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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific
+
+Author: Gabriel Franchere
+
+Release Date: May 27, 2005 [EBook #15911]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Lybarger and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Because this is a personal narrative,
+inconsistencies in spelling, hyphenation, capitalization, and
+italicization have been preserved in cases where it is not clearly an
+error from the original printing.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ASTORIA, AS IT WAS IN 1813.]
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA
+
+IN THE YEARS 1811, 1812, 1813, AND 1814
+
+OR
+
+THE FIRST AMERICAN SETTLEMENT ON THE PACIFIC
+
+
+BY GABRIEL FRANCHERE
+
+TRANSLATED AND EDITED BY J.V. HUNTINGTON
+
+
+
+REDFIELD
+110 AND 112 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK
+
+1854.
+
+
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854,
+
+BY J.S. REDFIELD,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and
+for the Southern District of New York.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+In 1846, when the boundary question (that of the Oregon Territory in
+particular) was at its height, the Hon. THOMAS H. BENTON delivered in
+the United States Senate a decisive speech, of which the following is an
+extract:--
+
+"Now for the proof of all I have said. I happen to have in my possession
+the book of all others, which gives the fullest and most authentic
+details on all the points I have mentioned--a book written at a time,
+and under circumstances, when the author (himself a British subject and
+familiar on the Columbia) had no more idea that the British would lay
+claim to that river, than Mr. Harmon, the American writer whom I
+quoted, ever thought of our claiming New Caledonia. It is the work of
+Mr. FRANCHERE, a gentleman of Montreal, with whom I have the pleasure to
+be personally acquainted, and one of those employed by Mr. ASTOR in
+founding his colony. He was at the founding of ASTORIA, at its sale to
+the Northwest Company, saw the place seized as a British conquest, and
+continued there after its seizure. He wrote in French: his work has not
+been done into English, though it well deserves it; and I read from the
+French text. He gives a brief and true account of the discovery of the
+Columbia."
+
+I felt justly proud of this notice of my unpretending work, especially
+that the latter should have contributed, as it did, to the amicable
+settlement of the then pending difficulties. I have flattered myself
+ever since, that it belonged to the historical literature of the great
+country, which by adoption has become mine.
+
+The re-perusal of "Astoria" by WASHINGTON IRVING (1836) inspired me with
+an additional motive for giving my book in an English dress. Without
+disparagement to Mr. IRVING'S literary, fame, I may venture to say that
+I found in his work inaccuracies, misstatements (unintentional of
+course), and a want of chronological order, which struck forcibly one so
+familiar with the events themselves. I thought I could show--or rather
+that my simple narration, of itself, plainly discovered--that some of
+the young men embarked in that expedition (which founded our Pacific
+empire), did not merit the ridicule and contempt which Captain THORN
+attempted to throw upon them, and which perhaps, through the genius of
+Mr. IRVING, might otherwise remain as a lasting stigma on their
+characters.
+
+But the consideration which, before all others, prompts me to offer this
+narrative to the American reading public, is my desire to place before
+them, therein, a simple and connected account (which at this time ought
+to be interesting), of the early settlement of the Oregon Territory by
+one of our adopted citizens, the enterprising merchant JOHN JACOB ASTOR.
+The importance of a vast territory, which at no distant day may add two
+more bright stars to our national banner, is a guarantee that my humble
+effort will be appreciated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NOTE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+It has been the editor's wish to let Mr. Franchere speak for himself. To
+preserve in the translation the Defoe-like simplicity of the original
+narrative of the young French Canadian, has been his chief care. Having
+read many narratives of travel and adventure in our northwestern
+wilderness, he may be permitted to say that he has met with none that
+gives a more vivid and picturesque description of it, or in which the
+personal adventures of the narrator, and the varying fortunes of a great
+enterprise, mingle more happily, and one may say, more dramatically,
+with the itinerary. The clerkly minuteness of the details is not
+without its charm either, and their fidelity speaks for itself. Take it
+altogether, it must be regarded as a fragment of our colonial history
+saved from oblivion; it fills up a vacuity which Mr. IRVING'S classic
+work does not quite supply; it is, in fact, the only account by an
+eye-witness and a participator in the enterprise, of the first attempt
+to form a settlement on the Pacific under the stars and stripes.
+
+The editor has thought it would be interesting to add Mr. Franchere's
+Preface to the original French edition, which will be found on the next
+page.
+
+BALTIMORE, _February 6, 1854_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE FRENCH EDITION.
+
+
+When I was writing my journal on the vessel which carried me to the
+northwest coast of North America, or in the wild regions of this
+continent, I was far from thinking that it would be placed one day
+before the public eye. I had no other end in writing, but to procure to
+my family and my friends a more exact and more connected detail of what
+I had seen or learned in the course of my travels, than it would have
+been possible for me to give them in a _viva voce_ narration. Since my
+return to my native city, my manuscript has passed into various hands
+and has been read by different persons: several of my friends
+immediately advised me to print it; but it is only quite lately that I
+have allowed myself to be persuaded, that without being a learned
+naturalist, a skilful geographer, or a profound moralist, a traveller
+may yet interest by the faithful and succinct account of the situations
+in which he has found himself, the adventures which have happened to
+him, and the incidents of which he has been a witness; that if a simple
+ingenuous narrative, stripped of the merit of science and the graces of
+diction, must needs be less enjoyed by the man of letters or by the
+_savant_, it would have, in compensation, the advantage of being at the
+level of a greater number of readers; in fine, that the desire of
+affording an entertainment to his countrymen, according to his capacity,
+and without any mixture of the author's vanity or of pecuniary interest,
+would be a well-founded title to their indulgence. Whether I have done
+well or ill in yielding to these suggestions, which I am bound to regard
+as those of friendship, or of good-will, it belongs to the impartial and
+disinterested reader, to decide.
+
+MONTREAL, 1819.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Departure from Montreal.--Arrival in New York.--Description of
+that City.--Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Departure from New York.--Reflections of the Author.--Navigation,
+falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrival at the Falkland Isles.--Landing.--Perilous Situation of the
+Author and some of his Companions.--Portrait of Captain Thorn.--Cape
+Horn.--Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Accident.--View of the Coast.--Attempted Visit of the Natives.--Their
+Industry.--Bay of Karaka-koua.--Landing on the Island.--John Young,
+Governor of Owahee.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Bay of Ohetity.--Tamehameha, King of the Island.--His Visit to the
+Ship.--His Capital.--His Naval Force.--His Authority.--Productions of
+the Country.--Manners and Customs.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Departure from Wahoo.--Storm.--Arrival at the Mouth of the
+Columbia.--Reckless Order of the Captain.--Difficulty of the
+Entrance.--Perilous Situation of the Ship.--Unhappy Fate of a Part
+of the Crew and People of the Expedition.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.--Obsequies
+of a Sandwich-Islander.--First Steps in the Formation of the intended
+Establishment.--New Alarm.--Encampment.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Voyage up the River.--Description of the Country.--Meeting with
+strange Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Departure of the Tonquin.--Indian Messengers.--Project of an Expedition
+to the Interior.--Arrival of Mr. Daniel Thompson.--Departure of the
+Expedition.--Designs upon us by the Natives.--Rumors of the Destruction
+of the Tonquin.--Scarcity of Provisions.--Narrative of a strange
+Indian.--Duplicity and Cunning of Comcomly.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Occupation at Astoria.--Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+Expedition to the Interior.--New Expedition.--Excursion in Search
+of three Deserters.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.--Occupations at
+Astoria.--Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+M'Lellan.--Account of their Journey.--Arrival of Mr. Wilson P. Hunt.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Arrival of the Ship Beaver.--Unexpected Return of Messrs. D. Stuart,
+B. Stuart, M'Lelland, &c.--Cause of that Return.--Ship discharging.--New
+Expeditions.--Hostile Attitude of the Natives.--Departure of the
+Beaver.--Journeys of the Author.--His Occupations at the Establishment.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Uneasiness respecting the "Beaver."--News of the Declaration of
+War between Great Britain and the United States.--Consequences
+of that Intelligence.--Different Occurrences.--Arrival of two
+Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Preparations for abandoning the
+Country.--Postponement of Departure.--Arrangement-with Mr. J.G. M'Tavish.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Arrival of the Ship "Albatross."--Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+the Beaver at Astoria.--Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a Former
+Occasion.--Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the Resolution of
+the Partners.--His Departure.--Narrative of the Destruction of the
+Tonquin.--Causes of that Disaster.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Sale of the
+Establishment at Astoria to that Company.--Canadian News.--Arrival of
+the British Sloop-of-War "Raccoon."--Accident on Board that Vessel.--The
+Captain takes Formal Possession of Astoria.--Surprise and Discontent of
+the Officers And Crew.--Departure of the "Raccoon."
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Expeditions to the Interior.--Return of Messrs. John Stuart and
+D. M'Kenzie.--Theft committed by the Natives.--War Party against
+the Thieves.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Description of Tongue Point.--A Trip to the _Willamet_.--Arrival
+of W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.--Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+Lark.--Preparations for crossing the Continent.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Situation of the Columbia River.--Qualities of its Soil.--Climate,
+&c.--Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.--Their Wars.--Their
+Marriages.--Medicine Men.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Religious
+Notions.--Language.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+Departure from Astoria Or Fort George.--Accident.--Passage of
+the Dalles or Narrows.--Great Columbian Desert.--Aspect of the
+Country.--Wallawalla and Sha-aptin Rivers.--Rattlesnakes.--Some
+Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.--Her Narrative.--Reflections of
+the Author.--Priest's Rapid.--River Okenakan.--Kettle Falls.--Pine
+Moss.--Scarcity of Food.--Rivers, Lakes, &c.--Accident.--A
+Rencontre.--First View of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+Course of the Columbian River.--Canoe River.--Foot-march toward the
+Rocky Mountains.--Passage of the Mountains.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.--Description of this
+Post.--Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.--Mountain Sheep,
+&c.--Continuation of the Journey.--Unhappy Accident.--Reflections.--News
+from Canada.--Hunter's Lodge.--Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+Red Deer Lake.--Antoine Déjarlais.--Beaver River.--N. Nadeau.--Moose
+River.--Bridge Lake.--Saskatchawine River.--Fort Vermilion.--Mr.
+Hallet.--Trading-Houses.--Beautiful Country.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+Fort Montée.--Cumberland House.--Lake Bourbon.--Great Winipeg
+Rapids.--Lake Winipeg.--Trading-House.--Lake of the Woods.--Rainy
+Lake House, &c.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+Arrival at Fort William.--Description of that Post--News from the
+River Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+Departure from Fort William.--Navigation on Lake Superior.--Michipicoton
+Bay.--Meeting a Canoe.--Batchawainon Bay.--Arrival at Saut Ste.
+Marie.--Occurrences there.--Departure.--Lake Huron.--French
+River.--Lake Nipissing.--Ottawa River.--Kettle Falls.--Rideau
+River.--Long-Saut.--Arrival in Montreal.--Conclusion.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.--Correction of
+Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+Mr. Seton's Adventures.--Survivors of the Expedition in
+1851.--Author's Protest against some Expressions in Mr. Irving's
+"Astoria."--Editor's Note.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Since the independence of the United States of America, the merchants of
+that industrious and enterprising nation have carried on an extremely
+advantageous commerce on the northwest coast of this continent. In the
+course of their voyages they have made a great number of discoveries
+which they have not thought proper to make public; no doubt to avoid
+competition in a lucrative business.
+
+In 1792, Captain Gray, commanding the ship Columbia of Boston,
+discovered in latitude 46° 19" north, the entrance of a great bay on the
+Pacific coast. He sailed into it, and having perceived that it was the
+outlet or estuary of a large river, by the fresh water which he found
+at a little distance from the entrance, he continued his course upward
+some eighteen miles, and dropped anchor on the left bank, at the opening
+of a deep bay. There he made a map or rough sketch of what he had seen
+of this river (accompanied by a written description of the soundings,
+bearings, &c.); and having finished his traffic with the natives (the
+object of his voyage to these parts), he put out to sea, and soon after
+fell in with Captain Vancouver, who was cruising by order of the British
+government, to seek new discoveries. Mr. Gray acquainted him with the
+one he had just made, and even gave him a copy of the chart he had drawn
+up. Vancouver, who had just driven off a colony of Spaniards established
+on the coast, under the command of Señor Quadra (England and Spain being
+then at war), despatched his first-lieutenant Broughton, who ascended
+the river in boats some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and fifty
+miles, took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic
+majesty, giving the river the name of the _Columbia_, and to the bay
+where the American captain stopped, that of _Gray's bay_. Since that
+period the country had been seldom visited (till 1811), and chiefly by
+American ships.
+
+Sir Alexander McKenzie, in his second overland voyage, tried to reach
+the western ocean by the Columbia river, and thought he had succeeded
+when he came out six degrees farther north, at the bottom of Puget's
+sound, by another river.[A] In 1805, the American government sent
+Captains Lewis and Clark, with about thirty men, including some Kentucky
+hunters, on an overland journey to the mouth of the Columbia. They
+ascended the Missouri, crossed the mountains at the source of that
+river, and following the course of the Columbia, reached the shores of
+the Pacific, where they were forced to winter. The report which they
+made of their expedition to the United States government created a
+lively sensation.[B]
+
+[Footnote A: McKenzie's Travels.]
+
+[Footnote B: Lewis and Clark's Report.]
+
+Mr. John Jacob Astor, a New York merchant, who conducted almost alone
+the trade in furs south of the great lakes Huron and Superior, and who
+had acquired by that commerce a prodigious fortune, thought to augment
+it by forming on the banks of the Columbia an establishment of which the
+principal or supply factory should be at the mouth of that river. He
+communicated his views to the agents of the Northwest Company; he was
+even desirous of forming the proposed establishment in concert with
+them; but after some negotiations, the inland or wintering partners of
+that association of fur-traders having rejected the plan, Mr. Astor
+determined to make the attempt alone. He needed for the success of his
+enterprise, men long versed in the Indian trade, and he soon found them.
+Mr. Alexander M'Kay (the same who had accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie
+in his travels overland), a bold and enterprising man, left the
+Northwest Company to join him; and soon after, Messrs Duncan M'Dougal
+and Donald M'Kenzie (also in the service of the company) and Messrs.
+David Stuart and Robert Stuart, all of Canada, did the same. At length,
+in the winter of 1810, a Mr. Wilson Price Hunt of St. Louis, on the
+Mississippi, having also joined them, they determined that the
+expedition should be set on foot in the following spring.
+
+It was in the course of that winter that one of my friends made me
+acquainted in confidence with the plan of these gentlemen, under the
+injunction of strictest secrecy. The desire of seeing strange countries,
+joined to that of acquiring a fortune, determined me to solicit
+employment of the new association; on the 20th of May I had an interview
+with Mr. A. M'Kay, with whom the preliminaries were arranged; and on the
+24th of the same month I signed an agreement as an apprenticed clerk for
+the term of five years.
+
+When the associates had engaged a sufficient number of Canadian boatmen,
+they equipped a bark canoe under charge of Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie,
+with a Mr. Perrault as clerk, and a crew of fourteen men. These
+gentlemen were to proceed to Mackinaw, and thence to St. Louis, hiring
+on the way as many men as they could to man the canoes, in which, from
+the last-mentioned port, they were to ascend the Missouri to its source,
+and there diverging from the route followed by Lewis and Clark, reach
+the mouth of the Columbia to form a junction with another party, who
+were to go round by way of Cape Horn. In the course of my narrative I
+shall have occasion to speak of the success of both these expeditions.
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     Departure from Montreal.--Arrival in New York.--Description of that
+     City.--Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.
+
+
+We remained in Montreal the rest of the spring and a part of the summer.
+At last, having completed our arrangements for the journey, we received
+orders to proceed, and on the 26th of July, accompanied by my father and
+brothers and a few friends, I repaired to the place of embarkation,
+where was prepared a birch bark canoe, manned by nine Canadians, having
+Mr. A. M'Kay as commander, and a Mr. A. Fisher as passenger. The
+sentiments which I experienced at that moment would be as difficult for
+me to describe as they were painful to support; for the first time in my
+life I quitted the place of my birth, and was separated from beloved
+parents and intimate friends, having for my whole consolation the faint
+hope of seeing them again. We embarked at about five, P.M., and arrived
+at La Prairie de la Madeleine (on the opposite side of the St.
+Lawrence), toward eight o'clock.[C] We slept at this village, and the
+next morning, very early, having secured the canoe on a wagon, we got in
+motion again, and reached St. John's on the river Richelieu, a little
+before noon. Here we relaunched our canoe (after having well calked the
+seams), crossed or rather traversed the length of Lake Champlain, and
+arrived at Whitehall on the 30th. There we were overtaken by Mr. Ovid de
+Montigny, and a Mr. P.D. Jeremie, who were to be of the expedition.
+
+[Footnote C: This place is famous in the history of Canada, and more
+particularly in the thrilling story of the Indian missions.--ED.]
+
+Having again placed our canoe on a wagon, we pursued our journey, and
+arrived on the 1st of August at Lansingburg, a little village situated
+on the bank of the river Hudson. Here we got our canoe once more afloat,
+passed by Troy, and by Albany, everywhere hospitably received, our
+Canadian boatmen, having their hats decorated with parti-colored ribands
+and feathers, being taken by the Americans for so many wild Indians, and
+arrived at New York on the 3d, at eleven o'clock in the evening.
+
+We had landed at the north end of the city, and the next day, being
+Sunday, we re-embarked, and were obliged to make a course round the
+city, in order to arrive at our lodgings on Long Island. We sang as we
+rowed; which, joined to the unusual sight of a birch bark canoe impelled
+by nine stout Canadians, dark as Indians, and as gayly adorned,
+attracted a crowd upon the wharves to gaze at us as we glided along. We
+found on Long Island (in the village of Brooklyn) those young gentlemen
+engaged in the service of the new company, who had left Canada in
+advance of our party.
+
+The vessel in which we were to sail not being ready, I should have found
+myself quite isolated and a stranger in the great city of New York, but
+for a letter of introduction to Mr. G----, given me on my setting out,
+by Madame his sister. I had formed the acquaintance of this gentleman
+during a stay which he had made at Montreal in 1801; but as I was then
+very young, he would probably have had some difficulty in recognising me
+without his sister's letter. He introduced me to several of his friends,
+and I passed in an agreeable manner the five weeks which elapsed between
+my arrival in New York and the departure of the ship.
+
+I shall not undertake to describe New York; I will only say, that the
+elegance of the buildings, public and private, the cleanliness of the
+streets, the shade of the poplars which border them, the public walks,
+the markets always abundantly provided with all sorts of commodities,
+the activity of its commerce, then in a flourishing condition, the vast
+number of ships of all nations which crowded the quays; all, in a word,
+conspired to make me feel the difference between this great maritime
+city and my native town, of whose steeples I had never lost sight
+before, and which was by no means at that time what it is now.
+
+New York was not then, and indeed is not at this time a fortified town;
+still there were several batteries and military works, the most
+considerable of which were seen on the _Narrows_, or channel which forms
+the principal mouth of the Hudson. The isles called _Governor's Island_,
+and _Bedloe_ or _Gibbet Island_, were also well fortified. On the first,
+situated to the west of the city and about a mile from it, there were
+barracks sufficiently capacious for several thousand soldiers, and a
+Moro, or castle, with three tiers of guns, all bomb-proof. These works
+have been strengthened during the last war.
+
+The market-places are eight in number; the most considerable is called
+_Fly-Market_.
+
+The _Park_, the _Battery_, and _Vauxhall Garden_, are the principal
+promenades. There were, in 1810, thirty-two churches, two of which were
+devoted to the catholic worship; and the population was estimated at
+ninety thousand souls, of whom ten thousand were French. It is thought
+that this population has since been augmented (1819) by some thirty
+thousand souls.
+
+During my sojourn at New York, I lodged in Brooklyn, on Long Island.
+This island is separated from the city by a sound, or narrow arm of the
+sea. There is here a pretty village, not far from which is a basin,
+where some gun-boats were hauled up, and a few war vessels were on the
+stocks. Some barracks had been constructed here, and a guard was
+maintained.
+
+Before leaving New York, it is well to observe that during our stay in
+that city, Mr. M'Kay thought it the part of prudence to have an
+interview with the minister plenipotentiary of his Britannic majesty,
+Mr. Jackson,[D] to inform him of the object of our voyage, and get his
+views in regard to the line of conduct we ought to follow in case of war
+breaking out between the two powers; intimating to him that we were all
+British subjects, and were about to trade under the American flag. After
+some moments of reflection Mr. Jackson told him, "that we were going on
+a very hazardous enterprise; that he saw our object was purely
+commercial, and that all he could promise us, was, that in case of a war
+we should be respected as British subjects and traders."
+
+[Footnote D: This gentleman was really _chargé d'affaires_.]
+
+This reply appeared satisfactory, and Mr. M'Kay thought we had nothing
+to apprehend on that side.
+
+The vessel in which we were to sail was called the _Tonquin_, of about
+300 tons burden, commanded by Captain Thorn (a first-lieutenant of the
+American navy, on furlough for this purpose), with a crew of twenty-one
+men. The number of passengers was thirty-three. Here follow the names of
+both.
+
+
+PASSENGERS.
+
+               { Messrs. Alexander M'Kay   }
+               {   "     Duncan M'Dougall, }
+     PARTNERS  {   "     David Stuart,     }  all of Canada.
+               {   "     Robert Stuart,    }
+
+             { James Lewis of New York,
+             { Russel Farnham of Massachusetts,
+             { William W. Matthews of New York,
+             { Alexander Boss,    }
+             { Donald M'Gillis,   }
+     CLERKS  { Ovide de Montigny, }
+             { Francis B. Pillet, } all from Canada.
+             { Donald M'Lennan,   }
+             { William Wallace,   }
+             { Thomas McKay,      }
+             { Gabriel Franchere, }
+
+               { Oliver Roy Lapensée,    Joseph Lapierre,
+               { Ignace Lapensée,        Joseph Nadeau,
+     BOATMEN,  { Basile Lapensée,        J. B'te. Belleau,
+     ETC.      { Jacques Lafantaisie,    Antoine Belleau,
+               { Benjamin Roussel,       Louis Bruslé,
+               { Michel Laframboise,     P.D. Jeremie,
+               { Giles Leclerc,          all of Canada.
+
+     Johann Koaster, ship-carpenter, a Russian,
+     George Bell, cooper, New York,
+     Job Aitken, rigger and calker, from Scotland,
+     Augustus Roussil, blacksmith, Canada,
+     Guilleaume Perreault, a boy. These last were all
+         mechanics, &c., destined for the establishment.
+
+
+CREW.
+
+     Jonathan Thorn, captain, New York State.
+     Ebenezer D. Fox, 1st mate, of Boston.
+     John M. Mumford, 2d mate, of Massachusetts.
+     James Thorn, brother of the captain, New York.
+     John Anderson, boatswain, foreigner.
+     Egbert Vanderhuff, tailor, New York.
+     John Weeks, carpenter,         "
+     Stephen Weeks, armorer,        "
+     John Coles, New York,     }
+     John Martin, a Frenchman, }  sailmakers.
+
+               { John White, New York.
+               { Adam Fisher,   "
+               { Peter Verbel,  "
+     SAILORS.  { Edward Aymes,  "
+               { Robert Hill, Albany, New York.
+               { John Adams,    "
+               { Joseph Johnson, Englishman,
+               { Charles Roberts, New York,
+     A colored man as cook,
+     A mulatto steward,
+     And three or four others whose names I have forgotten.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     Departure from New York.--Reflections of the Author.--Navigation,
+     falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+     comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.
+
+
+All being ready for our departure, we went on board ship, and weighed
+anchor on the 6th of September, in the morning. The wind soon fell off,
+and the first day was spent in drifting down to Staten island, where we
+came to anchor for the night. The next day we weighed anchor again; but
+there came on another dead calm, and we were forced to cast anchor near
+the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. On the 8th we weighed anchor for the third
+time, and by the help of a fresh breeze from the southwest, we succeeded
+in passing the bar; the pilot quitted us at about eleven o'clock, and
+soon after we lost sight of the coast.
+
+One must have experienced it one's self, to be able to conceive the
+melancholy which takes possession of the soul of a man of sensibility,
+at the instant that he leaves his country and the civilized world, to go
+to inhabit with strangers in wild and unknown lands. I should in vain
+endeavor to give my readers an idea, even faintly correct, of the
+painful sinking of heart that I suddenly felt, and of the sad glance
+which I involuntarily cast toward a future so much the more frightful to
+me, as it offered nothing but what was perfectly confused and uncertain.
+A new scene of life was unfolded before me, but how monotonous, and ill
+suited to diminish the dejection with which my mind was overwhelmed! For
+the first time in my life, I found myself under way upon the main sea,
+with nothing to fix my regards and arrest my attention but the frail
+machine which bore me between the abyss of waters and the immensity of
+the skies. I remained for a long time with my eyes fixed in the
+direction of that land which I no longer saw, and almost despaired of
+ever seeing again; I made serious reflections on the nature and
+consequences of the enterprise in which I had so rashly embarked; and I
+confess that if at that moment the offer had been made to release me
+from my engagement, I should have accepted the proposal with all my
+heart. It is true that the hopeless confusion and incumberment of the
+vessel's deck, the great number of strangers among whom I found myself,
+the brutal style which the captain and his subalterns used toward our
+young Canadians; all, in a word, conspired to make me augur a vexatious
+and disagreeable voyage. The sequel will show that I did not deceive
+myself in that.
+
+We perceived very soon in the S.W., which was our weather-side, a vessel
+that bore directly toward us; she made a signal that was understood by
+our captain; we hove to, and stood on her bow. It turned out to be the
+American frigate _Constitution_. We sent our boat on board of her, and
+sailed in company till toward five o'clock, when, our papers having been
+sent back to us, we separated.
+
+The wind having increased, the motion of the vessel made us sea-sick,
+those of us, I mean, who were for the first time at sea. The weather was
+fine, however; the vessel, which at first sailing was lumbered in such a
+manner that we could hardly get in or out of our berths, and scarcely
+work ship, by little and little got into order, so that we soon found
+ourselves more at ease.
+
+On the 14th we commenced to take flying fish. The 24th, we saw a great
+quantity of dolphins. We prepared lines and took two of the latter,
+which we cooked. The flesh of this fish appeared to me excellent.
+
+After leaving New York, till the 4th of October, we headed southeast. On
+that day we struck the trade winds, and bore S.S.E.; being, according to
+our observations, in latitude 17° 43" and longitude 22° 39".
+
+On the 5th, in the morning, we came in sight of the Cape-Verd islands,
+bearing W.N.W., and distant about eight or nine miles, having the coast
+of Africa to the E.S.E. We should have been very glad to touch at these
+islands to take in water; but as our vessel was an American bottom, and
+had on board a number of British subjects, our captain did not think fit
+to expose himself to meet the English ships-of-war cruising on these
+coasts, who certainly would not have failed to make a strict search, and
+to take from us the best part of our crew; which would infallibly have
+proved disastrous to the object for which we had shipped them.
+
+Speaking of water, I may mention that the rule was to serve it out in
+rations of a quart a day; but that we were now reduced to a pint and a
+half. For the rest, our fare consisted of fourteen ounces of hard bread,
+a pound and a quarter of salt beef or one of pork, per day, and half a
+pint of souchong tea, with sugar, per man. The pork and beef were served
+alternately: rice and beans, each once a week; corn-meal pudding with
+molasses, ditto; on Sundays the steerage passengers were allowed a
+bottle of Teneriffe wine. All except the four partners, Mr. Lewis,
+acting as captain's clerk, and Mr. T. M'Kay, were in the steerage; the
+cabin containing but six berths, besides the captain's and first-mate's
+state-rooms.
+
+As long as we were near the coast of Africa, we had light and variable
+winds, and extremely hot weather; on the 8th, we had a dead calm, and
+saw several sharks round the vessel; we took one which we ate. I found
+the taste to resemble sturgeon. We experienced on that day an excessive
+heat, the mercury being at 94° of Fahrenheit. From the 8th to the 11th
+we had on board a canary bird, which we treated with the greatest care
+and kindness, but which nevertheless quitted us, probably for a certain
+death.
+
+The nearer we approached to the equator the more we perceived the heat
+to increase: on the 16th, in latitude 6°, longitude 22° west from
+Greenwich, the mercury stood at 108°. We discovered on that day a sail
+bearing down upon us. The next morning she reappeared, and approached
+within gun-shot. She was a large brig, carrying about twenty guns: we
+sailed in company all day by a good breeze, all sail spread; but toward
+evening she dropped astern and altered her course to the S.S.E.
+
+On the 18th, at daybreak, the watch alarmed us by announcing that the
+same brig which had followed us the day before, was under our lee, a
+cable's length off, and seemed desirous of knowing who we were, without
+showing her own colors. Our captain appeared to be in some alarm; and
+admitting that she was a better sailer than we, he called all the
+passengers and crew on deck, the drum beat to quarters, and we feigned
+to make preparations for combat.
+
+It is well to observe that our vessel mounted ten pieces of cannon, and
+was pierced for twenty; the forward port-holes were adorned with sham
+guns. Whether it was our formidable appearance or no, at about ten A.M.
+the stranger again changed her course, and we soon lost sight of her
+entirely.
+
+Nothing further remarkable occurred to us till the 22d, when we passed
+the line in longitude 25° 9". According to an ancient custom the crew
+baptized those of their number who had never before crossed the
+equator; it was a holyday for them on board. About two o'clock in the
+afternoon we perceived a sail in the S.S.W. We were not a little
+alarmed, believing that it was the same brig which we had seen some days
+before; for it was lying to, as if awaiting our approach. We soon drew
+near, and to our great joy discovered that she was a Portuguese; we
+hailed her, and learned that she came from some part of South America,
+and was bound to Pernambuco, on the coasts of Brazil. Very soon after we
+began to see what navigators call the _Clouds of Magellan_: they are
+three little white spots that one perceives in the sky almost as soon as
+one passes the equator: they were situated in the S.S.W.
+
+The 1st November, we began to see great numbers of aquatic birds. Toward
+three o'clock P.M., we discovered a sail on our larboard, but did not
+approach sufficiently near to speak her. The 3d, we saw two more sails,
+making to the S.E. We passed the tropic of Capricorn on the 4th, with a
+fine breeze, and in longitude 33° 27". We lost the trade-winds, and as
+we advanced south the weather became cold and rainy. The 11th, we had a
+calm, although the swell was heavy. We saw several turtles, and the
+captain having sent out the small boat, we captured two of them. During
+the night of the 11th and 12th, the wind changed to the N.E., and raised
+a terrible tempest, in which the gale, the rain, the lightning, and
+thunder, seemed to have sworn our destruction; the sea appeared all
+a-fire, while our little vessel was the sport of winds and waves. We
+kept the hatches closed, which did not prevent us from passing very
+uncomfortable nights while the storm lasted; for the great heats that we
+had experienced between the tropics, had so opened the seams of the deck
+that every time the waves passed over, the water rushed down in
+quantities upon our hammocks. The 14th, the wind shifted to the S.S.W.,
+which compelled us to beat to windward. During the night we were struck
+by a tremendous sea; the helm was seized beyond control, and the man at
+the wheel was thrown from one side of the ship to the other, breaking
+two of his ribs, which confined him to his berth for a week.
+
+In latitude 35° 19", longitude 40°, the sea appeared to be covered with
+marine plants, and the change that we observed in the color of the
+water, as well as the immense number of gulls and other aquatic birds
+that we saw, proved to us that we were not far from the mouth of the
+_Rio de la Plata_. The wind continued to blow furiously till the 21st,
+when it subsided a little, and the weather cleared up. On the 25th,
+being in the 46th degree, and 30 minutes of latitude, we saw a penguin.
+
+We began to feel sensibly the want of water: since passing the tropic of
+Capricorn the daily allowance had been always diminishing, till we were
+reduced to three gills a day, a slender modicum considering that we had
+only salt provisions. We had indeed a still, which we used to render the
+sea-water drinkable; but we distilled merely what sufficed for the daily
+use of the kitchen, as to do more would have required a great quantity
+of wood or coal. As we were not more than one hundred and fifty leagues
+from the Falkland isles, we determined to put in there and endeavor to
+replenish our casks, and the captain caused the anchors to be got ready.
+
+We had contrary winds from the 27th of November to the 3d December. On
+the evening of that day, we heard one of the officers, who was at the
+mast head, cry "Land! Land!" Nevertheless, the night coming on, and the
+barren rocks which we had before us being little elevated above the
+ocean, we hove to.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Arrival at the Falkland Isles.--Landing.--Perilous Situation of the
+     Author and some of his Companions.--Portrait of Captain
+     Thorn.--Cape Horn.--Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+On the 4th (Dec.) in the morning, I was not the last to mount on deck,
+to feast my eyes with the sight of land; for it is only those who have
+been three or four months at sea, who know how to appreciate the
+pleasure which one then feels even at sight of such barren and bristling
+rocks as form the Falkland Isles. We drew near these rocks very soon,
+and entered between two of the islands, where we anchored on a good
+ground. The first mate being sent ashore to look for water, several of
+our gentlemen accompanied him. They returned in the evening with the
+disappointing intelligence that they had not been able to find fresh
+water. They brought us, to compensate for this, a number of wild geese
+and two seals.
+
+The weather appearing to threaten, we weighed anchor and put out to sea.
+The night was tempestuous, and in the morning of the 5th we had lost
+sight of the first islands. The wind blowing off land, it was necessary
+to beat up all that day; in the evening we found ourselves sufficiently
+near the shore, and hove to for the night. The 6th brought us a clear
+sky, and with a fresh breeze we succeeded in gaining a good anchorage,
+which we took to be Port Egmont, and where we found good water.
+
+On the 7th, we sent ashore the water casks, as well as the cooper to
+superintend filling them, and the blacksmiths who were occupied in some
+repairs required by the ship. For our part, having erected a tent near
+the springs, we passed the time while they were taking in water, in
+coursing over the isles: we had a boat for our accommodation, and killed
+every day a great many wild geese and ducks. These birds differ in
+plumage from those which are seen in Canada. We also killed a great
+many seals. These animals ordinarily keep upon the rocks. We also saw
+several foxes of the species called _Virginia_ fox: they were shy and
+yet fierce, barking like dogs and then flying precipitately. Penguins
+are also numerous on the Falkland Isles. These birds have a fine
+plumage, and resemble the loon: but they do not fly, having only little
+stumps of wings which they use to help themselves in waddling along. The
+rocks were covered with them. It being their sitting season we found
+them on their nests, from which they would not stir. They are not wild
+or timid: far from flying at our approach, they attacked us with their
+bill, which is very sharp, and with their short wings. The flesh of the
+penguin is black and leathery, with a strong fishy taste, and one must
+be very hungry to make up one's mind to eat it. We got a great quantity
+of eggs by dislodging them from their nests.
+
+As the French and English had both attempted to form establishments on
+these rocks, we endeavored to find some vestige of them; the tracks
+which we met everywhere made us hope to find goats also: but all our
+researches were vain: all that we discovered was an old fishing cabin,
+constructed of whale bone, and some seal-skin moccasins; for these rocks
+offer not a single tree to the view, and are frequented solely by the
+vessels which pursue the whale fishery in the southern seas. We found,
+however, two head-boards with inscriptions in English, marking the spot
+where two men had been interred: as the letters were nearly obliterated,
+we carved new ones on fresh pieces of board procured from the ship. This
+pious attention to two dead men nearly proved fatal to a greater number
+of the living; for all the casks having been filled and sent on board,
+the captain gave orders to re-embark, and without troubling himself to
+inquire if this order had been executed or not, caused the anchor to be
+weighed on the morning of the 11th, while I and some of my companions
+were engaged in erecting the inscriptions of which I have spoken, others
+were cutting grass for the hogs, and Messrs M'Dougall and D. Stuart had
+gone to the south side of the isle to look for game. The roaring of the
+sea against the rock-bound shore prevented them from hearing the gun,
+and they did not rejoin us till the vessel was already at sea. We then
+lost no time, but pushed off, being eight in number, with our little
+boat, only twenty feet keel. We rowed with all our might, but gained
+nothing upon the vessel. We were losing sight of the islands at last,
+and our case seemed desperate. While we paused, and were debating what
+course to pursue, as we had no compass, we observed the ship tacking and
+standing toward us. In fine after rowing for three hours and a half, in
+an excited state of feeling not easily described, we succeeded in
+regaining the vessel, and were taken on board at about three o'clock
+P.M.
+
+Having related this trait of malice on the part of our captain, I shall
+be permitted to make some remarks on his character. Jonathan Thorn was
+brought up in the naval service of his country, and had distinguished
+himself in a battle fought between the Americans and the Turks at
+Tripoli, some years before: he held the rank of first lieutenant. He
+was a strict disciplinarian, of a quick and passionate temper,
+accustomed to exact obedience, considering nothing but duty, and giving
+himself no trouble about the murmurs of his crew, taking counsel of
+nobody, and following Mr. Astor's instructions to the letter. Such was
+the man who had been selected to command our ship. His haughty manners,
+his rough and overbearing disposition, had lost him the affection of
+most of the crew and of all the passengers: he knew it, and in
+consequence sought every opportunity to mortify us. It is true that the
+passengers had some reason to reproach themselves; they were not free
+from blame; but he had been the aggressor; and nothing could excuse the
+act of cruelty and barbarity of which he was guilty, in intending to
+leave us upon those barren rocks of the Falkland isles, where we must
+inevitably have perished. This lot was reserved for us, but for the bold
+interference of Mr. B. Stuart, whose uncle was of our party, and who,
+seeing that the captain, far from waiting for us, coolly continued his
+course, threatened to blow his brains out unless he hove to and took us
+on board.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
+_Boat and five passengers pulling after Ship Tonquin._]
+
+We pursued our course, bearing S.S.W., and on the 14th, in latitude 54°
+1', longitude 64° 18', we found bottom at sixty-five fathoms, and saw a
+sail to the south. On the 15th, in the morning, we discovered before us
+the high mountains of _Terra del fuego_, which we continued to see till
+evening: the weather then thickened, and we lost sight of them. We
+encountered a furious storm which drove us to the 56th degree and 18' of
+latitude. On the 18th, we were only fifteen leagues from Cape Horn. A
+dead calm followed, but the current carried us within sight of the cape,
+five or six leagues distant. This cape, which forms the southern
+extremity of the American continent, has always been an object of terror
+to the navigators who have to pass from one sea to the other; several of
+whom to avoid doubling it, have exposed themselves to the long and
+dangerous passage of the straits of Magellan, especially when about
+entering the Pacific ocean. When we saw ourselves under the stupendous
+rocks of the cape, we felt no other desire but to get away from them as
+soon as possible, so little agreeable were those rocks to the view, even
+in the case of people who had been some months at sea! And by the help
+of a land breeze we succeeded in gaining an offing. While becalmed here,
+we measured the velocity of the current setting east, which we found to
+be about three miles an hour.
+
+The wind soon changed again to the S.S.W., and blew a gale. We had to
+beat. We passed in sight of the islands of Diego Ramirez, and saw a
+large schooner under their lee. The distance that we had run from New
+York, was about 9,165 miles. We had frightful weather till the 24th,
+when we found ourselves in 58° 16' of south latitude. Although it was
+the height of summer in that hemisphere, and the days as long as they
+are at Quebec on the 21st of June (we could read on deck at midnight
+without artificial light), the cold was nevertheless very great and the
+air very humid: the mercury for several days was but fourteen degrees
+above freezing point, by Fahrenheit's thermometer. If such is the
+temperature in these latitudes at the end of December, corresponding to
+our June, what must it be in the shortest days of the year, and where
+can the Patagonians then take refuge, and the inhabitants of the islands
+so improperly named the Land of Fire!
+
+The wind, which till the 24th had been contrary, hauled round to the
+south, and we ran westward. The next day being Christmas, we had the
+satisfaction to learn by our noon-day observation that we had weathered
+the cape, and were, consequently, now in the Pacific ocean. Up to that
+date we had but one man attacked with scurvy, a malady to which those
+who make long voyages are subject, and which is occasioned by the
+constant use of salt provisions, by the humidity of the vessel, and the
+inaction.
+
+From the 25th of December till the 1st of January, we were favored with
+a fair wind and ran eighteen degrees to the north in that short space of
+time. Though cold yet, the weather was nevertheless very agreeable. On
+the 17th, in latitude 10° S., and longitude 110° 50' W., we took
+several _bonitas_, an excellent fish. We passed the equator on the 23d,
+in 128° 14' of west longitude. A great many porpoises came round the
+vessel. On the 25th arose a tempest which lasted till the 28th. The wind
+then shifted to the E.S.E. and carried us two hundred and twenty-four
+miles on our course in twenty-four hours. Then we had several days of
+contrary winds; on the 8th of February it hauled to the S.E., and on the
+11th we saw the peak of a mountain covered with snow, which the first
+mate, who was familiar with these seas, told me was the summit of
+_Mona-Roah_, a high mountain on the island of _Ohehy_, one of those
+which the circumnavigator Cook named the Sandwich Isles, and where he
+met his death in 1779. We headed to the land all day, and although we
+made eight or nine knots an hour, it was not till evening that we were
+near enough to distinguish the huts of the islanders: which is
+sufficient to prove the prodigious elevation of _Mona Roah_ above the
+level of the sea.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Accident.--View of the Coast.--Attempted Visit of the
+     Natives.--Their Industry.--Bay of Karaka-koua.--Landing on the
+     Island.--John Young, Governor of Owahee.
+
+
+We were ranging along the coast with the aid of a fine breeze, when the
+boy Perrault, who had mounted the fore-rigging to enjoy the scenery,
+lost his hold, and being to windward where the shrouds were taut,
+rebounded from them like a ball some twenty feet from the ship's side
+into the ocean. We perceived his fall and threw over to him chairs,
+barrels, benches, hen-coops, in a word everything we could lay hands on;
+then the captain gave the orders to heave to; in the twinkling of an eye
+the lashings of one of the quarter-boats were cut apart, the boat
+lowered and manned: by this time the boy was considerably a-stern. He
+would have been lost undoubtedly but for a wide pair of canvass
+overalls full of tar and grease, which operated like a life-preserver.
+His head, however, was under when he was picked up, and he was brought
+on board lifeless, about a quarter of an hour after he fell into the
+sea. We succeeded, notwithstanding, in a short time, in bringing him to,
+and in a few hours he was able to run upon the deck.
+
+The coast of the island, viewed from the sea, offers the most
+picturesque _coup d'oeil_ and the loveliest prospect; from the beach to
+the mountains the land rises amphitheatrically, all along which is a
+border of lower country covered with cocoa-trees and bananas, through
+the thick foliage whereof you perceive the huts of the islanders; the
+valleys which divide the hills that lie beyond appear well cultivated,
+and the mountains themselves, though extremely high, are covered with
+wood to their summits, except those few peaks which glitter with
+perpetual snow.
+
+As we ran along the coast, some canoes left the beach and came
+alongside, with vegetables and cocoa-nuts; but as we wished to profit
+by the breeze to gain the anchorage, we did not think fit to stop. We
+coasted along during a part of the night; but a calm came on which
+lasted till the morrow. As we were opposite the bay of Karaka-koua, the
+natives came out again, in greater numbers, bringing us cabbages, yams,
+_taro_, bananas, bread-fruit, water-melons, poultry, &c., for which we
+traded in the way of exchange. Toward evening, by the aid of a sea
+breeze that rose as day declined, we got inside the harbor where we
+anchored on a coral bottom in fourteen fathoms water.
+
+The next day the islanders visited the vessel in great numbers all day
+long, bringing, as on the day before, fruits, vegetables, and some pigs,
+in exchange for which we gave them glass beads, iron rings, needles,
+cotton cloth, &c.
+
+Some of our gentlemen went ashore and were astonished to find a native
+occupied in building a small sloop of about thirty tons: the tools of
+which he made use consisted of a half worn-out axe, an adze, about
+two-inch blade, made out of a paring chisel, a saw, and an iron rod
+which he heated red hot and made it serve the purpose of an auger. It
+required no little patience and dexterity to achieve anything with such
+instruments: he was apparently not deficient in these qualities, for his
+work was tolerably well advanced. Our people took him on board with
+them, and we supplied him with suitable tools, for which he appeared
+extremely grateful.
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, while the ship's carpenter was engaged in
+replacing one of the cat-heads, two composition sheaves fell into the
+sea; as we had no others on board, the captain proposed to the
+islanders, who are excellent swimmers, to dive for them, promising a
+reward; and immediately two offered themselves. They plunged several
+times, and each time brought up shells as a proof that they had been to
+the bottom. We had the curiosity to hold our watches while they dove,
+and were astonished to find that they remained four minutes under the
+water. That exertion appeared to me, however, to fatigue them a great
+deal, to such a degree that the blood streamed from their nostrils and
+ears. At last one of them brought up the sheaves and received the
+promised recompense, which consisted of four yards of cotton.
+
+Karaka-koua bay where we lay, may be three quarters of a mile deep, and
+a mile and a half wide at the entrance: the latter is formed by two low
+points of rock which appear to have run down from the mountains in the
+form of lava, after a volcanic eruption. On each point is situated a
+village of moderate size; that is to say, a small group of the low huts
+of the islanders. The bottom of the bay terminates in a bold
+_escarpment_ of rock, some four hundred feet high, on the top of which
+is seen a solitary cocoa-tree.
+
+On the evening of the 14th, I went ashore with some other passengers,
+and we landed at the group of cabins on the western point, of those
+which I have described. The inhabitants entertained us with a dance
+executed by nineteen young women and one man, all singing together, and
+in pretty good time. An old man showed us the spot where Captain Cook
+was killed, on the 14th of February, 1779, with the cocoa-nut trees
+pierced by the balls from the boats which the unfortunate navigator
+commanded. This old man, whether it were feigned or real sensibility,
+seemed extremely affected and even shed tears, in showing us these
+objects. As for me, I could not help finding it a little singular to be
+thus, by mere chance, upon this spot, on the 14th of February, 1811;
+that is to say, thirty-two years after, on the anniversary of the
+catastrophe which has rendered it for ever celebrated. I drew no
+sinister augury from the coincidence, however, and returned to the ship
+with my companions as gay as I left it. When I say with my companions, I
+ought to except the boatswain, John Anderson, who, having had several
+altercations with the captain on the passage, now deserted the ship,
+preferring to live with the natives rather than obey any longer so
+uncourteous a superior. A sailor also deserted; but the islanders
+brought him back, at the request of the captain. They offered to bring
+back Anderson, but the captain preferred leaving him behind.
+
+We found no good water near Karaka-koua bay: what the natives brought us
+in gourds was brackish. We were also in great want of fresh meat, but
+could not obtain it: the king of these islands having expressly
+forbidden his subjects to supply any to the vessels which touched there.
+One of the chiefs sent a canoe to Tohehigh bay, to get from the governor
+of the island, who resided there, permission to sell us some pigs. The
+messengers returned the next day, and brought us a letter, in which the
+governor ordered us to proceed without delay to the isle of Wahoo, where
+the king lives; assuring us that we should there find good water and
+everything else we needed.
+
+We got under way on the 16th and with a light wind coasted the island as
+far as Tohehigh bay. The wind then dropping away entirely, the captain,
+accompanied by Messrs. M'Kay and M'Dougall, went ashore, to pay a visit
+to the governor aforesaid. He was not a native, but a Scotchman named
+John Young, who came hither some years after the death of Captain Cook.
+This man had married a native woman, and had so gained the friendship
+and confidence of the king, as to be raised to the rank of chief and
+after the conquest of Wahoo by King Tamehameha, was made governor of
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) the most considerable of the Sandwich Islands, both by
+its extent and population. His excellency explained to our gentlemen the
+reason why the king had interdicted the trade in hogs to the inhabitants
+of all the islands: this reason being that his majesty wished to reserve
+to himself the monopoly of that branch of commerce, for the augmentation
+of his royal revenue by its exclusive profits. The governor also
+informed them that no rain had fallen on the south part of Hawaii for
+three years; which explained why we found so little fresh water: he
+added that the north part of the island was more fertile than the south,
+where we were: but that there was no good anchorage: that part of the
+coast being defended by sunken rocks which form heavy breakers. In fine,
+the governor dismissed our gentlemen with a present of four fine fat
+hogs; and we, in return, sent him some tea, coffee, and chocolate, and
+a keg of Madeira wine.
+
+The night was nearly a perfect calm, and on the 17th we found ourselves
+abreast of _Mona-Wororayea_ a snow-capped mountain, like _Mona-Roah_,
+but which appeared to me less lofty than the latter. A number of
+islanders came to visit us as before, with some objects of curiosity,
+and some small fresh fish. The wind rising on the 18th, we soon passed
+the western extremity of Hawaii, and sailed by Mowhee and Tahooraha, two
+more islands of this group, and said to be, like the rest, thickly
+inhabited. The first presents a highly picturesque aspect, being
+composed of hills rising in the shape of a sugar loaf and completely
+covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees.
+
+At last, on the 21st, we approached Wahoo, and came to anchor opposite
+the bay of _Ohetity_, outside the bar, at a distance of some two miles
+from the land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Bay of Ohetity.--Tamehameha, King of the Islands.--His Visit to the
+     Ship.--His Capital.--His Naval Force.--His Authority.--Productions
+     of the Country.--Manners and Customs.--Reflections.
+
+
+There is no good anchorage in the bay of Ohetity, inside the bar or
+coral reef: the holding-ground is bad: so that, in case of a storm, the
+safety of the ship would have been endangered. Moreover, with a contrary
+wind, it would have been difficult to get out of the inner harbor; for
+which reasons, our captain preferred to remain in the road. For the
+rest, the country surrounding the bay is even more lovely in aspect than
+that of Karaka-koua; the mountains rise to a less elevation in the
+back-ground, and the soil has an appearance of greater fertility.
+
+_Tamehameha_, whom all the Sandwich Isles obeyed when we were there in
+1811, was neither the son nor the relative of Tierroboo, who reigned in
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) in 1779, when Captain Cook and some of his people were
+massacred. He was, at that date, but a chief of moderate power; but,
+being skilful, intriguing, and full of ambition, he succeeded in gaining
+a numerous party, and finally possessed himself of the sovereignty. As
+soon as he saw himself master of Owhyhee, his native island, he
+meditated the conquest of the leeward islands, and in a few years he
+accomplished it. He even passed into _Atoudy_, the most remote of all,
+and vanquished the ruler of it, but contented himself with imposing on
+him an annual tribute. He had fixed his residence at Wahoo, because of
+all the Sandwich Isles it was the most fertile, the most picturesque--in
+a word, the most worthy of the residence of the sovereign.
+
+As soon as we arrived, we were visited by a canoe manned by three white
+men, Davis and Wadsworth, Americans, and Manini, a Spaniard. The last
+offered to be our interpreter during our stay; which was agreed to.
+Tamehameha presently sent to us his prime-minister, _Kraimoku_, to whom
+the Americans have given the name of _Pitt_, on account of his skill in
+the affairs of government. Our captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, went ashore immediately, to be presented to Tamehameha. About
+four o'clock, P.M., we saw them returning, accompanied by a double
+pirogue conveying the king and his suite. We ran up our colors, and
+received his majesty with a salute of four guns.
+
+Tamehameha was above the middle height, well made, robust and inclined
+to corpulency, and had a majestic carriage. He appeared to me from fifty
+to sixty years old. He was clothed in the European style, and wore a
+sword. He walked a long time on the deck, asking explanations in regard
+to those things which he had not seen on other vessels, and which were
+found on ours. A thing which appeared to surprise him, was to see that
+we could render the water of the sea fresh, by means of the still
+attached to our caboose; he could not imagine how that could be done.
+We invited him into the cabin, and, having regaled him with some glasses
+of wine, began to talk of business matters: we offered him merchandise
+in exchange for hogs, but were not able to conclude the bargain that
+day. His majesty re-embarked in his double pirogue, at about six o'clock
+in the evening. It was manned by twenty-four men. A great chest,
+containing firearms, was lashed over the centre of the two canoes
+forming the pirogue; and it was there that Tamehameha sat, with his
+prime-minister at his side.
+
+In the morning, on the 22d, we sent our water-casks ashore and filled
+them with excellent water. At about noon his sable majesty paid us
+another visit, accompanied by his three wives and his favorite minister.
+These females were of an extraordinary corpulence, and of unmeasured
+size. They were dressed in the fashion of the country, having nothing
+but a piece of _tapa_, or bark-cloth, about two yards long, passed round
+the hips and falling to the knees. We resumed the negotiations of the
+day before, and were more successful. I remarked that when the bargain
+was concluded, he insisted with great pertinacity that part of the
+payment should be in Spanish dollars. We asked the reason, and he made
+answer that he wished to buy a frigate of his brother, King George,
+meaning the king of England. The bargain concluded, we prayed his
+majesty and his suite to dine with us; they consented, and toward
+evening retired, apparently well satisfied with their visit and our
+reception of them.
+
+In the meantime, the natives surrounded the ship in great numbers, with
+hundreds of canoes, offering us their goods, in the shape of eatables
+and the rude manufactures of the island, in exchange for merchandise;
+but, as they had also brought intoxicating liquors in gourds, some of
+the crew got drunk; the captain was, consequently, obliged to suspend
+the trade, and forbade any one to traffic with the islanders, except
+through the first-mate, who was intrusted with that business.
+
+I landed on the 22d, with Messrs. Pillet and M'Gillis: we passed the
+night ashore, spending that day and the next morning in rambling over
+the environs of the bay, followed by a crowd of men, women, and
+children.
+
+Ohetity, where Tamehameha resides, and which, consequently, may be
+regarded as the capital of his kingdom, is--or at least was at that
+time--a moderate-sized city, or rather a large village. Besides the
+private houses, of which there were perhaps two hundred, constructed of
+poles planted in the ground and covered over with matting, there were
+the royal palace, which was not magnificent by any means: a public
+store, of two stories, one of stone and the other of wood; two _morais_,
+or idol temples, and a wharf. At the latter we found an old vessel, the
+_Lady Bird_, which some American navigators had given in exchange for a
+schooner; it was the only large vessel which King Tamehameha possessed;
+and, besides, was worth nothing. As for schooners he had forty of them,
+of from twenty to thirty tons burthen: these vessels served to transport
+the tributes in kind paid by his vassals in the other islands. Before
+the Europeans arrived among these savages, the latter had no means of
+communication between one isle and another, but their canoes, and as
+some of the islands are not in sight of each other, these voyages must
+have been dangerous. Near the palace I found an Indian from Bombay,
+occupied in making a twelve inch cable, for the use of the ship which I
+have described.
+
+Tamehameha kept constantly round his house a guard of twenty-four men.
+These soldiers wore, by way of uniform, a long blue coat with yellow;
+and each was armed with a musket. In front of the house, on an open
+square, were placed fourteen four-pounders, mounted on their carriages.
+
+The king was absolute, and judged in person the differences between his
+subjects. We had an opportunity of witnessing a proof of it, the day
+after our landing. A Portuguese having had a quarrel with a native, who
+was intoxicated, struck him: immediately the friends of the latter, who
+had been the aggressor after all, gathered in a crowd to beat down the
+poor foreigner with stones; he fled as fast as he could to the house of
+the king, followed by a mob of enraged natives, who nevertheless stopped
+at some distance from the guards, while the Portuguese, all breathless,
+crouched in a corner. We were on the esplanade in front of the palace
+royal, and curiosity to see the trial led us into the presence of his
+majesty, who having caused the quarrel to be explained to him, and heard
+the witnesses on both sides, condemned the native to work four days in
+the garden of the Portuguese and to give him a hog. A young Frenchman
+from Bordeaux, preceptor of the king's sons, whom he taught to read, and
+who understood the language, acted as interpreter to the Portuguese, and
+explained to us the sentence. I can not say whether our presence
+influenced the decision, or whether, under other circumstances, the
+Portuguese would have been less favorably treated. We were given to
+understand that Tamehameha was pleased to see whites establish
+themselves in his dominions, but that he esteemed only people with some
+useful trade, and despised idlers, and especially drunkards. We saw at
+Wahoo about thirty of these white inhabitants, for the most part, people
+of no character, and who had remained on the islands either from
+indolence, or from drunkenness and licentiousness. Some had taken wives
+in the country, in which case the king gave them a portion of land to
+cultivate for themselves. But two of the worst sort had found means to
+procure a small still, wherewith they manufactured rum and supplied it
+to the natives.
+
+The first navigators found only four sorts of quadrupeds on the Sandwich
+islands:--dogs, swine, lizards, and rats. Since then sheep have been
+carried there, goats, horned cattle, and even horses, and these animals
+have multiplied.
+
+The chief vegetable productions of these isles are the sugar cane, the
+bread-fruit tree, the banana, the water-melon, the musk-melon, the
+_taro_, the _ava_, the _pandanus_, the mulberry, &c. The bread-fruit
+tree is about the size of a large apple-tree; the fruit resembles an
+apple and is about twelve or fourteen inches in circumference; the rind
+is thick and rough like a melon: when cut transversely it is found to
+be full of sacs, like the inside of an orange; the pulp has the
+consistence of water-melon, and is cooked before it is eaten. We saw
+orchards of bread-fruit trees and bananas, and fields of sugar-cane,
+back of Ohetity.
+
+The _taro_ grows in low situations, and demands a great deal of care. It
+is not unlike a white turnip,[E] and as it constitutes the principal
+food of the natives, it is not to be wondered at that they bestow so
+much attention on its culture. Wherever a spring of pure water is found
+issuing out of the side of a hill, the gardener marks out on the
+declivity the size of the field he intends to plant. The ground is
+levelled and surrounded with a mud or stone wall, not exceeding eighteen
+inches in height, and having a flood gate above and below. Into this
+enclosure the water of the spring is conducted, or is suffered to escape
+from it, according to the dryness of the season. When the root has
+acquired a sufficient size it is pulled up for immediate use. This
+esculent is very bad to eat raw, but boiled it is better than the yam.
+Cut in slices, dried, pounded and reduced to a farina, it forms with
+bread fruit the principal food of the natives. Sometimes they boil it to
+the consistence of porridge, which they put into gourds and allow to
+ferment; it will then keep a long time. They also use to mix with it,
+fish, which they commonly eat raw with the addition of a little salt,
+obtained by evaporation.
+
+[Footnote E: Bougainville calls it "Calf-foot root."]
+
+The _ava_ is a plant more injurious than useful to the inhabitants of
+these isles; since they only make use of it to obtain a dangerous and
+intoxicating drink, which they also call _ava_. The mode of preparing
+this beverage is as follows: they chew the root, and spit out the result
+into a basin; the juice thus expressed is exposed to the sun to undergo
+fermentation; after which they decant it into a gourd; it is then fit
+for use, and they drink it on occasions to intoxication. The too
+frequent use of this disgusting liquor causes loss of sight, and a sort
+of leprosy, which can only be cured by abstaining from it, and by
+bathing frequently in the water of the sea. This leprosy turns their
+skin white: we saw several of the lepers, who were also blind, or nearly
+so. The natives are also fond of smoking: the tobacco grows in the
+islands, but I believe it has been introduced from abroad. The bark of
+the mulberry furnishes the cloth worn by both sexes; of the leaves of
+the _pandanus_ they make mats. They have also a kind of wax-nut, about
+the size of a dried plum of which they make candles by running a stick
+through several of them. Lighted at one end, they burn like a wax taper,
+and are the only light they use in their huts at night.
+
+The men are generally well made and tall: they wear for their entire
+clothing what they call a _maro_; it is a piece of figured or white
+tapa, two yards long and a foot wide, which they pass round the loins
+and between the legs, tying the ends in a knot over the left hip. At
+first sight I thought they were painted red, but soon perceived that it
+was the natural _color_ of their skin. The women wear a petticoat of the
+same stuff as the _maro_, but wider and longer, without, however,
+reaching below the knees. They have sufficiently regular features, and
+but for the color, may pass, generally speaking, for handsome women.
+Some to heighten their charms, dye their black hair (cut short for the
+purpose) with quick lime, forming round the head a strip of pure white,
+which disfigures them monstrously. Others among the young wear a more
+becoming garland of flowers. For other traits, they are very lascivious,
+and far from observing a modest reserve, especially toward strangers. In
+regard to articles of mere ornament, I was told that they were not the
+same in all the island. I did not see them, either, clothed in their war
+dresses, or habits of ceremony. But I had an opportunity to see them
+paint or print their _tapa_, or bark cloth, an occupation in which they
+employ a great deal of care and patience. The pigments they use are
+derived from vegetable juices, prepared with the oil of the cocoa-nut.
+Their pencils are little reeds or canes of bamboo, at the extremity of
+which they carve out divers sorts of flowers. First they tinge the cloth
+they mean to print, yellow, green, or some other color which forms the
+ground: then they draw upon it perfectly straight lines, without any
+other guide but the eye; lastly they dip the ends of the bamboo sticks
+in paint of a different tint from the ground, and apply them between the
+dark or bright bars thus formed. This cloth resembles a good deal our
+calicoes and printed cottons; the oils with which it is impregnated
+renders it impervious to water. It is said that the natives of _Atowy_
+excel all the other islanders in the art of painting the tapa.
+
+The Sandwich-islanders live in villages of one or two hundred houses
+arranged without symmetry, or rather grouped together in complete
+defiance of it. These houses are constructed (as I have before said) of
+posts driven in the ground, covered with long dry grass, and walled with
+matting; the thatched roof gives them a sort of resemblance to our
+Canadian barns or granges. The length of each house varies according to
+the number of the family which occupies it: they are not smoky like the
+wigwams of our Indians, the fireplace being always outside in the open
+air, where all the cooking is performed. Hence their dwellings are very
+clean and neat inside.
+
+Their pirogues or canoes are extremely light and neat: those which are
+single have an outrigger, consisting of two curved pieces of timber
+lashed across the bows, and touching the water at the distance of five
+or six feet from the side; another piece, turned up at each extremity,
+is tied to the end and drags in the water, on which it acts like a
+skating iron on the ice, and by its weight keeps the canoe in
+equilibrium: without that contrivance they would infallibly upset. Their
+paddles are long, with a very broad blade. All these canoes carry a
+lateen, or sprit-sail, which is made of a mat of grass or leaves,
+extremely well woven.
+
+I did not remain long enough with these people to acquire very extensive
+and exact notions of their religion: I know that they recognise a
+Supreme Being, whom they call _Etoway_, and a number of inferior
+divinities. Each village has one or more _morais_. These morais are
+enclosures which served for cemeteries; in the middle is a temple,
+where the priests alone have a right to enter: they contain several
+idols of wood, rudely sculptured. At the feet of these images are
+deposited, and left to putrify, the offerings of the people, consisting
+of dogs, pigs, fowls, vegetables, &c. The respect of these savages for
+their priests extends almost to adoration; they regard their persons as
+sacred, and feel the greatest scruple in touching the objects, or going
+near the places, which they have declared _taboo_ or forbidden. The
+_taboo_ has often been useful to European navigators, by freeing them
+from the importunities of the crowd.
+
+In our rambles we met groups playing at different games. That of
+draughts appeared the most common. The checker-board is very simple, the
+squares being marked on the ground with a sharp stick: the men are
+merely shells or pebbles. The game was different from that played in
+civilized countries, so that we could not understand it.
+
+Although nature has done almost everything for the inhabitants of the
+Sandwich islands--though they enjoy a perpetual spring, a clear sky, a
+salubrious climate, and scarcely any labor is required to produce the
+necessaries of life--they can not be regarded as generally happy: the
+artisans and producers, whom they call _Tootoos_, are nearly in the same
+situation as the Helots among the Lacedemonians, condemned to labor
+almost incessantly for their lord or _Eris_, without hope of bettering
+their condition, and even restricted in the choice of their daily
+food.[F] How has it happened that among a people yet barbarous, where
+knowledge is nearly equally distributed, the class which is beyond
+comparison the most numerous has voluntarily submitted to such a
+humiliating and oppressive yoke? The Tartars, though infinitely less
+numerous than the Chinese, have subjected them, because the former were
+warlike and the latter were not. The same thing has happened, no doubt,
+at remote periods, in Poland, and other regions of Europe and Asia. If
+moral causes are joined to physical ones, the superiority of one caste
+and the inferiority of the other will be still more marked; it is known
+that the natives of Hispaniola, when they saw the Spaniards arrive on
+their coast, in vessels of an astonishing size to their apprehensions,
+and heard them imitate the thunder with their cannon, took them for
+beings of a superior nature to their own. Supposing that this island had
+been extremely remote from every other country, and that the Spaniards,
+after conquering it, had held no further communication with any
+civilized land, at the end of a century or two the language and the
+manners would have assimilated, but there would have been two castes,
+one of lords, enjoying all the advantages, the other of serfs, charged
+with all the burdens. This theory seems to have been realized anciently
+in Hindostan; but if we must credit the tradition of the
+Sandwich-islanders, their country was originally peopled by a man and
+woman, who came to Owyhee in a canoe. Unless, then, they mean that this
+man and woman came with their slaves, and that the _Eris_ are descended
+from the first, and the _Tootoos_ from the last, they ought to attribute
+to each other the same origin, and consequently regard each other as
+equals, and even as brothers, according to the manner of thinking that
+prevails among savages. The cause of the slavery of women among most
+barbarous tribes is more easily explained: the men have subjected them
+by the right of the strongest, if ignorance and superstition have not
+caused them to be previously regarded as beings of an inferior nature,
+made to be servants and not companions.[G]
+
+[Footnote F: The _Tootoos_ and all the women, the wives of the king and
+principal chiefs excepted, are eternally condemned to the use of fruits
+and vegetables; dogs and pigs being exclusively reserved for the table
+of the _Eris_.]
+
+[Footnote G: Some Indian tribes think that women have no souls, but die
+altogether like the brutes; others assign them a different paradise from
+that of men, which indeed they might have reason to prefer for
+themselves, unless their relative condition were to be ameliorated in
+the next world.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     Departure from Wahoo.--Storm.--Arrival at the Mouth of the
+     Columbia.--Reckless Order of the Captain.--Difficulty of the
+     Entrance.--Perilous Situation of the Ship.--Unhappy Fate of a part
+     of the Crew and People of the Expedition.
+
+
+Having taken on board a hundred head of live hogs, some goats, two
+sheep, a quantity of poultry, two boat-loads of sugar-cane, to feed the
+hogs, as many more of yams, taro, and other vegetables, and all our
+water-casks being snugly stowed, we weighed anchor on the 28th of
+February, sixteen days after our arrival at Karaka-koua.
+
+We left another man (Edward Aymes) at Wahoo. He belonged to a boat's
+crew which was sent ashore for a load of sugar canes. By the time the
+boat was loaded by the natives the ebb of the tide had left her aground,
+and Aymes asked leave of the coxswain to take a stroll, engaging to be
+back for the flood. Leave was granted him, but during his absence, the
+tide haying come in sufficiently to float the boat, James Thorn, the
+coxswain, did not wait for the young sailor, who was thus left behind.
+The captain immediately missed the man, and, on being informed that he
+had strolled away from the boat on leave, flew into a violent passion.
+Aymes soon made his appearance alongside, having hired some natives to
+take him on board; on perceiving him, the captain ordered him to stay in
+the long-boat, then lashed to the side with its load of sugar-cane. The
+captain then himself got into the boat, and, taking one of the canes,
+beat the poor fellow most unmercifully with it; after which, not
+satisfied with this act of brutality, he seized his victim and threw him
+overboard! Aymes, however, being an excellent swimmer, made for the
+nearest native canoe, of which there were, as usual, a great number
+around the ship. The islanders, more humane than our captain, took in
+the poor fellow, who, in spite of his entreaties to be received on
+board, could only succeed in getting his clothes, which were thrown into
+the canoe. At parting, he told Captain Thorn that he knew enough of the
+laws of his country, to obtain redress, should they ever meet in the
+territory of the American Union.
+
+While we were getting under sail, Mr. M'Kay pointed out to the captain
+that there was one water-cask empty, and proposed sending it ashore to
+be filled, as the great number of live animals we had on board required
+a large quantity of fresh water. The captain, who feared that some of
+the men would desert if he sent them ashore, made an observation to that
+effect in answer to Mr. M'Kay, who then proposed sending me on a canoe
+which lay alongside, to fill the cask in question: this was agreed to by
+the captain, and I took the cask accordingly to the nearest spring.
+Having filled it, not without some difficulty, the islanders seeking to
+detain me, and I perceiving that they had given me some gourds full of
+salt water, I was forced also to demand a double pirogue (for the canoe
+which had brought the empty cask, was found inadequate to carry a full
+one), the ship being already under full sail and gaining an offing. As
+the natives would not lend a hand to procure what I wanted, I thought it
+necessary to have recourse to the king, and in fact did so. For seeing
+the vessel so far at sea, with what I knew of the captain's disposition,
+I began to fear that he had formed the plan of leaving me on the island.
+My fears, nevertheless were ill-founded; the vessel made a tack toward
+the shore, to my great joy; and a double pirogue was furnished me,
+through the good offices of our young friend the French schoolmaster, to
+return on board with my cask.
+
+Our deck was now as much encumbered as when left New York; for we had
+been obliged to place our live animals at the gangways, and to board
+over their pens, on which it was necessary to pass, to work ship. Our
+own numbers were also augmented; for we had taken a dozen islanders for
+the service of our intended commercial establishment. Their term of
+engagement was three years, during which we were to feed and clothe
+them, and at its expiration they were to receive a hundred dollars in
+merchandise. The captain had shipped another dozen as hands on the
+coasting voyage. These people, who make very good sailors, were eager to
+be taken into employment, and we might easily have carried off a much
+greater number.
+
+We had contrary winds till the 2d of March, when, having doubled the
+western extremity of the island, we made northing, and lost sight of
+these smiling and temperate countries, to enter very soon a colder
+region and less worthy of being inhabited. The winds were variable, and
+nothing extraordinary happened to us till the 16th, when, being arrived
+at the latitude of 35° 11' north, and in 138° 16' of west longitude, the
+wind shifted all of a sudden to the S.S.W., and blew with such violence,
+that we were forced to strike top-gallant masts and top-sails, and run
+before the gale with a double reef in our foresail. The rolling of the
+vessel was greater than in all the gales we had experienced previously.
+Nevertheless, as we made great headway, and were approaching the
+continent, the captain by way of precaution, lay to for two nights
+successively. At last, on the 22d, in the morning, we saw the land.
+Although we had not been able to take any observations for several days,
+nevertheless, by the appearance of the coast, we perceived that we were
+near the mouth of the river Columbia, and were not more than three miles
+from land. The breakers formed by the bar at the entrance of that river,
+and which we could distinguish from the ship, left us no room to doubt
+that we had arrived at last at the end of our voyage.
+
+The wind was blowing in heavy squalls, and the sea ran very high: in
+spite of that, the captain caused a boat to be lowered, and Mr. Fox
+(first mate), Basile Lapensee, Ignace Lapensee, Jos. Nadeau, and John
+Martin, got into her, taking some provisions and firearms, with orders
+to sound the channel and report themselves on board as soon as possible.
+The boat was not even supplied with a good sail, or a mast, but one of
+the partners gave Mr. Fox a pair of bed sheets to serve for the former.
+Messrs M'Kay and M'Dougall could not help remonstrating with the
+captain on the imprudence of sending the boat ashore in such weather;
+but they could not move his obstinacy. The boat's crew pulled away from
+the ship; alas! we were never to see her again; and we already had a
+foreboding of her fate. The next day the wind seemed to moderate, and we
+approached very near the coast. The entrance of the river, which we
+plainly distinguished with the naked eye, appeared but a confused and
+agitated sea: the waves, impelled by a wind from the offing, broke upon
+the bar, and left no perceptible passage. We got no sign of the boat;
+and toward evening, for our own safety, we hauled off to sea, with all
+countenances extremely sad, not excepting the captain's, who appeared to
+me as much afflicted as the rest, and who had reason to be so. During
+the night, the wind fell, the clouds dispersed, and the sky became
+serene. On the morning of the 24th, we found that the current had
+carried us near the coast again, and we dropped anchor in fourteen
+fathoms water, north of Cape Disappointment. The _coup d'oeil_ is not
+so smiling by a great deal at this anchorage, as at the Sandwich
+islands, the coast offering little to the eye but a continuous range of
+high mountains covered with snow.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
+_Ship Tonquin, crossing the bar, 25th March 1811._]
+
+Although it was calm, the sea continued to break over the reef with
+violence, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams. We sent Mr.
+Mumford (the second mate) to sound a passage; but having found the
+breakers too heavy, he returned on board about mid-day. Messrs. M'Kay
+and D. Stuart offered their services to go ashore, to search for the
+boat's crew who left on the 22d; but they could not find a place to
+land. They saw Indians, who made signs to them to pull round the cape,
+but they deemed it more prudent to return to the vessel. Soon after
+their return, a gentle breeze sprang up from the westward, we raised
+anchor, and approached the entrance of the river. Mr. Aikin was then
+despatched in the pinnace, accompanied by John Coles (sail-maker),
+Stephen Weeks (armorer), and two Sandwich-islanders; and we followed
+under easy sail. Another boat had been sent out before this one, but
+the captain judging that she bore too far south, made her a signal to
+return. Mr. Aikin not finding less than four fathoms, we followed him
+and advanced between the breakers, with a favorable wind, so that we
+passed the boat on our starboard, within pistol-shot. We made signs to
+her to return on board, but she could not accomplish it; the ebb tide
+carried her with such rapidity that in a few minutes we had lost sight
+of her amidst the tremendous breakers that surrounded us. It was near
+nightfall, the wind began to give way, and the water was so low with the
+ebb, that we struck six or seven times with violence: the breakers broke
+over the ship and threatened to submerge her. At last we passed from two
+and three quarters fathoms of water to seven, where we were obliged to
+drop anchor, the wind having entirely failed us. We were far, however,
+from being out of danger, and the darkness came to add to the horror of
+our situation: our vessel, though at anchor, threatened to be carried
+away every moment by the tide; the best bower was let go, and it kept
+two men at the wheel to hold her head in the right direction. However,
+Providence came to our succor: the flood succeeded to the ebb, and the
+wind rising out of the offing, we weighed both anchors, in spite of the
+obscurity of the night, and succeeded in gaining a little bay or cove,
+formed at the entrance of the river by Cape Disappointment, and called
+_Baker's Bay_, where we found a good anchorage. It was about midnight,
+and all retired to take a little rest: the crew, above all, had great
+need of it. We were fortunate to be in a place of safety, for the wind
+rose higher and higher during the rest of the night, and on the morning
+of the 25th allowed us to see that this ocean is not always pacific.
+
+Some natives visited us this day, bringing with them beaver-skins; but
+the inquietude caused in our minds by the loss of two boats' crews, for
+whom we wished to make search, did not permit us to think of traffic. We
+tried to make the savages comprehend, by signs, that we had sent a boat
+ashore three days previous, and that we had no news of her; but they
+seemed not to understand us. The captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, landed, and they set themselves to search for our missing
+people, in the woods, and along the shore N.W. of the cape. After a few
+hours we saw the captain return with Weeks, one of the crew of the last
+boat sent out. He was stark naked, and after being clothed, and
+receiving some nourishment, gave us an account of his almost miraculous
+escape from the waves on the preceding night, in nearly the following
+terms:--
+
+"After you had passed our boat;" said he, "the breakers caused by the
+meeting of the wind roll and ebb-tide, became a great deal heavier than
+when we entered the river with the flood. The boat, for want of a
+rudder, became very hard to manage, and we let her drift at the mercy of
+the tide, till, after having escaped several surges, one struck us
+midship and capsized us. I lost sight of Mr. Aiken and John Coles: but
+the two islanders were close by me; I saw them stripping off their
+clothes, and I followed their example; and seeing the pinnace within my
+reach, keel upward, I seized it; the two natives came to my assistance;
+we righted her, and by sudden jerks threw out so much of the water that
+she would hold a man: one of the natives jumped in, and, bailing with
+his two hands, succeeded in a short time in emptying her. The other
+native found the oars, and about dark we were all three embarked. The
+tide having now carried us outside the breakers, I endeavored to
+persuade my companions in misfortune to row, but they were so benumbed
+with cold that they absolutely refused. I well knew that without
+clothing, and exposed to the rigor of the air, I must keep in constant
+exercise. Seeing besides that the night was advancing, and having no
+resource but the little strength left me, I set to work sculling, and
+pushed off the bar, but so as not to be carried out too far to sea.
+About midnight, one of my companions died: the other threw himself upon
+the body of his comrade, and I could not persuade him to abandon it.
+Daylight appeared at last; and, being near the shore, I headed in for
+it, and arrived, thank God, safe and sound, through the breakers, on a
+sandy beach. I helped the islander, who yet gave some signs of life, to
+get out of the boat, and we both took to the woods; but, seeing that he
+was not able to follow me, I left him to his bad fortune, and, pursuing
+a beaten path that I perceived, I found myself, to my great
+astonishment, in the course of a few hours, near the vessel."
+
+The gentlemen who went ashore with the captain divided themselves into
+three parties, to search for the native whom Weeks had left at the
+entrance of the forest; but, after scouring the woods and the point of
+the cape all day, they came on board in the evening without having found
+him.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.--Obsequies of
+     a Sandwich Islander.--First steps in the Formation of the intended
+     Establishment.--New Alarm.--Encampment.
+
+
+The narrative of Weeks informed us of the death of three of our
+companions, and we could not doubt that the five others had met a
+similar fate. This loss of eight of our number, in two days, before we
+had set foot on shore, was a bad augury, and was sensibly felt by all of
+us. In the course of so long a passage, the habit of seeing each other
+every day, the participation of the same cares and dangers, and
+confinement to the same narrow limits, had formed between all the
+passengers a connection that could not be broken, above all in a manner
+so sad and so unlooked for, without making us feel a void like that
+which is experienced in a well-regulated and loving family, when it is
+suddenly deprived by death, of the presence of one of its cherished
+members. We had left New York, for the most part strangers to one
+another; but arrived at the river Columbia we were all friends, and
+regarded each other almost as brothers. We regretted especially the two
+brothers Lapensée and Joseph Nadeau: these young men had been in an
+especial manner recommended by their respectable parents in Canada to
+the care of Mr. M'Kay; and had acquired by their good conduct the esteem
+of the captain, of the crew, and of all the passengers. The brothers
+Lapensée were courageous and willing, never flinching in the hour of
+danger, and had become as good seamen as any on board. Messrs Fox and
+Aikin were both highly regarded by all; the loss of Mr. Fox, above all,
+who was endeared to every one by his gentlemanly behavior and
+affability, would have been severely regretted at any time, but it was
+doubly so in the present conjuncture: this gentleman, who had already
+made a voyage to the Northwest, could have rendered important services
+to the captain and to the company. The preceding days had been days of
+apprehension and of uneasiness; this was one of sorrow and mourning.
+
+The following day, the same gentlemen who had volunteered their services
+to seek for the missing islander, resumed their labors, and very soon
+after they left us, we perceived a great fire kindled at the verge of
+the woods, over against the ship. I was sent in a boat and arrived at
+the fire. It was our gentlemen who had kindled it, to restore animation
+to the poor islander, whom they had at last found under the rocks, half
+dead with cold and fatigue, his legs swollen and his feet bleeding. We
+clothed him, and brought him on board, where, by our care, we succeeded
+in restoring him to life.
+
+Toward evening, a number of the Sandwich-islanders, provided with the
+necessary utensils, and offerings consisting of biscuit, lard, and
+tobacco, went ashore, to pay the last duties to their compatriot, who
+died in Mr. Aikin's boat, on the night of the 24th. Mr. Pillet and I
+went with them, and witnessed the obsequies, which took place in the
+manner following. Arrived at the spot where the body had been hung upon
+a tree to preserve it from the wolves, the natives dug a grave in the
+sand; then taking down the body, and stretching it alongside the pit,
+they placed the biscuit under one of the arms, a piece of pork beneath
+the other, and the tobacco beneath the chin and the genital parts. Thus
+provided for the journey to the other world, the body was deposited in
+the grave and covered with sand and stones. All the countrymen of the
+dead man then knelt on either side of the grave, in a double row, with
+their faces to the east, except one of them who officiated as priest;
+the latter went to the margin of the sea, and having filled his hat with
+water, sprinkled the two rows of islanders, and recited a sort of
+prayer, to which the others responded, nearly as we do in the litanies.
+That prayer ended, they rose and returned to the vessel, looking neither
+to the right hand nor to the left. As every one of them appeared to me
+familiar with the part he performed, it is more than probable that they
+observed, as far as circumstances permitted, the ceremonies practised in
+their country on like occasions. We all returned on board about sundown.
+
+The next day, the 27th, desirous of clearing the gangways of the live
+stock; we sent some men on shore to construct a pen, and soon after
+landed about fifty hogs, committing them to the care of one of the
+hands. On the 30th, the long boat was manned, armed and provisioned, and
+the captain, with Messrs. M'Kay and D. Stuart, and some of the clerks,
+embarked on it, to ascend the river and choose an eligible spot for our
+trading establishment. Messrs. Boss and Pillet left at the same time, to
+run down south, and try to obtain intelligence of Mr. Fox and his crew.
+In the meantime, having reached some of the goods most at hand, we
+commenced, with the natives who came every day to the vessel, a trade
+for beaver-skins, and sea-otter stones.
+
+Messrs. Ross and Pillet returned on board on the 1st of April, without
+having learned anything respecting Mr. Fox and his party. They did not
+even perceive along the beach any vestiges of the boat. The natives who
+occupy Point _Adams_, and who are called _Clatsops_, received our young
+gentlemen very amicably and hospitably. The captain and his companions
+also returned on the 4th, without having decided on a position for the
+establishment, finding none which appeared to them eligible. It was
+consequently resolved to explore the south bank, and Messrs. M'Dougal
+and D. Stuart departed on that expedition the next day, promising to
+return by the 7th.
+
+The 7th came, and these gentlemen did not return. It rained almost all
+day. The day after, some natives came on board, and reported that
+Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart had capsized the evening before in crossing
+the bay. This news at first alarmed us; and, if it had been verified,
+would have given the finishing blow to our discouragement. Still, as the
+weather was excessively bad, and we did not repose entire faith in the
+story of the natives--whom, moreover, we might not have perfectly
+understood--we remained in suspense till the 10th. On the morning of
+that day, we were preparing to send some of the people in search of our
+two gentlemen, when we perceived two large canoes, full of Indians,
+coming toward the vessel: they were of the _Chinook_ village, which was
+situated at the foot of a bluff on the north side of the river, and were
+bringing back Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart. We made known to these
+gentlemen the report we had heard on the 8th from the natives, and they
+informed us that it had been in fact well founded; that on the 7th,
+desirous of reaching the ship agreeably to their promise, they had
+quitted _Chinook_ point, in spite of the remonstrances of the chief,
+_Comcomly_, who sought to detain them by pointing out the danger to
+which they would expose themselves in crossing the bay in such a heavy
+sea as it was; that they had scarcely made more than a mile and a half
+before a huge wave broke over their boat and capsized it; that the
+Indians, aware of the danger to which they were exposed, had followed
+them, and that, but for their assistance, Mr. M'Dougal, who could not
+swim, would inevitably have been drowned; that, after the Chinooks had
+kindled a large fire and dried their clothes, they had been conducted by
+them back to their village, where the principal chief had received them
+with all imaginable hospitality, regaling them with every delicacy his
+wigwam afforded; that, in fine, if they had got back safe and sound to
+the vessel, it was to the timely succor and humane cares of the Indians
+whom we saw before us that they owed it. We liberally rewarded these
+generous children of the forest, and they returned home well satisfied.
+
+This last survey was also fruitless, as Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart did
+not find an advantageous site to build upon. But, as the captain wished
+to take advantage of the fine season to pursue his traffic with the
+natives along the N.W. coast, it was resolved to establish ourselves on
+Point _George_, situated on the south bank, about fourteen or fifteen
+miles from our present anchorage. Accordingly, we embarked on the 12th,
+in the long-boat, to the number of twelve, furnished with tools, and
+with provisions for a week. We landed at the bottom of a small bay,
+where we formed a sort of encampment. The spring, usually so tardy in
+this latitude, was already far advanced; the foliage was budding, and
+the earth was clothing itself with verdure; the weather was superb, and
+all nature smiled. We imagined ourselves in the garden of Eden; the wild
+forests seemed to us delightful groves, and the leaves transformed to
+brilliant flowers. No doubt, the pleasure of finding ourselves at the
+end of our voyage, and liberated from the ship, made things appear to us
+a great deal more beautiful than they really were. Be that as it may, we
+set ourselves to work with enthusiasm, and cleared, in a few days, a
+point of land of its under-brush, and of the huge trunks of pine-trees
+that covered it, which we rolled, half-burnt, down the bank. The vessel
+came to moor near our encampment, and the trade went on. The natives
+visited us constantly and in great numbers; some to trade, others to
+gratify their curiosity, or to purloin some little articles if they
+found an opportunity. We landed the frame timbers which we had brought,
+ready cut for the purpose, in the vessel; and by the end of April, with
+the aid of the ship-carpenters, John Weeks and Johann Koaster, we had
+laid the keel of a coasting-schooner of about thirty tons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Voyage up the River.--Description of the Country.--Meeting with
+     strange Indians.
+
+
+The Indians having informed us that above certain rapids, there was an
+establishment of white men, we doubted not that it was a trading post of
+the Northwest Company; and to make sure of it, we procured a large canoe
+and a guide, and set out, on the 2d of May, Messrs M'Kay, R. Stuart,
+Montigny, and I, with a sufficient number of hands. We first passed a
+lofty head-land, that seemed at a distance to be detached from the main,
+and to which we gave the name of _Tongue Point_. Here the river gains a
+width of some nine or ten miles, and keeps it for about twelve miles up.
+The left bank, which we were coasting, being concealed by little low
+islands, we encamped for the night on one of them, at the village of
+_Wahkaykum_, to which our guide belonged.
+
+We continued our journey on the 3d: the river narrows considerably, at
+about thirty miles from its mouth, and is obstructed with islands, which
+are thickly covered with the willow, poplar, alder, and ash. These
+islands are, without exception, uninhabited and uninhabitable, being
+nothing but swamps, and entirely overflowed in the months of June and
+July; as we understood from _Coalpo_, our guide, who appeared to be an
+intelligent man. In proportion as we advanced, we saw the high mountains
+capped with snow, which form the chief and majestic feature, though a
+stern one, of the banks of the Columbia for some distance from its
+mouth, recede, and give place to a country of moderate elevation, and
+rising amphitheatrically from the margin of the stream. The river
+narrows to a mile or thereabouts; the forest is less dense, and patches
+of green prairie are seen. We passed a large village on the south bank,
+called _Kreluit_, above which is a fine forest of oaks; and encamped
+for the night, on a low point, at the foot of an isolated rock, about
+one hundred and fifty feet high. This rock appeared to me remarkable on
+account of its situation, reposing in the midst of a low and swampy
+ground, as if it had been dropped from the clouds, and seeming to have
+no connection with the neighboring mountains. On a cornice or shelving
+projection about thirty feet from its base, the natives of the adjacent
+villages deposite their dead, in canoes; and it is the same rock to
+which, for this reason, Lieutenant Broughton gave the name of _Mount
+Coffin_.
+
+On the 4th, in the morning, we arrived at a large village of the same
+name as that which we had passed the evening before, _Kreluit_, and we
+landed to obtain information respecting a considerable stream, which
+here discharges into the Columbia, and respecting its resources for the
+hunter and trader in furs. It comes from the north, and is called
+_Cowlitzk_ by the natives. Mr. M'Kay embarked with Mr. de Montigny and
+two Indians, in a small canoe, to examine the course of this river, a
+certain distance up. On entering the stream, they saw a great number of
+birds, which they took at first for turkeys, so much they resembled
+them, but which were only a kind of carrion eagles, vulgarly called
+_turkey-buzzards_. We were not a little astonished to see Mr. de
+Montigny return on foot and alone; he soon informed us of the reason:
+having ascended the _Kowlitzk_ about a mile and a half, on rounding a
+bend of the stream, they suddenly came in view of about twenty canoes,
+full of Indians, who had made a rush upon them with the most frightful
+yells; the two natives and the guide who conducted their little canoe,
+retreated with the utmost precipitancy, but seeing that they would be
+overtaken, they stopped short, and begged Mr. M'Kay to fire upon the
+approaching savages, which he, being well acquainted with the Indian
+character from the time he accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, and
+having met with similar occurrences before, would by no means do; but
+displayed a friendly sign to the astonished natives, and invited them to
+land for an amicable talk; to which they immediately assented. Mr.
+M'Kay had sent Mr. de Montigny to procure some tobacco and a pipe, in
+order to strike a peace with these barbarians. The latter then returned
+to Mr. M'Kay, with the necessary articles, and in the evening the party
+came back to our camp, which we had fixed between the villages. We were
+then informed that the Indians whom Mr. M'Kay had met, were at war with
+the _Kreluits_. It was impossible, consequently, to close our eyes all
+night; the natives passing and repassing continually from one village to
+the other, making fearful cries, and coming every minute to solicit us
+to discharge our firearms; all to frighten their enemies, and let them
+see that they were on their guard.
+
+On the 5th, in the morning, we paid a visit to the hostile camp; and
+those savages, who had never seen white men, regarded us with curiosity
+and astonishment, lifting the legs of our trowsers and opening our
+shirts, to see if the skin of our bodies resembled that of our faces and
+hands. We remained some time with them, to make proposals of peace; and
+having ascertained that this warlike demonstration originated in a
+trifling offence on the part of the _Kreluits_, we found them well
+disposed to arrange matters in an amicable fashion. After having given
+them, therefore, some looking-glasses, beads, knives, tobacco, and other
+trifles, we quitted them and pursued our way.
+
+Having passed a deserted village, and then several islands, we came in
+sight of a noble mountain on the north, about twenty miles distant, all
+covered with snow, contrasting remarkably with the dark foliage of the
+forests at its base, and probably the same which was seen by Broughton,
+and named by him _Mount St. Helen's_. We pulled against a strong current
+all this day, and at evening our guide made us enter a little river, on
+the bank of which we found a good camping place, under a grove of oaks,
+and in the midst of odoriferous wild flowers, where we passed a night
+more tranquil than that which had preceded it.
+
+On the morning of the 6th we ascended this small stream, and soon
+arrived at a large village called _Thlakalamah_, the chief whereof, who
+was a young and handsome man, was called _Keasseno_, and was a relative
+of our guide. The situation of this village is the most charming that
+can be, being built on the little river that we had ascended, and indeed
+at its navigable head, being here, but a torrent with numerous cascades
+leaping from rock to rock in their descent to the deep, limpid water,
+which then flows through a beautiful prairie, enamelled with odorous
+flowers of all colors, and studded with superb groves of oak. The
+freshness and beauty of this spot, which Nature seemed to have taken
+pleasure in adorning and enriching with her most precious gifts,
+contrasted, in a striking manner, with the indigence and uncleanliness
+of its inhabitants; and I regretted that it had not fallen to the lot of
+civilized men. I was wrong no doubt: it is just that those should be
+most favored by their common mother, who are least disposed to pervert
+her gifts, or to give the preference to advantages which are factitious,
+and often very frivolous. We quitted with regret this charming spot,
+and soon came to another large village, which our guide informed us was
+called _Kathlapootle_, and was situated at the confluence of a small
+stream, that seemed to flow down from the mountain covered with snow,
+which we had seen the day before: this river is called _Cowilkt_. We
+coasted a pretty island, well timbered, and high enough above the level
+of the Columbia to escape inundation in the freshets, and arrived at two
+villages called _Maltnabah_. We then passed the confluence of the river
+_Wallamat_, or _Willamet_, above which the tide ceases to be felt in the
+Columbia. Our guide informed us that ascending this river about a day's
+journey, there was a considerable fall, beyond which the country
+abounded in deer, elk, bear, beaver, and otter. But here, at the spot
+where we were, the oaks and poplar which line both banks of the river,
+the green and flowery prairies discerned through the trees, and the
+mountains discovered in the distance, offer to the eye of the observer
+who loves the beauties of simple nature, a prospect the most lovely and
+enchanting. We encamped for the night on the edge of one of these fine
+prairies.
+
+On the 7th we passed several low islands, and soon discovered _Mount
+Hood_, a high mountain, capped with snow, so named by Lieutenant
+Broughton; and _Mount Washington_, another snowy summit, so called by
+Lewis and Clarke. The prospect which the former had before his eyes at
+this place, appeared to him so charming, that landing upon a point, to
+take possession of the country in the name of King George, he named it
+_Pointe Belle Vue_. At two o'clock we passed _Point Vancouver_, the
+highest reached by Broughton. The width of the river diminishes
+considerably above this point, and we began very soon to encounter
+shoals of sand and gravel; a sure indication that we were nearing the
+rapids. We encamped that evening under a ledge of rocks, descending
+almost to the water's edge.
+
+The next day, the 8th, we did not proceed far before we encountered a
+very rapid current. Soon after, we saw a hut of Indians engaged in
+fishing, where we stopped to breakfast. We found here an old blind man,
+who gave us a cordial reception. Our guide said that he was a white man,
+and that his name was _Soto_. We learned from the mouth of the old man
+himself, that he was the son of a Spaniard who had been wrecked at the
+mouth of the river; that a part of the crew on this occasion got safe
+ashore, but were all massacred by the Clatsops, with the exception of
+four, who were spared and who married native women; that these four
+Spaniards, of whom his father was one, disgusted with the savage life,
+attempted to reach a settlement of their own nation toward the south,
+but had never been heard of since; and that when his father, with his
+companions, left the country, he himself was yet quite young.[H] These
+good people having regaled us with fresh salmon, we left them, and
+arrived very soon at a rapid, opposite an island, named _Strawberry
+Island_ by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1806. We left our men at a
+large village, to take care of the canoe and baggage; and following our
+guide, after walking about two hours, in a beaten path, we came to the
+foot of the fall, where we amused ourselves for some time with shooting
+the seals, which were here in abundance, and in watching the Indians
+taking salmon below the cataract, in their scoop-nets, from stages
+erected for that purpose over the eddies. A chief, a young man of fine
+person and a good mien, came to us, followed by some twenty others, and
+invited us to his wigwam: we accompanied him, had roasted salmon for
+supper, and some mats were spread for our night's repose.
+
+[Footnote H: These facts, if they were authenticated, would prove that
+the Spaniards were the first who discovered the mouth of the Columbia.
+It is certain that long before the voyages of Captains Gray and
+Vancouver, they knew at least a part of the course of that river, which
+was designated in their maps under the name of _Oregon_.]
+
+The next morning, having ascertained that there was no trading post near
+the Falls, and Coalpo absolutely refusing to proceed further, alleging
+that the natives of the villages beyond were his enemies, and would not
+fail to kill him if they had him in their power, we decided to return to
+the encampment. Having, therefore, distributed some presents to our host
+(I mean the young chief with whom we had supped and lodged) and to some
+of his followers, and procured a supply of fresh salmon for the return
+voyage, we re-embarked and reached the camp on the 14th, without
+accidents or incidents worth relating.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     Departure of the Tonquin.--Indian Messengers.--Project of an
+     Expedition to the Interior.--Arrival of Mr. Daniel
+     Thompson.--Departure of the Expedition.--Designs upon us by the
+     Natives.--Rumors of the Destruction of the Tonquin.--Scarcity of
+     Provisions.--Narrative of a strange Indian.--Duplicity and Cunning
+     of Comcomly.
+
+
+Having built a warehouse (62 feet by 20) to put under cover the articles
+we were to receive from the ship, we were busily occupied, from the 16th
+to the 30th, in stowing away the goods and other effects intended for
+the establishment.
+
+The ship, which had been detained by circumstances, much longer than had
+been anticipated, left her anchorage at last, on the 1st of June, and
+dropped down to Baker's bay, there to wait for a favorable wind to get
+out of the river. As she was to coast along the north, and enter all the
+harbors, in order to procure as many furs as possible, and to touch at
+the Columbia river before she finally left these seas for the United
+States, it was unanimously resolved among the partners, that Mr. M'Kay
+should join the cruise, as well to aid the captain, as to obtain correct
+information in regard to the commerce with the natives on that coast.
+Mr. M'Kay selected Messrs. J. Lewis and O. de Montigny to accompany him;
+but the latter having represented that the sea made him sick, was
+excused; and Mr. M'Kay shipped in his place a young man named Louis
+Bruslé, to serve him in the capacity of domestic, being one of the young
+Canadian sailors. I had the good fortune not to be chosen for this
+disastrous voyage, thanks to my having made myself useful at the
+establishment. Mr. Mumford (the second mate) owed the same happiness to
+the incompatibility of his disposition with that of the captain; he had
+permission to remain, and engaged with the company in place of Mr. Aikin
+as coaster, and in command of the schooner.[I]
+
+[Footnote I: This schooner was found too small for the purpose. Mr.
+Astor had no idea of the dangers to be met at the mouth of the Colombia,
+or he would have ordered the frame of a vessel of at least one hundred
+tons. The frames shipped in New York were used in the construction of
+this one only, which was employed solely in the river trade.]
+
+On the 5th of June, the ship got out to sea, with a good wind. We
+continued in the meantime to labor without intermission at the
+completion of the storehouse, and in the erection of a dwelling for
+ourselves, and a powder magazine. These buildings were constructed of
+hewn logs, and, in the absence of boards, tightly covered and roofed
+with cedar bark. The natives, of both sexes, visited us more frequently,
+and formed a pretty considerable camp near the establishment.
+
+On the 15th, some natives from up the river, brought us two strange
+Indians, a man and a woman. They were not attired like the savages on
+the river Columbia, but wore long robes of dressed deer-skin, with
+leggings and moccasins in the fashion of the tribes to the east of the
+Rocky Mountains. We put questions to them in various Indian dialects;
+but they did not understand us. They showed us a letter addressed to
+"_Mr. John Stuart, Fort Estekatadene, New Caledonia_." Mr. Pillet then
+addressing them in the _Knisteneaux_ language, they answered, although
+they appeared not to understand it perfectly. Notwithstanding, we
+learned from them that they had been sent by a Mr. Finnan M'Donald, a
+clerk in the service of the Northwest Company, and who had a post on a
+river which they called _Spokan_; that having lost their way, they had
+followed the course of the _Tacousah-Tesseh_ (the Indian name of the
+Columbia), that when they arrived at the Falls, the natives made them
+understand that there were white men at the mouth of the river; and not
+doubting that the person to whom the letter was addressed would be found
+there, they had come to deliver it.
+
+We kept these messengers for some days, and having drawn from them
+important information respecting the country in the interior, west of
+the Mountains, we decided to send an expedition thither, under the
+command of Mr. David Stuart; and the 15th July was fixed for its
+departure.
+
+All was in fact ready on the appointed day, and we were about to load
+the canoes, when toward midday, we saw a large canoe, with a flag
+displayed at her stern, rounding the point which we called _Tongue
+Point_. We knew not who it could be; for we did not so soon expect our
+own party, who (as the reader will remember) were to cross the
+continent, by the route which Captains Lewis and Clarke had followed, in
+1805, and to winter for that purpose somewhere on the Missouri. We were
+soon relieved of our uncertainty by the arrival of the canoe, which
+touched shore at a little wharf that we had built to facilitate the
+landing of goods from the vessel. The flag she bore was the British, and
+her crew was composed of eight Canadian boatmen or _voyageurs_. A
+well-dressed man, who appeared to be the commander, was the first to
+leap ashore, and addressing us without ceremony, said that his name was
+David Thompson, and that he was one of the partners of the Northwest
+Company. We invited him to our quarters, which were at one end of the
+warehouse, the dwelling-house not being yet completed. After the usual
+civilities had been extended to our visitor, Mr. Thompson said that he
+had crossed the continent during the preceding season; but that the
+desertion of a portion of his men had compelled him to winter at the
+base of the Rocky mountains, at the head waters of the Columbia. In the
+spring he had built a canoe, the materials for which he had brought with
+him across the mountains, and had come down the river to our
+establishment. He added that the wintering partners had resolved to
+abandon all their trading posts west of the mountains, not to enter into
+competition with us, provided our company would engage not to encroach
+upon their commerce on the east side: and to support what he said,
+produced a letter to that effect, addressed by the wintering partners to
+the chief of their house in Canada, the Hon. William M'Gillivray.
+
+Mr. Thompson kept a regular journal, and travelled, I thought, more like
+a geographer than a fur-trader. He was provided with a sextant,
+chronometer and barometer, and during a week's sojourn which he made at
+our place, had an opportunity to make several astronomical
+observations. He recognised the two Indians who had brought the letter
+addressed to Mr. J. Stuart, and told us that they were two women, one of
+whom had dressed herself as a man, to travel with more security. The
+description which he gave us of the interior of the country was not
+calculated to give us a very favorable idea of it, and did not perfectly
+accord with that of our two Indian guests. We persevered, however, in
+the resolution we had taken, of sending an expedition thither; and, on
+the 23d Mr. D. Stuart set out, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Boss,
+M'Clellan and de Montigny, with four Canadian _voyageurs_, and the two
+Indian women, and in company with Mr. Thompson and his crew. The wind
+being favorable, the little flotilla hoisted sail, and was soon out of
+our sight.[J]
+
+[Footnote J: Mr. Thompson had no doubt been sent by the agents of the
+Northwest Company, to take possession of an eligible spot at the mouth
+of the Columbia, with a view of forestalling the plan of Mr. Astor. He
+would have been there before us, no doubt, but for the desertion of his
+men. The consequence of this step would have been his taking possession
+of the country, and displaying the British flag, as an emblem, of that
+possession and a guarantee of protection hereafter. He found himself too
+late, however, and the stars and stripes floating over _Astoria_. This
+note is not intended by the author as an after-thought: as the opinion
+it conveys was that which we all entertained at the time of that
+gentleman's visit.]
+
+The natives, who till then had surrounded us in great numbers, began to
+withdraw, and very soon we saw no more of them. At first we attributed
+their absence to the want of furs to trade with; but we soon learned
+that they acted in that manner from another motive. One of the secondary
+chiefs who had formed a friendship for Mr. R. Stuart, informed him, that
+seeing us reduced in number by the expedition lately sent off, they had
+formed the design of surprising us, to take our lives and plunder the
+post. We hastened, therefore, to put ourselves in the best possible
+state of defence. The dwelling house was raised, parallel to the
+warehouse; we cut a great quantity of pickets in the forest, and formed
+a square, with palisades in front and rear, of about 90 feet by 120; the
+warehouse, built on the edge of a ravine, formed one flank, the dwelling
+house and shops the other; with a little bastion at each angle north
+and south, on which were mounted four small cannon. The whole was
+finished in six days, and had a sufficiently formidable aspect to deter
+the Indians from attacking us; and for greater surety, we organized a
+guard for day and night.
+
+Toward the end of the month, a large assemblage of Indians from the
+neighborhood of the straits _Juan de Fuca_, and _Gray's Harbor_, formed
+a great camp on Baker's Bay, for the ostensible object of fishing for
+sturgeon. It was bruited among these Indians that the Tonquin had been
+destroyed on the coast, and Mr. M'Kay (or the chief trader, as they
+called him) and all the crew, massacred by the natives. We did not give
+credence to this rumor. Some days after, other Indians from Gray's
+Harbor, called _Tchikeylis_, confirmed what the first had narrated, and
+even gave us, as far as we could judge by the little we knew of their
+language, a very circumstantial detail of the affair, so that without
+wholly convincing us, it did not fail to make a painful impression on
+our minds, and keep us in an excited state of feeling as to the truth
+of the report. The Indians of the Bay looked fiercer and more warlike
+than those of our neighborhood; so we redoubled our vigilance, and
+performed a regular daily drill to accustom ourselves to the use of
+arms.
+
+To the necessity of securing ourselves against an attack on the part of
+the natives, was joined that of obtaining a stock of provisions for the
+winter: those which we had received from the vessel were very quickly
+exhausted, and from the commencement of the month of July we were forced
+to depend upon fish. Not having brought hunters with us, we had to rely
+for venison, on the precarious hunt of one of the natives who had not
+abandoned us when the rest of his countrymen retired. This man brought
+us from time to time, a very lean and very dry doe-elk, for which we had
+to pay, notwithstanding, very dear. The ordinary price of a stag was a
+blanket, a knife, some tobacco, powder and ball, besides supplying our
+hunter with a musket. This dry meat, and smoke-dried fish, constituted
+our daily food, and that in very insufficient quantity for hardworking
+men. "We had no bread, and vegetables, of course, were quite out of the
+question. In a word our fare was not sumptuous. Those who accommodated
+themselves best to our mode of living were the Sandwich-islanders:
+salmon and elk were to them exquisite viands.
+
+On the 11th of August a number of Chinooks visited us, bringing a
+strange Indian, who had, they said, something interesting to
+communicate. This savage told us, in fact, that he had been engaged with
+ten more of his countrymen, by a Captain _Ayres_, to hunt seals on the
+islands in _Sir Francis Drake's Bay_, where these animals are very
+numerous, with a promise of being taken home and paid for their
+services; the captain had left them on the islands, to go southwardly
+and purchase provisions, he said, of the Spaniards of Monterey in
+California; but he had never returned: and they, believing that he had
+been wrecked, had embarked in a skiff which he had left them, and had
+reached the main land, from which they were not far distant; but their
+skiff was shattered to pieces in the surf, and they had saved
+themselves by swimming. Believing that they were not far from the river
+Columbia, they had followed the shore, living, on the way, upon
+shell-fish and frogs; at last they arrived among strange Indians, who,
+far from receiving them kindly, had killed eight of them and made the
+rest prisoners; but the _Klemooks_, a neighboring tribe to the
+_Clatsops_, hearing that they were captives, had ransomed them.
+
+These facts must have occurred in March or April, 1811. The Indian who
+gave us an account of them, appeared to have a great deal of
+intelligence and knew some words of the English language. He added that
+he had been at the Russian trading post at _Chitka_, that he had visited
+the coast of California, the Sandwich islands, and even China.
+
+About this time, old Comcomly sent to _Astoria_ for Mr. Stuart and me,
+to come and cure him of a swelled throat, which, he said, afflicted him
+sorely. As it was late in the day, we postponed till to-morrow going to
+cure the chief of the Chinooks; and it was well we did; for, the same
+evening, the wife of the Indian who had accompanied us in our voyage to
+the Falls, sent us word that Comcomly was perfectly well, the pretended
+_tonsillitis_ being only a pretext to get us in his power. This timely
+advice kept us at home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     Occupations at Astoria.--Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+     Expedition to the Interior.--New Expedition.--Excursion in Search
+     of three Deserters.
+
+
+On the 26th of September our house was finished, and we took possession
+of it. The mason work had at first caused us some difficulty; but at
+last, not being able to make lime for want of lime-stones, we employed
+blue clay as a substitute for mortar. This dwelling-house was
+sufficiently spacious to hold all our company, and we had distributed it
+in the most convenient manner that we could. It comprised a sitting, a
+dining room, some lodging or sleeping rooms, and an apartment for the
+men and artificers, all under the same roof. We also completed a shop
+for the blacksmith, who till that time had worked in the open air.
+
+The schooner, the construction of which had necessarily languished for
+want of an adequate force at the ship-yard, was finally launched on the
+2d of October, and named the _Dolly_, with the formalities usual on such
+occasions. I was on that day at _Young's Bay_, where I saw the ruins of
+the quarters erected by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1805-'06: they
+were but piles of rough, unhewn logs, overgrown with parasite creepers.
+
+On the evening of the 5th, Messrs. Pillet and M'Lellan arrived, from the
+party of Mr. David Stuart, in a canoe manned by two of his men. They
+brought, as passengers, Mr. Régis Bruguier, whom I had known in Canada
+as a respectable country merchant, and an Iroquois family. Mr. Bruguier
+had been a trader among the Indians on the Saskatchawine river, where he
+had lost his outfit: he had since turned trapper, and had come into this
+region to hunt beaver, being provided with traps and other needful
+implements. The report which these gentlemen gave of the interior was
+highly satisfactory: they had found the climate salubrious, and had
+been well received by the natives. The latter possessed a great number
+of horses, and Mr. Stuart had purchased several of these animals at a
+low price. Ascending the river they had come to a pretty stream, which
+the natives called _Okenakan_. Mr. Stuart had resolved to establish his
+post on the bank of this river, and having erected a log-house, he
+thought best to send back the above named persons, retaining with him,
+for the winter, only Messrs. Ross and de Montigny, and two men.[K]
+
+[Footnote K: One of these men bad been left with him by Mr. Thompson, in
+exchange for a Sandwich-islander whom that gentleman proposed to take to
+Canada, and thence to England.]
+
+Meanwhile, the season being come when the Indians quit the seashore and
+the banks of the Columbia, to retire into the woods and establish their
+winter quarters along the small streams and rivers, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, having received no supplies from them for
+some time. It was therefore determined that Mr. R. Stuart should set out
+in the schooner with Mr. Mumford, for the threefold purpose, of
+obtaining all the provisions they could, cutting oaken staves for the
+use of the cooper, and trading with the Indians up the river. They left
+with this design on the 12th. At the end of five days Mr. Mumford
+returned in a canoe of Indians. This man having wished to assume the
+command, and to order (in the style of Captain Thorn) the person who had
+engaged him to obey, had been sent back in consequence to _Astoria_.
+
+On the 10th of November we discovered that three of our people had
+absconded, viz., P.D. Jeremie, and the two Belleaux. They had leave to
+go out shooting for two days, and carried off with them firearms and
+ammunition, and a handsome light Indian canoe. As soon as their flight
+was known, having procured a large canoe of the Chinooks, we embarked,
+Mr. Matthews and I, with five natives, to pursue them, with orders to
+proceed as far as the Falls, if necessary. On the 11th, having ascended
+the river to a place called _Oak Point_, we overtook the schooner lying
+at anchor, while Mr. Stuart was taking in a load of staves and
+hoop-poles. Mr. Farnham joined our party, as well as one of the hands,
+and thus reinforced, we pursued our way, journeying day and night, and
+stopping at every Indian village, to make inquiries and offer a reward
+for the apprehension of our runaways. Having reached the Falls without
+finding any trace of them, and our provisions giving out, we retraced
+our steps, and arrived on the 16th at Oak Point, which we found Mr.
+Stuart ready to quit.
+
+Meanwhile, the natives of the vicinity informed us that they had seen
+the marks of shoes imprinted on the sand, at the confluence of a small
+stream in the neighborhood. We got three small canoes, carrying two
+persons each, and having ascertained that the information was correct,
+after searching the environs during a part of the 17th, we ascended the
+small stream as far as some high lands which are seen from Oak Point,
+and which lie about eight or nine miles south of it. The space between
+these high lands and the ridge crowned with oaks on the bank of the
+Columbia, is a low and swampy land, cut up by an infinity of little
+channels. Toward evening we returned on our path, to regain the
+schooner; but instead of taking the circuitous way of the river, by
+which we had come, we made for Oak Point by the most direct route,
+through these channels; but night coming on, we lost ourselves. Our
+situation became the most disagreeable that can be imagined. Being
+unable to find a place where we could land, on account of the morass, we
+were obliged to continue rowing, or rather turning round, in this
+species of labyrinth, constantly kneeling in our little canoes, which
+any unlucky movement would infallibly have caused to upset. It rained in
+torrents and was dark as pitch. At last, after having wandered about
+during a considerable part of the night, we succeeded in gaining the
+edge of the mainland. Leaving there our canoes, because we could not
+drag them (as we attempted) through the forest, we crossed the woods in
+the darkness, tearing ourselves with the brush, and reached the
+schooner, at about two in the morning, benumbed with cold and exhausted
+with fatigue.
+
+The 18th was spent in getting in the remainder of the lading of the
+little vessel, and on the morning of the 19th we raised anchor, and
+dropped down abreast of the Kreluit village, where some of the Indians
+offering to aid us in the search after our deserters, Mr. Stuart put Mr.
+Farnham and me on shore to make another attempt. We passed that day in
+drying our clothes, and the next day embarked in a canoe, with one
+_Kreluit_ man and a squaw, and ascended the river before described as
+entering the Columbia at this place. We soon met a canoe of natives, who
+informed us that our runaways had been made prisoners by the chief of a
+tribe which dwells upon the banks of the Willamet river, and which they
+called _Cathlanaminim_. We kept on and encamped on a beach of sand
+opposite _Deer island_. There we passed a night almost as disagreeable
+as that of the 17th-18th. We had lighted a fire, and contrived a shelter
+of mats; but there came on presently a violent gust of wind, accompanied
+with a heavy rain: our fire was put out, our mats were carried away, and
+we could neither rekindle the one nor find the others: so that we had
+to remain all night exposed to the fury of the storm. As soon as it was
+day we re-embarked, and set ourselves to paddling with all our might to
+warm ourselves. In the evening we arrived near the village where our
+deserters were, and saw one of them on the skirts of it. We proceeded to
+the hut of the chief, where we found all three, more inclined to follow
+us than to remain as slaves among these barbarians. We passed the night
+in the chief's lodge, not without some fear and some precaution; this
+chief having the reputation of being a wicked man, and capable of
+violating the rights of parties. He was a man of high stature and a good
+mien, and proud in proportion, as we discovered by the chilling and
+haughty manner in which he received us. Farnham and I agreed to keep
+watch alternately, but this arrangement was superfluous, as neither of
+us could sleep a wink for the infernal thumping and singing made by the
+medicine men all night long, by a dying native. I had an opportunity of
+seeing the sick man make his last will and testament: having caused to
+be brought to him whatever he had that was most precious, his bracelets
+of copper, his bead necklace, his bow and arrows and quiver, his nets,
+his lines, his spear, his pipe, &c., he distributed the whole to his
+most intimate friends, with a promise on their part, to restore them, if
+he recovered.
+
+On the 22d, after a great deal of talk, and infinite quibbling on the
+part of the chief, we agreed with him for the ransom of our men. I had
+visited every lodge in the village and found but few of the young men,
+the greater part having gone on a fishing excursion; knowing, therefore,
+that the chief could not be supported by his warriors, I was resolved
+not be imposed upon, and as I knew where the firearms of the fugitives
+had been deposited, I would have them at all hazards; but we were
+obliged to give him all our blankets, amounting to eight, a brass
+kettle, a hatchet, a small pistol, much out of order, a powder-horn, and
+some rounds of ammunition: with these articles placed in a pile before
+him, we demanded the men's clothing, the three fowling-pieces, and
+their canoe, which he had caused to be hidden in the woods. Nothing but
+our firmness compelled him to accept the articles offered in exchange;
+but at last, with great reluctance, he closed the bargain, and suffered
+us to depart in the evening with the prisoners and the property.
+
+We all five (including the three deserters) embarked in the large canoe,
+leaving our Kreluit and his wife to follow in the other, and proceeded
+as far as the Cowlitzk, where we camped. The next day, we pursued our
+journey homeward, only stopping at the Kreluit village to get some
+provisions, and soon entered the group of islands which crowd the river
+above Gray's bay. On one of these we stopped to amuse ourselves with
+shooting some ducks, and meanwhile a smart breeze springing up, we split
+open a double-rush mat (which had served as a bag), to make a sail, and
+having cut a forked sapling for a mast, shipped a few boulders to stay
+the foot of it, and spread our canvass to the wind. We soon arrived in
+sight of Gray's bay, at a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles from our
+establishment. We had, notwithstanding, a long passage across, the
+river forming in this place, as I have before observed, a sort of lake,
+by the recession of its shores on either hand: but the wind was fair. We
+undertook, then, to cross, and quitted the island, to enter the broad,
+lake-like expanse, just as the sun was going down, hoping to reach
+Astoria in a couple of hours.
+
+We were not long before we repented of our temerity: for in a short time
+the sky became overcast, the wind increased till it blew with violence,
+and meeting with the tide, caused the waves to rise prodigiously, which
+broke over our wretched canoe, and filled it with water. We lightened it
+as much as we could, by throwing overboard the little baggage we had
+left, and I set the men to baling with our remaining brass kettle. At
+last, after having been, for three hours, the sport of the raging
+billows, and threatened every instant with being swallowed up, we had
+the unexpected happiness of landing in a cove on the north shore of the
+river. Our first care was to thank the Almighty for having delivered us
+from so imminent a danger. Then, when we had secured the canoe, and
+groped our way to the forest, where we made, with branches of trees, a
+shelter against the wind--still continuing to blow with violence, and
+kindled a great fire to warm us and dry our clothes. That did not
+prevent us from shivering the rest of the night, even in congratulating
+ourselves on the happiness of setting our foot on shore at the moment
+when we began quite to despair of saving ourselves at all.
+
+The morning of the 24th brought with it a clear sky, but no abatement in
+the violence of the wind, till toward evening, when we again embarked,
+and arrived with our deserters at the establishment, where they never
+expected to see us again. Some Indians who had followed us in a canoe,
+up to the moment when we undertook the passage across the evening
+before, had followed the southern shore, and making the portage of the
+isthmus of Tongue Point, had happily arrived at Astoria. These natives,
+not doubting that we were lost, so reported us to Mr. M'Dougal;
+accordingly that gentleman was equally overjoyed and astonished at
+beholding us safely landed, which procured, not only for us, but for the
+culprits, our companions, a cordial and hearty reception.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.--Occupations at
+     Astoria.--Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+     M'Lellan.--Account of their Journey.--Arrival of Mr. Wilson P.
+     Hunt.
+
+
+The natives having given us to understand that beaver was very abundant
+in the country watered by the Willamet, Mr. R. Stuart procured a guide,
+and set out, on the 5th of December, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet and
+M'Gillis and a few of the men, to ascend that river and ascertain
+whether or no it would be advisable to establish a trading-post on its
+banks. Mr. R. Bruguier accompanied them to follow his pursuits as a
+trapper.
+
+The season at which we expected the return of the Tonquin was now past,
+and we began to regard as too probable the report of the Indians of
+Gray's Harbor. We still flattered ourselves, notwithstanding, with the
+hope that perhaps that vessel had sailed for the East Indies, without
+touching at Astoria; but this was at most a conjecture.
+
+The 25th, Christmas-day, passed very agreeably: we treated the men, on
+that day, with the best the establishment afforded. Although that was no
+great affair, they seemed well satisfied; for they had been restricted,
+during the last few months, to a very meagre diet, living, as one may
+say, on sun-dried fish. On the 27th, the schooner having returned from
+her second voyage up the river, we dismantled her, and laid her up for
+the winter at the entrance of a small creek.
+
+The weather, which had been raining, almost without interruption, from
+the beginning of October, cleared up on the evening of the 31st; and the
+1st January, 1812, brought us a clear and serene sky. We proclaimed the
+new year with a discharge of artillery. A small allowance of spirits was
+served to the men, and the day passed in gayety, every one amusing
+himself as well as he could.
+
+The festival over, our people resumed their ordinary occupations: while
+some cut timber for building, and others made charcoal for the
+blacksmith, the carpenter constructed a barge, and the cooper made
+barrels for the use of the posts we proposed to establish in the
+interior. On the 18th, in the evening, two canoes full of white men
+arrived at the establishment. Mr. M'Dougal, the resident agent, being
+confined to his room by sickness, the duty of receiving the strangers
+devolved on me. My astonishment was not slight, when one of the party
+called me by name, as he extended his hand, and I recognised Mr. Donald
+M'Kenzie, the same who had quitted Montreal, with Mr. W.P. Hunt, in the
+month of July, 1810. He was accompanied by a Mr. Robert M'Lellan, a
+partner, Mr. John Reed, a clerk, and eight _voyageurs_, or boatmen.
+After having reposed themselves a little from their fatigues, these
+gentlemen recounted to us the history of their journey, of which the
+following is the substance.
+
+Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie, quitting Canada, proceeded by way of
+Mackinac and St. Louis, and ascended the Missouri, in the autumn of
+1810, to a place on that river called _Nadoway_, where they wintered.
+Here they were joined by Mr. R. M'Lellan, by a Mr. Crooks, and a Mr.
+Müller, traders with the Indians of the South, and all having business
+relations with Mr. Astor.
+
+In the spring of 1811, having procured two large keel-boats, they
+ascended the Missouri to the country of the _Arikaras_, or Rice Indians,
+where they disposed of their boats and a great part of their luggage, to
+a Spanish trader, by name _Manuel Lisa_. Having purchased of him, and
+among the Indians, 130 horses, they resumed their route, in the
+beginning of August, to the number of some sixty-five persons, to
+proceed across the mountains to the river Columbia. Wishing to avoid the
+_Blackfeet_ Indians, a warlike and ferocious tribe, who put to death all
+the strangers that fall into their hands, they directed their course
+southwardly, until they arrived at the 40th degree of latitude. Thence
+they turned to the northwest, and arrived, by-and-by, at an old fort,
+or trading post, on the banks of a little river flowing west. This post,
+which was then deserted, had been established, as they afterward
+learned, by a trader named Henry. Our people, not doubting that this
+stream would conduct them to the Columbia, and finding it navigable,
+constructed some canoes to descend it. Having left some hunters (or
+trappers) near the old fort, with Mr. Miller, who, dissatisfied with the
+expedition, was resolved to return to the United States, the party
+embarked; but very soon finding the river obstructed with rapids and
+waterfalls, after having upset some of the canoes, lost one man by
+drowning, and also a part of their baggage, perceiving that the stream
+was impracticable, they resolved to abandon their canoes and proceed on
+foot. The enterprise was one of great difficulty, considering the small
+stock of provisions they had left. Nevertheless, as there was no time to
+lose in deliberation, after depositing in a _cache_ the superfluous part
+of their baggage, they divided themselves into four companies, under
+the command of Messrs. M'Kenzie, Hunt, M'Lellan and Crooks, and
+proceeded to follow the course of the stream, which they named _Mad
+river_, on account of the insurmountable difficulties it presented.
+Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan took the right bank, and Messrs. Hunt and
+Crook the left. They counted on arriving very quickly at the Columbia;
+but they followed this Mad river for twenty days, finding nothing at all
+to eat, and suffering horribly from thirst. The rocks between which the
+river flows being so steep and abrupt as to prevent their descending to
+quench their thirst (so that even their dogs died of it), they suffered
+the torments of Tantalus, with this difference, that he had the water
+which he could not reach above his head, while our travellers had it
+beneath their feet. Several, not to die of this raging thirst, drank
+their own urine: all, to appease the cravings of hunger, ate beaver
+skins roasted in the evening at the camp-fire. They even were at last
+constrained to eat their moccasins. Those on the or southeast bank,
+suffered, however, less than the others, because they occasionally fell
+in with Indians, utterly wild indeed, and who fled at their approach,
+carrying off their horses. According to all appearances these savages
+had never seen white men. Our travellers, when they arrived in sight of
+the camp of one of these wandering hordes, approached it with as much
+precaution, and with the same stratagem that they would have used with a
+troop of wild beasts. Having thus surprised them, they would fire upon
+the horses, some of which would fall; but they took care to leave some
+trinkets on the spot, to indemnify the owners for what they had taken
+from them by violence. This resource prevented the party from perishing
+of hunger.
