacious guide Stephen, with a meaning +look interposed, saying "we had as well be going, for the river might +take a rise and shut us up here." "What!" exclaimed B. in utter +consternation, and with a start, literally bouncing from his seat, +cried aloud "Let's be off!" at the same time suiting the action to the +word. In a second we were all in motion, and hurrying past beautiful +incrustations, through galleries long and tortuous, down one hill and +up another, (poor B. puffing and blowing, and all the while exclaiming +against the _terrible_ length and ruggedness of the way,) we at last +reached the Echo, which we found to our great relief had _not risen_. +It seems, the guide had used this stratagem for our own advantage, to +break off our banquet, lest it trenched too far upon the night. We +were too happy in having our fears relieved, to fall out with him. On +our homeward bound passage over the rivers, our admiration was rather +increased than diminished. The death-like stillness! the awful +silence! the wild grandeur and sublimity of the scene, tranquilizing +the feeling and disposing to pensive musings and quiet contemplation; +on a sudden a pistol is fired--a tremendous report ensues--its echoes +are heard reverberating from wall to wall, in caves far away, like the +low murmuring sound of distant thunder--the spell of silence and deep +reverie is broken--we become roused and animated, and the mighty +cavern resounds with our song. We believe every one will, under +similar circumstances, experience this sudden transition from pensive +musings to joyous hilarity. Leaving the rivers, we hastened onward to +the outlet to the upper world. Far ahead we perceive the first +_dawnings of day_, shining with a silvery pallid hue on the walls, and +increasing in brightness as we advance, until it bursts forth in all +the golden rays and glorious effulgence of the setting sun. This +_parting_ scene is lovely and interesting. We bid adieu to the "Great +Monarch of Caves." We here terminate our subterranean tour. Standing +on the grassy terrace above, we inhale the cool, pure air, and take a +last look at the "great Wonder of Wonders!" To all we would say "go +and see--explore the greatest of the Almighty's subterranean works." +No description can give you an idea of it--neither can inspection of +other caves; it is "the Monarch of Caves!" none that have ever been +measured can at all compare with it, in extent, in grandeur, in wild, +solemn, serene, unadorned majesty; it stands entirely alone.--"It has +no brother; it has no brother." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during +the Year 1844, by Alexander Clark Bullitt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + +***** This file should be named 16220-8.txt or 16220-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/2/16220/ + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during the Year 1844 + By a Visiter + +Author: Alexander Clark Bullitt + +Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16220] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + + + +<h1> +RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE,<br> +DURING THE YEAR 1844,<br> +BY A VISITER. +</h1> +<p> </p> +<h4><i>By</i></h4> +<h2>Alexander Clark Bullitt</h2> +<p> </p> +<p class="ctr"> +LOUISVILLE, KY.:<br> +MORTON & GRISWOLD.<br> +1845. +</p> + + + +<p class="ctr"> +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by<br> +MORTON & GRISWOLD,<br> +in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Kentucky. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +Printed by MORTON & GRISWOLD. +</p> +<hr class="long"> +<h3> +ERRATA. +</h3> + +<p class="errata"> +<a href="#11">Page 11th</a>, fifth line from the bottom; for <i>faltering</i>, read pattering. +</p> + +<p class="errata"> +<a href="#46">Page 46th</a>, eighth line from the top—"They are well furnished, and, +without question, <i>would with</i> good and comfortable accommodations, +pure air, and uniform temperature, cure the pulmonary consumption. +<i>The</i> invalids in the Cave ought to be cured, &c.," +</p> + +<p class="erratacenter"> + <i>read</i>, +</p> + +<p class="errata"> +They are well furnished, and, without question, <i>if</i> good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air, and uniform temperature, <i>could</i> +cure the pulmonary consumption, <i>the</i> invalids in the Cave ought to be +cured. +</p> + +<p class="errata"> +<a href="#101">Page 101</a>, last line: read, "It has no brother: it <i>is like</i> no brother." +</p> + +<p> </p> +<h3> +PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT. +</h3> + + +<p> +To meet the calls so frequently made upon as by intelligent visitors +to our City, for some work descriptive of the Mammoth Cave, we are, at +length, enabled to present the public a succinct, but instructive +narrative of a visit to this "Wonder of Wonders," from the pen of a +gentleman, who, without professing to have explored ALL that is +curious or beautiful or sublime in its vast recesses, has yet seen +every thing that has been seen by others, and has described enough to +quicken and enlighten the curiosity of those who have never visited +it. +</p> + +<p> +Aware of the embarrassment which most persons experience who design +visiting the Cave, owing to the absence of any printed itinerary of +the various routes leading to it, we have supplied, in the present +volume, this desideratum, from information received from reliable +persons residing on the different roads here enumerated. The road from +Louisville to the Cave, and thence to Nashville, is graded the entire +distance, and the greater part of it M'Adamized. From Louisville to +the mouth of Salt river, twenty miles, the country is level, with a +rich alluvial soil, probably at some former period the bed of a lake. +A few miles below the former place and extending to the latter, a +chain of elevated hills is seen to the South-East, affording beautiful +and picturesque situations for country seats, and strangely overlooked +by the rich and tasteful. The river is crossed by a ferry, and the +traveler is put down at a comfortable inn in the village of West +Point. Two miles from the mouth of Salt river, begins the ascent of +Muldrow's Hill. The road is excellent, and having elevated hills on +either side, is highly romantic to its summit, five miles. From the +top of this hill to Elizabethtown, the country is well settled, though +the improvements are generally indifferent—the soil thin, but well +adapted to small-grain, and oak the prevailing growth. Elizabethtown, +twenty-five miles from the mouth of Salt river, is quite a pretty and +flourishing village, built chiefly of brick, with several churches and +three large inns. From this place to Nolin creek, the distance is ten +miles. Here there is a small town, containing some ten or twelve log +houses, a large saw and grist mill, and a comfortable and very neat +inn, kept by Mr. Mosher. Immediately after crossing this creek, the +traveler enters "Yankee Street," as the inhabitants style this section +of the road. For a distance of ten or twelve miles from Nolin toward +Bacon creek, the land belongs, or did belong to the former Postmaster +General, Gideon Granger, and on either side of the road, to the extent +of Mr. G.'s possessions, are settlements made by emigrants from New +York and the New England States. From Bacon creek to Munfordsville, +eight miles, the country is pleasantly undulating, and here, indeed +the whole route from Elizabethtown to the Cave, passes through what +was until recently a Prairie, or, in the language of the country, +"Barrens," and renders it highly interesting, especially to the +botanist, from the multitude and variety of flowers with which it +abounds during the Spring and Autumn months. Munfordsville, and +Woodsonville directly opposite, are situated on Green river, on high +and broken ground. They are small places, in each of which, however, +are comfortable inns. Boats laden with tobacco and other produce, +descend from this point and from a considerable distance above, to New +Orleans. About two and a half miles beyond Munfordsville, the new +State road to the Cave, (virtually made by Dr. Croghan, at a great +expense,) leaves the Turnpike, and joins it again at the Dripping +Springs, eight miles below, on the route to Nashville. This road, in +going from Louisville to Nashville, is not only the shortest by three +and a half miles, but to the Cave it is from ten to twelve miles +shorter than the one taken by visiters previous to its construction. +It therefore lessens the inconvenience, delay and consequent expense +to which travelers were formerly subjected. The road itself is an +excellent one, the country through which it passes highly picturesque, +and Dr. Croghan has entitled himself to the gratitude of the traveling +community by his liberality and enterprise in constructing it. +</p> + +<p> +Persons visiting the Cave by Steamer, (a boat leaves Louisville for +Bowling-Green every week) will find much to interest them in the +admirable locks and dams, rendering the navigation of Green river safe +and good at all seasons for boats of a large class. Passengers can +obtain conveyances at all times and at moderate rates, from +Bowling-Green, by the Dripping Spring, to the Cave, distant twenty-two +miles. Fifteen miles of this road is M'Adamized, the remainder is +graded and not inferior to the finished portion. The last eight miles +from the Dripping Spring to the Cave, cannot fail to excite the +admiration of every one who delights in beholding wild and beautiful +scenery. A visit to the Cedar Springs on this route, is alone worth a +journey of many miles. Passengers on the upper turnpike, from +Bardstown to Nashville, can, on reaching Glasgow, at all times procure +conveyances to the Cave, either by Bell's or by Prewett's Knob. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at the Cave, the visitor alights at a spacious hotel, the +general arrangements, attendance and <i>cuisine</i> of which, are adapted +to the most fastidious taste. He feels that as far as the "creature +comforts" are necessary to enjoyment, the prospect is full of promise; +nor will he be disappointed. And now, this first and most important +preliminary to a traveler settled to his perfect content, he may +remain for weeks and experience daily gratification, "<i>Stephen</i> his +guide," in wandering through some of its two hundred and twenty-six +avenues—in gazing, until he is oppressed with the feeling of their +magnificence, at some of its forty-seven domes,—in listening, +until their drowsy murmurs pain the sense, to some of its many +water-falls,—or haply intent upon discovery, he hails some new vista, +or fretted roof, or secret river, or unsounded lake, or crystal +fountain, with as much rapture as Balboa, from "that peak in Darien," +gazed on the Pacific; he is assured that he "has a poet," and an +historian too. Stephen has linked his name to dome, or avenue, or +river, and it is already immortal—in the Cave. +</p> + +<p> +Independent of the attractions to be found in the Cave, there is much +above ground to gratify the different tastes of visiters. There is a +capacious ball-room, ninety feet by thirty, with a fine band of +music,—a ten-pin alley,—romantic walks and carriage-drives in all +directions, rendered easy of access by the fine road recently +finished. The many rare and beautiful flowers in the immediate +vicinity of the Cave, invite to exercise, and bouquets as exquisite as +were ever culled in garden or green-house, may be obtained even as +late as August. The fine sport the neighborhood affords to the hunter +and the angler—Green river, just at hand, offers such "store of +fish," as father Walton or his son and disciple Cotton, were they +alive again, would love to meditate and angle in!—and the woods! +Capt. Scott or Christopher North himself, might grow weary of the +sight of game, winged or quadruped. +</p> +<hr class="med"> +<h3> +INTERESTING FACTS. +</h3> +<p> </p> +<ul> +<li> + 1. Accidents of no kind have ever occurred in the Mammoth Cave. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 2. Visiters, going in or coming out of the Cave, are not liable to +contract colds; on the contrary, colds are commonly relieved by a +visit in the Cave. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 3. No impure air exists in any part of the Cave. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 4. Reptiles, of no description, have ever been seen in the Cave; on +the contrary, they, as well as quadrupeds, avoid it. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 5. Combustion is perfect in all parts of the Cave. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 6. Decomposition and consequent putrefaction are unobservable in all +parts of the Cave. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 7. The water of the Cave is of the purest kind; and, besides fresh +water, there are one or two sulphur springs. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 8. There are two hundred and twenty-six Avenues in the Cave; +forty-seven Domes; eight Cataracts, and twenty-three Pits. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> + 9. The temperature of the Cave is 59° Fahrenheit, and remains so, +uniformly, winter and Summer. +</li> +<li> </li> +<li> +10. No sound, not even the loudest peal of thunder, is heard one +quarter of a mile in the Cave. +</li> +</ul> +<hr class="med"> +<p> +The author of "Rambles in the Mammoth Cave," has written a scientific +account of the Cave, embracing its Geology, Mineralogy, etc., which we +could not, in time, insert in this publication. +</p> +<hr class="med"> + + +<h3>TABLE OF DISTANCES.</h3> +<p> </p> +<table width="80%" summary="Table of Distances" cellspacing="1"> +<tr><td><b>FROM LOUISVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Medley's</td><td width="15%">10 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mouth Salt River</td><td width="15%">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Trueman's</td><td width="15%"> 8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Haycraft's</td><td width="15%"> 7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elizabethtown</td><td width="15%"> 9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nolin</td><td width="15%"> 9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lucas</td><td width="15%">11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Munfordsville</td><td width="15%">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mammoth Cave</td><td width="15%"><u>14½</u></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td width="25%">88½ miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM LEXINGTON TO MAMMOTH CAVE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Harrodsburgh</td><td width="15%"> 20 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Perryville</td><td width="15%"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Frosts</td><td width="15%"> 12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Young</td><td width="15%"> 4</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lebanon</td><td width="15%"> 7</td></tr> +<tr><td>New Market</td><td width="15%"> 12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Barbee</td><td width="15%"> 6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Somerville</td><td width="15%"> 3</td></tr> +<tr><td>Carters</td><td width="15%"> 5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moss</td><td width="15%"> 5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mitchell</td><td width="15%"> 12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Curls</td><td width="15%"> 7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Greens</td><td width="15%"> 10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dickeys</td><td width="15%"> 8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mammoth Cave</td><td width="15%"><u> 9</u></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td width="25%">130 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE,<br>via</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Dickeys</td><td width="25%">18 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM NASHVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Gees</td><td width="15%"> 9 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tyree Springs</td><td width="15%">13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Buntons</td><td width="15%">12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Franklin</td><td width="15%">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bowling Green</td><td width="15%">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pattersons</td><td width="15%">12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dripping Springs</td><td width="15%"> 3</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mammoth Cave</td><td width="15%"><u> 8</u></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td width="25%">87 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>New Haven</td><td width="15%">15 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>McDougals</td><td width="15%">10</td></tr> +<tr><td>McAchran (Cobb's stand)</td><td width="15%">12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bear Wallow</td><td width="15%">20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dickeys (Prewett's Knob)</td><td width="15%"> 7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mammoth Cave</td><td width="15%"><u> 9</u></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td width="25%">73 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via. MUNFORDSVILLE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>McAchran (Cobb's stand)</td><td width="15%">37 miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Munfordsville</td><td width="15%">12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mammoth Cave</td><td width="15%"><u>14½</u></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td width="25%">63½ miles.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> + +<tr><td><b>FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bells</td><td width="25%">18 miles.</td></tr> +</table> + +<hr class="med"> +<h3> +CONTENTS. +</h3> + + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#i">CHAPTER I.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Mammoth Cave—Where Situated—Green River—Improved Navigation—Range +of Highlands—Beautiful Woodlands—Hotel—Romantic Dell—Mouth of the +Cave—Coldness of the Air—Lamps Lighted—Bones of a Giant—Violence +of the Wind—Lamps Extinguished—Temperature of the Cave—Lamps +Relighted—First Hopper—Grand Vestibule—Glowing Description—Audubon +Avenue—Little Bat Room—Pit two hundred and eighty feet deep—Main +Cave—Kentucky Cliffs—The Church Second Hopper—Extent of the +Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#ii">CHAPTER II.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Gothic Gallery—Gothic Avenue—Good Road—Mummies—Interesting +Account of Them—Gothic Avenue, once called Haunted Chamber—Why so +named—Adventure of a Miner in former days. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#iii">CHAPTER III.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Stalagmite Pillars—The Bell—Vulcan's Furnace—Register Rooms—Stalagmite +Hall or Gothic Chapel—Devil's Arm-Chair—Elephant's Head—Lover's +Leap—Napoleon's Dome—Salts Cave—Annetti's Dome. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#iv">CHAPTER IV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +The Ball-Room—Willie's Spring—Wandering Willie—Ox-Stalls—Giant's +Coffin—Acute-Angle or Great Bend—Range of Cabins—Curative Properties +of the Cave Air long known. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#v">CHAPTER V.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Star Chamber—Salts Room—Indian Houses—Cross Rooms—Black Chambers—A +Dinner Party—Humble Chute—Solitary Cave—Fairy Grotto—Chief City or +Temple—Lee's Description—Return to the Hotel. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#vi">CHAPTER VI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Arrival of a large Party—Second Visit—Lamps Extinguished—Laughable +Confusion—Wooden Bowl—Deserted Chambers—Richardson's +Spring—Side-Saddle Fit—The Labyrinth—Louisa's Dome—Gorin's +Dome—Bottomless Fit—Separation of our Party. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#vii">CHAPTER VII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Pensico Avenue—Cheat Crossings—Pine Apple Bush—Angelica's Grotto +Winding Way—Fat Friend in Trouble—Relief Hall—Bacon Chamber +Bandits Hall. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#viii">CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Mammoth Dome—First Discoverers—Little Dave—Tale of a Lamp—Return. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#ix">CHAPTER IX.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Third Visit—River Hall—Dead Sea—River Styx—Lethe—Echo +River—Purgatory—Eyeless Fish—Supposed Level of the Rivers—Sources +and Outlet Unknown. +</p> + +<p class="ctr"> +<a href="#x">CHAPTER X.</a> +</p> + +<p class="noindent"> +Pass of El Ghor—Silliman's Avenue—Wellington's Gallery—Sulphur +Spring—Mary's Vineyard—Holy Sepulchre—Commencement of Cleveland +Avenue—By whom Discovered—Beautiful Formations—Snow-ball +Room—Rocky Mountains—Croghan's Hall—Serena's Arbor—Dining +Table—Dinner Party and Toast—Hoax of the Guide—Homeward +Bound Passage—Conclusion. +</p> + +<hr class="long"> +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="i">CHAPTER I.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Mammoth Cave—Where Situated—Green River—Improved Navigation—Range of Highlands—Beautiful Woodlands—Hotel—Romantic Dell—Mouth of the Cave—Coldness of the Air—Lamps Lighted—Bones of a Giant—Violence of the Wind—Lamps Extinguished—Temperature of the Cave—Lamps Lighted—First Hoppers—Grand Vestibule—Glowing Description—Audubon Avenue—Little Bat Room—Pit Two-Hundred and Eighty Feet Deep—Main Cave—Kentucky Cliffs—The Church—Second Hoppers—Extent of the Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. +</p> + + +<p> +The Mammoth Cave is situated in the County of Edmondson and State of +Kentucky, equidistant from the cities of Louisville and Nashville, +(about ninety miles from each,) and immediately upon the nearest road +between those two places. Green River is within half a mile of the +Cave, and since the improvements in its navigation, by the +construction of locks and dams, steam-boats can, at all seasons, +ascend to Bowling Green, distant but twenty-two miles, and, for the +greater part of the year, to the Cave itself. +</p> + +<p> +In going to the Cave from Munfordsville, you will observe a lofty +range of barren highlands to the North, which approaches nearer and +nearer the Cave as you advance, until it reaches to within a mile of +it. This range of highlands or cliffs, composed of calcareous rock, +pursuing its rectilinear course, is seen the greater part of the way +as you proceed on towards Bowling Green; and, at last, looses itself +in the counties below. Under this extensive range of cliffs it is +conjectured that the great subterranean territory mainly extends +itself. +</p> + +<p> +For a distance of two miles from the Cave, as you approach it from the +South-East, the country is level. It was, until recently, a prairie, +on which, however, the oak, chestnut and hickory are now growing; and +having no underbrush, its smooth, verdant openings present, here and +there, no unapt resemblance to the parks of the English nobility. +</p> + +<p> +Emerging from these beautiful woodlands, you suddenly have a view of +the hotel and adjacent grounds, which is truly lovely and picturesque. +The hotel is a large edifice, two hundred feet long by forty-five +wide, with piazzas, sixteen feet wide, extending the whole length of +the building, both above and below, well furnished, and kept in a +style, by Mr. Miller, that cannot fail to please the most fastidious +epicure. +</p> + +<p> +The Cave is about two-hundred yards from the hotel, and you proceed to +it down a lovely and romantic dell, rendered umbrageous by a forest of +trees and grape vines; and passing by the ruins of saltpetre furnaces +and large mounds of ashes, you turn abruptly to the right and behold +the mouth of the great cavern and as suddenly feel the coldness of its +air. +</p> + + +<p> +It is an appalling spectacle,—how dark, how dismal, how dreary. +Descending some thirty feet down rather rude steps of stone, you are +fairly under the arch of this "nether world"—before you, in looking +outwards, is seen a small stream of water falling from the face of the +crowning rock, with a wild <a name="11">faltering</a> sound, upon the ruins below, and +disappearing in a deep pit,—behind you, all is gloom and darkness! +</p> + +<p> +Let us now follow the guide—who, placing on his back a canteen of +oil, lights the lamps, and giving one to each person, we commence our +subterranean journey; having determined to confine ourselves, for this +day, to an examination of <i>some</i> of the avenues on this side of the +rivers, and to resume, on a future occasion, our visit to the fairy +scenes beyond. I emphasize the word <i>some</i> of the avenues, because no +visitor has ever yet seen one in twenty; and, although I shall attempt +to describe only a few of them, and in so doing will endeavor to +represent things as I saw them, and as they impressed me, I am not the +less apprehensive that my descriptions will appear as unbounded +exaggerations, so wonderfully vast is the Cave, so singular its +formations, and so unique its characteristics. +</p> + +<p> +At the place where our lamps were lighted, are to be seen the wooden +pipes which conducted the water, as it fell from the ceiling, to the +vats or saltpetre hoppers; and near this spot too, are interred the +bones of a <i>giant</i>, of such vast size is the skeleton, at least of +such portions of it as remain. With regard to this giant, or more +properly skeleton, it may be well to state, that it was found by the +saltpetre workers far within the Cave years ago, and was buried by +their employer where it now lies, to quiet their superstitious fears, +not however before it was bereft of its head by some fearless +antiquary. +</p> + +<p> +Proceeding onward about one-hundred feet, we reached a door, set in a +rough stone wall, stretched across and completely blocking up the +Cave; which was no sooner opened, than our lamps were extinguished by +the violence of the wind rushing outwards. An accurate estimate of the +external temperature, may at any time, be made, by noting the force of +the wind as it blows inward or outward. When it is very warm without, +the wind blows outwards with violence; but when cold, it blows inwards +with proportionate force. The temperature of the Cave, (winter and +summer,) is invariably the same—59° Fahrenheit; and its atmosphere is +perfectly uniform, dry, and of most extraordinary salubrity. +</p> + +<p> +Our lamps being relighted, we soon reached a narrow passage faced on +the left side by a wall, built by the miners to confine the loose +stone thrown up in the course of their operations, when gradually +descending a short distance, we entered the great vestibule or +ante-chamber of the Cave. What do we now see? Midnight!—the +blackness of darkness!—Nothing! Where is the wall we were lately +elbowing out of the way? It has vanished!