+
+Mr. M'Kenzie having overtaken Mr. M'Lellan, their two companies pursued
+the journey together. Very soon after this junction, they had an
+opportunity of approaching sufficiently near to Mr. Hunt, who, as I have
+remarked, was on the other bank, to speak to him, and inform him of
+their distressed state. Mr. Hunt caused a canoe to be made of a
+horse-hide; it was not, as one may suppose, very large; but they
+succeeded, nevertheless, by that means, in conveying a little
+horse-flesh to the people on the north bank. It was attempted, even, to
+pass them across, one by one (for the skiff would not hold any more);
+several had actually crossed to the south side, when, unhappily, owing
+to the impetuosity of the current, the canoe capsized, a man was
+drowned, and the two parties lost all hope of being able to unite. They
+continued their route, therefore, each on their own side of the river.
+In a short time those upon the north bank came to a more considerable
+stream, which they followed down. They also met, very opportunely, some
+Indians, who sold them a number of horses. They also encountered, in
+these parts, a young American, who was deranged, but who sometimes
+recovered his reason. This young man told them, in one of his lucid
+intervals, that he was from Connecticut, and was named Archibald Pelton;
+that he had come up the Missouri with Mr. Henry; that all the people at
+the post established by that trader were massacred by the Blackfeet;
+that he alone had escaped, and had been wandering, for three years
+since, with the _Snake_ Indians.[L] Our people took this young man with
+them. Arriving at the confluence with the Columbia, of the river whose
+banks they were following, they perceived that it was the same which had
+been called _Lewis river_, by the American captain of that name, in
+1805. Here, then, they exchanged their remaining horses for canoes, and
+so arrived at the establishment, safe and sound, it is true, but in a
+pitiable condition to see; their clothes being nothing but fluttering
+rags.
+
+[Footnote L: A thoroughly savage and lazy tribe, inhabiting the plains
+of the Columbia, between the 43d and 44th degrees of latitude.]
+
+The narrative of these gentlemen interested us very much. They added,
+that since their separation from Messrs. Hunt and Crooks, they had
+neither seen nor heard aught of them, and believed it impossible that
+they should arrive at the establishment before spring. They were
+mistaken, however, for Mr. Hunt arrived on the 15th February, with
+thirty men, one woman, and two children, having left Mr. Crooks, with
+five men, among the _Snakes_. They might have reached Astoria almost as
+soon as Mr. M'Kenzie, but they had passed from eight to ten days in the
+midst of a plain, among some friendly Indians, as well to recruit their
+strength, as to make search for two of the party, who had been lost in
+the woods. Not finding them, they had resumed their journey, and struck
+the banks of the Columbia a little lower down than the mouth of Lewis
+river, where Mr. M'Kenzie had come out.
+
+The arrival of so great a number of persons would have embarrassed us,
+had it taken place a month sooner. Happily, at this time, the natives
+were bringing in fresh fish in abundance. Until the 30th of March, we
+were occupied in preparing triplicates of letters and other necessary
+papers, in order to send Mr. Astor the news of our arrival, and of the
+reunion of the two expeditions. The letters were intrusted to Mr. John
+Reed, who quitted Astoria for St. Louis, in company with Mr.
+M'Lellan--another discontented partner, who wished to disconnect himself
+with the association,--and Mr. R. Stuart, who was conveying two
+canoe-loads of goods for his uncle's post on the _Okenakan_. Messrs.
+Farnham and M'Gillis set out at the same time, with a guide, and were
+instructed to proceed to the _cache_,[M] where the overland travellers
+had hidden their goods, near old Fort Henry, on the Mad river. I
+profited by this opportunity to write to my family in Canada. Two days
+after, Messrs. M'Kenzie and Matthews set out, with five or six men, as
+hunters, to make an excursion up the Willamet river.
+
+[Footnote M: These _caches_ are famous in all the narratives of overland
+travel, whether for trade or discovery. The manner of making them is
+described by Captains Lewis and Clarke, as follows: they choose a dry
+situation, then describing a circle of some twenty inches diameter,
+remove the sod as gently and carefully as possible. The hole is then
+sunk a foot deep or more, perpendicularly; it is then worked gradually
+wider as it descends, till it becomes six or seven feet deep, and shaped
+like a kettle, or the lower part of a large still. As the earth is dug
+out, it is handed up in a vessel, and carefully laid upon a skin or
+cloth, in which it is carried away, and usually thrown into the river,
+if there be one, or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of
+three or four inches thick is then made of dry sticks, on which is
+thrown hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods, after being well aired
+and dried, are laid down, and preserved from contact with the wall by a
+layer of other dried sticks, till all is stowed away. When the hole is
+nearly full, a hide is laid on top, and the earth is thrown upon this,
+and beaten down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the
+whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest
+appearance of an excavation. The first shower effaces every sign of what
+has been done, and such a cache is safe for years.--ED.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Arrival of the Ship Beaver.--Unexpected Return of Messrs. D.
+     Stuart, R. Stuart, M'Lelland, &c.--Cause of that Return.--Ship
+     discharging.--New Expeditions.--Hostile Attitude of the
+     Natives.--Departure of the Beaver.--Journeys of the Author.--His
+     Occupations at the Establishment.
+
+
+From the departure of the last outfit under Mr. M'Kenzie, nothing
+remarkable took place at Astoria, till the 9th of May. On that day we
+descried, to our great surprise and great joy, a sail in the offing,
+opposite the mouth of the river. Forthwith Mr. M'Dougal was despatched
+in a boat to the cape, to make the signals. On the morning of the 10th,
+the weather being fine and the sea smooth, the boat pushed out and
+arrived safely alongside. Soon after, the wind springing up, the vessel
+made sail and entered the river, where she dropped anchor, in Baker's
+Bay, at about 2 P.M. Toward evening the boat returned to the Fort, with
+the following passengers: Messrs. John Clarke of Canada (a wintering
+partner), Alfred Seton, George Ehnainger, a nephew of Mr. Astor
+(clerks), and two men. We learned from these gentlemen that the vessel
+was the _Beaver_, Captain _Cornelius Sowles_, and was consigned to us;
+that she left New York on the 10th of October, and had touched, in the
+passage, at _Massa Fuero_ and the Sandwich Isles. Mr. Clarke handed me
+letters from my father and from several of my friends: I thus learned
+that death had deprived me of a beloved sister.
+
+On the morning of the 11th, we were strangely surprised by the return of
+Messrs. D. Stuart, R. Stuart, R. M'Lelland, Crooks, Reed, and Farnham.
+This return, as sudden as unlooked for, was owing to an unfortunate
+adventure which befell the party, in ascending the river. When they
+reached the Falls, where the portage is very long, some natives came
+with their horses, to offer their aid in transporting the goods. Mr. R.
+Stuart, not distrusting them, confided to their care some bales of
+merchandise, which they packed on their horses: but, in making the
+transit, they darted up a narrow path among the rocks, and fled at full
+gallop toward the prairie, without its being possible to overtake them.
+Mr. Stuart had several shots fired over their heads, to frighten them,
+but it had no other effect than to increase their speed. Meanwhile our
+own people continued the transportation of the rest of the goods, and of
+the canoes; but as there was a great number of natives about, whom the
+success and impunity of those thieves had emboldened, Mr. Stuart thought
+it prudent to keep watch over the goods at the upper end of the portage,
+while Messrs. M'Lellan and Reed made the rear-guard. The last named
+gentleman, who carried, strapped to his shoulders, a tin box containing
+the letters and despatches for New York with which he was charged,
+happened to be at some distance from the former, and the Indians thought
+it a favorable opportunity to attack him and carry off his box, the
+brightness of which no doubt had tempted their cupidity. They threw
+themselves upon him so suddenly that he had no time to place himself on
+the defensive. After a short resistance, he received a blow on the head
+from a war club, which felled him to the ground, and the Indians seized
+upon their booty. Mr. M'Lellan perceiving what was done, fired his
+carabine at one of the robbers and made him bite the dust; the rest took
+to flight, but carried off the box notwithstanding. Mr. M'Lellan
+immediately ran up to Mr. Reed; but finding the latter motionless and
+bathed in blood, he hastened to rejoin Mr. Stuart, urging him to get
+away from these robbers and murderers. But Mr. Stuart, being a
+self-possessed and fearless man, would not proceed without ascertaining
+if Mr. Reed were really dead, or if he were, without carrying off his
+body; and notwithstanding the remonstrances of Mr. M'Lellan, taking his
+way back to the spot where the latter had left his companion, had not
+gone two hundred paces, when he met him coming toward them, holding his
+bleeding head with both hands.[N]
+
+[Footnote N: We were apprized of this unfortunate rencontre by natives
+from up the river, on the 15th of April, but disbelieved it. [It is
+curious to observe the want of military sagacity and precaution which
+characterized the operations of these traders, compared with the exact
+calculations of danger and the unfailing measures of defence, employed
+from the very outset by Captains Lewis and Clarke in the same country.
+There was one very audacious attempt at plunder made upon the latter;
+but besides that it cost the Indians a life or two, the latter lost
+property of their own far exceeding their booty. It is true that the
+American officers had a stronger force at their disposal than our
+merchants had, and that, too, consisting of experienced western hunters
+and veteran soldiers of the frontier; but it is not less interesting to
+note the difference, because it is easy to account for it.--J.V.H.]]
+
+The object of Mr. Reed's journey being defeated by the loss of his
+papers, he repaired, with the other gentlemen, to Mr. David Stuart's
+trading post, at Okenakan, whence they had all set out, in the beginning
+of May, to return to Astoria. Coming down the river, they fell in with
+Mr. R. Crooks, and a man named _John Day_. It was observed in the
+preceding chapter that Mr. Crooks remained with five men among some
+Indians who were there termed _friendly_: but this gentleman and his
+companion were the only members of that party who ever reached the
+establishment: and they too arrived in a most pitiable condition, the
+savages having stripped them of everything, leaving them but some bits
+of deerskin to cover their nakedness.
+
+On the 12th, the schooner, which had been sent down the river to the
+Beaver's anchorage, returned with a cargo (being the stores intended for
+Astoria), and the following passengers: to wit, Messrs. B. Clapp, J.C.
+Halsey, C.A. Nichols, and R. Cox, clerks; five Canadians, seven
+Americans (all mechanics), and a dozen Sandwich-islanders for the
+service of the establishment. The captain of the Beaver sounded the
+channel diligently for several days; but finding it scarcely deep enough
+for so large a vessel, he was unwilling to bring her up to Astoria. It
+was necessary, in consequence, to use the schooner as a lighter in
+discharging the ship, and this tedious operation occupied us during the
+balance of this month and a part of June.
+
+Captain Sowles and Mr. Clarke confirmed the report of the destruction of
+the Tonquin; they had learned it at Owhyhee, by means of a letter which
+a certain Captain Ebbetts, in the employ of Mr. Astor, had left there.
+It was nevertheless resolved that Mr. Hunt should embark upon the
+"Beaver," to carry out the plan of an exact commercial survey of the
+coast, which Mr. M'Kay had been sent to accomplish, and in particular to
+visit for that purpose the Russian establishments at Chitka sound.
+
+The necessary papers having been prepared anew, and being now ready to
+expedite, were confided to Mr. R. Stuart, who was to cross the continent
+in company with Messrs. Crooks and R. M'Lellan, partners dissatisfied
+with the enterprise, and who had made up their minds to return to the
+United States. Mr. Clark, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Donald,
+M'Lellan, Farnham and Cox, was fitted out at the same time, with a
+considerable assortment of merchandise, to form a new establishment on
+the _Spokan_ or Clarke's river. Mr. M'Kenzie, with Mr. Seton, was
+destined for the borders of _Lewis_ river: while Mr. David Stuart,
+reinforced by Messrs. Matthews and M'Gillis, was to explore the region
+lying north of his post at Okenakan. All these outfits being ready, with
+the canoes, boatmen, and hunters, the flotilla quitted Astoria on the
+30th of June, in the afternoon, having on board sixty-two persons. The
+sequel will show the result of the several expeditions.
+
+During the whole month of July, the natives (seeing us weakened no doubt
+by these outfits), manifested their hostile intentions so openly that we
+were obliged to be constantly on our guard. We constructed covered ways
+inside our palisades, and raised our bastions or towers another story.
+The alarm became so serious toward the latter end of the month that we
+doubled our sentries day and night, and never allowed more than two or
+three Indians at a time within our gates.
+
+The Beaver was ready to depart on her coasting voyage at the end of
+June, and on the 1st of July Mr. Hunt went on board: but westerly winds
+prevailing all that month, it was not till the 4th of August that she
+was able to get out of the river; being due again by the end of October
+to leave her surplus goods and take in our furs for market.
+
+The months of August and September were employed in finishing a house
+forty-five feet by thirty, shingled and perfectly tight, as a hospital
+for the sick, and lodging house for the mechanics.
+
+Experience having taught us that from the beginning of October to the
+end of January, provisions were brought in by the natives in very small
+quantity, it was thought expedient that I should proceed in the
+schooner, accompanied by Mr. Clapp, on a trading voyage up the river to
+secure a cargo of dried fish. We left Astoria on the 1st of October,
+with a small assortment of merchandise. The trip was highly successful:
+we found the game very abundant, killed a great quantity of swans,
+ducks, foxes, &c., and returned to Astoria on the 20th, with a part of
+our venison, wild fowl, and bear meat, besides seven hundred, and fifty
+smoked salmon, a quantity of the _Wapto_ root (so called by the
+natives), which is found a good substitute for potatoes, and four
+hundred and fifty skins of beaver and other animals of the furry tribe.
+
+The encouragement derived from this excursion, induced us to try a
+second, and I set off this time alone, that is, with a crew of five men
+only, and an Indian boy, son of the old chief Comcomly. This second
+voyage proved anything but agreeable. We experienced continual rains,
+and the game was much less abundant, while the natives had mostly left
+the river for their wintering grounds. I succeeded, nevertheless, in
+exchanging my goods for furs and dried fish, and a small supply of dried
+venison: and returned, on the 15th of November, to Astoria, where the
+want of fresh provisions began to be severely felt, so that several of
+the men were attacked with scurvy.
+
+Messrs. Halsey and Wallace having been sent on the 23d, with fourteen
+men, to establish a trading post on the Willamet, and Mr. M'Dougal being
+confined to his room by sickness, Mr. Clapp and I were left with the
+entire charge of the post at Astoria, and were each other's only
+resource for society. Happily Mr. Clapp was a man of amiable character,
+of a gay, lively humor, and agreeable conversation. In the intervals of
+our daily duties, we amused ourselves with music and reading; having
+some instruments and a choice library. Otherwise we should have passed
+our time in a state of insufferable ennui, at this rainy season, in the
+midst of the deep mud which surrounded us, and which interdicted the
+pleasure of a promenade outside the buildings.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     Uneasiness respecting the "Beaver."--News of the Declaration of War
+     between Great Britain and the United States.--Consequences of that
+     Intelligence.--Different Occurrences.--Arrival of two Canoes of the
+     Northwest Company.--Preparations for abandoning the
+     Country.--Postponement of Departure.--Arrangement with Mr. J.G.
+     M'Tavish.
+
+
+The months of October, November, and December passed away without any
+news of the "Beaver," and we began to fear that there had happened to
+her, as to the Tonquin, some disastrous accident. It will be seen, in
+the following chapter, why this vessel did not return to Astoria in the
+autumn of 1812.
+
+On the 15th of January, Mr. M'Kenzie arrived from the interior, having
+abandoned his trading establishment, after securing his stock of goods
+in a _cache_. Before his departure he had paid a visit to Mr. Clark on
+the Spokan, and while there had learned the news, which he came to
+announce to us, that hostilities had actually commenced between Great
+Britain and the United States. The news had been brought by some
+gentlemen of the Northwest Company, who handed to them a copy of the
+Proclamation of the President to that effect.
+
+When we learned this news, all of us at Astoria who were British
+subjects and Canadians, wished ourselves in Canada; but we could not
+entertain even the thought of transporting ourselves thither, at least
+immediately: we were separated from our country by an immense space; and
+the difficulties of the journey at this season were insuperable:
+besides, Mr. Astor's interests had to be consulted first. We held,
+therefore, a sort of council of war, to which the clerks of the factory
+were invited _pro formâ_, as they had no voice in the deliberations.
+Having maturely weighed our situation; after having seriously considered
+that being almost to a man British subjects, we were trading,
+notwithstanding, under the American flag: and foreseeing the
+improbability, or rather, to cut the matter short, the impossibility
+that Mr. Astor could send us further supplies or reinforcements while
+the war lasted, as most of the ports of the United States would
+inevitably be blockaded by the British; we concluded to abandon the
+establishment in the ensuing spring, or at latest, in the beginning of
+the summer. We did not communicate these resolutions to the men, lest
+they should in consequence abandon their labor: but we discontinued,
+from that moment, our trade with the natives, except for provisions; as
+well because we had no longer a large stock of goods on hand, as for the
+reason that we had already more furs than we could carry away overland.
+
+So long as we expected the return of the vessel, we had served out to
+the people a regular supply of bread: we found ourselves in consequence,
+very short of provisions, on the arrival of Mr. M'Kenzie and his men.
+This augmentation in the number of mouths to be fed compelled us to
+reduce the ration of each man to four ounces of flour and half a pound
+of dried fish _per diem_: and even to send a portion of the hands to
+pass the rest of the winter with Messrs. Wallace and Halsey on the
+Willamet, where game was plenty.
+
+Meanwhile, the sturgeon having begun to enter the river, I left, on the
+13th of February, to fish for them; and on the 15th sent the first
+boat-load to the establishment; which proved a very timely succor to the
+men, who for several days had broken off work from want of sufficient
+food. I formed a camp near Oak Point, whence I continued to despatch
+canoe after canoe of fine fresh fish to Astoria, and Mr. M'Dougal sent
+to me thither all the men who were sick of scurvy, for the
+re-establishment of their health.
+
+On the 20th of March, Messrs. Reed and Seton, who had led a part of our
+men to the post on the Willamet, to subsist them, returned to Astoria,
+with a supply of dried venison. These gentlemen spoke to us in glowing
+terms of the country of the Willamet as charming, and abounding in
+beaver, elk, and deer; and informed us that Messrs. Wallace and Halsey
+had constructed a dwelling and trading house, on a great prairie, about
+one hundred and fifty miles from the confluence of that river with the
+Columbia. Mr. M'Kenzie and his party quitted us again on the 31st, to
+make known the resolutions recently adopted at Astoria, to the gentlemen
+who were wintering in the interior.
+
+On the 11th of April two birch-bark canoes, bearing the British flag,
+arrived at the factory. They were commanded by Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish and
+Joseph Laroque, and manned by nineteen Canadian _voyageurs_. They landed
+on a point of land under the guns of the fort, and formed their camp. We
+invited these gentlemen to our quarters and learned from them the object
+of their visit. They had come to await the arrival of the ship _Isaac
+Todd_, despatched from Canada by the Northwest Company, in October,
+1811, with furs, and from England in March, 1812, with a cargo of
+suitable merchandise for the Indian trade. They had orders to wait at
+the mouth of the Columbia till the month of July, and then to return, if
+the vessel did not make her appearance by that time. They also informed
+us that the natives near Lewis river had shown them fowling-pieces,
+gun-flints, lead, and powder; and that they had communicated this news
+to Mr. M'Kenzie, presuming that the Indians had discovered and plundered
+his _cache_; which turned out afterward to be the case.
+
+The month of May was occupied in preparations for our departure from the
+Columbia. On the 25th, Messrs. Wallace and Halsey returned from their
+winter quarters with seventeen packs of furs, and thirty-two bales of
+dried venison. The last article was received with a great deal of
+pleasure, as it would infallibly be needed for the journey we were about
+to undertake. Messrs. Clarke, D. Stuart and M'Kenzie also arrived, in
+the beginning of June, with one hundred and forty packs of furs, the
+fruit of two years' trade at the post on the _Okenakan_, and one year on
+the _Spokan_.[O]
+
+[Footnote O: The profits of the last establishment were slender; because
+the people engaged at it were obliged to subsist on horse-flesh, and
+they ate ninety horses during the winter.]
+
+The wintering partners (that is to say, Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart)
+dissenting from the proposal to abandon the country as soon as we
+intended, the thing being (as they observed) impracticable, from the
+want of provisions for the journey and horses to transport the goods;
+the project was deferred, as to its execution, till the following April.
+So these gentlemen, having taken a new lot of merchandise, set out again
+for their trading posts on the 7th of July. But Mr. M'Kenzie, whose
+goods had been pillaged by the natives (it will be remembered), remained
+at Astoria, and was occupied with the care of collecting as great a
+quantity as possible of dried salmon from the Indians. He made seven or
+eight voyages up the river for that purpose, while we at the Fort were
+busy in baling the beaver-skins and other furs, in suitable packs for
+horses to carry. Mr. Reed, in the meantime, was sent on to the
+mountain-passes where Mr. Miller had been left with the trappers, to
+winter, there, and to procure as many horses as he could from the
+natives for our use in the contemplated journey. He was furnished for
+this expedition with three Canadians, and a half-breed hunter named
+_Daion_, the latter accompanied by his wife and two children. This man
+came from the lower Missouri with Mr. Hunt in 1811-'12.
+
+Our object being to provide ourselves, before quitting the country, with
+the food and horses necessary for the journey; in order to avoid all
+opposition on the part of the Northwest Company, we entered into an
+arrangement with Mr. M'Tavish. This gentleman having represented to us
+that he was destitute of the necessary goods to procure wherewith to
+subsist his party on their way homeward, we supplied him from our
+warehouse, payment to be made us in the ensuing spring, either in furs
+or in bills of exchange on their house in Canada.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     Arrival of the Ship "Albatross."--Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+     the Beaver at Astoria.--Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a
+     Former Occasion.--Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the
+     Resolution of the Partners.--His Departure.--Narrative of the
+     Destruction of the Tonquin.--Causes of that Disaster.--Reflections.
+
+
+On the 4th of August, contrary to all expectation, we saw a sail at the
+mouth of the river. One of our gentlemen immediately got into the barge,
+to ascertain her nationality and object: but before he had fairly
+crossed the river, we saw her pass the bar and direct her course toward
+Astoria, as if she were commanded by a captain to whom the intricacies
+of the channel were familiar. I had stayed at the Fort with Mr. Clapp
+and four men. As soon as we had recognised the American flag, not
+doubting any longer that it was a ship destined for the factory, we
+saluted her with three guns. She came to anchor over against the fort,
+but on the opposite side of the river, and returned our salute. In a
+short time after, we saw, or rather we heard, the oars of a boat (for it
+was already night) that came toward us. We expected her approach with
+impatience, to know who the stranger was, and what news she brought us.
+Soon we were relieved from our uncertainty by the appearance of Mr.
+Hunt, who informed us that the ship was called the _Albatross_ and was
+commanded by Captain _Smith_.
+
+It will be remembered that Mr. Hunt had sailed from Astoria on board the
+"Beaver," on the 4th of August of the preceding year, and should have
+returned with that vessel, in the month of October of the same year. We
+testified to him our surprise that he had not returned at the time
+appointed, and expressed the fears which we had entertained in regard to
+his fate, as well as that of the Beaver itself: and in reply he
+explained to us the reasons why neither he nor Captain Sowles had been
+able to fulfil the promise which they had made us.
+
+After having got clear of the river Columbia, they had scudded to the
+north, and had repaired to the Russian post of Chitka, where they had
+exchanged a part of their goods for furs. They had made with the
+governor of that establishment, Barnoff by name, arrangements to supply
+him regularly with all the goods of which he had need, and to send him
+every year a vessel for that purpose, as well as for the transportation
+of his surplus furs to the East Indies. They had then advanced still
+further to the north, to the coast of _Kamskatka_; and being there
+informed that some Kodiak hunters had been left on some adjacent isles,
+called the islands of St. Peter and St. Paul, and that these hunters had
+not been visited for three years, they determined to go thither, and
+having reached those isles, they opened a brisk trade, and secured no
+less than eighty thousand skins of the South-sea seal. These operations
+had consumed a great deal of time; the season was already far advanced;
+ice was forming around them, and it was not without having incurred
+considerable dangers that they succeeded in making their way out of
+those latitudes. Having extricated themselves from the frozen seas of
+the north, but in a shattered condition, they deemed it more prudent to
+run for the Sandwich isles, where they arrived after enduring a
+succession of severe gales. Here Mr. Hunt disembarked, with the men who
+had accompanied him, and who did not form a part of the ship's crew; and
+the vessel, after undergoing the necessary repairs, set sail for Canton.
+
+Mr. Hunt had then passed nearly six months at the Sandwich islands,
+expecting the annual ship from New York, and never imagining that war
+had been declared. But at last, weary of waiting so long to no purpose,
+he had bought a small schooner of one of the chiefs of the isle of
+Wahoo, and was engaged in getting her ready to sail for the mouth of the
+Columbia, when four sails hove in sight, and presently came to anchor in
+_Ohetity bay_. He immediately, went on board of one of them, and learned
+that they came from the Indies, whence they had sailed precipitately, to
+avoid the English cruisers. He also learned from the captain of the
+vessel he boarded, that the Beaver had arrived in Canton some days
+before the news of the declaration of war. This Captain Smith, moreover,
+had on board some cases of nankeens and other goods shipped by Mr.
+Astor's agent at Canton for us. Mr. Hunt then chartered the Albatross to
+take him with his people and the goods to the Columbia. That gentleman
+had not been idle during the time that he sojourned at Wahoo: he brought
+us 35 barrels of salt pork or beef, nine tierces of rice, a great
+quantity of dried _Taro_, and a good supply of salt.
+
+As I knew the channel of the river, I went on board the Albatross, and
+piloted her to the old anchorage of the Tonquin, under the guns of the
+Fort, in order to facilitate the landing of the goods.
+
+Captain Smith informed us that in 1810, a year before the founding of
+our establishment, he had entered the river in the same vessel, and
+ascended it in boats as far as Oak Point; and that he had attempted to
+form an establishment there; but the spot which he chose for building,
+and on which he had even commenced fencing for a garden, being
+overflowed in the summer freshet, he had been forced to abandon his
+project and re-embark. We had seen, in fact, at Oak Point, some traces
+of this projected establishment. The bold manner in which this captain
+had entered the river was now accounted for.
+
+Captain Smith had chartered his vessel to a Frenchman named _Demestre_,
+who was then a passenger on board of her, to go and take a cargo of
+sandal wood at the _Marquesas_, where that gentleman had left some men
+to collect it, the year before. He could not, therefore, comply with the
+request we made him, to remain during the summer with us, in order to
+transport our goods and people, as soon as they could be got together,
+to the Sandwich islands.
+
+Mr. Hunt was surprised beyond measure, when we informed him of the
+resolution we had taken of abandoning the country: he blamed us severely
+for having acted with so much precipitation, pointing out that the
+success of the late coasting voyage, and the arrangements we had made
+with the Russians, promised a most advantageous trade, which it was a
+thousand pities to sacrifice, and lose the fruits of the hardships he
+had endured and the dangers he had braved, at one fell swoop, by this
+rash measure. Nevertheless, seeing the partners were determined to abide
+by their first resolution, and not being able, by himself alone, to
+fulfil his engagements to Governor Barnoff, he consented to embark once
+more, in order to seek a vessel to transport our heavy goods, and such
+of us as wished to return by sea. He sailed, in fact, on the Albatross,
+at the end of the month. My friend Clapp embarked with him: they were,
+in the first instance, to run down the coast of California, in the hope
+of meeting there some of the American vessels which frequently visit
+that coast to obtain provisions from the Spaniards.
+
+Some days after the departure of Mr. Hunt, the old one-eyed chief
+Comcomly came to tell us that an Indian of _Gray's Harbor_, who had
+sailed on the Tonquin in 1811, and who was the only soul that had
+escaped the massacre of the crew of that unfortunate vessel, had
+returned to his tribe. As the distance from the River Columbia to Gray's
+Harbor was not great, we sent for this native. At first he made
+considerable difficulty about following our people, but was finally
+persuaded. He arrived at Astoria, and related to us the circumstances of
+that sad catastrophe, nearly as follows:[P]
+
+"After I had embarked on the Tonquin," said he, "that vessel sailed for
+_Nootka_.[Q] Having arrived opposite a large village called _Newity_, we
+dropped anchor. The natives having invited Mr. M'Kay to land, he did so,
+and was received in the most cordial manner: they even kept him several
+days at their village, and made him lie, every night, on a couch of
+sea-otter skins. Meanwhile the captain was engaged in trading with such
+of the natives as resorted to his ship: but having had a difficulty with
+one of the principal chiefs in regard to the price of certain goods, he
+ended by putting the latter out of the ship, and in the act of so
+repelling him, struck him on the face with the roll of furs which he had
+brought to trade. This act was regarded by that chief and his followers
+as the most grievous insult, and they resolved to take vengeance for it.
+To arrive more surely at their purpose, they dissembled their
+resentment, and came, as usual, on board the ship. One day, very early
+in the morning, a large pirogue, containing about a score of natives,
+came alongside: every man had in his hand a packet of furs, and held it
+over his head as a sign that they came to trade. The watch let them come
+on deck. A little after, arrived a second pirogue, carrying about as
+many men as the other. The sailors believed that these also came to
+exchange their furs, and allowed them to mount the ship's side like the
+first. Very soon, the pirogues thus succeeding one another, the crew
+saw themselves surrounded by a multitude of savages, who came upon the
+deck from all sides. Becoming alarmed at the appearance of things, they
+went to apprize the captain and Mr. M'Kay, who hastened to the poop. I
+was with them," said the narrator, "and fearing, from the great
+multitude of Indians whom I saw already on the deck, and from the
+movements of those on shore, who were hurrying to embark in their
+canoes, to approach the vessel, and from the women being left in charge
+of the canoes of those who had arrived, that some evil design was on
+foot, I communicated my suspicions to Mr. M'Kay, who himself spoke to
+the captain. The latter affected an air of security, and said that with
+the firearms on board, there was no reason to fear even a greater number
+of Indians. Meanwhile these gentlemen had come on deck unarmed, without
+even their sidearms. The trade, nevertheless, did not advance; the
+Indians offered less than was asked, and pressing with their furs close
+to the captain, Mr. M'Kay, and Mr. Lewis, repeated the word _Makoke!
+Makoke!_ "Trade! Trade!" I urged the gentlemen to put to sea, and the
+captain, at last, seeing the number of Indians increase every moment,
+allowed himself to be persuaded: he ordered a part of the crew to raise
+the anchor, and the rest to go aloft and unfurl the sails. At the same
+time he warned the natives to withdraw, as the ship was going to sea. A
+fresh breeze was then springing up, and in a few moments more their prey
+would have escaped them; but immediately on receiving this notice, by a
+preconcerted signal, the Indians, with a terrific yell, drew forth the
+knives and war-bludgeons they had concealed in their bundles of furs,
+and rushed upon the crew of the ship. Mr. Lewis was struck, and fell
+over a bale of blankets. Mr. M'Kay, however, was the first victim whom
+they sacrificed to their fury. Two savages, whom, from the crown of the
+poop, where I was seated, I had seen follow this gentleman step by step,
+now cast themselves upon him, and having given him a blow on the head
+with a _potumagan_ (a kind of sabre which is described a little below),
+felled him to the deck, then took him up and flung him into the sea,
+where the women left in charge of the canoes, quickly finished him with
+their paddles. Another set flung themselves upon the captain, who
+defended himself for a long time with his pocket-knife, but, overpowered
+by numbers, perished also under the blows of these murderers. I next saw
+(and that was the last occurrence of which I was witness before quitting
+the ship) the sailors who were aloft, slip down by the rigging, and get
+below through the steerage hatchway. They were five, I think, in number,
+and one of them, in descending, received a knife-stab in the back. I
+then jumped overboard, to escape a similar fate to that of the captain
+and Mr. M'Kay: the women in the canoes, to whom I surrendered myself as
+a slave, took me in, and bade me hide myself under some mats which were
+in the pirogues; which I did. Soon after, I heard the discharge of
+firearms, immediately upon which the Indians fled from the vessel, and
+pulled for the shore as fast as possible, nor did they venture to go
+alongside the ship again the whole of that day. The next day, haying
+seen four men lower a boat, and pull away from the ship, they sent some
+pirogues in chase: but whether those men were overtaken and murdered, or
+gained the open sea and perished there, I never could learn. Nothing
+more was seen stirring on board the Tonquin; the natives pulled
+cautiously around her, and some of the more daring went on board; at
+last, the savages, finding themselves absolute masters of the ship,
+rushed on board in a crowd to pillage her. But very soon, when there
+were about four or five hundred either huddled together on deck, or
+clinging to the sides, all eager for plunder, the ship blew up with a
+horrible noise. "I was on the shore," said the Indian, "when the
+explosion took place, saw the great volume of smoke burst forth in the
+spot where the ship had been, and high in the air above, arms, legs,
+heads and bodies, flying in every direction. The tribe acknowledged a
+loss of over two hundred of their people on that occasion. As for me I
+remained their prisoner, and have been their slave for two years. It is
+but now that I have been ransomed by my friends. I have told you the
+truth, and hope you will acquit me of having in any way participated in
+that bloody affair."
+
+[Footnote P: It being understood, of course, that I render into
+civilized expressions the language of this barbarian, and represent by
+words and phrases what he could only convey by gestures or by signs.
+[The _naïveté_ of those notes, and of the narrative in these passages,
+is amusing.--ED.]]
+
+[Footnote Q: A great village or encampment of Indians, among whom the
+Spaniards had sent missionaries under the conduct of Signor Quadra; but
+whence the latter were chased by Captain Vancouver, in 1792, as
+mentioned in the Introduction.]
+
+Our Indian having finished his discourse, we made him presents
+proportioned to the melancholy satisfaction he had given us in
+communicating the true history of the sad fate of our former companions,
+and to the trouble he had taken in coming to us; so that he returned
+apparently well satisfied with our liberality.
+
+According to the narrative of this Indian, Captain Thorn, by his abrupt
+manner and passionate temper, was the primary cause of his own death and
+that of all on board his vessel. What appears certain at least, is, that
+he was guilty of unpardonable negligence and imprudence, in not causing
+the boarding netting to be rigged, as is the custom of all the
+navigators who frequent this coast, and in suffering (contrary to his
+instructions) too great a number of Indians to come on board at once.[R]
+
+[Footnote R: It is equally evident that even at the time when Captain
+Thorn was first notified of the dangerous crowd and threatening
+appearance of the natives, a display of firearms would have sufficed to
+prevent an outbreak. Had he come on deck with Mr. M'Kay and Mr. Lewis,
+each armed with a musket, and a couple of pistols at the belt, it is
+plain from the timidity the savages afterward displayed, that he might
+have cleared the ship, probably without shedding a drop of blood.--ED.]
+
+Captain Smith, of the Albatross, who had seen the wreck of the Tonquin,
+in mentioning to us its sad fate, attributed the cause of the disaster
+to the rash conduct of a Captain Ayres, of Boston. That navigator had
+taken off, as I have mentioned already, ten or a dozen natives of
+New-itty, as hunters, with a promise of bringing them back to their
+country, which promise he inhumanly broke by leaving them on some desert
+islands in Sir Francis Drake's Bay. The countrymen of these
+unfortunates, indignant at the conduct of the American captain, had
+sworn to avenge themselves on the first white men who appeared among
+them. Chance willed it that our vessel was the first to enter that bay,
+and the natives but too well executed on our people their project of
+vengeance.
+
+Whatever may, have been the first and principal cause of this misfortune
+(for doubtless it is necessary to suppose more than one), seventeen
+white men and twelve Sandwich-Islanders, were massacred: not one escaped
+from the butchery, to bring us the news of it, but the Indian of _Gray's
+Harbor_. The massacre of our people was avenged, it is true, by the
+destruction of ten times the number of their murderers; but this
+circumstance, which could perhaps gladden the heart of a savage, was a
+feeble consolation (if it was any) for civilized men. The death of Mr.
+Alexander M'Kay was an irreparable loss to the Company, which would
+probably have been dissolved by the remaining partners, but for the
+arrival of the energetic Mr. Hunt. Interesting as was the recital of the
+Indian of Gray's Harbor throughout, when he came to the unhappy end of
+that estimable man, marks of regret were visibly painted on the
+countenances of all who listened.
+
+At the beginning of September, Mr. M'Kenzie set off, with Messrs.
+Wallace and Seton, to carry a supply of goods to the gentlemen wintering
+in the interior, as well as to inform them of the arrangements
+concluded with Mr. Hunt, and to enjoin them to send down all their furs,
+and all the Sandwich-Islanders, that the former might be shipped for
+America, and the latter sent back to their country.
+
+
+     NOTE.
+
+     It will never be known how or by whom the _Tonquin_ was blown up.
+     Some pretend to say that it was the work of James Lewis, but that
+     is impossible, for it appears from the narrative of the Indian that
+     he was one of the first persons murdered. It will be recollected
+     that five men got between decks from aloft, during the affray, and
+     four only were seen to quit the ship afterward in the boat. The
+     presumption was that the missing man must have done it, and in
+     further conversation with the Gray's Harbor Indian, he inclined to
+     that opinion, and even affirmed that the individual was the ship's
+     armorer, _Weeks_. It might also have been accidental. There was a
+     large quantity of powder in the run immediately under the cabin,
+     and it is not impossible that while the Indians were intent on
+     plunder, in opening some of the kegs they may have set fire to the
+     contents. Or again, the men, before quitting the ship, may have
+     lighted a slow train, which is the most likely supposition of all.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+     Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Sale of
+     the Establishment at Astoria to that Company.--Canadian
+     News.--Arrival of the British Sloop-of-War "Raccoon."--Accident on
+     Board that Vessel.--The Captain takes Formal Possession of
+     Astoria.--Surprise and Discontent of the Officers and
+     Crew.--Departure of the "Raccoon."
+
+
+A few days after Mr. M'Kenzie left us, we were greatly surprised by the
+appearance of two canoes bearing the British flag, with a third between
+them, carrying the flag of the United States, all rounding Tongue Point.
+It was no other than Mr. M'Kenzie himself, returning with Messrs. J.G.
+M'Tavish and Angus Bethune, of the Northwest Company. He had met these
+gentlemen near the first rapids, and had determined to return with them
+to the establishment, in consequence of information which they gave him.
+Those gentlemen were in _light_ canoes (i.e., without any lading), and
+formed the vanguard to a flotilla of eight, loaded with furs, under the
+conduct of Messrs. John Stuart and M'Millan.
+
+Mr. M'Tavish came to our quarters at the factory, and showed Mr.
+M'Dougal a letter which had been addressed to the latter by Mr. Angus
+Shaw, his uncle, and one of the partners of the Northwest Company. Mr.
+Shaw informed his nephew that the ship _Isaac Todd_ had sailed from
+London, with letters of _marque_, in the month of March, in company with
+the frigate _Phoebe_, having orders from the government to seize our
+establishment, which had been represented to the lords of the admiralty
+as an important colony founded by the American government. The eight
+canoes left behind, came up meanwhile, and uniting themselves to the
+others, they formed a camp of about seventy-five men, at the bottom of a
+little bay or cove, near our factory. As they were destitute of
+provisions, we supplied them; but Messrs. M'Dougal and M'Kenzie
+affecting to dread a surprise from this British force under our guns,
+we kept strictly on our guard; for we were inferior in point of numbers,
+although our position was exceedingly advantageous.
+
+As the season advanced, and their ship did not arrive, our new neighbors
+found themselves in a very disagreeable situation, without food, or
+merchandise wherewith to procure it from the natives; viewed by the
+latter with a distrustful and hostile eye, as being our enemies and
+therefore exposed to attack and plunder on their part with impunity;
+supplied with good hunters, indeed, but wanting ammunition to render
+their skill available. Weary, at length, of applying to us incessantly
+for food (which we furnished them with a sparing hand), unable either to
+retrace their steps through the wilderness or to remain in their present
+position, they came to the conclusion of proposing to buy of us the
+whole establishment.
+
+Placed, as we were, in the situation of expecting, day by day, the
+arrival of an English ship-of-war to seize upon all we possessed, we
+listened to their propositions. Several meetings and discussions took
+place; the negotiations were protracted by the hope of one party that
+the long-expected armed force would arrive, to render the purchase
+unnecessary, and were urged forward by the other in order to conclude
+the affair before that occurrence should intervene; at length the price
+of the goods and furs in the factory was agreed upon, and the bargain
+was signed by both parties on the 23d of October. The gentlemen of the
+Northwest Company took possession of Astoria, agreeing to pay the
+servants of the Pacific Fur Company (the name which had been chosen by
+Mr. Astor), the arrears of their wages, to be deducted from the price of
+the goods which we delivered, to supply them with provisions, and give a
+free passage to those who wished to return to Canada over land. The
+American colors were hauled down from the factory, and the British run
+up, to the no small chagrin and mortification of those who were American
+citizens.
+
+It was thus, that after having passed the seas, and suffered all sorts
+of fatigues and privations, I lost in a moment all my hopes of fortune.
+I could not help remarking that we had no right to expect such
+treatment on the part of the British government, after the assurances we
+had received from Mr. Jackson, his majesty's _chargé d'affaires_
+previously to our departure from New York. But as I have just intimated,
+the agents of the Northwest Company had exaggerated the importance of
+the factory in the eyes of the British ministry; for if the latter had
+known what it really was--a mere trading-post--and that nothing but the
+rivalry of the fur-traders of the Northwest Company was interested in
+its destruction, they would never have taken umbrage at it, or at least
+would never have sent a maritime expedition to destroy it. The sequel
+will show that I was not mistaken in this opinion.
+
+The greater part of the servants of the Pacific Fur Company entered the
+service of the Company of the Northwest: the rest preferred to return to
+their country, and I was of the number of these last. Nevertheless, Mr.
+M'Tavish, after many ineffectual attempts to persuade me to remain with
+them, having intimated that the establishment could not dispense with
+my services, as I was the only person who could assist them in their
+trade, especially for provisions, of which they would soon be in the
+greatest need, I agreed with them (without however relinquishing my
+previous engagement with Mr. Astor's agents) for five months, that is to
+say, till the departure of the expedition which was to ascend the
+Columbia in the spring, and reach Canada by way of the Rocky Mountains
+and the rivers of the interior. Messrs. John Stuart and M'Kenzie set off
+about the end of this month, for the interior, in order that the latter
+might make over to the former the posts established on the Spokan and
+Okenakan.
+
+On the 15th of November, Messrs. Alexander Stuart and Alexander Henry,
+both partners of the N.W. Company, arrived at the factory, in a couple
+of bark canoes manned by sixteen _voyageurs_. They had set out from
+_Fort William_, on Lake Superior, in the month of July. They brought us
+Canadian papers, by which we learned that the British arms so far had
+been in the ascendant. They confirmed also the news that an English
+frigate was coming to take possession of our quondam establishment; they
+were even surprised not to see the _Isaac Todd_ lying in the road.
+
+On the morning of the 30th, we saw a large vessel standing in under
+_Cape Disappointment_ (which proved in this instance to deserve its
+name); and soon after that vessel came to anchor in _Baker's bay_. Not
+knowing whether it was a friendly or a hostile sail, we thought it
+prudent to send on board Mr. M'Dougal in a canoe, manned by such of the
+men as had been previously in the service of the Pacific Fur Company,
+with injunctions to declare themselves Americans, if the vessel was
+American, and Englishmen in the contrary case. While this party was on
+its way, Mr. M'Tavish caused all the furs which were marked with the
+initials of the N.W. Company to be placed on board the two barges at the
+Fort, and sent them up the river above Tongue Point, where they were to
+wait for a concerted signal, that was to inform them whether the
+new-comers were friends or foes. Toward midnight, Mr. Halsey, who had
+accompanied Mr. M'Dougal to the vessel, returned to the Fort, and
+announced to us that she was the British sloop-of-war _Raccoon_, of 26
+guns, commanded by Captain Black, with a complement of 120 men, fore and
+aft. Mr. John M'Donald, a partner of the N.W. Company, was a passenger
+on the Raccoon, with five _voyageurs_, destined for the Company's
+service. He had left England in the frigate _Phoebe_, which had sailed
+in company with the _Isaac Todd_ as far as Rio Janeiro; but there
+falling in with the British squadron, the admiral changed the
+destination of the frigate, despatching the sloops-of-war _Raccoon_ and
+_Cherub_ to convoy the Isaac Todd, and sent the Phoebe to search for the
+American commodore Porter, who was then on the Pacific, capturing all
+the British whalers and other trading vessels he met with. These four
+vessels then sailed in company as far as Cape Horn, they parted, after
+agreeing on the island of _Juan Fernandez_ as a _rendezvous_. The three
+ships-of-war met, in fact, at that island; but after having a long time
+waited in vain for the _Isaac Todd_, Commodore Hillier (Hillyer?) who
+commanded this little squadron, hearing of the injury inflicted by
+Commodore Porter, on the British commerce, and especially on the whalers
+who frequent these seas, resolved to go in quest of him in order to give
+him combat; and retaining the _Cherub_ to assist him, detailed the
+Raccoon to go and destroy the American establishment on the River
+Columbia, being assured by Mr. M'Donald that a single sloop-of-war would
+be sufficient for that service.
+
+Mr. M'Donald had consequently embarked, with his people, on board the
+Raccoon. This gentleman informed us that they had experienced frightful
+weather in doubling the Cape, and that he entertained serious
+apprehensions for the safety of the Isaac Todd, but that if she was
+safe, we might expect her to arrive in the river in two or three weeks.
+The signal gun agreed upon, having been fired, for the return of the
+barges, Mr. M'Tavish came back to the Port with the furs, and was
+overjoyed to learn the arrival of Mr. M'Donald.
+
+On the 1st of December the Raccoon's gig came up to the fort, bringing
+Mr. M'Donald (surnamed _Bras Croche_, or crooked arm), and the first
+lieutenant, Mr. Sheriff. Both these gentlemen were convalescent from the
+effects, of an accident which had happened to them in the passage
+between Juan Fernandez and the mouth of the Columbia. The captain
+wishing to clean the guns, ordered them to be scaled, that is, fired
+off: during this exercise one of the guns hung fire; the sparks fell
+into a cartridge tub, and setting fire to the combustibles, communicated
+also to some priming horns suspended above; an explosion followed, which
+reached some twenty persons; eight were killed on the spot, the rest
+were severely burnt; Messrs. M'Donald and Sheriff had suffered a great
+deal; it was with difficulty that their clothes had been removed; and
+when the lieutenant came ashore, he had not recovered the use of his
+hands. Among the killed was an American named _Flatt_, who was in the
+service of the Northwest Company and whose loss these gentlemen appeared
+exceedingly to regret.
+
+As there were goods destined for the Company on board the Raccoon, the
+schooner _Dolly_ was sent to Baker's bay to bring them up: but the
+weather was so bad, and the wind so violent that she did not return till
+the 12th, bringing up, together with the goods, Captain Black, a
+lieutenant of marines, four soldiers and as many sailors. We entertained
+our guests as splendidly as it lay in our power to do. After dinner, the
+captain caused firearms to be given to the servants of the Company, and
+we all marched under arms to the square or platform, where a flag-staff
+had been erected. There the captain took a British Union Jack, which he
+had brought on shore for the occasion, and caused it to be run up to the
+top of the staff; then, taking a bottle of Madeira wine, he broke it on
+the flag-staff, declaring in a loud voice, that he took possession of
+the establishment and of the country in the name of His Britannic
+Majesty; and changed the name of Astoria to _Fort George_. Some few
+Indian chiefs had been got together to witness this ceremony, and I
+explained to them in their own language what it signified. Three rounds
+of artillery and musketry were fired, and the health of the king was
+drunk by the parties interested, according to the usage on like
+occasions.
+
+The sloop being detained by contrary winds, the captain caused an exact
+survey to be made of the entrance of the river, as well as of the
+navigable channel between Baker's bay and Fort George. The officers
+visited the fort, turn about, and seemed to me in general very much
+dissatisfied with their fool's errand, as they called it: they had
+expected to find a number of American vessels loaded with rich furs, and
+had calculated in advance their share in the booty of Astoria. They had
+not met a vessel, and their astonishment was at its height when they saw
+that our establishment had been transferred to the Northwest Company,
+and was under the British flag. It will suffice to quote a single
+expression of Captain Black's, in order to show how much they were
+deceived in their expectations. The Captain landed after dark; when we
+showed him the next morning the palisades and log bastions of the
+factory, he inquired if there was not another fort; on being assured
+that there was no other, he cried out, with an air of the greatest
+astonishment:--"What! is this the fort which was represented to me as so
+formidable! Good God! I could batter it down in two hours with a
+four-pounder!"
+
+There were on board the Raccoon two young men from Canada, who had been
+impressed at Quebec, when that vessel was there some years before her
+voyage to the Columbia: one of them was named _Parent_, a blacksmith,
+and was of Quebec: the other was from Upper Canada, and was named
+M'Donald. These young persons signified to us that they would be glad to
+remain at Fort George: and as there was among our men some who would
+gladly have shipped, we proposed to the captain an exchange, but he
+would not consent to it. John Little, a boat-builder from New York, who
+had been on the sick list a long time, was sent on board and placed
+under the care of the sloop's surgeon, Mr. O'Brien; the captain engaging
+to land him at the Sandwich Islands. P.D. Jeremie also shipped himself
+as under clerk. The vessel hoisted sail, and got out of the river, on
+the 31st of December.
+
+From the account given in this chapter the reader will see with what
+facility the establishment of the Pacific Fur Company could have escaped
+capture by the British force. It was only necessary to get rid of the
+land party of the Northwest Company--who were completely in our
+power--then remove our effects up the river upon some small stream, and
+await the result. The sloop-of-war arrived, it is true; but as, in the
+case I suppose, she would have found nothing, she would have left, after
+setting fire to our deserted houses. None of their boats would have
+dared follow us, even if the Indians had betrayed to them our
+lurking-place. Those at the head of affairs had their own fortunes to
+seek, and thought it more for their interest, doubtless, to act as they
+did, but that will not clear them in the eyes of the world, and the
+charge of treason to Mr. Astor's interests will always be attached to
+their characters.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     Expeditions to the Interior.--Return of Messrs. John Stuart and D.
+     M'Kenzie.--Theft committed by the Natives.--War Party against the
+     Thieves.
+
+
+On the 3d of January, 1814, two canoes laden with merchandise for the
+interior, were despatched under the command of Mr. Alexander Stuart and
+Mr. James Keith, with fifteen men under them. Two of the latter were
+charged with letters for the posts (of the Northwest Company) east of
+the mountains, containing instructions to the persons in superintendence
+there, to have in readiness canoes and the requisite provisions for a
+large party intending to go east the ensuing spring. I took this
+opportunity of advising my friends in Canada of my intention to return
+home that season. It was the third attempt I had made to send news of my
+existence to my relatives and friends: the first two had miscarried and
+this was doomed to meet the same fate.
+
+Messrs. J. Stuart and M'Kenzie, who (as was seen in a previous chapter)
+had been sent to notify the gentlemen in the interior of what had taken
+place at Astoria, and to transfer the wintering posts to the Northwest
+Company, returned to Fort George on the morning of the 6th. They stated
+that they had left Messrs. Clarke and D. Stuart behind, with the loaded
+canoes, and also that the party had been attacked by the natives above
+the falls.
+
+As they were descending the river toward evening, between the first and
+second portages, they had espied a large number of Indians congregated
+at no great distance in the prairie; which gave them some uneasiness. In
+fact, some time after they had encamped, and when all the people (_tout
+le monde_) were asleep, except Mr. Stuart, who was on guard, these
+savages had stealthily approached the camp, and discharged some arrows,
+one of which had penetrated the coverlet of one of the men, who was
+lying near the baggage, and had pierced the cartilage of his ear; the
+pain made him utter a sharp cry, which alarmed the whole camp and threw
+it into an uproar. The natives perceiving it, fled to the woods, howling
+and yelling like so many demons. In the morning our people picked up
+eight arrows round the camp: they could yet hear the savages yell and
+whoop in the woods: but, notwithstanding, the party reached the lower
+end of the portage unmolested.
+
+The audacity which these barbarians had displayed in attacking a party
+of from forty to forty-five persons, made us suppose that they would,
+much more probably, attack the party of Mr. Stuart, which was composed
+of but seventeen men. Consequently, I received orders to get ready
+forthwith a canoe and firearms, in order to proceed to their relief. The
+whole was ready in the short space of two hours, and I embarked
+immediately with a guide and eight men. Our instructions were to use all
+possible diligence to overtake Messrs. Stewart and Keith, and to convey
+them to the upper end of the last portage; or to return with the goods,
+if we met too much resistance on the part of the natives. We travelled,
+then, all that day, and all the night of the 6th, and on the 7th, till
+evening. Finding ourselves then at a little distance from the rapids, I
+came to a halt, to put the firearms in order, and let the men take some
+repose. About midnight I caused them to re-embark, and ordered the men
+to sing as they rowed, that the party whom we wished to overtake might
+hear us as we passed, if perchance they were encamped on some one of the
+islands of which the river is full in this part. In fact, we had hardly
+proceeded five or six miles, when we were hailed by some one apparently
+in the middle of the stream. We stopped rowing, and answered, and were
+soon joined by our people of the expedition, who were all descending the
+river in a canoe. They informed us that they had been attacked the
+evening before, and that Mr. Stuart had been wounded. We turned about,
+and all proceeded in company toward the fort. In the morning, when we
+stopped to breakfast, Mr. Keith gave me the particulars of the affair of
+the day preceding.
+
+Having arrived at the foot of the rapids, they commenced the portage on
+the south bank of the river, which is obstructed with boulders, over
+which it was necessary to pass the effects. After they had hauled over
+the two canoes, and a part of the goods, the natives approached in great
+numbers, trying to carry off something unobserved. Mr. Stuart was at the
+upper end of the portage (the portage being about six hundred yards in
+length), and Mr. Keith accompanied the loaded men. An Indian seized a
+bag containing articles of little value, and fled: Mr. Stuart, who saw
+the act, pursued the thief, and after some resistance on the latter's
+part, succeeded in making him relinquish his booty. Immediately he saw a
+number of Indians armed with bows and arrows; approaching him: one of
+them bent his bow and took aim; Mr. Stuart, on his part, levelled his
+gun at the Indian, warning the latter not to shoot, and at the same
+instant received an arrow, which pierced his left shoulder. He then
+drew the trigger; but as it had rained all day, the gun missed fire, and
+before he could re-prime, another arrow, better aimed than the first,
+struck him in the left side and penetrated between two of his ribs, in
+the region of the heart, and would have proved fatal, no doubt, but for
+a stone-pipe he had fortunately in his side-pocket, and which was broken
+by the arrow; at the same moment his gun was discharged, and the Indian
+fell dead. Several others then rushed forward to avenge the death of
+their compatriot; but two of the men came up with their loads and their
+gun (for these portages were made arms in hand), and seeing what was
+going forward, one of them threw his pack on the ground, fired on one of
+the Indians and brought him down. He got up again, however, and picked
+up his weapons, but the other man ran upon him, wrested from him his
+war-club, and despatched him by repeated blows on the head with it. The
+other savages, seeing the bulk of our people approaching the scene of
+combat, retired and crossed the river. In the meantime, Mr. Stuart
+extracted the arrows from his body, by the aid of one of the men: the
+blood flowed in abundance from the wounds, and he saw that it would be
+impossible for him to pursue his journey; he therefore gave orders for
+the canoes and goods to be carried back to the lower end of the portage.
+Presently they saw a great number of pirogues full of warriors coming
+from the opposite side of the river. Our people then considered that
+they could do nothing better than to get away as fast as possible; they
+contrived to transport over one canoe, on which they all embarked,
+abandoning the other and the goods, to the natives. While the barbarians
+were plundering these effects, more precious in their estimation than
+the apples of gold in the garden of the Hesperides, our party retired
+and got out of sight. The retreat was, notwithstanding, so precipitate,
+that they left behind an Indian from the Lake of the Two Mountains, who
+was in the service of the Company as a hunter. This Indian had persisted
+in concealing himself behind the rocks, meaning, he said, to kill some
+of those thieves, and did not return in time for the embarkation. Mr.
+Keith regretted this brave man's obstinacy, fearing, with good reason,
+that he would be discovered and murdered by the natives. We rowed all
+that day and night, and reached the factory on the 9th, at sunrise. Our
+first care, after having announced the misfortune of our people, was to
+dress the wounds of Mr. Stuart, which had been merely bound with a
+wretched piece of cotton cloth.
+
+The goods which had been abandoned, were of consequence to the Company,
+inasmuch as they could not be replaced. It was dangerous, besides, to
+leave the natives in possession of some fifty guns and a considerable
+quantity of ammunition, which they might use against us.[S] The
+partners, therefore, decided to fit out an expedition immediately to
+chastise the robbers, or at least to endeavor to recover the goods. I
+went, by their order, to find the principal chiefs of the neighboring
+tribes, to explain to them what had taken place, and invite them to
+join us, to which they willingly consented. Then, having got ready six
+canoes, we re-embarked on the 10th, to the number of sixty-two men, all
+armed from head to foot, and provided with a small brass field-piece.
+
+[Footnote S: However, some cases of guns and kegs of powder were thrown
+into the falls, before the party retreated.]
+
+We soon reached the lower end of the first rapid: but the essential
+thing was wanting to our little force; it was without provisions; our
+first care then was to try to procure these. Having arrived opposite a
+village, we perceived on the bank about thirty armed savages, who seemed
+to await us firmly. As it was not our policy to seem bent on
+hostilities, we landed on the opposite bank, and I crossed the river
+with five or six men, to enter into parley with them, and try to obtain
+provisions. I immediately became aware that the village was abandoned,
+the women and children having fled to the woods, taking with them all
+the articles of food. The young men, however, offered us dogs, of which
+we purchased a score. Then we passed to a second village, where they
+were already informed of our coming. Here we bought forty-five dogs and
+a horse. With this stock we formed an encampment on an island called
+_Strawberry island_.
+
+Seeing ourselves now provided with food for several days, we informed
+the natives touching the motives which had brought us, and announced to
+them that we were determined to put them all to death and burn their
+villages, if they did not bring back in two days the effects stolen on
+the 7th. A party was detached to the rapids, where the attack on Mr.
+Stuart had taken place. We found the villages all deserted. Crossing to
+the north bank, we found a few natives, of whom we made inquiries
+respecting the Nipissingue Indian, who had been left behind, but they
+assured us that they had seen nothing of him.[T]
+
+[Footnote T: This Indian returned some time after to the factory, but in
+a pitiable condition. After the departure of the canoe, he had concealed
+himself behind a rock, and so passed the night. At daybreak, fearing to
+be discovered, he gained the woods and directed his steps toward the
+fort, across a mountainous region. He arrived at length at the bank of a
+little stream, which he was at first unable to cross. Hunger, in the
+meantime, began to urge him; he might have appeased it with game, of
+which he saw plenty, but unfortunately he had lost the flint of his gun.
+At last, with a raft of sticks, he crossed the river, and arrived at a
+village, the inhabitants of which disarmed him, and made him prisoner.
+Our people hearing where he was, sent to seek him, and gave some
+blankets for his ransom.]
+
+Not having succeeded in recovering, above the rapids, any part of the
+lost goods, the inhabitants all protesting that it was not they, but the
+villages below, which had perpetrated the robbery, we descended the
+river again, and re-encamped on _Strawberry island_. As the intention of
+the partners was to intimidate the natives, without (if possible)
+shedding blood, we made a display of our numbers, and from time to time
+fired off our little field-piece, to let them see that we could reach
+them from one side of the river to the other. The Indian _Coalpo_ and
+his wife, who had accompanied us, advised us to make prisoner one of the
+chiefs. We succeeded in this design, without incurring any danger.
+Having invited one of the natives to come and smoke with us, he came
+accordingly: a little after, came another; at last, one of the chiefs,
+and he one of the most considered among them, also came. Being notified
+secretly of his character by _Coalpo_, who was concealed in the tent,
+we seized him forthwith, tied him to a stake, and placed a guard over
+him with a naked sword, as if ready to cut his head off on the least
+attempt being made by his people for his liberation. The other Indians
+were then suffered to depart with the news for his tribe, that unless
+the goods were brought to us in twenty-four hours, their chief would be
+put to death. Our stratagem succeeded: soon after we heard wailing and
+lamentation in the village, and they presently brought us part of the
+guns, some brass kettles, and a variety of smaller articles, protesting
+that this was all their share of the plunder. Keeping our chief as a
+hostage, we passed to the other village, and succeeded in recovering the
+rest of the guns, and about a third of the other goods.
+
+Although they had been the aggressors, yet as they had had two men
+killed and we had not lost any on our side, we thought it our duty to
+conform to the usage of the country, and abandon to them the remainder
+of the stolen effects, to cover, according to their expression, the
+bodies of their two slain compatriots. Besides, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, and it would not have been easy to get at
+our enemies to punish them, if they had taken refuge in the woods,
+according to their custom when they feel themselves the weaker party. So
+we released our prisoner, and gave him a flag, telling him that when he
+presented it unfurled, we should regard it as a sign of peace and
+friendship: but if, when we were passing the portage, any one of the
+natives should have the misfortune to come near the baggage, we would
+kill him on the spot. We re-embarked on the 19th, and on the 22d reached
+the fort, where we made a report of our martial expedition. We found Mr.
+Stuart very ill of his wounds, especially of the one in the side, which
+was so much swelled that we had every reason to think the arrow had been
+poisoned.
+
+If we did not do the savages as much harm as we might have done, it was
+not from timidity but from humanity, and in order not to shed human
+blood uselessly. For after all, what good would it have done us to have
+slaughtered some of these barbarians, whose crime was not the effect of
+depravity and wickedness, but of an ardent and irresistible desire to
+ameliorate their condition? It must be allowed also that the interest,
+well-understood, of the partners of the Northwest Company, was opposed
+to too strongly marked acts of hostility on their part: it behooved them
+exceedingly not to make irreconciliable enemies of the populations
+neighboring on the portages of the Columbia, which they would so often
+be obliged to pass and repass in future. It is also probable that the
+other natives on the banks, as well as of the river as of the sea, would
+not have seen with indifference, their countrymen too signally or too
+rigorously punished by strangers; and that they would have made common
+cause with the former to resist the latter, and perhaps even to drive
+them from the country.
+
+I must not omit to state that all the firearms surrendered by the
+Indians on this occasion, were found loaded with ball, and primed, with
+a little piece of cotton laid over the priming to keep the powder dry.
+This shows how soon they would acquire the use of guns, and how careful
+traders should be in intercourse with strange Indians, not to teach them
+their use.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     Description of Tongue Point.--A Trip to the _Willamet_.--Arrival of
+     W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.--Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+     Lark.--Preparations for crossing the Continent.
+
+
+The new proprietors of our establishment, being dissatisfied with the
+site we had chosen, came to the determination to change it; after
+surveying both sides of the river, they found no better place than the
+head-land which we had named Tongue point. This point, or to speak more
+accurately, perhaps, this cape, extends about a quarter of a mile into
+the river, being connected with the main-land by a low, narrow neck,
+over which the Indians, in stormy weather, haul their canoes in passing
+up and down the river; and terminating in an almost perpendicular rock,
+of about 250 or 300 feet elevation. This bold summit was covered with a
+dense forest of pine trees; the ascent from the lower neck was gradual
+and easy; it abounded in springs of the finest water; on either side it
+had a cove to shelter the boats necessary for a trading establishment.
+This peninsula had truly the appearance of a huge tongue. Astoria had
+been built nearer the ocean, but the advantages offered by Tongue point
+more than compensated for its greater distance. Its soil, in the rainy
+season, could be drained with little or no trouble; it was a better
+position to guard against attacks on the part of the natives, and less
+exposed to that of civilized enemies by sea or land in time of war.
+
+All the hands who had returned from the interior, added to those who
+were already at the Fort, consumed, in an incredibly short space of time
+the small stock of provisions which had been conveyed by the Pacific Fur
+Company to the Company of the Northwest. It became a matter of
+necessity, therefore, to seek some spot where a part, at least, could be
+sent to subsist. With these views I left the fort on the 7th February
+with a number of men, belonging to the old concern, and who had refused
+to enter the service of the new one, to proceed to the establishment on
+the _Willamet_ river, under the charge of Mr. Alexander Henry, who had
+with him a number of first-rate hunters. Leaving the Columbia to ascend
+the _Willamet_, I found the banks on either side of that stream well
+wooded, but low and swampy, until I reached the first falls; having
+passed which, by making a portage, I commenced ascending a clear but
+moderately deep channel, against a swift current. The banks on either
+side were bordered with forest-trees, but behind that narrow belt,
+diversified with prairie, the landscape was magnificent; the hills were
+of moderate elevation, and rising in an amphitheatre. Deer and elk are
+found here in great abundance; and the post in charge of Mr. Henry had
+been established with a view of keeping constantly there a number of
+hunters to prepare dried venison for the use of the factory. On our
+arrival at the Columbia, considering the latitude, we had expected
+severe winter weather, such as is experienced in the same latitudes
+east; but we were soon undeceived; the mildness of the climate never
+permitted us to transport fresh provisions from the Willamet to Astoria.
+We had not a particle of salt; and the attempts we made to smoke or dry
+the venison proved abortive.
+
+Having left the men under my charge with Mr. Henry, I took leave of that
+gentleman, and returned. At Oak point I found Messrs. Keith and Pillet
+encamped, to pass there the season of sturgeon-fishing. They informed me
+that I was to stay with them.
+
+Accordingly I remained at Oak point the rest of the winter, occupied in
+trading with the Indians spread all along the river for some 30 or 40
+miles above, in order to supply the factory with provisions. I used to
+take a boat with four or five men, visit every fishing station, trade
+for as much fish as would load the boat, and send her down to the fort.
+The surplus fish traded in the interval between the departure and return
+of the boat, was cut up, salted and barrelled for future use. The salt
+had been recently obtained from a quarter to be presently mentioned.
+
+About the middle of March Messrs. Keith and Pillet both left me and
+returned to the fort. Being now alone, I began seriously to reflect on
+my position, and it was in this interval that I positively decided to
+return to Canada. I made inquiries of the men sent up with the boats for
+fish, concerning the preparations for departure, but whether they had
+been enjoined secrecy, or were unwilling to communicate, I could learn
+nothing of what was doing below.
+
+At last I heard that on the 28th February a sail had appeared at the
+mouth of the river. The gentlemen of the N.W. Company at first flattered
+themselves that it was the vessel they had so long expected. They were
+soon undeceived by a letter from Mr. Hunt, which was brought to the fort
+by the Indians of _Baker's bay_. That gentleman had purchased at the
+Marquesas islands a brig called _The Pedlar_: it was on that vessel that
+he arrived, having for pilot Captain Northrop, formerly commander of
+the ship _Lark_. The latter vessel had been outfitted by Mr. Astor, and
+despatched from New York, in spite of the blockading squadron, with
+supplies for the _ci-devant_ Pacific Fur Company; but unhappily she had
+been assailed by a furious tempest and capsized in lat. 16° N., and
+three or four hundred miles from the Sandwich Islands. The mate who was
+sick, was drowned in the cabin, and four of the crew perished at the
+same time. The captain had the masts and rigging cut away, which caused
+the vessel to right again, though full of water. One of the hands dived
+down to the sail-maker's locker, and got out a small sail, which they
+attached to the bowsprit. He dived a second time, and brought up a box
+containing a dozen bottles of wine. For thirteen days they had no other
+sustenance but the flesh of a small shark, which they had the good
+fortune to take, and which they ate raw, and for drink, a gill of the
+wine each man _per diem_. At last the trade winds carried them upon the
+island of _Tahouraka_, where the vessel went to pieces on the reef. The
+islanders saved the crew, and seized all the goods which floated on the
+water. Mr. Hunt was then at _Wahoo_, and learned through some islanders
+from _Morotoi_, that some Americans had been wrecked on the isle of
+_Tahouraka_. He went immediately to take them off, and gave the pilotage
+of his own vessel to Captain Northrop.
+
+It may be imagined what was the surprise of Mr. Hunt when he saw Astoria
+under the British flag, and passed into stranger hands. But the
+misfortune was beyond remedy, and he was obliged to content himself with
+taking on board all the Americans who were at the establishment, and who
+had not entered the service of the Company of the Northwest. Messrs.
+Halsey, Seton, and Farnham were among those who embarked. I shall have
+occasion to inform the reader of the part each of them played, and how
+they reached their homes.
+
+When I heard that Mr. Hunt was in the river, and knowing that the
+overland expedition was to set out early in April, I raised camp at Oak
+point, and reached the fort on the 2d of that month. But the brig
+_Pedlar_ had that very day got outside the river, after several
+fruitless attempts, in one of which she narrowly missed being lost on
+the bar.
+
+I would gladly have gone in her, had I but arrived a day sooner. I
+found, however, all things prepared for the departure of the canoes,
+which was to take place on the 4th. I got ready the few articles I
+possessed, and in spite of the very advantageous offers of the gentlemen
+of the N.W. Company, and their reiterated persuasions, aided by the
+crafty M'Dougal, to induce me to remain, at least one year more, I
+persisted in my resolution to leave the country. The journey I was about
+to undertake was a long one: it would be accompanied with great fatigues
+and many privations, and even by some dangers; but I was used to
+privations and fatigues; I had braved dangers of more than one sort; and
+even had it been otherwise, the ardent desire of revisiting my country,
+my relatives, and my friends, the hope of finding myself, in a few
+months, in their midst, would have made me overlook every other
+consideration.
+
+I am about, then, to quit the banks of the river Columbia, and conduct
+the reader through the mountain passes, over the plains, the forests,
+and the lakes of our continent: but I ought first to give him at least
+an idea of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as of the
+principal productions of the country that I now quit, after a sojourn of
+three years. This is what I shall try to do in the following
+chapters.[U]
+
+[Footnote U: Some of my readers would, no doubt, desire some scientific
+details on the botany and natural history of this country. That is, in
+fact, what they ought to expect from a man who had travelled for his
+pleasure, or to make discoveries: but the object of my travels was not
+of this description; my occupations had no relation with science; and,
+as I have said in my preface, I was not, and am not now, either a
+naturalist or a botanist.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+     Situation of the Columbia River.--Qualities of its Soil.--Climate,
+     &c.--Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.
+
+
+The mouth of the Columbia river is situated in 46° 19' north latitude,
+and 125° or 126° of longitude west of the meridian of Greenwich. The
+highest tides are very little over nine or ten feet, at its entrance,
+and are felt up stream for a distance of twenty-five or thirty leagues.
+
+During the three years I spent there, the cold never was much below the
+freezing point; and I do not think the heat ever exceeded 76°. Westerly
+winds prevail from the early part of spring, and during a part of the
+summer; that wind generally springs up with the flood tide, and tempers
+the heat of the day. The northwest wind prevails during the latter part
+of summer and commencement of autumn. This last is succeeded by a
+southeast wind, which blows almost without intermission from the
+beginning of October to the end of December, or commencement of January.
+This interval is the rainy season, the most disagreeable of the year.
+Fogs (so thick that sometimes for days no object is discernible for five
+or six hundred yards from the beach), are also very prevalent.
+
+The surface of the soil consists (in the valleys) of a layer of black
+vegetable mould, about five or six inches thick at most; under this
+layer is found another of gray and loose, but extremely cold earth;
+below which is a bed of coarse sand and gravel, and next to that pebble
+or hard rock. On the more elevated parts, the same black vegetable mould
+is found, but much thinner, and under it is the trap rock. We found
+along the seashore, south of Point Adams, a bank of earth white as
+chalk, which we used for white-washing our walls. The natives also
+brought us several specimens of blue, red and yellow earth or clay,
+which they said was to be found at a great distance south; and also a
+sort of shining earth, resembling lead ore.[V] We found no limestone,
+although we burnt several kilns, but never could get one ounce of lime.
+
+[Footnote V: Plumbago.]
+
+We had brought with us from New York a variety of garden seeds, which
+were put in the ground in the month of May, 1811, on a rich piece of
+land laid out for the purpose on a sloping ground in front of our
+establishment. The garden had a fine appearance in the month of August;
+but although the plants were left in the ground until December, not one
+of them came to maturity, with the exception of the radishes, the
+turnips, and the potatoes. The turnips grew to a prodigious size; one of
+the largest we had the curiosity to weigh and measure; its circumference
+was thirty-three inches, its weight fifteen and a half pounds. The
+radishes were in full blossom in the month of December, and were left in
+the ground to perfect the seeds for the ensuing season, but they were
+all destroyed by the ground mice, who hid themselves under the stumps
+which we had not rooted out, and infested our garden. With all the care
+we could bestow on them during the passage from New York, only twelve
+potatoes were saved, and even these so shrivelled up, that we despaired
+of raising any from the few sprouts that still gave signs of life.
+Nevertheless we raised one hundred and ninety potatoes the first season,
+and after sparing a few plants for our inland traders, we planted about
+fifty or sixty hills, which produced five bushels the second year; about
+two of these were planted, and gave us a welcome crop of fifty bushels
+in the year 1813.
+
+It would result from these facts, that the soil on the banks of the
+river, as far as tide water, or for a distance of fifty or sixty miles,
+is very little adapted for agriculture; at all events, vegetation is
+very slow. It may be that the soil is not everywhere so cold as the spot
+we selected for our garden, and some other positions might have given a
+better reward for our labor: this supposition is rendered more than
+probable when we take into consideration the great difference in the
+indigenous vegetables of the country in different localities.
+
+The forest trees most common at the mouth of the river and near our
+establishment, were cedar, hemlock, white and red spruce, and alder.
+There were a few dwarf white and gray ashes; and here and there a soft
+maple. The alder grows also to a very large size; I measured some of
+twelve to fifteen inches diameter; the wood was used by us in
+preference, to make charcoal for the blacksmith's forge. But the largest
+of all the trees that I saw in the country, was a white spruce: this
+tree, which had lost its top branches, and bore evident marks of having
+been struck by lightning, was a mere, straight trunk of about eighty to
+one hundred feet in height; its bark whitened by age, made it very
+conspicuous among the other trees with their brown bark and dark
+foliage, like a huge column of white marble. It stood on the slope of a
+hill immediately in the rear of our palisades. Seven of us placed
+ourselves round its trunk, and we could not embrace it by extending our
+arms and touching merely the tips of our fingers; we measured it
+afterward in a more regular manner, and found it forty-two feet in
+circumference. It kept the same size, or nearly the same, to the very
+top.
+
+We had it in contemplation at one time to construct a circular staircase
+to its summit, and erect a platform thereon for an observatory, but more
+necessary and pressing demands on our time made us abandon the project.
+
+A short distance above Astoria, the oak and ash are plentiful, but
+neither of these is of much value or beauty.
+
+From the middle of June to the middle of October, we had abundance of
+wild fruit; first, strawberries, almost white, small but very sweet;
+then raspberries, both red and orange color. These grow on a bush
+sometimes twelve feet in height: they are not sweet, but of a large
+size.
+
+The months of July and August furnish a small berry of an agreeable,
+slightly acid flavor; this berry grows on a slender bush of some eight
+to nine feet high, with small round leaves; they are in size like a wild
+cherry: some are blue, while others are of a cherry red: the last being
+smaller; they have no pits, or stones in them, but seeds, such as are to
+be seen in currants.
+
+I noticed in the month of August another berry growing in bunches or
+grapes like the currant, on a bush very similar to the currant bush: the
+leaves of this shrub resemble those of the laurel: they are very thick
+and always green. The fruit is oblong, and disposed in two rows on the
+stem: the extremity of the berry is open, having a little speck or tuft
+like that of an apple. It is not of a particularly fine flavor, but it
+is wholesome, and one may eat a quantity of it, without inconvenience.
+The natives make great use of it; they prepare it for the winter by
+bruising and drying it; after which it is moulded into cakes according
+to fancy, and laid up for use. There is also a great abundance of
+cranberries, which proved very useful as an antiscorbutic.
+
+We found also the whortleberry, chokecherries, gooseberries, and black
+currants with wild crab-apples: these last grow in clusters, are of
+small size and very tart. On the upper part of the river are found
+blackberries, hazel-nuts, acorns, &c. The country also possesses a great
+variety of nutritive roots: the natives make great use of those which
+have the virtue of curing or preventing the scurvy. We ate freely of
+them with the same intention, and with the same success. One of these
+roots, which much resembles a small onion, serves them, in some sort, in
+place of cheese. Having gathered a sufficient quantity, they bake them
+with red-hot stones, until the steam ceases to ooze from the layer of
+grass and earth with which the roots are covered; then they pound them
+into a paste, and make the paste into loaves, of five or six pounds
+weight: the taste is not unlike liquorice, but not of so sickly a
+sweetness. When we made our first voyage up the river the natives gave
+us square biscuits, very well worked, and printed with different
+figures. These are made of a white root, pounded, reduced to paste, and
+dried in the sun. They call it _Chapaleel_: it is not very palatable;
+nor very nutritive.
+
+But the principal food of the natives of the Columbia is fish. The
+salmon-fishery begins in July: that fish is here of an exquisite flavor,
+but it is extremely fat and oily; which renders it unwholesome for those
+who are not accustomed to it, and who eat too great a quantity: thus
+several of our people were attacked with diarrhoea in a few days after
+we began to make this fish our ordinary sustenance; but they found a
+remedy in the raspberries of the country which have an astringent
+property.
+
+The months of August and September furnish excellent sturgeon. This fish
+varies exceedingly in size; I have seen some eleven feet long; and we
+took one that weighed, after the removal of the eggs and intestines,
+three hundred and ninety pounds. We took out nine gallons of roe. The
+sturgeon does not enter the river in so great quantities as the salmon.
+
+In October and November we had salmon too, but of a quite different
+species--lean, dry and insipid. It differs from the other sort in form
+also; having very long teeth, and a hooked nose like the beak of a
+parrot. Our men termed it in derision "seven bark salmon," because it
+had almost no nutritive substance.
+
+February brings a small fish about the size of a sardine. It has an
+exquisite flavor, and is taken in immense quantities, by means of a
+scoop net, which the Indians, seated in canoes, plunge into the schools:
+but the season is short, not even lasting two weeks.
+
+The principal quadrupeds of the country are the elk, the black and white
+tailed deer; four species of bear, distinguished chiefly by the color of
+the fur or _poil_, to wit, the black, brown, white and grisly bear; the
+grisly bear is extremely ferocious; the white is found on the seashore
+toward the north; the wolf, the panther, the catamount, the lynx, the
+raccoon, the ground hog, opossum, mink, fisher, beaver, and the land and
+sea otter.[W] The sea otter has the handsomest fur that is known; the
+skin surpasses that of the land variety in size and in the beauty of the
+_poil_; the most esteemed color is the silver gray, which is highly
+prized in the Indies, and commands a great price.
+
+[Footnote W: Horses are abundant up the river; but they are not
+indigenous to the country. They will be spoken of in a future chapter.]
+
+The most remarkable birds are the eagle, the turkey-buzzard, the hawk,
+pelican, heron, gull, cormorant, crane, swan, and a great variety of
+wild ducks and geese. The pigeon, woodcock, and pheasant, are found in
+the forests as with us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+     Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River
+     Columbia.
+
+
+The natives inhabiting on the Columbia, from the mouth of that river to
+the falls, that is to say, on a space extending about 250 miles from
+east to west, are, generally speaking, of low stature, few of them
+passing five feet six inches, and many not even five feet. They pluck
+out the beard, in the manner of the other Indians of North America; but
+a few of the old men only suffer a tuft to grow upon their chins. On
+arriving among them we were exceedingly surprised to see that they had
+almost all flattened heads. This configuration is not a natural
+deformity, but an effect of art, caused by compression of the skull in
+infancy. It shocks strangers extremely, especially at first sight;
+nevertheless, among these barbarians it is an indispensable ornament:
+and when we signified to them how much this mode of flattening the
+forehead appeared to us to violate nature and good taste, they answered
+that it was only slaves who had not their heads flattened. The slaves,
+in fact, have the usual rounded head, and they are not permitted to
+flatten the foreheads of their children, destined to bear the chains of
+their sires. The natives of the Columbia procure these slaves from the
+neighboring tribes, and from the interior, in exchange for beads and
+furs. They treat them with humanity while their services are useful, but
+as soon as they become incapable of labor, neglect them and suffer them
+to perish of want. When dead, they throw their bodies, without ceremony,
+under the stump of an old decayed tree, or drag them to the woods to be
+devoured by the wolves and vultures.
+
+The Indians of the Columbia are of a light copper color, active in body,
+and, above all, excellent swimmers. They are addicted to theft, or
+rather, they make no scruple of laying hands on whatever suits them in
+the property of strangers, whenever they can find an opportunity. The
+goods and effects of European manufacture are so precious in the eyes of
+these barbarians, that they rarely resist the temptation of stealing
+them.
+
+These savages are not addicted to intemperance, unlike, in that respect
+the other American Indians, if we must not also except the Patagonians,
+who, like the Flatheads, regard intoxicating drinks as poisons, and
+drunkenness as disgraceful. I will relate a fact in point: one of the
+sons of the chief Comcomly being at the establishment one day, some of
+the gentlemen amused themselves with making him drink wine, and he was
+very soon drunk. He was sick in consequence, and remained in a state of
+stupor for two days. The old chief came to reproach us, saying that we
+had degraded his son by exposing him to the ridicule of the slaves, and
+besought us not to induce him to take strong liquors in future.
+
+The men go entirely naked, not concealing any part of their bodies. Only
+in winter they throw over the shoulders a panther's skin, or else a
+sort of mantle made of the skins of wood-rats sewed together. In rainy
+weather I have seen them wear a mantle of rush mats, like a Roman toga,
+or the vestment which a priest wears in celebrating mass; thus equipped,
+and furnished with a conical hat made from fibrous roots and
+impermeable, they may call themselves rain-proof. The women, in addition
+to the mantle of skins, wear a petticoat made of the cedar bark, which
+they attach round the girdle, and which reaches to the middle of the
+thigh. It is a little longer behind than before, and is fabricated in
+the following manner: They strip off the fine bark of the cedar, soak it
+as one soaks hemp, and when it is drawn out into fibres, work it into a
+fringe; then with a strong cord they bind the fringes together. With so
+poor a vestment they contrive to satisfy the requirements of modesty;
+when they stand it drapes them fairly enough; and when they squat down
+in their manner, it falls between their legs, leaving nothing exposed
+but the bare knees and thighs. Some of the younger women twist the
+fibres of bark into small cords, knotted at the ends, and so form the
+petticoat, disposed in a fringe, like the first, but more easily kept
+clean and of better appearance.
+
+Cleanliness is not a virtue among these females, who, in that respect,
+resemble the other Indian women of the continent. They anoint the body
+and dress the hair with fish oil, which does not diffuse an agreeable
+perfume. Their hair (which both sexes wear long) is jet black; it is
+badly combed, but parted in the middle, as is the custom of the sex
+everywhere, and kept shining by the fish-oil before-mentioned.
+Sometimes, in imitation of the men, they paint the whole body with a red
+earth mixed with fish-oil. Their ornaments consist of bracelets of
+brass, which they wear indifferently on the wrists and ankles; of
+strings of beads of different colors (they give a preference to the
+blue), and displayed in great profusion around the neck, and on the arms
+and legs; and of white shells, called _Haiqua_, which are their ordinary
+circulating medium. These shells are found beyond the straits of _Juan
+de Fuca_, and are from one to four inches long, and about half an inch
+in diameter: they are a little curved and naturally perforated: the
+longest are most valued. The price of all commodities is reckoned in
+these shells; a fathom string of the largest of them is worth about ten
+beaver-skins.
+
+Although a little less slaves than the greater part of the Indian women
+elsewhere, the women on the Columbia are, nevertheless, charged with the
+most painful labors; they fetch water and wood, and carry the goods in
+their frequent changes of residence; they clean the fish and cut it up
+for drying; they prepare the food and cook the fruits in their season.
+Among their principal occupations is that of making rush mats, baskets
+for gathering roots, and hats very ingeniously wrought. As they want
+little clothing, they do not sew much, and the men have the needle in
+hand oftener than they.
+
+The men are not lazy, especially during the fishing season. Not being
+hunters, and eating, consequently, little flesh-meat (although they are
+fond of it), fish makes, as I have observed, their principal diet. They
+profit, therefore, by the season when it is to be had, by taking as much
+as they can; knowing that the intervals will be periods of famine and
+abstinence, unless they provide sufficiently beforehand.
+
+Their canoes are all made of cedar, and of a single trunk: we saw some
+which were five feet wide at midships, and thirty feet in length; these
+are the largest, and will carry from 25 to 30 men; the smallest will
+carry but two or three. The bows terminate in a very elongated point,
+running out four or five feet from the water line. It constitutes a
+separate piece, very ingeniously attached, and serves to break the surf
+in landing, or the wave on a rough sea. In landing they put the canoe
+round, so as to strike the beach stern on. Their oars or paddles are
+made of ash, and are about five feet long, with a broad blade, in the
+shape of an inverted crescent, and a cross at the top, like the handle
+of a crutch. The object of the crescent shape of the blade is to be able
+to draw it, edge-wise, through the water without making any noise, when
+they hunt the sea-otter, an animal which can only be caught when it is
+lying asleep on the rocks, and which has the sense of hearing very
+acute. All their canoes are painted red, and fancifully decorated.
+
+Their houses, constructed of cedar, are remarkable for their form and
+size: some of them are one hundred feet in length by thirty or forty
+feet in width. They are constructed as follows: An oblong square of the
+intended size of the building is dug out to the depth of two or three
+feet; a double row of cedar posts is driven into the earth about ten
+feet apart; between these the planks are laid, overlapping each other to
+the requisite height. The roof is formed by a ridge-pole laid on taller
+posts, notched to receive it, and is constructed with rafters and planks
+laid clapboard-wise, and secured by cords for want of nails. When the
+house is designed for several families, there is a door for each, and a
+separate fireplace; the smoke escapes through an aperture formed by
+removing one of the boards of the roof. The door is low, of an oval
+shape, and is provided with a ladder, cut out of a log, to descend into
+the lodge. The entrance is generally effected stern-foremost.
+
+The kitchen utensils consist of plates of ash-wood, bowls of fibrous
+roots, and a wooden kettle: with these they succeed in cooking their
+fish and meat in less time than we take with the help of pots and
+stewpans. See how they do it! Having heated a number of stones red-hot,
+they plunge them, one by one, in the vessel which is to contain the food
+to be prepared; as soon as the water boils, they put in the fish or
+meat, with some more heated stones on top, and cover up the whole with
+small rush mats, to retain the steam. In an incredibly short space of
+time the article is taken out and placed on a wooden platter, perfectly
+done and very palatable. The broth is taken out also, with a ladle of
+wood or horn.
+
+It will be asked, no doubt, what instruments these savages use in the
+construction of their canoes and their houses. To cause their patience
+and industry to be admired as much as they deserve, it will be
+sufficient for me to mention that we did not find among them a single
+hatchet: their only tools consisted of an inch or half-inch chisel,
+usually made of an old file, and of a mallet, which was nothing but an
+oblong stone. With these wretched implements, and wedges made of hemlock
+knots, steeped in oil and hardened by the fire, they would undertake to
+cut down the largest cedars of the forest, to dig them out and fashion
+them into canoes, to split them, and get out the boards wherewith to
+build their houses. Such achievements with such means, are a marvel of
+ingenuity and patience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+     Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.--Their Wars.--Their
+     Marriages.--Medicine Men.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Religious
+     Notions.--Language.
+
+
+The politics of the natives of the Columbia are a simple affair: each
+village has its chief, but that chief does not seem to exercise a great
+authority over his fellow-citizens. Nevertheless, at his death, they pay
+him great honors: they use a kind of mourning, which consists in
+painting the face with black, in lieu of gay colors; they chant his
+funeral song or oration for a whole month. The chiefs are considered in
+proportion to their riches: such a chief has a great many wives, slaves,
+and strings of beads--he is accounted a great chief. These barbarians
+approach in that respect to certain civilized nations, among whom the
+worth of a man is estimated by the quantity of gold he possesses.
+
+As all the villages form so many independent sovereignties, differences
+sometimes arise, whether between the chiefs or the tribes. Ordinarily,
+these terminate by compensations equivalent to the injury. But when the
+latter is of a grave character, like a murder (which is rare), or the
+abduction of a woman (which is very common), the parties, having made
+sure of a number of young braves to aid them, prepare for war. Before
+commencing hostilities, however, they give notice of the day when they
+will proceed to attack the hostile village; not following in that
+respect the custom of almost all other American Indians, who are wont to
+burst upon their enemy unawares, and to massacre or carry off men,
+women, and children; these people, on the contrary, embark in their
+canoes, which on these occasions are paddled by the women, repair to the
+hostile village, enter into parley, and do all they can to terminate the
+affair amicably: sometimes a third party becomes mediator between the
+first two, and of course observes an exact neutrality. If those who seek
+justice do not obtain it to their satisfaction, they retire to some
+distance, and the combat begins, and is continued for some time with
+fury on both sides; but as soon as one or two men are killed, the party
+which has lost these, owns itself beaten and the battle ceases. If it is
+the people of the village attacked who are worsted, the others do not
+retire without receiving presents. When the conflict is postponed till
+the next day (for they never fight but in open daylight, as if to render
+nature witness of their exploits), they keep up frightful cries all
+night long, and, when they are sufficiently near to understand each
+other, defy one another by menaces, railleries, and sarcasms, like the
+heroes of Homer and Virgil. The women and children are always removed
+from the village before the action.
+
+Their combats are almost all maritime: for they fight ordinarily in
+their pirogues, which they take care to careen, so as to present the
+broadside to the enemy, and half lying down, avoid the greater part of
+the arrows let fly at them.
+
+But the chief reason of the bloodlessness of their combats is the
+inefficiency of their offensive weapons, and the excellence of their
+defensive armor. Their offensive arms are merely a bow and arrow, and a
+kind of double-edged sabre, about two and a half feet long, and six
+inches wide in the blade: they rarely come to sufficiently close
+quarters to make use of the last. For defensive armor they wear a
+cassock or tunic of elk-skin double, descending to the ankles, with
+holes for the arms. It is impenetrable by their arrows, which can not
+pierce two thicknesses of leather; and as their heads are also covered
+with a sort of helmet, the neck is almost the only part in which they
+can be wounded. They have another kind of corslet, made like the corsets
+of our ladies, of splinters of hard wood interlaced with nettle twine.
+The warrior who wears this cuirass does not use the tunic of elk-skin;
+he is consequently less protected, but a great deal more free; the said
+tunic being very heavy and very stiff.
+
+It is almost useless to observe that, in their military expeditions,
+they have their bodies and faces daubed with different paints, often of
+the most extravagant designs. I remember to have seen a war-chief, with
+one exact half of his face painted white and the other half black.
+
+Their marriages are conducted with a good deal of ceremony. When a young
+man seeks a girl in marriage, his parents make the proposals to those of
+the intended bride, and when it has been agreed upon what presents the
+future bridegroom is to offer to the parents of the bride, all parties
+assemble at the house of the latter, whither the neighbors are invited
+to witness the contract. The presents, which consist of slaves, strings
+of beads, copper bracelets, _haiqua_ shells, &c., are distributed by the
+young man, who, on his part receives as many, and sometimes more,
+according to the means or the munificence of the parents of his
+betrothed. The latter is then led forward by the old matrons and
+presented to the young man, who takes her as his wife, and all retire to
+their quarters.
+
+The men are not very scrupulous in their choice, and take small pains to
+inform themselves what conduct a young girl has observed before her
+nuptials; and it must be owned that few marriages would take place, if
+the youth would only espouse maidens without reproach on the score of
+chastity; for the unmarried girls are by no means scrupulous in that
+particular, and their parents give them, on that head, full liberty. But
+once the marriage is contracted, the spouses observe toward each other
+an inviolable fidelity; adultery is almost unknown among them, and the
+woman who should be guilty of it would be punished with death. At the
+same time, the husband may repudiate his wife, and the latter may then
+unite herself in marriage to another man. Polygamy is permitted, indeed
+is customary; there are some who have as many as four or five wives; and
+although it often happens that the husband loves one better than the
+rest, they never show any jealousy, but live, together in the most
+perfect concord.[X]
+
+[Footnote X: This appears improbable, and is, no doubt, overstated; but
+so far as it is true, only shows the degradation of these women, and the
+absence of moral love on both sides. The indifference to virgin chastity
+described by Mr. F., is a characteristic of barbarous nations in
+general, and is explained by the principle stated in the next note
+below; the savage state being essentially one in which the supernatural
+bond of human fellowship is snapped: it is (as it has been called) the
+state of _nature_, in which continence is practically impossible; and
+what men can not have, that they soon cease to prize. The same utter
+indifference to the past conduct of the girls they marry is mentioned by
+MAYHEW as existing among the costermongers and street population of
+London, whom he well likens to the barbarous tribes lying on the
+outskirts of more ancient nations.--ED.]
+
+There are charlatans everywhere, but they are more numerous among
+savages than anywhere else, because among these ignorant and
+superstitious people the trade is at once more profitable and less
+dangerous. As soon as a native of the Columbia is indisposed, no matter
+what the malady, they send for the medicine man, who treats the patient
+in the absurd manner usually adopted by these impostors, and with such
+violence of manipulation, that often a sick man, whom a timely bleeding
+or purgative would have saved, is carried off by a sudden death.
+
+They deposite their dead in canoes, on rocks sufficiently elevated not
+to be overflowed by the spring freshets. By the side of the dead are
+laid his bow, his arrows, and some of his fishing implements; if it is
+a woman, her beads and bracelets: the wives, the relatives and the
+slaves of the defunct cut their hair in sign of grief, and for several
+days, at the rising and setting of the sun, go to some distance from the
+village to chant a funeral song.
+
+These people have not, properly speaking, a public worship.[Y] I could
+never perceive, during my residence among them, that they worshipped any
+idol. They had, nevertheless, some small sculptured figures; but they
+appeared to hold them in light esteem, offering to barter them for
+trifles.
+
+[Footnote Y: It is Coleridge who observes that _every tribe is
+barbarous_ which has no recognised public worship or cult, and no
+regular priesthood as opposed to self-constituted conjurors. It is, in
+fact, by public worship alone that human society is organized and
+vivified; and it is impossible to maintain such worship without a
+sacerdotal order, however it be constituted. _No culture without a
+cult_, is the result of the study of the races of mankind. Hence those
+who would destroy religion are the enemies of civilization.--ED.]
+
+Having travelled with one of the sons of the chief of the Chinooks
+(Comcomly), an intelligent and communicative young man, I put to him
+several questions touching their religious belief, and the following
+is, in substance, what he told me respecting it: Men, according to their
+ideas, were created by a divinity whom they name _Etalapass_; but they
+were imperfect, having a mouth that was not opened, eyes that were fast
+closed, hands and feet that were not moveable; in a word, they were
+rather statues of flesh, than living men. A second divinity, whom they
+call _Ecannum_, less powerful, but more benign than the former, having
+seen men in their state of imperfection, took a sharp stone and laid
+open their mouths and eyes; he gave agility, also, to their feet, and
+motion to their hands. This compassionate divinity was not content with
+conferring these first benefits; he taught men to make canoes, paddles,
+nets, and, in a word, all the tools and instruments they use. He did
+still more: he threw great rocks into the river, to obstruct the ascent
+of the salmon, in order that they might take as many as they wanted.
+
+The natives of the Columbia further believe, that the men who have been
+good citizens, good fathers, good husbands, and good fishermen, who
+have not committed murder, &c., will be perfectly happy after their
+death, and will go to a country where they will find fish, fruit, &c.,
+in abundance; and that, on the contrary, those who have lived wickedly,
+will inhabit a country of fasting and want, where they will eat nothing
+but bitter roots, and have nothing to drink but salt water.
+
+If these notions in regard to the origin and future destiny of man are
+not exactly conformed to sound reason or to divine revelation, it will
+be allowed that they do not offer the absurdities with which the
+mythologies of many ancient nations abound.[Z] The article which makes
+skill in fishing a virtue worthy of being compensated in the other
+world, does not disfigure the salutary and consoling dogma of the
+immortality of the soul, and that of future rewards and punishments, so
+much as one is at first tempted to think; for if we reflect a little, we
+shall discover that the skilful fisherman, in laboring for himself,
+labors also for society; he is a useful citizen, who contributes, as
+much as lies in his power, to avert from his fellow-men the scourge of
+famine; he is a religious man, who honors the divinity by making use of
+his benefits. Surely a great deal of the theology of a future life
+prevalent among civilized men, does not excel this in profundity.
+
+[Footnote Z: It seems clear that this Indian mythology is a form of the
+primitive tradition obscured by symbol. The creation of man by the
+Supreme Divinity, but in an imperfect state ("his eyes not yet opened"),
+his deliverance from that condition by an inferior but more beneficent
+deity (the Satan of the Bible), and the progress of the emancipated and
+enlightened being, in the arts of industry, are clearly set forth. Thus
+the devil has his cosmogony as well as the Almighty, and his tradition
+in opposition to the divine.--ED.]
+
+It is not to be expected that men perfectly ignorant, like these
+Indians, should be free from superstitions: one of the most ridiculous
+they have, regards the method of preparing and eating fish. In the month
+of July, 1811, the natives brought us at first a very scanty supply of
+the fresh salmon, from the fear that we would cut the fish crosswise
+instead of lengthwise; being persuaded that if we did so, the river
+would be obstructed, and the fishing ruined. Having reproached the chief
+on that account, they brought us a greater quantity, but all cooked, and
+which, not to displease them, it was necessary to eat before sunset.
+Re-assured at last by our solemn promises not to cut the fish crosswise,
+they supplied us abundantly during the remainder of the season.
+
+In spite of the vices that may be laid to the charge of the natives of
+the Columbia, I regard them as nearer to a state of civilization than
+any of the tribes who dwell east of the Rocky mountains. They did not
+appear to me so attached to their customs that they could not easily
+adopt those of civilized nations: they would dress themselves willingly
+in the European mode, if they had the means. To encourage this taste, we
+lent pantaloons to the chiefs who visited us, when they wished to enter
+our houses, never allowing them to do it in a state of nudity. They
+possess, in an eminent degree, the qualities opposed to indolence,
+improvidence, and stupidity: the chiefs, above all, are distinguished
+for their good sense and intelligence. Generally speaking, they have a
+ready intellect and a tenacious memory. Thus old Comcomly recognised the
+mate of the _Albatross_ as having visited the country sixteen years
+before, and recalled to the latter the name of the captain under whom he
+had sailed at that period.
+
+The _Chinook_ language is spoken by all the nations from the mouth of
+the Columbia to the falls. It is hard and difficult to pronounce, for
+strangers; being full of gutturals, like the Gaelic. The combinations
+_thl_, or _tl_, and _lt_, are as frequent in the Chinook as in the
+Mexican.[AA]
+
+[Footnote AA: There can not be a doubt that the existing tribes on the
+N.W. coast, have reached that country from the _South_, and not from the
+North. They are the _debris_ of the civilization of Central America,
+expelled by a defecating process that is going on in all human
+societies, and so have sunk into barbarism.--ED.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+     Departure from Astoria or Fort George.--Accident.--Passage of the
+     Dalles or Narrows.--Great Columbian Desert.--Aspect of the
+     Country.--Wallawalla and Shaptin Rivers.--Rattlesnakes.--Some
+     Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.
+
+
+We quitted Fort George (or Astoria, if you please) on Monday morning,
+the 4th of April, 1814, in ten canoes, five of which were of bark and
+five of cedar wood, carrying each seven men as crew, and two passengers,
+in all ninety persons, and all well armed. Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish, D.
+Stuart, J. Clarke, B. Pillet, W. Wallace, D. M'Gillis, D. M'Kenzie, &c.,
+were of the party. Nothing remarkable occurred to us as far as the first
+falls, which we reached on the 10th. The portage was effected
+immediately, and we encamped on an island for the night. Our numbers
+had caused the greater part of the natives to take to flight, and those
+who remained in the villages showed the most pacific dispositions. They
+sold us four horses and thirty dogs, which were immediately slaughtered
+for food.
+
+We resumed our route on the 11th, at an early hour. The wind was
+favorable, but blew with violence. Toward evening, the canoe in which
+Mr. M'Tavish was, in doubling a point of rock, was run under by its
+press of sail, and sunk. Happily the river was not deep at this place;
+no one was drowned; and we succeeded in saving all the goods. This
+accident compelled us to camp at an early hour.
+
+On the 12th, we arrived at a rapid called the _Dalles_: this is a
+channel cut by nature through the rocks, which are here almost
+perpendicular: the channel is from 150 to 300 feet wide, and about two
+miles long. The whole body of the river rushes through it, with great
+violence, and renders navigation impracticable. The portage occupied us
+till dusk. Although we had not seen a single Indian in the course of the
+day, we kept sentinels on duty all night: for it was here that Messrs.
+Stuart and Reed were attacked by the natives.
+
+On the 13th, we made two more portages, and met Indians, of whom we
+purchased horses and wood. We camped early on a sandy plain, where we
+passed a bad night; the wind, which blew violently, raised clouds of
+sand, which incommoded us greatly, and spoiled every mouthful of food we
+took.
+
+On the 14th and 15th, we passed what are called the Great Plains of the
+Columbia. From the top of the first rapid to this point, the aspect of
+the country becomes more and more _triste_ and disagreeable; one meets
+at first nothing but bare hills, which scarcely offer a few isolated
+pines, at a great distance from each other; after that, the earth,
+stripped of verdure, does not afford you the sight of a single shrub;
+the little grass which grows in that arid soil, appears burnt by the
+rigor of the climate. The natives who frequent the banks of the river,
+for the salmon fishery, have no other wood but that which they take
+floating down. We passed several rapids, and a small stream called
+Utalah, which flows from the southeast.
+
+On the 16th, we found the river narrowed; the banks rose on either side
+in elevations, without, however, offering a single tree. We reached the
+river _Wallawalla_, which empties into the Columbia on the southeast. It
+is narrow at its confluence, and is not navigable for any great
+distance. A range of mountains was visible to the S.E., about fifty or
+sixty miles off. Behind these mountains the country becomes again flat
+and sandy, and is inhabited by a tribe called the _Snakes_. We found on
+the left bank of the _Wallawalla_, an encampment of Indians, consisting
+of about twenty lodges. They sold us six dogs and eight horses, the
+greater part extremely lean. We killed two of the horses immediately: I
+mounted one of the six that remained; Mr. Ross took another; and we
+drove the other four before us. Toward the decline of day we passed the
+river _Lewis_, called, in the language of the country, the _Sha-ap-tin_.
+It comes from the S.E., and is the same that Lewis and Clarke descended
+in 1805. The _Sha-ap-tin_ appeared to me to have little depth, and to be
+about 300 yards wide, at its confluence.
+
+The country through which we were now passing, was a mingling of hills,
+steep rocks, and valleys covered with wormwood; the stems of which shrub
+are nearly six inches thick, and might serve for fuel. We killed six
+rattlesnakes on the 15th, and on the 16th saw a great many more among
+the rocks. These dangerous reptiles appeared to be very numerous in this
+part of the country. The plains are also inhabited by a little
+quadruped, only about eight or nine inches in length, and approaching
+the dog in form. These animals have the hair, or _poil_, of a reddish
+brown, and strong fore-paws, armed with long claws which serve them to
+dig out their holes under the earth. They have a great deal of
+curiosity: as soon as they hear a noise they come out of their holes and
+bark. They are not vicious, but, though easily tamed, can not be
+domesticated.
+
+The natives of the upper Columbia, beginning at the falls, differ
+essentially in language, manners, and habits, from those of whom I have
+spoken in the preceding chapters. They do not dwell in villages, like
+the latter, but are nomads, like the Tartars and the Arabs of the
+desert: their women are more industrious, and the young girls more
+reserved and chaste than those of the populations lower down. They do
+not go naked, but both sexes wear habits made of dressed deer-skin,
+which they take care to rub with chalk, to keep them clean and white.
+They are almost always seen on horseback, and are in general good
+riders; they pursue the deer and penetrate even to Missouri, to kill
+buffalo, the flesh of which they dry, and bring it back on their horses,
+to make their principal food during the winter. These expeditions are
+not free from danger; for they have a great deal to apprehend from the
+_Black-feet_, who are their enemies. As this last tribe is powerful and
+ferocious, the _Snakes_, the _Pierced-noses_ or _Sha-ap-tins_, the
+_Flatheads_, &c., make common cause against them, when the former go to
+hunt east of the mountains. They set out with their families, and the
+cavalcade often numbers two thousand horses. When they have the good
+fortune not to encounter the enemy, they return with the spoils of an
+abundant chase; they load a part of their horses with the hides and
+beef, and return home to pass the winter in peace. Sometimes, on the
+contrary, they are so harassed by the Blackfeet, who surprise them in
+the night and carry off their horses, that they are forced to return
+light-handed, and then they have nothing to eat but roots, all the
+winter.
+
+These Indians are passionately fond of horseraces: by the bets they make
+on these occasions they sometimes lose all that they possess. The women
+ride, as well as the men. For a bridle they use a cord of horse-hair,
+which they attach round the animal's mouth; with that he is easily
+checked, and by laying the hand on his neck, is made to wheel to this
+side or that. The saddle is a cushion of stuffed deer-skin, very
+suitable for the purpose to which it is destined, rarely hurting the
+horse, and not fatiguing the rider so much as our European saddles. The
+stirrups are pieces of hard wood, ingeniously wrought, and of the same
+shape as those which are used in civilized countries. They are covered
+with a piece of deer-skin, which is sewed on wet, and in drying stiffens
+and becomes hard and firm. The saddles for women differ in form, being
+furnished with the antlers of a deer, so as to resemble the high
+pommelled saddle of the Mexican ladies.
+
+They procure their horses from the herds of these animals which are
+found in a wild state in the country extending between the northern
+latitudes and the gulf of Mexico, and which sometimes count a thousand
+or fifteen hundred in a troop. These horses come from New Mexico, and
+are of Spanish race. We even saw some which had been marked with a hot
+iron by Spaniards. Some of our men, who had been at the south, told me
+that they had seen among the Indians, bridles, the bits of which were of
+silver. The form of the saddles used by the females, proves that they
+have taken their pattern from the Spanish ones destined for the same
+use. One of the partners of the N.W. Company (Mr. M'Tavish) assured us
+that he had seen among the _Spokans_, an old woman who told him that she
+had seen men ploughing the earth; she told him that she had also seen
+churches, which she made him understand by imitating the sound of a bell
+and the action of pulling a bell-rope; and further to confirm her
+account, made the sign of the cross. That gentleman concluded that she
+had been made prisoner and sold to the Spaniards on the _Del Norte_; but
+I think it more probable it was nearer, in North California, at the
+mission of _San Carlos_ or _San Francisco_.
+
+As the manner of taking wild horses should not be generally known to my
+readers, I will relate it here in few words. The Indian who wishes to
+capture some horses, mounts one of his fleetest coursers, being armed
+with a long cord of horsehair, one end of which is attached to his
+saddle, and the other is a running noose. Arrived at the herd, he dashes
+into the midst of it, and flinging his cord, or _lasso_, passes it
+dexterously over the head of the animal he selects; then wheeling his
+courser, draws the cord after him; the wild horse, finding itself
+strangling, makes little resistance; the Indian then approaches, ties
+his fore and hind legs together, and leaves him till he has taken in
+this manner as many as he can. He then drives them home before him, and
+breaks them in at leisure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+     Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.--Her Narrative.--Reflections of
+     the Author.--Priest's Rapid.--River Okenakan.--Kettle Falls.--Pine
+     Moss.--Scarcity of Food.--Rivers, Lakes, &c.--Accident.--A
+     Rencontre.--First View of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+On the 17th, the fatigue I had experienced the day before, on horseback,
+obliged me to re-embark in my canoe. About eight o'clock, we passed a
+little river flowing from the N.W. We perceived, soon after, three
+canoes, the persons in which were struggling with their paddles to
+overtake us. As we were still pursuing our way, we heard a child's voice
+cry out in French--"_arrêtez donc, arrêtez donc_"--(stop! stop!). We put
+ashore, and the canoes having joined us, we perceived in one of them the
+wife and children of a man named _Pierre Dorion_, a hunter, who had been
+sent on with a party of eight, under the command of Mr. J. Reed, among
+the _Snakes_, to join there the hunters left by Messrs. Hunt and Crooks,
+near Fort Henry, and to secure horses and provisions for our journey.
+This woman informed us, to our no small dismay, of the tragical fate of
+all those who composed that party. She told us that in the month of
+January, the hunters being dispersed here and there, setting their traps
+for the beaver, Jacob Regner, Gilles Leclerc, and Pierre Dorion, her
+husband, had been attacked by the natives. Leclerc, having been mortally
+wounded, reached her tent or hut, where he expired in a few minutes,
+after having announced to her that her husband had been killed. She
+immediately took two horses that were near the lodge, mounted her two
+boys upon them, and fled in all haste to the wintering house of Mr.
+Reed, which was about five days' march from the spot where her husband
+fell. Her horror and disappointment were extreme, when she found the
+house--a log cabin--deserted, and on drawing nearer, was soon convinced,
+by the traces of blood, that Mr. Reed also had been murdered. No time
+was to be lost in lamentations, and she had immediately fled toward the
+mountains south of the _Wallawalla_, where, being impeded by the depth
+of the snow, she was forced to winter, having killed both the horses to
+subsist herself and her children. But at last, finding herself out of
+provisions, and the snow beginning to melt, she had crossed the
+mountains with her boys, hoping to find some more humane Indians, who
+would let her live among them till the boats from the fort below should
+be ascending the river in the spring, and so reached the banks of the
+Columbia, by the Wallawalla. Here, indeed, the natives had received her
+with much hospitality, and it was the Indians of Wallawalla who brought
+her to us. We made them some presents to repay their care and pains, and
+they returned well satisfied.
+
+The persons who lost their lives in this unfortunate wintering party,
+were Mr. John Reed, (clerk), Jacob Regner, John Hubbough, Pierre Dorion
+(hunters), Gilles Leclerc, François Landry, J.B. Turcotte, André la
+Chapelle and Pierre De Launay, (_voyageurs_).[AB] We had no doubt that
+this massacre was an act of vengeance, on the part of the natives, in
+retaliation for the death of one of their people, whom Mr. John Clark
+had hanged for theft the spring before. This fact, the massacre on the
+Tonquin, the unhappy end of Captain Cook, and many other similar
+examples, prove how carefully the Europeans, who have relations with a
+barbarous people, should abstain from acting in regard to them on the
+footing of too marked an inequality, and especially from punishing their
+offences according to usages and codes, in which there is too often an
+enormous disproportion between the crime and the punishment. If these
+pretended exemplary punishments seem to have a good effect at first
+sight, they almost always produce terrible consequences in the sequel.
+
+[Footnote AB: Turcotte died of _King's Evil_. De Launay was a
+half-breed, of violent temper, who had taken an Indian woman to live
+with him; he left Mr. Reed in the autumn, and was never heard of again.]
+
+On the 18th, we passed _Priest's Rapid_, so named by Mr. Stuart and his
+people, who saw at this spot, in 1811, as they were ascending the
+river, a number of savages, one of whom was performing on the rest
+certain aspersions and other ceremonies, which had the air of being
+coarse imitations of the Catholic worship. For our part, we met here
+some Indians of whom we bought two horses. The banks of the river at
+this place are tolerably high, but the country back of them is flat and
+uninteresting.
+
+On the 20th, we arrived at a place where the bed of the river is
+extremely contracted, and where we were obliged to make a portage.
+Messrs. J. Stuart and Clarke left us here, to proceed on horseback to
+the Spokan trading house, to procure there the provisions which would be
+necessary for us, in order to push on to the mountains.
+
+On the 21st, we lightened of their cargoes, three canoes, in which those
+who were to cross the continent embarked, to get on with greater speed.
+We passed several rapids, and began to see mountains covered with snow.
+
+On the 22d, we began to see some pines on the ridge of the neighboring
+hills; and at evening we encamped under _trees_, a thing which had not
+happened to us since the 12th.
+
+On the 23d, toward 9, A.M., we reached the trading post established by
+D. Stuart, at the mouth of the river _Okenakan_. The spot appeared to us
+charming, in comparison with the country through which we had journeyed
+for twelve days past: the two rivers here meeting, and the immense
+prairies covered with a fine verdure, strike agreeably the eye of the
+observer; but there is not a tree or a shrub to diversify the scene, and
+render it a little less naked and less monotonous. We found here Messrs.
+J. M'Gillivray and Ross, and Mr. O. de Montigny, who had taken service
+with the N.W. Company, and who charged me with a letter for his brother.
+
+Toward midday we re-embarked, to continue our journey. After having
+passed several dangerous rapids without accident, always through a
+country broken by shelving rocks, diversified with hills and verdant
+prairies, we arrived, on the 29th, at the portage of the _Chaudieres_
+or Kettle falls. This is a fall where the water precipitates itself
+over an immense rock of white marble, veined with red and green, that
+traverses the bed of the river from N.W. to S.E. We effected the portage
+immediately, and encamped on the edge of a charming prairie.
+
+We found at this place some Indians who had been fasting, they assured
+us, for several days. They appeared, in fact, reduced to the most
+pitiable state, having nothing left but skin and bones, and scarcely
+able to drag themselves along, so that not without difficulty could they
+even reach the margin of the river, to get a little water to wet their
+parched lips. It is a thing that often happens to these poor people,
+when their chase has not been productive; their principal nourishment
+consisting, in that case, of the pine moss, which they boil till it is
+reduced to a sort of glue or black paste, of a sufficient consistence to
+take the form of biscuit. I had the curiosity to taste this bread, and I
+thought I had got in my mouth a bit of soap. Yet some of our people, who
+had been reduced to eat this glue, assured me that when fresh made it
+had a very good taste, seasoned with meat.[AC] We partly relieved these
+wretched natives from our scanty store.
+
+[Footnote AC: The process of boiling employed by the Indians in this
+case, extracts from the moss its gelatine, which serves to supply the
+waste of those tissues into which that principle enters; but as the moss
+contains little or none of the proximates which constitute the bulk of
+the living solids and fluids, it will not, of course, by itself, support
+life or strength.--ED.]
+
+On the 30th, while we were yet encamped at Kettle falls, Messrs. J.
+Stuart and Clarke arrived from the post at Spokan. The last was mounted
+on the finest-proportioned gray charger, full seventeen hands high, that
+I had seen in these parts: Mr. Stuart had got a fall from his, in trying
+to urge him, and had hurt himself severely. These gentlemen not having
+brought us the provisions we expected, because the hunters who had been
+sent for that purpose among the _Flatheads_, had not been able to
+procure any, it was resolved to divide our party, and that Messrs.
+M'Donald, J. Stuart, and M'Kenzie should go forward to the post situated
+east of the mountains, in order to send us thence horses and supplies.
+These gentlemen quitted us on the 1st of May. After their departure we
+killed two horses and dried the meat; which occupied us the rest of that
+day and all the next. In the evening of the 2d, Mr. A. Stuart arrived at
+our camp. He had recovered from his wounds (received in the conflict
+with the natives, before related), and was on his way to his old
+wintering place on _Slave lake_, to fetch his family to the Columbia.
+
+We resumed our route on the morning of the 3d of May, and went to encamp
+that evening at the upper-end of a rapid, where we began to descry
+mountains covered with forests, and where the banks of the river
+themselves were low and thinly timbered.
+
+On the 4th, after having passed several considerable rapids, we reached
+the confluence of _Flathead_ river. This stream comes from the S.E., and
+falls into the Columbia in the form of a cascade: it may be one hundred
+and fifty yards wide at its junction.
+
+On the morning of the 5th, we arrived at the confluence of the
+_Coutonais_ river. This stream also flows from the south, and has nearly
+the same width as the _Flathead_. Shortly after passing it, we entered
+a lake or enlargement of the river, which we crossed to encamp at its
+upper extremity. This lake may be thirty or forty miles, and about four
+wide at its broadest part: it is surrounded by lofty hills, which for
+the most part have their base at the water's edge, and rise by gradual
+and finely-wooded terraces, offering a sufficiently pretty view.
+
+On the 6th, after we had run through a narrow strait or channel some
+fifteen miles long, we entered another lake, of less extent than the
+former but equally picturesque. When we were nearly in the middle of it,
+an accident occurred which, if not very disastrous, was sufficiently
+singular. One of the men, who had been on the sick-list for several
+days, requested to be landed for an instant. Not being more than a mile
+from the shore, we acceded to his request, and made accordingly for a
+projecting head-land; but when we were about three hundred or four
+hundred yards from the point, the canoe struck with force against the
+trunk of a tree which was planted in the bottom of the lake, and the
+extremity of which barely reached the surface of the water.[AD] It
+needed no more to break a hole in so frail a vessel; the canoe was
+pierced through the bottom and filled in a trice; and despite all our
+efforts we could not get off the tree, which had penetrated two or three
+feet within her; perhaps that was our good fortune, for the opening was
+at least a yard long. One of the men, who was an expert swimmer,
+stripped, and was about to go ashore with an axe lashed to his back, to
+make a raft for us, when the other canoe, which had been proceeding up
+the lake, and was a mile ahead, perceived our signals of distress, and
+came to our succor. They carried us to land, where it was necessary to
+encamp forthwith, as well to dry ourselves as to mend the canoe.
+
+[Footnote AD: A _snag_ of course, of the nature of which the young
+Canadian seems to have been ignorant.]
+
+On the 7th, Mr. A. Stuart, whom we had left behind at Kettle falls, came
+up with us, and we pursued our route in company. Toward evening we met
+natives, camped on the bank of the river: they gave us a letter from
+which we learned that Mr. M'Donald and his party had passed there on the
+4th. The women at this camp were busy spinning the coarse wool of the
+mountain sheep: they had blankets or mantles, woven or platted of the
+same material, with a heavy fringe all round: I would gladly have
+purchased one of these, but as we were to carry all our baggage on our
+backs across the mountains, was forced to relinquish the idea. Having
+bought of these savages some pieces of dried venison, we pursued our
+journey. The country began to be ascending; the stream was very rapid;
+and we made that day little progress.
+
+On the 8th we began to see snow on the shoals or sand-banks of the
+river: the atmosphere grew very cold. The banks on either side presented
+only high hills covered to the top with impenetrable forests. While the
+canoes were working up a considerable rapid, I climbed the hills with
+Mr. M'Gillis, and we walked on, following the course of the river, some
+five or six miles. The snow was very deep in the ravines or narrow
+gorges which are found between the bases of the hills. The most common
+trees are the Norway pine and the cedar: the last is here, as on the
+borders of the sea, of a prodigious size.
+
+On the 9th and 10th, as we advanced but slowly, the country presented
+the same aspect as on the 8th. Toward evening of the 10th, we perceived
+a-head of us a chain of high mountains entirely covered with snow. The
+bed of the river was hardly more than sixty yards wide, and was filled
+with dry banks composed of coarse gravel and small pebble.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+     Course of the Columbia River.--Canoe River.--Foot-march toward the
+     Rocky Mountains.--Passage of the Mountains.
+
+
+On the 11th, that is to say, one month, day for day, after our departure
+from the falls, we quitted the Columbia, to enter a little stream to
+which Mr. Thompson had given, in 1811, the name of _Canoe_ river, from
+the fact that it was on this fork that he constructed the canoes which
+carried him to the Pacific.
+
+The Columbia, which in the portion above the falls (not taking into
+consideration some local sinuosities) comes from the N.N.E., takes a
+bend here so that the stream appears to flow from the S.E.[AE] Some
+boatmen, and particularly Mr. Regis Bruguier, who had ascended that
+river to its source, informed me that it came out of two small lakes,
+not far from the chain of the Rocky Mountains, which, at that place,
+diverges considerably to the east. According to Arrowsmith's map, the
+course of the _Tacoutche Tessé_, from its mouth in the Pacific Ocean, to
+its source in the Rocky mountains, is about twelve hundred English
+miles, or four hundred French leagues of twenty-five to a degree; that
+is to say, from two hundred and forty to two hundred and eighty miles
+from west to east, from its mouth to the first falls: seven hundred and
+fifty miles nearly from S.S.W. to N.N.E., from the first rapids to the
+bend at the confluence of _Canoe_ river; and one hundred and fifty or
+one hundred and eighty miles from that confluence to its source. We were
+not provided with the necessary instruments to determine the latitude,
+and still less the longitude, of our different stations; but it took us
+four or five days to go up from the factory at Astoria to the falls, and
+we could not have made less than sixty miles a day: and, as I have just
+remarked, we occupied an entire month in getting from the falls to Canoe
+river: deducting four or five days, on which we did not travel, there
+remain twenty-five days march; and it is not possible that we made less
+than thirty miles a day, one day with another.
+
+[Footnote AE: Mr. Franchere uniformly mentions the direction from which
+a stream appears to flow, not that toward which it runs; a natural
+method on the part of one who was ascending the current.]
+
+We ascended Canoe river to the point where it ceases to be navigable,
+and encamped in the same place where Mr. Thompson wintered in 1810-'11.
+We proceeded immediately to secure our canoes, and to divide the baggage
+among the men, giving each fifty pounds to carry, including his
+provisions. A sack of _pemican_, or pounded meat, which we found in a
+_cache_, where it had been left for us, was a great acquisition, as our
+supplies were nearly exhausted.
+
+On the 12th we began our foot march to the mountains, being twenty-four
+in number, rank and file. Mr. A. Stuart remained at the portage to
+bestow in a place of safety the effects which we could not carry, such
+as boxes, kegs, camp-kettles, &c. We traversed first some swamps, next a
+dense bit of forest, and then we found ourselves marching up the
+gravelly banks of the little _Canoe_ river. Fatigue obliged us to camp
+early.
+
+On the 13th we pursued our journey, and entered into the valleys between
+the mountains, where there lay not less than four or five feet of snow.
+We were obliged to ford the river ten or a dozen times in the course of
+the day, sometimes with the water up to our necks. These frequent
+fordings were rendered necessary by abrupt and steep rocks or bluffs,
+which it was impossible to get over without plunging into the wood for a
+great distance. The stream being very swift, and rushing over a bed of
+stones, one of the men fell and lost a sack containing our last piece of
+salt pork, which we were preserving as a most precious treasure. The
+circumstances in which we found ourselves made us regard this as a most
+unfortunate accident. We encamped that night at the foot of a steep
+mountain, and sent on Mr. Pillet and the guide, M'Kay, to hasten a
+supply of provisions to meet us.
+
+On the morning of the 14th we began to climb the mountain which we had
+before us. We were obliged to stop every moment, to take breath, so
+stiff was the ascent. Happily it had frozen hard the night before, and
+the crust of the snow was sufficient to bear us. After two or three
+hours of incredible exertions and fatigues, we arrived at the _plateau_
+or summit, and followed the footprints of those who had preceded us.