—It is lost! We are walled +in by darkness, and darkness canopies us above. Look again;—Swing +your torches aloft! Aye, now you can see it; far up, a hundred feet +above your head, a grey ceiling rolling dimly away like a cloud, and +heavy buttresses, bending under the weight, curling and toppling over +their base, begin to project their enormous masses from the shadowy +wall. How vast! How solemn! How awful! The little bells of the brain +are ringing in your ears; you hear nothing else—not even a sigh of +air—not even the echo of a drop of water falling from the roof. The +guide triumphs in your look of amazement and awe; he falls to work on +certain old wooden ruins, to you, yet invisible, and builds a brace or +two of fires, by the aid of which you begin to have a better +conception of the scene around you. You are in the vestibule or +ante-chamber, to which the spacious entrance of the Cave, and the +narrow passage that succeeds it, should be considered the mere +gate-way and covered approach. It is a basilica of an oval +figure—two-hundred feet in length by one-hundred and fifty wide, with +a roof which is as flat and level as if finished by the trowel of the +plasterer, of fifty or sixty or even more feet in height. Two +passages, each a hundred feet in width, open into it at its opposite +extremities, but at right angles to each other; and as they preserve a +straight course for five or six-hundred feet, with the same flat roof +common to each, the appearance to the eye, is that of a vast hall in +the shape of the letter L expanded at the angle, both branches being +five-hundred feet long by one-hundred wide. The passage to the right +hand is the "Great Bat Room;" (Audubon Avenue.) That in the front, the +beginning of the Grand Gallery, or the Main Cavern itself. The whole +of this prodigious space is covered by a single rock, in which the eye +can detect no break or interruption, save at its borders, where is a +broad, sweeping cornice, traced in horizontal panel-work, exceedingly +noble and regular; and not a single pier or pillar of any kind +contributes to support it. It needs no support. It is like the arched +and ponderous roof of the poet's mausoleum: +</p> + +<p class="quote"> + "By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable." +</p> + +<p> +The floor is very irregularly broken, consisting of vast heaps of the +nitrous earth, and of the ruins of the hoppers or vats, composed of +heavy planking, in which the miners were accustomed to leach it. The +hall was, in fact, one of their chief factory rooms. Before their day, +it was a cemetery; and here they disinterred many a mouldering +skeleton, belonging it seems, to that gigantic eight or nine feet race +of men of past days, whose jaw-bones so many vivacious persons have +clapped over their own, like horse-collars, without laying by a single +one to convince the soul of scepticism. +</p> + +<p> +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave,—a hall which hundreds of +visitors have passed through without being conscious of its existence. +The path, leading into the Grand Gallery, hugs the wall on the left +hand; and is, besides, in a hollow, flanked on the right hand by lofty +mounds of earth, which the visitor, if he looks at them at all, which +he will scarcely do, at so early a period after entering, will readily +suppose to be the opposite walls. Those who enter the Great Bat Room, +(Audubon Avenue,) into which flying visitors are seldom conducted, +will indeed have some faint suspicion, for a moment, that they are +passing through infinite space; but the walls of the Cave being so +dark as to reflect not one single ray of light from the dim torches, +and a greater number of them being necessary to disperse the gloom +than are usually employed, they will still remain in ignorance of the +grandeur around them. +</p> + +<p> +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave, as described by the +ingenious author of "Calavar," "Peter Pilgrim," &c. +</p> + +<p> +From the vestibule we entered Audubon Avenue, which is more than a +mile long, fifty or sixty feet wide and as many high. The roof or +ceiling exhibits, as you walk along, the appearance of floating +clouds—and such is observable in many other parts of the Cave. Near +the termination of this avenue, a natural well, twenty-five feet deep, +and containing the purest water, has been recently discovered; it is +surrounded by stalagmite columns, extending from the floor to the +roof, upon the incrustations of which, when lights are suspended, the +reflection from the water below and the various objects above and +around, gives to the whole scene an appearance equally rare and +picturesque. This spot, however, being difficult of access, is but +seldom visited. +</p> + +<p> +The Little Bat Room Cave—a branch of Audubon Avenue,—is on the left +as you advance, and not more than three-hundred yards from the great +vestibule. It is but little more than a quarter of a mile in length, +and is remarkable for its pit of two-hundred and eighty feet in depth; +and as being the hibernal resort of bats. Tens of thousands of them +are seen hanging from the walls, in apparently a torpid state, during +the winter, but no sooner does the spring open, than they disappear. +</p> + +<p> +Returning from the Little Bat Room and Audubon Avenue, we pass again +through the vestibule, and enter the Main Cave or Grand Gallery. This +is a vast tunnel extending for miles, averaging throughout, fifty feet +in width by as many in height It is truly a noble subterranean avenue; +the largest of which man has any knowledge, and replete with interest, +from its varied characteristics and majestic grandeur. +</p> + +<p> +Proceeding down the main Cave about a quarter of a mile, we came to +the Kentucky Cliffs, so called from the fancied resemblance to the +cliffs on the Kentucky River, and descending gradually about twenty +feet entered the church, when our guide was discovered in the <i>pulpit</i> +fifteen feet above us, having reached there by a gallery which leads +from the cliffs. The ceiling here is sixty three feet high, and the +church itself, including the recess, cannot be less than one hundred +feet in diameter. Eight or ten feet above and immediately behind the +pulpit, is the organ loft, which is sufficiently capacious for an. +organ and choir of the largest size. There would appear to be +something like design in all this;—here is a church large enough to +accomodate thousands, a solid projection of the wall of the Cave to +serve as a pulpit, and a few feet back a place for an organ and choir. +In this great temple of nature, religious service has been frequently +held, and it requires but a slight effort on the part of a speaker, to +make himself distinctly heard by the largest congregation. +</p> + +<p> +Sometimes the guides climb up the high and ragged sides, and suspend +lamps in the crevices and on the projections of the rock, thus +lighting up a scene of wild grandeur and sublimity. +</p> + +<p> +Concerts too have been held here, and the melody of song has been +heard, such as would delight the ear of a Catalini or a Malibran. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving the church you will observe, on ascending, a large embankment +of lixiviated earth thrown out by the miners more than thirty years +ago, the print of wagon wheels and the tracks of oxen, as distinctly +defined as though they were made but yesterday; and continuing on for +a short distance, you arrive at the Second Hoppers. Here are seen the +ruins of the old nitre works, leaching vats, pump frames and two lines +of wooden pipes; one to lead fresh water from the dripping spring to +the vats filled with the nitrous earth, and the other to convey the +lye drawn from the large reservoir, back to the furnace at the mouth +of the Cave. +</p> + +<p> +The quantity of nitrous earth contained in the Cave is "sufficient to +supply the whole population of the globe with saltpetre." +</p> + +<p> +"The dirt gives from three to five pounds of nitrate of lime to the +bushel, requiring a large proportion of fixed alkali to produce the +required crystalization, and when left in the Cave become +re-impregnated in three years. When saltpetre bore a high price, +immense quantities were manufactured at the Mammoth Cave, but the +return of peace brought the saltpetre from the East Indies in +competition with the American, and drove that of the produce of our +country entirely from the market. An idea may be formed of the extent +of the manufacture of saltpetre at this Cave, from the fact that the +contract for the supply of the fixed alkali alone for the Cave, for +the year 1814, was twenty thousand dollars." +</p> + +<p> +"The price of the article was so high, and the profits of the +manufacturer so great, as to set half the western world gadding after +nitre caves—the gold mines of the day. Cave hunting in fact became a +kind of mania, beginning with speculators, and ending with hair +brained young men, who dared for the love of adventure the risk which +others ran for profit." Every hole, remarked an old miner, the size of +a man's body, has been penetrated for miles around the Mammoth Cave, +but although we found "<i>petre earth</i>," we never could find a cave +worth having. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="ii">CHAPTER II.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Gothic Gallery—Gothic Avenue—Good Road—Mummies— +Interesting Account of Them—Gothic Avenue once called Haunted +Chamber—Why so Named—Adventure of a Miner in Former Days. +</p> + + +<p> +In looking from the ruins of the nitre works, to the left and some +thirty feet above, you will see a large cave, connected with which is +a narrow gallery sweeping across the Main Cave and losing itself in a +cave, which is seen above to your right This latter cave is the Gothic +Avenue, which no doubt was at one time connected with the cave +opposite and on the same level, forming a complete bridge over the +main avenue, but afterwards broken down and separated by some great +convulsion. +</p> + +<p> +The cave on the left, which is filled with sand, has been penetrated +but a short distance; still from its great size at its entrance, it is +more than probable, that, were all obstructions removed, it might be +found to extend for miles. +</p> + +<p> +While examining the old saltpetre works, the guide left us without our +being aware of it, but casting our eyes around we perceived him +standing some forty feet above, on the projection of a huge rock, or +tower, which commands a view of the grand gallery to a great extent +both up and down. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving the Main Cave and ascending a flight of stairs twenty or +thirty feet, we entered the Gothic Avenue, so named from the Gothic +appearance of some of its compartments. This avenue is about forty +feet wide, fifteen feet high and two miles long. The ceiling looks in +many places as smooth and white as though it had been under the trowel +of the most skilful plasterer. A good road has been made throughout +this cave, and such is the temperature and purity of its atmosphere, +that every visitor must experience their salutary influences. +</p> + +<p> +In a recess on the left hand elevated a few feet above the floor and +about fifty feet from the head of the stairs leading up from the Main +Avenue, two mummies long since taken away, were to be seen in 1813. +They were in good preservation; one was a female with her extensive +wardrobe placed before her. The removal of those mummies from the +place in which they were found can be viewed as little less than +sacrilege. There they had been, perhaps for centuries, and there they +ought to have been left. What has become of them I know not. One of +them, it is said, was lost in the burning of the Cincinnati museum. +The wardrobe of the female was given to a Mr. Ward, of Massachusetts, +who I believe presented it to the British Museum. +</p> + +<p> +Two of the miners found a mummy in Audubon Avenue, in 1814. With a +view to conceal it for a time, they placed large stones over it, and +marked the walls about the spot so that they might find it at some +future period; this however, they were never able to effect. In 1840, +the present hotel keeper Mr. Miller, learning the above facts, went in +search of the place designated, taking with him very many lights, and +found the marks on the walls, and near to them the mummy. It was, +however, so much injured and broken to pieces by the heavy weights +which had been placed upon it, as to be of little interest or value. I +have no doubt, that if proper efforts were made, mummies and other +objects of curiosity might be found, which would tend to throw light +on the early history of the first inhabitants of this continent. +</p> + +<p> +Believing, that whatever may relate to these mummies cannot fail to +interest, I will extract from the recently published narrative of a +highly scientific gentleman of New York, himself one of the early +visitors to the Cave. +</p> + +<p> +"On my first visit to the Mammoth Cave in 1813, I saw a relic of +ancient times, which requires a minute description. This description +is from a memorandum made in the Cave at the time. +</p> + +<p> +"In the digging of saltpetre earth, in the short cave, a flat rock was +met with by the workmen, a little below the surface of the earth in +the Cave; this stone was raised, and was about four feet wide and as +many long; beneath it was a square excavation about three feet deep +and as many in length and width. In this small nether subterranean +chamber, sat in solemn silence one of the human species, a female with +her wardrobe and ornaments placed at her side. The body was in a state +of perfect preservation, and sitting erect The arms were folded up and +the hands were laid across the bosom; around the two wrists was wound +a small cord, designed probably, to keep them in the posture in which +they were first placed; around the body and next thereto, was wrapped +two deer-skins. These skins appear to have been dressed in some mode +different from what is now practised by any people, of whom I have any +knowledge. The hair of the skins was cut off very near the surface. +The skins were ornamented with the imprints of vines and leaves, which +were sketched with a substance perfectly white. Outside of these two +skins was a large square sheet, which was either wove or knit. This +fabric was the inner bark of a tree, which I judge from appearances to +be that of the linn tree. In its texture and appearance, it resembled +the South Sea Island cloth or matting; this sheet enveloped the whole +body and the head. The hair on the head was cut off within an eighth +of an inch of the skin, except near the neck, where it was an inch +long. The color of the hair was a dark red; the teeth were white and +perfect. I discovered no blemish upon the body, except a wound between +two ribs near the back-bone; one of the eyes had also been injured. +The finger and toe nails were perfect and quite long. The features +were regular. I measured the length of one of the bones of the arm +with a string, from the elbow to the wrist joint, and they equalled my +own in length, viz: ten and a half inches. From the examination of the +whole frame, I judged the figure to be that of a very tall female, say +five feet ten inches in height. The body, at the time it was first +discovered, weighed but fourteen pounds, and was perfectly dry; on +exposure to the atmosphere, it gained in weight by absorbing dampness +four pounds. Many persons have expressed surprise that a human body of +great size should weigh so little, as many human skeletons of nothing +but bone, exceed this weight. Recently some experiments have been made +in Paris, which have demonstrated the fact of the human body being +reduced to ten pounds, by being exposed to a heated atmosphere for a +long period of time. The color of the skin was dark, not black; the +flesh was hard and dry upon the bones. At the side of the body lay a +pair of moccasins, a knapsack and an indispensable or reticule. I will +describe these in the order in which I have named them. The moccasins +were made of wove or knit bark, like the wrapper I have described. +Around the top there was a border to add strength and perhaps as an +ornament. These were of middling size, denoting feet of small size. +The shape of the moccasins differs but little from the deer-skin +moccasins worn by the Northern Indians. The knapsack was of wove or +knit bark, with a deep, strong border around the top, and was about +the size of knapsacks used by soldiers. The workmanship of it was +neat, and such as would do credit as a fabric, to a manufacturer of +the present day. The reticule was also made of knit or wove bark. The +shape was much like a horseman's valise, opening its whole length on +the top. On the side of the opening and a few inches from it, were two +rows of hoops, one row on each side. Two cords were fastened to one +end of the reticule at the top, which passed through the loop on one +side and then on the other side, the whole length, by which it was +laced up and secured. The edges of the top of the reticule were +strengthened with deep fancy borders. The articles contained in the +knapsack and reticule were quite numerous, and are as follows: one +head cap, made of wove or knit bark, without any border, and of the +shape of the plainest night cap; seven head-dresses made of the quills +of large birds, and put together somewhat in the same way that feather +fans are made, except that the pipes of the quills are not drawn to a +point, but are spread out in straight lines with the top. This was +done by perforating the pipe of the quill in two places and running +two cords through these holes, and then winding around the quills and +the cord, fine thread, to fasten each quill in the place designed for +it. These cords extended some length beyond the quills on each side, +so that on placing the feathers erect on the head, the cords could be +tied together at the back of the head. This would enable the wearer to +present a beautiful display of feathers standing erect and extending a +distance above the head, and entirely surrounding it. These were most +splendid head dresses, and would be a magnificent ornament to the head +of a female at the present day,—several hundred strings of beads; +these consisted of very hard brown seed smaller than hemp seed, in +each of which a small hole had been made, and through this hole a +small three corded thread, similar in appearance and texture to seine +twine; these were tied up in bunches, as a merchant ties up coral +beads when he exposes them for sale. The red hoofs of fawns, on a +string supposed to be worn around the neck as a necklace. These hoofs +were about twenty in number, and may have been emblematic of +Innocence; the claw of an eagle, with a hole made in it, through which +a cord was passed, so that it could be worn pendent from the neck; the +jaw of a bear designed to be worn in the same manner as the eagle's +claw, and supplied with a cord to suspend it around the neck; two +rattlesnake-skins, one of these had fourteen rattles upon it, these +were neatly folded up; some vegetable colors done up in leaves; a +small bunch of deer sinews, resembling cat-gut in appearance; several +bunches of thread and twine, two and three threaded, some of which +were nearly white; seven needles, some of these were of horn and some +of bone, they were smooth and appeared to have been much used. These +needles had each a knob or whirl on the top, and at the other end were +brought to a point like a large sail needle. They had no eyelets to +receive a thread. The top of one of these needles was handsomely +scalloped; a hand-piece made of deer-skin, with a hole through it for +the thumb, and designed probably to protect the hand in the use of the +needle, the same as thimbles are now used; two whistles about eight +inches long made of cane, with a joint about one third the length; +over the joint is an opening extending to each side of the tube of the +whistle, these openings were about three-fourths of an inch long and a +quarter of an inch wide, and had each a flat reed placed in the +opening. These whistles were tied together with a cord wound around +them. +</p> + +<p> +"I have been thus minute in describing the mute witness from the days +of other times, and the articles which were deposited within her +earthen house. Of the race of people to whom she belonged when living, +we know nothing; and as to conjecture, the reader who gathers from +these pages this account, can judge of the matter as well as those who +saw the remnant of mortality in the subterranean chambers in which she +was entombed. The cause of the preservation of her body, dress and +ornaments is no mystery. The dry atmosphere of the Cave, with the +nitrate of lime, with which the earth that covers the bottom of these +nether palaces is so highly impregnated, preserves animal flesh, and +it will neither putrify nor decompose when confined to its unchanging +action. Heat and moisture are both absent from the Cave, and it is +these two agents, acting together, which produce both animal and +vegetable decomposition and putrefaction. +</p> + +<p> +"In the ornaments, etc., of this mute witness of ages gone, we have a +record of olden time, from which, in the absence of a written record, +we may draw some conclusions. In the various articles which +constituted her ornaments, there were no metallic substances. In the +make of her dress, there is no evidence of the use of any other +machinery than the bone and horn needles. The beads are of a +substance, of the use of which for such purposes, we have no account +among people of whom we have any written record. She had no warlike +arms. By what process the hair upon her head was cut short, or by what +process the deer-skins were shorn, we have no means of conjecture. +These articles afford us the same means of judging of the nation to +which she belonged, and of their advances in the arts, that future +generations will have in the exhumation of a tenant of one of our +modern tombs, with the funeral shroud, etc. in a state of like +preservation; with this difference, that with the present inhabitants +of this section of the globe, but few articles of ornament are +deposited with the body. The features of this ancient member of the +human family much resembled those of a tall, handsome American woman. +The forehead was high, and the head well formed. +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"Ye mouldering relics of a race departed,</p> +<p>Your names have perished; not a trace remains."</p></div></div> + +<p> +The Gothic Avenue was once called the Haunted Chamber, and owed its +name to an adventure that befell one of the miners in former days, +which is thus related by the author of "Calavar." +</p> + +<p> +In the Lower Branch is a room called the Salts Room, which produces +considerable quantities of the sulphate of magnesia, or of soda, we +forget which—a mineral that the proprietor of the Cave did not fail +to turn to account. The miner in question was a new and raw hand—of +course neither very well acquainted with the Cave itself, nor with the +approved modes of averting or repairing accidents, to which, from the +nature of their occupation, the miners were greatly exposed. Having +been sent, one day, in charge of an older workman, to the Salts Room +to dig a few sacks of the salt, and finding that the path to this +sequestered nook was perfectly plain; and that, from the Haunted +Chambers being a single, continuous passage without branches, it was +impossible to wander from it, our hero disdained on his second visit, +to seek or accept assistance, and trudged off to his work alone. The +circumstance being common enough he was speedily forgotten by his +brother miners; and it was not until several hours after, when they +all left off their toil for the more agreeable duty of eating their +dinner, that his absence was remarked, and his heroical resolution to +make his way alone to the Salts Room remembered. As it was apparent, +from the time he had been gone, that some accident must have happened +to him, half a dozen men, most of them negroes, stripped half naked, +their usual working costume, were sent to hunt him up, a task supposed +to be of no great difficulty, unless he had fallen into a pit. In the +meanwhile, the poor miner, it seems, had succeeded in reaching the +Salts Room, filling his sack, and retracing his steps half way back to +the Grand Gallery; when finding the distance greater than he thought +it ought to be, the conceit entered his unlucky brain that he <i>might</i> +perhaps be going wrong. No sooner had the suspicion struck him, than +he fell into a violent terror, dropped his sack, ran backwards, then +returned, then ran back again—each time more frightened and +bewildered than before; until at last he ended his adventure by +tumbling over a stone and extinguishing his lamp. Thus left in the +dark, not knowing where to turn, frightened out of his wits besides, +he fell to remembering his sins—always remembered by those who are +lost in the Cave—and praying with all his might for succor. But hours +passed away, and assistance came not; the poor fellow's frenzy +increased; he felt himself a doomed man; he thought his terrible +situation was a judgment imposed on him for his wickedness; nay, he +even believed, at last, that he was no longer an inhabitant of the +earth—that he had been translated, even in the body, to the place of +torment—in other words, that he was in hell itself, the prey of the +devils, who would presently be let loose upon him. It was at this +moment the miners in search of him made their appearance; they lighted +upon his sack, lying where he had thrown it, and set up a great shout, +which was the first intimation he had of their approach. He started +up, and seeing them in the distance, the half naked negroes in +advance, all swinging their torches aloft, he, not doubting they were +those identical devils whose appearance he had been expecting, took to +his heels, yelling lustily for mercy; nor did he stop, notwithstanding +the calls of his amazed friends, until he had fallen a second time +over the rocks, where he lay on his face, roaring for pity, until, by +dint of much pulling and shaking, he was convinced that he was still +in the world and the Mammoth Cave. Such is the story of the Haunted +Chambers, the name having been given to commemorate the incident. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="iii">CHAPTER III.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Stalagmite Pillars—The Bell—Vulcan's +Furnace—Register Rooms—Stalagmite Hall or Gothic +Chapel—Devil's Arm-Chair—Elephant's Head—Lover's +Leap—Napoleon's Dome—Salts Cave—Annetti's Dome. +</p> + + +<p> +Resuming our explorations in this most interesting avenue, we soon +came in sight of stalagmite pillars, reaching from the floor to the +ceiling, once perhaps white and translucent, but now black and +begrimed with smoke. At this point we were startled by the hollow +tread of our feet, caused by the proximity of another large avenue +underneath, which the guide assured us he had often visited. In this +neighborhood too, there are a number of Stalactites, one of which was +called the Bell, which on being struck, sounded like the deep bell of +a cathedral; but it now no longer tolls, having been broken in twain +by a visiter from Philadelphia some years ago. Further on our way, we +passed Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnace, where there is a heap, not +unlike cinders in appearance, and some dark colored water, in which I +suppose the great forger used to slake his iron and perhaps his bolts. +Next in order and not very distant are the new and old Register Rooms. +Here on the ceiling which is as smooth and white as if it had been +finished off by the plasterer, thousands of names have been traced by +the smoke of a candle—names which can create no pleasing associations +or recollections; names unknown to fame, and which might excite +disgust, when read for the first time on the ceiling which they have +disfigured. +</p> + +<p> +Soon after leaving the old Register Room, we were halted by our guide, +who took from us all the lamps excepting one. Having made certain +arrangements, he cried aloud, "Come on!" which we did, and in a few +moments entered an apartment of surprising grandeur and magnificence. +This apartment or hall is elliptical in shape and eighty feet long by +fifty wide. Stalagmite columns, of vast size nearly block up the two +ends; and two rows of pillars of smaller dimensions, reaching from +floor to ceiling and equidistant from the wall on either side, extend +its entire length. Against the pillars, and in many places from the +ceiling, our lamps were hanging, and, lighting up the whole space, +exhibited to our enraptured sight a scene surpassingly grand, and well +calculated to inspire feelings of solemnity and awe. This is the +Stalagmite Hall, or as some call it, the Gothic Chapel, which no one +can see under such circumstances as did our party, without being +forcibly reminded of the old, very old cathedrals of Europe. +Continuing our walk we came to the Devil's Arm-Chair. This is a large +Stalagmite column, in the centre of which is formed a capacious seat. +Like most other visiters we seated ourselves in the chair of his +Satanic Majesty, and drank sulphur water dipped up from a small basin +of rock, near the foot of the chair. Further on we passed a number of +Stalactites and Stalagmites, Napoleon's Breast-Work, (behind which we +found ashes and burnt cane,) the Elephant's Head, the Curtain, and +arrived at last at the Lover's Leap. The Lover's Leap is a large +pointed rock projecting over a dark and gloomy hollow, thirty or more +feet deep. Our guide told us that the young ladies often asked their +beaux to take the Lover's Leap, but that he never knew any to "love +hard enough" to attempt it. We descended into the hollow, immediately +below the Lover's Leap, and entered to the left and at right-angle +with our previous course, a passage or chasm in the rock, three feet +wide and fifty feet high, which conducted us to the lower branch of +the Gothic Avenue. At the entrance of this lower branch is an +immensely large flat rock called Gatewood's Dining Table, to the right +of which is a cave, which we penetrated, as far as the Cooling Tub—a +beautiful basin of water six feet wide and three deep—into which a +small stream of the purest water pours itself from the ceiling and +afterwards finds its way into the Flint Pit at no great distance. +Returning, we wound around Gatewood's Dining Table, which nearly +blocks up the way, and continued our walk along the lower branch more +than half a mile, passing Napoleon's Dome, the Cinder Banks, the +Crystal Pool, the Salts Cave, etc., etc. Descending a few feet and +leaving the cave which continues onwards, we entered, on our right, a +place of great seclusion and grandeur, called Annetti's Dome. Through +a crevice in the right wall of the dome is a waterfall. The water +issues in a stream a foot in diameter, from a high cave in the side of +the dome—falls upon the solid bottom, and passes off by a small +channel into the Cistern, which is directly on the pathway of the +cave. The Cistern is a large pit, which is usually kept nearly full of +water. +</p> + +<p> +Near the end of this branch, (the lower branch) there is a crevice in +the ceiling over the last spring, through which the sound of water may +be heard falling in a cave or open space above. +</p> + +<p> +Highly gratified with what we had now seen in the Gothic Avenue, we +concluded to pursue it no further, but to retrace our steps to the +Main Cave, regretting however, that we had not visited the Salts Cave, +(a branch of the Gothic Avenue,) on being told, when too late, that it +would have amply compensated us for our trouble, being rich in fine +specimens of Epsom or Glauber salts. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="iv">CHAPTER IV.