+This mountain is placed between two others a great deal more elevated,
+compared with which it is but a hill, and of which, indeed, it is only,
+as it were, the valley. Our march soon became fatiguing, on account of
+the depth of the snow, which, softened by the rays of the sun, could no
+longer bear us as in the morning. We were obliged to follow exactly the
+traces of those who had preceded us, and to plunge our legs up to the
+knees in the holes they had made, so that it was as if we had put on and
+taken off, at every step, a very large pair of boots. At last we arrived
+at a good hard bottom, and a clear space, which our guide said was a
+little lake frozen over, and here we stopped for the night. This lake,
+or rather these lakes (for there are two) are situated in the midst of
+the valley or _cup_ of the mountains. On either side were immense
+glaciers, or ice-bound rocks, on which the rays of the setting sun
+reflected the most beautiful prismatic colors. One of these icy peaks
+was like a fortress of rock; it rose perpendicularly some fifteen or
+eighteen hundred feet above the level of the lakes, and had the summit
+covered with ice. Mr. J. Henry, who first discovered the pass, gave this
+extraordinary rock the name of _M'Gillivray's Rock_, in honor of one of
+the partners of the N.W. Company. The lakes themselves are not much over
+three or four hundred yards in circuit, and not over two hundred yards
+apart. Canoe river, which, as we have already seen, flows to the west,
+and falls into the Columbia, takes its rise in one of them; while the
+other gives birth to one of the branches of the _Athabasca_, which runs
+first eastward, then northward, and which, after its junction with the
+_Unjighah_, north of the Lake of the Mountains, takes the name of
+_Slave_ river, as far the lake of that name, and afterward that of
+_M'Kenzie_ river, till it empties into, or is lost in, the Frozen ocean.
+Having cut a large pile of wood, and having, by tedious labor for nearly
+an hour, got through the ice to the clear water of the lake on which we
+were encamped, we supped frugally on pounded maize, arranged our
+bivouac, and passed a pretty good night, though it was bitterly cold.
+The most common wood of the locality was cedar and stunted pine. The
+heat of our fire made the snow melt, and by morning the embers had
+reached the solid ice: the depth from the snow surface was about five
+feet.
+
+On the 15th, we continued our route, and soon began to descend the
+mountain. At the end of three hours, we reached the banks of a
+stream--the outlet of the second lake above mentioned--here and there
+frozen over, and then again tumbling down over rock and pebbly bottom in
+a thousand fantastic gambols; and very soon we had to ford it. After a
+tiresome march, by an extremely difficult path in the midst of woods, we
+encamped in the evening under some cypresses. I had hit my right knee
+against the branch of a fallen tree on the first day of our march, and
+now began to suffer acutely with it. It was impossible, however, to
+flinch, as I must keep up with the party or be left to perish.
+
+On the 16th, our path lay through thick swamps and forest; we recrossed
+the small stream we had forded the day before, and our guide conducted
+us to the banks of the _Athabasca_, which we also forded. As this
+passage was the last to be made, we dried our clothes, and pursued our
+journey through a more agreeable country than on the preceding days. In
+the evening we camped on the margin of a verdant plain, which, the guide
+informed us, was called _Coro prairie_. We had met in the course of the
+day several buffalo tracks, and a number of the bones of that quadruped
+bleached by time. Our flesh-meat having given out entirely, our supper
+consisted in some handfuls of corn, which we parched in a pan.
+
+We resumed our route very early on the 17th, and after passing a forest
+of trembling poplar or aspen, we again came in sight of the river which
+we had left the day before. Arriving then at an elevated promontory or
+cape, our guide made us turn back in order to pass it at its most
+accessible point. After crossing it, not without difficulty, we soon
+came upon fresh horse-prints, a sure indication that there were some of
+those animals in our neighborhood. Emerging from the forest, each took
+the direction which he thought would lead soonest to an encampment. We
+all presently arrived at an old house which the traders of the N.W.
+Company had once constructed, but which had been abandoned for some four
+or five years. The site of this trading post is the most charming that
+can be imagined: suffice to say that it is built on the bank of the
+beautiful river _Athabasca_, and is surrounded by green, and smiling
+prairies and superb woodlands. Pity there is nobody there to enjoy these
+rural beauties and to praise, while admiring them, the Author of Nature.
+We found there Mr. Pillet, and one of Mr. J. M'Donald's party, who had
+his leg broken by the kick of a horse. After regaling ourselves with
+_pemican_ and some fresh venison, we set out again, leaving two of the
+party to take care of the lame man, and went on about eight or nine
+miles farther to encamp.
+
+On the 18th, we had rain. I took the lead, and after having walked about
+ten or twelve miles, on the slope of a mountain denuded of trees, I
+perceived some smoke issuing from a tuft of trees in the bottom of a
+valley, and near the river. I descended immediately, and reached a small
+camp, where I found two men who were coming to meet us with four horses.
+I made them fire off two guns as a signal to the rest of our people who
+were coming up in the rear, and presently we heard it repeated on the
+river, from which we were not far distant. We repaired thither, and
+found two of the men, who had been left at the last ford, and who,
+having constructed a bark canoe, were descending the river. I made one
+of them disembark, and took his place, my knee being so painful that I
+could walk no further. Meanwhile the whole party came up; they loaded
+the horses, and pursued their route. In the course of the day my
+companion (an Iroquois) and I, shot seven ducks. Coming, at last, to a
+high promontory called _Millet's rock_, we found some of our
+foot-travellers with Messrs. Stewart and Clarke, who were on horseback,
+all at a stand, doubting whether it would answer to wade round the base
+of the rock, which dipped in the water. We sounded the stream for them,
+and found it fordable. So they all passed round, thereby avoiding the
+inland path, which is excessively fatiguing by reason of the hills,
+which it is necessary perpetually to mount and descend. We encamped, to
+the number of seven, at the entrance of what at high water might be a
+lake, but was then but a flat of blackish sand, with a narrow channel in
+the centre. Here we made an excellent supper on the wild ducks, while
+those who were behind had nothing to eat.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+     Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.--Description of this
+     Post.--Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.--Mountain
+     Sheep, &c.--Continuation of the Journey.--Unhappy
+     Accident.--Reflections.--News from Canada.--Hunter's
+     Lodge.--Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.
+
+
+On the 19th we raised our camp and followed the shore of the little dry
+lake, along a smooth sandy beach, having abandoned our little bark
+canoe, both because it had become nearly unserviceable, and because we
+knew ourselves to be very near the Rocky Mountains House. In fact, we
+had not gone above five or six miles when we discerned a column of smoke
+on the opposite side of the stream. We immediately forded across, and
+arrived at the post, where we found Messrs. M'Donald, Stuart, and
+M'Kenzie, who had preceded us only two days.
+
+The post of the Rocky Mountains, in English, _Rocky Mountains House_, is
+situated on the shore of the little lake I have mentioned, in the midst
+of a wood, and is surrounded, except on the water side, by steep rocks,
+inhabited only by the mountain sheep and goat. Here is seen in the west
+the chain of the Rocky Mountains, whose summits are covered with
+perpetual snow. On the lake side, _Millet's Rock_, of which I have
+spoken above, is in full view, of an immense height, and resembles the
+front of a huge church seen in perspective. The post was under the
+charge of a Mr. Decoigne. He does not procure many furs for the company,
+which has only established the house as a provision depôt, with the view
+of facilitating the passage of the mountains to those of its _employés_
+who are repairing to, or returning from, the Columbia.
+
+People speak so often of the Rocky Mountains, and appear to know so
+little about them, that the reader will naturally desire me to say here
+a word on that subject. If we are to credit travellers, and the most
+recent maps, these mountains extend nearly in a straight line, from the
+35th or 36th degree of north latitude, to the mouth of the _Unjighah_,
+or _M'Kenzie's river_, in the Arctic ocean, in latitude 65° or 66° N.
+This distance of thirty degrees of latitude, or seven hundred and fifty
+leagues, equivalent to two thousand two hundred and fifty English miles
+or thereabouts, is, however, only the mean side of a right-angled
+triangle, the base of which occupies twenty-six degrees of longitude, in
+latitude 35° or 36°, that is to say, is about sixteen hundred miles
+long, while the chain of mountains forms the _hypotenuse_; so that the
+real, and as it were diagonal, length of the chain, across the
+continent, must be very near three thousand miles from S.E. to N.W. In
+such a vast extent of mountains, the perpendicular height and width of
+base must necessarily be very unequal. We were about eight days in
+crossing them; whence I conclude, from our daily rate of travel, that
+they may have, at this point, i.e., about latitude 54°, a base of two
+hundred miles.
+
+The geographer Pinkerton is assuredly mistaken, when he gives these
+mountains an elevation of but three thousand feet above the level of the
+sea; from my own observations I would not hesitate to give them six
+thousand; we attained, in crossing them, an elevation probably of
+fifteen hundred feet above the valleys, and were not, perhaps, nearer
+than half way of their total height, while the valleys themselves must
+be considerably elevated above the level of the Pacific, considering the
+prodigious number of rapids and falls which are met in the Columbia,
+from the first falls to Canoe river. Be that as it may, if these
+mountains yield to the Andes in elevation and extent, they very much
+surpass in both respects the Apalachian chain, regarded until recently
+as the principal mountains of North America: they give rise,
+accordingly, to an infinity of streams, and to the greatest rivers of
+the continent.[AF]
+
+[Footnote AF: This is interesting, as the rough calculation of an
+unscientific traveller, unprovided with instruments, and at that date.
+The real height of the Rocky Mountains, as now ascertained, averages
+twelve thousand feet; the highest known peak is about sixteen
+thousand.--ED.]
+
+They offer a vast and unexplored field to natural history: no botanist,
+no mineralogist, has yet examined them. The first travellers called them
+the Glittering mountains, on account of the infinite number of immense
+rock crystals, which, they say, cover their surface, and which, when
+they are not covered with snow, or in the bare places, reflect to an
+immense distance the rays of the sun. The name of Rocky mountains was
+given them, probably, by later travellers, in consequence of the
+enormous isolated rocks which they offer here and there to the view. In
+fact, Millet's rock, and _M'Gillivray's_ above all, appeared to me
+wonders of nature. Some think that they contain metals, and precious
+stones.
+
+With the exception of the mountain sheep and goat, the animals of the
+Rocky mountains, if these rocky passes support any, are not better known
+than their vegetable and mineral productions. The mountain sheep resorts
+generally to steep rocks, where it is impossible for men or even for
+wolves to reach them: we saw several on the rocks which surround the
+Mountain House. This animal has great curved horns, like those of the
+domestic ram: its wool is long, but coarse; that on the belly is the
+finest and whitest. The Indians who dwell near the mountains, make
+blankets of it, similar to ours, which they exchange with the Indians of
+the Columbia for fish, and other commodities. The ibex, or mountain
+goat, frequents, like the sheep, the top and the declivities of the
+rocks: it differs from the sheep in having hair instead of wool, and
+straight horns projecting backward, instead of curved ones. The color is
+also different. The natives soften the horns of these animals by
+boiling, and make platters, spoons, &c., of them, in a very artistic
+manner.
+
+Mr. Decoigne had not sufficient food for us, not having expected so many
+people to arrive at once. His hunters were then absent on _Smoke_ river
+(so called by some travellers who saw in the neighborhood a volcanic
+mountain belching smoke), in quest of game. We were therefore compelled
+to kill one of the horses for food. We found no birch bark either to
+make canoes, and set the men to work in constructing some of wood. For
+want of better materials, we were obliged to use poplar. On the 22d, the
+three men whom we had left at the old-house, arrived in a little canoe
+made of two elk-skins sewed together, and stretched like a drum, on a
+frame of poles.
+
+On the 24th, four canoes being ready, we fastened them together two and
+two, and embarked, to descend the river to an old post called _Hunter's
+Lodge_, where Mr. Decoigne, who was to return with us to Canada,
+informed us that we should find some bark canoes _en cache_, placed
+there for the use of the persons who descend the river. The water was
+not deep, and the stream was rapid; we glided along, so to speak, for
+ten or a dozen leagues, and encamped, having lost sight of the
+mountains. In proportion as we advanced, the banks of the river grew
+less steep, and the country became more agreeable.
+
+On the 25th, having only a little _pemican_ left, which we wished to
+keep, we sent forward a hunter in the little elk-skin canoe, to kill
+some game. About ten o'clock, we found him waiting for us with two
+moose that he had killed. He had suspended the hearts from the branch of
+a tree as a signal. We landed some men to help him in cutting up and
+shipping the game. We continued to glide safely down. But toward two
+o'clock, P.M., after doubling a point, we got into a considerable rapid,
+where, by the maladroitness of those who managed the double pirogue in
+which I was, we met with a melancholy accident. I had proposed to go
+ashore, in order to lighten the canoes, which were loaded to the water's
+edge; but the steersman insisted that we could go down safe, while the
+bow-man was turning the head of the pirogue toward the beach; by this
+manoeuvre we were brought athwart the stream, which was carrying us fast
+toward the falls; just then our frail bark struck upon a sunken rock;
+the lower canoe broke amid-ships and filled instantly, and the upper one
+being lighted, rolled over, precipitating us all into the water. Two of
+our men, Olivier Roy Lapensée and André Bélanger, were drowned; and it
+was not without extreme difficulty that we succeeded in saving Messrs.
+Pillet and Wallace, as well as a man named _J. Hurteau_. The latter was
+so far gone that we were obliged to have recourse to the usual means for
+the resuscitation of drowned persons. The men lost all their effects;
+the others recovered but a part of theirs; and all our provisions went.
+Toward evening, in ascending the river (for I had gone about two miles
+below, to recover the effects floating down), we found the body of
+Lapensée. We interred it as decently as we could, and planted at his
+grave a cross, on which I inscribed with the point of my knife, his name
+and the manner and date of his death. Bélanger's body was not found. If
+anything could console the shades of the departed for a premature and
+unfortunate end, it would be, no doubt, that the funeral rites have been
+paid to their remains, and that they themselves have given their names
+to the places where they perished: it is thus that the shade of
+Palinurus rejoiced in the regions below, at learning from the mouth of
+the Sibyl, that the promontory near which he was drowned would
+henceforth be called by his name: _gaudet cognomine terra_. The rapid
+and the point of land where the accident I have described took place,
+will bear, and bears already, probably, the name of _Lapensée_.[AG]
+
+[Footnote AG: Mr. Franchere, not having the fear of the _Abbé Gaume_
+before his eyes, so wrote in his Journal of 1814; finding consolation in
+a thought savoring, we confess, more of Virgil than of the catechism. It
+is a classic term that calls to our mind rough Captain _Thorn's_
+sailor-like contempt for his literary passengers so comically described
+by Mr. _Irving_. Half of the humor as well as of the real interest of
+Mr. Franchere's charming narrative, is lost by one who has never read
+"Astoria."]
+
+On the 26th, a part of our people embarked in the three canoes which
+remained, and the others followed the banks of the river on foot. We saw
+in several places some veins of bituminous coal, on the banks between
+the surface of the water and that of the plain, say thirty feet below
+the latter; the veins had a dip of about 25°. We tried some and found it
+to burn well. We halted in the evening near a small stream, where we
+constructed some rafts, to carry all our people.
+
+On the 27th, I went forward in the little canoe of skins, with the two
+hunters. We soon killed an elk, which we skinned and suspended the hide,
+besmeared with blood, from the branch of a tree at the extremity of a
+point, in order that the people behind, as they came up, might perceive
+and take in the fruit of our chase. After fortifying ourselves with a
+little food, we continued to glide down, and encamped for the night near
+a thick wood where our hunters, from the tracks they observed, had hopes
+of encountering and capturing some bears. This hope was not realized.
+
+On the 28th, a little after quitting camp, we killed a swan. While I was
+busy cooking it, the hunters having plunged into the wood, I heard a
+rifle-shot, which seemed to me to proceed from a direction opposite to
+that which they had taken. They returned very soon running, and were
+extremely surprised to learn that it was not I who had fired it.
+Nevertheless, the canoes and rafts having overtaken us, we continued to
+descend the river. Very soon we met a bark canoe, containing two men and
+a woman, who were ascending the river and bringing letters and some
+goods for the _Rocky Mountains House_. We learned from these letters
+addressed to Mr. Decoigne, several circumstances of the war, and among
+others the defeat of Captain Barclay on Lake Erie. We arrived that
+evening at _Hunter's Lodge_, where we found four new birch-bark canoes.
+We got ready two of them, and resumed our journey down, on the 31st. Mr.
+Pillet set out before us with the hunters, at a very early hour. They
+killed an elk, which they left on a point, and which we took in. The
+country through which we passed that day is the most charming possible;
+the river is wide, handsome, and bordered with low outjutting points,
+covered with birch and poplar.
+
+On the 1st of June, in the evening, we encamped at the confluence of the
+river _Pembina_. This stream comes from the south, and takes its rise in
+one of the spurs of the great chain of the Rocky mountains; ascending it
+for two days, and crossing a neck of land about seventy-five miles, one
+reaches Fort Augustus, a trading post on the _Saskatchawine_ river.
+Messrs. M'Donald and M'Kenzie had taken this route, and had left for us
+half a sack of pemican in a _cache_, at the mouth of the river
+_Pembina_. After landing that evening, Mr. Stuart and I amused ourselves
+with angling, but took only five or six small fish.
+
+On the 2d, we passed the confluence of _Little Slave Lake_ river. At
+eight o'clock in the morning, we met a band or family of Indians, of the
+_Knisteneaux_ tribe. They had just killed a buffalo, which we bought of
+them for a small brass-kettle. We could not have had a more seasonable
+_rencontre_, for our provisions were all consumed.
+
+On the 3d, we reached _Little Red Elk_ river, which we began to ascend,
+quitting the _Athabasca_, or _Great Red Elk_. This stream was very
+narrow in its channel, and obstructed with boulders: we were obliged to
+take to the shore, while some of the men dragged along the canoes. Their
+method was to lash poles across, and wading themselves, lift the canoes
+over the rocks--a laborious and infinitely tedious operation. The march
+along the banks was not less disagreeable: for we had to traverse points
+of forest where the fire had passed, and which were filled with fallen
+trees.
+
+Wallace and I having stopped to quench our thirst at a rill, the rest
+got in advance of us; and we lost our way in a labyrinth of buffalo
+tracks which we mistook for the trail, so that we wandered about for
+three hours before we came up with the party, who began to fear for our
+safety, and were firing signal-guns to direct us. As the river now grew
+deeper, we all embarked in the canoes, and about evening overtook our
+hunters, who had killed a moose and her two calves.
+
+We continued our journey on the 4th, sometimes seated in our canoes,
+sometimes marching along the river on foot, and encamped in the evening,
+excessively fatigued.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+     Red Deer Lake.--Antoine Déjarlais.--Beaver River.--N.
+     Nadeau.--Moose River.--Bridge Lake.--Saskatchawine River.--Fort
+     Vermilion.--Mr. Hallet.--Trading-Houses.--Beautiful
+     Country.--Reflections.
+
+
+The 5th of June brought us to the beautiful sheet of water called _Red
+Deer lake_, irregular in shape, dotted with islands, and about forty
+miles in length by thirty in its greatest width. We met, about the
+middle of it, a small canoe conducted by two young women. They were
+searching for gulls' and ducks' eggs on the islands, this being the
+season of laying for those aquatics. They told us that their father was
+not far distant from the place where we met them. In fact, we presently
+saw him appear in a canoe with his two boys, rounding a little isle. We
+joined him, and learned that his name was Antoine Déjarlais; that he
+had been a guide in the service of the Northwest Company, but had left
+them since 1805. On being made acquainted with our need of provisions,
+he offered us a great quantity of eggs, and made one of our men embark
+with his two daughters in their little canoe, to seek some more
+substantial supplies at his cabin, on the other side of the lake. He
+himself accompanied us as far as a portage of about twenty-five yards
+formed at the outlet of the lake by a Beaver dam. Having performed the
+portage, and passed a small pond or marsh, we encamped to await the
+return of our man. He arrived the next morning, with Déjarlais, bringing
+us about fifty pounds of dried venison and from ten to twelve pounds of
+tallow. We invited our host to breakfast with us: it was the least we
+could do after the good offices he had rendered us. This man was married
+to an Indian woman, and lived with his family, on the produce of his
+chase; he appeared quite contented with his lot. Nobody at least
+disputed with him the sovereignty of Red Deer lake, of which he had; as
+it were, taken possession. He begged me to read for him two letters
+which he had had in his possession for two years, and of which he did
+not yet know the contents. They were from one of his sisters, and dated
+at _Verchères_, in Canada. I even thought that I recognised the
+handwriting of Mr. L.G. Labadie, teacher of that parish. At last, having
+testified to this good man, in suitable terms, our gratitude for the
+services he had rendered us, we quitted him and prosecuted our journey.
+
+After making two portages, we arrived on the banks of Beaver river,
+which was here but a rivulet. It is by this route that the canoes
+ordinarily pass to reach Little Slave lake and the Athabasca country,
+from the head of Lake Superior, via., _Cumberland House_, on _English
+river_. We were obliged by the shallowness of the stream, to drag along
+our canoes, walking on a bottom or beach of sand, where we began to feel
+the importunity of the mosquitoes. One of the hunters scoured the woods
+for game but without success. By-and-by we passed a small canoe turned
+bottom up and covered with a blanket. Soon after we came to a cabin or
+lodge, where we found an old Canadian hunter named _Nadeau_. He was
+reduced to the last stage of weakness, having had nothing to eat for two
+days. Nevertheless, a young man who was married to one of his daughters,
+came in shortly after, with the good news that he had just killed a
+buffalo; a circumstance which determined us to encamp there for the
+night. We sent some of our men to get in the meat. Nadeau gave us half
+of it, and told us that we should find, thirty miles lower down, at the
+foot of a pine tree, a _cache_, where he had deposited ten swan-skins,
+and some of martin, with a net, which he prayed us to take to the next
+trading-post. We quitted this good fellow the next morning, and pursued
+our way. Arriving at the place indicated, we found the _cache_, and took
+the net, leaving the other articles. A short distance further, we came
+to Moose river, which we had to ascend, in order to reach the lake of
+that name. The water in this river was so low that we were obliged
+entirely to unload the canoes, and to lash poles across them, as we had
+done before, that the men might carry them on their shoulders over the
+places where they could not be floated. Having distributed the baggage
+to the remainder of the hands, we pursued our way through the woods,
+under the guidance of Mr. Decoigne.
+
+This gentleman, who had not passed here for nineteen years, soon lost
+his way, and we got separated into small parties, in the course of the
+afternoon, some going one way, and some another, in search of Moose
+lake. But as we had outstripped the men who carried the baggage and the
+small stock of provision that old Nadeau had given us, Mr. Wallace and I
+thought it prudent to retrace our steps and keep with the rear-guard. We
+soon met Mr. Pillet and one of the hunters. The latter, ferreting the
+woods on both sides of a trail that he had discovered, soon gave a
+whoop, to signify that we should stop. Presently emerging from the
+underwood, he showed us a horsewhip which he had found, and from which
+and from other unmistakeable signs, he was confident the trail would
+lead either to the lake or a navigable part of the river. The men with
+the baggage then coming up, we entered the thicket single file, and were
+conducted by this path, in a very short time, to the river, on the banks
+of which were visible the traces of an old camping ground. The night was
+coming on; and soon after, the canoes arrived, to our great
+satisfaction; for we had begun to fear that they had already passed. The
+splashing of their paddles was a welcome sound, and we who had been wise
+enough to keep behind, all encamped together.
+
+Very early on the 8th, I set out accompanied by one of the hunters, in
+quest of Messrs. D. Stuart, Clarke and Decoigne, who had gone on ahead,
+the night previous. I soon found MM. Clarke and M'Gillis encamped on the
+shore of the lake. The canoes presently arrived and we embarked; MM.
+Stuart and Decoigne rejoined us shortly after, and informed us that they
+had bivouacked on the shore of Lac _Puant_, or Stinking lake, a pond
+situated about twelve miles E.N.E. from the lake we were now entering.
+Finding ourselves thus reunited, we traversed the latter, which is about
+eighteen miles in circuit, and has very pretty shores. We encamped, very
+early, on an island, in order to use old Nadeau's fishing net. I visited
+it that evening and brought back three carp and two water-hens. We left
+it set all night, and the next morning found in it twenty white-fish.
+Leaving camp at an early hour, we gained the entrance of a small stream
+that descends between some hills of moderate elevation, and there
+stopped to breakfast. I found the white-fish more delicious in flavor,
+even than the salmon. We had again to foot it, following the bank of
+this little stream. It was a painful task, as we were obliged to open a
+path through thick underbrush, in the midst of a rain that lasted all
+day and kept us drenched. Two men being left in each canoe, conveyed
+them up the river about thirty miles, as far as Long lake--a narrow
+pond, on the margin of which we spent the night.
+
+On the 10th, we got through this lakelet, and entered another small
+stream, which it was necessary to navigate in the same manner as the
+preceding, and which conducted us to Bridge lake. The latter received
+its name from a sort of bridge or causeway, formed at its southern
+extremity, and which is nothing more than a huge beaver dam. We found
+here a lodge, where were a young man and two women, who had charge of
+some horses appertaining to one of the Hudson's Bay trading houses. We
+borrowed of them half a dozen pack horses, and crossed the bridge with
+them. After surmounting a considerable hill, we reached an open, level,
+and dry prairie, which conducted us in about two hours to an ancient
+trading-post on the banks of the _Saskatchawine_. Knowing that we were
+near a factory, we made our toilets as well as we could, before
+arriving. Toward sundown, we reached Fort Vermilion, which is situated
+on the bank of a river, at the foot of a superb hill.
+
+We found at this post some ninety persons, men, women, and children;
+these people depend for subsistence on the chase, and fishing with
+hooks and lines, which is very precarious. Mr. Hallet, the clerk in
+charge was absent, and we were dismayed to hear that there were no
+provisions on the place: a very disagreeable piece of news for people
+famished as we were. We had been led to suppose that if we could only
+reach the plains of the Saskatchawine, we should be in the land of
+plenty. Mr. Hallet, however, was not long in arriving: he had two
+quarters of buffalo meat brought out, which had been laid in ice, and
+prepared us supper. Mr. Hallet was a polite sociable man, loving his
+ease passably well, and desirous of living in these wild countries, as
+people do in civilized lands. Having testified to him our surprise at
+seeing in one of the buildings a large _cariole_, like those of Canada,
+he informed us that having horses, he had had this carriage made in
+order to enjoy a sleigh-ride; but that the workmen having forgot to take
+the measure of the doors of the building before constructing it, it was
+found when finished, much too large for them, and could never be got out
+of the room where it was; and it was like to remain there a long time,
+as he was not disposed to demolish the house for the pleasure of using
+the cariole.
+
+By the side of the factory of the Northwest Company, is another
+belonging to the Company of Hudson's Bay. In general these
+trading-houses are constructed thus, one close to the other, and
+surrounded with a common palisade, with a door of communication in the
+interior for mutual succor, in case of attack on the part of the
+Indians. The latter, in this region, particularly the Black-feet,
+_Gros-ventres_, and those of the Yellow river, are very ferocious: they
+live by the chase, but bring few furs to the traders; and the latter
+maintain these posts principally to procure themselves provisions.
+
+On the. 11th, after breakfasting at Fort Vermilion, we resumed our
+journey, with six or seven pounds of tallow for our whole stock of food.
+This slender supply brought us through to the evening of the third day,
+when we had for supper two ounces of tallow each.
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, we killed a wild goose, and toward midday,
+collected some flag-root and _choux-gras_, a wild herb, which we boiled
+with the small game: we did not forget to throw into the pot the little
+tallow we had left, and made a delicious repast. Toward the decline of
+day, we had the good luck to kill a buffalo.
+
+On the 15th, MM. Clarke and Decoigne having landed during our course, to
+hunt, returned presently with the agreeable intelligence that they had
+killed three buffaloes. We immediately encamped, and sent the greater
+part of the men to cut up the meat and jerk it. This operation lasted
+till the next evening, and we set forward again in the canoes on the
+17th, with about six hundred pounds of meat half cured. The same evening
+we perceived from our camp several herds of buffaloes, but did not give
+chase, thinking we had enough meat to take us to the next post.
+
+The river _Saskatchawine_ flows over a bed composed of sand and marl,
+which contributes not a little to diminish the purity and transparency
+of its waters, which, like those of the Missouri, are turbid and
+whitish. Except for that it is one of the prettiest rivers in the world.
+The banks are perfectly charming, and offer in many places a scene the
+fairest, the most smiling, and the best diversified that can be seen or
+imagined: hills in varied forms, crowned with superb groves; valleys
+agreeably embrowned, at evening and morning, by the prolonged shadow of
+the hills, and of the woods which adorn them; herds of light-limbed
+antelopes, and heavy colossal buffalo--the former bounding along the
+slopes of the hills, the latter trampling under their heavy feet the
+verdure of the plains; all these champaign beauties reflected and
+doubled as it were, by the waters of the river; the melodious and varied
+song of a thousand birds, perched on the tree-tops; the refreshing
+breath of the zephyrs; the serenity of the sky; the purity and salubrity
+of the air; all, in a word, pours contentment and joy into the soul of
+the enchanted spectator. It is above all in the morning, when the sun is
+rising, and in the evening when he is setting, that the spectacle is
+really ravishing. I could not detach my regards from that superb
+picture, till the nascent obscurity had obliterated its perfection.
+Then, to the sweet pleasure that I had tasted, succeeded a _triste_, not
+to say, a sombre, melancholy. How comes it to pass, I said to myself,
+that so beautiful a country is not inhabited by human creatures? The
+songs, the hymns, the prayers, of the laborer and the artisan, shall
+they never be heard in these fine plains? Wherefore, while in Europe,
+and above all in England, so many thousands of men do not possess as
+their own an inch of ground, and cultivate the soil of their
+country for proprietors who scarcely leave them whereon to support
+existence;--wherefore--do so many millions of acres of apparently fat
+and fertile land, remain uncultivated and absolutely useless? Or, at
+least, why do they support only herds of wild animals? Will men always
+love better to vegetate all their lives on an ungrateful soil, than to
+seek afar fertile regions, in order to pass in peace and plenty, at
+least the last portion of their days? But I deceive myself; it is not
+so easy as one thinks, for the poor man to better his condition: he has
+not the means of transporting himself to distant countries, or he has
+not those of acquiring a property there; for these untilled lands,
+deserted, abandoned, do not appertain to whoever wishes to establish
+himself upon them and reduce them to culture; they have owners, and from
+these must be purchased the right of rendering them productive! Besides
+one ought not to give way to illusions: these countries, at times so
+delightful, do not enjoy a perpetual spring; they have their winter, and
+a rigorous one; a piercing cold is then spread through the atmosphere;
+deep snows cover the surface; the frozen rivers flow only for the fish;
+the trees are stripped of their leaves and hung with icicles; the
+verdure of the plains has disappeared; the hills and valleys offer but a
+uniform whiteness; Nature has lost all her beauty; and man has enough to
+do, to shelter himself from the injuries of the inclement season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+     Fort Montée--Cumberland House.--Lake Bourbon.--Great Winipeg
+     Rapids.--Lake Winipeg.--Trading-House.--Lake of the Woods.--Rainy
+     Lake House, &c.
+
+
+On the 18th of June (a day which its next anniversary was to render for
+ever celebrated in the annals of the world), we re-embarked at an early
+hour: and the wind rising, spread sail, a thing we had not done before,
+since we quitted the river Columbia. In the afternoon the clouds
+gathered thick and black, and we had a gust, accompanied with hail, but
+of short duration; the weather cleared up again, and about sundown we
+arrived at _Le Fort de la Montêe_, so called, on account of its being a
+depôt, where the traders going south, leave their canoes and take
+pack-horses to reach their several posts. We found here, as at Fort
+Vermilion, two trading-houses joined together, to make common cause
+against the Indians; one belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, the
+other to the company of the Northwest: the Hudson's Bay house being then
+under the charge of a Mr. Prudent, and the N.W. Company's under a Mr.
+John M'Lean. Mr. de Roche Blave, one of the partners of the last company
+having the superintendence of this district, where he had wintered, had
+gone to Lake Superior to attend the annual meeting of the partners.
+There were cultivated fields around the house; the barley and peas
+appeared to promise an abundant harvest. Mr. M'Lean received us as well
+as circumstances permitted; but that gentleman having no food to give
+us, and our buffalo meat beginning to spoil, we set off the next
+morning, to reach Cumberland house as quick as possible. In the course
+of the day, we passed two old forts, one of which had been built by the
+French before the conquest of Canada. According to our guide, it was the
+most distant western post that the French traders ever had in the
+northwestern wilderness. Toward evening we shot a moose. The aspect of
+the country changes considerably since leaving _Montée_; the banks of
+the river rise more boldly, and the country is covered with forests.
+
+On the 20th, we saw some elms--a tree that I had not seen hitherto,
+since my departure from Canada. We reached Fort Cumberland a little
+before the setting of the sun. This post, called in English _Cumberland
+House_, is situated at the outlet of the _Saskatchawine_, where it
+empties into _English lake_, between the 53d and 54th degrees of north
+latitude. It is a depot for those traders who are going to Slave lake or
+the Athabasca, or are returning thence, as well as for those destined
+for the Rocky mountains. It was under the orders of Mr. J.D. Campbell,
+who having gone down to Fort William, however, had left it in charge of
+a Mr. Harrison. There are two factories, as at Vermilion and la Montée.
+At this place the traders who resort every year to Fort William, leave
+their half-breed or Indian wives and families, as they can live here at
+little expense, the lake abounding in fish. Messrs. Clarke and Stuart,
+who were behind, arrived on the 22d, and in the evening we had a dance.
+They gave us four sacs of pemican, and we set off again, on the 23d, at
+eight A.M. We crossed the lake, and entered a small river, and having
+made some eighty or ninety miles under sail, encamped on a low shore,
+where the mosquitoes tormented us horribly all night.
+
+On the 24th, we passed _Muddy_ lake, and entered Lake _Bourbon_, where
+we fell in with a canoe from _York_ factory, under the command of a Mr.
+Kennedy, clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company. We collected some dozens of
+gulls' eggs, on the rocky islands of the lake: and stopping on one of
+the last at night, having a little flour left, Mr. Decoigne and I amused
+ourselves in making fritters for the next day's breakfast: an
+occupation, which despite the small amount of materials, employed us
+till we were surprised by the daybreak; the night being but brief at
+this season in that high latitude.
+
+At sunrise on the 25th, we were again afloat, passed Lake _Travers_, or
+_Cross_ lake, which empties into Lake Winipeg by a succession of
+rapids; shot down these cascades without accident, and arrived, toward
+noon, at the great rapid _Ouénipic_ or Winipeg, which is about four
+miles long. We disembarked here, and the men worked down the canoes. At
+the foot of this rapid, which is the inlet of Winipeg, we found an old
+Canadian fisherman, who called himself _King of the lake_. He might
+fairly style himself king of the fish, which are abundant and which he
+alone enjoyed. Having made a boil, and regaled ourselves with excellent
+sturgeon, we left this old man, and entered the great lake Winipeg,
+which appeared to me like a sea of fresh water. This lake is now too
+well known to need a particular description: I will content myself with
+saying that it visibly yields in extent only to Lake Superior and Great
+Slave lake: it has for tributaries several large rivers, and among
+others the Saskatchawine, the Winipeg, in the east; and Red river in the
+south; and empties into Hudson's bay by the _Nelson_, N.N.E., and the
+_Severn_, E.N.E. The shores which it bathes are generally very low; it
+appears to have little depth, and is dotted with a vast number of
+islands, lying pretty close to land. We reached one called _Egg island_,
+whence it was necessary to cross to the south to reach the main; but the
+wind was so violent that it was only at decline of day that we could
+perform the passage. We profited by the calm, to coast along all day and
+a part of the night of the 26th; but to pay for it, remained in camp on
+the 27th, till evening: the wind not suffering us to proceed. The wind
+having appeared to abate somewhat after sunset, we embarked, but were
+soon forced to land again. On the 28th, we passed the openings of
+several deep bays, and the isles of _St. Martin_, and camped at the
+bottom of a little bay, where the mosquitoes did not suffer us to close
+our eyes all night. We were rejoiced when dawn appeared, and were eager
+to embark, to free ourselves from these inconvenient guests. A calm
+permitted us that day to make good progress with our oars, and we camped
+at _Buffalo Strait_. We saw that day two Indian wigwams.
+
+The 30th brought us to Winipeg river, which we began to ascend, and
+about noon reached Port _Bas de la Rivière_. This trading post had more
+the air of a large and well-cultivated farm, than of a fur traders'
+factory: a neat and elegant mansion, built on a slight eminence, and
+surrounded with barns, stables, storehouses, &c., and by fields of
+barley, peas, oats, and potatoes, reminded us of the civilized countries
+which we had left so long ago. Messrs. Crébassa and Kennedy, who had
+this post in charge, received us with all possible hospitality, and
+supplied us with all the political news which had been learned through
+the arrival of canoes from Canada.
+
+They also informed us that Messrs M'Donald and de Rocheblave had passed,
+a few days before our arrival, having been obliged to go up Red river to
+stop the effusion of blood, which would probably have taken place but
+for their intervention, in the colony founded on that river by the earl
+of Selkirk. Mr. Miles M'Donnell, the governor of that colony, or rather
+of the _Assiniboyne_ district, had issued a proclamation forbidding all
+persons whomsoever, to send provisions of any kind out of the district.
+The Hudson's Bay traders had conformed to this proclamation, but those
+of the Northwest Company paid no attention to it, thinking it illegal,
+and had sent their servants, as usual to get provisions up the river.
+Mr. M'Donnell having heard that several hundred sacks of pemican[AH]
+were laid up in a storehouse under the care of a Mr. Pritchard, sent to
+require their surrender: Pritchard refused to deliver them, whereupon
+Mr. M'Donnell had them carried off by force. The traders who winter on
+Little Slave lake, English river, the Athabasca country, &c., learning
+this, and being aware that they would not find their usual supply at
+_Bas de la Rivière_, resolved to go and recover the seized provisions by
+force, if they were not peaceably given up. Things were in this position
+when Messrs, de Rocheblave and M'Donald arrived. They found the Canadian
+_voyageurs_ in arms, and ready to give battle to the colonists, who
+persisted in their refusal to surrender the bags of pemican. The two
+peacemakers visited the governor, and having explained to him the
+situation in which the traders of the Northwest Company would find
+themselves, by the want of necessary provisions to enable them to
+transport their peltries to Fort William, and the exasperation of their
+men, who saw no other alternative for them, but to get possession of
+those provisions or to perish of hunger, requested him to surrender the
+same without delay. Mr. M'Donnell, on his part, pointed out the misery
+to which the colonists would be reduced by a failure in the supply of
+food. In consequence of these mutual representations, it was agreed that
+one half of the pemican should be restored, and the other half remain
+for the use of the colonists. Thus was arranged, without bloodshed, the
+first difficulty which occurred between the rival companies of the
+Northwest, and of Hudson's Bay.
+
+[Footnote AH: _Pemican_, of which I have already spoken several times,
+is the Indian name for the dried and pounded meat which the natives sell
+to the traders. About fifty pounds of this meat is placed in a trough
+(_un grand vaisseau fait d'un tronc d'arbre_), and about an equal
+quantity of tallow is melted and poured over it; it is thoroughly mixed
+into one mass, and when cold, is put up in bags made of undressed
+buffalo hide, with the hair outside, and sewed up as tightly as
+possible. The meat thus impregnated with tallow, hardens, and will keep
+for years. It is eaten without any other preparation; but sometimes wild
+pears or dried berries are added, which render the flavor more
+agreeable.]
+
+Having spent the 1st of July in repairing our canoes, we re-embarked on
+the 2d, and continued to ascend Winipeg river, called also _White
+river_, on account of the great number of its cascades, which being very
+near each other, offer to the sight an almost continuous foam. We made
+that day twenty-seven portages, all very short. On the 3d, and 4th, we
+made nine more, and arrived on the 5th, at the _Lake of the Woods_. This
+lake takes its name from the great number of woody islands with which it
+is dotted. Our guide pointed out to me one of these isles, telling me
+that a Jesuit father had said mass there, and that it was the most
+remote spot to which those missionaries had ever penetrated. We encamped
+on one of the islands. The next day the wind did not allow us to make
+much progress. On the 7th, we gained the entrance of _Rainy Lake river_.
+I do not remember ever to have seen elsewhere so many mosquitoes as on
+the banks of this river. Having landed near a little rapid to lighten
+the canoes, we had the misfortune, in getting through the brush, to
+dislodge these insects from under the leaves where they had taken refuge
+from the rain of the night before; they attached themselves to us,
+followed us into the canoes, and tormented us all the remainder of the
+day.
+
+On the 8th, at sunset, we reached _Rainy Lake House_. This fort is
+situated about a mile from a considerable rapid. We saw here cultivated
+fields and domestic animals, such as horses, oxen, cows, &c. The port is
+a depôt for the wintering parties of the Athabasca, and others still
+more remote, who bring to it their peltries and return from it with
+their outfits of merchandise. Mr. John Dease, to whose charge the place
+had been confided, received us in the most friendly manner possible; and
+after having made an excellent supper, we danced a part of the evening.
+
+We took leave of Mr. Dease on the 10th, well provided for the journey,
+and passing round Rainy Lake falls, and then traversing the lake
+itself, which I estimated to be forty miles long, we encamped at the
+entrance of a small river. On the next day we pursued our way, now
+thridding streams impeded with wild rice, which rendered our progress
+difficult, now traversing little lakes, now passing straits where we
+scarcely found water to float our canoes. On the 13th, we encamped near
+_Dog Portage (Portage des chiens_), where, from not having followed the
+advice of Mr. Dease, who had counselled us to take along a bag of
+pemican, we found ourselves absolutely without food.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+     Arrival at Fort William.--Description of the Fort.--News from the
+     River Columbia.
+
+
+Starving men are early-risers. We set out on the 14th before day, and
+effected the portage, which is long and difficult. At the foot of the
+rapid we found a sort of _restaurant_ or _cabaret_, kept by a man named
+_Boucher_. We treated the men to a little _eau de vie_, and breakfasted
+on some detestable sausages, poisoned with salt.
+
+After this wretched repast, we set out again, and passed toward noon,
+the _Mountain Portage_. Here the river _Kaministiquia_ flings itself
+over a rock of immense height, and forms a fall scarcely less curious to
+see than that of Niagara. Below, the succession of falls and rapids is
+constant, so that we made no fewer than thirty-six portages in the
+course of the day. Nevertheless we pursued our laborious way with good
+cheer, and without a murmur from our Canadian boatmen, who kept their
+spirits up by singing their _voyageur_ songs. At last, at about nine
+o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Fort William.
+
+Fort William is situated on Lake Superior, at the mouth of the
+_Kaministiquia_ river, about forty-five miles north of old _Grand
+Portage_. It was built in 1805, when the two rival Canadian companies
+were united, and was named in honor of Mr. (now the Honorable) William
+M'Gillivray, principal agent of the Northwest Company. The proprietors,
+perceiving that the old fort of _Grand Portage_ was on the territory
+claimed by the American government, resolved to demolish it and build
+another on the British territory. No site appeared more advantageous
+than the present for the purposes intended; the river is deep, of easy
+access, and offers a safe harbor for shipping. It is true they had to
+contend with all the difficulties consequent on a low and swampy soil;
+but by incredible labor and perseverance they succeeded in draining the
+marshes and reducing the loose and yielding soil to solidity.
+
+Fort William has really the appearance of a fort, with its palisade
+fifteen feet high, and that of a pretty village, from the number of
+edifices it encloses. In the middle of a spacious square rises a large
+building elegantly constructed, though of wood, with a long piazza or
+portico, raised about five feet from the ground, and surmounted by a
+balcony, extending along the whole front. In the centre is a saloon or
+hall, sixty feet in length by thirty in width, decorated with several
+pieces of painting, and some portraits of the leading partners. It is in
+this hall that the agents, partners, clerks, interpreters, and guides,
+take their meals together, at different tables. At each extremity of the
+apartment are two rooms; two of these are destined for the two principal
+agents; the other two to the steward and his department. The kitchen and
+servants' rooms are in the basement. On either side of this edifice, is
+another of the same extent, but of less elevation; they are each
+divided by a corridor running through its length, and contain each, a
+dozen pretty bed-rooms. One is destined for the wintering partners, the
+other for the clerks. On the east of the square is another building
+similar to the last two, and intended for the same use, and a warehouse
+where the furs are inspected and repacked for shipment. In the rear of
+these, are the lodging-house of the guides, another fur-warehouse, and
+finally, a powder magazine. The last is of stone, and has a roof covered
+with tin. At the angle is a sort of bastion, or look-out place,
+commanding a view of the lake. On the west side is seen a range of
+buildings, some of which serve for stores, and others for workshops;
+there is one for the equipment of the men, another for the fitting out
+of the canoes, one for the retail of goods, another where they sell
+liquors, bread, pork, butter, &c., and where a treat is given to the
+travellers who arrive. This consists in a white loaf, half a pound of
+butter, and a gill of rum. The _voyageurs_ give this tavern the name of
+_Cantino salope_. Behind all this is another range, where we find the
+counting-house, a fine square building, and well-lighted; another
+storehouse of stone, tin-roofed; and a _jail_, not less necessary than
+the rest. The _voyageurs_ give it the name of _pot au beurre_--the
+butter-tub. Beyond these we discover the shops of the carpenter, the
+cooper, the tinsmith, the blacksmith, &c.; and spacious yards and sheds
+for the shelter, reparation, and construction of canoes. Near the gate
+of the fort, which is on the south, are the quarters of the physician,
+and those of the chief clerk. Over the gate is a guard-house.
+
+As the river is deep at its entrance, the company has had a wharf
+constructed, extending the whole length of the fort, for the discharge
+of the vessels which it keeps on Lake Superior, whether to transport its
+furs from Fort William to the _Saut Ste. Marie_, or merchandise and
+provisions from _Saut Ste. Marie_ to Fort William. The land behind the
+fort and on both sides of it, is cleared and under tillage. We saw
+barley, peas, and oats, which had a very fine appearance. At the end of
+the clearing is the burying-ground. There are also, on the opposite bank
+of the river, a certain number of log-houses, all inhabited by old
+Canadian _voyageurs_, worn out in the service of the company, without
+having enriched themselves. Married to women of the country, and
+incumbered with large families of half-breed children, these men prefer
+to cultivate a little Indian corn and potatoes, and to fish, for a
+subsistence, rather than return to their native districts, to give their
+relatives and former acquaintance certain proofs of their misconduct or
+their imprudence.
+
+Fort William is the grand depôt of the Northwest Company for their
+interior posts, and the general _rendezvous_ of the partners. The agents
+from Montreal and the wintering partners assemble here every summer, to
+receive the returns of the respective outfits, prepare for the
+operations of the ensuing season, and discuss the general interests of
+their association. The greater part of them were assembled at the time
+of our arrival. The wintering hands who are to return with their
+employers, pass also a great part of the summer here; they form a great
+encampment on the west side of the fort, outside the palisades. Those
+who engage at Montreal to go no further than Fort William or _Rainy
+lake_, and who do not _winter_, occupy yet another space, on the east
+side. The winterers, or _hivernants_, give to these last the name of
+_mangeurs de lard_, or pork-eaters. They are also called
+_comers-and-goers_. One perceives an astonishing difference between
+these two camps, which are composed sometimes of three or four hundred
+men each; that of the pork-eaters is always dirty and disorderly, while
+that of the winterers is clean and neat.
+
+To clear its land and improve its property, the company inserts a clause
+in the engagement of all who enter its service as canoe-men, that they
+shall work for a certain number of days during their stay at Fort
+William. It is thus that it has cleared and drained the environs of the
+fort, and has erected so many fine buildings. But when a hand has once
+worked the stipulated number of days, he is for ever after exempt, even
+if he remain in the service twenty or thirty years, and should come down
+to the fort every summer.
+
+They received us very courteously at Fort William, and I perceived by
+the reception given to myself in particular, that thanks to the Chinook
+dialect of which I was sufficiently master, they would not have asked
+better than to give me employment, on advantageous terms. But I felt a
+great deal more eagerness to arrive in Montreal, than desire to return
+to the River Columbia.
+
+A few days after we reached Fort William, Mr. Keith made his appearance
+there from Fort George, or Astoria, with the news of the arrival of the
+"Isaac Todd" in the Columbia river. This vessel, which was a dull
+sailer, had been kept back a long time by contrary winds in doubling
+Cape Horn, and had never been able to rejoin the vessels-of-war, her
+consorts, from which she was then separated. When she reached the
+_rendezvous_ at the island of Juan Fernandez, finding that the three
+ships-of-war had sailed, the captain and passengers, as they were short
+of provisions, determined to range the coast. Entering the harbor of
+_Monterey_,[AI] on the coast of California, in order to obtain
+provisions, they learned that there was an English vessel-of-war in
+distress, in the bay of _San Francisco_.[AJ] They repaired thither
+accordingly, and found, to their great surprise, that it was the sloop
+_Raccoon_. This vessel, in getting out of the River Columbia, had
+touched on the bar, with such violence, that a part of her false keel
+was carried away; and she had with difficulty made San Francisco, with
+seven feet of water in the hold, although her crew had been constantly
+at the pumps. Captain Black, finding it impossible to repair his ship,
+had decided to abandon her, and to cross the continent to the Gulf of
+Mexico, thence to reach some of the British West India islands. However,
+on the arrival of the Isaac Todd, means were found to careen the vessel
+and repair the damage. The Isaac Todd then pursued her voyage and
+entered the Columbia on the 17th of April, thirteen months after her
+departure from England.
+
+[Footnote AI: A Spanish mission or presidency, in about the 36th degree
+of latitude.]
+
+[Footnote AJ: Another Spanish presidency, in about the 38th degree of
+latitude, and the first European establishment to be met with south of
+the Columbia. [These now obsolete notes are interesting as indicative of
+the period when they were written.--ED.]]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+     Departure from Fort William.--Navigation on Lake
+     Superior.--Michipicoton Bay.--Meeting a Canoe.--Batchawainon
+     Bay.--Arrival at Saut Ste Marie.--Occurrences
+     there.--Departure.--Lake Huron.--French River.--Lake
+     Nipissing.--Ottawa River.--Kettle Falls.--Rideau
+     River.--Long-Saut.--Arrival in Montreal--Conclusion.
+
+
+On the 20th of July, in the evening, Mr. D. Stuart notified me that he
+should start the next morning for Montreal, in a light canoe. I
+immediately wrote to my relatives: but the next morning Mr. Stuart told
+me that I was to be myself the bearer of my letters, by embarking with
+him. I got ready my effects, and toward evening we quitted Fort William,
+with fourteen stout _voyageurs_ to man our large canoe, and were soon
+floating on the bosom of the largest body of fresh water on the surface
+of the globe. We counted six passengers, namely, Messrs. D. Stuart, D.
+M'Kenzie, J. M'Donald, J. Clarke, myself, and a little girl of eight or
+nine years, who came from Kildonan, on Red river. We passed the first
+night on one of the islands in _Thunder bay_, so named on account of the
+frequent storms, accompanied with lightning and thunder, which burst
+over it at certain seasons of the year. On the 22d and 23d, we continued
+to range the southern coast of Lake Superior. The navigation of this
+superb lake would be extremely agreeable but for the thick fogs which
+reign during a part of the day, and do not permit a rapid progress. On
+the 24th, we dined at a small trading establishment called _Le Pic_,
+where we had excellent fish.
+
+On the 26th, we crossed _Michipicoton bay_, which, at its entrance, may
+be nine miles wide, and twenty fathoms deep. As we were nearing the
+eastern point, we met a small canoe, having on board Captain M'Cargo,
+and the crew of one of the schooners owned by the company. Mr. M'Cargo
+informed us that he had just escaped from _Saut Ste. Marie_, whither the
+Americans had sent a detachment of one hundred and fifty men; and that
+having been obliged to abandon his schooner, he had set fire to her. In
+consequence of this news it was resolved that the canoe on which we were
+proceeding, should return to Fort William. I embarked, with Mr. Stuart
+and two men, in Captain M'Cargo's canoe, while he and his crew took our
+places. In the haste and confusion of this exchange, which was made on
+the lake, they gave us a ham, a little tea and sugar, and a bag
+containing about twenty-five pounds of flour, but forgot entirely a
+kettle, knives, forks, and so on, all articles which Mr. M'Cargo had not
+time to take when he left _Saut Ste. Marie_. We subsisted miserably in
+consequence for two days and a half that we continued to coast the lake
+before reaching any post. We moistened in the bag a little flour, and
+having kneaded it, made cakes, which we baked on flat stones by our camp
+fire.
+
+On the 29th, we reached Batchawainon, where we found some women, who
+prepared us food and received us well. It is a poor little post,
+situated at the bottom of a sandy cove, which offers nothing agreeable
+to the eye. Mr. Frederic Goedike, who resided here, was gone to see what
+had taken place at Saut Ste. Marie. He returned the next day, and told
+us that the Americans had come, with a force of one hundred and fifty
+men, under the command of Major Holmes; and that after having pillaged
+that they all considered worth taking, of the property of the N.W.
+Company and that of a Mr. Johnston, they had set fire to the houses,
+warehouses, &c., belonging to the company and to that gentleman, and
+retired, without molesting any other person.[AK] Our canoe arrived from
+Fort William in the evening, with that of Mr. M'Gillivray; and on the
+morrow we all repaired to Saut Ste. Marie, where we saw the ruins which
+the enemy had left. The houses, stores, and saw-mills of the company
+were still smoking.
+
+[Footnote AK: The N.W. Company having raised a regiment composed of
+their own servants, and known as the _voyageur corps_, and having also
+instigated to war, and armed, the Indian tribes, over which they had
+influence, had brought on themselves this act of retaliation. Mr.
+Johnston also had engaged actively in the war against the United
+States.]
+
+The schooner was at the foot of the rapids; the Americans had run her
+down, but she grounded on a ledge of rocks, whence they could not
+dislodge her, and so they had burnt her to the water's edge.
+
+_Le Saut de Ste. Marie_, or as it is shortly called, _Saut Ste. Marie_,
+is a rapid at the outlet of Lake Superior, and may be five hundred or
+six hundred yards wide; its length may be estimated at three quarters of
+a mile, and the descent of the water at about twenty feet. At the lower
+extremity the river widens to about a mile, and here there are a certain
+number of houses. The north bank belongs to Great Britain; the southern
+to the United States. It was on the American side that Mr. Johnston
+lived. Before the war he was collector of the port for the American
+government. On the same side resided a Mr. Nolin, with his family,
+consisting of three half-breed boys and as many girls, one of whom was
+passably pretty. He was an old Indian trader, and his house and
+furniture showed signs of his former prosperity. On the British side we
+found Mr. Charles Ermatinger, who had a pretty establishment: he dwelt
+temporarily in a house that belonged to Nolin, but he was building
+another of stone, very elegant, and had just finished a grist mill. He
+thought that the last would lead the inhabitants to sow more grain than
+they did. These inhabitants are principally old Canadian boatmen,
+married to half-breed or Indian women. The fish afford them subsistence
+during the greater part of the year, and provided they secure potatoes
+enough to carry them through the remainder, they are content. It is to
+be regretted that these people are not more industrious, for the land is
+very fertile.
+
+On the 1st of August, an express was sent to _Michilimackinac_
+(Mackinaw) to inform the commandant thereof what had happened at _Saut
+Ste. Marie_. While expecting the return of the messenger, we put
+ourselves in a state of defence, in case that by chance the Americans
+should make another irruption. The thing was not improbable, for
+according to some expressions which fell from one of their number who
+spoke French, their objects was to capture the furs of the Northwest
+Company, which were expected to arrive shortly from the interior. We
+invited some Indians, who were camped on _Pine Point_, at some distance
+from the _Saut_, to help us in case of need; which they promised to do.
+Meanwhile we had no provisions, as everything had been carried off by
+the American forces, and were obliged to subsist on such brook trout as
+we could take with hook and line, and on wild raspberries.
+
+On the 4th, the express returned, without having been able to accomplish
+his mission: he had found the island of Mackinaw so completely blockaded
+by the enemy, that it was impossible to reach it, without running the
+greatest risk of being made prisoner.
+
+On the 12th, we heard distinctly the discharges of artillery which our
+people were firing off at Michilimackinac, although the distance was
+nearly sixty miles. We thought it was an attempt of the enemy to retake
+that post, but we afterward learned that it was only a royal salute in
+honor of the birthday of the prince regent. We learned, however, during
+our stay at Saut Ste. Marie, that the Americans had really made a
+descent upon the island, but were compelled to retire with a
+considerable loss.
+
+On the 19th, some of the partners arrived from Fort William, preceding
+the flotilla which was coming down richly laden with furs. They sent on
+Mr. Decoigne in a light canoe, with letters to Montreal, to order
+provisions to meet this brigade.
+
+On the 21st, the canoe on which I was a passenger, was sent to the mouth
+of _French_ river, to observe the motions of the enemy. The route lay
+between a range of low islands, and a shelvy beach, very monotonous and
+dreary. We remained at the entrance of the aforesaid river till the
+25th, when the fleet of loaded canoes, forty-seven in number, arrived
+there. The value of the furs which they carried could not be estimated
+at less than a million of dollars: an important prize for the Americans,
+if they could have laid their hands upon it. We were three hundred and
+thirty-five men, all well armed; a large camp was formed, with a
+breast-work of fur-packs, and we kept watch all night. The next morning
+we began to ascend French river, and were soon out of reach of the
+dreaded foe. French river flows from the N.E. and empties into Lake
+Huron, about one hundred and twenty miles from Saut Ste. Marie. We
+reached Lake Nipissing, of which it is the outlet, the same evening, and
+encamped. We crossed that lake on the 27th, made a number of portages,
+and encamped again, not far from _Mattawan_.
+
+On the 28th we entered, at an early hour, the river _Ottawa_, and
+encamped, in the evening, at the _Portage des deux Joachims_. This is a
+grand river, but obstructed by many falls and rapids on its way to join
+the St. Lawrence; which caused us to make many portages, and so we
+arrived on the 31st at _Kettle falls_.
+
+The rock which here arrests the course of the _Ottawa_, extends from
+shore to shore, and so completely cuts off the waters, that at the time
+we passed none was seen falling over, but sinking by subterranean
+channels, or fissures in the rock, it boiled up below, from seven or
+eight different openings, not unlike water in a huge caldron, whence the
+first explorers of the country gave it the name of _Chaudière_ or
+Caldron falls. Mr. P. Wright resided in this place, where he had a fine
+establishment and a great number of men employed in cultivating the
+land, and getting out lumber.
+
+We left the _Chaudières_ a little before sunset, and passed very soon
+the confluence of the _Rideau_ or _Curtain river_. This river, which
+casts itself into the Ottawa over a rock twenty-five by thirty feet
+high, is divided in the middle of the fall by a little island, which
+parts the waters into two white sheets, resembling a double curtain open
+in the middle and spreading out below. The _coup d'oeil_ is really
+picturesque; the rays of the setting sun, which struck the waters
+obliquely as we passed, heightened exceedingly their beauty, and
+rendered it worthy of a pencil more skilful than mine.
+
+We voyaged till midnight, when we stopped to let our men take a little
+repose. This rest was only for two hours. At sunrise on the 1st
+September, we reached _Long-Saut_, where, having procured guides, we
+passed that dangerous rapid, and set foot on shore near the
+dwelling-house of a Mr. M'Donell, who sent us milk and fruits for our
+breakfast. Toward noon we passed the lake of the Two Mountains, where I
+began to see the mountain of my native isle. About two o'clock, we
+passed the rapids of St. Ann.[AL] Soon after we came opposite _Saut St.
+Louis_ and the village of _Caughnawago_, passed that last rapid of so
+many, and landed at Montreal, a little before sunset.
+
+[Footnote AL: "Far-famed and so well described," adds Mr. Franchere, in
+his own translation, but I prefer to leave the expression in its
+original striking simplicity, as he wrote it before he had heard of
+MOORE. Every reader remembers:--
+
+     "Soon as the woods on shore grow dim,
+     We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn."
+
+     _Canadian Boatman's Song_.]
+
+I hastened to the paternal roof, where the family were not less
+surprised than overjoyed at beholding me. Not having heard of me, since
+I had sailed from New York, they had believed, in accordance with the
+common report, that I had been murdered by the savages, with Mr. M'Kay
+and the crew of the Tonquin: and certainly, it was by the goodness of
+Providence that I found myself thus safe and sound, in the midst of my
+relations and friends, at the end of a voyage accompanied by so many
+perils, and in which so many of my companions had met with an untimely
+death.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+     Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.--Correction
+     of Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.
+
+
+The last chapter closes the original French narrative of my travels
+around and across the continent, as published thirty-three years ago.
+The translation follows that narrative as exactly as possible, varying
+from it only in the correction of a few not very important errors of
+fact. It speaks of places and persons as I spoke of them then. I would
+not willingly lose the verisimilitude of this natural and unadorned
+description, in order to indulge in any new turns of style or more
+philosophical reflections.
+
+But since that period many changes have occurred in the scenes which I
+so long ago visited and described. Though they are well known, I may be
+pardoned for alluding to them.
+
+The natives of the Sandwich islands, who were in a state of paganism at
+that time, have since adopted a form of Christianity, have made
+considerable progress in imitating the civilization of Europe, and even,
+at this moment, begin to entertain the idea of annexation to the United
+States. It appears, however, that the real natives are rapidly dwindling
+away by the effects of their vices, which an exotic and ill-assimilated
+civilization has rather increased than diminished, and to which religion
+has not succeeded in applying a remedy.
+
+At the mouth of the Columbia, whole tribes, and among them, the
+_Clatsops_, have been swept away by disease. Here again, licentious
+habits universally diffused, spread a fatal disorder through the whole
+nation, and undermining the constitutions of all, left them an easy prey
+to the first contagion or epidemic sickness. But missionaries of various
+Christian sects have labored among the Indians of the Columbia also; not
+to speak of the missions of the Catholic Church, so well known by the
+narrative of Father De Smet and others; and numbers have been taught to
+cultivate the soil, and thus to provide against the famines to which
+they were formerly exposed from their dependence on the precarious
+resources of the chase; while others have received, in the faith of
+Christ, the true principle of national permanence, and a living germ of
+civilization, which may afterward be developed.
+
+Emigration has also carried to the Oregon the axe of the settler, as
+well as the canoe and pack of the fur-trader. The fertile valleys and
+prairies of the Willamet--once the resort of the deer, the elk, and the
+antelope, are now tilled by the industrious husbandman. Oregon City, so
+near old "Astoria," whose first log fort I saw and described, is now an
+Archiepiscopal see, and the capital of a territory, which must soon be a
+state of the Union.
+
+Of the regions east of the mountains described in my itinerary, little
+can be said in respect to improvement: they remain in the same wild
+state. The interest of the Hudson's Bay Company, as an association of
+fur-traders, is opposed to agricultural improvements, whose operation
+would be to drive off and extinguish the wild animals that furnish their
+commerce with its object. But on Lake Superior steamboats have
+supplanted the birch-bark canoe of the Indian and the fur-trader, and at
+Saut Ste. Marie, especially on the American side, there is now every
+sign of prosperity. How remote and wild was the region beyond, through
+which I passed, may be estimated by the fact that in thirty-eight years
+the onward-rolling wave of our population has but just reached its
+confines.
+
+Canada, although it has not kept pace with the United States, has yet
+wonderfully advanced in forty years. The valley of the Ottawa, that
+great artery of the St. Lawrence, where I thought it worth while to
+notice the residence of an enterprising farmer and lumber merchant, is
+now a populous district, well cultivated, and sprinkled with villages,
+towns, and cities.
+
+The reader, in perusing my first chapter, found a description of the
+city of New York in 1810, and of the neighboring village of Brooklyn.
+It would be superfluous to establish a comparison at this day. At that
+time, it will be observed, the mere breaking out of war between America
+and England was thought to involve the sacrifice of an American
+commercial establishment on the Pacific, on the ground of its supplies
+being necessarily cut off (it was supposed), and of the United States
+government being unable to protect it from hostile attack. At present it
+suffices to remark that while New York, then so inconsiderable a port,
+is now perhaps the third city in the world, the United States also, are,
+undoubtedly, a first-rate power, unassailable at home, and formidable
+abroad, to the greatest nations.
+
+As in my preface I alluded to Mr. Irving's "Astoria," as reflecting, in
+my opinion, unjustly, upon the young men engaged in the first expedition
+to the mouth of the Columbia, it may suffice here to observe, without
+entering into particulars, that my narrative, which I think answers for
+its own fidelity, clearly shows that some of them, at least did not want
+courage, activity, zeal for the interests of the company, while it
+existed, and patient endurance of hardship. And although it forms no
+part of the narrative or my voyage, yet as subsequent visits to the West
+and an intimate knowledge of St. Louis, enable me to correct Mr.
+Irving's poetical rather than accurate description of that place, I may
+well do it here. St. Louis now bids fair to rival ere long the "Queen of
+the West;" Mr. Irving describes her as a small trading place, where
+trappers, half-breeds, gay, frivolous Canadian boatmen, &c., &c.,
+congregated and revelled, with that lightness and buoyancy of spirit
+inherited from their French forefathers; the indolent Creole of St.
+Louis caring for little more than the enjoyment of the present hour; a
+motley population, half-civilized, half-barbarous, thrown, on his
+canvas, into one general, confused (I allow highly _picturesque_) mass,
+without respect of persons: but it is fair to say, with due homage to
+the talent of the sketcher, who has verged slightly on caricature in the
+use of that humor-loving pencil admired by all the world, that St. Louis
+even then contained its noble, industrious, and I may say, princely
+merchants; it could boast its _Chouteaus_, _Soulands_, _Céré_,
+_Chéniers_, _Vallées_, and _La Croix_, with other kindred spirits, whose
+descendants prove the worth of their sires by their own, and are now
+among the leading business men, as their fathers were the pioneers, of
+the flourishing St. Louis.
+
+With these remarks, which I make simply as an act of justice in
+connection with the general subject of the founding of "Astoria," but in
+which I mean to convey no imputation on the intentional fairness of the
+accomplished author to whom I have alluded, I take a respectful leave of
+my readers.
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.[AM]
+
+
+In Chapter XVII. I promised the reader to give him an account of the
+fate of some of the persons who left Astoria before, and after its sale
+or transfer to the British. I will now redeem that pledge.
+
+[Footnote AM: We have thought it best to give this Appendix, excepting
+some abbreviations rendered necessary to avoid repetition of what has
+been stated before, in Mr. Franchere's own words, particularly as a
+specimen of his own English style may be justly interesting to the
+reader.]
+
+Messrs. Ramsay Crooks, R. M'Lelland, and Robert Stuart, after enduring
+all sorts of fatigue, dangers and hair-breadth escapes with their
+lives--all which have been so graphically described by Washington Irving
+in his "Astoria," finally reached St. Louis and New York.
+
+Mr. Clapp went to the Marquesas Islands, where he entered into the
+service of his country in the capacity of Midshipman under Commodore
+Porter--made his escape from there in company with Lieutenant Gamble of
+the Marine corps, by directions of the Commodore, was captured by the
+British, landed at Buenos Ayres, and finally reached New York.
+
+D. M'Dougall, as a reward for betraying the trust reposed in him by Mr.
+Astor, was made a Partner of the Northwest Company, crossed the
+mountains, and died a miserable death at _Bas de la Rivière_, Winipeg.
+Donald M'Kenzie, his coadjutor, went back to the Columbia River, where
+he amassed a considerable fortune, with which he retired, and lived in
+Chautauque County in this state, where he died a few years since unknown
+and neglected:--he was a very selfish man, who cared for no one but
+himself.
+
+It remains only to speak of Messrs. J.C. Halsey, Russell, Farnham, and
+Alfred Seton, who, it will be remembered, embarked with Mr. Hunt on the
+"Pedlar," in Feb. 1814.
+
+Leaving the River about the 1st of April, they proceeded to the Russian
+establishment at Sitka, Norfolk Sound, where they fell in with two or
+three more American vessels, which had come to trade with the natives or
+to avoid the British cruisers. While there, a sail under British colors
+appeared, and Mr. Hunt sent Mr. Seton to ascertain who she was. She
+turned out to be the "Forester," Captain Pigott, a repeating signal ship
+and letter-of-marque, sent from England in company of a fleet intended
+for the South Seas. On further acquaintance with the captain, Mr. Seton
+(from whom I derive these particulars) learned a fact which has never
+before been published, and which will show the solicitude and
+perseverance of Mr. ASTOR. After despatching the "Lark" from New York,
+fearing that she might be intercepted by the British, he sent orders to
+his correspondent in England to purchase and fit out a British bottom,
+and despatch her to the Columbia to relieve the establishment.
+
+When Mr. Hunt learned this fact, he determined to leave Mr. Halsey at
+Sitka, and proceeding himself northward, landed Mr. Farnham on the coast
+of _Kamskatka_, to go over land with despatches for Mr. Astor. Mr.
+Farnham accomplished the journey, reached Hamburg, whence he sailed for
+the West Indies, and finally arrived at New York, having made the entire
+circuit of the globe.
+
+The "Pedlar" then sailed to the southeast, and soon reached the coast of
+California, which she approached to get a supply of provisions. Nearing
+one of the harbors, they descried a vessel at anchor inside, showing
+American colors. Hauling their wind, they soon came close to the
+stranger, which, to their surprise, turned out to be the Spanish
+corvette "Santa Barbara," which sent boats alongside the "Pedlar," and
+captured her, and kept possession of the prize for some two months,
+during which they dropped down to _San Blas_. Here Mr. Hunt proposed to
+Mr. Seton to cross the continent and reach the United States the best
+way he could. Mr. Seton, accordingly, went to the Isthmus of Darien,
+where he was detained several months by sickness, but finally reached
+Carthagena, where a British fleet was lying in the roads, to take off
+the English merchants, who in consequence of the revolutionary
+movements going on, sought shelter under their own flag. Here Mr. Seton,
+reduced to the last stage of destitution and squalor, boldly applied to
+Captain Bentham, the commander of the squadron, who, finding him to be a
+gentleman, offered him every needful assistance, gave him a berth in his
+own cabin, and finally landed him safely on the Island of Jamaica,
+whence he, too, found his way to New York.
+
+Of all those engaged in the expedition there are now but four
+survivors--Ramsay Crooks, Esq. the late President of the American Fur
+Company; Alfred Seton, Esq., Vice-president of the Sun Mutual Insurance
+Company; both of New York city; Benjamin Pillet of Canada; and the
+author, living also in New York. All the rest have paid the debt of
+nature, but their names are recorded in the foregoing pages.
+
+Notwithstanding the illiberal remarks made by Captain Thorn on the
+persons who were on board the ill-fated Tonquin, and reproduced by Mr.
+Irving in his "Astoria"--these young men who were represented as "Bar
+keepers or Billiard markers, most of whom had fled from Justice, &c."--I
+feel it a duty to say that they were for the most part, of good
+parentage, liberal education and every way were qualified to discharge
+the duties of their respective stations. The remarks on the general
+character of the voyageurs employed as boat-men and Mechanics, and the
+attempt to cast ridicule on their "Braggart and swaggering manners" come
+with a bad grace from the author of "Astoria," when we consider that in
+that very work Mr. Irving is compelled to admit their indomitable
+energy, their fidelity to their employers, and their cheerfulness under
+the most trying circumstances in which men can be placed.
+
+With respect to Captain Thorn, I must confess that though a stern
+commander and an irritable man, he paid the strictest attention to the
+health of his crew. His complaints of the squalid appearance of the
+Canadians and mechanics who were on board, can be abated of their force
+by giving a description of the accommodation of these people. The
+Tonquin was a small ship; its forecastle was destined for the crew
+performing duty before the mast. The room allotted for the accommodation
+of the twenty men destined for the establishment, was abaft the
+forecastle; a bulk-head had been let across, and a door led from the
+forecastle into a dark, unventilated, unwholesome place, where they were
+all heaped together, without means of locomotion, and consequently
+deprived of that exercise of the body so necessary to health. Add to
+that, we had no physician on board. In view of these facts, can the
+complaints of the gallant Captain be sustained? Of course Mr. Irving was
+ignorant of these circumstances, as well as of many others which he
+might have known, had some one suggested to him to ask a few questions
+of persons who were within his reach at the time of his publication. I
+have (I need scarcely say) no personal animosity against the unfortunate
+Captain; he always treated me, individually, as well as I could expect;
+and if, in the course of my narrative, I have been severe on his
+actions, I was impelled by a sense of justice to my friends on board,
+as well as by the circumstance that such explanations of his general
+deportment were requisite to convey the historical truth to my readers.
+
+The idea of a conspiracy against him on board is so absurd that it
+really does not deserve notice. The threat, or rather the proposal made
+to him by Mr. M'Kay, in the following words--"if you say fight, fight it
+is"--originated in a case where one of the sailors had maltreated a
+Canadian lad, who came to complain to Mr. M'Kay. The captain would not
+interpose his authority, and said in my presence, "Let them fight out
+their own battles:"--it was upon that answer that Mr. M'Kay gave vent to
+the expression quoted above. I might go on with a long list of
+inaccuracies, more or less grave or trivial, in the beautifully written
+work of Mr. Irving, but it would be tedious to go through the whole of
+them. The few remarks to which I have given place above, will suffice to
+prove that the assertion made in the preface was not unwarranted. It is
+far from my intention to enter the lists with a man of the literary
+merit and reputation of Mr. Irving, but as a narrator of events of which
+I was an EYEWITNESS, I felt bound to tell the truth, although that truth
+might impugn the historical accuracy of a work which ranks as a classic
+in the language. At the same time I entirely exonerate Mr. Irving from
+any intention of prejudicing the minds of his readers, as he doubtless
+had only in view to support the character of his friend: that sentiment
+is worthy of a generous heart, but it should not be gratified, nor would
+he wish to gratify it, I am sure, at the expense of the character of
+others.
+
+
+
+
+NOTE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+     Perhaps even contrary to the wish of Mr. Franchere, I have left the
+     above almost word for word as he wrote it. It is a part of the
+     history of the affairs related as well in Mr. Irving's ASTORIA as
+     in the present volume, that the reclamations of one of the clerks
+     on that famous and unfortunate voyage of the Tonquin, against the
+     disparaging description of himself and his colleagues given in the
+     former work, should be fairly recorded. At the same time, I can not
+     help stating my own impression that a natural susceptibility,
+     roused by those slighting remarks from Captain Thorn's
+     correspondence, to which Mr. Irving as an historian gives currency,
+     has somewhat blinded my excellent friend to the tone of banter, so
+     characteristic of the chronicler of the Knickerbockers, in which
+     all these particulars are given, more as traits of the character
+     of the stern old sea-captain, with his hearty contempt for
+     land-lubbers and literary clerks, than as a dependable account of
+     the persons on board his ship, some of whom might have been, and as
+     we see by the present work, were, in fact, very meritorious
+     characters, for whose literary turn, and faithful journalizing
+     (which seems to have especially provoked the captain's wrath), now
+     at the end of more than forty years, we have so much reason to be
+     thankful. Certainly Mr. Irving himself, who has drawn frequently on
+     Mr. Franchere's narrative, could not, from his well-known taste in
+     such matters, be insensible to the Defoe-like simplicity thereof,
+     nor to the picturesque descriptions, worthy of a professional pen,
+     with which it is sprinkled.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
+
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific
+
+Author: Gabriel Franchere
+
+Release Date: May 27, 2005 [EBook #15911]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Lybarger and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="bbox">
+<p>[Transcriber's Note: Because this is a personal narrative,
+inconsistencies in spelling, hyphenation, capitalization, and
+italicization have been preserved in cases where it is not clearly an
+error from the original printing.]</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/illus01.jpg"><img src="./images/illus01_th.jpg" alt="Astoria, as it was in 1813." title="Astoria, as it was in 1813." /></a></p>
+<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Astoria, as it was in 1813.</span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1>NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA</h1>
+
+<h2>IN THE YEARS 1811, 1812, 1813, AND 1814</h2>
+
+<h3>OR</h3>
+
+<h2>THE FIRST AMERICAN SETTLEMENT ON THE PACIFIC</h2>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>BY GABRIEL FRANCHERE</h3>
+
+<h3>TRANSLATED AND EDITED BY J.V. HUNTINGTON</h3>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h6>REDFIELD<br />
+110 AND 112 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK<br />
+1854.</h6>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h6>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854,<br />
+BY J.S. REDFIELD,<br />
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and
+for the Southern District of New York.</h6>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>In 1846, when the boundary question (that of the Oregon Territory in
+particular) was at its height, the Hon. THOMAS H. BENTON delivered in
+the United States Senate a decisive speech, of which the following is an
+extract:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Now for the proof of all I have said. I happen to have in my possession
+the book of all others, which gives the fullest and most authentic
+details on all the points I have mentioned&mdash;a book written at a time,
+and under circumstances, when the author (himself a British subject and
+familiar on the Columbia) had no more idea that the British would lay
+claim to that river, than Mr. Harmon, the American writer whom I
+quoted, ever thought of our claiming New Caledonia. It is the work of
+Mr. FRANCHERE, a gentleman of Montreal, with whom I have the pleasure to
+be personally acquainted, and one of those employed by Mr. ASTOR in
+founding his colony. He was at the founding of ASTORIA, at its sale to
+the Northwest Company, saw the place seized as a British conquest, and
+continued there after its seizure. He wrote in French: his work has not
+been done into English, though it well deserves it; and I read from the
+French text. He gives a brief and true account of the discovery of the
+Columbia.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I felt justly proud of this notice of my unpretending work, especially
+that the latter should have contributed, as it did, to the amicable
+settlement of the then pending difficulties. I have flattered myself
+ever since, that it belonged to the historical literature of the great
+country, which by adoption has become mine.</p>
+
+<p>The re-perusal of &quot;Astoria&quot; by WASHINGTON IRVING (1836) inspired me with
+an additional motive for giving my book in an English dress. Without
+disparagement to Mr. IRVING'S literary, fame, I may venture to say that
+I found in his work inaccuracies, misstatements (unintentional of
+course), and a want of chronological order, which struck forcibly one so
+familiar with the events themselves. I thought I could show&mdash;or rather
+that my simple narration, of itself, plainly discovered&mdash;that some of
+the young men embarked in that expedition (which founded our Pacific
+empire), did not merit the ridicule and contempt which Captain THORN
+attempted to throw upon them, and which perhaps, through the genius of
+Mr. IRVING, might otherwise remain as a lasting stigma on their
+characters.</p>
+
+<p>But the consideration which, before all others, prompts me to offer this
+narrative to the American reading public, is my desire to place before
+them, therein, a simple and connected account (which at this time ought
+to be interesting), of the early settlement of the Oregon Territory by
+one of our adopted citizens, the enterprising merchant JOHN JACOB ASTOR.
+The importance of a vast territory, which at no distant day may add two
+more bright stars to our national banner, is a guarantee that my humble
+effort will be appreciated.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3>NOTE BY THE EDITOR.</h3>
+
+<p>It has been the editor's wish to let Mr. Franchere speak for himself. To
+preserve in the translation the Defoe-like simplicity of the original
+narrative of the young French Canadian, has been his chief care. Having
+read many narratives of travel and adventure in our northwestern
+wilderness, he may be permitted to say that he has met with none that
+gives a more vivid and picturesque description of it, or in which the
+personal adventures of the narrator, and the varying fortunes of a great
+enterprise, mingle more happily, and one may say, more dramatically,
+with the itinerary. The clerkly minuteness of the details is not
+without its charm either, and their fidelity speaks for itself. Take it
+altogether, it must be regarded as a fragment of our colonial history
+saved from oblivion; it fills up a vacuity which Mr. IRVING'S classic
+work does not quite supply; it is, in fact, the only account by an
+eye-witness and a participator in the enterprise, of the first attempt
+to form a settlement on the Pacific under the stars and stripes.</p>
+
+<p>The editor has thought it would be interesting to add Mr. Franchere's
+Preface to the original French edition, which will be found on the next
+page.</p>
+
+<p>BALTIMORE, <i>February 6, 1854</i>.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PREFACE TO THE FRENCH EDITION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>When I was writing my journal on the vessel which carried me to the
+northwest coast of North America, or in the wild regions of this
+continent, I was far from thinking that it would be placed one day
+before the public eye. I had no other end in writing, but to procure to
+my family and my friends a more exact and more connected detail of what
+I had seen or learned in the course of my travels, than it would have
+been possible for me to give them in a <i>viva voce</i> narration. Since my
+return to my native city, my manuscript has passed into various hands
+and has been read by different persons: several of my friends
+immediately advised me to print it; but it is only quite lately that I
+have allowed myself to be persuaded, that without being a learned
+naturalist, a skilful geographer, or a profound moralist, a traveller
+may yet interest by the faithful and succinct account of the situations
+in which he has found himself, the adventures which have happened to
+him, and the incidents of which he has been a witness; that if a simple
+ingenuous narrative, stripped of the merit of science and the graces of
+diction, must needs be less enjoyed by the man of letters or by the
+<i>savant</i>, it would have, in compensation, the advantage of being at the
+level of a greater number of readers; in fine, that the desire of
+affording an entertainment to his countrymen, according to his capacity,
+and without any mixture of the author's vanity or of pecuniary interest,
+would be a well-founded title to their indulgence. Whether I have done
+well or ill in yielding to these suggestions, which I am bound to regard
+as those of friendship, or of good-will, it belongs to the impartial and
+disinterested reader, to decide.</p>
+
+<p>MONTREAL, 1819.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<hr style="width: 20%;" />
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Montreal.&mdash;Arrival in New York.&mdash;Description of
+that City.&mdash;Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from New York.&mdash;Reflections of the Author.&mdash;Navigation,
+falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at the Falkland Isles.&mdash;Landing.&mdash;Perilous Situation of the
+Author and some of his Companions.&mdash;Portrait of Captain Thorn.&mdash;Cape
+Horn.&mdash;Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Accident.&mdash;View of the Coast.&mdash;Attempted Visit of the Natives.&mdash;Their
+Industry.&mdash;Bay of Karaka-koua.&mdash;Landing on the Island.&mdash;John Young,
+Governor of Owahee.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Bay of Ohetity.&mdash;Tamehameha, King of the Island.&mdash;His Visit to the
+Ship.&mdash;His Capital.&mdash;His Naval Force.&mdash;His Authority.&mdash;Productions of
+the Country.&mdash;Manners and Customs.&mdash;Reflections.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Wahoo.&mdash;Storm.&mdash;Arrival at the Mouth of the
+Columbia.&mdash;Reckless Order of the Captain.&mdash;Difficulty of the
+Entrance.&mdash;Perilous Situation of the Ship.&mdash;Unhappy Fate of a Part
+of the Crew and People of the Expedition.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.&mdash;Obsequies
+of a Sandwich-Islander.&mdash;First Steps in the Formation of the intended
+Establishment.&mdash;New Alarm.&mdash;Encampment.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Voyage up the River.&mdash;Description of the Country.&mdash;Meeting with
+strange Indians.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure of the Tonquin.&mdash;Indian Messengers.&mdash;Project of an Expedition
+to the Interior.&mdash;Arrival of Mr. Daniel Thompson.&mdash;Departure of the
+Expedition.&mdash;Designs upon us by the Natives.&mdash;Rumors of the Destruction
+of the Tonquin.&mdash;Scarcity of Provisions.&mdash;Narrative of a strange
+Indian.&mdash;Duplicity and Cunning of Comcomly.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Occupation at Astoria.&mdash;Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+Expedition to the Interior.&mdash;New Expedition.&mdash;Excursion in Search
+of three Deserters.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.&mdash;Occupations at
+Astoria.&mdash;Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+M'Lellan.&mdash;Account of their Journey.&mdash;Arrival of Mr. Wilson P. Hunt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER XII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of the Ship Beaver.&mdash;Unexpected Return of Messrs. D. Stuart,
+B. Stuart, M'Lelland, &amp;c.&mdash;Cause of that Return.&mdash;Ship discharging.&mdash;New
+Expeditions.&mdash;Hostile Attitude of the Natives.&mdash;Departure of the
+Beaver.&mdash;Journeys of the Author.&mdash;His Occupations at the Establishment.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER XIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Uneasiness respecting the &quot;Beaver.&quot;&mdash;News of the Declaration of
+War between Great Britain and the United States.&mdash;Consequences
+of  that Intelligence.&mdash;Different Occurrences.&mdash;Arrival of two
+Canoes of the Northwest Company.&mdash;Preparations for abandoning the
+Country.&mdash;Postponement of Departure.&mdash;Arrangement-with Mr. J.G. M'Tavish.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><b>CHAPTER XIV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of the Ship &quot;Albatross.&quot;&mdash;Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+the Beaver at Astoria.&mdash;Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a Former
+Occasion.&mdash;Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the Resolution of
+the Partners.&mdash;His Departure.&mdash;Narrative of the Destruction of the
+Tonquin.&mdash;Causes of that Disaster.&mdash;Reflections.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><b>CHAPTER XV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.&mdash;Sale of the
+Establishment at Astoria to that Company.&mdash;Canadian News.&mdash;Arrival of
+the British Sloop-of-War &quot;Raccoon.&quot;&mdash;Accident on Board that Vessel.&mdash;The
+Captain takes Formal Possession of Astoria.&mdash;Surprise and Discontent of
+the Officers And Crew.&mdash;Departure of the &quot;Raccoon.&quot;</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><b>CHAPTER XVI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Expeditions to the Interior.&mdash;Return of Messrs. John Stuart and
+D. M'Kenzie.&mdash;Theft committed by the Natives.&mdash;War Party against
+the Thieves.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><b>CHAPTER XVII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Description of Tongue Point.&mdash;A Trip to the <i>Willamet</i>.&mdash;Arrival
+of W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.&mdash;Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+Lark.&mdash;Preparations for crossing the Continent.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><b>CHAPTER XVIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Situation of the Columbia River.&mdash;Qualities of its Soil.&mdash;Climate,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><b>CHAPTER XIX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Manners, Customs, Occupations, &amp;c., of the Natives on the River Columbia.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><b>CHAPTER XX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.&mdash;Their Wars.&mdash;Their
+Marriages.&mdash;Medicine Men.&mdash;Funeral Ceremonies.&mdash;Religious
+Notions.&mdash;Language.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><b>CHAPTER XXI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Astoria Or Fort George.&mdash;Accident.&mdash;Passage of
+the Dalles or Narrows.&mdash;Great Columbian Desert.&mdash;Aspect of the
+Country.&mdash;Wallawalla and Sha-aptin Rivers.&mdash;Rattlesnakes.&mdash;Some
+Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><b>CHAPTER XXII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.&mdash;Her Narrative.&mdash;Reflections of
+the Author.&mdash;Priest's Rapid.&mdash;River Okenakan.&mdash;Kettle Falls.&mdash;Pine
+Moss.&mdash;Scarcity of Food.&mdash;Rivers, Lakes, &amp;c.&mdash;Accident.&mdash;A
+Rencontre.&mdash;First View of the Rocky Mountains.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><b>CHAPTER XXIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Course of the Columbian River.&mdash;Canoe River.&mdash;Foot-march toward the
+Rocky Mountains.&mdash;Passage of the Mountains.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><b>CHAPTER XXIV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.&mdash;Description of this
+Post.&mdash;Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.&mdash;Mountain Sheep,
+&amp;c.&mdash;Continuation of the Journey.&mdash;Unhappy Accident.&mdash;Reflections.&mdash;News
+from Canada.&mdash;Hunter's Lodge.&mdash;Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><b>CHAPTER XXV.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Red Deer Lake.&mdash;Antoine D&eacute;jarlais.&mdash;Beaver River.&mdash;N. Nadeau.&mdash;Moose
+River.&mdash;Bridge Lake.&mdash;Saskatchawine River.&mdash;Fort Vermilion.&mdash;Mr.
+Hallet.&mdash;Trading-Houses.&mdash;Beautiful Country.&mdash;Reflections.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXVI.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Fort Mont&eacute;e.&mdash;Cumberland House.&mdash;Lake Bourbon.&mdash;Great Winipeg
+Rapids.&mdash;Lake Winipeg.&mdash;Trading-House.&mdash;Lake of the Woods.&mdash;Rainy
+Lake House, &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXVII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at Fort William.&mdash;Description of that Post&mdash;News from the
+River Columbia.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII"><b>CHAPTER XXVIII.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Fort William.&mdash;Navigation on Lake Superior.&mdash;Michipicoton
+Bay.&mdash;Meeting a Canoe.&mdash;Batchawainon Bay.&mdash;Arrival at Saut Ste.
+Marie.&mdash;Occurrences there.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;Lake Huron.&mdash;French
+River.&mdash;Lake Nipissing.&mdash;Ottawa River.&mdash;Kettle Falls.&mdash;Rideau
+River.&mdash;Long-Saut.&mdash;Arrival in Montreal.&mdash;Conclusion.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX"><b>CHAPTER XXIX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.&mdash;Correction of
+Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.</p></div>
+
+
+<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX.</b></a></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Mr. Seton's Adventures.&mdash;Survivors of the Expedition in
+1851.&mdash;Author's Protest against some Expressions in Mr. Irving's
+&quot;Astoria.&quot;&mdash;Editor's Note.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Since the independence of the United States of America, the merchants of
+that industrious and enterprising nation have carried on an extremely
+advantageous commerce on the northwest coast of this continent. In the
+course of their voyages they have made a great number of discoveries
+which they have not thought proper to make public; no doubt to avoid
+competition in a lucrative business.</p>
+
+<p>In 1792, Captain Gray, commanding the ship Columbia of Boston,
+discovered in latitude 46&deg; 19&quot; north, the entrance of a great bay on the
+Pacific coast. He sailed into it, and having perceived that it was the
+outlet or estuary of a large river, by the fresh water which he found
+at a little distance from the entrance, he continued his course upward
+some eighteen miles, and dropped anchor on the left bank, at the opening
+of a deep bay. There he made a map or rough sketch of what he had seen
+of this river (accompanied by a written description of the soundings,
+bearings, &amp;c.); and having finished his traffic with the natives (the
+object of his voyage to these parts), he put out to sea, and soon after
+fell in with Captain Vancouver, who was cruising by order of the British
+government, to seek new discoveries. Mr. Gray acquainted him with the
+one he had just made, and even gave him a copy of the chart he had drawn
+up. Vancouver, who had just driven off a colony of Spaniards established
+on the coast, under the command of Se&ntilde;or Quadra (England and Spain being
+then at war), despatched his first-lieutenant Broughton, who ascended
+the river in boats some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and fifty
+miles, took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic
+majesty, giving the river the name of the <i>Columbia</i>, and to the bay
+where the American captain stopped, that of <i>Gray's bay</i>. Since that
+period the country had been seldom visited (till 1811), and chiefly by
+American ships.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Alexander McKenzie, in his second overland voyage, tried to reach
+the western ocean by the Columbia river, and thought he had succeeded
+when he came out six degrees farther north, at the bottom of Puget's
+sound, by another river.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1" /><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> In 1805, the American government sent
+Captains Lewis and Clark, with about thirty men, including some Kentucky
+hunters, on an overland journey to the mouth of the Columbia. They
+ascended the Missouri, crossed the mountains at the source of that
+river, and following the course of the Columbia, reached the shores of
+the Pacific, where they were forced to winter. The report which they
+made of their expedition to the United States government created a
+lively sensation.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2" /><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p>
+
+<p>Mr. John Jacob Astor, a New York merchant, who conducted almost alone
+the trade in furs south of the great lakes Huron and Superior, and who
+had acquired by that commerce a prodigious fortune, thought to augment
+it by forming on the banks of the Columbia an establishment of which the
+principal or supply factory should be at the mouth of that river. He
+communicated his views to the agents of the Northwest Company; he was
+even desirous of forming the proposed establishment in concert with
+them; but after some negotiations, the inland or wintering partners of
+that association of fur-traders having rejected the plan, Mr. Astor
+determined to make the attempt alone. He needed for the success of his
+enterprise, men long versed in the Indian trade, and he soon found them.
+Mr. Alexander M'Kay (the same who had accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie
+in his travels overland), a bold and enterprising man, left the
+Northwest Company to join him; and soon after, Messrs Duncan M'Dougal
+and Donald M'Kenzie (also in the service of the company) and Messrs.
+David Stuart and Robert Stuart, all of Canada, did the same. At length,
+in the winter of 1810, a Mr. Wilson Price Hunt of St. Louis, on the
+Mississippi, having also joined them, they determined that the
+expedition should be set on foot in the following spring.</p>
+
+<p>It was in the course of that winter that one of my friends made me
+acquainted in confidence with the plan of these gentlemen, under the
+injunction of strictest secrecy. The desire of seeing strange countries,
+joined to that of acquiring a fortune, determined me to solicit
+employment of the new association; on the 20th of May I had an interview
+with Mr. A. M'Kay, with whom the preliminaries were arranged; and on the
+24th of the same month I signed an agreement as an apprenticed clerk for
+the term of five years.</p>
+
+<p>When the associates had engaged a sufficient number of Canadian boatmen,
+they equipped a bark canoe under charge of Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie,
+with a Mr. Perrault as clerk, and a crew of fourteen men. These
+gentlemen were to proceed to Mackinaw, and thence to St. Louis, hiring
+on the way as many men as they could to man the canoes, in which, from
+the last-mentioned port, they were to ascend the Missouri to its source,
+and there diverging from the route followed by Lewis and Clark, reach
+the mouth of the Columbia to form a junction with another party, who
+were to go round by way of Cape Horn. In the course of my narrative I
+shall have occasion to speak of the success of both these expeditions.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h1>NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA</h1>
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Montreal.&mdash;Arrival in New York.&mdash;Description of that
+     City.&mdash;Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>We remained in Montreal the rest of the spring and a part of the summer.
+At last, having completed our arrangements for the journey, we received
+orders to proceed, and on the 26th of July, accompanied by my father and
+brothers and a few friends, I repaired to the place of embarkation,
+where was prepared a birch bark canoe, manned by nine Canadians, having
+Mr. A. M'Kay as commander, and a Mr. A. Fisher as passenger. The
+sentiments which I experienced at that moment would be as difficult for
+me to describe as they were painful to support; for the first time in my
+life I quitted the place of my birth, and was separated from beloved
+parents and intimate friends, having for my whole consolation the faint
+hope of seeing them again. We embarked at about five, P.M., and arrived
+at La Prairie de la Madeleine (on the opposite side of the St.
+Lawrence), toward eight o'clock.<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3" /><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a> We slept at this village, and the
+next morning, very early, having secured the canoe on a wagon, we got in
+motion again, and reached St. John's on the river Richelieu, a little
+before noon. Here we relaunched our canoe (after having well calked the
+seams), crossed or rather traversed the length of Lake Champlain, and
+arrived at Whitehall on the 30th. There we were overtaken by Mr. Ovid de
+Montigny, and a Mr. P.D. Jeremie, who were to be of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Having again placed our canoe on a wagon, we pursued our journey, and
+arrived on the 1st of August at Lansingburg, a little village situated
+on the bank of the river Hudson. Here we got our canoe once more afloat,
+passed by Troy, and by Albany, everywhere hospitably received, our
+Canadian boatmen, having their hats decorated with parti-colored ribands
+and feathers, being taken by the Americans for so many wild Indians, and
+arrived at New York on the 3d, at eleven o'clock in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>We had landed at the north end of the city, and the next day, being
+Sunday, we re-embarked, and were obliged to make a course round the
+city, in order to arrive at our lodgings on Long Island. We sang as we
+rowed; which, joined to the unusual sight of a birch bark canoe impelled
+by nine stout Canadians, dark as Indians, and as gayly adorned,
+attracted a crowd upon the wharves to gaze at us as we glided along. We
+found on Long Island (in the village of Brooklyn) those young gentlemen
+engaged in the service of the new company, who had left Canada in
+advance of our party.</p>
+
+<p>The vessel in which we were to sail not being ready, I should have found
+myself quite isolated and a stranger in the great city of New York, but
+for a letter of introduction to Mr. G&mdash;&mdash;, given me on my setting out,
+by Madame his sister. I had formed the acquaintance of this gentleman
+during a stay which he had made at Montreal in 1801; but as I was then
+very young, he would probably have had some difficulty in recognising me
+without his sister's letter. He introduced me to several of his friends,
+and I passed in an agreeable manner the five weeks which elapsed between
+my arrival in New York and the departure of the ship.</p>
+
+<p>I shall not undertake to describe New York; I will only say, that the
+elegance of the buildings, public and private, the cleanliness of the
+streets, the shade of the poplars which border them, the public walks,
+the markets always abundantly provided with all sorts of commodities,
+the activity of its commerce, then in a flourishing condition, the vast
+number of ships of all nations which crowded the quays; all, in a word,
+conspired to make me feel the difference between this great maritime
+city and my native town, of whose steeples I had never lost sight
+before, and which was by no means at that time what it is now.</p>
+
+<p>New York was not then, and indeed is not at this time a fortified town;
+still there were several batteries and military works, the most
+considerable of which were seen on the <i>Narrows</i>, or channel which forms
+the principal mouth of the Hudson. The isles called <i>Governor's Island</i>,
+and <i>Bedloe</i> or <i>Gibbet Island</i>, were also well fortified. On the first,
+situated to the west of the city and about a mile from it, there were
+barracks sufficiently capacious for several thousand soldiers, and a
+Moro, or castle, with three tiers of guns, all bomb-proof. These works
+have been strengthened during the last war.</p>
+
+<p>The market-places are eight in number; the most considerable is called
+<i>Fly-Market</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Park</i>, the <i>Battery</i>, and <i>Vauxhall Garden</i>, are the principal
+promenades. There were, in 1810, thirty-two churches, two of which were
+devoted to the catholic worship; and the population was estimated at
+ninety thousand souls, of whom ten thousand were French. It is thought
+that this population has since been augmented (1819) by some thirty
+thousand souls.</p>
+
+<p>During my sojourn at New York, I lodged in Brooklyn, on Long Island.
+This island is separated from the city by a sound, or narrow arm of the
+sea. There is here a pretty village, not far from which is a basin,
+where some gun-boats were hauled up, and a few war vessels were on the
+stocks. Some barracks had been constructed here, and a guard was
+maintained.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving New York, it is well to observe that during our stay in
+that city, Mr. M'Kay thought it the part of prudence to have an
+interview with the minister plenipotentiary of his Britannic majesty,
+Mr. Jackson,<a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4" /><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">[D]</a> to inform him of the object of our voyage, and get his
+views in regard to the line of conduct we ought to follow in case of war
+breaking out between the two powers; intimating to him that we were all
+British subjects, and were about to trade under the American flag. After
+some moments of reflection Mr. Jackson told him, &quot;that we were going on
+a very hazardous enterprise; that he saw our object was purely
+commercial, and that all he could promise us, was, that in case of a war
+we should be respected as British subjects and traders.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>This reply appeared satisfactory, and Mr. M'Kay thought we had nothing
+to apprehend on that side.</p>
+
+<p>The vessel in which we were to sail was called the <i>Tonquin</i>, of about
+300 tons burden, commanded by Captain Thorn (a first-lieutenant of the
+American navy, on furlough for this purpose), with a crew of twenty-one
+men. The number of passengers was thirty-three. Here follow the names of
+both.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PASSENGERS.</h4>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Partners" summary="Partners">
+    <tr>
+      <td rowspan="4">
+      <p style="text-align: right;"><span class="smcap">Partners.</span></p></td>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Messrs.</td>
+      <td>Alexander M'Kay</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+      <td rowspan="4">all of Canada.</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td align="center">&quot;</td>
+      <td>Duncan M'Dougall,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td align="center">&quot;</td>
+      <td>David Stuart,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+     <td align="center">&quot;</td>
+     <td>Robert Stuart,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+  </table>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Clerks" summary="Clerks">
+    <tr>
+      <td rowspan="11">
+      <p style="text-align: right;"><span class="smcap">Clerks.</span></p></td>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>James Lewis of New York,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Russel Farnham of Massachusetts,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>William W. Matthews of New York,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Alexander Boss,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+      <td rowspan="8">all from Canada.</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Donald M'Gillis,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Ovide de Montigny,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Francis B. Pillet,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Donald M'Lennan,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>William Wallace, </td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Thomas McKay,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Gabriel Franchere,</td>
+      <td>}</td>
+    </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Boatmen" summary="Boatmen">
+    <tr>
+      <td rowspan="7">
+      <p style="text-align: right;"><span class="smcap">Boatmen,<br /> etc.</span></p></td>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Oliver Roy Lapensée,</td>
+      <td rowspan="7">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td>Joseph Lapierre,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Ignace Lapensée,</td>
+      <td>Joseph Nadeau,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Jacques Lafantaisie, </td>
+      <td>Antoine Belleau,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Benjamin Roussel,</td>
+      <td>Louis Bruslé,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Michel Laframboise,</td>
+      <td>P.D. Jeremie,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Giles Leclerc,</td>
+      <td>all of Canada.</td>
+    </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Mechanics" summary="Mechanics">
+
+    <tr>
+      <td>Johann Koaster, ship-carpenter, a Russian,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>George Bell, cooper, New York,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>Job Aitken, rigger and calker, from Scotland,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>Augustus Roussil, blacksmith, Canada,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>Guilleaume Perreault, a boy.</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>These last were all mechanics, &amp;, destined for the establishment.</td>
+    </tr>
+
+</table>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+
+<h4>CREW.</h4>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Crew" summary="Crew">
+
+<tr><td>Jonathan Thorn, captain, New York State.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Ebenezer D. Fox, 1st mate, of Boston.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>John M. Mumford, 2d mate, of Massachusetts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>James Thorn, brother of the captain, New York.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>John Anderson, boatswain, foreigner.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Egbert Vanderhuff, tailor, New York.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>John Weeks, carpenter,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stephen Weeks, armorer,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>John Coles, New York,</td>
+  <td>}</td>
+  <td rowspan="2">sailmakers.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>John Martin, a Frenchman,</td> <td>}</td> </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+  <table border="0" cellspacing="1" style="border-collapse: collapse"
+  id="Sailors" summary="Sailors">
+
+    <tr>
+      <td rowspan="8">
+      <p style="text-align: right;"><span class="smcap">Sailors.</span></p></td>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>John White, New York.</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Adam Fisher,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Peter Verbel,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Edward Aymes,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Robert Hill, Albany, New York. </td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>John Adams,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Joseph Johnson, Englishman,</td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td align="right">{</td>
+      <td>Charles Roberts, New York,</td>
+    </tr>
+     <tr><td rowspan="3"></td>
+         <td rowspan="3"></td>
+         <td>A colored man as cook,</td></tr>
+     <tr><td>A mulatto steward,</td></tr>
+     <tr><td>And three or four others whose names I have forgotten.</td></tr>
+
+</table>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from New York.&mdash;Reflections of the Author.&mdash;Navigation,
+     falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+     comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>All being ready for our departure, we went on board ship, and weighed
+anchor on the 6th of September, in the morning. The wind soon fell off,
+and the first day was spent in drifting down to Staten island, where we
+came to anchor for the night. The next day we weighed anchor again; but
+there came on another dead calm, and we were forced to cast anchor near
+the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. On the 8th we weighed anchor for the third
+time, and by the help of a fresh breeze from the southwest, we succeeded
+in passing the bar; the pilot quitted us at about eleven o'clock, and
+soon after we lost sight of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>One must have experienced it one's self, to be able to conceive the
+melancholy which takes possession of the soul of a man of sensibility,
+at the instant that he leaves his country and the civilized world, to go
+to inhabit with strangers in wild and unknown lands. I should in vain
+endeavor to give my readers an idea, even faintly correct, of the
+painful sinking of heart that I suddenly felt, and of the sad glance
+which I involuntarily cast toward a future so much the more frightful to
+me, as it offered nothing but what was perfectly confused and uncertain.
+A new scene of life was unfolded before me, but how monotonous, and ill
+suited to diminish the dejection with which my mind was overwhelmed! For
+the first time in my life, I found myself under way upon the main sea,
+with nothing to fix my regards and arrest my attention but the frail
+machine which bore me between the abyss of waters and the immensity of
+the skies. I remained for a long time with my eyes fixed in the
+direction of that land which I no longer saw, and almost despaired of
+ever seeing again; I made serious reflections on the nature and
+consequences of the enterprise in which I had so rashly embarked; and I
+confess that if at that moment the offer had been made to release me
+from my engagement, I should have accepted the proposal with all my
+heart. It is true that the hopeless confusion and incumberment of the
+vessel's deck, the great number of strangers among whom I found myself,
+the brutal style which the captain and his subalterns used toward our
+young Canadians; all, in a word, conspired to make me augur a vexatious
+and disagreeable voyage. The sequel will show that I did not deceive
+myself in that.</p>
+
+<p>We perceived very soon in the S.W., which was our weather-side, a vessel
+that bore directly toward us; she made a signal that was understood by
+our captain; we hove to, and stood on her bow. It turned out to be the
+American frigate <i>Constitution</i>. We sent our boat on board of her, and
+sailed in company till toward five o'clock, when, our papers having been
+sent back to us, we separated.</p>
+
+<p>The wind having increased, the motion of the vessel made us sea-sick,
+those of us, I mean, who were for the first time at sea. The weather was
+fine, however; the vessel, which at first sailing was lumbered in such a
+manner that we could hardly get in or out of our berths, and scarcely
+work ship, by little and little got into order, so that we soon found
+ourselves more at ease.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th we commenced to take flying fish. The 24th, we saw a great
+quantity of dolphins. We prepared lines and took two of the latter,
+which we cooked. The flesh of this fish appeared to me excellent.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving New York, till the 4th of October, we headed southeast. On
+that day we struck the trade winds, and bore S.S.E.; being, according to
+our observations, in latitude 17&deg; 43&quot; and longitude 22&deg; 39&quot;.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th, in the morning, we came in sight of the Cape-Verd islands,
+bearing W.N.W., and distant about eight or nine miles, having the coast
+of Africa to the E.S.E. We should have been very glad to touch at these
+islands to take in water; but as our vessel was an American bottom, and
+had on board a number of British subjects, our captain did not think fit
+to expose himself to meet the English ships-of-war cruising on these
+coasts, who certainly would not have failed to make a strict search, and
+to take from us the best part of our crew; which would infallibly have
+proved disastrous to the object for which we had shipped them.</p>
+
+<p>Speaking of water, I may mention that the rule was to serve it out in
+rations of a quart a day; but that we were now reduced to a pint and a
+half. For the rest, our fare consisted of fourteen ounces of hard bread,
+a pound and a quarter of salt beef or one of pork, per day, and half a
+pint of souchong tea, with sugar, per man. The pork and beef were served
+alternately: rice and beans, each once a week; corn-meal pudding with
+molasses, ditto; on Sundays the steerage passengers were allowed a
+bottle of Teneriffe wine. All except the four partners, Mr. Lewis,
+acting as captain's clerk, and Mr. T. M'Kay, were in the steerage; the
+cabin containing but six berths, besides the captain's and first-mate's
+state-rooms.</p>
+
+<p>As long as we were near the coast of Africa, we had light and variable
+winds, and extremely hot weather; on the 8th, we had a dead calm, and
+saw several sharks round the vessel; we took one which we ate. I found
+the taste to resemble sturgeon. We experienced on that day an excessive
+heat, the mercury being at 94&deg; of Fahrenheit. From the 8th to the 11th
+we had on board a canary bird, which we treated with the greatest care
+and kindness, but which nevertheless quitted us, probably for a certain
+death.</p>
+
+<p>The nearer we approached to the equator the more we perceived the heat
+to increase: on the 16th, in latitude 6&deg;, longitude 22&deg; west from
+Greenwich, the mercury stood at 108&deg;. We discovered on that day a sail
+bearing down upon us. The next morning she reappeared, and approached
+within gun-shot. She was a large brig, carrying about twenty guns: we
+sailed in company all day by a good breeze, all sail spread; but toward
+evening she dropped astern and altered her course to the S.S.E.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th, at daybreak, the watch alarmed us by announcing that the
+same brig which had followed us the day before, was under our lee, a
+cable's length off, and seemed desirous of knowing who we were, without
+showing her own colors. Our captain appeared to be in some alarm; and
+admitting that she was a better sailer than we, he called all the
+passengers and crew on deck, the drum beat to quarters, and we feigned
+to make preparations for combat.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to observe that our vessel mounted ten pieces of cannon, and
+was pierced for twenty; the forward port-holes were adorned with sham
+guns. Whether it was our formidable appearance or no, at about ten A.M.
+the stranger again changed her course, and we soon lost sight of her
+entirely.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing further remarkable occurred to us till the 22d, when we passed
+the line in longitude 25&deg; 9&quot;. According to an ancient custom the crew
+baptized those of their number who had never before crossed the
+equator; it was a holyday for them on board. About two o'clock in the
+afternoon we perceived a sail in the S.S.W. We were not a little
+alarmed, believing that it was the same brig which we had seen some days
+before; for it was lying to, as if awaiting our approach. We soon drew
+near, and to our great joy discovered that she was a Portuguese; we
+hailed her, and learned that she came from some part of South America,
+and was bound to Pernambuco, on the coasts of Brazil. Very soon after we
+began to see what navigators call the <i>Clouds of Magellan</i>: they are
+three little white spots that one perceives in the sky almost as soon as
+one passes the equator: they were situated in the S.S.W.</p>
+
+<p>The 1st November, we began to see great numbers of aquatic birds. Toward
+three o'clock P.M., we discovered a sail on our larboard, but did not
+approach sufficiently near to speak her. The 3d, we saw two more sails,
+making to the S.E. We passed the tropic of Capricorn on the 4th, with a
+fine breeze, and in longitude 33&deg; 27&quot;. We lost the trade-winds, and as
+we advanced south the weather became cold and rainy. The 11th, we had a
+calm, although the swell was heavy. We saw several turtles, and the
+captain having sent out the small boat, we captured two of them. During
+the night of the 11th and 12th, the wind changed to the N.E., and raised
+a terrible tempest, in which the gale, the rain, the lightning, and
+thunder, seemed to have sworn our destruction; the sea appeared all
+a-fire, while our little vessel was the sport of winds and waves. We
+kept the hatches closed, which did not prevent us from passing very
+uncomfortable nights while the storm lasted; for the great heats that we
+had experienced between the tropics, had so opened the seams of the deck
+that every time the waves passed over, the water rushed down in
+quantities upon our hammocks. The 14th, the wind shifted to the S.S.W.,
+which compelled us to beat to windward. During the night we were struck
+by a tremendous sea; the helm was seized beyond control, and the man at
+the wheel was thrown from one side of the ship to the other, breaking
+two of his ribs, which confined him to his berth for a week.</p>
+
+<p>In latitude 35&deg; 19&quot;, longitude 40&deg;, the sea appeared to be covered with
+marine plants, and the change that we observed in the color of the
+water, as well as the immense number of gulls and other aquatic birds
+that we saw, proved to us that we were not far from the mouth of the
+<i>Rio de la Plata</i>. The wind continued to blow furiously till the 21st,
+when it subsided a little, and the weather cleared up. On the 25th,
+being in the 46th degree, and 30 minutes of latitude, we saw a penguin.</p>
+
+<p>We began to feel sensibly the want of water: since passing the tropic of
+Capricorn the daily allowance had been always diminishing, till we were
+reduced to three gills a day, a slender modicum considering that we had
+only salt provisions. We had indeed a still, which we used to render the
+sea-water drinkable; but we distilled merely what sufficed for the daily
+use of the kitchen, as to do more would have required a great quantity
+of wood or coal. As we were not more than one hundred and fifty leagues
+from the Falkland isles, we determined to put in there and endeavor to
+replenish our casks, and the captain caused the anchors to be got ready.</p>
+
+<p>We had contrary winds from the 27th of November to the 3d December. On
+the evening of that day, we heard one of the officers, who was at the
+mast head, cry &quot;Land! Land!&quot; Nevertheless, the night coming on, and the
+barren rocks which we had before us being little elevated above the
+ocean, we hove to.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at the Falkland Isles.&mdash;Landing.&mdash;Perilous Situation of the
+     Author and some of his Companions.&mdash;Portrait of Captain
+     Thorn.&mdash;Cape Horn.&mdash;Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 4th (Dec.) in the morning, I was not the last to mount on deck,
+to feast my eyes with the sight of land; for it is only those who have
+been three or four months at sea, who know how to appreciate the
+pleasure which one then feels even at sight of such barren and bristling
+rocks as form the Falkland Isles. We drew near these rocks very soon,
+and entered between two of the islands, where we anchored on a good
+ground. The first mate being sent ashore to look for water, several of
+our gentlemen accompanied him. They returned in the evening with the
+disappointing intelligence that they had not been able to find fresh
+water. They brought us, to compensate for this, a number of wild geese
+and two seals.</p>
+
+<p>The weather appearing to threaten, we weighed anchor and put out to sea.
+The night was tempestuous, and in the morning of the 5th we had lost
+sight of the first islands. The wind blowing off land, it was necessary
+to beat up all that day; in the evening we found ourselves sufficiently
+near the shore, and hove to for the night. The 6th brought us a clear
+sky, and with a fresh breeze we succeeded in gaining a good anchorage,
+which we took to be Port Egmont, and where we found good water.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th, we sent ashore the water casks, as well as the cooper to
+superintend filling them, and the blacksmiths who were occupied in some
+repairs required by the ship. For our part, having erected a tent near
+the springs, we passed the time while they were taking in water, in
+coursing over the isles: we had a boat for our accommodation, and killed
+every day a great many wild geese and ducks. These birds differ in
+plumage from those which are seen in Canada. We also killed a great
+many seals. These animals ordinarily keep upon the rocks. We also saw
+several foxes of the species called <i>Virginia</i> fox: they were shy and
+yet fierce, barking like dogs and then flying precipitately. Penguins
+are also numerous on the Falkland Isles. These birds have a fine
+plumage, and resemble the loon: but they do not fly, having only little
+stumps of wings which they use to help themselves in waddling along. The
+rocks were covered with them. It being their sitting season we found
+them on their nests, from which they would not stir. They are not wild
+or timid: far from flying at our approach, they attacked us with their
+bill, which is very sharp, and with their short wings. The flesh of the
+penguin is black and leathery, with a strong fishy taste, and one must
+be very hungry to make up one's mind to eat it. We got a great quantity
+of eggs by dislodging them from their nests.</p>
+
+<p>As the French and English had both attempted to form establishments on
+these rocks, we endeavored to find some vestige of them; the tracks
+which we met everywhere made us hope to find goats also: but all our
+researches were vain: all that we discovered was an old fishing cabin,
+constructed of whale bone, and some seal-skin moccasins; for these rocks
+offer not a single tree to the view, and are frequented solely by the
+vessels which pursue the whale fishery in the southern seas. We found,
+however, two head-boards with inscriptions in English, marking the spot
+where two men had been interred: as the letters were nearly obliterated,
+we carved new ones on fresh pieces of board procured from the ship. This
+pious attention to two dead men nearly proved fatal to a greater number
+of the living; for all the casks having been filled and sent on board,
+the captain gave orders to re-embark, and without troubling himself to
+inquire if this order had been executed or not, caused the anchor to be
+weighed on the morning of the 11th, while I and some of my companions
+were engaged in erecting the inscriptions of which I have spoken, others
+were cutting grass for the hogs, and Messrs M'Dougall and D. Stuart had
+gone to the south side of the isle to look for game. The roaring of the
+sea against the rock-bound shore prevented them from hearing the gun,
+and they did not rejoin us till the vessel was already at sea. We then
+lost no time, but pushed off, being eight in number, with our little
+boat, only twenty feet keel. We rowed with all our might, but gained
+nothing upon the vessel. We were losing sight of the islands at last,
+and our case seemed desperate. While we paused, and were debating what
+course to pursue, as we had no compass, we observed the ship tacking and
+standing toward us. In fine after rowing for three hours and a half, in
+an excited state of feeling not easily described, we succeeded in
+regaining the vessel, and were taken on board at about three o'clock
+P.M.</p>
+
+<p>Having related this trait of malice on the part of our captain, I shall
+be permitted to make some remarks on his character. Jonathan Thorn was
+brought up in the naval service of his country, and had distinguished
+himself in a battle fought between the Americans and the Turks at
+Tripoli, some years before: he held the rank of first lieutenant. He
+was a strict disciplinarian, of a quick and passionate temper,
+accustomed to exact obedience, considering nothing but duty, and giving
+himself no trouble about the murmurs of his crew, taking counsel of
+nobody, and following Mr. Astor's instructions to the letter. Such was
+the man who had been selected to command our ship. His haughty manners,
+his rough and overbearing disposition, had lost him the affection of
+most of the crew and of all the passengers: he knew it, and in
+consequence sought every opportunity to mortify us. It is true that the
+passengers had some reason to reproach themselves; they were not free
+from blame; but he had been the aggressor; and nothing could excuse the
+act of cruelty and barbarity of which he was guilty, in intending to
+leave us upon those barren rocks of the Falkland isles, where we must
+inevitably have perished. This lot was reserved for us, but for the bold
+interference of Mr. B. Stuart, whose uncle was of our party, and who,
+seeing that the captain, far from waiting for us, coolly continued his
+course, threatened to blow his brains out unless he hove to and took us
+on board.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/illus48.jpg"><img src="./images/illus48_th.jpg" alt="View of the Falkland Islands." title="View of the Falkland Islands." /></a></p>
+<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">View of the Falkland Islands.</span></p>
+<p class="figcenter"><small><i>Boat and five passengers pulling after Ship Tonquin.</i></small></p>
+
+<p>We pursued our course, bearing S.S.W., and on the 14th, in latitude 54&deg;
+1', longitude 64&deg; 18', we found bottom at sixty-five fathoms, and saw a
+sail to the south. On the 15th, in the morning, we discovered before us
+the high mountains of <i>Terra del fuego</i>, which we continued to see till
+evening: the weather then thickened, and we lost sight of them. We
+encountered a furious storm which drove us to the 56th degree and 18' of
+latitude. On the 18th, we were only fifteen leagues from Cape Horn. A
+dead calm followed, but the current carried us within sight of the cape,
+five or six leagues distant. This cape, which forms the southern
+extremity of the American continent, has always been an object of terror
+to the navigators who have to pass from one sea to the other; several of
+whom to avoid doubling it, have exposed themselves to the long and
+dangerous passage of the straits of Magellan, especially when about
+entering the Pacific ocean. When we saw ourselves under the stupendous
+rocks of the cape, we felt no other desire but to get away from them as
+soon as possible, so little agreeable were those rocks to the view, even
+in the case of people who had been some months at sea! And by the help
+of a land breeze we succeeded in gaining an offing. While becalmed here,
+we measured the velocity of the current setting east, which we found to
+be about three miles an hour.</p>
+
+<p>The wind soon changed again to the S.S.W., and blew a gale. We had to
+beat. We passed in sight of the islands of Diego Ramirez, and saw a
+large schooner under their lee. The distance that we had run from New
+York, was about 9,165 miles. We had frightful weather till the 24th,
+when we found ourselves in 58&deg; 16' of south latitude. Although it was
+the height of summer in that hemisphere, and the days as long as they
+are at Quebec on the 21st of June (we could read on deck at midnight
+without artificial light), the cold was nevertheless very great and the
+air very humid: the mercury for several days was but fourteen degrees
+above freezing point, by Fahrenheit's thermometer. If such is the
+temperature in these latitudes at the end of December, corresponding to
+our June, what must it be in the shortest days of the year, and where
+can the Patagonians then take refuge, and the inhabitants of the islands
+so improperly named the Land of Fire!</p>
+
+<p>The wind, which till the 24th had been contrary, hauled round to the
+south, and we ran westward. The next day being Christmas, we had the
+satisfaction to learn by our noon-day observation that we had weathered
+the cape, and were, consequently, now in the Pacific ocean. Up to that
+date we had but one man attacked with scurvy, a malady to which those
+who make long voyages are subject, and which is occasioned by the
+constant use of salt provisions, by the humidity of the vessel, and the
+inaction.</p>
+
+<p>From the 25th of December till the 1st of January, we were favored with
+a fair wind and ran eighteen degrees to the north in that short space of
+time. Though cold yet, the weather was nevertheless very agreeable. On
+the 17th, in latitude 10&deg; S., and longitude 110&deg; 50' W., we took
+several <i>bonitas</i>, an excellent fish. We passed the equator on the 23d,
+in 128&deg; 14' of west longitude. A great many porpoises came round the
+vessel. On the 25th arose a tempest which lasted till the 28th. The wind
+then shifted to the E.S.E. and carried us two hundred and twenty-four
+miles on our course in twenty-four hours. Then we had several days of
+contrary winds; on the 8th of February it hauled to the S.E., and on the
+11th we saw the peak of a mountain covered with snow, which the first
+mate, who was familiar with these seas, told me was the summit of
+<i>Mona-Roah</i>, a high mountain on the island of <i>Ohehy</i>, one of those
+which the circumnavigator Cook named the Sandwich Isles, and where he
+met his death in 1779. We headed to the land all day, and although we
+made eight or nine knots an hour, it was not till evening that we were
+near enough to distinguish the huts of the islanders: which is
+sufficient to prove the prodigious elevation of <i>Mona Roah</i> above the
+level of the sea.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Accident.&mdash;View of the Coast.&mdash;Attempted Visit of the
+     Natives.&mdash;Their Industry.&mdash;Bay of Karaka-koua.&mdash;Landing on the
+     Island.&mdash;John Young, Governor of Owahee.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>We were ranging along the coast with the aid of a fine breeze, when the
+boy Perrault, who had mounted the fore-rigging to enjoy the scenery,
+lost his hold, and being to windward where the shrouds were taut,
+rebounded from them like a ball some twenty feet from the ship's side
+into the ocean. We perceived his fall and threw over to him chairs,
+barrels, benches, hen-coops, in a word everything we could lay hands on;
+then the captain gave the orders to heave to; in the twinkling of an eye
+the lashings of one of the quarter-boats were cut apart, the boat
+lowered and manned: by this time the boy was considerably a-stern. He
+would have been lost undoubtedly but for a wide pair of canvass
+overalls full of tar and grease, which operated like a life-preserver.
+His head, however, was under when he was picked up, and he was brought
+on board lifeless, about a quarter of an hour after he fell into the
+sea. We succeeded, notwithstanding, in a short time, in bringing him to,
+and in a few hours he was able to run upon the deck.</p>
+
+<p>The coast of the island, viewed from the sea, offers the most
+picturesque <i>coup d'oeil</i> and the loveliest prospect; from the beach to
+the mountains the land rises amphitheatrically, all along which is a
+border of lower country covered with cocoa-trees and bananas, through
+the thick foliage whereof you perceive the huts of the islanders; the
+valleys which divide the hills that lie beyond appear well cultivated,
+and the mountains themselves, though extremely high, are covered with
+wood to their summits, except those few peaks which glitter with
+perpetual snow.</p>
+
+<p>As we ran along the coast, some canoes left the beach and came
+alongside, with vegetables and cocoa-nuts; but as we wished to profit
+by the breeze to gain the anchorage, we did not think fit to stop. We
+coasted along during a part of the night; but a calm came on which
+lasted till the morrow. As we were opposite the bay of Karaka-koua, the
+natives came out again, in greater numbers, bringing us cabbages, yams,
+<i>taro</i>, bananas, bread-fruit, water-melons, poultry, &amp;c., for which we
+traded in the way of exchange. Toward evening, by the aid of a sea
+breeze that rose as day declined, we got inside the harbor where we
+anchored on a coral bottom in fourteen fathoms water.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the islanders visited the vessel in great numbers all day
+long, bringing, as on the day before, fruits, vegetables, and some pigs,
+in exchange for which we gave them glass beads, iron rings, needles,
+cotton cloth, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our gentlemen went ashore and were astonished to find a native
+occupied in building a small sloop of about thirty tons: the tools of
+which he made use consisted of a half worn-out axe, an adze, about
+two-inch blade, made out of a paring chisel, a saw, and an iron rod
+which he heated red hot and made it serve the purpose of an auger. It
+required no little patience and dexterity to achieve anything with such
+instruments: he was apparently not deficient in these qualities, for his
+work was tolerably well advanced. Our people took him on board with
+them, and we supplied him with suitable tools, for which he appeared
+extremely grateful.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th, in the morning, while the ship's carpenter was engaged in
+replacing one of the cat-heads, two composition sheaves fell into the
+sea; as we had no others on board, the captain proposed to the
+islanders, who are excellent swimmers, to dive for them, promising a
+reward; and immediately two offered themselves. They plunged several
+times, and each time brought up shells as a proof that they had been to
+the bottom. We had the curiosity to hold our watches while they dove,
+and were astonished to find that they remained four minutes under the
+water. That exertion appeared to me, however, to fatigue them a great
+deal, to such a degree that the blood streamed from their nostrils and
+ears. At last one of them brought up the sheaves and received the
+promised recompense, which consisted of four yards of cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Karaka-koua bay where we lay, may be three quarters of a mile deep, and
+a mile and a half wide at the entrance: the latter is formed by two low
+points of rock which appear to have run down from the mountains in the
+form of lava, after a volcanic eruption. On each point is situated a
+village of moderate size; that is to say, a small group of the low huts
+of the islanders. The bottom of the bay terminates in a bold
+<i>escarpment</i> of rock, some four hundred feet high, on the top of which
+is seen a solitary cocoa-tree.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 14th, I went ashore with some other passengers,
+and we landed at the group of cabins on the western point, of those
+which I have described. The inhabitants entertained us with a dance
+executed by nineteen young women and one man, all singing together, and
+in pretty good time. An old man showed us the spot where Captain Cook
+was killed, on the 14th of February, 1779, with the cocoa-nut trees
+pierced by the balls from the boats which the unfortunate navigator
+commanded. This old man, whether it were feigned or real sensibility,
+seemed extremely affected and even shed tears, in showing us these
+objects. As for me, I could not help finding it a little singular to be
+thus, by mere chance, upon this spot, on the 14th of February, 1811;
+that is to say, thirty-two years after, on the anniversary of the
+catastrophe which has rendered it for ever celebrated. I drew no
+sinister augury from the coincidence, however, and returned to the ship
+with my companions as gay as I left it. When I say with my companions, I
+ought to except the boatswain, John Anderson, who, having had several
+altercations with the captain on the passage, now deserted the ship,
+preferring to live with the natives rather than obey any longer so
+uncourteous a superior. A sailor also deserted; but the islanders
+brought him back, at the request of the captain. They offered to bring
+back Anderson, but the captain preferred leaving him behind.</p>
+
+<p>We found no good water near Karaka-koua bay: what the natives brought us
+in gourds was brackish. We were also in great want of fresh meat, but
+could not obtain it: the king of these islands having expressly
+forbidden his subjects to supply any to the vessels which touched there.
+One of the chiefs sent a canoe to Tohehigh bay, to get from the governor
+of the island, who resided there, permission to sell us some pigs. The
+messengers returned the next day, and brought us a letter, in which the
+governor ordered us to proceed without delay to the isle of Wahoo, where
+the king lives; assuring us that we should there find good water and
+everything else we needed.</p>
+
+<p>We got under way on the 16th and with a light wind coasted the island as
+far as Tohehigh bay. The wind then dropping away entirely, the captain,
+accompanied by Messrs. M'Kay and M'Dougall, went ashore, to pay a visit
+to the governor aforesaid. He was not a native, but a Scotchman named
+John Young, who came hither some years after the death of Captain Cook.
+This man had married a native woman, and had so gained the friendship
+and confidence of the king, as to be raised to the rank of chief and
+after the conquest of Wahoo by King Tamehameha, was made governor of
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) the most considerable of the Sandwich Islands, both by
+its extent and population. His excellency explained to our gentlemen the
+reason why the king had interdicted the trade in hogs to the inhabitants
+of all the islands: this reason being that his majesty wished to reserve
+to himself the monopoly of that branch of commerce, for the augmentation
+of his royal revenue by its exclusive profits. The governor also
+informed them that no rain had fallen on the south part of Hawaii for
+three years; which explained why we found so little fresh water: he
+added that the north part of the island was more fertile than the south,
+where we were: but that there was no good anchorage: that part of the
+coast being defended by sunken rocks which form heavy breakers. In fine,
+the governor dismissed our gentlemen with a present of four fine fat
+hogs; and we, in return, sent him some tea, coffee, and chocolate, and
+a keg of Madeira wine.</p>
+
+<p>The night was nearly a perfect calm, and on the 17th we found ourselves
+abreast of <i>Mona-Wororayea</i> a snow-capped mountain, like <i>Mona-Roah</i>,
+but which appeared to me less lofty than the latter. A number of
+islanders came to visit us as before, with some objects of curiosity,
+and some small fresh fish. The wind rising on the 18th, we soon passed
+the western extremity of Hawaii, and sailed by Mowhee and Tahooraha, two
+more islands of this group, and said to be, like the rest, thickly
+inhabited. The first presents a highly picturesque aspect, being
+composed of hills rising in the shape of a sugar loaf and completely
+covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the 21st, we approached Wahoo, and came to anchor opposite
+the bay of <i>Ohetity</i>, outside the bar, at a distance of some two miles
+from the land.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Bay of Ohetity.&mdash;Tamehameha, King of the Islands.&mdash;His Visit to the
+     Ship.&mdash;His Capital.&mdash;His Naval Force.&mdash;His Authority.&mdash;Productions
+     of the Country.&mdash;Manners and Customs.&mdash;Reflections.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>There is no good anchorage in the bay of Ohetity, inside the bar or
+coral reef: the holding-ground is bad: so that, in case of a storm, the
+safety of the ship would have been endangered. Moreover, with a contrary
+wind, it would have been difficult to get out of the inner harbor; for
+which reasons, our captain preferred to remain in the road. For the
+rest, the country surrounding the bay is even more lovely in aspect than
+that of Karaka-koua; the mountains rise to a less elevation in the
+back-ground, and the soil has an appearance of greater fertility.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tamehameha</i>, whom all the Sandwich Isles obeyed when we were there in
+1811, was neither the son nor the relative of Tierroboo, who reigned in
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) in 1779, when Captain Cook and some of his people were
+massacred. He was, at that date, but a chief of moderate power; but,
+being skilful, intriguing, and full of ambition, he succeeded in gaining
+a numerous party, and finally possessed himself of the sovereignty. As
+soon as he saw himself master of Owhyhee, his native island, he
+meditated the conquest of the leeward islands, and in a few years he
+accomplished it. He even passed into <i>Atoudy</i>, the most remote of all,
+and vanquished the ruler of it, but contented himself with imposing on
+him an annual tribute. He had fixed his residence at Wahoo, because of
+all the Sandwich Isles it was the most fertile, the most picturesque&mdash;in
+a word, the most worthy of the residence of the sovereign.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as we arrived, we were visited by a canoe manned by three white
+men, Davis and Wadsworth, Americans, and Manini, a Spaniard. The last
+offered to be our interpreter during our stay; which was agreed to.
+Tamehameha presently sent to us his prime-minister, <i>Kraimoku</i>, to whom
+the Americans have given the name of <i>Pitt</i>, on account of his skill in
+the affairs of government. Our captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, went ashore immediately, to be presented to Tamehameha. About
+four o'clock, P.M., we saw them returning, accompanied by a double
+pirogue conveying the king and his suite. We ran up our colors, and
+received his majesty with a salute of four guns.</p>
+
+<p>Tamehameha was above the middle height, well made, robust and inclined
+to corpulency, and had a majestic carriage. He appeared to me from fifty
+to sixty years old. He was clothed in the European style, and wore a
+sword. He walked a long time on the deck, asking explanations in regard
+to those things which he had not seen on other vessels, and which were
+found on ours. A thing which appeared to surprise him, was to see that
+we could render the water of the sea fresh, by means of the still
+attached to our caboose; he could not imagine how that could be done.
+We invited him into the cabin, and, having regaled him with some glasses
+of wine, began to talk of business matters: we offered him merchandise
+in exchange for hogs, but were not able to conclude the bargain that
+day. His majesty re-embarked in his double pirogue, at about six o'clock
+in the evening. It was manned by twenty-four men. A great chest,
+containing firearms, was lashed over the centre of the two canoes
+forming the pirogue; and it was there that Tamehameha sat, with his
+prime-minister at his side.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, on the 22d, we sent our water-casks ashore and filled
+them with excellent water. At about noon his sable majesty paid us
+another visit, accompanied by his three wives and his favorite minister.
+These females were of an extraordinary corpulence, and of unmeasured
+size. They were dressed in the fashion of the country, having nothing
+but a piece of <i>tapa</i>, or bark-cloth, about two yards long, passed round
+the hips and falling to the knees. We resumed the negotiations of the
+day before, and were more successful. I remarked that when the bargain
+was concluded, he insisted with great pertinacity that part of the
+payment should be in Spanish dollars. We asked the reason, and he made
+answer that he wished to buy a frigate of his brother, King George,
+meaning the king of England. The bargain concluded, we prayed his
+majesty and his suite to dine with us; they consented, and toward
+evening retired, apparently well satisfied with their visit and our
+reception of them.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, the natives surrounded the ship in great numbers, with
+hundreds of canoes, offering us their goods, in the shape of eatables
+and the rude manufactures of the island, in exchange for merchandise;
+but, as they had also brought intoxicating liquors in gourds, some of
+the crew got drunk; the captain was, consequently, obliged to suspend
+the trade, and forbade any one to traffic with the islanders, except
+through the first-mate, who was intrusted with that business.</p>
+
+<p>I landed on the 22d, with Messrs. Pillet and M'Gillis: we passed the
+night ashore, spending that day and the next morning in rambling over
+the environs of the bay, followed by a crowd of men, women, and
+children.</p>
+
+<p>Ohetity, where Tamehameha resides, and which, consequently, may be
+regarded as the capital of his kingdom, is&mdash;or at least was at that
+time&mdash;a moderate-sized city, or rather a large village. Besides the
+private houses, of which there were perhaps two hundred, constructed of
+poles planted in the ground and covered over with matting, there were
+the royal palace, which was not magnificent by any means: a public
+store, of two stories, one of stone and the other of wood; two <i>morais</i>,
+or idol temples, and a wharf. At the latter we found an old vessel, the
+<i>Lady Bird</i>, which some American navigators had given in exchange for a
+schooner; it was the only large vessel which King Tamehameha possessed;
+and, besides, was worth nothing. As for schooners he had forty of them,
+of from twenty to thirty tons burthen: these vessels served to transport
+the tributes in kind paid by his vassals in the other islands. Before
+the Europeans arrived among these savages, the latter had no means of
+communication between one isle and another, but their canoes, and as
+some of the islands are not in sight of each other, these voyages must
+have been dangerous. Near the palace I found an Indian from Bombay,
+occupied in making a twelve inch cable, for the use of the ship which I
+have described.</p>
+
+<p>Tamehameha kept constantly round his house a guard of twenty-four men.
+These soldiers wore, by way of uniform, a long blue coat with yellow;
+and each was armed with a musket. In front of the house, on an open
+square, were placed fourteen four-pounders, mounted on their carriages.</p>
+
+<p>The king was absolute, and judged in person the differences between his
+subjects. We had an opportunity of witnessing a proof of it, the day
+after our landing. A Portuguese having had a quarrel with a native, who
+was intoxicated, struck him: immediately the friends of the latter, who
+had been the aggressor after all, gathered in a crowd to beat down the
+poor foreigner with stones; he fled as fast as he could to the house of
+the king, followed by a mob of enraged natives, who nevertheless stopped
+at some distance from the guards, while the Portuguese, all breathless,
+crouched in a corner. We were on the esplanade in front of the palace
+royal, and curiosity to see the trial led us into the presence of his
+majesty, who having caused the quarrel to be explained to him, and heard
+the witnesses on both sides, condemned the native to work four days in
+the garden of the Portuguese and to give him a hog. A young Frenchman
+from Bordeaux, preceptor of the king's sons, whom he taught to read, and
+who understood the language, acted as interpreter to the Portuguese, and
+explained to us the sentence. I can not say whether our presence
+influenced the decision, or whether, under other circumstances, the
+Portuguese would have been less favorably treated. We were given to
+understand that Tamehameha was pleased to see whites establish
+themselves in his dominions, but that he esteemed only people with some
+useful trade, and despised idlers, and especially drunkards. We saw at
+Wahoo about thirty of these white inhabitants, for the most part, people
+of no character, and who had remained on the islands either from
+indolence, or from drunkenness and licentiousness. Some had taken wives
+in the country, in which case the king gave them a portion of land to
+cultivate for themselves. But two of the worst sort had found means to
+procure a small still, wherewith they manufactured rum and supplied it
+to the natives.</p>
+
+<p>The first navigators found only four sorts of quadrupeds on the Sandwich
+islands:&mdash;dogs, swine, lizards, and rats. Since then sheep have been
+carried there, goats, horned cattle, and even horses, and these animals
+have multiplied.</p>
+
+<p>The chief vegetable productions of these isles are the sugar cane, the
+bread-fruit tree, the banana, the water-melon, the musk-melon, the
+<i>taro</i>, the <i>ava</i>, the <i>pandanus</i>, the mulberry, &amp;c. The bread-fruit
+tree is about the size of a large apple-tree; the fruit resembles an
+apple and is about twelve or fourteen inches in circumference; the rind
+is thick and rough like a melon: when cut transversely it is found to
+be full of sacs, like the inside of an orange; the pulp has the
+consistence of water-melon, and is cooked before it is eaten. We saw
+orchards of bread-fruit trees and bananas, and fields of sugar-cane,
+back of Ohetity.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>taro</i> grows in low situations, and demands a great deal of care. It
+is not unlike a white turnip,<a name="FNanchor_E_5" id="FNanchor_E_5" /><a href="#Footnote_E_5" class="fnanchor">[E]</a> and as it constitutes the principal
+food of the natives, it is not to be wondered at that they bestow so
+much attention on its culture. Wherever a spring of pure water is found
+issuing out of the side of a hill, the gardener marks out on the
+declivity the size of the field he intends to plant. The ground is
+levelled and surrounded with a mud or stone wall, not exceeding eighteen
+inches in height, and having a flood gate above and below. Into this
+enclosure the water of the spring is conducted, or is suffered to escape
+from it, according to the dryness of the season. When the root has
+acquired a sufficient size it is pulled up for immediate use. This
+esculent is very bad to eat raw, but boiled it is better than the yam.
+Cut in slices, dried, pounded and reduced to a farina, it forms with
+bread fruit the principal food of the natives. Sometimes they boil it to
+the consistence of porridge, which they put into gourds and allow to
+ferment; it will then keep a long time. They also use to mix with it,
+fish, which they commonly eat raw with the addition of a little salt,
+obtained by evaporation.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>ava</i> is a plant more injurious than useful to the inhabitants of
+these isles; since they only make use of it to obtain a dangerous and
+intoxicating drink, which they also call <i>ava</i>. The mode of preparing
+this beverage is as follows: they chew the root, and spit out the result
+into a basin; the juice thus expressed is exposed to the sun to undergo
+fermentation; after which they decant it into a gourd; it is then fit
+for use, and they drink it on occasions to intoxication. The too
+frequent use of this disgusting liquor causes loss of sight, and a sort
+of leprosy, which can only be cured by abstaining from it, and by
+bathing frequently in the water of the sea. This leprosy turns their
+skin white: we saw several of the lepers, who were also blind, or nearly
+so. The natives are also fond of smoking: the tobacco grows in the
+islands, but I believe it has been introduced from abroad. The bark of
+the mulberry furnishes the cloth worn by both sexes; of the leaves of
+the <i>pandanus</i> they make mats. They have also a kind of wax-nut, about
+the size of a dried plum of which they make candles by running a stick
+through several of them. Lighted at one end, they burn like a wax taper,
+and are the only light they use in their huts at night.</p>
+
+<p>The men are generally well made and tall: they wear for their entire
+clothing what they call a <i>maro</i>; it is a piece of figured or white
+tapa, two yards long and a foot wide, which they pass round the loins
+and between the legs, tying the ends in a knot over the left hip. At
+first sight I thought they were painted red, but soon perceived that it
+was the natural <i>color</i> of their skin. The women wear a petticoat of the
+same stuff as the <i>maro</i>, but wider and longer, without, however,
+reaching below the knees. They have sufficiently regular features, and
+but for the color, may pass, generally speaking, for handsome women.
+Some to heighten their charms, dye their black hair (cut short for the
+purpose) with quick lime, forming round the head a strip of pure white,
+which disfigures them monstrously. Others among the young wear a more
+becoming garland of flowers. For other traits, they are very lascivious,
+and far from observing a modest reserve, especially toward strangers. In
+regard to articles of mere ornament, I was told that they were not the
+same in all the island. I did not see them, either, clothed in their war
+dresses, or habits of ceremony. But I had an opportunity to see them
+paint or print their <i>tapa</i>, or bark cloth, an occupation in which they
+employ a great deal of care and patience. The pigments they use are
+derived from vegetable juices, prepared with the oil of the cocoa-nut.
+Their pencils are little reeds or canes of bamboo, at the extremity of
+which they carve out divers sorts of flowers. First they tinge the cloth
+they mean to print, yellow, green, or some other color which forms the
+ground: then they draw upon it perfectly straight lines, without any
+other guide but the eye; lastly they dip the ends of the bamboo sticks
+in paint of a different tint from the ground, and apply them between the
+dark or bright bars thus formed. This cloth resembles a good deal our
+calicoes and printed cottons; the oils with which it is impregnated
+renders it impervious to water. It is said that the natives of <i>Atowy</i>
+excel all the other islanders in the art of painting the tapa.</p>
+
+<p>The Sandwich-islanders live in villages of one or two hundred houses
+arranged without symmetry, or rather grouped together in complete
+defiance of it. These houses are constructed (as I have before said) of
+posts driven in the ground, covered with long dry grass, and walled with
+matting; the thatched roof gives them a sort of resemblance to our
+Canadian barns or granges. The length of each house varies according to
+the number of the family which occupies it: they are not smoky like the
+wigwams of our Indians, the fireplace being always outside in the open
+air, where all the cooking is performed. Hence their dwellings are very
+clean and neat inside.</p>
+
+<p>Their pirogues or canoes are extremely light and neat: those which are
+single have an outrigger, consisting of two curved pieces of timber
+lashed across the bows, and touching the water at the distance of five
+or six feet from the side; another piece, turned up at each extremity,
+is tied to the end and drags in the water, on which it acts like a
+skating iron on the ice, and by its weight keeps the canoe in
+equilibrium: without that contrivance they would infallibly upset. Their
+paddles are long, with a very broad blade. All these canoes carry a
+lateen, or sprit-sail, which is made of a mat of grass or leaves,
+extremely well woven.</p>
+
+<p>I did not remain long enough with these people to acquire very extensive
+and exact notions of their religion: I know that they recognise a
+Supreme Being, whom they call <i>Etoway</i>, and a number of inferior
+divinities. Each village has one or more <i>morais</i>. These morais are
+enclosures which served for cemeteries; in the middle is a temple,
+where the priests alone have a right to enter: they contain several
+idols of wood, rudely sculptured. At the feet of these images are
+deposited, and left to putrify, the offerings of the people, consisting
+of dogs, pigs, fowls, vegetables, &amp;c. The respect of these savages for
+their priests extends almost to adoration; they regard their persons as
+sacred, and feel the greatest scruple in touching the objects, or going
+near the places, which they have declared <i>taboo</i> or forbidden. The
+<i>taboo</i> has often been useful to European navigators, by freeing them
+from the importunities of the crowd.</p>
+
+<p>In our rambles we met groups playing at different games. That of
+draughts appeared the most common. The checker-board is very simple, the
+squares being marked on the ground with a sharp stick: the men are
+merely shells or pebbles. The game was different from that played in
+civilized countries, so that we could not understand it.</p>
+
+<p>Although nature has done almost everything for the inhabitants of the
+Sandwich islands&mdash;though they enjoy a perpetual spring, a clear sky, a
+salubrious climate, and scarcely any labor is required to produce the
+necessaries of life&mdash;they can not be regarded as generally happy: the
+artisans and producers, whom they call <i>Tootoos</i>, are nearly in the same
+situation as the Helots among the Lacedemonians, condemned to labor
+almost incessantly for their lord or <i>Eris</i>, without hope of bettering
+their condition, and even restricted in the choice of their daily
+food.<a name="FNanchor_F_6" id="FNanchor_F_6" /><a href="#Footnote_F_6" class="fnanchor">[F]</a> How has it happened that among a people yet barbarous, where
+knowledge is nearly equally distributed, the class which is beyond
+comparison the most numerous has voluntarily submitted to such a
+humiliating and oppressive yoke? The Tartars, though infinitely less
+numerous than the Chinese, have subjected them, because the former were
+warlike and the latter were not. The same thing has happened, no doubt,
+at remote periods, in Poland, and other regions of Europe and Asia. If
+moral causes are joined to physical ones, the superiority of one caste
+and the inferiority of the other will be still more marked; it is known
+that the natives of Hispaniola, when they saw the Spaniards arrive on
+their coast, in vessels of an astonishing size to their apprehensions,
+and heard them imitate the thunder with their cannon, took them for
+beings of a superior nature to their own. Supposing that this island had
+been extremely remote from every other country, and that the Spaniards,
+after conquering it, had held no further communication with any
+civilized land, at the end of a century or two the language and the
+manners would have assimilated, but there would have been two castes,
+one of lords, enjoying all the advantages, the other of serfs, charged
+with all the burdens. This theory seems to have been realized anciently
+in Hindostan; but if we must credit the tradition of the
+Sandwich-islanders, their country was originally peopled by a man and
+woman, who came to Owyhee in a canoe. Unless, then, they mean that this
+man and woman came with their slaves, and that the <i>Eris</i> are descended
+from the first, and the <i>Tootoos</i> from the last, they ought to attribute
+to each other the same origin, and consequently regard each other as
+equals, and even as brothers, according to the manner of thinking that
+prevails among savages. The cause of the slavery of women among most
+barbarous tribes is more easily explained: the men have subjected them
+by the right of the strongest, if ignorance and superstition have not
+caused them to be previously regarded as beings of an inferior nature,
+made to be servants and not companions.<a name="FNanchor_G_7" id="FNanchor_G_7" /><a href="#Footnote_G_7" class="fnanchor">[G]</a></p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Wahoo.&mdash;Storm.&mdash;Arrival at the Mouth of the
+     Columbia.&mdash;Reckless Order of the Captain.&mdash;Difficulty of the
+     Entrance.&mdash;Perilous Situation of the Ship.&mdash;Unhappy Fate of a part
+     of the Crew and People of the Expedition.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Having taken on board a hundred head of live hogs, some goats, two
+sheep, a quantity of poultry, two boat-loads of sugar-cane, to feed the
+hogs, as many more of yams, taro, and other vegetables, and all our
+water-casks being snugly stowed, we weighed anchor on the 28th of
+February, sixteen days after our arrival at Karaka-koua.</p>
+
+<p>We left another man (Edward Aymes) at Wahoo. He belonged to a boat's
+crew which was sent ashore for a load of sugar canes. By the time the
+boat was loaded by the natives the ebb of the tide had left her aground,
+and Aymes asked leave of the coxswain to take a stroll, engaging to be
+back for the flood. Leave was granted him, but during his absence, the
+tide haying come in sufficiently to float the boat, James Thorn, the
+coxswain, did not wait for the young sailor, who was thus left behind.
+The captain immediately missed the man, and, on being informed that he
+had strolled away from the boat on leave, flew into a violent passion.
+Aymes soon made his appearance alongside, having hired some natives to
+take him on board; on perceiving him, the captain ordered him to stay in
+the long-boat, then lashed to the side with its load of sugar-cane. The
+captain then himself got into the boat, and, taking one of the canes,
+beat the poor fellow most unmercifully with it; after which, not
+satisfied with this act of brutality, he seized his victim and threw him
+overboard! Aymes, however, being an excellent swimmer, made for the
+nearest native canoe, of which there were, as usual, a great number
+around the ship. The islanders, more humane than our captain, took in
+the poor fellow, who, in spite of his entreaties to be received on
+board, could only succeed in getting his clothes, which were thrown into
+the canoe. At parting, he told Captain Thorn that he knew enough of the
+laws of his country, to obtain redress, should they ever meet in the
+territory of the American Union.</p>
+
+<p>While we were getting under sail, Mr. M'Kay pointed out to the captain
+that there was one water-cask empty, and proposed sending it ashore to
+be filled, as the great number of live animals we had on board required
+a large quantity of fresh water. The captain, who feared that some of
+the men would desert if he sent them ashore, made an observation to that
+effect in answer to Mr. M'Kay, who then proposed sending me on a canoe
+which lay alongside, to fill the cask in question: this was agreed to by
+the captain, and I took the cask accordingly to the nearest spring.
+Having filled it, not without some difficulty, the islanders seeking to
+detain me, and I perceiving that they had given me some gourds full of
+salt water, I was forced also to demand a double pirogue (for the canoe
+which had brought the empty cask, was found inadequate to carry a full
+one), the ship being already under full sail and gaining an offing. As
+the natives would not lend a hand to procure what I wanted, I thought it
+necessary to have recourse to the king, and in fact did so. For seeing
+the vessel so far at sea, with what I knew of the captain's disposition,
+I began to fear that he had formed the plan of leaving me on the island.
+My fears, nevertheless were ill-founded; the vessel made a tack toward
+the shore, to my great joy; and a double pirogue was furnished me,
+through the good offices of our young friend the French schoolmaster, to
+return on board with my cask.</p>
+
+<p>Our deck was now as much encumbered as when left New York; for we had
+been obliged to place our live animals at the gangways, and to board
+over their pens, on which it was necessary to pass, to work ship. Our
+own numbers were also augmented; for we had taken a dozen islanders for
+the service of our intended commercial establishment. Their term of
+engagement was three years, during which we were to feed and clothe
+them, and at its expiration they were to receive a hundred dollars in
+merchandise. The captain had shipped another dozen as hands on the
+coasting voyage. These people, who make very good sailors, were eager to
+be taken into employment, and we might easily have carried off a much
+greater number.</p>
+
+<p>We had contrary winds till the 2d of March, when, having doubled the
+western extremity of the island, we made northing, and lost sight of
+these smiling and temperate countries, to enter very soon a colder
+region and less worthy of being inhabited. The winds were variable, and
+nothing extraordinary happened to us till the 16th, when, being arrived
+at the latitude of 35&deg; 11' north, and in 138&deg; 16' of west longitude, the
+wind shifted all of a sudden to the S.S.W., and blew with such violence,
+that we were forced to strike top-gallant masts and top-sails, and run
+before the gale with a double reef in our foresail. The rolling of the
+vessel was greater than in all the gales we had experienced previously.
+Nevertheless, as we made great headway, and were approaching the
+continent, the captain by way of precaution, lay to for two nights
+successively. At last, on the 22d, in the morning, we saw the land.
+Although we had not been able to take any observations for several days,
+nevertheless, by the appearance of the coast, we perceived that we were
+near the mouth of the river Columbia, and were not more than three miles
+from land. The breakers formed by the bar at the entrance of that river,
+and which we could distinguish from the ship, left us no room to doubt
+that we had arrived at last at the end of our voyage.</p>
+
+<p>The wind was blowing in heavy squalls, and the sea ran very high: in
+spite of that, the captain caused a boat to be lowered, and Mr. Fox
+(first mate), Basile Lapensee, Ignace Lapensee, Jos. Nadeau, and John
+Martin, got into her, taking some provisions and firearms, with orders
+to sound the channel and report themselves on board as soon as possible.
+The boat was not even supplied with a good sail, or a mast, but one of
+the partners gave Mr. Fox a pair of bed sheets to serve for the former.
+Messrs M'Kay and M'Dougall could not help remonstrating with the
+captain on the imprudence of sending the boat ashore in such weather;
+but they could not move his obstinacy. The boat's crew pulled away from
+the ship; alas! we were never to see her again; and we already had a
+foreboding of her fate. The next day the wind seemed to moderate, and we
+approached very near the coast. The entrance of the river, which we
+plainly distinguished with the naked eye, appeared but a confused and
+agitated sea: the waves, impelled by a wind from the offing, broke upon
+the bar, and left no perceptible passage. We got no sign of the boat;
+and toward evening, for our own safety, we hauled off to sea, with all
+countenances extremely sad, not excepting the captain's, who appeared to
+me as much afflicted as the rest, and who had reason to be so. During
+the night, the wind fell, the clouds dispersed, and the sky became
+serene. On the morning of the 24th, we found that the current had
+carried us near the coast again, and we dropped anchor in fourteen
+fathoms water, north of Cape Disappointment. The <i>coup d'oeil</i> is not
+so smiling by a great deal at this anchorage, as at the Sandwich
+islands, the coast offering little to the eye but a continuous range of
+high mountains covered with snow.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter"><a href="./images/illus88.jpg"><img src="./images/illus88_th.jpg" alt="Entrance of the Columbia River." title="Entrance of the Columbia River." /></a></p>
+<p class="figcenter"><span class="smcap">Entrance of the Columbia River.</span></p>
+<p class="figcenter"><small><i>Ship Tonquin, crossing the bar, 25th March 1811.</i></small></p>
+
+<p>Although it was calm, the sea continued to break over the reef with
+violence, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams. We sent Mr.
+Mumford (the second mate) to sound a passage; but having found the
+breakers too heavy, he returned on board about mid-day. Messrs. M'Kay
+and D. Stuart offered their services to go ashore, to search for the
+boat's crew who left on the 22d; but they could not find a place to
+land. They saw Indians, who made signs to them to pull round the cape,
+but they deemed it more prudent to return to the vessel. Soon after
+their return, a gentle breeze sprang up from the westward, we raised
+anchor, and approached the entrance of the river. Mr. Aikin was then
+despatched in the pinnace, accompanied by John Coles (sail-maker),
+Stephen Weeks (armorer), and two Sandwich-islanders; and we followed
+under easy sail. Another boat had been sent out before this one, but
+the captain judging that she bore too far south, made her a signal to
+return. Mr. Aikin not finding less than four fathoms, we followed him
+and advanced between the breakers, with a favorable wind, so that we
+passed the boat on our starboard, within pistol-shot. We made signs to
+her to return on board, but she could not accomplish it; the ebb tide
+carried her with such rapidity that in a few minutes we had lost sight
+of her amidst the tremendous breakers that surrounded us. It was near
+nightfall, the wind began to give way, and the water was so low with the
+ebb, that we struck six or seven times with violence: the breakers broke
+over the ship and threatened to submerge her. At last we passed from two
+and three quarters fathoms of water to seven, where we were obliged to
+drop anchor, the wind having entirely failed us. We were far, however,
+from being out of danger, and the darkness came to add to the horror of
+our situation: our vessel, though at anchor, threatened to be carried
+away every moment by the tide; the best bower was let go, and it kept
+two men at the wheel to hold her head in the right direction. However,
+Providence came to our succor: the flood succeeded to the ebb, and the
+wind rising out of the offing, we weighed both anchors, in spite of the
+obscurity of the night, and succeeded in gaining a little bay or cove,
+formed at the entrance of the river by Cape Disappointment, and called
+<i>Baker's Bay</i>, where we found a good anchorage. It was about midnight,
+and all retired to take a little rest: the crew, above all, had great
+need of it. We were fortunate to be in a place of safety, for the wind
+rose higher and higher during the rest of the night, and on the morning
+of the 25th allowed us to see that this ocean is not always pacific.</p>
+
+<p>Some natives visited us this day, bringing with them beaver-skins; but
+the inquietude caused in our minds by the loss of two boats' crews, for
+whom we wished to make search, did not permit us to think of traffic. We
+tried to make the savages comprehend, by signs, that we had sent a boat
+ashore three days previous, and that we had no news of her; but they
+seemed not to understand us. The captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, landed, and they set themselves to search for our missing
+people, in the woods, and along the shore N.W. of the cape. After a few
+hours we saw the captain return with Weeks, one of the crew of the last
+boat sent out. He was stark naked, and after being clothed, and
+receiving some nourishment, gave us an account of his almost miraculous
+escape from the waves on the preceding night, in nearly the following
+terms:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;After you had passed our boat;&quot; said he, &quot;the breakers caused by the
+meeting of the wind roll and ebb-tide, became a great deal heavier than
+when we entered the river with the flood. The boat, for want of a
+rudder, became very hard to manage, and we let her drift at the mercy of
+the tide, till, after having escaped several surges, one struck us
+midship and capsized us. I lost sight of Mr. Aiken and John Coles: but
+the two islanders were close by me; I saw them stripping off their
+clothes, and I followed their example; and seeing the pinnace within my
+reach, keel upward, I seized it; the two natives came to my assistance;
+we righted her, and by sudden jerks threw out so much of the water that
+she would hold a man: one of the natives jumped in, and, bailing with
+his two hands, succeeded in a short time in emptying her. The other
+native found the oars, and about dark we were all three embarked. The
+tide having now carried us outside the breakers, I endeavored to
+persuade my companions in misfortune to row, but they were so benumbed
+with cold that they absolutely refused. I well knew that without
+clothing, and exposed to the rigor of the air, I must keep in constant
+exercise. Seeing besides that the night was advancing, and having no
+resource but the little strength left me, I set to work sculling, and
+pushed off the bar, but so as not to be carried out too far to sea.
+About midnight, one of my companions died: the other threw himself upon
+the body of his comrade, and I could not persuade him to abandon it.
+Daylight appeared at last; and, being near the shore, I headed in for
+it, and arrived, thank God, safe and sound, through the breakers, on a
+sandy beach. I helped the islander, who yet gave some signs of life, to
+get out of the boat, and we both took to the woods; but, seeing that he
+was not able to follow me, I left him to his bad fortune, and, pursuing
+a beaten path that I perceived, I found myself, to my great
+astonishment, in the course of a few hours, near the vessel.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The gentlemen who went ashore with the captain divided themselves into
+three parties, to search for the native whom Weeks had left at the
+entrance of the forest; but, after scouring the woods and the point of
+the cape all day, they came on board in the evening without having found
+him.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.&mdash;Obsequies of
+     a Sandwich Islander.&mdash;First steps in the Formation of the intended
+     Establishment.&mdash;New Alarm.&mdash;Encampment.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The narrative of Weeks informed us of the death of three of our
+companions, and we could not doubt that the five others had met a
+similar fate. This loss of eight of our number, in two days, before we
+had set foot on shore, was a bad augury, and was sensibly felt by all of
+us. In the course of so long a passage, the habit of seeing each other
+every day, the participation of the same cares and dangers, and
+confinement to the same narrow limits, had formed between all the
+passengers a connection that could not be broken, above all in a manner
+so sad and so unlooked for, without making us feel a void like that
+which is experienced in a well-regulated and loving family, when it is
+suddenly deprived by death, of the presence of one of its cherished
+members. We had left New York, for the most part strangers to one
+another; but arrived at the river Columbia we were all friends, and
+regarded each other almost as brothers. We regretted especially the two
+brothers Lapens&eacute;e and Joseph Nadeau: these young men had been in an
+especial manner recommended by their respectable parents in Canada to
+the care of Mr. M'Kay; and had acquired by their good conduct the esteem
+of the captain, of the crew, and of all the passengers. The brothers
+Lapens&eacute;e were courageous and willing, never flinching in the hour of
+danger, and had become as good seamen as any on board. Messrs Fox and
+Aikin were both highly regarded by all; the loss of Mr. Fox, above all,
+who was endeared to every one by his gentlemanly behavior and
+affability, would have been severely regretted at any time, but it was
+doubly so in the present conjuncture: this gentleman, who had already
+made a voyage to the Northwest, could have rendered important services
+to the captain and to the company. The preceding days had been days of
+apprehension and of uneasiness; this was one of sorrow and mourning.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, the same gentlemen who had volunteered their services
+to seek for the missing islander, resumed their labors, and very soon
+after they left us, we perceived a great fire kindled at the verge of
+the woods, over against the ship. I was sent in a boat and arrived at
+the fire. It was our gentlemen who had kindled it, to restore animation
+to the poor islander, whom they had at last found under the rocks, half
+dead with cold and fatigue, his legs swollen and his feet bleeding. We
+clothed him, and brought him on board, where, by our care, we succeeded
+in restoring him to life.</p>
+
+<p>Toward evening, a number of the Sandwich-islanders, provided with the
+necessary utensils, and offerings consisting of biscuit, lard, and
+tobacco, went ashore, to pay the last duties to their compatriot, who
+died in Mr. Aikin's boat, on the night of the 24th. Mr. Pillet and I
+went with them, and witnessed the obsequies, which took place in the
+manner following. Arrived at the spot where the body had been hung upon
+a tree to preserve it from the wolves, the natives dug a grave in the
+sand; then taking down the body, and stretching it alongside the pit,
+they placed the biscuit under one of the arms, a piece of pork beneath
+the other, and the tobacco beneath the chin and the genital parts. Thus
+provided for the journey to the other world, the body was deposited in
+the grave and covered with sand and stones. All the countrymen of the
+dead man then knelt on either side of the grave, in a double row, with
+their faces to the east, except one of them who officiated as priest;
+the latter went to the margin of the sea, and having filled his hat with
+water, sprinkled the two rows of islanders, and recited a sort of
+prayer, to which the others responded, nearly as we do in the litanies.
+That prayer ended, they rose and returned to the vessel, looking neither
+to the right hand nor to the left. As every one of them appeared to me
+familiar with the part he performed, it is more than probable that they
+observed, as far as circumstances permitted, the ceremonies practised in
+their country on like occasions. We all returned on board about sundown.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, the 27th, desirous of clearing the gangways of the live
+stock; we sent some men on shore to construct a pen, and soon after
+landed about fifty hogs, committing them to the care of one of the
+hands. On the 30th, the long boat was manned, armed and provisioned, and
+the captain, with Messrs. M'Kay and D. Stuart, and some of the clerks,
+embarked on it, to ascend the river and choose an eligible spot for our
+trading establishment. Messrs. Boss and Pillet left at the same time, to
+run down south, and try to obtain intelligence of Mr. Fox and his crew.
+In the meantime, having reached some of the goods most at hand, we
+commenced, with the natives who came every day to the vessel, a trade
+for beaver-skins, and sea-otter stones.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Ross and Pillet returned on board on the 1st of April, without
+having learned anything respecting Mr. Fox and his party. They did not
+even perceive along the beach any vestiges of the boat. The natives who
+occupy Point <i>Adams</i>, and who are called <i>Clatsops</i>, received our young
+gentlemen very amicably and hospitably. The captain and his companions
+also returned on the 4th, without having decided on a position for the
+establishment, finding none which appeared to them eligible. It was
+consequently resolved to explore the south bank, and Messrs. M'Dougal
+and D. Stuart departed on that expedition the next day, promising to
+return by the 7th.</p>
+
+<p>The 7th came, and these gentlemen did not return. It rained almost all
+day. The day after, some natives came on board, and reported that
+Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart had capsized the evening before in crossing
+the bay. This news at first alarmed us; and, if it had been verified,
+would have given the finishing blow to our discouragement. Still, as the
+weather was excessively bad, and we did not repose entire faith in the
+story of the natives&mdash;whom, moreover, we might not have perfectly
+understood&mdash;we remained in suspense till the 10th. On the morning of
+that day, we were preparing to send some of the people in search of our
+two gentlemen, when we perceived two large canoes, full of Indians,
+coming toward the vessel: they were of the <i>Chinook</i> village, which was
+situated at the foot of a bluff on the north side of the river, and were
+bringing back Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart. We made known to these
+gentlemen the report we had heard on the 8th from the natives, and they
+informed us that it had been in fact well founded; that on the 7th,
+desirous of reaching the ship agreeably to their promise, they had
+quitted <i>Chinook</i> point, in spite of the remonstrances of the chief,
+<i>Comcomly</i>, who sought to detain them by pointing out the danger to
+which they would expose themselves in crossing the bay in such a heavy
+sea as it was; that they had scarcely made more than a mile and a half
+before a huge wave broke over their boat and capsized it; that the
+Indians, aware of the danger to which they were exposed, had followed
+them, and that, but for their assistance, Mr. M'Dougal, who could not
+swim, would inevitably have been drowned; that, after the Chinooks had
+kindled a large fire and dried their clothes, they had been conducted by
+them back to their village, where the principal chief had received them
+with all imaginable hospitality, regaling them with every delicacy his
+wigwam afforded; that, in fine, if they had got back safe and sound to
+the vessel, it was to the timely succor and humane cares of the Indians
+whom we saw before us that they owed it. We liberally rewarded these
+generous children of the forest, and they returned home well satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>This last survey was also fruitless, as Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart did
+not find an advantageous site to build upon. But, as the captain wished
+to take advantage of the fine season to pursue his traffic with the
+natives along the N.W. coast, it was resolved to establish ourselves on
+Point <i>George</i>, situated on the south bank, about fourteen or fifteen
+miles from our present anchorage. Accordingly, we embarked on the 12th,
+in the long-boat, to the number of twelve, furnished with tools, and
+with provisions for a week. We landed at the bottom of a small bay,
+where we formed a sort of encampment. The spring, usually so tardy in
+this latitude, was already far advanced; the foliage was budding, and
+the earth was clothing itself with verdure; the weather was superb, and
+all nature smiled. We imagined ourselves in the garden of Eden; the wild
+forests seemed to us delightful groves, and the leaves transformed to
+brilliant flowers. No doubt, the pleasure of finding ourselves at the
+end of our voyage, and liberated from the ship, made things appear to us
+a great deal more beautiful than they really were. Be that as it may, we
+set ourselves to work with enthusiasm, and cleared, in a few days, a
+point of land of its under-brush, and of the huge trunks of pine-trees
+that covered it, which we rolled, half-burnt, down the bank. The vessel
+came to moor near our encampment, and the trade went on. The natives
+visited us constantly and in great numbers; some to trade, others to
+gratify their curiosity, or to purloin some little articles if they
+found an opportunity. We landed the frame timbers which we had brought,
+ready cut for the purpose, in the vessel; and by the end of April, with
+the aid of the ship-carpenters, John Weeks and Johann Koaster, we had
+laid the keel of a coasting-schooner of about thirty tons.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Voyage up the River.&mdash;Description of the Country.&mdash;Meeting with
+     strange Indians.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The Indians having informed us that above certain rapids, there was an
+establishment of white men, we doubted not that it was a trading post of
+the Northwest Company; and to make sure of it, we procured a large canoe
+and a guide, and set out, on the 2d of May, Messrs M'Kay, R. Stuart,
+Montigny, and I, with a sufficient number of hands. We first passed a
+lofty head-land, that seemed at a distance to be detached from the main,
+and to which we gave the name of <i>Tongue Point</i>. Here the river gains a
+width of some nine or ten miles, and keeps it for about twelve miles up.
+The left bank, which we were coasting, being concealed by little low
+islands, we encamped for the night on one of them, at the village of
+<i>Wahkaykum</i>, to which our guide belonged.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our journey on the 3d: the river narrows considerably, at
+about thirty miles from its mouth, and is obstructed with islands, which
+are thickly covered with the willow, poplar, alder, and ash. These
+islands are, without exception, uninhabited and uninhabitable, being
+nothing but swamps, and entirely overflowed in the months of June and
+July; as we understood from <i>Coalpo</i>, our guide, who appeared to be an
+intelligent man. In proportion as we advanced, we saw the high mountains
+capped with snow, which form the chief and majestic feature, though a
+stern one, of the banks of the Columbia for some distance from its
+mouth, recede, and give place to a country of moderate elevation, and
+rising amphitheatrically from the margin of the stream. The river
+narrows to a mile or thereabouts; the forest is less dense, and patches
+of green prairie are seen. We passed a large village on the south bank,
+called <i>Kreluit</i>, above which is a fine forest of oaks; and encamped
+for the night, on a low point, at the foot of an isolated rock, about
+one hundred and fifty feet high. This rock appeared to me remarkable on
+account of its situation, reposing in the midst of a low and swampy
+ground, as if it had been dropped from the clouds, and seeming to have
+no connection with the neighboring mountains. On a cornice or shelving
+projection about thirty feet from its base, the natives of the adjacent
+villages deposite their dead, in canoes; and it is the same rock to
+which, for this reason, Lieutenant Broughton gave the name of <i>Mount
+Coffin</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th, in the morning, we arrived at a large village of the same
+name as that which we had passed the evening before, <i>Kreluit</i>, and we
+landed to obtain information respecting a considerable stream, which
+here discharges into the Columbia, and respecting its resources for the
+hunter and trader in furs. It comes from the north, and is called
+<i>Cowlitzk</i> by the natives. Mr. M'Kay embarked with Mr. de Montigny and
+two Indians, in a small canoe, to examine the course of this river, a
+certain distance up. On entering the stream, they saw a great number of
+birds, which they took at first for turkeys, so much they resembled
+them, but which were only a kind of carrion eagles, vulgarly called
+<i>turkey-buzzards</i>. We were not a little astonished to see Mr. de
+Montigny return on foot and alone; he soon informed us of the reason:
+having ascended the <i>Kowlitzk</i> about a mile and a half, on rounding a
+bend of the stream, they suddenly came in view of about twenty canoes,
+full of Indians, who had made a rush upon them with the most frightful
+yells; the two natives and the guide who conducted their little canoe,
+retreated with the utmost precipitancy, but seeing that they would be
+overtaken, they stopped short, and begged Mr. M'Kay to fire upon the
+approaching savages, which he, being well acquainted with the Indian
+character from the time he accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, and
+having met with similar occurrences before, would by no means do; but
+displayed a friendly sign to the astonished natives, and invited them to
+land for an amicable talk; to which they immediately assented. Mr.
+M'Kay had sent Mr. de Montigny to procure some tobacco and a pipe, in
+order to strike a peace with these barbarians. The latter then returned
+to Mr. M'Kay, with the necessary articles, and in the evening the party
+came back to our camp, which we had fixed between the villages. We were
+then informed that the Indians whom Mr. M'Kay had met, were at war with
+the <i>Kreluits</i>. It was impossible, consequently, to close our eyes all
+night; the natives passing and repassing continually from one village to
+the other, making fearful cries, and coming every minute to solicit us
+to discharge our firearms; all to frighten their enemies, and let them
+see that they were on their guard.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th, in the morning, we paid a visit to the hostile camp; and
+those savages, who had never seen white men, regarded us with curiosity
+and astonishment, lifting the legs of our trowsers and opening our
+shirts, to see if the skin of our bodies resembled that of our faces and
+hands. We remained some time with them, to make proposals of peace; and
+having ascertained that this warlike demonstration originated in a
+trifling offence on the part of the <i>Kreluits</i>, we found them well
+disposed to arrange matters in an amicable fashion. After having given
+them, therefore, some looking-glasses, beads, knives, tobacco, and other
+trifles, we quitted them and pursued our way.</p>
+
+<p>Having passed a deserted village, and then several islands, we came in
+sight of a noble mountain on the north, about twenty miles distant, all
+covered with snow, contrasting remarkably with the dark foliage of the
+forests at its base, and probably the same which was seen by Broughton,
+and named by him <i>Mount St. Helen's</i>. We pulled against a strong current
+all this day, and at evening our guide made us enter a little river, on
+the bank of which we found a good camping place, under a grove of oaks,
+and in the midst of odoriferous wild flowers, where we passed a night
+more tranquil than that which had preceded it.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 6th we ascended this small stream, and soon
+arrived at a large village called <i>Thlakalamah</i>, the chief whereof, who
+was a young and handsome man, was called <i>Keasseno</i>, and was a relative
+of our guide. The situation of this village is the most charming that
+can be, being built on the little river that we had ascended, and indeed
+at its navigable head, being here, but a torrent with numerous cascades
+leaping from rock to rock in their descent to the deep, limpid water,
+which then flows through a beautiful prairie, enamelled with odorous
+flowers of all colors, and studded with superb groves of oak. The
+freshness and beauty of this spot, which Nature seemed to have taken
+pleasure in adorning and enriching with her most precious gifts,
+contrasted, in a striking manner, with the indigence and uncleanliness
+of its inhabitants; and I regretted that it had not fallen to the lot of
+civilized men. I was wrong no doubt: it is just that those should be
+most favored by their common mother, who are least disposed to pervert
+her gifts, or to give the preference to advantages which are factitious,
+and often very frivolous. We quitted with regret this charming spot,
+and soon came to another large village, which our guide informed us was
+called <i>Kathlapootle</i>, and was situated at the confluence of a small
+stream, that seemed to flow down from the mountain covered with snow,
+which we had seen the day before: this river is called <i>Cowilkt</i>. We
+coasted a pretty island, well timbered, and high enough above the level
+of the Columbia to escape inundation in the freshets, and arrived at two
+villages called <i>Maltnabah</i>. We then passed the confluence of the river
+<i>Wallamat</i>, or <i>Willamet</i>, above which the tide ceases to be felt in the
+Columbia. Our guide informed us that ascending this river about a day's
+journey, there was a considerable fall, beyond which the country
+abounded in deer, elk, bear, beaver, and otter. But here, at the spot
+where we were, the oaks and poplar which line both banks of the river,
+the green and flowery prairies discerned through the trees, and the
+mountains discovered in the distance, offer to the eye of the observer
+who loves the beauties of simple nature, a prospect the most lovely and
+enchanting. We encamped for the night on the edge of one of these fine
+prairies.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th we passed several low islands, and soon discovered <i>Mount
+Hood</i>, a high mountain, capped with snow, so named by Lieutenant
+Broughton; and <i>Mount Washington</i>, another snowy summit, so called by
+Lewis and Clarke. The prospect which the former had before his eyes at
+this place, appeared to him so charming, that landing upon a point, to
+take possession of the country in the name of King George, he named it
+<i>Pointe Belle Vue</i>. At two o'clock we passed <i>Point Vancouver</i>, the
+highest reached by Broughton. The width of the river diminishes
+considerably above this point, and we began very soon to encounter
+shoals of sand and gravel; a sure indication that we were nearing the
+rapids. We encamped that evening under a ledge of rocks, descending
+almost to the water's edge.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, the 8th, we did not proceed far before we encountered a
+very rapid current. Soon after, we saw a hut of Indians engaged in
+fishing, where we stopped to breakfast. We found here an old blind man,
+who gave us a cordial reception. Our guide said that he was a white man,
+and that his name was <i>Soto</i>. We learned from the mouth of the old man
+himself, that he was the son of a Spaniard who had been wrecked at the
+mouth of the river; that a part of the crew on this occasion got safe
+ashore, but were all massacred by the Clatsops, with the exception of
+four, who were spared and who married native women; that these four
+Spaniards, of whom his father was one, disgusted with the savage life,
+attempted to reach a settlement of their own nation toward the south,
+but had never been heard of since; and that when his father, with his
+companions, left the country, he himself was yet quite young.<a name="FNanchor_H_8" id="FNanchor_H_8" /><a href="#Footnote_H_8" class="fnanchor">[H]</a> These
+good people having regaled us with fresh salmon, we left them, and
+arrived very soon at a rapid, opposite an island, named <i>Strawberry
+Island</i> by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1806. We left our men at a
+large village, to take care of the canoe and baggage; and following our
+guide, after walking about two hours, in a beaten path, we came to the
+foot of the fall, where we amused ourselves for some time with shooting
+the seals, which were here in abundance, and in watching the Indians
+taking salmon below the cataract, in their scoop-nets, from stages
+erected for that purpose over the eddies. A chief, a young man of fine
+person and a good mien, came to us, followed by some twenty others, and
+invited us to his wigwam: we accompanied him, had roasted salmon for
+supper, and some mats were spread for our night's repose.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, having ascertained that there was no trading post near
+the Falls, and Coalpo absolutely refusing to proceed further, alleging
+that the natives of the villages beyond were his enemies, and would not
+fail to kill him if they had him in their power, we decided to return to
+the encampment. Having, therefore, distributed some presents to our host
+(I mean the young chief with whom we had supped and lodged) and to some
+of his followers, and procured a supply of fresh salmon for the return
+voyage, we re-embarked and reached the camp on the 14th, without
+accidents or incidents worth relating.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure of the Tonquin.&mdash;Indian Messengers.&mdash;Project of an
+     Expedition to the Interior.&mdash;Arrival of Mr. Daniel
+     Thompson.&mdash;Departure of the Expedition.&mdash;Designs upon us by the
+     Natives.&mdash;Rumors of the Destruction of the Tonquin.&mdash;Scarcity of
+     Provisions.&mdash;Narrative of a strange Indian.&mdash;Duplicity and Cunning
+     of Comcomly.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Having built a warehouse (62 feet by 20) to put under cover the articles
+we were to receive from the ship, we were busily occupied, from the 16th
+to the 30th, in stowing away the goods and other effects intended for
+the establishment.</p>
+
+<p>The ship, which had been detained by circumstances, much longer than had
+been anticipated, left her anchorage at last, on the 1st of June, and
+dropped down to Baker's bay, there to wait for a favorable wind to get
+out of the river. As she was to coast along the north, and enter all the
+harbors, in order to procure as many furs as possible, and to touch at
+the Columbia river before she finally left these seas for the United
+States, it was unanimously resolved among the partners, that Mr. M'Kay
+should join the cruise, as well to aid the captain, as to obtain correct
+information in regard to the commerce with the natives on that coast.
+Mr. M'Kay selected Messrs. J. Lewis and O. de Montigny to accompany him;
+but the latter having represented that the sea made him sick, was
+excused; and Mr. M'Kay shipped in his place a young man named Louis
+Brusl&eacute;, to serve him in the capacity of domestic, being one of the young
+Canadian sailors. I had the good fortune not to be chosen for this
+disastrous voyage, thanks to my having made myself useful at the
+establishment. Mr. Mumford (the second mate) owed the same happiness to
+the incompatibility of his disposition with that of the captain; he had
+permission to remain, and engaged with the company in place of Mr. Aikin
+as coaster, and in command of the schooner.<a name="FNanchor_I_9" id="FNanchor_I_9" /><a href="#Footnote_I_9" class="fnanchor">[I]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of June, the ship got out to sea, with a good wind. We
+continued in the meantime to labor without intermission at the
+completion of the storehouse, and in the erection of a dwelling for
+ourselves, and a powder magazine. These buildings were constructed of
+hewn logs, and, in the absence of boards, tightly covered and roofed
+with cedar bark. The natives, of both sexes, visited us more frequently,
+and formed a pretty considerable camp near the establishment.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th, some natives from up the river, brought us two strange
+Indians, a man and a woman. They were not attired like the savages on
+the river Columbia, but wore long robes of dressed deer-skin, with
+leggings and moccasins in the fashion of the tribes to the east of the
+Rocky Mountains. We put questions to them in various Indian dialects;
+but they did not understand us. They showed us a letter addressed to
+&quot;<i>Mr. John Stuart, Fort Estekatadene, New Caledonia</i>.&quot; Mr. Pillet then
+addressing them in the <i>Knisteneaux</i> language, they answered, although
+they appeared not to understand it perfectly. Notwithstanding, we
+learned from them that they had been sent by a Mr. Finnan M'Donald, a
+clerk in the service of the Northwest Company, and who had a post on a
+river which they called <i>Spokan</i>; that having lost their way, they had
+followed the course of the <i>Tacousah-Tesseh</i> (the Indian name of the
+Columbia), that when they arrived at the Falls, the natives made them
+understand that there were white men at the mouth of the river; and not
+doubting that the person to whom the letter was addressed would be found
+there, they had come to deliver it.</p>
+
+<p>We kept these messengers for some days, and having drawn from them
+important information respecting the country in the interior, west of
+the Mountains, we decided to send an expedition thither, under the
+command of Mr. David Stuart; and the 15th July was fixed for its
+departure.</p>
+
+<p>All was in fact ready on the appointed day, and we were about to load
+the canoes, when toward midday, we saw a large canoe, with a flag
+displayed at her stern, rounding the point which we called <i>Tongue
+Point</i>. We knew not who it could be; for we did not so soon expect our
+own party, who (as the reader will remember) were to cross the
+continent, by the route which Captains Lewis and Clarke had followed, in
+1805, and to winter for that purpose somewhere on the Missouri. We were
+soon relieved of our uncertainty by the arrival of the canoe, which
+touched shore at a little wharf that we had built to facilitate the
+landing of goods from the vessel. The flag she bore was the British, and
+her crew was composed of eight Canadian boatmen or <i>voyageurs</i>. A
+well-dressed man, who appeared to be the commander, was the first to
+leap ashore, and addressing us without ceremony, said that his name was
+David Thompson, and that he was one of the partners of the Northwest
+Company. We invited him to our quarters, which were at one end of the
+warehouse, the dwelling-house not being yet completed. After the usual
+civilities had been extended to our visitor, Mr. Thompson said that he
+had crossed the continent during the preceding season; but that the
+desertion of a portion of his men had compelled him to winter at the
+base of the Rocky mountains, at the head waters of the Columbia. In the
+spring he had built a canoe, the materials for which he had brought with
+him across the mountains, and had come down the river to our
+establishment. He added that the wintering partners had resolved to
+abandon all their trading posts west of the mountains, not to enter into
+competition with us, provided our company would engage not to encroach
+upon their commerce on the east side: and to support what he said,
+produced a letter to that effect, addressed by the wintering partners to
+the chief of their house in Canada, the Hon. William M'Gillivray.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Thompson kept a regular journal, and travelled, I thought, more like
+a geographer than a fur-trader. He was provided with a sextant,
+chronometer and barometer, and during a week's sojourn which he made at
+our place, had an opportunity to make several astronomical
+observations. He recognised the two Indians who had brought the letter
+addressed to Mr. J. Stuart, and told us that they were two women, one of
+whom had dressed herself as a man, to travel with more security. The
+description which he gave us of the interior of the country was not
+calculated to give us a very favorable idea of it, and did not perfectly
+accord with that of our two Indian guests. We persevered, however, in
+the resolution we had taken, of sending an expedition thither; and, on
+the 23d Mr. D. Stuart set out, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Boss,
+M'Clellan and de Montigny, with four Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>, and the two
+Indian women, and in company with Mr. Thompson and his crew. The wind
+being favorable, the little flotilla hoisted sail, and was soon out of
+our sight.<a name="FNanchor_J_10" id="FNanchor_J_10" /><a href="#Footnote_J_10" class="fnanchor">[J]</a></p>
+
+<p>The natives, who till then had surrounded us in great numbers, began to
+withdraw, and very soon we saw no more of them. At first we attributed
+their absence to the want of furs to trade with; but we soon learned
+that they acted in that manner from another motive. One of the secondary
+chiefs who had formed a friendship for Mr. R. Stuart, informed him, that
+seeing us reduced in number by the expedition lately sent off, they had
+formed the design of surprising us, to take our lives and plunder the
+post. We hastened, therefore, to put ourselves in the best possible
+state of defence. The dwelling house was raised, parallel to the
+warehouse; we cut a great quantity of pickets in the forest, and formed
+a square, with palisades in front and rear, of about 90 feet by 120; the
+warehouse, built on the edge of a ravine, formed one flank, the dwelling
+house and shops the other; with a little bastion at each angle north
+and south, on which were mounted four small cannon. The whole was
+finished in six days, and had a sufficiently formidable aspect to deter
+the Indians from attacking us; and for greater surety, we organized a
+guard for day and night.</p>
+
+<p>Toward the end of the month, a large assemblage of Indians from the
+neighborhood of the straits <i>Juan de Fuca</i>, and <i>Gray's Harbor</i>, formed
+a great camp on Baker's Bay, for the ostensible object of fishing for
+sturgeon. It was bruited among these Indians that the Tonquin had been
+destroyed on the coast, and Mr. M'Kay (or the chief trader, as they
+called him) and all the crew, massacred by the natives. We did not give
+credence to this rumor. Some days after, other Indians from Gray's
+Harbor, called <i>Tchikeylis</i>, confirmed what the first had narrated, and
+even gave us, as far as we could judge by the little we knew of their
+language, a very circumstantial detail of the affair, so that without
+wholly convincing us, it did not fail to make a painful impression on
+our minds, and keep us in an excited state of feeling as to the truth
+of the report. The Indians of the Bay looked fiercer and more warlike
+than those of our neighborhood; so we redoubled our vigilance, and
+performed a regular daily drill to accustom ourselves to the use of
+arms.</p>
+
+<p>To the necessity of securing ourselves against an attack on the part of
+the natives, was joined that of obtaining a stock of provisions for the
+winter: those which we had received from the vessel were very quickly
+exhausted, and from the commencement of the month of July we were forced
+to depend upon fish. Not having brought hunters with us, we had to rely
+for venison, on the precarious hunt of one of the natives who had not
+abandoned us when the rest of his countrymen retired. This man brought
+us from time to time, a very lean and very dry doe-elk, for which we had
+to pay, notwithstanding, very dear. The ordinary price of a stag was a
+blanket, a knife, some tobacco, powder and ball, besides supplying our
+hunter with a musket. This dry meat, and smoke-dried fish, constituted
+our daily food, and that in very insufficient quantity for hardworking
+men. &quot;We had no bread, and vegetables, of course, were quite out of the
+question. In a word our fare was not sumptuous. Those who accommodated
+themselves best to our mode of living were the Sandwich-islanders:
+salmon and elk were to them exquisite viands.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th of August a number of Chinooks visited us, bringing a
+strange Indian, who had, they said, something interesting to
+communicate. This savage told us, in fact, that he had been engaged with
+ten more of his countrymen, by a Captain <i>Ayres</i>, to hunt seals on the
+islands in <i>Sir Francis Drake's Bay</i>, where these animals are very
+numerous, with a promise of being taken home and paid for their
+services; the captain had left them on the islands, to go southwardly
+and purchase provisions, he said, of the Spaniards of Monterey in
+California; but he had never returned: and they, believing that he had
+been wrecked, had embarked in a skiff which he had left them, and had
+reached the main land, from which they were not far distant; but their
+skiff was shattered to pieces in the surf, and they had saved
+themselves by swimming. Believing that they were not far from the river
+Columbia, they had followed the shore, living, on the way, upon
+shell-fish and frogs; at last they arrived among strange Indians, who,
+far from receiving them kindly, had killed eight of them and made the
+rest prisoners; but the <i>Klemooks</i>, a neighboring tribe to the
+<i>Clatsops</i>, hearing that they were captives, had ransomed them.</p>
+
+<p>These facts must have occurred in March or April, 1811. The Indian who
+gave us an account of them, appeared to have a great deal of
+intelligence and knew some words of the English language. He added that
+he had been at the Russian trading post at <i>Chitka</i>, that he had visited
+the coast of California, the Sandwich islands, and even China.</p>
+
+<p>About this time, old Comcomly sent to <i>Astoria</i> for Mr. Stuart and me,
+to come and cure him of a swelled throat, which, he said, afflicted him
+sorely. As it was late in the day, we postponed till to-morrow going to
+cure the chief of the Chinooks; and it was well we did; for, the same
+evening, the wife of the Indian who had accompanied us in our voyage to
+the Falls, sent us word that Comcomly was perfectly well, the pretended
+<i>tonsillitis</i> being only a pretext to get us in his power. This timely
+advice kept us at home.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Occupations at Astoria.&mdash;Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+     Expedition to the Interior.&mdash;New Expedition.&mdash;Excursion in Search
+     of three Deserters.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 26th of September our house was finished, and we took possession
+of it. The mason work had at first caused us some difficulty; but at
+last, not being able to make lime for want of lime-stones, we employed
+blue clay as a substitute for mortar. This dwelling-house was
+sufficiently spacious to hold all our company, and we had distributed it
+in the most convenient manner that we could. It comprised a sitting, a
+dining room, some lodging or sleeping rooms, and an apartment for the
+men and artificers, all under the same roof. We also completed a shop
+for the blacksmith, who till that time had worked in the open air.</p>
+
+<p>The schooner, the construction of which had necessarily languished for
+want of an adequate force at the ship-yard, was finally launched on the
+2d of October, and named the <i>Dolly</i>, with the formalities usual on such
+occasions. I was on that day at <i>Young's Bay</i>, where I saw the ruins of
+the quarters erected by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1805-'06: they
+were but piles of rough, unhewn logs, overgrown with parasite creepers.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 5th, Messrs. Pillet and M'Lellan arrived, from the
+party of Mr. David Stuart, in a canoe manned by two of his men. They
+brought, as passengers, Mr. R&eacute;gis Bruguier, whom I had known in Canada
+as a respectable country merchant, and an Iroquois family. Mr. Bruguier
+had been a trader among the Indians on the Saskatchawine river, where he
+had lost his outfit: he had since turned trapper, and had come into this
+region to hunt beaver, being provided with traps and other needful
+implements. The report which these gentlemen gave of the interior was
+highly satisfactory: they had found the climate salubrious, and had
+been well received by the natives. The latter possessed a great number
+of horses, and Mr. Stuart had purchased several of these animals at a
+low price. Ascending the river they had come to a pretty stream, which
+the natives called <i>Okenakan</i>. Mr. Stuart had resolved to establish his
+post on the bank of this river, and having erected a log-house, he
+thought best to send back the above named persons, retaining with him,
+for the winter, only Messrs. Ross and de Montigny, and two men.<a name="FNanchor_K_11" id="FNanchor_K_11" /><a href="#Footnote_K_11" class="fnanchor">[K]</a></p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the season being come when the Indians quit the seashore and
+the banks of the Columbia, to retire into the woods and establish their
+winter quarters along the small streams and rivers, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, having received no supplies from them for
+some time. It was therefore determined that Mr. R. Stuart should set out
+in the schooner with Mr. Mumford, for the threefold purpose, of
+obtaining all the provisions they could, cutting oaken staves for the
+use of the cooper, and trading with the Indians up the river. They left
+with this design on the 12th. At the end of five days Mr. Mumford
+returned in a canoe of Indians. This man having wished to assume the
+command, and to order (in the style of Captain Thorn) the person who had
+engaged him to obey, had been sent back in consequence to <i>Astoria</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th of November we discovered that three of our people had
+absconded, viz., P.D. Jeremie, and the two Belleaux. They had leave to
+go out shooting for two days, and carried off with them firearms and
+ammunition, and a handsome light Indian canoe. As soon as their flight
+was known, having procured a large canoe of the Chinooks, we embarked,
+Mr. Matthews and I, with five natives, to pursue them, with orders to
+proceed as far as the Falls, if necessary. On the 11th, having ascended
+the river to a place called <i>Oak Point</i>, we overtook the schooner lying
+at anchor, while Mr. Stuart was taking in a load of staves and
+hoop-poles. Mr. Farnham joined our party, as well as one of the hands,
+and thus reinforced, we pursued our way, journeying day and night, and
+stopping at every Indian village, to make inquiries and offer a reward
+for the apprehension of our runaways. Having reached the Falls without
+finding any trace of them, and our provisions giving out, we retraced
+our steps, and arrived on the 16th at Oak Point, which we found Mr.
+Stuart ready to quit.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the natives of the vicinity informed us that they had seen
+the marks of shoes imprinted on the sand, at the confluence of a small
+stream in the neighborhood. We got three small canoes, carrying two
+persons each, and having ascertained that the information was correct,
+after searching the environs during a part of the 17th, we ascended the
+small stream as far as some high lands which are seen from Oak Point,
+and which lie about eight or nine miles south of it. The space between
+these high lands and the ridge crowned with oaks on the bank of the
+Columbia, is a low and swampy land, cut up by an infinity of little
+channels. Toward evening we returned on our path, to regain the
+schooner; but instead of taking the circuitous way of the river, by
+which we had come, we made for Oak Point by the most direct route,
+through these channels; but night coming on, we lost ourselves. Our
+situation became the most disagreeable that can be imagined. Being
+unable to find a place where we could land, on account of the morass, we
+were obliged to continue rowing, or rather turning round, in this
+species of labyrinth, constantly kneeling in our little canoes, which
+any unlucky movement would infallibly have caused to upset. It rained in
+torrents and was dark as pitch. At last, after having wandered about
+during a considerable part of the night, we succeeded in gaining the
+edge of the mainland. Leaving there our canoes, because we could not
+drag them (as we attempted) through the forest, we crossed the woods in
+the darkness, tearing ourselves with the brush, and reached the
+schooner, at about two in the morning, benumbed with cold and exhausted
+with fatigue.</p>
+
+<p>The 18th was spent in getting in the remainder of the lading of the
+little vessel, and on the morning of the 19th we raised anchor, and
+dropped down abreast of the Kreluit village, where some of the Indians
+offering to aid us in the search after our deserters, Mr. Stuart put Mr.
+Farnham and me on shore to make another attempt. We passed that day in
+drying our clothes, and the next day embarked in a canoe, with one
+<i>Kreluit</i> man and a squaw, and ascended the river before described as
+entering the Columbia at this place. We soon met a canoe of natives, who
+informed us that our runaways had been made prisoners by the chief of a
+tribe which dwells upon the banks of the Willamet river, and which they
+called <i>Cathlanaminim</i>. We kept on and encamped on a beach of sand
+opposite <i>Deer island</i>. There we passed a night almost as disagreeable
+as that of the 17th-18th. We had lighted a fire, and contrived a shelter
+of mats; but there came on presently a violent gust of wind, accompanied
+with a heavy rain: our fire was put out, our mats were carried away, and
+we could neither rekindle the one nor find the others: so that we had
+to remain all night exposed to the fury of the storm. As soon as it was
+day we re-embarked, and set ourselves to paddling with all our might to
+warm ourselves. In the evening we arrived near the village where our
+deserters were, and saw one of them on the skirts of it. We proceeded to
+the hut of the chief, where we found all three, more inclined to follow
+us than to remain as slaves among these barbarians. We passed the night
+in the chief's lodge, not without some fear and some precaution; this
+chief having the reputation of being a wicked man, and capable of
+violating the rights of parties. He was a man of high stature and a good
+mien, and proud in proportion, as we discovered by the chilling and
+haughty manner in which he received us. Farnham and I agreed to keep
+watch alternately, but this arrangement was superfluous, as neither of
+us could sleep a wink for the infernal thumping and singing made by the
+medicine men all night long, by a dying native. I had an opportunity of
+seeing the sick man make his last will and testament: having caused to
+be brought to him whatever he had that was most precious, his bracelets
+of copper, his bead necklace, his bow and arrows and quiver, his nets,
+his lines, his spear, his pipe, &amp;c., he distributed the whole to his
+most intimate friends, with a promise on their part, to restore them, if
+he recovered.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22d, after a great deal of talk, and infinite quibbling on the
+part of the chief, we agreed with him for the ransom of our men. I had
+visited every lodge in the village and found but few of the young men,
+the greater part having gone on a fishing excursion; knowing, therefore,
+that the chief could not be supported by his warriors, I was resolved
+not be imposed upon, and as I knew where the firearms of the fugitives
+had been deposited, I would have them at all hazards; but we were
+obliged to give him all our blankets, amounting to eight, a brass
+kettle, a hatchet, a small pistol, much out of order, a powder-horn, and
+some rounds of ammunition: with these articles placed in a pile before
+him, we demanded the men's clothing, the three fowling-pieces, and
+their canoe, which he had caused to be hidden in the woods. Nothing but
+our firmness compelled him to accept the articles offered in exchange;
+but at last, with great reluctance, he closed the bargain, and suffered
+us to depart in the evening with the prisoners and the property.</p>
+
+<p>We all five (including the three deserters) embarked in the large canoe,
+leaving our Kreluit and his wife to follow in the other, and proceeded
+as far as the Cowlitzk, where we camped. The next day, we pursued our
+journey homeward, only stopping at the Kreluit village to get some
+provisions, and soon entered the group of islands which crowd the river
+above Gray's bay. On one of these we stopped to amuse ourselves with
+shooting some ducks, and meanwhile a smart breeze springing up, we split
+open a double-rush mat (which had served as a bag), to make a sail, and
+having cut a forked sapling for a mast, shipped a few boulders to stay
+the foot of it, and spread our canvass to the wind. We soon arrived in
+sight of Gray's bay, at a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles from our
+establishment. We had, notwithstanding, a long passage across, the
+river forming in this place, as I have before observed, a sort of lake,
+by the recession of its shores on either hand: but the wind was fair. We
+undertook, then, to cross, and quitted the island, to enter the broad,
+lake-like expanse, just as the sun was going down, hoping to reach
+Astoria in a couple of hours.</p>
+
+<p>We were not long before we repented of our temerity: for in a short time
+the sky became overcast, the wind increased till it blew with violence,
+and meeting with the tide, caused the waves to rise prodigiously, which
+broke over our wretched canoe, and filled it with water. We lightened it
+as much as we could, by throwing overboard the little baggage we had
+left, and I set the men to baling with our remaining brass kettle. At
+last, after having been, for three hours, the sport of the raging
+billows, and threatened every instant with being swallowed up, we had
+the unexpected happiness of landing in a cove on the north shore of the
+river. Our first care was to thank the Almighty for having delivered us
+from so imminent a danger. Then, when we had secured the canoe, and
+groped our way to the forest, where we made, with branches of trees, a
+shelter against the wind&mdash;still continuing to blow with violence, and
+kindled a great fire to warm us and dry our clothes. That did not
+prevent us from shivering the rest of the night, even in congratulating
+ourselves on the happiness of setting our foot on shore at the moment
+when we began quite to despair of saving ourselves at all.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 24th brought with it a clear sky, but no abatement in
+the violence of the wind, till toward evening, when we again embarked,
+and arrived with our deserters at the establishment, where they never
+expected to see us again. Some Indians who had followed us in a canoe,
+up to the moment when we undertook the passage across the evening
+before, had followed the southern shore, and making the portage of the
+isthmus of Tongue Point, had happily arrived at Astoria. These natives,
+not doubting that we were lost, so reported us to Mr. M'Dougal;
+accordingly that gentleman was equally overjoyed and astonished at
+beholding us safely landed, which procured, not only for us, but for the
+culprits, our companions, a cordial and hearty reception.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.&mdash;Occupations at
+     Astoria.&mdash;Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+     M'Lellan.&mdash;Account of their Journey.&mdash;Arrival of Mr. Wilson P.
+     Hunt.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The natives having given us to understand that beaver was very abundant
+in the country watered by the Willamet, Mr. R. Stuart procured a guide,
+and set out, on the 5th of December, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet and
+M'Gillis and a few of the men, to ascend that river and ascertain
+whether or no it would be advisable to establish a trading-post on its
+banks. Mr. R. Bruguier accompanied them to follow his pursuits as a
+trapper.</p>
+
+<p>The season at which we expected the return of the Tonquin was now past,
+and we began to regard as too probable the report of the Indians of
+Gray's Harbor. We still flattered ourselves, notwithstanding, with the
+hope that perhaps that vessel had sailed for the East Indies, without
+touching at Astoria; but this was at most a conjecture.</p>
+
+<p>The 25th, Christmas-day, passed very agreeably: we treated the men, on
+that day, with the best the establishment afforded. Although that was no
+great affair, they seemed well satisfied; for they had been restricted,
+during the last few months, to a very meagre diet, living, as one may
+say, on sun-dried fish. On the 27th, the schooner having returned from
+her second voyage up the river, we dismantled her, and laid her up for
+the winter at the entrance of a small creek.</p>
+
+<p>The weather, which had been raining, almost without interruption, from
+the beginning of October, cleared up on the evening of the 31st; and the
+1st January, 1812, brought us a clear and serene sky. We proclaimed the
+new year with a discharge of artillery. A small allowance of spirits was
+served to the men, and the day passed in gayety, every one amusing
+himself as well as he could.</p>
+
+<p>The festival over, our people resumed their ordinary occupations: while
+some cut timber for building, and others made charcoal for the
+blacksmith, the carpenter constructed a barge, and the cooper made
+barrels for the use of the posts we proposed to establish in the
+interior. On the 18th, in the evening, two canoes full of white men
+arrived at the establishment. Mr. M'Dougal, the resident agent, being
+confined to his room by sickness, the duty of receiving the strangers
+devolved on me. My astonishment was not slight, when one of the party
+called me by name, as he extended his hand, and I recognised Mr. Donald
+M'Kenzie, the same who had quitted Montreal, with Mr. W.P. Hunt, in the
+month of July, 1810. He was accompanied by a Mr. Robert M'Lellan, a
+partner, Mr. John Reed, a clerk, and eight <i>voyageurs</i>, or boatmen.
+After having reposed themselves a little from their fatigues, these
+gentlemen recounted to us the history of their journey, of which the
+following is the substance.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie, quitting Canada, proceeded by way of
+Mackinac and St. Louis, and ascended the Missouri, in the autumn of
+1810, to a place on that river called <i>Nadoway</i>, where they wintered.
+Here they were joined by Mr. R. M'Lellan, by a Mr. Crooks, and a Mr.
+M&uuml;ller, traders with the Indians of the South, and all having business
+relations with Mr. Astor.</p>
+
+<p>In the spring of 1811, having procured two large keel-boats, they
+ascended the Missouri to the country of the <i>Arikaras</i>, or Rice Indians,
+where they disposed of their boats and a great part of their luggage, to
+a Spanish trader, by name <i>Manuel Lisa</i>. Having purchased of him, and
+among the Indians, 130 horses, they resumed their route, in the
+beginning of August, to the number of some sixty-five persons, to
+proceed across the mountains to the river Columbia. Wishing to avoid the
+<i>Blackfeet</i> Indians, a warlike and ferocious tribe, who put to death all
+the strangers that fall into their hands, they directed their course
+southwardly, until they arrived at the 40th degree of latitude. Thence
+they turned to the northwest, and arrived, by-and-by, at an old fort,
+or trading post, on the banks of a little river flowing west. This post,
+which was then deserted, had been established, as they afterward
+learned, by a trader named Henry. Our people, not doubting that this
+stream would conduct them to the Columbia, and finding it navigable,
+constructed some canoes to descend it. Having left some hunters (or
+trappers) near the old fort, with Mr. Miller, who, dissatisfied with the
+expedition, was resolved to return to the United States, the party
+embarked; but very soon finding the river obstructed with rapids and
+waterfalls, after having upset some of the canoes, lost one man by
+drowning, and also a part of their baggage, perceiving that the stream
+was impracticable, they resolved to abandon their canoes and proceed on
+foot. The enterprise was one of great difficulty, considering the small
+stock of provisions they had left. Nevertheless, as there was no time to
+lose in deliberation, after depositing in a <i>cache</i> the superfluous part
+of their baggage, they divided themselves into four companies, under
+the command of Messrs. M'Kenzie, Hunt, M'Lellan and Crooks, and
+proceeded to follow the course of the stream, which they named <i>Mad
+river</i>, on account of the insurmountable difficulties it presented.
+Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan took the right bank, and Messrs. Hunt and
+Crook the left. They counted on arriving very quickly at the Columbia;
+but they followed this Mad river for twenty days, finding nothing at all
+to eat, and suffering horribly from thirst. The rocks between which the
+river flows being so steep and abrupt as to prevent their descending to
+quench their thirst (so that even their dogs died of it), they suffered
+the torments of Tantalus, with this difference, that he had the water
+which he could not reach above his head, while our travellers had it
+beneath their feet. Several, not to die of this raging thirst, drank
+their own urine: all, to appease the cravings of hunger, ate beaver
+skins roasted in the evening at the camp-fire. They even were at last
+constrained to eat their moccasins. Those on the or southeast bank,
+suffered, however, less than the others, because they occasionally fell
+in with Indians, utterly wild indeed, and who fled at their approach,
+carrying off their horses. According to all appearances these savages
+had never seen white men. Our travellers, when they arrived in sight of
+the camp of one of these wandering hordes, approached it with as much
+precaution, and with the same stratagem that they would have used with a
+troop of wild beasts. Having thus surprised them, they would fire upon
+the horses, some of which would fall; but they took care to leave some
+trinkets on the spot, to indemnify the owners for what they had taken
+from them by violence. This resource prevented the party from perishing
+of hunger.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. M'Kenzie having overtaken Mr. M'Lellan, their two companies pursued
+the journey together. Very soon after this junction, they had an
+opportunity of approaching sufficiently near to Mr. Hunt, who, as I have
+remarked, was on the other bank, to speak to him, and inform him of
+their distressed state. Mr. Hunt caused a canoe to be made of a
+horse-hide; it was not, as one may suppose, very large; but they
+succeeded, nevertheless, by that means, in conveying a little
+horse-flesh to the people on the north bank. It was attempted, even, to
+pass them across, one by one (for the skiff would not hold any more);
+several had actually crossed to the south side, when, unhappily, owing
+to the impetuosity of the current, the canoe capsized, a man was
+drowned, and the two parties lost all hope of being able to unite. They
+continued their route, therefore, each on their own side of the river.
+In a short time those upon the north bank came to a more considerable
+stream, which they followed down. They also met, very opportunely, some
+Indians, who sold them a number of horses. They also encountered, in
+these parts, a young American, who was deranged, but who sometimes
+recovered his reason. This young man told them, in one of his lucid
+intervals, that he was from Connecticut, and was named Archibald Pelton;
+that he had come up the Missouri with Mr. Henry; that all the people at
+the post established by that trader were massacred by the Blackfeet;
+that he alone had escaped, and had been wandering, for three years
+since, with the <i>Snake</i> Indians.<a name="FNanchor_L_12" id="FNanchor_L_12" /><a href="#Footnote_L_12" class="fnanchor">[L]</a> Our people took this young man with
+them. Arriving at the confluence with the Columbia, of the river whose
+banks they were following, they perceived that it was the same which had
+been called <i>Lewis river</i>, by the American captain of that name, in
+1805. Here, then, they exchanged their remaining horses for canoes, and
+so arrived at the establishment, safe and sound, it is true, but in a
+pitiable condition to see; their clothes being nothing but fluttering
+rags.</p>
+
+<p>The narrative of these gentlemen interested us very much. They added,
+that since their separation from Messrs. Hunt and Crooks, they had
+neither seen nor heard aught of them, and believed it impossible that
+they should arrive at the establishment before spring. They were
+mistaken, however, for Mr. Hunt arrived on the 15th February, with
+thirty men, one woman, and two children, having left Mr. Crooks, with
+five men, among the <i>Snakes</i>. They might have reached Astoria almost as
+soon as Mr. M'Kenzie, but they had passed from eight to ten days in the
+midst of a plain, among some friendly Indians, as well to recruit their
+strength, as to make search for two of the party, who had been lost in
+the woods. Not finding them, they had resumed their journey, and struck
+the banks of the Columbia a little lower down than the mouth of Lewis
+river, where Mr. M'Kenzie had come out.</p>
+
+<p>The arrival of so great a number of persons would have embarrassed us,
+had it taken place a month sooner. Happily, at this time, the natives
+were bringing in fresh fish in abundance. Until the 30th of March, we
+were occupied in preparing triplicates of letters and other necessary
+papers, in order to send Mr. Astor the news of our arrival, and of the
+reunion of the two expeditions. The letters were intrusted to Mr. John
+Reed, who quitted Astoria for St. Louis, in company with Mr.
+M'Lellan&mdash;another discontented partner, who wished to disconnect himself
+with the association,&mdash;and Mr. R. Stuart, who was conveying two
+canoe-loads of goods for his uncle's post on the <i>Okenakan</i>. Messrs.
+Farnham and M'Gillis set out at the same time, with a guide, and were
+instructed to proceed to the <i>cache</i>,<a name="FNanchor_M_13" id="FNanchor_M_13" /><a href="#Footnote_M_13" class="fnanchor">[M]</a> where the overland travellers
+had hidden their goods, near old Fort Henry, on the Mad river. I
+profited by this opportunity to write to my family in Canada. Two days
+after, Messrs. M'Kenzie and Matthews set out, with five or six men, as
+hunters, to make an excursion up the Willamet river.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of the Ship Beaver.&mdash;Unexpected Return of Messrs. D.
+     Stuart, R. Stuart, M'Lelland, &amp;c.&mdash;Cause of that Return.&mdash;Ship
+     discharging.&mdash;New Expeditions.&mdash;Hostile Attitude of the
+     Natives.&mdash;Departure of the Beaver.&mdash;Journeys of the Author.&mdash;His
+     Occupations at the Establishment.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>From the departure of the last outfit under Mr. M'Kenzie, nothing
+remarkable took place at Astoria, till the 9th of May. On that day we
+descried, to our great surprise and great joy, a sail in the offing,
+opposite the mouth of the river. Forthwith Mr. M'Dougal was despatched
+in a boat to the cape, to make the signals. On the morning of the 10th,
+the weather being fine and the sea smooth, the boat pushed out and
+arrived safely alongside. Soon after, the wind springing up, the vessel
+made sail and entered the river, where she dropped anchor, in Baker's
+Bay, at about 2 P.M. Toward evening the boat returned to the Fort, with
+the following passengers: Messrs. John Clarke of Canada (a wintering
+partner), Alfred Seton, George Ehnainger, a nephew of Mr. Astor
+(clerks), and two men. We learned from these gentlemen that the vessel
+was the <i>Beaver</i>, Captain <i>Cornelius Sowles</i>, and was consigned to us;
+that she left New York on the 10th of October, and had touched, in the
+passage, at <i>Massa Fuero</i> and the Sandwich Isles. Mr. Clarke handed me
+letters from my father and from several of my friends: I thus learned
+that death had deprived me of a beloved sister.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 11th, we were strangely surprised by the return of
+Messrs. D. Stuart, R. Stuart, R. M'Lelland, Crooks, Reed, and Farnham.
+This return, as sudden as unlooked for, was owing to an unfortunate
+adventure which befell the party, in ascending the river. When they
+reached the Falls, where the portage is very long, some natives came
+with their horses, to offer their aid in transporting the goods. Mr. R.
+Stuart, not distrusting them, confided to their care some bales of
+merchandise, which they packed on their horses: but, in making the
+transit, they darted up a narrow path among the rocks, and fled at full
+gallop toward the prairie, without its being possible to overtake them.
+Mr. Stuart had several shots fired over their heads, to frighten them,
+but it had no other effect than to increase their speed. Meanwhile our
+own people continued the transportation of the rest of the goods, and of
+the canoes; but as there was a great number of natives about, whom the
+success and impunity of those thieves had emboldened, Mr. Stuart thought
+it prudent to keep watch over the goods at the upper end of the portage,
+while Messrs. M'Lellan and Reed made the rear-guard. The last named
+gentleman, who carried, strapped to his shoulders, a tin box containing
+the letters and despatches for New York with which he was charged,
+happened to be at some distance from the former, and the Indians thought
+it a favorable opportunity to attack him and carry off his box, the
+brightness of which no doubt had tempted their cupidity. They threw
+themselves upon him so suddenly that he had no time to place himself on
+the defensive. After a short resistance, he received a blow on the head
+from a war club, which felled him to the ground, and the Indians seized
+upon their booty. Mr. M'Lellan perceiving what was done, fired his
+carabine at one of the robbers and made him bite the dust; the rest took
+to flight, but carried off the box notwithstanding. Mr. M'Lellan
+immediately ran up to Mr. Reed; but finding the latter motionless and
+bathed in blood, he hastened to rejoin Mr. Stuart, urging him to get
+away from these robbers and murderers. But Mr. Stuart, being a
+self-possessed and fearless man, would not proceed without ascertaining
+if Mr. Reed were really dead, or if he were, without carrying off his
+body; and notwithstanding the remonstrances of Mr. M'Lellan, taking his
+way back to the spot where the latter had left his companion, had not
+gone two hundred paces, when he met him coming toward them, holding his
+bleeding head with both hands.<a name="FNanchor_N_14" id="FNanchor_N_14" /><a href="#Footnote_N_14" class="fnanchor">[N]</a></p>
+
+<p>The object of Mr. Reed's journey being defeated by the loss of his
+papers, he repaired, with the other gentlemen, to Mr. David Stuart's
+trading post, at Okenakan, whence they had all set out, in the beginning
+of May, to return to Astoria. Coming down the river, they fell in with
+Mr. R. Crooks, and a man named <i>John Day</i>. It was observed in the
+preceding chapter that Mr. Crooks remained with five men among some
+Indians who were there termed <i>friendly</i>: but this gentleman and his
+companion were the only members of that party who ever reached the
+establishment: and they too arrived in a most pitiable condition, the
+savages having stripped them of everything, leaving them but some bits
+of deerskin to cover their nakedness.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th, the schooner, which had been sent down the river to the
+Beaver's anchorage, returned with a cargo (being the stores intended for
+Astoria), and the following passengers: to wit, Messrs. B. Clapp, J.C.
+Halsey, C.A. Nichols, and R. Cox, clerks; five Canadians, seven
+Americans (all mechanics), and a dozen Sandwich-islanders for the
+service of the establishment. The captain of the Beaver sounded the
+channel diligently for several days; but finding it scarcely deep enough
+for so large a vessel, he was unwilling to bring her up to Astoria. It
+was necessary, in consequence, to use the schooner as a lighter in
+discharging the ship, and this tedious operation occupied us during the
+balance of this month and a part of June.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Sowles and Mr. Clarke confirmed the report of the destruction of
+the Tonquin; they had learned it at Owhyhee, by means of a letter which
+a certain Captain Ebbetts, in the employ of Mr. Astor, had left there.
+It was nevertheless resolved that Mr. Hunt should embark upon the
+&quot;Beaver,&quot; to carry out the plan of an exact commercial survey of the
+coast, which Mr. M'Kay had been sent to accomplish, and in particular to
+visit for that purpose the Russian establishments at Chitka sound.</p>
+
+<p>The necessary papers having been prepared anew, and being now ready to
+expedite, were confided to Mr. R. Stuart, who was to cross the continent
+in company with Messrs. Crooks and R. M'Lellan, partners dissatisfied
+with the enterprise, and who had made up their minds to return to the
+United States. Mr. Clark, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Donald,
+M'Lellan, Farnham and Cox, was fitted out at the same time, with a
+considerable assortment of merchandise, to form a new establishment on
+the <i>Spokan</i> or Clarke's river. Mr. M'Kenzie, with Mr. Seton, was
+destined for the borders of <i>Lewis</i> river: while Mr. David Stuart,
+reinforced by Messrs. Matthews and M'Gillis, was to explore the region
+lying north of his post at Okenakan. All these outfits being ready, with
+the canoes, boatmen, and hunters, the flotilla quitted Astoria on the
+30th of June, in the afternoon, having on board sixty-two persons. The
+sequel will show the result of the several expeditions.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole month of July, the natives (seeing us weakened no doubt
+by these outfits), manifested their hostile intentions so openly that we
+were obliged to be constantly on our guard. We constructed covered ways
+inside our palisades, and raised our bastions or towers another story.
+The alarm became so serious toward the latter end of the month that we
+doubled our sentries day and night, and never allowed more than two or
+three Indians at a time within our gates.</p>
+
+<p>The Beaver was ready to depart on her coasting voyage at the end of
+June, and on the 1st of July Mr. Hunt went on board: but westerly winds
+prevailing all that month, it was not till the 4th of August that she
+was able to get out of the river; being due again by the end of October
+to leave her surplus goods and take in our furs for market.</p>
+
+<p>The months of August and September were employed in finishing a house
+forty-five feet by thirty, shingled and perfectly tight, as a hospital
+for the sick, and lodging house for the mechanics.</p>
+
+<p>Experience having taught us that from the beginning of October to the
+end of January, provisions were brought in by the natives in very small
+quantity, it was thought expedient that I should proceed in the
+schooner, accompanied by Mr. Clapp, on a trading voyage up the river to
+secure a cargo of dried fish. We left Astoria on the 1st of October,
+with a small assortment of merchandise. The trip was highly successful:
+we found the game very abundant, killed a great quantity of swans,
+ducks, foxes, &amp;c., and returned to Astoria on the 20th, with a part of
+our venison, wild fowl, and bear meat, besides seven hundred, and fifty
+smoked salmon, a quantity of the <i>Wapto</i> root (so called by the
+natives), which is found a good substitute for potatoes, and four
+hundred and fifty skins of beaver and other animals of the furry tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The encouragement derived from this excursion, induced us to try a
+second, and I set off this time alone, that is, with a crew of five men
+only, and an Indian boy, son of the old chief Comcomly. This second
+voyage proved anything but agreeable. We experienced continual rains,
+and the game was much less abundant, while the natives had mostly left
+the river for their wintering grounds. I succeeded, nevertheless, in
+exchanging my goods for furs and dried fish, and a small supply of dried
+venison: and returned, on the 15th of November, to Astoria, where the
+want of fresh provisions began to be severely felt, so that several of
+the men were attacked with scurvy.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Halsey and Wallace having been sent on the 23d, with fourteen
+men, to establish a trading post on the Willamet, and Mr. M'Dougal being
+confined to his room by sickness, Mr. Clapp and I were left with the
+entire charge of the post at Astoria, and were each other's only
+resource for society. Happily Mr. Clapp was a man of amiable character,
+of a gay, lively humor, and agreeable conversation. In the intervals of
+our daily duties, we amused ourselves with music and reading; having
+some instruments and a choice library. Otherwise we should have passed
+our time in a state of insufferable ennui, at this rainy season, in the
+midst of the deep mud which surrounded us, and which interdicted the
+pleasure of a promenade outside the buildings.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Uneasiness respecting the &quot;Beaver.&quot;&mdash;News of the Declaration of War
+     between Great Britain and the United States.&mdash;Consequences of that
+     Intelligence.&mdash;Different Occurrences.&mdash;Arrival of two Canoes of the
+     Northwest Company.&mdash;Preparations for abandoning the
+     Country.&mdash;Postponement of Departure.&mdash;Arrangement with Mr. J.G.
+     M'Tavish.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The months of October, November, and December passed away without any
+news of the &quot;Beaver,&quot; and we began to fear that there had happened to
+her, as to the Tonquin, some disastrous accident. It will be seen, in
+the following chapter, why this vessel did not return to Astoria in the
+autumn of 1812.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of January, Mr. M'Kenzie arrived from the interior, having
+abandoned his trading establishment, after securing his stock of goods
+in a <i>cache</i>. Before his departure he had paid a visit to Mr. Clark on
+the Spokan, and while there had learned the news, which he came to
+announce to us, that hostilities had actually commenced between Great
+Britain and the United States. The news had been brought by some
+gentlemen of the Northwest Company, who handed to them a copy of the
+Proclamation of the President to that effect.</p>
+
+<p>When we learned this news, all of us at Astoria who were British
+subjects and Canadians, wished ourselves in Canada; but we could not
+entertain even the thought of transporting ourselves thither, at least
+immediately: we were separated from our country by an immense space; and
+the difficulties of the journey at this season were insuperable:
+besides, Mr. Astor's interests had to be consulted first. We held,
+therefore, a sort of council of war, to which the clerks of the factory
+were invited <i>pro form&acirc;</i>, as they had no voice in the deliberations.
+Having maturely weighed our situation; after having seriously considered
+that being almost to a man British subjects, we were trading,
+notwithstanding, under the American flag: and foreseeing the
+improbability, or rather, to cut the matter short, the impossibility
+that Mr. Astor could send us further supplies or reinforcements while
+the war lasted, as most of the ports of the United States would
+inevitably be blockaded by the British; we concluded to abandon the
+establishment in the ensuing spring, or at latest, in the beginning of
+the summer. We did not communicate these resolutions to the men, lest
+they should in consequence abandon their labor: but we discontinued,
+from that moment, our trade with the natives, except for provisions; as
+well because we had no longer a large stock of goods on hand, as for the
+reason that we had already more furs than we could carry away overland.</p>
+
+<p>So long as we expected the return of the vessel, we had served out to
+the people a regular supply of bread: we found ourselves in consequence,
+very short of provisions, on the arrival of Mr. M'Kenzie and his men.
+This augmentation in the number of mouths to be fed compelled us to
+reduce the ration of each man to four ounces of flour and half a pound
+of dried fish <i>per diem</i>: and even to send a portion of the hands to
+pass the rest of the winter with Messrs. Wallace and Halsey on the
+Willamet, where game was plenty.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the sturgeon having begun to enter the river, I left, on the
+13th of February, to fish for them; and on the 15th sent the first
+boat-load to the establishment; which proved a very timely succor to the
+men, who for several days had broken off work from want of sufficient
+food. I formed a camp near Oak Point, whence I continued to despatch
+canoe after canoe of fine fresh fish to Astoria, and Mr. M'Dougal sent
+to me thither all the men who were sick of scurvy, for the
+re-establishment of their health.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th of March, Messrs. Reed and Seton, who had led a part of our
+men to the post on the Willamet, to subsist them, returned to Astoria,
+with a supply of dried venison. These gentlemen spoke to us in glowing
+terms of the country of the Willamet as charming, and abounding in
+beaver, elk, and deer; and informed us that Messrs. Wallace and Halsey
+had constructed a dwelling and trading house, on a great prairie, about
+one hundred and fifty miles from the confluence of that river with the
+Columbia. Mr. M'Kenzie and his party quitted us again on the 31st, to
+make known the resolutions recently adopted at Astoria, to the gentlemen
+who were wintering in the interior.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th of April two birch-bark canoes, bearing the British flag,
+arrived at the factory. They were commanded by Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish and
+Joseph Laroque, and manned by nineteen Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>. They landed
+on a point of land under the guns of the fort, and formed their camp. We
+invited these gentlemen to our quarters and learned from them the object
+of their visit. They had come to await the arrival of the ship <i>Isaac
+Todd</i>, despatched from Canada by the Northwest Company, in October,
+1811, with furs, and from England in March, 1812, with a cargo of
+suitable merchandise for the Indian trade. They had orders to wait at
+the mouth of the Columbia till the month of July, and then to return, if
+the vessel did not make her appearance by that time. They also informed
+us that the natives near Lewis river had shown them fowling-pieces,
+gun-flints, lead, and powder; and that they had communicated this news
+to Mr. M'Kenzie, presuming that the Indians had discovered and plundered
+his <i>cache</i>; which turned out afterward to be the case.</p>
+
+<p>The month of May was occupied in preparations for our departure from the
+Columbia. On the 25th, Messrs. Wallace and Halsey returned from their
+winter quarters with seventeen packs of furs, and thirty-two bales of
+dried venison. The last article was received with a great deal of
+pleasure, as it would infallibly be needed for the journey we were about
+to undertake. Messrs. Clarke, D. Stuart and M'Kenzie also arrived, in
+the beginning of June, with one hundred and forty packs of furs, the
+fruit of two years' trade at the post on the <i>Okenakan</i>, and one year on
+the <i>Spokan</i>.<a name="FNanchor_O_15" id="FNanchor_O_15" /><a href="#Footnote_O_15" class="fnanchor">[O]</a></p>
+
+<p>The wintering partners (that is to say, Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart)
+dissenting from the proposal to abandon the country as soon as we
+intended, the thing being (as they observed) impracticable, from the
+want of provisions for the journey and horses to transport the goods;
+the project was deferred, as to its execution, till the following April.
+So these gentlemen, having taken a new lot of merchandise, set out again
+for their trading posts on the 7th of July. But Mr. M'Kenzie, whose
+goods had been pillaged by the natives (it will be remembered), remained
+at Astoria, and was occupied with the care of collecting as great a
+quantity as possible of dried salmon from the Indians. He made seven or
+eight voyages up the river for that purpose, while we at the Fort were
+busy in baling the beaver-skins and other furs, in suitable packs for
+horses to carry. Mr. Reed, in the meantime, was sent on to the
+mountain-passes where Mr. Miller had been left with the trappers, to
+winter, there, and to procure as many horses as he could from the
+natives for our use in the contemplated journey. He was furnished for
+this expedition with three Canadians, and a half-breed hunter named
+<i>Daion</i>, the latter accompanied by his wife and two children. This man
+came from the lower Missouri with Mr. Hunt in 1811-'12.</p>
+
+<p>Our object being to provide ourselves, before quitting the country, with
+the food and horses necessary for the journey; in order to avoid all
+opposition on the part of the Northwest Company, we entered into an
+arrangement with Mr. M'Tavish. This gentleman having represented to us
+that he was destitute of the necessary goods to procure wherewith to
+subsist his party on their way homeward, we supplied him from our
+warehouse, payment to be made us in the ensuing spring, either in furs
+or in bills of exchange on their house in Canada.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of the Ship &quot;Albatross.&quot;&mdash;Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+     the Beaver at Astoria.&mdash;Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a
+     Former Occasion.&mdash;Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the
+     Resolution of the Partners.&mdash;His Departure.&mdash;Narrative of the
+     Destruction of the Tonquin.&mdash;Causes of that Disaster.&mdash;Reflections.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 4th of August, contrary to all expectation, we saw a sail at the
+mouth of the river. One of our gentlemen immediately got into the barge,
+to ascertain her nationality and object: but before he had fairly
+crossed the river, we saw her pass the bar and direct her course toward
+Astoria, as if she were commanded by a captain to whom the intricacies
+of the channel were familiar. I had stayed at the Fort with Mr. Clapp
+and four men. As soon as we had recognised the American flag, not
+doubting any longer that it was a ship destined for the factory, we
+saluted her with three guns. She came to anchor over against the fort,
+but on the opposite side of the river, and returned our salute. In a
+short time after, we saw, or rather we heard, the oars of a boat (for it
+was already night) that came toward us. We expected her approach with
+impatience, to know who the stranger was, and what news she brought us.
+Soon we were relieved from our uncertainty by the appearance of Mr.
+Hunt, who informed us that the ship was called the <i>Albatross</i> and was
+commanded by Captain <i>Smith</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It will be remembered that Mr. Hunt had sailed from Astoria on board the
+&quot;Beaver,&quot; on the 4th of August of the preceding year, and should have
+returned with that vessel, in the month of October of the same year. We
+testified to him our surprise that he had not returned at the time
+appointed, and expressed the fears which we had entertained in regard to
+his fate, as well as that of the Beaver itself: and in reply he
+explained to us the reasons why neither he nor Captain Sowles had been
+able to fulfil the promise which they had made us.</p>
+
+<p>After having got clear of the river Columbia, they had scudded to the
+north, and had repaired to the Russian post of Chitka, where they had
+exchanged a part of their goods for furs. They had made with the
+governor of that establishment, Barnoff by name, arrangements to supply
+him regularly with all the goods of which he had need, and to send him
+every year a vessel for that purpose, as well as for the transportation
+of his surplus furs to the East Indies. They had then advanced still
+further to the north, to the coast of <i>Kamskatka</i>; and being there
+informed that some Kodiak hunters had been left on some adjacent isles,
+called the islands of St. Peter and St. Paul, and that these hunters had
+not been visited for three years, they determined to go thither, and
+having reached those isles, they opened a brisk trade, and secured no
+less than eighty thousand skins of the South-sea seal. These operations
+had consumed a great deal of time; the season was already far advanced;
+ice was forming around them, and it was not without having incurred
+considerable dangers that they succeeded in making their way out of
+those latitudes. Having extricated themselves from the frozen seas of
+the north, but in a shattered condition, they deemed it more prudent to
+run for the Sandwich isles, where they arrived after enduring a
+succession of severe gales. Here Mr. Hunt disembarked, with the men who
+had accompanied him, and who did not form a part of the ship's crew; and
+the vessel, after undergoing the necessary repairs, set sail for Canton.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hunt had then passed nearly six months at the Sandwich islands,
+expecting the annual ship from New York, and never imagining that war
+had been declared. But at last, weary of waiting so long to no purpose,
+he had bought a small schooner of one of the chiefs of the isle of
+Wahoo, and was engaged in getting her ready to sail for the mouth of the
+Columbia, when four sails hove in sight, and presently came to anchor in
+<i>Ohetity bay</i>. He immediately, went on board of one of them, and learned
+that they came from the Indies, whence they had sailed precipitately, to
+avoid the English cruisers. He also learned from the captain of the
+vessel he boarded, that the Beaver had arrived in Canton some days
+before the news of the declaration of war. This Captain Smith, moreover,
+had on board some cases of nankeens and other goods shipped by Mr.
+Astor's agent at Canton for us. Mr. Hunt then chartered the Albatross to
+take him with his people and the goods to the Columbia. That gentleman
+had not been idle during the time that he sojourned at Wahoo: he brought
+us 35 barrels of salt pork or beef, nine tierces of rice, a great
+quantity of dried <i>Taro</i>, and a good supply of salt.</p>
+
+<p>As I knew the channel of the river, I went on board the Albatross, and
+piloted her to the old anchorage of the Tonquin, under the guns of the
+Fort, in order to facilitate the landing of the goods.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Smith informed us that in 1810, a year before the founding of
+our establishment, he had entered the river in the same vessel, and
+ascended it in boats as far as Oak Point; and that he had attempted to
+form an establishment there; but the spot which he chose for building,
+and on which he had even commenced fencing for a garden, being
+overflowed in the summer freshet, he had been forced to abandon his
+project and re-embark. We had seen, in fact, at Oak Point, some traces
+of this projected establishment. The bold manner in which this captain
+had entered the river was now accounted for.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Smith had chartered his vessel to a Frenchman named <i>Demestre</i>,
+who was then a passenger on board of her, to go and take a cargo of
+sandal wood at the <i>Marquesas</i>, where that gentleman had left some men
+to collect it, the year before. He could not, therefore, comply with the
+request we made him, to remain during the summer with us, in order to
+transport our goods and people, as soon as they could be got together,
+to the Sandwich islands.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hunt was surprised beyond measure, when we informed him of the
+resolution we had taken of abandoning the country: he blamed us severely
+for having acted with so much precipitation, pointing out that the
+success of the late coasting voyage, and the arrangements we had made
+with the Russians, promised a most advantageous trade, which it was a
+thousand pities to sacrifice, and lose the fruits of the hardships he
+had endured and the dangers he had braved, at one fell swoop, by this
+rash measure. Nevertheless, seeing the partners were determined to abide
+by their first resolution, and not being able, by himself alone, to
+fulfil his engagements to Governor Barnoff, he consented to embark once
+more, in order to seek a vessel to transport our heavy goods, and such
+of us as wished to return by sea. He sailed, in fact, on the Albatross,
+at the end of the month. My friend Clapp embarked with him: they were,
+in the first instance, to run down the coast of California, in the hope
+of meeting there some of the American vessels which frequently visit
+that coast to obtain provisions from the Spaniards.</p>
+
+<p>Some days after the departure of Mr. Hunt, the old one-eyed chief
+Comcomly came to tell us that an Indian of <i>Gray's Harbor</i>, who had
+sailed on the Tonquin in 1811, and who was the only soul that had
+escaped the massacre of the crew of that unfortunate vessel, had
+returned to his tribe. As the distance from the River Columbia to Gray's
+Harbor was not great, we sent for this native. At first he made
+considerable difficulty about following our people, but was finally
+persuaded. He arrived at Astoria, and related to us the circumstances of
+that sad catastrophe, nearly as follows:<a name="FNanchor_P_16" id="FNanchor_P_16" /><a href="#Footnote_P_16" class="fnanchor">[P]</a></p>
+
+<p>&quot;After I had embarked on the Tonquin,&quot; said he, &quot;that vessel sailed for
+<i>Nootka</i>.<a name="FNanchor_Q_17" id="FNanchor_Q_17" /><a href="#Footnote_Q_17" class="fnanchor">[Q]</a> Having arrived opposite a large village called <i>Newity</i>, we
+dropped anchor. The natives having invited Mr. M'Kay to land, he did so,
+and was received in the most cordial manner: they even kept him several
+days at their village, and made him lie, every night, on a couch of
+sea-otter skins. Meanwhile the captain was engaged in trading with such
+of the natives as resorted to his ship: but having had a difficulty with
+one of the principal chiefs in regard to the price of certain goods, he
+ended by putting the latter out of the ship, and in the act of so
+repelling him, struck him on the face with the roll of furs which he had
+brought to trade. This act was regarded by that chief and his followers
+as the most grievous insult, and they resolved to take vengeance for it.
+To arrive more surely at their purpose, they dissembled their
+resentment, and came, as usual, on board the ship. One day, very early
+in the morning, a large pirogue, containing about a score of natives,
+came alongside: every man had in his hand a packet of furs, and held it
+over his head as a sign that they came to trade. The watch let them come
+on deck. A little after, arrived a second pirogue, carrying about as
+many men as the other. The sailors believed that these also came to
+exchange their furs, and allowed them to mount the ship's side like the
+first. Very soon, the pirogues thus succeeding one another, the crew
+saw themselves surrounded by a multitude of savages, who came upon the
+deck from all sides. Becoming alarmed at the appearance of things, they
+went to apprize the captain and Mr. M'Kay, who hastened to the poop. I
+was with them,&quot; said the narrator, &quot;and fearing, from the great
+multitude of Indians whom I saw already on the deck, and from the
+movements of those on shore, who were hurrying to embark in their
+canoes, to approach the vessel, and from the women being left in charge
+of the canoes of those who had arrived, that some evil design was on
+foot, I communicated my suspicions to Mr. M'Kay, who himself spoke to
+the captain. The latter affected an air of security, and said that with
+the firearms on board, there was no reason to fear even a greater number
+of Indians. Meanwhile these gentlemen had come on deck unarmed, without
+even their sidearms. The trade, nevertheless, did not advance; the
+Indians offered less than was asked, and pressing with their furs close
+to the captain, Mr. M'Kay, and Mr. Lewis, repeated the word <i>Makoke!
+Makoke!</i> &quot;Trade! Trade!&quot; I urged the gentlemen to put to sea, and the
+captain, at last, seeing the number of Indians increase every moment,
+allowed himself to be persuaded: he ordered a part of the crew to raise
+the anchor, and the rest to go aloft and unfurl the sails. At the same
+time he warned the natives to withdraw, as the ship was going to sea. A
+fresh breeze was then springing up, and in a few moments more their prey
+would have escaped them; but immediately on receiving this notice, by a
+preconcerted signal, the Indians, with a terrific yell, drew forth the
+knives and war-bludgeons they had concealed in their bundles of furs,
+and rushed upon the crew of the ship. Mr. Lewis was struck, and fell
+over a bale of blankets. Mr. M'Kay, however, was the first victim whom
+they sacrificed to their fury. Two savages, whom, from the crown of the
+poop, where I was seated, I had seen follow this gentleman step by step,
+now cast themselves upon him, and having given him a blow on the head
+with a <i>potumagan</i> (a kind of sabre which is described a little below),
+felled him to the deck, then took him up and flung him into the sea,
+where the women left in charge of the canoes, quickly finished him with
+their paddles. Another set flung themselves upon the captain, who
+defended himself for a long time with his pocket-knife, but, overpowered
+by numbers, perished also under the blows of these murderers. I next saw
+(and that was the last occurrence of which I was witness before quitting
+the ship) the sailors who were aloft, slip down by the rigging, and get
+below through the steerage hatchway. They were five, I think, in number,
+and one of them, in descending, received a knife-stab in the back. I
+then jumped overboard, to escape a similar fate to that of the captain
+and Mr. M'Kay: the women in the canoes, to whom I surrendered myself as
+a slave, took me in, and bade me hide myself under some mats which were
+in the pirogues; which I did. Soon after, I heard the discharge of
+firearms, immediately upon which the Indians fled from the vessel, and
+pulled for the shore as fast as possible, nor did they venture to go
+alongside the ship again the whole of that day. The next day, haying
+seen four men lower a boat, and pull away from the ship, they sent some
+pirogues in chase: but whether those men were overtaken and murdered, or
+gained the open sea and perished there, I never could learn. Nothing
+more was seen stirring on board the Tonquin; the natives pulled
+cautiously around her, and some of the more daring went on board; at
+last, the savages, finding themselves absolute masters of the ship,
+rushed on board in a crowd to pillage her. But very soon, when there
+were about four or five hundred either huddled together on deck, or
+clinging to the sides, all eager for plunder, the ship blew up with a
+horrible noise. &quot;I was on the shore,&quot; said the Indian, &quot;when the
+explosion took place, saw the great volume of smoke burst forth in the
+spot where the ship had been, and high in the air above, arms, legs,
+heads and bodies, flying in every direction. The tribe acknowledged a
+loss of over two hundred of their people on that occasion. As for me I
+remained their prisoner, and have been their slave for two years. It is
+but now that I have been ransomed by my friends. I have told you the
+truth, and hope you will acquit me of having in any way participated in
+that bloody affair.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Our Indian having finished his discourse, we made him presents
+proportioned to the melancholy satisfaction he had given us in
+communicating the true history of the sad fate of our former companions,
+and to the trouble he had taken in coming to us; so that he returned
+apparently well satisfied with our liberality.</p>
+
+<p>According to the narrative of this Indian, Captain Thorn, by his abrupt
+manner and passionate temper, was the primary cause of his own death and
+that of all on board his vessel. What appears certain at least, is, that
+he was guilty of unpardonable negligence and imprudence, in not causing
+the boarding netting to be rigged, as is the custom of all the
+navigators who frequent this coast, and in suffering (contrary to his
+instructions) too great a number of Indians to come on board at once.<a name="FNanchor_R_18" id="FNanchor_R_18" /><a href="#Footnote_R_18" class="fnanchor">[R]</a></p>
+
+<p>Captain Smith, of the Albatross, who had seen the wreck of the Tonquin,
+in mentioning to us its sad fate, attributed the cause of the disaster
+to the rash conduct of a Captain Ayres, of Boston. That navigator had
+taken off, as I have mentioned already, ten or a dozen natives of
+New-itty, as hunters, with a promise of bringing them back to their
+country, which promise he inhumanly broke by leaving them on some desert
+islands in Sir Francis Drake's Bay. The countrymen of these
+unfortunates, indignant at the conduct of the American captain, had
+sworn to avenge themselves on the first white men who appeared among
+them. Chance willed it that our vessel was the first to enter that bay,
+and the natives but too well executed on our people their project of
+vengeance.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever may, have been the first and principal cause of this misfortune
+(for doubtless it is necessary to suppose more than one), seventeen
+white men and twelve Sandwich-Islanders, were massacred: not one escaped
+from the butchery, to bring us the news of it, but the Indian of <i>Gray's
+Harbor</i>. The massacre of our people was avenged, it is true, by the
+destruction of ten times the number of their murderers; but this
+circumstance, which could perhaps gladden the heart of a savage, was a
+feeble consolation (if it was any) for civilized men. The death of Mr.
+Alexander M'Kay was an irreparable loss to the Company, which would
+probably have been dissolved by the remaining partners, but for the
+arrival of the energetic Mr. Hunt. Interesting as was the recital of the
+Indian of Gray's Harbor throughout, when he came to the unhappy end of
+that estimable man, marks of regret were visibly painted on the
+countenances of all who listened.</p>
+
+<p>At the beginning of September, Mr. M'Kenzie set off, with Messrs.
+Wallace and Seton, to carry a supply of goods to the gentlemen wintering
+in the interior, as well as to inform them of the arrangements
+concluded with Mr. Hunt, and to enjoin them to send down all their furs,
+and all the Sandwich-Islanders, that the former might be shipped for
+America, and the latter sent back to their country.</p>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p style="text-align: center;">NOTE.</p>
+
+<p>It will never be known how or by whom the <i>Tonquin</i> was blown up.
+     Some pretend to say that it was the work of James Lewis, but that
+     is impossible, for it appears from the narrative of the Indian that
+     he was one of the first persons murdered. It will be recollected
+     that five men got between decks from aloft, during the affray, and
+     four only were seen to quit the ship afterward in the boat. The
+     presumption was that the missing man must have done it, and in
+     further conversation with the Gray's Harbor Indian, he inclined to
+     that opinion, and even affirmed that the individual was the ship's
+     armorer, <i>Weeks</i>. It might also have been accidental. There was a
+     large quantity of powder in the run immediately under the cabin,
+     and it is not impossible that while the Indians were intent on
+     plunder, in opening some of the kegs they may have set fire to the
+     contents. Or again, the men, before quitting the ship, may have
+     lighted a slow train, which is the most likely supposition of all.</p></div>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.&mdash;Sale of
+     the Establishment at Astoria to that Company.&mdash;Canadian
+     News.&mdash;Arrival of the British Sloop-of-War &quot;Raccoon.&quot;&mdash;Accident on
+     Board that Vessel.&mdash;The Captain takes Formal Possession of
+     Astoria.&mdash;Surprise and Discontent of the Officers and
+     Crew.&mdash;Departure of the &quot;Raccoon.&quot;</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>A few days after Mr. M'Kenzie left us, we were greatly surprised by the
+appearance of two canoes bearing the British flag, with a third between
+them, carrying the flag of the United States, all rounding Tongue Point.
+It was no other than Mr. M'Kenzie himself, returning with Messrs. J.G.
+M'Tavish and Angus Bethune, of the Northwest Company. He had met these
+gentlemen near the first rapids, and had determined to return with them
+to the establishment, in consequence of information which they gave him.
+Those gentlemen were in <i>light</i> canoes (i.e., without any lading), and
+formed the vanguard to a flotilla of eight, loaded with furs, under the
+conduct of Messrs. John Stuart and M'Millan.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. M'Tavish came to our quarters at the factory, and showed Mr.
+M'Dougal a letter which had been addressed to the latter by Mr. Angus
+Shaw, his uncle, and one of the partners of the Northwest Company. Mr.
+Shaw informed his nephew that the ship <i>Isaac Todd</i> had sailed from
+London, with letters of <i>marque</i>, in the month of March, in company with
+the frigate <i>Phoebe</i>, having orders from the government to seize our
+establishment, which had been represented to the lords of the admiralty
+as an important colony founded by the American government. The eight
+canoes left behind, came up meanwhile, and uniting themselves to the
+others, they formed a camp of about seventy-five men, at the bottom of a
+little bay or cove, near our factory. As they were destitute of
+provisions, we supplied them; but Messrs. M'Dougal and M'Kenzie
+affecting to dread a surprise from this British force under our guns,
+we kept strictly on our guard; for we were inferior in point of numbers,
+although our position was exceedingly advantageous.</p>
+
+<p>As the season advanced, and their ship did not arrive, our new neighbors
+found themselves in a very disagreeable situation, without food, or
+merchandise wherewith to procure it from the natives; viewed by the
+latter with a distrustful and hostile eye, as being our enemies and
+therefore exposed to attack and plunder on their part with impunity;
+supplied with good hunters, indeed, but wanting ammunition to render
+their skill available. Weary, at length, of applying to us incessantly
+for food (which we furnished them with a sparing hand), unable either to
+retrace their steps through the wilderness or to remain in their present
+position, they came to the conclusion of proposing to buy of us the
+whole establishment.</p>
+
+<p>Placed, as we were, in the situation of expecting, day by day, the
+arrival of an English ship-of-war to seize upon all we possessed, we
+listened to their propositions. Several meetings and discussions took
+place; the negotiations were protracted by the hope of one party that
+the long-expected armed force would arrive, to render the purchase
+unnecessary, and were urged forward by the other in order to conclude
+the affair before that occurrence should intervene; at length the price
+of the goods and furs in the factory was agreed upon, and the bargain
+was signed by both parties on the 23d of October. The gentlemen of the
+Northwest Company took possession of Astoria, agreeing to pay the
+servants of the Pacific Fur Company (the name which had been chosen by
+Mr. Astor), the arrears of their wages, to be deducted from the price of
+the goods which we delivered, to supply them with provisions, and give a
+free passage to those who wished to return to Canada over land. The
+American colors were hauled down from the factory, and the British run
+up, to the no small chagrin and mortification of those who were American
+citizens.</p>
+
+<p>It was thus, that after having passed the seas, and suffered all sorts
+of fatigues and privations, I lost in a moment all my hopes of fortune.
+I could not help remarking that we had no right to expect such
+treatment on the part of the British government, after the assurances we
+had received from Mr. Jackson, his majesty's <i>charg&eacute; d'affaires</i>
+previously to our departure from New York. But as I have just intimated,
+the agents of the Northwest Company had exaggerated the importance of
+the factory in the eyes of the British ministry; for if the latter had
+known what it really was&mdash;a mere trading-post&mdash;and that nothing but the
+rivalry of the fur-traders of the Northwest Company was interested in
+its destruction, they would never have taken umbrage at it, or at least
+would never have sent a maritime expedition to destroy it. The sequel
+will show that I was not mistaken in this opinion.</p>
+
+<p>The greater part of the servants of the Pacific Fur Company entered the
+service of the Company of the Northwest: the rest preferred to return to
+their country, and I was of the number of these last. Nevertheless, Mr.
+M'Tavish, after many ineffectual attempts to persuade me to remain with
+them, having intimated that the establishment could not dispense with
+my services, as I was the only person who could assist them in their
+trade, especially for provisions, of which they would soon be in the
+greatest need, I agreed with them (without however relinquishing my
+previous engagement with Mr. Astor's agents) for five months, that is to
+say, till the departure of the expedition which was to ascend the
+Columbia in the spring, and reach Canada by way of the Rocky Mountains
+and the rivers of the interior. Messrs. John Stuart and M'Kenzie set off
+about the end of this month, for the interior, in order that the latter
+might make over to the former the posts established on the Spokan and
+Okenakan.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of November, Messrs. Alexander Stuart and Alexander Henry,
+both partners of the N.W. Company, arrived at the factory, in a couple
+of bark canoes manned by sixteen <i>voyageurs</i>. They had set out from
+<i>Fort William</i>, on Lake Superior, in the month of July. They brought us
+Canadian papers, by which we learned that the British arms so far had
+been in the ascendant. They confirmed also the news that an English
+frigate was coming to take possession of our quondam establishment; they
+were even surprised not to see the <i>Isaac Todd</i> lying in the road.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 30th, we saw a large vessel standing in under
+<i>Cape Disappointment</i> (which proved in this instance to deserve its
+name); and soon after that vessel came to anchor in <i>Baker's bay</i>. Not
+knowing whether it was a friendly or a hostile sail, we thought it
+prudent to send on board Mr. M'Dougal in a canoe, manned by such of the
+men as had been previously in the service of the Pacific Fur Company,
+with injunctions to declare themselves Americans, if the vessel was
+American, and Englishmen in the contrary case. While this party was on
+its way, Mr. M'Tavish caused all the furs which were marked with the
+initials of the N.W. Company to be placed on board the two barges at the
+Fort, and sent them up the river above Tongue Point, where they were to
+wait for a concerted signal, that was to inform them whether the
+new-comers were friends or foes. Toward midnight, Mr. Halsey, who had
+accompanied Mr. M'Dougal to the vessel, returned to the Fort, and
+announced to us that she was the British sloop-of-war <i>Raccoon</i>, of 26
+guns, commanded by Captain Black, with a complement of 120 men, fore and
+aft. Mr. John M'Donald, a partner of the N.W. Company, was a passenger
+on the Raccoon, with five <i>voyageurs</i>, destined for the Company's
+service. He had left England in the frigate <i>Phoebe</i>, which had sailed
+in company with the <i>Isaac Todd</i> as far as Rio Janeiro; but there
+falling in with the British squadron, the admiral changed the
+destination of the frigate, despatching the sloops-of-war <i>Raccoon</i> and
+<i>Cherub</i> to convoy the Isaac Todd, and sent the Phoebe to search for the
+American commodore Porter, who was then on the Pacific, capturing all
+the British whalers and other trading vessels he met with. These four
+vessels then sailed in company as far as Cape Horn, they parted, after
+agreeing on the island of <i>Juan Fernandez</i> as a <i>rendezvous</i>. The three
+ships-of-war met, in fact, at that island; but after having a long time
+waited in vain for the <i>Isaac Todd</i>, Commodore Hillier (Hillyer?) who
+commanded this little squadron, hearing of the injury inflicted by
+Commodore Porter, on the British commerce, and especially on the whalers
+who frequent these seas, resolved to go in quest of him in order to give
+him combat; and retaining the <i>Cherub</i> to assist him, detailed the
+Raccoon to go and destroy the American establishment on the River
+Columbia, being assured by Mr. M'Donald that a single sloop-of-war would
+be sufficient for that service.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. M'Donald had consequently embarked, with his people, on board the
+Raccoon. This gentleman informed us that they had experienced frightful
+weather in doubling the Cape, and that he entertained serious
+apprehensions for the safety of the Isaac Todd, but that if she was
+safe, we might expect her to arrive in the river in two or three weeks.