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +The Ball-Room—Willie's Spring—Wandering Willie Ox-Stalls +Giant's Coffin— Acute-Angle or Great Bend— Range of +Cabins— Curative Properties of the Cave Air long known. +</p> + + +<p> +We are now again in the Main Cave or Grand Gallery, which continues to +increase in interest as we advance, eliciting from our party frequent +and loud exclamations of admiration and wonder. Not many steps from +the stairs leading down from the Gothic Avenue into the Main Cave, is +the Ball-Room, so called from its singular adaptedness to such a +purpose; for there is an orchestra, fifteen or eighteen feet high, +large enough to accommodate a hundred or more musicians, with a +gallery extending back to the level of the high embankment near the +Gothic Avenue; besides which, the avenue here is lofty, wide, straight +and perfectly level for several hundred feet. At the trifling expense +of a plank floor, seats and lamps, a ball-room might be had, if not +more splendid, at all events more grand and magnificent than any other +on earth. The effect of music here would be truly inspiring; but the +awful solemnity of the place may, in the opinion of many, prevent its +being used as a temple of Terpsichore. Extremes, we are told, often +meet. The same objection has been urged against the Cave's being used +for religious services. "No clergyman," remarked a distinguished +divine, "be he ever so eloquent could concentrate the attention of his +congregation in such a place. The God of nature speaks too loud here +for <i>man to be heard</i>." +</p> + +<p> +Leaving these points to be settled as they may, we will proceed +onwards; the road now is broad and fine, and in many places dusty. +Next in order is Willie's Spring, a beautifully fluted niche in the +left hand wall, caused by the continual attrition of water trickling +down into a basin below. This spring derives its name from that of a +young gentleman, the son of a highly respectable clergyman of +Cincinnati, who, in the spirit of romance, assumed the name of +Wandering Willie, and taking with him his violin, marched on foot to +the Cave. Wishing no better place in which to pass the night, he +selected this spot, requesting the guide to call for him in the +morning. This he did and found him fast asleep upon his bed of earth, +with his violin beside him—ever since it has been called Willie's +Spring. Just beyond the spring and near the left wall, is the place +where the oxen were fed during the time of the miners; and strewn +around are a great many corn-cobs, to all appearance, and in fact, +perfectly sound, although they have lain there for more than thirty +years. In this neighborhood is a niche of great size in the wall on +the left, and reaching from the roof to the bottom of a pit more than +thirty feet deep, down the sides of which, water of the purest kind is +continually dripping, and is afterwards conducted to a large trough, +from which the invalids obtain their supply of water, during their +sojourn in the Cave. Near the bottom, this pit or well expands into a +large room, out of which, there is no opening. It is probable that +Richardson's Spring in the Deserted Chambers is supplied from this +well. Passing the Well Cave, Rocky Cave, etc., etc., we arrived at the +Giant's Coffin, a huge rock on the right, thus named from its singular +resemblance in shape to a coffin; its locality, apart from its great +size, renders it particularly conspicuous, as all must pass around it, +in leaving the Main Cave, to visit the rivers and the thousand wonders +beyond. At this point commence those incrustations, which, portraying +every imaginable figure on the ceiling, afford full scope to the +fanciful to picture what they will, whether of "birds, or beasts, or +creeping things." About a hundred yards beyond the Coffin, the Cave +makes a majestic curve, and sweeping round the Great Bend or +Acute-Angle, resumes its general course. Here the guide ignited a +Bengal light. This vast amphitheatre became illuminated, and a scene +of enchantment was exposed to our view. Poets may conceive, but no +language can describe, the splendor and sublimity of the scene. The +rapturous exclamations of our party might have been heard from afar, +both up and down this place of wonders. Opposite to the Great Bend, is +the entrance of the Sick Room Cave, so called from the fact of the +sudden sickness of a visiter a few years ago, supposed to have been +caused by his smoking, with others, cigars in one of its most remote +and confined nooks. Immediately beyond the Great Bend, a row of +cabins, built for consumptive patients, commences. All of these are +framed buildings, with the exception of two, which are of stone. They +stand in line, from thirty to one hundred feet apart, exhibiting a +picturesque, yet at the same time, a gloomy and mournful appearance. +<a name="46"> +They are well furnished, and without question, would with good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air and uniform temperature, cure the +pulmonary consumption. The invalids in the Cave ought to be cured</a>; but +I doubt whether the Cave air or any thing else can cure confirmed +Phthisis. A knowledge of the curative properties of the Cave air, is +not, as is generally supposed, of recent date. It has been long known. +A physician of great respectability, formerly a member of Congress +from the district adjoining the Cave, was so firmly convinced of the +medical properties of its air, as to express more than twenty years +ago, as his opinion, that the State of Kentucky ought to purchase it, +with a view to establish a hospital in one of its avenues. Again the +author of "Calavar," himself a distinguished professor of medicine, +makes the following remarks in relation to the Cave air, as far back +as 1832, the date of his visit: +</p> + +<p> +"It is always temperate. Its purity, judging from its effects on the +lungs, and from other circumstances, is remarkable, though in what its +purity consists, I know not. But, be its composition what it may, it +is certain its effects upon the spirits and bodily powers of visiters, +are extremely exhilarating; and that it is not less salubrious than +enlivening. The nitre diggers were a famously healthy set of men; it +was a common and humane practice to employ laborers of enfeebled +constitutions, who were soon restored to health and strength, though +kept at constant labour; and more joyous, merry fellows were never +seen. The oxen, of which several were kept day and night in the Cave, +hauling the nitrous earth, were after a month or two of toil, in as +fine condition for the shambles, as if fattened in the stall. The +ordinary visiter, though rambling a dozen hours or more, over paths of +the roughest and most difficult kind, is seldom conscious of fatigue, +until he returns to the upper air; and then it seems to him, at least +in the summer season, that he has exchanged the atmosphere of paradise +for that of a charnel warmed by steam—all without is so heavy, so +dank, so dead, so mephitic. Awe and even apprehension, if that has +been felt, soon yield to the influence of the delicious air of the +Cave; and after a time a certain jocund feeling is found mingled with +the deepest impressions of sublimity, which there are so many objects +to awaken. I recommend all broken hearted lovers and dyspeptic dandies +to carry their complaints to the Mammoth Cave, where they will +undoubtedly find themselves "translated" into very buxom and happy +persons before they are aware of it." +</p> + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="v">CHAPTER V.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Star Chamber— Salts Room— Indian Houses— Cross Rooms +Black Chambers— A Dinner Party— Humble Chute— +Solitary Care— Fairy Grotto— Chief City or Temple— +Lee's Description— Return to the Hotel. +</p> + + +<p> +The Star Chamber next attracted our attention. It presents the most +perfect optical illusion imaginable; in looking up to the ceiling, +which is here very high, you seem to see the very firmament itself, +studded with stars; and afar off, a comet with its long, bright tail. +Not far from this Star Chamber, may be seen, in a cavity in the wall +on the right, and about twenty feet above the floor, an oak pole about +ten feet long and six inches in diameter, with two round sticks of +half the thickness and three feet long, tied on to it transversely, at +about four feet apart. By means of a ladder we ascended to the cavity, +and found the pole to be firmly fixed—one end resting on the bottom +of the cavity, and the other reaching across and forced into a crevice +about three feet above. We supposed that this was a ladder once used +by the former inhabitants of the Cave, in getting the salts which are +incrusted on the walls in many places. Doct. Locke, of the Medical +College of Ohio, is, however, of the opinion, that on it was placed a +dead body,—similar contrivances being used by some Indian tribes on +which to place their dead. Although thousands have passed the spot, +still this was never seen until the fall of 1841. Ages have doubtless +rolled by since this was placed here, and yet it is perfectly sound; +even the bark which confines the transverse pieces shows no marks of +decay. +</p> + +<p> +We passed through some Side Cuts, as they are called. These are caves +opening on the sides of the avenues; and after running for some +distance, entering them again. Some of them exceed half a mile in +length; but most generally they are short. In many of them, "quartz, +calcedony, red ochre, gypsum, and salts are found." The walking, in +this part of the avenue, being rough, we progressed but slowly, until +we reached the Salts Room; here we found the walls and ceiling covered +with salts hanging in crystals. The least agitation of the air causing +flakes of the crystals to fall like snow. In the Salts Room are the +Indian houses, under the rocks—small spaces or rooms completely +covered—some of which contain ashes and cane partly burnt. The +<i>Cross Rooms</i>, which we next come to, is a grand section of this +avenue; the ceiling has an unbroken span of one hundred and seventy +feet, without a column to support it! The mouths of two caves are seen +from this point, neither of which we visited, and much to our loss, as +will appear from the following extract from the "Notes on the Mammoth +Cave, by E.F. Lee, Esq., Civil Engineer," in relation to one of +them—the Black Chambers: +</p> + +<p> +"At the ruins in the Black Chambers, there are a great many large +blocks composed of different strata of rocks, cemented together, +resembling the walls, pedestals, cornices, etc., of some old castle, +scattered over the bottom of the Cave. The avenue here is so wide, as +to make it quite a task to walk from one side to the other. On the +right hand, beyond the ruins, you enter the right branch, on the same +level—the ceiling of which is regularly arched. Through the Big +Chimneys you ascend into an upper room, about the size of the Main +Cave, the bottom of which is higher than the ceiling of the one below. +Proceeding on we soon heard the low murmurings of a water-fall,—the +sound of which becomes louder and louder as we advanced, until we +reached the Cataract. In the roof are perforations as large as a +hogshead, on the right hand side, from which water is ever falling, on +ordinary occasions in not very large quantities; but after heavy +rains—in torrents; and with a horrible roar that shakes the walls and +resounds afar through the Cave. It is at such times that these +cascades are worthy the name of cataracts, which they bear. The water +falling into a great funnel-shaped pit, immediately vanishes." +</p> + +<p> +Here we concluded to dine, and at quite a fashionable hour—4, P.M. +The guide arranged the plates, knives and forks, wine-glasses, etc., +on a huge table of rock, and announced,—"Dinner is ready!" We filled +our plates with the excellent viands prepared at the Cave House, and +seating ourselves on the rocks or nitre earth, partook of our repast +with the gusto of gourmands, and quaffing, ever and anon, wines which +would have done credit to the Astor or Tremont House. "There may be," +remarked our corpulent friend B., "a great deal of romance in this way +of eating—with your plate on your lap, and seated on a rock or a lump +of nitre earth—but for my part I would rather dispense with the +poetry of the thing and eat a good dinner, whether above or below +ground, from off a bona-fide table, and seated in a good substantial +chair. The proprietor ought to have at all the watering places, (and +they are numerous,) tables, chairs, and the necessary table furniture, +that visitors might partake of their collations in some degree of +comfort." The guide who, by the way, is a very intelligent and +facetious fellow, was much amused at the suggestion of our friend, and +remarked that "the owner of the Cave, Doct. Croghan, lived near +Louisville, and that the only way to get such '<i>fixings</i>' at the +watering places, was to write to him on the subject." "Then," said B., +"for the sake of those who may follow after us, I will take it upon +myself to write." +</p> + +<p> +From this point you have a view of the Main Avenue on our left, +pursuing its general course, and exhibiting the same solemn grandeur +as from the commencement,—and directly before us the way to the +Humble Chute and the Cataract. The Humble Chute is the entrance to the +Solitary Chambers; before entering which, we must crawl on our hands +and knees some fifteen or twenty feet under a low arch. It is +appropriately named; as is the Solitary Chambers which we have now +entered. You feel here,—to use an expression of one of our +party,—"out of the world." Without dwelling on the intervening +objects—although they are numerous and not without interest,—we will +enter at once the Fairy Grotto of the Solitary Cave. It is in truth a +fairy grotto; a countless number of Stalactites are seen extending, at +irregular distances, from the roof to the floor, of various sizes and +of the most fantastic shapes—some quite straight, some crooked, some +large and hollow—forming irregularly fluted columns; and some solid +near the ceiling, and divided lower down, into a great number of small +branches like the roots of trees; exhibiting the appearance of a coral +grove. Hanging our lamps to the incrustations on the columns, the +grove of Stalactites became faintly lighted up, disclosing a scene of +extraordinary wildness and beauty. "This is nothing to what you'll see +on the other side of the rivers," cries our guide, smiling at our +enthusiastic admiration. With all its present beauty, this grotto is +far from being what it was, before it was despoiled and robbed some +eight or nine years ago, by a set of vandals, who, through sheer +wantonness, broke many of the stalactites, leaving them strewn on the +floor—a disgustful memorial of their vulgar propensities and +barbarian-like conduct. +</p> + +<p> +Returning from the Fairy Grotto, we entered the Main Cave at the +Cataract, and continued our walk to the Chief City or Temple, which is +thus described by Lee, in his "Notes on the Mammoth Cave:" +</p> + +<p> +"The Temple is an immense vault covering an area of two acres, and +covered by a single dome of solid rock, one hundred and twenty feet +high. It excels in size the Cave of Staffa; and rivals the celebrated +vault in the Grotto of Antiparos, which is said to be the largest in +the world. In passing through from one end to the other, the dome +appears to follow like the sky in passing from place to place on the +earth. In the middle of the dome there is a large mound of rocks +rising on one side nearly to the top, very steep and forming what is +called the <i>Mountain</i>. When first I ascended this mound from the cave +below, I was struck with a feeling of awe more deep and intense, than +any thing that I had ever before experienced. I could only observe the +narrow circle which was illuminated immediately around me; above and +beyond was apparently an unlimited space, in which the ear could catch +not the slightest sound, nor the eye find an object to rest upon. It +was filled with silence and darkness; and yet I knew that I was +beneath the earth, and that this space, however large it might be, was +actually bounded by solid walls. My curiosity was rather excited than +gratified. In order that I might see the whole in one connected view, +I built fires in many places with the pieces of cane which I found +scattered among the rocks. Then taking my stand on the Mountain, a +scene was presented of surprising magnificence. On the opposite side +the strata of gray limestone, breaking up by steps from the bottom, +could scarcely be discerned in the distance by the glimmering light. +Above was the lofty dome, closed at the top by a smooth oval slab, +beautifully defined in the outline, from which the walls sloped away +on the right and left into thick darkness. Every one has heard of the +dome of the Mosque of St. Sophia, of St. Peter's and St. Paul's; they +are never spoken of but in terms of admiration, as the chief works of +architecture, and among the noblest and most stupendous examples of +what man can do when aided by science; and yet when compared with the +dome of this Temple, they sink into comparative insignificance. Such +is the surpassing grandeur of Nature's works." +</p> + +<p> +To us, the Temple seemed to merit the glowing description above given, +but what would Lee think, on being told, that since the discovery of +the rivers and the world of beauties beyond them, not one person in +fifty visits the Temple or the Fairy Grotto; they are now looked upon +as tame and uninteresting. The hour being now late, we concluded to +proceed no further, but to return to the hotel, where we arrived at +11, P.M. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="vi">CHAPTER VI.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Arrival of a large Party— Second Visit— Lamps +Extinguished— Laughable Confusion— Wooden Bowl Deserted +Chambers Richardson's Side-Saddle Pit— The Labyrinth— +Louisa's Dome— Gorin's Dome— Bottomless Pit— +Separation of our Party. +</p> + + +<p> +On being summoned to breakfast the next morning, we ascertained that a +large party of ladies and gentlemen had arrived during our absence, +who, like ourselves, were prepared to enter the Cave. They, however, +were for hurrying over the rivers, to the distant points beyond—we, +for examining leisurely the avenues on this side. At 8 o'clock, both +parties accompanied by their respective guides and making a very +formidable array, set out from the hotel, happy in the anticipation of +the "sights to be seen." It was amusing to hear the remarks, and to +witness the horror of some of the party on first beholding the mouth +of the Cave. Oh! it is so frightful!—It is so cold!—I <i>cannot</i> go +in! Notwithstanding all this, curiosity prevailed, and down we +went—arranged our lamps, which being extinguished in passing through +the doorway by the strong current of air rushing outwards, there arose +such a clamor, such laughter, such screaming, such crying out for the +guides, as though all Bedlam had broke loose,—the guides exerting +themselves to quiet apprehensions, and the visiters of yesterday +knowing that there was neither danger nor just cause of alarm, doing +their utmost to counteract their efforts, by well feigned exclamations +of terror. At length the lamps were re-lighted and order being +restored, onward we went. The Vestibule and Church were each in turn +illuminated, to the enthusiastic delight of all—even those of the +party, who were but now so terrified, were loud in their expressions +of admiration and wonder. Arrived at the Giant's Coffin, we leave the +Main Cave to enter regions very dissimilar to those we have seen. A +narrow passage behind the Coffin leads to a circular room, one hundred +feet in diameter, with a low roof, called the Wooden Bowl, in allusion +to its figure, or as some say, from a wooden bowl having been found +here by some old miner. This Bowl is the vestibule of the Deserted +Chambers. On the right, are the Steeps of Time, (why so called we are +left to conjecture,) down which, descending about twenty feet, and +almost perpendicularly for the first ten, we enter the Deserted +Chambers, which in their course present features extremely wild, +terrific and multiform. For two hundred yards the ceiling as you +advance is rough and broken, but further on, it is waving, white and +smooth as if worn by water. At Richardson's Spring, the imprint of +moccasins and of children's feet, of some by-gone age, were recently +seen. There are more pits in the Deserted Chambers than in any other +portion of the Cave; and among the most noted are the Covered Pit, the +Side-Saddle Pit and the Bottomless Pit. Indeed the whole range of +these chambers, is so interrupted by pits, and throughout is so +irregular and serpentine and so bewildering from the number of its +branches, that the visiter, doubtful of his footing, and uncertain as +to his course, is soon made sensible of the prudence of the +regulation, which enjoins him, "not to leave the guide." "The Covered +Pit is in a little branch to the left; this pit is twelve or fifteen +feet in diameter, covered with a thin rock, around which a narrow +crevice extends, leaving only a small support on one side. There is a +large rock resting on the centre of the cover. The sound of a +waterfall may be heard from the pit but cannot be seen." The +Side-Saddle Pit is about twenty feet long and eight feet wide, with a +margin about three feet high, and extending lengthwise ten feet, +against which one may safely lean, and view the interior of the pit +and dome. After a short walk from this place, we came to a ladder on +our right, which conducted us down about fifteen feet into a narrow +pass, not more than five feet wide; this pass is the Labyrinth, one +end of which leads to the Bottomless Pit, entering it about fifty feet +down, and the other after various windings, now up, now down, over a +bridge, and up and down ladders, conducts you to one of the chief +glories of the Cave,—Gorin's Dome; which, strange to tell, was not +discovered until a few years ago. Immediately behind the ladder, there +is a narrow opening in the rock, extending up very nearly to the cave +above, which leads about twenty feet back to Louisa's Dome, a pretty +little place of not more than twelve feet in diameter, but of twice +that height. This dome is directly under the centre of the cave we had +just been traversing, and when lighted up, persons within it can be +plainly seen from above, through a crevice in the rock. Arrived at +Gorin's Dome, we were forcibly struck by the seeming appearance of +<i>design</i>, in the arrangement of the several parts, for the special +accommodation of visiters—even with reference to their number. The +Labyrinth, which we followed up, brought us at its termination, to a +window or hole, about four feet square, three feet above the floor, +opening into the interior of the dome, about midway between the bottom +and top; the wall of rock being at this spot, not more than eighteen +inches thick; and continuing around, and on the outside of the dome, +along a gallery of a few feet in width, for twenty or more paces, we +arrived at another opening of much larger size, eligibly disposed, and +commanding, like the first, a view of very nearly the whole interior +space. Whilst we are arranging ourselves, the guide steals away, +passes down, down, one knows not how, and is presently seen by the dim +light of his lamp, fifty feet below, standing near the wall on the +inside of the dome. The dome is of solid rock, with sides apparently +fluted and polished, and perhaps two hundred feet high. Immediately in +front and about thirty feet from the window, a huge rock seems +suspended from above and arranged in folds like a curtain. Here we are +then, the guide fifty feet below us. Some of the party thrusting their +heads and, in their anxiety to see, their bodies through the window +into the vast and gloomy dome of two hundred feet in height. The +window is not large enough to afford a view to all at once, they crowd +one on the top of the other; the more cautious, and those who do not +like to be squeezed, stand back; but still holding fast to the +garments of their friends for fear they might in the ecstasy of their +feelings, leap into the frightful abyss into which they are looking. +Suddenly the guide ignites a <i>Bengal light</i>. The vast dome is radiant +with light. Above, as far as the eye can reach, are seen the shining +sides of the fluted walls; below, the yawning gulf is rendered the +more terrific, by the pallid light exposing to view its vast depth, +the whole displaying a scene of sublimity and splendor, such as words +have not power to describe. Returning, we ascended the ladder near +Louisa's Dome, and continued on, having the Labyrinth on our right +side until it terminates in the Bottomless Pit. This pit terminates +also the range of the Deserted Chambers, and was considered the Ultima +Thule of all explorers, until within the last few years, when Mr. +Stephenson of Georgetown, Ky. and the intrepid guide, Stephen, +conceived the idea of reaching the opposite side by throwing a ladder +across the frightful chasm. This they accomplished, and on this +ladder, extending across a chasm of twenty feet wide and near two +hundred deep, did these daring explorers cross to the opposite side, +and thus open the way to all those splendid discoveries, which have +added so much to the value and renown of the Mammoth Cave. The +Bottomless Pit is somewhat in the shape of a horse-shoe, having a +tongue of land twenty seven feet long, running out into the middle of +it. From the end of this point of land, a substantial bridge has been +thrown across to the cave on the opposite side. +</p> + +<p> +While standing on the bridge, the guide lets down a lighted paper into +the deep abyss; it descends twisting and turning, lower and lower, and +is soon lost in total darkness, leaving us to conjecture, as to what +may be below. Crossing the bridge to the opposite cave, we find +ourselves in the midst of rocks of the most gigantic size lying along +the edge of the pit and on our left hand. Above the pit is a dome of +great size, but which, from its position, few have seen. Proceeding +along a narrow passage for some distance, we arrived at the point from +which diverge two noted routes—the Winding Way and Pensico Avenue. +Here we called a short halt; then wishing our newly formed +acquintances [Transcriber's note: sic] a safe voyage over the "deep waters," we parted; they +taking the left hand to the Winding Way and the rivers, and we the +right to Pensico Avenue. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="vii">CHAPTER VII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Pensico Avenue— Great Crossings— Pine Apple Bush— +Angelica's Grotto— Winding Way— Fat Friend in +Trouble— Relief Hall— Bacon Chamber— Bandit's Hall. +</p> + + +<p> +Pensico Avenue averages about fifty feet in width, with a height of +about thirty feet; and is said to be two miles long. It unites in an +eminent degree the truly beautiful with the sublime, and is highly +interesting throughout its entire extent. For a quarter of a mile from +the entrance, the roof is beautifully arched, about twelve feet high +and sixty wide, and formerly was encrusted with rosettes and other +formations, nearly all of which have been taken away or demolished, +leaving this section of the Cave quite denuded. The walking here is +excellent; a dozen persons might run abreast for a quarter of a mile +to Bunyan's Way, a branch of the avenue, leading on to the river. At +this point the avenue changes its features of beauty and regularity, +for those of wild grandeur and sublimity, which it preserves to the +end. The way, no longer smooth and level, is frequently interrupted +and turned aside by huge rocks, which lie tumbled around, in all +imaginable disorder. The roof now becomes very lofty and imposingly +magnificent; its long, pointed or lancet arches, forcibly reminding +you of the rich and gorgeous ceilings of the old Gothic Cathedrals, at +the same time solemnly impressing you with the conviction that this is +a "building not made with hands." No one, not dead to all the more +refined sensibilities of our nature, but must exclaim, in beholding +the sublime scenes which here present themselves, this is not the work +of man! No one can be here without being reminded of the all pervading +presence of the great "Father of all." +</p> + +<p class="quote"> + "What, but God, pervades, adjusts and agitates the whole!" +</p> + +<p> +Not far from the point at which the avenue assumes the rugged +features, which now characterize it, we separated from our guide, he +continuing his straight-forward course, and we descending gradually a +few feet and entering a tunnel of fifteen feet wide on our left, the +ceiling twelve or fourteen feet high, perfectly arched and beautifully +covered with white incrustations, very soon reached the Great +Crossings. Here the guide jumped down some six or eight feet from the +avenue which we had left, into the tunnel where we were standing, and +crossing it, climbed up into the avenue, which he pursued for a short +distance or until it united with the tunnel, where he again joined us. +In separating from, then crossing, and again uniting with the avenue, +it describes with it something like the figure 8. The name, Great +Crossings, is not unapt. It was however, not given, as our intelligent +guide veritably assured us, in honor of the Great Crossings where the +man lives who killed Tecumseh, but because two great caves cross here; +and moreover said he, "the valiant Colonel ought to change the name of +his place, as no two places in a State should bear the same name, and +this being the <i>great</i> place ought to have the preference." +</p> + +<p> +Not very far from this point, we ascended a hill on our left, and +walking a short distance over our shoe-tops in dry nitrous earth, in a +direction somewhat at a right angle with the avenue below, we arrived +at the Pine Apple Bush, a large column, composed of a white, soft, +crumbling material, with bifurcations extending from the floor to the +ceiling. At a short distance, either to the right or left, you have a +fine view of the avenue some twenty feet below, both up and down. Why +this crumbling stalactite is called the Pine Apple Bush, I cannot +divine. It stands however in a charming, secluded spot, inviting to +repose; and we luxuriated in inhaling the all-inspiring air, while +reclining on the clean, soft and dry salt petre earth. +</p> + +<p> +All lovers of romantic scenery ought to visit this avenue, and all +dyspeptic hypochondriacs and love-sick despondents should do likewise, +for there is something wonderfully exhilarating in the air of Pensico. +Our friend B. remarked while rolling on the salt petre earth at the +Pine Apple Bush, that he felt "especially happy," and whether from +sympathy, air or what not, we all partook of the same feeling. The +guide seeing the position of our fat friend, and hearing his remark, +said, laughing most immoderately, "these sort of feelings would come +over one, now and then in the Cave, but wait till you get in the +Winding Way and see how you feel then." +</p> + +<p> +Having descended into the avenue we had left, we passed a number of +stalactites and stalagmites, bearing a remarkable resemblance to +coral, and a hundred or more paces beyond, arrived at a recess on the +left, lined with innumerable crystals of dog-tooth spar, shining most +brilliantly, called Angelica's Grotto. One would think it almost +sacrilege to deface a spot like this; yet, did a Clergyman (the back +of the guide being turned,) deliberately demolish a number of +beautiful crystals to inscribe the initials of his name. +</p> + +<p> +Returning to the head of Pensico Avenue, we turned to our right, and +entered the narrow pass which leads to the river, pursuing which, for +a few hundred yards, descending all the while, at one or two places +down a ladder or stone steps, we came to a path cut through a high and +broad embankment of sand, which very soon conducted us to the much +talked of and anxiously looked for Winding Way. The Winding Way, has, +in the opinion of many, been channeled in the rock by the gradual +attrition of water. If this be so, and appearances seem to support +such belief, at what early age of the world did the work commence? Was +it not when "the earth was without form and void," thousands of years +perhaps, before the date of the Mosaic account of the Creation? The +Winding Way is one hundred and five feet long, eighteen inches wide, +and from three to seven feet deep, widening out above, sufficiently to +admit the free use of one's arms. It is throughout tortuous, a perfect +<i>zig-zag</i>, the terror of the Falstaffs and the ladies of "fat, fair +and forty," who have an instinctive dread of the trials to come, and +are well aware of the merriment that their efforts to <i>force a +passage</i> will excite among their companions of less length of girdle. +Into this winding way, we entered in Indian file, and turning our +right side, then our left, twisting this way, then that, had nearly +made good the passage, when our <i>fat friend</i>, who was puffing and +blowing behind us like a high pressure engine, cried out, "Halt, ahead +there! I am stuck as tight as a wedge in a log!" Halt we did, when the +guide, looking at our friend, who was in truth "wedg'd in the rocky +way and sticking fast," cried out, "I told you, when you said at the +Pine Apple Bush, that you felt <i>especially happy</i>, to wait till you +got to the Winding Way, to see how you would feel then!" The +imprisoned gentleman soon burst his bonds, not, however, without +damage to his indispensables; and at length forcing his way into +Relief Hall, he cried out, in the joy of his heart, while stretching +himself and wiping the perspiration from his jolly, rubicund face, +"never was a name more appropriate given to any place—Relief. I feel +already the <i>expansive faculty</i> of the atmosphere, I can now breathe +again." +</p> + +<p> +Relief Hall, which you enter from the Winding Way, at a right-angle, +is very wide and lofty but not long; turning to the right, we reached +its termination at River Hall, a distance of perhaps, one hundred +yards. Here two routes present themselves; the one to the left +conducts to the Dead Sea and the Rivers, and that to the right, to the +Bacon Chamber, the Bandit's Hall, the Mammoth Dome and an infinity of +other caves, domes, etc. We will speak of the Bacon Chamber; but +before doing so, let us take our lunch. The air or exercise, or +probably both, acted as powerful appetizers, and we soon gave proof +that we needed not Stoughton's bitters to provoke an appetite. Having +discussed a few glasses of excellent Hock, we left the Bacon Chamber, +which is a pretty fair representation of a low ceiling, thickly hung +with canvassed hams and shoulders; and proceeded to the Bandit's Hall, +up a steep ascent of twenty or thirty feet, rendered very difficult, +by the huge rocks which obstructed the way and over which we were +forced to clamber. The name is indicative of the spot. It is a vast +and lofty chamber, the floor covered with a mountainous heap of rocks +rising amphitheatrically almost to the ceiling, and so disposed as to +furnish at different elevations, galleries or platforms, reaching +immediately around the chamber itself or leading off into some of its +hidden recesses. The guide is presently seen standing at a fearful +height above, and suddenly a Bengal light, blazes up, "when the rugged +roof, the frowning cliffs and the whole chaos of rocks are refulgent +in the brilliant glare." The sublimity of the scene is beyond the +powers of the imagination. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="viii">CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Mammoth Dome— First Discoverers— Little Dome— Tale +of a Lamp— Return. +</p> + + +<p> +From the Bandit's Hall, diverge two caves; one of which, the left, +leads you to a multitude of domes; and the right, to one which, <i>par +excellence</i>, is called the Mammoth Dome. Taking the right, we arrived, +after a rugged walk of nearly a mile, to a platform, which commands an +indistinct view of this dome of domes. It was discovered by a German +gentleman and the guide Stephen about two years ago, but was not +explored until some months after, when it was visited by a party of +four or five, accompanied by two guides, and well prepared with ropes, +&c. From the platform, the guides were let down about twenty feet, by +means of a rope, and upon reaching the ground below, they found +themselves on the side of a hill, which, descending about fifty feet, +brought them immediately under the Great Dome, from the summit of +which, there is a water-fall. This dome is near four hundred feet +high, and is justly considered one of the most sublime and wonderful +spectacles of this most wonderful of caverns. From the bottom of the +dome they ascended the hill to the place to which they had been +lowered from the platform, and continuing thence up a very steep hill, +more than one hundred feet, they reached its summit. Arrived at the +summit, a scene of awful grandeur and magnificence is presented to the +view. Looking down the declivity, you see far below to the left, the +visiters whom you have left behind, standing on the platform or +termination of the avenue along which they had come; and lower down +still, the bottom of the Great Dome itself. Above, two hundred and +eighty feet, is the ceiling, lost in the obscurity of space and +distance. The height of the ceiling was determined by E.F. Lee, civil +engineer. This fact in regard to the elevation of the ceiling and the +locality of the Great Hall, was subsequently ascertained, by finding +on the summit of the hill, (a spot never before trodden by man,) an +iron lamp!! The astonishment of the guides, as well as of the whole +party, on beholding the lamp, can be easily imagined; and to this day +they would have been ignorant of its history, but for the accidental +circumstance of an old man being at the Cave Hotel, who, thirty years +ago, was engaged as a miner in the saltpetre establishment of Wilkins +& Gratz. He, on being shown the lamp, said at once, that it had been +found under the crevice pit (a fact that surprised all,); that during +the time Wilkins & Gratz were engaged in the manufacture of saltpetre, +a Mr. Gatewood informed Wilkins, that in all probability, the richest +nitre earth was under the crevice pit. The depth of this pit being +then unknown, Wilkins, to ascertain it, got a rope of 45 feet long, +and fastening this identical lamp to the end of it, lowered it into +the pit, in the doing of which, the string caught on fire, and down +fell the lamp. Wilkins made an offer of two dollars to any one of the +miners who would descend the pit and bring up the lamp. His offer was +accepted by a man, who, in consequence of his diminutive stature, was +nicknamed Little Dave; and the rope being made fast about his waist, +he, torch in hand, was lowered to the full extent of the forty-five +feet. Being then drawn up, the poor fellow was found to be so +excessively alarmed, that he could scarcely articulate; but having +recovered from his fright, and again with the full power of utterance, +he declared that no money could tempt him to try again for the lamp; +and in excuse for such a determination, he related the most marvellous +story of what he had seen—far exceeding the wonderful things which +the unexampled Don Quixote de la Mancha declared he had seen in the +deep cave of Montesinos. Dave was, in fact, suspended at the height of +two hundred and forty feet above the level below. Such is the history +of the <i>lamp</i>, as told by the old miner, Holton, the correctness of +which was very soon verified; for guides having been sent to the place +where the lamp was found, and persons at the same time stationed at +the mouth of the crevice pit, their proximity was at once made +manifest by the very audible sound of each other's voices, and by the +fact that sticks thrown into the pit fell at the feet of the guides +below, and were brought out by them. The distance from the mouth of +the Cave to this pit, falls short of half a mile; yet to reach the +grand apartment immediately under it, requires a circuit to be made of +at least three miles. The illumination of that portion of the Great +Dome on the left, and of the hall on the top of the hill to the right, +as seen from the platform, was unquestionably one of the most +impressive spectacles we had witnessed; but to be seen to advantage, +another position ought to be taken by the spectator, and the dome with +its towering height, and the hall on the summit of the hill, with its +gigantic stalagmite columns, and ceiling two hundred feet high, +illuminated by the simultaneous ignition of a number of Bengal lights, +judiciously arranged. Such was the enthusiastic admiration of some +foreigners on witnessing an illumination of the Great Dome and Hall, +that they declared, it alone would compensate for a voyage across the +Atlantic. With the partial illumination of the Great Dome, we closed +our explorations on this side of the rivers, and retracing our steps, +reached the hotel about sun-set. At mid-night, the party which +separated from us at the entrance of Pensico Avenue, returned from the +points beyond the Echo river. +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="ix">CHAPTER IX.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Third Visit— River Hall— Dead Sea— River Styx— +Lethe— Echo River— Purgatory— Eyeless Fish— +Supposed Boil of the Rivers— Sources and Outlet Unknown. +</p> + + +<p> +Early the next morning, having made all the necessary preparations for +the grand tour, which we were the more anxious to take from the +glowing accounts of the party recently returned, we entered the cave +immediately after an early breakfast, and proceeded rapidly on to +River Hall. It was evident from the appearance of the flood here, that +it had been recently overflown. +</p> + +<p> +"The cave, or the River Hall," remarks a fair and distinguished +authoress, whose description of the river scenery is so graphic, that +I cannot do better than transcribe it throughout: "The River Hall +descends like the slope of a mountain; the ceiling stretches +away—away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at midnight." +Going on, and gradually ascending and keeping close to the right hand +wall, you observe on your left "a steep precipice, over which you can +look down by the aid of blazing missiles, upon a broad black sheet of +water, eighty feet below, called the Dead Sea. This is an awfully +impressive place; the sights and sounds of which, do not easily pass +from memory. He who has seen it, will have it vividly brought before +him, by Alfieri's description of Filippo, 'only a transient word or +act gives us a short and dubious glimmer, that reveals to us the +abysses of his being—dark, lurid and terrific, as the throat of the +infernal pool.' Descending from the eminence, by a ladder of about +twenty feet, we find ourselves among piles of gigantic rocks, and one +of the most picturesque sights in the world, is to see a file of men +and women passing along those wild and scraggy paths, moving +slowly—slowly, that their lamps may have time to illuminate their +sky-like ceiling and gigantic walls—disappearing behind high +cliffs—sinking into ravines—their lights shining upwards through +fissures in the rocks—then suddenly emerging from some abrupt angle, +standing in the bright gleam of their lamps, relieved by the towering +black masses around them. He, who could paint the infinite variety of +creation, can alone give an adequate idea of this marvellous region. +As you pass along, you hear the roar of invisible waterfalls; and at +the foot of the slope, the river Styx lies before you, deep and black, +overarched with rock. The first glimpse of it brings to mind, the +descent of Ulysses into hell, +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"Where the dark rock o'erhangs the infernal lake,</p> +<p>And mingling streams eternal murmurs make."</p></div></div> + +<p> +Across (or rather down) these unearthly waters, the guide can convey +but four passengers at once. The lamps are fastened to the prow; the +images of which, are reflected in the dismal pool. If you are +impatient of delay, or eager for new adventures, you can leave your +companions lingering about the shore, and cross the Styx by a +dangerous bridge of precipices overhead. In order to do this, you must +ascend a steep cliff, and enter a cave above, 300 yards long, from an +egress of which, you find yourself on the bank of the river, eighty +feet above its surface, commanding a view of those in the boat, and +those waiting on the shore. Seen from this height, the lamps in the +canoe glare like fiery eye-balls; and the passengers, sitting there so +hushed and motionless, look like shadows. The scene is so strangely +funereal and spectral, that it seems as if the Greeks must have +witnessed it, before they imagined Charon conveying ghosts to the dim +regions of Pluto. Your companions thus seen, do indeed— +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"Skim along the dusky glades,</p> +<p>Thin airy souls, and visionary shades."</p></div></div> + +<p> +If you turn your eyes from the canoe to the parties of men and women +whom you left waiting on the shore, you will see them by the gleam of +their lamps, scattered in picturesque groups, looming out in bold +relief from the dense darkness around them. +</p> + +<p> +Having passed the Styx, (much the smallest of the rivers,) you walk +over a pile of large rocks, and are on the banks of Lethe; and looking +back, you will see a line of men and women descending the high hill +from the cave, which runs <i>over</i> the river Styx. Here are two boats, +and the parties, which have come by the two routes, <i>down</i> the Styx or +<i>over</i> it, uniting, descend the Lethe about a quarter of a mile, the +ceiling for the entire distance being very high—certainly not less +than fifty feet. On landing, you enter a level and lofty hall, called +the Great Walk, which stretches to the banks of the Echo, a distance +of three or four hundred yards. The Echo is truly a river: it is wide +and deep enough, at all times, to float the largest steamer. At the +point of embarkation, the arch is very low, not more than three feet, +in an ordinary stage of water, being left for a boat to pass through. +Passengers, of course, are obliged to double up, and lie upon each +others shoulders, in a most uncomfortable way, but their suffering is +of short duration; in two boat lengths, they emerge to where the vault +of the cave is lofty and wide. The boat in which we embarked was +sufficiently large to carry twelve persons, and our voyage down the +river was one of deep, indeed of most intense interest. The novelty, +the grandeur, the magnificence of every thing around elicited +unbounded admiration and wonder. All sense of danger, (had any been +experienced before,) was lost in the solemn, quiet sublimity of the +scene. The rippling of the water caused by the motion of our boat is +heard afar off, beating under the low arches and in the cavities of +the rocks. The report of a pistol is as that of the heaviest +artillery, and long and afar does the echo resound, like the muttering +of distant thunder. The voice of song was raised on this dark, deep +water, and the sound was as that of the most powerful choir. A fall +band of music on this river of echoes would indeed be overpowering. +The aquatic excursion was more to our taste than any thing we had +seen, and never can the impression it made be obliterated from our +memories. +</p> + +<p> +The Echo is three quarters of a mile long. A rise of the water of +merely a few feet connects the three rivers. After long and heavy +rains, these rivers sometimes rise to a perpendicular height of more +than fifty feet; and then they, as well as the cataracts, exhibit a +most terrific appearance. The low arch at the entrance of the Echo, +can not be passed when there is a rise of water of even two feet. Once +or twice parties have been caught on the further side by a sudden +rise, and for a time their alarm was great, not knowing that there was +an upper cave through which they could pass, that would lead them +around the arch to the Great Walk. This upper cave, or passage, is +called Purgatory, and is, for a distance of forty feet, so low, that +persons have to crawl on their faces, or, as the guides say, <i>snake +it</i>. We were pleased to learn that this passage would soon be +sufficiently enlarged to enable persons to walk through erect. This +accomplished, an excursion to Cleveland's Avenue may be made almost +entirely by land, at the same time that all apprehensions of being +caught beyond Echo will be removed. It is in these rivers, that the +extraordinary white eyeless fish are caught—we secured two of them. +There is not the slightest indication of an organ similar to an eye, +to be discovered. They have been dissected by skillful anatomists, who +declare that they are not only without eyes, but also develope other +anomalies in their organization, singularly interesting to the +naturalist. "The rivers of Mammoth Cave were never crossed till 1840. +Great efforts have been made to discover whence they come and whither +they go, yet they still remain as much a mystery as ever—without +beginning or end; like eternity." +</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"Darkly thou glidest onward,</p> +<p class="i2">Thou deep and hidden wave!</p> +<p>The laughing sunshine hath not look'd</p> +<p class="i2">Into thy secret cave.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>Thy current makes no music—</p> +<p class="i2">A hollow sound we hear;</p> +<p>A muffled voice of mystery,</p> +<p class="i2">And know that thou art near.</p></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<p>No brighter line of verdure</p> +<p class="i2">Follows thy lonely way</p> +<p>No fairy moss, or lily's cup,</p> +<p class="i2">Is freshened by thy play."</p></div></div> + +<p> +According to the barometrical measurement of Professor Locke, the +rivers of the Cave are nearly on a level with Green River; but the +report of Mr. Lee, civil engineer, is widely different. He says, "The +bottom of the Little Bat Room Pit is one hundred and twenty feet +<i>below</i> the bed of Green River. The Bottomless Pit is also deeper than +the bed of Green River, and so far as a surveyor's level can be relied +on, the same may be said of the Cavern Pit and some others." The +rivers of the Cave were unknown at the time of Mr. Lee's visit in +1835, but they are unquestionably <i>lower</i> than the bottom of the pits, +and receive the water which flows from them. According to the +statement of Lee, the bed of these rivers is lower than the bed of +Green River at its junction with the Ohio, taking for granted that the +report of the State engineers as to the extent of fall between a point +above the Cave and the Ohio, be correct, of which there is no doubt. +"It becomes, then," continues Mr. Lee, in reference to the waters of +the Cave, "an object of interesting inquiry to determine in what way +it is disposed of. If it empties into Green River, the Ohio, or the +ocean, it must run a great distance under ground, with a very small +descent." +</p> + + + + +<p class="chapter"> +<a name="x">CHAPTER X.</a> +</p> + +<p class="subjects"> +Pass of El Ghor— Silliman's Avenue— Wellington's +Gallery— Sulphur Spring— Mary's Vineyard— Holy +Sepulchre— Commencement of Cleveland Avenue— By whom +Discovered— Beautiful Formations— Snow-ball Room— +Rocky Mountains— Croghan's Hall— Serena's Arbor— +Dining Table— Dinner Party and Toast— Hoax of the +Guide— Homeward Bound Passage— Conclusion. +</p> + + +<p> +Having now left the Echo, we have a walk of four miles to Cleveland's +Avenue. The intervening points are of great interest; but it would +occupy too much time to describe them. We will therefore hurry on +through the pass of El Ghor, Silliman's Avenue, and Wellington's +Gallery, to the foot of the ladder which leads up to the Elysium of +Mammoth cave. And here, for the benefit of the weary and thirsty, and +of all others whom it may interest, coming after us, be it known, that +Carneal's Spring is close at hand, and equally near, a sulphur spring, +the water of which, equals in quality and quantity that of the +far-famed White Sulphur Spring, of Virginia. At the head of the +ladder, you find yourself surrounded by overhanging stalactites, in +the form of rich clusters of grapes, hard as flint, and round and +polished, as if done by a sculptor's hand. This is called Mary's +Vineyard—the commencement of Cleveland's Avenue, the crowning wonder +and glory of this subterranean world. Proceeding to the right about, a +hundred feet from this spot, over a rough and rather difficult way, +you reach the base of the height or hill, on which, stands the Holy +Sepulchre. This interesting spot is reached at some hazard, as the +ascent, which is very steep, and more than twenty feet high, affords +no secure footing, owing to the loose and shingly character of the +surface, until the height is gained. Having achieved this, you stand +immediately at the beautiful door-way of the Chapel, or anteroom of +the Sepulchre. This Chapel, which is, perhaps, twelve feet square, +with a low ceiling, and decorated in the most gorgeous manner, with +well-arranged draperies of stalactite of every imaginable shape, leads +you to the room of the Holy Sepulchre adjoining, which is without +ornament or decoration of any kind; exhibiting nothing but dark and +bare walls—like a charnel house. In the centre of this room, which +stands a few feet below the Chapel, is, to all appearance, a grave, +hewn out of the living rock. This is the Holy Sepulchre. A Roman +Catholic priest discovered it about three years ago, and with fervent +enthusiasm exclaimed, "The Holy Sepulchre!" a name which it has since +borne. Returning from the Holy Sepulchre, we commence our wanderings +through Cleveland's Avenue—an avenue three miles long, seventy feet +wide, and twelve or fifteen feet high—an avenue more rich and +gorgeous than any ever revealed to man—an avenue abounding in +formations such as are no where else to be seen, and which the most +stupid observer could not behold without feelings of wonder and +admiration. Some of the formations in the avenue, have been +denominated by Professor Locke, oulophilites, or curled leafed stone; +and in remarking upon them, he says, "They are unlike any thing yet +discovered; equally beautiful for the cabinet of the amateur, and +interesting to the geological philosopher." And I, although a wanderer +myself in various climes, and somewhat of a mineralogist withal, have +never seen or heard of such. Apprehensive that I might, in attempting +to describe much that I have seen, color too highly, I will, in lieu +thereof, offer the remarks of an intelligent clergyman, extracted from +the New York Christian Observer, of a recent date: "The most +imaginative poet never conceived or painted a palace of such exquisite +beauty and loveliness, as Cleveland's Cabinet, into which you now +pass. Were the wealth of princes bestowed on the most skilful +lapidaries, with the view of rivaling the splendors of this single +chamber, the attempt would be vain. How then can I hope to give you a +conception of it? You must see it; and you will then feel that all +attempt at description, is futile." The Cabinet was discovered by Mr. +Patten, of Louisville, and Mr. Craig, of Philadelphia, accompanied by +the guide Stephen, and extends in nearly a direct line about one and a +half miles, (the guides say two miles.) It is a perfect arch, of fifty +feet span, and of an average height of ten feet in the centre—just +high enough to be viewed with ease in all its parts. It is incrusted +from end to end with the most beautiful formations, in every variety +of form. The base of the whole, is carbonate (sulphate) of lime, in +part of dazzling whiteness, and perfectly smooth, and in other places +crystallized so as to glitter like diamonds in the light. Growing from +this, in endlessly diversified forms, is a substance resembling +selenite, translucent and imperfectly laminated. It is most probably +sulphate of lime, (a gypsum,) combined with sulphate of magnesia. Some +of the crystals bear a striking resemblance to branches of celery, and +all about the same length; while others, a foot or more in length, +have the color and appearance of <i>vanilla cream candy</i>; others are set +in sulphate of lime, in the form of a rose; and others still roll out +from the base, in forms resembling the ornaments on the capitol of a +Corinthian column. (You see how I am driven for analogies.) Some of +the incrustations are massive and splendid; others are as delicate as +the lily, or as fancy-work of shell or wax. Think of traversing an +arched way like this for a mile and a half, and all the wonders of the +tales of youth—"Arabian Nights," and all—seem tame, compared with +the living, growing reality. Yes, <i>growing</i> reality; for the process +is going on before your eyes. Successive coats of these incrustations, +have been perfected and crowded off by others; so that hundreds of +tons of these gems lie at your feet, and are crushed as you pass, +while the work of restoring the ornaments for nature's <i>boudoir</i>, is +proceeding around you. Here and there, through the whole extent, you +will find openings in the sides, into which you may thrust the person, +and often stand erect in little grottoes, perfectly incrusted with a +delicate white substance, reflecting the light from a thousand +glittering points. All the way you might have heard us exclaiming, +"Wonderful, wonderful! O, Lord, how manifold are thy works!" With +general unity of form and appearance, there is considerable variety in +"the Cabinet." The "<i>Snow-ball Room</i>," for example, is a section of +the cave described above, some 200 feet in length, entirely different +from the adjacent parts; its appearance being aptly indicated by its +name. If a hundred rude school boys had but an hour before completed +their day's sport, by throwing a thousand snow-balls against the roof, +while an equal number were scattered about the floor, and all +petrified, it would have presented precisely such a scene as you +witness in this room of nature's frolics. So far as I know, these +"snow-balls" are a perfect anomaly among all the strange forms of +crystalization. It is the result, I presume, of an unusual combination +of the sulphates of lime and magnesia, with a carbonate of the former. +We found here and elsewhere in the Cabinet, fine specimens of the +sulphate of Magnesia, (or Epsom salts,) a foot or two long, and three +inches in thickness. +</p> + +<p> +Leaving the quiet and beautiful "Cabinet," you come suddenly upon the +"Rocky Mountains," furnishing a contrast so bold and striking, as +almost to startle you. Clambering up the rough side some thirty feet, +you pass close under the roof of the cavern you have left, and find +before you an immense transverse cave, 100 feet or more from the +ceiling to the floor, with a huge pile of rocks half filling the +hither side—they were probably dashed from the roof in the great +earthquake of 1811. Taking the left hand branch, you are soon brought +to "Croghan's Hall," which is nine miles from the mouth, and is the +farthest point explored in that direction. The "Hall" is 50 or 60 feet +in diameter, and perhaps, thirty-five feet high, of a semi-circular +form. Fronting you as you enter, are massive stalactites, ten or +fifteen feet in length, attached to the rock, like sheets of ice, and +of a brilliant color. The rock projects near the floor, and then +recedes with a regular and graceful curve, or swell, leaving a cavity +of several feet in width between it and the floor. At intervals, +around this swell, stalactites of various forms are suspended, and +behind the sheet of stalactites first described, are numerous +stalagmites, in fanciful forms. I brought one away that resembles the +horns of the deer, being nearly translucent. In the centre of this +hall, a very large stalactite hangs from the roof; and a corresponding +stalagmite rises from the floor, about three feet in height and a foot +in diameter, of an amber color, perfectly smooth and translucent, like +the other formations. On the right, is a deep pit, down which the +water dashes from a cascade that pours from the roof. Other avenues +could most likely be found by sounding the sides of the pit, if any +one had the courage to attempt the descent. We are far enough from +<i>terra supra</i>, and our dinner which we had left at the "Vineyard." We +hastened back to the Rocky Mountains, and took the branch which we +left at our right on emerging from the Cabinet. Pursuing the uneven +path for some distance, we reached "Serena's Arbor," which was +discovered but three months since, by our guide "Mat." The descent to +the Arbor seemed so perilous, from the position of the loose rocks +around, that several of the party would not venture. Those of us who +scrambled down regarded this as the crowning object of interest. The +"Arbor" is not more than twelve feet in diameter, and of about the +same height, of a circular form; but is, of itself, floor, sides, +roof, and ornaments, one perfect, seamless stalactite, of a beautiful +hue, and exquisite workmanship. Folds or blades of stalactitic matter +hang like drapery around the sides, reaching half way to the floor; +and opposite the door, a canopy of stone projects, elegantly +ornamented, as if it were the resting-place of a fairy bride. Every +thing seemed fresh and new; indeed, the invisible architect has not +quite finished this master-piece; for you can see the pure water, +trickling down its tiny channels and perfecting the delicate points of +some of the stalactites. Victoria, with all her splendor, has not in +Windsor Castle, so beautiful an apartment as "Serena's Arbor." +</p> + +<p> +Such is the description of Cleveland's Avenue, as given by this +clerical gentleman. It is perfectly graphic, and corresponds with all +the glowing accounts I have read of this famous place. Exquisitely +beautiful and rare as are the formations in this avenue, it will soon +be, I fear, like the Grotto of Pensico—shorn of its beauties. Many a +little Miss, to decorate her centre table or boudoir, and many a +thoughtless dandy to present a specimen to his lady fair, have broken +from the walls (regardless of the published rules prohibiting it,) +those lovely productions of the Almighty, which required ages to +perfect; thus destroying in a moment the work of centuries. These +beautiful and gorgeous formations were encrusted on the walls by the +hands of our Maker, and who so impious as to desecrate them—to tear +them from their place? there they are, all lovely and beautiful, and +there they ought to remain, <i>untouched</i> by the hands of man, for the +admiration and wonder of all future ages. If the comparatively small +cave of Adelburg which belongs to the Emperor of Austria, be placed +for the preservation of its formations under the protecting care of +the government [Transcriber's note: sic] (as is the case,) what ought not to be done to preserve +the mineralogical treasures, in this great Cave of America, and +especially in Cleveland's Cabinet, which are worth more than all the +caves in Europe, indeed of the world, so far as our knowledge of +caverns extends. +</p> + +<p> +Returning from Serena's Arbor, we passed on our left the mouth of an +avenue more than three miles long, lofty and wide, and at its +termination there is a hall, which in the opinion of the guide is +larger than any other in the Cave. It is as yet without a name. +Equidistant from the commencement and the termination of Cleveland's +Avenue, is a huge rock, nearly circular, flat on the top and three +feet high. This is the "<i>dining table</i>." More than one hundred persons +could be seated around this table; on it the guide arranged our +dinner, and we luxuriated on "flesh and fowl" and "choice old sherry." +Never did a set of fellows enjoy dinner more than we did ours. Our +friend B. was perfectly at his ease and happy; and, in the exuberance +of his spirits, proposed the following toast: +</p> + +<p class="quote"> + "Prosperity to the subterranean territory of Cimmeria; large + enough, if not populous enough, for admission into the Union as + an independent State." +</p> + +<p> +We emptied our glasses and gave nine hearty cheers in honor of the +sentiment. A proposition was made to adjourn, but B. was not inclined +to locomotion, and opposed it with great warmth, insisting that it was +too soon to move after such a dinner, and that a state of rest was +absolutely essential to healthy digestion. We had much argument on the +motion to adjourn; when our sagacious guide Stephen, with a meaning +look interposed, saying "we had as well be going, for the river might +take a rise and shut us up here." "What!" exclaimed B. in utter +consternation, and with a start, literally bouncing from his seat, +cried aloud "Let's be off!" at the same time suiting the action to the +word. In a second we were all in motion, and hurrying past beautiful +incrustations, through galleries long and tortuous, down one hill and +up another, (poor B. puffing and blowing, and all the while exclaiming +against the <i>terrible</i> length and ruggedness of the way,) we at last +reached the Echo, which we found to our great relief had <i>not risen</i>. +It seems, the guide had used this stratagem for our own advantage, to +break off our banquet, lest it trenched too far upon the night. We +were too happy in having our fears relieved, to fall out with him. On +our homeward bound passage over the rivers, our admiration was rather +increased than diminished. The death-like stillness! the awful +silence! the wild grandeur and sublimity of the scene, tranquilizing +the feeling and disposing to pensive musings and quiet contemplation; +on a sudden a pistol is fired—a tremendous report ensues—its echoes +are heard reverberating from wall to wall, in caves far away, like the +low murmuring sound of distant thunder—the spell of silence and deep +reverie is broken—we become roused and animated, and the mighty +cavern resounds with our song. We believe every one will, under +similar circumstances, experience this sudden transition from pensive +musings to joyous hilarity. Leaving the rivers, we hastened onward to +the outlet to the upper world. Far ahead we perceive the first +<i>dawnings of day</i>, shining with a silvery pallid hue on the walls, and +increasing in brightness as we advance, until it bursts forth in all +the golden rays and glorious effulgence of the setting sun. This +<i>parting</i> scene is lovely and interesting. We bid adieu to the "Great +Monarch of Caves." We here terminate our subterranean tour. Standing +on the grassy terrace above, we inhale the cool, pure air, and take a +last look at the "great Wonder of Wonders!" To all we would say "go +and see—explore the greatest of the Almighty's subterranean works." +No description can give you an idea of it—neither can inspection of +other caves; it is "the Monarch of Caves!" none that have ever been +measured can at all compare with it, in extent, in grandeur, in wild, +solemn, serene, unadorned majesty; it stands entirely alone.