+The signal gun agreed upon, having been fired, for the return of the
+barges, Mr. M'Tavish came back to the Port with the furs, and was
+overjoyed to learn the arrival of Mr. M'Donald.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of December the Raccoon's gig came up to the fort, bringing
+Mr. M'Donald (surnamed <i>Bras Croche</i>, or crooked arm), and the first
+lieutenant, Mr. Sheriff. Both these gentlemen were convalescent from the
+effects, of an accident which had happened to them in the passage
+between Juan Fernandez and the mouth of the Columbia. The captain
+wishing to clean the guns, ordered them to be scaled, that is, fired
+off: during this exercise one of the guns hung fire; the sparks fell
+into a cartridge tub, and setting fire to the combustibles, communicated
+also to some priming horns suspended above; an explosion followed, which
+reached some twenty persons; eight were killed on the spot, the rest
+were severely burnt; Messrs. M'Donald and Sheriff had suffered a great
+deal; it was with difficulty that their clothes had been removed; and
+when the lieutenant came ashore, he had not recovered the use of his
+hands. Among the killed was an American named <i>Flatt</i>, who was in the
+service of the Northwest Company and whose loss these gentlemen appeared
+exceedingly to regret.</p>
+
+<p>As there were goods destined for the Company on board the Raccoon, the
+schooner <i>Dolly</i> was sent to Baker's bay to bring them up: but the
+weather was so bad, and the wind so violent that she did not return till
+the 12th, bringing up, together with the goods, Captain Black, a
+lieutenant of marines, four soldiers and as many sailors. We entertained
+our guests as splendidly as it lay in our power to do. After dinner, the
+captain caused firearms to be given to the servants of the Company, and
+we all marched under arms to the square or platform, where a flag-staff
+had been erected. There the captain took a British Union Jack, which he
+had brought on shore for the occasion, and caused it to be run up to the
+top of the staff; then, taking a bottle of Madeira wine, he broke it on
+the flag-staff, declaring in a loud voice, that he took possession of
+the establishment and of the country in the name of His Britannic
+Majesty; and changed the name of Astoria to <i>Fort George</i>. Some few
+Indian chiefs had been got together to witness this ceremony, and I
+explained to them in their own language what it signified. Three rounds
+of artillery and musketry were fired, and the health of the king was
+drunk by the parties interested, according to the usage on like
+occasions.</p>
+
+<p>The sloop being detained by contrary winds, the captain caused an exact
+survey to be made of the entrance of the river, as well as of the
+navigable channel between Baker's bay and Fort George. The officers
+visited the fort, turn about, and seemed to me in general very much
+dissatisfied with their fool's errand, as they called it: they had
+expected to find a number of American vessels loaded with rich furs, and
+had calculated in advance their share in the booty of Astoria. They had
+not met a vessel, and their astonishment was at its height when they saw
+that our establishment had been transferred to the Northwest Company,
+and was under the British flag. It will suffice to quote a single
+expression of Captain Black's, in order to show how much they were
+deceived in their expectations. The Captain landed after dark; when we
+showed him the next morning the palisades and log bastions of the
+factory, he inquired if there was not another fort; on being assured
+that there was no other, he cried out, with an air of the greatest
+astonishment:&mdash;&quot;What! is this the fort which was represented to me as so
+formidable! Good God! I could batter it down in two hours with a
+four-pounder!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>There were on board the Raccoon two young men from Canada, who had been
+impressed at Quebec, when that vessel was there some years before her
+voyage to the Columbia: one of them was named <i>Parent</i>, a blacksmith,
+and was of Quebec: the other was from Upper Canada, and was named
+M'Donald. These young persons signified to us that they would be glad to
+remain at Fort George: and as there was among our men some who would
+gladly have shipped, we proposed to the captain an exchange, but he
+would not consent to it. John Little, a boat-builder from New York, who
+had been on the sick list a long time, was sent on board and placed
+under the care of the sloop's surgeon, Mr. O'Brien; the captain engaging
+to land him at the Sandwich Islands. P.D. Jeremie also shipped himself
+as under clerk. The vessel hoisted sail, and got out of the river, on
+the 31st of December.</p>
+
+<p>From the account given in this chapter the reader will see with what
+facility the establishment of the Pacific Fur Company could have escaped
+capture by the British force. It was only necessary to get rid of the
+land party of the Northwest Company&mdash;who were completely in our
+power&mdash;then remove our effects up the river upon some small stream, and
+await the result. The sloop-of-war arrived, it is true; but as, in the
+case I suppose, she would have found nothing, she would have left, after
+setting fire to our deserted houses. None of their boats would have
+dared follow us, even if the Indians had betrayed to them our
+lurking-place. Those at the head of affairs had their own fortunes to
+seek, and thought it more for their interest, doubtless, to act as they
+did, but that will not clear them in the eyes of the world, and the
+charge of treason to Mr. Astor's interests will always be attached to
+their characters.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Expeditions to the Interior.&mdash;Return of Messrs. John Stuart and D.
+     M'Kenzie.&mdash;Theft committed by the Natives.&mdash;War Party against the
+     Thieves.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 3d of January, 1814, two canoes laden with merchandise for the
+interior, were despatched under the command of Mr. Alexander Stuart and
+Mr. James Keith, with fifteen men under them. Two of the latter were
+charged with letters for the posts (of the Northwest Company) east of
+the mountains, containing instructions to the persons in superintendence
+there, to have in readiness canoes and the requisite provisions for a
+large party intending to go east the ensuing spring. I took this
+opportunity of advising my friends in Canada of my intention to return
+home that season. It was the third attempt I had made to send news of my
+existence to my relatives and friends: the first two had miscarried and
+this was doomed to meet the same fate.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. J. Stuart and M'Kenzie, who (as was seen in a previous chapter)
+had been sent to notify the gentlemen in the interior of what had taken
+place at Astoria, and to transfer the wintering posts to the Northwest
+Company, returned to Fort George on the morning of the 6th. They stated
+that they had left Messrs. Clarke and D. Stuart behind, with the loaded
+canoes, and also that the party had been attacked by the natives above
+the falls.</p>
+
+<p>As they were descending the river toward evening, between the first and
+second portages, they had espied a large number of Indians congregated
+at no great distance in the prairie; which gave them some uneasiness. In
+fact, some time after they had encamped, and when all the people (<i>tout
+le monde</i>) were asleep, except Mr. Stuart, who was on guard, these
+savages had stealthily approached the camp, and discharged some arrows,
+one of which had penetrated the coverlet of one of the men, who was
+lying near the baggage, and had pierced the cartilage of his ear; the
+pain made him utter a sharp cry, which alarmed the whole camp and threw
+it into an uproar. The natives perceiving it, fled to the woods, howling
+and yelling like so many demons. In the morning our people picked up
+eight arrows round the camp: they could yet hear the savages yell and
+whoop in the woods: but, notwithstanding, the party reached the lower
+end of the portage unmolested.</p>
+
+<p>The audacity which these barbarians had displayed in attacking a party
+of from forty to forty-five persons, made us suppose that they would,
+much more probably, attack the party of Mr. Stuart, which was composed
+of but seventeen men. Consequently, I received orders to get ready
+forthwith a canoe and firearms, in order to proceed to their relief. The
+whole was ready in the short space of two hours, and I embarked
+immediately with a guide and eight men. Our instructions were to use all
+possible diligence to overtake Messrs. Stewart and Keith, and to convey
+them to the upper end of the last portage; or to return with the goods,
+if we met too much resistance on the part of the natives. We travelled,
+then, all that day, and all the night of the 6th, and on the 7th, till
+evening. Finding ourselves then at a little distance from the rapids, I
+came to a halt, to put the firearms in order, and let the men take some
+repose. About midnight I caused them to re-embark, and ordered the men
+to sing as they rowed, that the party whom we wished to overtake might
+hear us as we passed, if perchance they were encamped on some one of the
+islands of which the river is full in this part. In fact, we had hardly
+proceeded five or six miles, when we were hailed by some one apparently
+in the middle of the stream. We stopped rowing, and answered, and were
+soon joined by our people of the expedition, who were all descending the
+river in a canoe. They informed us that they had been attacked the
+evening before, and that Mr. Stuart had been wounded. We turned about,
+and all proceeded in company toward the fort. In the morning, when we
+stopped to breakfast, Mr. Keith gave me the particulars of the affair of
+the day preceding.</p>
+
+<p>Having arrived at the foot of the rapids, they commenced the portage on
+the south bank of the river, which is obstructed with boulders, over
+which it was necessary to pass the effects. After they had hauled over
+the two canoes, and a part of the goods, the natives approached in great
+numbers, trying to carry off something unobserved. Mr. Stuart was at the
+upper end of the portage (the portage being about six hundred yards in
+length), and Mr. Keith accompanied the loaded men. An Indian seized a
+bag containing articles of little value, and fled: Mr. Stuart, who saw
+the act, pursued the thief, and after some resistance on the latter's
+part, succeeded in making him relinquish his booty. Immediately he saw a
+number of Indians armed with bows and arrows; approaching him: one of
+them bent his bow and took aim; Mr. Stuart, on his part, levelled his
+gun at the Indian, warning the latter not to shoot, and at the same
+instant received an arrow, which pierced his left shoulder. He then
+drew the trigger; but as it had rained all day, the gun missed fire, and
+before he could re-prime, another arrow, better aimed than the first,
+struck him in the left side and penetrated between two of his ribs, in
+the region of the heart, and would have proved fatal, no doubt, but for
+a stone-pipe he had fortunately in his side-pocket, and which was broken
+by the arrow; at the same moment his gun was discharged, and the Indian
+fell dead. Several others then rushed forward to avenge the death of
+their compatriot; but two of the men came up with their loads and their
+gun (for these portages were made arms in hand), and seeing what was
+going forward, one of them threw his pack on the ground, fired on one of
+the Indians and brought him down. He got up again, however, and picked
+up his weapons, but the other man ran upon him, wrested from him his
+war-club, and despatched him by repeated blows on the head with it. The
+other savages, seeing the bulk of our people approaching the scene of
+combat, retired and crossed the river. In the meantime, Mr. Stuart
+extracted the arrows from his body, by the aid of one of the men: the
+blood flowed in abundance from the wounds, and he saw that it would be
+impossible for him to pursue his journey; he therefore gave orders for
+the canoes and goods to be carried back to the lower end of the portage.
+Presently they saw a great number of pirogues full of warriors coming
+from the opposite side of the river. Our people then considered that
+they could do nothing better than to get away as fast as possible; they
+contrived to transport over one canoe, on which they all embarked,
+abandoning the other and the goods, to the natives. While the barbarians
+were plundering these effects, more precious in their estimation than
+the apples of gold in the garden of the Hesperides, our party retired
+and got out of sight. The retreat was, notwithstanding, so precipitate,
+that they left behind an Indian from the Lake of the Two Mountains, who
+was in the service of the Company as a hunter. This Indian had persisted
+in concealing himself behind the rocks, meaning, he said, to kill some
+of those thieves, and did not return in time for the embarkation. Mr.
+Keith regretted this brave man's obstinacy, fearing, with good reason,
+that he would be discovered and murdered by the natives. We rowed all
+that day and night, and reached the factory on the 9th, at sunrise. Our
+first care, after having announced the misfortune of our people, was to
+dress the wounds of Mr. Stuart, which had been merely bound with a
+wretched piece of cotton cloth.</p>
+
+<p>The goods which had been abandoned, were of consequence to the Company,
+inasmuch as they could not be replaced. It was dangerous, besides, to
+leave the natives in possession of some fifty guns and a considerable
+quantity of ammunition, which they might use against us.<a name="FNanchor_S_19" id="FNanchor_S_19" /><a href="#Footnote_S_19" class="fnanchor">[S]</a> The
+partners, therefore, decided to fit out an expedition immediately to
+chastise the robbers, or at least to endeavor to recover the goods. I
+went, by their order, to find the principal chiefs of the neighboring
+tribes, to explain to them what had taken place, and invite them to
+join us, to which they willingly consented. Then, having got ready six
+canoes, we re-embarked on the 10th, to the number of sixty-two men, all
+armed from head to foot, and provided with a small brass field-piece.</p>
+
+<p>We soon reached the lower end of the first rapid: but the essential
+thing was wanting to our little force; it was without provisions; our
+first care then was to try to procure these. Having arrived opposite a
+village, we perceived on the bank about thirty armed savages, who seemed
+to await us firmly. As it was not our policy to seem bent on
+hostilities, we landed on the opposite bank, and I crossed the river
+with five or six men, to enter into parley with them, and try to obtain
+provisions. I immediately became aware that the village was abandoned,
+the women and children having fled to the woods, taking with them all
+the articles of food. The young men, however, offered us dogs, of which
+we purchased a score. Then we passed to a second village, where they
+were already informed of our coming. Here we bought forty-five dogs and
+a horse. With this stock we formed an encampment on an island called
+<i>Strawberry island</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Seeing ourselves now provided with food for several days, we informed
+the natives touching the motives which had brought us, and announced to
+them that we were determined to put them all to death and burn their
+villages, if they did not bring back in two days the effects stolen on
+the 7th. A party was detached to the rapids, where the attack on Mr.
+Stuart had taken place. We found the villages all deserted. Crossing to
+the north bank, we found a few natives, of whom we made inquiries
+respecting the Nipissingue Indian, who had been left behind, but they
+assured us that they had seen nothing of him.<a name="FNanchor_T_20" id="FNanchor_T_20" /><a href="#Footnote_T_20" class="fnanchor">[T]</a></p>
+
+<p>Not having succeeded in recovering, above the rapids, any part of the
+lost goods, the inhabitants all protesting that it was not they, but the
+villages below, which had perpetrated the robbery, we descended the
+river again, and re-encamped on <i>Strawberry island</i>. As the intention of
+the partners was to intimidate the natives, without (if possible)
+shedding blood, we made a display of our numbers, and from time to time
+fired off our little field-piece, to let them see that we could reach
+them from one side of the river to the other. The Indian <i>Coalpo</i> and
+his wife, who had accompanied us, advised us to make prisoner one of the
+chiefs. We succeeded in this design, without incurring any danger.
+Having invited one of the natives to come and smoke with us, he came
+accordingly: a little after, came another; at last, one of the chiefs,
+and he one of the most considered among them, also came. Being notified
+secretly of his character by <i>Coalpo</i>, who was concealed in the tent,
+we seized him forthwith, tied him to a stake, and placed a guard over
+him with a naked sword, as if ready to cut his head off on the least
+attempt being made by his people for his liberation. The other Indians
+were then suffered to depart with the news for his tribe, that unless
+the goods were brought to us in twenty-four hours, their chief would be
+put to death. Our stratagem succeeded: soon after we heard wailing and
+lamentation in the village, and they presently brought us part of the
+guns, some brass kettles, and a variety of smaller articles, protesting
+that this was all their share of the plunder. Keeping our chief as a
+hostage, we passed to the other village, and succeeded in recovering the
+rest of the guns, and about a third of the other goods.</p>
+
+<p>Although they had been the aggressors, yet as they had had two men
+killed and we had not lost any on our side, we thought it our duty to
+conform to the usage of the country, and abandon to them the remainder
+of the stolen effects, to cover, according to their expression, the
+bodies of their two slain compatriots. Besides, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, and it would not have been easy to get at
+our enemies to punish them, if they had taken refuge in the woods,
+according to their custom when they feel themselves the weaker party. So
+we released our prisoner, and gave him a flag, telling him that when he
+presented it unfurled, we should regard it as a sign of peace and
+friendship: but if, when we were passing the portage, any one of the
+natives should have the misfortune to come near the baggage, we would
+kill him on the spot. We re-embarked on the 19th, and on the 22d reached
+the fort, where we made a report of our martial expedition. We found Mr.
+Stuart very ill of his wounds, especially of the one in the side, which
+was so much swelled that we had every reason to think the arrow had been
+poisoned.</p>
+
+<p>If we did not do the savages as much harm as we might have done, it was
+not from timidity but from humanity, and in order not to shed human
+blood uselessly. For after all, what good would it have done us to have
+slaughtered some of these barbarians, whose crime was not the effect of
+depravity and wickedness, but of an ardent and irresistible desire to
+ameliorate their condition? It must be allowed also that the interest,
+well-understood, of the partners of the Northwest Company, was opposed
+to too strongly marked acts of hostility on their part: it behooved them
+exceedingly not to make irreconciliable enemies of the populations
+neighboring on the portages of the Columbia, which they would so often
+be obliged to pass and repass in future. It is also probable that the
+other natives on the banks, as well as of the river as of the sea, would
+not have seen with indifference, their countrymen too signally or too
+rigorously punished by strangers; and that they would have made common
+cause with the former to resist the latter, and perhaps even to drive
+them from the country.</p>
+
+<p>I must not omit to state that all the firearms surrendered by the
+Indians on this occasion, were found loaded with ball, and primed, with
+a little piece of cotton laid over the priming to keep the powder dry.
+This shows how soon they would acquire the use of guns, and how careful
+traders should be in intercourse with strange Indians, not to teach them
+their use.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Description of Tongue Point.&mdash;A Trip to the <i>Willamet</i>.&mdash;Arrival of
+     W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.&mdash;Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+     Lark.&mdash;Preparations for crossing the Continent.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The new proprietors of our establishment, being dissatisfied with the
+site we had chosen, came to the determination to change it; after
+surveying both sides of the river, they found no better place than the
+head-land which we had named Tongue point. This point, or to speak more
+accurately, perhaps, this cape, extends about a quarter of a mile into
+the river, being connected with the main-land by a low, narrow neck,
+over which the Indians, in stormy weather, haul their canoes in passing
+up and down the river; and terminating in an almost perpendicular rock,
+of about 250 or 300 feet elevation. This bold summit was covered with a
+dense forest of pine trees; the ascent from the lower neck was gradual
+and easy; it abounded in springs of the finest water; on either side it
+had a cove to shelter the boats necessary for a trading establishment.
+This peninsula had truly the appearance of a huge tongue. Astoria had
+been built nearer the ocean, but the advantages offered by Tongue point
+more than compensated for its greater distance. Its soil, in the rainy
+season, could be drained with little or no trouble; it was a better
+position to guard against attacks on the part of the natives, and less
+exposed to that of civilized enemies by sea or land in time of war.</p>
+
+<p>All the hands who had returned from the interior, added to those who
+were already at the Fort, consumed, in an incredibly short space of time
+the small stock of provisions which had been conveyed by the Pacific Fur
+Company to the Company of the Northwest. It became a matter of
+necessity, therefore, to seek some spot where a part, at least, could be
+sent to subsist. With these views I left the fort on the 7th February
+with a number of men, belonging to the old concern, and who had refused
+to enter the service of the new one, to proceed to the establishment on
+the <i>Willamet</i> river, under the charge of Mr. Alexander Henry, who had
+with him a number of first-rate hunters. Leaving the Columbia to ascend
+the <i>Willamet</i>, I found the banks on either side of that stream well
+wooded, but low and swampy, until I reached the first falls; having
+passed which, by making a portage, I commenced ascending a clear but
+moderately deep channel, against a swift current. The banks on either
+side were bordered with forest-trees, but behind that narrow belt,
+diversified with prairie, the landscape was magnificent; the hills were
+of moderate elevation, and rising in an amphitheatre. Deer and elk are
+found here in great abundance; and the post in charge of Mr. Henry had
+been established with a view of keeping constantly there a number of
+hunters to prepare dried venison for the use of the factory. On our
+arrival at the Columbia, considering the latitude, we had expected
+severe winter weather, such as is experienced in the same latitudes
+east; but we were soon undeceived; the mildness of the climate never
+permitted us to transport fresh provisions from the Willamet to Astoria.
+We had not a particle of salt; and the attempts we made to smoke or dry
+the venison proved abortive.</p>
+
+<p>Having left the men under my charge with Mr. Henry, I took leave of that
+gentleman, and returned. At Oak point I found Messrs. Keith and Pillet
+encamped, to pass there the season of sturgeon-fishing. They informed me
+that I was to stay with them.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly I remained at Oak point the rest of the winter, occupied in
+trading with the Indians spread all along the river for some 30 or 40
+miles above, in order to supply the factory with provisions. I used to
+take a boat with four or five men, visit every fishing station, trade
+for as much fish as would load the boat, and send her down to the fort.
+The surplus fish traded in the interval between the departure and return
+of the boat, was cut up, salted and barrelled for future use. The salt
+had been recently obtained from a quarter to be presently mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>About the middle of March Messrs. Keith and Pillet both left me and
+returned to the fort. Being now alone, I began seriously to reflect on
+my position, and it was in this interval that I positively decided to
+return to Canada. I made inquiries of the men sent up with the boats for
+fish, concerning the preparations for departure, but whether they had
+been enjoined secrecy, or were unwilling to communicate, I could learn
+nothing of what was doing below.</p>
+
+<p>At last I heard that on the 28th February a sail had appeared at the
+mouth of the river. The gentlemen of the N.W. Company at first flattered
+themselves that it was the vessel they had so long expected. They were
+soon undeceived by a letter from Mr. Hunt, which was brought to the fort
+by the Indians of <i>Baker's bay</i>. That gentleman had purchased at the
+Marquesas islands a brig called <i>The Pedlar</i>: it was on that vessel that
+he arrived, having for pilot Captain Northrop, formerly commander of
+the ship <i>Lark</i>. The latter vessel had been outfitted by Mr. Astor, and
+despatched from New York, in spite of the blockading squadron, with
+supplies for the <i>ci-devant</i> Pacific Fur Company; but unhappily she had
+been assailed by a furious tempest and capsized in lat. 16&deg; N., and
+three or four hundred miles from the Sandwich Islands. The mate who was
+sick, was drowned in the cabin, and four of the crew perished at the
+same time. The captain had the masts and rigging cut away, which caused
+the vessel to right again, though full of water. One of the hands dived
+down to the sail-maker's locker, and got out a small sail, which they
+attached to the bowsprit. He dived a second time, and brought up a box
+containing a dozen bottles of wine. For thirteen days they had no other
+sustenance but the flesh of a small shark, which they had the good
+fortune to take, and which they ate raw, and for drink, a gill of the
+wine each man <i>per diem</i>. At last the trade winds carried them upon the
+island of <i>Tahouraka</i>, where the vessel went to pieces on the reef. The
+islanders saved the crew, and seized all the goods which floated on the
+water. Mr. Hunt was then at <i>Wahoo</i>, and learned through some islanders
+from <i>Morotoi</i>, that some Americans had been wrecked on the isle of
+<i>Tahouraka</i>. He went immediately to take them off, and gave the pilotage
+of his own vessel to Captain Northrop.</p>
+
+<p>It may be imagined what was the surprise of Mr. Hunt when he saw Astoria
+under the British flag, and passed into stranger hands. But the
+misfortune was beyond remedy, and he was obliged to content himself with
+taking on board all the Americans who were at the establishment, and who
+had not entered the service of the Company of the Northwest. Messrs.
+Halsey, Seton, and Farnham were among those who embarked. I shall have
+occasion to inform the reader of the part each of them played, and how
+they reached their homes.</p>
+
+<p>When I heard that Mr. Hunt was in the river, and knowing that the
+overland expedition was to set out early in April, I raised camp at Oak
+point, and reached the fort on the 2d of that month. But the brig
+<i>Pedlar</i> had that very day got outside the river, after several
+fruitless attempts, in one of which she narrowly missed being lost on
+the bar.</p>
+
+<p>I would gladly have gone in her, had I but arrived a day sooner. I
+found, however, all things prepared for the departure of the canoes,
+which was to take place on the 4th. I got ready the few articles I
+possessed, and in spite of the very advantageous offers of the gentlemen
+of the N.W. Company, and their reiterated persuasions, aided by the
+crafty M'Dougal, to induce me to remain, at least one year more, I
+persisted in my resolution to leave the country. The journey I was about
+to undertake was a long one: it would be accompanied with great fatigues
+and many privations, and even by some dangers; but I was used to
+privations and fatigues; I had braved dangers of more than one sort; and
+even had it been otherwise, the ardent desire of revisiting my country,
+my relatives, and my friends, the hope of finding myself, in a few
+months, in their midst, would have made me overlook every other
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p>I am about, then, to quit the banks of the river Columbia, and conduct
+the reader through the mountain passes, over the plains, the forests,
+and the lakes of our continent: but I ought first to give him at least
+an idea of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as of the
+principal productions of the country that I now quit, after a sojourn of
+three years. This is what I shall try to do in the following
+chapters.<a name="FNanchor_U_21" id="FNanchor_U_21" /><a href="#Footnote_U_21" class="fnanchor">[U]</a></p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Situation of the Columbia River.&mdash;Qualities of its Soil.&mdash;Climate,
+     &amp;c.&mdash;Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The mouth of the Columbia river is situated in 46&deg; 19' north latitude,
+and 125&deg; or 126&deg; of longitude west of the meridian of Greenwich. The
+highest tides are very little over nine or ten feet, at its entrance,
+and are felt up stream for a distance of twenty-five or thirty leagues.</p>
+
+<p>During the three years I spent there, the cold never was much below the
+freezing point; and I do not think the heat ever exceeded 76&deg;. Westerly
+winds prevail from the early part of spring, and during a part of the
+summer; that wind generally springs up with the flood tide, and tempers
+the heat of the day. The northwest wind prevails during the latter part
+of summer and commencement of autumn. This last is succeeded by a
+southeast wind, which blows almost without intermission from the
+beginning of October to the end of December, or commencement of January.
+This interval is the rainy season, the most disagreeable of the year.
+Fogs (so thick that sometimes for days no object is discernible for five
+or six hundred yards from the beach), are also very prevalent.</p>
+
+<p>The surface of the soil consists (in the valleys) of a layer of black
+vegetable mould, about five or six inches thick at most; under this
+layer is found another of gray and loose, but extremely cold earth;
+below which is a bed of coarse sand and gravel, and next to that pebble
+or hard rock. On the more elevated parts, the same black vegetable mould
+is found, but much thinner, and under it is the trap rock. We found
+along the seashore, south of Point Adams, a bank of earth white as
+chalk, which we used for white-washing our walls. The natives also
+brought us several specimens of blue, red and yellow earth or clay,
+which they said was to be found at a great distance south; and also a
+sort of shining earth, resembling lead ore.<a name="FNanchor_V_22" id="FNanchor_V_22" /><a href="#Footnote_V_22" class="fnanchor">[V]</a> We found no limestone,
+although we burnt several kilns, but never could get one ounce of lime.</p>
+
+
+<p>We had brought with us from New York a variety of garden seeds, which
+were put in the ground in the month of May, 1811, on a rich piece of
+land laid out for the purpose on a sloping ground in front of our
+establishment. The garden had a fine appearance in the month of August;
+but although the plants were left in the ground until December, not one
+of them came to maturity, with the exception of the radishes, the
+turnips, and the potatoes. The turnips grew to a prodigious size; one of
+the largest we had the curiosity to weigh and measure; its circumference
+was thirty-three inches, its weight fifteen and a half pounds. The
+radishes were in full blossom in the month of December, and were left in
+the ground to perfect the seeds for the ensuing season, but they were
+all destroyed by the ground mice, who hid themselves under the stumps
+which we had not rooted out, and infested our garden. With all the care
+we could bestow on them during the passage from New York, only twelve
+potatoes were saved, and even these so shrivelled up, that we despaired
+of raising any from the few sprouts that still gave signs of life.
+Nevertheless we raised one hundred and ninety potatoes the first season,
+and after sparing a few plants for our inland traders, we planted about
+fifty or sixty hills, which produced five bushels the second year; about
+two of these were planted, and gave us a welcome crop of fifty bushels
+in the year 1813.</p>
+
+<p>It would result from these facts, that the soil on the banks of the
+river, as far as tide water, or for a distance of fifty or sixty miles,
+is very little adapted for agriculture; at all events, vegetation is
+very slow. It may be that the soil is not everywhere so cold as the spot
+we selected for our garden, and some other positions might have given a
+better reward for our labor: this supposition is rendered more than
+probable when we take into consideration the great difference in the
+indigenous vegetables of the country in different localities.</p>
+
+<p>The forest trees most common at the mouth of the river and near our
+establishment, were cedar, hemlock, white and red spruce, and alder.
+There were a few dwarf white and gray ashes; and here and there a soft
+maple. The alder grows also to a very large size; I measured some of
+twelve to fifteen inches diameter; the wood was used by us in
+preference, to make charcoal for the blacksmith's forge. But the largest
+of all the trees that I saw in the country, was a white spruce: this
+tree, which had lost its top branches, and bore evident marks of having
+been struck by lightning, was a mere, straight trunk of about eighty to
+one hundred feet in height; its bark whitened by age, made it very
+conspicuous among the other trees with their brown bark and dark
+foliage, like a huge column of white marble. It stood on the slope of a
+hill immediately in the rear of our palisades. Seven of us placed
+ourselves round its trunk, and we could not embrace it by extending our
+arms and touching merely the tips of our fingers; we measured it
+afterward in a more regular manner, and found it forty-two feet in
+circumference. It kept the same size, or nearly the same, to the very
+top.</p>
+
+<p>We had it in contemplation at one time to construct a circular staircase
+to its summit, and erect a platform thereon for an observatory, but more
+necessary and pressing demands on our time made us abandon the project.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance above Astoria, the oak and ash are plentiful, but
+neither of these is of much value or beauty.</p>
+
+<p>From the middle of June to the middle of October, we had abundance of
+wild fruit; first, strawberries, almost white, small but very sweet;
+then raspberries, both red and orange color. These grow on a bush
+sometimes twelve feet in height: they are not sweet, but of a large
+size.</p>
+
+<p>The months of July and August furnish a small berry of an agreeable,
+slightly acid flavor; this berry grows on a slender bush of some eight
+to nine feet high, with small round leaves; they are in size like a wild
+cherry: some are blue, while others are of a cherry red: the last being
+smaller; they have no pits, or stones in them, but seeds, such as are to
+be seen in currants.</p>
+
+<p>I noticed in the month of August another berry growing in bunches or
+grapes like the currant, on a bush very similar to the currant bush: the
+leaves of this shrub resemble those of the laurel: they are very thick
+and always green. The fruit is oblong, and disposed in two rows on the
+stem: the extremity of the berry is open, having a little speck or tuft
+like that of an apple. It is not of a particularly fine flavor, but it
+is wholesome, and one may eat a quantity of it, without inconvenience.
+The natives make great use of it; they prepare it for the winter by
+bruising and drying it; after which it is moulded into cakes according
+to fancy, and laid up for use. There is also a great abundance of
+cranberries, which proved very useful as an antiscorbutic.</p>
+
+<p>We found also the whortleberry, chokecherries, gooseberries, and black
+currants with wild crab-apples: these last grow in clusters, are of
+small size and very tart. On the upper part of the river are found
+blackberries, hazel-nuts, acorns, &amp;c. The country also possesses a great
+variety of nutritive roots: the natives make great use of those which
+have the virtue of curing or preventing the scurvy. We ate freely of
+them with the same intention, and with the same success. One of these
+roots, which much resembles a small onion, serves them, in some sort, in
+place of cheese. Having gathered a sufficient quantity, they bake them
+with red-hot stones, until the steam ceases to ooze from the layer of
+grass and earth with which the roots are covered; then they pound them
+into a paste, and make the paste into loaves, of five or six pounds
+weight: the taste is not unlike liquorice, but not of so sickly a
+sweetness. When we made our first voyage up the river the natives gave
+us square biscuits, very well worked, and printed with different
+figures. These are made of a white root, pounded, reduced to paste, and
+dried in the sun. They call it <i>Chapaleel</i>: it is not very palatable;
+nor very nutritive.</p>
+
+<p>But the principal food of the natives of the Columbia is fish. The
+salmon-fishery begins in July: that fish is here of an exquisite flavor,
+but it is extremely fat and oily; which renders it unwholesome for those
+who are not accustomed to it, and who eat too great a quantity: thus
+several of our people were attacked with diarrhoea in a few days after
+we began to make this fish our ordinary sustenance; but they found a
+remedy in the raspberries of the country which have an astringent
+property.</p>
+
+<p>The months of August and September furnish excellent sturgeon. This fish
+varies exceedingly in size; I have seen some eleven feet long; and we
+took one that weighed, after the removal of the eggs and intestines,
+three hundred and ninety pounds. We took out nine gallons of roe. The
+sturgeon does not enter the river in so great quantities as the salmon.</p>
+
+<p>In October and November we had salmon too, but of a quite different
+species&mdash;lean, dry and insipid. It differs from the other sort in form
+also; having very long teeth, and a hooked nose like the beak of a
+parrot. Our men termed it in derision &quot;seven bark salmon,&quot; because it
+had almost no nutritive substance.</p>
+
+<p>February brings a small fish about the size of a sardine. It has an
+exquisite flavor, and is taken in immense quantities, by means of a
+scoop net, which the Indians, seated in canoes, plunge into the schools:
+but the season is short, not even lasting two weeks.</p>
+
+<p>The principal quadrupeds of the country are the elk, the black and white
+tailed deer; four species of bear, distinguished chiefly by the color of
+the fur or <i>poil</i>, to wit, the black, brown, white and grisly bear; the
+grisly bear is extremely ferocious; the white is found on the seashore
+toward the north; the wolf, the panther, the catamount, the lynx, the
+raccoon, the ground hog, opossum, mink, fisher, beaver, and the land and
+sea otter.<a name="FNanchor_W_23" id="FNanchor_W_23" /><a href="#Footnote_W_23" class="fnanchor">[W]</a> The sea otter has the handsomest fur that is known; the
+skin surpasses that of the land variety in size and in the beauty of the
+<i>poil</i>; the most esteemed color is the silver gray, which is highly
+prized in the Indies, and commands a great price.</p>
+
+<p>The most remarkable birds are the eagle, the turkey-buzzard, the hawk,
+pelican, heron, gull, cormorant, crane, swan, and a great variety of
+wild ducks and geese. The pigeon, woodcock, and pheasant, are found in
+the forests as with us.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Manners, Customs, Occupations, &amp;c., of the Natives on the River
+     Columbia.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The natives inhabiting on the Columbia, from the mouth of that river to
+the falls, that is to say, on a space extending about 250 miles from
+east to west, are, generally speaking, of low stature, few of them
+passing five feet six inches, and many not even five feet. They pluck
+out the beard, in the manner of the other Indians of North America; but
+a few of the old men only suffer a tuft to grow upon their chins. On
+arriving among them we were exceedingly surprised to see that they had
+almost all flattened heads. This configuration is not a natural
+deformity, but an effect of art, caused by compression of the skull in
+infancy. It shocks strangers extremely, especially at first sight;
+nevertheless, among these barbarians it is an indispensable ornament:
+and when we signified to them how much this mode of flattening the
+forehead appeared to us to violate nature and good taste, they answered
+that it was only slaves who had not their heads flattened. The slaves,
+in fact, have the usual rounded head, and they are not permitted to
+flatten the foreheads of their children, destined to bear the chains of
+their sires. The natives of the Columbia procure these slaves from the
+neighboring tribes, and from the interior, in exchange for beads and
+furs. They treat them with humanity while their services are useful, but
+as soon as they become incapable of labor, neglect them and suffer them
+to perish of want. When dead, they throw their bodies, without ceremony,
+under the stump of an old decayed tree, or drag them to the woods to be
+devoured by the wolves and vultures.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians of the Columbia are of a light copper color, active in body,
+and, above all, excellent swimmers. They are addicted to theft, or
+rather, they make no scruple of laying hands on whatever suits them in
+the property of strangers, whenever they can find an opportunity. The
+goods and effects of European manufacture are so precious in the eyes of
+these barbarians, that they rarely resist the temptation of stealing
+them.</p>
+
+<p>These savages are not addicted to intemperance, unlike, in that respect
+the other American Indians, if we must not also except the Patagonians,
+who, like the Flatheads, regard intoxicating drinks as poisons, and
+drunkenness as disgraceful. I will relate a fact in point: one of the
+sons of the chief Comcomly being at the establishment one day, some of
+the gentlemen amused themselves with making him drink wine, and he was
+very soon drunk. He was sick in consequence, and remained in a state of
+stupor for two days. The old chief came to reproach us, saying that we
+had degraded his son by exposing him to the ridicule of the slaves, and
+besought us not to induce him to take strong liquors in future.</p>
+
+<p>The men go entirely naked, not concealing any part of their bodies. Only
+in winter they throw over the shoulders a panther's skin, or else a
+sort of mantle made of the skins of wood-rats sewed together. In rainy
+weather I have seen them wear a mantle of rush mats, like a Roman toga,
+or the vestment which a priest wears in celebrating mass; thus equipped,
+and furnished with a conical hat made from fibrous roots and
+impermeable, they may call themselves rain-proof. The women, in addition
+to the mantle of skins, wear a petticoat made of the cedar bark, which
+they attach round the girdle, and which reaches to the middle of the
+thigh. It is a little longer behind than before, and is fabricated in
+the following manner: They strip off the fine bark of the cedar, soak it
+as one soaks hemp, and when it is drawn out into fibres, work it into a
+fringe; then with a strong cord they bind the fringes together. With so
+poor a vestment they contrive to satisfy the requirements of modesty;
+when they stand it drapes them fairly enough; and when they squat down
+in their manner, it falls between their legs, leaving nothing exposed
+but the bare knees and thighs. Some of the younger women twist the
+fibres of bark into small cords, knotted at the ends, and so form the
+petticoat, disposed in a fringe, like the first, but more easily kept
+clean and of better appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Cleanliness is not a virtue among these females, who, in that respect,
+resemble the other Indian women of the continent. They anoint the body
+and dress the hair with fish oil, which does not diffuse an agreeable
+perfume. Their hair (which both sexes wear long) is jet black; it is
+badly combed, but parted in the middle, as is the custom of the sex
+everywhere, and kept shining by the fish-oil before-mentioned.
+Sometimes, in imitation of the men, they paint the whole body with a red
+earth mixed with fish-oil. Their ornaments consist of bracelets of
+brass, which they wear indifferently on the wrists and ankles; of
+strings of beads of different colors (they give a preference to the
+blue), and displayed in great profusion around the neck, and on the arms
+and legs; and of white shells, called <i>Haiqua</i>, which are their ordinary
+circulating medium. These shells are found beyond the straits of <i>Juan
+de Fuca</i>, and are from one to four inches long, and about half an inch
+in diameter: they are a little curved and naturally perforated: the
+longest are most valued. The price of all commodities is reckoned in
+these shells; a fathom string of the largest of them is worth about ten
+beaver-skins.</p>
+
+<p>Although a little less slaves than the greater part of the Indian women
+elsewhere, the women on the Columbia are, nevertheless, charged with the
+most painful labors; they fetch water and wood, and carry the goods in
+their frequent changes of residence; they clean the fish and cut it up
+for drying; they prepare the food and cook the fruits in their season.
+Among their principal occupations is that of making rush mats, baskets
+for gathering roots, and hats very ingeniously wrought. As they want
+little clothing, they do not sew much, and the men have the needle in
+hand oftener than they.</p>
+
+<p>The men are not lazy, especially during the fishing season. Not being
+hunters, and eating, consequently, little flesh-meat (although they are
+fond of it), fish makes, as I have observed, their principal diet. They
+profit, therefore, by the season when it is to be had, by taking as much
+as they can; knowing that the intervals will be periods of famine and
+abstinence, unless they provide sufficiently beforehand.</p>
+
+<p>Their canoes are all made of cedar, and of a single trunk: we saw some
+which were five feet wide at midships, and thirty feet in length; these
+are the largest, and will carry from 25 to 30 men; the smallest will
+carry but two or three. The bows terminate in a very elongated point,
+running out four or five feet from the water line. It constitutes a
+separate piece, very ingeniously attached, and serves to break the surf
+in landing, or the wave on a rough sea. In landing they put the canoe
+round, so as to strike the beach stern on. Their oars or paddles are
+made of ash, and are about five feet long, with a broad blade, in the
+shape of an inverted crescent, and a cross at the top, like the handle
+of a crutch. The object of the crescent shape of the blade is to be able
+to draw it, edge-wise, through the water without making any noise, when
+they hunt the sea-otter, an animal which can only be caught when it is
+lying asleep on the rocks, and which has the sense of hearing very
+acute. All their canoes are painted red, and fancifully decorated.</p>
+
+<p>Their houses, constructed of cedar, are remarkable for their form and
+size: some of them are one hundred feet in length by thirty or forty
+feet in width. They are constructed as follows: An oblong square of the
+intended size of the building is dug out to the depth of two or three
+feet; a double row of cedar posts is driven into the earth about ten
+feet apart; between these the planks are laid, overlapping each other to
+the requisite height. The roof is formed by a ridge-pole laid on taller
+posts, notched to receive it, and is constructed with rafters and planks
+laid clapboard-wise, and secured by cords for want of nails. When the
+house is designed for several families, there is a door for each, and a
+separate fireplace; the smoke escapes through an aperture formed by
+removing one of the boards of the roof. The door is low, of an oval
+shape, and is provided with a ladder, cut out of a log, to descend into
+the lodge. The entrance is generally effected stern-foremost.</p>
+
+<p>The kitchen utensils consist of plates of ash-wood, bowls of fibrous
+roots, and a wooden kettle: with these they succeed in cooking their
+fish and meat in less time than we take with the help of pots and
+stewpans. See how they do it! Having heated a number of stones red-hot,
+they plunge them, one by one, in the vessel which is to contain the food
+to be prepared; as soon as the water boils, they put in the fish or
+meat, with some more heated stones on top, and cover up the whole with
+small rush mats, to retain the steam. In an incredibly short space of
+time the article is taken out and placed on a wooden platter, perfectly
+done and very palatable. The broth is taken out also, with a ladle of
+wood or horn.</p>
+
+<p>It will be asked, no doubt, what instruments these savages use in the
+construction of their canoes and their houses. To cause their patience
+and industry to be admired as much as they deserve, it will be
+sufficient for me to mention that we did not find among them a single
+hatchet: their only tools consisted of an inch or half-inch chisel,
+usually made of an old file, and of a mallet, which was nothing but an
+oblong stone. With these wretched implements, and wedges made of hemlock
+knots, steeped in oil and hardened by the fire, they would undertake to
+cut down the largest cedars of the forest, to dig them out and fashion
+them into canoes, to split them, and get out the boards wherewith to
+build their houses. Such achievements with such means, are a marvel of
+ingenuity and patience.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.&mdash;Their Wars.&mdash;Their
+     Marriages.&mdash;Medicine Men.&mdash;Funeral Ceremonies.&mdash;Religious
+     Notions.&mdash;Language.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The politics of the natives of the Columbia are a simple affair: each
+village has its chief, but that chief does not seem to exercise a great
+authority over his fellow-citizens. Nevertheless, at his death, they pay
+him great honors: they use a kind of mourning, which consists in
+painting the face with black, in lieu of gay colors; they chant his
+funeral song or oration for a whole month. The chiefs are considered in
+proportion to their riches: such a chief has a great many wives, slaves,
+and strings of beads&mdash;he is accounted a great chief. These barbarians
+approach in that respect to certain civilized nations, among whom the
+worth of a man is estimated by the quantity of gold he possesses.</p>
+
+<p>As all the villages form so many independent sovereignties, differences
+sometimes arise, whether between the chiefs or the tribes. Ordinarily,
+these terminate by compensations equivalent to the injury. But when the
+latter is of a grave character, like a murder (which is rare), or the
+abduction of a woman (which is very common), the parties, having made
+sure of a number of young braves to aid them, prepare for war. Before
+commencing hostilities, however, they give notice of the day when they
+will proceed to attack the hostile village; not following in that
+respect the custom of almost all other American Indians, who are wont to
+burst upon their enemy unawares, and to massacre or carry off men,
+women, and children; these people, on the contrary, embark in their
+canoes, which on these occasions are paddled by the women, repair to the
+hostile village, enter into parley, and do all they can to terminate the
+affair amicably: sometimes a third party becomes mediator between the
+first two, and of course observes an exact neutrality. If those who seek
+justice do not obtain it to their satisfaction, they retire to some
+distance, and the combat begins, and is continued for some time with
+fury on both sides; but as soon as one or two men are killed, the party
+which has lost these, owns itself beaten and the battle ceases. If it is
+the people of the village attacked who are worsted, the others do not
+retire without receiving presents. When the conflict is postponed till
+the next day (for they never fight but in open daylight, as if to render
+nature witness of their exploits), they keep up frightful cries all
+night long, and, when they are sufficiently near to understand each
+other, defy one another by menaces, railleries, and sarcasms, like the
+heroes of Homer and Virgil. The women and children are always removed
+from the village before the action.</p>
+
+<p>Their combats are almost all maritime: for they fight ordinarily in
+their pirogues, which they take care to careen, so as to present the
+broadside to the enemy, and half lying down, avoid the greater part of
+the arrows let fly at them.</p>
+
+<p>But the chief reason of the bloodlessness of their combats is the
+inefficiency of their offensive weapons, and the excellence of their
+defensive armor. Their offensive arms are merely a bow and arrow, and a
+kind of double-edged sabre, about two and a half feet long, and six
+inches wide in the blade: they rarely come to sufficiently close
+quarters to make use of the last. For defensive armor they wear a
+cassock or tunic of elk-skin double, descending to the ankles, with
+holes for the arms. It is impenetrable by their arrows, which can not
+pierce two thicknesses of leather; and as their heads are also covered
+with a sort of helmet, the neck is almost the only part in which they
+can be wounded. They have another kind of corslet, made like the corsets
+of our ladies, of splinters of hard wood interlaced with nettle twine.
+The warrior who wears this cuirass does not use the tunic of elk-skin;
+he is consequently less protected, but a great deal more free; the said
+tunic being very heavy and very stiff.</p>
+
+<p>It is almost useless to observe that, in their military expeditions,
+they have their bodies and faces daubed with different paints, often of
+the most extravagant designs. I remember to have seen a war-chief, with
+one exact half of his face painted white and the other half black.</p>
+
+<p>Their marriages are conducted with a good deal of ceremony. When a young
+man seeks a girl in marriage, his parents make the proposals to those of
+the intended bride, and when it has been agreed upon what presents the
+future bridegroom is to offer to the parents of the bride, all parties
+assemble at the house of the latter, whither the neighbors are invited
+to witness the contract. The presents, which consist of slaves, strings
+of beads, copper bracelets, <i>haiqua</i> shells, &amp;c., are distributed by the
+young man, who, on his part receives as many, and sometimes more,
+according to the means or the munificence of the parents of his
+betrothed. The latter is then led forward by the old matrons and
+presented to the young man, who takes her as his wife, and all retire to
+their quarters.</p>
+
+<p>The men are not very scrupulous in their choice, and take small pains to
+inform themselves what conduct a young girl has observed before her
+nuptials; and it must be owned that few marriages would take place, if
+the youth would only espouse maidens without reproach on the score of
+chastity; for the unmarried girls are by no means scrupulous in that
+particular, and their parents give them, on that head, full liberty. But
+once the marriage is contracted, the spouses observe toward each other
+an inviolable fidelity; adultery is almost unknown among them, and the
+woman who should be guilty of it would be punished with death. At the
+same time, the husband may repudiate his wife, and the latter may then
+unite herself in marriage to another man. Polygamy is permitted, indeed
+is customary; there are some who have as many as four or five wives; and
+although it often happens that the husband loves one better than the
+rest, they never show any jealousy, but live, together in the most
+perfect concord.<a name="FNanchor_X_24" id="FNanchor_X_24" /><a href="#Footnote_X_24" class="fnanchor">[X]</a></p>
+
+<p>There are charlatans everywhere, but they are more numerous among
+savages than anywhere else, because among these ignorant and
+superstitious people the trade is at once more profitable and less
+dangerous. As soon as a native of the Columbia is indisposed, no matter
+what the malady, they send for the medicine man, who treats the patient
+in the absurd manner usually adopted by these impostors, and with such
+violence of manipulation, that often a sick man, whom a timely bleeding
+or purgative would have saved, is carried off by a sudden death.</p>
+
+<p>They deposite their dead in canoes, on rocks sufficiently elevated not
+to be overflowed by the spring freshets. By the side of the dead are
+laid his bow, his arrows, and some of his fishing implements; if it is
+a woman, her beads and bracelets: the wives, the relatives and the
+slaves of the defunct cut their hair in sign of grief, and for several
+days, at the rising and setting of the sun, go to some distance from the
+village to chant a funeral song.</p>
+
+<p>These people have not, properly speaking, a public worship.<a name="FNanchor_Y_25" id="FNanchor_Y_25" /><a href="#Footnote_Y_25" class="fnanchor">[Y]</a> I could
+never perceive, during my residence among them, that they worshipped any
+idol. They had, nevertheless, some small sculptured figures; but they
+appeared to hold them in light esteem, offering to barter them for
+trifles.</p>
+
+<p>Having travelled with one of the sons of the chief of the Chinooks
+(Comcomly), an intelligent and communicative young man, I put to him
+several questions touching their religious belief, and the following
+is, in substance, what he told me respecting it: Men, according to their
+ideas, were created by a divinity whom they name <i>Etalapass</i>; but they
+were imperfect, having a mouth that was not opened, eyes that were fast
+closed, hands and feet that were not moveable; in a word, they were
+rather statues of flesh, than living men. A second divinity, whom they
+call <i>Ecannum</i>, less powerful, but more benign than the former, having
+seen men in their state of imperfection, took a sharp stone and laid
+open their mouths and eyes; he gave agility, also, to their feet, and
+motion to their hands. This compassionate divinity was not content with
+conferring these first benefits; he taught men to make canoes, paddles,
+nets, and, in a word, all the tools and instruments they use. He did
+still more: he threw great rocks into the river, to obstruct the ascent
+of the salmon, in order that they might take as many as they wanted.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of the Columbia further believe, that the men who have been
+good citizens, good fathers, good husbands, and good fishermen, who
+have not committed murder, &amp;c., will be perfectly happy after their
+death, and will go to a country where they will find fish, fruit, &amp;c.,
+in abundance; and that, on the contrary, those who have lived wickedly,
+will inhabit a country of fasting and want, where they will eat nothing
+but bitter roots, and have nothing to drink but salt water.</p>
+
+<p>If these notions in regard to the origin and future destiny of man are
+not exactly conformed to sound reason or to divine revelation, it will
+be allowed that they do not offer the absurdities with which the
+mythologies of many ancient nations abound.<a name="FNanchor_Z_26" id="FNanchor_Z_26" /><a href="#Footnote_Z_26" class="fnanchor">[Z]</a> The article which makes
+skill in fishing a virtue worthy of being compensated in the other
+world, does not disfigure the salutary and consoling dogma of the
+immortality of the soul, and that of future rewards and punishments, so
+much as one is at first tempted to think; for if we reflect a little, we
+shall discover that the skilful fisherman, in laboring for himself,
+labors also for society; he is a useful citizen, who contributes, as
+much as lies in his power, to avert from his fellow-men the scourge of
+famine; he is a religious man, who honors the divinity by making use of
+his benefits. Surely a great deal of the theology of a future life
+prevalent among civilized men, does not excel this in profundity.</p>
+
+<p>It is not to be expected that men perfectly ignorant, like these
+Indians, should be free from superstitions: one of the most ridiculous
+they have, regards the method of preparing and eating fish. In the month
+of July, 1811, the natives brought us at first a very scanty supply of
+the fresh salmon, from the fear that we would cut the fish crosswise
+instead of lengthwise; being persuaded that if we did so, the river
+would be obstructed, and the fishing ruined. Having reproached the chief
+on that account, they brought us a greater quantity, but all cooked, and
+which, not to displease them, it was necessary to eat before sunset.
+Re-assured at last by our solemn promises not to cut the fish crosswise,
+they supplied us abundantly during the remainder of the season.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the vices that may be laid to the charge of the natives of
+the Columbia, I regard them as nearer to a state of civilization than
+any of the tribes who dwell east of the Rocky mountains. They did not
+appear to me so attached to their customs that they could not easily
+adopt those of civilized nations: they would dress themselves willingly
+in the European mode, if they had the means. To encourage this taste, we
+lent pantaloons to the chiefs who visited us, when they wished to enter
+our houses, never allowing them to do it in a state of nudity. They
+possess, in an eminent degree, the qualities opposed to indolence,
+improvidence, and stupidity: the chiefs, above all, are distinguished
+for their good sense and intelligence. Generally speaking, they have a
+ready intellect and a tenacious memory. Thus old Comcomly recognised the
+mate of the <i>Albatross</i> as having visited the country sixteen years
+before, and recalled to the latter the name of the captain under whom he
+had sailed at that period.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Chinook</i> language is spoken by all the nations from the mouth of
+the Columbia to the falls. It is hard and difficult to pronounce, for
+strangers; being full of gutturals, like the Gaelic. The combinations
+<i>thl</i>, or <i>tl</i>, and <i>lt</i>, are as frequent in the Chinook as in the
+Mexican.<a name="FNanchor_AA_27" id="FNanchor_AA_27" /><a href="#Footnote_AA_27" class="fnanchor">[AA]</a></p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Astoria or Fort George.&mdash;Accident.&mdash;Passage of the
+     Dalles or Narrows.&mdash;Great Columbian Desert.&mdash;Aspect of the
+     Country.&mdash;Wallawalla and Shaptin Rivers.&mdash;Rattlesnakes.&mdash;Some
+     Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>We quitted Fort George (or Astoria, if you please) on Monday morning,
+the 4th of April, 1814, in ten canoes, five of which were of bark and
+five of cedar wood, carrying each seven men as crew, and two passengers,
+in all ninety persons, and all well armed. Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish, D.
+Stuart, J. Clarke, B. Pillet, W. Wallace, D. M'Gillis, D. M'Kenzie, &amp;c.,
+were of the party. Nothing remarkable occurred to us as far as the first
+falls, which we reached on the 10th. The portage was effected
+immediately, and we encamped on an island for the night. Our numbers
+had caused the greater part of the natives to take to flight, and those
+who remained in the villages showed the most pacific dispositions. They
+sold us four horses and thirty dogs, which were immediately slaughtered
+for food.</p>
+
+<p>We resumed our route on the 11th, at an early hour. The wind was
+favorable, but blew with violence. Toward evening, the canoe in which
+Mr. M'Tavish was, in doubling a point of rock, was run under by its
+press of sail, and sunk. Happily the river was not deep at this place;
+no one was drowned; and we succeeded in saving all the goods. This
+accident compelled us to camp at an early hour.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th, we arrived at a rapid called the <i>Dalles</i>: this is a
+channel cut by nature through the rocks, which are here almost
+perpendicular: the channel is from 150 to 300 feet wide, and about two
+miles long. The whole body of the river rushes through it, with great
+violence, and renders navigation impracticable. The portage occupied us
+till dusk. Although we had not seen a single Indian in the course of the
+day, we kept sentinels on duty all night: for it was here that Messrs.
+Stuart and Reed were attacked by the natives.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th, we made two more portages, and met Indians, of whom we
+purchased horses and wood. We camped early on a sandy plain, where we
+passed a bad night; the wind, which blew violently, raised clouds of
+sand, which incommoded us greatly, and spoiled every mouthful of food we
+took.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th and 15th, we passed what are called the Great Plains of the
+Columbia. From the top of the first rapid to this point, the aspect of
+the country becomes more and more <i>triste</i> and disagreeable; one meets
+at first nothing but bare hills, which scarcely offer a few isolated
+pines, at a great distance from each other; after that, the earth,
+stripped of verdure, does not afford you the sight of a single shrub;
+the little grass which grows in that arid soil, appears burnt by the
+rigor of the climate. The natives who frequent the banks of the river,
+for the salmon fishery, have no other wood but that which they take
+floating down. We passed several rapids, and a small stream called
+Utalah, which flows from the southeast.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th, we found the river narrowed; the banks rose on either side
+in elevations, without, however, offering a single tree. We reached the
+river <i>Wallawalla</i>, which empties into the Columbia on the southeast. It
+is narrow at its confluence, and is not navigable for any great
+distance. A range of mountains was visible to the S.E., about fifty or
+sixty miles off. Behind these mountains the country becomes again flat
+and sandy, and is inhabited by a tribe called the <i>Snakes</i>. We found on
+the left bank of the <i>Wallawalla</i>, an encampment of Indians, consisting
+of about twenty lodges. They sold us six dogs and eight horses, the
+greater part extremely lean. We killed two of the horses immediately: I
+mounted one of the six that remained; Mr. Ross took another; and we
+drove the other four before us. Toward the decline of day we passed the
+river <i>Lewis</i>, called, in the language of the country, the <i>Sha-ap-tin</i>.
+It comes from the S.E., and is the same that Lewis and Clarke descended
+in 1805. The <i>Sha-ap-tin</i> appeared to me to have little depth, and to be
+about 300 yards wide, at its confluence.</p>
+
+<p>The country through which we were now passing, was a mingling of hills,
+steep rocks, and valleys covered with wormwood; the stems of which shrub
+are nearly six inches thick, and might serve for fuel. We killed six
+rattlesnakes on the 15th, and on the 16th saw a great many more among
+the rocks. These dangerous reptiles appeared to be very numerous in this
+part of the country. The plains are also inhabited by a little
+quadruped, only about eight or nine inches in length, and approaching
+the dog in form. These animals have the hair, or <i>poil</i>, of a reddish
+brown, and strong fore-paws, armed with long claws which serve them to
+dig out their holes under the earth. They have a great deal of
+curiosity: as soon as they hear a noise they come out of their holes and
+bark. They are not vicious, but, though easily tamed, can not be
+domesticated.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of the upper Columbia, beginning at the falls, differ
+essentially in language, manners, and habits, from those of whom I have
+spoken in the preceding chapters. They do not dwell in villages, like
+the latter, but are nomads, like the Tartars and the Arabs of the
+desert: their women are more industrious, and the young girls more
+reserved and chaste than those of the populations lower down. They do
+not go naked, but both sexes wear habits made of dressed deer-skin,
+which they take care to rub with chalk, to keep them clean and white.
+They are almost always seen on horseback, and are in general good
+riders; they pursue the deer and penetrate even to Missouri, to kill
+buffalo, the flesh of which they dry, and bring it back on their horses,
+to make their principal food during the winter. These expeditions are
+not free from danger; for they have a great deal to apprehend from the
+<i>Black-feet</i>, who are their enemies. As this last tribe is powerful and
+ferocious, the <i>Snakes</i>, the <i>Pierced-noses</i> or <i>Sha-ap-tins</i>, the
+<i>Flatheads</i>, &amp;c., make common cause against them, when the former go to
+hunt east of the mountains. They set out with their families, and the
+cavalcade often numbers two thousand horses. When they have the good
+fortune not to encounter the enemy, they return with the spoils of an
+abundant chase; they load a part of their horses with the hides and
+beef, and return home to pass the winter in peace. Sometimes, on the
+contrary, they are so harassed by the Blackfeet, who surprise them in
+the night and carry off their horses, that they are forced to return
+light-handed, and then they have nothing to eat but roots, all the
+winter.</p>
+
+<p>These Indians are passionately fond of horseraces: by the bets they make
+on these occasions they sometimes lose all that they possess. The women
+ride, as well as the men. For a bridle they use a cord of horse-hair,
+which they attach round the animal's mouth; with that he is easily
+checked, and by laying the hand on his neck, is made to wheel to this
+side or that. The saddle is a cushion of stuffed deer-skin, very
+suitable for the purpose to which it is destined, rarely hurting the
+horse, and not fatiguing the rider so much as our European saddles. The
+stirrups are pieces of hard wood, ingeniously wrought, and of the same
+shape as those which are used in civilized countries. They are covered
+with a piece of deer-skin, which is sewed on wet, and in drying stiffens
+and becomes hard and firm. The saddles for women differ in form, being
+furnished with the antlers of a deer, so as to resemble the high
+pommelled saddle of the Mexican ladies.</p>
+
+<p>They procure their horses from the herds of these animals which are
+found in a wild state in the country extending between the northern
+latitudes and the gulf of Mexico, and which sometimes count a thousand
+or fifteen hundred in a troop. These horses come from New Mexico, and
+are of Spanish race. We even saw some which had been marked with a hot
+iron by Spaniards. Some of our men, who had been at the south, told me
+that they had seen among the Indians, bridles, the bits of which were of
+silver. The form of the saddles used by the females, proves that they
+have taken their pattern from the Spanish ones destined for the same
+use. One of the partners of the N.W. Company (Mr. M'Tavish) assured us
+that he had seen among the <i>Spokans</i>, an old woman who told him that she
+had seen men ploughing the earth; she told him that she had also seen
+churches, which she made him understand by imitating the sound of a bell
+and the action of pulling a bell-rope; and further to confirm her
+account, made the sign of the cross. That gentleman concluded that she
+had been made prisoner and sold to the Spaniards on the <i>Del Norte</i>; but
+I think it more probable it was nearer, in North California, at the
+mission of <i>San Carlos</i> or <i>San Francisco</i>.</p>
+
+<p>As the manner of taking wild horses should not be generally known to my
+readers, I will relate it here in few words. The Indian who wishes to
+capture some horses, mounts one of his fleetest coursers, being armed
+with a long cord of horsehair, one end of which is attached to his
+saddle, and the other is a running noose. Arrived at the herd, he dashes
+into the midst of it, and flinging his cord, or <i>lasso</i>, passes it
+dexterously over the head of the animal he selects; then wheeling his
+courser, draws the cord after him; the wild horse, finding itself
+strangling, makes little resistance; the Indian then approaches, ties
+his fore and hind legs together, and leaves him till he has taken in
+this manner as many as he can. He then drives them home before him, and
+breaks them in at leisure.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.&mdash;Her Narrative.&mdash;Reflections of
+     the Author.&mdash;Priest's Rapid.&mdash;River Okenakan.&mdash;Kettle Falls.&mdash;Pine
+     Moss.&mdash;Scarcity of Food.&mdash;Rivers, Lakes, &amp;c.&mdash;Accident.&mdash;A
+     Rencontre.&mdash;First View of the Rocky Mountains.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 17th, the fatigue I had experienced the day before, on horseback,
+obliged me to re-embark in my canoe. About eight o'clock, we passed a
+little river flowing from the N.W. We perceived, soon after, three
+canoes, the persons in which were struggling with their paddles to
+overtake us. As we were still pursuing our way, we heard a child's voice
+cry out in French&mdash;&quot;<i>arr&ecirc;tez donc, arr&ecirc;tez donc</i>&quot;&mdash;(stop! stop!). We put
+ashore, and the canoes having joined us, we perceived in one of them the
+wife and children of a man named <i>Pierre Dorion</i>, a hunter, who had been
+sent on with a party of eight, under the command of Mr. J. Reed, among
+the <i>Snakes</i>, to join there the hunters left by Messrs. Hunt and Crooks,
+near Fort Henry, and to secure horses and provisions for our journey.
+This woman informed us, to our no small dismay, of the tragical fate of
+all those who composed that party. She told us that in the month of
+January, the hunters being dispersed here and there, setting their traps
+for the beaver, Jacob Regner, Gilles Leclerc, and Pierre Dorion, her
+husband, had been attacked by the natives. Leclerc, having been mortally
+wounded, reached her tent or hut, where he expired in a few minutes,
+after having announced to her that her husband had been killed. She
+immediately took two horses that were near the lodge, mounted her two
+boys upon them, and fled in all haste to the wintering house of Mr.
+Reed, which was about five days' march from the spot where her husband
+fell. Her horror and disappointment were extreme, when she found the
+house&mdash;a log cabin&mdash;deserted, and on drawing nearer, was soon convinced,
+by the traces of blood, that Mr. Reed also had been murdered. No time
+was to be lost in lamentations, and she had immediately fled toward the
+mountains south of the <i>Wallawalla</i>, where, being impeded by the depth
+of the snow, she was forced to winter, having killed both the horses to
+subsist herself and her children. But at last, finding herself out of
+provisions, and the snow beginning to melt, she had crossed the
+mountains with her boys, hoping to find some more humane Indians, who
+would let her live among them till the boats from the fort below should
+be ascending the river in the spring, and so reached the banks of the
+Columbia, by the Wallawalla. Here, indeed, the natives had received her
+with much hospitality, and it was the Indians of Wallawalla who brought
+her to us. We made them some presents to repay their care and pains, and
+they returned well satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>The persons who lost their lives in this unfortunate wintering party,
+were Mr. John Reed, (clerk), Jacob Regner, John Hubbough, Pierre Dorion
+(hunters), Gilles Leclerc, Fran&ccedil;ois Landry, J.B. Turcotte, Andr&eacute; la
+Chapelle and Pierre De Launay, (<i>voyageurs</i>).<a name="FNanchor_AB_28" id="FNanchor_AB_28" /><a href="#Footnote_AB_28" class="fnanchor">[AB]</a> We had no doubt that
+this massacre was an act of vengeance, on the part of the natives, in
+retaliation for the death of one of their people, whom Mr. John Clark
+had hanged for theft the spring before. This fact, the massacre on the
+Tonquin, the unhappy end of Captain Cook, and many other similar
+examples, prove how carefully the Europeans, who have relations with a
+barbarous people, should abstain from acting in regard to them on the
+footing of too marked an inequality, and especially from punishing their
+offences according to usages and codes, in which there is too often an
+enormous disproportion between the crime and the punishment. If these
+pretended exemplary punishments seem to have a good effect at first
+sight, they almost always produce terrible consequences in the sequel.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th, we passed <i>Priest's Rapid</i>, so named by Mr. Stuart and his
+people, who saw at this spot, in 1811, as they were ascending the
+river, a number of savages, one of whom was performing on the rest
+certain aspersions and other ceremonies, which had the air of being
+coarse imitations of the Catholic worship. For our part, we met here
+some Indians of whom we bought two horses. The banks of the river at
+this place are tolerably high, but the country back of them is flat and
+uninteresting.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th, we arrived at a place where the bed of the river is
+extremely contracted, and where we were obliged to make a portage.
+Messrs. J. Stuart and Clarke left us here, to proceed on horseback to
+the Spokan trading house, to procure there the provisions which would be
+necessary for us, in order to push on to the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, we lightened of their cargoes, three canoes, in which those
+who were to cross the continent embarked, to get on with greater speed.
+We passed several rapids, and began to see mountains covered with snow.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22d, we began to see some pines on the ridge of the neighboring
+hills; and at evening we encamped under <i>trees</i>, a thing which had not
+happened to us since the 12th.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23d, toward 9, A.M., we reached the trading post established by
+D. Stuart, at the mouth of the river <i>Okenakan</i>. The spot appeared to us
+charming, in comparison with the country through which we had journeyed
+for twelve days past: the two rivers here meeting, and the immense
+prairies covered with a fine verdure, strike agreeably the eye of the
+observer; but there is not a tree or a shrub to diversify the scene, and
+render it a little less naked and less monotonous. We found here Messrs.
+J. M'Gillivray and Ross, and Mr. O. de Montigny, who had taken service
+with the N.W. Company, and who charged me with a letter for his brother.</p>
+
+<p>Toward midday we re-embarked, to continue our journey. After having
+passed several dangerous rapids without accident, always through a
+country broken by shelving rocks, diversified with hills and verdant
+prairies, we arrived, on the 29th, at the portage of the <i>Chaudieres</i>
+or Kettle falls. This is a fall where the water precipitates itself
+over an immense rock of white marble, veined with red and green, that
+traverses the bed of the river from N.W. to S.E. We effected the portage
+immediately, and encamped on the edge of a charming prairie.</p>
+
+<p>We found at this place some Indians who had been fasting, they assured
+us, for several days. They appeared, in fact, reduced to the most
+pitiable state, having nothing left but skin and bones, and scarcely
+able to drag themselves along, so that not without difficulty could they
+even reach the margin of the river, to get a little water to wet their
+parched lips. It is a thing that often happens to these poor people,
+when their chase has not been productive; their principal nourishment
+consisting, in that case, of the pine moss, which they boil till it is
+reduced to a sort of glue or black paste, of a sufficient consistence to
+take the form of biscuit. I had the curiosity to taste this bread, and I
+thought I had got in my mouth a bit of soap. Yet some of our people, who
+had been reduced to eat this glue, assured me that when fresh made it
+had a very good taste, seasoned with meat.<a name="FNanchor_AC_29" id="FNanchor_AC_29" /><a href="#Footnote_AC_29" class="fnanchor">[AC]</a> We partly relieved these
+wretched natives from our scanty store.</p>
+
+<p>On the 30th, while we were yet encamped at Kettle falls, Messrs. J.
+Stuart and Clarke arrived from the post at Spokan. The last was mounted
+on the finest-proportioned gray charger, full seventeen hands high, that
+I had seen in these parts: Mr. Stuart had got a fall from his, in trying
+to urge him, and had hurt himself severely. These gentlemen not having
+brought us the provisions we expected, because the hunters who had been
+sent for that purpose among the <i>Flatheads</i>, had not been able to
+procure any, it was resolved to divide our party, and that Messrs.
+M'Donald, J. Stuart, and M'Kenzie should go forward to the post situated
+east of the mountains, in order to send us thence horses and supplies.
+These gentlemen quitted us on the 1st of May. After their departure we
+killed two horses and dried the meat; which occupied us the rest of that
+day and all the next. In the evening of the 2d, Mr. A. Stuart arrived at
+our camp. He had recovered from his wounds (received in the conflict
+with the natives, before related), and was on his way to his old
+wintering place on <i>Slave lake</i>, to fetch his family to the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>We resumed our route on the morning of the 3d of May, and went to encamp
+that evening at the upper-end of a rapid, where we began to descry
+mountains covered with forests, and where the banks of the river
+themselves were low and thinly timbered.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th, after having passed several considerable rapids, we reached
+the confluence of <i>Flathead</i> river. This stream comes from the S.E., and
+falls into the Columbia in the form of a cascade: it may be one hundred
+and fifty yards wide at its junction.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 5th, we arrived at the confluence of the
+<i>Coutonais</i> river. This stream also flows from the south, and has nearly
+the same width as the <i>Flathead</i>. Shortly after passing it, we entered
+a lake or enlargement of the river, which we crossed to encamp at its
+upper extremity. This lake may be thirty or forty miles, and about four
+wide at its broadest part: it is surrounded by lofty hills, which for
+the most part have their base at the water's edge, and rise by gradual
+and finely-wooded terraces, offering a sufficiently pretty view.</p>
+
+<p>On the 6th, after we had run through a narrow strait or channel some
+fifteen miles long, we entered another lake, of less extent than the
+former but equally picturesque. When we were nearly in the middle of it,
+an accident occurred which, if not very disastrous, was sufficiently
+singular. One of the men, who had been on the sick-list for several
+days, requested to be landed for an instant. Not being more than a mile
+from the shore, we acceded to his request, and made accordingly for a
+projecting head-land; but when we were about three hundred or four
+hundred yards from the point, the canoe struck with force against the
+trunk of a tree which was planted in the bottom of the lake, and the
+extremity of which barely reached the surface of the water.<a name="FNanchor_AD_30" id="FNanchor_AD_30" /><a href="#Footnote_AD_30" class="fnanchor">[AD]</a> It
+needed no more to break a hole in so frail a vessel; the canoe was
+pierced through the bottom and filled in a trice; and despite all our
+efforts we could not get off the tree, which had penetrated two or three
+feet within her; perhaps that was our good fortune, for the opening was
+at least a yard long. One of the men, who was an expert swimmer,
+stripped, and was about to go ashore with an axe lashed to his back, to
+make a raft for us, when the other canoe, which had been proceeding up
+the lake, and was a mile ahead, perceived our signals of distress, and
+came to our succor. They carried us to land, where it was necessary to
+encamp forthwith, as well to dry ourselves as to mend the canoe.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th, Mr. A. Stuart, whom we had left behind at Kettle falls, came
+up with us, and we pursued our route in company. Toward evening we met
+natives, camped on the bank of the river: they gave us a letter from
+which we learned that Mr. M'Donald and his party had passed there on the
+4th. The women at this camp were busy spinning the coarse wool of the
+mountain sheep: they had blankets or mantles, woven or platted of the
+same material, with a heavy fringe all round: I would gladly have
+purchased one of these, but as we were to carry all our baggage on our
+backs across the mountains, was forced to relinquish the idea. Having
+bought of these savages some pieces of dried venison, we pursued our
+journey. The country began to be ascending; the stream was very rapid;
+and we made that day little progress.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th we began to see snow on the shoals or sand-banks of the
+river: the atmosphere grew very cold. The banks on either side presented
+only high hills covered to the top with impenetrable forests. While the
+canoes were working up a considerable rapid, I climbed the hills with
+Mr. M'Gillis, and we walked on, following the course of the river, some
+five or six miles. The snow was very deep in the ravines or narrow
+gorges which are found between the bases of the hills. The most common
+trees are the Norway pine and the cedar: the last is here, as on the
+borders of the sea, of a prodigious size.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th and 10th, as we advanced but slowly, the country presented
+the same aspect as on the 8th. Toward evening of the 10th, we perceived
+a-head of us a chain of high mountains entirely covered with snow. The
+bed of the river was hardly more than sixty yards wide, and was filled
+with dry banks composed of coarse gravel and small pebble.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Course of the Columbia River.&mdash;Canoe River.&mdash;Foot-march toward the
+     Rocky Mountains.&mdash;Passage of the Mountains.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 11th, that is to say, one month, day for day, after our departure
+from the falls, we quitted the Columbia, to enter a little stream to
+which Mr. Thompson had given, in 1811, the name of <i>Canoe</i> river, from
+the fact that it was on this fork that he constructed the canoes which
+carried him to the Pacific.</p>
+
+<p>The Columbia, which in the portion above the falls (not taking into
+consideration some local sinuosities) comes from the N.N.E., takes a
+bend here so that the stream appears to flow from the S.E.<a name="FNanchor_AE_31" id="FNanchor_AE_31" /><a href="#Footnote_AE_31" class="fnanchor">[AE]</a> Some
+boatmen, and particularly Mr. Regis Bruguier, who had ascended that
+river to its source, informed me that it came out of two small lakes,
+not far from the chain of the Rocky Mountains, which, at that place,
+diverges considerably to the east. According to Arrowsmith's map, the
+course of the <i>Tacoutche Tess&eacute;</i>, from its mouth in the Pacific Ocean, to
+its source in the Rocky mountains, is about twelve hundred English
+miles, or four hundred French leagues of twenty-five to a degree; that
+is to say, from two hundred and forty to two hundred and eighty miles
+from west to east, from its mouth to the first falls: seven hundred and
+fifty miles nearly from S.S.W. to N.N.E., from the first rapids to the
+bend at the confluence of <i>Canoe</i> river; and one hundred and fifty or
+one hundred and eighty miles from that confluence to its source. We were
+not provided with the necessary instruments to determine the latitude,
+and still less the longitude, of our different stations; but it took us
+four or five days to go up from the factory at Astoria to the falls, and
+we could not have made less than sixty miles a day: and, as I have just
+remarked, we occupied an entire month in getting from the falls to Canoe
+river: deducting four or five days, on which we did not travel, there
+remain twenty-five days march; and it is not possible that we made less
+than thirty miles a day, one day with another.</p>
+
+<p>We ascended Canoe river to the point where it ceases to be navigable,
+and encamped in the same place where Mr. Thompson wintered in 1810-'11.
+We proceeded immediately to secure our canoes, and to divide the baggage
+among the men, giving each fifty pounds to carry, including his
+provisions. A sack of <i>pemican</i>, or pounded meat, which we found in a
+<i>cache</i>, where it had been left for us, was a great acquisition, as our
+supplies were nearly exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th we began our foot march to the mountains, being twenty-four
+in number, rank and file. Mr. A. Stuart remained at the portage to
+bestow in a place of safety the effects which we could not carry, such
+as boxes, kegs, camp-kettles, &amp;c. We traversed first some swamps, next a
+dense bit of forest, and then we found ourselves marching up the
+gravelly banks of the little <i>Canoe</i> river. Fatigue obliged us to camp
+early.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th we pursued our journey, and entered into the valleys between
+the mountains, where there lay not less than four or five feet of snow.
+We were obliged to ford the river ten or a dozen times in the course of
+the day, sometimes with the water up to our necks. These frequent
+fordings were rendered necessary by abrupt and steep rocks or bluffs,
+which it was impossible to get over without plunging into the wood for a
+great distance. The stream being very swift, and rushing over a bed of
+stones, one of the men fell and lost a sack containing our last piece of
+salt pork, which we were preserving as a most precious treasure. The
+circumstances in which we found ourselves made us regard this as a most
+unfortunate accident. We encamped that night at the foot of a steep
+mountain, and sent on Mr. Pillet and the guide, M'Kay, to hasten a
+supply of provisions to meet us.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 14th we began to climb the mountain which we had
+before us. We were obliged to stop every moment, to take breath, so
+stiff was the ascent. Happily it had frozen hard the night before, and
+the crust of the snow was sufficient to bear us. After two or three
+hours of incredible exertions and fatigues, we arrived at the <i>plateau</i>
+or summit, and followed the footprints of those who had preceded us.
+This mountain is placed between two others a great deal more elevated,
+compared with which it is but a hill, and of which, indeed, it is only,
+as it were, the valley. Our march soon became fatiguing, on account of
+the depth of the snow, which, softened by the rays of the sun, could no
+longer bear us as in the morning. We were obliged to follow exactly the
+traces of those who had preceded us, and to plunge our legs up to the
+knees in the holes they had made, so that it was as if we had put on and
+taken off, at every step, a very large pair of boots. At last we arrived
+at a good hard bottom, and a clear space, which our guide said was a
+little lake frozen over, and here we stopped for the night. This lake,
+or rather these lakes (for there are two) are situated in the midst of
+the valley or <i>cup</i> of the mountains. On either side were immense
+glaciers, or ice-bound rocks, on which the rays of the setting sun
+reflected the most beautiful prismatic colors. One of these icy peaks
+was like a fortress of rock; it rose perpendicularly some fifteen or
+eighteen hundred feet above the level of the lakes, and had the summit
+covered with ice. Mr. J. Henry, who first discovered the pass, gave this
+extraordinary rock the name of <i>M'Gillivray's Rock</i>, in honor of one of
+the partners of the N.W. Company. The lakes themselves are not much over
+three or four hundred yards in circuit, and not over two hundred yards
+apart. Canoe river, which, as we have already seen, flows to the west,
+and falls into the Columbia, takes its rise in one of them; while the
+other gives birth to one of the branches of the <i>Athabasca</i>, which runs
+first eastward, then northward, and which, after its junction with the
+<i>Unjighah</i>, north of the Lake of the Mountains, takes the name of
+<i>Slave</i> river, as far the lake of that name, and afterward that of
+<i>M'Kenzie</i> river, till it empties into, or is lost in, the Frozen ocean.
+Having cut a large pile of wood, and having, by tedious labor for nearly
+an hour, got through the ice to the clear water of the lake on which we
+were encamped, we supped frugally on pounded maize, arranged our
+bivouac, and passed a pretty good night, though it was bitterly cold.
+The most common wood of the locality was cedar and stunted pine. The
+heat of our fire made the snow melt, and by morning the embers had
+reached the solid ice: the depth from the snow surface was about five
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th, we continued our route, and soon began to descend the
+mountain. At the end of three hours, we reached the banks of a
+stream&mdash;the outlet of the second lake above mentioned&mdash;here and there
+frozen over, and then again tumbling down over rock and pebbly bottom in
+a thousand fantastic gambols; and very soon we had to ford it. After a
+tiresome march, by an extremely difficult path in the midst of woods, we
+encamped in the evening under some cypresses. I had hit my right knee
+against the branch of a fallen tree on the first day of our march, and
+now began to suffer acutely with it. It was impossible, however, to
+flinch, as I must keep up with the party or be left to perish.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th, our path lay through thick swamps and forest; we recrossed
+the small stream we had forded the day before, and our guide conducted
+us to the banks of the <i>Athabasca</i>, which we also forded. As this
+passage was the last to be made, we dried our clothes, and pursued our
+journey through a more agreeable country than on the preceding days. In
+the evening we camped on the margin of a verdant plain, which, the guide
+informed us, was called <i>Coro prairie</i>. We had met in the course of the
+day several buffalo tracks, and a number of the bones of that quadruped
+bleached by time. Our flesh-meat having given out entirely, our supper
+consisted in some handfuls of corn, which we parched in a pan.</p>
+
+<p>We resumed our route very early on the 17th, and after passing a forest
+of trembling poplar or aspen, we again came in sight of the river which
+we had left the day before. Arriving then at an elevated promontory or
+cape, our guide made us turn back in order to pass it at its most
+accessible point. After crossing it, not without difficulty, we soon
+came upon fresh horse-prints, a sure indication that there were some of
+those animals in our neighborhood. Emerging from the forest, each took
+the direction which he thought would lead soonest to an encampment. We
+all presently arrived at an old house which the traders of the N.W.
+Company had once constructed, but which had been abandoned for some four
+or five years. The site of this trading post is the most charming that
+can be imagined: suffice to say that it is built on the bank of the
+beautiful river <i>Athabasca</i>, and is surrounded by green, and smiling
+prairies and superb woodlands. Pity there is nobody there to enjoy these
+rural beauties and to praise, while admiring them, the Author of Nature.
+We found there Mr. Pillet, and one of Mr. J. M'Donald's party, who had
+his leg broken by the kick of a horse. After regaling ourselves with
+<i>pemican</i> and some fresh venison, we set out again, leaving two of the
+party to take care of the lame man, and went on about eight or nine
+miles farther to encamp.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th, we had rain. I took the lead, and after having walked about
+ten or twelve miles, on the slope of a mountain denuded of trees, I
+perceived some smoke issuing from a tuft of trees in the bottom of a
+valley, and near the river. I descended immediately, and reached a small
+camp, where I found two men who were coming to meet us with four horses.
+I made them fire off two guns as a signal to the rest of our people who
+were coming up in the rear, and presently we heard it repeated on the
+river, from which we were not far distant. We repaired thither, and
+found two of the men, who had been left at the last ford, and who,
+having constructed a bark canoe, were descending the river. I made one
+of them disembark, and took his place, my knee being so painful that I
+could walk no further. Meanwhile the whole party came up; they loaded
+the horses, and pursued their route. In the course of the day my
+companion (an Iroquois) and I, shot seven ducks. Coming, at last, to a
+high promontory called <i>Millet's rock</i>, we found some of our
+foot-travellers with Messrs. Stewart and Clarke, who were on horseback,
+all at a stand, doubting whether it would answer to wade round the base
+of the rock, which dipped in the water. We sounded the stream for them,
+and found it fordable. So they all passed round, thereby avoiding the
+inland path, which is excessively fatiguing by reason of the hills,
+which it is necessary perpetually to mount and descend. We encamped, to
+the number of seven, at the entrance of what at high water might be a
+lake, but was then but a flat of blackish sand, with a narrow channel in
+the centre. Here we made an excellent supper on the wild ducks, while
+those who were behind had nothing to eat.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.&mdash;Description of this
+     Post.&mdash;Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.&mdash;Mountain
+     Sheep, &amp;c.&mdash;Continuation of the Journey.&mdash;Unhappy
+     Accident.&mdash;Reflections.&mdash;News from Canada.&mdash;Hunter's
+     Lodge.&mdash;Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 19th we raised our camp and followed the shore of the little dry
+lake, along a smooth sandy beach, having abandoned our little bark
+canoe, both because it had become nearly unserviceable, and because we
+knew ourselves to be very near the Rocky Mountains House. In fact, we
+had not gone above five or six miles when we discerned a column of smoke
+on the opposite side of the stream. We immediately forded across, and
+arrived at the post, where we found Messrs. M'Donald, Stuart, and
+M'Kenzie, who had preceded us only two days.</p>
+
+<p>The post of the Rocky Mountains, in English, <i>Rocky Mountains House</i>, is
+situated on the shore of the little lake I have mentioned, in the midst
+of a wood, and is surrounded, except on the water side, by steep rocks,
+inhabited only by the mountain sheep and goat. Here is seen in the west
+the chain of the Rocky Mountains, whose summits are covered with
+perpetual snow. On the lake side, <i>Millet's Rock</i>, of which I have
+spoken above, is in full view, of an immense height, and resembles the
+front of a huge church seen in perspective. The post was under the
+charge of a Mr. Decoigne. He does not procure many furs for the company,
+which has only established the house as a provision dep&ocirc;t, with the view
+of facilitating the passage of the mountains to those of its <i>employ&eacute;s</i>
+who are repairing to, or returning from, the Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>People speak so often of the Rocky Mountains, and appear to know so
+little about them, that the reader will naturally desire me to say here
+a word on that subject. If we are to credit travellers, and the most
+recent maps, these mountains extend nearly in a straight line, from the
+35th or 36th degree of north latitude, to the mouth of the <i>Unjighah</i>,
+or <i>M'Kenzie's river</i>, in the Arctic ocean, in latitude 65&deg; or 66&deg; N.
+This distance of thirty degrees of latitude, or seven hundred and fifty
+leagues, equivalent to two thousand two hundred and fifty English miles
+or thereabouts, is, however, only the mean side of a right-angled
+triangle, the base of which occupies twenty-six degrees of longitude, in
+latitude 35&deg; or 36&deg;, that is to say, is about sixteen hundred miles
+long, while the chain of mountains forms the <i>hypotenuse</i>; so that the
+real, and as it were diagonal, length of the chain, across the
+continent, must be very near three thousand miles from S.E. to N.W. In
+such a vast extent of mountains, the perpendicular height and width of
+base must necessarily be very unequal. We were about eight days in
+crossing them; whence I conclude, from our daily rate of travel, that
+they may have, at this point, i.e., about latitude 54&deg;, a base of two
+hundred miles.</p>
+
+<p>The geographer Pinkerton is assuredly mistaken, when he gives these
+mountains an elevation of but three thousand feet above the level of the
+sea; from my own observations I would not hesitate to give them six
+thousand; we attained, in crossing them, an elevation probably of
+fifteen hundred feet above the valleys, and were not, perhaps, nearer
+than half way of their total height, while the valleys themselves must
+be considerably elevated above the level of the Pacific, considering the
+prodigious number of rapids and falls which are met in the Columbia,
+from the first falls to Canoe river. Be that as it may, if these
+mountains yield to the Andes in elevation and extent, they very much
+surpass in both respects the Apalachian chain, regarded until recently
+as the principal mountains of North America: they give rise,
+accordingly, to an infinity of streams, and to the greatest rivers of
+the continent.<a name="FNanchor_AF_32" id="FNanchor_AF_32" /><a href="#Footnote_AF_32" class="fnanchor">[AF]</a></p>
+
+<p>They offer a vast and unexplored field to natural history: no botanist,
+no mineralogist, has yet examined them. The first travellers called them
+the Glittering mountains, on account of the infinite number of immense
+rock crystals, which, they say, cover their surface, and which, when
+they are not covered with snow, or in the bare places, reflect to an
+immense distance the rays of the sun. The name of Rocky mountains was
+given them, probably, by later travellers, in consequence of the
+enormous isolated rocks which they offer here and there to the view. In
+fact, Millet's rock, and <i>M'Gillivray's</i> above all, appeared to me
+wonders of nature. Some think that they contain metals, and precious
+stones.</p>
+
+<p>With the exception of the mountain sheep and goat, the animals of the
+Rocky mountains, if these rocky passes support any, are not better known
+than their vegetable and mineral productions. The mountain sheep resorts
+generally to steep rocks, where it is impossible for men or even for
+wolves to reach them: we saw several on the rocks which surround the
+Mountain House. This animal has great curved horns, like those of the
+domestic ram: its wool is long, but coarse; that on the belly is the
+finest and whitest. The Indians who dwell near the mountains, make
+blankets of it, similar to ours, which they exchange with the Indians of
+the Columbia for fish, and other commodities. The ibex, or mountain
+goat, frequents, like the sheep, the top and the declivities of the
+rocks: it differs from the sheep in having hair instead of wool, and
+straight horns projecting backward, instead of curved ones. The color is
+also different. The natives soften the horns of these animals by
+boiling, and make platters, spoons, &amp;c., of them, in a very artistic
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Decoigne had not sufficient food for us, not having expected so many
+people to arrive at once. His hunters were then absent on <i>Smoke</i> river
+(so called by some travellers who saw in the neighborhood a volcanic
+mountain belching smoke), in quest of game. We were therefore compelled
+to kill one of the horses for food. We found no birch bark either to
+make canoes, and set the men to work in constructing some of wood. For
+want of better materials, we were obliged to use poplar. On the 22d, the
+three men whom we had left at the old-house, arrived in a little canoe
+made of two elk-skins sewed together, and stretched like a drum, on a
+frame of poles.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, four canoes being ready, we fastened them together two and
+two, and embarked, to descend the river to an old post called <i>Hunter's
+Lodge</i>, where Mr. Decoigne, who was to return with us to Canada,
+informed us that we should find some bark canoes <i>en cache</i>, placed
+there for the use of the persons who descend the river. The water was
+not deep, and the stream was rapid; we glided along, so to speak, for
+ten or a dozen leagues, and encamped, having lost sight of the
+mountains. In proportion as we advanced, the banks of the river grew
+less steep, and the country became more agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th, having only a little <i>pemican</i> left, which we wished to
+keep, we sent forward a hunter in the little elk-skin canoe, to kill
+some game. About ten o'clock, we found him waiting for us with two
+moose that he had killed. He had suspended the hearts from the branch of
+a tree as a signal. We landed some men to help him in cutting up and
+shipping the game. We continued to glide safely down. But toward two
+o'clock, P.M., after doubling a point, we got into a considerable rapid,
+where, by the maladroitness of those who managed the double pirogue in
+which I was, we met with a melancholy accident. I had proposed to go
+ashore, in order to lighten the canoes, which were loaded to the water's
+edge; but the steersman insisted that we could go down safe, while the
+bow-man was turning the head of the pirogue toward the beach; by this
+manoeuvre we were brought athwart the stream, which was carrying us fast
+toward the falls; just then our frail bark struck upon a sunken rock;
+the lower canoe broke amid-ships and filled instantly, and the upper one
+being lighted, rolled over, precipitating us all into the water. Two of
+our men, Olivier Roy Lapens&eacute;e and Andr&eacute; B&eacute;langer, were drowned; and it
+was not without extreme difficulty that we succeeded in saving Messrs.
+Pillet and Wallace, as well as a man named <i>J. Hurteau</i>. The latter was
+so far gone that we were obliged to have recourse to the usual means for
+the resuscitation of drowned persons. The men lost all their effects;
+the others recovered but a part of theirs; and all our provisions went.
+Toward evening, in ascending the river (for I had gone about two miles
+below, to recover the effects floating down), we found the body of
+Lapens&eacute;e. We interred it as decently as we could, and planted at his
+grave a cross, on which I inscribed with the point of my knife, his name
+and the manner and date of his death. B&eacute;langer's body was not found. If
+anything could console the shades of the departed for a premature and
+unfortunate end, it would be, no doubt, that the funeral rites have been
+paid to their remains, and that they themselves have given their names
+to the places where they perished: it is thus that the shade of
+Palinurus rejoiced in the regions below, at learning from the mouth of
+the Sibyl, that the promontory near which he was drowned would
+henceforth be called by his name: <i>gaudet cognomine terra</i>. The rapid
+and the point of land where the accident I have described took place,
+will bear, and bears already, probably, the name of <i>Lapens&eacute;e</i>.<a name="FNanchor_AG_33" id="FNanchor_AG_33" /><a href="#Footnote_AG_33" class="fnanchor">[AG]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 26th, a part of our people embarked in the three canoes which
+remained, and the others followed the banks of the river on foot. We saw
+in several places some veins of bituminous coal, on the banks between
+the surface of the water and that of the plain, say thirty feet below
+the latter; the veins had a dip of about 25&deg;. We tried some and found it
+to burn well. We halted in the evening near a small stream, where we
+constructed some rafts, to carry all our people.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th, I went forward in the little canoe of skins, with the two
+hunters. We soon killed an elk, which we skinned and suspended the hide,
+besmeared with blood, from the branch of a tree at the extremity of a
+point, in order that the people behind, as they came up, might perceive
+and take in the fruit of our chase. After fortifying ourselves with a
+little food, we continued to glide down, and encamped for the night near
+a thick wood where our hunters, from the tracks they observed, had hopes
+of encountering and capturing some bears. This hope was not realized.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th, a little after quitting camp, we killed a swan. While I was
+busy cooking it, the hunters having plunged into the wood, I heard a
+rifle-shot, which seemed to me to proceed from a direction opposite to
+that which they had taken. They returned very soon running, and were
+extremely surprised to learn that it was not I who had fired it.
+Nevertheless, the canoes and rafts having overtaken us, we continued to
+descend the river. Very soon we met a bark canoe, containing two men and
+a woman, who were ascending the river and bringing letters and some
+goods for the <i>Rocky Mountains House</i>. We learned from these letters
+addressed to Mr. Decoigne, several circumstances of the war, and among
+others the defeat of Captain Barclay on Lake Erie. We arrived that
+evening at <i>Hunter's Lodge</i>, where we found four new birch-bark canoes.
+We got ready two of them, and resumed our journey down, on the 31st. Mr.
+Pillet set out before us with the hunters, at a very early hour. They
+killed an elk, which they left on a point, and which we took in. The
+country through which we passed that day is the most charming possible;
+the river is wide, handsome, and bordered with low outjutting points,
+covered with birch and poplar.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of June, in the evening, we encamped at the confluence of the
+river <i>Pembina</i>. This stream comes from the south, and takes its rise in
+one of the spurs of the great chain of the Rocky mountains; ascending it
+for two days, and crossing a neck of land about seventy-five miles, one
+reaches Fort Augustus, a trading post on the <i>Saskatchawine</i> river.
+Messrs. M'Donald and M'Kenzie had taken this route, and had left for us
+half a sack of pemican in a <i>cache</i>, at the mouth of the river
+<i>Pembina</i>. After landing that evening, Mr. Stuart and I amused ourselves
+with angling, but took only five or six small fish.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2d, we passed the confluence of <i>Little Slave Lake</i> river. At
+eight o'clock in the morning, we met a band or family of Indians, of the
+<i>Knisteneaux</i> tribe. They had just killed a buffalo, which we bought of
+them for a small brass-kettle. We could not have had a more seasonable
+<i>rencontre</i>, for our provisions were all consumed.</p>
+
+<p>On the 3d, we reached <i>Little Red Elk</i> river, which we began to ascend,
+quitting the <i>Athabasca</i>, or <i>Great Red Elk</i>. This stream was very
+narrow in its channel, and obstructed with boulders: we were obliged to
+take to the shore, while some of the men dragged along the canoes. Their
+method was to lash poles across, and wading themselves, lift the canoes
+over the rocks&mdash;a laborious and infinitely tedious operation. The march
+along the banks was not less disagreeable: for we had to traverse points
+of forest where the fire had passed, and which were filled with fallen
+trees.</p>
+
+<p>Wallace and I having stopped to quench our thirst at a rill, the rest
+got in advance of us; and we lost our way in a labyrinth of buffalo
+tracks which we mistook for the trail, so that we wandered about for
+three hours before we came up with the party, who began to fear for our
+safety, and were firing signal-guns to direct us. As the river now grew
+deeper, we all embarked in the canoes, and about evening overtook our
+hunters, who had killed a moose and her two calves.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our journey on the 4th, sometimes seated in our canoes,
+sometimes marching along the river on foot, and encamped in the evening,
+excessively fatigued.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Red Deer Lake.&mdash;Antoine D&eacute;jarlais.&mdash;Beaver River.&mdash;N.
+     Nadeau.&mdash;Moose River.&mdash;Bridge Lake.&mdash;Saskatchawine River.&mdash;Fort
+     Vermilion.&mdash;Mr. Hallet.&mdash;Trading-Houses.&mdash;Beautiful
+     Country.&mdash;Reflections.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The 5th of June brought us to the beautiful sheet of water called <i>Red
+Deer lake</i>, irregular in shape, dotted with islands, and about forty
+miles in length by thirty in its greatest width. We met, about the
+middle of it, a small canoe conducted by two young women. They were
+searching for gulls' and ducks' eggs on the islands, this being the
+season of laying for those aquatics. They told us that their father was
+not far distant from the place where we met them. In fact, we presently
+saw him appear in a canoe with his two boys, rounding a little isle. We
+joined him, and learned that his name was Antoine D&eacute;jarlais; that he
+had been a guide in the service of the Northwest Company, but had left
+them since 1805. On being made acquainted with our need of provisions,
+he offered us a great quantity of eggs, and made one of our men embark
+with his two daughters in their little canoe, to seek some more
+substantial supplies at his cabin, on the other side of the lake. He
+himself accompanied us as far as a portage of about twenty-five yards
+formed at the outlet of the lake by a Beaver dam. Having performed the
+portage, and passed a small pond or marsh, we encamped to await the
+return of our man. He arrived the next morning, with D&eacute;jarlais, bringing
+us about fifty pounds of dried venison and from ten to twelve pounds of
+tallow. We invited our host to breakfast with us: it was the least we
+could do after the good offices he had rendered us. This man was married
+to an Indian woman, and lived with his family, on the produce of his
+chase; he appeared quite contented with his lot. Nobody at least
+disputed with him the sovereignty of Red Deer lake, of which he had; as
+it were, taken possession. He begged me to read for him two letters
+which he had had in his possession for two years, and of which he did
+not yet know the contents. They were from one of his sisters, and dated
+at <i>Verch&egrave;res</i>, in Canada. I even thought that I recognised the
+handwriting of Mr. L.G. Labadie, teacher of that parish. At last, having
+testified to this good man, in suitable terms, our gratitude for the
+services he had rendered us, we quitted him and prosecuted our journey.</p>
+
+<p>After making two portages, we arrived on the banks of Beaver river,
+which was here but a rivulet. It is by this route that the canoes
+ordinarily pass to reach Little Slave lake and the Athabasca country,
+from the head of Lake Superior, via., <i>Cumberland House</i>, on <i>English
+river</i>. We were obliged by the shallowness of the stream, to drag along
+our canoes, walking on a bottom or beach of sand, where we began to feel
+the importunity of the mosquitoes. One of the hunters scoured the woods
+for game but without success. By-and-by we passed a small canoe turned
+bottom up and covered with a blanket. Soon after we came to a cabin or
+lodge, where we found an old Canadian hunter named <i>Nadeau</i>. He was
+reduced to the last stage of weakness, having had nothing to eat for two
+days. Nevertheless, a young man who was married to one of his daughters,
+came in shortly after, with the good news that he had just killed a
+buffalo; a circumstance which determined us to encamp there for the
+night. We sent some of our men to get in the meat. Nadeau gave us half
+of it, and told us that we should find, thirty miles lower down, at the
+foot of a pine tree, a <i>cache</i>, where he had deposited ten swan-skins,
+and some of martin, with a net, which he prayed us to take to the next
+trading-post. We quitted this good fellow the next morning, and pursued
+our way. Arriving at the place indicated, we found the <i>cache</i>, and took
+the net, leaving the other articles. A short distance further, we came
+to Moose river, which we had to ascend, in order to reach the lake of
+that name. The water in this river was so low that we were obliged
+entirely to unload the canoes, and to lash poles across them, as we had
+done before, that the men might carry them on their shoulders over the
+places where they could not be floated. Having distributed the baggage
+to the remainder of the hands, we pursued our way through the woods,
+under the guidance of Mr. Decoigne.</p>
+
+<p>This gentleman, who had not passed here for nineteen years, soon lost
+his way, and we got separated into small parties, in the course of the
+afternoon, some going one way, and some another, in search of Moose
+lake. But as we had outstripped the men who carried the baggage and the
+small stock of provision that old Nadeau had given us, Mr. Wallace and I
+thought it prudent to retrace our steps and keep with the rear-guard. We
+soon met Mr. Pillet and one of the hunters. The latter, ferreting the
+woods on both sides of a trail that he had discovered, soon gave a
+whoop, to signify that we should stop. Presently emerging from the
+underwood, he showed us a horsewhip which he had found, and from which
+and from other unmistakeable signs, he was confident the trail would
+lead either to the lake or a navigable part of the river. The men with
+the baggage then coming up, we entered the thicket single file, and were
+conducted by this path, in a very short time, to the river, on the banks
+of which were visible the traces of an old camping ground. The night was
+coming on; and soon after, the canoes arrived, to our great
+satisfaction; for we had begun to fear that they had already passed. The
+splashing of their paddles was a welcome sound, and we who had been wise
+enough to keep behind, all encamped together.</p>
+
+<p>Very early on the 8th, I set out accompanied by one of the hunters, in
+quest of Messrs. D. Stuart, Clarke and Decoigne, who had gone on ahead,
+the night previous. I soon found MM. Clarke and M'Gillis encamped on the
+shore of the lake. The canoes presently arrived and we embarked; MM.
+Stuart and Decoigne rejoined us shortly after, and informed us that they
+had bivouacked on the shore of Lac <i>Puant</i>, or Stinking lake, a pond
+situated about twelve miles E.N.E. from the lake we were now entering.
+Finding ourselves thus reunited, we traversed the latter, which is about
+eighteen miles in circuit, and has very pretty shores. We encamped, very
+early, on an island, in order to use old Nadeau's fishing net. I visited
+it that evening and brought back three carp and two water-hens. We left
+it set all night, and the next morning found in it twenty white-fish.
+Leaving camp at an early hour, we gained the entrance of a small stream
+that descends between some hills of moderate elevation, and there
+stopped to breakfast. I found the white-fish more delicious in flavor,
+even than the salmon. We had again to foot it, following the bank of
+this little stream. It was a painful task, as we were obliged to open a
+path through thick underbrush, in the midst of a rain that lasted all
+day and kept us drenched. Two men being left in each canoe, conveyed
+them up the river about thirty miles, as far as Long lake&mdash;a narrow
+pond, on the margin of which we spent the night.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th, we got through this lakelet, and entered another small
+stream, which it was necessary to navigate in the same manner as the
+preceding, and which conducted us to Bridge lake. The latter received
+its name from a sort of bridge or causeway, formed at its southern
+extremity, and which is nothing more than a huge beaver dam. We found
+here a lodge, where were a young man and two women, who had charge of
+some horses appertaining to one of the Hudson's Bay trading houses. We
+borrowed of them half a dozen pack horses, and crossed the bridge with
+them. After surmounting a considerable hill, we reached an open, level,
+and dry prairie, which conducted us in about two hours to an ancient
+trading-post on the banks of the <i>Saskatchawine</i>. Knowing that we were
+near a factory, we made our toilets as well as we could, before
+arriving. Toward sundown, we reached Fort Vermilion, which is situated
+on the bank of a river, at the foot of a superb hill.</p>
+
+<p>We found at this post some ninety persons, men, women, and children;
+these people depend for subsistence on the chase, and fishing with
+hooks and lines, which is very precarious. Mr. Hallet, the clerk in
+charge was absent, and we were dismayed to hear that there were no
+provisions on the place: a very disagreeable piece of news for people
+famished as we were. We had been led to suppose that if we could only
+reach the plains of the Saskatchawine, we should be in the land of
+plenty. Mr. Hallet, however, was not long in arriving: he had two
+quarters of buffalo meat brought out, which had been laid in ice, and
+prepared us supper. Mr. Hallet was a polite sociable man, loving his
+ease passably well, and desirous of living in these wild countries, as
+people do in civilized lands. Having testified to him our surprise at
+seeing in one of the buildings a large <i>cariole</i>, like those of Canada,
+he informed us that having horses, he had had this carriage made in
+order to enjoy a sleigh-ride; but that the workmen having forgot to take
+the measure of the doors of the building before constructing it, it was
+found when finished, much too large for them, and could never be got out
+of the room where it was; and it was like to remain there a long time,
+as he was not disposed to demolish the house for the pleasure of using
+the cariole.</p>
+
+<p>By the side of the factory of the Northwest Company, is another
+belonging to the Company of Hudson's Bay. In general these
+trading-houses are constructed thus, one close to the other, and
+surrounded with a common palisade, with a door of communication in the
+interior for mutual succor, in case of attack on the part of the
+Indians. The latter, in this region, particularly the Black-feet,
+<i>Gros-ventres</i>, and those of the Yellow river, are very ferocious: they
+live by the chase, but bring few furs to the traders; and the latter
+maintain these posts principally to procure themselves provisions.</p>
+
+<p>On the. 11th, after breakfasting at Fort Vermilion, we resumed our
+journey, with six or seven pounds of tallow for our whole stock of food.
+This slender supply brought us through to the evening of the third day,
+when we had for supper two ounces of tallow each.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th, in the morning, we killed a wild goose, and toward midday,
+collected some flag-root and <i>choux-gras</i>, a wild herb, which we boiled
+with the small game: we did not forget to throw into the pot the little
+tallow we had left, and made a delicious repast. Toward the decline of
+day, we had the good luck to kill a buffalo.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th, MM. Clarke and Decoigne having landed during our course, to
+hunt, returned presently with the agreeable intelligence that they had
+killed three buffaloes. We immediately encamped, and sent the greater
+part of the men to cut up the meat and jerk it. This operation lasted
+till the next evening, and we set forward again in the canoes on the
+17th, with about six hundred pounds of meat half cured. The same evening
+we perceived from our camp several herds of buffaloes, but did not give
+chase, thinking we had enough meat to take us to the next post.</p>
+
+<p>The river <i>Saskatchawine</i> flows over a bed composed of sand and marl,
+which contributes not a little to diminish the purity and transparency
+of its waters, which, like those of the Missouri, are turbid and
+whitish. Except for that it is one of the prettiest rivers in the world.
+The banks are perfectly charming, and offer in many places a scene the
+fairest, the most smiling, and the best diversified that can be seen or
+imagined: hills in varied forms, crowned with superb groves; valleys
+agreeably embrowned, at evening and morning, by the prolonged shadow of
+the hills, and of the woods which adorn them; herds of light-limbed
+antelopes, and heavy colossal buffalo&mdash;the former bounding along the
+slopes of the hills, the latter trampling under their heavy feet the
+verdure of the plains; all these champaign beauties reflected and
+doubled as it were, by the waters of the river; the melodious and varied
+song of a thousand birds, perched on the tree-tops; the refreshing
+breath of the zephyrs; the serenity of the sky; the purity and salubrity
+of the air; all, in a word, pours contentment and joy into the soul of
+the enchanted spectator. It is above all in the morning, when the sun is
+rising, and in the evening when he is setting, that the spectacle is
+really ravishing. I could not detach my regards from that superb
+picture, till the nascent obscurity had obliterated its perfection.
+Then, to the sweet pleasure that I had tasted, succeeded a <i>triste</i>, not
+to say, a sombre, melancholy. How comes it to pass, I said to myself,
+that so beautiful a country is not inhabited by human creatures? The
+songs, the hymns, the prayers, of the laborer and the artisan, shall
+they never be heard in these fine plains? Wherefore, while in Europe,
+and above all in England, so many thousands of men do not possess as
+their own an inch of ground, and cultivate the soil of their
+country for proprietors who scarcely leave them whereon to support
+existence;&mdash;wherefore&mdash;do so many millions of acres of apparently fat
+and fertile land, remain uncultivated and absolutely useless? Or, at
+least, why do they support only herds of wild animals? Will men always
+love better to vegetate all their lives on an ungrateful soil, than to
+seek afar fertile regions, in order to pass in peace and plenty, at
+least the last portion of their days? But I deceive myself; it is not
+so easy as one thinks, for the poor man to better his condition: he has
+not the means of transporting himself to distant countries, or he has
+not those of acquiring a property there; for these untilled lands,
+deserted, abandoned, do not appertain to whoever wishes to establish
+himself upon them and reduce them to culture; they have owners, and from
+these must be purchased the right of rendering them productive! Besides
+one ought not to give way to illusions: these countries, at times so
+delightful, do not enjoy a perpetual spring; they have their winter, and
+a rigorous one; a piercing cold is then spread through the atmosphere;
+deep snows cover the surface; the frozen rivers flow only for the fish;
+the trees are stripped of their leaves and hung with icicles; the
+verdure of the plains has disappeared; the hills and valleys offer but a
+uniform whiteness; Nature has lost all her beauty; and man has enough to
+do, to shelter himself from the injuries of the inclement season.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Fort Mont&eacute;e&mdash;Cumberland House.&mdash;Lake Bourbon.&mdash;Great Winipeg
+     Rapids.&mdash;Lake Winipeg.&mdash;Trading-House.&mdash;Lake of the Woods.&mdash;Rainy
+     Lake House, &amp;c.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 18th of June (a day which its next anniversary was to render for
+ever celebrated in the annals of the world), we re-embarked at an early
+hour: and the wind rising, spread sail, a thing we had not done before,
+since we quitted the river Columbia. In the afternoon the clouds
+gathered thick and black, and we had a gust, accompanied with hail, but
+of short duration; the weather cleared up again, and about sundown we
+arrived at <i>Le Fort de la Mont&ecirc;e</i>, so called, on account of its being a
+dep&ocirc;t, where the traders going south, leave their canoes and take
+pack-horses to reach their several posts. We found here, as at Fort
+Vermilion, two trading-houses joined together, to make common cause
+against the Indians; one belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, the
+other to the company of the Northwest: the Hudson's Bay house being then
+under the charge of a Mr. Prudent, and the N.W. Company's under a Mr.
+John M'Lean. Mr. de Roche Blave, one of the partners of the last company
+having the superintendence of this district, where he had wintered, had
+gone to Lake Superior to attend the annual meeting of the partners.
+There were cultivated fields around the house; the barley and peas
+appeared to promise an abundant harvest. Mr. M'Lean received us as well
+as circumstances permitted; but that gentleman having no food to give
+us, and our buffalo meat beginning to spoil, we set off the next
+morning, to reach Cumberland house as quick as possible. In the course
+of the day, we passed two old forts, one of which had been built by the
+French before the conquest of Canada. According to our guide, it was the
+most distant western post that the French traders ever had in the
+northwestern wilderness. Toward evening we shot a moose. The aspect of
+the country changes considerably since leaving <i>Mont&eacute;e</i>; the banks of
+the river rise more boldly, and the country is covered with forests.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th, we saw some elms&mdash;a tree that I had not seen hitherto,
+since my departure from Canada. We reached Fort Cumberland a little
+before the setting of the sun. This post, called in English <i>Cumberland
+House</i>, is situated at the outlet of the <i>Saskatchawine</i>, where it
+empties into <i>English lake</i>, between the 53d and 54th degrees of north
+latitude. It is a depot for those traders who are going to Slave lake or
+the Athabasca, or are returning thence, as well as for those destined
+for the Rocky mountains. It was under the orders of Mr. J.D. Campbell,
+who having gone down to Fort William, however, had left it in charge of
+a Mr. Harrison. There are two factories, as at Vermilion and la Mont&eacute;e.
+At this place the traders who resort every year to Fort William, leave
+their half-breed or Indian wives and families, as they can live here at
+little expense, the lake abounding in fish. Messrs. Clarke and Stuart,
+who were behind, arrived on the 22d, and in the evening we had a dance.
+They gave us four sacs of pemican, and we set off again, on the 23d, at
+eight A.M. We crossed the lake, and entered a small river, and having
+made some eighty or ninety miles under sail, encamped on a low shore,
+where the mosquitoes tormented us horribly all night.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, we passed <i>Muddy</i> lake, and entered Lake <i>Bourbon</i>, where
+we fell in with a canoe from <i>York</i> factory, under the command of a Mr.
+Kennedy, clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company. We collected some dozens of
+gulls' eggs, on the rocky islands of the lake: and stopping on one of
+the last at night, having a little flour left, Mr. Decoigne and I amused
+ourselves in making fritters for the next day's breakfast: an
+occupation, which despite the small amount of materials, employed us
+till we were surprised by the daybreak; the night being but brief at
+this season in that high latitude.</p>
+
+<p>At sunrise on the 25th, we were again afloat, passed Lake <i>Travers</i>, or
+<i>Cross</i> lake, which empties into Lake Winipeg by a succession of
+rapids; shot down these cascades without accident, and arrived, toward
+noon, at the great rapid <i>Ou&eacute;nipic</i> or Winipeg, which is about four
+miles long. We disembarked here, and the men worked down the canoes. At
+the foot of this rapid, which is the inlet of Winipeg, we found an old
+Canadian fisherman, who called himself <i>King of the lake</i>. He might
+fairly style himself king of the fish, which are abundant and which he
+alone enjoyed. Having made a boil, and regaled ourselves with excellent
+sturgeon, we left this old man, and entered the great lake Winipeg,
+which appeared to me like a sea of fresh water. This lake is now too
+well known to need a particular description: I will content myself with
+saying that it visibly yields in extent only to Lake Superior and Great
+Slave lake: it has for tributaries several large rivers, and among
+others the Saskatchawine, the Winipeg, in the east; and Red river in the
+south; and empties into Hudson's bay by the <i>Nelson</i>, N.N.E., and the
+<i>Severn</i>, E.N.E. The shores which it bathes are generally very low; it
+appears to have little depth, and is dotted with a vast number of
+islands, lying pretty close to land. We reached one called <i>Egg island</i>,
+whence it was necessary to cross to the south to reach the main; but the
+wind was so violent that it was only at decline of day that we could
+perform the passage. We profited by the calm, to coast along all day and
+a part of the night of the 26th; but to pay for it, remained in camp on
+the 27th, till evening: the wind not suffering us to proceed. The wind
+having appeared to abate somewhat after sunset, we embarked, but were
+soon forced to land again. On the 28th, we passed the openings of
+several deep bays, and the isles of <i>St. Martin</i>, and camped at the
+bottom of a little bay, where the mosquitoes did not suffer us to close
+our eyes all night. We were rejoiced when dawn appeared, and were eager
+to embark, to free ourselves from these inconvenient guests. A calm
+permitted us that day to make good progress with our oars, and we camped
+at <i>Buffalo Strait</i>. We saw that day two Indian wigwams.</p>
+
+<p>The 30th brought us to Winipeg river, which we began to ascend, and
+about noon reached Port <i>Bas de la Rivi&egrave;re</i>. This trading post had more
+the air of a large and well-cultivated farm, than of a fur traders'
+factory: a neat and elegant mansion, built on a slight eminence, and
+surrounded with barns, stables, storehouses, &amp;c., and by fields of
+barley, peas, oats, and potatoes, reminded us of the civilized countries
+which we had left so long ago. Messrs. Cr&eacute;bassa and Kennedy, who had
+this post in charge, received us with all possible hospitality, and
+supplied us with all the political news which had been learned through
+the arrival of canoes from Canada.</p>
+
+<p>They also informed us that Messrs M'Donald and de Rocheblave had passed,
+a few days before our arrival, having been obliged to go up Red river to
+stop the effusion of blood, which would probably have taken place but
+for their intervention, in the colony founded on that river by the earl
+of Selkirk. Mr. Miles M'Donnell, the governor of that colony, or rather
+of the <i>Assiniboyne</i> district, had issued a proclamation forbidding all
+persons whomsoever, to send provisions of any kind out of the district.
+The Hudson's Bay traders had conformed to this proclamation, but those
+of the Northwest Company paid no attention to it, thinking it illegal,
+and had sent their servants, as usual to get provisions up the river.
+Mr. M'Donnell having heard that several hundred sacks of pemican<a name="FNanchor_AH_34" id="FNanchor_AH_34" /><a href="#Footnote_AH_34" class="fnanchor">[AH]</a>
+were laid up in a storehouse under the care of a Mr. Pritchard, sent to
+require their surrender: Pritchard refused to deliver them, whereupon
+Mr. M'Donnell had them carried off by force. The traders who winter on
+Little Slave lake, English river, the Athabasca country, &amp;c., learning
+this, and being aware that they would not find their usual supply at
+<i>Bas de la Rivi&egrave;re</i>, resolved to go and recover the seized provisions by
+force, if they were not peaceably given up. Things were in this position
+when Messrs, de Rocheblave and M'Donald arrived. They found the Canadian
+<i>voyageurs</i> in arms, and ready to give battle to the colonists, who
+persisted in their refusal to surrender the bags of pemican. The two
+peacemakers visited the governor, and having explained to him the
+situation in which the traders of the Northwest Company would find
+themselves, by the want of necessary provisions to enable them to
+transport their peltries to Fort William, and the exasperation of their
+men, who saw no other alternative for them, but to get possession of
+those provisions or to perish of hunger, requested him to surrender the
+same without delay. Mr. M'Donnell, on his part, pointed out the misery
+to which the colonists would be reduced by a failure in the supply of
+food. In consequence of these mutual representations, it was agreed that
+one half of the pemican should be restored, and the other half remain
+for the use of the colonists. Thus was arranged, without bloodshed, the
+first difficulty which occurred between the rival companies of the
+Northwest, and of Hudson's Bay.</p>
+
+<p>Having spent the 1st of July in repairing our canoes, we re-embarked on
+the 2d, and continued to ascend Winipeg river, called also <i>White
+river</i>, on account of the great number of its cascades, which being very
+near each other, offer to the sight an almost continuous foam. We made
+that day twenty-seven portages, all very short. On the 3d, and 4th, we
+made nine more, and arrived on the 5th, at the <i>Lake of the Woods</i>. This
+lake takes its name from the great number of woody islands with which it
+is dotted. Our guide pointed out to me one of these isles, telling me
+that a Jesuit father had said mass there, and that it was the most
+remote spot to which those missionaries had ever penetrated. We encamped
+on one of the islands. The next day the wind did not allow us to make
+much progress. On the 7th, we gained the entrance of <i>Rainy Lake river</i>.