—"<a name="101"> +It has +no brother; it has no brother."</a> +</p> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during +the Year 1844, by Alexander Clark Bullitt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + +***** This file should be named 16220-h.htm or 16220-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/2/16220/ + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during the Year 1844 + By a Visiter + +Author: Alexander Clark Bullitt + +Release Date: July 6, 2005 [EBook #16220] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + + + + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + +RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE, + +DURING THE YEAR 1844, + +BY A VISITER. + + + +By + +Alexander Clark Bullitt + + + +LOUISVILLE, KY.: +MORTON & GRISWOLD. +1845. + +Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by +MORTON & GRISWOLD, +in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Kentucky. + +Printed by MORTON & GRISWOLD. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Page 11th, fifth line from the bottom; for _faltering_, read pattering. + +Page 46th, eighth line from the top--"They are well furnished, and, +without question, _would with_ good and comfortable accommodations, +pure air, and uniform temperature, cure the pulmonary consumption. +_The_ invalids in the Cave ought to be cured, &c.," + + _read_, + +They are well furnished, and, without question, _if_ good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air, and uniform temperature, _could_ +cure the pulmonary consumption, _the_ invalids in the Cave ought to be +cured. + +Page 101, last line: read, "It has no brother: it _is like_ no brother." + + + + +PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT. + + +To meet the calls so frequently made upon as by intelligent visitors +to our City, for some work descriptive of the Mammoth Cave, we are, at +length, enabled to present the public a succinct, but instructive +narrative of a visit to this "Wonder of Wonders," from the pen of a +gentleman, who, without professing to have explored ALL that is +curious or beautiful or sublime in its vast recesses, has yet seen +every thing that has been seen by others, and has described enough to +quicken and enlighten the curiosity of those who have never visited +it. + +Aware of the embarrassment which most persons experience who design +visiting the Cave, owing to the absence of any printed itinerary of +the various routes leading to it, we have supplied, in the present +volume, this desideratum, from information received from reliable +persons residing on the different roads here enumerated. The road from +Louisville to the Cave, and thence to Nashville, is graded the entire +distance, and the greater part of it M'Adamized. From Louisville to +the mouth of Salt river, twenty miles, the country is level, with a +rich alluvial soil, probably at some former period the bed of a lake. +A few miles below the former place and extending to the latter, a +chain of elevated hills is seen to the South-East, affording beautiful +and picturesque situations for country seats, and strangely overlooked +by the rich and tasteful. The river is crossed by a ferry, and the +traveler is put down at a comfortable inn in the village of West +Point. Two miles from the mouth of Salt river, begins the ascent of +Muldrow's Hill. The road is excellent, and having elevated hills on +either side, is highly romantic to its summit, five miles. From the +top of this hill to Elizabethtown, the country is well settled, though +the improvements are generally indifferent--the soil thin, but well +adapted to small-grain, and oak the prevailing growth. Elizabethtown, +twenty-five miles from the mouth of Salt river, is quite a pretty and +flourishing village, built chiefly of brick, with several churches and +three large inns. From this place to Nolin creek, the distance is ten +miles. Here there is a small town, containing some ten or twelve log +houses, a large saw and grist mill, and a comfortable and very neat +inn, kept by Mr. Mosher. Immediately after crossing this creek, the +traveler enters "Yankee Street," as the inhabitants style this section +of the road. For a distance of ten or twelve miles from Nolin toward +Bacon creek, the land belongs, or did belong to the former Postmaster +General, Gideon Granger, and on either side of the road, to the extent +of Mr. G.'s possessions, are settlements made by emigrants from New +York and the New England States. From Bacon creek to Munfordsville, +eight miles, the country is pleasantly undulating, and here, indeed +the whole route from Elizabethtown to the Cave, passes through what +was until recently a Prairie, or, in the language of the country, +"Barrens," and renders it highly interesting, especially to the +botanist, from the multitude and variety of flowers with which it +abounds during the Spring and Autumn months. Munfordsville, and +Woodsonville directly opposite, are situated on Green river, on high +and broken ground. They are small places, in each of which, however, +are comfortable inns. Boats laden with tobacco and other produce, +descend from this point and from a considerable distance above, to New +Orleans. About two and a half miles beyond Munfordsville, the new +State road to the Cave, (virtually made by Dr. Croghan, at a great +expense,) leaves the Turnpike, and joins it again at the Dripping +Springs, eight miles below, on the route to Nashville. This road, in +going from Louisville to Nashville, is not only the shortest by three +and a half miles, but to the Cave it is from ten to twelve miles +shorter than the one taken by visiters previous to its construction. +It therefore lessens the inconvenience, delay and consequent expense +to which travelers were formerly subjected. The road itself is an +excellent one, the country through which it passes highly picturesque, +and Dr. Croghan has entitled himself to the gratitude of the traveling +community by his liberality and enterprise in constructing it. + +Persons visiting the Cave by Steamer, (a boat leaves Louisville for +Bowling-Green every week) will find much to interest them in the +admirable locks and dams, rendering the navigation of Green river safe +and good at all seasons for boats of a large class. Passengers can +obtain conveyances at all times and at moderate rates, from +Bowling-Green, by the Dripping Spring, to the Cave, distant twenty-two +miles. Fifteen miles of this road is M'Adamized, the remainder is +graded and not inferior to the finished portion. The last eight miles +from the Dripping Spring to the Cave, cannot fail to excite the +admiration of every one who delights in beholding wild and beautiful +scenery. A visit to the Cedar Springs on this route, is alone worth a +journey of many miles. Passengers on the upper turnpike, from +Bardstown to Nashville, can, on reaching Glasgow, at all times procure +conveyances to the Cave, either by Bell's or by Prewett's Knob. + +Arrived at the Cave, the visitor alights at a spacious hotel, the +general arrangements, attendance and _cuisine_ of which, are adapted +to the most fastidious taste. He feels that as far as the "creature +comforts" are necessary to enjoyment, the prospect is full of promise; +nor will he be disappointed. And now, this first and most important +preliminary to a traveler settled to his perfect content, he may +remain for weeks and experience daily gratification, "_Stephen_ his +guide," in wandering through some of its two hundred and twenty-six +avenues--in gazing, until he is oppressed with the feeling of their +magnificence, at some of its forty-seven domes,--in listening, +until their drowsy murmurs pain the sense, to some of its many +water-falls,--or haply intent upon discovery, he hails some new vista, +or fretted roof, or secret river, or unsounded lake, or crystal +fountain, with as much rapture as Balboa, from "that peak in Darien," +gazed on the Pacific; he is assured that he "has a poet," and an +historian too. Stephen has linked his name to dome, or avenue, or +river, and it is already immortal--in the Cave. + +Independent of the attractions to be found in the Cave, there is much +above ground to gratify the different tastes of visiters. There is a +capacious ball-room, ninety feet by thirty, with a fine band of +music,--a ten-pin alley,--romantic walks and carriage-drives in all +directions, rendered easy of access by the fine road recently +finished. The many rare and beautiful flowers in the immediate +vicinity of the Cave, invite to exercise, and bouquets as exquisite as +were ever culled in garden or green-house, may be obtained even as +late as August. The fine sport the neighborhood affords to the hunter +and the angler--Green river, just at hand, offers such "store of +fish," as father Walton or his son and disciple Cotton, were they +alive again, would love to meditate and angle in!--and the woods! +Capt. Scott or Christopher North himself, might grow weary of the +sight of game, winged or quadruped. + + + + +INTERESTING FACTS. + + + 1. Accidents of no kind have ever occurred in the Mammoth Cave. + + 2. Visiters, going in or coming out of the Cave, are not liable to +contract colds; on the contrary, colds are commonly relieved by a +visit in the Cave. + + 3. No impure air exists in any part of the Cave. + + 4. Reptiles, of no description, have ever been seen in the Cave; on +the contrary, they, as well as quadrupeds, avoid it. + + 5. Combustion is perfect in all parts of the Cave. + + 6. Decomposition and consequent putrefaction are unobservable in all +parts of the Cave. + + 7. The water of the Cave is of the purest kind; and, besides fresh +water, there are one or two sulphur springs. + + 8. There are two hundred and twenty-six Avenues in the Cave; +forty-seven Domes; eight Cataracts, and twenty-three Pits. + + 9. The temperature of the Cave is 59 deg. Fahrenheit, and remains so, +uniformly, winter and Summer. + +10. No sound, not even the loudest peal of thunder, is heard one +quarter of a mile in the Cave. + + * * * * * + +The author of "Rambles in the Mammoth Cave," has written a scientific +account of the Cave, embracing its Geology, Mineralogy, etc., which we +could not, in time, insert in this publication. + + + + +TABLE OF DISTANCES. + + +FROM LOUISVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Medley's 10 miles. +Mouth Salt River 10 +Trueman's 8 +Haycraft's 7 +Elizabethtown 9 +Nolin 9 +Lucas 11 +Munfordsville 10 +Mammoth Cave 14-1/2 + ------ + 88-1/2 miles. + + +FROM LEXINGTON TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Harrodsburgh 20 miles. +Perryville 10 +Frosts 12 +Young 4 +Lebanon 7 +New Market 12 +Barbee 6 +Somerville 3 +Carters 5 +Moss 5 +Mitchell 12 +Curls 7 +Greens 10 +Dickeys 8 +Mammoth Cave 9 + --- + 130 miles. + + +FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via + +Dickeys 18 miles. + + +FROM NASHVILLE TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +Gees 9 miles. +Tyree Springs 13 +Buntons 12 +Franklin 10 +Bowling Green 20 +Pattersons 12 +Dripping Springs 3 +Mammoth Cave 8 + -- + 87 miles. + + +FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE. + +New Haven 15 miles. +McDougals 10 +McAchran (Cobb's stand) 12 +Bear Wallow 20 +Dickeys (Prewett's Knob) 7 +Mammoth Cave 9 + -- + 73 miles. + + +FROM BARDSTOWN TO MAMMOTH CAVE, +via. MUNFORDSVILLE. + +McAchran (Cobb's stand) 37 miles. +Munfordsville 12 +Mammoth Cave 14-1/2 + ------ + 63-1/2 miles. + + +FROM GLASGOW TO MAMMOTH CAVE, via. + +Bells 18 miles. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Mammoth Cave--Where Situated--Green River--Improved Navigation--Range +of Highlands--Beautiful Woodlands--Hotel--Romantic Dell--Mouth of the +Cave--Coldness of the Air--Lamps Lighted--Bones of a Giant--Violence +of the Wind--Lamps Extinguished--Temperature of the Cave--Lamps +Relighted--First Hopper--Grand Vestibule--Glowing Description--Audubon +Avenue--Little Bat Room--Pit two hundred and eighty feet deep--Main +Cave--Kentucky Cliffs--The Church Second Hopper--Extent of the +Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. + +CHAPTER II. + +Gothic Gallery--Gothic Avenue--Good Road--Mummies--Interesting +Account of Them--Gothic Avenue, once called Haunted Chamber--Why so +named--Adventure of a Miner in former days. + +CHAPTER III. + +Stalagmite Pillars--The Bell--Vulcan's Furnace--Register Rooms-- +Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel--Devil's Arm-Chair--Elephant's +Head--Lover's Leap--Napoleon's Dome--Salts Cave--Annetti's Dome. + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Ball-Room--Willie's Spring--Wandering Willie--Ox-Stalls--Giant's +Coffin--Acute-Angle or Great Bend--Range of Cabins--Curative Properties +of the Cave Air long known. + +CHAPTER V. + +Star Chamber--Salts Room--Indian Houses--Cross Rooms--Black Chambers--A +Dinner Party--Humble Chute--Solitary Cave--Fairy Grotto--Chief City or +Temple--Lee's Description--Return to the Hotel. + +CHAPTER VI. + +Arrival of a large Party--Second Visit--Lamps Extinguished--Laughable +Confusion--Wooden Bowl--Deserted Chambers--Richardson's +Spring--Side-Saddle Fit--The Labyrinth--Louisa's Dome--Gorin's +Dome--Bottomless Fit--Separation of our Party. + +CHAPTER VII. + +Pensico Avenue--Cheat Crossings--Pine Apple Bush--Angelica's Grotto +Winding Way--Fat Friend in Trouble--Relief Hall--Bacon Chamber +Bandits Hall. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Mammoth Dome--First Discoverers--Little Dave--Tale of a Lamp--Return. + +CHAPTER IX. + +Third Visit--River Hall--Dead Sea--River Styx--Lethe--Echo +River--Purgatory--Eyeless Fish--Supposed Level of the Rivers--Sources +and Outlet Unknown. + +CHAPTER X. + +Pass of El Ghor--Silliman's Avenue--Wellington's Gallery--Sulphur +Spring--Mary's Vineyard--Holy Sepulchre--Commencement of Cleveland +Avenue--By whom Discovered--Beautiful Formations--Snow-ball +Room--Rocky Mountains--Croghan's Hall--Serena's Arbor--Dining +Table--Dinner Party and Toast--Hoax of the Guide--Homeward +Bound Passage--Conclusion. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Mammoth Cave--Where Situated--Green River--Improved Navigation--Range of +Highlands--Beautiful Woodlands--Hotel--Romantic Dell--Mouth of the +Cave--Coldness of the Air--Lamps Lighted--Bones of a Giant--Violence +of the Wind--Lamps Extinguished--Temperature of the Cave--Lamps +Lighted--First Hoppers--Grand Vestibule--Glowing Description--Audubon +Avenue--Little Bat Room--Pit Two-Hundred and Eighty Feet Deep--Main +Cave--Kentucky Cliffs--The Church--Second Hoppers--Extent of the +Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814. + + +The Mammoth Cave is situated in the County of Edmondson and State of +Kentucky, equidistant from the cities of Louisville and Nashville, +(about ninety miles from each,) and immediately upon the nearest road +between those two places. Green River is within half a mile of the +Cave, and since the improvements in its navigation, by the +construction of locks and dams, steam-boats can, at all seasons, +ascend to Bowling Green, distant but twenty-two miles, and, for the +greater part of the year, to the Cave itself. + +In going to the Cave from Munfordsville, you will observe a lofty +range of barren highlands to the North, which approaches nearer and +nearer the Cave as you advance, until it reaches to within a mile of +it. This range of highlands or cliffs, composed of calcareous rock, +pursuing its rectilinear course, is seen the greater part of the way +as you proceed on towards Bowling Green; and, at last, looses itself +in the counties below. Under this extensive range of cliffs it is +conjectured that the great subterranean territory mainly extends +itself. + +For a distance of two miles from the Cave, as you approach it from the +South-East, the country is level. It was, until recently, a prairie, +on which, however, the oak, chestnut and hickory are now growing; and +having no underbrush, its smooth, verdant openings present, here and +there, no unapt resemblance to the parks of the English nobility. + +Emerging from these beautiful woodlands, you suddenly have a view of +the hotel and adjacent grounds, which is truly lovely and picturesque. +The hotel is a large edifice, two hundred feet long by forty-five +wide, with piazzas, sixteen feet wide, extending the whole length of +the building, both above and below, well furnished, and kept in a +style, by Mr. Miller, that cannot fail to please the most fastidious +epicure. + +The Cave is about two-hundred yards from the hotel, and you proceed to +it down a lovely and romantic dell, rendered umbrageous by a forest of +trees and grape vines; and passing by the ruins of saltpetre furnaces +and large mounds of ashes, you turn abruptly to the right and behold +the mouth of the great cavern and as suddenly feel the coldness of its +air. + +It is an appalling spectacle,--how dark, how dismal, how dreary. +Descending some thirty feet down rather rude steps of stone, you are +fairly under the arch of this "nether world"--before you, in looking +outwards, is seen a small stream of water falling from the face of the +crowning rock, with a wild faltering sound, upon the ruins below, and +disappearing in a deep pit,--behind you, all is gloom and darkness! + +Let us now follow the guide--who, placing on his back a canteen of +oil, lights the lamps, and giving one to each person, we commence our +subterranean journey; having determined to confine ourselves, for this +day, to an examination of _some_ of the avenues on this side of the +rivers, and to resume, on a future occasion, our visit to the fairy +scenes beyond. I emphasize the word _some_ of the avenues, because no +visitor has ever yet seen one in twenty; and, although I shall attempt +to describe only a few of them, and in so doing will endeavor to +represent things as I saw them, and as they impressed me, I am not the +less apprehensive that my descriptions will appear as unbounded +exaggerations, so wonderfully vast is the Cave, so singular its +formations, and so unique its characteristics. + +At the place where our lamps were lighted, are to be seen the wooden +pipes which conducted the water, as it fell from the ceiling, to the +vats or saltpetre hoppers; and near this spot too, are interred the +bones of a _giant_, of such vast size is the skeleton, at least of +such portions of it as remain. With regard to this giant, or more +properly skeleton, it may be well to state, that it was found by the +saltpetre workers far within the Cave years ago, and was buried by +their employer where it now lies, to quiet their superstitious fears, +not however before it was bereft of its head by some fearless +antiquary. + +Proceeding onward about one-hundred feet, we reached a door, set in a +rough stone wall, stretched across and completely blocking up the +Cave; which was no sooner opened, than our lamps were extinguished by +the violence of the wind rushing outwards. An accurate estimate of the +external temperature, may at any time, be made, by noting the force of +the wind as it blows inward or outward. When it is very warm without, +the wind blows outwards with violence; but when cold, it blows inwards +with proportionate force. The temperature of the Cave, (winter and +summer,) is invariably the same--59 deg. Fahrenheit; and its atmosphere is +perfectly uniform, dry, and of most extraordinary salubrity. + +Our lamps being relighted, we soon reached a narrow passage faced on +the left side by a wall, built by the miners to confine the loose +stone thrown up in the course of their operations, when gradually +descending a short distance, we entered the great vestibule or +ante-chamber of the Cave. What do we now see? Midnight!--the +blackness of darkness!--Nothing! Where is the wall we were lately +elbowing out of the way? It has vanished!--It is lost! We are walled +in by darkness, and darkness canopies us above. Look again;--Swing +your torches aloft! Aye, now you can see it; far up, a hundred feet +above your head, a grey ceiling rolling dimly away like a cloud, and +heavy buttresses, bending under the weight, curling and toppling over +their base, begin to project their enormous masses from the shadowy +wall. How vast! How solemn! How awful! The little bells of the brain +are ringing in your ears; you hear nothing else--not even a sigh of +air--not even the echo of a drop of water falling from the roof. The +guide triumphs in your look of amazement and awe; he falls to work on +certain old wooden ruins, to you, yet invisible, and builds a brace or +two of fires, by the aid of which you begin to have a better +conception of the scene around you. You are in the vestibule or +ante-chamber, to which the spacious entrance of the Cave, and the +narrow passage that succeeds it, should be considered the mere +gate-way and covered approach. It is a basilica of an oval +figure--two-hundred feet in length by one-hundred and fifty wide, with +a roof which is as flat and level as if finished by the trowel of the +plasterer, of fifty or sixty or even more feet in height. Two +passages, each a hundred feet in width, open into it at its opposite +extremities, but at right angles to each other; and as they preserve a +straight course for five or six-hundred feet, with the same flat roof +common to each, the appearance to the eye, is that of a vast hall in +the shape of the letter L expanded at the angle, both branches being +five-hundred feet long by one-hundred wide. The passage to the right +hand is the "Great Bat Room;" (Audubon Avenue.) That in the front, the +beginning of the Grand Gallery, or the Main Cavern itself. The whole +of this prodigious space is covered by a single rock, in which the eye +can detect no break or interruption, save at its borders, where is a +broad, sweeping cornice, traced in horizontal panel-work, exceedingly +noble and regular; and not a single pier or pillar of any kind +contributes to support it. It needs no support. It is like the arched +and ponderous roof of the poet's mausoleum: + + "By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable." + +The floor is very irregularly broken, consisting of vast heaps of the +nitrous earth, and of the ruins of the hoppers or vats, composed of +heavy planking, in which the miners were accustomed to leach it. The +hall was, in fact, one of their chief factory rooms. Before their day, +it was a cemetery; and here they disinterred many a mouldering +skeleton, belonging it seems, to that gigantic eight or nine feet race +of men of past days, whose jaw-bones so many vivacious persons have +clapped over their own, like horse-collars, without laying by a single +one to convince the soul of scepticism. + +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave,--a hall which hundreds of +visitors have passed through without being conscious of its existence. +The path, leading into the Grand Gallery, hugs the wall on the left +hand; and is, besides, in a hollow, flanked on the right hand by lofty +mounds of earth, which the visitor, if he looks at them at all, which +he will scarcely do, at so early a period after entering, will readily +suppose to be the opposite walls. Those who enter the Great Bat Room, +(Audubon Avenue,) into which flying visitors are seldom conducted, +will indeed have some faint suspicion, for a moment, that they are +passing through infinite space; but the walls of the Cave being so +dark as to reflect not one single ray of light from the dim torches, +and a greater number of them being necessary to disperse the gloom +than are usually employed, they will still remain in ignorance of the +grandeur around them. + +Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave, as described by the +ingenious author of "Calavar," "Peter Pilgrim," &c. + +From the vestibule we entered Audubon Avenue, which is more than a +mile long, fifty or sixty feet wide and as many high. The roof or +ceiling exhibits, as you walk along, the appearance of floating +clouds--and such is observable in many other parts of the Cave. Near +the termination of this avenue, a natural well, twenty-five feet deep, +and containing the purest water, has been recently discovered; it is +surrounded by stalagmite columns, extending from the floor to the +roof, upon the incrustations of which, when lights are suspended, the +reflection from the water below and the various objects above and +around, gives to the whole scene an appearance equally rare and +picturesque. This spot, however, being difficult of access, is but +seldom visited. + +The Little Bat Room Cave--a branch of Audubon Avenue,--is on the left +as you advance, and not more than three-hundred yards from the great +vestibule. It is but little more than a quarter of a mile in length, +and is remarkable for its pit of two-hundred and eighty feet in depth; +and as being the hibernal resort of bats. Tens of thousands of them +are seen hanging from the walls, in apparently a torpid state, during +the winter, but no sooner does the spring open, than they disappear. + +Returning from the Little Bat Room and Audubon Avenue, we pass again +through the vestibule, and enter the Main Cave or Grand Gallery. This +is a vast tunnel extending for miles, averaging throughout, fifty feet +in width by as many in height It is truly a noble subterranean avenue; +the largest of which man has any knowledge, and replete with interest, +from its varied characteristics and majestic grandeur. + +Proceeding down the main Cave about a quarter of a mile, we came to +the Kentucky Cliffs, so called from the fancied resemblance to the +cliffs on the Kentucky River, and descending gradually about twenty +feet entered the church, when our guide was discovered in the _pulpit_ +fifteen feet above us, having reached there by a gallery which leads +from the cliffs. The ceiling here is sixty three feet high, and the +church itself, including the recess, cannot be less than one hundred +feet in diameter. Eight or ten feet above and immediately behind the +pulpit, is the organ loft, which is sufficiently capacious for an. +organ and choir of the largest size. There would appear to be +something like design in all this;--here is a church large enough to +accomodate thousands, a solid projection of the wall of the Cave to +serve as a pulpit, and a few feet back a place for an organ and choir. +In this great temple of nature, religious service has been frequently +held, and it requires but a slight effort on the part of a speaker, to +make himself distinctly heard by the largest congregation. + +Sometimes the guides climb up the high and ragged sides, and suspend +lamps in the crevices and on the projections of the rock, thus +lighting up a scene of wild grandeur and sublimity. + +Concerts too have been held here, and the melody of song has been +heard, such as would delight the ear of a Catalini or a Malibran. + +Leaving the church you will observe, on ascending, a large embankment +of lixiviated earth thrown out by the miners more than thirty years +ago, the print of wagon wheels and the tracks of oxen, as distinctly +defined as though they were made but yesterday; and continuing on for +a short distance, you arrive at the Second Hoppers. Here are seen the +ruins of the old nitre works, leaching vats, pump frames and two lines +of wooden pipes; one to lead fresh water from the dripping spring to +the vats filled with the nitrous earth, and the other to convey the +lye drawn from the large reservoir, back to the furnace at the mouth +of the Cave. + +The quantity of nitrous earth contained in the Cave is "sufficient to +supply the whole population of the globe with saltpetre." + +"The dirt gives from three to five pounds of nitrate of lime to the +bushel, requiring a large proportion of fixed alkali to produce the +required crystalization, and when left in the Cave become +re-impregnated in three years. When saltpetre bore a high price, +immense quantities were manufactured at the Mammoth Cave, but the +return of peace brought the saltpetre from the East Indies in +competition with the American, and drove that of the produce of our +country entirely from the market. An idea may be formed of the extent +of the manufacture of saltpetre at this Cave, from the fact that the +contract for the supply of the fixed alkali alone for the Cave, for +the year 1814, was twenty thousand dollars." + +"The price of the article was so high, and the profits of the +manufacturer so great, as to set half the western world gadding after +nitre caves--the gold mines of the day. Cave hunting in fact became a +kind of mania, beginning with speculators, and ending with hair +brained young men, who dared for the love of adventure the risk which +others ran for profit." Every hole, remarked an old miner, the size of +a man's body, has been penetrated for miles around the Mammoth Cave, +but although we found "_petre earth_," we never could find a cave +worth having. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Gothic Gallery--Gothic Avenue--Good Road--Mummies--Interesting Account +of Them--Gothic Avenue once called Haunted Chamber--Why so Named-- +Adventure of a Miner in Former Days. + + +In looking from the ruins of the nitre works, to the left and some +thirty feet above, you will see a large cave, connected with which is +a narrow gallery sweeping across the Main Cave and losing itself in a +cave, which is seen above to your right This latter cave is the Gothic +Avenue, which no doubt was at one time connected with the cave +opposite and on the same level, forming a complete bridge over the +main avenue, but afterwards broken down and separated by some great +convulsion. + +The cave on the left, which is filled with sand, has been penetrated +but a short distance; still from its great size at its entrance, it is +more than probable, that, were all obstructions removed, it might be +found to extend for miles. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE GOTHIC AVENUE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +While examining the old saltpetre works, the guide left us without our +being aware of it, but casting our eyes around we perceived him +standing some forty feet above, on the projection of a huge rock, or +tower, which commands a view of the grand gallery to a great extent +both up and down. + +Leaving the Main Cave and ascending a flight of stairs twenty or +thirty feet, we entered the Gothic Avenue, so named from the Gothic +appearance of some of its compartments. This avenue is about forty +feet wide, fifteen feet high and two miles long. The ceiling looks in +many places as smooth and white as though it had been under the trowel +of the most skilful plasterer. A good road has been made throughout +this cave, and such is the temperature and purity of its atmosphere, +that every visitor must experience their salutary influences. + +In a recess on the left hand elevated a few feet above the floor and +about fifty feet from the head of the stairs leading up from the Main +Avenue, two mummies long since taken away, were to be seen in 1813. +They were in good preservation; one was a female with her extensive +wardrobe placed before her. The removal of those mummies from the +place in which they were found can be viewed as little less than +sacrilege. There they had been, perhaps for centuries, and there they +ought to have been left. What has become of them I know not. One of +them, it is said, was lost in the burning of the Cincinnati museum. +The wardrobe of the female was given to a Mr. Ward, of Massachusetts, +who I believe presented it to the British Museum. + +Two of the miners found a mummy in Audubon Avenue, in 1814. With a +view to conceal it for a time, they placed large stones over it, and +marked the walls about the spot so that they might find it at some +future period; this however, they were never able to effect. In 1840, +the present hotel keeper Mr. Miller, learning the above facts, went in +search of the place designated, taking with him very many lights, and +found the marks on the walls, and near to them the mummy. It was, +however, so much injured and broken to pieces by the heavy weights +which had been placed upon it, as to be of little interest or value. I +have no doubt, that if proper efforts were made, mummies and other +objects of curiosity might be found, which would tend to throw light +on the early history of the first inhabitants of this continent. + +Believing, that whatever may relate to these mummies cannot fail to +interest, I will extract from the recently published narrative of a +highly scientific gentleman of New York, himself one of the early +visitors to the Cave. + +"On my first visit to the Mammoth Cave in 1813, I saw a relic of +ancient times, which requires a minute description. This description +is from a memorandum made in the Cave at the time. + +"In the digging of saltpetre earth, in the short cave, a flat rock was +met with by the workmen, a little below the surface of the earth in +the Cave; this stone was raised, and was about four feet wide and as +many long; beneath it was a square excavation about three feet deep +and as many in length and width. In this small nether subterranean +chamber, sat in solemn silence one of the human species, a female with +her wardrobe and ornaments placed at her side. The body was in a state +of perfect preservation, and sitting erect The arms were folded up and +the hands were laid across the bosom; around the two wrists was wound +a small cord, designed probably, to keep them in the posture in which +they were first placed; around the body and next thereto, was wrapped +two deer-skins. These skins appear to have been dressed in some mode +different from what is now practised by any people, of whom I have any +knowledge. The hair of the skins was cut off very near the surface. +The skins were ornamented with the imprints of vines and leaves, which +were sketched with a substance perfectly white. Outside of these two +skins was a large square sheet, which was either wove or knit. This +fabric was the inner bark of a tree, which I judge from appearances to +be that of the linn tree. In its texture and appearance, it resembled +the South Sea Island cloth or matting; this sheet enveloped the whole +body and the head. The hair on the head was cut off within an eighth +of an inch of the skin, except near the neck, where it was an inch +long. The color of the hair was a dark red; the teeth were white and +perfect. I discovered no blemish upon the body, except a wound between +two ribs near the back-bone; one of the eyes had also been injured. +The finger and toe nails were perfect and quite long. The features +were regular. I measured the length of one of the bones of the arm +with a string, from the elbow to the wrist joint, and they equalled my +own in length, viz: ten and a half inches. From the examination of the +whole frame, I judged the figure to be that of a very tall female, say +five feet ten inches in height. The body, at the time it was first +discovered, weighed but fourteen pounds, and was perfectly dry; on +exposure to the atmosphere, it gained in weight by absorbing dampness +four pounds. Many persons have expressed surprise that a human body of +great size should weigh so little, as many human skeletons of nothing +but bone, exceed this weight. Recently some experiments have been made +in Paris, which have demonstrated the fact of the human body being +reduced to ten pounds, by being exposed to a heated atmosphere for a +long period of time. The color of the skin was dark, not black; the +flesh was hard and dry upon the bones. At the side of the body lay a +pair of moccasins, a knapsack and an indispensable or reticule. I will +describe these in the order in which I have named them. The moccasins +were made of wove or knit bark, like the wrapper I have described. +Around the top there was a border to add strength and perhaps as an +ornament. These were of middling size, denoting feet of small size. +The shape of the moccasins differs but little from the deer-skin +moccasins worn by the Northern Indians. The knapsack was of wove or +knit bark, with a deep, strong border around the top, and was about +the size of knapsacks used by soldiers. The workmanship of it was +neat, and such as would do credit as a fabric, to a manufacturer of +the present day. The reticule was also made of knit or wove bark. The +shape was much like a horseman's valise, opening its whole length on +the top. On the side of the opening and a few inches from it, were two +rows of hoops, one row on each side. Two cords were fastened to one +end of the reticule at the top, which passed through the loop on one +side and then on the other side, the whole length, by which it was +laced up and secured. The edges of the top of the reticule were +strengthened with deep fancy borders. The articles contained in the +knapsack and reticule were quite numerous, and are as follows: one +head cap, made of wove or knit bark, without any border, and of the +shape of the plainest night cap; seven head-dresses made of the quills +of large birds, and put together somewhat in the same way that feather +fans are made, except that the pipes of the quills are not drawn to a +point, but are spread out in straight lines with the top. This was +done by perforating the pipe of the quill in two places and running +two cords through these holes, and then winding around the quills and +the cord, fine thread, to fasten each quill in the place designed for +it. These cords extended some length beyond the quills on each side, +so that on placing the feathers erect on the head, the cords could be +tied together at the back of the head. This would enable the wearer to +present a beautiful display of feathers standing erect and extending a +distance above the head, and entirely surrounding it. These were most +splendid head dresses, and would be a magnificent ornament to the head +of a female at the present day,--several hundred strings of beads; +these consisted of very hard brown seed smaller than hemp seed, in +each of which a small hole had been made, and through this hole a +small three corded thread, similar in appearance and texture to seine +twine; these were tied up in bunches, as a merchant ties up coral +beads when he exposes them for sale. The red hoofs of fawns, on a +string supposed to be worn around the neck as a necklace. These hoofs +were about twenty in number, and may have been emblematic of +Innocence; the claw of an eagle, with a hole made in it, through which +a cord was passed, so that it could be worn pendent from the neck; the +jaw of a bear designed to be worn in the same manner as the eagle's +claw, and supplied with a cord to suspend it around the neck; two +rattlesnake-skins, one of these had fourteen rattles upon it, these +were neatly folded up; some vegetable colors done up in leaves; a +small bunch of deer sinews, resembling cat-gut in appearance; several +bunches of thread and twine, two and three threaded, some of which +were nearly white; seven needles, some of these were of horn and some +of bone, they were smooth and appeared to have been much used. These +needles had each a knob or whirl on the top, and at the other end were +brought to a point like a large sail needle. They had no eyelets to +receive a thread. The top of one of these needles was handsomely +scalloped; a hand-piece made of deer-skin, with a hole through it for +the thumb, and designed probably to protect the hand in the use of the +needle, the same as thimbles are now used; two whistles about eight +inches long made of cane, with a joint about one third the length; +over the joint is an opening extending to each side of the tube of the +whistle, these openings were about three-fourths of an inch long and a +quarter of an inch wide, and had each a flat reed placed in the +opening. These whistles were tied together with a cord wound around +them. + +"I have been thus minute in describing the mute witness from the days +of other times, and the articles which were deposited within her +earthen house. Of the race of people to whom she belonged when living, +we know nothing; and as to conjecture, the reader who gathers from +these pages this account, can judge of the matter as well as those who +saw the remnant of mortality in the subterranean chambers in which she +was entombed. The cause of the preservation of her body, dress and +ornaments is no mystery. The dry atmosphere of the Cave, with the +nitrate of lime, with which the earth that covers the bottom of these +nether palaces is so highly impregnated, preserves animal flesh, and +it will neither putrify nor decompose when confined to its unchanging +action. Heat and moisture are both absent from the Cave, and it is +these two agents, acting together, which produce both animal and +vegetable decomposition and putrefaction. + +"In the ornaments, etc., of this mute witness of ages gone, we have a +record of olden time, from which, in the absence of a written record, +we may draw some conclusions. In the various articles which +constituted her ornaments, there were no metallic substances. In the +make of her dress, there is no evidence of the use of any other +machinery than the bone and horn needles. The beads are of a +substance, of the use of which for such purposes, we have no account +among people of whom we have any written record. She had no warlike +arms. By what process the hair upon her head was cut short, or by what +process the deer-skins were shorn, we have no means of conjecture. +These articles afford us the same means of judging of the nation to +which she belonged, and of their advances in the arts, that future +generations will have in the exhumation of a tenant of one of our +modern tombs, with the funeral shroud, etc. in a state of like +preservation; with this difference, that with the present inhabitants +of this section of the globe, but few articles of ornament are +deposited with the body. The features of this ancient member of the +human family much resembled those of a tall, handsome American woman. +The forehead was high, and the head well formed. + + "Ye mouldering relics of a race departed, + Your names have perished; not a trace remains." + +The Gothic Avenue was once called the Haunted Chamber, and owed its +name to an adventure that befell one of the miners in former days, +which is thus related by the author of "Calavar." + +In the Lower Branch is a room called the Salts Room, which produces +considerable quantities of the sulphate of magnesia, or of soda, we +forget which--a mineral that the proprietor of the Cave did not fail +to turn to account. The miner in question was a new and raw hand--of +course neither very well acquainted with the Cave itself, nor with the +approved modes of averting or repairing accidents, to which, from the +nature of their occupation, the miners were greatly exposed. Having +been sent, one day, in charge of an older workman, to the Salts Room +to dig a few sacks of the salt, and finding that the path to this +sequestered nook was perfectly plain; and that, from the Haunted +Chambers being a single, continuous passage without branches, it was +impossible to wander from it, our hero disdained on his second visit, +to seek or accept assistance, and trudged off to his work alone. The +circumstance being common enough he was speedily forgotten by his +brother miners; and it was not until several hours after, when they +all left off their toil for the more agreeable duty of eating their +dinner, that his absence was remarked, and his heroical resolution to +make his way alone to the Salts Room remembered. As it was apparent, +from the time he had been gone, that some accident must have happened +to him, half a dozen men, most of them negroes, stripped half naked, +their usual working costume, were sent to hunt him up, a task supposed +to be of no great difficulty, unless he had fallen into a pit. In the +meanwhile, the poor miner, it seems, had succeeded in reaching the +Salts Room, filling his sack, and retracing his steps half way back to +the Grand Gallery; when finding the distance greater than he thought +it ought to be, the conceit entered his unlucky brain that he _might_ +perhaps be going wrong. No sooner had the suspicion struck him, than +he fell into a violent terror, dropped his sack, ran backwards, then +returned, then ran back again--each time more frightened and +bewildered than before; until at last he ended his adventure by +tumbling over a stone and extinguishing his lamp. Thus left in the +dark, not knowing where to turn, frightened out of his wits besides, +he fell to remembering his sins--always remembered by those who are +lost in the Cave--and praying with all his might for succor. But hours +passed away, and assistance came not; the poor fellow's frenzy +increased; he felt himself a doomed man; he thought his terrible +situation was a judgment imposed on him for his wickedness; nay, he +even believed, at last, that he was no longer an inhabitant of the +earth--that he had been translated, even in the body, to the place of +torment--in other words, that he was in hell itself, the prey of the +devils, who would presently be let loose upon him. It was at this +moment the miners in search of him made their appearance; they lighted +upon his sack, lying where he had thrown it, and set up a great shout, +which was the first intimation he had of their approach. He started +up, and seeing them in the distance, the half naked negroes in +advance, all swinging their torches aloft, he, not doubting they were +those identical devils whose appearance he had been expecting, took to +his heels, yelling lustily for mercy; nor did he stop, notwithstanding +the calls of his amazed friends, until he had fallen a second time +over the rocks, where he lay on his face, roaring for pity, until, by +dint of much pulling and shaking, he was convinced that he was still +in the world and the Mammoth Cave. Such is the story of the Haunted +Chambers, the name having been given to commemorate the incident. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Stalagmite Pillars--The Bell--Vulcan's Furnace--Register Rooms-- +Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel--Devil's Arm-Chair--Elephant's +Head--Lover's Leap--Napoleon's Dome--Salts Cave--Annetti's Dome. + + +Resuming our explorations in this most interesting avenue, we soon +came in sight of stalagmite pillars, reaching from the floor to the +ceiling, once perhaps white and translucent, but now black and +begrimed with smoke. At this point we were startled by the hollow +tread of our feet, caused by the proximity of another large avenue +underneath, which the guide assured us he had often visited. In this +neighborhood too, there are a number of Stalactites, one of which was +called the Bell, which on being struck, sounded like the deep bell of +a cathedral; but it now no longer tolls, having been broken in twain +by a visiter from Philadelphia some years ago. Further on our way, we +passed Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnace, where there is a heap, not +unlike cinders in appearance, and some dark colored water, in which I +suppose the great forger used to slake his iron and perhaps his bolts. +Next in order and not very distant are the new and old Register Rooms. +Here on the ceiling which is as smooth and white as if it had been +finished off by the plasterer, thousands of names have been traced by +the smoke of a candle--names which can create no pleasing associations +or recollections; names unknown to fame, and which might excite +disgust, when read for the first time on the ceiling which they have +disfigured. + +[Illustration: STALAGMITE HALL OR GOTHIC CHAPEL. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + + +Soon after leaving the old Register Room, we were halted by our guide, +who took from us all the lamps excepting one. Having made certain +arrangements, he cried aloud, "Come on!" which we did, and in a few +moments entered an apartment of surprising grandeur and magnificence. +This apartment or hall is elliptical in shape and eighty feet long by +fifty wide. Stalagmite columns, of vast size nearly block up the two +ends; and two rows of pillars of smaller dimensions, reaching from +floor to ceiling and equidistant from the wall on either side, extend +its entire length. Against the pillars, and in many places from the +ceiling, our lamps were hanging, and, lighting up the whole space, +exhibited to our enraptured sight a scene surpassingly grand, and well +calculated to inspire feelings of solemnity and awe. This is the +Stalagmite Hall, or as some call it, the Gothic Chapel, which no one +can see under such circumstances as did our party, without being +forcibly reminded of the old, very old cathedrals of Europe. +Continuing our walk we came to the Devil's Arm-Chair. This is a large +Stalagmite column, in the centre of which is formed a capacious seat. +Like most other visiters we seated ourselves in the chair of his +Satanic Majesty, and drank sulphur water dipped up from a small basin +of rock, near the foot of the chair. Further on we passed a number of +Stalactites and Stalagmites, Napoleon's Breast-Work, (behind which we +found ashes and burnt cane,) the Elephant's Head, the Curtain, and +arrived at last at the Lover's Leap. The Lover's Leap is a large +pointed rock projecting over a dark and gloomy hollow, thirty or more +feet deep. Our guide told us that the young ladies often asked their +beaux to take the Lover's Leap, but that he never knew any to "love +hard enough" to attempt it. We descended into the hollow, immediately +below the Lover's Leap, and entered to the left and at right-angle +with our previous course, a passage or chasm in the rock, three feet +wide and fifty feet high, which conducted us to the lower branch of +the Gothic Avenue. At the entrance of this lower branch is an +immensely large flat rock called Gatewood's Dining Table, to the right +of which is a cave, which we penetrated, as far as the Cooling Tub--a +beautiful basin of water six feet wide and three deep--into which a +small stream of the purest water pours itself from the ceiling and +afterwards finds its way into the Flint Pit at no great distance. +Returning, we wound around Gatewood's Dining Table, which nearly +blocks up the way, and continued our walk along the lower branch more +than half a mile, passing Napoleon's Dome, the Cinder Banks, the +Crystal Pool, the Salts Cave, etc., etc. Descending a few feet and +leaving the cave which continues onwards, we entered, on our right, a +place of great seclusion and grandeur, called Annetti's Dome. Through +a crevice in the right wall of the dome is a waterfall. The water +issues in a stream a foot in diameter, from a high cave in the side of +the dome--falls upon the solid bottom, and passes off by a small +channel into the Cistern, which is directly on the pathway of the +cave. The Cistern is a large pit, which is usually kept nearly full of +water. + +Near the end of this branch, (the lower branch) there is a crevice in +the ceiling over the last spring, through which the sound of water may +be heard falling in a cave or open space above. + +Highly gratified with what we had now seen in the Gothic Avenue, we +concluded to pursue it no further, but to retrace our steps to the +Main Cave, regretting however, that we had not visited the Salts Cave, +(a branch of the Gothic Avenue,) on being told, when too late, that it +would have amply compensated us for our trouble, being rich in fine +specimens of Epsom or Glauber salts. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Ball-Room--Willie's Spring--Wandering Willie--Ox-Stalls--Giant's +Coffin--Acute-Angle or Great Bend--Range of Cabins--Curative Properties +of the Cave Air long known. + + +We are now again in the Main Cave or Grand Gallery, which continues to +increase in interest as we advance, eliciting from our party frequent +and loud exclamations of admiration and wonder. Not many steps from +the stairs leading down from the Gothic Avenue into the Main Cave, is +the Ball-Room, so called from its singular adaptedness to such a +purpose; for there is an orchestra, fifteen or eighteen feet high, +large enough to accommodate a hundred or more musicians, with a +gallery extending back to the level of the high embankment near the +Gothic Avenue; besides which, the avenue here is lofty, wide, straight +and perfectly level for several hundred feet. At the trifling expense +of a plank floor, seats and lamps, a ball-room might be had, if not +more splendid, at all events more grand and magnificent than any other +on earth. The effect of music here would be truly inspiring; but the +awful solemnity of the place may, in the opinion of many, prevent its +being used as a temple of Terpsichore. Extremes, we are told, often +meet. The same objection has been urged against the Cave's being used +for religious services. "No clergyman," remarked a distinguished +divine, "be he ever so eloquent could concentrate the attention of his +congregation in such a place. The God of nature speaks too loud here +for _man to be heard_." + +Leaving these points to be settled as they may, we will proceed +onwards; the road now is broad and fine, and in many places dusty. +Next in order is Willie's Spring, a beautifully fluted niche in the +left hand wall, caused by the continual attrition of water trickling +down into a basin below. This spring derives its name from that of a +young gentleman, the son of a highly respectable clergyman of +Cincinnati, who, in the spirit of romance, assumed the name of +Wandering Willie, and taking with him his violin, marched on foot to +the Cave. Wishing no better place in which to pass the night, he +selected this spot, requesting the guide to call for him in the +morning. This he did and found him fast asleep upon his bed of earth, +with his violin beside him--ever since it has been called Willie's +Spring. Just beyond the spring and near the left wall, is the place +where the oxen were fed during the time of the miners; and strewn +around are a great many corn-cobs, to all appearance, and in fact, +perfectly sound, although they have lain there for more than thirty +years. In this neighborhood is a niche of great size in the wall on +the left, and reaching from the roof to the bottom of a pit more than +thirty feet deep, down the sides of which, water of the purest kind is +continually dripping, and is afterwards conducted to a large trough, +from which the invalids obtain their supply of water, during their +sojourn in the Cave. Near the bottom, this pit or well expands into a +large room, out of which, there is no opening. It is probable that +Richardson's Spring in the Deserted Chambers is supplied from this +well. Passing the Well Cave, Rocky Cave, etc., etc., we arrived at the +Giant's Coffin, a huge rock on the right, thus named from its singular +resemblance in shape to a coffin; its locality, apart from its great +size, renders it particularly conspicuous, as all must pass around it, +in leaving the Main Cave, to visit the rivers and the thousand wonders +beyond. At this point commence those incrustations, which, portraying +every imaginable figure on the ceiling, afford full scope to the +fanciful to picture what they will, whether of "birds, or beasts, or +creeping things." About a hundred yards beyond the Coffin, the Cave +makes a majestic curve, and sweeping round the Great Bend or +Acute-Angle, resumes its general course. Here the guide ignited a +Bengal light. This vast amphitheatre became illuminated, and a scene +of enchantment was exposed to our view. Poets may conceive, but no +language can describe, the splendor and sublimity of the scene. The +rapturous exclamations of our party might have been heard from afar, +both up and down this place of wonders. Opposite to the Great Bend, is +the entrance of the Sick Room Cave, so called from the fact of the +sudden sickness of a visiter a few years ago, supposed to have been +caused by his smoking, with others, cigars in one of its most remote +and confined nooks. Immediately beyond the Great Bend, a row of +cabins, built for consumptive patients, commences. All of these are +framed buildings, with the exception of two, which are of stone. They +stand in line, from thirty to one hundred feet apart, exhibiting a +picturesque, yet at the same time, a gloomy and mournful appearance. +They are well furnished, and without question, would with good and +comfortable accommodations, pure air and uniform temperature, cure the +pulmonary consumption. The invalids in the Cave ought to be cured; but +I doubt whether the Cave air or any thing else can cure confirmed +Phthisis. A knowledge of the curative properties of the Cave air, is +not, as is generally supposed, of recent date. It has been long known. +A physician of great respectability, formerly a member of Congress +from the district adjoining the Cave, was so firmly convinced of the +medical properties of its air, as to express more than twenty years +ago, as his opinion, that the State of Kentucky ought to purchase it, +with a view to establish a hospital in one of its avenues. Again the +author of "Calavar," himself a distinguished professor of medicine, +makes the following remarks in relation to the Cave air, as far back +as 1832, the date of his visit: + +"It is always temperate. Its purity, judging from its effects on the +lungs, and from other circumstances, is remarkable, though in what its +purity consists, I know not. But, be its composition what it may, it +is certain its effects upon the spirits and bodily powers of visiters, +are extremely exhilarating; and that it is not less salubrious than +enlivening. The nitre diggers were a famously healthy set of men; it +was a common and humane practice to employ laborers of enfeebled +constitutions, who were soon restored to health and strength, though +kept at constant labour; and more joyous, merry fellows were never +seen. The oxen, of which several were kept day and night in the Cave, +hauling the nitrous earth, were after a month or two of toil, in as +fine condition for the shambles, as if fattened in the stall. The +ordinary visiter, though rambling a dozen hours or more, over paths of +the roughest and most difficult kind, is seldom conscious of fatigue, +until he returns to the upper air; and then it seems to him, at least +in the summer season, that he has exchanged the atmosphere of paradise +for that of a charnel warmed by steam--all without is so heavy, so +dank, so dead, so mephitic. Awe and even apprehension, if that has +been felt, soon yield to the influence of the delicious air of the +Cave; and after a time a certain jocund feeling is found mingled with +the deepest impressions of sublimity, which there are so many objects +to awaken. I recommend all broken hearted lovers and dyspeptic dandies +to carry their complaints to the Mammoth Cave, where they will +undoubtedly find themselves "translated" into very buxom and happy +persons before they are aware of it." + +[Illustration: STAR CHAMBER. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Star Chamber--Salts Room--Indian Houses--Cross Rooms--Black Chambers-- +A Dinner Party--Humble Chute--Solitary Care--Fairy Grotto--Chief City +or Temple--Lee's Description--Return to the Hotel. + + +The Star Chamber next attracted our attention. It presents the most +perfect optical illusion imaginable; in looking up to the ceiling, +which is here very high, you seem to see the very firmament itself, +studded with stars; and afar off, a comet with its long, bright tail. +Not far from this Star Chamber, may be seen, in a cavity in the wall +on the right, and about twenty feet above the floor, an oak pole about +ten feet long and six inches in diameter, with two round sticks of +half the thickness and three feet long, tied on to it transversely, at +about four feet apart. By means of a ladder we ascended to the cavity, +and found the pole to be firmly fixed--one end resting on the bottom +of the cavity, and the other reaching across and forced into a crevice +about three feet above. We supposed that this was a ladder once used +by the former inhabitants of the Cave, in getting the salts which are +incrusted on the walls in many places. Doct. Locke, of the Medical +College of Ohio, is, however, of the opinion, that on it was placed a +dead body,--similar contrivances being used by some Indian tribes on +which to place their dead. Although thousands have passed the spot, +still this was never seen until the fall of 1841. Ages have doubtless +rolled by since this was placed here, and yet it is perfectly sound; +even the bark which confines the transverse pieces shows no marks of +decay. + +We passed through some Side Cuts, as they are called. These are caves +opening on the sides of the avenues; and after running for some +distance, entering them again. Some of them exceed half a mile in +length; but most generally they are short. In many of them, "quartz, +calcedony, red ochre, gypsum, and salts are found." The walking, in +this part of the avenue, being rough, we progressed but slowly, until +we reached the Salts Room; here we found the walls and ceiling covered +with salts hanging in crystals. The least agitation of the air causing +flakes of the crystals to fall like snow. In the Salts Room are the +Indian houses, under the rocks--small spaces or rooms completely +covered--some of which contain ashes and cane partly burnt. The +_Cross Rooms_, which we next come to, is a grand section of this +avenue; the ceiling has an unbroken span of one hundred and seventy +feet, without a column to support it! The mouths of two caves are seen +from this point, neither of which we visited, and much to our loss, as +will appear from the following extract from the "Notes on the Mammoth +Cave, by E.F. Lee, Esq., Civil Engineer," in relation to one of +them--the Black Chambers: + +"At the ruins in the Black Chambers, there are a great many large +blocks composed of different strata of rocks, cemented together, +resembling the walls, pedestals, cornices, etc., of some old castle, +scattered over the bottom of the Cave. The avenue here is so wide, as +to make it quite a task to walk from one side to the other. On the +right hand, beyond the ruins, you enter the right branch, on the same +level--the ceiling of which is regularly arched. Through the Big +Chimneys you ascend into an upper room, about the size of the Main +Cave, the bottom of which is higher than the ceiling of the one below. +Proceeding on we soon heard the low murmurings of a water-fall,--the +sound of which becomes louder and louder as we advanced, until we +reached the Cataract. In the roof are perforations as large as a +hogshead, on the right hand side, from which water is ever falling, on +ordinary occasions in not very large quantities; but after heavy +rains--in torrents; and with a horrible roar that shakes the walls and +resounds afar through the Cave. It is at such times that these +cascades are worthy the name of cataracts, which they bear. The water +falling into a great funnel-shaped pit, immediately vanishes." + +Here we concluded to dine, and at quite a fashionable hour--4, P.M. +The guide arranged the plates, knives and forks, wine-glasses, etc., +on a huge table of rock, and announced,--"Dinner is ready!" We filled +our plates with the excellent viands prepared at the Cave House, and +seating ourselves on the rocks or nitre earth, partook of our repast +with the gusto of gourmands, and quaffing, ever and anon, wines which +would have done credit to the Astor or Tremont House. "There may be," +remarked our corpulent friend B., "a great deal of romance in this way +of eating--with your plate on your lap, and seated on a rock or a lump +of nitre earth--but for my part I would rather dispense with the +poetry of the thing and eat a good dinner, whether above or below +ground, from off a bona-fide table, and seated in a good substantial +chair. The proprietor ought to have at all the watering places, (and +they are numerous,) tables, chairs, and the necessary table furniture, +that visitors might partake of their collations in some degree of +comfort." The guide who, by the way, is a very intelligent and +facetious fellow, was much amused at the suggestion of our friend, and +remarked that "the owner of the Cave, Doct. Croghan, lived near +Louisville, and that the only way to get such '_fixings_' at the +watering places, was to write to him on the subject." "Then," said B., +"for the sake of those who may follow after us, I will take it upon +myself to write." + +From this point you have a view of the Main Avenue on our left, +pursuing its general course, and exhibiting the same solemn grandeur +as from the commencement,--and directly before us the way to the +Humble Chute and the Cataract. The Humble Chute is the entrance to the +Solitary Chambers; before entering which, we must crawl on our hands +and knees some fifteen or twenty feet under a low arch. It is +appropriately named; as is the Solitary Chambers which we have now +entered. You feel here,--to use an expression of one of our +party,--"out of the world." Without dwelling on the intervening +objects--although they are numerous and not without interest,--we will +enter at once the Fairy Grotto of the Solitary Cave. It is in truth a +fairy grotto; a countless number of Stalactites are seen extending, at +irregular distances, from the roof to the floor, of various sizes and +of the most fantastic shapes--some quite straight, some crooked, some +large and hollow--forming irregularly fluted columns; and some solid +near the ceiling, and divided lower down, into a great number of small +branches like the roots of trees; exhibiting the appearance of a coral +grove. Hanging our lamps to the incrustations on the columns, the +grove of Stalactites became faintly lighted up, disclosing a scene of +extraordinary wildness and beauty. "This is nothing to what you'll see +on the other side of the rivers," cries our guide, smiling at our +enthusiastic admiration. With all its present beauty, this grotto is +far from being what it was, before it was despoiled and robbed some +eight or nine years ago, by a set of vandals, who, through sheer +wantonness, broke many of the stalactites, leaving them strewn on the +floor--a disgustful memorial of their vulgar propensities and +barbarian-like conduct. + +Returning from the Fairy Grotto, we entered the Main Cave at the +Cataract, and continued our walk to the Chief City or Temple, which is +thus described by Lee, in his "Notes on the Mammoth Cave:" + +"The Temple is an immense vault covering an area of two acres, and +covered by a single dome of solid rock, one hundred and twenty feet +high. It excels in size the Cave of Staffa; and rivals the celebrated +vault in the Grotto of Antiparos, which is said to be the largest in +the world. In passing through from one end to the other, the dome +appears to follow like the sky in passing from place to place on the +earth. In the middle of the dome there is a large mound of rocks +rising on one side nearly to the top, very steep and forming what is +called the _Mountain_. When first I ascended this mound from the cave +below, I was struck with a feeling of awe more deep and intense, than +any thing that I had ever before experienced. I could only observe the +narrow circle which was illuminated immediately around me; above and +beyond was apparently an unlimited space, in which the ear could catch +not the slightest sound, nor the eye find an object to rest upon. It +was filled with silence and darkness; and yet I knew that I was +beneath the earth, and that this space, however large it might be, was +actually bounded by solid walls. My curiosity was rather excited than +gratified. In order that I might see the whole in one connected view, +I built fires in many places with the pieces of cane which I found +scattered among the rocks. Then taking my stand on the Mountain, a +scene was presented of surprising magnificence. On the opposite side +the strata of gray limestone, breaking up by steps from the bottom, +could scarcely be discerned in the distance by the glimmering light. +Above was the lofty dome, closed at the top by a smooth oval slab, +beautifully defined in the outline, from which the walls sloped away +on the right and left into thick darkness. Every one has heard of the +dome of the Mosque of St. Sophia, of St. Peter's and St. Paul's; they +are never spoken of but in terms of admiration, as the chief works of +architecture, and among the noblest and most stupendous examples of +what man can do when aided by science; and yet when compared with the +dome of this Temple, they sink into comparative insignificance. Such +is the surpassing grandeur of Nature's works." + +[Illustration: CHIEF CITY OR TEMPLE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +To us, the Temple seemed to merit the glowing description above given, +but what would Lee think, on being told, that since the discovery of +the rivers and the world of beauties beyond them, not one person in +fifty visits the Temple or the Fairy Grotto; they are now looked upon +as tame and uninteresting. The hour being now late, we concluded to +proceed no further, but to return to the hotel, where we arrived at +11, P.M. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Arrival of a large Party--Second Visit--Lamps Extinguished--Laughable +Confusion--Wooden Bowl--Deserted Chambers--Richardson's Side-Saddle +Pit--The Labyrinth--Louisa's Dome--Gorin's Dome--Bottomless Pit-- +Separation of our Party. + + +On being summoned to breakfast the next morning, we ascertained that a +large party of ladies and gentlemen had arrived during our absence, +who, like ourselves, were prepared to enter the Cave. They, however, +were for hurrying over the rivers, to the distant points beyond--we, +for examining leisurely the avenues on this side. At 8 o'clock, both +parties accompanied by their respective guides and making a very +formidable array, set out from the hotel, happy in the anticipation of +the "sights to be seen." It was amusing to hear the remarks, and to +witness the horror of some of the party on first beholding the mouth +of the Cave. Oh! it is so frightful!--It is so cold!--I _cannot_ go +in! Notwithstanding all this, curiosity prevailed, and down we +went--arranged our lamps, which being extinguished in passing through +the doorway by the strong current of air rushing outwards, there arose +such a clamor, such laughter, such screaming, such crying out for the +guides, as though all Bedlam had broke loose,--the guides exerting +themselves to quiet apprehensions, and the visiters of yesterday +knowing that there was neither danger nor just cause of alarm, doing +their utmost to counteract their efforts, by well feigned exclamations +of terror. At length the lamps were re-lighted and order being +restored, onward we went. The Vestibule and Church were each in turn +illuminated, to the enthusiastic delight of all--even those of the +party, who were but now so terrified, were loud in their expressions +of admiration and wonder. Arrived at the Giant's Coffin, we leave the +Main Cave to enter regions very dissimilar to those we have seen. A +narrow passage behind the Coffin leads to a circular room, one hundred +feet in diameter, with a low roof, called the Wooden Bowl, in allusion +to its figure, or as some say, from a wooden bowl having been found +here by some old miner. This Bowl is the vestibule of the Deserted +Chambers. On the right, are the Steeps of Time, (why so called we are +left to conjecture,) down which, descending about twenty feet, and +almost perpendicularly for the first ten, we enter the Deserted +Chambers, which in their course present features extremely wild, +terrific and multiform. For two hundred yards the ceiling as you +advance is rough and broken, but further on, it is waving, white and +smooth as if worn by water. At Richardson's Spring, the imprint of +moccasins and of children's feet, of some by-gone age, were recently +seen. There are more pits in the Deserted Chambers than in any other +portion of the Cave; and among the most noted are the Covered Pit, the +Side-Saddle Pit and the Bottomless Pit. Indeed the whole range of +these chambers, is so interrupted by pits, and throughout is so +irregular and serpentine and so bewildering from the number of its +branches, that the visiter, doubtful of his footing, and uncertain as +to his course, is soon made sensible of the prudence of the +regulation, which enjoins him, "not to leave the guide." "The Covered +Pit is in a little branch to the left; this pit is twelve or fifteen +feet in diameter, covered with a thin rock, around which a narrow +crevice extends, leaving only a small support on one side. There is a +large rock resting on the centre of the cover. The sound of a +waterfall may be heard from the pit but cannot be seen." The +Side-Saddle Pit is about twenty feet long and eight feet wide, with a +margin about three feet high, and extending lengthwise ten feet, +against which one may safely lean, and view the interior of the pit +and dome. After a short walk from this place, we came to a ladder on +our right, which conducted us down about fifteen feet into a narrow +pass, not more than five feet wide; this pass is the Labyrinth, one +end of which leads to the Bottomless Pit, entering it about fifty feet +down, and the other after various windings, now up, now down, over a +bridge, and up and down ladders, conducts you to one of the chief +glories of the Cave,--Gorin's Dome; which, strange to tell, was not +discovered until a few years ago. Immediately behind the ladder, there +is a narrow opening in the rock, extending up very nearly to the cave +above, which leads about twenty feet back to Louisa's Dome, a pretty +little place of not more than twelve feet in diameter, but of twice +that height. This dome is directly under the centre of the cave we had +just been traversing, and when lighted up, persons within it can be +plainly seen from above, through a crevice in the rock. Arrived at +Gorin's Dome, we were forcibly struck by the seeming appearance of +_design_, in the arrangement of the several parts, for the special +accommodation of visiters--even with reference to their number. The +Labyrinth, which we followed up, brought us at its termination, to a +window or hole, about four feet square, three feet above the floor, +opening into the interior of the dome, about midway between the bottom +and top; the wall of rock being at this spot, not more than eighteen +inches thick; and continuing around, and on the outside of the dome, +along a gallery of a few feet in width, for twenty or more paces, we +arrived at another opening of much larger size, eligibly disposed, and +commanding, like the first, a view of very nearly the whole interior +space. Whilst we are arranging ourselves, the guide steals away, +passes down, down, one knows not how, and is presently seen by the dim +light of his lamp, fifty feet below, standing near the wall on the +inside of the dome. The dome is of solid rock, with sides apparently +fluted and polished, and perhaps two hundred feet high. Immediately in +front and about thirty feet from the window, a huge rock seems +suspended from above and arranged in folds like a curtain. Here we are +then, the guide fifty feet below us. Some of the party thrusting their +heads and, in their anxiety to see, their bodies through the window +into the vast and gloomy dome of two hundred feet in height. The +window is not large enough to afford a view to all at once, they crowd +one on the top of the other; the more cautious, and those who do not +like to be squeezed, stand back; but still holding fast to the +garments of their friends for fear they might in the ecstasy of their +feelings, leap into the frightful abyss into which they are looking. +Suddenly the guide ignites a _Bengal light_. The vast dome is radiant +with light. Above, as far as the eye can reach, are seen the shining +sides of the fluted walls; below, the yawning gulf is rendered the +more terrific, by the pallid light exposing to view its vast depth, +the whole displaying a scene of sublimity and splendor, such as words +have not power to describe. Returning, we ascended the ladder near +Louisa's Dome, and continued on, having the Labyrinth on our right +side until it terminates in the Bottomless Pit. This pit terminates +also the range of the Deserted Chambers, and was considered the Ultima +Thule of all explorers, until within the last few years, when Mr. +Stephenson of Georgetown, Ky. and the intrepid guide, Stephen, +conceived the idea of reaching the opposite side by throwing a ladder +across the frightful chasm. This they accomplished, and on this +ladder, extending across a chasm of twenty feet wide and near two +hundred deep, did these daring explorers cross to the opposite side, +and thus open the way to all those splendid discoveries, which have +added so much to the value and renown of the Mammoth Cave. The +Bottomless Pit is somewhat in the shape of a horse-shoe, having a +tongue of land twenty seven feet long, running out into the middle of +it. From the end of this point of land, a substantial bridge has been +thrown across to the cave on the opposite side. + +[Illustration: BOTTOMLESS PIT. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +While standing on the bridge, the guide lets down a lighted paper into +the deep abyss; it descends twisting and turning, lower and lower, and +is soon lost in total darkness, leaving us to conjecture, as to what +may be below. Crossing the bridge to the opposite cave, we find +ourselves in the midst of rocks of the most gigantic size lying along +the edge of the pit and on our left hand. Above the pit is a dome of +great size, but which, from its position, few have seen. Proceeding +along a narrow passage for some distance, we arrived at the point from +which diverge two noted routes--the Winding Way and Pensico Avenue. +Here we called a short halt; then wishing our newly formed +acquintances [Transcriber's note: sic] a safe voyage over the "deep +waters," we parted; they taking the left hand to the Winding Way and +the rivers, and we the right to Pensico Avenue. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Pensico Avenue--Great Crossings--Pine Apple Bush--Angelica's Grotto-- +Winding Way--Fat Friend in Trouble--Relief Hall--Bacon Chamber-- +Bandit's Hall. + + +Pensico Avenue averages about fifty feet in width, with a height of +about thirty feet; and is said to be two miles long. It unites in an +eminent degree the truly beautiful with the sublime, and is highly +interesting throughout its entire extent. For a quarter of a mile from +the entrance, the roof is beautifully arched, about twelve feet high +and sixty wide, and formerly was encrusted with rosettes and other +formations, nearly all of which have been taken away or demolished, +leaving this section of the Cave quite denuded. The walking here is +excellent; a dozen persons might run abreast for a quarter of a mile +to Bunyan's Way, a branch of the avenue, leading on to the river. At +this point the avenue changes its features of beauty and regularity, +for those of wild grandeur and sublimity, which it preserves to the +end. The way, no longer smooth and level, is frequently interrupted +and turned aside by huge rocks, which lie tumbled around, in all +imaginable disorder. The roof now becomes very lofty and imposingly +magnificent; its long, pointed or lancet arches, forcibly reminding +you of the rich and gorgeous ceilings of the old Gothic Cathedrals, at +the same time solemnly impressing you with the conviction that this is +a "building not made with hands." No one, not dead to all the more +refined sensibilities of our nature, but must exclaim, in beholding +the sublime scenes which here present themselves, this is not the work +of man! No one can be here without being reminded of the all pervading +presence of the great "Father of all." + + "What, but God, pervades, adjusts and agitates the whole!" + +Not far from the point at which the avenue assumes the rugged +features, which now characterize it, we separated from our guide, he +continuing his straight-forward course, and we descending gradually a +few feet and entering a tunnel of fifteen feet wide on our left, the +ceiling twelve or fourteen feet high, perfectly arched and beautifully +covered with white incrustations, very soon reached the Great +Crossings. Here the guide jumped down some six or eight feet from the +avenue which we had left, into the tunnel where we were standing, and +crossing it, climbed up into the avenue, which he pursued for a short +distance or until it united with the tunnel, where he again joined us. +In separating from, then crossing, and again uniting with the avenue, +it describes with it something like the figure 8. The name, Great +Crossings, is not unapt. It was however, not given, as our intelligent +guide veritably assured us, in honor of the Great Crossings where the +man lives who killed Tecumseh, but because two great caves cross here; +and moreover said he, "the valiant Colonel ought to change the name of +his place, as no two places in a State should bear the same name, and +this being the _great_ place ought to have the preference." + +Not very far from this point, we ascended a hill on our left, and +walking a short distance over our shoe-tops in dry nitrous earth, in a +direction somewhat at a right angle with the avenue below, we arrived +at the Pine Apple Bush, a large column, composed of a white, soft, +crumbling material, with bifurcations extending from the floor to the +ceiling. At a short distance, either to the right or left, you have a +fine view of the avenue some twenty feet below, both up and down. Why +this crumbling stalactite is called the Pine Apple Bush, I cannot +divine. It stands however in a charming, secluded spot, inviting to +repose; and we luxuriated in inhaling the all-inspiring air, while +reclining on the clean, soft and dry salt petre earth. + +All lovers of romantic scenery ought to visit this avenue, and all +dyspeptic hypochondriacs and love-sick despondents should do likewise, +for there is something wonderfully exhilarating in the air of Pensico. +Our friend B. remarked while rolling on the salt petre earth at the +Pine Apple Bush, that he felt "especially happy," and whether from +sympathy, air or what not, we all partook of the same feeling. The +guide seeing the position of our fat friend, and hearing his remark, +said, laughing most immoderately, "these sort of feelings would come +over one, now and then in the Cave, but wait till you get in the +Winding Way and see how you feel then." + +Having descended into the avenue we had left, we passed a number of +stalactites and stalagmites, bearing a remarkable resemblance to +coral, and a hundred or more paces beyond, arrived at a recess on the +left, lined with innumerable crystals of dog-tooth spar, shining most +brilliantly, called Angelica's Grotto. One would think it almost +sacrilege to deface a spot like this; yet, did a Clergyman (the back +of the guide being turned,) deliberately demolish a number of +beautiful crystals to inscribe the initials of his name. + +Returning to the head of Pensico Avenue, we turned to our right, and +entered the narrow pass which leads to the river, pursuing which, for +a few hundred yards, descending all the while, at one or two places +down a ladder or stone steps, we came to a path cut through a high and +broad embankment of sand, which very soon conducted us to the much +talked of and anxiously looked for Winding Way. The Winding Way, has, +in the opinion of many, been channeled in the rock by the gradual +attrition of water. If this be so, and appearances seem to support +such belief, at what early age of the world did the work commence? Was +it not when "the earth was without form and void," thousands of years +perhaps, before the date of the Mosaic account of the Creation? The +Winding Way is one hundred and five feet long, eighteen inches wide, +and from three to seven feet deep, widening out above, sufficiently to +admit the free use of one's arms. It is throughout tortuous, a perfect +_zig-zag_, the terror of the Falstaffs and the ladies of "fat, fair +and forty," who have an instinctive dread of the trials to come, and +are well aware of the merriment that their efforts to _force a +passage_ will excite among their companions of less length of girdle. +Into this winding way, we entered in Indian file, and turning our +right side, then our left, twisting this way, then that, had nearly +made good the passage, when our _fat friend_, who was puffing and +blowing behind us like a high pressure engine, cried out, "Halt, ahead +there! I am stuck as tight as a wedge in a log!" Halt we did, when the +guide, looking at our friend, who was in truth "wedg'd in the rocky +way and sticking fast," cried out, "I told you, when you said at the +Pine Apple Bush, that you felt _especially happy_, to wait till you +got to the Winding Way, to see how you would feel then!" The +imprisoned gentleman soon burst his bonds, not, however, without +damage to his indispensables; and at length forcing his way into +Relief Hall, he cried out, in the joy of his heart, while stretching +himself and wiping the perspiration from his jolly, rubicund face, +"never was a name more appropriate given to any place--Relief. I feel +already the _expansive faculty_ of the atmosphere, I can now breathe +again." + +Relief Hall, which you enter from the Winding Way, at a right-angle, +is very wide and lofty but not long; turning to the right, we reached +its termination at River Hall, a distance of perhaps, one hundred +yards. Here two routes present themselves; the one to the left +conducts to the Dead Sea and the Rivers, and that to the right, to the +Bacon Chamber, the Bandit's Hall, the Mammoth Dome and an infinity of +other caves, domes, etc. We will speak of the Bacon Chamber; but +before doing so, let us take our lunch. The air or exercise, or +probably both, acted as powerful appetizers, and we soon gave proof +that we needed not Stoughton's bitters to provoke an appetite. Having +discussed a few glasses of excellent Hock, we left the Bacon Chamber, +which is a pretty fair representation of a low ceiling, thickly hung +with canvassed hams and shoulders; and proceeded to the Bandit's Hall, +up a steep ascent of twenty or thirty feet, rendered very difficult, +by the huge rocks which obstructed the way and over which we were +forced to clamber. The name is indicative of the spot. It is a vast +and lofty chamber, the floor covered with a mountainous heap of rocks +rising amphitheatrically almost to the ceiling, and so disposed as to +furnish at different elevations, galleries or platforms, reaching +immediately around the chamber itself or leading off into some of its +hidden recesses. The guide is presently seen standing at a fearful +height above, and suddenly a Bengal light, blazes up, "when the rugged +roof, the frowning cliffs and the whole chaos of rocks are refulgent +in the brilliant glare." The sublimity of the scene is beyond the +powers of the imagination. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Mammoth Dome--First Discoverers--Little Dome--Tale of a Lamp--Return. + + +From the Bandit's Hall, diverge two caves; one of which, the left, +leads you to a multitude of domes; and the right, to one which, _par +excellence_, is called the Mammoth Dome. Taking the right, we arrived, +after a rugged walk of nearly a mile, to a platform, which commands an +indistinct view of this dome of domes. It was discovered by a German +gentleman and the guide Stephen about two years ago, but was not +explored until some months after, when it was visited by a party of +four or five, accompanied by two guides, and well prepared with ropes, +&c. From the platform, the guides were let down about twenty feet, by +means of a rope, and upon reaching the ground below, they found +themselves on the side of a hill, which, descending about fifty feet, +brought them immediately under the Great Dome, from the summit of +which, there is a water-fall. This dome is near four hundred feet +high, and is justly considered one of the most sublime and wonderful +spectacles of this most wonderful of caverns. From the bottom of the +dome they ascended the hill to the place to which they had been +lowered from the platform, and continuing thence up a very steep hill, +more than one hundred feet, they reached its summit. Arrived at the +summit, a scene of awful grandeur and magnificence is presented to the +view. Looking down the declivity, you see far below to the left, the +visiters whom you have left behind, standing on the platform or +termination of the avenue along which they had come; and lower down +still, the bottom of the Great Dome itself. Above, two hundred and +eighty feet, is the ceiling, lost in the obscurity of space and +distance. The height of the ceiling was determined by E.F. Lee, civil +engineer. This fact in regard to the elevation of the ceiling and the +locality of the Great Hall, was subsequently ascertained, by finding +on the summit of the hill, (a spot never before trodden by man,) an +iron lamp!! The astonishment of the guides, as well as of the whole +party, on beholding the lamp, can be easily imagined; and to this day +they would have been ignorant of its history, but for the accidental +circumstance of an old man being at the Cave Hotel, who, thirty years +ago, was engaged as a miner in the saltpetre establishment of Wilkins +& Gratz. He, on being shown the lamp, said at once, that it had been +found under the crevice pit (a fact that surprised all,); that during +the time Wilkins & Gratz were engaged in the manufacture of saltpetre, +a Mr. Gatewood informed Wilkins, that in all probability, the richest +nitre earth was under the crevice pit. The depth of this pit being +then unknown, Wilkins, to ascertain it, got a rope of 45 feet long, +and fastening this identical lamp to the end of it, lowered it into +the pit, in the doing of which, the string caught on fire, and down +fell the lamp. Wilkins made an offer of two dollars to any one of the +miners who would descend the pit and bring up the lamp. His offer was +accepted by a man, who, in consequence of his diminutive stature, was +nicknamed Little Dave; and the rope being made fast about his waist, +he, torch in hand, was lowered to the full extent of the forty-five +feet. Being then drawn up, the poor fellow was found to be so +excessively alarmed, that he could scarcely articulate; but having +recovered from his fright, and again with the full power of utterance, +he declared that no money could tempt him to try again for the lamp; +and in excuse for such a determination, he related the most marvellous +story of what he had seen--far exceeding the wonderful things which +the unexampled Don Quixote de la Mancha declared he had seen in the +deep cave of Montesinos. Dave was, in fact, suspended at the height of +two hundred and forty feet above the level below. Such is the history +of the _lamp_, as told by the old miner, Holton, the correctness of +which was very soon verified; for guides having been sent to the place +where the lamp was found, and persons at the same time stationed at +the mouth of the crevice pit, their proximity was at once made +manifest by the very audible sound of each other's voices, and by the +fact that sticks thrown into the pit fell at the feet of the guides +below, and were brought out by them. The distance from the mouth of +the Cave to this pit, falls short of half a mile; yet to reach the +grand apartment immediately under it, requires a circuit to be made of +at least three miles. The illumination of that portion of the Great +Dome on the left, and of the hall on the top of the hill to the right, +as seen from the platform, was unquestionably one of the most +impressive spectacles we had witnessed; but to be seen to advantage, +another position ought to be taken by the spectator, and the dome with +its towering height, and the hall on the summit of the hill, with its +gigantic stalagmite columns, and ceiling two hundred feet high, +illuminated by the simultaneous ignition of a number of Bengal lights, +judiciously arranged. Such was the enthusiastic admiration of some +foreigners on witnessing an illumination of the Great Dome and Hall, +that they declared, it alone would compensate for a voyage across the +Atlantic. With the partial illumination of the Great Dome, we closed +our explorations on this side of the rivers, and retracing our steps, +reached the hotel about sun-set. At mid-night, the party which +separated from us at the entrance of Pensico Avenue, returned from the +points beyond the Echo river. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Third Visit--River Hall--Dead Sea--River Styx--Lethe--Echo River-- +Purgatory--Eyeless Fish--Supposed Boil of the Rivers--Sources and +Outlet Unknown. + + +Early the next morning, having made all the necessary preparations for +the grand tour, which we were the more anxious to take from the +glowing accounts of the party recently returned, we entered the cave +immediately after an early breakfast, and proceeded rapidly on to +River Hall. It was evident from the appearance of the flood here, that +it had been recently overflown. + +[Illustration: RIVER SCENE. +On Stone by T. Campbell +Bauer & Teschemacher's Lith.] + +"The cave, or the River Hall," remarks a fair and distinguished +authoress, whose description of the river scenery is so graphic, that +I cannot do better than transcribe it throughout: "The River Hall +descends like the slope of a mountain; the ceiling stretches +away--away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at midnight." +Going on, and gradually ascending and keeping close to the right hand +wall, you observe on your left "a steep precipice, over which you can +look down by the aid of blazing missiles, upon a broad black sheet of +water, eighty feet below, called the Dead Sea. This is an awfully +impressive place; the sights and sounds of which, do not easily pass +from memory. He who has seen it, will have it vividly brought before +him, by Alfieri's description of Filippo, 'only a transient word or +act gives us a short and dubious glimmer, that reveals to us the +abysses of his being--dark, lurid and terrific, as the throat of the +infernal pool.' Descending from the eminence, by a ladder of about +twenty feet, we find ourselves among piles of gigantic rocks, and one +of the most picturesque sights in the world, is to see a file of men +and women passing along those wild and scraggy paths, moving +slowly--slowly, that their lamps may have time to illuminate their +sky-like ceiling and gigantic walls--disappearing behind high +cliffs--sinking into ravines--their lights shining upwards through +fissures in the rocks--then suddenly emerging from some abrupt angle, +standing in the bright gleam of their lamps, relieved by the towering +black masses around them. He, who could paint the infinite variety of +creation, can alone give an adequate idea of this marvellous region. +As you pass along, you hear the roar of invisible waterfalls; and at +the foot of the slope, the river Styx lies before you, deep and black, +overarched with rock. The first glimpse of it brings to mind, the +descent of Ulysses into hell, + + "Where the dark rock o'erhangs the infernal lake, + And mingling streams eternal murmurs make." + +Across (or rather down) these unearthly waters, the guide can convey +but four passengers at once. The lamps are fastened to the prow; the +images of which, are reflected in the dismal pool. If you are +impatient of delay, or eager for new adventures, you can leave your +companions lingering about the shore, and cross the Styx by a +dangerous bridge of precipices overhead. In order to do this, you must +ascend a steep cliff, and enter a cave above, 300 yards long, from an +egress of which, you find yourself on the bank of the river, eighty +feet above its surface, commanding a view of those in the boat, and +those waiting on the shore. Seen from this height, the lamps in the +canoe glare like fiery eye-balls; and the passengers, sitting there so +hushed and motionless, look like shadows. The scene is so strangely +funereal and spectral, that it seems as if the Greeks must have +witnessed it, before they imagined Charon conveying ghosts to the dim +regions of Pluto. Your companions thus seen, do indeed-- + + "Skim along the dusky glades, + Thin airy souls, and visionary shades." + +If you turn your eyes from the canoe to the parties of men and women +whom you left waiting on the shore, you will see them by the gleam of +their lamps, scattered in picturesque groups, looming out in bold +relief from the dense darkness around them. + +Having passed the Styx, (much the smallest of the rivers,) you walk +over a pile of large rocks, and are on the banks of Lethe; and looking +back, you will see a line of men and women descending the high hill +from the cave, which runs _over_ the river Styx. Here are two boats, +and the parties, which have come by the two routes, _down_ the Styx or +_over_ it, uniting, descend the Lethe about a quarter of a mile, the +ceiling for the entire distance being very high--certainly not less +than fifty feet. On landing, you enter a level and lofty hall, called +the Great Walk, which stretches to the banks of the Echo, a distance +of three or four hundred yards. The Echo is truly a river: it is wide +and deep enough, at all times, to float the largest steamer. At the +point of embarkation, the arch is very low, not more than three feet, +in an ordinary stage of water, being left for a boat to pass through. +Passengers, of course, are obliged to double up, and lie upon each +others shoulders, in a most uncomfortable way, but their suffering is +of short duration; in two boat lengths, they emerge to where the vault +of the cave is lofty and wide. The boat in which we embarked was +sufficiently large to carry twelve persons, and our voyage down the +river was one of deep, indeed of most intense interest. The novelty, +the grandeur, the magnificence of every thing around elicited +unbounded admiration and wonder. All sense of danger, (had any been +experienced before,) was lost in the solemn, quiet sublimity of the +scene. The rippling of the water caused by the motion of our boat is +heard afar off, beating under the low arches and in the cavities of +the rocks. The report of a pistol is as that of the heaviest +artillery, and long and afar does the echo resound, like the muttering +of distant thunder. The voice of song was raised on this dark, deep +water, and the sound was as that of the most powerful choir. A fall +band of music on this river of echoes would indeed be overpowering. +The aquatic excursion was more to our taste than any thing we had +seen, and never can the impression it made be obliterated from our +memories. + +The Echo is three quarters of a mile long. A rise of the water of +merely a few feet connects the three rivers. After long and heavy +rains, these rivers sometimes rise to a perpendicular height of more +than fifty feet; and then they, as well as the cataracts, exhibit a +most terrific appearance. The low arch at the entrance of the Echo, +can not be passed when there is a rise of water of even two feet. Once +or twice parties have been caught on the further side by a sudden +rise, and for a time their alarm was great, not knowing that there was +an upper cave through which they could pass, that would lead them +around the arch to the Great Walk. This upper cave, or passage, is +called Purgatory, and is, for a distance of forty feet, so low, that +persons have to crawl on their faces, or, as the guides say, _snake +it_. We were pleased to learn that this passage would soon be +sufficiently enlarged to enable persons to walk through erect. This +accomplished, an excursion to Cleveland's Avenue may be made almost +entirely by land, at the same time that all apprehensions of being +caught beyond Echo will be removed. It is in these rivers, that the +extraordinary white eyeless fish are caught--we secured two of them. +There is not the slightest indication of an organ similar to an eye, +to be discovered. They have been dissected by skillful anatomists, who +declare that they are not only without eyes, but also develope other +anomalies in their organization, singularly interesting to the +naturalist. "The rivers of Mammoth Cave were never crossed till 1840. +Great efforts have been made to discover whence they come and whither +they go, yet they still remain as much a mystery as ever--without +beginning or end; like eternity." + + "Darkly thou glidest onward, + Thou deep and hidden wave! + The laughing sunshine hath not look'd + Into thy secret cave. + + Thy current makes no music-- + A hollow sound we hear; + A muffled voice of mystery, + And know that thou art near. + + No brighter line of verdure + Follows thy lonely way + No fairy moss, or lily's cup, + Is freshened by thy play." + +According to the barometrical measurement of Professor Locke, the +rivers of the Cave are nearly on a level with Green River; but the +report of Mr. Lee, civil engineer, is widely different. He says, "The +bottom of the Little Bat Room Pit is one hundred and twenty feet +_below_ the bed of Green River. The Bottomless Pit is also deeper than +the bed of Green River, and so far as a surveyor's level can be relied +on, the same may be said of the Cavern Pit and some others." The +rivers of the Cave were unknown at the time of Mr. Lee's visit in +1835, but they are unquestionably _lower_ than the bottom of the pits, +and receive the water which flows from them. According to the +statement of Lee, the bed of these rivers is lower than the bed of +Green River at its junction with the Ohio, taking for granted that the +report of the State engineers as to the extent of fall between a point +above the Cave and the Ohio, be correct, of which there is no doubt. +"It becomes, then," continues Mr. Lee, in reference to the waters of +the Cave, "an object of interesting inquiry to determine in what way +it is disposed of. If it empties into Green River, the Ohio, or the +ocean, it must run a great distance under ground, with a very small +descent." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +Pass of El Ghor--Silliman's Avenue--Wellington's Gallery--Sulphur +Spring--Mary's Vineyard--Holy Sepulchre--Commencement of Cleveland +Avenue--By whom Discovered--Beautiful Formations--Snow-ball Room-- +Rocky Mountains--Croghan's Hall--Serena's Arbor--Dining Table-- +Dinner Party and Toast--Hoax of the Guide--Homeward Bound Passage-- +Conclusion. + + +Having now left the Echo, we have a walk of four miles to Cleveland's +Avenue. The intervening points are of great interest; but it would +occupy too much time to describe them. We will therefore hurry on +through the pass of El Ghor, Silliman's Avenue, and Wellington's +Gallery, to the foot of the ladder which leads up to the Elysium of +Mammoth cave. And here, for the benefit of the weary and thirsty, and +of all others whom it may interest, coming after us, be it known, that +Carneal's Spring is close at hand, and equally near, a sulphur spring, +the water of which, equals in quality and quantity that of the +far-famed White Sulphur Spring, of Virginia. At the head of the +ladder, you find yourself surrounded by overhanging stalactites, in +the form of rich clusters of grapes, hard as flint, and round and +polished, as if done by a sculptor's hand. This is called Mary's +Vineyard--the commencement of Cleveland's Avenue, the crowning wonder +and glory of this subterranean world. Proceeding to the right about, a +hundred feet from this spot, over a rough and rather difficult way, +you reach the base of the height or hill, on which, stands the Holy +Sepulchre. This interesting spot is reached at some hazard, as the +ascent, which is very steep, and more than twenty feet high, affords +no secure footing, owing to the loose and shingly character of the +surface, until the height is gained. Having achieved this, you stand +immediately at the beautiful door-way of the Chapel, or anteroom of +the Sepulchre. This Chapel, which is, perhaps, twelve feet square, +with a low ceiling, and decorated in the most gorgeous manner, with +well-arranged draperies of stalactite of every imaginable shape, leads +you to the room of the Holy Sepulchre adjoining, which is without +ornament or decoration of any kind; exhibiting nothing but dark and +bare walls--like a charnel house. In the centre of this room, which +stands a few feet below the Chapel, is, to all appearance, a grave, +hewn out of the living rock. This is the Holy Sepulchre. A Roman +Catholic priest discovered it about three years ago, and with fervent +enthusiasm exclaimed, "The Holy Sepulchre!" a name which it has since +borne. Returning from the Holy Sepulchre, we commence our wanderings +through Cleveland's Avenue--an avenue three miles long, seventy feet +wide, and twelve or fifteen feet high--an avenue more rich and +gorgeous than any ever revealed to man--an avenue abounding in +formations such as are no where else to be seen, and which the most +stupid observer could not behold without feelings of wonder and +admiration. Some of the formations in the avenue, have been +denominated by Professor Locke, oulophilites, or curled leafed stone; +and in remarking upon them, he says, "They are unlike any thing yet +discovered; equally beautiful for the cabinet of the amateur, and +interesting to the geological philosopher." And I, although a wanderer +myself in various climes, and somewhat of a mineralogist withal, have +never seen or heard of such. Apprehensive that I might, in attempting +to describe much that I have seen, color too highly, I will, in lieu +thereof, offer the remarks of an intelligent clergyman, extracted from +the New York Christian Observer, of a recent date: "The most +imaginative poet never conceived or painted a palace of such exquisite +beauty and loveliness, as Cleveland's Cabinet, into which you now +pass. Were the wealth of princes bestowed on the most skilful +lapidaries, with the view of rivaling the splendors of this single +chamber, the attempt would be vain. How then can I hope to give you a +conception of it? You must see it; and you will then feel that all +attempt at description, is futile." The Cabinet was discovered by Mr. +Patten, of Louisville, and Mr. Craig, of Philadelphia, accompanied by +the guide Stephen, and extends in nearly a direct line about one and a +half miles, (the guides say two miles.) It is a perfect arch, of fifty +feet span, and of an average height of ten feet in the centre--just +high enough to be viewed with ease in all its parts. It is incrusted +from end to end with the most beautiful formations, in every variety +of form. The base of the whole, is carbonate (sulphate) of lime, in +part of dazzling whiteness, and perfectly smooth, and in other places +crystallized so as to glitter like diamonds in the light. Growing from +this, in endlessly diversified forms, is a substance resembling +selenite, translucent and imperfectly laminated. It is most probably +sulphate of lime, (a gypsum,) combined with sulphate of magnesia. Some +of the crystals bear a striking resemblance to branches of celery, and +all about the same length; while others, a foot or more in length, +have the color and appearance of _vanilla cream candy_; others are set +in sulphate of lime, in the form of a rose; and others still roll out +from the base, in forms resembling the ornaments on the capitol of a +Corinthian column. (You see how I am driven for analogies.) Some of +the incrustations are massive and splendid; others are as delicate as +the lily, or as fancy-work of shell or wax. Think of traversing an +arched way like this for a mile and a half, and all the wonders of the +tales of youth--"Arabian Nights," and all--seem tame, compared with +the living, growing reality. Yes, _growing_ reality; for the process +is going on before your eyes. Successive coats of these incrustations, +have been perfected and crowded off by others; so that hundreds of +tons of these gems lie at your feet, and are crushed as you pass, +while the work of restoring the ornaments for nature's _boudoir_, is +proceeding around you. Here and there, through the whole extent, you +will find openings in the sides, into which you may thrust the person, +and often stand erect in little grottoes, perfectly incrusted with a +delicate white substance, reflecting the light from a thousand +glittering points. All the way you might have heard us exclaiming, +"Wonderful, wonderful! O, Lord, how manifold are thy works!" With +general unity of form and appearance, there is considerable variety in +"the Cabinet." The "_Snow-ball Room_," for example, is a section of +the cave described above, some 200 feet in length, entirely different +from the adjacent parts; its appearance being aptly indicated by its +name. If a hundred rude school boys had but an hour before completed +their day's sport, by throwing a thousand snow-balls against the roof, +while an equal number were scattered about the floor, and all +petrified, it would have presented precisely such a scene as you +witness in this room of nature's frolics. So far as I know, these +"snow-balls" are a perfect anomaly among all the strange forms of +crystalization. It is the result, I presume, of an unusual combination +of the sulphates of lime and magnesia, with a carbonate of the former. +We found here and elsewhere in the Cabinet, fine specimens of the +sulphate of Magnesia, (or Epsom salts,) a foot or two long, and three +inches in thickness. + +Leaving the quiet and beautiful "Cabinet," you come suddenly upon the +"Rocky Mountains," furnishing a contrast so bold and striking, as +almost to startle you. Clambering up the rough side some thirty feet, +you pass close under the roof of the cavern you have left, and find +before you an immense transverse cave, 100 feet or more from the +ceiling to the floor, with a huge pile of rocks half filling the +hither side--they were probably dashed from the roof in the great +earthquake of 1811. Taking the left hand branch, you are soon brought +to "Croghan's Hall," which is nine miles from the mouth, and is the +farthest point explored in that direction. The "Hall" is 50 or 60 feet +in diameter, and perhaps, thirty-five feet high, of a semi-circular +form. Fronting you as you enter, are massive stalactites, ten or +fifteen feet in length, attached to the rock, like sheets of ice, and +of a brilliant color. The rock projects near the floor, and then +recedes with a regular and graceful curve, or swell, leaving a cavity +of several feet in width between it and the floor. At intervals, +around this swell, stalactites of various forms are suspended, and +behind the sheet of stalactites first described, are numerous +stalagmites, in fanciful forms. I brought one away that resembles the +horns of the deer, being nearly translucent. In the centre of this +hall, a very large stalactite hangs from the roof; and a corresponding +stalagmite rises from the floor, about three feet in height and a foot +in diameter, of an amber color, perfectly smooth and translucent, like +the other formations. On the right, is a deep pit, down which the +water dashes from a cascade that pours from the roof. Other avenues +could most likely be found by sounding the sides of the pit, if any +one had the courage to attempt the descent. We are far enough from +_terra supra_, and our dinner which we had left at the "Vineyard." We +hastened back to the Rocky Mountains, and took the branch which we +left at our right on emerging from the Cabinet. Pursuing the uneven +path for some distance, we reached "Serena's Arbor," which was +discovered but three months since, by our guide "Mat." The descent to +the Arbor seemed so perilous, from the position of the loose rocks +around, that several of the party would not venture. Those of us who +scrambled down regarded this as the crowning object of interest. The +"Arbor" is not more than twelve feet in diameter, and of about the +same height, of a circular form; but is, of itself, floor, sides, +roof, and ornaments, one perfect, seamless stalactite, of a beautiful +hue, and exquisite workmanship. Folds or blades of stalactitic matter +hang like drapery around the sides, reaching half way to the floor; +and opposite the door, a canopy of stone projects, elegantly +ornamented, as if it were the resting-place of a fairy bride. Every +thing seemed fresh and new; indeed, the invisible architect has not +quite finished this master-piece; for you can see the pure water, +trickling down its tiny channels and perfecting the delicate points of +some of the stalactites. Victoria, with all her splendor, has not in +Windsor Castle, so beautiful an apartment as "Serena's Arbor." + +Such is the description of Cleveland's Avenue, as given by this +clerical gentleman. It is perfectly graphic, and corresponds with all +the glowing accounts I have read of this famous place. Exquisitely +beautiful and rare as are the formations in this avenue, it will soon +be, I fear, like the Grotto of Pensico--shorn of its beauties. Many a +little Miss, to decorate her centre table or boudoir, and many a +thoughtless dandy to present a specimen to his lady fair, have broken +from the walls (regardless of the published rules prohibiting it,) +those lovely productions of the Almighty, which required ages to +perfect; thus destroying in a moment the work of centuries. These +beautiful and gorgeous formations were encrusted on the walls by the +hands of our Maker, and who so impious as to desecrate them--to tear +them from their place? there they are, all lovely and beautiful, and +there they ought to remain, _untouched_ by the hands of man, for the +admiration and wonder of all future ages. If the comparatively small +cave of Adelburg which belongs to the Emperor of Austria, be placed +for the preservation of its formations under the protecting care of +the government [Transcriber's note: sic] (as is the case,) what ought +not to be done to preserve the mineralogical treasures, in this great +Cave of America, and especially in Cleveland's Cabinet, which are +worth more than all the caves in Europe, indeed of the world, so far +as our knowledge of caverns extends. + +Returning from Serena's Arbor, we passed on our left the mouth of an +avenue more than three miles long, lofty and wide, and at its +termination there is a hall, which in the opinion of the guide is +larger than any other in the Cave. It is as yet without a name. +Equidistant from the commencement and the termination of Cleveland's +Avenue, is a huge rock, nearly circular, flat on the top and three +feet high. This is the "_dining table_." More than one hundred persons +could be seated around this table; on it the guide arranged our +dinner, and we luxuriated on "flesh and fowl" and "choice old sherry." +Never did a set of fellows enjoy dinner more than we did ours. Our +friend B. was perfectly at his ease and happy; and, in the exuberance +of his spirits, proposed the following toast: + + "Prosperity to the subterranean territory of Cimmeria; large + enough, if not populous enough, for admission into the Union as + an independent State." + +We emptied our glasses and gave nine hearty cheers in honor of the +sentiment. A proposition was made to adjourn, but B. was not inclined +to locomotion, and opposed it with great warmth, insisting that it was +too soon to move after such a dinner, and that a state of rest was +absolutely essential to healthy digestion. We had much argument on the +motion to adjourn; when our sagacious guide Stephen, with a meaning +look interposed, saying "we had as well be going, for the river might +take a rise and shut us up here." "What!" exclaimed B. in utter +consternation, and with a start, literally bouncing from his seat, +cried aloud "Let's be off!" at the same time suiting the action to the +word. In a second we were all in motion, and hurrying past beautiful +incrustations, through galleries long and tortuous, down one hill and +up another, (poor B. puffing and blowing, and all the while exclaiming +against the _terrible_ length and ruggedness of the way,) we at last +reached the Echo, which we found to our great relief had _not risen_. +It seems, the guide had used this stratagem for our own advantage, to +break off our banquet, lest it trenched too far upon the night. We +were too happy in having our fears relieved, to fall out with him. On +our homeward bound passage over the rivers, our admiration was rather +increased than diminished. The death-like stillness! the awful +silence! the wild grandeur and sublimity of the scene, tranquilizing +the feeling and disposing to pensive musings and quiet contemplation; +on a sudden a pistol is fired--a tremendous report ensues--its echoes +are heard reverberating from wall to wall, in caves far away, like the +low murmuring sound of distant thunder--the spell of silence and deep +reverie is broken--we become roused and animated, and the mighty +cavern resounds with our song. We believe every one will, under +similar circumstances, experience this sudden transition from pensive +musings to joyous hilarity. Leaving the rivers, we hastened onward to +the outlet to the upper world. Far ahead we perceive the first +_dawnings of day_, shining with a silvery pallid hue on the walls, and +increasing in brightness as we advance, until it bursts forth in all +the golden rays and glorious effulgence of the setting sun. This +_parting_ scene is lovely and interesting. We bid adieu to the "Great +Monarch of Caves." We here terminate our subterranean tour. Standing +on the grassy terrace above, we inhale the cool, pure air, and take a +last look at the "great Wonder of Wonders!" To all we would say "go +and see--explore the greatest of the Almighty's subterranean works." +No description can give you an idea of it--neither can inspection of +other caves; it is "the Monarch of Caves!" none that have ever been +measured can at all compare with it, in extent, in grandeur, in wild, +solemn, serene, unadorned majesty; it stands entirely alone.--"It has +no brother; it has no brother." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rambles in the Mammoth Cave, during +the Year 1844, by Alexander Clark Bullitt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE *** + +***** This file should be named 16220.txt or 16220.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/2/2/16220/ + +Produced by Aaron Reed and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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