+I do not remember ever to have seen elsewhere so many mosquitoes as on
+the banks of this river. Having landed near a little rapid to lighten
+the canoes, we had the misfortune, in getting through the brush, to
+dislodge these insects from under the leaves where they had taken refuge
+from the rain of the night before; they attached themselves to us,
+followed us into the canoes, and tormented us all the remainder of the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th, at sunset, we reached <i>Rainy Lake House</i>. This fort is
+situated about a mile from a considerable rapid. We saw here cultivated
+fields and domestic animals, such as horses, oxen, cows, &amp;c. The port is
+a dep&ocirc;t for the wintering parties of the Athabasca, and others still
+more remote, who bring to it their peltries and return from it with
+their outfits of merchandise. Mr. John Dease, to whose charge the place
+had been confided, received us in the most friendly manner possible; and
+after having made an excellent supper, we danced a part of the evening.</p>
+
+<p>We took leave of Mr. Dease on the 10th, well provided for the journey,
+and passing round Rainy Lake falls, and then traversing the lake
+itself, which I estimated to be forty miles long, we encamped at the
+entrance of a small river. On the next day we pursued our way, now
+thridding streams impeded with wild rice, which rendered our progress
+difficult, now traversing little lakes, now passing straits where we
+scarcely found water to float our canoes. On the 13th, we encamped near
+<i>Dog Portage (Portage des chiens</i>), where, from not having followed the
+advice of Mr. Dease, who had counselled us to take along a bag of
+pemican, we found ourselves absolutely without food.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Arrival at Fort William.&mdash;Description of the Fort.&mdash;News from the
+     River Columbia.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>Starving men are early-risers. We set out on the 14th before day, and
+effected the portage, which is long and difficult. At the foot of the
+rapid we found a sort of <i>restaurant</i> or <i>cabaret</i>, kept by a man named
+<i>Boucher</i>. We treated the men to a little <i>eau de vie</i>, and breakfasted
+on some detestable sausages, poisoned with salt.</p>
+
+<p>After this wretched repast, we set out again, and passed toward noon,
+the <i>Mountain Portage</i>. Here the river <i>Kaministiquia</i> flings itself
+over a rock of immense height, and forms a fall scarcely less curious to
+see than that of Niagara. Below, the succession of falls and rapids is
+constant, so that we made no fewer than thirty-six portages in the
+course of the day. Nevertheless we pursued our laborious way with good
+cheer, and without a murmur from our Canadian boatmen, who kept their
+spirits up by singing their <i>voyageur</i> songs. At last, at about nine
+o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Fort William.</p>
+
+<p>Fort William is situated on Lake Superior, at the mouth of the
+<i>Kaministiquia</i> river, about forty-five miles north of old <i>Grand
+Portage</i>. It was built in 1805, when the two rival Canadian companies
+were united, and was named in honor of Mr. (now the Honorable) William
+M'Gillivray, principal agent of the Northwest Company. The proprietors,
+perceiving that the old fort of <i>Grand Portage</i> was on the territory
+claimed by the American government, resolved to demolish it and build
+another on the British territory. No site appeared more advantageous
+than the present for the purposes intended; the river is deep, of easy
+access, and offers a safe harbor for shipping. It is true they had to
+contend with all the difficulties consequent on a low and swampy soil;
+but by incredible labor and perseverance they succeeded in draining the
+marshes and reducing the loose and yielding soil to solidity.</p>
+
+<p>Fort William has really the appearance of a fort, with its palisade
+fifteen feet high, and that of a pretty village, from the number of
+edifices it encloses. In the middle of a spacious square rises a large
+building elegantly constructed, though of wood, with a long piazza or
+portico, raised about five feet from the ground, and surmounted by a
+balcony, extending along the whole front. In the centre is a saloon or
+hall, sixty feet in length by thirty in width, decorated with several
+pieces of painting, and some portraits of the leading partners. It is in
+this hall that the agents, partners, clerks, interpreters, and guides,
+take their meals together, at different tables. At each extremity of the
+apartment are two rooms; two of these are destined for the two principal
+agents; the other two to the steward and his department. The kitchen and
+servants' rooms are in the basement. On either side of this edifice, is
+another of the same extent, but of less elevation; they are each
+divided by a corridor running through its length, and contain each, a
+dozen pretty bed-rooms. One is destined for the wintering partners, the
+other for the clerks. On the east of the square is another building
+similar to the last two, and intended for the same use, and a warehouse
+where the furs are inspected and repacked for shipment. In the rear of
+these, are the lodging-house of the guides, another fur-warehouse, and
+finally, a powder magazine. The last is of stone, and has a roof covered
+with tin. At the angle is a sort of bastion, or look-out place,
+commanding a view of the lake. On the west side is seen a range of
+buildings, some of which serve for stores, and others for workshops;
+there is one for the equipment of the men, another for the fitting out
+of the canoes, one for the retail of goods, another where they sell
+liquors, bread, pork, butter, &amp;c., and where a treat is given to the
+travellers who arrive. This consists in a white loaf, half a pound of
+butter, and a gill of rum. The <i>voyageurs</i> give this tavern the name of
+<i>Cantino salope</i>. Behind all this is another range, where we find the
+counting-house, a fine square building, and well-lighted; another
+storehouse of stone, tin-roofed; and a <i>jail</i>, not less necessary than
+the rest. The <i>voyageurs</i> give it the name of <i>pot au beurre</i>&mdash;the
+butter-tub. Beyond these we discover the shops of the carpenter, the
+cooper, the tinsmith, the blacksmith, &amp;c.; and spacious yards and sheds
+for the shelter, reparation, and construction of canoes. Near the gate
+of the fort, which is on the south, are the quarters of the physician,
+and those of the chief clerk. Over the gate is a guard-house.</p>
+
+<p>As the river is deep at its entrance, the company has had a wharf
+constructed, extending the whole length of the fort, for the discharge
+of the vessels which it keeps on Lake Superior, whether to transport its
+furs from Fort William to the <i>Saut Ste. Marie</i>, or merchandise and
+provisions from <i>Saut Ste. Marie</i> to Fort William. The land behind the
+fort and on both sides of it, is cleared and under tillage. We saw
+barley, peas, and oats, which had a very fine appearance. At the end of
+the clearing is the burying-ground. There are also, on the opposite bank
+of the river, a certain number of log-houses, all inhabited by old
+Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>, worn out in the service of the company, without
+having enriched themselves. Married to women of the country, and
+incumbered with large families of half-breed children, these men prefer
+to cultivate a little Indian corn and potatoes, and to fish, for a
+subsistence, rather than return to their native districts, to give their
+relatives and former acquaintance certain proofs of their misconduct or
+their imprudence.</p>
+
+<p>Fort William is the grand dep&ocirc;t of the Northwest Company for their
+interior posts, and the general <i>rendezvous</i> of the partners. The agents
+from Montreal and the wintering partners assemble here every summer, to
+receive the returns of the respective outfits, prepare for the
+operations of the ensuing season, and discuss the general interests of
+their association. The greater part of them were assembled at the time
+of our arrival. The wintering hands who are to return with their
+employers, pass also a great part of the summer here; they form a great
+encampment on the west side of the fort, outside the palisades. Those
+who engage at Montreal to go no further than Fort William or <i>Rainy
+lake</i>, and who do not <i>winter</i>, occupy yet another space, on the east
+side. The winterers, or <i>hivernants</i>, give to these last the name of
+<i>mangeurs de lard</i>, or pork-eaters. They are also called
+<i>comers-and-goers</i>. One perceives an astonishing difference between
+these two camps, which are composed sometimes of three or four hundred
+men each; that of the pork-eaters is always dirty and disorderly, while
+that of the winterers is clean and neat.</p>
+
+<p>To clear its land and improve its property, the company inserts a clause
+in the engagement of all who enter its service as canoe-men, that they
+shall work for a certain number of days during their stay at Fort
+William. It is thus that it has cleared and drained the environs of the
+fort, and has erected so many fine buildings. But when a hand has once
+worked the stipulated number of days, he is for ever after exempt, even
+if he remain in the service twenty or thirty years, and should come down
+to the fort every summer.</p>
+
+<p>They received us very courteously at Fort William, and I perceived by
+the reception given to myself in particular, that thanks to the Chinook
+dialect of which I was sufficiently master, they would not have asked
+better than to give me employment, on advantageous terms. But I felt a
+great deal more eagerness to arrive in Montreal, than desire to return
+to the River Columbia.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after we reached Fort William, Mr. Keith made his appearance
+there from Fort George, or Astoria, with the news of the arrival of the
+&quot;Isaac Todd&quot; in the Columbia river. This vessel, which was a dull
+sailer, had been kept back a long time by contrary winds in doubling
+Cape Horn, and had never been able to rejoin the vessels-of-war, her
+consorts, from which she was then separated. When she reached the
+<i>rendezvous</i> at the island of Juan Fernandez, finding that the three
+ships-of-war had sailed, the captain and passengers, as they were short
+of provisions, determined to range the coast. Entering the harbor of
+<i>Monterey</i>,<a name="FNanchor_AI_35" id="FNanchor_AI_35" /><a href="#Footnote_AI_35" class="fnanchor">[AI]</a> on the coast of California, in order to obtain
+provisions, they learned that there was an English vessel-of-war in
+distress, in the bay of <i>San Francisco</i>.<a name="FNanchor_AJ_36" id="FNanchor_AJ_36" /><a href="#Footnote_AJ_36" class="fnanchor">[AJ]</a> They repaired thither
+accordingly, and found, to their great surprise, that it was the sloop
+<i>Raccoon</i>. This vessel, in getting out of the River Columbia, had
+touched on the bar, with such violence, that a part of her false keel
+was carried away; and she had with difficulty made San Francisco, with
+seven feet of water in the hold, although her crew had been constantly
+at the pumps. Captain Black, finding it impossible to repair his ship,
+had decided to abandon her, and to cross the continent to the Gulf of
+Mexico, thence to reach some of the British West India islands. However,
+on the arrival of the Isaac Todd, means were found to careen the vessel
+and repair the damage. The Isaac Todd then pursued her voyage and
+entered the Columbia on the 17th of April, thirteen months after her
+departure from England.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Departure from Fort William.&mdash;Navigation on Lake
+     Superior.&mdash;Michipicoton Bay.&mdash;Meeting a Canoe.&mdash;Batchawainon
+     Bay.&mdash;Arrival at Saut Ste Marie.&mdash;Occurrences
+     there.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;Lake Huron.&mdash;French River.&mdash;Lake
+     Nipissing.&mdash;Ottawa River.&mdash;Kettle Falls.&mdash;Rideau
+     River.&mdash;Long-Saut.&mdash;Arrival in Montreal&mdash;Conclusion.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>On the 20th of July, in the evening, Mr. D. Stuart notified me that he
+should start the next morning for Montreal, in a light canoe. I
+immediately wrote to my relatives: but the next morning Mr. Stuart told
+me that I was to be myself the bearer of my letters, by embarking with
+him. I got ready my effects, and toward evening we quitted Fort William,
+with fourteen stout <i>voyageurs</i> to man our large canoe, and were soon
+floating on the bosom of the largest body of fresh water on the surface
+of the globe. We counted six passengers, namely, Messrs. D. Stuart, D.
+M'Kenzie, J. M'Donald, J. Clarke, myself, and a little girl of eight or
+nine years, who came from Kildonan, on Red river. We passed the first
+night on one of the islands in <i>Thunder bay</i>, so named on account of the
+frequent storms, accompanied with lightning and thunder, which burst
+over it at certain seasons of the year. On the 22d and 23d, we continued
+to range the southern coast of Lake Superior. The navigation of this
+superb lake would be extremely agreeable but for the thick fogs which
+reign during a part of the day, and do not permit a rapid progress. On
+the 24th, we dined at a small trading establishment called <i>Le Pic</i>,
+where we had excellent fish.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th, we crossed <i>Michipicoton bay</i>, which, at its entrance, may
+be nine miles wide, and twenty fathoms deep. As we were nearing the
+eastern point, we met a small canoe, having on board Captain M'Cargo,
+and the crew of one of the schooners owned by the company. Mr. M'Cargo
+informed us that he had just escaped from <i>Saut Ste. Marie</i>, whither the
+Americans had sent a detachment of one hundred and fifty men; and that
+having been obliged to abandon his schooner, he had set fire to her. In
+consequence of this news it was resolved that the canoe on which we were
+proceeding, should return to Fort William. I embarked, with Mr. Stuart
+and two men, in Captain M'Cargo's canoe, while he and his crew took our
+places. In the haste and confusion of this exchange, which was made on
+the lake, they gave us a ham, a little tea and sugar, and a bag
+containing about twenty-five pounds of flour, but forgot entirely a
+kettle, knives, forks, and so on, all articles which Mr. M'Cargo had not
+time to take when he left <i>Saut Ste. Marie</i>. We subsisted miserably in
+consequence for two days and a half that we continued to coast the lake
+before reaching any post. We moistened in the bag a little flour, and
+having kneaded it, made cakes, which we baked on flat stones by our camp
+fire.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th, we reached Batchawainon, where we found some women, who
+prepared us food and received us well. It is a poor little post,
+situated at the bottom of a sandy cove, which offers nothing agreeable
+to the eye. Mr. Frederic Goedike, who resided here, was gone to see what
+had taken place at Saut Ste. Marie. He returned the next day, and told
+us that the Americans had come, with a force of one hundred and fifty
+men, under the command of Major Holmes; and that after having pillaged
+that they all considered worth taking, of the property of the N.W.
+Company and that of a Mr. Johnston, they had set fire to the houses,
+warehouses, &amp;c., belonging to the company and to that gentleman, and
+retired, without molesting any other person.<a name="FNanchor_AK_37" id="FNanchor_AK_37" /><a href="#Footnote_AK_37" class="fnanchor">[AK]</a> Our canoe arrived from
+Fort William in the evening, with that of Mr. M'Gillivray; and on the
+morrow we all repaired to Saut Ste. Marie, where we saw the ruins which
+the enemy had left. The houses, stores, and saw-mills of the company
+were still smoking.</p>
+
+<p>The schooner was at the foot of the rapids; the Americans had run her
+down, but she grounded on a ledge of rocks, whence they could not
+dislodge her, and so they had burnt her to the water's edge.</p>
+
+<p><i>Le Saut de Ste. Marie</i>, or as it is shortly called, <i>Saut Ste. Marie</i>,
+is a rapid at the outlet of Lake Superior, and may be five hundred or
+six hundred yards wide; its length may be estimated at three quarters of
+a mile, and the descent of the water at about twenty feet. At the lower
+extremity the river widens to about a mile, and here there are a certain
+number of houses. The north bank belongs to Great Britain; the southern
+to the United States. It was on the American side that Mr. Johnston
+lived. Before the war he was collector of the port for the American
+government. On the same side resided a Mr. Nolin, with his family,
+consisting of three half-breed boys and as many girls, one of whom was
+passably pretty. He was an old Indian trader, and his house and
+furniture showed signs of his former prosperity. On the British side we
+found Mr. Charles Ermatinger, who had a pretty establishment: he dwelt
+temporarily in a house that belonged to Nolin, but he was building
+another of stone, very elegant, and had just finished a grist mill. He
+thought that the last would lead the inhabitants to sow more grain than
+they did. These inhabitants are principally old Canadian boatmen,
+married to half-breed or Indian women. The fish afford them subsistence
+during the greater part of the year, and provided they secure potatoes
+enough to carry them through the remainder, they are content. It is to
+be regretted that these people are not more industrious, for the land is
+very fertile.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of August, an express was sent to <i>Michilimackinac</i>
+(Mackinaw) to inform the commandant thereof what had happened at <i>Saut
+Ste. Marie</i>. While expecting the return of the messenger, we put
+ourselves in a state of defence, in case that by chance the Americans
+should make another irruption. The thing was not improbable, for
+according to some expressions which fell from one of their number who
+spoke French, their objects was to capture the furs of the Northwest
+Company, which were expected to arrive shortly from the interior. We
+invited some Indians, who were camped on <i>Pine Point</i>, at some distance
+from the <i>Saut</i>, to help us in case of need; which they promised to do.
+Meanwhile we had no provisions, as everything had been carried off by
+the American forces, and were obliged to subsist on such brook trout as
+we could take with hook and line, and on wild raspberries.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th, the express returned, without having been able to accomplish
+his mission: he had found the island of Mackinaw so completely blockaded
+by the enemy, that it was impossible to reach it, without running the
+greatest risk of being made prisoner.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th, we heard distinctly the discharges of artillery which our
+people were firing off at Michilimackinac, although the distance was
+nearly sixty miles. We thought it was an attempt of the enemy to retake
+that post, but we afterward learned that it was only a royal salute in
+honor of the birthday of the prince regent. We learned, however, during
+our stay at Saut Ste. Marie, that the Americans had really made a
+descent upon the island, but were compelled to retire with a
+considerable loss.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th, some of the partners arrived from Fort William, preceding
+the flotilla which was coming down richly laden with furs. They sent on
+Mr. Decoigne in a light canoe, with letters to Montreal, to order
+provisions to meet this brigade.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, the canoe on which I was a passenger, was sent to the mouth
+of <i>French</i> river, to observe the motions of the enemy. The route lay
+between a range of low islands, and a shelvy beach, very monotonous and
+dreary. We remained at the entrance of the aforesaid river till the
+25th, when the fleet of loaded canoes, forty-seven in number, arrived
+there. The value of the furs which they carried could not be estimated
+at less than a million of dollars: an important prize for the Americans,
+if they could have laid their hands upon it. We were three hundred and
+thirty-five men, all well armed; a large camp was formed, with a
+breast-work of fur-packs, and we kept watch all night. The next morning
+we began to ascend French river, and were soon out of reach of the
+dreaded foe. French river flows from the N.E. and empties into Lake
+Huron, about one hundred and twenty miles from Saut Ste. Marie. We
+reached Lake Nipissing, of which it is the outlet, the same evening, and
+encamped. We crossed that lake on the 27th, made a number of portages,
+and encamped again, not far from <i>Mattawan</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th we entered, at an early hour, the river <i>Ottawa</i>, and
+encamped, in the evening, at the <i>Portage des deux Joachims</i>. This is a
+grand river, but obstructed by many falls and rapids on its way to join
+the St. Lawrence; which caused us to make many portages, and so we
+arrived on the 31st at <i>Kettle falls</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The rock which here arrests the course of the <i>Ottawa</i>, extends from
+shore to shore, and so completely cuts off the waters, that at the time
+we passed none was seen falling over, but sinking by subterranean
+channels, or fissures in the rock, it boiled up below, from seven or
+eight different openings, not unlike water in a huge caldron, whence the
+first explorers of the country gave it the name of <i>Chaudi&egrave;re</i> or
+Caldron falls. Mr. P. Wright resided in this place, where he had a fine
+establishment and a great number of men employed in cultivating the
+land, and getting out lumber.</p>
+
+<p>We left the <i>Chaudi&egrave;res</i> a little before sunset, and passed very soon
+the confluence of the <i>Rideau</i> or <i>Curtain river</i>. This river, which
+casts itself into the Ottawa over a rock twenty-five by thirty feet
+high, is divided in the middle of the fall by a little island, which
+parts the waters into two white sheets, resembling a double curtain open
+in the middle and spreading out below. The <i>coup d'oeil</i> is really
+picturesque; the rays of the setting sun, which struck the waters
+obliquely as we passed, heightened exceedingly their beauty, and
+rendered it worthy of a pencil more skilful than mine.</p>
+
+<p>We voyaged till midnight, when we stopped to let our men take a little
+repose. This rest was only for two hours. At sunrise on the 1st
+September, we reached <i>Long-Saut</i>, where, having procured guides, we
+passed that dangerous rapid, and set foot on shore near the
+dwelling-house of a Mr. M'Donell, who sent us milk and fruits for our
+breakfast. Toward noon we passed the lake of the Two Mountains, where I
+began to see the mountain of my native isle. About two o'clock, we
+passed the rapids of St. Ann.<a name="FNanchor_AL_38" id="FNanchor_AL_38" /><a href="#Footnote_AL_38" class="fnanchor">[AL]</a> Soon after we came opposite <i>Saut St.
+Louis</i> and the village of <i>Caughnawago</i>, passed that last rapid of so
+many, and landed at Montreal, a little before sunset.</p>
+
+<p>I hastened to the paternal roof, where the family were not less
+surprised than overjoyed at beholding me. Not having heard of me, since
+I had sailed from New York, they had believed, in accordance with the
+common report, that I had been murdered by the savages, with Mr. M'Kay
+and the crew of the Tonquin: and certainly, it was by the goodness of
+Providence that I found myself thus safe and sound, in the midst of my
+relations and friends, at the end of a voyage accompanied by so many
+perils, and in which so many of my companions had met with an untimely
+death.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.&mdash;Correction
+     of Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.</p><br /></div>
+
+
+<p>The last chapter closes the original French narrative of my travels
+around and across the continent, as published thirty-three years ago.
+The translation follows that narrative as exactly as possible, varying
+from it only in the correction of a few not very important errors of
+fact. It speaks of places and persons as I spoke of them then. I would
+not willingly lose the verisimilitude of this natural and unadorned
+description, in order to indulge in any new turns of style or more
+philosophical reflections.</p>
+
+<p>But since that period many changes have occurred in the scenes which I
+so long ago visited and described. Though they are well known, I may be
+pardoned for alluding to them.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of the Sandwich islands, who were in a state of paganism at
+that time, have since adopted a form of Christianity, have made
+considerable progress in imitating the civilization of Europe, and even,
+at this moment, begin to entertain the idea of annexation to the United
+States. It appears, however, that the real natives are rapidly dwindling
+away by the effects of their vices, which an exotic and ill-assimilated
+civilization has rather increased than diminished, and to which religion
+has not succeeded in applying a remedy.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the Columbia, whole tribes, and among them, the
+<i>Clatsops</i>, have been swept away by disease. Here again, licentious
+habits universally diffused, spread a fatal disorder through the whole
+nation, and undermining the constitutions of all, left them an easy prey
+to the first contagion or epidemic sickness. But missionaries of various
+Christian sects have labored among the Indians of the Columbia also; not
+to speak of the missions of the Catholic Church, so well known by the
+narrative of Father De Smet and others; and numbers have been taught to
+cultivate the soil, and thus to provide against the famines to which
+they were formerly exposed from their dependence on the precarious
+resources of the chase; while others have received, in the faith of
+Christ, the true principle of national permanence, and a living germ of
+civilization, which may afterward be developed.</p>
+
+<p>Emigration has also carried to the Oregon the axe of the settler, as
+well as the canoe and pack of the fur-trader. The fertile valleys and
+prairies of the Willamet&mdash;once the resort of the deer, the elk, and the
+antelope, are now tilled by the industrious husbandman. Oregon City, so
+near old &quot;Astoria,&quot; whose first log fort I saw and described, is now an
+Archiepiscopal see, and the capital of a territory, which must soon be a
+state of the Union.</p>
+
+<p>Of the regions east of the mountains described in my itinerary, little
+can be said in respect to improvement: they remain in the same wild
+state. The interest of the Hudson's Bay Company, as an association of
+fur-traders, is opposed to agricultural improvements, whose operation
+would be to drive off and extinguish the wild animals that furnish their
+commerce with its object. But on Lake Superior steamboats have
+supplanted the birch-bark canoe of the Indian and the fur-trader, and at
+Saut Ste. Marie, especially on the American side, there is now every
+sign of prosperity. How remote and wild was the region beyond, through
+which I passed, may be estimated by the fact that in thirty-eight years
+the onward-rolling wave of our population has but just reached its
+confines.</p>
+
+<p>Canada, although it has not kept pace with the United States, has yet
+wonderfully advanced in forty years. The valley of the Ottawa, that
+great artery of the St. Lawrence, where I thought it worth while to
+notice the residence of an enterprising farmer and lumber merchant, is
+now a populous district, well cultivated, and sprinkled with villages,
+towns, and cities.</p>
+
+<p>The reader, in perusing my first chapter, found a description of the
+city of New York in 1810, and of the neighboring village of Brooklyn.
+It would be superfluous to establish a comparison at this day. At that
+time, it will be observed, the mere breaking out of war between America
+and England was thought to involve the sacrifice of an American
+commercial establishment on the Pacific, on the ground of its supplies
+being necessarily cut off (it was supposed), and of the United States
+government being unable to protect it from hostile attack. At present it
+suffices to remark that while New York, then so inconsiderable a port,
+is now perhaps the third city in the world, the United States also, are,
+undoubtedly, a first-rate power, unassailable at home, and formidable
+abroad, to the greatest nations.</p>
+
+<p>As in my preface I alluded to Mr. Irving's &quot;Astoria,&quot; as reflecting, in
+my opinion, unjustly, upon the young men engaged in the first expedition
+to the mouth of the Columbia, it may suffice here to observe, without
+entering into particulars, that my narrative, which I think answers for
+its own fidelity, clearly shows that some of them, at least did not want
+courage, activity, zeal for the interests of the company, while it
+existed, and patient endurance of hardship. And although it forms no
+part of the narrative or my voyage, yet as subsequent visits to the West
+and an intimate knowledge of St. Louis, enable me to correct Mr.
+Irving's poetical rather than accurate description of that place, I may
+well do it here. St. Louis now bids fair to rival ere long the &quot;Queen of
+the West;&quot; Mr. Irving describes her as a small trading place, where
+trappers, half-breeds, gay, frivolous Canadian boatmen, &amp;c., &amp;c.,
+congregated and revelled, with that lightness and buoyancy of spirit
+inherited from their French forefathers; the indolent Creole of St.
+Louis caring for little more than the enjoyment of the present hour; a
+motley population, half-civilized, half-barbarous, thrown, on his
+canvas, into one general, confused (I allow highly <i>picturesque</i>) mass,
+without respect of persons: but it is fair to say, with due homage to
+the talent of the sketcher, who has verged slightly on caricature in the
+use of that humor-loving pencil admired by all the world, that St. Louis
+even then contained its noble, industrious, and I may say, princely
+merchants; it could boast its <i>Chouteaus</i>, <i>Soulands</i>, <i>C&eacute;r&eacute;</i>,
+<i>Ch&eacute;niers</i>, <i>Vall&eacute;es</i>, and <i>La Croix</i>, with other kindred spirits, whose
+descendants prove the worth of their sires by their own, and are now
+among the leading business men, as their fathers were the pioneers, of
+the flourishing St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>With these remarks, which I make simply as an act of justice in
+connection with the general subject of the founding of &quot;Astoria,&quot; but in
+which I mean to convey no imputation on the intentional fairness of the
+accomplished author to whom I have alluded, I take a respectful leave of
+my readers.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>APPENDIX.<a name="FNanchor_AM_39" id="FNanchor_AM_39" /><a href="#Footnote_AM_39" class="fnanchor">[AM]</a></h2>
+
+
+<p>In Chapter XVII. I promised the reader to give him an account of the
+fate of some of the persons who left Astoria before, and after its sale
+or transfer to the British. I will now redeem that pledge.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Ramsay Crooks, R. M'Lelland, and Robert Stuart, after enduring
+all sorts of fatigue, dangers and hair-breadth escapes with their
+lives&mdash;all which have been so graphically described by Washington Irving
+in his &quot;Astoria,&quot; finally reached St. Louis and New York.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Clapp went to the Marquesas Islands, where he entered into the
+service of his country in the capacity of Midshipman under Commodore
+Porter&mdash;made his escape from there in company with Lieutenant Gamble of
+the Marine corps, by directions of the Commodore, was captured by the
+British, landed at Buenos Ayres, and finally reached New York.</p>
+
+<p>D. M'Dougall, as a reward for betraying the trust reposed in him by Mr.
+Astor, was made a Partner of the Northwest Company, crossed the
+mountains, and died a miserable death at <i>Bas de la Rivi&egrave;re</i>, Winipeg.
+Donald M'Kenzie, his coadjutor, went back to the Columbia River, where
+he amassed a considerable fortune, with which he retired, and lived in
+Chautauque County in this state, where he died a few years since unknown
+and neglected:&mdash;he was a very selfish man, who cared for no one but
+himself.</p>
+
+<p>It remains only to speak of Messrs. J.C. Halsey, Russell, Farnham, and
+Alfred Seton, who, it will be remembered, embarked with Mr. Hunt on the
+&quot;Pedlar,&quot; in Feb. 1814.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the River about the 1st of April, they proceeded to the Russian
+establishment at Sitka, Norfolk Sound, where they fell in with two or
+three more American vessels, which had come to trade with the natives or
+to avoid the British cruisers. While there, a sail under British colors
+appeared, and Mr. Hunt sent Mr. Seton to ascertain who she was. She
+turned out to be the &quot;Forester,&quot; Captain Pigott, a repeating signal ship
+and letter-of-marque, sent from England in company of a fleet intended
+for the South Seas. On further acquaintance with the captain, Mr. Seton
+(from whom I derive these particulars) learned a fact which has never
+before been published, and which will show the solicitude and
+perseverance of Mr. ASTOR. After despatching the &quot;Lark&quot; from New York,
+fearing that she might be intercepted by the British, he sent orders to
+his correspondent in England to purchase and fit out a British bottom,
+and despatch her to the Columbia to relieve the establishment.</p>
+
+<p>When Mr. Hunt learned this fact, he determined to leave Mr. Halsey at
+Sitka, and proceeding himself northward, landed Mr. Farnham on the coast
+of <i>Kamskatka</i>, to go over land with despatches for Mr. Astor. Mr.
+Farnham accomplished the journey, reached Hamburg, whence he sailed for
+the West Indies, and finally arrived at New York, having made the entire
+circuit of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>The &quot;Pedlar&quot; then sailed to the southeast, and soon reached the coast of
+California, which she approached to get a supply of provisions. Nearing
+one of the harbors, they descried a vessel at anchor inside, showing
+American colors. Hauling their wind, they soon came close to the
+stranger, which, to their surprise, turned out to be the Spanish
+corvette &quot;Santa Barbara,&quot; which sent boats alongside the &quot;Pedlar,&quot; and
+captured her, and kept possession of the prize for some two months,
+during which they dropped down to <i>San Blas</i>. Here Mr. Hunt proposed to
+Mr. Seton to cross the continent and reach the United States the best
+way he could. Mr. Seton, accordingly, went to the Isthmus of Darien,
+where he was detained several months by sickness, but finally reached
+Carthagena, where a British fleet was lying in the roads, to take off
+the English merchants, who in consequence of the revolutionary
+movements going on, sought shelter under their own flag. Here Mr. Seton,
+reduced to the last stage of destitution and squalor, boldly applied to
+Captain Bentham, the commander of the squadron, who, finding him to be a
+gentleman, offered him every needful assistance, gave him a berth in his
+own cabin, and finally landed him safely on the Island of Jamaica,
+whence he, too, found his way to New York.</p>
+
+<p>Of all those engaged in the expedition there are now but four
+survivors&mdash;Ramsay Crooks, Esq. the late President of the American Fur
+Company; Alfred Seton, Esq., Vice-president of the Sun Mutual Insurance
+Company; both of New York city; Benjamin Pillet of Canada; and the
+author, living also in New York. All the rest have paid the debt of
+nature, but their names are recorded in the foregoing pages.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the illiberal remarks made by Captain Thorn on the
+persons who were on board the ill-fated Tonquin, and reproduced by Mr.
+Irving in his &quot;Astoria&quot;&mdash;these young men who were represented as &quot;Bar
+keepers or Billiard markers, most of whom had fled from Justice, &amp;c.&quot;&mdash;I
+feel it a duty to say that they were for the most part, of good
+parentage, liberal education and every way were qualified to discharge
+the duties of their respective stations. The remarks on the general
+character of the voyageurs employed as boat-men and Mechanics, and the
+attempt to cast ridicule on their &quot;Braggart and swaggering manners&quot; come
+with a bad grace from the author of &quot;Astoria,&quot; when we consider that in
+that very work Mr. Irving is compelled to admit their indomitable
+energy, their fidelity to their employers, and their cheerfulness under
+the most trying circumstances in which men can be placed.</p>
+
+<p>With respect to Captain Thorn, I must confess that though a stern
+commander and an irritable man, he paid the strictest attention to the
+health of his crew. His complaints of the squalid appearance of the
+Canadians and mechanics who were on board, can be abated of their force
+by giving a description of the accommodation of these people. The
+Tonquin was a small ship; its forecastle was destined for the crew
+performing duty before the mast. The room allotted for the accommodation
+of the twenty men destined for the establishment, was abaft the
+forecastle; a bulk-head had been let across, and a door led from the
+forecastle into a dark, unventilated, unwholesome place, where they were
+all heaped together, without means of locomotion, and consequently
+deprived of that exercise of the body so necessary to health. Add to
+that, we had no physician on board. In view of these facts, can the
+complaints of the gallant Captain be sustained? Of course Mr. Irving was
+ignorant of these circumstances, as well as of many others which he
+might have known, had some one suggested to him to ask a few questions
+of persons who were within his reach at the time of his publication. I
+have (I need scarcely say) no personal animosity against the unfortunate
+Captain; he always treated me, individually, as well as I could expect;
+and if, in the course of my narrative, I have been severe on his
+actions, I was impelled by a sense of justice to my friends on board,
+as well as by the circumstance that such explanations of his general
+deportment were requisite to convey the historical truth to my readers.</p>
+
+<p>The idea of a conspiracy against him on board is so absurd that it
+really does not deserve notice. The threat, or rather the proposal made
+to him by Mr. M'Kay, in the following words&mdash;&quot;if you say fight, fight it
+is&quot;&mdash;originated in a case where one of the sailors had maltreated a
+Canadian lad, who came to complain to Mr. M'Kay. The captain would not
+interpose his authority, and said in my presence, &quot;Let them fight out
+their own battles:&quot;&mdash;it was upon that answer that Mr. M'Kay gave vent to
+the expression quoted above. I might go on with a long list of
+inaccuracies, more or less grave or trivial, in the beautifully written
+work of Mr. Irving, but it would be tedious to go through the whole of
+them. The few remarks to which I have given place above, will suffice to
+prove that the assertion made in the preface was not unwarranted. It is
+far from my intention to enter the lists with a man of the literary
+merit and reputation of Mr. Irving, but as a narrator of events of which
+I was an EYEWITNESS, I felt bound to tell the truth, although that truth
+might impugn the historical accuracy of a work which ranks as a classic
+in the language. At the same time I entirely exonerate Mr. Irving from
+any intention of prejudicing the minds of his readers, as he doubtless
+had only in view to support the character of his friend: that sentiment
+is worthy of a generous heart, but it should not be gratified, nor would
+he wish to gratify it, I am sure, at the expense of the character of
+others.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>NOTE BY THE EDITOR.</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Perhaps even contrary to the wish of Mr. Franchere, I have left the
+     above almost word for word as he wrote it. It is a part of the
+     history of the affairs related as well in Mr. Irving's ASTORIA as
+     in the present volume, that the reclamations of one of the clerks
+     on that famous and unfortunate voyage of the Tonquin, against the
+     disparaging description of himself and his colleagues given in the
+     former work, should be fairly recorded. At the same time, I can not
+     help stating my own impression that a natural susceptibility,
+     roused by those slighting remarks from Captain Thorn's
+     correspondence, to which Mr. Irving as an historian gives currency,
+     has somewhat blinded my excellent friend to the tone of banter, so
+     characteristic of the chronicler of the Knickerbockers, in which
+     all these particulars are given, more as traits of the character
+     of the stern old sea-captain, with his hearty contempt for
+     land-lubbers and literary clerks, than as a dependable account of
+     the persons on board his ship, some of whom might have been, and as
+     we see by the present work, were, in fact, very meritorious
+     characters, for whose literary turn, and faithful journalizing
+     (which seems to have especially provoked the captain's wrath), now
+     at the end of more than forty years, we have so much reason to be
+     thankful. Certainly Mr. Irving himself, who has drawn frequently on
+     Mr. Franchere's narrative, could not, from his well-known taste in
+     such matters, be insensible to the Defoe-like simplicity thereof,
+     nor to the picturesque descriptions, worthy of a professional pen,
+     with which it is sprinkled.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>THE END.</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1" /><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> McKenzie's Travels.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2" /><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Lewis and Clark's Report.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3" /><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> This place is famous in the history of Canada, and more
+particularly in the thrilling story of the Indian missions.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4" /><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> This gentleman was really <i>charg&eacute; d'affaires</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_E_5" id="Footnote_E_5" /><a href="#FNanchor_E_5"><span class="label">[E]</span></a> Bougainville calls it &quot;Calf-foot root.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_F_6" id="Footnote_F_6" /><a href="#FNanchor_F_6"><span class="label">[F]</span></a> The <i>Tootoos</i> and all the women, the wives of the king and
+principal chiefs excepted, are eternally condemned to the use of fruits
+and vegetables; dogs and pigs being exclusively reserved for the table
+of the <i>Eris</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_G_7" id="Footnote_G_7" /><a href="#FNanchor_G_7"><span class="label">[G]</span></a> Some Indian tribes think that women have no souls, but die
+altogether like the brutes; others assign them a different paradise from
+that of men, which indeed they might have reason to prefer for
+themselves, unless their relative condition were to be ameliorated in
+the next world.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_H_8" id="Footnote_H_8" /><a href="#FNanchor_H_8"><span class="label">[H]</span></a> These facts, if they were authenticated, would prove that
+the Spaniards were the first who discovered the mouth of the Columbia.
+It is certain that long before the voyages of Captains Gray and
+Vancouver, they knew at least a part of the course of that river, which
+was designated in their maps under the name of <i>Oregon</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_I_9" id="Footnote_I_9" /><a href="#FNanchor_I_9"><span class="label">[I]</span></a> This schooner was found too small for the purpose. Mr.
+Astor had no idea of the dangers to be met at the mouth of the Colombia,
+or he would have ordered the frame of a vessel of at least one hundred
+tons. The frames shipped in New York were used in the construction of
+this one only, which was employed solely in the river trade.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_J_10" id="Footnote_J_10" /><a href="#FNanchor_J_10"><span class="label">[J]</span></a> Mr. Thompson had no doubt been sent by the agents of the
+Northwest Company, to take possession of an eligible spot at the mouth
+of the Columbia, with a view of forestalling the plan of Mr. Astor. He
+would have been there before us, no doubt, but for the desertion of his
+men. The consequence of this step would have been his taking possession
+of the country, and displaying the British flag, as an emblem, of that
+possession and a guarantee of protection hereafter. He found himself too
+late, however, and the stars and stripes floating over <i>Astoria</i>. This
+note is not intended by the author as an after-thought: as the opinion
+it conveys was that which we all entertained at the time of that
+gentleman's visit.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_K_11" id="Footnote_K_11" /><a href="#FNanchor_K_11"><span class="label">[K]</span></a> One of these men bad been left with him by Mr. Thompson, in
+exchange for a Sandwich-islander whom that gentleman proposed to take to
+Canada, and thence to England.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_L_12" id="Footnote_L_12" /><a href="#FNanchor_L_12"><span class="label">[L]</span></a> A thoroughly savage and lazy tribe, inhabiting the plains
+of the Columbia, between the 43d and 44th degrees of latitude.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_M_13" id="Footnote_M_13" /><a href="#FNanchor_M_13"><span class="label">[M]</span></a> These <i>caches</i> are famous in all the narratives of overland
+travel, whether for trade or discovery. The manner of making them is
+described by Captains Lewis and Clarke, as follows: they choose a dry
+situation, then describing a circle of some twenty inches diameter,
+remove the sod as gently and carefully as possible. The hole is then
+sunk a foot deep or more, perpendicularly; it is then worked gradually
+wider as it descends, till it becomes six or seven feet deep, and shaped
+like a kettle, or the lower part of a large still. As the earth is dug
+out, it is handed up in a vessel, and carefully laid upon a skin or
+cloth, in which it is carried away, and usually thrown into the river,
+if there be one, or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of
+three or four inches thick is then made of dry sticks, on which is
+thrown hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods, after being well aired
+and dried, are laid down, and preserved from contact with the wall by a
+layer of other dried sticks, till all is stowed away. When the hole is
+nearly full, a hide is laid on top, and the earth is thrown upon this,
+and beaten down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the
+whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest
+appearance of an excavation. The first shower effaces every sign of what
+has been done, and such a cache is safe for years.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_N_14" id="Footnote_N_14" /><a href="#FNanchor_N_14"><span class="label">[N]</span></a> We were apprized of this unfortunate rencontre by natives
+from up the river, on the 15th of April, but disbelieved it. [It is
+curious to observe the want of military sagacity and precaution which
+characterized the operations of these traders, compared with the exact
+calculations of danger and the unfailing measures of defence, employed
+from the very outset by Captains Lewis and Clarke in the same country.
+There was one very audacious attempt at plunder made upon the latter;
+but besides that it cost the Indians a life or two, the latter lost
+property of their own far exceeding their booty. It is true that the
+American officers had a stronger force at their disposal than our
+merchants had, and that, too, consisting of experienced western hunters
+and veteran soldiers of the frontier; but it is not less interesting to
+note the difference, because it is easy to account for it.&mdash;J.V.H.]</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_O_15" id="Footnote_O_15" /><a href="#FNanchor_O_15"><span class="label">[O]</span></a> The profits of the last establishment were slender; because
+the people engaged at it were obliged to subsist on horse-flesh, and
+they ate ninety horses during the winter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_P_16" id="Footnote_P_16" /><a href="#FNanchor_P_16"><span class="label">[P]</span></a> It being understood, of course, that I render into
+civilized expressions the language of this barbarian, and represent by
+words and phrases what he could only convey by gestures or by signs.
+[The <i>na&iuml;vet&eacute;</i> of those notes, and of the narrative in these passages,
+is amusing.&mdash;ED.]</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_Q_17" id="Footnote_Q_17" /><a href="#FNanchor_Q_17"><span class="label">[Q]</span></a> A great village or encampment of Indians, among whom the
+Spaniards had sent missionaries under the conduct of Signor Quadra; but
+whence the latter were chased by Captain Vancouver, in 1792, as
+mentioned in the Introduction.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_R_18" id="Footnote_R_18" /><a href="#FNanchor_R_18"><span class="label">[R]</span></a> It is equally evident that even at the time when Captain
+Thorn was first notified of the dangerous crowd and threatening
+appearance of the natives, a display of firearms would have sufficed to
+prevent an outbreak. Had he come on deck with Mr. M'Kay and Mr. Lewis,
+each armed with a musket, and a couple of pistols at the belt, it is
+plain from the timidity the savages afterward displayed, that he might
+have cleared the ship, probably without shedding a drop of blood.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_S_19" id="Footnote_S_19" /><a href="#FNanchor_S_19"><span class="label">[S]</span></a> However, some cases of guns and kegs of powder were thrown
+into the falls, before the party retreated.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_T_20" id="Footnote_T_20" /><a href="#FNanchor_T_20"><span class="label">[T]</span></a> This Indian returned some time after to the factory, but in
+a pitiable condition. After the departure of the canoe, he had concealed
+himself behind a rock, and so passed the night. At daybreak, fearing to
+be discovered, he gained the woods and directed his steps toward the
+fort, across a mountainous region. He arrived at length at the bank of a
+little stream, which he was at first unable to cross. Hunger, in the
+meantime, began to urge him; he might have appeased it with game, of
+which he saw plenty, but unfortunately he had lost the flint of his gun.
+At last, with a raft of sticks, he crossed the river, and arrived at a
+village, the inhabitants of which disarmed him, and made him prisoner.
+Our people hearing where he was, sent to seek him, and gave some
+blankets for his ransom.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_U_21" id="Footnote_U_21" /><a href="#FNanchor_U_21"><span class="label">[U]</span></a> Some of my readers would, no doubt, desire some scientific
+details on the botany and natural history of this country. That is, in
+fact, what they ought to expect from a man who had travelled for his
+pleasure, or to make discoveries: but the object of my travels was not
+of this description; my occupations had no relation with science; and,
+as I have said in my preface, I was not, and am not now, either a
+naturalist or a botanist.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_V_22" id="Footnote_V_22" /><a href="#FNanchor_V_22"><span class="label">[V]</span></a> Plumbago.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_W_23" id="Footnote_W_23" /><a href="#FNanchor_W_23"><span class="label">[W]</span></a> Horses are abundant up the river; but they are not
+indigenous to the country. They will be spoken of in a future chapter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_X_24" id="Footnote_X_24" /><a href="#FNanchor_X_24"><span class="label">[X]</span></a> This appears improbable, and is, no doubt, overstated; but
+so far as it is true, only shows the degradation of these women, and the
+absence of moral love on both sides. The indifference to virgin chastity
+described by Mr. F., is a characteristic of barbarous nations in
+general, and is explained by the principle stated in the next note
+below; the savage state being essentially one in which the supernatural
+bond of human fellowship is snapped: it is (as it has been called) the
+state of <i>nature</i>, in which continence is practically impossible; and
+what men can not have, that they soon cease to prize. The same utter
+indifference to the past conduct of the girls they marry is mentioned by
+MAYHEW as existing among the costermongers and street population of
+London, whom he well likens to the barbarous tribes lying on the
+outskirts of more ancient nations.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_Y_25" id="Footnote_Y_25" /><a href="#FNanchor_Y_25"><span class="label">[Y]</span></a> It is Coleridge who observes that <i>every tribe is
+barbarous</i> which has no recognised public worship or cult, and no
+regular priesthood as opposed to self-constituted conjurors. It is, in
+fact, by public worship alone that human society is organized and
+vivified; and it is impossible to maintain such worship without a
+sacerdotal order, however it be constituted. <i>No culture without a
+cult</i>, is the result of the study of the races of mankind. Hence those
+who would destroy religion are the enemies of civilization.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_Z_26" id="Footnote_Z_26" /><a href="#FNanchor_Z_26"><span class="label">[Z]</span></a> It seems clear that this Indian mythology is a form of the
+primitive tradition obscured by symbol. The creation of man by the
+Supreme Divinity, but in an imperfect state (&quot;his eyes not yet opened&quot;),
+his deliverance from that condition by an inferior but more beneficent
+deity (the Satan of the Bible), and the progress of the emancipated and
+enlightened being, in the arts of industry, are clearly set forth. Thus
+the devil has his cosmogony as well as the Almighty, and his tradition
+in opposition to the divine.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AA_27" id="Footnote_AA_27" /><a href="#FNanchor_AA_27"><span class="label">[AA]</span></a> There can not be a doubt that the existing tribes on the
+N.W. coast, have reached that country from the <i>South</i>, and not from the
+North. They are the <i>debris</i> of the civilization of Central America,
+expelled by a defecating process that is going on in all human
+societies, and so have sunk into barbarism.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AB_28" id="Footnote_AB_28" /><a href="#FNanchor_AB_28"><span class="label">[AB]</span></a> Turcotte died of <i>King's Evil</i>. De Launay was a
+half-breed, of violent temper, who had taken an Indian woman to live
+with him; he left Mr. Reed in the autumn, and was never heard of again.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AC_29" id="Footnote_AC_29" /><a href="#FNanchor_AC_29"><span class="label">[AC]</span></a> The process of boiling employed by the Indians in this
+case, extracts from the moss its gelatine, which serves to supply the
+waste of those tissues into which that principle enters; but as the moss
+contains little or none of the proximates which constitute the bulk of
+the living solids and fluids, it will not, of course, by itself, support
+life or strength.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AD_30" id="Footnote_AD_30" /><a href="#FNanchor_AD_30"><span class="label">[AD]</span></a> A <i>snag</i> of course, of the nature of which the young
+Canadian seems to have been ignorant.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AE_31" id="Footnote_AE_31" /><a href="#FNanchor_AE_31"><span class="label">[AE]</span></a> Mr. Franchere uniformly mentions the direction from which
+a stream appears to flow, not that toward which it runs; a natural
+method on the part of one who was ascending the current.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AF_32" id="Footnote_AF_32" /><a href="#FNanchor_AF_32"><span class="label">[AF]</span></a> This is interesting, as the rough calculation of an
+unscientific traveller, unprovided with instruments, and at that date.
+The real height of the Rocky Mountains, as now ascertained, averages
+twelve thousand feet; the highest known peak is about sixteen
+thousand.&mdash;ED.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AG_33" id="Footnote_AG_33" /><a href="#FNanchor_AG_33"><span class="label">[AG]</span></a> Mr. Franchere, not having the fear of the <i>Abb&eacute; Gaume</i>
+before his eyes, so wrote in his Journal of 1814; finding consolation in
+a thought savoring, we confess, more of Virgil than of the catechism. It
+is a classic term that calls to our mind rough Captain <i>Thorn's</i>
+sailor-like contempt for his literary passengers so comically described
+by Mr. <i>Irving</i>. Half of the humor as well as of the real interest of
+Mr. Franchere's charming narrative, is lost by one who has never read
+&quot;Astoria.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AH_34" id="Footnote_AH_34" /><a href="#FNanchor_AH_34"><span class="label">[AH]</span></a> <i>Pemican</i>, of which I have already spoken several times,
+is the Indian name for the dried and pounded meat which the natives sell
+to the traders. About fifty pounds of this meat is placed in a trough
+(<i>un grand vaisseau fait d'un tronc d'arbre</i>), and about an equal
+quantity of tallow is melted and poured over it; it is thoroughly mixed
+into one mass, and when cold, is put up in bags made of undressed
+buffalo hide, with the hair outside, and sewed up as tightly as
+possible. The meat thus impregnated with tallow, hardens, and will keep
+for years. It is eaten without any other preparation; but sometimes wild
+pears or dried berries are added, which render the flavor more
+agreeable.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AI_35" id="Footnote_AI_35" /><a href="#FNanchor_AI_35"><span class="label">[AI]</span></a> A Spanish mission or presidency, in about the 36th degree
+of latitude.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AJ_36" id="Footnote_AJ_36" /><a href="#FNanchor_AJ_36"><span class="label">[AJ]</span></a> Another Spanish presidency, in about the 38th degree of
+latitude, and the first European establishment to be met with south of
+the Columbia. [These now obsolete notes are interesting as indicative of
+the period when they were written.&mdash;ED.]</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AK_37" id="Footnote_AK_37" /><a href="#FNanchor_AK_37"><span class="label">[AK]</span></a> The N.W. Company having raised a regiment composed of
+their own servants, and known as the <i>voyageur corps</i>, and having also
+instigated to war, and armed, the Indian tribes, over which they had
+influence, had brought on themselves this act of retaliation. Mr.
+Johnston also had engaged actively in the war against the United
+States.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AL_38" id="Footnote_AL_38" /><a href="#FNanchor_AL_38"><span class="label">[AL]</span></a> &quot;Far-famed and so well described,&quot; adds Mr. Franchere, in
+his own translation, but I prefer to leave the expression in its
+original striking simplicity, as he wrote it before he had heard of
+MOORE. Every reader remembers:&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">&quot;Soon as the woods on shore grow dim,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn.&quot;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 10em;"><i>Canadian Boatman's Song</i>.</span><br />
+</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_AM_39" id="Footnote_AM_39" /><a href="#FNanchor_AM_39"><span class="label">[AM]</span></a> We have thought it best to give this Appendix, excepting
+some abbreviations rendered necessary to avoid repetition of what has
+been stated before, in Mr. Franchere's own words, particularly as a
+specimen of his own English style may be justly interesting to the
+reader.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific
+
+Author: Gabriel Franchere
+
+Release Date: May 27, 2005 [EBook #15911]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Suzanne Lybarger and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Because this is a personal narrative,
+inconsistencies in spelling, hyphenation, capitalization, and
+italicization have been preserved in cases where it is not clearly an
+error from the original printing.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ASTORIA, AS IT WAS IN 1813.]
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA
+
+IN THE YEARS 1811, 1812, 1813, AND 1814
+
+OR
+
+THE FIRST AMERICAN SETTLEMENT ON THE PACIFIC
+
+
+BY GABRIEL FRANCHERE
+
+TRANSLATED AND EDITED BY J.V. HUNTINGTON
+
+
+
+REDFIELD
+110 AND 112 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK
+
+1854.
+
+
+
+
+Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854,
+
+BY J.S. REDFIELD,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and
+for the Southern District of New York.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+In 1846, when the boundary question (that of the Oregon Territory in
+particular) was at its height, the Hon. THOMAS H. BENTON delivered in
+the United States Senate a decisive speech, of which the following is an
+extract:--
+
+"Now for the proof of all I have said. I happen to have in my possession
+the book of all others, which gives the fullest and most authentic
+details on all the points I have mentioned--a book written at a time,
+and under circumstances, when the author (himself a British subject and
+familiar on the Columbia) had no more idea that the British would lay
+claim to that river, than Mr. Harmon, the American writer whom I
+quoted, ever thought of our claiming New Caledonia. It is the work of
+Mr. FRANCHERE, a gentleman of Montreal, with whom I have the pleasure to
+be personally acquainted, and one of those employed by Mr. ASTOR in
+founding his colony. He was at the founding of ASTORIA, at its sale to
+the Northwest Company, saw the place seized as a British conquest, and
+continued there after its seizure. He wrote in French: his work has not
+been done into English, though it well deserves it; and I read from the
+French text. He gives a brief and true account of the discovery of the
+Columbia."
+
+I felt justly proud of this notice of my unpretending work, especially
+that the latter should have contributed, as it did, to the amicable
+settlement of the then pending difficulties. I have flattered myself
+ever since, that it belonged to the historical literature of the great
+country, which by adoption has become mine.
+
+The re-perusal of "Astoria" by WASHINGTON IRVING (1836) inspired me with
+an additional motive for giving my book in an English dress. Without
+disparagement to Mr. IRVING'S literary, fame, I may venture to say that
+I found in his work inaccuracies, misstatements (unintentional of
+course), and a want of chronological order, which struck forcibly one so
+familiar with the events themselves. I thought I could show--or rather
+that my simple narration, of itself, plainly discovered--that some of
+the young men embarked in that expedition (which founded our Pacific
+empire), did not merit the ridicule and contempt which Captain THORN
+attempted to throw upon them, and which perhaps, through the genius of
+Mr. IRVING, might otherwise remain as a lasting stigma on their
+characters.
+
+But the consideration which, before all others, prompts me to offer this
+narrative to the American reading public, is my desire to place before
+them, therein, a simple and connected account (which at this time ought
+to be interesting), of the early settlement of the Oregon Territory by
+one of our adopted citizens, the enterprising merchant JOHN JACOB ASTOR.
+The importance of a vast territory, which at no distant day may add two
+more bright stars to our national banner, is a guarantee that my humble
+effort will be appreciated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+NOTE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+It has been the editor's wish to let Mr. Franchere speak for himself. To
+preserve in the translation the Defoe-like simplicity of the original
+narrative of the young French Canadian, has been his chief care. Having
+read many narratives of travel and adventure in our northwestern
+wilderness, he may be permitted to say that he has met with none that
+gives a more vivid and picturesque description of it, or in which the
+personal adventures of the narrator, and the varying fortunes of a great
+enterprise, mingle more happily, and one may say, more dramatically,
+with the itinerary. The clerkly minuteness of the details is not
+without its charm either, and their fidelity speaks for itself. Take it
+altogether, it must be regarded as a fragment of our colonial history
+saved from oblivion; it fills up a vacuity which Mr. IRVING'S classic
+work does not quite supply; it is, in fact, the only account by an
+eye-witness and a participator in the enterprise, of the first attempt
+to form a settlement on the Pacific under the stars and stripes.
+
+The editor has thought it would be interesting to add Mr. Franchere's
+Preface to the original French edition, which will be found on the next
+page.
+
+BALTIMORE, _February 6, 1854_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE FRENCH EDITION.
+
+
+When I was writing my journal on the vessel which carried me to the
+northwest coast of North America, or in the wild regions of this
+continent, I was far from thinking that it would be placed one day
+before the public eye. I had no other end in writing, but to procure to
+my family and my friends a more exact and more connected detail of what
+I had seen or learned in the course of my travels, than it would have
+been possible for me to give them in a _viva voce_ narration. Since my
+return to my native city, my manuscript has passed into various hands
+and has been read by different persons: several of my friends
+immediately advised me to print it; but it is only quite lately that I
+have allowed myself to be persuaded, that without being a learned
+naturalist, a skilful geographer, or a profound moralist, a traveller
+may yet interest by the faithful and succinct account of the situations
+in which he has found himself, the adventures which have happened to
+him, and the incidents of which he has been a witness; that if a simple
+ingenuous narrative, stripped of the merit of science and the graces of
+diction, must needs be less enjoyed by the man of letters or by the
+_savant_, it would have, in compensation, the advantage of being at the
+level of a greater number of readers; in fine, that the desire of
+affording an entertainment to his countrymen, according to his capacity,
+and without any mixture of the author's vanity or of pecuniary interest,
+would be a well-founded title to their indulgence. Whether I have done
+well or ill in yielding to these suggestions, which I am bound to regard
+as those of friendship, or of good-will, it belongs to the impartial and
+disinterested reader, to decide.
+
+MONTREAL, 1819.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Departure from Montreal.--Arrival in New York.--Description of
+that City.--Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Departure from New York.--Reflections of the Author.--Navigation,
+falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrival at the Falkland Isles.--Landing.--Perilous Situation of the
+Author and some of his Companions.--Portrait of Captain Thorn.--Cape
+Horn.--Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Accident.--View of the Coast.--Attempted Visit of the Natives.--Their
+Industry.--Bay of Karaka-koua.--Landing on the Island.--John Young,
+Governor of Owahee.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Bay of Ohetity.--Tamehameha, King of the Island.--His Visit to the
+Ship.--His Capital.--His Naval Force.--His Authority.--Productions of
+the Country.--Manners and Customs.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Departure from Wahoo.--Storm.--Arrival at the Mouth of the
+Columbia.--Reckless Order of the Captain.--Difficulty of the
+Entrance.--Perilous Situation of the Ship.--Unhappy Fate of a Part
+of the Crew and People of the Expedition.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.--Obsequies
+of a Sandwich-Islander.--First Steps in the Formation of the intended
+Establishment.--New Alarm.--Encampment.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Voyage up the River.--Description of the Country.--Meeting with
+strange Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Departure of the Tonquin.--Indian Messengers.--Project of an Expedition
+to the Interior.--Arrival of Mr. Daniel Thompson.--Departure of the
+Expedition.--Designs upon us by the Natives.--Rumors of the Destruction
+of the Tonquin.--Scarcity of Provisions.--Narrative of a strange
+Indian.--Duplicity and Cunning of Comcomly.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Occupation at Astoria.--Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+Expedition to the Interior.--New Expedition.--Excursion in Search
+of three Deserters.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.--Occupations at
+Astoria.--Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+M'Lellan.--Account of their Journey.--Arrival of Mr. Wilson P. Hunt.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Arrival of the Ship Beaver.--Unexpected Return of Messrs. D. Stuart,
+B. Stuart, M'Lelland, &c.--Cause of that Return.--Ship discharging.--New
+Expeditions.--Hostile Attitude of the Natives.--Departure of the
+Beaver.--Journeys of the Author.--His Occupations at the Establishment.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Uneasiness respecting the "Beaver."--News of the Declaration of
+War between Great Britain and the United States.--Consequences
+of that Intelligence.--Different Occurrences.--Arrival of two
+Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Preparations for abandoning the
+Country.--Postponement of Departure.--Arrangement-with Mr. J.G. M'Tavish.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Arrival of the Ship "Albatross."--Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+the Beaver at Astoria.--Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a Former
+Occasion.--Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the Resolution of
+the Partners.--His Departure.--Narrative of the Destruction of the
+Tonquin.--Causes of that Disaster.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Sale of the
+Establishment at Astoria to that Company.--Canadian News.--Arrival of
+the British Sloop-of-War "Raccoon."--Accident on Board that Vessel.--The
+Captain takes Formal Possession of Astoria.--Surprise and Discontent of
+the Officers And Crew.--Departure of the "Raccoon."
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Expeditions to the Interior.--Return of Messrs. John Stuart and
+D. M'Kenzie.--Theft committed by the Natives.--War Party against
+the Thieves.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Description of Tongue Point.--A Trip to the _Willamet_.--Arrival
+of W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.--Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+Lark.--Preparations for crossing the Continent.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Situation of the Columbia River.--Qualities of its Soil.--Climate,
+&c.--Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.--Their Wars.--Their
+Marriages.--Medicine Men.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Religious
+Notions.--Language.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+Departure from Astoria Or Fort George.--Accident.--Passage of
+the Dalles or Narrows.--Great Columbian Desert.--Aspect of the
+Country.--Wallawalla and Sha-aptin Rivers.--Rattlesnakes.--Some
+Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.--Her Narrative.--Reflections of
+the Author.--Priest's Rapid.--River Okenakan.--Kettle Falls.--Pine
+Moss.--Scarcity of Food.--Rivers, Lakes, &c.--Accident.--A
+Rencontre.--First View of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+Course of the Columbian River.--Canoe River.--Foot-march toward the
+Rocky Mountains.--Passage of the Mountains.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.--Description of this
+Post.--Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.--Mountain Sheep,
+&c.--Continuation of the Journey.--Unhappy Accident.--Reflections.--News
+from Canada.--Hunter's Lodge.--Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+Red Deer Lake.--Antoine Dejarlais.--Beaver River.--N. Nadeau.--Moose
+River.--Bridge Lake.--Saskatchawine River.--Fort Vermilion.--Mr.
+Hallet.--Trading-Houses.--Beautiful Country.--Reflections.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+Fort Montee.--Cumberland House.--Lake Bourbon.--Great Winipeg
+Rapids.--Lake Winipeg.--Trading-House.--Lake of the Woods.--Rainy
+Lake House, &c.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+Arrival at Fort William.--Description of that Post--News from the
+River Columbia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+Departure from Fort William.--Navigation on Lake Superior.--Michipicoton
+Bay.--Meeting a Canoe.--Batchawainon Bay.--Arrival at Saut Ste.
+Marie.--Occurrences there.--Departure.--Lake Huron.--French
+River.--Lake Nipissing.--Ottawa River.--Kettle Falls.--Rideau
+River.--Long-Saut.--Arrival in Montreal.--Conclusion.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.--Correction of
+Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+Mr. Seton's Adventures.--Survivors of the Expedition in
+1851.--Author's Protest against some Expressions in Mr. Irving's
+"Astoria."--Editor's Note.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+Since the independence of the United States of America, the merchants of
+that industrious and enterprising nation have carried on an extremely
+advantageous commerce on the northwest coast of this continent. In the
+course of their voyages they have made a great number of discoveries
+which they have not thought proper to make public; no doubt to avoid
+competition in a lucrative business.
+
+In 1792, Captain Gray, commanding the ship Columbia of Boston,
+discovered in latitude 46 deg. 19" north, the entrance of a great bay on the
+Pacific coast. He sailed into it, and having perceived that it was the
+outlet or estuary of a large river, by the fresh water which he found
+at a little distance from the entrance, he continued his course upward
+some eighteen miles, and dropped anchor on the left bank, at the opening
+of a deep bay. There he made a map or rough sketch of what he had seen
+of this river (accompanied by a written description of the soundings,
+bearings, &c.); and having finished his traffic with the natives (the
+object of his voyage to these parts), he put out to sea, and soon after
+fell in with Captain Vancouver, who was cruising by order of the British
+government, to seek new discoveries. Mr. Gray acquainted him with the
+one he had just made, and even gave him a copy of the chart he had drawn
+up. Vancouver, who had just driven off a colony of Spaniards established
+on the coast, under the command of Senor Quadra (England and Spain being
+then at war), despatched his first-lieutenant Broughton, who ascended
+the river in boats some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and fifty
+miles, took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic
+majesty, giving the river the name of the _Columbia_, and to the bay
+where the American captain stopped, that of _Gray's bay_. Since that
+period the country had been seldom visited (till 1811), and chiefly by
+American ships.
+
+Sir Alexander McKenzie, in his second overland voyage, tried to reach
+the western ocean by the Columbia river, and thought he had succeeded
+when he came out six degrees farther north, at the bottom of Puget's
+sound, by another river.[A] In 1805, the American government sent
+Captains Lewis and Clark, with about thirty men, including some Kentucky
+hunters, on an overland journey to the mouth of the Columbia. They
+ascended the Missouri, crossed the mountains at the source of that
+river, and following the course of the Columbia, reached the shores of
+the Pacific, where they were forced to winter. The report which they
+made of their expedition to the United States government created a
+lively sensation.[B]
+
+[Footnote A: McKenzie's Travels.]
+
+[Footnote B: Lewis and Clark's Report.]
+
+Mr. John Jacob Astor, a New York merchant, who conducted almost alone
+the trade in furs south of the great lakes Huron and Superior, and who
+had acquired by that commerce a prodigious fortune, thought to augment
+it by forming on the banks of the Columbia an establishment of which the
+principal or supply factory should be at the mouth of that river. He
+communicated his views to the agents of the Northwest Company; he was
+even desirous of forming the proposed establishment in concert with
+them; but after some negotiations, the inland or wintering partners of
+that association of fur-traders having rejected the plan, Mr. Astor
+determined to make the attempt alone. He needed for the success of his
+enterprise, men long versed in the Indian trade, and he soon found them.
+Mr. Alexander M'Kay (the same who had accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie
+in his travels overland), a bold and enterprising man, left the
+Northwest Company to join him; and soon after, Messrs Duncan M'Dougal
+and Donald M'Kenzie (also in the service of the company) and Messrs.
+David Stuart and Robert Stuart, all of Canada, did the same. At length,
+in the winter of 1810, a Mr. Wilson Price Hunt of St. Louis, on the
+Mississippi, having also joined them, they determined that the
+expedition should be set on foot in the following spring.
+
+It was in the course of that winter that one of my friends made me
+acquainted in confidence with the plan of these gentlemen, under the
+injunction of strictest secrecy. The desire of seeing strange countries,
+joined to that of acquiring a fortune, determined me to solicit
+employment of the new association; on the 20th of May I had an interview
+with Mr. A. M'Kay, with whom the preliminaries were arranged; and on the
+24th of the same month I signed an agreement as an apprenticed clerk for
+the term of five years.
+
+When the associates had engaged a sufficient number of Canadian boatmen,
+they equipped a bark canoe under charge of Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie,
+with a Mr. Perrault as clerk, and a crew of fourteen men. These
+gentlemen were to proceed to Mackinaw, and thence to St. Louis, hiring
+on the way as many men as they could to man the canoes, in which, from
+the last-mentioned port, they were to ascend the Missouri to its source,
+and there diverging from the route followed by Lewis and Clark, reach
+the mouth of the Columbia to form a junction with another party, who
+were to go round by way of Cape Horn. In the course of my narrative I
+shall have occasion to speak of the success of both these expeditions.
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     Departure from Montreal.--Arrival in New York.--Description of that
+     City.--Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition.
+
+
+We remained in Montreal the rest of the spring and a part of the summer.
+At last, having completed our arrangements for the journey, we received
+orders to proceed, and on the 26th of July, accompanied by my father and
+brothers and a few friends, I repaired to the place of embarkation,
+where was prepared a birch bark canoe, manned by nine Canadians, having
+Mr. A. M'Kay as commander, and a Mr. A. Fisher as passenger. The
+sentiments which I experienced at that moment would be as difficult for
+me to describe as they were painful to support; for the first time in my
+life I quitted the place of my birth, and was separated from beloved
+parents and intimate friends, having for my whole consolation the faint
+hope of seeing them again. We embarked at about five, P.M., and arrived
+at La Prairie de la Madeleine (on the opposite side of the St.
+Lawrence), toward eight o'clock.[C] We slept at this village, and the
+next morning, very early, having secured the canoe on a wagon, we got in
+motion again, and reached St. John's on the river Richelieu, a little
+before noon. Here we relaunched our canoe (after having well calked the
+seams), crossed or rather traversed the length of Lake Champlain, and
+arrived at Whitehall on the 30th. There we were overtaken by Mr. Ovid de
+Montigny, and a Mr. P.D. Jeremie, who were to be of the expedition.
+
+[Footnote C: This place is famous in the history of Canada, and more
+particularly in the thrilling story of the Indian missions.--ED.]
+
+Having again placed our canoe on a wagon, we pursued our journey, and
+arrived on the 1st of August at Lansingburg, a little village situated
+on the bank of the river Hudson. Here we got our canoe once more afloat,
+passed by Troy, and by Albany, everywhere hospitably received, our
+Canadian boatmen, having their hats decorated with parti-colored ribands
+and feathers, being taken by the Americans for so many wild Indians, and
+arrived at New York on the 3d, at eleven o'clock in the evening.
+
+We had landed at the north end of the city, and the next day, being
+Sunday, we re-embarked, and were obliged to make a course round the
+city, in order to arrive at our lodgings on Long Island. We sang as we
+rowed; which, joined to the unusual sight of a birch bark canoe impelled
+by nine stout Canadians, dark as Indians, and as gayly adorned,
+attracted a crowd upon the wharves to gaze at us as we glided along. We
+found on Long Island (in the village of Brooklyn) those young gentlemen
+engaged in the service of the new company, who had left Canada in
+advance of our party.
+
+The vessel in which we were to sail not being ready, I should have found
+myself quite isolated and a stranger in the great city of New York, but
+for a letter of introduction to Mr. G----, given me on my setting out,
+by Madame his sister. I had formed the acquaintance of this gentleman
+during a stay which he had made at Montreal in 1801; but as I was then
+very young, he would probably have had some difficulty in recognising me
+without his sister's letter. He introduced me to several of his friends,
+and I passed in an agreeable manner the five weeks which elapsed between
+my arrival in New York and the departure of the ship.
+
+I shall not undertake to describe New York; I will only say, that the
+elegance of the buildings, public and private, the cleanliness of the
+streets, the shade of the poplars which border them, the public walks,
+the markets always abundantly provided with all sorts of commodities,
+the activity of its commerce, then in a flourishing condition, the vast
+number of ships of all nations which crowded the quays; all, in a word,
+conspired to make me feel the difference between this great maritime
+city and my native town, of whose steeples I had never lost sight
+before, and which was by no means at that time what it is now.
+
+New York was not then, and indeed is not at this time a fortified town;
+still there were several batteries and military works, the most
+considerable of which were seen on the _Narrows_, or channel which forms
+the principal mouth of the Hudson. The isles called _Governor's Island_,
+and _Bedloe_ or _Gibbet Island_, were also well fortified. On the first,
+situated to the west of the city and about a mile from it, there were
+barracks sufficiently capacious for several thousand soldiers, and a
+Moro, or castle, with three tiers of guns, all bomb-proof. These works
+have been strengthened during the last war.
+
+The market-places are eight in number; the most considerable is called
+_Fly-Market_.
+
+The _Park_, the _Battery_, and _Vauxhall Garden_, are the principal
+promenades. There were, in 1810, thirty-two churches, two of which were
+devoted to the catholic worship; and the population was estimated at
+ninety thousand souls, of whom ten thousand were French. It is thought
+that this population has since been augmented (1819) by some thirty
+thousand souls.
+
+During my sojourn at New York, I lodged in Brooklyn, on Long Island.
+This island is separated from the city by a sound, or narrow arm of the
+sea. There is here a pretty village, not far from which is a basin,
+where some gun-boats were hauled up, and a few war vessels were on the
+stocks. Some barracks had been constructed here, and a guard was
+maintained.
+
+Before leaving New York, it is well to observe that during our stay in
+that city, Mr. M'Kay thought it the part of prudence to have an
+interview with the minister plenipotentiary of his Britannic majesty,
+Mr. Jackson,[D] to inform him of the object of our voyage, and get his
+views in regard to the line of conduct we ought to follow in case of war
+breaking out between the two powers; intimating to him that we were all
+British subjects, and were about to trade under the American flag. After
+some moments of reflection Mr. Jackson told him, "that we were going on
+a very hazardous enterprise; that he saw our object was purely
+commercial, and that all he could promise us, was, that in case of a war
+we should be respected as British subjects and traders."
+
+[Footnote D: This gentleman was really _charge d'affaires_.]
+
+This reply appeared satisfactory, and Mr. M'Kay thought we had nothing
+to apprehend on that side.
+
+The vessel in which we were to sail was called the _Tonquin_, of about
+300 tons burden, commanded by Captain Thorn (a first-lieutenant of the
+American navy, on furlough for this purpose), with a crew of twenty-one
+men. The number of passengers was thirty-three. Here follow the names of
+both.
+
+
+PASSENGERS.
+
+               { Messrs. Alexander M'Kay   }
+               {   "     Duncan M'Dougall, }
+     PARTNERS  {   "     David Stuart,     }  all of Canada.
+               {   "     Robert Stuart,    }
+
+             { James Lewis of New York,
+             { Russel Farnham of Massachusetts,
+             { William W. Matthews of New York,
+             { Alexander Boss,    }
+             { Donald M'Gillis,   }
+     CLERKS  { Ovide de Montigny, }
+             { Francis B. Pillet, } all from Canada.
+             { Donald M'Lennan,   }
+             { William Wallace,   }
+             { Thomas McKay,      }
+             { Gabriel Franchere, }
+
+               { Oliver Roy Lapensee,    Joseph Lapierre,
+               { Ignace Lapensee,        Joseph Nadeau,
+     BOATMEN,  { Basile Lapensee,        J. B'te. Belleau,
+     ETC.      { Jacques Lafantaisie,    Antoine Belleau,
+               { Benjamin Roussel,       Louis Brusle,
+               { Michel Laframboise,     P.D. Jeremie,
+               { Giles Leclerc,          all of Canada.
+
+     Johann Koaster, ship-carpenter, a Russian,
+     George Bell, cooper, New York,
+     Job Aitken, rigger and calker, from Scotland,
+     Augustus Roussil, blacksmith, Canada,
+     Guilleaume Perreault, a boy. These last were all
+         mechanics, &c., destined for the establishment.
+
+
+CREW.
+
+     Jonathan Thorn, captain, New York State.
+     Ebenezer D. Fox, 1st mate, of Boston.
+     John M. Mumford, 2d mate, of Massachusetts.
+     James Thorn, brother of the captain, New York.
+     John Anderson, boatswain, foreigner.
+     Egbert Vanderhuff, tailor, New York.
+     John Weeks, carpenter,         "
+     Stephen Weeks, armorer,        "
+     John Coles, New York,     }
+     John Martin, a Frenchman, }  sailmakers.
+
+               { John White, New York.
+               { Adam Fisher,   "
+               { Peter Verbel,  "
+     SAILORS.  { Edward Aymes,  "
+               { Robert Hill, Albany, New York.
+               { John Adams,    "
+               { Joseph Johnson, Englishman,
+               { Charles Roberts, New York,
+     A colored man as cook,
+     A mulatto steward,
+     And three or four others whose names I have forgotten.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     Departure from New York.--Reflections of the Author.--Navigation,
+     falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel
+     comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.
+
+
+All being ready for our departure, we went on board ship, and weighed
+anchor on the 6th of September, in the morning. The wind soon fell off,
+and the first day was spent in drifting down to Staten island, where we
+came to anchor for the night. The next day we weighed anchor again; but
+there came on another dead calm, and we were forced to cast anchor near
+the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. On the 8th we weighed anchor for the third
+time, and by the help of a fresh breeze from the southwest, we succeeded
+in passing the bar; the pilot quitted us at about eleven o'clock, and
+soon after we lost sight of the coast.
+
+One must have experienced it one's self, to be able to conceive the
+melancholy which takes possession of the soul of a man of sensibility,
+at the instant that he leaves his country and the civilized world, to go
+to inhabit with strangers in wild and unknown lands. I should in vain
+endeavor to give my readers an idea, even faintly correct, of the
+painful sinking of heart that I suddenly felt, and of the sad glance
+which I involuntarily cast toward a future so much the more frightful to
+me, as it offered nothing but what was perfectly confused and uncertain.
+A new scene of life was unfolded before me, but how monotonous, and ill
+suited to diminish the dejection with which my mind was overwhelmed! For
+the first time in my life, I found myself under way upon the main sea,
+with nothing to fix my regards and arrest my attention but the frail
+machine which bore me between the abyss of waters and the immensity of
+the skies. I remained for a long time with my eyes fixed in the
+direction of that land which I no longer saw, and almost despaired of
+ever seeing again; I made serious reflections on the nature and
+consequences of the enterprise in which I had so rashly embarked; and I
+confess that if at that moment the offer had been made to release me
+from my engagement, I should have accepted the proposal with all my
+heart. It is true that the hopeless confusion and incumberment of the
+vessel's deck, the great number of strangers among whom I found myself,
+the brutal style which the captain and his subalterns used toward our
+young Canadians; all, in a word, conspired to make me augur a vexatious
+and disagreeable voyage. The sequel will show that I did not deceive
+myself in that.
+
+We perceived very soon in the S.W., which was our weather-side, a vessel
+that bore directly toward us; she made a signal that was understood by
+our captain; we hove to, and stood on her bow. It turned out to be the
+American frigate _Constitution_. We sent our boat on board of her, and
+sailed in company till toward five o'clock, when, our papers having been
+sent back to us, we separated.
+
+The wind having increased, the motion of the vessel made us sea-sick,
+those of us, I mean, who were for the first time at sea. The weather was
+fine, however; the vessel, which at first sailing was lumbered in such a
+manner that we could hardly get in or out of our berths, and scarcely
+work ship, by little and little got into order, so that we soon found
+ourselves more at ease.
+
+On the 14th we commenced to take flying fish. The 24th, we saw a great
+quantity of dolphins. We prepared lines and took two of the latter,
+which we cooked. The flesh of this fish appeared to me excellent.
+
+After leaving New York, till the 4th of October, we headed southeast. On
+that day we struck the trade winds, and bore S.S.E.; being, according to
+our observations, in latitude 17 deg. 43" and longitude 22 deg. 39".
+
+On the 5th, in the morning, we came in sight of the Cape-Verd islands,
+bearing W.N.W., and distant about eight or nine miles, having the coast
+of Africa to the E.S.E. We should have been very glad to touch at these
+islands to take in water; but as our vessel was an American bottom, and
+had on board a number of British subjects, our captain did not think fit
+to expose himself to meet the English ships-of-war cruising on these
+coasts, who certainly would not have failed to make a strict search, and
+to take from us the best part of our crew; which would infallibly have
+proved disastrous to the object for which we had shipped them.
+
+Speaking of water, I may mention that the rule was to serve it out in
+rations of a quart a day; but that we were now reduced to a pint and a
+half. For the rest, our fare consisted of fourteen ounces of hard bread,
+a pound and a quarter of salt beef or one of pork, per day, and half a
+pint of souchong tea, with sugar, per man. The pork and beef were served
+alternately: rice and beans, each once a week; corn-meal pudding with
+molasses, ditto; on Sundays the steerage passengers were allowed a
+bottle of Teneriffe wine. All except the four partners, Mr. Lewis,
+acting as captain's clerk, and Mr. T. M'Kay, were in the steerage; the
+cabin containing but six berths, besides the captain's and first-mate's
+state-rooms.
+
+As long as we were near the coast of Africa, we had light and variable
+winds, and extremely hot weather; on the 8th, we had a dead calm, and
+saw several sharks round the vessel; we took one which we ate. I found
+the taste to resemble sturgeon. We experienced on that day an excessive
+heat, the mercury being at 94 deg. of Fahrenheit. From the 8th to the 11th
+we had on board a canary bird, which we treated with the greatest care
+and kindness, but which nevertheless quitted us, probably for a certain
+death.
+
+The nearer we approached to the equator the more we perceived the heat
+to increase: on the 16th, in latitude 6 deg., longitude 22 deg. west from
+Greenwich, the mercury stood at 108 deg.. We discovered on that day a sail
+bearing down upon us. The next morning she reappeared, and approached
+within gun-shot. She was a large brig, carrying about twenty guns: we
+sailed in company all day by a good breeze, all sail spread; but toward
+evening she dropped astern and altered her course to the S.S.E.
+
+On the 18th, at daybreak, the watch alarmed us by announcing that the
+same brig which had followed us the day before, was under our lee, a
+cable's length off, and seemed desirous of knowing who we were, without
+showing her own colors. Our captain appeared to be in some alarm; and
+admitting that she was a better sailer than we, he called all the
+passengers and crew on deck, the drum beat to quarters, and we feigned
+to make preparations for combat.
+
+It is well to observe that our vessel mounted ten pieces of cannon, and
+was pierced for twenty; the forward port-holes were adorned with sham
+guns. Whether it was our formidable appearance or no, at about ten A.M.
+the stranger again changed her course, and we soon lost sight of her
+entirely.
+
+Nothing further remarkable occurred to us till the 22d, when we passed
+the line in longitude 25 deg. 9". According to an ancient custom the crew
+baptized those of their number who had never before crossed the
+equator; it was a holyday for them on board. About two o'clock in the
+afternoon we perceived a sail in the S.S.W. We were not a little
+alarmed, believing that it was the same brig which we had seen some days
+before; for it was lying to, as if awaiting our approach. We soon drew
+near, and to our great joy discovered that she was a Portuguese; we
+hailed her, and learned that she came from some part of South America,
+and was bound to Pernambuco, on the coasts of Brazil. Very soon after we
+began to see what navigators call the _Clouds of Magellan_: they are
+three little white spots that one perceives in the sky almost as soon as
+one passes the equator: they were situated in the S.S.W.
+
+The 1st November, we began to see great numbers of aquatic birds. Toward
+three o'clock P.M., we discovered a sail on our larboard, but did not
+approach sufficiently near to speak her. The 3d, we saw two more sails,
+making to the S.E. We passed the tropic of Capricorn on the 4th, with a
+fine breeze, and in longitude 33 deg. 27". We lost the trade-winds, and as
+we advanced south the weather became cold and rainy. The 11th, we had a
+calm, although the swell was heavy. We saw several turtles, and the
+captain having sent out the small boat, we captured two of them. During
+the night of the 11th and 12th, the wind changed to the N.E., and raised
+a terrible tempest, in which the gale, the rain, the lightning, and
+thunder, seemed to have sworn our destruction; the sea appeared all
+a-fire, while our little vessel was the sport of winds and waves. We
+kept the hatches closed, which did not prevent us from passing very
+uncomfortable nights while the storm lasted; for the great heats that we
+had experienced between the tropics, had so opened the seams of the deck
+that every time the waves passed over, the water rushed down in
+quantities upon our hammocks. The 14th, the wind shifted to the S.S.W.,
+which compelled us to beat to windward. During the night we were struck
+by a tremendous sea; the helm was seized beyond control, and the man at
+the wheel was thrown from one side of the ship to the other, breaking
+two of his ribs, which confined him to his berth for a week.
+
+In latitude 35 deg. 19", longitude 40 deg., the sea appeared to be covered with
+marine plants, and the change that we observed in the color of the
+water, as well as the immense number of gulls and other aquatic birds
+that we saw, proved to us that we were not far from the mouth of the
+_Rio de la Plata_. The wind continued to blow furiously till the 21st,
+when it subsided a little, and the weather cleared up. On the 25th,
+being in the 46th degree, and 30 minutes of latitude, we saw a penguin.
+
+We began to feel sensibly the want of water: since passing the tropic of
+Capricorn the daily allowance had been always diminishing, till we were
+reduced to three gills a day, a slender modicum considering that we had
+only salt provisions. We had indeed a still, which we used to render the
+sea-water drinkable; but we distilled merely what sufficed for the daily
+use of the kitchen, as to do more would have required a great quantity
+of wood or coal. As we were not more than one hundred and fifty leagues
+from the Falkland isles, we determined to put in there and endeavor to
+replenish our casks, and the captain caused the anchors to be got ready.
+
+We had contrary winds from the 27th of November to the 3d December. On
+the evening of that day, we heard one of the officers, who was at the
+mast head, cry "Land! Land!" Nevertheless, the night coming on, and the
+barren rocks which we had before us being little elevated above the
+ocean, we hove to.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Arrival at the Falkland Isles.--Landing.--Perilous Situation of the
+     Author and some of his Companions.--Portrait of Captain
+     Thorn.--Cape Horn.--Navigation to the Sandwich Islands.
+
+
+On the 4th (Dec.) in the morning, I was not the last to mount on deck,
+to feast my eyes with the sight of land; for it is only those who have
+been three or four months at sea, who know how to appreciate the
+pleasure which one then feels even at sight of such barren and bristling
+rocks as form the Falkland Isles. We drew near these rocks very soon,
+and entered between two of the islands, where we anchored on a good
+ground. The first mate being sent ashore to look for water, several of
+our gentlemen accompanied him. They returned in the evening with the
+disappointing intelligence that they had not been able to find fresh
+water. They brought us, to compensate for this, a number of wild geese
+and two seals.
+
+The weather appearing to threaten, we weighed anchor and put out to sea.
+The night was tempestuous, and in the morning of the 5th we had lost
+sight of the first islands. The wind blowing off land, it was necessary
+to beat up all that day; in the evening we found ourselves sufficiently
+near the shore, and hove to for the night. The 6th brought us a clear
+sky, and with a fresh breeze we succeeded in gaining a good anchorage,
+which we took to be Port Egmont, and where we found good water.
+
+On the 7th, we sent ashore the water casks, as well as the cooper to
+superintend filling them, and the blacksmiths who were occupied in some
+repairs required by the ship. For our part, having erected a tent near
+the springs, we passed the time while they were taking in water, in
+coursing over the isles: we had a boat for our accommodation, and killed
+every day a great many wild geese and ducks. These birds differ in
+plumage from those which are seen in Canada. We also killed a great
+many seals. These animals ordinarily keep upon the rocks. We also saw
+several foxes of the species called _Virginia_ fox: they were shy and
+yet fierce, barking like dogs and then flying precipitately. Penguins
+are also numerous on the Falkland Isles. These birds have a fine
+plumage, and resemble the loon: but they do not fly, having only little
+stumps of wings which they use to help themselves in waddling along. The
+rocks were covered with them. It being their sitting season we found
+them on their nests, from which they would not stir. They are not wild
+or timid: far from flying at our approach, they attacked us with their
+bill, which is very sharp, and with their short wings. The flesh of the
+penguin is black and leathery, with a strong fishy taste, and one must
+be very hungry to make up one's mind to eat it. We got a great quantity
+of eggs by dislodging them from their nests.
+
+As the French and English had both attempted to form establishments on
+these rocks, we endeavored to find some vestige of them; the tracks
+which we met everywhere made us hope to find goats also: but all our
+researches were vain: all that we discovered was an old fishing cabin,
+constructed of whale bone, and some seal-skin moccasins; for these rocks
+offer not a single tree to the view, and are frequented solely by the
+vessels which pursue the whale fishery in the southern seas. We found,
+however, two head-boards with inscriptions in English, marking the spot
+where two men had been interred: as the letters were nearly obliterated,
+we carved new ones on fresh pieces of board procured from the ship. This
+pious attention to two dead men nearly proved fatal to a greater number
+of the living; for all the casks having been filled and sent on board,
+the captain gave orders to re-embark, and without troubling himself to
+inquire if this order had been executed or not, caused the anchor to be
+weighed on the morning of the 11th, while I and some of my companions
+were engaged in erecting the inscriptions of which I have spoken, others
+were cutting grass for the hogs, and Messrs M'Dougall and D. Stuart had
+gone to the south side of the isle to look for game. The roaring of the
+sea against the rock-bound shore prevented them from hearing the gun,
+and they did not rejoin us till the vessel was already at sea. We then
+lost no time, but pushed off, being eight in number, with our little
+boat, only twenty feet keel. We rowed with all our might, but gained
+nothing upon the vessel. We were losing sight of the islands at last,
+and our case seemed desperate. While we paused, and were debating what
+course to pursue, as we had no compass, we observed the ship tacking and
+standing toward us. In fine after rowing for three hours and a half, in
+an excited state of feeling not easily described, we succeeded in
+regaining the vessel, and were taken on board at about three o'clock
+P.M.
+
+Having related this trait of malice on the part of our captain, I shall
+be permitted to make some remarks on his character. Jonathan Thorn was
+brought up in the naval service of his country, and had distinguished
+himself in a battle fought between the Americans and the Turks at
+Tripoli, some years before: he held the rank of first lieutenant. He
+was a strict disciplinarian, of a quick and passionate temper,
+accustomed to exact obedience, considering nothing but duty, and giving
+himself no trouble about the murmurs of his crew, taking counsel of
+nobody, and following Mr. Astor's instructions to the letter. Such was
+the man who had been selected to command our ship. His haughty manners,
+his rough and overbearing disposition, had lost him the affection of
+most of the crew and of all the passengers: he knew it, and in
+consequence sought every opportunity to mortify us. It is true that the
+passengers had some reason to reproach themselves; they were not free
+from blame; but he had been the aggressor; and nothing could excuse the
+act of cruelty and barbarity of which he was guilty, in intending to
+leave us upon those barren rocks of the Falkland isles, where we must
+inevitably have perished. This lot was reserved for us, but for the bold
+interference of Mr. B. Stuart, whose uncle was of our party, and who,
+seeing that the captain, far from waiting for us, coolly continued his
+course, threatened to blow his brains out unless he hove to and took us
+on board.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
+_Boat and five passengers pulling after Ship Tonquin._]
+
+We pursued our course, bearing S.S.W., and on the 14th, in latitude 54 deg.
+1', longitude 64 deg. 18', we found bottom at sixty-five fathoms, and saw a
+sail to the south. On the 15th, in the morning, we discovered before us
+the high mountains of _Terra del fuego_, which we continued to see till
+evening: the weather then thickened, and we lost sight of them. We
+encountered a furious storm which drove us to the 56th degree and 18' of
+latitude. On the 18th, we were only fifteen leagues from Cape Horn. A
+dead calm followed, but the current carried us within sight of the cape,
+five or six leagues distant. This cape, which forms the southern
+extremity of the American continent, has always been an object of terror
+to the navigators who have to pass from one sea to the other; several of
+whom to avoid doubling it, have exposed themselves to the long and
+dangerous passage of the straits of Magellan, especially when about
+entering the Pacific ocean. When we saw ourselves under the stupendous
+rocks of the cape, we felt no other desire but to get away from them as
+soon as possible, so little agreeable were those rocks to the view, even
+in the case of people who had been some months at sea! And by the help
+of a land breeze we succeeded in gaining an offing. While becalmed here,
+we measured the velocity of the current setting east, which we found to
+be about three miles an hour.
+
+The wind soon changed again to the S.S.W., and blew a gale. We had to
+beat. We passed in sight of the islands of Diego Ramirez, and saw a
+large schooner under their lee. The distance that we had run from New
+York, was about 9,165 miles. We had frightful weather till the 24th,
+when we found ourselves in 58 deg. 16' of south latitude. Although it was
+the height of summer in that hemisphere, and the days as long as they
+are at Quebec on the 21st of June (we could read on deck at midnight
+without artificial light), the cold was nevertheless very great and the
+air very humid: the mercury for several days was but fourteen degrees
+above freezing point, by Fahrenheit's thermometer. If such is the
+temperature in these latitudes at the end of December, corresponding to
+our June, what must it be in the shortest days of the year, and where
+can the Patagonians then take refuge, and the inhabitants of the islands
+so improperly named the Land of Fire!
+
+The wind, which till the 24th had been contrary, hauled round to the
+south, and we ran westward. The next day being Christmas, we had the
+satisfaction to learn by our noon-day observation that we had weathered
+the cape, and were, consequently, now in the Pacific ocean. Up to that
+date we had but one man attacked with scurvy, a malady to which those
+who make long voyages are subject, and which is occasioned by the
+constant use of salt provisions, by the humidity of the vessel, and the
+inaction.
+
+From the 25th of December till the 1st of January, we were favored with
+a fair wind and ran eighteen degrees to the north in that short space of
+time. Though cold yet, the weather was nevertheless very agreeable. On
+the 17th, in latitude 10 deg. S., and longitude 110 deg. 50' W., we took
+several _bonitas_, an excellent fish. We passed the equator on the 23d,
+in 128 deg. 14' of west longitude. A great many porpoises came round the
+vessel. On the 25th arose a tempest which lasted till the 28th. The wind
+then shifted to the E.S.E. and carried us two hundred and twenty-four
+miles on our course in twenty-four hours. Then we had several days of
+contrary winds; on the 8th of February it hauled to the S.E., and on the
+11th we saw the peak of a mountain covered with snow, which the first
+mate, who was familiar with these seas, told me was the summit of
+_Mona-Roah_, a high mountain on the island of _Ohehy_, one of those
+which the circumnavigator Cook named the Sandwich Isles, and where he
+met his death in 1779. We headed to the land all day, and although we
+made eight or nine knots an hour, it was not till evening that we were
+near enough to distinguish the huts of the islanders: which is
+sufficient to prove the prodigious elevation of _Mona Roah_ above the
+level of the sea.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Accident.--View of the Coast.--Attempted Visit of the
+     Natives.--Their Industry.--Bay of Karaka-koua.--Landing on the
+     Island.--John Young, Governor of Owahee.
+
+
+We were ranging along the coast with the aid of a fine breeze, when the
+boy Perrault, who had mounted the fore-rigging to enjoy the scenery,
+lost his hold, and being to windward where the shrouds were taut,
+rebounded from them like a ball some twenty feet from the ship's side
+into the ocean. We perceived his fall and threw over to him chairs,
+barrels, benches, hen-coops, in a word everything we could lay hands on;
+then the captain gave the orders to heave to; in the twinkling of an eye
+the lashings of one of the quarter-boats were cut apart, the boat
+lowered and manned: by this time the boy was considerably a-stern. He
+would have been lost undoubtedly but for a wide pair of canvass
+overalls full of tar and grease, which operated like a life-preserver.
+His head, however, was under when he was picked up, and he was brought
+on board lifeless, about a quarter of an hour after he fell into the
+sea. We succeeded, notwithstanding, in a short time, in bringing him to,
+and in a few hours he was able to run upon the deck.
+
+The coast of the island, viewed from the sea, offers the most
+picturesque _coup d'oeil_ and the loveliest prospect; from the beach to
+the mountains the land rises amphitheatrically, all along which is a
+border of lower country covered with cocoa-trees and bananas, through
+the thick foliage whereof you perceive the huts of the islanders; the
+valleys which divide the hills that lie beyond appear well cultivated,
+and the mountains themselves, though extremely high, are covered with
+wood to their summits, except those few peaks which glitter with
+perpetual snow.
+
+As we ran along the coast, some canoes left the beach and came
+alongside, with vegetables and cocoa-nuts; but as we wished to profit
+by the breeze to gain the anchorage, we did not think fit to stop. We
+coasted along during a part of the night; but a calm came on which
+lasted till the morrow. As we were opposite the bay of Karaka-koua, the
+natives came out again, in greater numbers, bringing us cabbages, yams,
+_taro_, bananas, bread-fruit, water-melons, poultry, &c., for which we
+traded in the way of exchange. Toward evening, by the aid of a sea
+breeze that rose as day declined, we got inside the harbor where we
+anchored on a coral bottom in fourteen fathoms water.
+
+The next day the islanders visited the vessel in great numbers all day
+long, bringing, as on the day before, fruits, vegetables, and some pigs,
+in exchange for which we gave them glass beads, iron rings, needles,
+cotton cloth, &c.
+
+Some of our gentlemen went ashore and were astonished to find a native
+occupied in building a small sloop of about thirty tons: the tools of
+which he made use consisted of a half worn-out axe, an adze, about
+two-inch blade, made out of a paring chisel, a saw, and an iron rod
+which he heated red hot and made it serve the purpose of an auger. It
+required no little patience and dexterity to achieve anything with such
+instruments: he was apparently not deficient in these qualities, for his
+work was tolerably well advanced. Our people took him on board with
+them, and we supplied him with suitable tools, for which he appeared
+extremely grateful.
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, while the ship's carpenter was engaged in
+replacing one of the cat-heads, two composition sheaves fell into the
+sea; as we had no others on board, the captain proposed to the
+islanders, who are excellent swimmers, to dive for them, promising a
+reward; and immediately two offered themselves. They plunged several
+times, and each time brought up shells as a proof that they had been to
+the bottom. We had the curiosity to hold our watches while they dove,
+and were astonished to find that they remained four minutes under the
+water. That exertion appeared to me, however, to fatigue them a great
+deal, to such a degree that the blood streamed from their nostrils and
+ears. At last one of them brought up the sheaves and received the
+promised recompense, which consisted of four yards of cotton.
+
+Karaka-koua bay where we lay, may be three quarters of a mile deep, and
+a mile and a half wide at the entrance: the latter is formed by two low
+points of rock which appear to have run down from the mountains in the
+form of lava, after a volcanic eruption. On each point is situated a
+village of moderate size; that is to say, a small group of the low huts
+of the islanders. The bottom of the bay terminates in a bold
+_escarpment_ of rock, some four hundred feet high, on the top of which
+is seen a solitary cocoa-tree.
+
+On the evening of the 14th, I went ashore with some other passengers,
+and we landed at the group of cabins on the western point, of those
+which I have described. The inhabitants entertained us with a dance
+executed by nineteen young women and one man, all singing together, and
+in pretty good time. An old man showed us the spot where Captain Cook
+was killed, on the 14th of February, 1779, with the cocoa-nut trees
+pierced by the balls from the boats which the unfortunate navigator
+commanded. This old man, whether it were feigned or real sensibility,
+seemed extremely affected and even shed tears, in showing us these
+objects. As for me, I could not help finding it a little singular to be
+thus, by mere chance, upon this spot, on the 14th of February, 1811;
+that is to say, thirty-two years after, on the anniversary of the
+catastrophe which has rendered it for ever celebrated. I drew no
+sinister augury from the coincidence, however, and returned to the ship
+with my companions as gay as I left it. When I say with my companions, I
+ought to except the boatswain, John Anderson, who, having had several
+altercations with the captain on the passage, now deserted the ship,
+preferring to live with the natives rather than obey any longer so
+uncourteous a superior. A sailor also deserted; but the islanders
+brought him back, at the request of the captain. They offered to bring
+back Anderson, but the captain preferred leaving him behind.
+
+We found no good water near Karaka-koua bay: what the natives brought us
+in gourds was brackish. We were also in great want of fresh meat, but
+could not obtain it: the king of these islands having expressly
+forbidden his subjects to supply any to the vessels which touched there.
+One of the chiefs sent a canoe to Tohehigh bay, to get from the governor
+of the island, who resided there, permission to sell us some pigs. The
+messengers returned the next day, and brought us a letter, in which the
+governor ordered us to proceed without delay to the isle of Wahoo, where
+the king lives; assuring us that we should there find good water and
+everything else we needed.
+
+We got under way on the 16th and with a light wind coasted the island as
+far as Tohehigh bay. The wind then dropping away entirely, the captain,
+accompanied by Messrs. M'Kay and M'Dougall, went ashore, to pay a visit
+to the governor aforesaid. He was not a native, but a Scotchman named
+John Young, who came hither some years after the death of Captain Cook.
+This man had married a native woman, and had so gained the friendship
+and confidence of the king, as to be raised to the rank of chief and
+after the conquest of Wahoo by King Tamehameha, was made governor of
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) the most considerable of the Sandwich Islands, both by
+its extent and population. His excellency explained to our gentlemen the
+reason why the king had interdicted the trade in hogs to the inhabitants
+of all the islands: this reason being that his majesty wished to reserve
+to himself the monopoly of that branch of commerce, for the augmentation
+of his royal revenue by its exclusive profits. The governor also
+informed them that no rain had fallen on the south part of Hawaii for
+three years; which explained why we found so little fresh water: he
+added that the north part of the island was more fertile than the south,
+where we were: but that there was no good anchorage: that part of the
+coast being defended by sunken rocks which form heavy breakers. In fine,
+the governor dismissed our gentlemen with a present of four fine fat
+hogs; and we, in return, sent him some tea, coffee, and chocolate, and
+a keg of Madeira wine.
+
+The night was nearly a perfect calm, and on the 17th we found ourselves
+abreast of _Mona-Wororayea_ a snow-capped mountain, like _Mona-Roah_,
+but which appeared to me less lofty than the latter. A number of
+islanders came to visit us as before, with some objects of curiosity,
+and some small fresh fish. The wind rising on the 18th, we soon passed
+the western extremity of Hawaii, and sailed by Mowhee and Tahooraha, two
+more islands of this group, and said to be, like the rest, thickly
+inhabited. The first presents a highly picturesque aspect, being
+composed of hills rising in the shape of a sugar loaf and completely
+covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees.
+
+At last, on the 21st, we approached Wahoo, and came to anchor opposite
+the bay of _Ohetity_, outside the bar, at a distance of some two miles
+from the land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Bay of Ohetity.--Tamehameha, King of the Islands.--His Visit to the
+     Ship.--His Capital.--His Naval Force.--His Authority.--Productions
+     of the Country.--Manners and Customs.--Reflections.
+
+
+There is no good anchorage in the bay of Ohetity, inside the bar or
+coral reef: the holding-ground is bad: so that, in case of a storm, the
+safety of the ship would have been endangered. Moreover, with a contrary
+wind, it would have been difficult to get out of the inner harbor; for
+which reasons, our captain preferred to remain in the road. For the
+rest, the country surrounding the bay is even more lovely in aspect than
+that of Karaka-koua; the mountains rise to a less elevation in the
+back-ground, and the soil has an appearance of greater fertility.
+
+_Tamehameha_, whom all the Sandwich Isles obeyed when we were there in
+1811, was neither the son nor the relative of Tierroboo, who reigned in
+Owhyhee (Hawaii) in 1779, when Captain Cook and some of his people were
+massacred. He was, at that date, but a chief of moderate power; but,
+being skilful, intriguing, and full of ambition, he succeeded in gaining
+a numerous party, and finally possessed himself of the sovereignty. As
+soon as he saw himself master of Owhyhee, his native island, he
+meditated the conquest of the leeward islands, and in a few years he
+accomplished it. He even passed into _Atoudy_, the most remote of all,
+and vanquished the ruler of it, but contented himself with imposing on
+him an annual tribute. He had fixed his residence at Wahoo, because of
+all the Sandwich Isles it was the most fertile, the most picturesque--in
+a word, the most worthy of the residence of the sovereign.
+
+As soon as we arrived, we were visited by a canoe manned by three white
+men, Davis and Wadsworth, Americans, and Manini, a Spaniard. The last
+offered to be our interpreter during our stay; which was agreed to.
+Tamehameha presently sent to us his prime-minister, _Kraimoku_, to whom
+the Americans have given the name of _Pitt_, on account of his skill in
+the affairs of government. Our captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, went ashore immediately, to be presented to Tamehameha. About
+four o'clock, P.M., we saw them returning, accompanied by a double
+pirogue conveying the king and his suite. We ran up our colors, and
+received his majesty with a salute of four guns.
+
+Tamehameha was above the middle height, well made, robust and inclined
+to corpulency, and had a majestic carriage. He appeared to me from fifty
+to sixty years old. He was clothed in the European style, and wore a
+sword. He walked a long time on the deck, asking explanations in regard
+to those things which he had not seen on other vessels, and which were
+found on ours. A thing which appeared to surprise him, was to see that
+we could render the water of the sea fresh, by means of the still
+attached to our caboose; he could not imagine how that could be done.
+We invited him into the cabin, and, having regaled him with some glasses
+of wine, began to talk of business matters: we offered him merchandise
+in exchange for hogs, but were not able to conclude the bargain that
+day. His majesty re-embarked in his double pirogue, at about six o'clock
+in the evening. It was manned by twenty-four men. A great chest,
+containing firearms, was lashed over the centre of the two canoes
+forming the pirogue; and it was there that Tamehameha sat, with his
+prime-minister at his side.
+
+In the morning, on the 22d, we sent our water-casks ashore and filled
+them with excellent water. At about noon his sable majesty paid us
+another visit, accompanied by his three wives and his favorite minister.
+These females were of an extraordinary corpulence, and of unmeasured
+size. They were dressed in the fashion of the country, having nothing
+but a piece of _tapa_, or bark-cloth, about two yards long, passed round
+the hips and falling to the knees. We resumed the negotiations of the
+day before, and were more successful. I remarked that when the bargain
+was concluded, he insisted with great pertinacity that part of the
+payment should be in Spanish dollars. We asked the reason, and he made
+answer that he wished to buy a frigate of his brother, King George,
+meaning the king of England. The bargain concluded, we prayed his
+majesty and his suite to dine with us; they consented, and toward
+evening retired, apparently well satisfied with their visit and our
+reception of them.
+
+In the meantime, the natives surrounded the ship in great numbers, with
+hundreds of canoes, offering us their goods, in the shape of eatables
+and the rude manufactures of the island, in exchange for merchandise;
+but, as they had also brought intoxicating liquors in gourds, some of
+the crew got drunk; the captain was, consequently, obliged to suspend
+the trade, and forbade any one to traffic with the islanders, except
+through the first-mate, who was intrusted with that business.
+
+I landed on the 22d, with Messrs. Pillet and M'Gillis: we passed the
+night ashore, spending that day and the next morning in rambling over
+the environs of the bay, followed by a crowd of men, women, and
+children.
+
+Ohetity, where Tamehameha resides, and which, consequently, may be
+regarded as the capital of his kingdom, is--or at least was at that
+time--a moderate-sized city, or rather a large village. Besides the
+private houses, of which there were perhaps two hundred, constructed of
+poles planted in the ground and covered over with matting, there were
+the royal palace, which was not magnificent by any means: a public
+store, of two stories, one of stone and the other of wood; two _morais_,
+or idol temples, and a wharf. At the latter we found an old vessel, the
+_Lady Bird_, which some American navigators had given in exchange for a
+schooner; it was the only large vessel which King Tamehameha possessed;
+and, besides, was worth nothing. As for schooners he had forty of them,
+of from twenty to thirty tons burthen: these vessels served to transport
+the tributes in kind paid by his vassals in the other islands. Before
+the Europeans arrived among these savages, the latter had no means of
+communication between one isle and another, but their canoes, and as
+some of the islands are not in sight of each other, these voyages must
+have been dangerous. Near the palace I found an Indian from Bombay,
+occupied in making a twelve inch cable, for the use of the ship which I
+have described.
+
+Tamehameha kept constantly round his house a guard of twenty-four men.
+These soldiers wore, by way of uniform, a long blue coat with yellow;
+and each was armed with a musket. In front of the house, on an open
+square, were placed fourteen four-pounders, mounted on their carriages.
+
+The king was absolute, and judged in person the differences between his
+subjects. We had an opportunity of witnessing a proof of it, the day
+after our landing. A Portuguese having had a quarrel with a native, who
+was intoxicated, struck him: immediately the friends of the latter, who
+had been the aggressor after all, gathered in a crowd to beat down the
+poor foreigner with stones; he fled as fast as he could to the house of
+the king, followed by a mob of enraged natives, who nevertheless stopped
+at some distance from the guards, while the Portuguese, all breathless,
+crouched in a corner. We were on the esplanade in front of the palace
+royal, and curiosity to see the trial led us into the presence of his
+majesty, who having caused the quarrel to be explained to him, and heard
+the witnesses on both sides, condemned the native to work four days in
+the garden of the Portuguese and to give him a hog. A young Frenchman
+from Bordeaux, preceptor of the king's sons, whom he taught to read, and
+who understood the language, acted as interpreter to the Portuguese, and
+explained to us the sentence. I can not say whether our presence
+influenced the decision, or whether, under other circumstances, the
+Portuguese would have been less favorably treated. We were given to
+understand that Tamehameha was pleased to see whites establish
+themselves in his dominions, but that he esteemed only people with some
+useful trade, and despised idlers, and especially drunkards. We saw at
+Wahoo about thirty of these white inhabitants, for the most part, people
+of no character, and who had remained on the islands either from
+indolence, or from drunkenness and licentiousness. Some had taken wives
+in the country, in which case the king gave them a portion of land to
+cultivate for themselves. But two of the worst sort had found means to
+procure a small still, wherewith they manufactured rum and supplied it
+to the natives.
+
+The first navigators found only four sorts of quadrupeds on the Sandwich
+islands:--dogs, swine, lizards, and rats. Since then sheep have been
+carried there, goats, horned cattle, and even horses, and these animals
+have multiplied.
+
+The chief vegetable productions of these isles are the sugar cane, the
+bread-fruit tree, the banana, the water-melon, the musk-melon, the
+_taro_, the _ava_, the _pandanus_, the mulberry, &c. The bread-fruit
+tree is about the size of a large apple-tree; the fruit resembles an
+apple and is about twelve or fourteen inches in circumference; the rind
+is thick and rough like a melon: when cut transversely it is found to
+be full of sacs, like the inside of an orange; the pulp has the
+consistence of water-melon, and is cooked before it is eaten. We saw
+orchards of bread-fruit trees and bananas, and fields of sugar-cane,
+back of Ohetity.
+
+The _taro_ grows in low situations, and demands a great deal of care. It
+is not unlike a white turnip,[E] and as it constitutes the principal
+food of the natives, it is not to be wondered at that they bestow so
+much attention on its culture. Wherever a spring of pure water is found
+issuing out of the side of a hill, the gardener marks out on the
+declivity the size of the field he intends to plant. The ground is
+levelled and surrounded with a mud or stone wall, not exceeding eighteen
+inches in height, and having a flood gate above and below. Into this
+enclosure the water of the spring is conducted, or is suffered to escape
+from it, according to the dryness of the season. When the root has
+acquired a sufficient size it is pulled up for immediate use. This
+esculent is very bad to eat raw, but boiled it is better than the yam.
+Cut in slices, dried, pounded and reduced to a farina, it forms with
+bread fruit the principal food of the natives. Sometimes they boil it to
+the consistence of porridge, which they put into gourds and allow to
+ferment; it will then keep a long time. They also use to mix with it,
+fish, which they commonly eat raw with the addition of a little salt,
+obtained by evaporation.
+
+[Footnote E: Bougainville calls it "Calf-foot root."]
+
+The _ava_ is a plant more injurious than useful to the inhabitants of
+these isles; since they only make use of it to obtain a dangerous and
+intoxicating drink, which they also call _ava_. The mode of preparing
+this beverage is as follows: they chew the root, and spit out the result
+into a basin; the juice thus expressed is exposed to the sun to undergo
+fermentation; after which they decant it into a gourd; it is then fit
+for use, and they drink it on occasions to intoxication. The too
+frequent use of this disgusting liquor causes loss of sight, and a sort
+of leprosy, which can only be cured by abstaining from it, and by
+bathing frequently in the water of the sea. This leprosy turns their
+skin white: we saw several of the lepers, who were also blind, or nearly
+so. The natives are also fond of smoking: the tobacco grows in the
+islands, but I believe it has been introduced from abroad. The bark of
+the mulberry furnishes the cloth worn by both sexes; of the leaves of
+the _pandanus_ they make mats. They have also a kind of wax-nut, about
+the size of a dried plum of which they make candles by running a stick
+through several of them. Lighted at one end, they burn like a wax taper,
+and are the only light they use in their huts at night.
+
+The men are generally well made and tall: they wear for their entire
+clothing what they call a _maro_; it is a piece of figured or white
+tapa, two yards long and a foot wide, which they pass round the loins
+and between the legs, tying the ends in a knot over the left hip. At
+first sight I thought they were painted red, but soon perceived that it
+was the natural _color_ of their skin. The women wear a petticoat of the
+same stuff as the _maro_, but wider and longer, without, however,
+reaching below the knees. They have sufficiently regular features, and
+but for the color, may pass, generally speaking, for handsome women.
+Some to heighten their charms, dye their black hair (cut short for the
+purpose) with quick lime, forming round the head a strip of pure white,
+which disfigures them monstrously. Others among the young wear a more
+becoming garland of flowers. For other traits, they are very lascivious,
+and far from observing a modest reserve, especially toward strangers. In
+regard to articles of mere ornament, I was told that they were not the
+same in all the island. I did not see them, either, clothed in their war
+dresses, or habits of ceremony. But I had an opportunity to see them
+paint or print their _tapa_, or bark cloth, an occupation in which they
+employ a great deal of care and patience. The pigments they use are
+derived from vegetable juices, prepared with the oil of the cocoa-nut.
+Their pencils are little reeds or canes of bamboo, at the extremity of
+which they carve out divers sorts of flowers. First they tinge the cloth
+they mean to print, yellow, green, or some other color which forms the
+ground: then they draw upon it perfectly straight lines, without any
+other guide but the eye; lastly they dip the ends of the bamboo sticks
+in paint of a different tint from the ground, and apply them between the
+dark or bright bars thus formed. This cloth resembles a good deal our
+calicoes and printed cottons; the oils with which it is impregnated
+renders it impervious to water. It is said that the natives of _Atowy_
+excel all the other islanders in the art of painting the tapa.
+
+The Sandwich-islanders live in villages of one or two hundred houses
+arranged without symmetry, or rather grouped together in complete
+defiance of it. These houses are constructed (as I have before said) of
+posts driven in the ground, covered with long dry grass, and walled with
+matting; the thatched roof gives them a sort of resemblance to our
+Canadian barns or granges. The length of each house varies according to
+the number of the family which occupies it: they are not smoky like the
+wigwams of our Indians, the fireplace being always outside in the open
+air, where all the cooking is performed. Hence their dwellings are very
+clean and neat inside.
+
+Their pirogues or canoes are extremely light and neat: those which are
+single have an outrigger, consisting of two curved pieces of timber
+lashed across the bows, and touching the water at the distance of five
+or six feet from the side; another piece, turned up at each extremity,
+is tied to the end and drags in the water, on which it acts like a
+skating iron on the ice, and by its weight keeps the canoe in
+equilibrium: without that contrivance they would infallibly upset. Their
+paddles are long, with a very broad blade. All these canoes carry a
+lateen, or sprit-sail, which is made of a mat of grass or leaves,
+extremely well woven.
+
+I did not remain long enough with these people to acquire very extensive
+and exact notions of their religion: I know that they recognise a
+Supreme Being, whom they call _Etoway_, and a number of inferior
+divinities. Each village has one or more _morais_. These morais are
+enclosures which served for cemeteries; in the middle is a temple,
+where the priests alone have a right to enter: they contain several
+idols of wood, rudely sculptured. At the feet of these images are
+deposited, and left to putrify, the offerings of the people, consisting
+of dogs, pigs, fowls, vegetables, &c. The respect of these savages for
+their priests extends almost to adoration; they regard their persons as
+sacred, and feel the greatest scruple in touching the objects, or going
+near the places, which they have declared _taboo_ or forbidden. The
+_taboo_ has often been useful to European navigators, by freeing them
+from the importunities of the crowd.
+
+In our rambles we met groups playing at different games. That of
+draughts appeared the most common. The checker-board is very simple, the
+squares being marked on the ground with a sharp stick: the men are
+merely shells or pebbles. The game was different from that played in
+civilized countries, so that we could not understand it.
+
+Although nature has done almost everything for the inhabitants of the
+Sandwich islands--though they enjoy a perpetual spring, a clear sky, a
+salubrious climate, and scarcely any labor is required to produce the
+necessaries of life--they can not be regarded as generally happy: the
+artisans and producers, whom they call _Tootoos_, are nearly in the same
+situation as the Helots among the Lacedemonians, condemned to labor
+almost incessantly for their lord or _Eris_, without hope of bettering
+their condition, and even restricted in the choice of their daily
+food.[F] How has it happened that among a people yet barbarous, where
+knowledge is nearly equally distributed, the class which is beyond
+comparison the most numerous has voluntarily submitted to such a
+humiliating and oppressive yoke? The Tartars, though infinitely less
+numerous than the Chinese, have subjected them, because the former were
+warlike and the latter were not. The same thing has happened, no doubt,
+at remote periods, in Poland, and other regions of Europe and Asia. If
+moral causes are joined to physical ones, the superiority of one caste
+and the inferiority of the other will be still more marked; it is known
+that the natives of Hispaniola, when they saw the Spaniards arrive on
+their coast, in vessels of an astonishing size to their apprehensions,
+and heard them imitate the thunder with their cannon, took them for
+beings of a superior nature to their own. Supposing that this island had
+been extremely remote from every other country, and that the Spaniards,
+after conquering it, had held no further communication with any
+civilized land, at the end of a century or two the language and the
+manners would have assimilated, but there would have been two castes,
+one of lords, enjoying all the advantages, the other of serfs, charged
+with all the burdens. This theory seems to have been realized anciently
+in Hindostan; but if we must credit the tradition of the
+Sandwich-islanders, their country was originally peopled by a man and
+woman, who came to Owyhee in a canoe. Unless, then, they mean that this
+man and woman came with their slaves, and that the _Eris_ are descended
+from the first, and the _Tootoos_ from the last, they ought to attribute
+to each other the same origin, and consequently regard each other as
+equals, and even as brothers, according to the manner of thinking that
+prevails among savages. The cause of the slavery of women among most
+barbarous tribes is more easily explained: the men have subjected them
+by the right of the strongest, if ignorance and superstition have not
+caused them to be previously regarded as beings of an inferior nature,
+made to be servants and not companions.[G]
+
+[Footnote F: The _Tootoos_ and all the women, the wives of the king and
+principal chiefs excepted, are eternally condemned to the use of fruits
+and vegetables; dogs and pigs being exclusively reserved for the table
+of the _Eris_.]
+
+[Footnote G: Some Indian tribes think that women have no souls, but die
+altogether like the brutes; others assign them a different paradise from
+that of men, which indeed they might have reason to prefer for
+themselves, unless their relative condition were to be ameliorated in
+the next world.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     Departure from Wahoo.--Storm.--Arrival at the Mouth of the
+     Columbia.--Reckless Order of the Captain.--Difficulty of the
+     Entrance.--Perilous Situation of the Ship.--Unhappy Fate of a part
+     of the Crew and People of the Expedition.
+
+
+Having taken on board a hundred head of live hogs, some goats, two
+sheep, a quantity of poultry, two boat-loads of sugar-cane, to feed the
+hogs, as many more of yams, taro, and other vegetables, and all our
+water-casks being snugly stowed, we weighed anchor on the 28th of
+February, sixteen days after our arrival at Karaka-koua.
+
+We left another man (Edward Aymes) at Wahoo. He belonged to a boat's
+crew which was sent ashore for a load of sugar canes. By the time the
+boat was loaded by the natives the ebb of the tide had left her aground,
+and Aymes asked leave of the coxswain to take a stroll, engaging to be
+back for the flood. Leave was granted him, but during his absence, the
+tide haying come in sufficiently to float the boat, James Thorn, the
+coxswain, did not wait for the young sailor, who was thus left behind.
+The captain immediately missed the man, and, on being informed that he
+had strolled away from the boat on leave, flew into a violent passion.
+Aymes soon made his appearance alongside, having hired some natives to
+take him on board; on perceiving him, the captain ordered him to stay in
+the long-boat, then lashed to the side with its load of sugar-cane. The
+captain then himself got into the boat, and, taking one of the canes,
+beat the poor fellow most unmercifully with it; after which, not
+satisfied with this act of brutality, he seized his victim and threw him
+overboard! Aymes, however, being an excellent swimmer, made for the
+nearest native canoe, of which there were, as usual, a great number
+around the ship. The islanders, more humane than our captain, took in
+the poor fellow, who, in spite of his entreaties to be received on
+board, could only succeed in getting his clothes, which were thrown into
+the canoe. At parting, he told Captain Thorn that he knew enough of the
+laws of his country, to obtain redress, should they ever meet in the
+territory of the American Union.
+
+While we were getting under sail, Mr. M'Kay pointed out to the captain
+that there was one water-cask empty, and proposed sending it ashore to
+be filled, as the great number of live animals we had on board required
+a large quantity of fresh water. The captain, who feared that some of
+the men would desert if he sent them ashore, made an observation to that
+effect in answer to Mr. M'Kay, who then proposed sending me on a canoe
+which lay alongside, to fill the cask in question: this was agreed to by
+the captain, and I took the cask accordingly to the nearest spring.
+Having filled it, not without some difficulty, the islanders seeking to
+detain me, and I perceiving that they had given me some gourds full of
+salt water, I was forced also to demand a double pirogue (for the canoe
+which had brought the empty cask, was found inadequate to carry a full
+one), the ship being already under full sail and gaining an offing. As
+the natives would not lend a hand to procure what I wanted, I thought it
+necessary to have recourse to the king, and in fact did so. For seeing
+the vessel so far at sea, with what I knew of the captain's disposition,
+I began to fear that he had formed the plan of leaving me on the island.
+My fears, nevertheless were ill-founded; the vessel made a tack toward
+the shore, to my great joy; and a double pirogue was furnished me,
+through the good offices of our young friend the French schoolmaster, to
+return on board with my cask.
+
+Our deck was now as much encumbered as when left New York; for we had
+been obliged to place our live animals at the gangways, and to board
+over their pens, on which it was necessary to pass, to work ship. Our
+own numbers were also augmented; for we had taken a dozen islanders for
+the service of our intended commercial establishment. Their term of
+engagement was three years, during which we were to feed and clothe
+them, and at its expiration they were to receive a hundred dollars in
+merchandise. The captain had shipped another dozen as hands on the
+coasting voyage. These people, who make very good sailors, were eager to
+be taken into employment, and we might easily have carried off a much
+greater number.
+
+We had contrary winds till the 2d of March, when, having doubled the
+western extremity of the island, we made northing, and lost sight of
+these smiling and temperate countries, to enter very soon a colder
+region and less worthy of being inhabited. The winds were variable, and
+nothing extraordinary happened to us till the 16th, when, being arrived
+at the latitude of 35 deg. 11' north, and in 138 deg. 16' of west longitude, the
+wind shifted all of a sudden to the S.S.W., and blew with such violence,
+that we were forced to strike top-gallant masts and top-sails, and run
+before the gale with a double reef in our foresail. The rolling of the
+vessel was greater than in all the gales we had experienced previously.
+Nevertheless, as we made great headway, and were approaching the
+continent, the captain by way of precaution, lay to for two nights
+successively. At last, on the 22d, in the morning, we saw the land.
+Although we had not been able to take any observations for several days,
+nevertheless, by the appearance of the coast, we perceived that we were
+near the mouth of the river Columbia, and were not more than three miles
+from land. The breakers formed by the bar at the entrance of that river,
+and which we could distinguish from the ship, left us no room to doubt
+that we had arrived at last at the end of our voyage.
+
+The wind was blowing in heavy squalls, and the sea ran very high: in
+spite of that, the captain caused a boat to be lowered, and Mr. Fox
+(first mate), Basile Lapensee, Ignace Lapensee, Jos. Nadeau, and John
+Martin, got into her, taking some provisions and firearms, with orders
+to sound the channel and report themselves on board as soon as possible.
+The boat was not even supplied with a good sail, or a mast, but one of
+the partners gave Mr. Fox a pair of bed sheets to serve for the former.
+Messrs M'Kay and M'Dougall could not help remonstrating with the
+captain on the imprudence of sending the boat ashore in such weather;
+but they could not move his obstinacy. The boat's crew pulled away from
+the ship; alas! we were never to see her again; and we already had a
+foreboding of her fate. The next day the wind seemed to moderate, and we
+approached very near the coast. The entrance of the river, which we
+plainly distinguished with the naked eye, appeared but a confused and
+agitated sea: the waves, impelled by a wind from the offing, broke upon
+the bar, and left no perceptible passage. We got no sign of the boat;
+and toward evening, for our own safety, we hauled off to sea, with all
+countenances extremely sad, not excepting the captain's, who appeared to
+me as much afflicted as the rest, and who had reason to be so. During
+the night, the wind fell, the clouds dispersed, and the sky became
+serene. On the morning of the 24th, we found that the current had
+carried us near the coast again, and we dropped anchor in fourteen
+fathoms water, north of Cape Disappointment. The _coup d'oeil_ is not
+so smiling by a great deal at this anchorage, as at the Sandwich
+islands, the coast offering little to the eye but a continuous range of
+high mountains covered with snow.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
+_Ship Tonquin, crossing the bar, 25th March 1811._]
+
+Although it was calm, the sea continued to break over the reef with
+violence, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams. We sent Mr.
+Mumford (the second mate) to sound a passage; but having found the
+breakers too heavy, he returned on board about mid-day. Messrs. M'Kay
+and D. Stuart offered their services to go ashore, to search for the
+boat's crew who left on the 22d; but they could not find a place to
+land. They saw Indians, who made signs to them to pull round the cape,
+but they deemed it more prudent to return to the vessel. Soon after
+their return, a gentle breeze sprang up from the westward, we raised
+anchor, and approached the entrance of the river. Mr. Aikin was then
+despatched in the pinnace, accompanied by John Coles (sail-maker),
+Stephen Weeks (armorer), and two Sandwich-islanders; and we followed
+under easy sail. Another boat had been sent out before this one, but
+the captain judging that she bore too far south, made her a signal to
+return. Mr. Aikin not finding less than four fathoms, we followed him
+and advanced between the breakers, with a favorable wind, so that we
+passed the boat on our starboard, within pistol-shot. We made signs to
+her to return on board, but she could not accomplish it; the ebb tide
+carried her with such rapidity that in a few minutes we had lost sight
+of her amidst the tremendous breakers that surrounded us. It was near
+nightfall, the wind began to give way, and the water was so low with the
+ebb, that we struck six or seven times with violence: the breakers broke
+over the ship and threatened to submerge her. At last we passed from two
+and three quarters fathoms of water to seven, where we were obliged to
+drop anchor, the wind having entirely failed us. We were far, however,
+from being out of danger, and the darkness came to add to the horror of
+our situation: our vessel, though at anchor, threatened to be carried
+away every moment by the tide; the best bower was let go, and it kept
+two men at the wheel to hold her head in the right direction. However,
+Providence came to our succor: the flood succeeded to the ebb, and the
+wind rising out of the offing, we weighed both anchors, in spite of the
+obscurity of the night, and succeeded in gaining a little bay or cove,
+formed at the entrance of the river by Cape Disappointment, and called
+_Baker's Bay_, where we found a good anchorage. It was about midnight,
+and all retired to take a little rest: the crew, above all, had great
+need of it. We were fortunate to be in a place of safety, for the wind
+rose higher and higher during the rest of the night, and on the morning
+of the 25th allowed us to see that this ocean is not always pacific.
+
+Some natives visited us this day, bringing with them beaver-skins; but
+the inquietude caused in our minds by the loss of two boats' crews, for
+whom we wished to make search, did not permit us to think of traffic. We
+tried to make the savages comprehend, by signs, that we had sent a boat
+ashore three days previous, and that we had no news of her; but they
+seemed not to understand us. The captain, accompanied by some of our
+gentlemen, landed, and they set themselves to search for our missing
+people, in the woods, and along the shore N.W. of the cape. After a few
+hours we saw the captain return with Weeks, one of the crew of the last
+boat sent out. He was stark naked, and after being clothed, and
+receiving some nourishment, gave us an account of his almost miraculous
+escape from the waves on the preceding night, in nearly the following
+terms:--
+
+"After you had passed our boat;" said he, "the breakers caused by the
+meeting of the wind roll and ebb-tide, became a great deal heavier than
+when we entered the river with the flood. The boat, for want of a
+rudder, became very hard to manage, and we let her drift at the mercy of
+the tide, till, after having escaped several surges, one struck us
+midship and capsized us. I lost sight of Mr. Aiken and John Coles: but
+the two islanders were close by me; I saw them stripping off their
+clothes, and I followed their example; and seeing the pinnace within my
+reach, keel upward, I seized it; the two natives came to my assistance;
+we righted her, and by sudden jerks threw out so much of the water that
+she would hold a man: one of the natives jumped in, and, bailing with
+his two hands, succeeded in a short time in emptying her. The other
+native found the oars, and about dark we were all three embarked. The
+tide having now carried us outside the breakers, I endeavored to
+persuade my companions in misfortune to row, but they were so benumbed
+with cold that they absolutely refused. I well knew that without
+clothing, and exposed to the rigor of the air, I must keep in constant
+exercise. Seeing besides that the night was advancing, and having no
+resource but the little strength left me, I set to work sculling, and
+pushed off the bar, but so as not to be carried out too far to sea.
+About midnight, one of my companions died: the other threw himself upon
+the body of his comrade, and I could not persuade him to abandon it.
+Daylight appeared at last; and, being near the shore, I headed in for
+it, and arrived, thank God, safe and sound, through the breakers, on a
+sandy beach. I helped the islander, who yet gave some signs of life, to
+get out of the boat, and we both took to the woods; but, seeing that he
+was not able to follow me, I left him to his bad fortune, and, pursuing
+a beaten path that I perceived, I found myself, to my great
+astonishment, in the course of a few hours, near the vessel."
+
+The gentlemen who went ashore with the captain divided themselves into
+three parties, to search for the native whom Weeks had left at the
+entrance of the forest; but, after scouring the woods and the point of
+the cape all day, they came on board in the evening without having found
+him.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     Regrets of the Author at the Loss of his Companions.--Obsequies of
+     a Sandwich Islander.--First steps in the Formation of the intended
+     Establishment.--New Alarm.--Encampment.
+
+
+The narrative of Weeks informed us of the death of three of our
+companions, and we could not doubt that the five others had met a
+similar fate. This loss of eight of our number, in two days, before we
+had set foot on shore, was a bad augury, and was sensibly felt by all of
+us. In the course of so long a passage, the habit of seeing each other
+every day, the participation of the same cares and dangers, and
+confinement to the same narrow limits, had formed between all the
+passengers a connection that could not be broken, above all in a manner
+so sad and so unlooked for, without making us feel a void like that
+which is experienced in a well-regulated and loving family, when it is
+suddenly deprived by death, of the presence of one of its cherished
+members. We had left New York, for the most part strangers to one
+another; but arrived at the river Columbia we were all friends, and
+regarded each other almost as brothers. We regretted especially the two
+brothers Lapensee and Joseph Nadeau: these young men had been in an
+especial manner recommended by their respectable parents in Canada to
+the care of Mr. M'Kay; and had acquired by their good conduct the esteem
+of the captain, of the crew, and of all the passengers. The brothers
+Lapensee were courageous and willing, never flinching in the hour of
+danger, and had become as good seamen as any on board. Messrs Fox and
+Aikin were both highly regarded by all; the loss of Mr. Fox, above all,
+who was endeared to every one by his gentlemanly behavior and
+affability, would have been severely regretted at any time, but it was
+doubly so in the present conjuncture: this gentleman, who had already
+made a voyage to the Northwest, could have rendered important services
+to the captain and to the company. The preceding days had been days of
+apprehension and of uneasiness; this was one of sorrow and mourning.
+
+The following day, the same gentlemen who had volunteered their services
+to seek for the missing islander, resumed their labors, and very soon
+after they left us, we perceived a great fire kindled at the verge of
+the woods, over against the ship. I was sent in a boat and arrived at
+the fire. It was our gentlemen who had kindled it, to restore animation
+to the poor islander, whom they had at last found under the rocks, half
+dead with cold and fatigue, his legs swollen and his feet bleeding. We
+clothed him, and brought him on board, where, by our care, we succeeded
+in restoring him to life.
+
+Toward evening, a number of the Sandwich-islanders, provided with the
+necessary utensils, and offerings consisting of biscuit, lard, and
+tobacco, went ashore, to pay the last duties to their compatriot, who
+died in Mr. Aikin's boat, on the night of the 24th. Mr. Pillet and I
+went with them, and witnessed the obsequies, which took place in the
+manner following. Arrived at the spot where the body had been hung upon
+a tree to preserve it from the wolves, the natives dug a grave in the
+sand; then taking down the body, and stretching it alongside the pit,
+they placed the biscuit under one of the arms, a piece of pork beneath
+the other, and the tobacco beneath the chin and the genital parts. Thus
+provided for the journey to the other world, the body was deposited in
+the grave and covered with sand and stones. All the countrymen of the
+dead man then knelt on either side of the grave, in a double row, with
+their faces to the east, except one of them who officiated as priest;
+the latter went to the margin of the sea, and having filled his hat with
+water, sprinkled the two rows of islanders, and recited a sort of
+prayer, to which the others responded, nearly as we do in the litanies.
+That prayer ended, they rose and returned to the vessel, looking neither
+to the right hand nor to the left. As every one of them appeared to me
+familiar with the part he performed, it is more than probable that they
+observed, as far as circumstances permitted, the ceremonies practised in
+their country on like occasions. We all returned on board about sundown.
+
+The next day, the 27th, desirous of clearing the gangways of the live
+stock; we sent some men on shore to construct a pen, and soon after
+landed about fifty hogs, committing them to the care of one of the
+hands. On the 30th, the long boat was manned, armed and provisioned, and
+the captain, with Messrs. M'Kay and D. Stuart, and some of the clerks,
+embarked on it, to ascend the river and choose an eligible spot for our
+trading establishment. Messrs. Boss and Pillet left at the same time, to
+run down south, and try to obtain intelligence of Mr. Fox and his crew.
+In the meantime, having reached some of the goods most at hand, we
+commenced, with the natives who came every day to the vessel, a trade
+for beaver-skins, and sea-otter stones.
+
+Messrs. Ross and Pillet returned on board on the 1st of April, without
+having learned anything respecting Mr. Fox and his party. They did not
+even perceive along the beach any vestiges of the boat. The natives who
+occupy Point _Adams_, and who are called _Clatsops_, received our young
+gentlemen very amicably and hospitably. The captain and his companions
+also returned on the 4th, without having decided on a position for the
+establishment, finding none which appeared to them eligible. It was
+consequently resolved to explore the south bank, and Messrs. M'Dougal
+and D. Stuart departed on that expedition the next day, promising to
+return by the 7th.
+
+The 7th came, and these gentlemen did not return. It rained almost all
+day. The day after, some natives came on board, and reported that
+Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart had capsized the evening before in crossing
+the bay. This news at first alarmed us; and, if it had been verified,
+would have given the finishing blow to our discouragement. Still, as the
+weather was excessively bad, and we did not repose entire faith in the
+story of the natives--whom, moreover, we might not have perfectly
+understood--we remained in suspense till the 10th. On the morning of
+that day, we were preparing to send some of the people in search of our
+two gentlemen, when we perceived two large canoes, full of Indians,
+coming toward the vessel: they were of the _Chinook_ village, which was
+situated at the foot of a bluff on the north side of the river, and were
+bringing back Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart. We made known to these
+gentlemen the report we had heard on the 8th from the natives, and they
+informed us that it had been in fact well founded; that on the 7th,
+desirous of reaching the ship agreeably to their promise, they had
+quitted _Chinook_ point, in spite of the remonstrances of the chief,
+_Comcomly_, who sought to detain them by pointing out the danger to
+which they would expose themselves in crossing the bay in such a heavy
+sea as it was; that they had scarcely made more than a mile and a half
+before a huge wave broke over their boat and capsized it; that the
+Indians, aware of the danger to which they were exposed, had followed
+them, and that, but for their assistance, Mr. M'Dougal, who could not
+swim, would inevitably have been drowned; that, after the Chinooks had
+kindled a large fire and dried their clothes, they had been conducted by
+them back to their village, where the principal chief had received them
+with all imaginable hospitality, regaling them with every delicacy his
+wigwam afforded; that, in fine, if they had got back safe and sound to
+the vessel, it was to the timely succor and humane cares of the Indians
+whom we saw before us that they owed it. We liberally rewarded these
+generous children of the forest, and they returned home well satisfied.
+
+This last survey was also fruitless, as Messrs. M'Dougal and Stuart did
+not find an advantageous site to build upon. But, as the captain wished
+to take advantage of the fine season to pursue his traffic with the
+natives along the N.W. coast, it was resolved to establish ourselves on
+Point _George_, situated on the south bank, about fourteen or fifteen
+miles from our present anchorage. Accordingly, we embarked on the 12th,
+in the long-boat, to the number of twelve, furnished with tools, and
+with provisions for a week. We landed at the bottom of a small bay,
+where we formed a sort of encampment. The spring, usually so tardy in
+this latitude, was already far advanced; the foliage was budding, and
+the earth was clothing itself with verdure; the weather was superb, and
+all nature smiled. We imagined ourselves in the garden of Eden; the wild
+forests seemed to us delightful groves, and the leaves transformed to
+brilliant flowers. No doubt, the pleasure of finding ourselves at the
+end of our voyage, and liberated from the ship, made things appear to us
+a great deal more beautiful than they really were. Be that as it may, we
+set ourselves to work with enthusiasm, and cleared, in a few days, a
+point of land of its under-brush, and of the huge trunks of pine-trees
+that covered it, which we rolled, half-burnt, down the bank. The vessel
+came to moor near our encampment, and the trade went on. The natives
+visited us constantly and in great numbers; some to trade, others to
+gratify their curiosity, or to purloin some little articles if they
+found an opportunity. We landed the frame timbers which we had brought,
+ready cut for the purpose, in the vessel; and by the end of April, with
+the aid of the ship-carpenters, John Weeks and Johann Koaster, we had
+laid the keel of a coasting-schooner of about thirty tons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Voyage up the River.--Description of the Country.--Meeting with
+     strange Indians.
+
+
+The Indians having informed us that above certain rapids, there was an
+establishment of white men, we doubted not that it was a trading post of
+the Northwest Company; and to make sure of it, we procured a large canoe
+and a guide, and set out, on the 2d of May, Messrs M'Kay, R. Stuart,
+Montigny, and I, with a sufficient number of hands. We first passed a
+lofty head-land, that seemed at a distance to be detached from the main,
+and to which we gave the name of _Tongue Point_. Here the river gains a
+width of some nine or ten miles, and keeps it for about twelve miles up.
+The left bank, which we were coasting, being concealed by little low
+islands, we encamped for the night on one of them, at the village of
+_Wahkaykum_, to which our guide belonged.
+
+We continued our journey on the 3d: the river narrows considerably, at
+about thirty miles from its mouth, and is obstructed with islands, which
+are thickly covered with the willow, poplar, alder, and ash. These
+islands are, without exception, uninhabited and uninhabitable, being
+nothing but swamps, and entirely overflowed in the months of June and
+July; as we understood from _Coalpo_, our guide, who appeared to be an
+intelligent man. In proportion as we advanced, we saw the high mountains
+capped with snow, which form the chief and majestic feature, though a
+stern one, of the banks of the Columbia for some distance from its
+mouth, recede, and give place to a country of moderate elevation, and
+rising amphitheatrically from the margin of the stream. The river
+narrows to a mile or thereabouts; the forest is less dense, and patches
+of green prairie are seen. We passed a large village on the south bank,
+called _Kreluit_, above which is a fine forest of oaks; and encamped
+for the night, on a low point, at the foot of an isolated rock, about
+one hundred and fifty feet high. This rock appeared to me remarkable on
+account of its situation, reposing in the midst of a low and swampy
+ground, as if it had been dropped from the clouds, and seeming to have
+no connection with the neighboring mountains. On a cornice or shelving
+projection about thirty feet from its base, the natives of the adjacent
+villages deposite their dead, in canoes; and it is the same rock to
+which, for this reason, Lieutenant Broughton gave the name of _Mount
+Coffin_.
+
+On the 4th, in the morning, we arrived at a large village of the same
+name as that which we had passed the evening before, _Kreluit_, and we
+landed to obtain information respecting a considerable stream, which
+here discharges into the Columbia, and respecting its resources for the
+hunter and trader in furs. It comes from the north, and is called
+_Cowlitzk_ by the natives. Mr. M'Kay embarked with Mr. de Montigny and
+two Indians, in a small canoe, to examine the course of this river, a
+certain distance up. On entering the stream, they saw a great number of
+birds, which they took at first for turkeys, so much they resembled
+them, but which were only a kind of carrion eagles, vulgarly called
+_turkey-buzzards_. We were not a little astonished to see Mr. de
+Montigny return on foot and alone; he soon informed us of the reason:
+having ascended the _Kowlitzk_ about a mile and a half, on rounding a
+bend of the stream, they suddenly came in view of about twenty canoes,
+full of Indians, who had made a rush upon them with the most frightful
+yells; the two natives and the guide who conducted their little canoe,
+retreated with the utmost precipitancy, but seeing that they would be
+overtaken, they stopped short, and begged Mr. M'Kay to fire upon the
+approaching savages, which he, being well acquainted with the Indian
+character from the time he accompanied Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, and
+having met with similar occurrences before, would by no means do; but
+displayed a friendly sign to the astonished natives, and invited them to
+land for an amicable talk; to which they immediately assented. Mr.
+M'Kay had sent Mr. de Montigny to procure some tobacco and a pipe, in
+order to strike a peace with these barbarians. The latter then returned
+to Mr. M'Kay, with the necessary articles, and in the evening the party
+came back to our camp, which we had fixed between the villages. We were
+then informed that the Indians whom Mr. M'Kay had met, were at war with
+the _Kreluits_. It was impossible, consequently, to close our eyes all
+night; the natives passing and repassing continually from one village to
+the other, making fearful cries, and coming every minute to solicit us
+to discharge our firearms; all to frighten their enemies, and let them
+see that they were on their guard.
+
+On the 5th, in the morning, we paid a visit to the hostile camp; and
+those savages, who had never seen white men, regarded us with curiosity
+and astonishment, lifting the legs of our trowsers and opening our
+shirts, to see if the skin of our bodies resembled that of our faces and
+hands. We remained some time with them, to make proposals of peace; and
+having ascertained that this warlike demonstration originated in a
+trifling offence on the part of the _Kreluits_, we found them well
+disposed to arrange matters in an amicable fashion. After having given
+them, therefore, some looking-glasses, beads, knives, tobacco, and other
+trifles, we quitted them and pursued our way.
+
+Having passed a deserted village, and then several islands, we came in
+sight of a noble mountain on the north, about twenty miles distant, all
+covered with snow, contrasting remarkably with the dark foliage of the
+forests at its base, and probably the same which was seen by Broughton,
+and named by him _Mount St. Helen's_. We pulled against a strong current
+all this day, and at evening our guide made us enter a little river, on
+the bank of which we found a good camping place, under a grove of oaks,
+and in the midst of odoriferous wild flowers, where we passed a night
+more tranquil than that which had preceded it.
+
+On the morning of the 6th we ascended this small stream, and soon
+arrived at a large village called _Thlakalamah_, the chief whereof, who
+was a young and handsome man, was called _Keasseno_, and was a relative
+of our guide. The situation of this village is the most charming that
+can be, being built on the little river that we had ascended, and indeed
+at its navigable head, being here, but a torrent with numerous cascades
+leaping from rock to rock in their descent to the deep, limpid water,
+which then flows through a beautiful prairie, enamelled with odorous
+flowers of all colors, and studded with superb groves of oak. The
+freshness and beauty of this spot, which Nature seemed to have taken
+pleasure in adorning and enriching with her most precious gifts,
+contrasted, in a striking manner, with the indigence and uncleanliness
+of its inhabitants; and I regretted that it had not fallen to the lot of
+civilized men. I was wrong no doubt: it is just that those should be
+most favored by their common mother, who are least disposed to pervert
+her gifts, or to give the preference to advantages which are factitious,
+and often very frivolous. We quitted with regret this charming spot,
+and soon came to another large village, which our guide informed us was
+called _Kathlapootle_, and was situated at the confluence of a small
+stream, that seemed to flow down from the mountain covered with snow,
+which we had seen the day before: this river is called _Cowilkt_. We
+coasted a pretty island, well timbered, and high enough above the level
+of the Columbia to escape inundation in the freshets, and arrived at two
+villages called _Maltnabah_. We then passed the confluence of the river
+_Wallamat_, or _Willamet_, above which the tide ceases to be felt in the
+Columbia. Our guide informed us that ascending this river about a day's
+journey, there was a considerable fall, beyond which the country
+abounded in deer, elk, bear, beaver, and otter. But here, at the spot
+where we were, the oaks and poplar which line both banks of the river,
+the green and flowery prairies discerned through the trees, and the
+mountains discovered in the distance, offer to the eye of the observer
+who loves the beauties of simple nature, a prospect the most lovely and
+enchanting. We encamped for the night on the edge of one of these fine
+prairies.
+
+On the 7th we passed several low islands, and soon discovered _Mount
+Hood_, a high mountain, capped with snow, so named by Lieutenant
+Broughton; and _Mount Washington_, another snowy summit, so called by
+Lewis and Clarke. The prospect which the former had before his eyes at
+this place, appeared to him so charming, that landing upon a point, to
+take possession of the country in the name of King George, he named it
+_Pointe Belle Vue_. At two o'clock we passed _Point Vancouver_, the
+highest reached by Broughton. The width of the river diminishes
+considerably above this point, and we began very soon to encounter
+shoals of sand and gravel; a sure indication that we were nearing the
+rapids. We encamped that evening under a ledge of rocks, descending
+almost to the water's edge.
+
+The next day, the 8th, we did not proceed far before we encountered a
+very rapid current. Soon after, we saw a hut of Indians engaged in
+fishing, where we stopped to breakfast. We found here an old blind man,
+who gave us a cordial reception. Our guide said that he was a white man,
+and that his name was _Soto_. We learned from the mouth of the old man
+himself, that he was the son of a Spaniard who had been wrecked at the
+mouth of the river; that a part of the crew on this occasion got safe
+ashore, but were all massacred by the Clatsops, with the exception of
+four, who were spared and who married native women; that these four
+Spaniards, of whom his father was one, disgusted with the savage life,
+attempted to reach a settlement of their own nation toward the south,
+but had never been heard of since; and that when his father, with his
+companions, left the country, he himself was yet quite young.[H] These
+good people having regaled us with fresh salmon, we left them, and
+arrived very soon at a rapid, opposite an island, named _Strawberry
+Island_ by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1806. We left our men at a
+large village, to take care of the canoe and baggage; and following our
+guide, after walking about two hours, in a beaten path, we came to the
+foot of the fall, where we amused ourselves for some time with shooting
+the seals, which were here in abundance, and in watching the Indians
+taking salmon below the cataract, in their scoop-nets, from stages
+erected for that purpose over the eddies. A chief, a young man of fine
+person and a good mien, came to us, followed by some twenty others, and
+invited us to his wigwam: we accompanied him, had roasted salmon for
+supper, and some mats were spread for our night's repose.
+
+[Footnote H: These facts, if they were authenticated, would prove that
+the Spaniards were the first who discovered the mouth of the Columbia.
+It is certain that long before the voyages of Captains Gray and
+Vancouver, they knew at least a part of the course of that river, which
+was designated in their maps under the name of _Oregon_.]
+
+The next morning, having ascertained that there was no trading post near
+the Falls, and Coalpo absolutely refusing to proceed further, alleging
+that the natives of the villages beyond were his enemies, and would not
+fail to kill him if they had him in their power, we decided to return to
+the encampment. Having, therefore, distributed some presents to our host
+(I mean the young chief with whom we had supped and lodged) and to some
+of his followers, and procured a supply of fresh salmon for the return
+voyage, we re-embarked and reached the camp on the 14th, without
+accidents or incidents worth relating.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     Departure of the Tonquin.--Indian Messengers.--Project of an
+     Expedition to the Interior.--Arrival of Mr. Daniel
+     Thompson.--Departure of the Expedition.--Designs upon us by the
+     Natives.--Rumors of the Destruction of the Tonquin.--Scarcity of
+     Provisions.--Narrative of a strange Indian.--Duplicity and Cunning
+     of Comcomly.
+
+
+Having built a warehouse (62 feet by 20) to put under cover the articles
+we were to receive from the ship, we were busily occupied, from the 16th
+to the 30th, in stowing away the goods and other effects intended for
+the establishment.
+
+The ship, which had been detained by circumstances, much longer than had
+been anticipated, left her anchorage at last, on the 1st of June, and
+dropped down to Baker's bay, there to wait for a favorable wind to get
+out of the river. As she was to coast along the north, and enter all the
+harbors, in order to procure as many furs as possible, and to touch at
+the Columbia river before she finally left these seas for the United
+States, it was unanimously resolved among the partners, that Mr. M'Kay
+should join the cruise, as well to aid the captain, as to obtain correct
+information in regard to the commerce with the natives on that coast.
+Mr. M'Kay selected Messrs. J. Lewis and O. de Montigny to accompany him;
+but the latter having represented that the sea made him sick, was
+excused; and Mr. M'Kay shipped in his place a young man named Louis
+Brusle, to serve him in the capacity of domestic, being one of the young
+Canadian sailors. I had the good fortune not to be chosen for this
+disastrous voyage, thanks to my having made myself useful at the
+establishment. Mr. Mumford (the second mate) owed the same happiness to
+the incompatibility of his disposition with that of the captain; he had
+permission to remain, and engaged with the company in place of Mr. Aikin
+as coaster, and in command of the schooner.[I]
+
+[Footnote I: This schooner was found too small for the purpose. Mr.
+Astor had no idea of the dangers to be met at the mouth of the Colombia,
+or he would have ordered the frame of a vessel of at least one hundred
+tons. The frames shipped in New York were used in the construction of
+this one only, which was employed solely in the river trade.]
+
+On the 5th of June, the ship got out to sea, with a good wind. We
+continued in the meantime to labor without intermission at the
+completion of the storehouse, and in the erection of a dwelling for
+ourselves, and a powder magazine. These buildings were constructed of
+hewn logs, and, in the absence of boards, tightly covered and roofed
+with cedar bark. The natives, of both sexes, visited us more frequently,
+and formed a pretty considerable camp near the establishment.
+
+On the 15th, some natives from up the river, brought us two strange
+Indians, a man and a woman. They were not attired like the savages on
+the river Columbia, but wore long robes of dressed deer-skin, with
+leggings and moccasins in the fashion of the tribes to the east of the
+Rocky Mountains. We put questions to them in various Indian dialects;
+but they did not understand us. They showed us a letter addressed to
+"_Mr. John Stuart, Fort Estekatadene, New Caledonia_." Mr. Pillet then
+addressing them in the _Knisteneaux_ language, they answered, although
+they appeared not to understand it perfectly. Notwithstanding, we
+learned from them that they had been sent by a Mr. Finnan M'Donald, a
+clerk in the service of the Northwest Company, and who had a post on a
+river which they called _Spokan_; that having lost their way, they had
+followed the course of the _Tacousah-Tesseh_ (the Indian name of the
+Columbia), that when they arrived at the Falls, the natives made them
+understand that there were white men at the mouth of the river; and not
+doubting that the person to whom the letter was addressed would be found
+there, they had come to deliver it.
+
+We kept these messengers for some days, and having drawn from them
+important information respecting the country in the interior, west of
+the Mountains, we decided to send an expedition thither, under the
+command of Mr. David Stuart; and the 15th July was fixed for its
+departure.
+
+All was in fact ready on the appointed day, and we were about to load
+the canoes, when toward midday, we saw a large canoe, with a flag
+displayed at her stern, rounding the point which we called _Tongue
+Point_. We knew not who it could be; for we did not so soon expect our
+own party, who (as the reader will remember) were to cross the
+continent, by the route which Captains Lewis and Clarke had followed, in
+1805, and to winter for that purpose somewhere on the Missouri. We were
+soon relieved of our uncertainty by the arrival of the canoe, which
+touched shore at a little wharf that we had built to facilitate the
+landing of goods from the vessel. The flag she bore was the British, and
+her crew was composed of eight Canadian boatmen or _voyageurs_. A
+well-dressed man, who appeared to be the commander, was the first to
+leap ashore, and addressing us without ceremony, said that his name was
+David Thompson, and that he was one of the partners of the Northwest
+Company. We invited him to our quarters, which were at one end of the
+warehouse, the dwelling-house not being yet completed. After the usual
+civilities had been extended to our visitor, Mr. Thompson said that he
+had crossed the continent during the preceding season; but that the
+desertion of a portion of his men had compelled him to winter at the
+base of the Rocky mountains, at the head waters of the Columbia. In the
+spring he had built a canoe, the materials for which he had brought with
+him across the mountains, and had come down the river to our
+establishment. He added that the wintering partners had resolved to
+abandon all their trading posts west of the mountains, not to enter into
+competition with us, provided our company would engage not to encroach
+upon their commerce on the east side: and to support what he said,
+produced a letter to that effect, addressed by the wintering partners to
+the chief of their house in Canada, the Hon. William M'Gillivray.
+
+Mr. Thompson kept a regular journal, and travelled, I thought, more like
+a geographer than a fur-trader. He was provided with a sextant,
+chronometer and barometer, and during a week's sojourn which he made at
+our place, had an opportunity to make several astronomical
+observations. He recognised the two Indians who had brought the letter
+addressed to Mr. J. Stuart, and told us that they were two women, one of
+whom had dressed herself as a man, to travel with more security. The
+description which he gave us of the interior of the country was not
+calculated to give us a very favorable idea of it, and did not perfectly
+accord with that of our two Indian guests. We persevered, however, in
+the resolution we had taken, of sending an expedition thither; and, on
+the 23d Mr. D. Stuart set out, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Boss,
+M'Clellan and de Montigny, with four Canadian _voyageurs_, and the two
+Indian women, and in company with Mr. Thompson and his crew. The wind
+being favorable, the little flotilla hoisted sail, and was soon out of
+our sight.[J]
+
+[Footnote J: Mr. Thompson had no doubt been sent by the agents of the
+Northwest Company, to take possession of an eligible spot at the mouth
+of the Columbia, with a view of forestalling the plan of Mr. Astor. He
+would have been there before us, no doubt, but for the desertion of his
+men. The consequence of this step would have been his taking possession
+of the country, and displaying the British flag, as an emblem, of that
+possession and a guarantee of protection hereafter. He found himself too
+late, however, and the stars and stripes floating over _Astoria_. This
+note is not intended by the author as an after-thought: as the opinion
+it conveys was that which we all entertained at the time of that
+gentleman's visit.]
+
+The natives, who till then had surrounded us in great numbers, began to
+withdraw, and very soon we saw no more of them. At first we attributed
+their absence to the want of furs to trade with; but we soon learned
+that they acted in that manner from another motive. One of the secondary
+chiefs who had formed a friendship for Mr. R. Stuart, informed him, that
+seeing us reduced in number by the expedition lately sent off, they had
+formed the design of surprising us, to take our lives and plunder the
+post. We hastened, therefore, to put ourselves in the best possible
+state of defence. The dwelling house was raised, parallel to the
+warehouse; we cut a great quantity of pickets in the forest, and formed
+a square, with palisades in front and rear, of about 90 feet by 120; the
+warehouse, built on the edge of a ravine, formed one flank, the dwelling
+house and shops the other; with a little bastion at each angle north
+and south, on which were mounted four small cannon. The whole was
+finished in six days, and had a sufficiently formidable aspect to deter
+the Indians from attacking us; and for greater surety, we organized a
+guard for day and night.
+
+Toward the end of the month, a large assemblage of Indians from the
+neighborhood of the straits _Juan de Fuca_, and _Gray's Harbor_, formed
+a great camp on Baker's Bay, for the ostensible object of fishing for
+sturgeon. It was bruited among these Indians that the Tonquin had been
+destroyed on the coast, and Mr. M'Kay (or the chief trader, as they
+called him) and all the crew, massacred by the natives. We did not give
+credence to this rumor. Some days after, other Indians from Gray's
+Harbor, called _Tchikeylis_, confirmed what the first had narrated, and
+even gave us, as far as we could judge by the little we knew of their
+language, a very circumstantial detail of the affair, so that without
+wholly convincing us, it did not fail to make a painful impression on
+our minds, and keep us in an excited state of feeling as to the truth
+of the report. The Indians of the Bay looked fiercer and more warlike
+than those of our neighborhood; so we redoubled our vigilance, and
+performed a regular daily drill to accustom ourselves to the use of
+arms.
+
+To the necessity of securing ourselves against an attack on the part of
+the natives, was joined that of obtaining a stock of provisions for the
+winter: those which we had received from the vessel were very quickly
+exhausted, and from the commencement of the month of July we were forced
+to depend upon fish. Not having brought hunters with us, we had to rely
+for venison, on the precarious hunt of one of the natives who had not
+abandoned us when the rest of his countrymen retired. This man brought
+us from time to time, a very lean and very dry doe-elk, for which we had
+to pay, notwithstanding, very dear. The ordinary price of a stag was a
+blanket, a knife, some tobacco, powder and ball, besides supplying our
+hunter with a musket. This dry meat, and smoke-dried fish, constituted
+our daily food, and that in very insufficient quantity for hardworking
+men. "We had no bread, and vegetables, of course, were quite out of the
+question. In a word our fare was not sumptuous. Those who accommodated
+themselves best to our mode of living were the Sandwich-islanders:
+salmon and elk were to them exquisite viands.
+
+On the 11th of August a number of Chinooks visited us, bringing a
+strange Indian, who had, they said, something interesting to
+communicate. This savage told us, in fact, that he had been engaged with
+ten more of his countrymen, by a Captain _Ayres_, to hunt seals on the
+islands in _Sir Francis Drake's Bay_, where these animals are very
+numerous, with a promise of being taken home and paid for their
+services; the captain had left them on the islands, to go southwardly
+and purchase provisions, he said, of the Spaniards of Monterey in
+California; but he had never returned: and they, believing that he had
+been wrecked, had embarked in a skiff which he had left them, and had
+reached the main land, from which they were not far distant; but their
+skiff was shattered to pieces in the surf, and they had saved
+themselves by swimming. Believing that they were not far from the river
+Columbia, they had followed the shore, living, on the way, upon
+shell-fish and frogs; at last they arrived among strange Indians, who,
+far from receiving them kindly, had killed eight of them and made the
+rest prisoners; but the _Klemooks_, a neighboring tribe to the
+_Clatsops_, hearing that they were captives, had ransomed them.
+
+These facts must have occurred in March or April, 1811. The Indian who
+gave us an account of them, appeared to have a great deal of
+intelligence and knew some words of the English language. He added that
+he had been at the Russian trading post at _Chitka_, that he had visited
+the coast of California, the Sandwich islands, and even China.
+
+About this time, old Comcomly sent to _Astoria_ for Mr. Stuart and me,
+to come and cure him of a swelled throat, which, he said, afflicted him
+sorely. As it was late in the day, we postponed till to-morrow going to
+cure the chief of the Chinooks; and it was well we did; for, the same
+evening, the wife of the Indian who had accompanied us in our voyage to
+the Falls, sent us word that Comcomly was perfectly well, the pretended
+_tonsillitis_ being only a pretext to get us in his power. This timely
+advice kept us at home.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     Occupations at Astoria.--Return of a Portion of the Men of the
+     Expedition to the Interior.--New Expedition.--Excursion in Search
+     of three Deserters.
+
+
+On the 26th of September our house was finished, and we took possession
+of it. The mason work had at first caused us some difficulty; but at
+last, not being able to make lime for want of lime-stones, we employed
+blue clay as a substitute for mortar. This dwelling-house was
+sufficiently spacious to hold all our company, and we had distributed it
+in the most convenient manner that we could. It comprised a sitting, a
+dining room, some lodging or sleeping rooms, and an apartment for the
+men and artificers, all under the same roof. We also completed a shop
+for the blacksmith, who till that time had worked in the open air.
+
+The schooner, the construction of which had necessarily languished for
+want of an adequate force at the ship-yard, was finally launched on the
+2d of October, and named the _Dolly_, with the formalities usual on such
+occasions. I was on that day at _Young's Bay_, where I saw the ruins of
+the quarters erected by Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1805-'06: they
+were but piles of rough, unhewn logs, overgrown with parasite creepers.
+
+On the evening of the 5th, Messrs. Pillet and M'Lellan arrived, from the
+party of Mr. David Stuart, in a canoe manned by two of his men. They
+brought, as passengers, Mr. Regis Bruguier, whom I had known in Canada
+as a respectable country merchant, and an Iroquois family. Mr. Bruguier
+had been a trader among the Indians on the Saskatchawine river, where he
+had lost his outfit: he had since turned trapper, and had come into this
+region to hunt beaver, being provided with traps and other needful
+implements. The report which these gentlemen gave of the interior was
+highly satisfactory: they had found the climate salubrious, and had
+been well received by the natives. The latter possessed a great number
+of horses, and Mr. Stuart had purchased several of these animals at a
+low price. Ascending the river they had come to a pretty stream, which
+the natives called _Okenakan_. Mr. Stuart had resolved to establish his
+post on the bank of this river, and having erected a log-house, he
+thought best to send back the above named persons, retaining with him,
+for the winter, only Messrs. Ross and de Montigny, and two men.[K]
+
+[Footnote K: One of these men bad been left with him by Mr. Thompson, in
+exchange for a Sandwich-islander whom that gentleman proposed to take to
+Canada, and thence to England.]
+
+Meanwhile, the season being come when the Indians quit the seashore and
+the banks of the Columbia, to retire into the woods and establish their
+winter quarters along the small streams and rivers, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, having received no supplies from them for
+some time. It was therefore determined that Mr. R. Stuart should set out
+in the schooner with Mr. Mumford, for the threefold purpose, of
+obtaining all the provisions they could, cutting oaken staves for the
+use of the cooper, and trading with the Indians up the river. They left
+with this design on the 12th. At the end of five days Mr. Mumford
+returned in a canoe of Indians. This man having wished to assume the
+command, and to order (in the style of Captain Thorn) the person who had
+engaged him to obey, had been sent back in consequence to _Astoria_.
+
+On the 10th of November we discovered that three of our people had
+absconded, viz., P.D. Jeremie, and the two Belleaux. They had leave to
+go out shooting for two days, and carried off with them firearms and
+ammunition, and a handsome light Indian canoe. As soon as their flight
+was known, having procured a large canoe of the Chinooks, we embarked,
+Mr. Matthews and I, with five natives, to pursue them, with orders to
+proceed as far as the Falls, if necessary. On the 11th, having ascended
+the river to a place called _Oak Point_, we overtook the schooner lying
+at anchor, while Mr. Stuart was taking in a load of staves and
+hoop-poles. Mr. Farnham joined our party, as well as one of the hands,
+and thus reinforced, we pursued our way, journeying day and night, and
+stopping at every Indian village, to make inquiries and offer a reward
+for the apprehension of our runaways. Having reached the Falls without
+finding any trace of them, and our provisions giving out, we retraced
+our steps, and arrived on the 16th at Oak Point, which we found Mr.
+Stuart ready to quit.
+
+Meanwhile, the natives of the vicinity informed us that they had seen
+the marks of shoes imprinted on the sand, at the confluence of a small
+stream in the neighborhood. We got three small canoes, carrying two
+persons each, and having ascertained that the information was correct,
+after searching the environs during a part of the 17th, we ascended the
+small stream as far as some high lands which are seen from Oak Point,
+and which lie about eight or nine miles south of it. The space between
+these high lands and the ridge crowned with oaks on the bank of the
+Columbia, is a low and swampy land, cut up by an infinity of little
+channels. Toward evening we returned on our path, to regain the
+schooner; but instead of taking the circuitous way of the river, by
+which we had come, we made for Oak Point by the most direct route,
+through these channels; but night coming on, we lost ourselves. Our
+situation became the most disagreeable that can be imagined. Being
+unable to find a place where we could land, on account of the morass, we
+were obliged to continue rowing, or rather turning round, in this
+species of labyrinth, constantly kneeling in our little canoes, which
+any unlucky movement would infallibly have caused to upset. It rained in
+torrents and was dark as pitch. At last, after having wandered about
+during a considerable part of the night, we succeeded in gaining the
+edge of the mainland. Leaving there our canoes, because we could not
+drag them (as we attempted) through the forest, we crossed the woods in
+the darkness, tearing ourselves with the brush, and reached the
+schooner, at about two in the morning, benumbed with cold and exhausted
+with fatigue.
+
+The 18th was spent in getting in the remainder of the lading of the
+little vessel, and on the morning of the 19th we raised anchor, and
+dropped down abreast of the Kreluit village, where some of the Indians
+offering to aid us in the search after our deserters, Mr. Stuart put Mr.
+Farnham and me on shore to make another attempt. We passed that day in
+drying our clothes, and the next day embarked in a canoe, with one
+_Kreluit_ man and a squaw, and ascended the river before described as
+entering the Columbia at this place. We soon met a canoe of natives, who
+informed us that our runaways had been made prisoners by the chief of a
+tribe which dwells upon the banks of the Willamet river, and which they
+called _Cathlanaminim_. We kept on and encamped on a beach of sand
+opposite _Deer island_. There we passed a night almost as disagreeable
+as that of the 17th-18th. We had lighted a fire, and contrived a shelter
+of mats; but there came on presently a violent gust of wind, accompanied
+with a heavy rain: our fire was put out, our mats were carried away, and
+we could neither rekindle the one nor find the others: so that we had
+to remain all night exposed to the fury of the storm. As soon as it was
+day we re-embarked, and set ourselves to paddling with all our might to
+warm ourselves. In the evening we arrived near the village where our
+deserters were, and saw one of them on the skirts of it. We proceeded to
+the hut of the chief, where we found all three, more inclined to follow
+us than to remain as slaves among these barbarians. We passed the night
+in the chief's lodge, not without some fear and some precaution; this
+chief having the reputation of being a wicked man, and capable of
+violating the rights of parties. He was a man of high stature and a good
+mien, and proud in proportion, as we discovered by the chilling and
+haughty manner in which he received us. Farnham and I agreed to keep
+watch alternately, but this arrangement was superfluous, as neither of
+us could sleep a wink for the infernal thumping and singing made by the
+medicine men all night long, by a dying native. I had an opportunity of
+seeing the sick man make his last will and testament: having caused to
+be brought to him whatever he had that was most precious, his bracelets
+of copper, his bead necklace, his bow and arrows and quiver, his nets,
+his lines, his spear, his pipe, &c., he distributed the whole to his
+most intimate friends, with a promise on their part, to restore them, if
+he recovered.
+
+On the 22d, after a great deal of talk, and infinite quibbling on the
+part of the chief, we agreed with him for the ransom of our men. I had
+visited every lodge in the village and found but few of the young men,
+the greater part having gone on a fishing excursion; knowing, therefore,
+that the chief could not be supported by his warriors, I was resolved
+not be imposed upon, and as I knew where the firearms of the fugitives
+had been deposited, I would have them at all hazards; but we were
+obliged to give him all our blankets, amounting to eight, a brass
+kettle, a hatchet, a small pistol, much out of order, a powder-horn, and
+some rounds of ammunition: with these articles placed in a pile before
+him, we demanded the men's clothing, the three fowling-pieces, and
+their canoe, which he had caused to be hidden in the woods. Nothing but
+our firmness compelled him to accept the articles offered in exchange;
+but at last, with great reluctance, he closed the bargain, and suffered
+us to depart in the evening with the prisoners and the property.
+
+We all five (including the three deserters) embarked in the large canoe,
+leaving our Kreluit and his wife to follow in the other, and proceeded
+as far as the Cowlitzk, where we camped. The next day, we pursued our
+journey homeward, only stopping at the Kreluit village to get some
+provisions, and soon entered the group of islands which crowd the river
+above Gray's bay. On one of these we stopped to amuse ourselves with
+shooting some ducks, and meanwhile a smart breeze springing up, we split
+open a double-rush mat (which had served as a bag), to make a sail, and
+having cut a forked sapling for a mast, shipped a few boulders to stay
+the foot of it, and spread our canvass to the wind. We soon arrived in
+sight of Gray's bay, at a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles from our
+establishment. We had, notwithstanding, a long passage across, the
+river forming in this place, as I have before observed, a sort of lake,
+by the recession of its shores on either hand: but the wind was fair. We
+undertook, then, to cross, and quitted the island, to enter the broad,
+lake-like expanse, just as the sun was going down, hoping to reach
+Astoria in a couple of hours.
+
+We were not long before we repented of our temerity: for in a short time
+the sky became overcast, the wind increased till it blew with violence,
+and meeting with the tide, caused the waves to rise prodigiously, which
+broke over our wretched canoe, and filled it with water. We lightened it
+as much as we could, by throwing overboard the little baggage we had
+left, and I set the men to baling with our remaining brass kettle. At
+last, after having been, for three hours, the sport of the raging
+billows, and threatened every instant with being swallowed up, we had
+the unexpected happiness of landing in a cove on the north shore of the
+river. Our first care was to thank the Almighty for having delivered us
+from so imminent a danger. Then, when we had secured the canoe, and
+groped our way to the forest, where we made, with branches of trees, a
+shelter against the wind--still continuing to blow with violence, and
+kindled a great fire to warm us and dry our clothes. That did not
+prevent us from shivering the rest of the night, even in congratulating
+ourselves on the happiness of setting our foot on shore at the moment
+when we began quite to despair of saving ourselves at all.
+
+The morning of the 24th brought with it a clear sky, but no abatement in
+the violence of the wind, till toward evening, when we again embarked,
+and arrived with our deserters at the establishment, where they never
+expected to see us again. Some Indians who had followed us in a canoe,
+up to the moment when we undertook the passage across the evening
+before, had followed the southern shore, and making the portage of the
+isthmus of Tongue Point, had happily arrived at Astoria. These natives,
+not doubting that we were lost, so reported us to Mr. M'Dougal;
+accordingly that gentleman was equally overjoyed and astonished at
+beholding us safely landed, which procured, not only for us, but for the
+culprits, our companions, a cordial and hearty reception.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior.--Occupations at
+     Astoria.--Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert
+     M'Lellan.--Account of their Journey.--Arrival of Mr. Wilson P.
+     Hunt.
+
+
+The natives having given us to understand that beaver was very abundant
+in the country watered by the Willamet, Mr. R. Stuart procured a guide,
+and set out, on the 5th of December, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet and
+M'Gillis and a few of the men, to ascend that river and ascertain
+whether or no it would be advisable to establish a trading-post on its
+banks. Mr. R. Bruguier accompanied them to follow his pursuits as a
+trapper.
+
+The season at which we expected the return of the Tonquin was now past,
+and we began to regard as too probable the report of the Indians of
+Gray's Harbor. We still flattered ourselves, notwithstanding, with the
+hope that perhaps that vessel had sailed for the East Indies, without
+touching at Astoria; but this was at most a conjecture.
+
+The 25th, Christmas-day, passed very agreeably: we treated the men, on
+that day, with the best the establishment afforded. Although that was no
+great affair, they seemed well satisfied; for they had been restricted,
+during the last few months, to a very meagre diet, living, as one may
+say, on sun-dried fish. On the 27th, the schooner having returned from
+her second voyage up the river, we dismantled her, and laid her up for
+the winter at the entrance of a small creek.
+
+The weather, which had been raining, almost without interruption, from
+the beginning of October, cleared up on the evening of the 31st; and the
+1st January, 1812, brought us a clear and serene sky. We proclaimed the
+new year with a discharge of artillery. A small allowance of spirits was
+served to the men, and the day passed in gayety, every one amusing
+himself as well as he could.
+
+The festival over, our people resumed their ordinary occupations: while
+some cut timber for building, and others made charcoal for the
+blacksmith, the carpenter constructed a barge, and the cooper made
+barrels for the use of the posts we proposed to establish in the
+interior. On the 18th, in the evening, two canoes full of white men
+arrived at the establishment. Mr. M'Dougal, the resident agent, being
+confined to his room by sickness, the duty of receiving the strangers
+devolved on me. My astonishment was not slight, when one of the party
+called me by name, as he extended his hand, and I recognised Mr. Donald
+M'Kenzie, the same who had quitted Montreal, with Mr. W.P. Hunt, in the
+month of July, 1810. He was accompanied by a Mr. Robert M'Lellan, a
+partner, Mr. John Reed, a clerk, and eight _voyageurs_, or boatmen.
+After having reposed themselves a little from their fatigues, these
+gentlemen recounted to us the history of their journey, of which the
+following is the substance.
+
+Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie, quitting Canada, proceeded by way of
+Mackinac and St. Louis, and ascended the Missouri, in the autumn of
+1810, to a place on that river called _Nadoway_, where they wintered.
+Here they were joined by Mr. R. M'Lellan, by a Mr. Crooks, and a Mr.
+Mueller, traders with the Indians of the South, and all having business
+relations with Mr. Astor.
+
+In the spring of 1811, having procured two large keel-boats, they
+ascended the Missouri to the country of the _Arikaras_, or Rice Indians,
+where they disposed of their boats and a great part of their luggage, to
+a Spanish trader, by name _Manuel Lisa_. Having purchased of him, and
+among the Indians, 130 horses, they resumed their route, in the
+beginning of August, to the number of some sixty-five persons, to
+proceed across the mountains to the river Columbia. Wishing to avoid the
+_Blackfeet_ Indians, a warlike and ferocious tribe, who put to death all
+the strangers that fall into their hands, they directed their course
+southwardly, until they arrived at the 40th degree of latitude. Thence
+they turned to the northwest, and arrived, by-and-by, at an old fort,
+or trading post, on the banks of a little river flowing west. This post,
+which was then deserted, had been established, as they afterward
+learned, by a trader named Henry. Our people, not doubting that this
+stream would conduct them to the Columbia, and finding it navigable,
+constructed some canoes to descend it. Having left some hunters (or
+trappers) near the old fort, with Mr. Miller, who, dissatisfied with the
+expedition, was resolved to return to the United States, the party
+embarked; but very soon finding the river obstructed with rapids and
+waterfalls, after having upset some of the canoes, lost one man by
+drowning, and also a part of their baggage, perceiving that the stream
+was impracticable, they resolved to abandon their canoes and proceed on
+foot. The enterprise was one of great difficulty, considering the small
+stock of provisions they had left. Nevertheless, as there was no time to
+lose in deliberation, after depositing in a _cache_ the superfluous part
+of their baggage, they divided themselves into four companies, under
+the command of Messrs. M'Kenzie, Hunt, M'Lellan and Crooks, and
+proceeded to follow the course of the stream, which they named _Mad
+river_, on account of the insurmountable difficulties it presented.
+Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan took the right bank, and Messrs. Hunt and
+Crook the left. They counted on arriving very quickly at the Columbia;
+but they followed this Mad river for twenty days, finding nothing at all
+to eat, and suffering horribly from thirst. The rocks between which the
+river flows being so steep and abrupt as to prevent their descending to
+quench their thirst (so that even their dogs died of it), they suffered
+the torments of Tantalus, with this difference, that he had the water
+which he could not reach above his head, while our travellers had it
+beneath their feet. Several, not to die of this raging thirst, drank
+their own urine: all, to appease the cravings of hunger, ate beaver
+skins roasted in the evening at the camp-fire. They even were at last
+constrained to eat their moccasins. Those on the or southeast bank,
+suffered, however, less than the others, because they occasionally fell
+in with Indians, utterly wild indeed, and who fled at their approach,
+carrying off their horses. According to all appearances these savages
+had never seen white men. Our travellers, when they arrived in sight of
+the camp of one of these wandering hordes, approached it with as much
+precaution, and with the same stratagem that they would have used with a
+troop of wild beasts. Having thus surprised them, they would fire upon
+the horses, some of which would fall; but they took care to leave some
+trinkets on the spot, to indemnify the owners for what they had taken
+from them by violence. This resource prevented the party from perishing
+of hunger.
+
+Mr. M'Kenzie having overtaken Mr. M'Lellan, their two companies pursued
+the journey together. Very soon after this junction, they had an
+opportunity of approaching sufficiently near to Mr. Hunt, who, as I have
+remarked, was on the other bank, to speak to him, and inform him of
+their distressed state. Mr. Hunt caused a canoe to be made of a
+horse-hide; it was not, as one may suppose, very large; but they
+succeeded, nevertheless, by that means, in conveying a little
+horse-flesh to the people on the north bank. It was attempted, even, to
+pass them across, one by one (for the skiff would not hold any more);
+several had actually crossed to the south side, when, unhappily, owing
+to the impetuosity of the current, the canoe capsized, a man was
+drowned, and the two parties lost all hope of being able to unite. They
+continued their route, therefore, each on their own side of the river.
+In a short time those upon the north bank came to a more considerable
+stream, which they followed down. They also met, very opportunely, some
+Indians, who sold them a number of horses. They also encountered, in
+these parts, a young American, who was deranged, but who sometimes
+recovered his reason. This young man told them, in one of his lucid
+intervals, that he was from Connecticut, and was named Archibald Pelton;
+that he had come up the Missouri with Mr. Henry; that all the people at
+the post established by that trader were massacred by the Blackfeet;
+that he alone had escaped, and had been wandering, for three years
+since, with the _Snake_ Indians.[L] Our people took this young man with
+them. Arriving at the confluence with the Columbia, of the river whose
+banks they were following, they perceived that it was the same which had
+been called _Lewis river_, by the American captain of that name, in
+1805. Here, then, they exchanged their remaining horses for canoes, and
+so arrived at the establishment, safe and sound, it is true, but in a
+pitiable condition to see; their clothes being nothing but fluttering
+rags.
+
+[Footnote L: A thoroughly savage and lazy tribe, inhabiting the plains
+of the Columbia, between the 43d and 44th degrees of latitude.]
+
+The narrative of these gentlemen interested us very much. They added,
+that since their separation from Messrs. Hunt and Crooks, they had
+neither seen nor heard aught of them, and believed it impossible that
+they should arrive at the establishment before spring. They were
+mistaken, however, for Mr. Hunt arrived on the 15th February, with
+thirty men, one woman, and two children, having left Mr. Crooks, with
+five men, among the _Snakes_. They might have reached Astoria almost as
+soon as Mr. M'Kenzie, but they had passed from eight to ten days in the
+midst of a plain, among some friendly Indians, as well to recruit their
+strength, as to make search for two of the party, who had been lost in
+the woods. Not finding them, they had resumed their journey, and struck
+the banks of the Columbia a little lower down than the mouth of Lewis
+river, where Mr. M'Kenzie had come out.
+
+The arrival of so great a number of persons would have embarrassed us,
+had it taken place a month sooner. Happily, at this time, the natives
+were bringing in fresh fish in abundance. Until the 30th of March, we
+were occupied in preparing triplicates of letters and other necessary
+papers, in order to send Mr. Astor the news of our arrival, and of the
+reunion of the two expeditions. The letters were intrusted to Mr. John
+Reed, who quitted Astoria for St. Louis, in company with Mr.
+M'Lellan--another discontented partner, who wished to disconnect himself
+with the association,--and Mr. R. Stuart, who was conveying two
+canoe-loads of goods for his uncle's post on the _Okenakan_. Messrs.
+Farnham and M'Gillis set out at the same time, with a guide, and were
+instructed to proceed to the _cache_,[M] where the overland travellers
+had hidden their goods, near old Fort Henry, on the Mad river. I
+profited by this opportunity to write to my family in Canada. Two days
+after, Messrs. M'Kenzie and Matthews set out, with five or six men, as
+hunters, to make an excursion up the Willamet river.
+
+[Footnote M: These _caches_ are famous in all the narratives of overland
+travel, whether for trade or discovery. The manner of making them is
+described by Captains Lewis and Clarke, as follows: they choose a dry
+situation, then describing a circle of some twenty inches diameter,
+remove the sod as gently and carefully as possible. The hole is then
+sunk a foot deep or more, perpendicularly; it is then worked gradually
+wider as it descends, till it becomes six or seven feet deep, and shaped
+like a kettle, or the lower part of a large still. As the earth is dug
+out, it is handed up in a vessel, and carefully laid upon a skin or
+cloth, in which it is carried away, and usually thrown into the river,
+if there be one, or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of
+three or four inches thick is then made of dry sticks, on which is
+thrown hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods, after being well aired
+and dried, are laid down, and preserved from contact with the wall by a
+layer of other dried sticks, till all is stowed away. When the hole is
+nearly full, a hide is laid on top, and the earth is thrown upon this,
+and beaten down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the
+whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest
+appearance of an excavation. The first shower effaces every sign of what
+has been done, and such a cache is safe for years.--ED.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Arrival of the Ship Beaver.--Unexpected Return of Messrs. D.
+     Stuart, R. Stuart, M'Lelland, &c.--Cause of that Return.--Ship
+     discharging.--New Expeditions.--Hostile Attitude of the
+     Natives.--Departure of the Beaver.--Journeys of the Author.--His
+     Occupations at the Establishment.
+
+
+From the departure of the last outfit under Mr. M'Kenzie, nothing
+remarkable took place at Astoria, till the 9th of May. On that day we
+descried, to our great surprise and great joy, a sail in the offing,
+opposite the mouth of the river. Forthwith Mr. M'Dougal was despatched
+in a boat to the cape, to make the signals. On the morning of the 10th,
+the weather being fine and the sea smooth, the boat pushed out and
+arrived safely alongside. Soon after, the wind springing up, the vessel
+made sail and entered the river, where she dropped anchor, in Baker's
+Bay, at about 2 P.M. Toward evening the boat returned to the Fort, with
+the following passengers: Messrs. John Clarke of Canada (a wintering
+partner), Alfred Seton, George Ehnainger, a nephew of Mr. Astor
+(clerks), and two men. We learned from these gentlemen that the vessel
+was the _Beaver_, Captain _Cornelius Sowles_, and was consigned to us;
+that she left New York on the 10th of October, and had touched, in the
+passage, at _Massa Fuero_ and the Sandwich Isles. Mr. Clarke handed me
+letters from my father and from several of my friends: I thus learned
+that death had deprived me of a beloved sister.
+
+On the morning of the 11th, we were strangely surprised by the return of
+Messrs. D. Stuart, R. Stuart, R. M'Lelland, Crooks, Reed, and Farnham.
+This return, as sudden as unlooked for, was owing to an unfortunate
+adventure which befell the party, in ascending the river. When they
+reached the Falls, where the portage is very long, some natives came
+with their horses, to offer their aid in transporting the goods. Mr. R.
+Stuart, not distrusting them, confided to their care some bales of
+merchandise, which they packed on their horses: but, in making the
+transit, they darted up a narrow path among the rocks, and fled at full
+gallop toward the prairie, without its being possible to overtake them.
+Mr. Stuart had several shots fired over their heads, to frighten them,
+but it had no other effect than to increase their speed. Meanwhile our
+own people continued the transportation of the rest of the goods, and of
+the canoes; but as there was a great number of natives about, whom the
+success and impunity of those thieves had emboldened, Mr. Stuart thought
+it prudent to keep watch over the goods at the upper end of the portage,
+while Messrs. M'Lellan and Reed made the rear-guard. The last named
+gentleman, who carried, strapped to his shoulders, a tin box containing
+the letters and despatches for New York with which he was charged,
+happened to be at some distance from the former, and the Indians thought
+it a favorable opportunity to attack him and carry off his box, the
+brightness of which no doubt had tempted their cupidity. They threw
+themselves upon him so suddenly that he had no time to place himself on
+the defensive. After a short resistance, he received a blow on the head
+from a war club, which felled him to the ground, and the Indians seized
+upon their booty. Mr. M'Lellan perceiving what was done, fired his
+carabine at one of the robbers and made him bite the dust; the rest took
+to flight, but carried off the box notwithstanding. Mr. M'Lellan
+immediately ran up to Mr. Reed; but finding the latter motionless and
+bathed in blood, he hastened to rejoin Mr. Stuart, urging him to get
+away from these robbers and murderers. But Mr. Stuart, being a
+self-possessed and fearless man, would not proceed without ascertaining
+if Mr. Reed were really dead, or if he were, without carrying off his
+body; and notwithstanding the remonstrances of Mr. M'Lellan, taking his
+way back to the spot where the latter had left his companion, had not
+gone two hundred paces, when he met him coming toward them, holding his
+bleeding head with both hands.[N]
+
+[Footnote N: We were apprized of this unfortunate rencontre by natives
+from up the river, on the 15th of April, but disbelieved it. [It is
+curious to observe the want of military sagacity and precaution which
+characterized the operations of these traders, compared with the exact
+calculations of danger and the unfailing measures of defence, employed
+from the very outset by Captains Lewis and Clarke in the same country.
+There was one very audacious attempt at plunder made upon the latter;
+but besides that it cost the Indians a life or two, the latter lost
+property of their own far exceeding their booty. It is true that the
+American officers had a stronger force at their disposal than our
+merchants had, and that, too, consisting of experienced western hunters
+and veteran soldiers of the frontier; but it is not less interesting to
+note the difference, because it is easy to account for it.--J.V.H.]]
+
+The object of Mr. Reed's journey being defeated by the loss of his
+papers, he repaired, with the other gentlemen, to Mr. David Stuart's
+trading post, at Okenakan, whence they had all set out, in the beginning
+of May, to return to Astoria. Coming down the river, they fell in with
+Mr. R. Crooks, and a man named _John Day_. It was observed in the
+preceding chapter that Mr. Crooks remained with five men among some
+Indians who were there termed _friendly_: but this gentleman and his
+companion were the only members of that party who ever reached the
+establishment: and they too arrived in a most pitiable condition, the
+savages having stripped them of everything, leaving them but some bits
+of deerskin to cover their nakedness.
+
+On the 12th, the schooner, which had been sent down the river to the
+Beaver's anchorage, returned with a cargo (being the stores intended for
+Astoria), and the following passengers: to wit, Messrs. B. Clapp, J.C.
+Halsey, C.A. Nichols, and R. Cox, clerks; five Canadians, seven
+Americans (all mechanics), and a dozen Sandwich-islanders for the
+service of the establishment. The captain of the Beaver sounded the
+channel diligently for several days; but finding it scarcely deep enough
+for so large a vessel, he was unwilling to bring her up to Astoria. It
+was necessary, in consequence, to use the schooner as a lighter in
+discharging the ship, and this tedious operation occupied us during the
+balance of this month and a part of June.
+
+Captain Sowles and Mr. Clarke confirmed the report of the destruction of
+the Tonquin; they had learned it at Owhyhee, by means of a letter which
+a certain Captain Ebbetts, in the employ of Mr. Astor, had left there.
+It was nevertheless resolved that Mr. Hunt should embark upon the
+"Beaver," to carry out the plan of an exact commercial survey of the
+coast, which Mr. M'Kay had been sent to accomplish, and in particular to
+visit for that purpose the Russian establishments at Chitka sound.
+
+The necessary papers having been prepared anew, and being now ready to
+expedite, were confided to Mr. R. Stuart, who was to cross the continent
+in company with Messrs. Crooks and R. M'Lellan, partners dissatisfied
+with the enterprise, and who had made up their minds to return to the
+United States. Mr. Clark, accompanied by Messrs. Pillet, Donald,
+M'Lellan, Farnham and Cox, was fitted out at the same time, with a
+considerable assortment of merchandise, to form a new establishment on
+the _Spokan_ or Clarke's river. Mr. M'Kenzie, with Mr. Seton, was
+destined for the borders of _Lewis_ river: while Mr. David Stuart,
+reinforced by Messrs. Matthews and M'Gillis, was to explore the region
+lying north of his post at Okenakan. All these outfits being ready, with
+the canoes, boatmen, and hunters, the flotilla quitted Astoria on the
+30th of June, in the afternoon, having on board sixty-two persons. The
+sequel will show the result of the several expeditions.
+
+During the whole month of July, the natives (seeing us weakened no doubt
+by these outfits), manifested their hostile intentions so openly that we
+were obliged to be constantly on our guard. We constructed covered ways
+inside our palisades, and raised our bastions or towers another story.
+The alarm became so serious toward the latter end of the month that we
+doubled our sentries day and night, and never allowed more than two or
+three Indians at a time within our gates.
+
+The Beaver was ready to depart on her coasting voyage at the end of
+June, and on the 1st of July Mr. Hunt went on board: but westerly winds
+prevailing all that month, it was not till the 4th of August that she
+was able to get out of the river; being due again by the end of October
+to leave her surplus goods and take in our furs for market.
+
+The months of August and September were employed in finishing a house
+forty-five feet by thirty, shingled and perfectly tight, as a hospital
+for the sick, and lodging house for the mechanics.
+
+Experience having taught us that from the beginning of October to the
+end of January, provisions were brought in by the natives in very small
+quantity, it was thought expedient that I should proceed in the
+schooner, accompanied by Mr. Clapp, on a trading voyage up the river to
+secure a cargo of dried fish. We left Astoria on the 1st of October,
+with a small assortment of merchandise. The trip was highly successful:
+we found the game very abundant, killed a great quantity of swans,
+ducks, foxes, &c., and returned to Astoria on the 20th, with a part of
+our venison, wild fowl, and bear meat, besides seven hundred, and fifty
+smoked salmon, a quantity of the _Wapto_ root (so called by the
+natives), which is found a good substitute for potatoes, and four
+hundred and fifty skins of beaver and other animals of the furry tribe.
+
+The encouragement derived from this excursion, induced us to try a
+second, and I set off this time alone, that is, with a crew of five men
+only, and an Indian boy, son of the old chief Comcomly. This second
+voyage proved anything but agreeable. We experienced continual rains,
+and the game was much less abundant, while the natives had mostly left
+the river for their wintering grounds. I succeeded, nevertheless, in
+exchanging my goods for furs and dried fish, and a small supply of dried
+venison: and returned, on the 15th of November, to Astoria, where the
+want of fresh provisions began to be severely felt, so that several of
+the men were attacked with scurvy.
+
+Messrs. Halsey and Wallace having been sent on the 23d, with fourteen
+men, to establish a trading post on the Willamet, and Mr. M'Dougal being
+confined to his room by sickness, Mr. Clapp and I were left with the
+entire charge of the post at Astoria, and were each other's only
+resource for society. Happily Mr. Clapp was a man of amiable character,
+of a gay, lively humor, and agreeable conversation. In the intervals of
+our daily duties, we amused ourselves with music and reading; having
+some instruments and a choice library. Otherwise we should have passed
+our time in a state of insufferable ennui, at this rainy season, in the
+midst of the deep mud which surrounded us, and which interdicted the
+pleasure of a promenade outside the buildings.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     Uneasiness respecting the "Beaver."--News of the Declaration of War
+     between Great Britain and the United States.--Consequences of that
+     Intelligence.--Different Occurrences.--Arrival of two Canoes of the
+     Northwest Company.--Preparations for abandoning the
+     Country.--Postponement of Departure.--Arrangement with Mr. J.G.
+     M'Tavish.
+
+
+The months of October, November, and December passed away without any
+news of the "Beaver," and we began to fear that there had happened to
+her, as to the Tonquin, some disastrous accident. It will be seen, in
+the following chapter, why this vessel did not return to Astoria in the
+autumn of 1812.
+
+On the 15th of January, Mr. M'Kenzie arrived from the interior, having
+abandoned his trading establishment, after securing his stock of goods
+in a _cache_. Before his departure he had paid a visit to Mr. Clark on
+the Spokan, and while there had learned the news, which he came to
+announce to us, that hostilities had actually commenced between Great
+Britain and the United States. The news had been brought by some
+gentlemen of the Northwest Company, who handed to them a copy of the
+Proclamation of the President to that effect.
+
+When we learned this news, all of us at Astoria who were British
+subjects and Canadians, wished ourselves in Canada; but we could not
+entertain even the thought of transporting ourselves thither, at least
+immediately: we were separated from our country by an immense space; and
+the difficulties of the journey at this season were insuperable:
+besides, Mr. Astor's interests had to be consulted first. We held,
+therefore, a sort of council of war, to which the clerks of the factory
+were invited _pro forma_, as they had no voice in the deliberations.
+Having maturely weighed our situation; after having seriously considered
+that being almost to a man British subjects, we were trading,
+notwithstanding, under the American flag: and foreseeing the
+improbability, or rather, to cut the matter short, the impossibility
+that Mr. Astor could send us further supplies or reinforcements while
+the war lasted, as most of the ports of the United States would
+inevitably be blockaded by the British; we concluded to abandon the
+establishment in the ensuing spring, or at latest, in the beginning of
+the summer. We did not communicate these resolutions to the men, lest
+they should in consequence abandon their labor: but we discontinued,
+from that moment, our trade with the natives, except for provisions; as
+well because we had no longer a large stock of goods on hand, as for the
+reason that we had already more furs than we could carry away overland.
+
+So long as we expected the return of the vessel, we had served out to
+the people a regular supply of bread: we found ourselves in consequence,
+very short of provisions, on the arrival of Mr. M'Kenzie and his men.
+This augmentation in the number of mouths to be fed compelled us to
+reduce the ration of each man to four ounces of flour and half a pound
+of dried fish _per diem_: and even to send a portion of the hands to
+pass the rest of the winter with Messrs. Wallace and Halsey on the
+Willamet, where game was plenty.
+
+Meanwhile, the sturgeon having begun to enter the river, I left, on the
+13th of February, to fish for them; and on the 15th sent the first
+boat-load to the establishment; which proved a very timely succor to the
+men, who for several days had broken off work from want of sufficient
+food. I formed a camp near Oak Point, whence I continued to despatch
+canoe after canoe of fine fresh fish to Astoria, and Mr. M'Dougal sent
+to me thither all the men who were sick of scurvy, for the
+re-establishment of their health.
+
+On the 20th of March, Messrs. Reed and Seton, who had led a part of our
+men to the post on the Willamet, to subsist them, returned to Astoria,
+with a supply of dried venison. These gentlemen spoke to us in glowing
+terms of the country of the Willamet as charming, and abounding in
+beaver, elk, and deer; and informed us that Messrs. Wallace and Halsey
+had constructed a dwelling and trading house, on a great prairie, about
+one hundred and fifty miles from the confluence of that river with the
+Columbia. Mr. M'Kenzie and his party quitted us again on the 31st, to
+make known the resolutions recently adopted at Astoria, to the gentlemen
+who were wintering in the interior.
+
+On the 11th of April two birch-bark canoes, bearing the British flag,
+arrived at the factory. They were commanded by Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish and
+Joseph Laroque, and manned by nineteen Canadian _voyageurs_. They landed
+on a point of land under the guns of the fort, and formed their camp. We
+invited these gentlemen to our quarters and learned from them the object
+of their visit. They had come to await the arrival of the ship _Isaac
+Todd_, despatched from Canada by the Northwest Company, in October,
+1811, with furs, and from England in March, 1812, with a cargo of
+suitable merchandise for the Indian trade. They had orders to wait at
+the mouth of the Columbia till the month of July, and then to return, if
+the vessel did not make her appearance by that time. They also informed
+us that the natives near Lewis river had shown them fowling-pieces,
+gun-flints, lead, and powder; and that they had communicated this news
+to Mr. M'Kenzie, presuming that the Indians had discovered and plundered
+his _cache_; which turned out afterward to be the case.
+
+The month of May was occupied in preparations for our departure from the
+Columbia. On the 25th, Messrs. Wallace and Halsey returned from their
+winter quarters with seventeen packs of furs, and thirty-two bales of
+dried venison. The last article was received with a great deal of
+pleasure, as it would infallibly be needed for the journey we were about
+to undertake. Messrs. Clarke, D. Stuart and M'Kenzie also arrived, in
+the beginning of June, with one hundred and forty packs of furs, the
+fruit of two years' trade at the post on the _Okenakan_, and one year on
+the _Spokan_.[O]
+
+[Footnote O: The profits of the last establishment were slender; because
+the people engaged at it were obliged to subsist on horse-flesh, and
+they ate ninety horses during the winter.]
+
+The wintering partners (that is to say, Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart)
+dissenting from the proposal to abandon the country as soon as we
+intended, the thing being (as they observed) impracticable, from the
+want of provisions for the journey and horses to transport the goods;
+the project was deferred, as to its execution, till the following April.
+So these gentlemen, having taken a new lot of merchandise, set out again
+for their trading posts on the 7th of July. But Mr. M'Kenzie, whose
+goods had been pillaged by the natives (it will be remembered), remained
+at Astoria, and was occupied with the care of collecting as great a
+quantity as possible of dried salmon from the Indians. He made seven or
+eight voyages up the river for that purpose, while we at the Fort were
+busy in baling the beaver-skins and other furs, in suitable packs for
+horses to carry. Mr. Reed, in the meantime, was sent on to the
+mountain-passes where Mr. Miller had been left with the trappers, to
+winter, there, and to procure as many horses as he could from the
+natives for our use in the contemplated journey. He was furnished for
+this expedition with three Canadians, and a half-breed hunter named
+_Daion_, the latter accompanied by his wife and two children. This man
+came from the lower Missouri with Mr. Hunt in 1811-'12.
+
+Our object being to provide ourselves, before quitting the country, with
+the food and horses necessary for the journey; in order to avoid all
+opposition on the part of the Northwest Company, we entered into an
+arrangement with Mr. M'Tavish. This gentleman having represented to us
+that he was destitute of the necessary goods to procure wherewith to
+subsist his party on their way homeward, we supplied him from our
+warehouse, payment to be made us in the ensuing spring, either in furs
+or in bills of exchange on their house in Canada.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     Arrival of the Ship "Albatross."--Reasons for the Non-Appearance of
+     the Beaver at Astoria.--Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a
+     Former Occasion.--Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the
+     Resolution of the Partners.--His Departure.--Narrative of the
+     Destruction of the Tonquin.--Causes of that Disaster.--Reflections.
+
+
+On the 4th of August, contrary to all expectation, we saw a sail at the
+mouth of the river. One of our gentlemen immediately got into the barge,
+to ascertain her nationality and object: but before he had fairly
+crossed the river, we saw her pass the bar and direct her course toward
+Astoria, as if she were commanded by a captain to whom the intricacies
+of the channel were familiar. I had stayed at the Fort with Mr. Clapp
+and four men. As soon as we had recognised the American flag, not
+doubting any longer that it was a ship destined for the factory, we
+saluted her with three guns. She came to anchor over against the fort,
+but on the opposite side of the river, and returned our salute. In a
+short time after, we saw, or rather we heard, the oars of a boat (for it
+was already night) that came toward us. We expected her approach with
+impatience, to know who the stranger was, and what news she brought us.
+Soon we were relieved from our uncertainty by the appearance of Mr.
+Hunt, who informed us that the ship was called the _Albatross_ and was
+commanded by Captain _Smith_.
+
+It will be remembered that Mr. Hunt had sailed from Astoria on board the
+"Beaver," on the 4th of August of the preceding year, and should have
+returned with that vessel, in the month of October of the same year. We
+testified to him our surprise that he had not returned at the time
+appointed, and expressed the fears which we had entertained in regard to
+his fate, as well as that of the Beaver itself: and in reply he
+explained to us the reasons why neither he nor Captain Sowles had been
+able to fulfil the promise which they had made us.
+
+After having got clear of the river Columbia, they had scudded to the
+north, and had repaired to the Russian post of Chitka, where they had
+exchanged a part of their goods for furs. They had made with the
+governor of that establishment, Barnoff by name, arrangements to supply
+him regularly with all the goods of which he had need, and to send him
+every year a vessel for that purpose, as well as for the transportation
+of his surplus furs to the East Indies. They had then advanced still
+further to the north, to the coast of _Kamskatka_; and being there
+informed that some Kodiak hunters had been left on some adjacent isles,
+called the islands of St. Peter and St. Paul, and that these hunters had
+not been visited for three years, they determined to go thither, and
+having reached those isles, they opened a brisk trade, and secured no
+less than eighty thousand skins of the South-sea seal. These operations
+had consumed a great deal of time; the season was already far advanced;
+ice was forming around them, and it was not without having incurred
+considerable dangers that they succeeded in making their way out of
+those latitudes. Having extricated themselves from the frozen seas of
+the north, but in a shattered condition, they deemed it more prudent to
+run for the Sandwich isles, where they arrived after enduring a
+succession of severe gales. Here Mr. Hunt disembarked, with the men who
+had accompanied him, and who did not form a part of the ship's crew; and
+the vessel, after undergoing the necessary repairs, set sail for Canton.
+
+Mr. Hunt had then passed nearly six months at the Sandwich islands,
+expecting the annual ship from New York, and never imagining that war
+had been declared. But at last, weary of waiting so long to no purpose,
+he had bought a small schooner of one of the chiefs of the isle of
+Wahoo, and was engaged in getting her ready to sail for the mouth of the
+Columbia, when four sails hove in sight, and presently came to anchor in
+_Ohetity bay_. He immediately, went on board of one of them, and learned
+that they came from the Indies, whence they had sailed precipitately, to
+avoid the English cruisers. He also learned from the captain of the
+vessel he boarded, that the Beaver had arrived in Canton some days
+before the news of the declaration of war. This Captain Smith, moreover,
+had on board some cases of nankeens and other goods shipped by Mr.
+Astor's agent at Canton for us. Mr. Hunt then chartered the Albatross to
+take him with his people and the goods to the Columbia. That gentleman
+had not been idle during the time that he sojourned at Wahoo: he brought
+us 35 barrels of salt pork or beef, nine tierces of rice, a great
+quantity of dried _Taro_, and a good supply of salt.
+
+As I knew the channel of the river, I went on board the Albatross, and
+piloted her to the old anchorage of the Tonquin, under the guns of the
+Fort, in order to facilitate the landing of the goods.
+
+Captain Smith informed us that in 1810, a year before the founding of
+our establishment, he had entered the river in the same vessel, and
+ascended it in boats as far as Oak Point; and that he had attempted to
+form an establishment there; but the spot which he chose for building,
+and on which he had even commenced fencing for a garden, being
+overflowed in the summer freshet, he had been forced to abandon his
+project and re-embark. We had seen, in fact, at Oak Point, some traces
+of this projected establishment. The bold manner in which this captain
+had entered the river was now accounted for.
+
+Captain Smith had chartered his vessel to a Frenchman named _Demestre_,
+who was then a passenger on board of her, to go and take a cargo of
+sandal wood at the _Marquesas_, where that gentleman had left some men
+to collect it, the year before. He could not, therefore, comply with the
+request we made him, to remain during the summer with us, in order to
+transport our goods and people, as soon as they could be got together,
+to the Sandwich islands.
+
+Mr. Hunt was surprised beyond measure, when we informed him of the
+resolution we had taken of abandoning the country: he blamed us severely
+for having acted with so much precipitation, pointing out that the
+success of the late coasting voyage, and the arrangements we had made
+with the Russians, promised a most advantageous trade, which it was a
+thousand pities to sacrifice, and lose the fruits of the hardships he
+had endured and the dangers he had braved, at one fell swoop, by this
+rash measure. Nevertheless, seeing the partners were determined to abide
+by their first resolution, and not being able, by himself alone, to
+fulfil his engagements to Governor Barnoff, he consented to embark once
+more, in order to seek a vessel to transport our heavy goods, and such
+of us as wished to return by sea. He sailed, in fact, on the Albatross,
+at the end of the month. My friend Clapp embarked with him: they were,
+in the first instance, to run down the coast of California, in the hope
+of meeting there some of the American vessels which frequently visit
+that coast to obtain provisions from the Spaniards.
+
+Some days after the departure of Mr. Hunt, the old one-eyed chief
+Comcomly came to tell us that an Indian of _Gray's Harbor_, who had
+sailed on the Tonquin in 1811, and who was the only soul that had
+escaped the massacre of the crew of that unfortunate vessel, had
+returned to his tribe. As the distance from the River Columbia to Gray's
+Harbor was not great, we sent for this native. At first he made
+considerable difficulty about following our people, but was finally
+persuaded. He arrived at Astoria, and related to us the circumstances of
+that sad catastrophe, nearly as follows:[P]
+
+"After I had embarked on the Tonquin," said he, "that vessel sailed for
+_Nootka_.[Q] Having arrived opposite a large village called _Newity_, we
+dropped anchor. The natives having invited Mr. M'Kay to land, he did so,
+and was received in the most cordial manner: they even kept him several
+days at their village, and made him lie, every night, on a couch of
+sea-otter skins. Meanwhile the captain was engaged in trading with such
+of the natives as resorted to his ship: but having had a difficulty with
+one of the principal chiefs in regard to the price of certain goods, he
+ended by putting the latter out of the ship, and in the act of so
+repelling him, struck him on the face with the roll of furs which he had
+brought to trade. This act was regarded by that chief and his followers
+as the most grievous insult, and they resolved to take vengeance for it.
+To arrive more surely at their purpose, they dissembled their
+resentment, and came, as usual, on board the ship. One day, very early
+in the morning, a large pirogue, containing about a score of natives,
+came alongside: every man had in his hand a packet of furs, and held it
+over his head as a sign that they came to trade. The watch let them come
+on deck. A little after, arrived a second pirogue, carrying about as
+many men as the other. The sailors believed that these also came to
+exchange their furs, and allowed them to mount the ship's side like the
+first. Very soon, the pirogues thus succeeding one another, the crew
+saw themselves surrounded by a multitude of savages, who came upon the
+deck from all sides. Becoming alarmed at the appearance of things, they
+went to apprize the captain and Mr. M'Kay, who hastened to the poop. I
+was with them," said the narrator, "and fearing, from the great
+multitude of Indians whom I saw already on the deck, and from the
+movements of those on shore, who were hurrying to embark in their
+canoes, to approach the vessel, and from the women being left in charge
+of the canoes of those who had arrived, that some evil design was on
+foot, I communicated my suspicions to Mr. M'Kay, who himself spoke to
+the captain. The latter affected an air of security, and said that with
+the firearms on board, there was no reason to fear even a greater number
+of Indians. Meanwhile these gentlemen had come on deck unarmed, without
+even their sidearms. The trade, nevertheless, did not advance; the
+Indians offered less than was asked, and pressing with their furs close
+to the captain, Mr. M'Kay, and Mr. Lewis, repeated the word _Makoke!
+Makoke!_ "Trade! Trade!" I urged the gentlemen to put to sea, and the
+captain, at last, seeing the number of Indians increase every moment,
+allowed himself to be persuaded: he ordered a part of the crew to raise
+the anchor, and the rest to go aloft and unfurl the sails. At the same
+time he warned the natives to withdraw, as the ship was going to sea. A
+fresh breeze was then springing up, and in a few moments more their prey
+would have escaped them; but immediately on receiving this notice, by a
+preconcerted signal, the Indians, with a terrific yell, drew forth the
+knives and war-bludgeons they had concealed in their bundles of furs,
+and rushed upon the crew of the ship. Mr. Lewis was struck, and fell
+over a bale of blankets. Mr. M'Kay, however, was the first victim whom
+they sacrificed to their fury. Two savages, whom, from the crown of the
+poop, where I was seated, I had seen follow this gentleman step by step,
+now cast themselves upon him, and having given him a blow on the head
+with a _potumagan_ (a kind of sabre which is described a little below),
+felled him to the deck, then took him up and flung him into the sea,
+where the women left in charge of the canoes, quickly finished him with
+their paddles. Another set flung themselves upon the captain, who
+defended himself for a long time with his pocket-knife, but, overpowered
+by numbers, perished also under the blows of these murderers. I next saw
+(and that was the last occurrence of which I was witness before quitting
+the ship) the sailors who were aloft, slip down by the rigging, and get
+below through the steerage hatchway. They were five, I think, in number,
+and one of them, in descending, received a knife-stab in the back. I
+then jumped overboard, to escape a similar fate to that of the captain
+and Mr. M'Kay: the women in the canoes, to whom I surrendered myself as
+a slave, took me in, and bade me hide myself under some mats which were
+in the pirogues; which I did. Soon after, I heard the discharge of
+firearms, immediately upon which the Indians fled from the vessel, and
+pulled for the shore as fast as possible, nor did they venture to go
+alongside the ship again the whole of that day. The next day, haying
+seen four men lower a boat, and pull away from the ship, they sent some
+pirogues in chase: but whether those men were overtaken and murdered, or
+gained the open sea and perished there, I never could learn. Nothing
+more was seen stirring on board the Tonquin; the natives pulled
+cautiously around her, and some of the more daring went on board; at
+last, the savages, finding themselves absolute masters of the ship,
+rushed on board in a crowd to pillage her. But very soon, when there
+were about four or five hundred either huddled together on deck, or
+clinging to the sides, all eager for plunder, the ship blew up with a
+horrible noise. "I was on the shore," said the Indian, "when the
+explosion took place, saw the great volume of smoke burst forth in the
+spot where the ship had been, and high in the air above, arms, legs,
+heads and bodies, flying in every direction. The tribe acknowledged a
+loss of over two hundred of their people on that occasion. As for me I
+remained their prisoner, and have been their slave for two years. It is
+but now that I have been ransomed by my friends. I have told you the
+truth, and hope you will acquit me of having in any way participated in
+that bloody affair."
+
+[Footnote P: It being understood, of course, that I render into
+civilized expressions the language of this barbarian, and represent by
+words and phrases what he could only convey by gestures or by signs.
+[The _naivete_ of those notes, and of the narrative in these passages,
+is amusing.--ED.]]
+
+[Footnote Q: A great village or encampment of Indians, among whom the
+Spaniards had sent missionaries under the conduct of Signor Quadra; but
+whence the latter were chased by Captain Vancouver, in 1792, as
+mentioned in the Introduction.]
+
+Our Indian having finished his discourse, we made him presents
+proportioned to the melancholy satisfaction he had given us in
+communicating the true history of the sad fate of our former companions,
+and to the trouble he had taken in coming to us; so that he returned
+apparently well satisfied with our liberality.
+
+According to the narrative of this Indian, Captain Thorn, by his abrupt
+manner and passionate temper, was the primary cause of his own death and
+that of all on board his vessel. What appears certain at least, is, that
+he was guilty of unpardonable negligence and imprudence, in not causing
+the boarding netting to be rigged, as is the custom of all the
+navigators who frequent this coast, and in suffering (contrary to his
+instructions) too great a number of Indians to come on board at once.[R]
+
+[Footnote R: It is equally evident that even at the time when Captain
+Thorn was first notified of the dangerous crowd and threatening
+appearance of the natives, a display of firearms would have sufficed to
+prevent an outbreak. Had he come on deck with Mr. M'Kay and Mr. Lewis,
+each armed with a musket, and a couple of pistols at the belt, it is
+plain from the timidity the savages afterward displayed, that he might
+have cleared the ship, probably without shedding a drop of blood.--ED.]
+
+Captain Smith, of the Albatross, who had seen the wreck of the Tonquin,
+in mentioning to us its sad fate, attributed the cause of the disaster
+to the rash conduct of a Captain Ayres, of Boston. That navigator had
+taken off, as I have mentioned already, ten or a dozen natives of
+New-itty, as hunters, with a promise of bringing them back to their
+country, which promise he inhumanly broke by leaving them on some desert
+islands in Sir Francis Drake's Bay. The countrymen of these
+unfortunates, indignant at the conduct of the American captain, had
+sworn to avenge themselves on the first white men who appeared among
+them. Chance willed it that our vessel was the first to enter that bay,
+and the natives but too well executed on our people their project of
+vengeance.
+
+Whatever may, have been the first and principal cause of this misfortune
+(for doubtless it is necessary to suppose more than one), seventeen
+white men and twelve Sandwich-Islanders, were massacred: not one escaped
+from the butchery, to bring us the news of it, but the Indian of _Gray's
+Harbor_. The massacre of our people was avenged, it is true, by the
+destruction of ten times the number of their murderers; but this
+circumstance, which could perhaps gladden the heart of a savage, was a
+feeble consolation (if it was any) for civilized men. The death of Mr.
+Alexander M'Kay was an irreparable loss to the Company, which would
+probably have been dissolved by the remaining partners, but for the
+arrival of the energetic Mr. Hunt. Interesting as was the recital of the
+Indian of Gray's Harbor throughout, when he came to the unhappy end of
+that estimable man, marks of regret were visibly painted on the
+countenances of all who listened.
+
+At the beginning of September, Mr. M'Kenzie set off, with Messrs.
+Wallace and Seton, to carry a supply of goods to the gentlemen wintering
+in the interior, as well as to inform them of the arrangements
+concluded with Mr. Hunt, and to enjoin them to send down all their furs,
+and all the Sandwich-Islanders, that the former might be shipped for
+America, and the latter sent back to their country.
+
+
+     NOTE.
+
+     It will never be known how or by whom the _Tonquin_ was blown up.
+     Some pretend to say that it was the work of James Lewis, but that
+     is impossible, for it appears from the narrative of the Indian that
+     he was one of the first persons murdered. It will be recollected
+     that five men got between decks from aloft, during the affray, and
+     four only were seen to quit the ship afterward in the boat. The
+     presumption was that the missing man must have done it, and in
+     further conversation with the Gray's Harbor Indian, he inclined to
+     that opinion, and even affirmed that the individual was the ship's
+     armorer, _Weeks_. It might also have been accidental. There was a
+     large quantity of powder in the run immediately under the cabin,
+     and it is not impossible that while the Indians were intent on
+     plunder, in opening some of the kegs they may have set fire to the
+     contents. Or again, the men, before quitting the ship, may have
+     lighted a slow train, which is the most likely supposition of all.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+     Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company.--Sale of
+     the Establishment at Astoria to that Company.--Canadian
+     News.--Arrival of the British Sloop-of-War "Raccoon."--Accident on
+     Board that Vessel.--The Captain takes Formal Possession of
+     Astoria.--Surprise and Discontent of the Officers and
+     Crew.--Departure of the "Raccoon."
+
+
+A few days after Mr. M'Kenzie left us, we were greatly surprised by the
+appearance of two canoes bearing the British flag, with a third between
+them, carrying the flag of the United States, all rounding Tongue Point.
+It was no other than Mr. M'Kenzie himself, returning with Messrs. J.G.
+M'Tavish and Angus Bethune, of the Northwest Company. He had met these
+gentlemen near the first rapids, and had determined to return with them
+to the establishment, in consequence of information which they gave him.
+Those gentlemen were in _light_ canoes (i.e., without any lading), and
+formed the vanguard to a flotilla of eight, loaded with furs, under the
+conduct of Messrs. John Stuart and M'Millan.
+
+Mr. M'Tavish came to our quarters at the factory, and showed Mr.
+M'Dougal a letter which had been addressed to the latter by Mr. Angus
+Shaw, his uncle, and one of the partners of the Northwest Company. Mr.
+Shaw informed his nephew that the ship _Isaac Todd_ had sailed from
+London, with letters of _marque_, in the month of March, in company with
+the frigate _Phoebe_, having orders from the government to seize our
+establishment, which had been represented to the lords of the admiralty
+as an important colony founded by the American government. The eight
+canoes left behind, came up meanwhile, and uniting themselves to the
+others, they formed a camp of about seventy-five men, at the bottom of a
+little bay or cove, near our factory. As they were destitute of
+provisions, we supplied them; but Messrs. M'Dougal and M'Kenzie
+affecting to dread a surprise from this British force under our guns,
+we kept strictly on our guard; for we were inferior in point of numbers,
+although our position was exceedingly advantageous.
+
+As the season advanced, and their ship did not arrive, our new neighbors
+found themselves in a very disagreeable situation, without food, or
+merchandise wherewith to procure it from the natives; viewed by the
+latter with a distrustful and hostile eye, as being our enemies and
+therefore exposed to attack and plunder on their part with impunity;
+supplied with good hunters, indeed, but wanting ammunition to render
+their skill available. Weary, at length, of applying to us incessantly
+for food (which we furnished them with a sparing hand), unable either to
+retrace their steps through the wilderness or to remain in their present
+position, they came to the conclusion of proposing to buy of us the
+whole establishment.
+
+Placed, as we were, in the situation of expecting, day by day, the
+arrival of an English ship-of-war to seize upon all we possessed, we
+listened to their propositions. Several meetings and discussions took
+place; the negotiations were protracted by the hope of one party that
+the long-expected armed force would arrive, to render the purchase
+unnecessary, and were urged forward by the other in order to conclude
+the affair before that occurrence should intervene; at length the price
+of the goods and furs in the factory was agreed upon, and the bargain
+was signed by both parties on the 23d of October. The gentlemen of the
+Northwest Company took possession of Astoria, agreeing to pay the
+servants of the Pacific Fur Company (the name which had been chosen by
+Mr. Astor), the arrears of their wages, to be deducted from the price of
+the goods which we delivered, to supply them with provisions, and give a
+free passage to those who wished to return to Canada over land. The
+American colors were hauled down from the factory, and the British run
+up, to the no small chagrin and mortification of those who were American
+citizens.
+
+It was thus, that after having passed the seas, and suffered all sorts
+of fatigues and privations, I lost in a moment all my hopes of fortune.
+I could not help remarking that we had no right to expect such
+treatment on the part of the British government, after the assurances we
+had received from Mr. Jackson, his majesty's _charge d'affaires_
+previously to our departure from New York. But as I have just intimated,
+the agents of the Northwest Company had exaggerated the importance of
+the factory in the eyes of the British ministry; for if the latter had
+known what it really was--a mere trading-post--and that nothing but the
+rivalry of the fur-traders of the Northwest Company was interested in
+its destruction, they would never have taken umbrage at it, or at least
+would never have sent a maritime expedition to destroy it. The sequel
+will show that I was not mistaken in this opinion.
+
+The greater part of the servants of the Pacific Fur Company entered the
+service of the Company of the Northwest: the rest preferred to return to
+their country, and I was of the number of these last. Nevertheless, Mr.
+M'Tavish, after many ineffectual attempts to persuade me to remain with
+them, having intimated that the establishment could not dispense with
+my services, as I was the only person who could assist them in their
+trade, especially for provisions, of which they would soon be in the
+greatest need, I agreed with them (without however relinquishing my
+previous engagement with Mr. Astor's agents) for five months, that is to
+say, till the departure of the expedition which was to ascend the
+Columbia in the spring, and reach Canada by way of the Rocky Mountains
+and the rivers of the interior. Messrs. John Stuart and M'Kenzie set off
+about the end of this month, for the interior, in order that the latter
+might make over to the former the posts established on the Spokan and
+Okenakan.
+
+On the 15th of November, Messrs. Alexander Stuart and Alexander Henry,
+both partners of the N.W. Company, arrived at the factory, in a couple
+of bark canoes manned by sixteen _voyageurs_. They had set out from
+_Fort William_, on Lake Superior, in the month of July. They brought us
+Canadian papers, by which we learned that the British arms so far had
+been in the ascendant. They confirmed also the news that an English
+frigate was coming to take possession of our quondam establishment; they
+were even surprised not to see the _Isaac Todd_ lying in the road.
+
+On the morning of the 30th, we saw a large vessel standing in under
+_Cape Disappointment_ (which proved in this instance to deserve its
+name); and soon after that vessel came to anchor in _Baker's bay_. Not
+knowing whether it was a friendly or a hostile sail, we thought it
+prudent to send on board Mr. M'Dougal in a canoe, manned by such of the
+men as had been previously in the service of the Pacific Fur Company,
+with injunctions to declare themselves Americans, if the vessel was
+American, and Englishmen in the contrary case. While this party was on
+its way, Mr. M'Tavish caused all the furs which were marked with the
+initials of the N.W. Company to be placed on board the two barges at the
+Fort, and sent them up the river above Tongue Point, where they were to
+wait for a concerted signal, that was to inform them whether the
+new-comers were friends or foes. Toward midnight, Mr. Halsey, who had
+accompanied Mr. M'Dougal to the vessel, returned to the Fort, and
+announced to us that she was the British sloop-of-war _Raccoon_, of 26
+guns, commanded by Captain Black, with a complement of 120 men, fore and
+aft. Mr. John M'Donald, a partner of the N.W. Company, was a passenger
+on the Raccoon, with five _voyageurs_, destined for the Company's
+service. He had left England in the frigate _Phoebe_, which had sailed
+in company with the _Isaac Todd_ as far as Rio Janeiro; but there
+falling in with the British squadron, the admiral changed the
+destination of the frigate, despatching the sloops-of-war _Raccoon_ and
+_Cherub_ to convoy the Isaac Todd, and sent the Phoebe to search for the
+American commodore Porter, who was then on the Pacific, capturing all
+the British whalers and other trading vessels he met with. These four
+vessels then sailed in company as far as Cape Horn, they parted, after
+agreeing on the island of _Juan Fernandez_ as a _rendezvous_. The three
+ships-of-war met, in fact, at that island; but after having a long time
+waited in vain for the _Isaac Todd_, Commodore Hillier (Hillyer?) who
+commanded this little squadron, hearing of the injury inflicted by
+Commodore Porter, on the British commerce, and especially on the whalers
+who frequent these seas, resolved to go in quest of him in order to give
+him combat; and retaining the _Cherub_ to assist him, detailed the
+Raccoon to go and destroy the American establishment on the River
+Columbia, being assured by Mr. M'Donald that a single sloop-of-war would
+be sufficient for that service.
+
+Mr. M'Donald had consequently embarked, with his people, on board the
+Raccoon. This gentleman informed us that they had experienced frightful
+weather in doubling the Cape, and that he entertained serious
+apprehensions for the safety of the Isaac Todd, but that if she was
+safe, we might expect her to arrive in the river in two or three weeks.
+The signal gun agreed upon, having been fired, for the return of the
+barges, Mr. M'Tavish came back to the Port with the furs, and was
+overjoyed to learn the arrival of Mr. M'Donald.
+
+On the 1st of December the Raccoon's gig came up to the fort, bringing
+Mr. M'Donald (surnamed _Bras Croche_, or crooked arm), and the first
+lieutenant, Mr. Sheriff. Both these gentlemen were convalescent from the
+effects, of an accident which had happened to them in the passage
+between Juan Fernandez and the mouth of the Columbia. The captain
+wishing to clean the guns, ordered them to be scaled, that is, fired
+off: during this exercise one of the guns hung fire; the sparks fell
+into a cartridge tub, and setting fire to the combustibles, communicated
+also to some priming horns suspended above; an explosion followed, which
+reached some twenty persons; eight were killed on the spot, the rest
+were severely burnt; Messrs. M'Donald and Sheriff had suffered a great
+deal; it was with difficulty that their clothes had been removed; and
+when the lieutenant came ashore, he had not recovered the use of his
+hands. Among the killed was an American named _Flatt_, who was in the
+service of the Northwest Company and whose loss these gentlemen appeared
+exceedingly to regret.
+
+As there were goods destined for the Company on board the Raccoon, the
+schooner _Dolly_ was sent to Baker's bay to bring them up: but the
+weather was so bad, and the wind so violent that she did not return till
+the 12th, bringing up, together with the goods, Captain Black, a
+lieutenant of marines, four soldiers and as many sailors. We entertained
+our guests as splendidly as it lay in our power to do. After dinner, the
+captain caused firearms to be given to the servants of the Company, and
+we all marched under arms to the square or platform, where a flag-staff
+had been erected. There the captain took a British Union Jack, which he
+had brought on shore for the occasion, and caused it to be run up to the
+top of the staff; then, taking a bottle of Madeira wine, he broke it on
+the flag-staff, declaring in a loud voice, that he took possession of
+the establishment and of the country in the name of His Britannic
+Majesty; and changed the name of Astoria to _Fort George_. Some few
+Indian chiefs had been got together to witness this ceremony, and I
+explained to them in their own language what it signified. Three rounds
+of artillery and musketry were fired, and the health of the king was
+drunk by the parties interested, according to the usage on like
+occasions.
+
+The sloop being detained by contrary winds, the captain caused an exact
+survey to be made of the entrance of the river, as well as of the
+navigable channel between Baker's bay and Fort George. The officers
+visited the fort, turn about, and seemed to me in general very much
+dissatisfied with their fool's errand, as they called it: they had
+expected to find a number of American vessels loaded with rich furs, and
+had calculated in advance their share in the booty of Astoria. They had
+not met a vessel, and their astonishment was at its height when they saw
+that our establishment had been transferred to the Northwest Company,
+and was under the British flag. It will suffice to quote a single
+expression of Captain Black's, in order to show how much they were
+deceived in their expectations. The Captain landed after dark; when we
+showed him the next morning the palisades and log bastions of the
+factory, he inquired if there was not another fort; on being assured
+that there was no other, he cried out, with an air of the greatest
+astonishment:--"What! is this the fort which was represented to me as so
+formidable! Good God! I could batter it down in two hours with a
+four-pounder!"
+
+There were on board the Raccoon two young men from Canada, who had been
+impressed at Quebec, when that vessel was there some years before her
+voyage to the Columbia: one of them was named _Parent_, a blacksmith,
+and was of Quebec: the other was from Upper Canada, and was named
+M'Donald. These young persons signified to us that they would be glad to
+remain at Fort George: and as there was among our men some who would
+gladly have shipped, we proposed to the captain an exchange, but he
+would not consent to it. John Little, a boat-builder from New York, who
+had been on the sick list a long time, was sent on board and placed
+under the care of the sloop's surgeon, Mr. O'Brien; the captain engaging
+to land him at the Sandwich Islands. P.D. Jeremie also shipped himself
+as under clerk. The vessel hoisted sail, and got out of the river, on
+the 31st of December.
+
+From the account given in this chapter the reader will see with what
+facility the establishment of the Pacific Fur Company could have escaped
+capture by the British force. It was only necessary to get rid of the
+land party of the Northwest Company--who were completely in our
+power--then remove our effects up the river upon some small stream, and
+await the result. The sloop-of-war arrived, it is true; but as, in the
+case I suppose, she would have found nothing, she would have left, after
+setting fire to our deserted houses. None of their boats would have
+dared follow us, even if the Indians had betrayed to them our
+lurking-place. Those at the head of affairs had their own fortunes to
+seek, and thought it more for their interest, doubtless, to act as they
+did, but that will not clear them in the eyes of the world, and the
+charge of treason to Mr. Astor's interests will always be attached to
+their characters.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     Expeditions to the Interior.--Return of Messrs. John Stuart and D.
+     M'Kenzie.--Theft committed by the Natives.--War Party against the
+     Thieves.
+
+
+On the 3d of January, 1814, two canoes laden with merchandise for the
+interior, were despatched under the command of Mr. Alexander Stuart and
+Mr. James Keith, with fifteen men under them. Two of the latter were
+charged with letters for the posts (of the Northwest Company) east of
+the mountains, containing instructions to the persons in superintendence
+there, to have in readiness canoes and the requisite provisions for a
+large party intending to go east the ensuing spring. I took this
+opportunity of advising my friends in Canada of my intention to return
+home that season. It was the third attempt I had made to send news of my
+existence to my relatives and friends: the first two had miscarried and
+this was doomed to meet the same fate.
+
+Messrs. J. Stuart and M'Kenzie, who (as was seen in a previous chapter)
+had been sent to notify the gentlemen in the interior of what had taken
+place at Astoria, and to transfer the wintering posts to the Northwest
+Company, returned to Fort George on the morning of the 6th. They stated
+that they had left Messrs. Clarke and D. Stuart behind, with the loaded
+canoes, and also that the party had been attacked by the natives above
+the falls.
+
+As they were descending the river toward evening, between the first and
+second portages, they had espied a large number of Indians congregated
+at no great distance in the prairie; which gave them some uneasiness. In
+fact, some time after they had encamped, and when all the people (_tout
+le monde_) were asleep, except Mr. Stuart, who was on guard, these
+savages had stealthily approached the camp, and discharged some arrows,
+one of which had penetrated the coverlet of one of the men, who was
+lying near the baggage, and had pierced the cartilage of his ear; the
+pain made him utter a sharp cry, which alarmed the whole camp and threw
+it into an uproar. The natives perceiving it, fled to the woods, howling
+and yelling like so many demons. In the morning our people picked up
+eight arrows round the camp: they could yet hear the savages yell and
+whoop in the woods: but, notwithstanding, the party reached the lower
+end of the portage unmolested.
+
+The audacity which these barbarians had displayed in attacking a party
+of from forty to forty-five persons, made us suppose that they would,
+much more probably, attack the party of Mr. Stuart, which was composed
+of but seventeen men. Consequently, I received orders to get ready
+forthwith a canoe and firearms, in order to proceed to their relief. The
+whole was ready in the short space of two hours, and I embarked
+immediately with a guide and eight men. Our instructions were to use all
+possible diligence to overtake Messrs. Stewart and Keith, and to convey
+them to the upper end of the last portage; or to return with the goods,
+if we met too much resistance on the part of the natives. We travelled,
+then, all that day, and all the night of the 6th, and on the 7th, till
+evening. Finding ourselves then at a little distance from the rapids, I
+came to a halt, to put the firearms in order, and let the men take some
+repose. About midnight I caused them to re-embark, and ordered the men
+to sing as they rowed, that the party whom we wished to overtake might
+hear us as we passed, if perchance they were encamped on some one of the
+islands of which the river is full in this part. In fact, we had hardly
+proceeded five or six miles, when we were hailed by some one apparently
+in the middle of the stream. We stopped rowing, and answered, and were
+soon joined by our people of the expedition, who were all descending the
+river in a canoe. They informed us that they had been attacked the
+evening before, and that Mr. Stuart had been wounded. We turned about,
+and all proceeded in company toward the fort. In the morning, when we
+stopped to breakfast, Mr. Keith gave me the particulars of the affair of
+the day preceding.
+
+Having arrived at the foot of the rapids, they commenced the portage on
+the south bank of the river, which is obstructed with boulders, over
+which it was necessary to pass the effects. After they had hauled over
+the two canoes, and a part of the goods, the natives approached in great
+numbers, trying to carry off something unobserved. Mr. Stuart was at the
+upper end of the portage (the portage being about six hundred yards in
+length), and Mr. Keith accompanied the loaded men. An Indian seized a
+bag containing articles of little value, and fled: Mr. Stuart, who saw
+the act, pursued the thief, and after some resistance on the latter's
+part, succeeded in making him relinquish his booty. Immediately he saw a
+number of Indians armed with bows and arrows; approaching him: one of
+them bent his bow and took aim; Mr. Stuart, on his part, levelled his
+gun at the Indian, warning the latter not to shoot, and at the same
+instant received an arrow, which pierced his left shoulder. He then
+drew the trigger; but as it had rained all day, the gun missed fire, and
+before he could re-prime, another arrow, better aimed than the first,
+struck him in the left side and penetrated between two of his ribs, in
+the region of the heart, and would have proved fatal, no doubt, but for
+a stone-pipe he had fortunately in his side-pocket, and which was broken
+by the arrow; at the same moment his gun was discharged, and the Indian
+fell dead. Several others then rushed forward to avenge the death of
+their compatriot; but two of the men came up with their loads and their
+gun (for these portages were made arms in hand), and seeing what was
+going forward, one of them threw his pack on the ground, fired on one of
+the Indians and brought him down. He got up again, however, and picked
+up his weapons, but the other man ran upon him, wrested from him his
+war-club, and despatched him by repeated blows on the head with it. The
+other savages, seeing the bulk of our people approaching the scene of
+combat, retired and crossed the river. In the meantime, Mr. Stuart
+extracted the arrows from his body, by the aid of one of the men: the
+blood flowed in abundance from the wounds, and he saw that it would be
+impossible for him to pursue his journey; he therefore gave orders for
+the canoes and goods to be carried back to the lower end of the portage.
+Presently they saw a great number of pirogues full of warriors coming
+from the opposite side of the river. Our people then considered that
+they could do nothing better than to get away as fast as possible; they
+contrived to transport over one canoe, on which they all embarked,
+abandoning the other and the goods, to the natives. While the barbarians
+were plundering these effects, more precious in their estimation than
+the apples of gold in the garden of the Hesperides, our party retired
+and got out of sight. The retreat was, notwithstanding, so precipitate,
+that they left behind an Indian from the Lake of the Two Mountains, who
+was in the service of the Company as a hunter. This Indian had persisted
+in concealing himself behind the rocks, meaning, he said, to kill some
+of those thieves, and did not return in time for the embarkation. Mr.
+Keith regretted this brave man's obstinacy, fearing, with good reason,
+that he would be discovered and murdered by the natives. We rowed all
+that day and night, and reached the factory on the 9th, at sunrise. Our
+first care, after having announced the misfortune of our people, was to
+dress the wounds of Mr. Stuart, which had been merely bound with a
+wretched piece of cotton cloth.
+
+The goods which had been abandoned, were of consequence to the Company,
+inasmuch as they could not be replaced. It was dangerous, besides, to
+leave the natives in possession of some fifty guns and a considerable
+quantity of ammunition, which they might use against us.[S] The
+partners, therefore, decided to fit out an expedition immediately to
+chastise the robbers, or at least to endeavor to recover the goods. I
+went, by their order, to find the principal chiefs of the neighboring
+tribes, to explain to them what had taken place, and invite them to
+join us, to which they willingly consented. Then, having got ready six
+canoes, we re-embarked on the 10th, to the number of sixty-two men, all
+armed from head to foot, and provided with a small brass field-piece.
+
+[Footnote S: However, some cases of guns and kegs of powder were thrown
+into the falls, before the party retreated.]
+
+We soon reached the lower end of the first rapid: but the essential
+thing was wanting to our little force; it was without provisions; our
+first care then was to try to procure these. Having arrived opposite a
+village, we perceived on the bank about thirty armed savages, who seemed
+to await us firmly. As it was not our policy to seem bent on
+hostilities, we landed on the opposite bank, and I crossed the river
+with five or six men, to enter into parley with them, and try to obtain
+provisions. I immediately became aware that the village was abandoned,
+the women and children having fled to the woods, taking with them all
+the articles of food. The young men, however, offered us dogs, of which
+we purchased a score. Then we passed to a second village, where they
+were already informed of our coming. Here we bought forty-five dogs and
+a horse. With this stock we formed an encampment on an island called
+_Strawberry island_.
+
+Seeing ourselves now provided with food for several days, we informed
+the natives touching the motives which had brought us, and announced to
+them that we were determined to put them all to death and burn their
+villages, if they did not bring back in two days the effects stolen on
+the 7th. A party was detached to the rapids, where the attack on Mr.
+Stuart had taken place. We found the villages all deserted. Crossing to
+the north bank, we found a few natives, of whom we made inquiries
+respecting the Nipissingue Indian, who had been left behind, but they
+assured us that they had seen nothing of him.[T]
+
+[Footnote T: This Indian returned some time after to the factory, but in
+a pitiable condition. After the departure of the canoe, he had concealed
+himself behind a rock, and so passed the night. At daybreak, fearing to
+be discovered, he gained the woods and directed his steps toward the
+fort, across a mountainous region. He arrived at length at the bank of a
+little stream, which he was at first unable to cross. Hunger, in the
+meantime, began to urge him; he might have appeased it with game, of
+which he saw plenty, but unfortunately he had lost the flint of his gun.
+At last, with a raft of sticks, he crossed the river, and arrived at a
+village, the inhabitants of which disarmed him, and made him prisoner.
+Our people hearing where he was, sent to seek him, and gave some
+blankets for his ransom.]
+
+Not having succeeded in recovering, above the rapids, any part of the
+lost goods, the inhabitants all protesting that it was not they, but the
+villages below, which had perpetrated the robbery, we descended the
+river again, and re-encamped on _Strawberry island_. As the intention of
+the partners was to intimidate the natives, without (if possible)
+shedding blood, we made a display of our numbers, and from time to time
+fired off our little field-piece, to let them see that we could reach
+them from one side of the river to the other. The Indian _Coalpo_ and
+his wife, who had accompanied us, advised us to make prisoner one of the
+chiefs. We succeeded in this design, without incurring any danger.
+Having invited one of the natives to come and smoke with us, he came
+accordingly: a little after, came another; at last, one of the chiefs,
+and he one of the most considered among them, also came. Being notified
+secretly of his character by _Coalpo_, who was concealed in the tent,
+we seized him forthwith, tied him to a stake, and placed a guard over
+him with a naked sword, as if ready to cut his head off on the least
+attempt being made by his people for his liberation. The other Indians
+were then suffered to depart with the news for his tribe, that unless
+the goods were brought to us in twenty-four hours, their chief would be
+put to death. Our stratagem succeeded: soon after we heard wailing and
+lamentation in the village, and they presently brought us part of the
+guns, some brass kettles, and a variety of smaller articles, protesting
+that this was all their share of the plunder. Keeping our chief as a
+hostage, we passed to the other village, and succeeded in recovering the
+rest of the guns, and about a third of the other goods.
+
+Although they had been the aggressors, yet as they had had two men
+killed and we had not lost any on our side, we thought it our duty to
+conform to the usage of the country, and abandon to them the remainder
+of the stolen effects, to cover, according to their expression, the
+bodies of their two slain compatriots. Besides, we began to find
+ourselves short of provisions, and it would not have been easy to get at
+our enemies to punish them, if they had taken refuge in the woods,
+according to their custom when they feel themselves the weaker party. So
+we released our prisoner, and gave him a flag, telling him that when he
+presented it unfurled, we should regard it as a sign of peace and
+friendship: but if, when we were passing the portage, any one of the
+natives should have the misfortune to come near the baggage, we would
+kill him on the spot. We re-embarked on the 19th, and on the 22d reached
+the fort, where we made a report of our martial expedition. We found Mr.
+Stuart very ill of his wounds, especially of the one in the side, which
+was so much swelled that we had every reason to think the arrow had been
+poisoned.
+
+If we did not do the savages as much harm as we might have done, it was
+not from timidity but from humanity, and in order not to shed human
+blood uselessly. For after all, what good would it have done us to have
+slaughtered some of these barbarians, whose crime was not the effect of
+depravity and wickedness, but of an ardent and irresistible desire to
+ameliorate their condition? It must be allowed also that the interest,
+well-understood, of the partners of the Northwest Company, was opposed
+to too strongly marked acts of hostility on their part: it behooved them
+exceedingly not to make irreconciliable enemies of the populations
+neighboring on the portages of the Columbia, which they would so often
+be obliged to pass and repass in future. It is also probable that the
+other natives on the banks, as well as of the river as of the sea, would
+not have seen with indifference, their countrymen too signally or too
+rigorously punished by strangers; and that they would have made common
+cause with the former to resist the latter, and perhaps even to drive
+them from the country.
+
+I must not omit to state that all the firearms surrendered by the
+Indians on this occasion, were found loaded with ball, and primed, with
+a little piece of cotton laid over the priming to keep the powder dry.
+This shows how soon they would acquire the use of guns, and how careful
+traders should be in intercourse with strange Indians, not to teach them
+their use.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     Description of Tongue Point.--A Trip to the _Willamet_.--Arrival of
+     W. Hunt in the Brig Pedlar.--Narrative of the Loss of the Ship
+     Lark.--Preparations for crossing the Continent.
+
+
+The new proprietors of our establishment, being dissatisfied with the
+site we had chosen, came to the determination to change it; after
+surveying both sides of the river, they found no better place than the
+head-land which we had named Tongue point. This point, or to speak more
+accurately, perhaps, this cape, extends about a quarter of a mile into
+the river, being connected with the main-land by a low, narrow neck,
+over which the Indians, in stormy weather, haul their canoes in passing
+up and down the river; and terminating in an almost perpendicular rock,
+of about 250 or 300 feet elevation. This bold summit was covered with a
+dense forest of pine trees; the ascent from the lower neck was gradual
+and easy; it abounded in springs of the finest water; on either side it
+had a cove to shelter the boats necessary for a trading establishment.
+This peninsula had truly the appearance of a huge tongue. Astoria had
+been built nearer the ocean, but the advantages offered by Tongue point
+more than compensated for its greater distance. Its soil, in the rainy
+season, could be drained with little or no trouble; it was a better
+position to guard against attacks on the part of the natives, and less
+exposed to that of civilized enemies by sea or land in time of war.
+
+All the hands who had returned from the interior, added to those who
+were already at the Fort, consumed, in an incredibly short space of time
+the small stock of provisions which had been conveyed by the Pacific Fur
+Company to the Company of the Northwest. It became a matter of
+necessity, therefore, to seek some spot where a part, at least, could be
+sent to subsist. With these views I left the fort on the 7th February
+with a number of men, belonging to the old concern, and who had refused
+to enter the service of the new one, to proceed to the establishment on
+the _Willamet_ river, under the charge of Mr. Alexander Henry, who had
+with him a number of first-rate hunters. Leaving the Columbia to ascend
+the _Willamet_, I found the banks on either side of that stream well
+wooded, but low and swampy, until I reached the first falls; having
+passed which, by making a portage, I commenced ascending a clear but
+moderately deep channel, against a swift current. The banks on either
+side were bordered with forest-trees, but behind that narrow belt,
+diversified with prairie, the landscape was magnificent; the hills were
+of moderate elevation, and rising in an amphitheatre. Deer and elk are
+found here in great abundance; and the post in charge of Mr. Henry had
+been established with a view of keeping constantly there a number of
+hunters to prepare dried venison for the use of the factory. On our
+arrival at the Columbia, considering the latitude, we had expected
+severe winter weather, such as is experienced in the same latitudes
+east; but we were soon undeceived; the mildness of the climate never
+permitted us to transport fresh provisions from the Willamet to Astoria.
+We had not a particle of salt; and the attempts we made to smoke or dry
+the venison proved abortive.
+
+Having left the men under my charge with Mr. Henry, I took leave of that
+gentleman, and returned. At Oak point I found Messrs. Keith and Pillet
+encamped, to pass there the season of sturgeon-fishing. They informed me
+that I was to stay with them.
+
+Accordingly I remained at Oak point the rest of the winter, occupied in
+trading with the Indians spread all along the river for some 30 or 40
+miles above, in order to supply the factory with provisions. I used to
+take a boat with four or five men, visit every fishing station, trade
+for as much fish as would load the boat, and send her down to the fort.
+The surplus fish traded in the interval between the departure and return
+of the boat, was cut up, salted and barrelled for future use. The salt
+had been recently obtained from a quarter to be presently mentioned.
+
+About the middle of March Messrs. Keith and Pillet both left me and
+returned to the fort. Being now alone, I began seriously to reflect on
+my position, and it was in this interval that I positively decided to
+return to Canada. I made inquiries of the men sent up with the boats for
+fish, concerning the preparations for departure, but whether they had
+been enjoined secrecy, or were unwilling to communicate, I could learn
+nothing of what was doing below.
+
+At last I heard that on the 28th February a sail had appeared at the
+mouth of the river. The gentlemen of the N.W. Company at first flattered
+themselves that it was the vessel they had so long expected. They were
+soon undeceived by a letter from Mr. Hunt, which was brought to the fort
+by the Indians of _Baker's bay_. That gentleman had purchased at the
+Marquesas islands a brig called _The Pedlar_: it was on that vessel that
+he arrived, having for pilot Captain Northrop, formerly commander of
+the ship _Lark_. The latter vessel had been outfitted by Mr. Astor, and
+despatched from New York, in spite of the blockading squadron, with
+supplies for the _ci-devant_ Pacific Fur Company; but unhappily she had
+been assailed by a furious tempest and capsized in lat. 16 deg. N., and
+three or four hundred miles from the Sandwich Islands. The mate who was
+sick, was drowned in the cabin, and four of the crew perished at the
+same time. The captain had the masts and rigging cut away, which caused
+the vessel to right again, though full of water. One of the hands dived
+down to the sail-maker's locker, and got out a small sail, which they
+attached to the bowsprit. He dived a second time, and brought up a box
+containing a dozen bottles of wine. For thirteen days they had no other
+sustenance but the flesh of a small shark, which they had the good
+fortune to take, and which they ate raw, and for drink, a gill of the
+wine each man _per diem_. At last the trade winds carried them upon the
+island of _Tahouraka_, where the vessel went to pieces on the reef. The
+islanders saved the crew, and seized all the goods which floated on the
+water. Mr. Hunt was then at _Wahoo_, and learned through some islanders
+from _Morotoi_, that some Americans had been wrecked on the isle of
+_Tahouraka_. He went immediately to take them off, and gave the pilotage
+of his own vessel to Captain Northrop.
+
+It may be imagined what was the surprise of Mr. Hunt when he saw Astoria
+under the British flag, and passed into stranger hands. But the
+misfortune was beyond remedy, and he was obliged to content himself with
+taking on board all the Americans who were at the establishment, and who
+had not entered the service of the Company of the Northwest. Messrs.
+Halsey, Seton, and Farnham were among those who embarked. I shall have
+occasion to inform the reader of the part each of them played, and how
+they reached their homes.
+
+When I heard that Mr. Hunt was in the river, and knowing that the
+overland expedition was to set out early in April, I raised camp at Oak
+point, and reached the fort on the 2d of that month. But the brig
+_Pedlar_ had that very day got outside the river, after several
+fruitless attempts, in one of which she narrowly missed being lost on
+the bar.
+
+I would gladly have gone in her, had I but arrived a day sooner. I
+found, however, all things prepared for the departure of the canoes,
+which was to take place on the 4th. I got ready the few articles I
+possessed, and in spite of the very advantageous offers of the gentlemen
+of the N.W. Company, and their reiterated persuasions, aided by the
+crafty M'Dougal, to induce me to remain, at least one year more, I
+persisted in my resolution to leave the country. The journey I was about
+to undertake was a long one: it would be accompanied with great fatigues
+and many privations, and even by some dangers; but I was used to
+privations and fatigues; I had braved dangers of more than one sort; and
+even had it been otherwise, the ardent desire of revisiting my country,
+my relatives, and my friends, the hope of finding myself, in a few
+months, in their midst, would have made me overlook every other
+consideration.
+
+I am about, then, to quit the banks of the river Columbia, and conduct
+the reader through the mountain passes, over the plains, the forests,
+and the lakes of our continent: but I ought first to give him at least
+an idea of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as of the
+principal productions of the country that I now quit, after a sojourn of
+three years. This is what I shall try to do in the following
+chapters.[U]
+
+[Footnote U: Some of my readers would, no doubt, desire some scientific
+details on the botany and natural history of this country. That is, in
+fact, what they ought to expect from a man who had travelled for his
+pleasure, or to make discoveries: but the object of my travels was not
+of this description; my occupations had no relation with science; and,
+as I have said in my preface, I was not, and am not now, either a
+naturalist or a botanist.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+     Situation of the Columbia River.--Qualities of its Soil.--Climate,
+     &c.--Vegetable and Animal Productions of the Country.
+
+
+The mouth of the Columbia river is situated in 46 deg. 19' north latitude,
+and 125 deg. or 126 deg. of longitude west of the meridian of Greenwich. The
+highest tides are very little over nine or ten feet, at its entrance,
+and are felt up stream for a distance of twenty-five or thirty leagues.
+
+During the three years I spent there, the cold never was much below the
+freezing point; and I do not think the heat ever exceeded 76 deg.. Westerly
+winds prevail from the early part of spring, and during a part of the
+summer; that wind generally springs up with the flood tide, and tempers
+the heat of the day. The northwest wind prevails during the latter part
+of summer and commencement of autumn. This last is succeeded by a
+southeast wind, which blows almost without intermission from the
+beginning of October to the end of December, or commencement of January.
+This interval is the rainy season, the most disagreeable of the year.
+Fogs (so thick that sometimes for days no object is discernible for five
+or six hundred yards from the beach), are also very prevalent.
+
+The surface of the soil consists (in the valleys) of a layer of black
+vegetable mould, about five or six inches thick at most; under this
+layer is found another of gray and loose, but extremely cold earth;
+below which is a bed of coarse sand and gravel, and next to that pebble
+or hard rock. On the more elevated parts, the same black vegetable mould
+is found, but much thinner, and under it is the trap rock. We found
+along the seashore, south of Point Adams, a bank of earth white as
+chalk, which we used for white-washing our walls. The natives also
+brought us several specimens of blue, red and yellow earth or clay,
+which they said was to be found at a great distance south; and also a
+sort of shining earth, resembling lead ore.[V] We found no limestone,
+although we burnt several kilns, but never could get one ounce of lime.
+
+[Footnote V: Plumbago.]
+
+We had brought with us from New York a variety of garden seeds, which
+were put in the ground in the month of May, 1811, on a rich piece of
+land laid out for the purpose on a sloping ground in front of our
+establishment. The garden had a fine appearance in the month of August;
+but although the plants were left in the ground until December, not one
+of them came to maturity, with the exception of the radishes, the
+turnips, and the potatoes. The turnips grew to a prodigious size; one of
+the largest we had the curiosity to weigh and measure; its circumference
+was thirty-three inches, its weight fifteen and a half pounds. The
+radishes were in full blossom in the month of December, and were left in
+the ground to perfect the seeds for the ensuing season, but they were
+all destroyed by the ground mice, who hid themselves under the stumps
+which we had not rooted out, and infested our garden. With all the care
+we could bestow on them during the passage from New York, only twelve
+potatoes were saved, and even these so shrivelled up, that we despaired
+of raising any from the few sprouts that still gave signs of life.
+Nevertheless we raised one hundred and ninety potatoes the first season,
+and after sparing a few plants for our inland traders, we planted about
+fifty or sixty hills, which produced five bushels the second year; about
+two of these were planted, and gave us a welcome crop of fifty bushels
+in the year 1813.
+
+It would result from these facts, that the soil on the banks of the
+river, as far as tide water, or for a distance of fifty or sixty miles,
+is very little adapted for agriculture; at all events, vegetation is
+very slow. It may be that the soil is not everywhere so cold as the spot
+we selected for our garden, and some other positions might have given a
+better reward for our labor: this supposition is rendered more than
+probable when we take into consideration the great difference in the
+indigenous vegetables of the country in different localities.
+
+The forest trees most common at the mouth of the river and near our
+establishment, were cedar, hemlock, white and red spruce, and alder.
+There were a few dwarf white and gray ashes; and here and there a soft
+maple. The alder grows also to a very large size; I measured some of
+twelve to fifteen inches diameter; the wood was used by us in
+preference, to make charcoal for the blacksmith's forge. But the largest
+of all the trees that I saw in the country, was a white spruce: this
+tree, which had lost its top branches, and bore evident marks of having
+been struck by lightning, was a mere, straight trunk of about eighty to
+one hundred feet in height; its bark whitened by age, made it very
+conspicuous among the other trees with their brown bark and dark
+foliage, like a huge column of white marble. It stood on the slope of a
+hill immediately in the rear of our palisades. Seven of us placed
+ourselves round its trunk, and we could not embrace it by extending our
+arms and touching merely the tips of our fingers; we measured it
+afterward in a more regular manner, and found it forty-two feet in
+circumference. It kept the same size, or nearly the same, to the very
+top.
+
+We had it in contemplation at one time to construct a circular staircase
+to its summit, and erect a platform thereon for an observatory, but more
+necessary and pressing demands on our time made us abandon the project.
+
+A short distance above Astoria, the oak and ash are plentiful, but
+neither of these is of much value or beauty.
+
+From the middle of June to the middle of October, we had abundance of
+wild fruit; first, strawberries, almost white, small but very sweet;
+then raspberries, both red and orange color. These grow on a bush
+sometimes twelve feet in height: they are not sweet, but of a large
+size.
+
+The months of July and August furnish a small berry of an agreeable,
+slightly acid flavor; this berry grows on a slender bush of some eight
+to nine feet high, with small round leaves; they are in size like a wild
+cherry: some are blue, while others are of a cherry red: the last being
+smaller; they have no pits, or stones in them, but seeds, such as are to
+be seen in currants.
+
+I noticed in the month of August another berry growing in bunches or
+grapes like the currant, on a bush very similar to the currant bush: the
+leaves of this shrub resemble those of the laurel: they are very thick
+and always green. The fruit is oblong, and disposed in two rows on the
+stem: the extremity of the berry is open, having a little speck or tuft
+like that of an apple. It is not of a particularly fine flavor, but it
+is wholesome, and one may eat a quantity of it, without inconvenience.
+The natives make great use of it; they prepare it for the winter by
+bruising and drying it; after which it is moulded into cakes according
+to fancy, and laid up for use. There is also a great abundance of
+cranberries, which proved very useful as an antiscorbutic.
+
+We found also the whortleberry, chokecherries, gooseberries, and black
+currants with wild crab-apples: these last grow in clusters, are of
+small size and very tart. On the upper part of the river are found
+blackberries, hazel-nuts, acorns, &c. The country also possesses a great
+variety of nutritive roots: the natives make great use of those which
+have the virtue of curing or preventing the scurvy. We ate freely of
+them with the same intention, and with the same success. One of these
+roots, which much resembles a small onion, serves them, in some sort, in
+place of cheese. Having gathered a sufficient quantity, they bake them
+with red-hot stones, until the steam ceases to ooze from the layer of
+grass and earth with which the roots are covered; then they pound them
+into a paste, and make the paste into loaves, of five or six pounds
+weight: the taste is not unlike liquorice, but not of so sickly a
+sweetness. When we made our first voyage up the river the natives gave
+us square biscuits, very well worked, and printed with different
+figures. These are made of a white root, pounded, reduced to paste, and
+dried in the sun. They call it _Chapaleel_: it is not very palatable;
+nor very nutritive.
+
+But the principal food of the natives of the Columbia is fish. The
+salmon-fishery begins in July: that fish is here of an exquisite flavor,
+but it is extremely fat and oily; which renders it unwholesome for those
+who are not accustomed to it, and who eat too great a quantity: thus
+several of our people were attacked with diarrhoea in a few days after
+we began to make this fish our ordinary sustenance; but they found a
+remedy in the raspberries of the country which have an astringent
+property.
+
+The months of August and September furnish excellent sturgeon. This fish
+varies exceedingly in size; I have seen some eleven feet long; and we
+took one that weighed, after the removal of the eggs and intestines,
+three hundred and ninety pounds. We took out nine gallons of roe. The
+sturgeon does not enter the river in so great quantities as the salmon.
+
+In October and November we had salmon too, but of a quite different
+species--lean, dry and insipid. It differs from the other sort in form
+also; having very long teeth, and a hooked nose like the beak of a
+parrot. Our men termed it in derision "seven bark salmon," because it
+had almost no nutritive substance.
+
+February brings a small fish about the size of a sardine. It has an
+exquisite flavor, and is taken in immense quantities, by means of a
+scoop net, which the Indians, seated in canoes, plunge into the schools:
+but the season is short, not even lasting two weeks.
+
+The principal quadrupeds of the country are the elk, the black and white
+tailed deer; four species of bear, distinguished chiefly by the color of
+the fur or _poil_, to wit, the black, brown, white and grisly bear; the
+grisly bear is extremely ferocious; the white is found on the seashore
+toward the north; the wolf, the panther, the catamount, the lynx, the
+raccoon, the ground hog, opossum, mink, fisher, beaver, and the land and
+sea otter.[W] The sea otter has the handsomest fur that is known; the
+skin surpasses that of the land variety in size and in the beauty of the
+_poil_; the most esteemed color is the silver gray, which is highly
+prized in the Indies, and commands a great price.
+
+[Footnote W: Horses are abundant up the river; but they are not
+indigenous to the country. They will be spoken of in a future chapter.]
+
+The most remarkable birds are the eagle, the turkey-buzzard, the hawk,
+pelican, heron, gull, cormorant, crane, swan, and a great variety of
+wild ducks and geese. The pigeon, woodcock, and pheasant, are found in
+the forests as with us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+     Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River
+     Columbia.
+
+
+The natives inhabiting on the Columbia, from the mouth of that river to
+the falls, that is to say, on a space extending about 250 miles from
+east to west, are, generally speaking, of low stature, few of them
+passing five feet six inches, and many not even five feet. They pluck
+out the beard, in the manner of the other Indians of North America; but
+a few of the old men only suffer a tuft to grow upon their chins. On
+arriving among them we were exceedingly surprised to see that they had
+almost all flattened heads. This configuration is not a natural
+deformity, but an effect of art, caused by compression of the skull in
+infancy. It shocks strangers extremely, especially at first sight;
+nevertheless, among these barbarians it is an indispensable ornament:
+and when we signified to them how much this mode of flattening the
+forehead appeared to us to violate nature and good taste, they answered
+that it was only slaves who had not their heads flattened. The slaves,
+in fact, have the usual rounded head, and they are not permitted to
+flatten the foreheads of their children, destined to bear the chains of
+their sires. The natives of the Columbia procure these slaves from the
+neighboring tribes, and from the interior, in exchange for beads and
+furs. They treat them with humanity while their services are useful, but
+as soon as they become incapable of labor, neglect them and suffer them
+to perish of want. When dead, they throw their bodies, without ceremony,
+under the stump of an old decayed tree, or drag them to the woods to be
+devoured by the wolves and vultures.
+
+The Indians of the Columbia are of a light copper color, active in body,
+and, above all, excellent swimmers. They are addicted to theft, or
+rather, they make no scruple of laying hands on whatever suits them in
+the property of strangers, whenever they can find an opportunity. The
+goods and effects of European manufacture are so precious in the eyes of
+these barbarians, that they rarely resist the temptation of stealing
+them.
+
+These savages are not addicted to intemperance, unlike, in that respect
+the other American Indians, if we must not also except the Patagonians,
+who, like the Flatheads, regard intoxicating drinks as poisons, and
+drunkenness as disgraceful. I will relate a fact in point: one of the
+sons of the chief Comcomly being at the establishment one day, some of
+the gentlemen amused themselves with making him drink wine, and he was
+very soon drunk. He was sick in consequence, and remained in a state of
+stupor for two days. The old chief came to reproach us, saying that we
+had degraded his son by exposing him to the ridicule of the slaves, and
+besought us not to induce him to take strong liquors in future.
+
+The men go entirely naked, not concealing any part of their bodies. Only
+in winter they throw over the shoulders a panther's skin, or else a
+sort of mantle made of the skins of wood-rats sewed together. In rainy
+weather I have seen them wear a mantle of rush mats, like a Roman toga,
+or the vestment which a priest wears in celebrating mass; thus equipped,
+and furnished with a conical hat made from fibrous roots and
+impermeable, they may call themselves rain-proof. The women, in addition
+to the mantle of skins, wear a petticoat made of the cedar bark, which
+they attach round the girdle, and which reaches to the middle of the
+thigh. It is a little longer behind than before, and is fabricated in
+the following manner: They strip off the fine bark of the cedar, soak it
+as one soaks hemp, and when it is drawn out into fibres, work it into a
+fringe; then with a strong cord they bind the fringes together. With so
+poor a vestment they contrive to satisfy the requirements of modesty;
+when they stand it drapes them fairly enough; and when they squat down
+in their manner, it falls between their legs, leaving nothing exposed
+but the bare knees and thighs. Some of the younger women twist the
+fibres of bark into small cords, knotted at the ends, and so form the
+petticoat, disposed in a fringe, like the first, but more easily kept
+clean and of better appearance.
+
+Cleanliness is not a virtue among these females, who, in that respect,
+resemble the other Indian women of the continent. They anoint the body
+and dress the hair with fish oil, which does not diffuse an agreeable
+perfume. Their hair (which both sexes wear long) is jet black; it is
+badly combed, but parted in the middle, as is the custom of the sex
+everywhere, and kept shining by the fish-oil before-mentioned.
+Sometimes, in imitation of the men, they paint the whole body with a red
+earth mixed with fish-oil. Their ornaments consist of bracelets of
+brass, which they wear indifferently on the wrists and ankles; of
+strings of beads of different colors (they give a preference to the
+blue), and displayed in great profusion around the neck, and on the arms
+and legs; and of white shells, called _Haiqua_, which are their ordinary
+circulating medium. These shells are found beyond the straits of _Juan
+de Fuca_, and are from one to four inches long, and about half an inch
+in diameter: they are a little curved and naturally perforated: the
+longest are most valued. The price of all commodities is reckoned in
+these shells; a fathom string of the largest of them is worth about ten
+beaver-skins.
+
+Although a little less slaves than the greater part of the Indian women
+elsewhere, the women on the Columbia are, nevertheless, charged with the
+most painful labors; they fetch water and wood, and carry the goods in
+their frequent changes of residence; they clean the fish and cut it up
+for drying; they prepare the food and cook the fruits in their season.
+Among their principal occupations is that of making rush mats, baskets
+for gathering roots, and hats very ingeniously wrought. As they want
+little clothing, they do not sew much, and the men have the needle in
+hand oftener than they.
+
+The men are not lazy, especially during the fishing season. Not being
+hunters, and eating, consequently, little flesh-meat (although they are
+fond of it), fish makes, as I have observed, their principal diet. They
+profit, therefore, by the season when it is to be had, by taking as much
+as they can; knowing that the intervals will be periods of famine and
+abstinence, unless they provide sufficiently beforehand.
+
+Their canoes are all made of cedar, and of a single trunk: we saw some
+which were five feet wide at midships, and thirty feet in length; these
+are the largest, and will carry from 25 to 30 men; the smallest will
+carry but two or three. The bows terminate in a very elongated point,
+running out four or five feet from the water line. It constitutes a
+separate piece, very ingeniously attached, and serves to break the surf
+in landing, or the wave on a rough sea. In landing they put the canoe
+round, so as to strike the beach stern on. Their oars or paddles are
+made of ash, and are about five feet long, with a broad blade, in the
+shape of an inverted crescent, and a cross at the top, like the handle
+of a crutch. The object of the crescent shape of the blade is to be able
+to draw it, edge-wise, through the water without making any noise, when
+they hunt the sea-otter, an animal which can only be caught when it is
+lying asleep on the rocks, and which has the sense of hearing very
+acute. All their canoes are painted red, and fancifully decorated.
+
+Their houses, constructed of cedar, are remarkable for their form and
+size: some of them are one hundred feet in length by thirty or forty
+feet in width. They are constructed as follows: An oblong square of the
+intended size of the building is dug out to the depth of two or three
+feet; a double row of cedar posts is driven into the earth about ten
+feet apart; between these the planks are laid, overlapping each other to
+the requisite height. The roof is formed by a ridge-pole laid on taller
+posts, notched to receive it, and is constructed with rafters and planks
+laid clapboard-wise, and secured by cords for want of nails. When the
+house is designed for several families, there is a door for each, and a
+separate fireplace; the smoke escapes through an aperture formed by
+removing one of the boards of the roof. The door is low, of an oval
+shape, and is provided with a ladder, cut out of a log, to descend into
+the lodge. The entrance is generally effected stern-foremost.
+
+The kitchen utensils consist of plates of ash-wood, bowls of fibrous
+roots, and a wooden kettle: with these they succeed in cooking their
+fish and meat in less time than we take with the help of pots and
+stewpans. See how they do it! Having heated a number of stones red-hot,
+they plunge them, one by one, in the vessel which is to contain the food
+to be prepared; as soon as the water boils, they put in the fish or
+meat, with some more heated stones on top, and cover up the whole with
+small rush mats, to retain the steam. In an incredibly short space of
+time the article is taken out and placed on a wooden platter, perfectly
+done and very palatable. The broth is taken out also, with a ladle of
+wood or horn.
+
+It will be asked, no doubt, what instruments these savages use in the
+construction of their canoes and their houses. To cause their patience
+and industry to be admired as much as they deserve, it will be
+sufficient for me to mention that we did not find among them a single
+hatchet: their only tools consisted of an inch or half-inch chisel,
+usually made of an old file, and of a mallet, which was nothing but an
+oblong stone. With these wretched implements, and wedges made of hemlock
+knots, steeped in oil and hardened by the fire, they would undertake to
+cut down the largest cedars of the forest, to dig them out and fashion
+them into canoes, to split them, and get out the boards wherewith to
+build their houses. Such achievements with such means, are a marvel of
+ingenuity and patience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+     Manners and Customs of the Natives continued.--Their Wars.--Their
+     Marriages.--Medicine Men.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Religious
+     Notions.--Language.
+
+
+The politics of the natives of the Columbia are a simple affair: each
+village has its chief, but that chief does not seem to exercise a great
+authority over his fellow-citizens. Nevertheless, at his death, they pay
+him great honors: they use a kind of mourning, which consists in
+painting the face with black, in lieu of gay colors; they chant his
+funeral song or oration for a whole month. The chiefs are considered in
+proportion to their riches: such a chief has a great many wives, slaves,
+and strings of beads--he is accounted a great chief. These barbarians
+approach in that respect to certain civilized nations, among whom the
+worth of a man is estimated by the quantity of gold he possesses.
+
+As all the villages form so many independent sovereignties, differences
+sometimes arise, whether between the chiefs or the tribes. Ordinarily,
+these terminate by compensations equivalent to the injury. But when the
+latter is of a grave character, like a murder (which is rare), or the
+abduction of a woman (which is very common), the parties, having made
+sure of a number of young braves to aid them, prepare for war. Before
+commencing hostilities, however, they give notice of the day when they
+will proceed to attack the hostile village; not following in that
+respect the custom of almost all other American Indians, who are wont to
+burst upon their enemy unawares, and to massacre or carry off men,
+women, and children; these people, on the contrary, embark in their
+canoes, which on these occasions are paddled by the women, repair to the
+hostile village, enter into parley, and do all they can to terminate the
+affair amicably: sometimes a third party becomes mediator between the
+first two, and of course observes an exact neutrality. If those who seek
+justice do not obtain it to their satisfaction, they retire to some
+distance, and the combat begins, and is continued for some time with
+fury on both sides; but as soon as one or two men are killed, the party
+which has lost these, owns itself beaten and the battle ceases. If it is
+the people of the village attacked who are worsted, the others do not
+retire without receiving presents. When the conflict is postponed till
+the next day (for they never fight but in open daylight, as if to render
+nature witness of their exploits), they keep up frightful cries all
+night long, and, when they are sufficiently near to understand each
+other, defy one another by menaces, railleries, and sarcasms, like the
+heroes of Homer and Virgil. The women and children are always removed
+from the village before the action.
+
+Their combats are almost all maritime: for they fight ordinarily in
+their pirogues, which they take care to careen, so as to present the
+broadside to the enemy, and half lying down, avoid the greater part of
+the arrows let fly at them.
+
+But the chief reason of the bloodlessness of their combats is the
+inefficiency of their offensive weapons, and the excellence of their
+defensive armor. Their offensive arms are merely a bow and arrow, and a
+kind of double-edged sabre, about two and a half feet long, and six
+inches wide in the blade: they rarely come to sufficiently close
+quarters to make use of the last. For defensive armor they wear a
+cassock or tunic of elk-skin double, descending to the ankles, with
+holes for the arms. It is impenetrable by their arrows, which can not
+pierce two thicknesses of leather; and as their heads are also covered
+with a sort of helmet, the neck is almost the only part in which they
+can be wounded. They have another kind of corslet, made like the corsets
+of our ladies, of splinters of hard wood interlaced with nettle twine.
+The warrior who wears this cuirass does not use the tunic of elk-skin;
+he is consequently less protected, but a great deal more free; the said
+tunic being very heavy and very stiff.
+
+It is almost useless to observe that, in their military expeditions,
+they have their bodies and faces daubed with different paints, often of
+the most extravagant designs. I remember to have seen a war-chief, with
+one exact half of his face painted white and the other half black.
+
+Their marriages are conducted with a good deal of ceremony. When a young
+man seeks a girl in marriage, his parents make the proposals to those of
+the intended bride, and when it has been agreed upon what presents the
+future bridegroom is to offer to the parents of the bride, all parties
+assemble at the house of the latter, whither the neighbors are invited
+to witness the contract. The presents, which consist of slaves, strings
+of beads, copper bracelets, _haiqua_ shells, &c., are distributed by the
+young man, who, on his part receives as many, and sometimes more,
+according to the means or the munificence of the parents of his
+betrothed. The latter is then led forward by the old matrons and
+presented to the young man, who takes her as his wife, and all retire to
+their quarters.
+
+The men are not very scrupulous in their choice, and take small pains to
+inform themselves what conduct a young girl has observed before her
+nuptials; and it must be owned that few marriages would take place, if
+the youth would only espouse maidens without reproach on the score of
+chastity; for the unmarried girls are by no means scrupulous in that
+particular, and their parents give them, on that head, full liberty. But
+once the marriage is contracted, the spouses observe toward each other
+an inviolable fidelity; adultery is almost unknown among them, and the
+woman who should be guilty of it would be punished with death. At the
+same time, the husband may repudiate his wife, and the latter may then
+unite herself in marriage to another man. Polygamy is permitted, indeed
+is customary; there are some who have as many as four or five wives; and
+although it often happens that the husband loves one better than the
+rest, they never show any jealousy, but live, together in the most
+perfect concord.[X]
+
+[Footnote X: This appears improbable, and is, no doubt, overstated; but
+so far as it is true, only shows the degradation of these women, and the
+absence of moral love on both sides. The indifference to virgin chastity
+described by Mr. F., is a characteristic of barbarous nations in
+general, and is explained by the principle stated in the next note
+below; the savage state being essentially one in which the supernatural
+bond of human fellowship is snapped: it is (as it has been called) the
+state of _nature_, in which continence is practically impossible; and
+what men can not have, that they soon cease to prize. The same utter
+indifference to the past conduct of the girls they marry is mentioned by
+MAYHEW as existing among the costermongers and street population of
+London, whom he well likens to the barbarous tribes lying on the
+outskirts of more ancient nations.--ED.]
+
+There are charlatans everywhere, but they are more numerous among
+savages than anywhere else, because among these ignorant and
+superstitious people the trade is at once more profitable and less
+dangerous. As soon as a native of the Columbia is indisposed, no matter
+what the malady, they send for the medicine man, who treats the patient
+in the absurd manner usually adopted by these impostors, and with such
+violence of manipulation, that often a sick man, whom a timely bleeding
+or purgative would have saved, is carried off by a sudden death.
+
+They deposite their dead in canoes, on rocks sufficiently elevated not
+to be overflowed by the spring freshets. By the side of the dead are
+laid his bow, his arrows, and some of his fishing implements; if it is
+a woman, her beads and bracelets: the wives, the relatives and the
+slaves of the defunct cut their hair in sign of grief, and for several
+days, at the rising and setting of the sun, go to some distance from the
+village to chant a funeral song.
+
+These people have not, properly speaking, a public worship.[Y] I could
+never perceive, during my residence among them, that they worshipped any
+idol. They had, nevertheless, some small sculptured figures; but they
+appeared to hold them in light esteem, offering to barter them for
+trifles.
+
+[Footnote Y: It is Coleridge who observes that _every tribe is
+barbarous_ which has no recognised public worship or cult, and no
+regular priesthood as opposed to self-constituted conjurors. It is, in
+fact, by public worship alone that human society is organized and
+vivified; and it is impossible to maintain such worship without a
+sacerdotal order, however it be constituted. _No culture without a
+cult_, is the result of the study of the races of mankind. Hence those
+who would destroy religion are the enemies of civilization.--ED.]
+
+Having travelled with one of the sons of the chief of the Chinooks
+(Comcomly), an intelligent and communicative young man, I put to him
+several questions touching their religious belief, and the following
+is, in substance, what he told me respecting it: Men, according to their
+ideas, were created by a divinity whom they name _Etalapass_; but they
+were imperfect, having a mouth that was not opened, eyes that were fast
+closed, hands and feet that were not moveable; in a word, they were
+rather statues of flesh, than living men. A second divinity, whom they
+call _Ecannum_, less powerful, but more benign than the former, having
+seen men in their state of imperfection, took a sharp stone and laid
+open their mouths and eyes; he gave agility, also, to their feet, and
+motion to their hands. This compassionate divinity was not content with
+conferring these first benefits; he taught men to make canoes, paddles,
+nets, and, in a word, all the tools and instruments they use. He did
+still more: he threw great rocks into the river, to obstruct the ascent
+of the salmon, in order that they might take as many as they wanted.
+
+The natives of the Columbia further believe, that the men who have been
+good citizens, good fathers, good husbands, and good fishermen, who
+have not committed murder, &c., will be perfectly happy after their
+death, and will go to a country where they will find fish, fruit, &c.,
+in abundance; and that, on the contrary, those who have lived wickedly,
+will inhabit a country of fasting and want, where they will eat nothing
+but bitter roots, and have nothing to drink but salt water.
+
+If these notions in regard to the origin and future destiny of man are
+not exactly conformed to sound reason or to divine revelation, it will
+be allowed that they do not offer the absurdities with which the
+mythologies of many ancient nations abound.[Z] The article which makes
+skill in fishing a virtue worthy of being compensated in the other
+world, does not disfigure the salutary and consoling dogma of the
+immortality of the soul, and that of future rewards and punishments, so
+much as one is at first tempted to think; for if we reflect a little, we
+shall discover that the skilful fisherman, in laboring for himself,
+labors also for society; he is a useful citizen, who contributes, as
+much as lies in his power, to avert from his fellow-men the scourge of
+famine; he is a religious man, who honors the divinity by making use of
+his benefits. Surely a great deal of the theology of a future life
+prevalent among civilized men, does not excel this in profundity.
+
+[Footnote Z: It seems clear that this Indian mythology is a form of the
+primitive tradition obscured by symbol. The creation of man by the
+Supreme Divinity, but in an imperfect state ("his eyes not yet opened"),
+his deliverance from that condition by an inferior but more beneficent
+deity (the Satan of the Bible), and the progress of the emancipated and
+enlightened being, in the arts of industry, are clearly set forth. Thus
+the devil has his cosmogony as well as the Almighty, and his tradition
+in opposition to the divine.--ED.]
+
+It is not to be expected that men perfectly ignorant, like these
+Indians, should be free from superstitions: one of the most ridiculous
+they have, regards the method of preparing and eating fish. In the month
+of July, 1811, the natives brought us at first a very scanty supply of
+the fresh salmon, from the fear that we would cut the fish crosswise
+instead of lengthwise; being persuaded that if we did so, the river
+would be obstructed, and the fishing ruined. Having reproached the chief
+on that account, they brought us a greater quantity, but all cooked, and
+which, not to displease them, it was necessary to eat before sunset.
+Re-assured at last by our solemn promises not to cut the fish crosswise,
+they supplied us abundantly during the remainder of the season.
+
+In spite of the vices that may be laid to the charge of the natives of
+the Columbia, I regard them as nearer to a state of civilization than
+any of the tribes who dwell east of the Rocky mountains. They did not
+appear to me so attached to their customs that they could not easily
+adopt those of civilized nations: they would dress themselves willingly
+in the European mode, if they had the means. To encourage this taste, we
+lent pantaloons to the chiefs who visited us, when they wished to enter
+our houses, never allowing them to do it in a state of nudity. They
+possess, in an eminent degree, the qualities opposed to indolence,
+improvidence, and stupidity: the chiefs, above all, are distinguished
+for their good sense and intelligence. Generally speaking, they have a
+ready intellect and a tenacious memory. Thus old Comcomly recognised the
+mate of the _Albatross_ as having visited the country sixteen years
+before, and recalled to the latter the name of the captain under whom he
+had sailed at that period.
+
+The _Chinook_ language is spoken by all the nations from the mouth of
+the Columbia to the falls. It is hard and difficult to pronounce, for
+strangers; being full of gutturals, like the Gaelic. The combinations
+_thl_, or _tl_, and _lt_, are as frequent in the Chinook as in the
+Mexican.[AA]
+
+[Footnote AA: There can not be a doubt that the existing tribes on the
+N.W. coast, have reached that country from the _South_, and not from the
+North. They are the _debris_ of the civilization of Central America,
+expelled by a defecating process that is going on in all human
+societies, and so have sunk into barbarism.--ED.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+     Departure from Astoria or Fort George.--Accident.--Passage of the
+     Dalles or Narrows.--Great Columbian Desert.--Aspect of the
+     Country.--Wallawalla and Shaptin Rivers.--Rattlesnakes.--Some
+     Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Columbia.
+
+
+We quitted Fort George (or Astoria, if you please) on Monday morning,
+the 4th of April, 1814, in ten canoes, five of which were of bark and
+five of cedar wood, carrying each seven men as crew, and two passengers,
+in all ninety persons, and all well armed. Messrs. J.G. M'Tavish, D.
+Stuart, J. Clarke, B. Pillet, W. Wallace, D. M'Gillis, D. M'Kenzie, &c.,
+were of the party. Nothing remarkable occurred to us as far as the first
+falls, which we reached on the 10th. The portage was effected
+immediately, and we encamped on an island for the night. Our numbers
+had caused the greater part of the natives to take to flight, and those
+who remained in the villages showed the most pacific dispositions. They
+sold us four horses and thirty dogs, which were immediately slaughtered
+for food.
+
+We resumed our route on the 11th, at an early hour. The wind was
+favorable, but blew with violence. Toward evening, the canoe in which
+Mr. M'Tavish was, in doubling a point of rock, was run under by its
+press of sail, and sunk. Happily the river was not deep at this place;
+no one was drowned; and we succeeded in saving all the goods. This
+accident compelled us to camp at an early hour.
+
+On the 12th, we arrived at a rapid called the _Dalles_: this is a
+channel cut by nature through the rocks, which are here almost
+perpendicular: the channel is from 150 to 300 feet wide, and about two
+miles long. The whole body of the river rushes through it, with great
+violence, and renders navigation impracticable. The portage occupied us
+till dusk. Although we had not seen a single Indian in the course of the
+day, we kept sentinels on duty all night: for it was here that Messrs.
+Stuart and Reed were attacked by the natives.
+
+On the 13th, we made two more portages, and met Indians, of whom we
+purchased horses and wood. We camped early on a sandy plain, where we
+passed a bad night; the wind, which blew violently, raised clouds of
+sand, which incommoded us greatly, and spoiled every mouthful of food we
+took.
+
+On the 14th and 15th, we passed what are called the Great Plains of the
+Columbia. From the top of the first rapid to this point, the aspect of
+the country becomes more and more _triste_ and disagreeable; one meets
+at first nothing but bare hills, which scarcely offer a few isolated
+pines, at a great distance from each other; after that, the earth,
+stripped of verdure, does not afford you the sight of a single shrub;
+the little grass which grows in that arid soil, appears burnt by the
+rigor of the climate. The natives who frequent the banks of the river,
+for the salmon fishery, have no other wood but that which they take
+floating down. We passed several rapids, and a small stream called
+Utalah, which flows from the southeast.
+
+On the 16th, we found the river narrowed; the banks rose on either side
+in elevations, without, however, offering a single tree. We reached the
+river _Wallawalla_, which empties into the Columbia on the southeast. It
+is narrow at its confluence, and is not navigable for any great
+distance. A range of mountains was visible to the S.E., about fifty or
+sixty miles off. Behind these mountains the country becomes again flat
+and sandy, and is inhabited by a tribe called the _Snakes_. We found on
+the left bank of the _Wallawalla_, an encampment of Indians, consisting
+of about twenty lodges. They sold us six dogs and eight horses, the
+greater part extremely lean. We killed two of the horses immediately: I
+mounted one of the six that remained; Mr. Ross took another; and we
+drove the other four before us. Toward the decline of day we passed the
+river _Lewis_, called, in the language of the country, the _Sha-ap-tin_.
+It comes from the S.E., and is the same that Lewis and Clarke descended
+in 1805. The _Sha-ap-tin_ appeared to me to have little depth, and to be
+about 300 yards wide, at its confluence.
+
+The country through which we were now passing, was a mingling of hills,
+steep rocks, and valleys covered with wormwood; the stems of which shrub
+are nearly six inches thick, and might serve for fuel. We killed six
+rattlesnakes on the 15th, and on the 16th saw a great many more among
+the rocks. These dangerous reptiles appeared to be very numerous in this
+part of the country. The plains are also inhabited by a little
+quadruped, only about eight or nine inches in length, and approaching
+the dog in form. These animals have the hair, or _poil_, of a reddish
+brown, and strong fore-paws, armed with long claws which serve them to
+dig out their holes under the earth. They have a great deal of
+curiosity: as soon as they hear a noise they come out of their holes and
+bark. They are not vicious, but, though easily tamed, can not be
+domesticated.
+
+The natives of the upper Columbia, beginning at the falls, differ
+essentially in language, manners, and habits, from those of whom I have
+spoken in the preceding chapters. They do not dwell in villages, like
+the latter, but are nomads, like the Tartars and the Arabs of the
+desert: their women are more industrious, and the young girls more
+reserved and chaste than those of the populations lower down. They do
+not go naked, but both sexes wear habits made of dressed deer-skin,
+which they take care to rub with chalk, to keep them clean and white.
+They are almost always seen on horseback, and are in general good
+riders; they pursue the deer and penetrate even to Missouri, to kill
+buffalo, the flesh of which they dry, and bring it back on their horses,
+to make their principal food during the winter. These expeditions are
+not free from danger; for they have a great deal to apprehend from the
+_Black-feet_, who are their enemies. As this last tribe is powerful and
+ferocious, the _Snakes_, the _Pierced-noses_ or _Sha-ap-tins_, the
+_Flatheads_, &c., make common cause against them, when the former go to
+hunt east of the mountains. They set out with their families, and the
+cavalcade often numbers two thousand horses. When they have the good
+fortune not to encounter the enemy, they return with the spoils of an
+abundant chase; they load a part of their horses with the hides and
+beef, and return home to pass the winter in peace. Sometimes, on the
+contrary, they are so harassed by the Blackfeet, who surprise them in
+the night and carry off their horses, that they are forced to return
+light-handed, and then they have nothing to eat but roots, all the
+winter.
+
+These Indians are passionately fond of horseraces: by the bets they make
+on these occasions they sometimes lose all that they possess. The women
+ride, as well as the men. For a bridle they use a cord of horse-hair,
+which they attach round the animal's mouth; with that he is easily
+checked, and by laying the hand on his neck, is made to wheel to this
+side or that. The saddle is a cushion of stuffed deer-skin, very
+suitable for the purpose to which it is destined, rarely hurting the
+horse, and not fatiguing the rider so much as our European saddles. The
+stirrups are pieces of hard wood, ingeniously wrought, and of the same
+shape as those which are used in civilized countries. They are covered
+with a piece of deer-skin, which is sewed on wet, and in drying stiffens
+and becomes hard and firm. The saddles for women differ in form, being
+furnished with the antlers of a deer, so as to resemble the high
+pommelled saddle of the Mexican ladies.
+
+They procure their horses from the herds of these animals which are
+found in a wild state in the country extending between the northern
+latitudes and the gulf of Mexico, and which sometimes count a thousand
+or fifteen hundred in a troop. These horses come from New Mexico, and
+are of Spanish race. We even saw some which had been marked with a hot
+iron by Spaniards. Some of our men, who had been at the south, told me
+that they had seen among the Indians, bridles, the bits of which were of
+silver. The form of the saddles used by the females, proves that they
+have taken their pattern from the Spanish ones destined for the same
+use. One of the partners of the N.W. Company (Mr. M'Tavish) assured us
+that he had seen among the _Spokans_, an old woman who told him that she
+had seen men ploughing the earth; she told him that she had also seen
+churches, which she made him understand by imitating the sound of a bell
+and the action of pulling a bell-rope; and further to confirm her
+account, made the sign of the cross. That gentleman concluded that she
+had been made prisoner and sold to the Spaniards on the _Del Norte_; but
+I think it more probable it was nearer, in North California, at the
+mission of _San Carlos_ or _San Francisco_.
+
+As the manner of taking wild horses should not be generally known to my
+readers, I will relate it here in few words. The Indian who wishes to
+capture some horses, mounts one of his fleetest coursers, being armed
+with a long cord of horsehair, one end of which is attached to his
+saddle, and the other is a running noose. Arrived at the herd, he dashes
+into the midst of it, and flinging his cord, or _lasso_, passes it
+dexterously over the head of the animal he selects; then wheeling his
+courser, draws the cord after him; the wild horse, finding itself
+strangling, makes little resistance; the Indian then approaches, ties
+his fore and hind legs together, and leaves him till he has taken in
+this manner as many as he can. He then drives them home before him, and
+breaks them in at leisure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+     Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter.--Her Narrative.--Reflections of
+     the Author.--Priest's Rapid.--River Okenakan.--Kettle Falls.--Pine
+     Moss.--Scarcity of Food.--Rivers, Lakes, &c.--Accident.--A
+     Rencontre.--First View of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+On the 17th, the fatigue I had experienced the day before, on horseback,
+obliged me to re-embark in my canoe. About eight o'clock, we passed a
+little river flowing from the N.W. We perceived, soon after, three
+canoes, the persons in which were struggling with their paddles to
+overtake us. As we were still pursuing our way, we heard a child's voice
+cry out in French--"_arretez donc, arretez donc_"--(stop! stop!). We put
+ashore, and the canoes having joined us, we perceived in one of them the
+wife and children of a man named _Pierre Dorion_, a hunter, who had been
+sent on with a party of eight, under the command of Mr. J. Reed, among
+the _Snakes_, to join there the hunters left by Messrs. Hunt and Crooks,
+near Fort Henry, and to secure horses and provisions for our journey.
+This woman informed us, to our no small dismay, of the tragical fate of
+all those who composed that party. She told us that in the month of
+January, the hunters being dispersed here and there, setting their traps
+for the beaver, Jacob Regner, Gilles Leclerc, and Pierre Dorion, her
+husband, had been attacked by the natives. Leclerc, having been mortally
+wounded, reached her tent or hut, where he expired in a few minutes,
+after having announced to her that her husband had been killed. She
+immediately took two horses that were near the lodge, mounted her two
+boys upon them, and fled in all haste to the wintering house of Mr.
+Reed, which was about five days' march from the spot where her husband
+fell. Her horror and disappointment were extreme, when she found the
+house--a log cabin--deserted, and on drawing nearer, was soon convinced,
+by the traces of blood, that Mr. Reed also had been murdered. No time
+was to be lost in lamentations, and she had immediately fled toward the
+mountains south of the _Wallawalla_, where, being impeded by the depth
+of the snow, she was forced to winter, having killed both the horses to
+subsist herself and her children. But at last, finding herself out of
+provisions, and the snow beginning to melt, she had crossed the
+mountains with her boys, hoping to find some more humane Indians, who
+would let her live among them till the boats from the fort below should
+be ascending the river in the spring, and so reached the banks of the
+Columbia, by the Wallawalla. Here, indeed, the natives had received her
+with much hospitality, and it was the Indians of Wallawalla who brought
+her to us. We made them some presents to repay their care and pains, and
+they returned well satisfied.
+
+The persons who lost their lives in this unfortunate wintering party,
+were Mr. John Reed, (clerk), Jacob Regner, John Hubbough, Pierre Dorion
+(hunters), Gilles Leclerc, Francois Landry, J.B. Turcotte, Andre la
+Chapelle and Pierre De Launay, (_voyageurs_).[AB] We had no doubt that
+this massacre was an act of vengeance, on the part of the natives, in
+retaliation for the death of one of their people, whom Mr. John Clark
+had hanged for theft the spring before. This fact, the massacre on the
+Tonquin, the unhappy end of Captain Cook, and many other similar
+examples, prove how carefully the Europeans, who have relations with a
+barbarous people, should abstain from acting in regard to them on the
+footing of too marked an inequality, and especially from punishing their
+offences according to usages and codes, in which there is too often an
+enormous disproportion between the crime and the punishment. If these
+pretended exemplary punishments seem to have a good effect at first
+sight, they almost always produce terrible consequences in the sequel.
+
+[Footnote AB: Turcotte died of _King's Evil_. De Launay was a
+half-breed, of violent temper, who had taken an Indian woman to live
+with him; he left Mr. Reed in the autumn, and was never heard of again.]
+
+On the 18th, we passed _Priest's Rapid_, so named by Mr. Stuart and his
+people, who saw at this spot, in 1811, as they were ascending the
+river, a number of savages, one of whom was performing on the rest
+certain aspersions and other ceremonies, which had the air of being
+coarse imitations of the Catholic worship. For our part, we met here
+some Indians of whom we bought two horses. The banks of the river at
+this place are tolerably high, but the country back of them is flat and
+uninteresting.
+
+On the 20th, we arrived at a place where the bed of the river is
+extremely contracted, and where we were obliged to make a portage.
+Messrs. J. Stuart and Clarke left us here, to proceed on horseback to
+the Spokan trading house, to procure there the provisions which would be
+necessary for us, in order to push on to the mountains.
+
+On the 21st, we lightened of their cargoes, three canoes, in which those
+who were to cross the continent embarked, to get on with greater speed.
+We passed several rapids, and began to see mountains covered with snow.
+
+On the 22d, we began to see some pines on the ridge of the neighboring
+hills; and at evening we encamped under _trees_, a thing which had not
+happened to us since the 12th.
+
+On the 23d, toward 9, A.M., we reached the trading post established by
+D. Stuart, at the mouth of the river _Okenakan_. The spot appeared to us
+charming, in comparison with the country through which we had journeyed
+for twelve days past: the two rivers here meeting, and the immense
+prairies covered with a fine verdure, strike agreeably the eye of the
+observer; but there is not a tree or a shrub to diversify the scene, and
+render it a little less naked and less monotonous. We found here Messrs.
+J. M'Gillivray and Ross, and Mr. O. de Montigny, who had taken service
+with the N.W. Company, and who charged me with a letter for his brother.
+
+Toward midday we re-embarked, to continue our journey. After having
+passed several dangerous rapids without accident, always through a
+country broken by shelving rocks, diversified with hills and verdant
+prairies, we arrived, on the 29th, at the portage of the _Chaudieres_
+or Kettle falls. This is a fall where the water precipitates itself
+over an immense rock of white marble, veined with red and green, that
+traverses the bed of the river from N.W. to S.E. We effected the portage
+immediately, and encamped on the edge of a charming prairie.
+
+We found at this place some Indians who had been fasting, they assured
+us, for several days. They appeared, in fact, reduced to the most
+pitiable state, having nothing left but skin and bones, and scarcely
+able to drag themselves along, so that not without difficulty could they
+even reach the margin of the river, to get a little water to wet their
+parched lips. It is a thing that often happens to these poor people,
+when their chase has not been productive; their principal nourishment
+consisting, in that case, of the pine moss, which they boil till it is
+reduced to a sort of glue or black paste, of a sufficient consistence to
+take the form of biscuit. I had the curiosity to taste this bread, and I
+thought I had got in my mouth a bit of soap. Yet some of our people, who
+had been reduced to eat this glue, assured me that when fresh made it
+had a very good taste, seasoned with meat.[AC] We partly relieved these
+wretched natives from our scanty store.
+
+[Footnote AC: The process of boiling employed by the Indians in this
+case, extracts from the moss its gelatine, which serves to supply the
+waste of those tissues into which that principle enters; but as the moss
+contains little or none of the proximates which constitute the bulk of
+the living solids and fluids, it will not, of course, by itself, support
+life or strength.--ED.]
+
+On the 30th, while we were yet encamped at Kettle falls, Messrs. J.
+Stuart and Clarke arrived from the post at Spokan. The last was mounted
+on the finest-proportioned gray charger, full seventeen hands high, that
+I had seen in these parts: Mr. Stuart had got a fall from his, in trying
+to urge him, and had hurt himself severely. These gentlemen not having
+brought us the provisions we expected, because the hunters who had been
+sent for that purpose among the _Flatheads_, had not been able to
+procure any, it was resolved to divide our party, and that Messrs.
+M'Donald, J. Stuart, and M'Kenzie should go forward to the post situated
+east of the mountains, in order to send us thence horses and supplies.
+These gentlemen quitted us on the 1st of May. After their departure we
+killed two horses and dried the meat; which occupied us the rest of that
+day and all the next. In the evening of the 2d, Mr. A. Stuart arrived at
+our camp. He had recovered from his wounds (received in the conflict
+with the natives, before related), and was on his way to his old
+wintering place on _Slave lake_, to fetch his family to the Columbia.
+
+We resumed our route on the morning of the 3d of May, and went to encamp
+that evening at the upper-end of a rapid, where we began to descry
+mountains covered with forests, and where the banks of the river
+themselves were low and thinly timbered.
+
+On the 4th, after having passed several considerable rapids, we reached
+the confluence of _Flathead_ river. This stream comes from the S.E., and
+falls into the Columbia in the form of a cascade: it may be one hundred
+and fifty yards wide at its junction.
+
+On the morning of the 5th, we arrived at the confluence of the
+_Coutonais_ river. This stream also flows from the south, and has nearly
+the same width as the _Flathead_. Shortly after passing it, we entered
+a lake or enlargement of the river, which we crossed to encamp at its
+upper extremity. This lake may be thirty or forty miles, and about four
+wide at its broadest part: it is surrounded by lofty hills, which for
+the most part have their base at the water's edge, and rise by gradual
+and finely-wooded terraces, offering a sufficiently pretty view.
+
+On the 6th, after we had run through a narrow strait or channel some
+fifteen miles long, we entered another lake, of less extent than the
+former but equally picturesque. When we were nearly in the middle of it,
+an accident occurred which, if not very disastrous, was sufficiently
+singular. One of the men, who had been on the sick-list for several
+days, requested to be landed for an instant. Not being more than a mile
+from the shore, we acceded to his request, and made accordingly for a
+projecting head-land; but when we were about three hundred or four
+hundred yards from the point, the canoe struck with force against the
+trunk of a tree which was planted in the bottom of the lake, and the
+extremity of which barely reached the surface of the water.[AD] It
+needed no more to break a hole in so frail a vessel; the canoe was
+pierced through the bottom and filled in a trice; and despite all our
+efforts we could not get off the tree, which had penetrated two or three
+feet within her; perhaps that was our good fortune, for the opening was
+at least a yard long. One of the men, who was an expert swimmer,
+stripped, and was about to go ashore with an axe lashed to his back, to
+make a raft for us, when the other canoe, which had been proceeding up
+the lake, and was a mile ahead, perceived our signals of distress, and
+came to our succor. They carried us to land, where it was necessary to
+encamp forthwith, as well to dry ourselves as to mend the canoe.
+
+[Footnote AD: A _snag_ of course, of the nature of which the young
+Canadian seems to have been ignorant.]
+
+On the 7th, Mr. A. Stuart, whom we had left behind at Kettle falls, came
+up with us, and we pursued our route in company. Toward evening we met
+natives, camped on the bank of the river: they gave us a letter from
+which we learned that Mr. M'Donald and his party had passed there on the
+4th. The women at this camp were busy spinning the coarse wool of the
+mountain sheep: they had blankets or mantles, woven or platted of the
+same material, with a heavy fringe all round: I would gladly have
+purchased one of these, but as we were to carry all our baggage on our
+backs across the mountains, was forced to relinquish the idea. Having
+bought of these savages some pieces of dried venison, we pursued our
+journey. The country began to be ascending; the stream was very rapid;
+and we made that day little progress.
+
+On the 8th we began to see snow on the shoals or sand-banks of the
+river: the atmosphere grew very cold. The banks on either side presented
+only high hills covered to the top with impenetrable forests. While the
+canoes were working up a considerable rapid, I climbed the hills with
+Mr. M'Gillis, and we walked on, following the course of the river, some
+five or six miles. The snow was very deep in the ravines or narrow
+gorges which are found between the bases of the hills. The most common
+trees are the Norway pine and the cedar: the last is here, as on the
+borders of the sea, of a prodigious size.
+
+On the 9th and 10th, as we advanced but slowly, the country presented
+the same aspect as on the 8th. Toward evening of the 10th, we perceived
+a-head of us a chain of high mountains entirely covered with snow. The
+bed of the river was hardly more than sixty yards wide, and was filled
+with dry banks composed of coarse gravel and small pebble.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+     Course of the Columbia River.--Canoe River.--Foot-march toward the
+     Rocky Mountains.--Passage of the Mountains.
+
+
+On the 11th, that is to say, one month, day for day, after our departure
+from the falls, we quitted the Columbia, to enter a little stream to
+which Mr. Thompson had given, in 1811, the name of _Canoe_ river, from
+the fact that it was on this fork that he constructed the canoes which
+carried him to the Pacific.
+
+The Columbia, which in the portion above the falls (not taking into
+consideration some local sinuosities) comes from the N.N.E., takes a
+bend here so that the stream appears to flow from the S.E.[AE] Some
+boatmen, and particularly Mr. Regis Bruguier, who had ascended that
+river to its source, informed me that it came out of two small lakes,
+not far from the chain of the Rocky Mountains, which, at that place,
+diverges considerably to the east. According to Arrowsmith's map, the
+course of the _Tacoutche Tesse_, from its mouth in the Pacific Ocean, to
+its source in the Rocky mountains, is about twelve hundred English
+miles, or four hundred French leagues of twenty-five to a degree; that
+is to say, from two hundred and forty to two hundred and eighty miles
+from west to east, from its mouth to the first falls: seven hundred and
+fifty miles nearly from S.S.W. to N.N.E., from the first rapids to the
+bend at the confluence of _Canoe_ river; and one hundred and fifty or
+one hundred and eighty miles from that confluence to its source. We were
+not provided with the necessary instruments to determine the latitude,
+and still less the longitude, of our different stations; but it took us
+four or five days to go up from the factory at Astoria to the falls, and
+we could not have made less than sixty miles a day: and, as I have just
+remarked, we occupied an entire month in getting from the falls to Canoe
+river: deducting four or five days, on which we did not travel, there
+remain twenty-five days march; and it is not possible that we made less
+than thirty miles a day, one day with another.
+
+[Footnote AE: Mr. Franchere uniformly mentions the direction from which
+a stream appears to flow, not that toward which it runs; a natural
+method on the part of one who was ascending the current.]
+
+We ascended Canoe river to the point where it ceases to be navigable,
+and encamped in the same place where Mr. Thompson wintered in 1810-'11.
+We proceeded immediately to secure our canoes, and to divide the baggage
+among the men, giving each fifty pounds to carry, including his
+provisions. A sack of _pemican_, or pounded meat, which we found in a
+_cache_, where it had been left for us, was a great acquisition, as our
+supplies were nearly exhausted.
+
+On the 12th we began our foot march to the mountains, being twenty-four
+in number, rank and file. Mr. A. Stuart remained at the portage to
+bestow in a place of safety the effects which we could not carry, such
+as boxes, kegs, camp-kettles, &c. We traversed first some swamps, next a
+dense bit of forest, and then we found ourselves marching up the
+gravelly banks of the little _Canoe_ river. Fatigue obliged us to camp
+early.
+
+On the 13th we pursued our journey, and entered into the valleys between
+the mountains, where there lay not less than four or five feet of snow.
+We were obliged to ford the river ten or a dozen times in the course of
+the day, sometimes with the water up to our necks. These frequent
+fordings were rendered necessary by abrupt and steep rocks or bluffs,
+which it was impossible to get over without plunging into the wood for a
+great distance. The stream being very swift, and rushing over a bed of
+stones, one of the men fell and lost a sack containing our last piece of
+salt pork, which we were preserving as a most precious treasure. The
+circumstances in which we found ourselves made us regard this as a most
+unfortunate accident. We encamped that night at the foot of a steep
+mountain, and sent on Mr. Pillet and the guide, M'Kay, to hasten a
+supply of provisions to meet us.
+
+On the morning of the 14th we began to climb the mountain which we had
+before us. We were obliged to stop every moment, to take breath, so
+stiff was the ascent. Happily it had frozen hard the night before, and
+the crust of the snow was sufficient to bear us. After two or three
+hours of incredible exertions and fatigues, we arrived at the _plateau_
+or summit, and followed the footprints of those who had preceded us.
+This mountain is placed between two others a great deal more elevated,
+compared with which it is but a hill, and of which, indeed, it is only,
+as it were, the valley. Our march soon became fatiguing, on account of
+the depth of the snow, which, softened by the rays of the sun, could no
+longer bear us as in the morning. We were obliged to follow exactly the
+traces of those who had preceded us, and to plunge our legs up to the
+knees in the holes they had made, so that it was as if we had put on and
+taken off, at every step, a very large pair of boots. At last we arrived
+at a good hard bottom, and a clear space, which our guide said was a
+little lake frozen over, and here we stopped for the night. This lake,
+or rather these lakes (for there are two) are situated in the midst of
+the valley or _cup_ of the mountains. On either side were immense
+glaciers, or ice-bound rocks, on which the rays of the setting sun
+reflected the most beautiful prismatic colors. One of these icy peaks
+was like a fortress of rock; it rose perpendicularly some fifteen or
+eighteen hundred feet above the level of the lakes, and had the summit
+covered with ice. Mr. J. Henry, who first discovered the pass, gave this
+extraordinary rock the name of _M'Gillivray's Rock_, in honor of one of
+the partners of the N.W. Company. The lakes themselves are not much over
+three or four hundred yards in circuit, and not over two hundred yards
+apart. Canoe river, which, as we have already seen, flows to the west,
+and falls into the Columbia, takes its rise in one of them; while the
+other gives birth to one of the branches of the _Athabasca_, which runs
+first eastward, then northward, and which, after its junction with the
+_Unjighah_, north of the Lake of the Mountains, takes the name of
+_Slave_ river, as far the lake of that name, and afterward that of
+_M'Kenzie_ river, till it empties into, or is lost in, the Frozen ocean.
+Having cut a large pile of wood, and having, by tedious labor for nearly
+an hour, got through the ice to the clear water of the lake on which we
+were encamped, we supped frugally on pounded maize, arranged our
+bivouac, and passed a pretty good night, though it was bitterly cold.
+The most common wood of the locality was cedar and stunted pine. The
+heat of our fire made the snow melt, and by morning the embers had
+reached the solid ice: the depth from the snow surface was about five
+feet.
+
+On the 15th, we continued our route, and soon began to descend the
+mountain. At the end of three hours, we reached the banks of a
+stream--the outlet of the second lake above mentioned--here and there
+frozen over, and then again tumbling down over rock and pebbly bottom in
+a thousand fantastic gambols; and very soon we had to ford it. After a
+tiresome march, by an extremely difficult path in the midst of woods, we
+encamped in the evening under some cypresses. I had hit my right knee
+against the branch of a fallen tree on the first day of our march, and
+now began to suffer acutely with it. It was impossible, however, to
+flinch, as I must keep up with the party or be left to perish.
+
+On the 16th, our path lay through thick swamps and forest; we recrossed
+the small stream we had forded the day before, and our guide conducted
+us to the banks of the _Athabasca_, which we also forded. As this
+passage was the last to be made, we dried our clothes, and pursued our
+journey through a more agreeable country than on the preceding days. In
+the evening we camped on the margin of a verdant plain, which, the guide
+informed us, was called _Coro prairie_. We had met in the course of the
+day several buffalo tracks, and a number of the bones of that quadruped
+bleached by time. Our flesh-meat having given out entirely, our supper
+consisted in some handfuls of corn, which we parched in a pan.
+
+We resumed our route very early on the 17th, and after passing a forest
+of trembling poplar or aspen, we again came in sight of the river which
+we had left the day before. Arriving then at an elevated promontory or
+cape, our guide made us turn back in order to pass it at its most
+accessible point. After crossing it, not without difficulty, we soon
+came upon fresh horse-prints, a sure indication that there were some of
+those animals in our neighborhood. Emerging from the forest, each took
+the direction which he thought would lead soonest to an encampment. We
+all presently arrived at an old house which the traders of the N.W.
+Company had once constructed, but which had been abandoned for some four
+or five years. The site of this trading post is the most charming that
+can be imagined: suffice to say that it is built on the bank of the
+beautiful river _Athabasca_, and is surrounded by green, and smiling
+prairies and superb woodlands. Pity there is nobody there to enjoy these
+rural beauties and to praise, while admiring them, the Author of Nature.
+We found there Mr. Pillet, and one of Mr. J. M'Donald's party, who had
+his leg broken by the kick of a horse. After regaling ourselves with
+_pemican_ and some fresh venison, we set out again, leaving two of the
+party to take care of the lame man, and went on about eight or nine
+miles farther to encamp.
+
+On the 18th, we had rain. I took the lead, and after having walked about
+ten or twelve miles, on the slope of a mountain denuded of trees, I
+perceived some smoke issuing from a tuft of trees in the bottom of a
+valley, and near the river. I descended immediately, and reached a small
+camp, where I found two men who were coming to meet us with four horses.
+I made them fire off two guns as a signal to the rest of our people who
+were coming up in the rear, and presently we heard it repeated on the
+river, from which we were not far distant. We repaired thither, and
+found two of the men, who had been left at the last ford, and who,
+having constructed a bark canoe, were descending the river. I made one
+of them disembark, and took his place, my knee being so painful that I
+could walk no further. Meanwhile the whole party came up; they loaded
+the horses, and pursued their route. In the course of the day my
+companion (an Iroquois) and I, shot seven ducks. Coming, at last, to a
+high promontory called _Millet's rock_, we found some of our
+foot-travellers with Messrs. Stewart and Clarke, who were on horseback,
+all at a stand, doubting whether it would answer to wade round the base
+of the rock, which dipped in the water. We sounded the stream for them,
+and found it fordable. So they all passed round, thereby avoiding the
+inland path, which is excessively fatiguing by reason of the hills,
+which it is necessary perpetually to mount and descend. We encamped, to
+the number of seven, at the entrance of what at high water might be a
+lake, but was then but a flat of blackish sand, with a narrow channel in
+the centre. Here we made an excellent supper on the wild ducks, while
+those who were behind had nothing to eat.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+     Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains.--Description of this
+     Post.--Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.--Mountain
+     Sheep, &c.--Continuation of the Journey.--Unhappy
+     Accident.--Reflections.--News from Canada.--Hunter's
+     Lodge.--Pembina and Red Deer Rivers.
+
+
+On the 19th we raised our camp and followed the shore of the little dry
+lake, along a smooth sandy beach, having abandoned our little bark
+canoe, both because it had become nearly unserviceable, and because we
+knew ourselves to be very near the Rocky Mountains House. In fact, we
+had not gone above five or six miles when we discerned a column of smoke
+on the opposite side of the stream. We immediately forded across, and
+arrived at the post, where we found Messrs. M'Donald, Stuart, and
+M'Kenzie, who had preceded us only two days.
+
+The post of the Rocky Mountains, in English, _Rocky Mountains House_, is
+situated on the shore of the little lake I have mentioned, in the midst
+of a wood, and is surrounded, except on the water side, by steep rocks,
+inhabited only by the mountain sheep and goat. Here is seen in the west
+the chain of the Rocky Mountains, whose summits are covered with
+perpetual snow. On the lake side, _Millet's Rock_, of which I have
+spoken above, is in full view, of an immense height, and resembles the
+front of a huge church seen in perspective. The post was under the
+charge of a Mr. Decoigne. He does not procure many furs for the company,
+which has only established the house as a provision depot, with the view
+of facilitating the passage of the mountains to those of its _employes_
+who are repairing to, or returning from, the Columbia.
+
+People speak so often of the Rocky Mountains, and appear to know so
+little about them, that the reader will naturally desire me to say here
+a word on that subject. If we are to credit travellers, and the most
+recent maps, these mountains extend nearly in a straight line, from the
+35th or 36th degree of north latitude, to the mouth of the _Unjighah_,
+or _M'Kenzie's river_, in the Arctic ocean, in latitude 65 deg. or 66 deg. N.
+This distance of thirty degrees of latitude, or seven hundred and fifty
+leagues, equivalent to two thousand two hundred and fifty English miles
+or thereabouts, is, however, only the mean side of a right-angled
+triangle, the base of which occupies twenty-six degrees of longitude, in
+latitude 35 deg. or 36 deg., that is to say, is about sixteen hundred miles
+long, while the chain of mountains forms the _hypotenuse_; so that the
+real, and as it were diagonal, length of the chain, across the
+continent, must be very near three thousand miles from S.E. to N.W. In
+such a vast extent of mountains, the perpendicular height and width of
+base must necessarily be very unequal. We were about eight days in
+crossing them; whence I conclude, from our daily rate of travel, that
+they may have, at this point, i.e., about latitude 54 deg., a base of two
+hundred miles.
+
+The geographer Pinkerton is assuredly mistaken, when he gives these
+mountains an elevation of but three thousand feet above the level of the
+sea; from my own observations I would not hesitate to give them six
+thousand; we attained, in crossing them, an elevation probably of
+fifteen hundred feet above the valleys, and were not, perhaps, nearer
+than half way of their total height, while the valleys themselves must
+be considerably elevated above the level of the Pacific, considering the
+prodigious number of rapids and falls which are met in the Columbia,
+from the first falls to Canoe river. Be that as it may, if these
+mountains yield to the Andes in elevation and extent, they very much
+surpass in both respects the Apalachian chain, regarded until recently
+as the principal mountains of North America: they give rise,
+accordingly, to an infinity of streams, and to the greatest rivers of
+the continent.[AF]
+
+[Footnote AF: This is interesting, as the rough calculation of an
+unscientific traveller, unprovided with instruments, and at that date.
+The real height of the Rocky Mountains, as now ascertained, averages
+twelve thousand feet; the highest known peak is about sixteen
+thousand.--ED.]
+
+They offer a vast and unexplored field to natural history: no botanist,
+no mineralogist, has yet examined them. The first travellers called them
+the Glittering mountains, on account of the infinite number of immense
+rock crystals, which, they say, cover their surface, and which, when
+they are not covered with snow, or in the bare places, reflect to an
+immense distance the rays of the sun. The name of Rocky mountains was
+given them, probably, by later travellers, in consequence of the
+enormous isolated rocks which they offer here and there to the view. In
+fact, Millet's rock, and _M'Gillivray's_ above all, appeared to me
+wonders of nature. Some think that they contain metals, and precious
+stones.
+
+With the exception of the mountain sheep and goat, the animals of the
+Rocky mountains, if these rocky passes support any, are not better known
+than their vegetable and mineral productions. The mountain sheep resorts
+generally to steep rocks, where it is impossible for men or even for
+wolves to reach them: we saw several on the rocks which surround the
+Mountain House. This animal has great curved horns, like those of the
+domestic ram: its wool is long, but coarse; that on the belly is the
+finest and whitest. The Indians who dwell near the mountains, make
+blankets of it, similar to ours, which they exchange with the Indians of
+the Columbia for fish, and other commodities. The ibex, or mountain
+goat, frequents, like the sheep, the top and the declivities of the
+rocks: it differs from the sheep in having hair instead of wool, and
+straight horns projecting backward, instead of curved ones. The color is
+also different. The natives soften the horns of these animals by
+boiling, and make platters, spoons, &c., of them, in a very artistic
+manner.
+
+Mr. Decoigne had not sufficient food for us, not having expected so many
+people to arrive at once. His hunters were then absent on _Smoke_ river
+(so called by some travellers who saw in the neighborhood a volcanic
+mountain belching smoke), in quest of game. We were therefore compelled
+to kill one of the horses for food. We found no birch bark either to
+make canoes, and set the men to work in constructing some of wood. For
+want of better materials, we were obliged to use poplar. On the 22d, the
+three men whom we had left at the old-house, arrived in a little canoe
+made of two elk-skins sewed together, and stretched like a drum, on a
+frame of poles.
+
+On the 24th, four canoes being ready, we fastened them together two and
+two, and embarked, to descend the river to an old post called _Hunter's
+Lodge_, where Mr. Decoigne, who was to return with us to Canada,
+informed us that we should find some bark canoes _en cache_, placed
+there for the use of the persons who descend the river. The water was
+not deep, and the stream was rapid; we glided along, so to speak, for
+ten or a dozen leagues, and encamped, having lost sight of the
+mountains. In proportion as we advanced, the banks of the river grew
+less steep, and the country became more agreeable.
+
+On the 25th, having only a little _pemican_ left, which we wished to
+keep, we sent forward a hunter in the little elk-skin canoe, to kill
+some game. About ten o'clock, we found him waiting for us with two
+moose that he had killed. He had suspended the hearts from the branch of
+a tree as a signal. We landed some men to help him in cutting up and
+shipping the game. We continued to glide safely down. But toward two
+o'clock, P.M., after doubling a point, we got into a considerable rapid,
+where, by the maladroitness of those who managed the double pirogue in
+which I was, we met with a melancholy accident. I had proposed to go
+ashore, in order to lighten the canoes, which were loaded to the water's
+edge; but the steersman insisted that we could go down safe, while the
+bow-man was turning the head of the pirogue toward the beach; by this
+manoeuvre we were brought athwart the stream, which was carrying us fast
+toward the falls; just then our frail bark struck upon a sunken rock;
+the lower canoe broke amid-ships and filled instantly, and the upper one
+being lighted, rolled over, precipitating us all into the water. Two of
+our men, Olivier Roy Lapensee and Andre Belanger, were drowned; and it
+was not without extreme difficulty that we succeeded in saving Messrs.
+Pillet and Wallace, as well as a man named _J. Hurteau_. The latter was
+so far gone that we were obliged to have recourse to the usual means for
+the resuscitation of drowned persons. The men lost all their effects;
+the others recovered but a part of theirs; and all our provisions went.
+Toward evening, in ascending the river (for I had gone about two miles
+below, to recover the effects floating down), we found the body of
+Lapensee. We interred it as decently as we could, and planted at his
+grave a cross, on which I inscribed with the point of my knife, his name
+and the manner and date of his death. Belanger's body was not found. If
+anything could console the shades of the departed for a premature and
+unfortunate end, it would be, no doubt, that the funeral rites have been
+paid to their remains, and that they themselves have given their names
+to the places where they perished: it is thus that the shade of
+Palinurus rejoiced in the regions below, at learning from the mouth of
+the Sibyl, that the promontory near which he was drowned would
+henceforth be called by his name: _gaudet cognomine terra_. The rapid
+and the point of land where the accident I have described took place,
+will bear, and bears already, probably, the name of _Lapensee_.[AG]
+
+[Footnote AG: Mr. Franchere, not having the fear of the _Abbe Gaume_
+before his eyes, so wrote in his Journal of 1814; finding consolation in
+a thought savoring, we confess, more of Virgil than of the catechism. It
+is a classic term that calls to our mind rough Captain _Thorn's_
+sailor-like contempt for his literary passengers so comically described
+by Mr. _Irving_. Half of the humor as well as of the real interest of
+Mr. Franchere's charming narrative, is lost by one who has never read
+"Astoria."]
+
+On the 26th, a part of our people embarked in the three canoes which
+remained, and the others followed the banks of the river on foot. We saw
+in several places some veins of bituminous coal, on the banks between
+the surface of the water and that of the plain, say thirty feet below
+the latter; the veins had a dip of about 25 deg.. We tried some and found it
+to burn well. We halted in the evening near a small stream, where we
+constructed some rafts, to carry all our people.
+
+On the 27th, I went forward in the little canoe of skins, with the two
+hunters. We soon killed an elk, which we skinned and suspended the hide,
+besmeared with blood, from the branch of a tree at the extremity of a
+point, in order that the people behind, as they came up, might perceive
+and take in the fruit of our chase. After fortifying ourselves with a
+little food, we continued to glide down, and encamped for the night near
+a thick wood where our hunters, from the tracks they observed, had hopes
+of encountering and capturing some bears. This hope was not realized.
+
+On the 28th, a little after quitting camp, we killed a swan. While I was
+busy cooking it, the hunters having plunged into the wood, I heard a
+rifle-shot, which seemed to me to proceed from a direction opposite to
+that which they had taken. They returned very soon running, and were
+extremely surprised to learn that it was not I who had fired it.
+Nevertheless, the canoes and rafts having overtaken us, we continued to
+descend the river. Very soon we met a bark canoe, containing two men and
+a woman, who were ascending the river and bringing letters and some
+goods for the _Rocky Mountains House_. We learned from these letters
+addressed to Mr. Decoigne, several circumstances of the war, and among
+others the defeat of Captain Barclay on Lake Erie. We arrived that
+evening at _Hunter's Lodge_, where we found four new birch-bark canoes.
+We got ready two of them, and resumed our journey down, on the 31st. Mr.
+Pillet set out before us with the hunters, at a very early hour. They
+killed an elk, which they left on a point, and which we took in. The
+country through which we passed that day is the most charming possible;
+the river is wide, handsome, and bordered with low outjutting points,
+covered with birch and poplar.
+
+On the 1st of June, in the evening, we encamped at the confluence of the
+river _Pembina_. This stream comes from the south, and takes its rise in
+one of the spurs of the great chain of the Rocky mountains; ascending it
+for two days, and crossing a neck of land about seventy-five miles, one
+reaches Fort Augustus, a trading post on the _Saskatchawine_ river.
+Messrs. M'Donald and M'Kenzie had taken this route, and had left for us
+half a sack of pemican in a _cache_, at the mouth of the river
+_Pembina_. After landing that evening, Mr. Stuart and I amused ourselves
+with angling, but took only five or six small fish.
+
+On the 2d, we passed the confluence of _Little Slave Lake_ river. At
+eight o'clock in the morning, we met a band or family of Indians, of the
+_Knisteneaux_ tribe. They had just killed a buffalo, which we bought of
+them for a small brass-kettle. We could not have had a more seasonable
+_rencontre_, for our provisions were all consumed.
+
+On the 3d, we reached _Little Red Elk_ river, which we began to ascend,
+quitting the _Athabasca_, or _Great Red Elk_. This stream was very
+narrow in its channel, and obstructed with boulders: we were obliged to
+take to the shore, while some of the men dragged along the canoes. Their
+method was to lash poles across, and wading themselves, lift the canoes
+over the rocks--a laborious and infinitely tedious operation. The march
+along the banks was not less disagreeable: for we had to traverse points
+of forest where the fire had passed, and which were filled with fallen
+trees.
+
+Wallace and I having stopped to quench our thirst at a rill, the rest
+got in advance of us; and we lost our way in a labyrinth of buffalo
+tracks which we mistook for the trail, so that we wandered about for
+three hours before we came up with the party, who began to fear for our
+safety, and were firing signal-guns to direct us. As the river now grew
+deeper, we all embarked in the canoes, and about evening overtook our
+hunters, who had killed a moose and her two calves.
+
+We continued our journey on the 4th, sometimes seated in our canoes,
+sometimes marching along the river on foot, and encamped in the evening,
+excessively fatigued.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+     Red Deer Lake.--Antoine Dejarlais.--Beaver River.--N.
+     Nadeau.--Moose River.--Bridge Lake.--Saskatchawine River.--Fort
+     Vermilion.--Mr. Hallet.--Trading-Houses.--Beautiful
+     Country.--Reflections.
+
+
+The 5th of June brought us to the beautiful sheet of water called _Red
+Deer lake_, irregular in shape, dotted with islands, and about forty
+miles in length by thirty in its greatest width. We met, about the
+middle of it, a small canoe conducted by two young women. They were
+searching for gulls' and ducks' eggs on the islands, this being the
+season of laying for those aquatics. They told us that their father was
+not far distant from the place where we met them. In fact, we presently
+saw him appear in a canoe with his two boys, rounding a little isle. We
+joined him, and learned that his name was Antoine Dejarlais; that he
+had been a guide in the service of the Northwest Company, but had left
+them since 1805. On being made acquainted with our need of provisions,
+he offered us a great quantity of eggs, and made one of our men embark
+with his two daughters in their little canoe, to seek some more
+substantial supplies at his cabin, on the other side of the lake. He
+himself accompanied us as far as a portage of about twenty-five yards
+formed at the outlet of the lake by a Beaver dam. Having performed the
+portage, and passed a small pond or marsh, we encamped to await the
+return of our man. He arrived the next morning, with Dejarlais, bringing
+us about fifty pounds of dried venison and from ten to twelve pounds of
+tallow. We invited our host to breakfast with us: it was the least we
+could do after the good offices he had rendered us. This man was married
+to an Indian woman, and lived with his family, on the produce of his
+chase; he appeared quite contented with his lot. Nobody at least
+disputed with him the sovereignty of Red Deer lake, of which he had; as
+it were, taken possession. He begged me to read for him two letters
+which he had had in his possession for two years, and of which he did
+not yet know the contents. They were from one of his sisters, and dated
+at _Vercheres_, in Canada. I even thought that I recognised the
+handwriting of Mr. L.G. Labadie, teacher of that parish. At last, having
+testified to this good man, in suitable terms, our gratitude for the
+services he had rendered us, we quitted him and prosecuted our journey.
+
+After making two portages, we arrived on the banks of Beaver river,
+which was here but a rivulet. It is by this route that the canoes
+ordinarily pass to reach Little Slave lake and the Athabasca country,
+from the head of Lake Superior, via., _Cumberland House_, on _English
+river_. We were obliged by the shallowness of the stream, to drag along
+our canoes, walking on a bottom or beach of sand, where we began to feel
+the importunity of the mosquitoes. One of the hunters scoured the woods
+for game but without success. By-and-by we passed a small canoe turned
+bottom up and covered with a blanket. Soon after we came to a cabin or
+lodge, where we found an old Canadian hunter named _Nadeau_. He was
+reduced to the last stage of weakness, having had nothing to eat for two
+days. Nevertheless, a young man who was married to one of his daughters,
+came in shortly after, with the good news that he had just killed a
+buffalo; a circumstance which determined us to encamp there for the
+night. We sent some of our men to get in the meat. Nadeau gave us half
+of it, and told us that we should find, thirty miles lower down, at the
+foot of a pine tree, a _cache_, where he had deposited ten swan-skins,
+and some of martin, with a net, which he prayed us to take to the next
+trading-post. We quitted this good fellow the next morning, and pursued
+our way. Arriving at the place indicated, we found the _cache_, and took
+the net, leaving the other articles. A short distance further, we came
+to Moose river, which we had to ascend, in order to reach the lake of
+that name. The water in this river was so low that we were obliged
+entirely to unload the canoes, and to lash poles across them, as we had
+done before, that the men might carry them on their shoulders over the
+places where they could not be floated. Having distributed the baggage
+to the remainder of the hands, we pursued our way through the woods,
+under the guidance of Mr. Decoigne.
+
+This gentleman, who had not passed here for nineteen years, soon lost
+his way, and we got separated into small parties, in the course of the
+afternoon, some going one way, and some another, in search of Moose
+lake. But as we had outstripped the men who carried the baggage and the
+small stock of provision that old Nadeau had given us, Mr. Wallace and I
+thought it prudent to retrace our steps and keep with the rear-guard. We
+soon met Mr. Pillet and one of the hunters. The latter, ferreting the
+woods on both sides of a trail that he had discovered, soon gave a
+whoop, to signify that we should stop. Presently emerging from the
+underwood, he showed us a horsewhip which he had found, and from which
+and from other unmistakeable signs, he was confident the trail would
+lead either to the lake or a navigable part of the river. The men with
+the baggage then coming up, we entered the thicket single file, and were
+conducted by this path, in a very short time, to the river, on the banks
+of which were visible the traces of an old camping ground. The night was
+coming on; and soon after, the canoes arrived, to our great
+satisfaction; for we had begun to fear that they had already passed. The
+splashing of their paddles was a welcome sound, and we who had been wise
+enough to keep behind, all encamped together.
+
+Very early on the 8th, I set out accompanied by one of the hunters, in
+quest of Messrs. D. Stuart, Clarke and Decoigne, who had gone on ahead,
+the night previous. I soon found MM. Clarke and M'Gillis encamped on the
+shore of the lake. The canoes presently arrived and we embarked; MM.
+Stuart and Decoigne rejoined us shortly after, and informed us that they
+had bivouacked on the shore of Lac _Puant_, or Stinking lake, a pond
+situated about twelve miles E.N.E. from the lake we were now entering.
+Finding ourselves thus reunited, we traversed the latter, which is about
+eighteen miles in circuit, and has very pretty shores. We encamped, very
+early, on an island, in order to use old Nadeau's fishing net. I visited
+it that evening and brought back three carp and two water-hens. We left
+it set all night, and the next morning found in it twenty white-fish.
+Leaving camp at an early hour, we gained the entrance of a small stream
+that descends between some hills of moderate elevation, and there
+stopped to breakfast. I found the white-fish more delicious in flavor,
+even than the salmon. We had again to foot it, following the bank of
+this little stream. It was a painful task, as we were obliged to open a
+path through thick underbrush, in the midst of a rain that lasted all
+day and kept us drenched. Two men being left in each canoe, conveyed
+them up the river about thirty miles, as far as Long lake--a narrow
+pond, on the margin of which we spent the night.
+
+On the 10th, we got through this lakelet, and entered another small
+stream, which it was necessary to navigate in the same manner as the
+preceding, and which conducted us to Bridge lake. The latter received
+its name from a sort of bridge or causeway, formed at its southern
+extremity, and which is nothing more than a huge beaver dam. We found
+here a lodge, where were a young man and two women, who had charge of
+some horses appertaining to one of the Hudson's Bay trading houses. We
+borrowed of them half a dozen pack horses, and crossed the bridge with
+them. After surmounting a considerable hill, we reached an open, level,
+and dry prairie, which conducted us in about two hours to an ancient
+trading-post on the banks of the _Saskatchawine_. Knowing that we were
+near a factory, we made our toilets as well as we could, before
+arriving. Toward sundown, we reached Fort Vermilion, which is situated
+on the bank of a river, at the foot of a superb hill.
+
+We found at this post some ninety persons, men, women, and children;
+these people depend for subsistence on the chase, and fishing with
+hooks and lines, which is very precarious. Mr. Hallet, the clerk in
+charge was absent, and we were dismayed to hear that there were no
+provisions on the place: a very disagreeable piece of news for people
+famished as we were. We had been led to suppose that if we could only
+reach the plains of the Saskatchawine, we should be in the land of
+plenty. Mr. Hallet, however, was not long in arriving: he had two
+quarters of buffalo meat brought out, which had been laid in ice, and
+prepared us supper. Mr. Hallet was a polite sociable man, loving his
+ease passably well, and desirous of living in these wild countries, as
+people do in civilized lands. Having testified to him our surprise at
+seeing in one of the buildings a large _cariole_, like those of Canada,
+he informed us that having horses, he had had this carriage made in
+order to enjoy a sleigh-ride; but that the workmen having forgot to take
+the measure of the doors of the building before constructing it, it was
+found when finished, much too large for them, and could never be got out
+of the room where it was; and it was like to remain there a long time,
+as he was not disposed to demolish the house for the pleasure of using
+the cariole.
+
+By the side of the factory of the Northwest Company, is another
+belonging to the Company of Hudson's Bay. In general these
+trading-houses are constructed thus, one close to the other, and
+surrounded with a common palisade, with a door of communication in the
+interior for mutual succor, in case of attack on the part of the
+Indians. The latter, in this region, particularly the Black-feet,
+_Gros-ventres_, and those of the Yellow river, are very ferocious: they
+live by the chase, but bring few furs to the traders; and the latter
+maintain these posts principally to procure themselves provisions.
+
+On the. 11th, after breakfasting at Fort Vermilion, we resumed our
+journey, with six or seven pounds of tallow for our whole stock of food.
+This slender supply brought us through to the evening of the third day,
+when we had for supper two ounces of tallow each.
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, we killed a wild goose, and toward midday,
+collected some flag-root and _choux-gras_, a wild herb, which we boiled
+with the small game: we did not forget to throw into the pot the little
+tallow we had left, and made a delicious repast. Toward the decline of
+day, we had the good luck to kill a buffalo.
+
+On the 15th, MM. Clarke and Decoigne having landed during our course, to
+hunt, returned presently with the agreeable intelligence that they had
+killed three buffaloes. We immediately encamped, and sent the greater
+part of the men to cut up the meat and jerk it. This operation lasted
+till the next evening, and we set forward again in the canoes on the
+17th, with about six hundred pounds of meat half cured. The same evening
+we perceived from our camp several herds of buffaloes, but did not give
+chase, thinking we had enough meat to take us to the next post.
+
+The river _Saskatchawine_ flows over a bed composed of sand and marl,
+which contributes not a little to diminish the purity and transparency
+of its waters, which, like those of the Missouri, are turbid and
+whitish. Except for that it is one of the prettiest rivers in the world.
+The banks are perfectly charming, and offer in many places a scene the
+fairest, the most smiling, and the best diversified that can be seen or
+imagined: hills in varied forms, crowned with superb groves; valleys
+agreeably embrowned, at evening and morning, by the prolonged shadow of
+the hills, and of the woods which adorn them; herds of light-limbed
+antelopes, and heavy colossal buffalo--the former bounding along the
+slopes of the hills, the latter trampling under their heavy feet the
+verdure of the plains; all these champaign beauties reflected and
+doubled as it were, by the waters of the river; the melodious and varied
+song of a thousand birds, perched on the tree-tops; the refreshing
+breath of the zephyrs; the serenity of the sky; the purity and salubrity
+of the air; all, in a word, pours contentment and joy into the soul of
+the enchanted spectator. It is above all in the morning, when the sun is
+rising, and in the evening when he is setting, that the spectacle is
+really ravishing. I could not detach my regards from that superb
+picture, till the nascent obscurity had obliterated its perfection.
+Then, to the sweet pleasure that I had tasted, succeeded a _triste_, not
+to say, a sombre, melancholy. How comes it to pass, I said to myself,
+that so beautiful a country is not inhabited by human creatures? The
+songs, the hymns, the prayers, of the laborer and the artisan, shall
+they never be heard in these fine plains? Wherefore, while in Europe,
+and above all in England, so many thousands of men do not possess as
+their own an inch of ground, and cultivate the soil of their
+country for proprietors who scarcely leave them whereon to support
+existence;--wherefore--do so many millions of acres of apparently fat
+and fertile land, remain uncultivated and absolutely useless? Or, at
+least, why do they support only herds of wild animals? Will men always
+love better to vegetate all their lives on an ungrateful soil, than to
+seek afar fertile regions, in order to pass in peace and plenty, at
+least the last portion of their days? But I deceive myself; it is not
+so easy as one thinks, for the poor man to better his condition: he has
+not the means of transporting himself to distant countries, or he has
+not those of acquiring a property there; for these untilled lands,
+deserted, abandoned, do not appertain to whoever wishes to establish
+himself upon them and reduce them to culture; they have owners, and from
+these must be purchased the right of rendering them productive! Besides
+one ought not to give way to illusions: these countries, at times so
+delightful, do not enjoy a perpetual spring; they have their winter, and
+a rigorous one; a piercing cold is then spread through the atmosphere;
+deep snows cover the surface; the frozen rivers flow only for the fish;
+the trees are stripped of their leaves and hung with icicles; the
+verdure of the plains has disappeared; the hills and valleys offer but a
+uniform whiteness; Nature has lost all her beauty; and man has enough to
+do, to shelter himself from the injuries of the inclement season.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+     Fort Montee--Cumberland House.--Lake Bourbon.--Great Winipeg
+     Rapids.--Lake Winipeg.--Trading-House.--Lake of the Woods.--Rainy
+     Lake House, &c.
+
+
+On the 18th of June (a day which its next anniversary was to render for
+ever celebrated in the annals of the world), we re-embarked at an early
+hour: and the wind rising, spread sail, a thing we had not done before,
+since we quitted the river Columbia. In the afternoon the clouds
+gathered thick and black, and we had a gust, accompanied with hail, but
+of short duration; the weather cleared up again, and about sundown we
+arrived at _Le Fort de la Montee_, so called, on account of its being a
+depot, where the traders going south, leave their canoes and take
+pack-horses to reach their several posts. We found here, as at Fort
+Vermilion, two trading-houses joined together, to make common cause
+against the Indians; one belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, the
+other to the company of the Northwest: the Hudson's Bay house being then
+under the charge of a Mr. Prudent, and the N.W. Company's under a Mr.
+John M'Lean. Mr. de Roche Blave, one of the partners of the last company
+having the superintendence of this district, where he had wintered, had
+gone to Lake Superior to attend the annual meeting of the partners.
+There were cultivated fields around the house; the barley and peas
+appeared to promise an abundant harvest. Mr. M'Lean received us as well
+as circumstances permitted; but that gentleman having no food to give
+us, and our buffalo meat beginning to spoil, we set off the next
+morning, to reach Cumberland house as quick as possible. In the course
+of the day, we passed two old forts, one of which had been built by the
+French before the conquest of Canada. According to our guide, it was the
+most distant western post that the French traders ever had in the
+northwestern wilderness. Toward evening we shot a moose. The aspect of
+the country changes considerably since leaving _Montee_; the banks of
+the river rise more boldly, and the country is covered with forests.
+
+On the 20th, we saw some elms--a tree that I had not seen hitherto,
+since my departure from Canada. We reached Fort Cumberland a little
+before the setting of the sun. This post, called in English _Cumberland
+House_, is situated at the outlet of the _Saskatchawine_, where it
+empties into _English lake_, between the 53d and 54th degrees of north
+latitude. It is a depot for those traders who are going to Slave lake or
+the Athabasca, or are returning thence, as well as for those destined
+for the Rocky mountains. It was under the orders of Mr. J.D. Campbell,
+who having gone down to Fort William, however, had left it in charge of
+a Mr. Harrison. There are two factories, as at Vermilion and la Montee.
+At this place the traders who resort every year to Fort William, leave
+their half-breed or Indian wives and families, as they can live here at
+little expense, the lake abounding in fish. Messrs. Clarke and Stuart,
+who were behind, arrived on the 22d, and in the evening we had a dance.
+They gave us four sacs of pemican, and we set off again, on the 23d, at
+eight A.M. We crossed the lake, and entered a small river, and having
+made some eighty or ninety miles under sail, encamped on a low shore,
+where the mosquitoes tormented us horribly all night.
+
+On the 24th, we passed _Muddy_ lake, and entered Lake _Bourbon_, where
+we fell in with a canoe from _York_ factory, under the command of a Mr.
+Kennedy, clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company. We collected some dozens of
+gulls' eggs, on the rocky islands of the lake: and stopping on one of
+the last at night, having a little flour left, Mr. Decoigne and I amused
+ourselves in making fritters for the next day's breakfast: an
+occupation, which despite the small amount of materials, employed us
+till we were surprised by the daybreak; the night being but brief at
+this season in that high latitude.
+
+At sunrise on the 25th, we were again afloat, passed Lake _Travers_, or
+_Cross_ lake, which empties into Lake Winipeg by a succession of
+rapids; shot down these cascades without accident, and arrived, toward
+noon, at the great rapid _Ouenipic_ or Winipeg, which is about four
+miles long. We disembarked here, and the men worked down the canoes. At
+the foot of this rapid, which is the inlet of Winipeg, we found an old
+Canadian fisherman, who called himself _King of the lake_. He might
+fairly style himself king of the fish, which are abundant and which he
+alone enjoyed. Having made a boil, and regaled ourselves with excellent
+sturgeon, we left this old man, and entered the great lake Winipeg,
+which appeared to me like a sea of fresh water. This lake is now too
+well known to need a particular description: I will content myself with
+saying that it visibly yields in extent only to Lake Superior and Great
+Slave lake: it has for tributaries several large rivers, and among
+others the Saskatchawine, the Winipeg, in the east; and Red river in the
+south; and empties into Hudson's bay by the _Nelson_, N.N.E., and the
+_Severn_, E.N.E. The shores which it bathes are generally very low; it
+appears to have little depth, and is dotted with a vast number of
+islands, lying pretty close to land. We reached one called _Egg island_,
+whence it was necessary to cross to the south to reach the main; but the
+wind was so violent that it was only at decline of day that we could
+perform the passage. We profited by the calm, to coast along all day and
+a part of the night of the 26th; but to pay for it, remained in camp on
+the 27th, till evening: the wind not suffering us to proceed. The wind
+having appeared to abate somewhat after sunset, we embarked, but were
+soon forced to land again. On the 28th, we passed the openings of
+several deep bays, and the isles of _St. Martin_, and camped at the
+bottom of a little bay, where the mosquitoes did not suffer us to close
+our eyes all night. We were rejoiced when dawn appeared, and were eager
+to embark, to free ourselves from these inconvenient guests. A calm
+permitted us that day to make good progress with our oars, and we camped
+at _Buffalo Strait_. We saw that day two Indian wigwams.
+
+The 30th brought us to Winipeg river, which we began to ascend, and
+about noon reached Port _Bas de la Riviere_. This trading post had more
+the air of a large and well-cultivated farm, than of a fur traders'
+factory: a neat and elegant mansion, built on a slight eminence, and
+surrounded with barns, stables, storehouses, &c., and by fields of
+barley, peas, oats, and potatoes, reminded us of the civilized countries
+which we had left so long ago. Messrs. Crebassa and Kennedy, who had
+this post in charge, received us with all possible hospitality, and
+supplied us with all the political news which had been learned through
+the arrival of canoes from Canada.
+
+They also informed us that Messrs M'Donald and de Rocheblave had passed,
+a few days before our arrival, having been obliged to go up Red river to
+stop the effusion of blood, which would probably have taken place but
+for their intervention, in the colony founded on that river by the earl
+of Selkirk. Mr. Miles M'Donnell, the governor of that colony, or rather
+of the _Assiniboyne_ district, had issued a proclamation forbidding all
+persons whomsoever, to send provisions of any kind out of the district.
+The Hudson's Bay traders had conformed to this proclamation, but those
+of the Northwest Company paid no attention to it, thinking it illegal,
+and had sent their servants, as usual to get provisions up the river.
+Mr. M'Donnell having heard that several hundred sacks of pemican[AH]
+were laid up in a storehouse under the care of a Mr. Pritchard, sent to
+require their surrender: Pritchard refused to deliver them, whereupon
+Mr. M'Donnell had them carried off by force. The traders who winter on
+Little Slave lake, English river, the Athabasca country, &c., learning
+this, and being aware that they would not find their usual supply at
+_Bas de la Riviere_, resolved to go and recover the seized provisions by
+force, if they were not peaceably given up. Things were in this position
+when Messrs, de Rocheblave and M'Donald arrived. They found the Canadian
+_voyageurs_ in arms, and ready to give battle to the colonists, who
+persisted in their refusal to surrender the bags of pemican. The two
+peacemakers visited the governor, and having explained to him the
+situation in which the traders of the Northwest Company would find
+themselves, by the want of necessary provisions to enable them to
+transport their peltries to Fort William, and the exasperation of their
+men, who saw no other alternative for them, but to get possession of
+those provisions or to perish of hunger, requested him to surrender the
+same without delay. Mr. M'Donnell, on his part, pointed out the misery
+to which the colonists would be reduced by a failure in the supply of
+food. In consequence of these mutual representations, it was agreed that
+one half of the pemican should be restored, and the other half remain
+for the use of the colonists. Thus was arranged, without bloodshed, the
+first difficulty which occurred between the rival companies of the
+Northwest, and of Hudson's Bay.
+
+[Footnote AH: _Pemican_, of which I have already spoken several times,
+is the Indian name for the dried and pounded meat which the natives sell
+to the traders. About fifty pounds of this meat is placed in a trough
+(_un grand vaisseau fait d'un tronc d'arbre_), and about an equal
+quantity of tallow is melted and poured over it; it is thoroughly mixed
+into one mass, and when cold, is put up in bags made of undressed
+buffalo hide, with the hair outside, and sewed up as tightly as
+possible. The meat thus impregnated with tallow, hardens, and will keep
+for years. It is eaten without any other preparation; but sometimes wild
+pears or dried berries are added, which render the flavor more
+agreeable.]
+
+Having spent the 1st of July in repairing our canoes, we re-embarked on
+the 2d, and continued to ascend Winipeg river, called also _White
+river_, on account of the great number of its cascades, which being very
+near each other, offer to the sight an almost continuous foam. We made
+that day twenty-seven portages, all very short. On the 3d, and 4th, we
+made nine more, and arrived on the 5th, at the _Lake of the Woods_. This
+lake takes its name from the great number of woody islands with which it
+is dotted. Our guide pointed out to me one of these isles, telling me
+that a Jesuit father had said mass there, and that it was the most
+remote spot to which those missionaries had ever penetrated. We encamped
+on one of the islands. The next day the wind did not allow us to make
+much progress. On the 7th, we gained the entrance of _Rainy Lake river_.
+I do not remember ever to have seen elsewhere so many mosquitoes as on
+the banks of this river. Having landed near a little rapid to lighten
+the canoes, we had the misfortune, in getting through the brush, to
+dislodge these insects from under the leaves where they had taken refuge
+from the rain of the night before; they attached themselves to us,
+followed us into the canoes, and tormented us all the remainder of the
+day.
+
+On the 8th, at sunset, we reached _Rainy Lake House_. This fort is
+situated about a mile from a considerable rapid. We saw here cultivated
+fields and domestic animals, such as horses, oxen, cows, &c. The port is
+a depot for the wintering parties of the Athabasca, and others still
+more remote, who bring to it their peltries and return from it with
+their outfits of merchandise. Mr. John Dease, to whose charge the place
+had been confided, received us in the most friendly manner possible; and
+after having made an excellent supper, we danced a part of the evening.
+
+We took leave of Mr. Dease on the 10th, well provided for the journey,
+and passing round Rainy Lake falls, and then traversing the lake
+itself, which I estimated to be forty miles long, we encamped at the
+entrance of a small river. On the next day we pursued our way, now
+thridding streams impeded with wild rice, which rendered our progress
+difficult, now traversing little lakes, now passing straits where we
+scarcely found water to float our canoes. On the 13th, we encamped near
+_Dog Portage (Portage des chiens_), where, from not having followed the
+advice of Mr. Dease, who had counselled us to take along a bag of
+pemican, we found ourselves absolutely without food.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+     Arrival at Fort William.--Description of the Fort.--News from the
+     River Columbia.
+
+
+Starving men are early-risers. We set out on the 14th before day, and
+effected the portage, which is long and difficult. At the foot of the
+rapid we found a sort of _restaurant_ or _cabaret_, kept by a man named
+_Boucher_. We treated the men to a little _eau de vie_, and breakfasted
+on some detestable sausages, poisoned with salt.
+
+After this wretched repast, we set out again, and passed toward noon,
+the _Mountain Portage_. Here the river _Kaministiquia_ flings itself
+over a rock of immense height, and forms a fall scarcely less curious to
+see than that of Niagara. Below, the succession of falls and rapids is
+constant, so that we made no fewer than thirty-six portages in the
+course of the day. Nevertheless we pursued our laborious way with good
+cheer, and without a murmur from our Canadian boatmen, who kept their
+spirits up by singing their _voyageur_ songs. At last, at about nine
+o'clock in the evening, we arrived at Fort William.
+
+Fort William is situated on Lake Superior, at the mouth of the
+_Kaministiquia_ river, about forty-five miles north of old _Grand
+Portage_. It was built in 1805, when the two rival Canadian companies
+were united, and was named in honor of Mr. (now the Honorable) William
+M'Gillivray, principal agent of the Northwest Company. The proprietors,
+perceiving that the old fort of _Grand Portage_ was on the territory
+claimed by the American government, resolved to demolish it and build
+another on the British territory. No site appeared more advantageous
+than the present for the purposes intended; the river is deep, of easy
+access, and offers a safe harbor for shipping. It is true they had to
+contend with all the difficulties consequent on a low and swampy soil;
+but by incredible labor and perseverance they succeeded in draining the
+marshes and reducing the loose and yielding soil to solidity.
+
+Fort William has really the appearance of a fort, with its palisade
+fifteen feet high, and that of a pretty village, from the number of
+edifices it encloses. In the middle of a spacious square rises a large
+building elegantly constructed, though of wood, with a long piazza or
+portico, raised about five feet from the ground, and surmounted by a
+balcony, extending along the whole front. In the centre is a saloon or
+hall, sixty feet in length by thirty in width, decorated with several
+pieces of painting, and some portraits of the leading partners. It is in
+this hall that the agents, partners, clerks, interpreters, and guides,
+take their meals together, at different tables. At each extremity of the
+apartment are two rooms; two of these are destined for the two principal
+agents; the other two to the steward and his department. The kitchen and
+servants' rooms are in the basement. On either side of this edifice, is
+another of the same extent, but of less elevation; they are each
+divided by a corridor running through its length, and contain each, a
+dozen pretty bed-rooms. One is destined for the wintering partners, the
+other for the clerks. On the east of the square is another building
+similar to the last two, and intended for the same use, and a warehouse
+where the furs are inspected and repacked for shipment. In the rear of
+these, are the lodging-house of the guides, another fur-warehouse, and
+finally, a powder magazine. The last is of stone, and has a roof covered
+with tin. At the angle is a sort of bastion, or look-out place,
+commanding a view of the lake. On the west side is seen a range of
+buildings, some of which serve for stores, and others for workshops;
+there is one for the equipment of the men, another for the fitting out
+of the canoes, one for the retail of goods, another where they sell
+liquors, bread, pork, butter, &c., and where a treat is given to the
+travellers who arrive. This consists in a white loaf, half a pound of
+butter, and a gill of rum. The _voyageurs_ give this tavern the name of
+_Cantino salope_. Behind all this is another range, where we find the
+counting-house, a fine square building, and well-lighted; another
+storehouse of stone, tin-roofed; and a _jail_, not less necessary than
+the rest. The _voyageurs_ give it the name of _pot au beurre_--the
+butter-tub. Beyond these we discover the shops of the carpenter, the
+cooper, the tinsmith, the blacksmith, &c.; and spacious yards and sheds
+for the shelter, reparation, and construction of canoes. Near the gate
+of the fort, which is on the south, are the quarters of the physician,
+and those of the chief clerk. Over the gate is a guard-house.
+
+As the river is deep at its entrance, the company has had a wharf
+constructed, extending the whole length of the fort, for the discharge
+of the vessels which it keeps on Lake Superior, whether to transport its
+furs from Fort William to the _Saut Ste. Marie_, or merchandise and
+provisions from _Saut Ste. Marie_ to Fort William. The land behind the
+fort and on both sides of it, is cleared and under tillage. We saw
+barley, peas, and oats, which had a very fine appearance. At the end of
+the clearing is the burying-ground. There are also, on the opposite bank
+of the river, a certain number of log-houses, all inhabited by old
+Canadian _voyageurs_, worn out in the service of the company, without
+having enriched themselves. Married to women of the country, and
+incumbered with large families of half-breed children, these men prefer
+to cultivate a little Indian corn and potatoes, and to fish, for a
+subsistence, rather than return to their native districts, to give their
+relatives and former acquaintance certain proofs of their misconduct or
+their imprudence.
+
+Fort William is the grand depot of the Northwest Company for their
+interior posts, and the general _rendezvous_ of the partners. The agents
+from Montreal and the wintering partners assemble here every summer, to
+receive the returns of the respective outfits, prepare for the
+operations of the ensuing season, and discuss the general interests of
+their association. The greater part of them were assembled at the time
+of our arrival. The wintering hands who are to return with their
+employers, pass also a great part of the summer here; they form a great
+encampment on the west side of the fort, outside the palisades. Those
+who engage at Montreal to go no further than Fort William or _Rainy
+lake_, and who do not _winter_, occupy yet another space, on the east
+side. The winterers, or _hivernants_, give to these last the name of
+_mangeurs de lard_, or pork-eaters. They are also called
+_comers-and-goers_. One perceives an astonishing difference between
+these two camps, which are composed sometimes of three or four hundred
+men each; that of the pork-eaters is always dirty and disorderly, while
+that of the winterers is clean and neat.
+
+To clear its land and improve its property, the company inserts a clause
+in the engagement of all who enter its service as canoe-men, that they
+shall work for a certain number of days during their stay at Fort
+William. It is thus that it has cleared and drained the environs of the
+fort, and has erected so many fine buildings. But when a hand has once
+worked the stipulated number of days, he is for ever after exempt, even
+if he remain in the service twenty or thirty years, and should come down
+to the fort every summer.
+
+They received us very courteously at Fort William, and I perceived by
+the reception given to myself in particular, that thanks to the Chinook
+dialect of which I was sufficiently master, they would not have asked
+better than to give me employment, on advantageous terms. But I felt a
+great deal more eagerness to arrive in Montreal, than desire to return
+to the River Columbia.
+
+A few days after we reached Fort William, Mr. Keith made his appearance
+there from Fort George, or Astoria, with the news of the arrival of the
+"Isaac Todd" in the Columbia river. This vessel, which was a dull
+sailer, had been kept back a long time by contrary winds in doubling
+Cape Horn, and had never been able to rejoin the vessels-of-war, her
+consorts, from which she was then separated. When she reached the
+_rendezvous_ at the island of Juan Fernandez, finding that the three
+ships-of-war had sailed, the captain and passengers, as they were short
+of provisions, determined to range the coast. Entering the harbor of
+_Monterey_,[AI] on the coast of California, in order to obtain
+provisions, they learned that there was an English vessel-of-war in
+distress, in the bay of _San Francisco_.[AJ] They repaired thither
+accordingly, and found, to their great surprise, that it was the sloop
+_Raccoon_. This vessel, in getting out of the River Columbia, had
+touched on the bar, with such violence, that a part of her false keel
+was carried away; and she had with difficulty made San Francisco, with
+seven feet of water in the hold, although her crew had been constantly
+at the pumps. Captain Black, finding it impossible to repair his ship,
+had decided to abandon her, and to cross the continent to the Gulf of
+Mexico, thence to reach some of the British West India islands. However,
+on the arrival of the Isaac Todd, means were found to careen the vessel
+and repair the damage. The Isaac Todd then pursued her voyage and
+entered the Columbia on the 17th of April, thirteen months after her
+departure from England.
+
+[Footnote AI: A Spanish mission or presidency, in about the 36th degree
+of latitude.]
+
+[Footnote AJ: Another Spanish presidency, in about the 38th degree of
+latitude, and the first European establishment to be met with south of
+the Columbia. [These now obsolete notes are interesting as indicative of
+the period when they were written.--ED.]]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+     Departure from Fort William.--Navigation on Lake
+     Superior.--Michipicoton Bay.--Meeting a Canoe.--Batchawainon
+     Bay.--Arrival at Saut Ste Marie.--Occurrences
+     there.--Departure.--Lake Huron.--French River.--Lake
+     Nipissing.--Ottawa River.--Kettle Falls.--Rideau
+     River.--Long-Saut.--Arrival in Montreal--Conclusion.
+
+
+On the 20th of July, in the evening, Mr. D. Stuart notified me that he
+should start the next morning for Montreal, in a light canoe. I
+immediately wrote to my relatives: but the next morning Mr. Stuart told
+me that I was to be myself the bearer of my letters, by embarking with
+him. I got ready my effects, and toward evening we quitted Fort William,
+with fourteen stout _voyageurs_ to man our large canoe, and were soon
+floating on the bosom of the largest body of fresh water on the surface
+of the globe. We counted six passengers, namely, Messrs. D. Stuart, D.
+M'Kenzie, J. M'Donald, J. Clarke, myself, and a little girl of eight or
+nine years, who came from Kildonan, on Red river. We passed the first
+night on one of the islands in _Thunder bay_, so named on account of the
+frequent storms, accompanied with lightning and thunder, which burst
+over it at certain seasons of the year. On the 22d and 23d, we continued
+to range the southern coast of Lake Superior. The navigation of this
+superb lake would be extremely agreeable but for the thick fogs which
+reign during a part of the day, and do not permit a rapid progress. On
+the 24th, we dined at a small trading establishment called _Le Pic_,
+where we had excellent fish.
+
+On the 26th, we crossed _Michipicoton bay_, which, at its entrance, may
+be nine miles wide, and twenty fathoms deep. As we were nearing the
+eastern point, we met a small canoe, having on board Captain M'Cargo,
+and the crew of one of the schooners owned by the company. Mr. M'Cargo
+informed us that he had just escaped from _Saut Ste. Marie_, whither the
+Americans had sent a detachment of one hundred and fifty men; and that
+having been obliged to abandon his schooner, he had set fire to her. In
+consequence of this news it was resolved that the canoe on which we were
+proceeding, should return to Fort William. I embarked, with Mr. Stuart
+and two men, in Captain M'Cargo's canoe, while he and his crew took our
+places. In the haste and confusion of this exchange, which was made on
+the lake, they gave us a ham, a little tea and sugar, and a bag
+containing about twenty-five pounds of flour, but forgot entirely a
+kettle, knives, forks, and so on, all articles which Mr. M'Cargo had not
+time to take when he left _Saut Ste. Marie_. We subsisted miserably in
+consequence for two days and a half that we continued to coast the lake
+before reaching any post. We moistened in the bag a little flour, and
+having kneaded it, made cakes, which we baked on flat stones by our camp
+fire.
+
+On the 29th, we reached Batchawainon, where we found some women, who
+prepared us food and received us well. It is a poor little post,
+situated at the bottom of a sandy cove, which offers nothing agreeable
+to the eye. Mr. Frederic Goedike, who resided here, was gone to see what
+had taken place at Saut Ste. Marie. He returned the next day, and told
+us that the Americans had come, with a force of one hundred and fifty
+men, under the command of Major Holmes; and that after having pillaged
+that they all considered worth taking, of the property of the N.W.
+Company and that of a Mr. Johnston, they had set fire to the houses,
+warehouses, &c., belonging to the company and to that gentleman, and
+retired, without molesting any other person.[AK] Our canoe arrived from
+Fort William in the evening, with that of Mr. M'Gillivray; and on the
+morrow we all repaired to Saut Ste. Marie, where we saw the ruins which
+the enemy had left. The houses, stores, and saw-mills of the company
+were still smoking.
+
+[Footnote AK: The N.W. Company having raised a regiment composed of
+their own servants, and known as the _voyageur corps_, and having also
+instigated to war, and armed, the Indian tribes, over which they had
+influence, had brought on themselves this act of retaliation. Mr.
+Johnston also had engaged actively in the war against the United
+States.]
+
+The schooner was at the foot of the rapids; the Americans had run her
+down, but she grounded on a ledge of rocks, whence they could not
+dislodge her, and so they had burnt her to the water's edge.
+
+_Le Saut de Ste. Marie_, or as it is shortly called, _Saut Ste. Marie_,
+is a rapid at the outlet of Lake Superior, and may be five hundred or
+six hundred yards wide; its length may be estimated at three quarters of
+a mile, and the descent of the water at about twenty feet. At the lower
+extremity the river widens to about a mile, and here there are a certain
+number of houses. The north bank belongs to Great Britain; the southern
+to the United States. It was on the American side that Mr. Johnston
+lived. Before the war he was collector of the port for the American
+government. On the same side resided a Mr. Nolin, with his family,
+consisting of three half-breed boys and as many girls, one of whom was
+passably pretty. He was an old Indian trader, and his house and
+furniture showed signs of his former prosperity. On the British side we
+found Mr. Charles Ermatinger, who had a pretty establishment: he dwelt
+temporarily in a house that belonged to Nolin, but he was building
+another of stone, very elegant, and had just finished a grist mill. He
+thought that the last would lead the inhabitants to sow more grain than
+they did. These inhabitants are principally old Canadian boatmen,
+married to half-breed or Indian women. The fish afford them subsistence
+during the greater part of the year, and provided they secure potatoes
+enough to carry them through the remainder, they are content. It is to
+be regretted that these people are not more industrious, for the land is
+very fertile.
+
+On the 1st of August, an express was sent to _Michilimackinac_
+(Mackinaw) to inform the commandant thereof what had happened at _Saut
+Ste. Marie_. While expecting the return of the messenger, we put
+ourselves in a state of defence, in case that by chance the Americans
+should make another irruption. The thing was not improbable, for
+according to some expressions which fell from one of their number who
+spoke French, their objects was to capture the furs of the Northwest
+Company, which were expected to arrive shortly from the interior. We
+invited some Indians, who were camped on _Pine Point_, at some distance
+from the _Saut_, to help us in case of need; which they promised to do.
+Meanwhile we had no provisions, as everything had been carried off by
+the American forces, and were obliged to subsist on such brook trout as
+we could take with hook and line, and on wild raspberries.
+
+On the 4th, the express returned, without having been able to accomplish
+his mission: he had found the island of Mackinaw so completely blockaded
+by the enemy, that it was impossible to reach it, without running the
+greatest risk of being made prisoner.
+
+On the 12th, we heard distinctly the discharges of artillery which our
+people were firing off at Michilimackinac, although the distance was
+nearly sixty miles. We thought it was an attempt of the enemy to retake
+that post, but we afterward learned that it was only a royal salute in
+honor of the birthday of the prince regent. We learned, however, during
+our stay at Saut Ste. Marie, that the Americans had really made a
+descent upon the island, but were compelled to retire with a
+considerable loss.
+
+On the 19th, some of the partners arrived from Fort William, preceding
+the flotilla which was coming down richly laden with furs. They sent on
+Mr. Decoigne in a light canoe, with letters to Montreal, to order
+provisions to meet this brigade.
+
+On the 21st, the canoe on which I was a passenger, was sent to the mouth
+of _French_ river, to observe the motions of the enemy. The route lay
+between a range of low islands, and a shelvy beach, very monotonous and
+dreary. We remained at the entrance of the aforesaid river till the
+25th, when the fleet of loaded canoes, forty-seven in number, arrived
+there. The value of the furs which they carried could not be estimated
+at less than a million of dollars: an important prize for the Americans,
+if they could have laid their hands upon it. We were three hundred and
+thirty-five men, all well armed; a large camp was formed, with a
+breast-work of fur-packs, and we kept watch all night. The next morning
+we began to ascend French river, and were soon out of reach of the
+dreaded foe. French river flows from the N.E. and empties into Lake
+Huron, about one hundred and twenty miles from Saut Ste. Marie. We
+reached Lake Nipissing, of which it is the outlet, the same evening, and
+encamped. We crossed that lake on the 27th, made a number of portages,
+and encamped again, not far from _Mattawan_.
+
+On the 28th we entered, at an early hour, the river _Ottawa_, and
+encamped, in the evening, at the _Portage des deux Joachims_. This is a
+grand river, but obstructed by many falls and rapids on its way to join
+the St. Lawrence; which caused us to make many portages, and so we
+arrived on the 31st at _Kettle falls_.
+
+The rock which here arrests the course of the _Ottawa_, extends from
+shore to shore, and so completely cuts off the waters, that at the time
+we passed none was seen falling over, but sinking by subterranean
+channels, or fissures in the rock, it boiled up below, from seven or
+eight different openings, not unlike water in a huge caldron, whence the
+first explorers of the country gave it the name of _Chaudiere_ or
+Caldron falls. Mr. P. Wright resided in this place, where he had a fine
+establishment and a great number of men employed in cultivating the
+land, and getting out lumber.
+
+We left the _Chaudieres_ a little before sunset, and passed very soon
+the confluence of the _Rideau_ or _Curtain river_. This river, which
+casts itself into the Ottawa over a rock twenty-five by thirty feet
+high, is divided in the middle of the fall by a little island, which
+parts the waters into two white sheets, resembling a double curtain open
+in the middle and spreading out below. The _coup d'oeil_ is really
+picturesque; the rays of the setting sun, which struck the waters
+obliquely as we passed, heightened exceedingly their beauty, and
+rendered it worthy of a pencil more skilful than mine.
+
+We voyaged till midnight, when we stopped to let our men take a little
+repose. This rest was only for two hours. At sunrise on the 1st
+September, we reached _Long-Saut_, where, having procured guides, we
+passed that dangerous rapid, and set foot on shore near the
+dwelling-house of a Mr. M'Donell, who sent us milk and fruits for our
+breakfast. Toward noon we passed the lake of the Two Mountains, where I
+began to see the mountain of my native isle. About two o'clock, we
+passed the rapids of St. Ann.[AL] Soon after we came opposite _Saut St.
+Louis_ and the village of _Caughnawago_, passed that last rapid of so
+many, and landed at Montreal, a little before sunset.
+
+[Footnote AL: "Far-famed and so well described," adds Mr. Franchere, in
+his own translation, but I prefer to leave the expression in its
+original striking simplicity, as he wrote it before he had heard of
+MOORE. Every reader remembers:--
+
+     "Soon as the woods on shore grow dim,
+     We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn."
+
+     _Canadian Boatman's Song_.]
+
+I hastened to the paternal roof, where the family were not less
+surprised than overjoyed at beholding me. Not having heard of me, since
+I had sailed from New York, they had believed, in accordance with the
+common report, that I had been murdered by the savages, with Mr. M'Kay
+and the crew of the Tonquin: and certainly, it was by the goodness of
+Providence that I found myself thus safe and sound, in the midst of my
+relations and friends, at the end of a voyage accompanied by so many
+perils, and in which so many of my companions had met with an untimely
+death.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+     Present State of the Countries visited by the Author.--Correction
+     of Mr. Irving's Statements respecting St. Louis.
+
+
+The last chapter closes the original French narrative of my travels
+around and across the continent, as published thirty-three years ago.
+The translation follows that narrative as exactly as possible, varying
+from it only in the correction of a few not very important errors of
+fact. It speaks of places and persons as I spoke of them then. I would
+not willingly lose the verisimilitude of this natural and unadorned
+description, in order to indulge in any new turns of style or more
+philosophical reflections.
+
+But since that period many changes have occurred in the scenes which I
+so long ago visited and described. Though they are well known, I may be
+pardoned for alluding to them.
+
+The natives of the Sandwich islands, who were in a state of paganism at
+that time, have since adopted a form of Christianity, have made
+considerable progress in imitating the civilization of Europe, and even,
+at this moment, begin to entertain the idea of annexation to the United
+States. It appears, however, that the real natives are rapidly dwindling
+away by the effects of their vices, which an exotic and ill-assimilated
+civilization has rather increased than diminished, and to which religion
+has not succeeded in applying a remedy.
+
+At the mouth of the Columbia, whole tribes, and among them, the
+_Clatsops_, have been swept away by disease. Here again, licentious
+habits universally diffused, spread a fatal disorder through the whole
+nation, and undermining the constitutions of all, left them an easy prey
+to the first contagion or epidemic sickness. But missionaries of various
+Christian sects have labored among the Indians of the Columbia also; not
+to speak of the missions of the Catholic Church, so well known by the
+narrative of Father De Smet and others; and numbers have been taught to
+cultivate the soil, and thus to provide against the famines to which
+they were formerly exposed from their dependence on the precarious
+resources of the chase; while others have received, in the faith of
+Christ, the true principle of national permanence, and a living germ of
+civilization, which may afterward be developed.
+
+Emigration has also carried to the Oregon the axe of the settler, as
+well as the canoe and pack of the fur-trader. The fertile valleys and
+prairies of the Willamet--once the resort of the deer, the elk, and the
+antelope, are now tilled by the industrious husbandman. Oregon City, so
+near old "Astoria," whose first log fort I saw and described, is now an
+Archiepiscopal see, and the capital of a territory, which must soon be a
+state of the Union.
+
+Of the regions east of the mountains described in my itinerary, little
+can be said in respect to improvement: they remain in the same wild
+state. The interest of the Hudson's Bay Company, as an association of
+fur-traders, is opposed to agricultural improvements, whose operation
+would be to drive off and extinguish the wild animals that furnish their
+commerce with its object. But on Lake Superior steamboats have
+supplanted the birch-bark canoe of the Indian and the fur-trader, and at
+Saut Ste. Marie, especially on the American side, there is now every
+sign of prosperity. How remote and wild was the region beyond, through
+which I passed, may be estimated by the fact that in thirty-eight years
+the onward-rolling wave of our population has but just reached its
+confines.
+
+Canada, although it has not kept pace with the United States, has yet
+wonderfully advanced in forty years. The valley of the Ottawa, that
+great artery of the St. Lawrence, where I thought it worth while to
+notice the residence of an enterprising farmer and lumber merchant, is
+now a populous district, well cultivated, and sprinkled with villages,
+towns, and cities.
+
+The reader, in perusing my first chapter, found a description of the
+city of New York in 1810, and of the neighboring village of Brooklyn.
+It would be superfluous to establish a comparison at this day. At that
+time, it will be observed, the mere breaking out of war between America
+and England was thought to involve the sacrifice of an American
+commercial establishment on the Pacific, on the ground of its supplies
+being necessarily cut off (it was supposed), and of the United States
+government being unable to protect it from hostile attack. At present it
+suffices to remark that while New York, then so inconsiderable a port,
+is now perhaps the third city in the world, the United States also, are,
+undoubtedly, a first-rate power, unassailable at home, and formidable
+abroad, to the greatest nations.
+
+As in my preface I alluded to Mr. Irving's "Astoria," as reflecting, in
+my opinion, unjustly, upon the young men engaged in the first expedition
+to the mouth of the Columbia, it may suffice here to observe, without
+entering into particulars, that my narrative, which I think answers for
+its own fidelity, clearly shows that some of them, at least did not want
+courage, activity, zeal for the interests of the company, while it
+existed, and patient endurance of hardship. And although it forms no
+part of the narrative or my voyage, yet as subsequent visits to the West
+and an intimate knowledge of St. Louis, enable me to correct Mr.
+Irving's poetical rather than accurate description of that place, I may
+well do it here. St. Louis now bids fair to rival ere long the "Queen of
+the West;" Mr. Irving describes her as a small trading place, where
+trappers, half-breeds, gay, frivolous Canadian boatmen, &c., &c.,
+congregated and revelled, with that lightness and buoyancy of spirit
+inherited from their French forefathers; the indolent Creole of St.
+Louis caring for little more than the enjoyment of the present hour; a
+motley population, half-civilized, half-barbarous, thrown, on his
+canvas, into one general, confused (I allow highly _picturesque_) mass,
+without respect of persons: but it is fair to say, with due homage to
+the talent of the sketcher, who has verged slightly on caricature in the
+use of that humor-loving pencil admired by all the world, that St. Louis
+even then contained its noble, industrious, and I may say, princely
+merchants; it could boast its _Chouteaus_, _Soulands_, _Cere_,
+_Cheniers_, _Vallees_, and _La Croix_, with other kindred spirits, whose
+descendants prove the worth of their sires by their own, and are now
+among the leading business men, as their fathers were the pioneers, of
+the flourishing St. Louis.
+
+With these remarks, which I make simply as an act of justice in
+connection with the general subject of the founding of "Astoria," but in
+which I mean to convey no imputation on the intentional fairness of the
+accomplished author to whom I have alluded, I take a respectful leave of
+my readers.
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.[AM]
+
+
+In Chapter XVII. I promised the reader to give him an account of the
+fate of some of the persons who left Astoria before, and after its sale
+or transfer to the British. I will now redeem that pledge.
+
+[Footnote AM: We have thought it best to give this Appendix, excepting
+some abbreviations rendered necessary to avoid repetition of what has
+been stated before, in Mr. Franchere's own words, particularly as a
+specimen of his own English style may be justly interesting to the
+reader.]
+
+Messrs. Ramsay Crooks, R. M'Lelland, and Robert Stuart, after enduring
+all sorts of fatigue, dangers and hair-breadth escapes with their
+lives--all which have been so graphically described by Washington Irving
+in his "Astoria," finally reached St. Louis and New York.
+
+Mr. Clapp went to the Marquesas Islands, where he entered into the
+service of his country in the capacity of Midshipman under Commodore
+Porter--made his escape from there in company with Lieutenant Gamble of
+the Marine corps, by directions of the Commodore, was captured by the
+British, landed at Buenos Ayres, and finally reached New York.
+
+D. M'Dougall, as a reward for betraying the trust reposed in him by Mr.
+Astor, was made a Partner of the Northwest Company, crossed the
+mountains, and died a miserable death at _Bas de la Riviere_, Winipeg.
+Donald M'Kenzie, his coadjutor, went back to the Columbia River, where
+he amassed a considerable fortune, with which he retired, and lived in
+Chautauque County in this state, where he died a few years since unknown
+and neglected:--he was a very selfish man, who cared for no one but
+himself.
+
+It remains only to speak of Messrs. J.C. Halsey, Russell, Farnham, and
+Alfred Seton, who, it will be remembered, embarked with Mr. Hunt on the
+"Pedlar," in Feb. 1814.
+
+Leaving the River about the 1st of April, they proceeded to the Russian
+establishment at Sitka, Norfolk Sound, where they fell in with two or
+three more American vessels, which had come to trade with the natives or
+to avoid the British cruisers. While there, a sail under British colors
+appeared, and Mr. Hunt sent Mr. Seton to ascertain who she was. She
+turned out to be the "Forester," Captain Pigott, a repeating signal ship
+and letter-of-marque, sent from England in company of a fleet intended
+for the South Seas. On further acquaintance with the captain, Mr. Seton
+(from whom I derive these particulars) learned a fact which has never
+before been published, and which will show the solicitude and
+perseverance of Mr. ASTOR. After despatching the "Lark" from New York,
+fearing that she might be intercepted by the British, he sent orders to
+his correspondent in England to purchase and fit out a British bottom,
+and despatch her to the Columbia to relieve the establishment.
+
+When Mr. Hunt learned this fact, he determined to leave Mr. Halsey at
+Sitka, and proceeding himself northward, landed Mr. Farnham on the coast
+of _Kamskatka_, to go over land with despatches for Mr. Astor. Mr.
+Farnham accomplished the journey, reached Hamburg, whence he sailed for
+the West Indies, and finally arrived at New York, having made the entire
+circuit of the globe.
+
+The "Pedlar" then sailed to the southeast, and soon reached the coast of
+California, which she approached to get a supply of provisions. Nearing
+one of the harbors, they descried a vessel at anchor inside, showing
+American colors. Hauling their wind, they soon came close to the
+stranger, which, to their surprise, turned out to be the Spanish
+corvette "Santa Barbara," which sent boats alongside the "Pedlar," and
+captured her, and kept possession of the prize for some two months,
+during which they dropped down to _San Blas_. Here Mr. Hunt proposed to
+Mr. Seton to cross the continent and reach the United States the best
+way he could. Mr. Seton, accordingly, went to the Isthmus of Darien,
+where he was detained several months by sickness, but finally reached
+Carthagena, where a British fleet was lying in the roads, to take off
+the English merchants, who in consequence of the revolutionary
+movements going on, sought shelter under their own flag. Here Mr. Seton,
+reduced to the last stage of destitution and squalor, boldly applied to
+Captain Bentham, the commander of the squadron, who, finding him to be a
+gentleman, offered him every needful assistance, gave him a berth in his
+own cabin, and finally landed him safely on the Island of Jamaica,
+whence he, too, found his way to New York.
+
+Of all those engaged in the expedition there are now but four
+survivors--Ramsay Crooks, Esq. the late President of the American Fur
+Company; Alfred Seton, Esq., Vice-president of the Sun Mutual Insurance
+Company; both of New York city; Benjamin Pillet of Canada; and the
+author, living also in New York. All the rest have paid the debt of
+nature, but their names are recorded in the foregoing pages.
+
+Notwithstanding the illiberal remarks made by Captain Thorn on the
+persons who were on board the ill-fated Tonquin, and reproduced by Mr.
+Irving in his "Astoria"--these young men who were represented as "Bar
+keepers or Billiard markers, most of whom had fled from Justice, &c."--I
+feel it a duty to say that they were for the most part, of good
+parentage, liberal education and every way were qualified to discharge
+the duties of their respective stations. The remarks on the general
+character of the voyageurs employed as boat-men and Mechanics, and the
+attempt to cast ridicule on their "Braggart and swaggering manners" come
+with a bad grace from the author of "Astoria," when we consider that in
+that very work Mr. Irving is compelled to admit their indomitable
+energy, their fidelity to their employers, and their cheerfulness under
+the most trying circumstances in which men can be placed.
+
+With respect to Captain Thorn, I must confess that though a stern
+commander and an irritable man, he paid the strictest attention to the
+health of his crew. His complaints of the squalid appearance of the
+Canadians and mechanics who were on board, can be abated of their force
+by giving a description of the accommodation of these people. The
+Tonquin was a small ship; its forecastle was destined for the crew
+performing duty before the mast. The room allotted for the accommodation
+of the twenty men destined for the establishment, was abaft the
+forecastle; a bulk-head had been let across, and a door led from the
+forecastle into a dark, unventilated, unwholesome place, where they were
+all heaped together, without means of locomotion, and consequently
+deprived of that exercise of the body so necessary to health. Add to
+that, we had no physician on board. In view of these facts, can the
+complaints of the gallant Captain be sustained? Of course Mr. Irving was
+ignorant of these circumstances, as well as of many others which he
+might have known, had some one suggested to him to ask a few questions
+of persons who were within his reach at the time of his publication. I
+have (I need scarcely say) no personal animosity against the unfortunate
+Captain; he always treated me, individually, as well as I could expect;
+and if, in the course of my narrative, I have been severe on his
+actions, I was impelled by a sense of justice to my friends on board,
+as well as by the circumstance that such explanations of his general
+deportment were requisite to convey the historical truth to my readers.
+
+The idea of a conspiracy against him on board is so absurd that it
+really does not deserve notice. The threat, or rather the proposal made
+to him by Mr. M'Kay, in the following words--"if you say fight, fight it
+is"--originated in a case where one of the sailors had maltreated a
+Canadian lad, who came to complain to Mr. M'Kay. The captain would not
+interpose his authority, and said in my presence, "Let them fight out
+their own battles:"--it was upon that answer that Mr. M'Kay gave vent to
+the expression quoted above. I might go on with a long list of
+inaccuracies, more or less grave or trivial, in the beautifully written
+work of Mr. Irving, but it would be tedious to go through the whole of
+them. The few remarks to which I have given place above, will suffice to
+prove that the assertion made in the preface was not unwarranted. It is
+far from my intention to enter the lists with a man of the literary
+merit and reputation of Mr. Irving, but as a narrator of events of which
+I was an EYEWITNESS, I felt bound to tell the truth, although that truth
+might impugn the historical accuracy of a work which ranks as a classic
+in the language. At the same time I entirely exonerate Mr. Irving from
+any intention of prejudicing the minds of his readers, as he doubtless
+had only in view to support the character of his friend: that sentiment
+is worthy of a generous heart, but it should not be gratified, nor would
+he wish to gratify it, I am sure, at the expense of the character of
+others.
+
+
+
+
+NOTE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+     Perhaps even contrary to the wish of Mr. Franchere, I have left the
+     above almost word for word as he wrote it. It is a part of the
+     history of the affairs related as well in Mr. Irving's ASTORIA as
+     in the present volume, that the reclamations of one of the clerks
+     on that famous and unfortunate voyage of the Tonquin, against the
+     disparaging description of himself and his colleagues given in the
+     former work, should be fairly recorded. At the same time, I can not
+     help stating my own impression that a natural susceptibility,
+     roused by those slighting remarks from Captain Thorn's
+     correspondence, to which Mr. Irving as an historian gives currency,
+     has somewhat blinded my excellent friend to the tone of banter, so
+     characteristic of the chronicler of the Knickerbockers, in which
+     all these particulars are given, more as traits of the character
+     of the stern old sea-captain, with his hearty contempt for
+     land-lubbers and literary clerks, than as a dependable account of
+     the persons on board his ship, some of whom might have been, and as
+     we see by the present work, were, in fact, very meritorious
+     characters, for whose literary turn, and faithful journalizing
+     (which seems to have especially provoked the captain's wrath), now
+     at the end of more than forty years, we have so much reason to be
+     thankful. Certainly Mr. Irving himself, who has drawn frequently on
+     Mr. Franchere's narrative, could not, from his well-known taste in
+     such matters, be insensible to the Defoe-like simplicity thereof,
+     nor to the picturesque descriptions, worthy of a professional pen,
+     with which it is sprinkled.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to the Northwest
+Coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814 or the First American Settlement on the Pacific, by Gabriel Franchere
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